Reasons to stick around in Moshi after your Kilimanjaro climb
Foreword
Dear valued passengers
At Flightlink, we begin by expressing our deepest gratitude to you, our loyal customers, for choosing to fly with us time and again.
Your trust inspires us to continually enhance your travel experience, whether through our signature Rosho chocolate clusters or our creamy Maua Ice cream, with our premium inflight service, or our expanding network across East Africa.
These months mark significant milestones in our journey together. Our Dar-Mwanza and Arusha-Mwanza routes have transformed connectivity between Tanzania's three major cities, creating seamless links for business and leisure travellers alike.
We take pride in our operational achievements. With stringent safety protocols and operational efficiencies, we've achieved:
87% on-time performance, which is among the best in regional aviation. We have also seen a 15% improvement in turnaround times to minimise delays. Our unwavering commitment to your wellbeing is evident in our 100% safety record.
A true game-changer is our Nairobi WilsonArusha route, connecting East Africa’s two premier safari capitals. By replacing a gruelling six-hour road transfer with a quick 45-minute flight, we are revolutionising circuit safaris between Kenya and Tanzania. Combined with our new daily Masai MaraZanzibar codeshare flights, we're creating unprecedented travel possibilities.
We commend the Tanzanian and Kenyan governments for fostering regional tourism and connectivity. As your airline of choice, we pledge to keep innovating, making every Flightlink journey safer, swifter and more enjoyable.
Thank you for being part of our story. The sky is just the beginning!
Warm regards,
Munawer Dhirani Managing Director and Accountable Manager
MAGICAL MWANZA Tanzania’s hidden gem 14
6 THE TIME FOR TARANGIRE
Why this national park is the place to be in the dry season
10 ZEBRA STRIPES
We named our magazine after them, but what is the reason for those distinctive markings?
14 MAGICAL MWANZA
Tanzania’s hidden gem
18 MAKING THE MOST OF MOSHI
Some reasons to stick around in this welcoming mountain town
3rd floor‚ Oyster Pearl Galleria‚ Chole Rd Masaki‚ PO Box 2858, Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania.
For the latest flights, information and to book online, visit: www.flightlink.co.tz
Reservations: centralreservations@flightlink.co.tz
E: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz
Marketing: Shabbir Ebrahim
T: +255 748 505 624
M: +255 769 981 899
E: s.ebrahim@flightlink.co.tz
22 A NIGHT GAME DRIVE
Animal behaviour after dark in Nairobi National Park
25 LAKE TANGANYIKA IN NUMBERS
Staggering statistics on Africa’s deepest lake
26 MISALI ISLAND
Pristine island off the coast of Pemba is a divers' paradise
AFRICA RALLY
Classic cars take on 5,000km charity race
WINGED WONDERS
The butterflies of Lake Manyara
Zebra Stripes is published by:
Land & Marine Publications (Tanzania) Ltd
5th floor, Josam House plot Number 16, Mikocheni Area
Along Coca-Cola Road, Dar es Salaam
T: +255 686 118 816
Head Office: Land & Marine Publications Ltd
6 The Square, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP5 3SL, UK
T: +44 (0)1206 752902
E: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com
36 THE MAGIC OF THE MARA Ten reasons to visit now
38 DAR ON TWO WHEELS Bike trip reveals city secrets
QUIZ WINNER
43 EARN YOUR STRIPES QUIZ 44 OUR DESTINATIONS The Flightlink network
ROUTE MAP
47 OUR FLEET / CONTACTS 48 RE ASONS TO FLY WITH US
Editor: Mark Edwards
E: markedwards@landmarine.com
Advertising sales: Godfrey S. Urassa
M: +255 (0) 686 118 816 (WhatsApp)
E: godfreyurassa@landmarine.com
Printed by Jamana Printers Ltd, Dar es Salaam
The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with
publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2025 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.
What’s new at Flightlink
The latest updates, including new routes, partnerships, and enhancements to the flying experience.
New routes
Flightlink is delighted to announce the launch of several new routes, designed to make travel across East Africa even more convenient. Passengers can now fly directly
between the Masai Mara and Zanzibar, linking the world-famous safari destination with the spice island’s white-sand beaches. We’ve also introduced connections from
New aircraft
Our fleet has grown with the arrival of the Dash 8 Q100/200, a modern, comfortable, and reliable aircraft that enhances our ability to serve you better. With greater capacity and excellent performance on regional routes, the Dash 8 is here to make your travel with Flightlink smoother, more comfortable, and more enjoyable.
Dar es Salaam to Mwanza and Arusha to Mwanza, making it easier than ever to reach the shores of Lake Victoria. For those travelling between Kenya and Tanzania, Flightlink now offers flights from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Zanzibar, as well as from Nairobi Wilson Airport to Arusha – perfect for combining city, safari, and beach experiences in one journey.
Giving back
At Flightlink we believe in contributing to the communities we serve. We recently supported another Eye Camp in partnership with Bilal Muslim Mission Tanzania, helping bring much-needed eye care to those in need. It’s part of our ongoing commitment to making a positive impact beyond the skies.
Why this is the time for TARANGIRE
Thousands of elephants can’t be wrong. Mark Edwards finds out why Tarangire National Park in the dry season is the place to be for wildlife lovers.
The Serengeti is not the only Tanzanian national park famous for its migration. In the dry season Tarangire National Park attracts massive animal congregations drawn by the perennial water sources provided by the Tarangire River and the Silale Swamp. Visitors include huge herds of elephant, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest that attract predators such as lions and leopards to the waterholes as well.
To experience this exceptional concentration of wildlife I’ve signed up for a day safari in the park in early June – the month that heralds the beginning of the country’s long dry season that runs until mid-October. I’ve travelled here with the Arushabased tour company All Day in Africa and we enter the park from the main north gate that receives the tourist-laden traffic that has taken the twohour drive from the ‘Safari City’.
Growing renown
The gate car park is full of Land Cruisers like ours when we arrive while hordes of local schoolchildren spill out of coaches – it’s nice to see that they get opportunities to experience the abundant wildlife on their doorstep. Tarangire might not have the international cachet of its neighbours in Tanzania’s northern safari circuit, the Serengeti and Ngorongoro, but its renown is growing. The crowds of tourists here are resplendent in pristine khaki safari wear. I, however, am dressed in a blue T-shirt and black jeans – a sartorial combination
that my giggling guides inform me is a ‘bite me’ invitation to the park’s population of tsetse flies (luckily, all vehicles are sprayed with insecticide before entering the park to keep the bothersome bugs away – and it works).
The sheer density of wildlife in Tarangire at this time of year means we experience some amazing sightings soon after we set off into the park.
A roaming herd of elephant – just a fraction of
A giraffe browses among the savannah
I was delighted by the bird life I saw in the north of the park. Sightings included Tanzanian endemic the yellow-collared lovebird, lilacbreasted roller, yellow barbet and a tawny eagle perched next to its stick nest in the branches of a baobab."
the thousands that migrate here during the dry season – use their trunks to tug leaves from acacia trees while further on buffalo and wildebeest gather in the grasslands.
The popularity of the park with high season visitors does mean that many of the most dramatic wildlife scenes draw a human crowd. At one moment we are just one of two game vehicles to watch a lone lioness drag her zebra kill into the long elephant grass, but with drivers updating each other with the latest sightings over the radio we are soon joined by more than 10 4x4s filled with passengers with telephoto lenses at the ready. The congestion is such that one of the arriving vehicles gives our Land Cruiser’s wing mirror an accidental whack as it squeezes past.
It's a system that ensures visitors don’t miss out on spectacular sightings, but it can detract from the intimacy of connecting with the raw, untamed forces of nature.
Land of baobabs
Sensing my desire to explore away from the crowds, the All Day in Africa team set off for remoter parts of the park. Tarangire has room to roam. At 2,850 sq km it is only Tanzania’s sixth largest national park, but it’s still bigger than Kenya’s Masai Mara. Exploring the wide-open plains of the north of the park, we see giant baobabs that have stood for centuries. Baobabs are one of the few tree species to thrive in Tarangire’s arid conditions and with their distended trunks and spare, twig-like branches they form striking silhouettes on the park’s skyline. The tree’s ability to store large quantities of water in its trunk means they are a lifeline for animals in the dry season here. We stop and marvel as a family of elephants use their tusks to strip the bark to get to the trunk’s fibrous, water-rich interior to quench their thirst.
The largest and oldest baobabs are hollow as their trunks are made of multiple fused stems that form a ring around the centre. This gives the ‘tree of life’ another vital use – as shelter. Hyraxes, bees, and squirrels set up home in baobabs while an especially massive specimen in Tarangire called
Mark Edwards
the ‘poacher’s baobab hide’ was used to store illegally hunted meat until 1995 when park rangers discovered the hideout. Now it is a popular photo stop for tourists.
The baobabs also act as a resting and nesting place for Tarangire’s plentiful bird population. More than 550 species have been recorded here, making the park one of Tanzania’s premier birding destinations. While the southern part of the park with its swamps and lush vegetation, particularly during the wet season, attracts numerous migratory and resident species, I was delighted by the bird life I saw in the north. Sightings included Tanzanian endemic the yellow-collared lovebird, lilac-breasted roller, yellow barbet and a tawny eagle perched next to its stick nest in the branches of a baobab.
Leopard spotting
Driving away from the crowds also provided some memorable animal sightings large and small. We stopped to gaze for a full five minutes at a young giraffe craning its neck to reach the most succulent leaves at the top of an acacia tree. We see slender mongooses scurry around one of Tarangire’s many termite mounds – vital to the ecosystem here as the termites’ activity enriches the soil with nutrients and increases its water retention. Not that they get a lot of thanks for their environmental efforts from the mongoose, who gobble down the insects in their hundreds. I also saw my first black
mamba – Tanzania’s most deadly snake – in the wild. We spot it on the road ahead and slow down to approach, but it snaps into life like a cracked whip and disappears into the vegetation.
My highlight is another first. I can now say I have seen a leopard in the wild. We spot a male draped bonelessly over the thick branch of a sausage tree. He is a vision of relaxation and one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen. Thank you, Tarangire.
There are more animal adventures to be had when we stop for lunch. The hilltop Matete picnic site looks down on a bend in the Tarangire River where the low water levels and muddy banks conspire to create a current of coffee-coloured swirls the envy of any latte artist barista.
The picnic tables are surrounded by acacia trees with branches that provide a vantage point for a troop of vervet monkeys to keep a keen eye on the packed lunches of tourists. Some try their luck. I am vaguely aware of a monkey sat a few metres back over my right shoulder. Suddenly there is a crash. I look down to see my plate of fruit is now missing a banana. The culprit has scrambled back
Mark Edwards
The Tarangire River is a lifeline for animals during the dry season
Tarangire treats
Home of the elephant
During the dry season, anywhere between 2,500 to over 3,000 elephants head to Tarangire. At this time of year, the park has one of the highest concentrations of elephants in Africa.
Bountiful bird life
Heaps of herbivores
Large herds of zebras, wildebeest, hartebeest, Thomson’s gazelle and impala migrate into the park in the dry season. Other antelopes to be seen include eland, dik-dik, and even the elusive lesser up the tree and is peeling the stolen fruit with a satisfied air. Fooled once, I remain vigilant to finish my lunch without further incident. Other picknickers are not so fortunate with one robbed of a pot of yoghurt. It has to be said the offending monkey deals with his haul very skilfully, peeling back the lid and gulping down the contents.
My time in Tarangire has been hugely enjoyable. Seeing the leopard meant I had ticked off four of the Big Five, which, in this rhino-less park, is a full house. When I come again, I will explore the southern region of the park to escape the crowds and see animals such as hippos, crocodiles and wild dogs.
If I get back here before the end of October, I will book a walking safari – the short vegetation in the dry season improves animal visibility and makes it safer for guides to lead guests – to get that personal wildlife experience. Balloon safaris, which have recently been introduced in the park, also appeal for the chance to get a new perspective on the park’s unique landscape and its wealth of wildlife. It’s clear I have only scratched the surface of Tarangire National Park with this trip. I look forward to digging deeper.
Tarangire National Park is a renowned birdwatching destination in Tanzania, with over 550 bird species, including resident and migrant birds. The park’s diverse habitats, from swamps to woodlands, make it a prime spot for birders to see rare species such as rufous tailed weavers.
Mark travelled with All Day in Africa. The homegrown company offers trips to Tarangire Park among its tailor-made experiences across Tanzania that include safaris, mountain climbing, and beach holidays.
For more details or to book, visit alldayinafrica.com
Mark Edwards
Every zebra has a unique pattern of stripes, which may assist individual recognition”
Why the
ZEBRA GOT ITS STRIPES
Flightlink took inspiration from the zebra’s distinctive markings for its brand logo and the name of its inflight magazine. The animal’s black and white stripes are an iconic and instantly recognizable part of the African landscape, but a recent scientific study has proved that they also deter the tiny predators that pose a big risk.
When it comes to discerning the reasons for zebras’ distinctive marking, the answers have been far from black and white – until now. A recent study has given the lie to theories such as that the stripes help zebras evade capture by predators, that the markings are there for social reasons and that the animals are striped to keep cool. However, it has found plenty of evidence that the stripes appear to confuse flies, deterring them from landing for a quick bite.
A team at the University of Bristol, in the UK, conducted the research, which involved 16 hours standing in fields and observing how horseflies interacted with three zebras and nine horses, including some draped in black and white sheets to resemble zebras.
The results, published in the open access scientific journal ‘Plos One’, not only back the idea that a zebra’s stripes ward off flies, but reveal this is achieved by disorientating the fly’s vision, causing it to
turn away or even collide with the zebra when attempting its bloodthirsty landing.
The study found there was no difference between the amount and behaviour of the flies as they hovered over the horses and zebras – including one rather less than descriptively named ‘Spot’ – but the patterns of the zebras and the horse in zebra disguise had an effect when the flies got close.
Every zebra has a unique coat pattern, much like a fingerprint, yet each zebra in the study had the same effect on the flies as did the striped coats on the horses. The coats were used to ensure it was not the different scent of the zebras that was dissuading the flies from landing.
Dr Martin How, co-author of the research from the University of Bristol, said: “The flies seemed to be behaving relatively naturally around both [zebras and horses] until it comes to landing. We saw
that these horseflies were coming in quite fast and almost turning away or sometimes even colliding with the zebra, rather than doing a nice, controlled flight.”
Close examination of video recordings by the team of the flies’ activity around the animals suggested the stripe patterns were playing havoc with the flies’ low-resolution vision. Rather than slowing for landing, the insects would often crash into the zebras at full speed and bounce off.
These results bolstered the team’s theories that stripes and flies don’t mix and a zebra’s patterning is the result of evolution, passing on to future generations a protection against biting insects.
Horseflies are about as bad as it gets for a zebra in a field in Somerset, England, where the study was carried out; but in the zebras’ native environment in southern and eastern Africa, biting flies carry diseases such as trypanosomiasis, African horse sickness and equine influenza, which can be fatal to equids. Zebras are especially vulnerable to fly bites because of their short-cropped coats, so it’s understandable why a fur pattern that helped evade flies and their deadly diseases would evolve.
And the fly-foxing benefits of stripes are not limited to zebras. Those who enjoy the outdoors in Tanzania could take inspiration and wear zebra-patterned clothing to avoid the attention of biting flies.
Spotting the myths about the stripes
The UK's University of Bristol study also exposes a few beliefs about the reasons for a zebra’s unique coat.
Stripes offer camouflage
There is very little in the rolling savannah of the Serengeti that will afford much cover for the zebra’s monochrome markings. Field experiments show that zebras stand out to the human eye when they’re among trees or in grassland. However, there is a story that when the World War One broke out, British mounted troops in Kenya near the border with German colony Tanganyika (now Tanzania) would paint zebra stripes with silver nitrate solution on their easily visible grey horses to camouflage the horses from snipers.
Stripes help zebras interact socially
Every zebra has a unique pattern of stripes, which may assist individual recognition. As the University of Bristol team points out, however, solid-coloured horses can recognise each other by sight and sound; and on the rare occasion a zebra is born without stripes, group members do not shun it.
Stripes keep zebras cool in the sun
Given that black stripes might be expected to absorb radiation and white stripes reflect it, one idea proposed is that stripes set up convection currents along the zebra’s back, thus cooling it. The team conducted field experiments in which large water barrels were draped in striped or solid-coloured pelts, or were painted striped or unstriped, but no differences in internal water temperature were found. Furthermore, thermographic measurements of zebra, impala, buffalo and giraffe in the wild show zebras are no cooler than their cohabitants.
Magical MWANZA
Tanzania’s hidden gem
Flightlink destination Mwanza is an experience with wildlife adventures on your doorsteps and the country’s most beautiful sunsets. Ziada Abeid is won over on her first visit to Tanzania’s second city.
With its green landscapes, dramatic rocky outcrops, and stunning views of Lake Victoria, Mwanza is a feast for the eyes. I arrived ready to explore and left with a camera full of photos and moments I’ll never forget. The sunsets alone were worth the trip. As days draw to a close here, rich, golden colours spill across the horizon and are mirrored in the still waters. Here’s how Mwanza worked its magic on me, and how it might work for you.
When the sun dips below horizon, Mwanza comes alive with energy and rhythm”
Embrace the wild
If you only have a day, Saanane National Park offers an easy escape into nature without straying far from the city. For something more adventurous, Rubondo Island National Park gives you hiking trails, lake views, and a good dose of wildlife.
Not into big safari parks? Mwanza has alternatives. I spent my afternoon strolling around Wag Hill Zoo (located within the lakeside Wag Hill Lodge and Spa), feeding the zebras. Kassa Zoo is another easy option if you want to get up close to local wildlife in a relaxed, family-friendly environment.
Gateway to the Serengeti
Here’s the secret: Mwanza is just 140 km from the Ndabaka Gate, the western entrance to Serengeti National Park. Which means, yes, you can base yourself in the city and still tick ‘Serengeti’ off your list in a single day. Wildlife, vast landscapes, and then back in time for a lakeside dinner.
Feel the beat at night
When the sun dips below the horizon, Mwanza comes alive with energy and rhythm. From Thursday into the weekend, you’ll find local bands performing at bars and clubs. Rock City Mall is a nightlife hub, housing numerous pubs and lounges where you can relax, enjoy a drink, and take in some authentic local entertainment. Notable spots like The Cask and Malaika Hotel are also must-visit destinations for any night owl.
Chase the sunset
I’ve seen many sunsets in Tanzania, but Mwanza has the most stunning sunsets I've ever witnessed. The best way to experience them is on a Lake Victoria cruise. Cruising along the serene waters of Lake Victoria as the sky turns fiery orange, and the famous Bismarck Rock standing tall in silhouette is the kind of moment you’ll want to bottle up and keep forever.
Taste the lake
A visit to Mwanza isn’t complete without tasting famed local fish dish ‘sato’ (tilapia freshly caught from Lake Victoria). Restaurants serve it in different styles - grilled, fried, or cooked in traditional sauces that will have your taste buds dancing. For a high-end dining experience, The Cask is a top choice, while Kijiji Bar and Grill offers a more casual yet equally delightful meal in the heart of the city.
Robin Batista / Shutterstock.com
Mwanza surprised me with its beauty, energy, and warmth”
Find affordable comfort
Mwanza is an ideal destination for budget travellers and families alike. The city offers numerous budget-friendly hotels, such as the Leyshof Hotel and The Pigeon Hotel, both located in the city centre. For those seeking a more luxurious stay,
family resorts like Wag Hill and Malaika, situated on the outskirts of the city, provide all-inclusive packages and are perfect for group retreats.
Mwanza surprised me with its beauty, energy, and warmth. It’s more than just a stopover; it’s a destination that deserves your time. If you're planning a
holiday in Tanzania, consider adding Mwanza to your itinerary for a quick stop and let this lakeside city work its quiet magic on you.
Flightlink now connects to Mwanza with daily flights from Dar es Salaam and Arusha.
Lake life at the Wag Hill Lodge and Spa
MAKING THE MOST OF
There’s more to Moshi than being the gateway to Mount Kilimanjaro. Here’s some reasons to stick around in town whether you’re climbing Africa’s highest peak or not.
(Left) The Jamia Mosque in Moshi, (above) hiking in Materuni and (below) a local artist working with dry banana leaves
Markets
Farms thrive on the volcanic lower slopes of Kilimanjaro and Moshi is the hub for selling their super-fresh produce. Markets dominate the town and sell the widest selection of fruits and vegetables at the best prices. Moshi Central Market operates from sunrise to sunset and is packed with stalls selling fresh produce, livestock, spices, and even edible insects. It’s also a great place to find unique souvenirs like kitenge fabrics and Kilimanjaro coffee beans. Mbuyuni Market is a smaller, more intimate market that is also excellent for fresh produce with melons, mangos and much
Coffee cultivation is deeply ingrained in the culture of the Chagga people, the dominant ethnic group here."
more fruit stacked in pyramids on each stall. For second-hand clothes head to Memorial Market located near the clock tower in the town centre.
Coffee tours
That fertile soil paired with the high altitude and regular rainfall makes Moshi and its surrounding slopes ideal for coffee growing. Coffee cultivation is deeply ingrained in the culture of the Chagga people,
the dominant ethnic group here. This is not a region of large plantations, but rather a network of small family-run farms passed through generations. This makes a coffee tour here a uniquely intimate and enlightening experience.
A 30-minute drive from Moshi will take you to Materuni, a village at around 1,300 metres above sea level in the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro where banana, avocado and coffee grows in abundance. Visits offer a true
The grinding of the coffee beans is a communal event
bean-to-cup experience from picking cherries to roasting the dried and shelled beans and brewing. Visitors will often be called on to assist with grinding the roast beans with a large mortar and pestle. It’s hard work, but villagers young and old provide the rhythmic pulse to work to with songs and clapping. The ground coffee is then added to filtered mountain water and heated over a fire for an unforgettable cuppa.
Kikuletwa hot springs
With all the lush green hills that surround Moshi, it’s surprising that just a short drive will take you into this arid, dusty landscape. It’s even more surprising that this is where you’ll find this oasis of lush greenery and crystal-clear, turquoise waters. The Kikuletwa Hot Springs is a pair of beautiful natural pools shrouded in banyan trees. The water is heated by underground geothermal activity in the volcanic Kilimanjaro region. The tourist attraction is also known
as Chemko Hot Springs after the name of the neighbouring town. ‘Mchemko’ means ‘boiling’ in Swahili, but the water is lukewarm and supports a population of garra rufa fish, also known as “doctor fish. These fish are famous for nibbling on dead skin, providing a natural exfoliation. As soon as you get in the water these fish are on you, which is a bit disconcerting, but go with the ‘fish pedicure’ –there are spas that charge good money for this service. There are wooden steps leading into the water or you can emulate the locals and use the rope tied to one of the banyans to swing yourself into the pool’s depths. There is an entrance fee to access the pool, but once that’s paid you can stay as long as you want. There are basic changing facilities and a picnic area.
Materuni waterfalls
Coffee tours in Materuni are easily paired with a hike to this picturesque waterfall on the edge of the Kilimanjaro reserve.
The Materuni Waterfall is fed by the Mware River that runs through the village. The scenic 40-minute walk from the village is an opportunity to meet locals at work in the farms as well as artists taking advantage of the tourist trail to sell their work. A popular art form involves cutting the banana leaves that are so plentiful here into intricate shapes to form scenes inspired by nature and daily life. You may be lucky enough to find an artist at work on his latest creation by the roadside. At around 80 metres-high the waterfall is one of the tallest on the slopes of Mt Kilimanjaro. It is also very beautiful with its powerful yet calming cascade of water plunging into a pool below that you can swim in.
Chagga cuisine
To round off your time in Materuni it is possible to organise a traditional Chagga meal prepared by a local household. The meal is a selection of local favourites – made for sharing – that reflect the Chagga people’s agricultural heritage. Expect dishes such as mtori (banana soup), pilau, maharage (beans) and mchicha (Tanzanian spinach). If you are interested, it’s also possible to have a glass of the local banana beer, made by fermenting cooked bananas in wooden barrels. The result is like a boozy porridge. The beer is a big part of Chagga social life, coming out at weddings, funerals, and other important ceremonies.
Relax at Kikuletwa hot springs
Sample some Chagga cuisine
Nairobi National Park
A NIGHT GAME DRIVE IN NAIROBI NATIONAL PARK
Harriet James enjoys the sights and sounds of a safari that reveals animal behaviour after dark.
Late at night, in the heart of Nairobi National Park, a deep, guttural roar pierces the stillness. It’s a male lion calling out across the dark savannah in search of its pride. The sound is primal and raw, echoing through the cool air like thunder rolling across the plains. It was not just a call; it was a declaration of presence, power, and longing. I felt it in my chest before I fully processed it with my ears – a trembling vibration that reminded me how close I was to the wild.
“His name is Selengei,” says Derrick Owino, our tour guide. He’s holding a large torch and fixing its beam on the roaring lion just metres away. All while the glowing lights of Nairobi – the world’s only capital city with a national park within its boundaries – shimmer in the background. This is a wild encounter framed by the pulse of the city. “It’s roar can be heard 10 km away. He’s calling for his pride,” Derrick says.
We were in the Selengei’s territory. The eight-year-old lion has a pride comprising several
Seeing one of the Big Five at night hits different. And not just lions”
females and their cubs. There is also Oloshona, another male and together with Selengei, these two males control the park.
Night comes alive
I was here enjoying this awesome but uneasy moment courtesy of the city’s Tribe Hotel, which recently launched its night game drive. My previous experiences of night drives have been underwhelming with the wildlife amounting to just a few hares, crickets, and hyenas. Seeing one of the Big Five at night hits different. And not
just lions. I was shocked to see every other wildlife that I would usually see during the day in a park, all out at night going about their night business.
We were in the vehicle with two Kenya Wildlife Service rangers and Barbara Njambi, one of the chieftains at the Tribe, who was a great company during the drive. The rangers use red-filtered spotlights to minimise disturbance so that we may spot predators like lions on the hunt, leopards slinking through the grass, or hyenas scavenging. Nocturnal creatures such as aardvarks, porcupines, bush babies, and genets may also emerge.
Derrick says: “90 percent of all activities in the park happen at night. Lions rest during the day and then hunt at night. The night is also cooler than the day and most animals would prefer operating at this time too.”
As a visitor, the night-time also worked for me. I appreciated that our vehicle was the only one to see all this awesomeness. A lion sighting in the daylight would draw a crowd of game-drive vehicles.
Owl omens
We left the territory to look for the leopard but even as we drove, I still held my breath, listening as the roaring continued. We saw an owl perched on the branch of an acacia tree branch watching us in wide-eyed, unblinking silence.
“In African societies, meeting an owl is a bad omen,” says Derrick. “In the past, they used to be killed but people are more aware now.” My guide proved
90 percent of all activities in the park happen at night. Lions rest during the day and then hunt at night. The night is also cooler than the day and most animals would prefer operating at this time too”
full of owl facts. “They have a highly flexible neck with 14 cervical vertebrae which is twice as many as humans have. This allows it to rotate their heads up to 270 degrees without moving their bodies.” he continued.
As our vehicle rounded a bend beneath the star-streaked sky, the headlights caught the elegant silhouette of a giraffe standing motionless against the backdrop of acacia trees.
Bathed in a soft, golden glow, its long neck stretched high into the night, as if reaching for the moon. It turned slowly to look at us, eyes wide and shimmering, reflecting the quiet curiosity of a creature both gentle and majestic. There was something surreal about seeing such a towering animal in the darkness – its presence so calm and dreamlike.
Rhino family
We were not lucky enough to see a leopard, but we spot black rhinos, their hulking forms emerging from the shadows like ancient guardians of the land. One stood protectively beside her calf, who stayed close, its small horn barely visible above the grass. The pair moved cautiously, ears twitching at every sound, the mother alert and aware of our presence but unbothered, confident in her strength.
Watching the baby nuzzle beneath her side was deeply moving as it was a rare and powerful glimpse into the tenderness of a species often defined by toughness and solitude.
It was closing in on 10pm and our adventure was coming to an end, but there still more wildlife sightings on the return drive to the park gate. We saw a lone buffalo, spotted hyenas fighting for a kill and even tiny hares darted across the dusty path, their bodies low and swift, like flickers of shadow in the spotlight’s beam. It was a reminder of how alert and vulnerable life is in the wild after dark, and what a privilege it is to see them at this time.
Big cats are active at dusk so a night drive can include lion sightings
Lake Tanganyika in numbers
676 km
The length of Lake Tanganyika, making it the longest freshwater lake in the world.
some staggering statistics on Africa’s deepest lake
20 metres
Divers will also appreciate the incredible clarity of the waters here with visibility up to 20 metres in the dry season. The water is also warm with an all-yearround temperature of 25°C. Ensure you snorkel safely. with local experts or lodges, as some parts of the lake can have hazards like crocodiles, hippos, and bilharzia.
6.1 metres
98 %
Almost all of the 250-plus species of cichlids in the world can only be found in Lake Tanganyika. Cichlids are famously colourful fish, making snorkelling and diving a beautiful experience.
26
The number of rivers that flow into Lake Tanganyika. Only one, the Lukuga River, flows out.
1,471
The maximum depth of Africa’s deepest lake. Lake Tanganyika cavernous basin was formed by volcanic rifts in the earth’s surface millions of years ago. The high mountains surrounding the lake act like natural dams, trapping abundant rainfall and contributing to its immense depth over time. Only Lake Baikal in Siberia is deeper.
Lake Tanganyika is home to a population of Nile crocodiles, none bigger than ‘Gustave’, a monstrous 6.1-metre-long specimen that has killed more than 300 people according to local legend.
4
The shoreline of Lake Tanganyika touches four African countries: Tanzania, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Burundi and Zambia. Tanzania’s share of the shoreline is very picturesque with white sand beaches, turquoise waters, lush vegetation, and the dramatic backdrop of the Mahale Mountains.
17%
The percentage of the world’s surface freshwater that Lake Tanganyika holds.
MISALI ISLAND
The protected coral reefs of nature reserve Misali Island offer some of the best diving and snorkelling in the Zanzibar archipelago. There’s plenty more attractions inland with rare wildlife, sacred caves and historic pirate hideouts. Just an hour’s boat ride from Pemba’s west coast, here’s why Misali Island is a day trip to die for.
Make time for A reef of wonders
The Misali Island Marine Conservation Area was set up in the 1990s to restore and protect the island’s rich marine and terrestrial diversity. The success of the 22-sq-km protected area – which is supported by the local community – along with the island’s remoteness has contributed to a pristine coral reef supporting diverse marine life.
Misali’s vibrant reef ecosystem also benefits from its unique position within the Pemba Channel, where deep oceanic currents meet shallower reefs. Today, it is home to over 350 species of fish, 40 types of coral, and even the occasional visit from dolphins, turtles, and whale sharks.
The island’s coral gardens begin just metres from the shore, making it ideal for snorkellers, who will love the calm waters and clear visibility. Flippers and masks are available for hire on Mbuyuni Beach, on the north-east of the island, where most visiting boats drop anchor. There are more dramatic drop-offs in the reef further out from shore to attract experienced divers.
Perhaps one of the best features of this underwater paradise is how few people know about it – for now. This makes for an exclusive snorkelling experience. Even if the main beach is crowded, you can wander the island trails until you discover a secluded spot to swim.
Animals inland
The 1 sq km Misali Island is also a haven for wildlife inland with its lush forest home to Pemba vervet monkey (how they got to the island seems to be a bit of a mystery), Pemba white-eye (a, small, warbler-like bird with bright yellow feathers), and Pemba sunbird. There is also a population of gigantic coconut crabs – you won’t find an arthropod bigger – that burrow in the sandy soil in the island’s coastal thickets and climb palms trees to crack open coconut shells with their powerful claws. The island’s beaches are also important nesting sites for green turtles and hawksbill turtles. The nature trail that winds through the forest will lead you to the island’s western coast and Mpapaini beach, which is a turtle favourite.
Vervet monkeys have made a home in the island's forest
MISALI ISLAND
Sustainable fishing
Misali Island is crucial to the fishing industry that Pemba depends on for food security and livelihoods for the local community. Misali is located in the Pemba Channel – a stretch of deep water between the island and mainland Tanzania that is a productive fishing area – and many fishermen set up temporary camps here as a base for extended fishing trips. Wander the island and you’re sure to meet these friendly fishermen. While the waters around here are known for their abundant fish populations, fishermen have been taught to not drop their nets in the non-extraction zone of the conservation area. Most of the fishermen have embraced the conservation goals of the island and have embraced ecotourism as another revenue stream. They know the island very well so prove informative guides if visitors want a tour of Misali.
Eco-Islam
One of the most effective ways of bringing the local fishermen around to adopting more sustainable practices has proved to be through their faith. The vast majority of Pemba’s population, fishermen included, identify as Muslim. Misali Island has strong ties to Islam. Local legend tells of a saintly man called Prophet Hadhara who visited the island and, upon finding no prayer mat, declared the island itself to be one, as its northern beach faces Mecca. The name ‘Misali’ is derived from the Swahili word for prayer mat.
The fact that Misali is considered a sacred place by Muslims has translated to a strong sense of respect and protection for the natural environment. Islamic teachings being used to promote sustainable fishing practices.
Pirates’ paradise
You may want to do some beachcombing during your time on Misali. Legend has it that the notorious pirate Captain Kidd used the island as a hideout and that he buried treasure here. During the late 17th and early 18th centuries Misali was part of the ‘Pirate Round’, a sailing route used by buccaneers in the Indian Ocean. The island’s location and surrounding coral reefs made it a safe haven for pirates to store their booty.
Mangroves
Mangrove forests in Misali’s sheltered coastal areas play a vital role in the island’s ecosystem, acting as fish nurseries, protecting coastlines from erosion, and providing habitats for birds and other wildlife. There is a mangrove replanting initiative led by local women’s groups on Misali.
Sacred caves
Adding to the mystique of the island are its inland caves that are believed by many Pembans to hold the spirits of ancestors. Bendera Cave – a short walk from the visitor centre on Mbuyuni Beach – is considered a sacred place where rituals are carried out by locals. The larger Mpapaini Caves, with their unique rock formations, on the west side of the island are also a popular attraction.
Visitor fees
As Misali Island is a nature reserve within its own conservation area, there is an entry fee (US$ 10 for each visitor). Many boat tours include the fee within their price, but it is worth checking before you board. The fee is used to support conservation programmes on the island such as daily ranger patrols and enforcing bans on destructive fishing practices.
How to get there: Boat trips go from the beach at Mkoani near the ferry port. Wesha, in the Chaka Chaka district, is another popular launch point. Journeys from both locations take around an hour to reach Misali Island.
Mangrove forests protect Misali's coastline
Misali is a haven for the local fishing community
The real Africa should be DRIVEN, SMELT, TASTED, AND LIVED
The Africa Rally sees a host of inappropriate vehicles –stretch limos, London taxis and ice-cream vans – head off on a 5,000 km adventure. Mark Edwards charts the journey with rally director Paul Clayton.
If you were planning a 5,000km drive from South Africa to Kenya, taking in sights such as the Botswana Salt Pans, Victoria Falls, Lake Malawi and the Serengeti along the way, and had ambitions to complete the journey trouble-free, it is unlikely your vehicle of choice would be a 1994 Mercedes stretch limo, a 1958 Morris Minor or a London black cab.
However, these are just a few of the 50 weird and wonderful vehicles that took part in this year’s Africa Rally. For race director Paul Clayton, driving these old, slightly ridiculous automobiles is “the difference between a journey across Africa and an adventure”.
In the race – now in its fifth year – mechanical issues are to be expected, even celebrated. The Golden Pineapple Award is given each year to the team, Paul says, “who have had the
recommendations for great local lunch spots, campsites, or even trusted mechanics!”
Paul has always had a passion for travelling overland through Africa. Selling his fintech start-up in 2020 allowed him, in his words, to “swap the boardroom for the bush” and take his time exploring his favourite route from South Africa to Kenya. These adventures sparked the idea for the rally while also revealing how ready Africans are to assist a stranger, and how resourceful and ingenious is the help they can provide.
“I think this willingness to help a stranger in need at the side most breakdowns, battled hardest with their vehicle, and ultimately met the greatest challenges head on”.
You’d think vehicle trouble or getting lost in an unfamiliar country would be stressful, but Paul says it presents unique opportunities to interact with locals in a more meaningful way than typical tourist encounters.
Cars start conversations
“With the road network ever improving, it’s no longer a challenge to drive an equipped 4x4 between South Africa and Kenya,” Paul says. “Driving into a fuel station in a new Toyota will (for the most part) mean you are treated like just another tourist, but driving in with a Ford Cortina immediately elicits an emotional response from those around you. How? Why? Where are you going next? In turn this provides the perfect opportunity not just to brighten someone’s day, but to ask for
The 5,000km race has two route options
of the road is a trait which has been lost in a lot of the northern hemisphere,” Paul says. “The understanding that it could be you in need is well understood though in Africa, and particularly in Malawi or Tanzania the mentality is that if I help you, then someone will help me. This friendly and community-minded spirit has led to a lot of new friendships over the years.
Innovative solutions
“I’m never ceased to be amazed by some of the solutions I’ve seen put into action at the side of the road to keep a vehicle running. This includes building a distributor cap pin out of blade fuses, using trees and rachet straps to brace a broken chassis, and even strapping a fuel tank to the roof to build a gravity fed system when the pump failed.”
The race tries to ensure that the help goes both ways. Local businesses are supported – from lodges, restaurants and bars used as ‘hospitality partners’ through the local tour companies offering extra adventures such as balloon rides, diving and white-water rafting to the Malawian artisans
who make the end-of-race trophies. “We wanted to enrich the lives of people in the countries which we travel through, and ensure a warm welcome for people participating,” says Paul. “We ensure that local suppliers, businesses, and artists are used throughout the route to pump more money into local economies at a grass roots level.”
Each team also raises money for a global charity of their choice with most choosing projects located along the route of the rally so they can stop off to see the work they are supporting. Some teams used creative ways to attract donations. Team Hectic Africa – the ones driving a London taxi – kept the metre running for the entire rally and challenged people to guess the final cost of the fare. Each guess costs R20 (US$ 1) and all funds are donated to their charity.
Securing donations for charity seems to be the only part of the rally that gets competitive with the trophy for the Most Money Raised hotly contested. Paul says: “The charity lea derboard is extremely close, and I know there’s a bit of friendly competition. So far,
With the road network ever improving, it’s no longer a challenge to drive an equipped 4x4 between South Africa and Kenya”
we have raised over R700,000 (US$ 22,300) for 31 amazing causes.”
Breakdowns and getting lost are all part of the Africa Rally adventure
Other awards to be won include the Scavenger Hunt Trophy, Best Dressed (vehicle included), and the Photo of the Rally competition. Tellingly, there is no award for team who finishes first. Instead, the top prize –won this year by team ‘The 5th Beatle’ in a 1960 VW Beetle – is chosen by a points-based system based on the age of the team vehicle, the amount raised for the chosen charity, and any help they have provided along the route to fellow participants. These prizes are presented at the Finish Line Party at the lakeside Victoria Sands Lodge in Mbita, Kenya. It says something about the event’s emphasis on fun that there is a party – including performances by local musicians and DJs – at the start, end and mid-way points of the rally.
As well as the social side, the teams get to enjoy some of Africa’s most spectacular natural attractions all in one trip. There are two routes – ‘Challenger’ and ‘Discovery’ –that are roughly the same distance (5,000 km) and difficulty. Both routes take the same path initially from Hartbeespoort, South Africa, to Senga Bay on the banks of Lake Malawi. From there the ‘Challenger’ route continues north into Tanzania, taking in Lake Tanganyika the Serengeti and Mt Kilimanjaro, before finishing in Kenya. Next year the route will take in the Indian Ocean coast giving teams the option to fit in a trip to Zanzibar. There’s more reef diving potential on the ‘Discovery’, which takes east from Malawi to the Mozambique coast and then back to eSwatini.
'The real Africa'
For Paul, the Africa Rally is an immersive and transformative experience. “The teams travel through are some of the most famous places on the planet, and no one really wants to experience them from the window of a tour bus. The real Africa should be driven, smelt, tasted, and lived.”
It seems those who are taking part in the race are as diverse and characterful as the vehicles they drive. “One of the beautiful things about The Africa Rally is that it attracts participants young and old, as well as from all corners of the world,” Paul says. “In 2025 we had 16 nationalities represented. There were a large number of husband-and-wife teams, and even one couple choosing The Africa Rally as their honeymoon adventure.”
Sign up for next year
This year’s event was sold out with 50 vehicles on the road, each with a maximum of four passengers. Almost half of the places for next year’s event are already gone. Paul says the success of the event – now in its fifth year – is a surprise, given it began as an accident. His 2019 solo Africa overland trip in a 1980 Mk4 Ford Cortina caught the interest of friends and family, who wanted to join him. Paul also started to get enquiries from strangers asking about visas, or places to stay, or road conditions for their own trips. “It seemed like everyone wanted to explore this area of the world, but they all had reasons or at least fears that were stopping them,” he says. “It was shortly after this trip that I decided an annual event removing all of the barriers these individuals had for
travelling Africa was needed.” Paul still has the Cortina. It has become the official reconnaissance vehicle for the Africa Rally with trips scouting for new routes and finding new hospitality partners ahead of each year’s event. In 2025, however, Paul hitchhiked the entire ‘Challenger’ route. “This year has also been the first year where we’ve had so many international teams that have raised concerns about safety on the trip. We can confidently say from a human aspect that The Africa Rally route goes through some of the safest and most welcoming countries on the planet. To highlight this, hitchhiking solo and entirely relying on the kindness of strangers seemed like the obvious choice.”
That doesn’t mean there won’t be challenges along the way. As a case in point, consider the travails of ‘Team Ewe Turn’, the winners of this year’s The Golden Pineapple. Paul says: “They are two young men from Wales, aged 20 and 21. They almost got eaten by lions while trying to walk off the Botswana Salt Pans after their Land Rover got stuck. Breakdown after breakdown followed, but they refused to give up, helped everyone else along the way and still made it to the finish line. They very much embodied the spirit of the rally.”
Early Bird entry for The Africa Rally 2026 is already open. Sign up at www.africarally.com
Entry is per vehicle, no additional costs per person. Prices start at GBP 995 (US$ 1,326) for the Random Entry Category (think limos, taxis, ice cream vans and other inappropriate vehicles) Classic car entry is GBP 1,249 (US$ 1,664)
Classic cars are a favourite mode of transport for the rally teams
Prizes are awarded at the end of the rally
The butterflies of
Lake Manyara
John Woolmer visits Lake Manyara National Park in search of its 170 species of butterfly.
In April, I visited Lake Manyara National Park with my daughter and her family. They live in Arusha, from which Lake Manyara is just a two-hour drive on the way to the Serengeti.
We saw many wild animals, especially elephants, and many birds of which the most spectacular was a very friendly red and yellow barbet which patrolled one of the picnic sites. We also enjoyed seeing a group of pelicans swimming on the lake. For anyone wanting to see Tanzanian birds, the park provides a superb location.
However, my heart was set on spotting some even smaller colourful creatures. Lake
Manyara is home to 170 species of butterfly and my aim was to photograph as many of them as possible.
We managed some 27 during our stay. The most beautiful included two species of Mother of Pearl which were frequently seen in the more wooded areas. We photographed four of the
charaxes species (Brutus, Kirki, Varanes and Zoolina). Zoolina has a blue coloured male, and the female is orange-brown. These are large butterflies, usually with double tails, which were often seen feeding on animal dung. This diet is thought to help the virility of the males.
Butterflies of all colours
Among the family of swallowtail butterflies to be found in the park, the Mocker Swallowtail (Papilio dardanus) was dominant. The males are large white-tailed butterflies which often feed beside roadside puddles. The ‘mocker’ name comes from the fact that this harmless butterfly mimics the appearance of poisonous
Salamis ancardii Clouded Mother of Pearl
butterflies for its protection. The late British physician and lepidopterist Professor Sir Cyril Clarke has always claimed that the discovery of the supergenes involved in this butterfly mimicry led to his ideas on treating the human hereditary immune disease suffered by Rhesus-positive blood-group babies born to Rhesus-negative mothers.
The white family of butterflies (Pieridae) well represented. The most spectacular were the beautiful blue vagrant (Nepheronia thalassina), the glorious coast purple tip (Colotis hetaera), and the very common scarlet tip (Colotis danae). We saw a second kind of ‘purple’ tip.
Mimic of the monarch
The African monarch (Danaus chrysippus) was also present. This large butterfly is protected by being poisonous to birds on account of its caterpillars feeding on the poisonous milkweed plants. The Diadem (hypolimnas misippus) females are a very good mimic of the Monarch and thereby
gain protection. The males, obviously less valuable to the survival of the species, look completely different.
We observed the painted lady (Vanessa cardui), which is found throughout the world, as well as plenty of Acraeids which are usually slow flying and relatively easy to photograph. They often pose with their wings stretched open in a way which becomes easy to recognise.
Guided trek
The skipper family are small butterflies which have a look and behaviour similar to moths. We were also pleased to see, among others, the two-pip policeman (Coeliades pisistrus), which gets its name from the distinctive markings on it wings that resemble the stars ‘pips’ on a British police officer’s shoulder.
We didn’t see very many of the Blue family. Alaena ferrulineata (one of the Zulu family). Luckily, they are very docile so the few we did see sat conveniently on stems of grass waiting to be photographed.
The ‘mocker’ name comes from the fact that this harmless butterfly mimics the appearance of poisonous butterflies for its protection”eliqui occus
We were able to walk with an armed ranger through various sections of the park. The edges of the forest areas were particularly good for seeing butterflies. Many common species, like the Soldier Commodore (Junonia terea) were present in good numbers. The early morning – from about 9am – is a particularly good viewing time. The lake, which is easily approached, provided sightings of many birds including storks, egrets, ibis, herons and pelicans. It
Papilio dardanus(f) hippacoon Mocker swallowtail
also has plenty of hippos and crocodiles.
Lake Manyara National Park has many other attractions: troops of baboons, various monkeys, warthogs, many species of deer, giraffe, buffalo, plenty of elephants and even tree-climbing lions, which, unfortunately, we didn’t see. The baboon troops were very large; the elephants casually crossed the roads and inspected any parked vehicles.
Entering the park can take time, but once you are in, the place is a delight. There is a nice freedom in being able to explore the park’s diverse habitats. On the first day, we seemed to have the park almost to ourselves. Just also and the plentiful wildlife. Efforts to combat poaching and protect elephant habitats are beginning to yield positive results.
We would heartily recommend visiting the park and staying in the nearby well-equipped Migombani Camp which has spacious tents, a lovely swimming pool, and a decent bar and restaurant. The steep path leading from the main road to the campsite houses proved to be an excellent area for butterfly spotting. The site gives you a fine view of the nearby lake and the park entrance on its doorstep.
Most were taken in the Lake Manyara National Park with a few – of butterflies that can be seen in the park – were taken elsewhere in Tanzania.
Photographs were taken by Ben Ray, Zaki Ray (aged 11), and Jane and John Woolmer.
Charaxes Kirki
Reasons why now is the best time to experience
the magic of the Mara
With the Great Migration reaching its dramatic peak and predators on the prowl, September to November is when the Masai Mara really roars.
01
The Great Migration finale
September and October are the peak times to the breathtaking spectacle of thousands of wildebeest and zebra making their dramatic crossings of the crocodile-filled Mara River – a true wildlife extravaganza.
02 Prime predator action
With herds of herbivores everywhere, lions, cheetahs, and leopards are on the hunt. Visitors a front-row ticket to nature’s own action movie.
04
03
Perfect weather
The skies are usually clear, the days are warm (but not too hot), and the evenings are just cool enough for cosy campfire stories under the stars.
Sparse vegetation
The grass is shorter after the dry season, so you’ll have excellent visibility to spot all the animals, big and small.
Unique cultural encounters
September and October are wonderful months to meet local Maasai communities and learn about their traditions and daily life. 05
Fewer bugs
With less rain and cooler nights, there are fewer mosquitoes around, so you can focus on the adventure instead of the insect repellent.
Fewer tourists
The peak crowds of July and August have thinned out, giving you a more relaxed and intimate safari experience.
Photographer’s paradise
The golden light of the Mara in these months makes for stunning photos – think glowing sunsets and dramatic wildlife shots.
Birdwatcher’s delight
Migratory birds begin to arrive, adding a splash of colour and song to the Mara’s already vibrant landscape.
A season of celebration
The Mara feels festive and alive, with animal families thriving and the landscape buzzing with activity. You’ll feel the magic in the air.
Ride into the real DAR ES SALAAM
A two-wheeled tour presents a side of Dar that is rarely explored while getting to the heart of the everyday innovation that drives the city.
“Iknow everybody in Dar,” my ebullient tour guide Mejah Mbuya tells me as we pitch and bounce on mountain bikes over the city’s cratered back streets. It’s quite a claim.
Tanzania’s commercial capital is one of the fastest growing cities in the world with a population of more than eight million. However, just minutes into our Dar Reality Bike Tour – crafted by Mbuya to reveal the city beyond its commercial centre, beach-fringed peninsula and highways – I’m beginning to believe him. Wherever we go Mbuya is met with a chorus of greetings as he swaps hugs, back slaps, handshakes and fist bumps with locals from toddlers to the elderly. It’s clear he is not only known, but also very much loved here.
The love stems from the fact the half-day tour – just one of a series of inventive trips in Dar and its surrounds Mbuya runs through his company AfriRoots – reveals a part of the city previously cloistered away from the usual tourist trail. Never exploitative, it shines
an admiring spotlight on the informal, innovative economy that earned the city its ‘Bongo’ (Kiswahili for ‘brain’) nickname.
So, visitors get to see a local coffee delivery service, artisans working with leather, textiles and recycled materials, mamas preparing lunches over one stove for passers-by, and markets teeming with bargains and fresh produce. With unemployment so high in Dar, Mbuya applauds this DIY drive to make a living and wants to do what he can to support it. That includes talent-spotting for tour guides. He saw the potential of Jeremiah or ‘Jerry’ – who ably takes over
guide duties while we are in his home neighbourhood of Mwananyamala – while out riding on earlier tours.
Mentoring has been a key part of Mbuya’s other projects such as Dar urban arts collective Wachata Crew, which he co-founded. As part of this influential troupe of hip-hop-obsessed graffiti artists, Mbuya has maintained his involvement in community outreach schemes to encourage the people of Dar to express themselves in street art.
Such commitment to social justice has led to Mbuya being called on to speak to the United
It’s a feast for the senses. Nests of drying banana leaves line the street and there are stacks of plump mangoes, pineapples and avocados – cut open to sample."
Opposite page:
AfriRoots guides
Jerry and Mejah
Nations and he was heavily involved in the recent adding of cycle lanes to two of Dar’s busiest streets, Morogoro Road and Kawawa Road.
The twin loves of Dar and bikes are also indulged in the Reality Tour. It has been running for a couple of years and among those to have ridden alongside Mbuya are former England international football star Wayne Rooney. He, alongside his teammates from his second stint at Everton FC – a period in which East Africa’s SportPesa was the team’s shirt sponsor –caused pandemonium among the Premiership-loving Dar residents during the trip.
The reaction to my arrival is understandably more muted, but getting high fives as I ride from groups of beaming children is a heart-warming highlight. Riding the bikes is great fun. The distance is not a physical challenge – it’s 15 km
round trip – but hazards include pot holes, puddles, ‘bajaji’ motorised rickshaws and the occasional goat. If you would prefer not to cycle, the trip can also be taken on foot or bajaji. The trip is by turns heart-breaking, hilarious, joyous and eye-opening. Here are my highlights.
Coffee-making
Dar style
For an energy boost, Mbuya takes us to his favourite Dar backstreet barista in the Makumbusho neighbourhood. Here a young man stands to grind roasted coffee beans with a giant mortar and a pestle big enough to double as a baseball bat. He listens to the beans as he works, with the different sounds they make with each whump of the pestle letting him know when to temper his blows and begin to grind the grains. Things get a little less sensitive when I take over with
the pestle, but the results still make an excellent and powerful cuppa. The bitterness of the strong Turkish coffee is tempered by chunks of a peanut brittle called kashata or, as Mbuyah puts it, “African Snickers”.
Second hand markets
Donated clothes (mitumba) from abroad are resold locally here in dukas (stalls) across Makumbusho and at the sprawling Kariakoo market. Vendors usually buy the clothes in bulk and unseen, but they know what sells and arrange some well organised, attractive stalls. There are retro fashion steals to be had here. I spotted Red Tab Levi jeans, Nike Air hi-tops and Adidas trainers for just a few hundred shillings each. Even Dar youths – once so enamoured of their fast fashion – are beginning to look to the markets to create more singular, pre-loved looks.
Steaming secondhand caps in Kariakoo market
Food market
Kariakoo also has an amazing fresh produce of market. It’s a feast for the senses. Nests of drying banana leaves line the street and there are stacks of plump mangoes, pineapples and avocados – with many super sweet examples cut open to sample. Sections of the market are also given over to spices, grains and vegetables.
Make a Swahili snack
In front of one of the many traditional Swahili homes –recognisable by their four-sided roofs and six internal rooms – in the Mwananyamala neighbourhood two women cook a steady supply of vitumbua (coconut rice pancakes) and chapatis to feed the local workforce. People wander past to grab one on the go or for something more substantial there is a side porch with seating where you can have a meal of chapatis, kidney beans and hot spiced tea. I’m invited to make a chapati over the one hot stove. The result is like a tasty and more substantial pancake and goes down well with the tea’s hit of cardamom and cloves.
Swahili pharmacy
Traditional Swahili medicine blends African spiritualism and herbalism and it is hugely popular across Tanzania. It helps that it’s cheaper than conventional medicine and promises to tackle ailments you’d struggle to get a medical doctor to show concern for.
The pharmacist is not in, but Jerry delights in rifling through boxes of treatments, including a love potion that is to be lit and inhaled while thinking of your romantic target. There are also bags of elephant dung, which can be burned to keep away mosquitoes. Jerry is kind enough not to open a box that already has the attention of a swarm of flies. He says it contains rotten
eggs, which are to be thrown to the ground while standing at a crossroads and incanting a rival’s name. Bad luck is then sure to befall them.
Afri Roots also offers bike trips in the Pugu Hills outside Dar and multi-day rides in the Usambara Mountains. Adventures in the commercial capital include a Dar History Tour and ‘Dar by Night’. For the full range of Afri Roots tours, visit afriroots.co.tz
Swahili snacks: (clockwise from top) vitumbua, market spices, and preparing chapatis
for flying with Flightlink
Bethlehem Mekuria wins a return ticket to Nairobi from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar, well done and thank you for flying with Flightlink
Earn your stripes Flightlink quiz
Chance to win a return Flightlink ticket
We know Flightlink customers are smart – you chose to fly with us for a start – but just how smart? Well, here’s the test: 10 questions to occupy your minds during your flight. Answer them all correctly – you’ll find all the answers within the articles in this issue of Zebra Stripes if you need help – and you could win a return ticket between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar on us.
HOW TO ENTER
To be in with a chance of winning a return flight between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar international airports, email your answers along with a picture of yourself holding this issue of Zebra Stripes on your flight today to competition@landmarine.org Closing date for entries is 11 November 2025.
1 Tarangire National Park is famous for migratory herds of which massive animal during the dry season?
2 How many butterfly species have been recorded in Lake Manyara National Park?
3 What is the Swahili name for the coconut rice cakes that are a popular street food snack?
4 What is the name of the town in the Kilimanjaro foothills where most mountain treks begin?
5 In which months does the Great Migration reach the Masai Mara?
6 What is the name of the award given to the team with the most breakdowns in the Africa Rally?
7 Mwanza has a national park within its boundaries. Can you name it?
8
Misali Island is an hour's boat ride from the west coast of the Zanzibar Archipelago's second-largest island. What is its name?
Our destinations
The
Flightlink network
Our growing network includes eight Tanzanian destinations and is now international with the recent additions of Mombasa and Nairobi in Kenya. Here’s a brief guide to each to help you plan your next trip with Flightlink.
Dar es Salaam
Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘haven of peace’ in Arabic) is Tanzania’s largest city and its commercial capital. Dar is the third fastest growing city in Africa and home to a thriving arts, music and food culture. It is also a coastal city with beautiful beaches, including Coco Beach, which is known for wealth of beach bars and nightclubs. Soak up the city's bustle at its markets. Kariakoo Market is the pulse of the city's traditional commerce with fresh fruit, vegetables and spices, second-hand clothes and bargains galore. Make an early start to catch the fishermen laden with the night's catch at Kivukoni Fish Market on the waterfront. It's a great place to see daily life and enjoy seafood. For a more tranquil shopping experience head to The Slipway shopping centre overlooking Msasani Bay.
Zanzibar
Zanzibar is an archipelago of more than 47 islands off the east coast of Tanzania. Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island)‚ Pemba and Mafia are the main islands and attract visitors from all over the world. The islands are known for their rich history, spectacular beaches and diverse marine life. Unguja is just a 20-minute flight from Dar es Salaam and is famous for its
historic port Stone Town, which is home to a cosmopolitan community shaped by centuries of trade with the Middle East, Europe and Africa, The island is ringed with coral reefs with diverse marine life. An incredible underwater world awaits divers here while kite surfers will love the idyllic conditions of the south-east coast.
Arusha
Arusha in northern Tanzania is the gateway to the world-famous national parks of the ‘Northern Safari Circuit’. It is also the place from where hikers set off to ascend Mount Kilimanjaro. Getting to the top of ‘Kili’, as Africa’s highest peak is affectionately called, is a bucket-list experience for climbers the world over. With close to 760,000 inhabitants‚ Arusha region is one of the most developed in Tanzania‚ not only due to its tourism infrastructure‚ its business community‚ but also because the city serves as home to the diplomatically important East African Community.
Serengeti
airstrips
One of Africa’s seven natural wonders, the Serengeti National Park covers an area of over 30,000 sq km and boasts massive wildlife populations,
including the Big Five. It is best known for its Great Migration in which millions-strong herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope move from the Ngorongoro region in the south east‚ westwards into the Serengeti and then north over the border into the Masai Mara and back again in a cyclical search for green pastures to feed on. Lying in wait on this perilous journey are predators including around 4,000 lions.
Pemba
Pemba‚ often referred to as ‘The Green Island’, is part of the Zanzibar archipelago‚ and
Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's commercial capital
Kehinde Temitope Odutayo / Shutterstock.com
A leopard on the look-out from a tree in the Masai Mara National Reserve
is renowned for its lush‚ tropical landscapes‚ including dense forests‚ spice plantations‚ and pristine beaches. The island offers a quieter‚ more authentic experience compared to its larger, more developed Zanzibar Island. Visitors can explore historic ruins‚ vibrant markets‚ and traditional Swahili culture. Pemba is famous for its thriving spice trade‚ particularly cloves. Diving and snorkelling enthusiasts are drawn to the crystal-clear waters surrounding Pemba‚ which host a diverse marine ecosystem‚ including coral reefs.
Masai Mara
The Masai Mara National Reserve is one of Africa’s most celebrated and enchanting wildlife sanctuaries. It is home to all members of the ‘Big Five’ along with a dazzling array of other animals, including cheetahs, hyenas, giraffes, and
more than 450 species of birds. The Great Migration reaches the Mara from July to October. More than 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles, continue their perilous journey that includes dramatic river crossings at the Mara River, where hungry crocodiles lurk beneath the surface, and predators roam the banks.
Mombasa
Kenya’s oldest city and second largest after Nairobi is the gateway to the magnificent beaches of southern Kenya and the Mombasa National Marine Park. Nearby beaches such as Kilifi‚ Watamu and Diani are among the most beautiful of the East Africa coastline. The cosmopolitan Old Town is a rewarding destination for a walk.
Nairobi
Nairobi‚ the capital and largest city of Kenya‚ is a dynamic metropolis. It serves as the
political‚ economic‚ and cultural centre of Kenya‚ and it's known as the Green City in the Sun due to its pleasant climate and lush greenery. It boasts a mix of modern skyscrapers and colonial-era architecture. It is the only capital city in the world with a national park in it where wildlife roam against a backdrop of the city’s spectacular skyline.
Mwanza
Tanzania’s second city hugs the southern shore of Lake Victoria. Mwanza is nicknamed ‘Rock City’ because it’s overwhelmingly beautiful coastline features hundreds of massive boulders. Visitors can explore Africa’s largest lake on fishing trips, sunset cruises and ferry rides to island national parks. Surprising to some, is that Mwanza is a gateway to animal adventures. It is the closest city to the Serengeti with the world-famous national park’s scenic Western Corridor just a two-hour drive away.
The 'green island' of Pemba is renowned for its pristine beaches
Connecting you to Tanzania and Kenya
SERENGET I
Masai Mara
Kogatende
Fort Ikoma
Seronera
Loliondo
Ndutu Lake Manyara
Mwanza
Serengeti Mombasa
Flightlink Routes
Current Destinations (Routes)
Serengeti Airstrips
Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Seronera
Loliondo, Ndutu, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro
Nairobi Airports
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
Wilson International Airport
Masai Mara Airstrips
Angama, Cottar's, Keekorok, Kichwa Tembo, Musiara, Naboisho, Ngerende, Mara North, Ol Seki, Olare Orok, Ol Kiombo, Serena
Zanzibar Airports
Abeid Amani Karume International Airport Nungwi Airport
Zanzibar
ATR72-500
Number in fleet: Three
Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 72 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 275 knots per hour (510 km/h)
The ATR 72-500 is a modern turboprop aircraft designed for comfort and efficiency on regional routes. With spacious seating for up to 70 passengers, large overhead bins, and quiet, fuelefficient engines, it’s built to make short flights smooth and enjoyable. Its excellent performance on shorter runways also means it can take you closer to East Africa’s most unique destinations.
Tanzania HQ
3rd Floor, Room number NO 3 Oyster
Pearl Galleria, Chole Road Masaki, PO
Box 2858 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
Kenya HQ
Wilson Business Park, Wilson Airport, Langata Road, Karen, Nairobi, Kenya.
DASH-8 Q100/200
Number in fleet: One
Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 37 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 252 knots per hour (467 km/h)
Compact, reliable, and built for regional flying, the Dash 8 Q100/200 is perfect for connecting East Africa’s shorter routes. Seating around 37 passengers, it offers a comfortable cabin and the ability to operate from smaller airstrips, bringing you closer to safari parks, islands, and remote destinations. With its smooth performance and quiet ride, the Dash 8 makes every journey as enjoyable as the destination.
Cessna Grand Caravan G1000
Number in fleet: Two
Single engine turbo prop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 13 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 185 knots per hour (343 km/h)
The Cessna Grand Caravan G1000 is a true explorer’s aircraft—rugged, dependable, and perfect for East Africa’s skies. Seating up to 12 passengers, it combines modern Garmin G1000 avionics with the ability to land on shorter runways, making it ideal for safari airstrips and island getaways. Comfortable and reliable, the Grand Caravan connects you seamlessly to adventure.
Beechcraft 1900C
Number in fleet: One
Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 19 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 284 knots per hour (526 km/h)
The Beechcraft 1900C is a versatile 19-seat aircraft designed to connect travelers to destinations where larger planes can’t reach. Its compact size makes it ideal for short runways and remote airstrips, while still offering a safe, comfortable, and reliable flight. Perfect for regional hops, the 1900C gets you closer to East Africa’s hidden gems with ease.
Travel Information
Our goals and mission
About us
Established in 2001, Flightlink is a Tanzanian-owned airline, fully licensed and certified to operate in both Tanzania and Kenya. Our core objective is to facilitate convenient travel, bridging the gap between major international airlines and domestic or safari destinations within Tanzania.
Principles
At the heart of our operations are three key principles: safety, punctuality, and exceptional customer service. We are deeply committed to upholding stringent safety standards, ensuring that our passengers reach their destinations both safely and on schedule. Our focus on quality service aims to make every journey with us a memorable experience.
Our Mission
To connect tourists with the diverse wonders of East Africa, from its iconic wildlife destinations to its stunning coastal regions, through a dedicated fleet and a passion for exceeding expectations.
Our Vision
To be the premier airline in East Africa recognised for connecting tourists with the region’s most extraordinary experiences.
Safety
Flightlink's commitment to your well-being and safety is the foundation upon which we operate. We provide the highest levels of safety for our passengers and crew‚ fostering a culture of safety awareness throughout our organization.
Our commitment to safety is reflected in our strict adherence to both local and international standards . We operate in accordance with the standards set by the European Union Aviation Safety Agency (EASA)‚ the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA)‚ the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO)‚ and the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA). In addition to the above standards ‚ TCAA conducts regular inspections and audits to ensure our continued compliance.
Flightlink takes pride in its fleet of modern‚ eco-friendly ATR-72-500 turboprop aircraft. These twin-engine planes are known for their fuel efficiency and are meticulously maintained to meet the highest safety standards.
We have implemented a robust Safety Management System (SMS) that aligns with ICAO guidelines and best practices. This comprehensive system is fully approved by the TCAA. By prioritising safety‚ we aim to earn your trust and provide you with a peace of mind whenever you choose to fly with Flightlink.
Our
Promise Dreams Delivered, On time, every time.
The larger ATR72-500 has a stand up pressurized cabin, 2 pilots with 2 cabin crew
1 pc of 20kg on domestic services including Nairobi Wilson and 1 pc of 23kg on regional services.
5Kg hand baggage allowance
Free on board snacks and drinks on selected routes
Book, pay and check in online with our Flightlink App
We accept payment with all major currencies and cards
LIPA number and mobile payment accepted
Convenient and timely connections to the tourism circuits
Safe, reliable and on-time performance
Flightlink App (iOS and Android) guaranteed 5% discount
