Candy Crush_FW

THE GASTRONAUT FILES

Candy Crush MAKING NEXT-LEVEL HOLIDAY TREATS LIKE MARSHMALLOWS, LOLLIPOPS AND CARAMELS IS EASIER THAN YOU THINK. JUST FOLLOW OUR STEP-BY-STEP PRO TIPS FOR SWEET SUCCESS.

“CANDY IS MAGIC,” SAYS JAMI CURL, the mastermind behind Quin, the

cult sweets shop in Portland, Oregon. “I remember making my first lollipop and holding it up to the light and thinking, I’m a wizard!” she adds.

At Quin, Curl gives classic favorites an upgrade by making them with natural ingredients—lollipops are flecked with citrus zest; marshmallows, with real vanilla bean. But more than magic, making candy is all about precision: Follow the recipes on these pages and you can’t go wrong. Wrapped in cellophane, they make the sweetest—and most thoughtful—holiday gifts, Curl says. “It’s a big deal when you give someone candy that you have made yourself.” 1022 W. Burnside St.; quincandy.com. —JULIA HEFFELFINGER

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photographs: david malosh; food stylist: hadas smirnoff; style editor: suzie myers

These pillowy vanilla marshmallows are scented with pure peppermint.

The Gastronaut Files

Candy

Citrus Lollipops

Active: 40 min; Total: 1 hr 30 min; Makes 30

Canola oil

Thirty 4-inch lollipop sticks

1. Lightly grease thirty 1½-inch plastic or silicone lollipop molds with canola oil. Place a lollipop stick in each indentation, with ¾ inch of the stick inside the round mold. Alternatively, line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat.

134g. (1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp.) light corn syrup 200g. (1 cup) sugar 75g. (¼ cup plus 4 tsp.) water

7g. (1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.) finely grated lemon, lime, tangerine or grapefruit zest

2g. (½ tsp.) citric acid

2 to 3 drops of natural food coloring, plus more as needed

5-inch squares of cellophane and twist ties, for wrapping

2. In a small saucepan, bring the corn syrup, sugar and water to a boil. Do not stir. Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 300° on a candy thermometer, 7 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir

in the citrus zest, citric acid and food coloring. Spoon some of the syrup onto a white plate to check the color. Add more food coloring if needed.

3. Working quickly, spoon 1 teaspoon of the syrup into each mold. Alternatively, spoon teaspoonfuls of the syrup onto the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart, and place a stick in each lollipop, turning it to cover with syrup. Let the lollipops harden at room temperature for 30 minutes. Wrap in cellophane and secure with a twist tie.

Perfect candy is about being exact: Use a scale to weigh out ingredients in grams.

TIP SHEET TEMP CHECK

LET IT BE

Be careful not to let the lollipop syrup brown—you want it to be clear before adding the zest and food coloring.

Stirring sugar will cause crystallization.

For a crystal-clear lollipop, let the syrup cook undisturbed.

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FIT THE MOLD

When filling candy molds, less is always better. Start with a small teaspoonful of syrup and add more if needed.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

The Gastronaut Files

Candy

Vanilla-Mint Marshmallows Total: 1 hr plus 3 hr setting; Makes about 50

Canola oil

98g. (¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp.) light corn syrup 12g. (1 Tbsp.) pure peppermint extract

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped

57g. (20 sheets) silver leaf gelatin (see Note) 108g. (1/3 cup plus 2 Tbsp.) ice water 6 00g. (3 cups) granulated sugar 255g. (1 cup plus 1 Tbsp.) water

15 drops natural red food coloring

114g. (1 cup plus 1 Tbsp.) confectioners’ sugar 114g. (1 cup) cornstarch

1. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan with canola oil. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the corn syrup with the peppermint extract and vanilla seeds at low speed until combined.

Reserve the vanilla bean pod for another use.

candy dish by lobmeyr from tableart

2. In a heatproof medium bowl, cover the gelatin sheets with the ice water and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is evenly moistened and all of the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 inches of water to a simmer. Set the bowl with the gelatin over the simmering water and cook, stirring once or twice, until melted, about 5 minutes. Do not let the bowl touch the water. Carefully remove the saucepan from the heat.

3. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil. Cook, without stirring, until the sugar syrup registers 225° on a candy thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes.

Use a wet pastry brush to wash down the side of the pan.

4. With the stand mixer at low speed, slowly stream the hot sugar syrup into the corn syrup.

Add the warm gelatin and continue beating until slightly thickened and opaque, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to moderately high and beat until the marshmallow is thick and glossy and registers 105°, about 12 minutes.

5. Lightly grease a rubber spatula. Scatter the food coloring over the marshmallow, then, using the spatula, quickly scrape the marshmallow into the prepared pan, swirling the food coloring as you go. Let stand at room temperature until set, at least 3 hours or overnight.

6. Sift the confectioners’ sugar and cornstarch into a shallow bowl. Invert the marshmallows onto a work surface and cut into 2-inch squares. Toss in the sugar mixture, shaking off any excess, then serve.

NOTE Silver leaf gelatin is

available at most baking supply shops and on amazon.com.

MAKE AHEAD The vanilla-mint

marshmallows can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

TIP SHEET DON’T SPLASH

SOAK IT UP

Begin mixing your hot marshmallow base at low speed and gradually increase to cool it down and add air.

For marshmallows that are smooth, make sure each leaf of gelatin is evenly moistened.

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MASTER THE MIX

For pretty swirls that are bright and distinct, be sure not to overmix the food coloring.

D E C E M B E R 2016

The Gastronaut Files

Candy

Chai Caramels with Salted Pepitas Total: 1 hr plus overnight setting; Makes about 115

3 00g. (2 sticks plus 5 Tbsp.) room-temperature unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, plus more for greasing 235g. (1 cup) heavy cream

3 chai tea bags (8g.)

18g. (1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp.) pure vanilla extract

9g. (1 Tbsp.) kosher salt

4 38g. (1¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp.) light corn syrup 8 00g. (4 cups) sugar 100g. (¾ cup) roasted salted pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)

5-inch squares of cellophane or wax paper, for wrapping

1. Lightly butter a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving a 1-inch overhang on all 4 sides.

2. In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil; remove from the heat. Add the tea bags, cover and let stand for 12 minutes. Gently squeeze the tea bags to release any cream, then discard. Stir in the vanilla and salt; keep warm.

3. In a medium, heavybottomed saucepan, cook the corn syrup over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until it begins to bubble, 2 minutes. Sprinkle one-third of the sugar over the corn syrup and, using a small heatproof spatula, poke the sugar into the hot syrup until incorporated. Do not stir.

Repeat with the remaining sugar in 2 batches, using a wet pastry brush to wash down any crystals on the side of the pan. Continue cooking over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until a dark amber caramel forms and the temperature reaches 330° on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes.

4. Remove the saucepan from the heat and gradually add the warm cream, whisking constantly, until incorporated.

Add the 300 grams of butter in 2 batches, whisking until melted before adding more.

Continue whisking the caramel vigorously until it is glossy and registers 190° on a candy thermometer, about 5 minutes.

Fold in the pepitas.

5. Scrape the caramel into the prepared pan, then gently tap it on a work surface to release any air bubbles. Let stand at room temperature for at least 3 hours, cover loosely with foil and let stand overnight.

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HUNGRY FOR MORE?

From molds to Microplanes, find our comprehensive list of candy equipment at foodandwine.com/candy.

6. Invert the caramel onto a work surface, peel off the parchment paper and cut into 1-inch squares. Wrap each caramel in a square of cellophane and twist the ends to seal.

MAKE AHEAD The wrapped

caramels can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 6 months.

TIP SHEET ALL IN THE WRIST

Vigorously whisk in the cream and butter to ensure they emulsify so the caramel doesn’t get grainy.

D E C E M B E R 2016

ON THE MONEY

Your caramel will tell you when it’s done: It should be the dark amber color of an old penny.

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GOLDEN RULE

To cut perfectly sized square caramels, use a ruler as your guide and a long knife to slice.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E