Spice Trade_FW

All across the US, IndianAmerican chefs are putting fresh spins on the dishes they grew up eating. Whether New Delhi meets New York or Mumbai by way of the Mission, these are 2017’s most exciting culinary mash-ups.

PRODUCED BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER & ELYSE INAMINE

food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers. opposite: charissa fay

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS NILSSON

At Pondicheri in NYC’s NoMad neighborhood, OPPOSITE, Mumbai’s classic frankies (pictured) get a vegetarian makeover with mushrooms (p. 62).

Brass cup and bowl from Auntie Oti. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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New Yorkers have been flocking to this sprawling new all-day restaurant and bakery in the NoMad district, where you can pop in for a slice of chai pie or camp out at a communal table for a multicourse meal. Gujarat-born Anita Jaisinghani draws inspiration from all over the subcontinent, but she’s in no way tradition-bound: Dishes like chicken wings in a chickpea crust strike an American comfort food chord, and others, like quick-cooked, fresh-tasting saag paneer, reinvent classics. “Indian cooking isn’t rigid,” says the chef. “If I can make it better, why not?” 15 W. 27th St., New York City; pondichericafe.com.

Mushroom Frankies with Cilantro Chutney page 61 Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 6

This popular Mumbai wrap is similar to a kathi roll, but the roti is griddled with a little beaten egg so that it can stand up to a rich, saucy filling.

Instead of the usual chicken tikka masala, Jaisinghani stuffs hers with mushrooms, sweet potato and fresh cilantro.

CHUTNEY

1 cup full-fat yogurt ½ Granny Smith apple, cored and thinly sliced ½ cup roasted unsalted peanuts 1 serrano chile—stemmed, seeded and chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 cups chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems Kosher salt FRANKIES

1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch dice ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. canola oil or ghee (see box, p. 69) 1 tsp. cumin seeds 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 2 tsp. minced garlic 1 lb. mixed mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick

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turmeric. Add the coconut milk and cook until hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the chopped cilantro and season with salt.

Scrape the mushroom filling into a large bowl and keep warm. Clean the skillet.

1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger 1 tsp. garam masala (see box, p. 69) 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. ground turmeric ½ cup unsweetened coconut milk 1/3

4. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and season with salt and pepper. In the skillet, heat ½ teaspoon of the oil. Arrange 1 roti in the skillet and drizzle one-sixth of the beaten egg (about 2 tablespoons) over it.

Flip and cook the roti over moderate heat until the egg sets, 1 minute. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil. Repeat with the remaining oil, roti and eggs.

cup chopped cilantro, plus small sprigs for assembling Kosher salt and pepper

3 large eggs Six 8-inch roti or flour tortillas 2 cups finely shredded green cabbage

5. Arrange each roti egg side up on a platter or plates and top with some of the mushroom filling. Drizzle with some of the chutney and finish with the shredded cabbage and cilantro sprigs. Roll up the roti and serve, passing more chutney on the side.

1. Make the chutney In a blender, puree the yogurt with the apple, peanuts, serrano and lemon juice until smooth. Add the cilantro and pulse until just combined; season with salt.

Refrigerate until ready to use.

2. Make the frankies In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the sweet potato until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.

MAKE AHEAD The mushroom

filling and chutney can be refrigerated separately overnight. Gently reheat the filling before proceeding.

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat ¼ cup of the oil. Add the cumin and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and almost all of the liquid has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes.

Stir in the sweet potato, ginger, garam masala, chili powder and

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2014 Argyle Willamette Valley.

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Avocado-and-Cabbage Slaw Total 30 min; Serves 6

This crunchy cabbage slaw is tossed with a bold lime juice–and–fish sauce dressing.

Brass spoon from Set & Co.

This slaw evokes the crunch and tang of chaat, the iconic Indian snack. “There’s nothing Indian about it, yet it’s entirely Indian,” says chef Suvir Saran.

3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger 2 tsp. Sriracha 2 tsp. soy sauce 2 tsp. Asian fish sauce 1 tsp. white wine vinegar ¾ tsp. chaat masala (see box, p. 69) ¼ tsp. ground cumin Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. green and/or red cabbage, cored and finely shredded 6 scallions, light green and white parts only, thinly sliced 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved ½ cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped ¼ cup mint leaves, finely chopped 2 Hass avocados—peeled, pitted and diced, plus avocado slices for serving 1 cup roasted salted cashews, chopped, plus more for garnish Microgreens, for garnish

In a large bowl, whisk the lime juice with the honey, ginger, Sriracha, soy sauce, fish sauce, vinegar, chaat masala and cumin until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cabbage, scallions, tomatoes, cilantro, mint, diced avocados and the 1 cup of chopped cashews and toss to coat. Garnish with avocado slices, more chopped cashews and microgreens; serve.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

We can’t get enough of this salad, which tastes like the love child of a veggie-packed health bowl and chaat, India’s spicy-tangy-crunchy street snack. Leave it to New York’s Suvir Saran to come up with such a thing of beauty at his long-awaited follow-up to Devi, the first Indian restaurant in America to win a Michelin star.

Saran’s new approach is more global, with bruschetta and ceviches prepared through an Indian lens. “There were always traders coming in and out of India,” says the New Delhi native. “When it comes to authentic cuisine, it has changed almost every minute.” 60 Greenwich Ave., New York City; tapestryrestaurant.com.

“Ten years ago, Indian restaurants here were all the same,” says Mumbai native Rupam Bhagat, the creative force behind the wildly popular Indian soul food truck and restaurant Dum in San Francisco’s Mission District. “Now you’ve got young chefs cooking what they grew up eating at home.” The chef, trained at The Culinary Institute of America, is known for his superfresh, produce-driven dishes: Yogurt-marinated fried chicken comes with crisp coconut green beans, and the lassi is flavored with winter squash. “These are my family’s recipes,” says Bhagat. “I might be using a new ingredient or showcasing it in a different way, but the soul of the food is 100 percent Indian.” 3111 24th St., San Francisco; dumsf.com.

Spiced Pumpkin Lassi Total 40 min plus chilling Makes 4 drinks 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil Four 2-inch cinnamon sticks 4 whole star anise 4 cups peeled, ½-inchdiced sugar pumpkin or kabocha squash (1 lb.)

Kosher salt 1½ cups whole milk 2 cups full-fat Greek yogurt ¾ cup sugar Ground cinnamon, for garnish

1. In a large skillet, heat the oil.

Add the cinnamon sticks and star anise and cook over moderate heat until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin is lightly browned and starting to soften, 10 minutes.

Add the milk and simmer until the pumpkin is very soft and the milk has thickened slightly, 10 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and let cool briefly; discard the spices.

LASSI DOES IT Move over pumpkin-spice lattes: We’re putting sweet squash in yogurt lassis now.

2. In a blender, puree the pumpkin, milk and ½ teaspoon of salt until smooth. Transfer the blender to the refrigerator and chill until the pumpkin puree is cold, 30 minutes.

3. Add the yogurt, sugar and ½ cup of water to the blender and puree until very smooth.

For a thinner consistency, blend in more water, ¼ cup at a time. Pour the pumpkin lassi into 4 glasses, sprinkle with ground cinnamon and serve chilled.

Fried Tandoori Chicken Total 1 hr plus 24 hr marinating Serves 4 6 garlic cloves, chopped

1/3

At Dum, crispy yogurt-marinated fried chicken, OPPOSITE, is served with an array of seasonal lassis.

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying Kosher salt and pepper 6 small chicken thighs 6 small chicken drumsticks 1½ cups full-fat Greek yogurt 1½ cups chickpea flour (see Note) Chaat masala (see box, p. 69), for sprinkling Small cilantro sprigs and lime wedges, for garnish

1. In a food processor, puree the garlic with the ginger, lemon juice, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, the 2 tablespoons of oil, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper until smooth. Scrape the marinade into a large bowl, add the chicken and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.

2. Stir the yogurt into the marinade, re-cover the bowl and refrigerate for 12 more hours.

3. Preheat the oven to 250° and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a shallow bowl, mix the chickpea flour with 1 teaspoon of salt. Remove the chicken from the marinade, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Dredge the chicken in the flour, then transfer to the prepared baking sheet.

Charred Coconut Green Beans

4. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 1½ inches of oil to 325°.

Set a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Working in batches, fry the chicken until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of each piece registers 160°, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the rack, season with salt and keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining chicken.

Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 10 min Serves 4 1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut ½ jalapeño—stemmed, seeded and minced 2½ Tbsp. full-fat Greek yogurt 1½ tsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. vegetable oil

5. Sprinkle the chicken with chaat masala and transfer to a platter. Garnish with cilantro leaves and lime wedges; serve.

2 fresh curry leaves (see box, p. 69), chopped ½ tsp. brown mustard seeds

One 3-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

SERVE WITH Charred Coconut NOTE Chickpea flour can be

1 lb. green beans, trimmed

cup fresh lemon juice

found at most health food stores and on amazon.com.

2 Tbsp. chopped cilantro

2 Tbsp. ground coriander 1½ Tbsp. ground cumin 1 Tbsp. ground turmeric

Kosher salt and pepper

Green Beans (recipe follows).

1. In a medium bowl, cover the coconut with water and let stand at room temperature until softened, 45 minutes.

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Garofoli Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

2 tsp. cayenne F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Drain and transfer to a food processor. Add the jalapeño, yogurt and ginger and pulse until a coarse paste forms.

2. In a small skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil. Add the curry leaves and mustard seeds and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the seeds start to pop, about 30 seconds.

Transfer to the food processor with the coconut mixture and pulse until just combined. Season with salt and pepper.

3. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil.

Add half of the green beans, season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

Repeat with the remaining oil and green beans. Toss the charred beans with the coconut mixture and cilantro, transfer to a platter and serve.

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Bacon-Chile Naan Active 1 hr 40 min; Total 5 hr Makes 9 pieces 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk

“When I came to America, I was narrow-minded with my vision of Indian food,” says Vikram Sunderam, the chef behind DC’s acclaimed Rasika. “Now, diners are more sophisticated than ever and open to ordering beyond tikka masala and saag paneer.” At his new restaurant in DC’s Cleveland Park, he’s elevating the country’s street foods: Fried chicken farcha is scented with curry leaf and served on a pao bun, and uttapam pancakes are studded with sweet corn and chiles. “I used to be a traditional chef,” Sunderam adds. “I’ve evolved.” 3309 Connecticut Ave. NW, Washington, DC; bindaasdc.com.

3 cups all-purpose flour 2½ tsp. baking powder 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 large egg, beaten Canola oil 1 lb. bacon 7 oz. mild white cheddar, shredded (2 cups) 1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper Melted butter

At Bindaas in DC, OPPOSITE, naan is baked in a pizza oven instead of a classic tandoor.

1. In a small saucepan, gently warm the milk over low heat until it registers 110° on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix the flour with the baking powder and salt.

Whisk the egg into the warm milk and add to the bowl with the flour. Mix on medium speed until the dough starts to pull away from the side of the bowl, 3 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and knead into a ball.

Rub the dough all over with oil and transfer to a lightly oiled large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for at least 4 hours, or refrigerate overnight.

2. Preheat the oven to 375°. Set a rack over a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the bacon on the rack in a single layer. Bake until browned and crisp, about 25 minutes. Drain the bacon on paper towels and let cool completely. Finely chop and transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in the cheese and crushed red pepper. Increase the oven temperature to 500° and set 2 large cast-iron skillets on the center rack while preheating.

3. Meanwhile, divide the dough into nine 3-ounce balls and cover with a damp kitchen towel. On a lightly floured work surface, use your fingertips to press 1 ball of dough into a 5-inch round, leaving it thicker in the center (it should look like a filled ravioli). Press a scant ¼ cup of the bacon-cheddar filling into the center of the dough, then pull the edge of the dough up and over the filling to form a ball; press the seams together to seal. Place the ball seam side down and flatten gently with your palm. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the ball to form a 6-inch round. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

4. Working in batches, bake the naan in the hot skillets until slightly puffed and golden, 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Brush with melted butter and serve warm. the dough can be refrigerated separately overnight.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

reema desai

MAKE AHEAD The filling and

BETTER WITH BACON In place of the traditional paneer filling, these naan are stuffed with melty cheddar, crushed red pepper and crispy bacon.

Bowls by Janaki Larsen; brass tins from Auntie Oti.

“Our restaurant is really a love story,” says Portland, Oregon, chef Elizabeth Golay. When she met Sheila Bommakanti, she fell head over heels for her—and for her southern Indian food. The couple’s Tiffin Asha started as a food cart; now it’s a brick-and-mortar spot serving snacks like lentil doughnut holes dusted with coconut-chile fleur de sel and dosas (savory crêpes) wrapped around applewood-smoked bacon, roasted tomatoes, arugula and a fried egg, and topped with housemade dried chutneys. “I want to have fun and experiment,” says Golay, “but still pay my respects to tradition.” 1670 NE Killingsworth St., Portland, OR; tiffinasha.com.

“I don’t like fusion,” Asha Gomez says. “I call it the other F word.” Instead, the Atlanta chef sums up her Southerninflected Indian cooking as “connecting the dots.” Case in point: the cornbread with cardamom, Tellicherry black pepper biscuits and cumin-scented, jaggery-glazed apple pie (pictured below) from her new cookbook, My Two Souths. “When it comes to introducing Indian flavors,” Gomez says, “it helps to get people excited through something familiar and relatable.” 659 Auburn Ave. NE, #506, Atlanta; spicetotable.com.

Cumin-and-JaggeryGlazed Apple Pie Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 15 min plus cooling Makes one 9-inch pie CRUST

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. baking powder 2 sticks plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled 7 oz. cream cheese, cubed and chilled

Black Gunpowder Total 20 min Makes about 1 cup

¼ cup ice water FILLING

At Tiffin Asha, Golay makes a trio of south Indian dried chutneys known as gunpowders, or pudi. This mild black seeded one is delicious over rice.

6 Granny Smith apples— peeled, cored and cut into 1-inch-thick wedges ½ cup finely grated jaggery (see box, below)

½ cup black sesame seeds

RED GUNPOWDER Packed with spicy árbol chiles, this fiery blend is made for sprinkling over your morning eggs. foodandwine.com/ redgunpowder.

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp. whole urad dal (see Note)

1 tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. cumin seeds

½ tsp. black peppercorns

GLAZE

½ tsp. brown mustard seeds

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

½ tsp. cumin seeds

1 tsp. cumin seeds

½ tsp. nigella seeds

1/3

1 Tbsp. poppy seeds

1. Make the crust In a food processor, pulse the 3 cups of flour with the salt and baking powder until combined. Add the butter and cream cheese and pulse to form coarse crumbs. With the machine on, drizzle in the water until the

1 tsp. kosher salt

1. In a medium skillet, toast the sesame seeds over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a small bowl.

WHITE GUNPOWDER This nutty, almost cheesy blend of three kinds of dal is fantastic tossed with popcorn. foodandwine.com/ whitegunpowder.

2. In the skillet, toast the dal over moderate heat, shaking the pan, until lightly browned, 2 minutes. Add the peppercorns and the mustard, cumin and nigella seeds and toast until the seeds start to pop, 2 minutes. Add the poppy seeds and toast for 30 seconds. Transfer the contents of the skillet to a food processor, add the salt and pulse until finely ground. Add the sesame seeds and pulse until incorporated. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.

10 ESSENTIAL PANTRY STAPLES Chitra Agrawal, owner of the popular Indian pickle company Brooklyn Delhi (brooklyndelhi.com), shares her must-have ingredients. You can also order many of them from kalustyans.com.

TAMARIND PASTE This fruit puree adds a tangy

note to stews and chutneys.

JAGGERY An unrefined sweetener made

with solidified sugar cane juice, which tastes like a mild molasses.

ASAFOETIDA The tantalizing, oniony aroma of

3. On a lightly floured work surface and using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out each piece of dough to a 14-inch round, about 1/8 inch thick. Ease 1 dough round into a 9-inch cast-iron skillet or deep-dish pie plate.

Scrape the filling into the skillet and top with the second dough round. Press the edges of the dough together, then trim the overhang to about 1 inch, fold it under itself and crimp decoratively. Cut 4 slits in the top of the pie and bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely.

4. Meanwhile, make the glaze In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the cumin and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the jaggery and 2 tablespoons of water and cook until the jaggery dissolves and the mixture is slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Brush some of the glaze over the pie and serve, passing the remaining glaze at the table.

GARAM MASALA Every family has a different

recipe for this spice mix. Agrawal’s includes black pepper, cloves, black cardamom, star anise and more.

FRESH CURRY LEAVES These dark-green leaves

impart a citrusy flavor to dishes.

FENUGREEK LEAVES The tiny dried leaves have

CHAAT MASALA A tart North Indian spice blend

GHEE Clarified butter, which has a high smoke

of dry mango powder, salt, pepper, cumin, dried chiles and asafoetida.

and toor) used for soups and pudi (opposite).

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. Make the filling Preheat the oven to 350°. In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients.

this pungent, plant-based powder is unlocked when it’s fried in oil.

DAL A variety of dried lentils (like urad, chana

NOTE Urad dal is a tiny, skin-on

black lentil. Find it at kalustyans .com and amazon.com.

cup finely grated jaggery

dough starts to come together.

Transfer to a work surface, gather any crumbs and press into a ball. Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces and pat into disks. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, 1 hour.

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a subtle flavor reminiscent of fennel or celery. point, is the go-to cooking fat.

INDIAN PICKLES Tomato, green mango

and citrus are preserved in a spice brine for seasoning dishes.

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Pork Ribs Vindaloo The inspiration for Manish Mehrotra’s hyper-creative Manhattan version of his New Delhi restaurant (the only Indian restaurant recognized by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) is New York’s culinary diversity. “When you’re in New York, you try a lot of things,” says the chef, who stuffs his airy kulcha flatbreads with pastrami and serves his fried squid with “everything”-spiced chutney. “It’s not about being authentic. It’s all about flavor.” 123 W. 56th St., New York City; indianaccent.com.

Crispy Squid with Everything Chutney

CHUTNEY

Total 1 hr; Serves 4

¼ cup ketchup

“I wanted to make a blend of multiple chutneys that are intrinsic to India,” says Mehrotra.

Serve with fries, on burgers or as a dip for fried squid.

2½ Tbsp. tomato pickle (see box, p. 69)

Chaat masala (see box, p. 69) and thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

½ cup mayonnaise

1. Make the chutney In a blender, puree all of the ingredients until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium bowl; discard the solids. Season the chutney with salt and pepper.

1½ Tbsp. chopped cilantro 1½ Tbsp. chopped mint 1½ Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

2. Make the squid In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 3 inches of oil to 350°. In a large bowl, whisk the tempura flour and ice water until smooth.

Spread the rice flour in a shallow bowl. Working in 3 batches, dip the squid in the tempura batter, then dredge in the rice flour and shake off any excess. Add the squid to the hot oil and fry until golden and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the squid to a paper towel–lined plate to drain; season with salt.

Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with chaat masala and scallions. Serve with the chutney.

1½ Tbsp. chopped garlic 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. tamarind paste (see box, p. 69) 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. finely grated jaggery (see box, p. 69) Kosher salt and pepper SQUID

Canola oil, for frying 1½ cups tempura flour (see Note) 1 cup ice water 1 cup white rice flour (see Note) ¾ lb. cleaned squid, bodies cut into ½-inch-thick rings and tentacles left whole

NOTE Tempura and white rice

flours can be found at Whole Foods and on amazon.com.

Kosher salt

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 30 min Serves 4 to 6

DOUBLE DUTY These fall-off-thebone ribs make an irresistible taco filling. Shred leftover meat and toss with sauce before reheating.

These juicy ribs are chef Floyd Cardoz’s ode to his mother’s pork vindaloo. “I wanted to make something that honored the dish I grew up eating, but that is comfortable for our diners at Paowalla. There’s nothing more American than ribs.”

Serve these ribs with crusty bread or basmati rice to mop up every bit of the rich sauce.

Two 2-lb. racks St. Louis– cut pork ribs, membranes removed and each rack halved Kosher salt and pepper 2 dried New Mexico chiles, stemmed and broken into large pieces

Bowl from CB2; brass fork from ABC Carpet & Home.

2 Tbsp. cumin seeds 3 whole cloves One 1-inch cinnamon stick 2 Tbsp. ancho chile powder 1 tsp. ground turmeric

paowalla

½ tsp. cayenne 1/3

cup red wine vinegar

3 Tbsp. canola oil 1 large red onion, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic 1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger 1 qt. chicken stock or lowsodium broth ¼ cup silver tequila 3 Tbsp. finely grated jaggery (see box, p. 69) Crusty bread or steamed basmati rice, for serving

1. Season the ribs with salt and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Jehangir Mehta, a protégé of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, describes the vegetable-charged menu at his new restaurant in downtown Manhattan as: “A white dude in an Indian sari. The core is American and French. But the adornment is Indian and Persian.” Mumbai-born, of Parsi descent, Mehta explores the flavorful threads that connect those cuisines. Take his kale salad (p. 94), seasoned with cilantro and topped with crispy chickpeas and slivers of spiced fennel. “I believe that we’re at a turning point,” he says. “For the next generation, it will be so normal to see a good Indian restaurant every 15 blocks.” 190 Church St., New York City; graffitiearthny.com.

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2. Meanwhile, in a spice grinder, pulse the dried chiles with the cumin seeds, cloves and cinnamon stick until finely ground. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and stir in the chile powder, turmeric, cayenne, 3 tablespoons of the vinegar and ½ tablespoon of pepper until a paste forms. recipe continues on p. 94

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

SMART SWAP If you can’t find paneer, the fresh cheese that’s cubed and simmered in saag, use halloumi instead.

When Floyd Cardoz opened Tabla in New York in 1998, it was a game changer: Before then, no one was offering inventive, Indian-inspired cooking in a fine-dining setting.

Last year, the pioneering chef opened Paowalla in Soho, focusing more on regional Indian specialties, with his creative touches. He makes his vindaloo with pork ribs instead of shoulder and his pakoras with green-market shishitos.

Another focus is the breads he grew up eating during family visits to Portuguese-inflected Goa; he makes them in the restaurant’s wood-burning oven. “It’s my life’s goal to show people how great this food can be,” says Cardoz. 195 Spring St., New York City; paowalla.com.