Ed Lee Burgers_FW

CHEF WISDOM

The Burger Manifesto

Soft, salted pretzel roll

WHEN YOU OPEN A RESTAURANT DEVOTED TO BURGERS AND WHISKEY, IT’S CLEAR YOU TAKE BOTH PRETTY SERIOUSLY. CHEF EDWARD LEE SHARES HIS COMMANDMENTS FOR PAIRING TWO OF HIS FAVORITE THINGS AT LOUISVILLE’S WHISKEY DRY.

Crunchy pork rinds

Funky kimchi

Caramelized pork patty

Tangy buttermilk sauce spiked with fish sauce

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photographs: john kernick; food stylist: simon andrews

T

Fresh cilantro

O ANSWER THE CONTROVERSIAL

question of what defines the perfect burger, it’s helpful to consider what a burger is not: It’s not just a sandwich.

A burger is a patty of ground meat— often minced or chopped—that offers little resistance when you take a bite. The meat is a high-quality, umami-rich protein, usually beef but not exclusively.

Exhibit A: the decadent pork burger to the left (recipe p. 38), topped with kimchi and crunchy pork rinds. The patty is cooked only enough for the fat to render and melt onto the bun, which should be a squishy, yeast-risen variety with enough structure to hold the contents together throughout multiple bites, but soft enough to yield to your grip.

Purists will tell you that the perfect burger contains nothing but meat and cheese, but I beg to differ. That rich disk of umami needs to be offset with tart, fermented toppings, whether that’s a pickle or a vinegary slaw or ketchup (I play around with different versions, like the carrot ketchup that tops the veggie burger on page 40). A raw vegetable is suggested but not necessary; a sliver of lettuce or a thin slice of onion will suffice.

Also, the sequence of stacking is critical. If you don’t believe me, put your lettuce and tomato under your patty and see if it tastes as good. (It doesn’t.)

Last, as with any good meal, what you drink is crucial. When it comes to burgers, I will never argue against a Coke or a crisp beer, but if you want to try the perfect pairing, reach for whiskey. Whiskey is way more complex than beer and more aggressive than wine, which is exactly what an intense burger needs. Many of its flavors—smokiness, caramelized notes, leathery aromas, even dark fruits—mirror a good burger. The whiskey you choose depends on the flavors of the burger: sweet goes with bourbon; spicy and funky go with Scotch; and mild goes with balanced blends like Irish whiskey.

And while this is more of an art than a science, there are rules to follow to achieve burger nirvana and pairing perfection. Turn the page for my burger and whiskey commandments.

Burger & Whiskey Pairings

STACK ’EM HIGH

“Anyone who loves a good burger has a soft spot for a Big Mac,” says Lee. This ode to the fast-food classic is all about the layering, with a fried green tomato filling in for the middle bun. PAIR WITH ultrasmooth Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Scotch Whisky from Speyside.

Fried Green Tomato Double Cheeseburgers Total 1 hr; Serves 4

½ lb. iceberg lettuce, finely shredded (4 cups)

SAUCE

FRIED GREEN TOMATO

¼ cup mayonnaise

½ cup all-purpose flour

1½ Tbsp. Sriracha

1 cup panko

1 Tbsp. ketchup

Kosher salt and pepper

½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce

½ cup buttermilk

¼ tsp. garlic powder

1 large egg

SLAW

1/3 cup canola oil

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

1 large unripe green tomato, cut into 4 thick slices

1 small garlic clove, finely grated ½ celery rib, finely grated 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. Asian fish sauce ½ tsp. Dijon mustard

1. Make the sauce In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients until smooth.

Kosher salt and pepper

2. Make the slaw In a medium bowl, whisk the vinegar with the garlic, celery, sesame seeds, sugar, fish sauce and mustard.

Season with salt and pepper.

Just before serving, toss with the lettuce.

3. Prepare the green tomato Spread the flour and panko in separate shallow bowls and season each with salt and pepper. In another shallow bowl, whisk the buttermilk and egg and season with salt and pepper. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Dredge the tomato slices in the flour, shaking off the excess. Dip in the buttermilk-egg mixture, then dredge in the panko. Fry the tomato slices over moderate heat, turning once, until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain, then season with salt.

BURGERS

1½ lbs. ground chuck, 20% fat Kosher salt and pepper 1 Tbsp. canola oil 8 slices of American cheese 4 sesame seed buns, split and toasted

4. Make the burgers Form the beef into eight 1/8-inch-thick patties and season with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet set on the grate of a preheated grill or on the stovetop, heat the oil. Working in 2 batches, cook the burgers over moderate heat until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip, top each with a slice of cheese and cook, covered, until the burgers are browned and the cheese is melted, about 1 minute longer.

Transfer to a work surface and repeat with the remaining 4 patties and cheese slices.

For the best sear, Lee sets a skillet on the grill.

5. Spread the sauce on the cut sides of the buns. Place a burger on each bottom bun. Top with a fried green tomato slice, another burger and the slaw.

Close the burgers and serve.

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GET FUNKY

“Pork and kimchi are a classic Korean pairing,” says Lee. Turns out, they also make a mean burger. PAIR WITH smoky Japanese Nikka Taketsuru 17 Year Old Pure Malt Whisky to play off the fermented notes.

Kimchi Pork Burgers page 36 Total 30 min; Serves 4 ½ cup buttermilk ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. sour cream 1 tsp. anchovy paste 1 tsp. chopped cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish ½ tsp. Asian fish sauce ½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 small garlic clove, grated Kosher salt and pepper 1½ lbs. ground pork 1 Tbsp. canola oil 4 slices of Havarti cheese 4 pretzel rolls, split and toasted Chopped kimchi and pork rinds, for garnish

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the first 8 ingredients. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

Form the pork into four ¾-inchthick patties; season with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet set on the grate of a preheated grill or on the stovetop, heat the oil. Cook the burgers over moderate heat, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip, top each with a slice of cheese and cook, covered, until the burgers are just cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a work surface.

2. Spread the sauce on the cut sides of the rolls. Place a burger on each roll bottom and top with some of the kimchi, pork rinds and cilantro sprigs. Close the burgers and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

bottles from left: courtesy of monkey shoulder; courtesy of nikka

Chef Wisdom

Chef Wisdom

Burger & Whiskey Pairings

RETHINK THE VEGETABLES

“I hate faux veggie burgers with a passion,” says Lee. Instead of trying to replicate the look and feel of meat, he layers roasted vegetables with melty cheese. PAIR WITH a delicate Irish whiskey, like Bushmills Black Bush.

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 1 medium eggplant, cut into eight ½-inch-thick slices ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium zucchini, sliced on a mandoline 1/8 inch thick Kosher salt and pepper 1 large red beet, peeled and sliced on a mandoline 1/8 inch thick 1 medium sweet potato, peeled and sliced on a mandoline 1/8 inch thick 4 medium carrots, thinly sliced ½ small onion, finely chopped 2 dried apricots, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped ¼ cup dry white wine 3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce 1½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce

This sweet, gingery ketchup is made with carrots.

½ tsp. soy sauce ½ tsp. ground ginger ¼ tsp. ground fennel 8 slices of Muenster cheese 4 poppy seed buns, split and toasted Red-leaf romaine lettuce leaves or mixed baby greens and sliced dill pickles, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 400° and line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with foil. On opposite ends of 1 baking sheet, separately toss the eggplant with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and the zucchini with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Season the eggplant and zucchini with salt and pepper and spread each vegetable in a single layer.

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On opposite ends of the second baking sheet, separately toss the beet and the sweet potato each with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and spread in a single layer. Roast all of the vegetables until tender, about 10 minutes for the zucchini and about 25 minutes for the remaining vegetables; rotate the baking sheets halfway through baking.

Let the vegetables cool slightly.

Keep the oven on.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the carrots, onion, apricots and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 5 minutes.

Add the wine and ¾ cup of water and simmer over moderately low heat until the carrots are very tender, 15 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar, fish sauce, Worcestershire, soy sauce, ground ginger and fennel.

Scrape into a blender and let cool slightly. Puree until very smooth, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time to loosen the sauce, if necessary. Season the carrot ketchup with salt and pepper.

3. On a large rimmed baking sheet lined with foil, make 4 stacks of 2 eggplant slices.

Top each with 1 cheese slice, 4 to 6 slices each of the sweet potato and beet, the remaining cheese and 4 to 6 zucchini slices. Transfer to the oven and bake for 5 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the veggie burgers are heated through.

4. Place the burgers on the bottom buns and top with lettuce and pickles. Spread the carrot ketchup on the top buns, close the burgers and serve.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

courtesy of bushmills

Roasted Veggie Burgers with Carrot Ketchup

Chef Wisdom

Burger & Whiskey Pairings

JUST ADD BACON

CRISP IT UP

“This is like a bacon cheeseburger from heaven,” says Lee, who plays up the bacon flavor, turning it into a sweet, umami-rich jam seasoned with coffee, apple cider vinegar and soy sauce. PAIR WITH Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon from Kentucky, an over-the-top, deliciously smoky bourbon that’s just as complex as this burger.

Chicken Burgers with Crispy Cheddar Cheese Active 25 min; Total 40 min Serves 4 1½ lbs. ground chicken, preferably a blend of white and dark meat Kosher salt and pepper ½ cup mayonnaise ½ tsp. Asian fish sauce ½ tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. Old Bay Seasoning 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. canola oil Four ½-inch-thick slices of sharp white cheddar 4 potato rolls, split and toasted Boston lettuce leaves, sliced pickled jalapeños and hot pepper jelly, for serving

1. Form the chicken into four ¾-inch-thick patties and season with salt and pepper.

Transfer to a plate and refrigerate until firm, 30 minutes.

2. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the fish sauce and lemon juice until smooth.

3. Sprinkle both sides of the patties with the Old Bay. In a large cast-iron skillet set on the grate of a preheated grill or on the stovetop, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Cook the burgers, covered, over moderate heat, flipping once, until browned and just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and let rest for 5 minutes.

Pimento Cheeseburgers with Bacon Jam

4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil. Arrange the cheese slices 2 inches apart in the skillet and cook over moderate heat until melted in the middle and browned and crisp at the edges, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the cheese rest in the skillet for 1 minute. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain.

1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

5. Spread some of the mayo on each roll bottom and place a burger on top. Layer with a slice of crispy cheese and some lettuce and pickled jalapeños. Spread the pepper jelly on the roll tops, close the burgers and serve.

1/3 cup mayonnaise

Total 45 min; Serves 4 BACON JAM

¼ lb. slab bacon, finely diced (1/3 cup) ½ small onion, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. brewed coffee 1½ Tbsp. soy sauce

1 Tbsp. brown sugar 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar Kosher salt and pepper PIMENTO CHEESE

6 oz. sharp cheddar, shredded (1½ cups) 1 oz. cream cheese (2 Tbsp.), at room temperature

¼ cup drained and chopped jarred pimientos 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 1 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) 1/4 tsp. Worcestershire sauce ¼ tsp. pepper BURGERS

1½ lbs. ground chuck, preferably 20% fat Kosher salt and pepper 1 Tbsp. canola oil 4 potato rolls, split and toasted Sliced dill pickles and thinly sliced scallions, for serving

Lee dusts these chicken patties with Old Bay before cooking to char the spices.

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1. Make the bacon jam In a medium skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat from the skillet. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Return the bacon to the skillet along with the coffee, soy sauce, vinegar and both sugars. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the liquid is reduced and the jam is thick and glossy, about 5 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper.

Scrape the bacon jam into a small bowl and let cool to room temperature.

2. Meanwhile, make the pimento cheese In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients.

3. Make the burgers Form the beef into four ¾-inch-thick patties and season with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet set on the grate of a preheated grill or on the stovetop, heat the oil. Cook the burgers over moderate heat until browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook, covered, until browned and medium-rare, about 3 minutes.

Transfer to a work surface and let rest for 5 minutes.

4. Place a burger on each roll bottom. Top with some of the pimento cheese, bacon jam, sliced pickles and scallions.

Close the burgers and serve.

MAKE AHEAD The spreads can

be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

bottles from left: courtesy of rittenhouse; courtesy of russell’s

The star of this juicy chicken burger is the crunchy, frico-like disk of cheddar cheese sandwiched inside. “It’s like that perfect bite of cheese that drips down the side and crisps on the grill,” says Lee. PAIR WITH Rittenhouse Rye, which is robust enough to stand up to the hot pepper jelly and jalapeños, but won’t overpower the chicken.