NORTHERN LIGHTS_FW

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FOOD PHOTOGR APHY BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

LOC ATION PHOTOG R A PH Y BY ELIESA JOHNSON

BY LIZZ WINSTEAD

C E L E B R AT I O N S , N E E D W E S AY I T ? G O N O R T H .

COMFO RT FO O D A N D WA RMI N G WI NTER

PA R T Y O N I C E . F O R R I B -S T I C K I N G C O L D -W E AT H E R

M I N N E S OTA N S D O N ’ T H I B E R N AT E —T H E Y P U T T H E

W H E N T H E T E M P E R AT U R E S P L U N G E ,

basically consist of a smattering of unpleasant climate assaults equivalent to a string of surprise ice bucket challenges that happen between bouts of seasonal depression.

IF I SEEM LIKE I have chip on my shoulder, I’m not alone: Eric and Andrew Dayton, sons of Minnesota Governor Mark Dayton, are even trying to pull off an official rebrand as “the North” in an attempt to extricate our state from its Midwestern reputation. (I mean, they have hats that say “North” and everything, so it is real, y’all.) They own The Bachelor Farmer restaurant in Minneapolis, and Eric is an especially ardent promoter of Minnesota’s cold-season charms. His newest project, The Great Northern festival, invites visitors to get in on the fun with 10 days of outdoor revelry (see “Winter Wonderland,” p. 85). But from where I sit, this isn’t so much a relabeling as it is a reaffirmation of who we are.

Basically, we Minnesotans live on an activity continuum that consists of adding a hat, a flask, and the words “ice” or “snow” to our favorite activities—ice skating, snow skiing, or ice fishing. But let’s be honest, while the first two are actual things, “ice fishing” is just a made-up term for winter drinking, because “winter drinking” just sounds sad.

But to me, the biggest thing that differentiates Minnesotans from the rest is that our winters teach us early on that you cannot go it alone. We must always be ready to help. We learn to make value judgments by looking at the winter boot choice of every person we meet: We know that a good person wears a Sorel or a Columbia boot at all times in the winter. That shows they understand they may be called upon to push a car out of a snowbank or to help a stranded traveler change a tire. Anyone who wears their good shoes to get around is not only looked upon as thoughtless and unhelpful, but they are also a definite swipe-left on MNder. (OK, that would be Minnesota Tinder, and it’s not a thing, but it should be. We need a dating app where people with chapped lips and hat hair can find each other.)

In “the North” we also count down to the foods of the winter season, like rib-sticking beef pot pie (recipe p. 80); pillowy, pull-apart monkey bread drenched in honey-bourbon sauce (p. 83); and pork meatballs (p. 89). And on any given Sunday, we thaw out the frozen venison steaks we’ve been storing on the porch, put on our “Look, I’m helpful” boots, pull the Weber out of the garage, and grill up those steaks on the driveway.

Best part about being from Minnesota: Unlike the rest of the country, after we celebrate our fall harvest, we don’t hunker down for the winter—we Northerners hunker up.

Chefs Emily Marks, Paul Berglund, Diane Yang, and Gavin Kaysen, above, prepare for an outdoor banquet, top right.

Minneapolis chef Jorge Guzman, right; Roasted Beet, Ruby Red Grapefruit, and Warm Honey Salad, bottom right (p. 83).

of my fondest memories growing up in Minneapolis was spending winter afternoons dragging my red plastic toboggan behind me as I shuffled down the winding frozen creek to Peppermint Park, my favorite sledding hill. The squeal of the wind whistling between the branches and the thud of my sled bouncing on the uneven surface were nearly drowned out by the piercing sound of my snowsuit rubbing against itself with each step.

To 10-year-old me, Peppermint Park hill was Mount Everest. My friends and I would struggle to the top, loaded down with layers of long johns and corduroys and snow pants. The ascent always seemed to take an hour, followed by a race down that lasted a split second. We would peel off layers with each climb and lose a hat or a glove with each trip Minnesota’s coldweather charms include down. We kept going until supper and then began the outdoor dinner parties, long slog home in the pitch black, blowing on that bare previous spread, art on hand, trying to keep it warm. ice, below, at The Great Every Minnesotan has some version of this classic Northern festival (p. 85), and cozy fare, like winter memory, and it is a reason why we identify as Braised Chicken Thighs Northerners. Many think we are part of a Midwestern with Apples and Wild stew that has a Kansas base with some Indiana and Rice, above (p. 89), Ohio thrown in, but they would be wrong. We are our dished out by local chefs. own main dish.

As Minnesota history goes, Paul Bunyan chased Babe, his blue ox, all around the entire state, their footprints creating our 10,000 lakes. While some geologists dispute this story, no one in Minnesota disputes that come November, we anxiously watch as each and every lake develops those six inches of safe ice so we can pull out our winter gear and get out there and be all up in it.

In the North, winter is an actual season. Compare that to the unpredictable winters of the Midwest, which

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1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley

M I N N E S OTA’ S B E S T C H E F S A R E D E F I N I N G

Sea salt and pepper

NEW NORTHERN CUISINE WITH RECIPES

SAUCE

TO K E E P YO U WA R M A L L W I N T E R .

1 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

page 84 Active 1 hr 30 min; Total 5 hr Serves 6

Beef stew, enriched with red wine and plenty of winter vegetables, gets topped with flaky puff pastry at Bellecour, Gavin Kaysen’s Minneapolis restaurant (p. 85).

2 1/2 lb. flat iron steak Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. canola oil 1/4

cup unsalted butter

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 red onion, cut into 1-inch wedges 1 parsnip, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces 8 oz. rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 8 small cremini mushrooms, halved 8 garlic cloves 1 (6-inch) rosemary sprig

rosemary, and bay leaves.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 10 minutes.

Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, 4 minutes. Add wine and boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 8 minutes.

style blend: 2014 Sidebar Rhôneish

1 large egg beaten with 1 tsp. water

1. Preheat oven to 340°F. Season beef generously with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat the oil over moderately high heat. Add beef and cook, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 12 minutes. Transfer beef to a plate; drain oil from pot and discard oil.

2. Return pot to moderately high heat and add butter, carrots, onion, parsnip, celery, rutabaga, mushrooms, garlic,

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CRÊPES

8 large eggs, divided 1 cup whole milk 1 cup bread flour 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for brushing 1 tsp. kosher salt Mesclun, for serving

1. Make the filling: Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large castiron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over moderately high heat. Add mushrooms, thyme, and garlic. Transfer to preheated oven, and roast until mushrooms are tender and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper.

St. Paul chef Adam Eaton’s Cavatelli with Tuna and Broccoli Rabe (p. 90) is pure comfort.

Cured ham adds smoky depth to Pork Meatball Stew with Carrots and Pickled Mustard Greens (p. 89).

5. Ladle the hot stew into bowls and top each with a pastry round. Serve immediately.

WINE Spicy California Rhône-

2 (14- to 16-oz.) puff pastry sheets, thawed if frozen

Sea salt

4. Increase oven temperature to 400°F. Using top of a 5-inch bowl as a guide, cut 6 rounds from pastry. Transfer rounds to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Freeze until firm, about 15 minutes. Brush pastry with egg wash. Bake until pastry is golden, 10 to 12 minutes; cool.

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 qt. beef stock or lowsodium beef broth

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

3. Return the beef and any accumulated juices to pot. Add stock; bring to a boil. Cover and transfer to preheated oven.

Braise until beef is very tender, about 2 hours and 45 minutes.

Carefully remove beef from the braising liquid to a cutting board and let cool slightly. Cut beef into bite-size pieces and return to pot; season with salt and pepper.

2 dried bay leaves

1 1/2 cups dry red wine

1 cup heavy cream, divided

Wild Mushroom Crêpes with Sunny Eggs

food styling: simon andrews; prop styling: kaitlyn du ross walker

Braised Beef Pot Pie

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 20 min Serves 4 Thyme-scented roasted mushrooms make these eggtopped crêpes, from Twin Cities chef Thomas Boemer, a meal.

FILLING

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 10 oz. wild mushrooms, such as hen-of-thewoods or oyster, torn into bite-size pieces 1 tsp. finely chopped thyme, plus more for garnish 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

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2. Make the sauce: In a medium saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over moderate heat. Whisk in all-purpose flour until combined. Gradually whisk in 1/2 cup cream and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in remaining 1/2 cup cream, nutmeg, and 1/2 cup of the mushroom filling.

Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until no floury taste remains, about 7 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor or blender and puree until smooth.

Return sauce to pan and season with salt. Keep warm.

3. Make the crêpes: In a medium bowl, whisk 4 eggs, milk, bread flour, melted butter, and kosher salt until smooth.

Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet or crêpe pan over moderate heat; brush with melted butter. Add one-fourth of the batter, swirling to coat the pan evenly. Cook until lightly browned on bottom, about 2 minutes. Using a spatula, flip crêpe; reduce heat to moderately low. Arrange »

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one-fourth of the remaining mushroom filling in a ring on crêpe, and immediately crack 1 egg in center of ring, puncturing egg white so it spreads around crêpe. Cook until egg white is set and yolk is still runny, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and top with a few mesclun leaves. Drizzle with some mushroom sauce, and garnish with thyme, salt, and pepper. Repeat procedure to make 3 more crepes. Serve immediately.

WINE Brioche-scented Cham-

pagne: NV Delamotte Brut

Monkey Bread with Honey-Bourbon Sauce Active 30 min; Total 3 hr 45 min; Serves 10 to 12 Cinnamon honey butter takes this monkey bread, from Michelle Gayer’s Minneapolis bakery the Salty Tart (p. 85), over the top.

DOUGH

1 1/2 cups whole milk 1 (1/4 -oz.) envelope active dry yeast (2 1/4 tsp.)

5 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing 1/3 cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs 1 Tbsp. honey 2 1/2 tsp.

kosher salt

FILLING

1/2 cup unsalted butter 1/4 cup honey Kosher salt 1/2 cup light brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon DIPPING SAUCE

4 oz. cream cheese, softened 3 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. bourbon 3/4 tsp. grated orange zest 1/2

tsp. pure vanilla extract

1. Make the dough: In a small saucepan, heat milk until just warm but not hot (100° to 110°F). Pour 1/4 cup milk into

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bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Stir in the yeast, and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

influenced recipes, like this meal of black beans simmered with pork and served with homemade salsas.

2. Beat in remaining milk, flour, 1/2 cup butter, 1/3 cup granulated sugar, eggs, 1 tablespoon honey, and 21/2 teaspoons salt on low speed until a sticky dough forms. Switch to dough hook, and beat on medium speed until dough is smooth and pulls away from sides of bowl, about 5 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a draftfree spot until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes.

1 1/2 large white onions, whole onion cut in half 4 habanero chiles, stemmed 7 plum tomatoes, divided 1 cup packed cilantro leaves and thin stems 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, smashed Kosher salt and pepper 1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro

3. Make the filling: In a small saucepan, melt 1/2 cup butter.

Cook over moderately low heat until butter turns amber and smells nutty, about 3 minutes.

Whisk in 1/4 cup honey and 1/2 teaspoon salt; let cool slightly.

3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 1/2 lb. boneless pork shoulder roast, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces 1/4 cup pork lard

4. Punch down dough and divide it into 8 pieces. Cut each piece into 6 smaller pieces (48 total). Roll each into a ball.

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 10 cups water 1 (16-oz.) pkg. dried black beans, soaked overnight, drained

5. Stir together brown sugar, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Generously grease a 10-inch Bundt pan. Dust bottom of pan with half of sugar mixture. Add dough balls, one at a time, to bowl with remaining sugar mixture; turn to coat. Arrange balls in an even, overlapping layer in Bundt pan. Pour honey mixture on top, and cover loosely with plastic wrap; let stand in a draft-free spot until risen to the top of the pan, about 1 hour.

1 Tbsp. dried epazote Diced radish, diced avocado, finely chopped white onion, cilantro leaves, lime wedges, steamed white rice, and warm corn tortillas, for serving

1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add onion halves, cut side down, and habaneros. Cook, turning occasionally, until charred all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer onions and habaneros to a plate, and let cool slightly. Core and thinly slice 2 of the charred onion halves. Mince enough of the thinly sliced onion to equal 1/4 cup minced onion. Place sliced onion and minced onion in separate small bowls.

6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake monkey bread until golden brown, about 55 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes. Set an inverted plate on top and turn bread out onto it. Let cool 15 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce: In a bowl, whisk the cream cheese, 3 tablespoons honey, bourbon, orange zest, and vanilla until smooth. Serve the bread with the sauce.

2. Roughly chop remaining charred onion half, 1 habanero, and 6 tomatoes, and place in a blender. Add cilantro leaves and stems, olive oil, and smashed garlic cloves, and puree until smooth. Season with salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Frijoles con Puerco Active 1 hr 20 min; Total 3 hr 35 min; Serves 4 to 6 Jorge Guzman’s forthcoming taco restaurant, Piña, will feature heavily Yucatecan-

3. Finely chop remaining 3 charred habaneros and

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remaining tomato, and scrape into a medium bowl. Stir in minced charred onion, chopped cilantro, orange juice, and lime juice. Season with salt.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

4. Season pork generously with salt and pepper. Heat lard in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot.

Add pork and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer pork to a plate.

5. Add thinly sliced charred onion and thinly sliced garlic to pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Return pork and any accumulated juices to pot, and add 10 cups water, beans, and epazote. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer, partially covered, until pork and beans are very tender, about 2 hours. Season with salt, and let stand 15 minutes.

6. Using a slotted spoon, remove pork and beans from the broth to a platter. Using two forks, shred pork. Serve with salsas, radish, avocado, chopped onion, cilantro leaves, lime wedges, rice, and tortillas.

Roasted Beet, Ruby Red Grapefruit, and Warm Honey Salad page 79 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 20 min; Serves 4

Warm beets and tart grapefruits come together in this bright winter salad from Alex Roberts, chef of Alma in Minneapolis (p. 85).

2 Ruby Red grapefruits 3 medium red beets 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. honey 1 (1-inch) rosemary sprig Flaky sea salt, for garnish

1. Using a sharp knife, cut the skin and bitter white pith from grapefruits. Working over a medium bowl, cut in between the membranes to release recipes continued on p. 89

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WINTER WONDERLAND Outdoor dinner parties, followed by s’mores? Check. Urban cross-country skiing? Check. From January 26 to February 4, The Great Northern festival in Minneapolis and St. Paul distills a winter’s worth of local traditions into 10 days of revelry—and this year it wraps with the Super Bowl, hosted at Minneapolis’ U.S. Bank Stadium. So layer up and head north—and while you’re there, check out our favorite places to eat and drink like a local, for your winningest winter yet. thegreatnorthernfestival.com

The Bachelor Farmer

Chocolate soufflé, and Diane Yang’s baked goods at Bellecour.

above,

P. 80

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photography: (clockwise from top left) courtesy of bellecour, courtesy of the bachelor farmer, eliesa johnson

BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER

THE BACHELOR FARMER, Minneapolis After 7 years of business and multiple accolades, this chic restaurant is still packed every night with locals and out-oftowners. People flock to the Dayton brothers’ eatery for the hulking “groaning boards” (think the charcuterie spread of your dreams) and Scandi-esque dishes like tender pork meatballs with pickled mustard greens (get the recipe, p.

89). And don’t forget to swing by the sunny café for a flaky cranberry Danish or pop into the moody underground Marvel Bar that serves some of the best cocktails in town. 50 N. 2nd Ave., thebachelorfarmer.com BELLECOUR, Wayzata F&W Best New Chef Gavin Kaysen opened this downtown brasserie, which offers elevated French classics like a bubbling braised beef en croûte with little hats of flaky puff pastry (p. 80), as an ode to his mentor Daniel Boulud. The beautifully renovated space, formerly the home of the historic Blue Point restaurant, includes a full bakery where pastry chef Diane Yang shows off exceptional buttery inventions and homemade breads. 739 Lake St. E., bellecourrestaurant.com YOUNG JONI, Minneapolis Ann Kim’s newest place, Young Joni, is a playful mix of her Korean mother (Young) and her Minnesotan mother-in-law (Joni).

In the restaurant, you’ll find a mix of the killer wood-fired pizzas that

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mortadella, and smoked gouda sandwich and an aquavit-andcarrot mimosa, then finish the night with pheasant, spiced couscous, and a salad of roasted beets and grapefruit (p. 83) at the restaurant next door. Food coma?

Pack it in at one of the hotel’s seven airy rooms upstairs. 528 University Ave. SE, almampls.com

Kim is known for, like the Broccolini pie with Calabrian chiles, Castelvetrano olives, and almonds, and Korean-inflected dishes like the spicy clams with pork belly. 165 13th Ave. NE, youngjoni.com SALTY TART, Minneapolis Every city should be lucky enough to have a bakery like this one.

Owner Michelle Gayer, who cut her teeth in Chicago under Charlie Trotter (and co-authored his dessert cookbook), fills the cases at her midtown Minneapolis bakery every morning with pillowy coconut macaroons (“crackeroons”), rustic tarts, and a pull-apart monkey bread soaked in honey-bourbon sauce (p. 83). 920 E. Lake St., saltytart.com

SAINT DINETTE, St. Paul Walking into this Lowertown restaurant, you wouldn’t expect the spare, industrial space to serve some of the best comfort food in town. Chef Adam Eaton, a St. Paul native and La Belle Vie alum, draws from his Midwest upbringing and French technique to make familiar dishes, like his spin on tuna casserole with confited tuna and bagna cauda (p. 90) and a fried bologna sandwich worth jumping the river for. 261 E. 5th St., saintdinette.com

MARKET HOUSE COLLABORATIVE, St. Paul This multi-concept market is the newest venture from James Beard Award winner and former La Belle Vie chef-owner Tim McKee. The seafood-focused mini food hall includes a sustainable fish market, a second location of the Salty Tart, butcher shop, and McKee’s eatery Octo Fishbar, where you can choose from four different seafood towers and get a miso-spiked lobster roll served up on Michelle Gayer’s own fresh-baked rolls.

289 5th St. E., octostp.com

THE LYNHALL, Minneapolis This newly opened Lyn-Lake market is the ultimate one-stop shop. The gleaming bar serves everything from a cold brew to their “reversed Negroni,” and the counter-service café is a gorgeous still life of brown-butter tarts, open-faced sandwiches, and glossy rotisserie chickens. The homey space also houses a gleaming studio kitchen and an incubator for small food businesses. 2640 Lyndale Ave S., thelynhall.com

ALMA, Minneapolis Alex Roberts is the mastermind behind this restaurant-café-hotel triple threat. Start your morning at the all-day café with a fried egg,

GRAND CAFE, Minneapolis This 70-year-old institution just got an exciting revamp from two Best

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New Chefs, Jamie Malone and Erik Anderson. The duo kept the iconic sign and front paned windows of the cozy café and enhanced the interior’s BohemianParisian vibe with pale pinks and hand-painted antique wallpaper.

The food is classically French at first glance, but each plate, from the lush and creamy pike quenelle in spicy crayfish sauce to the bourbon-soaked baba with orange and Chantilly cream, is flawlessly executed. 3804 Grand Ave S., grandcafemn.com PENNY’S, Minneapolis Find the new outpost of this coffee shop favorite nestled in the Linden Hills neighborhood in an old brick auto shop. This is not a dash-in, dash-out kind of spot (although you can do that). The breezy, open space and the smell of buttery crêpes make you want to sit and enjoy your La Colombe coffee and contemplate what flavor of soft serve to get (and don’t skip on the house’s sprinkle-and-nut topping).

3509 W. 44th St., pennyscoffee.com THE LEXINGTON, St. Paul Go back in time to when this historic Grand Avenue landmark was a glimmering supper club for St. Paul’s elite in the postprohibition days. Now, more than 80 years later, new owners and a well-known local chef (Butcher & the Boar’s Jack Riebel) are breathing life into this velvetcushioned restaurant and jazz bar once again with Singapore Slings and new age relish trays.

1096 Grand Ave., thelexmn.com

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