Cheese Fondue_FW

FOOD INTELLIGENCE

BIG IDEAS THE GASTRONAUT FILES

Melt with You Still as cozy and crowd-pleasing as ever, a wine-spiked fondue can heat up any party. Cheese whiz Liz Thorpe updates a classic.

I had a real Swiss fondue, I thought it was made with that deli cheese with the holes,” says Liz Thorpe, author of the upcoming Book of Cheese and former VP of Murray’s in Manhattan.

Fast-forward 15 years, and she can wax poetic on the meltability of every classic fondue fromage, from Gruyère to Comté. But the New York–based guru is no stickler for tradition.“Fondue is flexible,” she says, “and you get more complex flavors when you blend.”

(She saves cheese-plate leftovers so she has lots of varieties to play with.)

Master the recipe on the next page, then mix and match the wines and cheeses until you find your favorite combo. —JULIA HEFFELFINGER

photographs: david malosh; food stylist: simon andrews; prop stylist: brooke deonarine

“THE FIRST TIME

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Big Ideas

The Gastronaut Files

Big Ideas

The Gastronaut Files

Fail-Proof Cheese Fondue Total: 15 min; Serves 4 To achieve that ideal silky-smooth fondue texture (there’s nothing sexy about clumping or separating), you need to add a bit of starch. Instead of using a roux—the traditional French thickener made with flour and butter—as a binder, Thorpe uses cornstarch. “It’s simple and does the job with no residual flavor, letting the focus be on the cheese,” she says.

1½ Tbsp. cornstarch

1 garlic clove, halved

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 lb. shredded or cubed cheese (see box below)

1 cup dry white wine (see box below)

1 Tbsp. Kirsch or Cognac (optional)

Roasted seasonal vegetables

Go for a Dip

Root vegetable or potato chips

When preparing your spread, keep two things in mind: balance and texture.

Pick sturdy foods that contrast yet complement the flavor of the cheese without overwhelming it with too much tang or spice.

1. In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the wine.

2. Rub the inside of a small enameled cast-iron casserole or saucepan with the cut garlic clove. Add the remaining ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons of wine and bring to a simmer over moderate heat.

Blanched asparagus or Broccolini

3. Slowly whisk in the cornstarch mixture and simmer, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to moderately low and add the cheese in handfuls, whisking constantly, until each addition is melted before adding more and the fondue is smooth, about 5 minutes. Stir in the Kirsch or Cognac, if using. Serve immediately in the casserole or a warm fondue pot (see Note).

The Essentials

1. Cheese Avoid grainy varieties like Parmesan and aged cheddar.

Fresh ones (chèvre, feta) aren’t good melters either.

2. Starch To avoid clumping and breaking, you need a starch to bind the cheese and wine. Use cornstarch or a roux.

SERVE WITH Pieces of crusty bread, blanched or roasted vegeta-

3. Acid This is essential for smooth melting. Traditionally, the acid comes in the form of wine, but a touch of lemon juice acts as a safety net and balances the fatty cheese with a bright, fresh flavor.

bles, endive spears, thinly sliced apple, dried apricots, dates, root vegetable chips, sliced salumi, pickles.

NOTE If using a fondue pot for serving, fill it with hot water and

4. Wine Any tasty dry white will do, but since you’re adding lemon juice, try experimenting with less acidic options like beer, apple cider or sweet wine.

let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Drain and dry thoroughly immediately before adding the cheese fondue.

MAKE AHEAD The fondue can be refrigerated overnight and

5. Patience Give your cheese time to melt by maintaining a low, steady heat. If your fondue starts to boil, it will separate.

reheated gently on the stove over very low heat.

Three Fondues We Love The Classic

The Crowd-Pleaser

The Stinker

You’ll find this old-school version, with intense, nutty Alpine cheeses, served near the fire at Swiss ski chalets. The ripe red fruitiness of the Kirsch is especially good here. It’s a classic for a reason.

This super-buttery, creamy variation is like having a grilled cheese sandwich without the bread. Made with very meltable everyday cheeses, this is our choice for game day.

THE CHEESE 1 lb. shredded mixed Alpine cheeses, such as Gruyère, Emmental, Comté and Challerhocker.

THE CHEESE 1 lb. shredded mixed young cow-milk cheeses, such as Gouda, Havarti, Asiago Fresco, Fontina, Babybel and raclette.

Thorpe’s favorite fondue is made with Taleggio, a melty, brine-washed Italian cheese. Including its rind enhances the funkiness and adds an almost bacony flavor.

Scoop soft Époisses right out of the rind and into the pot.

THE WINE A light Pinot Grigio. This pear-scented,

THE WINE Rich, oaky Chardonnay. The round,

affordable wine lets the flavor of the cheese and Kirsch shine through, and a glass will complement the finished dish, too.

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buttery vanilla notes work perfectly with the mild cheese; pour the same wine when you serve the fondue. If you’re not a fan of oaked wines, uses an unoaked bottle.

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THE CHEESE 1 lb. mixed brine-washed cheeses, such as Taleggio (cubed with the rind) and Époisses.

THE WINE A floral, dry Riesling. The aromatic

wine will offset the salty funkiness of the cheese, plus it’s delicious to drink alongside.

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Quick-Pickled Fennel

Active: 15 min; Total: 40 min Makes about 1 qt

Pack 1 trimmed, sliced large fennel bulb into a heatproof 1-qt. jar. In a saucepan, boil 1 cup white wine vinegar, 1 cup water, ¼ cup sugar and 2 Tbsp. kosher salt until the sugar is dissolved. Pour the hot brine over the fennel and let cool slightly. Cover and refrigerate until almost chilled, 20 minutes. Drain.

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Croutons (crostini or breadsticks work great, too).

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Dried fruits like dates or apricots, or fresh slices of apple A P R I L 2017