Mezze Mavericks

RESTAURANT PREVIEW

The New Mezze Mavericks THE CHEFS BEHIND L.A.’S KISMET COMBINE MIDDLE EASTERN FLAVORS AND CALIFORNIA STYLE. THEY PREVIEW THEIR MOST SNACKABLE RECIPES AT AN AFTERNOON POOL PARTY.

BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALANNA HALE

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culinary traditions of the Middle East (Kramer grew up cooking with her Peruvian-Israeli mother), they see the food through a California lens. For example, at Madcapra, in place of greasy chickpea balls, shredded iceberg and pale tomatoes drizzled with tahini and stuffed into a pita, you’ll find precisely cut blond squares of falafel expertly rolled in a grilled flatbread with fresh herbs, pickled local peppers and walnut yogurt.

At their forthcoming restaurant, Kismet, Kramer and Hymanson will continue to explore this theme through clever shared plates and vegetable-focused mezze. For example, they slowly cook freekeh, a staple grain in countries like Jordan and Israel, until it’s thick and creamy before melting in a robust Taleggio cheese, shaping the mixture into balls and deep-frying. They serve the fritters with a vibrant green relish of sweet English peas, tarragon, parsley and toasty coriander (p. 98). The result: a snackable dish that is simultaneously crisp and velvety, rich and bright, Middle Eastern and oh so California.

ERHAPS INSPIRED BY the mega success of cookbook superstar Yotam Ottolenghi, chefs across the US are playing with dukka, za’atar and other traditional Middle Eastern ingredients. The trend has especially taken hold in Los Angeles, where Middle Eastern essentials like pomegranates and dates grow on trees in the backyard and acclaimed chefs like Jenn Louis and Ori Menashe are opening much-anticipated Middle Eastern restaurants.

Enter Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, a duo from New York City driven west by manifest destiny…and falafel. The two worked together at Glasserie, a Middle Eastern restaurant on a quiet street in Brooklyn. They dreamed of opening a falafel shop, but it wasn’t until an opportunity in California presented itself that their concept began to take shape. “Los Angeles was so much stranger than I imagined, in a really good way,” Hymanson says about the experience of opening Madcapra in Grand Central Market last spring. While the two young chefs clearly have affection for the

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96

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food stylist: vivian lui

Sara Kramer (left) and Sarah Hymanson accent mussel salad (p. 98) with orange blossom water, right.

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“Los Angeles was so much stranger than I imagined, in a really good way,” says chef Sarah Hymanson, a former Brooklynite.

2. Make the fritters In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion, bay leaf and 1¼ teaspoons of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the freekeh and cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains are toasted, 5 minutes.

Freekeh Fritters with Spring Pea Relish

FRITTERS

Total 1 hr 30 min plus 4 hr 30 min chilling Makes about 2 dozen

1 onion, finely chopped

These crisp fritters are Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson’s playful take on Italian arancini.

To get the creamy-chewy texture just right, they cook the grain freekeh risotto-style, adding water gradually while stirring continuously.

Kosher salt and pepper

RELISH

¾ cup fresh or thawed frozen peas 2 tsp. coriander seeds 5 pitted Castelvetrano olives 1 Tbsp. salt-packed capers, rinsed 1 spring garlic bulb or 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¾ cup finely chopped parsley 2 Tbsp. chopped tarragon Kosher salt and pepper

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3. Add ¾ cup of water to the freekeh and stir constantly until absorbed, about 5 minutes.

Add another 3 cups of water, 3/4 of a cup at a time and stirring constantly, until the water is absorbed between additions.

The freekeh is done when it’s tender and suspended in a thick sauce, about 30 minutes total. Discard the bay leaf.

Reduce the heat to moderate and stir in the Taleggio. Season with salt and pepper.

1½ Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 bay leaf

4. Transfer the freekeh to an 8-by-8-inch baking dish and press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface.

Refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

1 cup cracked freekeh (see box, p. 100) 8 oz. chilled Taleggio cheese, rind removed and cheese shredded

5. Spread the flour in a shallow bowl and season with salt and pepper. In a second shallow bowl, beat the eggs with 2 tablespoons of water. Spread the panko in a third bowl. Shape the freekeh into 2-tablespoonsize balls; dredge in the flour, tapping off any excess, then dip in the beaten eggs. Dredge in the panko, pressing lightly to help it adhere. Transfer the breaded freekeh to a baking dish in a single layer and refrigerate until firm, 30 minutes.

¾ cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 1½ cups panko Canola oil, for frying

1. Make the relish In a small saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the peas until just tender, 30 seconds. Drain and rinse under cold water; pat dry.

In a skillet, toast the coriander until fragrant, 2 minutes. Pulse in a spice grinder until coarsely ground. In a food processor, pulse the peas with the olives, capers, spring garlic and coriander until coarsely chopped.

Transfer the relish to a bowl and stir in the olive oil and lemon juice. Fold in the herbs and season with salt and pepper; refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.

6. In a large, straight-sided skillet, heat 1½ inches of canola oil to 325°. Fry the freekeh balls in batches until golden brown, 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Season with salt and serve hot with the relish.

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Mussel-and-Leek Salad Crostini page 96 Total 50 min; Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 Fresno chile—halved, seeded and thinly sliced 3 thyme sprigs 2 oregano sprigs 2 strips of lemon zest 1 bay leaf 2½ lbs. mussels, debearded Kosher salt and pepper 4 large leeks, light green and white parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick 2½ tsp. white wine vinegar ¼ tsp. orange blossom water (optional) ½ cup tarragon leaves Three 1-inch-thick slices of sourdough bread cut from a large round loaf 5 oz. watercress leaves and small stems (1 cup)

1. In a medium saucepan, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and the chile and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, 1 minute. Add the thyme, oregano, lemon zest strips and bay leaf and cook for 30 seconds.

2. Stir in the mussels and 1/3 cup of water and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook, shaking the pot occasionally, until the mussels open, 3 to 5 minutes. Discard any that do not open. Drain the mussels in a colander set over a heatproof bowl. Remove the mussels from the shells and add to the bowl with the reserved cooking liquid. Wipe out the saucepan.

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Grilled Spring Onions with Pistachio Butter Total 1 hr plus 2 hr pickling Serves 4 to 6

Young spring onions with smaller bulbs cook more evenly on the grill. If you can only find onions with larger bulbs, halve them lengthwise, then grill.

1 cup rice vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1 bay leaf Kosher salt 1 cardamom pod 1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1½ cups whole pitted prunes 1¼ cups unsalted pistachios 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tsp. grated lemon zest 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 5 young spring onions or large scallions, trimmed

INGREDIENT ESSENTIALS ALEPPO (Uh-LEPPO) A dried ground pepper from Syria and Turkey; mildly spicy, tart, fruity.

BAHARAT (BAH-ha-ROT) The Arabic word for spices, this all-purpose blend commonly includes black pepper, cumin and cinnamon.

FREEKEH (FREE-kah) Nutty-flavored roasted green wheat that tastes like a cross between brown rice and barley.

KEFIR (ke-fir/ke-FEER) Akin to drinkable yogurt, it’s usually made with cow’s milk.

LEBNEH (LEB-neigh) Greek yogurt’s thicker, richer Lebanese cousin.

Can go sweet or savory.

URFA (ER-fah) A smoky, coarsely ground Turkish chile.

ZHOUG (shoog) Spicy Yemeni relish made with chiles, garlic, coriander and other spices.

A falafel match made in heaven.

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3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in the saucepan. Add the leeks and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 minutes. Add the leeks to the mussels. Stir in the vinegar, orange blossom water, if using, and tarragon and season with salt and pepper.

4. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Brush the bread with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, 5 minutes. Rub the grilled bread with the remaining garlic clove and cut each slice in half on the diagonal.

5. Arrange the grilled bread on a platter and top with the mussel-and-leek salad. Garnish with the watercress, drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately.

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be

prepared through Step 3 and refrigerated overnight. Serve at room temperature.

WINE A bright, briny Muscadet:

2014 Domaine de la Pépière Les Gras Moutons.

100

1 cup Greek yogurt ½ tsp. Urfa or Aleppo pepper (see box, left) Mint leaves, for garnish

1. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, ½ teaspoon of salt and ¾ cup of water. Wrap the cardamom, peppercorns and coriander seeds in a cheesecloth bundle and add to the saucepan.

Simmer the brine over moderate heat for 10 minutes. Put the prunes in a heatproof bowl, pour the brine over them and let stand for 2 hours.

2. Drain the prunes, reserving the brine. Discard the spice bundle and bay leaf. Simmer the brine until it coats the back of a spoon, 10 minutes, then pour over the prunes in the bowl.

3. Preheat the oven to 300°.

Spread the pistachios on a baking sheet and bake until lightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor and let cool. Add the garlic and lemon zest and process until finely chopped, 1 minute.

Add 2 tablespoons of the olive

oil and ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons of water and process until a smooth paste forms; season with salt.

4. Light a grill. In a large bowl, toss the spring onions with the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil and season with salt. Grill the onions over moderately high heat until tender and lightly charred, 6 to 8 minutes.

5. Quarter 8 of the prunes.

(Save the rest for another use.)

Spread the yogurt and pistachio butter on a platter. Top with the grilled onions and season with the Urfa pepper.

Garnish with the prunes, mint leaves and a drizzle of olive oil; serve immediately.

Swiss Chard with Aleppo Pepper and Buttermilk Active 20 min; Total 40 min Serves 4 to 6

This recipe calls for serving the greens in a pool of seasoned buttermilk, but plain kefir (see box, left) or yogurt works, too.

2/3 cup buttermilk ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt and pepper 1½ lbs. Swiss chard, stems sliced ¼ inch thick and leaves chopped 2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (see box, left) ½ tsp. ground sumac 1 garlic clove, finely grated ½ lemon, for serving » grilled spring onions with pistachio butter

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braised chicken with fava beans and crispy rice

1. In a large, shallow bowl, whisk the buttermilk with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

2. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the chard stems and season with the Aleppo pepper, sumac and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper.

Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the chard stems begin to soften, about 5 minutes.

Braised Chicken with Fava Beans Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 45 min Serves 6 2½ tsp. baharat (see box, p. 100) Kosher salt and pepper 6 chicken legs (3½ lbs.)

1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 small onion, halved through the root 1 lemon, halved

3. Add the chard leaves and the garlic to the skillet. Cover and cook over moderately high heat, stirring once, until the leaves are tender and wilted, about 4 minutes. Season the chard with salt and pepper and let cool to room temperature.

1 bay leaf

4. Spoon the Swiss chard over the buttermilk. Squeeze the lemon half over the greens, drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Crispy Rice with Dried Mint and Lemon (recipe follows), for serving

MAKE AHEAD The steamed

Swiss chard can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before serving.

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1/3 cup dry sherry 3¾ cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth 3 lbs. fava beans, shelled ½ cup chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

1. In a small bowl, mix 1½ teaspoons of the baharat with 1 tablespoon of salt. Rub the mixture all over the chicken legs and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

Mezze

2. Preheat the oven to 250°. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add 3 of the chicken legs and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned, 10 minutes; transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining chicken, then pour off the fat.

Crispy Rice with Dried Mint and Lemon

3. Add the onion and 1 lemon half to the casserole cut side down and cook over moderately high heat until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the bay leaf and sherry and scrape up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Return the chicken and its juices to the casserole. Add the stock, the remaining 1 teaspoon of baharat and ¾ teaspoon of salt; bring to a simmer.

Cover and braise in the oven until the chicken is very tender, about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

2 bay leaves

4. Transfer the chicken legs to a plate and let cool slightly; discard the onion, lemon half and bay leaf. Skim the fat off the braising liquid, then simmer over moderately high heat until reduced by one-fourth, 8 to 10 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Discard the chicken skin and bones and pull the meat into large chunks; return the meat to the braising liquid and keep warm.

5. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the fava beans for 1 minute. Drain and transfer to the ice bath to cool. Drain the fava beans and peel off the skins.

6. Fold the fava beans and the ½ cup of parsley into the braised chicken and reheat if necessary. Garnish the chicken with more parsley. Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges and serve with the chicken. Serve with the Crispy Rice with Dried Mint and Lemon.

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can

be prepared through Step 4 and refrigerated for up to 4 days.

Reheat gently before finishing.

WINE Full-bodied Western Cape

white blend: 2014 Thorne & Daughters Rocking Horse.

102

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 to 6

The secret to this dish is packing the aromatic rice into the skillet in an even layer, then letting it cook undisturbed until an amazing golden crust forms.

Kosher salt 2¼ cups basmati rice, rinsed 4½ Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 6 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. dried mint

1. In a medium saucepan, boil 8 cups of water with the bay leaves and 2 tablespoons of salt. Add the rice and cook until it begins to soften but still has a bite, 6 minutes. Drain the rice and rinse with cold water; discard the bay leaves. Transfer to a large bowl.

2. In the saucepan, melt 2½ tablespoons of the butter in the olive oil. Add the lemon zest and mint and cook over low heat until fragrant, 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of salt and 3 tablespoons of water. Fold the lemon butter into the rice.

3. In a large nonstick skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Mound onefourth of the rice in the center of the skillet. Spread it in an even layer, pressing firmly with a spatula to pack it 1/8 inch thick. Spread the remaining rice on top in an even layer.

4. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the rice smells toasty and is beginning to brown on the bottom, 10 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low and cook until the rice is tender and golden brown on the bottom, 10 minutes more. Remove the skillet from the heat and let steam, covered, for 5 minutes.

5. Invert a large platter on the skillet and carefully turn the rice out onto it. Serve hot.

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