WITH COMPLIMENTS OF SAFARILINK | JUNE–AUGUST 2025
TRAVELLING TELESCOPE

WITH COMPLIMENTS OF SAFARILINK | JUNE–AUGUST 2025
TRAVELLING TELESCOPE
STAR BEDS ARE A BESPOKE TOUCH FOR GUESTS AT KENYAN SAFARI LODGES
EXPLORING THE NIGHT SKY OF KENYA’S WILDS MIGRATION IN THE MARA FOLLOW THE HERDS TO DRAMATIC RIVER CROSSINGS THE MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS NAIROBI’S MIND-BENDING NEW ATTRACTION
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It gives me great pleasure to welcome you onboard your Safarilink flight today.
In its more than two decades in the aviation industry, Safarilink has always strived to deliver exceptional air travel services. The goal from the start was to exceed ordinary standards and provide passengers with a remarkable journey to some of the most remote and rewarding destinations in Kenya. That the airline now flies more than 20,000 passengers every month during high season is testament to the trust bestowed upon the airline by those seeking a journey beyond the ordinary.
Beyond the skies‚ Safarilink is actively involved in initiatives that support the communities and the environment across its network of destinations. Projects include a woodland creation scheme in collaboration with the Mount Kenya Trust that has so far seen more than 60‚000 tree seedlings planted.
Our airline flies more than 20,000 passengers a month during high season
Safarilink’s positive impact extends into communities through environmental initiatives‚ health projects‚ and philanthropy. We work with organisations such as Naboisho Primary‚ Pack for a Purpose‚ Medical and Educational Aid to Kenya‚ Land and Life Foundation Annual Medical Camps‚ Hands Off Our Elephants‚ and Colobus Conservation.
Inside this issue of The Link you can read about Safarilink’s 15-year partnership with the Lewa Conservancy. It’s a collective effort that helps preserve the sometimes rare animals that find refuge in this northern Kenya sanctuary while also empowering the livelihoods of people in adjacent communities. We hope to see you at the Lewa Safari Marathon on June 28 this year.
More strides towards sustainability are being taken by our adoption of the latest aviation technology. Safarilink is leading the way with plans in place to have our fleet of Cessna Caravans fitted with electric engines.
By minimising our environmental impact and helping preserve the natural treasures of East Africa, we are aligned with our passengers in valuing responsible travel. Let’s fly with care together.
ALEX AVEDI | CEO
A landmark codeshare agreement between Safarilink Aviation and Kenya Airways will enable seamless travel from across the world to the country’s celebrated safari destinations.
The contract was signed on April 25 at the stunning Serena Mara Lodge in the heart of the Masai Mara and marks a major milestone in the enhancement of Kenya’s tourism infrastructure.
The collaboration connects Kenya Airways’ extensive international network with Safarilink’s twicedaily flights to nine key Mara airstrips, as well as to Amboseli, Nanyuki, and Samburu.
Passengers flying with Kenya’s national carrier can now book their entire journey – from global gateways such as New York and London to Kenya’s top wildlife destinations – on a single ticket. This eliminates the need for multiple bookings and reduces transit time, ensuring travellers experience smoother journeys and more time in the wild.
“This partnership exemplifies smart innovation,” says Kenya Airways CEO Allan Kilavuka. “We’re connecting Kenya’s global reach to its natural treasures, while supporting local communities and conservation through enhanced access.”
From Nairobi’s Wilson Airport, Safarilink’s fleet of Cessna Caravans and Dash-8 aircraft are perfectly equipped to reach remote safari lodges with speed and reliability. “We’re delighted to partner with Kenya Airways to deliver a truly seamless safari experience,” says Alex Avedi, CEO of Safarilink Aviation.
This codeshare agreement comes at a time when leisure tourism accounts for Close to half of all arrivals in Kenya, demonstrating strong global demand for accessible, high-quality safari experiences. By bridging international and domestic air travel, the partnership not only positions Kenya as a premier destination but also boosts its competitive edge in the global tourism market.
“Today’s travellers value efficiency and reliability,” noted Julius Thairu, Chief Commercial and Customer Officer at Kenya Airways. “With this partnership, we’re answering that call –bringing Kenya’s magic closer to the world.”
Safarilink has launched new flights that connect the Kenyan coastal resorts of Lamu and Malindi. From June 16, we will also be adding high season only flights between Amboseli, Tsavo West and the Masai Mara, three of Kenya’s most iconic safari destinations. Our flights between Nairobi Wilson Airport and Kisumu in western Kenya now operate at least three times every day. Skip the long drive and fly to Kisumu in comfort.
Increased Frequency to Kisumu
Now flying three times daily
New Service From Malindi to Lamu. And from Amboseli to the Mara. Effective June 16.
For more information, visit www.flysafarilink.com
The eclectic career of multi-million selling singer, chef, farmer and entrepreneur Kelis Rogers has taken another twist of late. For much of this and last year the American has been living in Africa and championing the “energy, culture and beauty” of countries such as Kenya, Tanzania and Rwanda to her global audience of followers. Mark Edwards reports.
Fans of Kelis Rogers have learnt to expect the unexpected. Most first knew her simply as Kelis, the New York-born singer of global hits such as ‘Milkshake’ and ‘Caught Out There’, but her career has taken some tangents since - from Le Cordon Bleu-certified chef and cookery book author to organic farmer and head of her own natural beauty brand.
The New-Yorker’s latest professional pivot is happening in Africa. What began as a family holiday last year for the mother-of-two has grown into a still ongoing adventure on the continent that has so far taken in Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia and South Africa. Along the way Kelis has become an unofficial ambassador for these countries, sharing her love for their “energy, culture and beauty” with her 2.6 million followers on Instagram.
“Spending some extended time on the continent has always been something I wanted to do,” Kelis says. “The timing
was right, and I was able to do it this time around.” The long-awaited trip has given Kelis a deeper understanding of her family history and cultural background. Her father Kenneth was an African-American jazz musician while her mother Eveliss is a Chinese-Puerto Rican fashion designer. Kelis – the name was chosen as a blend of her parents’ first names – used food to connect with her Puerto Rican heritage in her 2015 cookbook ‘My Life on a Plate’. Now she was able to explore her African roots. “I am a Black American and have roots here on the continent from both sides of my family,” she says.
Through her online presence, Kelis hopes to inspire others from the African diaspora to embark on their own journey-of-self-discovery. Importantly, she wants to show her followers the Africa that she has experienced and how it is very different from the common global perception that tends to view the continent through a lens of poverty, conflict, and underdevelopment. One of her Instagram posts reads: “We have all been shown one image of the largest, most diverse continent in the world. And while, yes, there are social economic differences like anywhere else I think it’s only right to show a different reality that I’ve seen for myself. The continent is bustling with energy, culture and beauty. This is Africa.”
The trip has been filled with memorable moments. Kelis says: “My recent trip to Cape Town was amazing. Rwanda felt like a utopia. It was so lush and beautiful. Walking with lions in Zambia was great. The beaches and sandbars in Zanzibar are so beautiful. Eating nyama choma in Nairobi was awesome.”
KELIS HAS BECOME AN UNOFFICIAL AMBASSADOR FOR THESE COUNTRIES, SHARING HER LOVE FOR THEIR “ENERGY, CULTURE AND BEAUTY” WITH HER 2.6 MILLION FOLLOWERS ON INSTAGRAM.
Kelis has found that Africa excites all the passions – music, food, nature and beauty – that fuel her complex creativity. For example, Kelis the organic farmer – in 2020 she escaped the urban hustle of her longtime home Los Angeles to live on a farm in the California countryside – has loved spending time among Naivasha’s smallholder farmers and has also visited the lush coffee fields of Kilimanjaro.
As a qualified ethnobotany herbalist – a field of study that examines the connection between people and plants –Kelis was full of admiration for the farmers’ “dedication and connection to the land” that she witnessed on the trip. She adds: “Plants are the source of sustenance for so many people. They are the basis of economic structures for people and are incredibly important to so many cultural traditions.”
During her time in Naivasha there was talk in the local press that Kelis had purchased her own farm in the area. She won’t confirm the rumour to me but does say: “I’m definitely exploring farming opportunities here and Lake Naivasha is beautiful!”
When Kelis has tried her hand at farming in Kenya she says the results have been delicious. “The quality of the fruit especially here has blown my mind. Apple mango [the most popular and widely grown mango variety in Kenya] was one of the most surprising and I love that I can find soursop everywhere easily. My passion fruit grow like weeds here. Generally everything grows better here.”
Organic produce is integral to Kelis’ cooking. “It adds more freshness, more flavour, and of course more nutrients,” she says. “As a chef, farmer, and mother, all of those things are really important to me.”
From 2006 to 2008, Kelis studied at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu culinary school, graduating as saucier. While the chorus of Kelis’ biggest hit single claimed her “milkshake brings all the boys to the yard”, in 2013 it was her condiments that grabbed the attention as she launched her signature line of sauces, oils and salts. The brand, Bounty & Full, has now expanded to include all-natural beauty treatments and even moisturising beard oil for men.
Kelis has had the opportunity to show her cooking skills while in Africa. She constructed her own nyama choma barbecue while in Kenya using untreated wood for chemical-free kindling. She has explored the local food scene: “Chinatown in Nairobi was good. Eating all the food has been great.”
Other foodie adventures on the continent have included sampling the café culture of Cape Town, which Kelis calls “one of the prettiest cities ever”.
Kelis has also been inspired by the music she has been listening to while in Africa. She singles out a trio of “cool” Kenyan artists – rapper and singer Nyashinski, Sauti Sol member Bien-Aimé Baraza and r’n’b singer-songwriter Otile Brown – whose music she has been enjoying on the trip.
This is encouraging news for Kelis fans who have had to wait a long time for new music. Her last album of new material was ‘Food’ in 2014, with just the 2021 single ‘Midnight Snacks’ released since. Could Africa’s vibrant music scene be the trigger that gets Kelis back into the recording studio? “It absolutely has inspired me, and I’d definitely love to collaborate with some African artists on my next project,” she says. Expect the unexpected.
To follow Kelis’s African adventure, follow her on Instagram @kelis. To check out the Bounty & Full range, go to www.bountyandfull.com
FLY WITH US: THREE FLIGHTS DAILY
The bond between Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and Safarilink is an example of how collaboration can improve conservation and community development in Kenya. The Link reveals how this partnership exemplifies a shared commitment to preserving the natural heritage and supporting sustainable development.
Covering 62,000 acres, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a wildlife sanctuary in northern Kenya renowned for its efforts to protect endangered species such as black rhinos and Grévy’s zebras. The Unesco World Heritage Site – home to some of the world’s critically endangered and endangered species – acts as a model and catalyst for the conservation of wildlife and its habitat. The conservancy boasts one of the highest wildlife densities in Kenya, including 11 per cent of the country’s black rhinos, 14 per cent of its white rhinos, and the world’s single largest population of Grévy’s zebras. Additionally, Lewa is home to herds of elephant, buffalo and giraffe as well as lion and cheetah and over 494 species of birds.
At Lewa, conservation and community development go hand in hand, ensuring that the neighbouring areas also benefit from wildlife conservation efforts. Today, Lewa supports 27 schools with over 9,100 children through infrastructural development, digital literacy, provi-
sion of bursaries, student mentorship programs, and curriculum development. The conservancy has implemented 18 water projects to improve living standards for over 60,000 people. Lewa’s four clinics are the closest medical centres to thousands in adjacent communities. Additionally, the conservancy runs a women's micro-credit program that boasts 36 groups with more than 2,160 participants.
Safarilink has been pivotal in connecting tourists and conservationists to remote destinations across Kenya. With a fleet designed to access the country’s most pristine and secluded areas, Safarilink not only facilitates tourism but also supports conservation initiatives by making these regions more ac-
cessible. Since 2012, Safarilink has consistently donated US$ 5 from the price of every ticket to Lewa – with contributions increasing gradually each year. This support underscores the airline’s deep-rooted commitment to conservation and community development.
One of the most remarkable expressions of this partnership is the annual Lewa Safari Marathon. The unique fundraising event is organised by Tusk Trust – a non-profit organisation set up to advance wildlife conservation across Africa – and attracts participants from all over the world. Held in the conservancy’s sprawling savannahs, the marathon offers runners a unique opportunity to race alongside wildlife in their natural habitat. Declared one of the toughest races on earth, this mara-
thon is a challenging but rewarding adventure that raises funds for conservation and community projects.
Safarilink plays an integral role in the success of the marathon, which is marking its 25th anniversary this year. Every year, the airline ensures seamless travel for participants, supporters, and staff to the remote Lewa region. In addition, Safarilink sponsors a team of staff members to take part in the marathon, highlighting their active involvement and personal investment in conservation efforts.
The Lewa Safari Marathon has raised US$ 9 million over the years. The funds support critical conservation and community projects such as anti-poaching efforts, education programs, healthcare services, and sustainable agriculture initiatives within the local
communities. Safarilink’s involvement ensures that these funds reach their intended destinations, bolstering the conservancy’s multifaceted approach to sustainability.
Moreover, the marathon and the partnership with Safarilink generate significant awareness about the challenges and successes of conservation in Kenya. This visibility helps attract more tourists and donors, further amplifying the positive impact on Lewa’s initiatives.
The flourishing partnership between Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and Safarilink is a testament to what can be achieved when organisations unite with a common purpose. Looking ahead, both entities are committed to deepening their collaboration, exploring new avenues to enhance conservation efforts, and expanding their reach to benefit more communities and wildlife.
Lewa boasts some of the most spectacular landscapes in northern Kenya with Mount Kenya serving as the perfect backdrop. Guests enjoy an unforgettable combination of great scenery, superb game viewing, and excellent hospitality. Visitors can partake in an array of
exciting activities including day game drives, guided bush walks, bush breakfasts and picnic lunches, sundowners, horse-riding, and bird watching. Each of the lodges in the conservancy – Lewa Wilderness, Sirikoi, Kifaru, Lewa House, and Lewa Safari Camp – offers a unique experience.
The conservancy’s practice of responsible tourism ensures that funds raised are reinvested into core programs, demonstrating that people can co-exist with wildlife and benefit from that eco-existence. Conservation fees from tourism support 27 per cent of the Lewa annual budget.
As travellers settle into their Safarilink flights, they can take pride in knowing that their journey supports a cause greater than tourism. It’s a journey towards a sustainable future, where conservation and community development go hand in hand, thanks to the partnership between Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and Safarilink.
Kenyan astronomer Susan Murubana is sharing the secrets of the night sky to tourists and tens of thousands of schoolchildren in some of the country’s most remote areas with her powerful telescope and mobile planetarium. It is an experience she hopes will prove life changing, as Mark Edwards finds out.
Kenya is known as one of the world’s most exciting safari destinations with majestic Big Five wildlife to be found across its protected plains. However, local astronomer Susan Murubana likes to point out that the country boasts another, just as spectacular Big Five. All you have to do is look up.
“We have a Big Five in the night sky,” she says. “You need a crescent moon that does not give off too much light and you’ll see the rings of Saturn, which are so cool. Then there’s Jupiter and its moons – it’s incredible to think that Galileo was looking at the same planet 400 years ago – the Orion constellation where stars are born; Scorpio, one of the brightest constellations in the night sky, and the Milky Way stretching from horizon to horizon.”
In describing these celestial headliners, Murubana’s words spill in a rush of excitement down the line from her home in Nairobi.
Astronomy is obviously a passion and one that has changed her life. She believes studying the night sky can be similarly game-changing for others, especially Kenyan youngsters. It was with this idea in mind that Travelling Telescope was born. The social enterprise – which Murubana founded alongside her husband, filmmaker and fellow astronomy enthusiast Daniel Chu Owen, in 2014 – transports the team’s donated Unistellar deep sky telescope and inflatable planetarium to bring the far reaches of the night sky to schools and public spaces across Kenya, often in very remote areas. So far, Murubana tells me, the initiative has “reached close to 500,000 people”.
Much of the funding for Travelling Telescope comes from another of the team’s initiatives, Star Safaris, which operates in collaboration with local safari-friendly lodges to offer guests monthly stargazing trips – often with overnight camping – under a canopy of dark sky in Kenya’s rural wild. As well as the mobile experience, there is also a permanent base in Langata on the southern outskirts of Nairobi that features another planetarium – this time made out of low-cost and planet-friendly bamboo.
For Murubana, the sky comes alive beyond the reach of the capital’s light pollution. “The minute you drive out of the city there is bright unpolluted sky. Drive north to the Samburu National Reserve and the Masai Mara and astronomy is extension of the wild world. The trip is very therapeutic in its combination of the beauty and wildlife. The communities out here are connected to the natural world. We want others to share the joys and beauty of the night sky.”
Murubana still remembers the transformative effect of her first look down the lens of a telescope in 2008. By then she was an economics and sociology student heading for a job in marketing and her focus was very much on earthbound advancement. “Growing up in Nairobi, I don’t think I ever looked up at the sky,” she says. “However, in my early 20s I joined a group of students to watch the total eclipse from Zambia.” The trip was organised by Kevin Hunt of Cosmos Education, an international non-profit organisation dedicated to improving science education in developing countries. Murubana was inspired. “Kevin had a telescope and I got to see Saturn. It was very powerful. I wanted to be part of that journey.” She travelled with Cosmos Education, working at schools in South Africa, Eswatini, Botswana, Tanzania and Kenya.
Murubana completed her degree and found work as a marketing executive but she says: “I knew it wasn’t what I wanted to do.” Her ambitions were now sky high. “Cosmos Education had given me these opportunities and I felt fulfilled and humbled. I wanted to pay it forward. I thought: ‘Wow,
if only Kenyan kids could have a planetarium. At the time, it really was a far-fetched idea.”
She quit her job and began an online master’s course in astronomy. She didn’t come from a science background and friends and family “didn’t get it,” but still backed her. In 2013 she met Owen – the couple’s love was written in the stars when they first met at a Nairobi party held on the night of a solar eclipse – and Travelling Telescope was born. In the years that have followed, astronomy has emerged from the fringes of education in Kenya. You can now study it as a bachelor of science degree at the University of Nairobi, the country has its own space agency and its first astronomical observatory, located in Malindi, was opened in 2023.
Murubana hopes the progress made will encourage others to follow astronomy as a career, and believes Travelling Telescope may be the perspective shift needed to spark such big sky thinking. Just as the vast expanse of the universe convinces her “there is life out there” so she believes young Kenyans will see a world of infinite possibilities reveal themselves for the first time when they gaze upon the endless African night sky.
“Looking through a telescope can make you feel very tiny, there is so much up there. Everyone has access to the night sky – it builds inquisitiveness and is a gateway to possibilities. You see these other worlds and you begin to believe you can become an engineer, you can build rockets. It’s that powerful.”
To find out more about the work of Travelling Telescope and book your place on a Star Safari, visit www. travellingtelescope.co.uk
Imagine drifting off to asleep under the wide, open sky of the Kenyan bush. Star beds are an exclusive experience for travellers looking for an intimate connection with nature. Here’s our guide to the accommodation options for the ultimate safari sleep-out
This intimate tented camp in Kalama Conservancy is Kenya’s newest star bed safari property. Officially opened in January 2025, Basecamp Samburu was designed by Norwegian architect Bull Arkitekter to include two luxury open-air star beds alongside its five safari tents.
Located in Samburu, Kalama is renowned for its clear night skies so the camp’s star beds offer an unparalleled stargazing experience. Elevated for privacy and panoramic views, the deluxe star bed includes a jacuzzi for indulgent evenings under the vast African sky while the standard star bed features a private dining area. Both options have ensuite bathrooms.
Guests at Basecamp Samburu –the latest addition to the Saruni Basecamp portfolio of 13 innovative and ethical camps and lodges across Kenya – have more opportunities to immerse themselves in the untamed beauty of the region. Activities include an authentic cultural experience with Samburu warriors, on-foot rhino trekking, a night-timer scorpion safari and daily game drives within either the Kalama Conservancy or Samburu National Park.
For more information, visit www.sarunibasecamp.com/ourproperties/basecamp-samburu/
The Elewana Loisaba Tented Camp has been creating bedrooms in the bush for years and there are still few who do it better. Perched on the edge of an escarpment, the camp enjoys unbroken views across the 57,000acre Loisaba Conservancy, an outstandingly beautiful private reserve that has its own elephant migration ‘corridor’. The star beds allow guests to commune with the wildness. Handcrafted four-poster wooden beds sit on raised wooden platforms jutting out from the thatched-roof accommodation and are rolled out each night for guests to enjoy a memorable sleep under the endless African sky.
For more information, visit www.elewanacollection.com/ loisaba-tented-camp
Not strictly a star bed, but this five-star tented camp in Samburu does offer an optional night of fly camping under the stars in the Westgate Conservancy. The adventure begins with a late afternoon nature walk or game drive before arriving at the pre-pitched camp by nightfall. Here guest relax around a roaring campfire before sitting down to a starlit alfresco dinner. Then it is time to snuggle into the mosquito-netted tents and drift off to sleep to the soothing soundtrack of the bush at night. Your next day alarm will be a spectacular sunrise and the dawn chorus.
For more information, visit www.thesafaricollection.com
THE CAMP ENJOYS UNBROKEN VIEWS ACROSS THE 57,000-ACRE LOISABA CONSERVANCY, AN OUTSTANDINGLY BEAUTIFUL PRIVATE RESERVE THAT HAS ITS OWN ELEPHANT MIGRATION CORRIDOR.
Among the luxury accommodation of this cliff-top lodge in Laikipia is ‘The Treehouse’, a beautiful treetop open-air room where guests can sleep and dine under the stars. With views over the pristine plains of the wild and beautiful North Eastern Province, the rooftop hideaway is effortlessly romantic – it’s no surprise that Ol Malo has been named the world’s number one honeymoon destination. Whether you are a couple, family or a small group –the lodge can accommodate up to 10 guests – a stay here is all about experiences. Ol Malo partners with a top-notch adventure company that has a wildly disparate transport fleet – camels, horses,
mountain bikes, even a helicopter – to explore every corner of the surrounding 5,000 acres of game sanctuary. Leaving Ol Malo for these wild explorations will take some will power with its all-inclusive amenities including a saltwater infinity pool, farm-totable cuisine, signature cocktails and morning coffee or tea served to your room.
For more information, visit www.olmalo.com
The eight deluxe suites at this camp in the Chyulu Hills of southeast Kenya come with their own swimming pools and verandahs. Each also has a king-sized star bed with mosquito netting on top of its thatched roof. The rooftop vantage points offer spectacular views of Mount Kilimanjaro during the day and a canopy of iridescent stars at night. Guests at ol Donyo Lodge can start their evenings under the stars at the camp’s new fire deck, which is a popular place for sharing safari stories. The wildlife comes to you at this camp with an on-site reservoir attracting elephants, zebras, giraffes, impalas to drink. Guests can watch unnoticed from two nearby hides.
For more information, visit www.greatplains conservation.com/ol-donyo-lodge-kenya-safari/
A star bed, the dark skies of the Kenya wilderness and the naked eye should be all you need to spot these five prominent deep-sky objects visible from the Southern Hemisphere. Here’s what to look out for.
(also known as the Southern 7)
This loose group of around 70 stars is the fifth brightest cluster in the sky.
The largest and brightest globular cluster in the Milky Way. It contains around 10 million stars.
A cloud of gas and dust located near the bright star Eta Carinae.
This dark nebula – a cloud of dust that blocks out light – can be seen as a dark patch in the Milky Way.
The bright band of stars that spans across the sky, representing our galaxy.
Step into Saffron Garden for a transformational retreats. Located in the heart of Malindi – one of the most magical places on the Kenyan Coast – the boutique hotel's 15 carefully decorated bungalows are nestled in a 5-acre oasis. Saffron Garden beautifully blends nature, gastronomy, art, and tradition, creating a unique haven. This eclectic space has become the ultimate gathering
THE PRIZE DOES NOT INCLUDE FLIGHTS TO AND FROM THE DESTINATION
Competition terms and conditions: Prizes dependent on availability. One entry per person. Entrants must be 18 years or over. The decision of the organisers will be final. The competition is not open to employees and their relatives of Safarilink, Land & Marine Publications Ltd or Saffron Garden. The prize does not include flights to the destination. Images are for representation purposes only. Competition ends 14 July 2025. Winners will be announced in the next issue and contacted directly.
Congratulations to Velma Amimo who wins a luxurious spa retreat for 2 at the Lion in the Sun Resort’ - Well done and thanks for flying with Safarilink. For more information on Sun Resort visit www.billionaireresort.com
spot for travelers seeking peace of mind, enjoyment, and engaging activities in Malindi and beyond.
We are honoured then that Saffron Garden has generously offered an amazing competition prize for this issue of The Link. One lucky reader will win a two-night stay at Saffron Garden for themselves and a guest of their choice. They will also be treated to an outdoor movie night with dinner during their stay.
To be in with a chance of winning this amazing prize, email your answer to the question below along with a photograph of you holding this issue of The Link on your Safarilink flight to competition@landmarine.org
Question: Who would you take with you to Saffron Garden and why?
These rare and unusual animals are the stars of the show at the remote Samburu National Reserve in northern Kenya.
Safaris in northern Kenya hit a bit different. With most tourists concentrating on the world-famous southern circuit of the Masai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo, the Samburu National Reserve offers a more intimate experience away from the human herd.
Intrepid travellers who venture this far north are rewarded with a spectacular landscape of rugged hills and rocky outcrops. Rain is rare here so the Ewaso Nyiro River, which flows from Mount Kenya’s glaciers to cross the reserve, is a crucial source of water. Wildlife such as zebra, giraffe and elephants are drawn to the river’s banks along with big cat predators such as lion, leopard and cheetah. The reserve is also home to an abundance of unusual species that thrive in this arid environment. Known as the Samburu Special Five, you’ll only find them in such large numbers in this part of Kenya. Let’s take a closer look at each one of this peculiar bunch.
The gerenuk is a long-limbed species of antelope – indeed its name means ‘giraffe-necked’ in the Somali language – that makes itself taller still by standing erect on its back legs. In adopting this upright pose adults can reach well over two metres enabling them to feed on the highest, juiciest leaves. Gerenuks have adapted to Samburu’s arid conditions getting the moisture they need from the fo-
liage, shoots, herbs, flowers, and fruits they feed on. The reserve is known for its large population of gerenuk so they are easy to spot – especially the males with their distinctive lyre-shaped horns. However, they don’t like to stay in the spotlight long. With the threat of lions and other predators in the reserve they often resort to hiding or darting between trees and shrubs.
A mega-herbivore that even an upright gerenuk has to look up to. Actually, reticulated giraffes are slightly smaller than the Masai giraffe that roam central and southern Kenya and are such an icon of African safaris. The northern Kenya variety also distinguishes itself with its striking russet coat divided by a jigsaw pattern of white lines – the reticulations that give it its name. Samburu’s dry acacia woodlands and open savannahs provide a rich supply of foliage for these herbivores. Reticulated giraffes are becoming quite rare with numbers falling dramatically over the last few decades. Samburu is one of the few places you can still see them in all their glory.
The Beisa oryx is considered endangered. Samburu National Reserve is one of the few remaining places to see this striking antelope with its long, spear-like horns in the wild. These animals have unique mechanisms to survive in the parched conditions here. They can survive for extended periods without drinking water, extracting moisture from the plants they eat; can raise their body temperature to prevent perspiration and water loss, even in extreme heat; and have a unique network of capillaries in their nose that helps cool down the blood
travelling to the brain. Initiatives are in place in Samburu to protect Beisa oryx numbers including community-managed conservancies; anti-poaching projects and the rolling out of sustainable grazing programmes. Happily, they are still a common sight here, with herds typically ranging from five to 40 individuals.
It’s not surprising that as a haven to out-of-theordinary animals, Samburu National Reserve is where you’ll find the Somali ostrich rather than the common ostrich. This vulnerable variety of the world’s largest and heaviest bird is known for its blue-grey colouring of the neck and legs. This attractive plumage has unfortunately put the Somali ostrich at risk of human hunters as the feathers are used in ceremonial headdresses or to signify social status among some Kenyan tribes. Still, a population remains in Samburu feeding on the sparse vegetation of this environment.
The Grévy’s zebra – named when zoologists discovered that a large zebra gifted in 1882 to French president Jules Grévy by the king of Abyssinia (now Ethiopia) was of a distinct species – is now on the endangered ‘Red List’ with populations only found in northern Kenya and isolated parts of Ethiopia. Conservation efforts in Samburu focus on protecting their habitat and reducing threats such as poaching. The long-legged animal is the biggest of the three species of zebra and is also unusual in its independence. About a tenth of adult males live a solitary life. That self-sufficiency starts early. Newborn Grévy’s zebra foals are able to stand after just six minutes, and they can run after 40 minutes.
A girl, a bike and a dream: How Kenyan Alice Kivuva launched her proudly African brand of cycling wear
Cycling is a friend to freedom for African women. If you have a bicycle, you are self-reliant with access to independent travel, to a job, to education and to medical care. However, cycling is starting to become a lifestyle as well as a livelihood on the continent. Women are riding their bikes for the fun of it. Among them is Alice Kivuva, who is the founder of FiveStars Africa, the first woman-owned cycling apparel brand on the continent. She says cycling has given her the freedom to be herself.
In 2012 the Nairobi businesswoman put her career in marketing and communications on hold to start a family. She gave birth to twins and they became her world.
“Nothing in life ever prepares you for motherhood and the package that it comes wrapped up in,” she says. “If you are not careful it’s easy to drown and lose yourself completely as you prioritise your family’s needs over your own.
“Very soon I discovered that I needed a coping mechanism. I needed to find something to hold on to, something to centre me, something that was just for me that I could get lost in and rediscover myself. I needed a healthy outlet for me to keep going.”
“For me that was the bicycle. It was my escape, my balance. The independence, sense of freedom, personal accomplishments and achievements that come from cycling are unmatched. I do most of my vivid thinking when on the bike. It is therapeutic.”
Alice took up the sport in 2015 heading out on regular rides that went beyond the bustle
of Nairobi to take in the array of surrounding landscapes from high terrain through verdant forests to picturesque lakes. “When I’m looking for the safari experience, an afternoon cycling adventure at Hell’s Gate National Park is one of my favourite destinations,” she says. “It is the most beautiful, serene outdoor cycling experience.”
At the beginning, the local cycling community was small. Often alone, Alice at times felt self-conscious on her bike with the discomfort compounded by cycling apparel – often only to be found in second-hand stores – that neither looked nor fitted as she would like.
“While I liked the idea of being kitted out on my bike, I couldn’t find female-specific wear that offered the comfort, quality, and style I was looking for,” she says. “I love colour, but the designs available in the stores felt like an afterthought.”
The born entrepreneur saw a gap in the market. In 2017 she launched FiveStars Africa, a Kenyan cycling clothing brand that prioritises all-weather comfort with colourful designs that reflect the company’s African heritage. Sleek lycra skinsuits are streaked with the Kenyan flag tricolour while short-sleeved tops come in tie dye and leopard print patterns. The range includes warmer sleeves, gloves and wind breakers to combat the extremes of Nairobi weather. While the city gets plenty of sun, at 1,660 metres in elevation mornings and evenings here can get chilly.
Alice, who came up with many of the designs herself, says: “We are a sports brand that celebrates the diversity, creativity, and art of the African continent through sport. Our active wear captures the authenticity of our culture in bold beautiful prints inspired by nature and life.”
The bold colours of the FiveStar Africa apparel increased Alice’s visibility as a cyclist. She was happy to be seen. Not only was she proud of how she looked and felt on the bike – “What you wear when working out has a huge impact on your confidence levels and performance,” she says – but she now wanted to stir others to join her and be active in their community. “I want to be an inspiration for the next generation of girls to follow their dreams down whatever path it takes them,” she says.
Nairobi is slowly becoming a cycling city. While the city is notorious for its car-clogged streets and rush-hour traffic jams, Alice points out that among the city’s close-to five million inhabitants, “nearly 50 percent of all daily trips are made by walking and cycling.”
Recreational cycling is increasing. Alice says more cycling clubs are being launched to cater to all levels of riders. Each with a common goal to grow the sport in cycling in Kenya. FiveStars is behind an annual ride on January 1 that aims to get more Nairobians on their bikes to help them reach their new year fitness goals. “It’s a tradition we started back in 2018 and have been consistent with ever since,” says Alice. “The joys of achievement and the thrill of collaborative effort is amazing and inspirational, an awesome way to set the pace for the new year.”
Alice now describes herself as “an avid cyclist”. Her journey is testament to how the sport can improve your fitness. Her first 100km bike trip in 2017 took her over eight hours to complete. Now 100km is a typical weekend ride and it now takes her half the time. “Dedication, passion, consistency, and various improvements on performance and what I wear has
significantly improved my performance,” she says.
Her longest ride was achieved in 2021 during the Covid outbreak. “We went on a team ride and clocked 250.24km from Nairobi to the Tanzanian border,” she says.
FiveStars Africa has raised its profile at sporting events in Kenya. It has kitted out the Kenyan athletes at the Commonwealth Games and the UCI Paralympics Championships. It is also the current kit sponsor for the Kenya National Mountain Bike team and this year was among the sponsors of the All-Africa Games in Accra, Ghana.
From such powerful platforms, FiveStars Africa is motivating Kenyans to get on their bikes with some very famous names among those mounting up. “We have had the honour and privilege to provide apparel for the First Lady of Kenya Rachel Ruto when she took up cycling and I had the opportunity to cycle with her excellency. Kenyan politicians Esther Passaris and Ababu Namwamba were
also kitted out when they took up the sport. Alice adds: “We are in partnership discussions with several international athletes and influencers who love what we do and are interested in representing an African homegrown brand and we shall be sharing soon.”
Alice believes there is huge potential for growth of the brand locally and internationally. FiveStars Africa is working towards setting up a production base in Nairobi –currently only its streetwear range is made in Kenya – and looking to create more employment for Kenyans.
It has been quite a ride – all because of cycling. “The trajectory of my life changed when I took up cycling for fitness and health. It has morphed into this amazing journey of self-discovery, transformation, impact, growth and inspiration that I would have never realised were it not for the love of two wheels.”
To check the full range of FiveStars Africa apparel, go to fivestarsafrica.com/
How
to make the most of the
The Great Migration across the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem is a never-ending journey for fresh grazing and water. However, it is from July to October when the epic voyage reaches its peak in the Masai Mara National Reserve with mass river crossings and plenty of predator peril. With this high season fast approaching and Safarilink flying into the heart of the Mara, The Link reveals where to be and what to look out for with the help of guide Joseph Laizer.
What is the Great Wildebeest Migration?
Every year, over two million wildebeest and enormous herds of zebra and other herbivores make the 2,900-km round trip through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya. Why? This is a drive to survive. The herbivores are following the rains to seeks out food and water. This is one of the largest mammal migrations on earth and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa.
When does the migration reach the Masai Mara?
The wildebeest’s cloud-chasing brings the herds north to the Masai Mara usually between July and October. These months represent the long dry season in East Africa so the Mara river, which flows through the Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya and the Kogatende region in northern Tanzania, is a vital water source surrounded by greener grazing grounds for the wildebeest and
other animals. If conditions are dry, the first wildebeest will forge north towards the river and arrive as early as late June or early July.
A ‘confusion’ of wildebeest
A group of wildebeest is known as a ‘confusion’. The moniker appears an apt one to anyone that witnesses the Great Migration. There is a common misconception that the herbivores move as one
FLY WITH US: FOUR FLIGHTS DAILY TO THE MASAI MARA
massive herd in a relentless pilgrimage, but the truth is that progress can be chaotic. The animals’ erratic behaviour is most evident when they reach the Mara River. Some wildebeest cross one way, some another, while some remain on the banks opting not to cross at all. There are even a few that cross the river north to south only to cross back a few hours later – a brave or perhaps foolhardy venture given the river’s floats of waiting crocodiles.
The Mara River crossings are the most treacherous stage of the year-round odyssey. Joseph Laizer, a Maasai with more than 16 years’ experience as a guide, says the migrating herds use their heightened senses to stay alive. “Wildebeest have good sense of smell, and the zebras have good eyesight. They cross in small groups, following their leader. Each group has a leader that will make the decisions. Sometimes, the group chooses its leader by
pushing one of them forward. They only start moving once the leader signals to, and then follow the leader.”
Joseph, who works with international tour and travel company Tanzania Specialist, adds that wildebeest also have a good memory. This means they remember the best crossing points to use. Local guides such as Joseph know these points well and will monitor them for signs of an impending crossing.
Crossings reveal the raw power of nature
The Mara River crossings are among the most dramatic spectacles in the natural world. The wildebeest and zebra struggle down the steep rocky banks of the Mara before diving into its fast-flowing waters. Many do not make it to the other side, succumbing to the fast currents, crocodile attacks, or are trampled in the chaos.
Those animals that make it to the opposite bank are often so exhausted that they are easy prey for the lions, leopards, cheetahs and hyenas that lie in wait.
The crossings capture nature at its wildest and cruellest.
The animals to be seen
The drier conditions between July and October means the wildebeest tend to pack together for an awesome panoramic viewing experience. Joining the colossal herd are smaller numbers of other herbivores like gazelles, elands, and impalas. Predators such as lions, hyenas, and crocodiles that follow the movable feast are also easier to spot among the reduced vegetation cover and will congregate around the limited water sources.
Most camps in the Masai Mara are located near the Mara River so are ideal for migration sightings. Governor’s Camp sits on its banks a half-hour drive from the migration’s main crossing points. For a sense of the scale of the migration, the Mara Engai Lodge offers panoramic views from its cliff-top location. Situated in the heart of the northern corridor of the Reserve, Entim Mara Camp is well-placed to witness the wildebeest migration from the Serengeti into the Mara. You’ll need to book early as camps and lodges always sell out during the high season.
Every January around 25,000 zebras arrive in the Makgadikgadi salt pan after migrate from the Okavango Delta driven by seasonal rainfall and in search of fresh grazing land.
Herds of migrating humpback whales and their calves arrive in these warm tropical waters of Zanzibar in late July. Humpback whales pass through these waters on their migration route between July and the end of October each year. They come from the cold, breeding grounds in the South Atlantic and Indian Oceans, with some even travelling from the Pacific Ocean
More than 3,000 elephants head to the Tarangire River from Manyara and other surrounding areas in herds of up to 600 during the dry season from July to October.
But the world’s greatest animal migration is in fact the annual movement of millions of antelope to and from South Sudan, into Ethiopia – a phenomenon involving species like white-eared kob, Mongalla gazelle, tiang, and bohor reedbuck, spanning vast distances. These seasonally migrate across the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape into Gambella National Park in Ethiopia.
With its diverse marine life and vibrant coral reefs, Watamu is one of Kenya’s prime diving locations. Steve Curtis, the owner of local dive company Aqua Ventures, reveals the underwater wonders of Watamu.
With a name meaning ‘home of the sweet people’ in Swahili, the small coastal town of Watamu is renowned for its warm welcome. Zimbabwean Steve Curtis has been based here for more than 30 years and can attest to the locals’ hospitality, but what drew him here was more salty than sweet.
Steve loves the ocean. He is a former military diver and PADI-approved master scuba diver trainer who has been diving professionally since 1982 with over 12,000 incident-free dives under his instruction.
In 1990, when Steve and his wife Helen were looking for the perfect location to set up their diving company, Aqua Ventures, Watamu’s protected sandy bays, and coral gardens made it a clear winner.
“Watamu’s greatest draw is the Watamu Marine National Park and Reserve,” says Steve. “It was created in 1968 and is recognised as one of the richest marine areas in the world, with over 1,000 fish species and more than 100 species of hard coral identified. It is part of the larger Malindi-Watamu Marine Reserve.
“Scuba diving in Watamu is much more varied and accessible than other sites in Kenya. There are drop offs and canyons, gulleys and swim throughs along with a shipwreck all on our doorstep.”
Aqua Ventures’ fleet of dive boats can reach a series of spectacular dive sites – including one nicknamed ‘fish soup’ because of its proliferation of species – within 10 to 15 minutes from shore. Steve says: “Our experienced dive guides will show you our special dive spots, where one might expect to see turtles, rays, and schooling pelagics such as barracudas, sharks, and, of course, a spectacular display of colourful reef fish.”
Diving conditions are ideal. Water temperatures rarely drop below 26ºC and visibility exceeds 20 metres. Aqua Ventures gives clients the opportunity to make the most of these comfortable conditions with 12-litre steel diving cylinders to provide compressed air for longer underwater.
The diving excursions cater for all levels of divers. The only exception is ‘Black Coral’ – a deep reef only navigable by advanced divers and above. Steve says: “This is a small patch reef 300 metres which slopes to a sandy bottom at 40 metres. Here you’ll find rare purple sea cumbers resembling Fabergé eggs, black whip coral and huge barrel sponges.”
Aqua Ventures, which has centres in Watamu resorts at the Ocean Sports and Turtle Bay resorts, is a PADI 5-star facility authorised to teach up to professional level, but it is also there to give beginners a simple refresher or a full certification course. For Steve, the satisfaction of giving a nervous scuba debutant their first experience of diving in a safe, secure environment is a highlight of his job. “Teaching someone who was worried and thought it was too much and too dangerous and then watching them smile when they get their qualification is a special moment,” he says.
Watamu supports a diverse ecosystem on land as well as sea. The Malindi-Watamu Marine Reserve extends into the Mida Creek, an area of sand flats and mangrove forest that is rich in fish and supports numerous migratory bird species. Inland, the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve is home to elephants, monkeys and rare birdlife while the marine park’s 5km of beaches are a key nesting ground for sea turtles.
Conservation, research, and community engagement projects have been established to preserve this natural environment. Aqua Ventures is part of this eco-friendly effort. Steve says: “We are passionate about the marine environment and we work closely with nature
conservation groups such as Local Ocean [a non-profit that protects and monitors turtle nesting]. We liaise closely with the other dive centres and the Kenya Wildlife Service when it comes to matters of marine conservation.”
Only 1 in 1,000 sea turtles will make it to adulthood, but it is still a common sight for divers in Watamu to see a full-grown hawksbill or green turtle swim powerfully past divers. Other large marine life that frequents Watamu’s waters include humpback whales that, Steve says, “are always seen close to shore and near our dive sites”. Whale sharks are also drawn to the shelter and abundant food of the Watamu reefs in February, March and November.
It was the world’s largest fish that gave Steve one of his most memorable Watamu diving experiences. “I was once pinned to the reef edge by a whale shark,” he says. “These gentle giants are often playful and sometimes enjoy the bubbles from divers tickling their tummies. This is exactly what happened, I believe. Thankfully, it did not last too long, and it eventually moved away. Funnily enough, I was not at all worried.”
For more information on Aqua Ventures and to book a dive trip or qualification course, visit www.divekenya.com
Courses include full equipment. Regular diving prices are reduced for divers who bring their own equipment. Package deals and group discounts are also available.
Kenya’s music scene is fast-evolving with fresh voices propelling the scene in new directions. Media and PR personality Anyiko Owoko selects five homegrown artists you need on your radar. “Keep an eye on them, and thank me later,” she says.
Bien
Bien-Aimé Baraza, popularly known as Bien, has already made his mark as a member of Sauti Sol, one of Africa’s most celebrated music groups. However, 2024 saw him further solidify his solo career with the successful release of his debut album ‘Alusa, Why Are You Topless?’. The album featured high profile collaborations with Ms Banks and DJ Edu from the UK, Congolese star Fally Ipupa, Nigerian A-listers Adekunle Gold and Ayra Starr, among others. Not only did it cement his place as Kenya’s most-streamed artist on Spotify in 2024, but it also marked a bold new direction for Bien as a solo artist. This shift came after Sauti Sol's decision for individual members to produce their own music and run solo projects under the ‘alone-together’ project. Bien's versatility as a vocalist, songwriter, guitarist and pianist allows him to seamlessly blend global sounds with his Kenyan roots. His songwriting stretches from sensual R&B to socially conscious ballads, showcasing his rich musicality and deep personal reflections.
Known for her unique vocal tone and the purity of her lyrics, Xenia Manasseh stands out in the alternative R&B scene. The Kenyan-Ugandan artist divides her time between Nairobi and LA and has built a global fanbase. She has shown she is ready for the next level after two linked but very different hit albums in 2024, ‘Love/Hate Pt. 1’ and ‘Love/Hate Pt. 2’ in 2024. Xenia has firmly established herself as one of Africa's most exciting new voices and songwriters in R&B. Her raw, vulnerable lyrics and soulful melodies delve into the complexities of love and self-reflection, making her music deeply relatable to a global audience. Xenia has grown into a confident artist and an in-demand artist and writer. She has collaborated with stars like Sauti Sol, Mr. Eazi, Ukweli and Idahams, and written songs for American R&B artist Teyana Taylor’s ‘The Album’. With her ability to captivate audiences with heartfelt, honest music, Xenia Manasseh is set to take the world by storm in 2025.
Nikita, who turned 23 in February 2025, is already considered one of Kenya’s brightest stars. Two successful EPs, ’A Side of Me’ (2021) and ‘The Other Side’ (2022), highlighted her vocal prowess, distinctive writing style and seamless blend of R&B, Afrobeats, and hip-hop. Her music covers issues around self-love, relationships, trauma and personal growth – themes that sometimes seem complex for an artist her age but those that resonate deeply with her audience. I guess we can call her an old soul. Nikita’s accolades include winning Best Female Artiste in Eastern Africa and Best Artiste in African R&B/Soul at the 2021 AFRIMA awards. Her profile continues to rise, with highlights including her first US Tour in 2024, a performance at BBC 1Xtra’s Afrobeats Concerto and being included in Spotify’s EQUAL Africa program. Expect to hear more from this young power vocalist as she continues to evolve both artistically and commercially.
Known for her unique vocal tone Labdi Ommes is half of the musical duo Unganisha, a collaboration in which she couples her traditional African sounds with experimental electronic music by Norwegian collaborator Bernt Isak Wærstad. Labdi is a pioneer and one of the few professional female orutu [a one-stringed vertical fiddle originated in the pre-colonial societies of Western Kenya] players in East Africa. She is redefining African music by blending traditional taarab, ohangla and benga with modern rhythms.
In 2023, Unganisha released their debut album ‘Mbili Mbili’. Labdi’s work as a cultural ambassador is helping reintroduce African musical heritage to the global stage. Her inclusion in OneBeat, an incubator for music-based social entrepreneurship, as well as her work on a collaborative project between Nature, Environment, and Wildlife Filmmakers (NEWF) and the National Geographic Society, demonstrates her commitment to reshaping Africa’s music narrative. With her international presence growing and a new EP ‘Pakruok’ released in December of 2024, she is poised to lead a cultural renaissance in 2025, elevating African traditional music worldwide. It’s no wonder Pakruok in her tribal language of Luo means self-praise.
Groovy Jo is becoming one of the most exciting rappers in Kenya’s hip-hop scene. Known for her bold, unapologetic lyrics and commanding stage presence, Groovy Jo has carved a space for herself as a fierce, empowering voice for women in music. Her mixtapes: ‘The Groovy Way’ (2021), its deluxe edition (2022), ‘Pressure’ (2023), and ‘A Groovy Affair’ (2024) showcase her unique blend of trap, drill, Afrobeats and hip-hop, all paired with her signature messages of empowerment and self-expression. She started rapping at just 11 years old and was already making waves in the Kenyan rap scene by 2018. Her collaborations with top producers like Lemario, Boutross and Asum Garvey have helped her refine her sound. As one of the few prominent female voices in the local rap scene, Groovy Jo has the potential to redefine the narrative around women in hip-hop, both in Kenya and across Africa. In her own words, she’s here to reshaping Africa’s music narrative with intelligent rap. With her international presence growing and a new EP ‘Pakruok’ released in December of 2024, she is poised to lead a cultural renaissance in 2025, elevating African traditional music worldwide. It’s no wonder Pakruok in her tribal language of Luo means self-praise.
Anyiko Owoko is a Kenyan media and PR personality who set up the Nairobi-based artists and culture PR agency Anyiko Public Relations. Between 2015 and 2019 she worked as Coke Studio Africa’s Entertainment and Music Publicist and was credited with raising the profile of Sauti Sol from an unknown quartet to Kenya's biggest music export and one of Africa's biggest music groups. She is also the creator of VIP ACCESS Culture & Culture podcast, dedicated to promoting African talent and creatives. The show has been broadcast in Kenya and Ghana and has featured interviews with more than 100 African music stars.
Safarilink’s daily flights to Zanzibar connect passengers to the island’s historic heart, Stone Town. Food is a big part of the Swahili culture here. Lodi Mohammed, founder of culinary tour Eat Like a Zanzibari, reveals the authentic flavours to be found beyond the tourist trail.
Q: On the Eat Like a Zanzibari website you are described as the ‘unofficial Mayor of Stone Town’. How did you come by that impressive nickname?
It starts with my true love for my hometown. I’ve travelled to many parts of the world, but there is nowhere I love to be more than Stone Town. Every corner holds a memory for me. I know the family history of nearly every home. The residents are my brothers and sisters (in some cases, quite literally). I have four generations of family living behind some of these historical walls. I love everything about it, and I love everyone in it. People around my neighbourhood have started to call me ‘the Mayor of Stone Town,’ and I’m honoured by the title!
Q: What inspired you to set up the Stone Town food tours? What is the experience you want to share with visitors?
I’m so proud that Stone Town is a place that draws thousands of visitors a year. However, what I’ve seen far too much is the homogenisation of the tourist experience. Many shops sell the exact same items, most of which are not even from Zanzibar, and many restaurants sell the same foods, often international cuisine that has very limited Zanzibari influence at all. Meanwhile, just outside those doors, locals are still enjoying the most authentic Zanzibari foods in the most authentic Zanzibari way, right there on the steps of Stone
Town. For guests to enjoy what’s unique about Stone Town, they need to step away from the restaurants and trinket shops.
Q: How do you think exploring a city’s food scene can reveal about its culture?
I think it can reveal how communal the culture is and how eating is considered a social and fun experience!
Q: How would you describe Swahili cuisine?
It’s flavourful and unique, deeply rooted in culture and rich in tradition. It’s a fusion of so many different types of cuisine from many parts of the world – Middle East, India, mainland Tanzania. Each influence contains a story from Zanzibar’s fascinating history.
Q: Why is your focus on the town’s street food rather than its restaurants?
In a small and tightly woven town like Stone Town, street food is the local scene. We have many lovely restaurants in Stone Town, but most of them are cater directly to tourists, meaning the cuisine has been “globalised” and tweaked to international tastes. For the authentic flavours loved by locals, street food is the way to go.
Q: You organise morning and evening tours. What food and drink do typical Zanzibaris start their day with?
The day must be started with tea, usually a deliciously spiced variety, and most quintessentially paired with a hot loaf of bread that is unique to Stone Town. Book a tour to learn what it is and how it’s made!
My favourite is probably uji, which is a local porridge usually made with coconut milk. There are so many varieties, enjoyed in different ways at different times.
Q: Have you learnt something new about the food scene here since you started the tours?
What I’ve learned is more a validation of the uniqueness and pleasure of the Zanzibari street food culture. The guests always love it.
Q: Are the tours kid-friendly? Is there a chance for young guest to try the ubuyu (candied baobab seeds) that is so popular in Zanzibar?
Ours are kid-friendly, but most fun for kids who are open to trying new foods. Ubuyu is a must-stop.
Q: Can vegans and vegetarians also enjoy the tour? What are the options for them?
Yes, they can. Zanzibari food does not typically use much dairy. Most stops on the tour are inherently vegan/vegetarian with meat as an additional option.
Q: Is food a communal experience in Zanzibar and is there a chance for tour visitors to interact with locals on the tour? Food is always a communal experience! ‘Street food’ here is literally that. Guests on the tour will enjoy each stop on the ‘barazas’ or ‘benches’ of Stone Town. They’ll join passers-by with whoever else from the neighbourhood has stopped by for a treat.
Q: What are some of your Swahili street food favourites?
The Eat Like A Zanzibari morning tours run every day from 9.30 am to 11.30am. The evening tours run from 6pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. All tours start from Maru Maru Hotel, Gizenga Street. To book, visit www. eatlikeazanzibari.com
The Museum of Illusions opened in January this year as the largest ‘edutainment’ venue of its kind in Africa. Harriet James was among the first visitors to explore its mind-bending exhibits.
Ilove exploring museums. They allow us to travel through time and explore different periods, cultures, and civilizations. In addition, museums have the power to make us feel connected to something greater than ourselves, whether it’s the shared human experience of art, the collective effort of scientific discovery, or the triumphs and tragedies of history.
The recently opened Museum of Illusions in Nairobi is not a traditional museum. It is part of a
global edutainment franchise and the third and largest to be built in Africa. The venue in Laxcon Court and Plaza, in the Parklands neighbourhood, joins a global network of over 50 locations, including iconic cities such as New York, Las Vegas, Paris, Istanbul, Madrid, Dubai, and South Africa. This new addition boasts more than 60 mind-bending exhibits that offer a captivating mix of optical illusions, immersive rooms, holograms, and stereograms for all ages.
One thing I loved immediately was
that I could take photos everywhere. I took advantage. I started snapping in the Infinity Room and was able to capture images of different versions of me. It felt like stepping into an entirely different dimension. I was surrounded by mirrors on every surface; on the ceiling, floors and walls and looking at it created an illusion that the space extends endlessly in all directions. I couldn’t tell where the room began or ended.
This is a museum are similar in that they both invite you to step outside
the conventional understanding and embrace a world that isn’t always the same.
The next section I explored was the coning table which was a mix of curiosity and mild disorientation. As I approached the table, it appeared as if the table was dangerously titled at a steep angle. The design and layout of the room felt like made my mind feel like it was being tricked and that at any time I would slide off as I sat down. To compensate for the sliding feel, I leaned on one side and finally had my mind balance. Though fun, it’s a dizzying experience.
Another room that was fascinating is the Ames Room. It looks like a normal rectangular room, but it is
ONE THING I LOVED IMMEDIATELY WAS THAT I COULD TAKE PHOTOS EVERYWHERE. I TOOK ADVANTAGE. I STARTED SNAPPING IN THE INFINITY ROOM AND WAS ABLE TO CAPTURE IMAGES OF DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF ME.
actually distorted in shape. You’ll notice this when you stand in different corners of the room and notice that your size is changing dramatically despite the fact that everyone is standing at the same distance from the camera.
When it felt like the tour was over, my guide took me to the next room dubbed the ‘Head on a Platter’. It is a quirky and eerie experience. As you step into the room, a large platter is seen ahead positioned in such a way that it seems like your head is placed right on it, as if you're part of some strange banquet. But behind the scenes, the trick is just in the perspective and the strategic placement of mirrors, which create a visual illusion that your head appears isolated and detached, sitting in the centre of the platter. I loved how many photos came out playing with the illusions.
Downstairs, I explored the ‘Matatu Room’, that reflected the colourful and intricate designs commonly seen on the public transport system in Kenya. The room uses optical illusions and distorted perspectives to reflect the flamboyant
nature of the iconic minibuses.
Next was the ‘Colour Room,’ an immersive and captivating space designed to challenge how we perceive colours. As I stepped into this room, I was surrounded by vibrant, shifting colours that seemed to change depending on my perspective. The walls, lighting, and objects in the room created an ambience that played with my brain’s perception of colour. It was amazing to discover how easily our senses can be tricked.
The experience was both visually stimulating and thought-provoking, offering a reminder that our perception of colour can be deeply influenced by the environment around us.
The last space to explore was the Vortex Tunnel. This cylindrical passageway is seriously disorientating. Although the walkway remains completely still, the surrounding environment gives the sensation of spinning, tricking your brain into thinking you're moving. Like the rest of the museum, it’s a fun yet bewildering experience.
Opening hours Monday to Wednesday, 10am to 8pm; Thursday to Sunday 10am to 9pm. Tickets are available through the official website: museumofillusionsnairobi.co.ke
From Kenya’s premier national parks through Africa’s highest mountain to the best beach resorts of the Indian Ocean coast, Safarilink’s network of 17 destinations showcases East Africa’s finest attractions.
The non-stop Kenyan capital is also Safarilink’s hub with our operations centred at the city’s Wilson Airport. Nairobi is the place to soak up Kenya’s contemporary culture with its vibrant food, music and art scenes. If you want to escape the bustle, head to the capital’s ‘green lungs’, Karura Forest, or make the most of Nairobi being the world’s only wildlife capital with a visit to Nairobi National Park.
WEST (Daily flights)
Tsavo West National Park offers some of the most magnificent game viewing in the world with its safari staples including elephant, rhino, hippos, lions, cheetah, leopards and buffalo.
NANYUKI (Three flights daily)
The gateway to the wilderness of Mount Kenya National Park where wildlife includes leopards, giant forest hogs and more than 100 bird species. The town is also the starting point to trails ascending Africa’s second-highest peak, Mount Kenya.
MOMBASA (Daily flights)
Kenya’s historic second city is a living museum that reflects its time as a trading hub linking Africa with China and India. It is also an excellent starting point for Kenya’s renowned beach resorts.
MALINDI (Daily flights)
The town of Malindi sits amid a string of tropical beaches
dotted with hotels and resorts. Much of the spectacular coastline is protected by the Malindi Marine National Park and there is more untouched natural splendour at the nearby Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve, which is home to elephants and more than 200 species of birds.
DOWNS (Three flights daily)
The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is famous for the variety of rare wildlife it protects. Set in a valley in the middle of the Laikipia Plateau, it is home to East Africa’s largest rhino population as well Grevy's zebra, Sitatunga antelope, cheetah, lion, elephant and reticulated giraffe.
LAMU (Daily flights)
Sun, sea and Swahili culture. Lamu is a true island escape. Wander the labyrinthine streets of its Unesco-recognised town – the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa – take in the spectacular sunset from a traditional dhow fishing boat or just explore the stretches of footprint-free beaches that ring the island.
(Daily flights)
Africa's highest peak, Mount Kilimanjaro, is on the bucket-list of every climber. There are a variety of guided routes to the snow-capped summit to suit all levels. Once you’ve completed your climb extend your stay with a safari in Kilimanjaro National Park, a tour of the coffee plantations in the foothills or hit the town of Moshi for an urban adventure.
(Daily flights)
Mount Kilimanjaro provides the stunning backdrop to the Amboseli National Park, framing your safari views of huge herds of elephant as well as leopard, lion, cheetah, giraffe and more than 600 bird species.
ZANZIBAR (Daily flights)
This vibrant Indian Ocean island offers visitors a taste of Swahili culture old and new. In the ancient port of Stone Town coral and limestone houses, palaces, and forts survive from its 19th century trading heyday while the island’s coastline is a blend of sleepy fishing villages and swanky beach resorts. Inland follow your nose for the heady perfume of the spice farms.
(Three flights daily)
The Samburu National Reserve is known for its abundance of rare northern specialist species such as the Grevy Zebra, Somali Ostrich, Reticulated Giraffe, Gerenuk and the Beisa Oryx – also referred to as the ‘Samburu Special’.
(Daily flights)
The calm, glassy waters of Lake Naivasha contain a huge
hippo population. Boat trips are available, some that take you to the privately owned game sanctuary of Crescent Island, which is walkable and will reveal giraffe and zebra. Far more wild animals are to be found in the neighbouring Hell’s Gate National Park with herds of buffalo and all manner of antelope roaming amid the dramatic Rift Valley landscape.
(Four flights daily)
The wild and rugged landscapes of the Masai Mara offer Kenya’s premier safari adventures. From July to October, it hosts the world-famous Great Migration of 1.5 million wildebeests with the Mara river crossings a dramatic highlight. The park also hosts all of the Big Five animals.
(Three flights daily)
The Loisaba Conservancy in Northern Kenya is a haven for over 260 bird and 50 mammal species, including endangered Grevy’s zebra. Big cat lovers will also find prides of lions, cheetahs and leopards. African wild dogs, thought for many years to be extinct in the region, are returning.
(Three flights daily)
Kenya’s third-largest city is situated on the northern shores of Lake Victoria. The lakeside vantage point offers some spectacular sundowner opportunities as well as boat rides and fishing trips. For animal adventures, head to the Kisumu Impala Sanctuary that shelters herds of impalas, zebras, cheetahs and baboons.
(Two flights daily)
The Kenyan coast is blessed with beautiful beaches galore, but Diani may be the fairest of them all. With 15 km of powdery white sand and waters calmed by an off-shore coral reef it provides ideal conditions for swimming, snorkelling, scuba diving, kite surfing, and water sports like windsurfing and kiteboarding.
(Daily flights)
The high altitude and clean air of this city nestled in the highlands of western Kenya has produced some of the world’s best distance athletes. It is a place that rewards the outdoor life with natural attractions such as the Rift Valley, Kakamega Forest, Kerio Valley and the Nandi Hills nearby.
Kisumu
Loisaba Nanyuki Naivasha
Migori
Masai Mara
Samburu
Lewa Downs
Amboseli
Kilimanjaro
Tsavo West
The 14-strong Safarilink fleet includes aircraft suited to the remote airstrips and short flight times that make up the majority of the destinations we serve. We also have four twin-engine Dash 8s to fly more passengers on longer routes
CESSNA CARAVAN C208BS
Number of aircraft: 11
Engine type: Turbo-prop single engine
Manufacturer: Textron Inc (formerly Cessna)
Crew: Two pilots
Maximum passengers: 12
▪ This workhorse of the fleet is a rugged fixed under-carriage aircraft that is ideal for landing on the ‘dirt’ airstrips common in game parks. Its high wings and large windows allow exceptional viewing of the unfolding scenery and animals while in flight. Our Cessna Caravan fleet now totals 10 after the arrival of two new aircraft in March 2024.
8-106 (5Y-SLD)
Number of aircraft: One Manufacturer:
DeHavilland Canada
Engine type: Twin engine Crew: Two pilots and one flight attendant
Maximum passengers: 37
▪ This Pratt & Whitney 120A powered aircraft is well known to commuter travellers around the world. Its pressurised cabin enables it to fly above the weather on the longer routes and its all-leather seats provide a touch of luxury.
8-315 (5Y-SLK)
Number of aircraft: One Manufacturer:
DeHavilland Canada
Engine type: Twin engine Crew: Two pilots and two flight attendants
Maximum passengers: 52
▪ This Pratt & Whitney PW123E powered aircraft has a pressurised cabin which enables it to fly above the weather on the longer routes. It features all-leather seats for each passenger.
8-311 (5Y-SLC)
Number of aircraft: One Manufacturer: DeHavilland Canada Engine type: Twin engine Crew: Two pilots and two flight attendants Maximum passengers: 50
▪ This Pratt & Whitney PW123B powered aircraft has a pressurised cabin which enables it to fly above the weather on the longer routes. It features all-leather seats for each passenger.
8-202 (5Y-SLO)
Number of aircraft: One Manufacturer: DeHavilland Canada Engine type: Twin engine Crew: Two pilots and one flight attendant Maximum passengers: 37
▪ This Pratt & Whitney PW123D powered aircraft has a pressurised cabin which enables it to fly above the weather on the longer routes. The interior is with all leather seats to provide a touch of luxury.
ADDRESS: PHOENIX HOUSE, WILSON AIRPORT, PO BOX 5616, NAIROBI 00506, KENYA
TEL: +254 20 6690000/ +254 730 888 000
EMAIL: RES@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
WEBSITE: WWW.FLYSAFARILINK.COM
CALL CENTRE: 020 669 0000
NAIROBI
PHOENIX HOUSE, WILSON AIRPORT
MOBILE: +254 730 888 000
@FLYSAFARILINK FACEBOOK: @FLYSAFARILINK
DIANI
TELEPHONE: +254 710 772 222/ 735 697 410
EMAIL: DIANIOFFICE@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
KISUMU
TELEPHONE: +254 793 500 500/ 757 500 500
EMAIL: KISUMUOFFICE@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
MALINDI
TELEPHONE: +254 769 700 700
EMAIL: MALINDIOFFICE@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
LAMU
TELEPHONE: +254 769 600 600
EMAIL: LAMUOFFICE@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
MOMBASA
TELEPHONE: +254 769 000 444/ 101 888 000
EMAIL: MBAAIRPORT@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
ZANZIBAR
TELEPHONE: +255 674 308 858
EMAIL: ZNZOFFICE@FLYSAFARILINK.COM
Book your flights at www.flysafarilink.com and pay by credit card or mobile money. Alternatively, email res@flysafarilink. com for other payment options such as credit card payment links‚ or bank transfer options.
Children of two years of age and above but not more than 12 years of age are charged at 75 per cent of the applicable adult fare‚ depending on the class booked. Infants under two years of age are not charged providing they are not occupying a seat. Infants are not entitled to a baggage allowance.
Save time at the airport and check-in online between 18 hours and two hours before your flight. You can also checkin and download your boarding pass on your phone. When you check-in online‚ you can choose your seat for free. Once you have checked in online you will be required to present yourself at the check-in counter to confirm your presence.
Check-in counters will close 60 minutes prior to departure time on international flights (to/from Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro) and 30 minutes prior to departure time on other services. After these cut-off times passengers will not be allowed to check-in.
Our Safari Lounge is an extension of our main dedicated lounge and is located at our head office on the first floor at Wilson Airport‚ Nairobi. Whether you’re travelling for business or pleasure‚ you can relax in our executive lounge for up to four hours before your flight. While here passengers can enjoy the services of a personalised barista with coffee roasted by hand. They can also take advantage of the shower facilities and
the drink and snack bar. The Safari Lounge opens daily from 0600hrs to 1600hrs and can be booked for passengers on both private charters or scheduled flights at a fee of US $40 per person. It must be booked at a minimum of six hours prior to departure time. Children under 12 years will not be permitted unless booked as part of a private charter group. To book‚ contact our reservations team at res@flysafarilink. com or call +254 730 888 000.
▪ Safarilink’s frequent flyer programme, ‘Safari Bonus’, allows passengers to earn reward points on every Safarilink scheduled flight. To sign up complete the online enrolment form on our website.
▪ Once you have signed up you will get a membership number, which you will need to quote at the time of booking or upon checking in.
▪ Points can be earned on both one way or return Safarilink scheduled flights. The number of points earned are subject to the class of travel and fare paid.
▪Points cannot be earned on complimentary tickets. Children upwards of two years old can register as members. Points earned can be transferred to a registered member.
▪ Once you have sufficient points‚ book your reward ticket to any of our 17 amazing destinations
▪ Requests for award tickets should be sent to safaribonus@ flysafarilink.com‚ quoting your membership number and name. For any queries or clarifications‚ please send an email to safaribonus@flysafarilink.com
Zanzibar‚ Kisumu‚ Diani‚ Lamu, Mombasa and Malindi: 20Kg max
All other destinations: 15kg max
▪ The baggage allowance is inclusive of hand luggage. Infants not paying for a seat are not entitled to baggage allowance. Excess baggage will only be carried‚ at the sole discretion of the captain of the aircraft‚ if the payload of the aircraft and/or space permits and will be charged at the prevailing rate for carriage of freight.
Is there anywhere I can store any excess baggage?
▪ Yes‚ there is a complimentary secure store at our Wilson Airport Office. Please ask at the Check-in counter.
Is the 15kg baggage allowance inclusive of hand luggage?
▪ Yes. If passengers have significant excess baggage they can book a ‘freight’ seat at an adult rate‚ which permits confirmed carriage of an extra 75 kgs.
What happens if my baggage is over the weight limit?
▪ In most circumstances our check-in staff will use their discretion and allow a leeway of up to two kgs. However additional excess baggage will only be carried‚ at the sole discretion of the captain of the aircraft‚ if the payload of the aircraft and/or space permits and will be charged at the prevailing rate for carriage of freight (currently KES350 per kg on domestic flights; US$5 per kg between Mombasa and Zanzibar; and US$10 per kg on flights between Nairobi and Zanzibar).
Why do you ask that my luggage is in a soft bag?
▪ Most of our flights are operated by aircraft whose luggage compartments have limited volume and are of an irregular shape. It is thus more difficult for us to stow large rigid suitcases‚ which in an extreme situation‚ might have to be carried on the next available flight.