Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 14 May - Sep 2018

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds May - August 2018

Capital of style Hanging out in Braamfontein

Mandela's Joburg

In the footsteps of a giant

N°14 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 A round-up of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

17

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

22

Best hotels, guesthouses and hostels

Where to eat Joburg's show-stopping spaces Cafés, coffee, patisserie and delis Mediterranean Joburg On the grill

24 24 27 30 32

Discover Braamfontein

34

Exploring the capital of cool

Nightlife Bar crawling in Maboneng Meet the makers Cocktails, bars and pubs

Sightseeing

36 36 38 40

Mandela's Joburg Museums and city tours Art City Parks, nature reserves and outdoor adventures

42 42 45 48 50

Soweto

52

Historic sights and the best tour picks

Shopping Cool and quirky stores Boutique shopping Market shopping Luxury shopping

55 55 56 58 60

Joburg basics

62

Essential information for your stay

Maps 64-67 City Centre, Sandton Central, Sandton to Rosebank EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for.

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Foreword Winter in Joburg, and the city shows no signs of arresting its ceaseless activity. There are still plenty of sunny days despite the cold, and reasons to go outdoors to enjoy music festivals, art events and bustling markets offering everything from traditional medicine to craft cocktails. For this issue we have put the spotlight on Braamfontein, a dynamic student neighbourhood that is also a popular art district and a great destination for enjoying vibrant nightlife. This year marks Nelson Mandela’s centenary and we pay tribute to his incredible legacy as a world leader with a guide to Madiba’s Joburg and the key places that were touched by his life. You’ll also find our pick of Joburg’s sexiest restaurants, bars for catching World Cup matches, cocktails, high tea and a round-up of the coolest and quirkiest places to shop, while big spenders will enjoy our luxury-shopping guide. Wherever you have arrived from, in your hands is your passport to being a Joburg insider. For updates follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and whatever you choose to do we hope you enjoy your time in Joburg.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Assistant Editor Louise Whitworth Researchers Idara Udom and Melusi Hlatshwayo Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Photography In Your Pocket City Guides or as credited Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196 or Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Enquiries For general enquiries and event listings mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com, or tel. +27 87 808 1099.

Advertising For advertising in our print magazine, on our website and our weekly What's On newsletter, mail laurice.taitz@inyourpocket. com, or tel. +27 82 572 3553.

COVER IMAGE Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The city neighbourhood of Braamfontein has a unique energy and sense of style, which we have tried to capture in our feature article on page 34. The photo of Chix Phetoe and Bryan Fisherman Marie was taken by Heather Mason of @2Summers blog at Kitchener’s Carvery Bar where the two sell sunglasses every Saturday.

Johannesburg and Surrounds

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

May - August 2018

Capital of style Hanging out in Braamfontein

Mandela's Joburg

In the footsteps of a giant

Published: February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

N°14 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

FIND US ONLINE ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

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In print we strive to bring you a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city. Space is limited so we can never put everything we like in our printed guides.

All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes do occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar.

Daily we share updates on social media, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP, on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, or on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed. Also download our In Your Pocket City Essentials app, available for IOS and Android at iyp.me/app for Joburg highlights and In Your Pocket guides to a host of exciting cities.

May 2018 – August 2018

5

Oki Dub Ainu Band, Bassline Fest, Constitution Hill

What’s On

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed, but midweek you’ll already find Joburg’s trivia buffs and bookworms putting their minds to work at pub quizzes and book launches.

Art exhibition openings are generally held on Thursday nights and Saturday mornings. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville and Rosebank are popular nightlife neighbourhoods.

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Saturday night, best make a reservation. If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km Park Runs (parkrun.co.za) on weekend mornings in the city’s parks.

Before going to print, we strive to bring together a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers.

Space is limited so we can never put everything we like in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes may occur, so for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com or download our app and browse our What’s On calendar. Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS & FAIRS 12.05 SATURDAY THE KINGSMEAD BOOK FAIR An annual celebration of literary culture, the day-long programme offers a great mix of writer's talks, plus plenty of books and delicious food for sale. The programme caters for all ages and there's generally a strong mix of topics.QL-12, Kingsmead College, 132 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, kingsmead. co.za. General admission R70, talks R60 per session.

26.05 SATURDAY – 27.05 SUNDAY BASSLINE FEST This annual Africa Day music festival brings a packed line-up of exciting local and international acts together including Nigerian pop star Yemi Alade, Mali Afro-pop veteran Salif Keita, Mozambican marrabenta band Ghorwane and Cape Verde’s Elida Almeida.QD-2, Constitution Hill, bassline.co.za. Tickets R400. Weekend pass R700.

1.06 FRIDAY – 3.06 SUNDAY VINTAGE WITH LOVE A giant charity sale of the best picks of pre-loved designer vintage clothing and accessories. Dig around and you may be lucky enough to find a barely worn pair of Jimmy Choos or a Chanel handbag, all at staggeringly low prices. QThe Forum The Campus, Sloane St, Bryanston, vintagewithlove.co.za. Tickets R100.

7.06 THURSDAY – 10.06 SUNDAY SOUTH AFRICAN CHILDREN’S BOOK FAIR Ahead of National Book Week in September, the South African Children’s Book Fair is the ultimate festival for young bibliophiles with hands-on workshops, poetry sessions, readings, and storytelling sessions.QTicketpro Dome, sachildrenbookfair.co.za. Tickets R30–R50. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

9.06 SATURDAY FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE Spread across four outdoor stages in Newtown, this annual one-day music festival sponsored by the Alliance Francaise showcases musical talent from across South Africa, Europe and Africa's French-speaking countries. The festival tagline is 'Free Music For All', and you'll find a broad mix of genres including jazz, pop, rock, soul, indie, folk and funk.QC-4, Newtown Junction, 100 Carr St, Newtown, fetedelamusiquejhb.co.za. Entrance is free.

14.06 THURSDAY – 17.06 SUNDAY SOWETO INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Taking over Soweto Theatre’s indoor and outdoor stages, the inaugural Soweto International Jazz Festival presents an exciting line-up of celebrated jazz musicians from around Africa, the Caribbean and the US, including legendary New Orleans R&B band The Neville Brothers, South African jazz and reggae singer Ernie Smith and reggae icons Third World.QSoweto Theatre. Tickets R450.

17.06 SUNDAY ROOTS OF HUMANKIND Described as ‘music for today – rooted in our rich past’ this music festival held at the splendid Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind stars local artists whose sounds are influenced by traditional African instruments and beats.

There's also a high-end market with a great choice of boutique wines and gourmet food trucks.QNirox Sculpture Park, acousticsnow.org. Tickets R330–R360. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

28.06 THURSDAY – 30.06 SATURDAY BASHA UHURU FESTIVAL Constitution Hill’s annual Basha Uhuru Freedom Festival is held in honour of Youth Month, celebrating South African youth culture and creativity through a packed programme of free art, music, fashion and film events.QD-2, Constitution Hill, constitutionhill.org.za FIRST THURSDAYS

On the first Thursday evening monthly, the neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Rosebank get taken over by art events, live music, pop-up bars and DJ sets. In Rosebank hit up contemporary galleries Goodman Gallery and Lizamore & Associates on Art Gallery Row along Jan Smuts Avenue and join the huge street party at Keyes Art Mile (cnr Jellicoe Ave) where the street is closed to traffic, and pop-up bars and food trucks are set up while live music performances add a festive atmosphere. Meanwhile in Braamfontein there’s always something fun happening, from exhibition openings to special gigs and club nights particularly on Juta and De Beer Sts (See our Braamfontein feature on Page 34 for more).Qfirst-thursdays.co.za BUYING TICKETS ONLINE Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, ticketpros.co.za Webtickets, 0861 225 598 webtickets.co.za Computicket, 0861 915 8000 online.computicket.com May 2018 – August 2018

7

The Color Purple, Joburg Theatre

What’s On

THEATRE & DANCE 04.05 FRIDAY – 03.06 SUNDAY THE TRAIN DRIVER South African playwright Athol Fugard has described this recent work as one of his most important. Inspired by the horrific story of a black woman who threw herself and her three children in front of a train in the Cape Flats, the play follows traumatised Afrikaans train driver Roelf (Dawid Minaar) who is joined by black gravedigger Simon (John Kani) on a journey in search of the woman’s grave.QMarket Theatre. Tickets R90–R150.

9.05 WEDNESDAY – 19.07 THURSDAY AVENUE Q With a catchy score and life lessons delivered by puppets this tongue in cheek musical tackles everything from racism to pornography, following a recent college graduate and his oddball friends as they navigate work life and dating.QPieter Toerien at Montecasino. Tickets R100–R350.

11.05 FRIDAY – 13.05 SUNDAY DYNAMO LIVE Magician, author and global TV icon Dynamo brings his magic to South Africa for the first time. Dynamo became a household name after walking on the river Thames and levitating in front of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro.

QTime Square Sun Arena, 209 Aramist Ave, Waterkloof, Pretoria, showtime.co.za. Tickets R375–R675.

30.05 WEDNESDAY – 24.06 SUNDAY PORRALICIOUS 4 Award-winning actress Sonia Esgueira returns with this fourth iteration of the Ferreira family story about a dysfunctional Portuguese-immigrant family trying to keep their identity in an increasingly global world. Hilariously chaotic.

QPieter Toerien at Montecasino. Tickets R130–R165.

1.06 FRIDAY – 10.06 SUNDAY SEMPRE OPERA PRESENTS CARMEN The South African opera company Sempre Opera present 8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

George Bizet’s dramatic Spanish love story Carmen. Sung in its native French the performance includes live orchestral accompaniment by the Pretoria Symphony Orchestra.

QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R475.

01.06 FRIDAY – 17.06 SUNDAY WOZA ALBERT One of the most celebrated examples of anti-apartheid satirical theatre, Woza Albert! imagines the second coming of Jesus Christ, with the messiah returning to the world in 1980s South Africa on an SAA flight. Initially welcomed he soon falls foul of the cruel apartheid state who persecute, torture and imprison him, causing him to perform various miracles to escape.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R70–R120.

29.06 FRIDAY – 8.07 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET’S FIRE AND ICE This double bill combines classical and contemporary ballet with two contrasting works – Raymonda Act 3 by Brazilian ballet producer Guivalde de Almeida, and a work specially commissioned for Joburg Ballet by French-Algerian choreographer Redha.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R100–R475.

7.08 TUESDAY – 2.09 SUNDAY THE COLOR PURPLE EDITOR'S CHOICE Directed by award-winning theatre director Janice Honeyman and starring a supremely talented cast, this South African production of the Tony Award-winning musical based on Toni Morrison's prize-winning novel (1982) stunned Joburg audiences at its February premiere. A story of great personal triumph over indescribable hardships, and an exploration of black female identity The Color Purple is as relevant today as when it was first written. Expect to be swept away by the intense sorrows and triumphs of the heroine Celie’s life in this emotional and life-affirming show set to a rich sound track of jazz, ragtime and soaring gospel that deftly conjures the spirit of the American Deep South at the turn of the century.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R240–R400. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sipho Ndlovu, Sculpture Ploughing

Estimate R30 000 - 50 000

South African and International Art, Decorative Arts ONLINE-ONLY Auction 30 April - 7 May 2018 Browse > Bid > Buy

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

Katy Perry Witness Tour, Ticket Pro Dome.

Photo by Kevin Mazur, Getty

What’s On

KIDS THEATRE

FILM

4.06 MONDAY – 5.08 SUNDAY ANNIE JR This heartwarming version of the Broadway favourite will delight young audiences with its catchy soundtrack and uplifting story of the plucky orphan Annie and her battle of wills against the orphanage's dastardly mistress Ms Hannigan.QPeople’s Theatre at Joburg Theatre. Tickets R130.

THE BIOSCOPE CINEMA For indie, art house and foreign-language films head to this leading independent cinema in Maboneng, also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films.

Regular events include: Le Movie Club French film night monthly on the last Thursday and Noche Española Spanish film night on the third Thursday. Schedules and bookings online.QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za.

22.06 FRIDAY – 1.07 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE PRESENTS DREAM BIG! Ariel, Belle, Cinderella, Rapunzel, Tiana, Jasmine, Aurora and Snow White take to the ice, joined by the magical fairy Tinkerbell and, of course, everyone’s Frozen favourites, including the hilarious snowman Olaf, in this magical dance adventure.

QTicketpro Dome, disneyonice.com. Tickets R150–R475.

03.07 TUESDAY – 15.07 SUNDAY CARTOON NETWORK LIVE! Scientist extraordinaire Kevin Gizmo heads off on a journey through the Cartoon Network world to team up with heroes from shows such as Ben 10 and The Powerpuff Girls in a quest to help save the world from the evil robot Zarr.

QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R90–R390.

CONCERTS 13.05

Mother’s Day Concert Drakensberg Boys Choir. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens.

Tickets R20–R70.

24.06

Carmina Burana Symphony Choir of Johannesburg and the Johannesburg Festival Orchestra. Linder Auditorium. Tickets R150–R310.

18.07 21.07

Katy Perry Witness Tour. Ticketpro Dome.

Tickets R575–R3295.

17.08 -18.08

Minnesota Orchestra Music for Mandela.

Regina Mundi Church, Soweto (17.08) and Johannesburg City Hall (18.08), minnesotaorchestra.org. Tickets R160–R600.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

31.05 THURSDAY – 10.06 SUNDAY ENCOUNTERS FESTIVAL 2018 The 20th edition of this annual documentary festival showcases new local and international documentary films covering a wide range of topics. There is a focus on new African documentary films and screenings of the biggest international award-winners from the past year. Booking is recommended.QThe Bioscope and Cinema Nouveau in Rosebank Mall, encounters.co.za. Tickets from R45.

THEATRES MARKET THEATREQB-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za.

CONSTITUTION HILLQD-2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, constitutionhill.org.za.

JOBURG THEATREQC/D-2, 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com.

LINDER AUDITORIUMQ27 St Andrews Rd, Wits University Parktown Campus.

MONTECASINO THEATRESQMontecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre, Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, montecasino.co.za.

NIROX SCULPTURE PARKQ24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, acousticsnow.org.

SOWETO THEATREQCnr Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, sowetotheatre.com.

TICKETPRO DOMEQCnr Olievenhout Ave and Northumberland Rd, North Riding, ticketprodome.co.za.

THE PARK HOUSE OF EVENTS ON 7QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, theparkhouseofeventson7.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Cecily Sash, Chalice 1985

R60 000 - 80 000

Important South African and International Art Auction, Monday 4 June 2018, The Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg Preview 1 - 3 June

Enquiries +27 11 728 8246 jhb@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

Black Chronicles IV, see details below

What’s On

FINE ART AUCTIONS South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co hosts live auctions and online auctions with some of the finest artworks and decorative items currently on the market going under the hammer. Even if you are not planning to buy, the exhibitions held in conjunction with these auctions are a brilliant opportunity to view a broad range of works before they disappear into private collections, and to learn about South Africa’s rich art heritage. You can view the full catalogue online for each auction and if you can’t attend a live auction, you can easily phone in your bids.QTel. +27 11 728 8246, straussart. co.za/straussonline.

STRAUSS & CO ONLINE AUCTIONS Strauss & Co’s innovative online auctions are a great way to buy works on auction for the first time. There’s plenty of time to browse and read up on the items before bidding and reserve prices start from as low as R2,000. Look out for two online auctions this season: from 30.04–07.05 and from 09.07–16.07. Artworks from Strauss & Co’s July online auction will also be on show at this year’s Turbine Art Fair at Turbine Hall from 12.07–15.07 where you have the opportunity to discuss the works with expert curators.

04.06 MONDAY STRAUSS & CO LIVE AUCTION Attracting buyers from across Africa and beyond, Strauss & Co’s live auctions are eagerly anticipated. This winter the auction house presents a live auction of important South African and international art on 04.06 which is preceded by an impressive pre-auction exhibition from 01.06–03.06. Learn more about the artists featured at one of a number of talks that are taking place in conjunction with the exhibition.QL-11, The Wanderers Club, 21 North St, Illovo.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ART EXHIBITIONS & EVENTS Joburg has a lively art scene and art calendar with plenty of galleries, artist studios, art-focused neighbourhoods and an ongoing programme of exhibitions, fairs and events.

All galleries are free of charge to enter and openings are a great opportunity to socialise with locals, meet the artist and enjoy a glass of wine while getting some insights into local tastes and preoccupations. For more detail on First Thursdays, an art-inspired night out that takes place in different city neighbourhoods see page 7, and turn to page 48 for more about this art city.

Until 31.05 THURSDAY BLACK CHRONICLES IV The fourth instalment of non-profit British photographic arts agency Autograph ABP’s Black Chronicles comes to Africa for the first time. The fascinating series showcases previously unseen photo studio portraits of 18th and 19th century ‘black presences’ (from Africa, the Caribbean and South Asia) ranging from performers, missionaries, students and sportsmen to politicians and royalty.QFADA Gallery, 17 Bunting Rd, University of Johannesburg, Auckland Park.

Open 09:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. PHOTO CAPTION: Black Chronicles IV. Albert Jonas and John Xiniwe, The African Choir. London, 1891. © Hulton Archive/Getty Images. Courtesy of Hulton Archive, and Autograph ABP, London.

UNTIL 31.05 THURSDAY DEBORAH BELL – INVOCATIONS TO THE PLATE The latest body of prints by Deborah Bell, a leading South African artist known for her examinations of the borders between mortality and immortality, matter and spirit, the ordinary and the mythic. Highlights include the two-metre long She Wolf, a work around which the other smaller prints are based.QK-12, David Krut Projects, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0627, davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May 2018 – August 2018

13

RMB Turbine Art Fair, Newtown

What’s On

UNTIL 03.06 SUNDAY A STEP BECOMES A STATEMENT An extensive retrospective of the work of Joburg-based South African painter Alfred Thoba, whose work chronicles major milestones in recent South African history. In particular the exhibition highlights Thoba’s distinct self-taught painting technique which he uses to express his outrage at social injustice, and offers visitors a glimpse into Thoba’s personal creative process through a series of written narratives and stories that accompany each painting.QC-3, Wits Art Museum, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Strs, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. UNTIL 15.06 FRIDAY GORDON FROUD – HARMONIA Artist and academic Gordon Froud fixates on the sacred geometry present in daily life. His work reinforces the extent to which geometry is inherent in both our corporeal existence and patterns of the universe. Having gained renown for his large-scale cone virus sculptures, Froud extends his practice to drawing, print making and animation.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, Cnr Simmonds St and Frederick St, City Centre, Tel. +27 11 631 4467, standardbankarts. co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 17.05 THURSDAY – 16.06 SATURDAY BOTANICAL ART WORLDWIDE Everard Read Gallery joins more than 25 other art institutions worldwide in showcasing the work of contemporary botanical artists. The exhibition features 83 Southern African botanical artists highlighting, in paint, ink and pencil, the incredible diversity of Africa’s indigenous plant life. Running concurrently with the exhibition is In The Forests of the Night, a group exhibition by local contemporary artists whose works incorporate botanical elements.QK-12, Everard Read, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, everard-read. co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 15.07 SUNDAY ROSS PASSMOOR – AFTERLIFE Ross Passmoor's canvases seek out Joburg's forgotten moments of calm, the unnoticed buildings and the people we pass everyday. Working with found materials collected from around his neighbourhood this Joburg-based multidisciplinary artist probes issues of possession of space, using the everyday detritus of Joburg's streets to create complex sculptures and installations.QC-3, Wits Art Museum, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits. ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

FOOD & WINE FAIRS 10.05

Chardonnay & Pinot Noir Festival. Killarney Country Club, 60 5th St, Lower Houghton, winemenu.co.za. From 18:00–21:00. Tickets R250.

18.05 20.05

The Bubbly Festival. The Park House of Events on 7, facebook.com/bubblesfestival.

Fri 17:00–21:00, Sat 11:00–21:00, Sun 11:00–15:00. Tickets R380.

05.06 06.06

Juliet Cullinan Standard Bank Wine Festival. The Park House of Events on 7, julietcullinan.co.za. From 17:00–21:00.

Tickets R220–R240.

08.06 10.06

Fire & Feast Meat Festival. Ticketpro Dome, fireandfeast.co.za. Tickets R50–R100. Fri 12:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–18:00.

15.06

Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. Sandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton Central, trophywineshow.co.za. From 17:00–21:00. Tickets R200. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

David Koloane, A La Ponte

Estimate R3 000 - 5 000

Strauss & Co at the Turbine Art Fair 12-15 July 2018 ONLINE-ONLY Auction 9 - 16 July 2018 Browse > Bid > Buy

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

What’s On 12.05 SATURDAY – 13.05 SUNDAY AMERICAN EXPRESS WINTER SCULPTURE FAIR Africa's only dedicated outdoor sculpture festival features the work of dozens of leading artists from Africa, Europe and the US, exhibited in the picturesque surrounds of the Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind. This year’s featured artists include celebrated Ndebele artist Esther Mahlangu, and Yoko Ono. The food and wine on offer is also a big attraction with vineyards and restaurants from South Africa's culinary capital Franschhoek, in the Western Cape, hosting stalls at the fair. A delightful day out in the park.

Booking is essential.QNirox Sculpture Park, 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, wintersculpturefair.co.za. Open 10:00– 17:00. Tickets R240, kids under 12 free.

27.06 WEDNESDAY – 16.09 SUNDAY SABELO MLANGENI – UMLINDELO WAMAKHOLWA Award-winning South African photographer Sabelo Mlangeni explores the daily world of the Zionist Christian Church (ZCC) community in southern Africa (a faith of which Mlangeni is a member). His work engages with the history and contemporary practice of this faith, estimated to have a following of around four million people in South Africa alone.

QWits Art Museum, wits.ac.za/wam. See previous page.

RMB TURBINE ART FAIR 12.07 THURSDAY – 15.07 SUNDAY The Forum Company’s historic Turbine Hall venue in Newtown opens up for the weekend to present one of the best annual art events in this city. Founded by the innovative Glynis Hyslop, an art aficionado who lives to create memorable events, this huge art fair has become known for its exciting and wide-ranging selection of contemporary African art at affordable prices (from around R1,000 up to R50,000), with close to 50 different galleries taking part.

The event showcases emerging and established artists and attracts a hip crowd, there as much for the art as for The Forum Company’s imaginative gourmet fare, fascinating talks programme, live music and a fun social occasion in a fabulous urban setting.

Alongside the dozens of exhibiting galleries, this year also keep your eye out for the RMB Talent Unlocked, a selection of works by emerging South African artists. Also not to be missed is the exhibition by leading South African auction house Strauss & Co, featuring historic and contemporary works from their July online auction, and a special exhibition of contemporary art inspired by the still lifes of Irma Stern.

QC-5, Turbine Hall, 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, turbineartfair.co.za. Tickets R120 (R100 online), kids R80–R100 (R50–R80 online).

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

09.07 MONDAY – 30.09 SUNDAY WOLFGANG TILLMANS – FRAGILE The Goethe-Institut and IFA bring Turner Prize-winning German photographer Wolfgang Tillmans work to South Africa for the first time with his newest solo exhibition, Fragile. This follows shows in Kinshasa and Nairobi. Summing up his artistic practice as “I take pictures, to see the world,” Tillmans gained renown for his work on 1990s British club culture.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3130, friendsofjag.org. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. 21.07 SATURDAY – 18.08 SATURDAY GERHARD MARX Artist, director and filmmaker Gerhard Marx presents his fourth solo exhibition with Goodman Gallery. Revisiting the themes from his 2017 Transparent Territories, Marx restructures old maps to create suspended topographies and realities with a prevalent sense of uncertainty.QK-12, Goodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes may occur, so for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com or download our app to browse our What’s On calendar.

Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

REIMAGINING JOHANNESBURG’S CONTEMPOR ARY URBAN LIVING EXPERIENCE WITH A PRIME FUSION OF ART AND DESIGN, MUSIC AND FOOD.

FOR MORE IN FORMATION AN D DETAIL S OF TH E 2018 CALE N DAR OF E VE NTS VISIT W W W. KEYESARTMILE .CO. Z A .

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May 2018 – August 2018

17

Joburg Skyline by Anton Bosman

Arriving & Getting Around

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton.

Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is used by some budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose restrictions on carrying liquids in your hand luggage.

O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and all South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights, in Terminal A. For security purposes have your luggage safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one and a half hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R151. After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus. Official airport taxi service Ortacc Cabs (tel. +27 86 124 3243, ortacc.co.za) charges R14.50 per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office.

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

LOCAL AIRLINES SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS (SAA) The national airline flies to more than 100 destinations around the world.QTel. 0861 606 606 or +27 11 978 1111, flysaa.com.

AIRLINK Specialising in flights from Joburg to regional hubs and private safari lodges in southern Africa.QTel. +27 11 451 7350, flyairlink.com.

BRITISH AIRWAYS Regional flights from Joburg to other South African destinations are operated by local partner Comair.QTel. +27 11 921 0222 or +27 10 344 0130, britishairways.com.

FASTJET Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to destinations in Tanzania and Zimbabwe.QTel. +27 10 500 2560, fastjet.com.

KULULA AIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities, plus Windhoek, Harare, Mauritius, Livingstone and Victoria Falls.QTel. 0861 585 852 or +27 11 921 0500, kulula.com.

MANGO Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to Cape Town, Durban, George, Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar.

QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, flymango.com.

SAFAIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities.QTel. +27 87 135 1351, flysafair.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

To City Centre To a local stop MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Gold Cards cost R16 (this is a non-refundable cost). Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends. You need a minimum of R25 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30. The Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport route has a fixed price of R151. Prices for the north-south Joburg to Pretoria route start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office inside the Gandhi Mall with timetables and route information. Note that the buses are not known for being punctual. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the 05CD from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the fare to the driver (usually R10-R15 for short journeys. Small change is essential). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance for your stop – giving a landmark is usually easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find it offers many insights into everyday South African life.

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of photo ID to register. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30. Check the schedule because on some routes buses run until 20:30 (see reavaya.org.za.)

These are some useful routes: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at Boomtown.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are the most accessible transport service as they cover large swathes of the city and neighbouring townships. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May 2018 – August 2018

19

Arriving & Getting Around DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make frequent unannounced stops. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not entirely uncommon on the freeways. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Johannesburg Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station (tel. +27 11 666 1700), avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), europcar.co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals (343 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 640 2666, rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:30. Closed Sun).

TAXIS AND TUK-TUKS Taxis can be expensive but essential for a wild night out. There are few places a taxi can be hailed in the street and some of the unmetered private taxis hanging around the ranks next to the Gautrain stations have a poor reputation for overcharging.

It is best to confirm a price upfront or order a taxi in advance.

There are a number of taxi apps. The global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network. Download the app and choose from an UberX, Uber Black (luxury vehicle) or Uber Van. First-time users should take advantage of our Uber discount code on page 19. Once you have ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point. This is especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where there has been some conflict between rival private taxi operators and Uber drivers. The city’s largest taxi company is Zebra Cabs which can be ordered by phone or using their app. Zebra Cabs also offers a service for women who require female drivers and payment is accepted in cash, by debit card or via its app (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za). Taxify is another recommended app.

For short trips through the suburbs, tuk-tuks are useful.

E-TUK-TUK Melville-based and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips are R50. Book in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82515 6593, e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside Sandton City mall on West Street and operating within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, sheshatuks.co.za 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQTel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za.

See Sightseeing for Joburg and Soweto tour guides that specialise in walking and cycling tours.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and bike lanes in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. These are not always respected by the rest of the road-using public however so be extra cautious when cycling in urban areas. For the most up-to-date information on cycle routes, go to juca.org.za.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but the City Centre, Braamfontein and Maboneng are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also best explored at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing over the bridges from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers who often do not recognise pedestrian crossings, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike.

NAVIGATING THE CITY In the City Centre beware of driving into the awkwardlyplaced bus lanes as this carries a fine and take note of the many one-way streets. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered singlestreet address. In the suburbs always check whether numbered names such as First or Second are streets or avenues as these usually intersect. See pages 64-67 for our City Centre and Sandton maps. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JOBURG 302 FOX STREET

+27 11 614 0163 stay@curiocityjoburg.com www.curiocity.africa

ACCOMMODATIONS & ORIGINAL EXPERIENCES

DURBAN 55 MONTY NAICKER ROAD

+2731 286 0025 stay@curiocitydurban.com www.curiocity.africa

WHERE TO STAY ATHOLPLACE HOTEL & VILLA Five minutes away from Sandton Central this chic boutique hotel is a tranquil retreat from the busy-ness beyond the front door. Oozing luxury you'll find everything has been designed for your comfort, from the heated swimming pool to the well-stocked library, complete with a fireplace for Joburg’s short but sharp winter season.Q90 Pretoria Ave, Atholl, tel. +27 11 615 4303, morukuru. com/places/atholplace-hotel.

THE BANNISTER HOTEL Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at this stylish budget hotel. The Bannister is one of Braamfontein’s most popular hangouts, with a late-night restaurant and sushi bar, and a New York-style comedy club in the basement.QC-3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za.

THE CAPITAL ON THE PARK Sandton's newest luxury apartment and hotel complex built with a view over Mushroom Farm Park will fulfill most business traveller's dreams. Spacious suites with contemporary finishes, a fitness and business centre, a deck for after-closing-the-deal drinks and proximity to all that Sandton has to offer.QM-9, 101 Katherine St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 290 9700, thecapital.co.za.

CURIOCITY HOSTEL AND 12 DECADES Choose from dorms, private rooms, a loft apartment and 12 Decades – 12 boutique apartments, each designed by an artist to reflect a particular decade of Joburg’s first 120 years. A range of innovative city tours (walking and cycling) start from outside the front door and there are regular live-music events and rooftop parties.QG‑5, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocitybackpackers.com.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF The playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-dead gorgeous views of this most-treed city make the Flames restaurant terrace a prime sundowners destination and the fine dining restaurant View the place to enjoy a gourmet multicourse tasting menu.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons.com/johannesburg.

LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, family accommodation or just pitch a tent in the garden. There is a welcoming beach-style bar, and an open-air restaurant in the adjacent park, plus excellent bicycle, walking or tuk-tuk tours.

Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

LIZ AT LANCASTER This award-winning guesthouse is owned by art historian Liz Delmont, a Joburg maven and blogger who has thought of everything that will make your time here as comfortable as possible.QJ-10, 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083 or +27 83 229 4223, lizatlancaster. co.za.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE Gandhi lived here from 1908-1909 developing his philosophy of Satyagraha (passive resistance). A museum and beautiful boutique hotel that offers visitors a contemplative experience complete with meditation classes.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com.

SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA At the sumptuous Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty and designed for absolute comfort down to the last detail. Built for leisure this most exclusive hotel is an island of tranquillity set within ten acres of landscaped gardens.QK‑9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za.

For more recommended establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download our In Your Pocket City Essentials app (iOS and Android). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Curiocity Hostel 12 Decades

Satyagraha House

Atholplace

Where to stay

Work & relax To get work done outside an office, you can find free Wi-Fi and counter space at many of Joburg’s coffee shops. Alternatively opt for a dedicated co-working space and longer term, a member’s club.

MESH CLUB Africa’s first curated member’s club is a super-stylish and exclusive work and play space for budding and established entrepreneurs. Taking up one floor of the contemporary landmark Trumpet building along Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank, the space is designed for networking and collaboration, or just getting your work done in a mix of public and private areas. With office spaces, meeting rooms and hotdesking facilities, a screening room, lounge, dining area, coffee station and bar, this is a club that no one will want to leave.QK–12, Trumpet, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, meshclub.co.za, tel. +27 10 594 5545. Contact Mesh Club for membership information, prices on request.

SLOW IN THE CITY Described as ‘a lounge for extremely busy people’ SLOW in the City is located in the heart of Sandton’s business district. Set up for frequent flyers who are often on the move, access to SLOW’s airport lounges is included in the membership as well as access to The Hospital Club in Covent Garden, London. Membership is charged monthly and includes hot desking facilities, complimentary usage of small meeting rooms, showers and lockers and access to the SLOW Bistro (food and drink at an extra cost).QM–9, Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel, cnr West St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 87 057 7482, slow.co.za.

Monthly membership fees: 10-day access R1,500, daily access R2,800.

WARM & GLAD With excellent coffee, and a small but delicious menu using, where possible, organic and locally sourced ingredients, Warm & Glad is a great venue for casual meetings.

For all intents and purposes this is a café (and the Ace + Pearl wine bar in the evenings), but many Joburgers like to treat it as an extension of their office.Q357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Alban’s Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 10 300 5931, warmandglad.com. Open 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

Medical Aesthetic Practice located in a professional and exclusive setting in the heart of Sandton.

Four Seasons The Westcliff Spa

CO-WORKING & MEMBER’S CLUBS

SPAS & SALONS AESTHETICS ON 5TH At this exclusive and discreet medical aesthetics consulting practice you can get professional and highly specialised advice and rejuvenating treatments to combat ageing and make you look your absolute best.QK-11, 3A 5th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 788 7910, aestheticson5th.co.za.

Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SAXON SPA An ultra-luxe favourite, once the fluffy gown is on, the cares of the outside world will seem very far away. Treatments include expert facials, manicures and massages, and there's even a hair salon to ensure you leave looking fabulous. Book off some time so you can enjoy the excellent spa facilities.QK-9, Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za.

Open 08:30–21:00.

FOUR SEASONS THE WESTCLIFF SPA The search for serenity should lead here. Book a single treatment or a package and make use of the spa facilities that include his and her’s steam rooms and saunas, a wraparound outdoor lap pool and a jacuzzi. Your treatment time will start with a relaxing foot ritual and you will even have the option of choosing the accompanying genre of music.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, fourseasons.com/johannesburg/spa, tel. +27 11 481 6450. Open 09:00–20:00.

Start the journey to a better you!

We offer: • Neurotoxin and Filler Injections.

• FRAXEL Laser.

• ULTHERA and THERMAGE Skin Tightening.

• COOLSCULPTING Fat Freezing.

• Many other aesthetic treatments

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

011 788 7910 www.aestheticson5th.co.za info@aestheticson5th.co.za

May 2018 – August 2018

23

JOBURG’S S H O W- S T O P P I N G S PA C E S While we’re the first to argue that what’s on the plate is the ultimate deal-breaker when eating out, there's something to be said for how much a sexy space adds to your restaurant experience. Here's our guide to the city’s most stylish restaurants, where the food, the look and the atmosphere all make the grade.

THE BIG MOUTH This slick joint with marble counters and art deco-inspired monochrome and brass interiors has raised the tone of what used to be a tired tourist trap serving sad pizzas on popular Nelson Mandela Square. The seafood and sushifocused menu offers plenty of choice and some innovative twists. We love the fish and chips 'sushi' roll with crispy hake or choose from the sashimi salad (poke-style) bowls, ceviche, grills or pan dishes. The caramel popcorn pot that arrives with your bill also keeps us sweet on this place.

QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, 5th St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 63 293 8869, thebigmouth.co.za. Open 12:00– 23:00, Sun 12:00–22:00. RR-RRR. LB BREEZEBLOCK A friendly neighbourhood café in the historic suburb of Brixton with superb retro 1970s decor, the name comes from the neatly painted 1970s breezeblocks lining its sunny courtyard. The eclectic menu is filled with home-style comfort food from an eggplant shakshuka to baked butternut dumplings with hot butterscotch sauce. Dave the owner is a cycling junkie and also offers cycling lessons for beginners.Q29 Chiswick St, Brixton, tel. +27 76 705 3992, breezeblock.co.za. Open 07:00–17:00, Fri 07:00–22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–17:00. Closed Mon. RR. UEBW 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY Be transported to a Caribbean island in this quirky and kitsch beach bar-themed joint with its tropical plant feature wall, abundant palms and colourful garlands of lights, while sipping daiquiris served in cute pineapple-shaped glasses or a classic piña colada. Named after the great Trinidadian cricketer the menu is dedicated to West Indian favourites like jerk chicken, fish cakes, crab curry and ribs.

Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00– 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. B EB SOCIAL KITCHEN You couldn't ask for a more novel setting then this restaurant and bar set in one of the city's best bookshops.

The books flow into a semi-industrial space filled with mismatched furniture pieces and endowed with a grand view of the urban forest of the northern suburbs. A brassand-tile bar comes with books scattered across it for your reading pleasure. The classy contemporary menu is always evolving to match the seasons and there’s an excellent wine list and selection of literary-inspired cocktails from which to choose.QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Open 07:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–15:00. RRR. ULW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Marble, Rosebank

Where to eat

Where to eat MARBLE At star chef David Higgs’s rooftop restaurant impressive artworks, a turquoise ceramic-tiled wall and light wooden floors give the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky. The lounge bar and terrace (separated by a gorgeous glass wine cellar) with views stretching towards the Magaliesberg is a perfect sundowners spot while the heart of the restaurant is the live-fire grill in an open kitchen, the spectacular flames cooking up everything from meats and seafood to freshly baked bread.QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, cnr Keyes and Jellicoe Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Open for lunch 12:00–16:00, dinner 18:00–22:00. Bar open 12:00–22:00. RRRR. UELB

TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE ‘African glamour’ inspired this branch of the chic local chain Tashas. The decor is dramatically elegant adding atmosphere to what was previously an unremarkable corner of tourist-heavy Nelson Mandela Square. To be among Sandton’s movers and shakers, book a table in the Flamingo Room at an extra charge. Order from the extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu or from Tashas “signature” dishes. Tashas dishes are always flavourful and generously portioned.QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, Cnr Maude and 5th Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 0389, tashascafe.com. Open Mon–Thu 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00–22:30, Sun 07:00–21:30. RR-RRR. ULBS

THE ROYALE Inspired by The Cuban Royal Palm Hotel, the 1950s tropical playground of high rolling Americans, you'll be lured in to The Royale by the salsa music playing in the background and the de rigueur rum cocktails. A pastel pink and green tropical colour scheme with statement neon signs perfectly conjures up a lively atmosphere and the space flows out into an enclosed alleyway where there’s a separate ‘speakeasy’-style bar. As one food critic described it the menu is Cuban-ish, casual fare that includes empanadas, sliders and crispy potato skins.QJ-10, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall, tel. +27 60 575 2471. Open 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00– 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. Corkage R50. LBW

URBANOLOGI Located in an old downtown warehouse with a history stretching back to Joburg’s gold rush town heyday, Urbanologi shares space with the Mad Giant brewery. The said Mad Giant looms above the main concrete bar (designed to resemble a bottle top) as an immense metal figure, looking over the innovative Meccano-inspired décor. A show-stopping space serving exciting small plates drawn from Asian street food styles, many of the choices are meaty but there some vegetarian plates. Check the menu in advance if this concerns you.QC-5, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00 (Kitchen closes at 16:00). RR-RRR. UELBW

SAIGON SUZY The plush karaoke rooms – reached by a backlit staircase bearing classic Rick Astley lyrics – are reason alone to visit this Asian-inspired joint. And you'll find a young roaring crowd here, particularly on Thursday and Friday nights.

Rough facebrick walls host attractively kitsch murals and the ceiling is festooned with dozens of classic posters and pretty parasols. The food style is Asian fusion with plenty of choices ranging from small plates to baos (although of late we have heard murmuring from food fans that Saigon Suzy is more a fun destination than the place for gourmet tastes. You be the judge). Asian beers and sake join some cheeky cocktails on the drinks menu.QK-12, 144-146 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 327 6596. Open 12:00–24:00 (Kitchen closes at 22:00). RR. B

For more recommended restaurants and cafés, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

PRICE KEY

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

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Saigon Suzy, Parkwood

R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

May 2018 – August 2018

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Where to eat AFRICAN RETRO

WORKSHOP 55 A cosmopolitan destination serving up exceptionally tasty small plate options that are presented with flair. This is innovative and exciting fare with flavours from a range of cuisines and the menu changing to reflect the seasonal availability of produce. While Workshop 55’s aesthetic is pared-down industrial chic, the adjoining gin bar Lounge 55 is inspired by the glamorous cocktail lounges of 1920s Miami. You are almost obliged to try a gin cocktail or two with your meal as there's a great selection of fresh infusions.QJ/K-12, 55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55.co.za. Open 16:00–22:00 (food is served from 18:00). Closed Sun, Mon. RRR. ULBW VIEW AND PRE VIEW One of Joburg’s most luxurious hotels, Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is a sedate Shangri-la set across Westcliff ridge and boasting some of the best views of the city. At fine dining restaurant View the interior is all contemporary restraint, a shot of acid yellow upholstery reviving the inky tones that were designed to conjure the evening cityscape.

Service is polished and the dress code is smart casual. The awe-inspiring views come standard. Pre View is a more 'casual' cocktail and tapas-style small plates affair perfect for after-work drinks. Bookings are essential for View, while Pre View encourages walk-ins.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6180, viewrestaurant.co.za. View is open for breakfast Mon–Sat 07:00–11:00, dinner Tue–Sat 18:00–21:30. Pre View is open Tue–Sat 18:00–21:30. RRRR. LBW For more recommended restaurants and cafés, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE ROVING BANTU KITCHEN A bright spot on Brixton's gritty main drag, this place is filled with quirky African memorabilia, pieces of the sometimes competing narratives of history and memory in South Africa. Old posters of the two Bobs – Marley and Mugabe – sit side by side with vintage radios and furniture, and other items of political curiosity collected by owner Sifiso Ntuli during his years in political exile. The menu is pure Afro-soul food, homemade dishes influenced by African and Afro-Caribbean cuisines and ingredients. The chicken wings are HOT! This 'centre for friendship and memory' also hosts regular music events and offers fascinating walking tours through Brixton, Sophiatown and Fietas. Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, rovingbantu. co.za. Open Thu 18:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00–24:00, Sun 13:00–17:30 (Call ahead as the kitchen may close early). Closed Mon–Wed. R. BE

The Roving Bantu Kitchen, Brixton

Pre View, Westcliff

MILK BAR At this African-retro styled café-bar, named after Abu’s Milk Bar in Addis Ababa, quirky items, colourful fabrics and traditional artefacts abound. The chairs are upholstered in African shweshwe fabrics and the walls are hung with vintage maps and stunning portraits taken in Ethiopia’s Omo River Valley. The menu offers basic café fare like toasties and pot pies, Mozambican beers and craft gin-based cocktails. We are fans of the flatbreads. Also at George Lea Park in Sandton.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel .+27 10 594 5128, milkbar.co.za. Open 06:30–22:00, Sun 06:30–17:00. R. L­BESW

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The Richmond Studio Café, Richmond

Where to eat

CAFÉS EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor at this tiny Tel Aviv-inspired eatery is constantly evolving. It includes the ‘tochas’ cushion (Yiddish for bottom) and other quirky innovations by popular T-shirt and homeware brand Love Jozi. Your table comes with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with toppings, the shakshuka or excellent shawarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice or cocktail to go with it. If you are not a morning person, take comfort from the all-day breakfast menu.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. 6­B­S­W GALATA BAKERY AND COFFEE This charming and always bustling Turkish bakery and café offers authentic cuisine at student-friendly prices. Named after an ancient Istanbul neighbourhood its decor embellishments recall its origins. The food comes in generous portions. Feast on the Turkish Breakfast, a refreshing combination of Turkish-style scrambled eggs with traditional flatbread, served with strong black tea.QC‑3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 64 152 0528. Open 07:00–20:00.

B­S­W POST BREAKFAST LUNCH A hipster corner of Braamfontein complete with bearded baristas, a counter with a street view, vinyl on the turntable and a small but more than adequate breakfast and lunch menu. If you need more space find a spot at the long table in the courtyard in the back.QC‑3, 70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl.tumblr.com. Open 06:30–16:00, Sat, public holidays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. B­S­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SALVATION CAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard – perfect for relaxed family meals.

QA‑1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:30). 6­U­L­B­S THE RICHMOND STUDIO CAFÉ NEW Run by former journalists this neighbourhood café between Melville and Auckland Park is a popular hangout for the media crowd. Part café and part photography studio, the decor includes a collection of vintage cameras that have found new life as light fixtures and fabulous wall displays. This is a welcoming space, both because of its friendly owners and the natural light streaming in from the floorto-ceiling windows. The menu is simple and uncluttered (for lunch try their signature toasted sandwiches) and the excellent coffee is a perfect early morning pick-me-up.

Q14 Menton Rd, Richmond, tel. +27 10 595 1070 or +27 63 412 5365. Open 07:30–17:00. U­L­B­W

COFFEE BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first roaster of Fair Trade coffee sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor is perfect for savouring the smell of freshly roasted beans. Bean There also offers home barista courses.QA‑1, 44 Stanley, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. U­B­S­W May 2018 – August 2018

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Where to eat LOOF COFFEE Drop by this quirky little spot in Norwood for coffee any way you like. From the chemex to the cold brew and the flat white to the cortado, the menu is a veritable coffee encyclopaedia. For a turbo-powered morning order the ‘espresso with attitude’. Also at Hallmark House in Maboneng.Q85 Iris Rd (cnr Grant Ave), Norwood, tel. +27 74 994 8099.

Open 06:15–18:30, Sat, Sun 07:00–18:30. L­B­S­W MOTHERLAND COFFEE CO T​ his is a popular workspace and meeting spot with more Macs on view than at the local Apple stockist. If size matters to you the coffee here, a blend of Ethiopian and Rwandan beans, is also available as a Mothercuppa (the famous extra large). Branches in Dunkeld, Parktown North and Sandton City too.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 8125, motherlandcoffee.com.

Open 07:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 06:00–18:00. B­S­W PRIEST ESPRESSOBAR The perfect coffee stop for exploring Parkwood’s Art Gallery Row. The petite coffee bar area is covered in a cool mural painted by local artist Peter Mammes, and daily specials are listed on a chalkboard wall. To the rear is a small gallery and courtyard hosting works by offbeat local artists. QK‑12, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 87 754 4032, priest.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–14:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B­S­W

If you are a fan of indulgent afternoon tea with plenty of sweet treats, Joburg won't disappoint.

54 ON BATH HOTEL At this stylish Rosebank hotel you'll enjoy a generous selection of savoury treats, delicate pastries, cakes and fluffy scones, with a fine loose leaf tea selection. Service is friendly and the fireplace suggests a romantic tea for two at Level Four restaurant.QK-12, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8401, 54onbath.com. Served 15:30– 17:30. Booking essential. Cost R260, or R300 p.p. for the Kir Royale accompaniment. Mon–Thu for groups of four or more, Fri–Sun tables available for two. U­LB HIGH TEA AT THE PALAZZO MONTECASINO High tea at Palazzo Montecasino is served at the hotel’s Medeo Restaurant where the elegant daily menu comprises a variety of cakes, petite quiches, assorted sandwiches and a fine selection of single origin Ceylon teas.QPalazzo Hotel Montecasino, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosun.com/the-palazzo-hotel.

Served from 14:00–17:00. Booking and pre-payment essential. Cost R245 p.p. U­L­B­W THE SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA One of Joburg's most exclusive hotels, tea here is served in the intimate lounge while you relax on a sofa. The Classic Tea balances savoury and sweet treats with finger sandwiches served on seed-filled bread. The beautifully presented sweets are topped with zingy fresh fruit flavours.

Service is relaxed and flawless. Enjoy a flavoured coffee or strong selection of classic teas.QK-9, The Saxon Hotel, 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, thesaxon. co.za. Served from 09:30–11:30, and 14:00–16:00. Cost R465 p.p. Sat afternoon tea with live music, R520 p.p.

The Saxon, Sandhurst

THE GRIND COFFEE COMPANY The upmarket shopping precinct Melrose Arch claims the most instagram-worthy coffee title for its signature Coffee in a Cone, a macchiato served in a chocolate lined ice-cream cone, at this small coffee bar located in a cycle shop. Or go for the nitro cold brew ‘Draught Coffee’ (out of a beer tap).

QM‑11, Whitely Rd, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 72 754 8705.

Open 06:30–18:00, Sat, Sun 07:30–16:00. U­L­B­S­W

HIGH TEA

28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat CHATEAU GATEAUX The refrigerator counter encases beautifully decorated pastries and cake slices, while the table overflows with freshly baked goods. Mouth-watering gateaux and pastries, along with savoury burekas and gourmet sandwiches are all on the menu. Our favourite items are the chocolate volcano, and treacly warm malva pudding. Everything can be elegantly packaged to take home.QL‑11, Thrupps Illovo Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 2211, chateaugateaux. co.za/patisserie.html. Open 07:30–18:00, Sun, public holidays 08:00–17:00. T­L­S­B CHOCOLOZA Vicky Bain’s chocolate shop is a revelation. Bain trained in Belgium and can be found in the store’s chocolate kitchen cooking up handcrafted beauties using only the finest ingredients and experimenting with unusual flavour combinations. With seven varieties of hot chocolate to choose from (you get to mix your own into a mug of steamed milk) and a roomy and sunny space in which to sample them, this is an excellent winter destination.QA‑1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 10 900 4892, chocoloza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. T­S PATACHOU PÂTISSERIE The counter windows at this authentic French patisserie, boulangerie and tea room make quick decision-making tough. From rich and densely layered almond croissants to choux pastry filled with almond praline cream, delicate fruit tartlets and savoury pastries, Patachou excels.

QJ‑12, 15 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 268 5702, patachou.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:30–16:30 and Sun 08:30–15:00. T­6LBS­W SHALIMAR DELIGHTS This place is a dizzying feast for the eyes, with counters full of delicious brightly coloured Indian sweetmeats made using traditional ingredients and lots of patience. Shalimar Delights is also a tightly packed supply store for a wide range of ingredients used by cooks of Indian cuisine. It's a must-visit stop on any exploration of the historic Indian neighbourhood of Fordsburg.QB‑5, 228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 832 1675, shalimardelights. com. Open 09:00–21:00. S THE PATISSERIE A favourite of the ladies who lunch, with its bold pink and white striped walls and small French-style tables The Patisserie always has an awesome display of pastries and cakes. Their meringues and macarons are stand-outs, and could even rival Paris's famous La Durée. There. We said it.

There's also a very tasty light meals menu. Our favourites are the fluffy scrambled eggs or the generous helping of salmon fish cakes with salad. Also at The Zone@Rosebank.

QL‑11, Post Office Centre Illovo, cnr Rudd Rd and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044, thepatisserie.co.za. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:30. Closed Sun. L­S facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

DELIS Our picks for when you feel like a home-cooked meal not made by you, or a picnic in the park on a sunny day.

The Leopard, Milpark

PATISSERIES

THE LEOPARD + KITCHEN + LARDER + CAN DO T​ he Leopard’s has a reputation for using the finest locally produced and sustainable ingredients. You'll find them here along with heat-up or just go-ahead-andserve meals so good you’ll want to claim you made them yourself. The range includes stuffed artichokes and ridiculously comforting macaroni cheese. Andrea Burgener’s Melville restaurant The Leopard was a Joburg institution before it closed so the family could find freedom from working at night but luckily you will find this Leopard is now open for early dinners on Friday evenings. Booking essential.QA-1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany. com. Open 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–17:30. LS­

SUPER SCONTO Super Sconto was once the heart of Joburg’s Little Italy. While the Italian community is no longer centred around this area the store remains a go-to destination.

This Italian food emporium has a superb range of pastas, cheeses and olive oils. Stray upstairs for a panini and espresso. Hot lunches are served from Tue to Fri, and from Mon to Sat there’s fresh homemade pizza.Q169171 Louis Botha Ave (cnr 5th St), Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 2669, supersconto.co.za. Open 08:30– 17:00, Sat 08:30–13:30, Sun 09:00–12:30. LS TORTELLINO D’ORO Bring a big budget to this family-run eatery and deli and elbow your way through the northern suburbs grande dames to stock up on pricey necessities like melanzane, spinach malfatti and an­chovy pâté. There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and a fine dessert selection to be enjoyed in the restaurant or taken home.QM‑12, Oaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, tortellino.co.za. Open 08:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 08:00–15:00. ­L­SB May 2018 – August 2018

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MEDITERRANEAN JOBURG Joburg may not be near the ocean but you are never far from a good Mediterranean-style meal. From superb homemade pastas to Greek souvlaki and Portuguese-style cod, you can find just about all you need without having to set sail.

ITALIAN The mining town that arose out of the veld in 1886 attracted people from across the globe in search of riches.

The origins of Joburg’s Italian community, for example, date back to 1867 when the discovery of diamonds in Kimberley brought Italian immigrants in search of a better life. Many skilled workers were later employed in making dynamite for the mines at a factory in Modderfontein just east of Joburg's mindefields. Families then settled in the suburb of Orange Grove, along Louis Botha Avenue, which until the late 1980s was known as Little Italy and was the place for Sunday afternoon gelati, good coffee and backgammon.

Today Little Italy is gone as people have resettled across the city but good Italian or Italian-influenced food can be found in many suburbs.

DA GRAZIELLA For authenticity this place is hard to beat. On Sunday afternoons Italian fam­ilies sit at long tables piled high with mouth-watering dishes. Run by a Sicilian brother and sister team, the service is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of choices on the menu. Start with a platter of roasted vegetables that include the Nastrini Piccanti Melanzane (brinjal ribbons with chilli) and move on from there to pasta or pizza, and excellent veal dishes with hearty sides. Da Graziella is a 40-minute drive east from central Sandton, near to O.R. Tambo International airport.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, dagraziella.co.za.

Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30.

Closed Mon. RRR. L­ 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

GEMELLI CUCINA BAR David Beckham's choice when he was last in town, this slick Italian restaurant is owned by Alessandro Mosupi Khojane, and inspired by his childhood (his father was an Ambassador to Italy). In the kitchen is chef Paulo Santo who has spent years in Gauteng’s Italian kitchens. The setting is an elegant loft-style space with a marble bar. The atmosphere is vibrant, the crowd cosmopolitan. Dishes are served with contemporary flair, rich in flavour and appearance.QShop 13, Posthouse Link Centre, Cnr Main Rd and Posthouse St, Bryanston, tel. +27 10 591 4333, gemellirestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–21:30, Wed–Sat 12:00–22:00 (Kitchen closes from 15:30–17:30). Corkage from R200. RRR. L­B­S­W STELLE Influenced by Northern Italian cuisine, and headed by chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero, Stelle is spacious with a large courtyard and garden. An upmarket setting the space is good for an intimate meal or a large group. Ask about the specials, seasonal dishes that include porcini mushrooms or artichokes when the time is right. The pastas are light and homemade and if you are a meat-eater try the shredded fillet with mushrooms or fettucine lamb ragu, both winning dishes. Service is friendly and the food and atmosphere dictate you should eat at an unhurried pace and save space for Graziero's delicate hand-crafted choux pastry selection.

Q61 Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, Sandton, tel. +27 11 646 6996, stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 11.30–15:00, 17:30– 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–22:30, Sun 11:30–16:00. Closed Mon. RR. Corkage from R50. L­B­ johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Gemelli, Bryanston

Where to eat

Where to eat Joburg's Hellenic community formally dates back to 1908, with immigrants having moved to the city from Greece and Cyprus. One of the most prominent members of this thriving community is George Bizos, a human rights lawyer who represented Nelson Mandela at the Rivonia Trial.

PAREA With your eyes closed the vibrant music and heady aromas from the kitchen will make you yearn for an island life. A lively taverna serving Joburg’s best Greek fare since 1993. The wide-ranging menu here includes a large selection of meze dishes, delicious roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare like kleftiko and souvlakias. From 21:00 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant hots up with belly-dancers and smashing crockery. For a quieter meal get there early.QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8785, parea.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. B­S SOUL SOUVLAKI There are fewer than a dozen chairs (most of them outside) and the kitchen is as compact as at their original branch in a Maboneng container, making for an intimate and supremely casual lunch environment. I​t’s a tough choice between the lamb, chicken or halloumi souvlaki, each prepared with tzatziki and salad in a freshly warmed pita.QK‑10, Shepherd Market, 339 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 79 467 7897. Open 11:00–19:00. R–RR. LB­S

PORTUGUESE & MOZAMBICAN The population of Portuguese-speaking people swelled in Joburg following the independence of Angola and Mozambique in 1975, and Portuguese food in Joburg has a strong and hot Mozambican influence.

1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. Authentic and family friendly, the kitchen closes early (20:30), but its worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawns and calamari.QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161.

Open for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon. RR. T­L PARREIRINHA Named after the little grapevine inside the restaurant, Par­ reirinha is an unpretentious spot, located in an old police station in south Joburg. Hundreds of men’s ties hang from the ceiling, adding character to what is already a colour­ ful place. The menus may be enclosed in a flip file, but the dishes are anything but ordinary. The flavoursome special­ity dishes such as the bacalhau (cod) and grilled prawns have plenty of Mozambican influence (spiced with gar­lic and chilli).Q9 6th St, La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809, restauranteparreirinha.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00.

Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50. L facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

PIZZA It's not difficult to find good pizza in Joburg, even though it's rare to find an Italian at the pizza oven.

South Africans' love of pizza includes a love of toppings and an obsession with adding avocado on to a hot pizza.

For a fast food option, Andiccio 24 offers takeaways and free deliveries, or you can eat at the store.

No one will judge you for choosing as many toppings as you like, all served on a thin and crispy base. We are huge fans, and the best thing? They are open 24 hours.

QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, andiccio24.co.za.

For an intimate pizza dinner, Ant Café on Melville’s lively 7th Street strip has the feel of a moodily-lit artist’s den that long predates Joburg’s hipster craze for curated vintage-chic. Try the famous lamb and mint combo. Reservations recom­ mended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00, Mon 13:00–24:00.

If you like your pizza with a secret bar, Coalition is your spot. Snuggle up to your fellow diners at this tiny pizza joint. The wood-fired pizzas are topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella, and offered in nine variations. The ‘secret’ cocktail bar is in the back.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 900 4987, coalitionpizza.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00, Tue, Wed 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. For a big table or an easy family meal Piza e Vino, with plenty of outdoor seating has pro service and two pizza sizes with some adventurous combinations. There is a menu for bambinos plus pasta, salads craft beers and a wine bar. Also in Rosebank.QM‑11, Melrose Piazza, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 2730, pizaevino. co.za. Open 11:30–22:00, Fri–Sat 11:30–23:00.

Ant Café, Melville

GREEK

May 2018 – August 2018

31

Che Argentine Grill, Maboneng

Where to eat

ON THE GRILL Joburg is meat-loving city. Grain-fed, lazy-aged prime cuts are the order of the day and at most places you can order a side of the popular local staple pap (maize meal) with tomato and onion gravy. Don’t be afraid of the ‘monkey gland sauce’, it is a just a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce with no monkey business. A large glass of red wine makes the perfect accompaniment and local vintages rarely disappoint.

STEAKHOUSES CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Leather saddles and a gigantic mural of gaucho life adorn the walls of this atmospheric old warehouse. The place is moodily lit by the glow from the wood-fired parrilla on which Argentine-style steaks are cooked. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce and leave space for silky dulce de leche dessert.QG‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:00, Sun 12:00–19:00. Closed Mon. RRR. I­L­E­B THE LOCAL GRILL A shrine to red meat, devotees can enter the meat locker to choose from lazy dry or wet aged meat or ribs. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef cows.

Seared salmon is also a menu favourite and vegetarians are made to feel welcome. The Local Grill also showcases local wines.QJ‑12, Cnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:00– 15:00, dinner 18:00–22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. T­L­B TURN N TENDER This steakhouse chain is popular for its consistently tasty basted steaks and excellent sides. The atmosphere is lively and easy-going, and swift service is accompanied with a smile. Your steak will arrive sizzling, and there's a respectable offering for fish-eaters and vegetarians plus great value weekday lunch deals.QJ‑12, Parktown Quarter, 22 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, turnntender. co.za. Open 11:30–21:00. RRR. Corkage R40. U­L­B­ 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

WOMBLES ‘Welcome home’ is how you’ll be greeted at this Joburg institution, with a history dating back to 1984. Step through the courtyard gate into a refined and genteel atmosphere, with decor that suggests a grand safari lodge, filled with antiques, Persian rugs, fireplaces and comfortable couches.

Wombles makes eating an occasion with excellent food, service and ambience. You’ll feel equally at home enjoying a romantic dinner or entertaining clients.QHobart Grove Shopping Centre, 88 Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 880 2470/​+27 11 463 8558, wombles.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:30, Sat dinner only.

Closed Sun. Last orders for starters and mains 21:30 (last drinks/dessert orders 23:30). RRR. U­I­L­B­W

SHISA NYAMA Shisa nyama is a Zulu word – literally meaning ‘burn meat’ – used to describe a popular ‘buy-and-braai’ style of venue found across South Africa. Here you choose your meat from the butchery and then have it barbecued to your exact specifications. Many township shisa nyama, such as Soweto’s legendary Chaf Pozi, create a weekend party atmosphere with DJs and a bar, whilst others such as Maboneng’s Sha'p Braai cater to the urban workforce on their lunch break. It's also a style of cooking commonly found at township car washes.

SHA'P BRAAI A quirky little braai (barbecue) stand in the middle of fashionable Maboneng. If it’s not the delicious meaty smoke wafting through the streets that draws you into this converted shipping container, then the great tunes on the ghetto blaster might do it. Seating is on upcycled beer crates and the shisa nyama style food is made to order straight from the butcher counter with a choice of tasty sides. There’s also a small adjoining bar with sport on the TV.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St, cnr Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open 10:00–22:00. R. N­B­S johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so they opened this burger joint that serves burgers three ways: the cheeseburger, hamburger or the lettuce-wrapped 'Cardio' version.

For the very hungry, order the double patty or try the frozen custard for dessert. Ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns and basic toppings is the simple formula which make BGR’s burgers a hit. Service is friendly and for under R100 you can add crispy french fries and a drink.QK‑12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545/+27 84 838 5959, eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30. R-RR. B­ST­ JERRY’S BURGER BAR This Cape Town burger chain has cheeky decor and uniforms inspired by a bottle of rum and tattooed sailors. You don’t need to be a fan of either to enjoy Jerry’s classic pure meaty goodness burgers which include some innovative variations such as the ramen noodle bun burger. We love the sweet potato fries. Also in Illovo.Q26 Gleneagles Dr, Greenside, tel. +27 10 140 5744, jerrysburgerbar.co.za.

Open 10:00–22:00. RR. Corkage R40. T­U­I­S­W ROCOMAMAS Tasty beef burgers with exceptional toppings, among them saffron chilli chutney, brinjal pickle and smoked mayo. There are also outstanding ribs and chicken wings to be ordered in great quantities. A sit-down fast-food joint with a lively atmosphere and good service, Rocomamas has a number of branches including at Melrose Arch and The Zone@Rosebank.QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, Shop 109, cnr Maude and 5th Sts, tel. +27 10 612 0117, rocomamas.com. Open Sun–Thu 10:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–23:00. R. T­U­

CHICKEN BABA G: ROTISSERIE AND DELI Named for the Middle Eastern aubergine dish babaganoush, this small rotisserie chicken takeaway spot specialises in Afro-Mediterranean flavours. Choose one of three varieties of rotisserie chicken; and pair it with a selection of salads and super soft ‘pillow breads’ made fresh with your order, or alternatively order a takeaway chicken wrap.

If you can’t wait to get home there’s a counter in the store at which to eat.QL‑11, Post Office Centre, 30 Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5412, babag.co.za. Open 11:00– 20:00, Sat 11:00–15:00. Closed Sun. R. U­L­S­W ROSTO Italian street food is the inspiration behind the main dish here, flavoursome rotisserie chicken pulsed with 1100 degrees of smoky heat and served in three variations – sundried tomato, Mediterranean herbs and lemon, or herbs. There are also plenty of other wholesome Italian dishes on the menu.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 0369, eatrosto.com. Open 12:00–22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00– 22:00, Tue 17:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. Corkage R50.

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MEXICAN Joburg likes Mexican-style food which accounts for the rash of lively joints that serve food inspired by south of the US border. While decor plays a role, there's no doubt the margaritas often account for the atmosphere.

BAHA TACO This casual taqueria specialising in Mexican street food is where you’ll find a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with tasty bites of skirt steak, prawns, halloumi or pulled pork. Every dish is freshly prepared and full of spicy goodness. Finish the meal with churros and velvety chocolate sauce. The adjoining cantina awaits for margaritas, craft beers and South African craft tequilas.

QShop 3 Tarquin House, 38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 76 694 7400. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 11:00– 20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. S MAMA MEXICANA Two friends spent literally two years at a market stall perfecting their delicious nachos, burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas and enchiladas. They decided it was worth a full-time gig and opened a restaurant. A laidback place, service can dip when its super busy. The prices are mild and spicy food is on request.QG‑5, 264 Fox St (Arts on Main), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 1982 or +27 72 410 1281. Open 10:00– 21:00. Closed Sun–Tue. R. PERRON This colourful homegrown Mexican restaurant has a reputation for its lively atmosphere and excellent tequila selection. Enjoy small plates of tacos, empanandas and chilli cheese poppers, and for mains try the spicy pork belly. You can find branches in Illovo Junction and Bryanston.Q65 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1215, perron.co.za. Open 17:00–22:00, Thu 12:00–15:00, 17:00–22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. BW

Perron, Melville

BURGER BARS

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Style capital

DISCOVER BRAAMFONTEIN A day (or night) spent exploring Braam’s lively streets is one of the best ways to get a taste for Joburg’s fast-paced urban regeneration and the creative and ambitious energy that is transforming this city.

One of Joburg’s most vibrant examples of inner city regeneration, the student district of Braamfontein (or simply ‘Braam’ as locals know it) is defined by edgy galleries, abundant street art, busy nightlife, shopping, café culture and an addictive creative energy that attracts a youthful alternative crowd at any hour of the day.

Braamfontein’s incredible transformation from the urban decay that defined Joburg’s late 1990s to the buzzing example of integrated African city life that it is today has seen it labelled by the international press as Joburg’s ‘hipster capital’. And once you get compared to Brooklyn’s Williamsburg or London’s East End (New York Times), you know you’ve truly arrived.

The easiest way to access Braamfontein by public transport is by taking the Gautrain to Park Station or if using the City Sightseeing bus hop off at The Devonshire Hotel.

From here it’s a short walk to Juta Street to start the morning with the finest German pastries from the tiny Black Forest Bakery. One of Braamfontein's longest running businesses, the counter has been staffed by the indomitable Maisie for more than 35 years and many of her customers have been buying their daily bread here for just as long.

The recently restored 99 Juta building is nearby, an interior design hub housing the showrooms of leading South African design brands Dokter and Misses and UrbanNative.

Barely two years ago the building was illegally squatted and in such a poor state that everything bar the staircase and four external walls had to be stripped out. Wander around this cool pink and turquoise Miami Art deco-styled building and you quickly get a sense of Braam’s ambitious spirit and the dreamers who are reinventing the neighbourhood.

From here walk down Juta Street to The Grove (cnr Juta, Melle and De Korte Sts) a colourful public square that has been carved out of a city block by local property developers South Point, which has spearheaded much of Braamfontein’s regeneration. Café culture rules with a Turkish bakery Galata, serving one of the best value break34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

fasts in town, a cycling themed café Velo, and the popular pizzeria 86 Public all spilling out onto the square. On the corner facing The Grove is where you'll find Doubleshot coffee roasters, a friendly corner café, also known for fantastic home-brewed organic ice tea.

Looking out over the square is Once in Joburg, a cool ‘flashpackers’ hostel and budget hotel which also has its own bar The Immigrant where you can stop for a craft beer.

Pass through the passageway linking The Grove square to De Korte Street and make sure to stop in at Fortiscue and Nokuthula Helepi’s African Flavour Books to stock up on some local literature (90% of the books on sale are

by African authors), before crossing the road to Reserve Street, another new pedestrianised development initiated

by South Point. Current tenants include Relay jeans' supercool concept ‘denim bar’, while art exhibition spaces and quirky bars are also on their way. If you are looking for a snack or a quick and filling lunch drop into R Jana’s on the corner, a simple family-run Indian diner and takeaway that has been serving bunny chows, biriyanis and samoosas to Braamfontein’s students for decades.

A few doors down sneaker junkies visit the Converse or Puma Select concept stores and X-Trend for the latest limited-edition sneaker ‘drops’. Continue down De Korte Street and as you pass The Orbit, Joburg’s much loved jazz club, browse the schedule for the week’s gigs (a night out here is a Joburg must-do). The Orbit’s bistro downstairs is a great place for an elegant lunch or dinner and an added bonus is that you can shop for all the latest jazz albums here.

Where De Korte hits the main thoroughfare Jan Smuts Ave turn right and head one block up to visit Wits Art Museum. One of the city’s best art galleries WAM hosts regular temporary exhibitions by major historic and contemporary African artists and the adjoining cafeteria-style café Olives & Plates is a great value place for a quick lunch.

Leaving the museum head back down Jan Smuts Avenue in the direction of the iconic Nelson Mandela bridge johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

DIRECTORY BLACK FOREST BAKERYQ107 Juta St, blackforestbakery.co.za. Open 07:00–16:30, Sat 06:00–12:30.

GALATA BAKERY & COFFEEQThe Grove. Open 07:00–20:00.

86 PUBLICQThe Grove, 86public.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:00.

DOUBLESHOT COFFEE & TEAQCnr Juta and Melle Sts, doubleshot.co.za. Open 07:45–16:30.

THE IMMIGRANTQThe Grove. Open 07:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30–01:00.

R JANA'S 87 De Korte St. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00– 13:00. Closed Sun. THE ORBITQ81 De Korte St, theorbit.co.za. Open 16:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 16:30–23:00 (the club stays open later for gigs). Closed Mon. WITS ART MUSEUM OLIVES & PLATESQCnr Jan Smuts Ave and Jorissen St, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. KITCHENER'SQ71 Juta St, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–03:30, Sun, Mon 10:00–01:00.

GREAT DANEQ5 De Beer St. Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00.

POSTQ70 Juta St, post-bl.tumblr.com. Open 06:30– 16:00, Sat, public holidays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. THE BANNISTER HOTEL BARQ9 De Beer St, bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 06:30–21:30, Thu 06:30–23:30, Fri, Sat 06:30–02:00.

UNWRAPPEDQ70 Juta St. Open 07:00–18:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. Closed Sun. THE SMOKEHOUSE & GRILLQ73 Juta St, thesmokehouseandgrill.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. THE WING REPUBLICQ6 De Beer St. Open 06:00– 19:00, 06:00–23:00, Mon–Wed 06:00–19:00. Closed Sun. FATHER COFFEEQ73 Juta St, fathercoffee.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. NEIGHBOURGOODSQ73 Juta St, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00.

REPUBLIC OF 94Q94 Juta St. Open 12:30–02:00, Sun 12:30–23:00. Closed Mon–Wed.

The Grove, Braamfontein

and take a left on Juta Street where you’ll find yet more art galleries including Stevenson, Assemblage and Kalashnikovv, all known for their edgy exhibitions that showcase the works of exciting contemporary African artists.

At the corner of Juta and De Beer streets is Kitchener’s Carvery Bar, one of the neighbourhood’s oldest buildings. Opened in 1898 as the Hansa Bar and Hotel, during the Anglo-Boer War this was a popular drinking hole for British army officers. The pub was renamed for a crucial 1902 meeting that happened here between Lord Milner and Lord Kitchener. The building next door, now the Great Dane bar, also dates back to the Victorian era when it was used as a stable. Both venues are among Braam’s busiest late night spots, popular with an alternative, hard-partying student crowd who come to hear DJs spinning everything from house to old school hip hop.

As elsewhere in this eclectic neighbourhood the historic is strikingly juxtaposed with the contemporary. Look up to see a huge purple mural of a smiling Nelson Mandela

by Shepard Fairey, while the alleway that runs adjacent to Juta Street behind Great Dane is filled with graffiti murals by artists from around the country.

Across the street there are plenty of places to make a pit stop. For healthy breakfasts, lunches or a smoothie try Unwrapped or Post. If you are after late night eats The Bannister Hotel stays open long past everybody else’s bedtime and also serves good sushi, and if you like meat there’s the Smokehouse Grill or The Wing Republic.

For coffee head to hispter roastery Father Coffee where you can also buy their signature roasts (stylishly packaged) to take home. On Saturdays the city flocks to the rooftop Neighbourgoods Market that looks over this bustling corner for an extensive choice of food stalls and craft beer stands as well as live music and vintage clothing retailers.

From here make your way back up Juta Street, passing cult streetwear stores Dip Street and Anatomy and end your stroll back near the start with a drink at Republic of 94. Choose to sit at the bar counter inside (one of the longest in the city) and catch up on sport on TV, or find a sunny spot in the huge beer garden in the rear courtyard.

Whatever you do, Braam will welcome you.

(See map on page 64–65).

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May 2018 – August 2018

35

Marabi Club, Maboneng

Nightlife

BAR-HOPPING IN MABONENG Converted from rundown industrial warehouses and factories to a happening inner-city lifestyle playground, the hip Maboneng Precinct is an ideal venue for a weekend bar crawl.

Start your evening with ice-cold jam jar cocktails at The Hideout (302 Fox St). Part of the laidback and super-friendly backpackers hostel Curiocity, the bar is named for an antiapartheid printing press that once clandestinely operated from the premises.

Alternatively make your way up to the top of the Situation East building (308 Fox St). The rooftop bar here (also run by the Curiocity team) is arguably one of the best places in the neighbourhood to watch the sun setting over Joburg's iconic skyscrapers. On the opposite side of the road you’ll find Che Argentine Grill, one of Joburg’s most atmospheric steakhouses and the adjoining cocktail bar Al Lado (303 Fox St). Kick-start your evening here with some especially good rum cocktails or a glass of Argentinian Malbec.

On the next block down Fox Street (corner Albrecht and Betty Sts) is the distinctive Maverick Corner development, constructed from shipping containers. This is Maboneng’s late night party hub with the outdoor cocktail bar Shakers, located in a courtyard in the centre of the block, attracting rowdy crowds on weekends. If you prefer something marginally quieter there’s the pocket-sized Love Revo cafébar, a very popular hangout for locals who live in the area.

Bang in the middle of Maboneng at 286 Fox Street is Main Street Life, one of the first buildings to be redeveloped in the area. Check out the edgy theatre productions at the small independent theatre POP Art or catch the latest stand-up comedy every Sunday at 19:00. Next door is The Bioscope independent cinema, known for promoting new African films, arthouse films and documentaries. The cinema's adjoining café-bar Chalkboard Café is the perfect place to stop for a craft beer or glass of wine before or after and you can catch the latest football matches screened on a projector in the back.

Upstairs on the sixth floor of the Main Street Life building (entrance via Kruger Street) is Living Room. A little garden in 36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

the sky that offers superb city views, this is another popular sundowner hotspot, particularly on Sunday afternoons.

Other bars that are worth checking out in the surrounding area include The Nine Barrels wine bar (see Wine Bars on page 39) which shares space with The AGOG art gallery, and The Marabi Club at Hallmark House (47 Sivewright Ave), a bar restaurant and jazz club that is inspired by 1920s and 1930s Joburg. The Marabi club hosts regular pop-up kitchens led by leading local chefs and is known for its fabulous atmosphere. Advanced dinner booking is essential. A five-minute drive from the centre of Maboneng, we advise booking an Uber to get you there after dark.

THE HIDEOUTQTel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocity.africa.

Open 07:00–22:00.

SITUATION EASTQTel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 15:00–22:00. Closed Mon Tue. AL LADOQTel. +27 11 614 0140. Open 11:00–02:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. SHAKERSQTel. +27 83 351 3524. Open 12:00–02:00, Fri–Sun 10:00–02:00. Closed Mon. LOVE REVOQOpen 11:00–22:00.

POP ART THEATREQTel. +27 83 245 1040, popartcentre.co.za.

THE BIOSCOPEQTel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope. co.za CHALKBOARD CAFÉQTel +27 11 039 7306, chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 11:00–23:00.

LIVING ROOMQTel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi. co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission R50–R80.

THE MARABI CLUBQTel. +27 10 591 2872, themarabiclub.com. Open 18:30–24:00, Sun 12:00–17:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

81 de Korte Street Braamfontein Tel: +27 (0)11 339 66 45 E-mail: info@theorbit.co.za www.theorbit.co.za Image: Siphiwe Mhlambi

CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC AND CLUB A gritty inner-city location hides this dark and moody house, techno and drum and bass club. A place for serious clubbers, there’s a strict ‘phone off, party on’ policy.QB‑4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, andclub.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 21:00–04:00. B BABYLON – THE BAR This pumping gay club welcomes all – gays, straights, lesbians and the undecided. Next door is the fun and camp cabaret bar and burger joint Beefcakes.QL‑11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3215, babylonthebar.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 20:00–04:00.

THE GOOD LUCK BAR This spacious old warehouse in 1 Fox Precinct is one of Joburg’s most atmo­spheric live music venues. Weekend gigs (check the schedule on Facebook) feature everything from folk to Afrobeat.QB‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, goodluckbar.co.za.

TABOO This swanky Sandton nightclub with a smart dress code fills up with the pumping sounds of top local and international house DJs.QM‑8, 24 Central, cnr Fredman Drv and Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2200, taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00. L­B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

THE ORBIT JAZZ CLUB AND BISTRO All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience at this highly respected jazz club with a packed weekly programme. A slick bistro greets you downstairs, while up­stairs the bar and a stage surrounded by tables await – reservations for these are advised. As well as jazz gigs, The Orbit also hosts regular events such as En Fuego salsa night with a live salsa band and the fascinating Science & Cocktails evenings. Check out the weekly concert schedule on The Orbit website.

QC‑3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit.co.za. Performances Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. Tickets from R60, students half price . E­B­K UNDERGROUND PUB CRAWLS Youthful, hip and energetic, Bheki Dube and his crew from Curiocity backpackers are the best people to lead you on a guided pub tour of Maboneng and the surrounding area. The underground pub crawls leave from the backpackers every Friday and Saturday at 20:00 depending on demand (prior booking is essential) heading out to some of Maboneng’s most popular hotspots and onwards to lesser known historic bars in the surrounding neighbourhoods of Troyeville and Fairview. Cost R350 (R300 for Curiocity guests).QTel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocity.africa.

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MEET THE MAKERS Tour an inner-city micro-brewery, meet Soweto's pioneering township craft brewers, book a craft gin and rum tasting at a local distillery or pay a visit to Joburg's first winery .

You don’t need to go out of your way to find great local craft brews in Joburg – this city has plenty of micro-breweries producing some of the finest craft beers in the country. You can also find some excellent craft gins being produced in Joburg and the city now even has its own winery. Here's our guide to where to meet the makers in Joburg.

GERAKARIS FAMILY WINES NEW Joburg’s very first winery is found in the lush surrounds of the REEA Foundation’s urban farm overlooking the green expanse of Delta Park. Founded by New Zealander Kath Gerakaris, this is a 'garagiste' winery. The grapes all come directly from the Swartland region of the Cape and are then crushed, fermented, aged and bottled on site here in Joburg. The winery currently produces a syrah and two chenin blancs which can all be sampled and bought at the delightful on-site tasting room overlooking the park.Q20 Marlborough Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 72 638 7636, gerakaris.co.za. Open 12:00–17:00, Sat 12:00–15:00, Sun 11:00–14:00. Closed Mon, Tue. B­T­L IMPI BREWING CO NEW Inspired by the Zulu name for a warrior, Impi currently produce two craft beers – the namesake Warrior Pilsner and the easy drinking Homestead Lager which go perfectly with a menu of wood-fired pizzas. Located in the upcoming Victoria Yards development, a formerly derelict industrial space in the east of the city that is now home 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

to artist studios and galleries, the brewery is worth a visit even if beer isn’t your choice of drink. The colourful decor of the triple volume space is a quirky mix that continues the proud Zulu theme with ceremonial headdresses and centuries old spears hanging on the walls and a bar counter made from beer crates.Q16 Viljoen St, Victoria Yards, Lorentzville, tel. +27 66 207 1895, impibrewingco. com. Open Wed 12:00–20:00, Thu 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–02:00, Sun 11:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. B­L MAD GIANT This stand-out brewery is part of the downtown 1 Fox Precinct, a collection of rede­signed century-old warehouses housing a variety of eye-catching venues. The brewery shares space with the cel­ebrated Urbanologi restaurant (see Where to Eat) and out front there’s a spacious and sunny beer garden with a grill serving tasty burgers. Brewery tours can be arranged and there’s plenty of cool Mad Giant branded merchandise on sale in the attached bottle shop. Among Mad Giant's signature brews our favourite is the crisp hoppy pilsner The Guzzler. The brewery also produces a host of limited-edition special brews such as porterhouse ales and weiss beers which should excite craft beer aficionados.QB‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St (parking at 14 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, madgiant.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00 (kitchen closes at 21:00), Sat 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–16:30.

Brewery tours by appointment only. U­L­E­B johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Impi Brewing Co, Lorentzville

Nightlife

Nightlife WINE BARS

TIME ANCHOR DISTILLERY Joburg’s first craft gin and rum distillery is located in a small warehouse on the edge of the city's Maboneng district and is a two-person operation run by Warrick and Shanna-Rae who juggle their passion for distillation and alchemy with corporate careers. On a visit to the small distillery (by appointment only) you’ll be taken through the gin distillation process before embarking on a tasting session where you can try their signature London Dry and pink gins as well as some of their limited edition creations which include sloe gin, ‘gincello’ and a variety of rums.

QF-4, Aerial Empire, 7 Sivewright Ave, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 495 1983, timeanchor.co.za.

ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this wine bar and café with a casual low-key atmosphere has a superb selection of South African boutique wines. Labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events.QK‑11, Albans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 10 300 5931, acepearl.com. Open Open 11:00– 22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. ­L

UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN Founded in 2012 by engineer Ndumiso Madala, Soweto Gold was South Africa’s first township brewery. In late 2017 global giant Heineken bought the brand and have worked with the founder to develop a new entry-level mass-produced beer, Superior Golden Lager, which can be bought at shebeens across Soweto. At the original craft brewery at Ubuntu Kraal Kasi Beer Garden (located a few blocks from famous Vilakazi Street) they still brew the original craft micro-brews that first brought Soweto Gold nationwide fame – a craft lager, cherry ale, apple ale and ‘Gogo’s’ alcoholic ginger beer. The Soweto Gold T-shirts on sale at the brewery also make cool souvenirs.Q11346 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext. Soweto, tel. +27 76 706 9823, sowetogold.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Fri– Sun 08:00 until late. U­L­E­B­S­W

Le Wine Chambre, Illovo

OAKES BREW HOUSE AND ROASTERY This all-female run brewery sits under a giant oak tree on the grounds of an attractive old manor house in historic Modderfontein, a serene, green neighbourhood halfway between Sandton and O.R. Tambo airport. Choose from an easy-drinking American Pale Ale, Pilsner-style lager or the dark and strong Butt Stout or alternatively sample Oakes coffee which is made from their own roasted coffee beans. The adjoining 33 High Street restaurant is a great lunch stop and a popular place for families with a dedicated play area for kids.QCnr Main Rd and High St, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 458 6018, oakesbrewhouse.co.za.

Open 06:30–16:00, Sat 07:00–14:30, Sun 07:00–13:00.

T­U­L­E­B­S­W

LE WINE CHAMBRE NEW A quiet little spot on Illovo Junction’s popular restaurant strip, the upmarket menu showcases around 16 different varietals with bottles from both established and lesser known Cape boutique wine makers. There are also plenty of wines available as taster sizes and by the glass.QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5886, lwcillovo.com. Open 11:30–22:30, Sun 11:30– 21:30. Closed Mon. U­LE­B THE NINE BARRELS A downtown wine and tapas bar sharing space with a contemporary art gallery and a rooftop whisky bar. The meticulously crafted wine menu showcases excellent local boutique wines not usually found in stores.QG‑4, The AGOG, 12 Lower Ross St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 458 5350, theninebarrels.com. Open 11:00–02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–21:30.

Closed Mon, Tue. L­E­B

get a taste of the true Joha n n esburg

bannisterhotel.com 9 de Beer Street Braamfontein 011 403 6888

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May 2018 – August 2018

39

Nightlife COCKTAILS

Blind Tiger, Parkview

BLIND TIGER CAFÉ Step through the door on Parkview’s village-like high street into a bar and restaurant that conjures the glamorous and swinging 1920s with cocktails inspired by Fitzgerald’s age-defining novel The Great Gatsby. A popular after work hangout too, the friendly barmen will remember you for next time.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 76 030 4200, blindtiger.co.za. Open 15:00–24:00, Fri 11:00– 24:00, Sat 09:00–24:00. Closed Sun. U­­B­W

SUNDOWNERS WITH A VIEW 5101 NEW Run by local tour company and social enterprise Dlala Nje (see p.47), this sky-high bar is located in a converted apartment on the 51st floor of the iconic Ponte building.QPonte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea.

Advanced bookings are required, call +27 72 397 2269 or email info@dlalanje.org. L THE GRILLHOUSE SANDTON In the heart of Sandton Central’s business district this upmarket steakhouse has an expansive bar and terrace with panoramic views of the northern suburbs. On Thursdays and Fridays it's packed with the after-work crowd.QL-9, 11 Alice Lane, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 6132, thegrillhouse. co.za/grillhouse-sandton. Open 11:00–22:00. BL FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF The expansive Flames terrace at one of Joburg's most famous luxury hotels is one of the most memorable places for sundowners in glamorous surroundings with an unparalleled 180-degree view over the city's urban forest.

Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6190, flamesrestaurant.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. E­BL LIVING ROOM This rooftop café-bar in Maboneng offers a bird's-eye urban view of the downtown skyscrapers. It’s at its liveliest on Sunday afternoons when the rooftop fills up with the local cool kids for the Sundays in the Living Room sundowner party.Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi. co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission R50–R80. B 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MIX COCKTAIL BAR Join the sophisticated business set at this sexy cocktail lounge on the first floor of the Trumpet building on the art and design inspired Keyes Art Mile. A new cocktail debuts on the menu each month, using a classic recipe as a base and given a twist. Savour your drink with a fabulous view over Joburg’s tree-filled suburbs from the large terrace or admire the striking contemporary artworks inside.QK‑12, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, mixbar. co.za. Open 16:00 until late. Closed Sun, Mon. B­W MOOTEE NEW At this African-inspired cocktail bar everything on the menu makes use of unusual African flavours and ingredients from fynbos to pineapple beer. The illustrated menu lists 12 signature cocktails, outlined according to flavour notes and ‘intentions’ (such as ‘to feel courage’). It would be a faux pas to ask for the ingredients list. Low lighting and a jazzy funk soundtrack make for a sophisticated date night venue.Q78a 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 10 900 1399, mootee.co.za. Open Tue 16:00–23:00, Wed–Thu 16:00–24:00, Fri 16:00–02:00, Sat 12:00–02:00, Sun 12:00–23:00. B SIN & TAX Having to supply a password to enter through a secret door which seems to change its location every other week may seem a little pretentious, but then it wouldn’t be a speakeasy if it was easy to get in. The themed menus, with names like Amber and Gardenia, change with the seasons and while the drinks take time to prepare, it’s fun to watch the mixologists get to work. If you battle to locate the way in, have a drink at the small Speak No Evil bar next to Coalition pizzeria and watch where the more smartly dressed punters go.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd (cnr Jan Smuts Ave), Rosebank, tel. +27 64 201 8310. Open 18:00–01:00. Closed Sun, Mon. L­B TONIC A welcoming and unpretentious spot in the up-and-coming suburb of Linden specialising in craft gins and tonics.

Opt for a classic G&T with one of a number of local and imported craft gins or try the quirky cocktails like the D’Light, a combination of Musgrave pink gin, tonic and Turkish delight.Q32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 87 238 4623, tonic. joburg. Open 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00–23:00, Sat 12:00– 23:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ­U­E­B­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Bannister Hotel, Braamfontein

Nightlife

BARS & PUBS THE BANNISTER HOTEL In the heart of Braamfontein’s party strip the Bannister Hotel’s breezy bar and bistro is a great place to sit and soak up the buzz of this most happening neighbourhood (grab a bar stool at the counter overlooking the street). In the basement you’ll find the intimate Goliath Comedy Club where stand-up comedians perform four nights a week (tickets cost R80 and include a cider). See Goliath Comedy Club on Facebook for the week’s line-up.Q9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel. com. Open 11:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00. Comedy club open Wed–Sat, gigs starts at 20:00.

THE BRAZEN HEAD SANDTON Snug and cosy on the inside, nice and breezy on the outside with a wide open terrace stretching right around the building. The look is old-fashioned Anglo/Irish boozer with dark wood, low lights and pewter tankards on display and the atmosphere fairly accurately reflects the British pub tradition.

QCnr Linden Rd and Anne Crescent, Strathavon, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 6122, brazenhead.co.za/the-brazenhead-sandton. Open 10:00 until late, Sat–Sun from 11:00.

The bar stays open until as late as 02:00 if busy. E­BL PARLIAMENT A rooftop gastropub with sunset views over Sandton and TVs showing all the big sports games. Not a late-night kind of place, which is for the best considering the steep spiral staircase you have to navigate to get up there.QL‑8, Cnr Victoria Ave and 11th St, Benmore, tel. +27 11 783 1467, parliamentrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Mon 16:00–23:00. Closed Sun. B­W THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhood has seen bet­ ter days, this historic pub, which traces its history back to 1929 when it opened as a tea room and illicit shebeen, still brims with warmth and char­acter. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

bar only add to the unique charm.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za.

Open 10:00–24:00, Sun 11:00–17:00. E THE TAPHOUSE Genial bar staff, classic pub fare, sports on the TV and a little bar counter which opens straight onto the street combine to create an inviting and relaxed pub-like atmosphere that is considerably calmer than the notoriously hedonistic neighbouring pubs.QJ‑12, Cnr 4th Ave and 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 026 8968, thetaphouse.co.za. Open 16:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–02:00, Sun 11:00–21:00. Closed Mon. B ZOO LAKE BOWLS CLUB This historic sports club has long been a mainstay for regular fans of South African and European league football. After controversially closing down a few years ago, in 2017 the club reopened under new management and is slowly rebuilding a dedicated base of sports fans. The barn-like main bar area has a huge projector screen and there are other smaller TVs dotted around the club meaning you're never far from the action.QPrincess of Wales Terrace, Zoo Lake, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 486 0843, facebook.com/BowlsZooLake. Open 09:00–23:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. E­BLW FIFA WORLD CUP 2018 Although South Africa's Bafana Bafana have failed to even qualify, the FIFA World Cup is still one of the world’s greatest sporting events and if you are a football fan then you won’t want to miss a game. The 2018 tournament kicks off in Russia from June 14 to July 15 and the time difference generally favours South African viewers with the majority of games taking place in Western Russia which is one hour ahead of South African time. Kaliningrad is in the same time zone as South Africa, while Samara is two hours ahead and Yekaterinburg is three hours ahead. Check out our online feature at johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for a guide to the best places to watch the game.

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M A N D E L A’ S J O B U R G With South Africa currently celebrating Nelson Mandela’s centenary year, no visit to Joburg would be complete without a stop at least one of the many places associated with his remarkable life.

Joburg is a city that is indelibly associated with the incredible life of Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, fondly known to South Africans as Madiba. Here he first found his feet as an anti-apartheid activist and began the brave struggle against discrimination that would eventually lead him to the Rivonia trial and prison on Robben Island.

Following 27 years behind bars, Nelson Mandela was eventually released in 1990. He again made Joburg his home, as a free man, becoming South Africa’s first democratically elected president on April 27 1994 (a date now commemorated as Freedom Day). Until his death on 5 December 2013, Mandela continued to divide his time between his Joburg home in the leafy suburb of Houghton (also the headquarters of the Nelson Mandela Foundation) and the village of Qunu in the Eastern Cape.

ALEXANDRA The most famous heritage site of this historic township known locally as Alex is Nelson Mandela’s first home in Joburg – a room house he rented on 7th Avenue where he stayed after arriving in the city, aged 23. Mandela described life in the impoverished township as “exhilarating and precarious” and for a man used to the rural Eastern Cape it was an eye-opening experience. Gangsterism and poverty was rife, but there was also a palpable sense of political consciousness and a solidarity that transcended ethnic and tribal distinctions. Mandela’s old room, which is still rented out today, is marked only by a blue plaque and plans have been in place for years to develop the area 42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

surrounding the house into a formal tourist attraction, although sadly nothing has come to fruition. That said taking a guided tour (it is not recommended to explore Alex on your own) is a fascinating experience that offers a very different snapshot of township life than Soweto. Recommended tour guides include local cycling enthusiast Jeff Mulaudzi’s Buvhi Tours (tel. +27 71 279 3654, alexandratours.co.za, tours from R450).

CHANCELLOR HOUSE It is from this building in historic Ferreirasdorp in the west of the city centre that Nelson Mandela and Oliver Tambo ran the city's first black-owned legal practice in the 1950s. The building has since been transformed into an open-air museum with insightful window displays detailing the work they carried out here fighting the petty restrictions on everyday life suffered by the city’s black, coloured and Indian population. Opposite Chancellor House and standing in front of the Johannesburg Magistrates Court where Mandela fought his cases, is an impressive six-metre high statue erected in 2013 of a young Mandela shadow boxing. Created by sculptor Marco Cianfanelli it was inspired by a photograph taken by Drum photographer Bob Gosani of Nelson Mandela (an avid boxer) sparring with Jerry Moloi on a downtown rooftop in 1952. Mandela's words are etched along the statue's plinth: “In the ring, rank, age, colour, and wealth are irrelevant” and on his death the site became a shrine to his memory. It's also a popular selfie spot. QC‑5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shadow Boxing by Justin Lee

Madiba's footsteps

THE OLD FORT Nelson Mandela was briefly imprisoned in the Old Fort at Constitution Hill after he was arrested in 1956 and accused of treason. Mandela and 155 other key activists were detained in the Fort's communal cells, an experience that Mandela quipped in his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom was "the largest and longest unbanned meeting of the Congress Alliance in years". In the 1990s the prison complex was converted into a museum and the area is named for the modern South African Constitutional Court (built using the bricks from some of the old prison blocks) which is also situated here. The cell that Nelson Mandela occupied inside the Old Fort (the oldest section of the prison established in 1893) now houses a permanent exhibition detailing his experiences of imprisonment here and on Robben Island. The exhibition is complemented by original copies of his prison diaries and excerpts from his original manuscript for Long Walk To Freedom. Visitors can book for Constitution Hill's special Walk with Madiba tour of the complex, which details his inspirational life story from his early activism to his years as South Africa's first democratically elected President.QB-2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org. za. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission to museum areas R65, kids, students R30, pensioners R45 (includes optional one-hour guided tour), admission plus two-hour guided tour R85, kids, students R55, pensioners R60.

Discounts available for groups and visitors using the City Sightseeing red bus.

SOWETO Probably the most famous street in all of Soweto, Vilakazi Street boasts two Nobel prize winning residents – Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his then wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu. The modest ‘matchbox’ house has been considerably altered and is now a small museum filled with memorabilia belonging to the pair, including letters, gifts and awards, as well as some items of original furniture. A few miles away the Kliptown Museum is a lesser known gem that details the events surrounding the historic 1955 Congress of the People. On June 26, 1955, 3,000 representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups calling for a nonracial and free South Africa gathered in Kliptown to draw up the Freedom Charter, a document that forms the basis of democratic South Africa’s Constitution. Among the many prominent activists who attended the meeting was the young Mandela, who is said to have arrived disguised as a milkman. Shortly after the Freedom Charter was signed, scores of delegates were harassed and arrested, the ANC was banned and further political protest was brutally stifled. The Nelson Mandela House Museum and Kliptown Museum are easy to visit on your own, although if you have time taking a walking or cycling tour of Soweto with a local is a rewarding way to gain deeper insights into Soweto’s struggle history. See page 52 for our recommended Soweto tours.QMandela House Museum, 8115 facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Admission R60 (African Union citizens R40), kids over 6, R20, kids under 6, R5. Kliptown Museum, Walter Sisulu Square (cnr Union Ave and Main Rd), Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DID YOU KNOW? QMandela completed his book Long Walk to Freedom while a guest at the home of businessman Douw Steyn in Sandton. Steyn's magnificent residence was later converted into a luxury hotel, the Saxon Hotel Villas & Spa. QIn 2009 the UN declared Mandela's July 18 birthday Mandela International Day. People across the world are encouraged to dedicate 67 minutes of their day (representing Mandela's 67 years of public service) to charitable work. In 2017 one of the more colourful Mandela Day projects saw 67 steel laser-cut owl sculptures installed in The Wilds park (see page 50).

QA master of disguise, while evading the apartheid police Mandela disguised himself variously as a farm worker, gardener, chauffeur, milkman and chef.

QThere are more than 140 streets, parks and schools across the world named after Nelson Mandela.

MANDELA IN PRETORIA Just 50km north of Joburg, Pretoria is home to the Union Buildings (Government Ave, Blackmoor) the official seat of the South African government. In 1994 Nelson Mandela was officially sworn in here as the country's first democratically elected president. This iconic moment is remembered in an impressive ninemetre bronze statue that looks out over the city from the terraced gardens that spill down from the buildings’ impressive facade – a particularly popular place to take photos. In December 2013 Nelson Mandela’s body lay in state here for three days while thousands of South Africans queued for hours to pay their last respects.

In south Pretoria just off the highway from Joburg is Freedom Park, a memorial site spread across a small hill that commemorates the scores of South Africans who lost their lives in the struggle for democracy. At the bottom of the hill the //Hapo museum details a condensed history of southern Africa from its earliest civilisations through the era of colonisation and resistance and into the present day, exploring how South Africa has transitioned from the tyranny of colonial exploitation and apartheid to become the constitutional democracy it is today.QFreedom Park, cnr Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 336 4000, freedompark.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Admission R120 (South Africans R55), kids, pensioners and the disabled R35. Entrance includes a guided tour (tours at 09:00, 12:00 and 14:00).

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Madiba's footsteps LILIESLEAF FARM This farm in the northern suburb of Rivonia was the secret headquarters of the anti-apartheid movement in the early 1960s. Mandela helped found Umkhonto we Sizwe (the Spear of the Nation) here, the ANC's armed wing. Mandela and his comrades would later be sentenced to life in prison for their activities at the farm in the 1964 Rivonia Trial at which Mandela made one of his most famous speeches, declaring; “I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live together in harmony and with equal opportunities. It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve. But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die.” Interactive displays outline in detail the lives of these incredible men and their efforts to end apartheid. A wealth of archival video and audio footage, including excerpts from Mandela’s Rivonia speech and interviews with the security police who raided the farm in 1963, provides much reason to spend a few hours to do this museum justice.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00– 16:00. Admission R110 (includes a guided tour), kids R50, pensioners R40, students R60, kids under 7 free.

Nelson Mandela mural in Maboneng by Freddy Sam. Photo by Justin Lee

APARTHEID MUSEUM

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

One of the country's best, this extensive museum provides the context of Mandela's efforts to establish a free and democratic South Africa. The exhibits strive to show the bitter realities of the apartheid system from many angles and a visit is an unforgettable, thought-provoking, and at times difficult experience. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. There is also extensive coverage of the political negotiations that took place in the early 1990s to end apartheid and of the work of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC). Formed in 1995 the TRC aimed to promote reconciliation and forgiveness among perpetrators and victims of apartheid by providing a platform for the full disclosure of crimes committed by the apartheid state. Give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org.

Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R85, kids, pensioners and students R75. Not suitable for kids under 12.

MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY The Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory, located just a short walk from Mandela’s final home in 4th Avenue Houghton, houses a small museum and archive run by the Nelson Mandela Foundation dedicated to his life and legacy. The exhibits include interesting personal items such as his diaries and his Nobel Peace Prize. Visitors can also see the office from which Mandela worked after retiring from politics.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, nelsonmandela.org. Visits are by prior appointment only. Admission is free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUMS Just 130 years old, Joburg has a brief but rich history. After following in the footsteps of Nelson Mandela through the city, explore Joburg's mining history, learn about the Anglo-Boer wars, hear stories of the Apartheid state's devastating policy of forced removals and trace your earliest ancestors at one of these museums.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history.

These include the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars as well as World War I and II and the conflicts waged by the Apartheid state in neighbourhing African countries, illustrated by an impressive range of military vehicles including tanks and fighter planes.Q22 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Admission R40, kids R30, pensioners R20. ­ ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team by wearing a Springbok jersey here during the 1995 World Cup Final between the Springboks and the All Blacks. This quirky little rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia. Fans can also book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium.QG‑3, Emirates Airline Park (formerly Ellis Park Stadium), 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 61 400 4883 or +27 11 402 2960, ellispark.co.za. Open 08:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Call in advance to book a visit. Admission R50, kids R20.

FERREIRA MINE STOPE In the basement of the Standard Bank headquarters in the Joburg City Centre is Ferreira's Mine Stope, a long forgotten mine entrance discovered in the 1980s during the construction of the vast building. Thought to be one of Joburg’s very first gold prospecting sites the stope has been preserved as a small museum with period photographs and old maps detailing how the very first prospectors, including Ignatius Phillip Ferreira, a farmer, soldier and later a gold prospector, operated. There are also various pieces of old-fashioned mining equipment such as gas lamps and pickaxes.QD-5 /6, Standard Bank, 5 Simmonds St, City Centre. Open 08:00– 16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. Closed Sun. Entrance is free.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT At Africa’s largest transport museum, the eclectic col­ lection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motor­ bikes, horse-drawn wagons, trams, fire engines and even steam-powered tractors. Look out for Joule, the first South African designed electric car. The museum is a stop on the City Sightseeing red bus route.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, tel. +27 11 435 9718, jhmt. org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–12:00, 13:00– 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission is free, although donations are encouraged. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the heart of the city.

A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort (see our Mandela's Joburg feature on page 43), the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people who passed through this place.

The Women’s Gaol built in 1909 held black and white female prisoner in separate sections. During the apartheid era many major political activists such as Albertina Sisulu, Ruth First and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela were imprisoned here in humiliating conditions and subjected to months of solitary confinement. At the centre of Constitution Hill is the notorious Number 4 prison block where ordinary criminals and political prisoners were kept. Not for the faint-hearted, wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience.

End your visit by taking a look around the inspiring Constitutional Court building which represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection.

Constitution Hill hosts a regular programme of themed events throughout the year such as lectures, film screenings, exhibitions and concerts, generally speaking attendance for these is free. In May look out for Africa Month events, in June the highlight of the calendar is the annual Basha Uhuru festival which celebrates Youth Month and in August expect plenty of events themed around Women's Month, timed to coincide with the Women's Day public holiday (August 9).QFor contact details see The Old Fort on page 43.

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Sightseeing LINDFIELD HOUSE This unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Love is able to brilliantly conjure the Victorian period through her vast knowledge of everyday habits and is very much part of the lavish exhibits that spread across 18 darkened rooms.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932. By appointment only. Tours R50, kids R30, tea and cake after the tour costs R20 extra.

MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT Walk along this pedestrianised street from the Carlton Centre to Chancellor House to see the covered wagons, stamp presses and old headgear that have been preserved from Joburg’s early gold rush years. There’s extensive signage outlining how Joburg’s earliest mines first worked, while the beautiful facades of the grand mining headquarters and various monuments lining the way, including the famous bronze leaping impalas outside the AngloAmerican building, are another highlight. On weekdays office workers enjoy the street cafés and the presence of the mining companies ensures the area is safe, clean and pleasant to explore.QC-5, Main St, City Centre.

MUSEUM AFRICA This impressive old building was once the city's fruit and vegetable market. While many of the exhibition halls are now sadly empty and a ghostly atmosphere of neglect hangs over the place, there are some very worthwhile exhibitions to seek out – particularly the Joburg Firsts exhibition (found on the first floor, on the left side of the

building as you enter). This exceptionally well-researched exhibit details everything from the city’s first bank, which was little more than a tent with a sign and a guard outside with an old gin box that functioned as the bank's 'safe', and the story of early Joburg's first barmaid who arrived in the gold rush city in the 1880s.QB-4, 112 Lilian Ngoyi St (facing Mary Fitzgerald Square), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum at the University of the Witwatersrand explores the history of modern hu­mans, tracing humanity's emergence along an 80,000-year path to its African source. Compelling exhibits include extensive collections of rock art and paleoanthropological and archeologi­ cal materials, including ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.

QB‑2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, wits. ac.za/origins. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Admission R80, learners R45, students and kids under 12 R40. K­ SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908-1909 Gandhi lived here with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, a German-Jewish architect, who designed the house. He lived a simple meditative life, developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and non-violent civil disobedience).

Their home is now a beautiful guesthouse and museum that offers visitors a contemplative experience.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse. com. Open 10:00–16:00. Admission free for South African citizens, R70 non-South African citizens. ­K

Newtown graffiti

SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its nonwhite residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma.

It is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals. Walking tours of the suburb led by residents of old Sophiatown are available with prior booking.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130/+27 11 477 3490, sophiatownthemix. com. Open 09:30–16:30. Closed Sun. Admission R60, Sof’town Urban Experience walking tour R185.

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WORKER’S MUSEUM The Newtown workers compound was built in 1913 for male African migrant workers of a nearby power plant (now the spectacular Turbine Hall events venue). Housing 300 men in just nine rooms, the conditions at the compound were appalling. Closed in the early 1980s, it is now a museum detailing the struggles and hardships of South Africa's migrant workers through the ages and paying homage to their important role in the country's fight for democracy and freedom.QC/4-5, 52 Rahima Moosa St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0593, +27 83 417 0555. Open 09:00–17.00. Mon by request only. Admission free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing TOURS

CITY SKATE TOURS This is the brainchild of two 'skater boys' who conceptualised the tour after showing friends around the inner-city this way. A self-taught tour guide, co-founder Ayanda Mnyandu fills the tour with interesting anecdotes about the early history of Joburg. The tour lasts three hours and includes a skateboard lesson. Skateboards are provided (tours are for persons aged 18-plus only). Bring a backpack and pack a bottle of water.QG-5, Curiocity Hostel, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 839 8833. Tours from R300.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open‑top, hop‑on hop‑off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red Bus route starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include the Apartheid Museum from where you can join a whistle‑stop two‑hour minibus tour of Soweto. The green route starts from The Zone@Rosebank and ends at Constitution Hill. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus at 15:10. Buses Mon–Fri every 40 mins. Sat, Sun, every 30 mins.QTel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za. Tickets from R200 (R180 online). Soweto combo ticket R480.

DLALA NJE This innovative company offers memorable walking experiences of the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow and Yeoville. You’ll get awe-inspiring views from the top of Hillbrow’s Ponte building where tours usually start, and on the Yeoville walk there is a chance to sample Cameroonian cuisine before heading back to Dlala Nje's 51st floor apartment for a nightcap. Dlala Nje means 'Just Play' in isiZulu and tour proceeds support the community centre run by Dlala Nje at Ponte City, a thriving residential building. QF‑2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea, tel. +27 11 402 2373, dlalanje.org. Tours from R280.

MainStreetWalks Bheki Dube

With plenty to see – from historic townships to graffitied streets and landmark architecture – we urge you to take a tour. History buffs should check out Joburg Heritage Foundation's quarterly programme (joburgheritage.co.za) and for ideas on how to experience Soweto, turn to page 52.

MAINSTREETWALKS Discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot or by bike with Bheki Dube's MainStreetWalks. Tours take in landmarks and unu­ sual places like the Ethiopian Quarter and KwaMaiMai traditional healers' market. MainStreetWalks also organise Soweto tours, and guided underground pub crawls of Maboneng and surrounds (see Nightlife). Look out for the Picnics in the Sky Tour on Sundays at lunchtime and the East City Cycle Tour, Sat and Sun from 15:00.QG‑5, Curiocity Hostel, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 11 027 5257, mainstreetwalks.co.za. Tours from R180.

PAST EXPERIENCES Known for a specialised focus on graffiti these well-researched offbeat walking tours take in the inner city, its communities, history and street art. Look out for their Weekend Budget Tours (from R160 per person) co-hosted by local graffiti artists.QTel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za.

Dlala Nje offers insightful and immersive experiences in Joburg’s most misunderstood areas.

• Hillbrow / Berea / Yeoville walking tours • Pre-booked events on 51st floor of Ponte City • Curated experiences for business © Jono Wood

Book your experience!

→ All experiences start at our youth centre in the iconic Ponte City →

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May 2018 – August 2018

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Art City

A R T D E S T I N AT I O N S With galleries galore, artists' studios and neighbourhoods and a thriving art calendar, Joburg is truly an art city. Here's a round-up of some of the city's most exciting art spaces.

VICTORIA YARDS & SURROUNDS A sprawling formerly derelict light industrial complex of buildings in Lorentzville in eastern Joburg the 30,000m2 site Victoria Yards (16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville) is now undergoing a spectacular re-imagining by the founder of the boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley in Milpark.

The vision is for a complex of makers, artists and artisans, that will bring life to this formerly downtrodden neighbourhood that lies between the downtown regenerated hipster Maboneng Precinct and Cyrildene's colourful Chinatown. Lorentzville is also home to the headquarters of homegrown grilled chicken giant Nando's whose global reach has taken peri-peri chicken to new heights. Once the site of the Nando's bottling factory (facing Victoria Yards), their headquarters at the Nando's Central Kitchen is now a model of contemporary South African art and design.

A work in progress the Victoria Yards complex currently is home to a number of prominent local artists including Blessing Ngobeni, Ayanda Mabulu, James Delaney and world-renowned photographer Roger Ballen. It is also the site of the gorgeous Daville Baillie Gallery showcasing contemporary art and Art Afrique which specialises in sourcing African art and design pieces. At the Daville Baillie Gallery you'll also find the Daville Baillie bookshop with a great selection of art books and other interesting titles.

Artisan's workshops include the fantastic furniture studio and factory of David Krynauw and the Smelt glass studio where you can take a class in glass making and glass blowing. Stop in at Impi Brewery Company, brewers of 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

local craft beer and a great pizza joint. The Victoria Yards gardens are lush with herbs and medicinal plants and will soon include fruit trees too. Linking the area to a number of other inner city agricultural initiatives, there are also plans for a produce market in the future.

Opening hours are not regulated and many of the spaces are let to working artists so the best time to visit is on the first Sunday of the month when Victoria Yard throw open all its doors to visitors.

Take time to explore the area. In neighbouring Troyeville is Andrew Lindsay's Spaza gallery (19 Wilhelmina St, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 614 9354) with its amazing collection of outsider art. Lindsay is an artist with a rich history of working with collectives on public art commissions. You'll find the best example on Bertrams Street near Ellis Park, a mosaic mural commemorating the 1922 Rand revolt.

A few blocks away in New Doornfontein, overlooking the iconic Ellis Park Stadium (Emirates Airline Park) is the six-storey Ellis House (23 Voorhout St) packed with artist studios, temporary art exhibition spaces, the contemporary gallery Art Eye (arteye.co.za, tel. +27 71 386 2198) and the beautiful Piece@Ellis House (piece.co.za, tel. +27 11 447 5541) which sells an extraordinary range of high-end contemporary crafted items made using traditional skills.

A short distance from Victoria Yards, stop for lunch at The Troyeville Hotel (1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Troyeville) famed for its delicious Mozambican–style cuisine.

QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za. For other venues call ahead for opening times or head to johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

GALLERIES & STUDIOS

KEYES ART MILE

AUGUST HOUSE This downtown Art Deco-era building is home to the studios of some fifty contemporary artists from all over Africa, including emerging and established names such as Bronwyn Lace, Themba Khumalo and Bambo Sibiya. Not generally open to the public August House instead hosts regular open days where you can explore all five floors of the building (as well as the rooftop from where you’ll find awesome city views), meet the artists and buy their work directly.QF4, 76 End st, Doornfontein, augusthouse.co.za.

GUNS & RAIN Guns & Rain is an innovative startup selling contemporary fine art online by established and emerging southern African artists underpinned by the values of fair, mindful and ethical trade. Art can be shipped globally, or sourced according to request and can be viewed online or at the Guns & Rain gallery which is open by appointment. The gallery represents artists from across southern Africa including Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique who work largely on paper and canvas.Q55 12th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 76 294 5332, gunsandrain.com.

Open by appointment only.

TMRW GALLERY Joburg's first digital gallery bringing artists together with technological innovations that will make you view art in whole new light. Unlike traditional art galleries where visitors are expected to remain passive and simply look, this gallery invites you, the audience, to immerse yourself in the experience with augmented reality, virtual reality, 3D technology and the 360-degree moving image. TMRW is focused on collaborating extensively with artists to explore the fascinating intersections between contemporary visual art, technology and mixed realities. Prepare to be wowed.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 82 783 0437. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TMRW Gallery

ART IT IS The tagline of this knockout triple-volume glass-walled contemporary space next to Rosebank is “curating South Africa’s undiscovered art”. A refreshing upstart on Joburg’s art gallery scene, Art It Is showcases works by an incredibly diverse range of artists, among them emerging artists and more well-known names and stands out among its suburban surroundings for its uber-cool industrial design.

The gallery supports and encourages new artists with an emphasis on building fair and transparent relationships that benefit both the artist and the gallery. Art It Is is focused on making art accessible to a wide audience and making the gallery space accessible to artists so you’ll find works starting from as little as R2,000 up to sky’s the limit.

Pieces range from prints to large sculptural works with the vast spaces of the gallery displaying an enormous range of artworks to their best effect.QJ-12, 11 Chester Rd, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 6961, artitis.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun.

Within walking distance of the malls of Rosebank, at the corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Jellicoe Avenue is the start of Keyes Art Mile, an exciting development that has revitalised a formerly quiet street and created a new hub of art and design. At its centre is the Trumpet building, an impressive contemporary space, with galleries, chic design stores and cafés opening out onto the street, a vast entrance hall that is curated as an art exhibition space and upstairs a cluster of slick restaurants and bars.

Flanked by wild olive trees, Trumpet’s towering architecture is the work of StudioMAS who designed the landmark Circa Gallery building next door (a sister gallery to Everard Read gallery on the opposite side of the street).

At Circa and Everard Read galleries impressive temporary exhibitions by South Africa’s leading South African artists await, while at SMAC Gallery you can find edgy contemporary fine art, installation and photography exhibitions. At TMRW Gallery digital art takes centre stage.

REGULAR EVENTS Keyes Art Mile has an exciting programme of regular art-focused events that are all free to attend. Look out for the First Thursdays party on the first Thursday of every month when the entire street is closed off for a street party, the monthly Art & Design Saturdays, an art-filled morning of talks, book launches, film screenings, exhibitions and new installations and the Pantry Market on the last Saturday of the month.

QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za.

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Sport & outdoors In this most treed of cities with year-round sunshine there is no shortage of scenic spaces for enjoying lazy picnics and long walks. Alternatively, take a day trip to one of Gauteng’s numerous nature reserves.

PARKS & NATURE RESERVES JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS This green oasis has extensive parkland for long walks and is fa­voured by cyclists and dog walkers. On weekends you'll spot wedding parties in the terraced rose garden.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00.

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS This well-maintained park has stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching and even a waterfall. There are various hiking routes and large picnic lawns (40 minutes from Sandton).QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, sanbi.org/gardens. Open 08:00–18:00. Admission R45.

THE WILDS This magnificent historic park with its stone-cut paths, water features and awe-inspiring city views, has recently been revived as a public space by the efforts of artist James Delaney and his team of assistants and volunteers.

Delaney's artworks, 67 steel laser-cut owls placed in a yellowwood grove to mark Mandela Day 2017 (July 18), were the catalyst for rallying the city to restore the park to a place of pride.QEntrance on Houghton Drive, Houghton Estate. See Facebook.com/Friends of the Wilds.

ZOO LAKE Picnic, feed the ducks or hire a rowboat. There are basketball courts, a walking track, a kid’s play area and for food and drinks the African-themed restaurant Moyo or the Zoo Lake Bowls Club.QCnr Jan Smuts Ave and Westwold St, Parkview, tel. +27 11 483 1017.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area of Melrose. There are five courses to choose from, plus the Big Zip Line. From preschoolers to adults there's no shortage of activities.QM-12, Melrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. Also at Huddle Park. Prices from R110 for kids courses, from R160 for teenagers and adult courses.

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The Wilds by James Delaney

MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE A nature reserve and heritage site, the Melville Koppies boasts archaeological remains of Stone Age and Iron Age settle­ ments, abundant indigenous vegetation and great views over the city. The best way to visit is on one of the guided walking tours which leave every weekend.QCnr Judith Rd and Orange Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, mk.org.za. 3 hour guided walk every Sun leaving at 08:30 and 15:00 on alternate weeks, costs R60, kids R40.

GOLD REEF CITY Gauteng’s best amusement and theme park with rides and attractions for all ages. Extreme rides like the Anaconda, Jozi Express and Tower of Terror are for the brave teens and adults, while the little ones will enjoy a gentle train ride around the park with a soft-serve ice cream in hand.

Harking back to the city's early history, you can also take a trip underground to visit a disused mine shaft within the theme park, try gold panning and take a tour of a recreated mining village.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Crescent, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, goldreefcity. co.za. Open Wed–Sun and public holidays 09:30–17:00.

Open daily during school holidays. Admission with access to all rides R220, students and pensioners R180, general park admission (no rides) R125, kids under 1.3metres tall R135. Family ticket (2 adults and 2 kids under 1.3 metres) R550. Kids under 3 free.

HENNOPS HIKING TRAIL Approximately one hour’s drive north of central Sandton, choose from three well-maintained circular trails winding through the Magaliesberg mountains foothills. There’s an easy 2km walk, the 6km Zebra route (allow 2 hours) and more challenging 11.3km Krokodilberg Route (plan for 4-5 hours). Interesting features include an old-fashioned cablecar on a pulley crossing the river (or detour to use the suspension bridge) and the crumbling remains of structures from the Anglo-Boer wars. With little shade and no access to drinking water en route come prepared and start as early as possible.QTrail entrance off the R511 (10km south of R105 junction), tel. +27 82 825 9205, hennopstrails.co.za. Admission R70, kids R40. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 07:00–17:00. Note that you must register at the trail office before you set off. The Hennops Hiking Trail office closes at 14:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & outdoors

LION AND SAFARI PARK A popular family day out, especially for those short on time to get to a Big Five safari park. This 600-hectare wilderness reserve set in the Cradle of Humankind has plenty of big plains game including giraffe, zebra and various antelope as well as a predators area to see lion, hyena and wild dog. Opt for a self-drive or a guided safari. The large visitor centre and gift shop has a restaurant with a view over the park where you can watch wildebeest grazing. QR512 (Pelindaba Rd), Lanseria, Broederstroom, tel. +27 87 150 0100, lionandsafaripark.com. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00, Weekends and Public holidays 08:00–20:00. Self drive from R195, safari tours from R330, kids under 12 free.

FUN FOR KIDS

MAROPENG AND THE STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the visitor's centre for the Cradle of Humankind, around 50 minutes drive north-west of Sandton, where many of the world's most famous hominid fossils have been found. Maropeng's extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind and the spread of people across continents. Combine a visit with a 45-minute tour of the Sterkfontein Caves (a short drive away) that leave hourly and offer insights into the life of our earliest ancestors.QR400, off the R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Visitor’s centre open 09:00– 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combo ticket R190.

Discounts for kids, students, pensioners.

REEA FOUNDATION URBAN FARM Tucked between the wonderfully wild and sprawling Delta Park and Jan Smuts Avenue you’ll find REEA (Rand Epilepsy Employment Agency) Foundation’s magical series of gardens within which are the childfriendly Delta Café overlooking the park, an art gallery and ceramics studio, a charity store, bookshop, the River Ranges horse riding school and even a winery.

At Gerakaris Family Wines you can sample garagiste wines, made with grapes from the Cape. With its rambling gardens and picturesque outdoor spaces, complete with hay bales and a vegetable garden, this an ideal place to hang out if travelling with kids.QJ-10, 20 Marlborough Rd, Craighall Park, reea.org.za.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS With hundreds of fascinating birds species, from domestic to exotic, birds of prey plus a huge pelican and a sloth who gives slothfulness a good name this is a super attraction for all ages.QMontecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre, Montecasino Blv, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, tsogosun.com/montecasino/entertainment/bird-gardens. Open 08:30–17:00. Admission R70, kids under 11 and pensioners R45.

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Lebo's Soweto Backpackers, Orlando West

Sightseeing: Soweto

In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive.

Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and dizzying house numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms, family suites or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, firesidestorytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the lush small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows – fresh bread filled with homemade curries cooked in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel, with strong local community ties, looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955. End your day here with a Kliptini cocktail at the elegant Jazz Maniacs restaurant.

QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

TOURS By taking a tour with a local guide you’ll get to go off-thebeaten path and experience ‘ikasi’ life and culture. City-based MainStreetWalks offer excellent Soweto tours that include a transfer from their base at the Curiocity Hostel in Maboneng and the City Sightseeing bus offers a whistle-stop tour of Soweto by mini-bus starting from the Apartheid Museum stop (Soweto tour costs extra). See page 47 for details.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a must-do (a tuk-tuk tour will suit the less athletic and there are also excellent walking tours). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and local delicacies. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers. com. Bicycle tours from R480, tuk-tuk tours from R460.

BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam. An avid conservationist Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A particular tour highlight is johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto the hike up Enoch Sontonga koppie, offering spectacular views of Soweto. There is also the option to join other birding tours in Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, Klipriviersberg and the Cradle of Humankind. Tours are on foot or by bike.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R150–R450.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, an impoverished neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.

QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail. com. Tours from R250.

TOUR SOWETO Led by former photojournalist Ilan Ossendryver you’ll experience Soweto by getting an opportunity to meet local community members and even celebrate birthdays and special occasions with the children of Kliptown. His warmth and good humour is infectious and a bonus of these tours is that he will guide your photography plus share a large file of photographs shot by him on the day after the trip. Expect to be led down alleyways and paths not usually visited by tourists.QTel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto.com, or mail ilan@ic-creations.com. Tours from R450 to R650. Airport pick-ups cost R450. Kids under 10 free.

WHAT TO SEE HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best. Startling photographs, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising, and in particular the day of June 16. In front of the museum is a memorial to the 12-year-old Hector Pieterson, one of the first children killed by the police. Photographer Sam Nzima’s image of Pieterson’s body being carried by an older high school student became one of the most iconic images of the era, graphically highlighting to the world the senseless cruelty and brutality of the apartheid state. Note no cameras are allowed in the museum.

Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel +27 11 536 0611.

Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:30. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, or 13 years and above, R10.

JUNE 16 MEMORIAL ACRE This imaginative outdoor memorial, opened in 2015, is the start of the ‘June 16 Trail’. The story of the protest is told with a timeline in pictures and words accompanied by photographs and exceptional murals depicting the scenes of the fateful day. Among the many public artworks and memorials is a statue representing a key leader of the protests, Tsietsi Mashinini, who was a pupil at the Morris Isaacson High School. In the aftermath of the protests the young Mashinini was forced to flee the country and sadly died in exile before apartheid was finally ended in South Africa.

QCnr Pula Street and Mputhi St (opposite Morris Isaacson High School), White City, Jabavu. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Sightseeing: Soweto KLIPTOWN Kliptown is most famous as the location for the 1955 Congress of the People. In June 1955 representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups gathered in the centre of Kliptown to draw up the Freedom Charter, which laid out the principles for a country in which all South Africans regardless of colour, race, gender or belief would be entitled to equal rights. This document now forms the basis for South Africa’s modern democratic constitution. The small but compelling Kliptown Museum which overlooks Walter Sisulu Square tells the remarkable story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People and details the increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced at the time (tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free).

ORLANDO TOWERS These two huge colourful cooling towers are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark and a magnet for thrill-seekers. Book a bungee jump or SCAD fall from the top, and follow it up with shisa nyama and beer at Chaf Pozi restaurant and beer garden.QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open Thu–Sun 10:00–17:00, public holidays 10:00–18:00.

Kliptown trader by Tour Soweto

VILAKAZI STREET Soweto's most famous street lays claim to two Nobel prizewinners: Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his wife Winnie in the late 1950s to early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and the modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. Vibrant Vilakazi Street is lined with busy restaurants and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes, plus lots of craft stalls and small shops. For many tourists the main stop is the small Mandela House Museum (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45.

Entrance R60, kids R20). At the top of Vilakazi Street don’t miss The Box Shop, an eye-catching cube of shipping containers that houses a fashion boutique and Kofi, Soweto’s first coffee roasters (7166 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 048 9900, theboxshop.co.za. 09:30–19:30, Fri–Sun 09:30–20:30).

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SPEAKING SOWETAN COMMON GREETINGS Sawubona / sanibonani Hello (sanibonani when addressing more than one person).

Unjani roughly meaning ‘how are you?’ (or howzit as South Africans also often say). A standard response is ‘Ngiyaphila, wena?’ (I’m good, and you?).

Ngiyabonga / siyabonga Thank you.

Hamba kahle Goodbye (literally ‘go well’) Gogo Grandma, an elderly woman.

Mkhulu Grandpa, an elderly man.

ON THE MENU Amadombolo Zulu-style steamed dumpling breads.

Served as an accompaniment to stews.

Amagwinya also known as vetkoek (Afrikaans) or fat cakes. These lightly fried dough balls are similar in size and shape to a doughnut without a hole and make great street snacks, usually costing around R1-R2 each.

Pap maize porridge.

Russian cheap, fine-textured, pork or beef-based sausage. The name gets its origin from the 19th Century gold rush when Eastern European immigrants would sell them to mineworkers.

Ingudu / Quart 750ml bottles of beer.

Kota a kind of giant township sandwich made from a hollowed-out quarter bread loaf filled with a combination of chips, processed meats, cheese and pickles.

Not to be confused with a bunny chow which is a hollowed out loaf filled with curry.

Iskopo an animal head (usually cow or sheep) slow braised in a gravy stew.

Mealies sweetcorn on the cob.

Mogodu SeSotho term for tripe, commonly braised with onion and salt. You’ll also often find other offal on the menu such as amanqina (braised cow heels).

Runaway / walkie talkie Spiced, grilled chicken feet.

Umqombothi Traditional homemade African beer made from maize or sorghum.

ON THE STREET Chiskop often advertised on pavement barbershop signs, the chiskop is a full close shave of the entire head Sangoma a traditional healer.

Shebeen an illicit backyard bar or tavern. Shebeens proliferated in South African townships during apartheid when it was illegal for black people to drink in bars. These days most shebeens are legal and licensed.

Shisa nyama a popular style of township braai/meat barbeque or steak house usually with an attached butchery.

Spaza a small local shop selling everyday basics.

Tokoloshe (pronounced with a silent e) a mischievous demon from African folklore, most commonly seen in tabloid newspaper headlines.

Tsotsi criminal or gangster. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

The Storer, 44 Stanley

COOL & QUIRKY STORES

BLACK COFFEE AND LOVE JOZI Jacques van Watt’s fashion label Black Coffee combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction and attention to detail. The store shares space with Love Jozi, a cult homegrown T-shirt and homeware accessories brand that mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, referencing iconic Joburg landmarks.QA-1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9148, blackcoffee.co.za.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

DOKTER AND MISSES Quite simply one of the top names in South African furniture and homeware design. Katy Taplin and Adriaan Hugo’s signature style combines bold colour, clean modern lines and superb craftsmanship. From large furniture pieces to small items that are easy to transport. Every home deserves a Dokter and Misses piece.QC-3, 99 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1024, dokterandmisses.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. HELLO AFRICA MARKETPLACE This bright and welcoming store in Maboneng sells unique handcrafted gifts made by artisans from across the continent, including hand-painted ceramics, gorgeous homeware (we particularly love the Masai cloth cushions), leather handbags, shawls and kimonos made from local African fabrics, jewellery and accessories.QF/G-5, Arts On Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040,helloafricamarketplace.com. Open 10:00–16:00.

KRAG DRAG This fun clothing and gift store in Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

shopping centre (which is built entirely from shipping containers) gives iconic South African and international brands a cheeky twist. Pick up an 'Amazulu' T-shirt (a play on global giant Amazon), a Smartie pants babygro or a leopard-print pair of Dr. Indonya boxers. Krag Drag also stocks a colourful selection of retro-inspired giftable items.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Wed 10:00–21:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

LOVE BOOKS Kate Rogan’s independent bookshop exhibits her thoughtful and considered reading choices, award-winning books, books people are or should be talking about including plenty of South African titles. The adjoining café Service Station is a popular neighbourhood hangout with a view of the Melville Koppies. The store also has a regular calendar of book launch events.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–14:00.

ORIENTAL PLAZA Head to this thriving Fordsburg mega-bazaar for bargainpriced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jewelled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashion. No visit is complete without a stop at World of Samoosas.QA-5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers.

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Shopping

Dokter and Misses, Braamfontein

MR VINYL Browse for the biggest selection of new and pre-loved vinyl across all genres, including rare and collectable items, or just hang out on the sofa and enjoy the music. Mr Vinyl also takes part in the popular monthly Vinyl Fair which happens on the first Sunday of the month at the Stanley Beer Yard a few doors down.QA-1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 1212, mrvinyl.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 44 STANLEY This charming converted 1930s industrial complex is filled with boutiques and cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees. For fashion look out for local designer labels Lunar, Guillotine and Black Coffee and super stylish menswear store Odrin. For colourful kids clothing referencing traditional African patterns there’s Kuna Kids.

Among many other must-visit stores is the divine Belgian chocolate store Chocoloza, vinyl record shop Mr Vinyl, and Mungo Design where you will find luxurious woven linens made according to traditional 19th-Century techniques.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN This urban shopping emporium is housed in the historic Potato Sheds first built in 1911 as part of Joburg’s original fruit and vegetable market in Newtown. The voluminous heritage space showcases some of the hippest local fashion and design brands including the Xhosa-inspired knitwear label Maxhosa by Laduma, and top South African rapper Cassper Nyovest’s fashion label Family Tree, as well as craft and gift stalls, vintage fashion retailers, pop-up shops, small boutiques specialising in clothing and accessories made from African fabrics. There's also a nail bar.QB-4, 100 Carr St, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), tel. +27 60 786 1004, workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon. 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PIECE @ ELLIS HOUSE The beautiful Piece gallery and store sells an extraordinary range of high-end contemporary crafted items, and develops the traditional skills of local craftspeople by providing an outlet for their wares. Each item is handmade, authentic and ethically sourced. Find traditional Swazi woven baskets, beadwork, and gorgeous papier-mâché creatures from the Kalahari that are a favourite of Princess Charlene of Monaco. Piece also offers beading lessons with master beader Beauty Maswanganyi.QG-4, 23 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein, tel.+27 11 447 5541, piece.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. THE STORER This enticing homeware and furniture store at 44 Stanley is filled with treasures collected from across the globe and conjures travel to exotic destinations. From Moroccan vintage carpets to hand-glazed pots from Cambodia The Storer offers up pieces that all have their own stories. The owner and her team seek out artisans rather than factories in far-flung places and share their joy in discovering beautiful hand-crafted and unique objects. Worth a visit just for the impressive vertical garden inside the store.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 679 2962, thestorer.co. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–14:00.

STORM IN A TEACUP From dinnerware to vases, small items to showstopper pieces at Sue Weston's Storm in a Tea Cup at 44 Stanley you’ll find the perfect ceramic gift for you or someone else (not all your best intentions have to work out). Everything is handmade locally and there are plenty of unique items.

Contemporary designs here often take their inspiration from African ceremonial vessels. QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 82 826 5425, storminateacup.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

VINTIQUEEN Nosipho Mayosi, aka VintiQueen, runs a vintage clothing store in the Maboneng precinct. From 1980s power suits to cute 1960s A-line skirts and chiffon blouses, VintiQueen’s selection of finds is eclectic, extensive and constantly being updated. The store in Maboneng’s Maverick Corner evokes the style and glamour of the 1940s and 1950s with period furniture offset by fresh flowers and brightly painted walls.

QF/G-4, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 163 8187. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30– 16:00. Closed Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BE O OL Visit Johannesburg’s unique shopping centre for endless trends in casual, exotic, elegant and sporty wear. We have it all!

Visit us at 38 Lilian Ngoyi Street, Fordsburg, Johannesburg Follow us on Instagram & Facebook @orientalplazafordsburg www.orientalplaza.co.za

Rosebank SundayMarket,, Sumting Fresh at Neighbourgoods, Rosebank Sunday Market

Markets

MARKET SHOPPING Joburg markets have it all – from food trucks to traditional medicine, vintage clothing to must-have souvenirs. Here's our guide to where to go market shopping and when.

COOL KIDS & COCKTAILS

FAMILY DAYS IN SANDTON

Some Joburg markets are a veritable fashion show, with the hip, young crowd all turned out in their style-blog-worthy outfits, jostling for space in the queue for the craft beers and vintage handbags. At these trailblazing venues, the latest trends in food and fashion are set and what may start as a humble market stall, can within the space of a year become a fully-fledged restaurant or clothing store with a dedicated following. DJs, craft beers, cocktails and clever Tshirts, these weekend markets are as much about shopping as they are about socialising with the cool crowd.

On Saturdays the Neighbourgoods Market in Braamfontein attracts a few thousand people over the course of the day for gourmet food trucks, thrift shopping, frozen cocktails and a spit braai offered at the stall of Braamfontein’s celebrated jazz club The Orbit. The happening crowd takes over the huge rooftop terrace where there are great city views and usually live music performances, while down on the street below vintage clothing retailers set up shop.

For many an afternoon spent hanging out at Neighbourgoods is a warm-up to an evening exploring Braamfontein's bars (see our Braamfontein feature on page 34 for more).

Across town on the eastern edge of the inner city Market On Main is the Sunday heartbeat of the Maboneng district. Housed in Arts On Main, an old industrial building that flows into a central grassy courtyard, this spot is perfect for lazing away an afternoon, if you can resist the area’s thronging streets. On the building's ground floor food and design are centre stage with a selection ranging from African fusion sushi to perfect little pastries. One floor above is devoted to vintage fashion finds and cool Afrochic clothing. Meawhile the street beyond is also a market hub where second-hand bookdealers and buskers share the pavements. Market On Main also has a monthly night market, usually held to coincide with public holidays.

A morning spent exploring one of Sandton’s family-oriented markets can be a great way to keep the kids fed and entertained with dedicated kids' play areas and plenty of hands-on crafting activities – just make sure they have enough pocket money to spend at their favourite craft stall or pancake stand.

Taking place every Thursday and Saturday, Joburg’s original family outdoor market Bryanston Organic Market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, organic food stalls and a super collection of traditional African fabrics from across the continent. This is hands down one of the best places in Joburg to shop for high quality local gifts and souvenirs with dozens of talented resident artisans who specialise in different traditional crafts.

On Sundays Rosebank Sunday Market is one of Joburg’s biggest and most popular markets with hundreds of stalls taking over a large covered rooftop space on top of Rosebank Mall. The market brings together the broadest selection of vendors selling everything from traditional crafts and souvenirs to colourful shweshwe fabrics, vintage clothing, antiques and second-hand books. Don’t leave without getting lunch from one of the many food stalls – our favourites include the authentic Malaysian curries and Palestinian homemade falafel. Wash it all down with a local beer from the bar or a freshly squeezed juice. Flea market enthusiasts should look out for the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.

Also on Sundays Fourways Farmers Market is a chilled lunch spot in a rustic setting that is just a street away from the brash Montecasino entertainment complex deep in Joburg’s northern suburbs. The focus is on food and craft cocktails with plenty of stalls offering farm fresh produce. We recommend you arrive hungry as there’s lots you will want to try.

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TRADITIONAL MARKETS Since Joburg’s earliest days when gold was discovered and the world flocked to what was then little more than a dusty mining camp in search of riches, street hawkers and market traders have set up shop on Joburg’s inner city pavements.

The historic city centre’s main pedestrianised street markets can be found on historic Kerk Street and Diagonal Street where street hawkers sell fruit and vegetables and a wide range of clothing that includes everything from secondhand items to traditional beaded skirts and knock-off branded accessories. Diagonal Street is known particularly for its second-hand ‘dunusa’ markets (an isiZulu word meaning to bend down with your bum in the air, alluding to the way shoppers hunt for the best clothing at the bottom of the pile). On Kerk Street there is no shortage of hairdressers who ply their braiding and weaving skills from stools on the pavement. Pickpocketing can be a problem so carry small change and leave your valuables at home.

One of South Africa’s oldest traditional medicine markets Kwa Mai Mai Market is located on the eastern edge of the inner city just a few blocks from the trendy Maboneng Precinct. Dubbed Ezinyangeni (the place of healers), people come here in search of healers and cures for all manner of physical and spiritual ailments. For visitors it is fascinating for its cultural richness and exotic offerings such as animal skins, muti (medicine) and traditional artefacts. We recommend you visit with a local guide (Maboneng-based MainStreetWalks can arrange tours, see page 47) who will provide insight into the ancient culture and traditions practiced here. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

MARKET DIRECTORY BRYANSTON NATURAL & ORGANIC MARKETQ40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu and Sat 09:00– 15:00.

DIAGONAL STREETQThe three main downtown dunusa markets are easily accessible from Park Station.

FOURWAYS FARMERS MARKETQField & Study Park, Cnr 14th St and Louise Ave, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 778 8044, fieldmarket.co.za. Open every 2nd Saturday of the month from 10:00–15:00.

KERK STREET MARKETQD‑4, Between Harrison and Von Brandis Sts, City Centre. Open daily during daylight hours.

KWA MAI MAI MARKETQG‑5, Cnr Anderson and Berea Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 7344. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00.

MARKET ON MAINQ264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za.

Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKETQ73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, neighbourgoodsmarket. co.za/johannesburg. Every Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKETQRosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7818/19/20, rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

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Shopping

LUXURY SHOPPING ARDMORE DESIGN Ardmore Design is a luxury African brand that translates the intricately patterned, brightly coloured and whimsical art of hand-painting found on the highly collectable Ardmore Ceramics range, into design and decor items.

The range includes tablecloths, wall-hangings, cushion covers, placemats, handbags and even stationery.QK‑11, Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, ardmore-design.com. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. BRYLLIANTA DIAMONDS & TANZANITE This is an appointment-only destination for your diamond and tanzanite education – a perfect place to start your journey to purchasing one of these flawless beauties. Bryllianta is a plush, private and secure jewel boutique offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop. Owner Bryna's many years of experience will ensure that you can tell the difference between your carats and your carrots, and understand the quality and value of stones before you make your purchase.QL-9, 16th Floor, Office 06, The Forum of Sandton Square (2 Maude St), Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121 or email bryna@bryllianta.com, bryllianta.co.za.

COLLECTIVE BY CHARLES GREIG This sister store to Charles Greig Jewellers in Hyde Park stocks an exquisite range of contemporary luxury items, from Kenyan designer Anna Trzebinski’s hand-made feathered pashminas to one-of-a-kind jewelled pieces, leather goods and Africology spa products. A treasure trove of beautiful items.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2714, collectiveafrica.co.za.

Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

KIM SACKS GALLERY Danish-trained ceramist Kim Sacks stocks collectable ceramic pieces, produced through artistic collaborations.

Her Moorish-styled gallery is conveniently located along 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Parkwood’s Art Gallery Row. Here you’ll also find museumquality traditional and contemporary handmade objects.

Q153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks. com. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–17:00.

Closed Sun. LEOPARD FROCK Marianne Fassler's design style is bold, eclectic and electric, using vibrant colours and African-inspired motifs. Long before Europe's top design houses 'discovered' African prints, Fassler embraced an aesthetic that is distinctly chic, urban and African. Visiting Leopard Frock, her studio and showroom in suburban Saxonwold, is an immersive experiVIA LA MODA Tucked into an industrial building in Industria North, this place is one of Joburg’s better-kept secrets. For luxury addicts, Via La Moda’s showroom is a must-stop on any Johannesburg itinerary offering up an enormous array of finely crafted handbags and other leather accessories in a glorious arrangement of vibrant colours, shapes and textures (said to be the largest display on the African continent). From handbags to purses, and leather belts, each item is made with care and precision, and stitched in the pristine workshop overseen

by Austrian-born designer Hanspeter Winklmayr. The leather materials used are ethically sourced and the focused process of creating a luxury product is evident from the patience displayed for precise and painstaking work. Winklmayr displays an attitude of reverence for the materials he uses. Each skin is individually treated and the manufacturing process ensures that every piece of material is used. Most refreshing is that this homegrown South African luxury brand revels in producing unique designs that are frequently updated, making many pieces collector’s items, as quality is prized over quantity.Q19 Banfield Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 11 477 8008, vialamoda.com. Open 09:00– 17:00, Fri 09:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Via La Moda

From knitwear favoured by Beyoncé to diamonds and showstopper handcrafted accessories, Joburg is Africa's capital of luxe.

Shopping ence. It's a dress-up space filled with rich colour and detail, and a place where you will be offered the opportunity to view Fassler's design archive.Q34 Engelwold Dr, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 8387, mariannefassler.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Weekends by appointment only.

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Featured in Italian Vogue, sold at Paris’s BHV/Marais department store and mentioned by Beyoncé, this South African designed knitwear brand is making waves globally. Founder Laduma Ngxokolo is inspired by manhood rituals of the South African Xhosa people, and Ngxokolo uses patterns, beadwork and symbolism from this rich culture in his modern contemporary clothing designs for him and her.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 1532, maxhosa. co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

MELVILL AND MOON The Melvill family specialise in fine hand-crafted accessories and luggage in leather and safari canvas. Their range of hand-stitched leather accessories, inspired by 19th Century colonial designs, include bird book covers, elegant carry-on bags and the Serengeti Sundowner, a beautiful leather tote that neatly stores six wine glasses.

Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 11 262 5030, melvillandmoon.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 13:00. Closed Sun.

Visit our exclusive jewel boutique embedded in the heart of Sandton By appointment only

THE FORUM, 2 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON Contact: +27 82 441 2121 | bryllianta.com

ODRIN A super stylish menswear store offering a range of men’s clothing items that every wardrobe should boast. Items are responsibly made locally and fabrics are sourced from as far afield as the US, Europe and Japan. The store also offers made-to-measure suiting and delivery to 50+ countries globally.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 10 900 4671, odrin.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

LUXURY MALLS DIAMOND WALK AT SANDTON CITY The place to visit for the largest collection of coveted international luxury labels to be found in Joburg including leading names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Bring lots of plastic!QL-9, Sandton City, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity. com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE This spacious mall links to Sandton City and is built around an open piazza flanked by restaurants. Top luxury labels to look out for include Argentina's polo gear La Martina and luxury department store Luminance.QL-9, entrance on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Zoo Lake. Photo: Anton Bosman

Joburg Basics

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming Jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs.

Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

CELLPHONES AND SIM CARDS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached by the police you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card.

From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

MEDICAL CARE EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 82 457 0176 or +27 82 443 5366, emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QK-12, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

May 1 June 16 August 9

Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women's Day

POSTAGE South African Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their more efficient and pricier commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, postnet.co.za).

For courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cigarettes R40–R50 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R12–R14 Loaf of bread R12–R15 Local beer (in a bar) R22–R28

NEED TO KNOW DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). For directory enquiries dial 1023.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa.

LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life.

POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system.

The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC).

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory).

SMOKING Smoking is banned in public places and despite it carrying a R500 penalty you might find people smoking on terraces and in doorways of bars and restaurants. Look out for specially designated smoking areas. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (joburgtourism.com), Gauteng Tourism (gauteng.net) and Sandton Tourism (sandtontourism.com).

VAT A tax of 15 percent is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (taxrefunds.co.za). You will need to get a tax invoice from the shop for anything you buy to be able to claim VAT. WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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Attractions Constitution Hill Origins Centre Wits Art Museum The Grove Museum Africa Workers’ Museum SAB World of Beer Sci-Bono Discovery Centre Chancellor House First Chinatown 1 Fox Precinct Hamidia Mosque Rand Club Johannesburg City Library Carlton Centre Johannesburg Art Gallery Gandhi Square The Cosmopolitan Arts on Main Emirates Airline Park Main Street Mining District

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Phillip St

End St

Nugget St

 Goud St

Mooi St

on St

 Anders

Greene St

 Troye St

Kruis St

dis St Von Bran

St Marshall 7 St on rs de  An St Frederick

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 Fox St

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

Albertina

Bea

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Helen Jose

 Va n Be

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New Doornfontein St 

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St

M

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St

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Pla c

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Joe Slovo Rd

St

Ellis Park Precinct

Staib S

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Erro

8

3

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St

20

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t

Kerk St Delvers St

Von Weilli

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 Rahim

15

Dora

St

t

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vies S

Plein St 

 Da

De Villier

Lilian Ngo

d

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s St

 End St

Twist St

ge St

Klein St

King Geor

rs St

Hancock St Bruyn St Sophie de

t St

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

Koch St

Heigh

Sherw

Claim St

Quartz St

Wandere

16

Bok St

Beit St

t Nind S

Leyds St

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W

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St

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Smit St 

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2

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St

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Charlton Terrace

Sa

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Gordon Terrace

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ld Rd

Jolly St

South Ln

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Hadfie

Ockerse St

Natal St

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Hig

Percy St

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se Primro

Kapteijn St

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Durban Rd

Hendon

Joe Slovo Dr

ne Catheri

 Banket

Klein St

Edith Cave

 Twist St

Esselen Rd

St

Bellevue East

St e wa

Harley St

Abel S

Soper

Kenmere Rd

St

Fortesque Rd

Minors St

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Hillbrow

Kotze St

Olivia

v

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St 

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St

Pretoria St

Grafton Rd

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Joel S

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Goldreich

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Page St

Saunders St 

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 Barn

Becker St

 Webb St

Tudho

Rd

Caroline

ck St



Yeoville

Berea

e St Beatric

 Claim St

Bruce St



Lane

 Park

St Doris

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Lou

18

issioner St

 Comm

Rd

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9

6

Main St

 Fox St

Main St

Marshall

St Joh Park nP ag eD riv e

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Park St

Fawcus St

Jules St

5

Albert St  Durban St

Salisbury St

Cresc

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6

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School St

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Melrose St

M2 East 

New Chinatown (7km) OR Tambo International Airport (20km)

 M2 West

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10 Michelangelo Hotel

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N1

Inanda Polo Club RIVONIA

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7 Holiday Inn Sandton

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