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in Denmark, smørrebrød was considered the workingman’s lunch,” says chef Claus Meyer, cofounder of Copenhagen’s iconic New Nordic restaurant Noma. “Every kid’s lunchbox had an open-face sandwich topped with pickled herring or sliced hard-boiled eggs in it.” At his Great Northern Food Hall in New York City’s Grand Central Terminal, Meyer gives workaday smørrebrød a decidedly luxurious upgrade. His tangy housemade rye serves as a perfect canvas for dozens of creative varieties. Our favorites? Smoked salmon with horseradish skyr, apple and fennel, and sliced potatoes with dill mayo, pickled onions and petite potato chips (both recipes are on p. 95). “It’s all about the contrasts and building a balanced bite,” Meyer says. “Plus, we try to make them pretty.” 89 E. 42nd St.; greatnorthernfood.com.
STILL HUNGRY?
Want to make smørrebrød at home? Get Claus Meyer’s rye bread recipe at foodandwine.com/ openrye.
!JULIA HEFFELFINGER
J A N UA R Y 2017
96
F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E
photograph: marcus nilsson; food stylist: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers. board by deborah ehrlich from the primary essentials
“WHEN I WAS GROWING UP