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The Best Holiday Ham Ever “THE NOSTALGIA COMPONENT is

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HUNGRY FOR MORE?

This ham has unlimited leftover potential.

To make Gillespie’s killer breakfast casserole with it, visit foodandwine .com/strata.

D E C E M B E R 2016

just as important as the dish itself,” says Kevin Gillespie of Revival in Decatur, Georgia. When the Top Chef alum decided to open a restaurant with executive chef Andreas Müller, he wanted to elevate the Southern classics he grew up loving (many of the recipes are his grandmother’s). The house-smoked ham (p. 175) is next-level: The crust is lacquered with brown sugar and spices, but the interior is juicier than any ham Gillespie had as a kid. The secret: He cooks it in foil and lets it rest before unwrapping, so no moisture is lost.

The result is steamed yet caramelized—reminiscent of Grandma’s holiday ham, but (with all due respect) even better.

129 Church St.; revivaldecatur.com. —JULIA HEFFELFINGER 176

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: marcus nilsson; food stylist: hadas smirnoff; style editor: suzie myers

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Spiced Brown Sugar Ham with Apple Jus page 176 Active 20 min; Total 5 hr 30 min Serves 8 to 10

Make sure to keep the ham wrapped in foil while resting (two hours is ideal) so the meat can reabsorb any moisture released during cooking. “If you can’t pick up the foil-wrapped ham without burning yourself, then it’s not done resting!” says chef Kevin Gillespie.

One 1-lb. box light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 1½ tsp. ground cloves 1½ tsp. ground cinnamon One 8- to 10-lb. bone-in smoked ham, skin removed 3 medium Fuji apples—peeled, cored and thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium bowl, mix the sugar with the pepper, cloves and cinnamon.

2. Place the ham fat side up on two large pieces of aluminum foil and, using your hands, rub the sugar mixture all over the top and side; it should form a thick layer. Wrap the ham tightly in the foil and transfer to a large roasting pan. Bake for about 3 hours, until glossy on the outside and a thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 125°.

Transfer the ham to a work surface and let rest in the foil at room temperature until cool enough to handle, about 2 hours.

3. Unwrap the ham and slice the meat; transfer to a large platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Pour the accumulated juices into a large measuring cup and spoon off any fat. You should have about 3¼ cups.

4. In a medium saucepan, combine the sliced apples with 2 tablespoons of water.

Cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the apples to a blender and puree with the ham juices and vinegar until smooth. Strain the apple jus through a fine-mesh sieve set over a gravy boat and season with salt. Serve the ham, passing the apple jus at the table.

WINE Fruit-forward, luscious Zinfandel:

2014 Seghesio Sonoma County.

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