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L E B E N S K L E I D U N G · VIII. Autumn / Winter · Wolkige Wolle
WOHER BEZIEHT IHR DIE ROHSTOFFE UND, DA IHR JA BEIDE JETZT IN BERLIN SEID, GAB ES EINEN BESTIMMTEN GRUND, DAS PROJEKT HIERHER ZU VERLEGEN, VOR ALLEM IN BEZUG AUF LIEFERKETTEN? MARTIN Yolanda hatte zuerst die gute Idee, Wolle in unseren Textilien zu verwenden. Derzeit ist europäische Wolle unglaublich unterbewertet, sie wird oft begraben oder verbrannt, anstatt verwendet zu werden! Dies liegt daran, dass der Marktpreis so niedrig ist und europäische Wolle ein Nebenprodukt der Fleischindustrie ist. Dieses Jahr war besonders schlimm, weil einige Bauern in Großbritannien aufgrund der Corona-Krise berichtet haben, bis zu 600 Vliese auf den Komposthaufen geworfen zu haben! Wir sehen das als schreckliche Verschwendung für solch einen wunderbaren natürlichen Rohstoff. Wir beziehen unseren Rohstoff über das British Wool Board. Dieses Jahr freuen wir uns jedoch, mit LEBENSKLEIDUNG an einer vollständig deutschen »Cloudwool« zu arbeiten. Deutsche Wollbauern stehen vor ähnlichen Problemen, die Wolle ist Nebenprodukt der Fleischindustrie und oft unglaublich schwer zu verkaufen. Die Herstellung von »Cloudwool« erfolgt derzeit in Deutschland und unser Studio befindet sich in Berlin, um uns bei der Vernetzung mit verschiedenen Vliesherstellern in Europa zu helfen und mit ihnen
HESSIAN CLOUDWOOL ELBWOLLE ™ 100 cm · 380 g/m 2 · 47% Jute · 53% elbwolle™
spannende neue Forschungs- und Entwicklungs-Projekte voranzutreiben.
Ecru (HC-EW-1)
» CLOUDS ARE LIGHT AND FLUFFY LIKE OUR MATERIAL AND A CLOUD SHARES A MOTIF WITH OUR LOVELY SHEEP WHICH BRINGS IT ALL TOGE THER! «
F
IRSTLY, WHY THE LOVELY NAME »CLOUWDWOOL«?
on a project. We came up with the name Doppelhaus before we even had a concept for a business. This is because Yolanda moved to Berlin to Study
MARTIN Yolanda and I decided upon the name »Cloudwool« after really
Textiles at Kunsthochschule Weißensee and Martin went on to the London
trying to think about a name that reflected the light quality and innovative
College of fashion. Starting this business was a way for us to stay in touch.
composition of the material. We debated quite a few funny names like Tangle-
What made us continue with the business is our commitment to transforming
Tex, but Yolanda’s mother thought of »Cloudwool« and it really stuck. Clouds
the textile and fashion industry by introducing new sustainable nonwoven
are light and fluffy like our material and a cloud shares a motif with our
materials which utilise available, local raw materials like European wool.
lovely sheep which brings it all together! WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THE RAW MATERIAL AND AS BOTH YOLANDA WHAT'S THE TECHNIQUE AND HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM
AND YOU ARE IN BERLIN NOW, WAS THERE ANY SPECIFIC REASON TO
OTHER FABRICS?
MOVE THE PROJECT HERE IN TERMS OF SUPPLY CHAINS?
MARTIN The technique for making »Cloudwool« is very different from woven
MARTIN Yolanda first had the bright idea of using wool in our textiles.
fashion materials. The innovative process involves using nonwoven machines
Currently European wool is incredibly undervalued, it Is often buried or
which usually produce such glamorous products as wet wipes and sanitary
burned instead of being used! This is because the market price is so low
products. Though these machines usually create disposable products
and European wool is a by-product of the meat industry. This year has been
Doppelhaus developed techniques to introduce more natural fibres like
especially bad, because of the Corona Crisis some farmers in Britain have
German wool through these processors. The wool is collected and we use
reported throwing up to 600 fleeces on the compost heap! We see that as
sophisticated nonwoven machines to bind the fibres together. It then goes
a terrible waste for such a wonderful natural recourse. We source our raw
through various other stages where the wool fibres are physically inter-
material through the British Wool Board. This year however we’re excited
locked. Our production is also very different because it saves a third of the
to work with LEBENSKLEIDUNG on a fully German »Cloudwool«. German
energy compared to other materials, uses no chemicals and 95% of all the
wool farmers face similar problems, the wool is breed for meat and is often
water is recycled.
incredibly difficult to sell. The manufacturing of Cloudwool currently takes place in Germany and our studio is based in Berlin in order to help us lease
WHEN DID YOU START WORKING ON THAT PROJECT AND WHAT
with various nonwoven manufacturers in Europe and generate exciting new
MADE YOU WANT TO FOCUS ON IT?
R&D projects with them.
MARTIN Yolanda Leask and Martin Brambley started developing »Cloudwool« around four years ago. Both Yolanda and Martin developed the ideas during their final years at University. We wanted to work on a project together. We have known each other since we were 10 and always wanted to work together
WOLKEN UND SCHAFE
CLOUDS AND SHEEPS
Diese Assoziation weckt auch
This is also associated with the
das fluffige Cloudwool-Logo.
fluffy logo of cloudwool.