Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 17

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

N°17 - R45 ISSN 2311-3944

Neighbourhood Watch Coolest stops for visitors

9 772311 394000

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What to see

25 Essential experiences

LIVE WORK PLAY BRAAMFONTEIN – FEEL THE NEW-GEN HEARTBEAT OF JOBURG IN AFRICA’S CAPITAL OF COOL

SHOP

EAT & DRINK

Amazi Nail & Beauty Bar (079) 623-6142 Archive (011) 339-1314 Branded Feet (074) 888-5954 Civic Tailors (011) 403-7560 Dokter and Misses (011) 403-1024 Puma (087) 230-7306 Puma Select (087) 339-7306 Relay (011) 339-1110 Spec Station (011) 403-7722 The Cross Trainer Editions (011) 339-1078 TOMS (011) 403-4105 Urban Eatery (011) 403-1395 Zando www.zando.co.za

86 Public Chicken Licken Dassler’s DoubleShot Fateema’s Father Coffee Galata Turkish Bakery Great Dane KFC Kitchener’s MAD Pizza 123 Metanoia Mimmos Nando’s Pizza Hut Post R Janas RocoGo The Artivist The Bannister The Immigrant Velo

CULTURE AFROPUNK www.afropunk.com Origins Centre (011) 717-4700 The Forge (opens Oct 2019) (010) 020-6764 Wits Art Museum (011) 717-1365 STAY Once In Joburg

(087) 057-2638

WORK – CREATIVE OFFICE SPACE South Point CNR

For more information and details of the 2019 calendar of events visit

(011) 403-3055 (011) 403 7722 (072) 395 4454 (083) 380-4127 (011) 339 6106 (082) 513-4258 (011) 339-1492 (011) 403-1136 (011) 403 1858 (011) 403-0166 (010) 446-7721 (011) 339-1551 (011) 339-1366 (011) 339 8871 (010) 060-0602 (011) 248-2078 (011) 403-9618 (010) 592 1816 (011) 339 1647 (011) 403-6888 (065) 960-3980 (011) 403-0695

BRAAMIES.CO.ZA

(011) 489-1900

Saint restaurant at The Marc, Sandton Central

Foreword & Contents

Johannesburg Welcome to Africa's most diverse and culturally exciting city, Johannesburg, popularly known as Joburg. In this issue you'll find: our pick of a year's worth of events; 25 essential Joburg experiences, from how to explore this art city to the best outdoor activities; and a guide to the coolest neighbourhoods for visitors. We've given you our top picks of where to shop, eat and enjoy nightlife too, but of course we have even more suggestions online that cater to just about every taste. Enjoy our new look city guide, a refreshed, lighter and always handy companion to the City of Gold. It's packed full of reasons to extend your stay.

Editorial: Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman | Assistant Editor Louise Whitworth | Research & writing Melusi Hlatshwayo, Kupakwashe Kambasha | Layout & Design Nicol Paterson | Photography In Your Pocket City Guides or as credited Maps Š In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi Advertising sales and distribution: For print and online advertising and distribution enquiries, contact us at sales.jhb@ inyourpocket.com, tel. + 27 11 268 1490.

Copyright notice: Text and photos are copyright of In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Europe).

Address: In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Perch Flexible Office Space, 37 Bath Ave, Rosebank, 2196 Published September 2019. Cover photo by Viva Sage, @vivasage.

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

What's on 6 A round-up of Joburg's key seasonal events

Essential sightseeing

12

25 Essential experiences to add to your itinerary

Joburg's Neighbourhoods City Centre

Rosebank Sandton Melville, The Parks and Linden Soweto

Basics & Getting Around

20 20 28 31 32 34

Must-have information to make your life easier

35 35

Maps

37

All map references in our listings refer to our City Centre or Rosebank and Sandton maps.

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On Linden Market. Photo by Esthe Pretorius

What’s On THE JOBURG YEAR SEPTEMBER (SPRING) September heralds the arrival of spring with its warmer days, late afternoon thunderstorms and packed programme of outdoor festivals. This is also Heritage Month in South Africa and the country celebrates the Heritage Day public holiday on September 24.

The month’s biggest music festival is the Standard Bank Joy of Jazz (26.09–28.09, joyofjazz.co.za) which brings the world’s finest jazz musicians to Sandton for three music-filled days. Sandton also hosts the city’s biggest contemporary art fair FNB Art Joburg (13.09-15.09, artjoburg.com) while the historic Constitution Hill is the venue for the annual South African Book Fair (06.09– 08.09, southafricanbookfair.co.za).

YOUR GUIDE TO JOBURG'S BEST EVENTS THE JOBURG WEEK Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed. Art exhibition openings are generally held on Thursday nights or Saturday mornings. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – visit neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville or Rosebank for the widest choice of nightlife.

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Friday or Saturday night, best make a reservation. If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km Park Runs (parkrun.co.za) on weekend mornings in the city’s parks.

Typically the first week of the month is when the city’s events calendar is at its busiest. On the First Thursday evening of the month, the art gallery filled neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Rosebank come to life with exhibitions, launches, live music and DJ sets as part of First Thursdays (first-thursdays.co.za). In Braamfontein there is a free jazz concert at Wits Art Museum and in Rosebank, book tickets for the monthly Keyes Thursdays street party at Keyes Art Mile which includes food trucks, pop-up bars, live bands and exhibitions (keyesartmile.co.za). On the first Sunday of the month the Victoria Yards community of artists and makers hosts First Sundays, an open artist studio day complemented by live music, a craft and produce market, exhibitions and performances (victoriayards.co.za).

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

OUR ONLINE EVENTS GUIDE

Jody Paulsen, Find Your Gaggle, 2019, SMAC Gallery

Every week in Joburg presents a rich choice of interesting theatre, exhibitions, concerts, talks, tours and other cultural events that showcase this city’s exciting creative culture. Daily we update our online events calendar at johannesburg.inyourpocket.com/events to bring you the ultimate guide to the coolest events.

You can view a three-day events guide by downloading our In Your Pocket City Essentials app or sign up for our exclusive weekly newsletter to see where to be at bit.ly/ whatsoninjoburg.

We also share our favourite tips for the week’s best events on social media. Follow us on your favourite social media channel to stay up to speed: @JohannesburgIYP @JohannesburgInYourPocket

OCTOBER In late September and October Joburg’s thousands of jacaranda trees burst into blossom, showering the city with a blaze of blooms. Admire the purple spring in the city’s older suburbs including Rosebank, Kensington, Parkwood and Westcliff using our online jacaranda route guide.

This month also sees a number of popular annual food and wine events including: the Stellenbosch Wine Festival (05.10–06.10 stellenboschwinefestival.co.za), RMB WineX (30.10-01.11 winex.co.za), Handmade Contemporary (11.10–13.10 sanlamhmc.co.za) and one of Joburg’s biggest music festivals Can Do In the City (06.10 inthecityjhb.co.za) which always attracts major international rap, hip hop and alternative acts.

The annual Johannesburg Pride (26.10, prideofafrica. org) mardi gras parade takes place in Sandton.

ART CITY The city's art calendar is one of its most enlivening aspects, with weekly art exhibition openings, major art fairs, regular open artist studio days, exciting art auctions and a bumper collection of leading art galleries (many of them privately owned), not to mention the eye-catching murals on the streets of the inner city. See our online events calendar for our weekly picks. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Saxonwold jacarandas. Photo by Mark Straw

JohannesburgInYourPocket

Racing at Turffontein Racecourse

NOVEMBER November feels like the start of summer and the build-up to Christmas begins. Throughout the month look out for outdoor festivals and special open-air Christmas markets.

Major markets include the Glenshiel Christmas Fair (31.10–3.11) held in the gardens of the historic Glenshiel house, the delightful Parkview Christmas Market in George Hay Park (29.11–01.12) and the massive Linden Market (30.11–01.12) at Johannesburg Botanical Gardens.

The annual Janice Honeyman Pantomime at Joburg Theatre is also a popular festive season family must-do (2.11–22.12, joburgtheatre.com). Meanwhile art lovers should make sure to visit Strauss & Co auction house to see the impressive collection of Modern, Post-War and Contemporary Art on sale on their live auction scheduled for November 11. This month is also the start of the horse racing season. For an unforgettable night out at the track don’t miss the Equinity Night Race (16.11) at Turffontein, while the biggest race of the year is always the incredibly glamorous Gauteng Summer Cup (30.11), a fun-filled day out at the track.

The annual pantomime at Joburg Theatre

DECEMBER (SUMMER) In the lead-up to South Africa’s big summer holiday you can expect a packed programme of festive parties happening across the city before everything slows down for Christmas and New Year break. Don’t be surprised to find lots of smaller restaurants, cafés and art galleries closed for a summer holiday in late December.

There are plenty of public holidays this month including Reconciliation Day (16.12), Christmas Day, Boxing Day (26.12) and New Year’s Day. Sport fans should definitely catch the Gautrain to Centurion to watch the first cricket Test match between England and South Africa at SuperSport Park (from 26.12) while the massive Afropunk Joburg festival (30.12–31.12, afropunk.com) is the city’s biggest annual music festival, headlined this year by Solange, Masego and Goldlink.

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

7

What’s On JANUARY January is Joburg’s quietest month with many locals tending to extend their holidays into the middle of the month.

On January 24 the third Test match between England and South Africa starts at Joburg’s iconic Wanderers Stadium, while theatre fans can look forward to seeing the classic Broadway hit musical the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Montecasino (17.01–1.03).

FEBRUARY Look out for plenty of romantic specials on the city’s restaurant menus this month as Joburg joins the world in marking Valentine’s Day (14.02).

The Wanderers hosts the annual ‘Pinkday’ ODI cricket match with the Proteas playing in pink against England in aid of breast cancer awareness (09.02), then they take on England again in a T20 match at Centurion (16.02), followed by a T20 match against Australia (21.02) at The Wanderers (cricket.co.za). The Sandton Convention Centre hosts the huge Meetings Africa conference (24.02–26.02, meetingsafrica.co.za). This month also look out for the first race day in the three-leg Triple Crown series at Turffontein Racecourse.

MARCH (AUTUMN) On March 21 South Africa marks the Human Rights Day public holiday. Look out for the annual Human Rights Festival happening at Constitution Hill from 20.03–22.03 with a busy programme of art exhibitions, lectures, film screenings and poetry performances. Late March and early April (depending on this summer’s rainfall) is usually the climax of the Triple Crown series with the SA Classic race followed by the SA Derby, run at Turffontein over 2,450 metres.

Nirox Sculpture Park

APRIL Easter falls on April 12, Good Friday and Easter Monday are both public holidays in South Africa and the long weekend usually brings a fun line-up of festivals. April 27 is also a public holiday, known as Freedom Day. It marks the first democratic election held in 1994, followed a few days later by yet another public holiday, Worker’s Day on May 1.

Africa’s longest-running family lifestyle expo, the Rand Show, takes place during Easter week at the Nasrec Expo Centre near Soweto (08.04–13.04, randshow.co.za) and in Soweto there’s the annual Soweto Camp Festival at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers. April’s other major festival is the annual Back to the City in Newtown (27.04, backtothecity.co.za) which is the biggest hip hop festival in Africa, attracting more than 20,000 people. At Turffontein Racecourse check out the annual Royal Race Day, named for (South African-born) Princess Charlene of Monaco who is a patron of the event.

William Kentridge, Caged Woman from give and take (detail) R20 000 – 30 000

South African and International Art 9 – 16 September 2019 We will be at Latitudes Art Fair and Hilton Arts Festival with a selection of highlights from the September Online auction

18 – 25 November 2019 ONLINE-ONLY Auctions Back To The City Festival. Photo by GAS Photographic

Browse > Bid > Buy

Rocky Horror Picture Show at Montecasino

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MAY May 25 is celebrated across the continent as Africa Day. Although not a public holiday, it's a great opportunity to celebrate African diversity.

Look out for Bassline Fest, which brings a pan-African line-up of major live bands to the city. Other popular events in May include the Kingsmead Book Fair in Rosebank and the Winter Sculpture Fair at Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za

What’s On JUNE (WINTER) June 16 is Youth Day, a South African public holiday held in remembrance of the Soweto student riots of June 1976, and the entire month of June is celebrated as Youth Month.

Major annual festivals with a youth month focus include Basha Uhuru, a celebration of contemporary youth culture, creativity and music at Constitution Hill. In midJune the Institut Francaise and Alliance Francaise host one of Joburg’s biggest free music festivals, Fete de la Musique (fetedelamusiquejhb.co.za), on Newtown's streets.

Also keep an eye out for Africa’s biggest documentary film festival, Encounters (encounters.co.za) this month.

THEATRES Joburg has more theatres than anywhere else in the country showcasing everything from comedy to drama, art to ballet, pantomimes to performance art.

Here’s a look at the city’s top theatres.

AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Focused on local drama and comedy.QNelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 82 553 5901, theatreonthesquare.co.za.

THE CENTRE FOR THE LESS GOOD IDEA Experimental theatre and performance space founded by artist William Kentridge.QArts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, lessgoodidea.com.

JOBURG THEATRE Best for popular mainstream productions including comedy, ballet, opera, drama, and musical tributes.

Q163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 877 6800, joburgtheatre.com

Basha Uhuru festival

JULY July is the middle of winter in Joburg and the coldest month of the year. Bringing some festive cheer to the chilly nights look out for fun ‘Christmas in July’ parties.

July 18 is Nelson Mandela’s birthday and in his honour, this day is known globally as Mandela Day. Across the world people are encouraged to donate 67 minutes of their time to charitable activities on this day, in recognition of the 67 years that Nelson Mandela devoted to establishing a free South Africa as an activist, political prisoner and president. This month also sees one of Joburg’s most popular art fairs, the always memorable Turbine Art Fair (turbineartfair.co.za).

MARKET THEATRE Historic theatre showcasing award-winning South African productions.QCnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za.

MONTECASINO THEATRES See Broadway musicals at The Teatro while Pieter Toerien Theatre focuses on local productions.QMontecasino, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, montecasino.co.za.

POP ART THEATRE Small, edgy and exciting independent theatre space.

Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040, popartcentre.co.za.

SOWETO THEATRE Mainly used for concerts and poetry recitals, the theatre also stages plays produced by local writers.QCnr Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, sowetotheatre.com.

CINEMA Nelson Mandela

AUGUST August is Women’s Month in South Africa and August 9 is Women’s Day. Because it falls on Sunday the following day (10.08) is a public holiday. Throughout the month look out for exhibitions, talks and events that spotlight the work of female artists, musicians and activists.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The Bioscope independent cinema leads the pack for indie, arthouse, African, and foreign-language films in Joburg with regular film festivals, classic movie screenings and fun sing-along movie nights (286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za). For Hollywood blockbusters there’s nationwide cinema chains NuMetro (tel. 0861 246 362, numetro.co.za) and Ster Kinekor (tel. +27 82 167 89, sterkinekor.com) and in Rosebank Mall, the arthouse Cinema Nouveau. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sam Nhlengethwa, Triangle R150 000 – 200 000

Modern, Post-War and Contemporary Art Auction in Johannesburg 11 November 2019

89 Central Street, Houghton Enquiries 011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | www.straussart.co.za

What to see

What to see

Whether you are seeking art and culture, history and heritage, or adrenaline-charged aerial adventures, this is our pick of 25 essential experiences to add to your Joburg itinerary.

1

LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY AT THE APARTHEID MUSEUM An extraordinary museum that brings to life the horrors of apartheid: from the petty cruelties inflicted on the everyday lives of black South Africans to state repression and violence. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. We recommend you give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R100, kids, pensioners and students R85. Not suitable for young kids.

2

REMEMBER THE FORCED REMOVALS OF 1955 AT SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its nonwhite residents into distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of 1940s ANC president, Dr A.B. Xuma, dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals. The museum offers walking tours of the suburb led by residents of old Sophiatown or you can book a tour with the dynamic Mbali Zwane of Eyitha Tours (eyithatours.yolasite.com).Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130 or +27 11 673 1271.

Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Admission R60.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

3

HEAR THE STORY OF MANDELA'S TREASON TRIAL AT LILIESLEAF Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia, Sandton, was once the antiapartheid movement's secret headquarters. This is where Nelson Mandela co-founded the ANC’s armed wing.

With his comrades, he was handed down a life sentence for his activities here in the 1964 Rivonia Trial. Interactive displays and archival footage detail this incredible story.

Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf. co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. Admission R110 (incl. a guided tour), kids R50.

4

EXPLORE THE CITY CENTRE ON A WALKING TOUR Take a guided walk to uncover hidden aspects of the city.

It's also a safe and easy way to encounter the city for the first time. There are a variety of unique tours that focus on everything from street art to architecture, food to African fabric shopping. We recommend: Dlala Nje (dlalanje.org, tel. +27 67 082 8168) for experiencing the African melting pot suburbs of Hillbrow and Yeoville, JoburgPlaces for underground storytelling dinners and rooftop tours (joburgplaces.com, tel. +27 82 894 5216), MainStreetWalks to explore Maboneng and surrounds (tel. +27 72 880 9583, mainstreetwalks.co.za), Past Experiences for specialised graffiti tours (tel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za), and MicroAdventure Tours for unique nightlife experiences and high tea in a heritage home (microadventuretours.co.za, +27 83 772 4678). For more, see our website. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SEE SOUTH AFRICA’S HISTORY TOLD THROUGH COINS AT AFRICA’S BIGGEST MINT After a visit to Coin World, the South African Mint’s museum and store, you'll develop a new respect for what you might formerly have thought of as loose change. This small but impressive museum tells the story of one of the world’s biggest coin manufacturers and the history of money. From 800-year-old South African coins to one of the oldest working steam-operated minting machines, and of course the iconic Kruger Rand bullion coin, there's a remarkable collection of unusual exhibits.QCoin World, cnr Old Johannesburg and Brakfontein Rds, Gateway, Centurion, tel. +27 12 677 2460, samint.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Mon 13:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–14:00.

6

VISIT JOBURG'S NATIONAL HERITAGE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the city. A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, Number 4 Prison Block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people who passed through this place. Art tours of the Court's stirring collection are also available.QD-2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00– 17:00. Admission to museum areas R80, kids R40 (incl. optional one hour guided tour). Admission and a two-hour guided tour R100, kids R65, students, pensioners R70.

7

TRAVEL BACK IN TIME TO THE VICTORIAN ERA AT LINDFIELD HOUSE Lindfield House is a unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era.

Love is able to brilliantly conjure the Victorian period through her vast knowledge of everyday habits and is very much part of the lavish exhibits that spread across 18 rooms.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open by appointment only. Admission R100, kids, pensioners R50.

The Old Fort exhibition, Constitution Hill

25

ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING EXPERIENCES

Apartheid Museum. Photo by Subodh Agnihotri, Shutterstock

5

8

GET THE CITY'S BEST VIEWS FROM THE 50TH FLOOR OF THE PONTE TOWER Dlala Nje (meaning 'Just Play' in isiZulu) is an innovative company based in Hillbrow’s iconic Ponte building that offers memorable walking and food experiences of the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow and Yeoville.

Their aim is to dispel myths about these notorious suburbs and showcase the unusual history and various African communities that make these areas of the city so distinctive. You’ll get awe-inspiring views from Dlala Nje's 51stfloor apartment at the top of the Ponte building, where they also host events and discussion evenings led by leading political commentators.QTel. +27 67 082 8168, dlalanje.org, email info@dlalanje.org. Tours from R400.

5101 еvents Changing perceptions & creating opportunity in the heart of the city of gold.

→ A stroll in Jozi’s most misunderstood ‘hood

Book your experience!

→ Joburg in the clouds - a tailor made experience for up to 50 people!

→ A journey through an icon’s undulating history

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→

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www.dlalanje.org | info@dlalanje.org | +27 67 082 8168

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

13

What to see

What to see

Market on Main, Maboneng

13

MARKET DAYS

9

SHOP FOR CRAFTS AT BRYANSTON MARKET Every Thursday and Saturday Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, organic food stalls and a fine collection of traditional African fabrics. This is hands down one of the best places in Joburg to shop for highquality souvenirs with dozens of talented resident artisans who specialise in different traditional crafts. There are also plenty of delicious food stalls. Try the crepes at La Cuisine du Jardin, vegan soul food from Organic Leaves, gluten-free South Indian dosas from Meera’s and for organic Fair Trade coffee, Bettina’s Café.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat 09:00–15:00.

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SATURDAYS IN BRAAMFONTEIN Known for its youthful energy, abundant and colourful street art and busy nightlife, Joburg’s student heartland is at its liveliest on Saturdays when the streets fill with visitors. One of the biggest drivers of this extra foot traffic is the famous weekly rooftop Neighbourgoods Market. Braamfontein’s art galleries are also open on Saturdays, with exhibition walkabouts and launches often on the schedule. For edgy contemporary art exhibitions check out Kalashnikovv and BKhz on Juta Street and visit Wits Art Museum, where there’s a regular programme of Saturday morning events. After you've explored the art galleries, fashion stores and market there’s always more reason to stay on if you like to party. For details, check out our Braamfontein neighbourhood guide on page 20.

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SPEND A DAY AT THE RACES AT TURFFONTEIN RACECOURSE Spend a Saturday at Turffontein racecourse and you can’t help but be impressed that you are taking part in a ritual just about as old as the city itself. Of course the Sport of Kings long predates Johannesburg’s founding in 1886 in the wake of a gold mining boom, but the tradition of going to the races just a few kilometres south of Johannesburg’s city centre started in 1887 and has continued mostly uninterrupted ever since.

Today Turffontein hosts more than 40 race days throughout the year which include the prestigious Summer Cup, and the Triple Crown held between February and May. From the grounds of Turffontein you'll get a commanding view of Joburg's skyline in the shimmering distance.

Whether trackside or at a private table on the City Deck you'll feel the thrill when those horses come down the straight. After each race there’s a victory parade and much jubilation. With single bets starting from under R10 you can go far on a budget. If you’re just there to watch, Turffontein itself is a fun destination with plenty of open green space and place to seat the family, plus on race days, attractions for kiddies and live entertainment.Q14 Turf Club St, Turffontein, itsarush.co.za.

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SUNDAYS IN MABONENG One of Joburg’s great regeneration stories, Maboneng (meaning Place of Light) was originally a gritty industrial warehouse and factory district named City and Suburban. The neighbourhood’s remaking began in 2009 with the launch of Arts On Main (cnr Fox and Main Sts) which is home to cool stores, artist studios, William Kentridge’s Centre for the Less Good Idea performance workshop, David Krut print workshop and the weekly Market on Main, the heartbeat of Sundays in Maboneng. After exploring the market and enjoying the sunny courtyard stroll up Fox Street, Maboneng’s high street, and take your pick from pavement cafés, bars and restaurants. Movie buffs should stick around to watch the latest African arthouse films and documentaries at Joburg’s independent cinema The Bioscope, while energetic visitors should not miss out on a cycling tour of the area by MainStreetWalks or a skateboarding tour with City Skate Tours. These leave from Maboneng’s popular backpackers, Curiocity. For more on what to see, and where to go in Maboneng, see page 22.

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WEEKENDS IN SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto, has no shortage of important heritage landmarks to visit marking apartheid history and there are also lots of fun ways to experience this historic place, from tuk tuk tours to quad biking. Weekends are the liveliest time to visit, especially on the first Saturday of the month when Soweto Theatre hosts the Soweto Art and Craft Market and the first Sunday of the month when the hip Locrate Market happens at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers. See our Soweto neighbourhood guide on page 34 for more. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

14

HOP ON AND OFF THE CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open-top, hop-on hop-off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The City Tour starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include: Apartheid Museum and Gold Reef City Theme Park and casino, Carlton Centre where you can get a panoramic view of the city at Roof of Africa, and the James Hall Museum of Transport (two hours without stops).

The Green Tour (one hour) starts from The Zone@ Rosebank (outside the Rosebank Gautrain station) and stops at the Johannesburg Zoo and Ditsong Museum of Military History before linking to the city tour at Constitution Hill. A short walk from the Zoo entrance is the Johannesburg Holocaust and Genocide Centre museum with an excellent permanent exhibition. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus from Rosebank at 15:10.QBuses Mon–Fri every 40 mins, Sat–Sun every 30 mins. Tel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za.

Tickets from R200 (R180 online). Soweto combo ticket R480. Photo by Felix Lipov, Shutterstock.

JohannesburgInYourPocket

A place of creativity, health &

wellbeing Thursday and Saturday 9am to 3pm

Free Entrance 20 mins from Sandton 40 Culross Road, Bryanston

bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

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Keyes Art Mile. Photo by Rich T, Shutterstock

What to see

JOBURG ART CITY

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EXPLORE ARTISAN WORKSHOPS AND ARTIST STUDIOS AT VIC YARDS A once derelict complex in eastern Joburg, Victoria Yards has been spectacularly remade and houses a growing community of artists and artisans. A maker's space, most of the businesses here have a workshop or studio. Bountiful gardens link art galleries, fashion studios, a craft brewery, gin distillery, coffee shops and a fish and chip shop. First Sunday of the month is open studio day with a market, live music, food trucks and pop-up exhibitions. Saturdays there’s a farmer’s market.Q16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za.

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ADMIRE JOBURG'S STREET ART Joburg has a flourishing community of graffiti and street artists, and amazing murals across the city. Braamfontein is home to street art gallery and spray paint store, Grayscale. Explore the neighbourhood on a graffiti walking tour with Past Experiences (tel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za) or take in Newtown with Jozy Triangel (tel. +27 67 279 3288, jozytriangel.co.za).

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CHECK OUT JOBURG'S AUCTION SCENE ​​ From paintings by world-renowned South African artists worth millions, to contemporary prints for a few thousand rand, mid-century furniture, vintage jewellery and collectable books you can find it all at a Joburg auction. Pre-auction open days are also an opportunity to view remarkable artworks before they disappear into private collections. South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co dedicates itself to promoting and preserving South Africa’s extraordinary art history. As well as a number of major live auctions annually in Joburg and Cape Town, Strauss & Co also presents a regular art talks programme, valuation days, and exhibitions at their Houghton art gallery. Not only for high rollers, their regular online art and collectables auctions offer works at prices starting at R1,500.QStrauss & Co, 89 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 728 8246, straussartonline.co.za. Open 08:30– 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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GET A TASTE FOR CONTEMPORARY DESIGN IN ROSEBANK AND ILLOVO In Illovo The Design Assemblage is a 'think and do' space for the design community that is part design showroom and part creative hangout. There’s plenty of space for working on your laptop, good coffee and a programme of weekly events (most of them free) led by local design industry experts (Oxford Manor, 196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 71 100 7834, thedesignassemblage.com). A fiveminute drive from here at the corner of Keyes and Jellicoe Avenues, Rosebank, is Keyes Art Mile, home to top contemporary art galleries and True Design, which stocks global labels Moroso, Cassina and Kartell.

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What to see

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GO FOR A SWIM AT A LOCAL POOL Beat the heat at one of Joburg’s public pools. The city has more than 50 public pools, and while some are not in optimal condition others are spotlessly clean. The historic Zoo Lake Baths are one of Joburg’s most delightful public pools, attracting the young and old from all walks of life. The pool is 30m2 so if the shallow end is full with kids you can still comfortably complete your laps. Zoo Lake Baths is an unheated outdoor pool so it is only open from September until May. At Ellis Park in the shadow of the iconic rugby stadium is an Olympic-sized heated pool (open year-round). Most public pools in Joburg do not have lockers so we recommend you don't bring your valuables along.

Ellis Park Swimming PoolQG-3, Cnr North Ln and Erin St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5565. Open 07:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00 (year-round). Admission R11, kids R6.

Zoo Lake Swim BathsQCnr Prince of Wales and Lower Park Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 8495. Open 10:00–17:45 (September–April). Admission R11, kids R6.

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EXPLORE THE CITY ON A CYCLING TOUR While Joburg is very much a car-oriented city, in recent years cycling culture has taken off and there are now more cyclists taking to Joburg’s roads than ever before. Experiencing the city and nearby attractions like Soweto and the Cradle of Humankind has never been easier with lots of dedicated cycling tour operators who also offer bike rental as part of their packages. Recommended bike tour specialists include MicroAdventure Tours for tours of the Joburg City Centre (including a coffee tour) and the Cradle of Humankind (+27 83 772 4678, microadventuretours.co.za) and Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tours in Soweto (+27 11 936 3444, sowetobicycletours.com).

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TAKE A DAY TRIP TO THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND Some of the world's oldest hominid fossils were discovered just a 45-minute drive north of Joburg in the Cradle of Humankind, now a world heritage site, and remains of our ancient ancestors continue to be found here. Discoveries include the 2.3 million-year-old hominid skull known as Mrs Ples and the mysterious Little Foot which is thought to be over three million years old.

The most famous recent discovery made here is Homo Naledi, a collection of 15 partial skeletons belonging to a new hominid species, revealed to the world with much fanfare in 2015. Debate still rages about the significance.

The scientists who discovered the fossils believe that the exceedingly difficult to access cave in which the fossils were found indicates that these hominids did not die by accident, but were placed here deliberately. If this theory is true it would mean that Homo Naledi (a species between 200,000 and 300,000 years old) was possibly self-aware and capable of complex thought and ritual – and therefore an 'almost human' species.

Maropeng, the visitor’s centre for the Cradle of Humankind located around 50 minutes drive north-west of Sandton, is the place to explore these discoveries. Maropeng’s extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind and the spread of people across continents. The stories behind the discoveries made here are also showcased alongside copies of the original fossils.

Long March to Freedom is an impressive and evergrowing collection of some 100 life-size bronze figures, installed in front of the Maropeng Visitor’s Centre, that com-

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ENJOY SPECTACULAR VIEWS ON AN URBAN HIKE Joburg is set across a series of rugged, rocky ridges and there are some easy hiking trails that you can enjoy that will reveal awesome city views. The newly revived The Wilds (Houghton Dr, Houghton) with its colourful sculptures of African wildlife has stunning views of the downtown city skyline (also a good picnic spot). Slightly further afield in Roodepoort, a 30-minute drive from Sandton, the 300-hectare Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens offers a taste of the countryside with an impressive waterfall at its centre, abundant indigenous flora, a network of short hiking trails and expansive manicured lawns to which to relax afterwards (sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Admission R50, students, pensioners R30, scholars R15. Kids under 6 free). Three-hour guided walks of the beautiful Melville Koppies leave every Sunday (see the schedule online at mk.org.za. Tours start from the parking entrance opposite the Marks Park Sports Club, Judith Rd, Emmarentia, and cost R60, R40 for kids). Guides introduce tour groups to the flora, fauna, ecology, archaeology and history of this beautiful nature reserve. There is no booking required. Just turn up on time as tours leave promptly.

memorates the lives of historical figures who have played a role in South Africa’s long journey to democracy. There is a sense of triumph conveyed by the poses of the figures, and in many cases a depiction of joy in their expressions.

Another warming aspect of the exhibition is the focus too on the female partners of historical figures, and on the love stories behind the political struggles.

A perfect accompaniment to the museum is a guided tour of the Sterkfontein Caves (just a five-minute drive from here) where the remains of Little Foot, Mrs Ples and other famous fossils were found. Cave tours take around 45 minutes and are worth doing. They are however not recommended for the unfit as there are numerous steps and places where you are required to kneel or crawl.

If you don’t have time to travel to the Cradle of Humankind, visit the excellent Origins Centre in Braamfontein.

The museum explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80,000-year path to its African source. It also includes an extensive collection of rock art and ancient tools, and artefacts of spiritual significance to early humans.

MaropengQR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort (around 30-minutes drive from Sandton), tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Cave tours every 30 mins, last tour at 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission to Visitors Centre R120, Sterkfontein Caves R165, combination ticket (Maropeng and Sterkfontein Caves) R190. Discounts for students, pensioners, kids.

Origins CentreQCnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, wits.ac.za/origins.

Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Admission R81, discounts for pensioners, students, kids.

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CONQUER YOUR FEARS ON A ZIPLINE TRAIL There are many ways to get high and make your pulse race in Joburg without getting into serious trouble. At Acrobranch in Melrose test your head for heights by ziplining from tree to tree. There are five courses to choose from appropriate for all ages with plenty of obstacles to tackle.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

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EMBARK ON A SUNDAY MORNING HIKE ACROSS DOORNFONTEIN RIDGE On a Sunday morning book to join inner-city tour company Dlala Nje on a unique trek across the Doornfontein and Observatory Ridge. This unusual urban hike offers spectacular views of the downtown skyline and also presents a unique insight into the early morning rituals of local church communities and other city dwellers from a variety of backgrounds who worship on the ridge.QTel. +27 67 082 8168, dlalanje.org, email info@dlalanje.org. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Long Walk to Freedom exhibition at Maropeng

HEAD OUTDOORS

The Wilds. Photo by James Delaney

RELAX IN THE PARK Joburg is blessed with a fantastic climate for enjoying the outdoors. In spring and summer the sun is just about always out and the temperature ranges between 25-30°C, perfect for relaxing in the park with a picnic.

Among our favourite parks are the sprawling Johannesburg Botanical Gardens on the banks of the Emmarentia Dam, particularly lovely in spring with its terraced lawns and rose gardens. Zoo Lake (opposite the Johannesburg Zoo in Parkview) is another popular park with a small lake where you can rent rowboats. There's also an Africanthemed restaurant, Moyo, and a very down-to-earth pub at the Zoo Lake Bowling Club. The city's parks are open only during daylight hours and there is no entrance fee.

JohannesburgInYourPocket

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

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City Centre

Neighbourhoods

KITCHENER'S CARVERY BAR  Once a grand old colonial hotel, by day this is a quiet pub and by night a late-night party hotspot.QC-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za.

Open 10:00–04:00.

70 Juta Street, Braamfontein

NEIGHBOURGOODS  Hip rooftop market with delicious food, live music, vintage fashion and plenty of craft beer, Neighbourgoods attracts a fun-loving and friendly crowd.QC-3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 0413, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/ johannesburg. Every Sat 09:00–16:00.

JOBURG'S BEST NEIGHBOURHOODS FOR VISITORS Johannesburg is a sprawling city with three centres, the historic City Centre (Joburg CBD or simply ‘town’), and the northern suburbs of Sandton and Rosebank that have become Joburg’s new commercial and financial centres. Urban life tends to spread across many suburbs, each with its own distinct identity and style. We've highlighted Joburg's most visitor-friendly neighbourhoods here. Within the distinctive historic City Centre is student-filled Braamfontein, urban shabby chic Maboneng, heritage-rich Main Street Mining District, Ferreirasdorp and Fordsburg. Rosebank is Joburg's polished lifestyle district with plenty of great restaurants, art galleries, corporate HQs and stores, and is a winner for walkability. Sandton is skyscraper-rich, vast in size and the mall capital. The smaller pretty-tree-lined suburbs of Melville, The Parks and Linden lie between Rosebank and Sandton. South of the City Centre lies Soweto, South Africa's most famous township.

BRAAMFONTEIN One of Joburg’s most vibrant examples of inner-city regeneration, the student district of Braamfontein (or simply ‘Braam’ to locals) is defined by its edgy galleries, abundant street art, busy nightlife, café culture and an addictive creative energy that attracts a youthful alternative crowd. A day (or night) spent exploring Braam’s lively streets is one of the best ways to get a taste for the fast pace of Joburg's urban life. Major Braamfontein hotspots include the colourful piazza The Grove (cnr Juta, Melle and De Korte Sts) which is also a stop on the City Sightseeing bus and the location of the cool backpackers hostel Once in Joburg.

Another dining and nightlife hub is the bustling corner of De Beer and Juta Streets where contemporary art galleries like Kalashnikovv and BKhz rub shoulders with lively bars such as Kitchener's and The Bannister Hotel bar.

99 JUTA  This restored Art Deco building houses the showrooms of leading local interior design labels such as Dokter and Misses and Urban Native.QC-3, 99 Juta St. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

AMAZI  A beautifully designed and socially-conscious nail salon.

QC-3, 6 Reserve St, tel. +27 79 623 6142, amazibeauty. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. THE ARTIVIST  A cool DJ-owned restaurant, bar and art gallery that serves some of the best food in the area. Downstairs is a sexy club and events venue, The Untitled Basement.QC-3, 7 Reserve St, tel. +27 11 339 1647. Open 10:00–22:30 Tue, Wed 10:30–18:00. Closed Sun. BLACK FOREST BAKERY  Queue here for authentic German breads and pastries.QC3, 102 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 0065, blackforestbakery. co.za. Open 07:00–16:30, Sat 06:00–12:30. Closed Sun. DOUBLESHOT COFFEE AND TEA  ‘Farm, roast, brew’ is the tagline of this friendly coffee shop.QC-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, tel. +27 83 380 4127, doubleshot.co.za. Open 07:45–16:30. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

PUMA AND DASSLER'S  This enticing Puma concept store has some fun surprises including a hidden courtyard café called Dassler's – the name is a nod to Puma's founder – which serves the best value all-day breakfasts and has a regular free programme of performances and DJ parties (open Mon-Fri).QC-3, Cnr De Korte and Melle Sts, tel. +27 87 230 7306, puma.com.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

WITS ART MUSEUM AND WAM CAFÉ  This contemporary museum has a regularly changing programme of impressive art exhibitions. The adjoining café, WAM Café, serves canteen-style lunches at prices that are student-friendly.QC-3, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00-16:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

IN YOUR POCKET MINI-GUIDES Packed with even more of our top recommendations of the best places to eat, drink, shop and hang out, our series of In Your Pocket mini-guides to Joburg’s key neighbourhoods of Rosebank, Sandton, and the City Centre & Melville, include handy foldable maps that literally fit ‘in your pocket’.

Find our guides to the best tourist neighbourhoods at top hotels, O.R. Tambo International Airport and Lanseria Airport visitor arrivals, at Joburg Tourism Visitor Centres in Sandton and Park Station, City Sightseeing's Rosebank office and, for each neighbourhood, at the Rosebank, Park Station and Sandton Gautrain stations. Ask your hotel concierge for your free copy.

See more at: issuu.com/ johannesburginyourpocket.

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City Centre

Neighbourhoods

MABONENG Maboneng, on the eastern side of the city, was originally a gritty light industrial district named City & Suburban. Fast forward to the present day and what is now known as the Maboneng Precinct has spread across a dozen adjacent blocks and frequently been labelled in the international press as “one of Africa’s coolest neighbourhoods”. One of the best ways to experience the neighbourhood is with a Sunday visit to the bustling Market On Main for a wide variety of street food and cool vintage clothing, located at Arts On Main (cnr Fox and Main Streets). Arts on Main was Maboneng's first new development close to 10 years ago and is home to a number of artist studios, stores and the David Krut bookstore and print workshop – a great place to buy art prints. The private studio, and performance workshop space (Centre for the Less Good Idea) of one of South Africa's most globally well known contemporary artists, William Kentridge, is also here.

Fox Street is Maboneng’s high street, and here you can take your pick from dozens of pavement cafés, bars and restaurants that open out onto the street. Street vendors sell souvenirs and curios along the route. Catch a movie at Joburg’s top independent cinema The Bioscope or watch contemporary theatre at PopArt. Inner-city backpackers Curiocity offers great walking tours of the area.

THE HIDE OUT  Part of Curiocity backpackers hostel, this laid-back bar is a good place to meet fellow travellers over a beer or two.

QG‑5, Curiocity Backpackers, 302 Fox St, tel. +27 11 027 5257 or +27 72 880 9583, curiocitybackpackers.com.

Open 07:00–22:00.

IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :)  This innova­tive photography collective makes unique gifts such as postcards, notebooks and T-shirts emblazoned with urban Joburg images.QG‑5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, tel. +27 10 900 4495, iiilovelocal.com/. Open 07:00– 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00.

LIVING ROOM  This café-bar is a veritable garden in the sky on a fifth-floor rooftop. Cover charges on Sat and Sun.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THE MARABI CLUB  Superb contemporary fine dining, slick service, live jazz and a hidden location indicated only by a bronze door on an inner-city back street.QF‑4, 47 Sivewright Ave, New Doornfontein, tel. +27 10 591 2872, themarabiclub.com.

Open 18:30–24:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Albrecht Street. Photo by Subodh Agnihotri, Shutterstock

THE COSMOPOLITAN  This extraordinary Victorian building was once a hotel and now houses a great book shop, Bridge Books, an art exhibition space and a charming little coffee shop, Home of the Bean, that looks onto a wild sculpture garden.QG‑4/5, 24 Albrecht St (cnr Commissioner St).

EAT YOUR HEART OUT  Delicious Middle Eastern-inspired café.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za.

Open 07:30–16:00, Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon.

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JohannesburgInYourPocket

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City Centre

City Centre

MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT Walk along pedestrianised Main Street from the Carlton Centre to Chancellor House in the historic Main Street Mining District to see the covered wagons, stamp presses and old headgear that have been preserved from Joburg’s early gold rush years. There’s extensive signage outlining how the earliest mines first operated and you'll see the beautiful facades of the grand mining headquarters and various monuments lining the way, including the bronze leaping impalas outside the AngloAmerican building.

On the eastern edge of the Main Street Mining District is the Carlton Centre. Despite being built way back in the 1970s, the hulking 223-metre colossus is still Africa's tallest building. Nowadays the Carlton, like the rest of the area around it, no longer commands the sense of prestige it once did, but the view from the 50th floor remains unrivalled. Although a little shabby, the 360-degree Roof of Africa viewing level is an ideal vantage point to get perspective on the city's incredible scale and its many neighbourhoods. One block west of the towering Carlton Centre is Gandhi Square, home to the exciting Thunderwalker space (see opposite).

On the western edge of the District, the small openair Chancellor House exhibition (at the corner of Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts) details the work of Mandela and Tambo Attorneys who were based here in the 1950s. In front is Marco Cianfanelli’s extraordinary statue of a young Mandela Shadowboxing, a popular stop for photos.

On weekdays office workers enjoy Main Street's cafés and the presence of the many major mining companies and banks ensures that the area is kept clean. While taking a stroll on Main Street, also make a detour to visit the Standard Bank headquarters (5 Simmonds St) where a small museum showcases an old mine tunnel, Ferreira’s Stope, uncovered in the 1980s (open during banking hours). Opposite is the impressive Standard Bank Gallery showcasing excellent contemporary African art exhibitions.

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BRIDGE BOOKS  Independent bookshop that sells new and second-hand books with a focus on works by African writers and poets.

Look out for their fascinating Underground Booksellers Walking Tour of the City Centre monthly.QD‑5, 95 Commissioner St, tel. +27 79 618 9280, bridgebooks.co.za.

Open 08:30–16:30, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. KERK STREET MARKET  A market spanning five city blocks with plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheap clothing and hairdressers who ply their braiding skills from stools on the street.QE‑4, between Harrison and Von Brandis Sts. ELEVATE  This glass-fronted bar and lounge on the 16th floor of the Reef Hotel has one of the best views of the city, perfect for sundowners. To get there head to the hotel reception and follow the signs to the lifts marked Elevate.QE‑5,Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson St, tel. +27 11 689 1000, elevate.co.za.

Open 14:00–22:00.

RAND CLUB  This historic members' club was founded in 1887 for Joburg's colonial mining barons, the ‘Randlords’.

Nowadays the grand interiors have been beautifully restored and the club is open to all. Make a reservation for lunch or drop by for a drink at the city's longest bar where you can order a pewter tankard of beer while admiring the mahogany-panelling. Rand Club also hosts regular events such as opera and High Tea afternoons, Friday night jazz and quiz nights.QE‑5, 33 Loveday St, tel. +27 11 870 4260, randclub.co.za.

The main bar is open 09:00-18:00, closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Kerk Street market. Photo by Subodh Agnihotri, Shutterstock

FNB BANK CITY PRECINCT  First National Bank's newly opened colourful Bank City Precinct spreads across two pedestrianised city blocks and has been designed with plenty of space to sit and relax in the precinct's two piazzas plus a great choice of coffee shops and cafés.QD‑4, Entrances on Pritchard and Simmonds Sts.

AFRICAN FOOD

JAMES FINDLAY BOOKS & MAPS  A wonderful bookshop for collectors with an extraordinary range of rare books, historic maps, vintage postcards and posters located in the grand basement of the historic Rand Club.QD‑5, Rand Club, 33 Loveday St, tel. +27 79 779 4574, jellyfishtree.com. Open 11:00–18:30. Closed Mon.

From Cameroonian grilled fish and Soweto-style shisa nyama (barbecue) to Ethiopian injeera with delicious vegetarian stews, there’s plenty of African food to be found in Joburg. It’s not a strict definition as there’s a lot of African-influenced food too, whether it’s the Indian curries influenced by local cooking styles or Mozambican-style Portuguese food. South African cuisine is similarly a term that covers lots of different styles of cooking including typical Afrikaans boerkos, Cape Malay-style with its mix of local and eastern spices and of course the South African braai (barbecue) or township-style shisa nyama.

KAFE NOIR  Cheap beers, delicious Congolese style grilled fish and a vinyl record player create a chilled atmosphere but the best surprise is upstairs at the rooftop beach bar where sun loungers and cool urban views await.QF‑5, 100 Anderson St, tel. +27 71 013 8537, urbanbackpackers. co.za. Open 08:00-21:00.

SOWETO COOKING EXPERIENCE  Learn to cook some classic Sowetan dishes with the team from Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers. A fun food and cooking experience that includes a food tour, market visit, traditional beer tasting and foraging fresh ingredients from Lebo’s community gardens.QTel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

MAKOTIS

 Family-run fabric shop famous for stocking the biggest range of traditional African fabrics in the city.QE‑4, 112 Helen Joseph St, tel. +27 11 337 1435, makotis.co.za.

Open 10:30–16:00 (Fri closed between 12:30–14:00).

Closed Sun.

ROVING BANTU KITCHEN  An Afro-soul food kitchen serving homemade dishes that are influenced by a variety of African cuisines and ingredients. There's a vibrant programme of live music events plus a 'beach' in the backyard made for lazy days and summer braais.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, rovingbantu.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00, Sun 13:00–18:00. Closed Mon-Wed.

THUNDERWALKER  Beautifully renovated Edwardian building that is home to Scatterlings, a casual lunchtime café set amid an historic arcade, and the astonishing underground bar Zwipi inside an old bank vault. Local walking tour company Joburg Places runs its tours from here, which often end with drinks and storytelling in the atmospheric underground bar.QD/ E‑5, Gandhi Square, tel. +27 82 894 5216, joburgplaces. com/thunderwalker. Reservations essential.

NEWTOWN Separated from Braamfontein by the iconic Nelson Mandela Bridge, Newtown is Joburg’s original cultural precinct, incorporating the historic Market Theatre, the impressively renovated Turbine Hall, an immense public square named after trade unionist Mary Fitzgerald that hosts thousands of people for major cultural events and Museum Africa. The Newtown Junction shopping mall behind the vast Museum Africa building has a busy piazza lined with popular local chain bars and restaurants.

YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB  You couldn’t wish for a better tour guide to the tastes of the pan-African melting pot that is Yeoville than Sanza Sandile. At his bookings-only Yeoville dinner club on bustling Rockey Street, Sanza serves up a ‘Pan Afrikan Plate’ long table dinner made with ingredients sourced from the neighbourhood market and local kitchens. Space is limited and prior booking is essential.QTel. +27 83 447 4235, facebook.com/ yeovilledinnerclub. Costs R475 per person.

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN  Unique fashion emporium in the historic Potato Sheds that showcases an eclectic array of local fashion and design brands including global hit Maxhosa by Laduma for eyecatching knitwear.QC‑4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, tel. +27 60 786 1004, workshopnewtown. co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon. JohannesburgInYourPocket

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City Centre

Fordsburg. Photo by Justin Lee

City Centre

FERREIRASDORP Ferreirasdorp in the City Centre is Joburg’s oldest neighbourhood. The first tents were pitched here in early 1886 by gold prospectors. At the turn of the 20th Century the area was often referred to as 'the Cantonese Quarter' due to its large Chinese community. The remains of Joburg’s First Chinatown can still be found along a row of businesses on Commissioner Street, between Alexander and Miriam Makeba Streets. Ferreirasdorp is also where you will find the stylish 1 Fox Precinct (1 Fox Street). Transformed from a collection of century-old warehouses, this neatly contained complex is an impressive space housing a craft brewery, gin distillery, bars, Urbanologi restaurant and a great beer garden.

SUI HING HONG  Owned by one of the First Chinatown's oldest families, this fantastic supermarket sells everything from fireworks and crockery to freshly-made tofu and hard to find Chinese ingredients.QC‑5, 17 Commissioner St, tel. +27 11 834 7905. Open 08:30–17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00.

THE GOOD LUCK BAR  Atmospheric former dynamite warehouse turned occasional live music venue, named for a bar that stood here in the 1890s gold rush.QC‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, tel. +27 84 683 4413, goodluckbar.co.za. Only open for concerts, check their Facebook page for the latest.

Cover charge for concerts THE LITTLE FOX  An eye-catching, mixologist-led cocktail bar that shares space with leading local craft gin distillery The Ginologist.

QC‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, thelittlefox.co.za. Open 16:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–15:00.

URBANOLOGI & MAD GIANT  The Mad Giant craft brewery shares a fabulous industrial space with Urbanologi restaurant that serves up sublime flavours, using local ingredients sourced within a 150km radius.QC‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00– 18:00. RRR 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

COCKTAILS & CRAFT SPIRITS Forget South Africa’s excellent wines and its world class craft beer scene, craft spirits are the new ‘in’ thing. New cocktail bars where world class mixologists are making the drinks are cropping up across the city and there’s never been a better time to be a cocktail barfly in Joburg. Downtown Joburg, with its abundance of vacant light industrial factory spaces, has become home to several craft gin labels in recent years that are pioneering spirit-making techniques and innovating with exciting flavour profiles. Among them are The Ginologist in 1 Fox Precinct, Time Anchor Distillery in New Doornfontein and Primal Spirits at Victoria Yards.

GANDHI IN JOBURG Mahatma Gandhi came to South Africa in 1893 and lived in Joburg from 1903–1913. He initially worked as a lawyer and the former location of the city’s law courts has been renamed Gandhi Square in his honour. A small statue of the young Gandhi looks out over what is now a busy commuter bus terminus. Over time he became active in the politics of resistance and his activism and philosophy profoundly influenced the fight against apartheid.

On August 16, 1906, he led 3000 supporters – among them Muslims, Hindus and Christians – to Hamidia Mosque (Jennings St, Fordsburg) where they burned their ‘pass’ documents (restrictive papers forced on all people classed ‘non-white’). Artist Usha Seejarim’s symbolic sculpture marks the spot. Two years later Gandhi was jailed for his refusal to carry a pass book, and spent two months in Constitution Hill prison. An excellent exhibition there details his experiences.

From 1908-1909 Gandhi moved into a modest home in Orchards, focusing on developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha, passive resistance. The house is now the Satyagraha Guesthouse and Museum (15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse. com. Open 10:30–16:00). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

FORDSBURG

AFRICAN FABRIC SHOPPING

While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, today the predominantly muslim area is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. There are plenty of cheap and cheerful places to eat everything from north Indian curries and masala dosas to Turkish kebabs and traditional sweetmeats.

In the centre of Fordsburg is the Oriental Plaza a thriving bazaar with fabric shops, spice shops, fast fashion, a great luggage selection, kid’s toys, sari silks, haberdashery and budget-priced homewares. The plaza boasts more than 350 stores where you can shop for armfuls of bracelets, handstitched Indian cotton quilts, bejewelled slippers, a huge range of wedding ware, glamorous evening dresses and much more plus, not forgetting the best coconut samoosas in town at the legendary World of Samoosas. This centre also has the reputation of being a fair-priced jewellery Mecca.

From intricately patterned shweshwe to the distinctive woollen Basotho blankets worn by the people of Lesotho, and ubiquitous wax-printed kanga or kitenge cloth (traditionally worn sarong-style or as a head wrap) printed with portraits of political leaders, the variety of colours, patterns and materials used in traditional African clothing seem endless. While cheap Chinese imports abound, there are just as many authentic African fabrics available in Joburg, made using traditional techniques. Labels to look out for include Da Gama’s Three Cats Original Shweshwe and the Basotho blankets made by Aranda textile mills.

Head to Bryanston Market for high-quality organic and ethically-sourced fabrics. For handmade readyto-wear clothing referincing African cultures check out African Renaissance and also look out for the stall specialising in woven Ethiopian shawls and table linen.

At Rosebank’s daily African Art and Craft Market you can barter for bright ready-to-wear Afro-chic fashion and a wide choice of fabrics from across the continent.

The Oriental Plaza is one of the city’s most famous fabric shopping destinations with more than 350 stores, among them fabric shops and haberdashery abound with a wide range of African and Asian materials plus ready-to-wear traditional clothing for sale at unbeatable prices.

In the historic Fashion District Makotis is famous for a fantastic range of shweshwe and batik fabrics. A family-owned business this is one of the city’s oldest traditional fabric retailers.

BAPS SHAYONAS  This vegetarian restaurant, deli and spice shop is the catering arm of the Hindu Swaminarayan Temple in neighbouring Mayfair. Weekends here are very busy but still the best time to go for delicious thalis and the best masala dosa in town.Q74 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 837 2407, shayona.co.za. Open 09:30–20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30–21:00, Sun 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R. ISTANBUL KEBAB  Succulent kebabs with a dizzying array of meats to choose from, accompanied by generous sides of fresh salads and dips. Settle in with a hookah pipe. Their namesake city would be proud.QB‑5, 52 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 056 5749, istanbulkebab.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30–22:00. RR. ORIENTAL PLAZA  From clothing to fabrics, haberdashery, homeware, luggage and gifts, this shopping centre is paradise for bargain hunters.QB‑5, 38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. SHALIMAR DELIGHTS  A feast for the eyes of exquisitely prepared and delicious Indian sweetmeats made using traditional butter ghee and milk and lots of patience.QB‑5, 228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 11 832 1675, shalimardelights.com. Open 09:00–21:00. R. WORLD OF SAMOOSAS  Tucked into the shopping mecca Oriental Plaza this busy place that usually has a queue waiting is famous for its wide variety of samoosas. Try the coconut samoosa with some masala tea, a famous combination that has earned World of Samoosas much renown.QB‑5, Oriental Plaza (upper mall), tel. +27 11 833 1139, worldofsamoosas. co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. R. JohannesburgInYourPocket

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HANGING OUT IN ROSEBANK Rosebank’s busy pedestrianised shopping precinct, centred around three interconnected malls The Firs, Rosebank Mall and The Zone@Rosebank, hums with a diverse crowd who come to find the latest fashions and enjoy Rosebank’s many restaurants and café society.

Rosebank’s skyline is steadily being filled with sparkling new office towers and luxurious high-rise apartments joined by chic new nightlife and dining destinations such as Keyes Art Mile. This is very much an art neighbourhood with several leading contemporary art galleries lined up along Jan Smuts Avenue between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues and along a short stretch of 7th Avenue leading into Parktown North. It’s also a nightlife capital with more than half a dozen trendy bars and restaurants clustered around the corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Bolton Road where, on weekend evenings, the party continues late into the night.

Approximately 2km north of Rosebank along Jan Smuts Avenue is the fancy suburb of Hyde Park and the luxurious Hyde Park Corner mall. Head north along Oxford Road and you’ll reach the suburb of Illovo which boasts a great selection of restaurants. East of Rosebank is the Melrose Arch precinct where streetside café culture and highstreet shopping mix in a purpose-built urban precinct.

A STREETBAR NAMED DESIRE  Pair delicious Middle Eastern-inspired tapas with excellent cocktails at this chic tapas and cocktail bar with a buzzing first-floor terrace.QK‑12, 144 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 268 6485, streetbar.co.za. Open Mon–Wed 16:00 until late, Thu–Sat 12:00 until late, Sun 12:00–19:00. Kitchen closes at 22:00 (18:00 on Sun). R ­ RR. FATHER COFFEE  This hipster coffee shop has a roastery on site and a great selection of blends to take home.QK‑12, The Zone@ Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd. Open 07:00–18:00, Sat 09:00– 18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. R. 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LEXI’S HEALTHY EATERY

 ‘Eat More Plants’ is the motto of this popular vegetarian café with a thoroughly eco-conscious ethos. You'll find a second branch at 24 Central in Sandton Central.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, tel. +27 85 623 5823, lexiseatery.com. Open 07:30–21:30, Sat 09:00– 21:30, Sun 09:00–14:30. RR. MARBLE  Star chef David Higgs’s impressive ‘live fire’ rooftop restaurant serves up some of the area's best views and and has a fantastic albeit pricey bar.QK‑12, Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Open 12:00– 16:00 and 18:00–22:00. Bar open 12:00–22:00. RRRR. MIX COCKTAIL BAR  Mix Cocktail Bar stands out from the ever-growing crowd of dedicated mixologist-led cocktail bars in this city, for its outstanding and constantly changing seasonal menu and its inimitable sense of style. Walls hung with the most covetable contemporary South African artworks remind you that this is a cocktail bar located in the heart of Rosebank's art and design centre Keyes Art Mile and those oh-so-memorable sunset views over the treed suburbs spread out west for miles towards the Northcliff ridge. Head mixologist Devin Cross devises a new seasonal cocktail menu every few months which can also be enjoyed with an exclusive five or seven course food pairing.QK‑12, Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 10 594 5545, mixbar.co.za. Open 16:00 until late, Sat 11:00 until late. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

MOMO KURO  Follow an unmarked stairway in Keyes Art Mile atrium and eventually you’ll pop out at this casual eatery with a rooftop terrace, that specialises in bite-sized Asian street food. Unlicenced, so bring your own alcoholic drinks.

QK‑12, Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 10 594 5395. Open 11:00-22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00-21:30, Sun 11:30-15:30. Closed Mon. RRR.

Mix Cocktail Bar

The Zone@Rosebank. Photo by Subodh Agnihotri, Shutterstock

Rosebank

PAUL'S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM  This home-grown ice cream brand is one of Joburg’s favourites. Drop in for ice cream in an enticing range of flavours. Try the famous birthday cake flavour, a hot favourite.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, tel. +27 11 485 0104, paulshomemade.com. Open 09:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–20:00. R. PIZA E VINO  Casual family-friendly pizzeria with a craft beer and wine bar. Also at Melrose Arch.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, tel. +27 11 447 6569, pizaevino.co.za.

Open 11:30–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–22:30 Sun 08:00– 21:30, Mon 11:30–21:30. RR. PUBLIK  A no-fuss straight-up wine bar with a calming, almost Scandinavian sense of minimalist style, Publik specialises in South African boutique wines, plus the option of cheese and charcuterie platters. QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, publik.co.za. Open Mon 16:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RR. ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET  This huge weekly market occupies the Rosebank Mall rooftop and has one of the biggest selections of crafts and gift stalls, antique and second-hand dealers plus a great variety of clothing including vintage fashion.QK‑12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, tel. +27 11 028 7818, rosebanksundaymarket.co.za ROSEBANK MALL  This impressive mall has some 150 stores, plus a gym and arthouse cinema and Joburg's biggest daily African craft market the Rosebank Art & Craft Market.QK‑12, Entrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Craddock Ave, tel. +27 11 788 5530, rosebankmall.co.za. Open from 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00.

THE SPACE AND SPACE MAN  An emporium for unique local boutique labels.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 3640, thespace.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

TASHAS  A delicious and fresh menu, with generously portioned dishes. Excellent breakfasts and salads plus people-watching space on the terrace.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 7972, tashas.co.za. Open 07:00–21:00, Thu–Sat 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–16:00. RRR. JohannesburgInYourPocket

ROSEBANK'S ART GALLERY ROW Start your exploration of Rosebank's art galleries at Keyes Art Mile on the corner of Jellicoe and Keyes Avenues, a 10-minute walk from the Rosebank Gautrain Station and Rosebank Mall. Note that galleries close on Saturday afternoons and on Sundays.

On the corner is the architectural landmark Circa Gallery with its circular structure and metal fins reaching into the sky, and on the opposite side of the street is sister gallery Everard Read. Follow the spiral walkway up to Circa’s main exhibition space and don’t leave without seeing the rooftop terrace with its superb views. Both galleries showcase contemporary paintings and sculpture. Next to Circa is Keyes Art Mile’s Trumpet building, another impressive landmark housing exclusive design stores, galleries and cafés.

At the centre of the building is a vast atrium used for temporary installations where you'll also find contemporary art gallery SMAC Gallery and the innovative digital art gallery TMRW. Two city blocks from Keyes Art Mile at the corner of Bolton Road and Jan Smuts Avenue is the start of Art Gallery Row, with half a dozen art galleries and studios lined up next to each other. One of the most striking buildings is Goodman Gallery, promoting A-list South African and international artists and photographers the likes of world-renowned William Kentridge, and photo men David Goldblatt and Mikhael Subotzky. A few doors up behind a peacock-blue wall is the superb David Krut Bookstore with its fine collection of art books. Next door is fine art gallery Lizamore & Associates and a little further up the street Kim Sacks Gallery, specialising in ceramics, authentic African artefacts and fine beadwork pieces.

Facing Goodman Gallery on the opposite side of Jan Smuts Avenue yet more galleries await. Check out Gallery 2 for fine art and painting and David Krut Projects, Joburg’s best-known print-making gallery and art book publisher.

Nearby, on 7th Avenue, Parktown North, is Gallery Momo and Stevenson for contemporary art.

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Neighbourhoods

Sandton

San Deck at Sandton Sun Hotel

THE COURSE  Beautifully designed restaurant and bar opposite the Gautrain Station with a wide-ranging contemporary menu and top notch cocktails.QM‑9, Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel (street level), cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 10 442 5967, thecourse.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR.

SANDTON'S HIGH LIFE You’ll know Sandton Central, Africa's global business capital, by its profusion of gleaming towers, traffic and more traffic, swanky stores and top hotels. Sandton is also a shopping mecca and the huge interlinked Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square malls form the district’s unofficial centre.

Sandton Central sits at the heart of the wider Joburg city district known as Sandton, a vast swathe which spreads north for 10km all the way to the borders of the flashy Montecasino Casino and Entertainment Centre in Fourways. The closest suburb to Sandton Central is Parkmore, a 20-minute walk or five-minute drive downhill from Nelson Mandela Square, known for its eclectic selection of friendly restaurants on 11th Street. Slightly further afield are the leafy suburbs of Morningside with its upmarket shopping centres and Bryanston, home to Joburg's longest-established market, the Bryanston Market. Rivonia is known for its large Chinese community and the excellent Liliesleaf museum.

BANCHAN  Family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes as well as authentic Korean barbecue.QL‑8, Cnr 10th and Elizabeth Sts, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269, banchan.co.za. Open 11:30–14:00 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 11:30–21:00. Closed Sun. RRR. BISTRO DOLCE VITA  A menu of Italian classics, excellent homemade pasta and for dessert, try their addictive homemade cannoli.QL‑7, The Regent complex, 21 West Rd South, Morningside, tel. +27 11 581 0232, bistrodolcevita.co.za. Open 07:00– 20:30, Fri 07:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:30. RRR. THE BULL RUN  Classy steakhouse with an in-house butchery. The eyecatching Dollar Bar serves a fine selection of wines and cocktails.QM‑8, Protea Hotel Balalaika, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 884 1400, thebullrun.co.za.

Open 11:00–22:30. RRR. 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LUXURY SHOPPING Sandton and Hyde Park have the highest concetrations of luxury labels and international designer fashion that include Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana and Louis Vuitton. Hyde Park Corner mall is the domain of the Porsche Cayenne four wheel drive-owning, groomed and manicured Joburg set. At Sandton City check out the Diamond Walk, a glittering arcade that is home to the African flagship stores of major designer labels such as Prada and Cartier.

South Africa has some fabulous local designer labels that are worthy of a place in any dedicated fashionista's wardrobe. Favourites include Marianne Fassler's Leopard Frock. Her style is bold, eclectic and electric, using vibrant colours and African-inspired motifs. Her high-profile fans include Naomi Campbell.

Featured in Italian Vogue and also mentioned by Beyoncé, Maxhosa by Laduma is a South African knitwear brand with patterns inspired by the traditions of the Xhosa people, making waves globally.

Tucked into an unremarkable building in Industria North, homegrown luxury handbag brand Via La Moda's showroom is one of Joburg’s better-kept secrets. Offering up an enormous array of finely crafted handbags and other leather accessories in a glorious arrangement of vibrant colours, shapes and textures, this is a must-visit. Most refreshing is that Via La Moda revels in producing unique designs that are frequently updated, making many pieces collector’s items.QVia La Moda showroom, 9 Banfield Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 11 477 8008, vialamoda.com. Open 09:00– 17:00, Fri 09:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JASMINE  This fully halal restaurant serves fine dining dishes inspired

by Asian and north African cuisines.QM‑8, The Marc, 129 Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 10 226 9160. Open 11:30–21:30, Fri, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–20:00. RRR. THE MARC  Sandton Central’s newest mall has lots of hip restaurants and cafés, a handy supermarket, pharmacy and the excellent value Food Lover’s Eatery foodhall.QM‑8, Cnr Maude St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, themarc.co.za.

Open 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

MILK BAR  Friendly retro-African themed café-bar with one of Joburg’s biggest beer gardens, and outdoor picnic events.

QK‑8, Sandton Sports Club, 11 Holt St, Parkmore, tel. +27 87 701 2002, milkbar.co.za. Open 07:30–22:30. RR. RIBS AND BURGERS  Juicy burgers and lip-smacking ribs are the order of the day at this excellent value casual eatery.QM‑8, The Marc, cnr Maude St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 10 534 6292, ribsandburgers.com/za. Open 11:00– 22:00, Mon–Wed 11:00–21:00. RR. SANDTON CITY & NELSON MANDELA SQUARE  This mega-mall has hundreds of stores, a cinema, cafés and a busy food court. For a choice of restaurants, head to Nelson Mandela Square piazza.QL‑9, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

A WEALTH OF GOOD TASTE

SAN DECK  Expansive rooftop terrace bar with good local craft beers and spirits, a fire pit, comfy hanging chairs and sundowner DJ sets.QL‑9, Sandton Sun Hotel, cnr Alice Ln and 5th St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5086, sandtonsun.com.

Open 06:00–23:00. RRR.

Overlooking the Johannesburg Stock Exchange in the heart of our city’s economic hub. 2019 will see The Bull Run celebrate its 19th year in the industry.

THIEF RESTAURANT  A classy bistro and wine bar with more than 30 local wines by the glass.QL‑8,110 Victoria Ave, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 1570, thiefrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00 (wine bar open from 16:00). Closed Sun. RRR. URBAN MOYO  A stylish contemporary African restaurant.QM‑8, 24 Central, 6 Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 5523, urbanmoyo.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 15:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. JohannesburgInYourPocket

The Bull Run celebrates no-fuss culinary sophistication with an impeccably curated selection of steaks, wines and cocktails.

It’s a brand steeped in tradition and values, a quintessential grill house where you’re not only made to feel special, you’re made to feel at home.

Trading hours: 11h00 - 22h30 (daily)

www.thebullrun.co.za 20 Maude Street, Sandton, Johannesburg Tel: 011 884 1400

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Neighbourhoods TINY TIKI BAR  This beach-bar themed joint is the destination for kitsch cocktails like the flaming pineapple rum shooter, and all-day breakfast.QCnr 3rd Ave and 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 71 774 5242, antisocialmelville.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RRR.

Rialheim at Rand Steam in Richmond, neighbouring Melville

THE PARKS & LINDEN

JOBURG’S LIFESTYLE NEIGHBOURHOODS The pretty and tree-filled suburban neighbourhoods of Melville, The Parks and Linden offer an antidote to the mall suburbs. Built at a time when neighbourhoods were all about community, rather than secure housing estates, you'll find high streets filled with an eclectic mix of independent stores, restaurants, and cafés.

MELVILLE Melville’s bohemian reputation was forged during the 1980s and 1990s as it attracted the alternative Afrikaner set – academics, writers, artists and poets. Melville was living like a wild child when apartheid was doing its best to strangle the nation into conformity. Today it retains its alternative and eclectic feel, its high street along 7th Street devoid of big-name brands and the sameness that so often accompanies a modern change of fortune, its denizens a mix of hues and proclivities. With its proximity to two universities, Melville is a popular student hangout and also a nightlife capital. Its late-night bars have earned their fair share of notoriety, and with many guest houses it’s a popular tourist stopover. These days the wild child is growing up with a steady growth in upmarket bars and restaurants dominating 7th Street. A few blocks away facing the Melville Koppies is the Bamboo Centre with one of Joburg’s best bookshops. The neighbouring suburbs of Auckland Park, Brixton, Milpark and Richmond also have a large student population and you'll find some of the city’s best boutique shopping at the delightful 44 Stanley, and at Rand Steam, across Barry Herzog Ave.

LOVE BOOKS  Cosy independent bookshop filled with thoughtful and considered reading choices including plenty of South African titles.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

LA PETITE MAISON  An intimate sliver of a restaurant serving superb fine dining cuisine and a choice selection of boutique wines Q1 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 10 593 7986. Open 14:30–17:00, dinner 18:30–21:30. Closed Sun. RRRR.

REMINISCENE  For an eclectic selection of vintage clothing and fabulous accessories.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 83 256 0813, reminiscene.co.za. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon.

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LUCKY BEAN  Popular restaurant and bar with friendly service, excellent South African cuisine and good vegetarian options.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckybeanrestaurant.co.za. Open 11:00 until last guest.

Closed Mon. RRR. RIALHEIM & BOHO CAFÉ & CO  Rialheim specialises in quirky and functional ceramic design items that are uniquely South African. Their beautiful showroom shares space with the pretty Boho Café & Co.QRand Steam, cnr Barry Hertzog and Napier St, Richmond, tel. +27 79 898 3120, rialheim.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:30, Sun 09:00–15:00. R.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Parks are a cluster of pretty tree-filled suburbs that spread out west from Rosebank and include Parkview, Parkhurst, Parktown North and Craighall Park, each with a distinct identity and a cluster of shops and cafés around a main street.

One of the most popular suburbs is Parkhurst. Here the pavements of the suburb’s quaint village-like 4th Avenue are filled with coffee shops, cafés, fashion boutiques, icecream parlours and beautiful interior design stores. This is the perfect place to window shop or sit on a terrace with an afternoon cappuccino and watch the suburb’s welldressed residents and their dogs stroll by. Meanwhile by night the restaurants swell with locals and visitors keen to enjoy a slice of the Parkhurst lifestyle.

A short drive west of Parkhurst lies the pretty suburb of Linden. What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity and crocheted doilies during the apartheid years, today, Linden is being reinvented as a trendy suburb that pays ironic homage to its past. Its distinctive main street, 4th Avenue, is a mix of proudly local, independent stores and cafés, both new and old.

BLANK BAR  Cute pop-up bar that changes monthly to showcase a different spirit, beer or wine label.QCnr 4th Ave and 12th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 566 6877, blankbar.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00; closed Mon, Tue. RR.

PRON – PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF NOODLES  Fun Chinese kitsch decor and a menu of northern Chinese comfort food with flavoursome bowls of handmade noodles.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 1736. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–21:30. Closed Sun. RR. VAN DER LINDE  This elegant restaurant and bar manages to be both sophisticated and down-to-earth with an emphasis on building simple meals around outstanding ingredients.Q50 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 10 594 5443, vdl.restaurant.

Open 07:00–22:00, Sun, Mon 07:00–16:00. RRR. WORKSHOP 55  A cosmopolitan destination for innovative and exciting fare, and fine craft gins at the adjoining luxe Lounge 55 cocktail bar.Q 55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55.co.za. Open 16:00–22:00 (kitchen open from 18:00). Closed Sun, Mon. RRR. 44 STANLEY Set in a converted 1930s industrial complex, 44 Stanley is a charming space with shaded courtyard cafés and plentiful local boutiques including cool gift shop Love Jozi, clothing labels Guillotine and Black Coffee, Storm in a Teacup for ceramics and Mr Vinyl. You'll also find Mungo Design’s luxurious woven linens, handmade Belgian chocolate shop Chocoloza and quaint secondhand bookshop L’Elephant Terrible. Salvation Café and Vovo Telo are lovely places to start the morning while Calexico beer garden has some of the city's best vinyl DJ sets on Thursday and Friday nights.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za.

Open 09:00–16:00; Sun 10:00–15:00.

BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY  Be transported to a Caribbean island in this quirky and kitsch beach bar-themed joint while sipping on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada.Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00–24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. CROFT & COFFEE  Good service, Illy coffee and the best scrambled eggs have made this the early morning hangout for Joburg’s opinionistas, writers and other media types.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, croftandco.co.za.

Open 06:30–17:00, Thu 06:30–20:00, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. RR. KOLONAKI ON 4TH  This super popular Greek restaurant will have you feeling as if you have been transported to a Greek island. Feast on a delicious variety of small plates or try the authentic grilled octopus or chicken souvlakia. Ask for seating on the atmospheric terrace.QCnr 4th and 9th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 10 900 3319, kolonaki.co.za. Open 12:00–22:30.

Closed Mon. Corkage R80. Reservations essential. RRR. JohannesburgInYourPocket

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Basics Kliptown Market. Photo by Ilan Ossendryver, Tour Soweto

Neighbourhoods

SOWETO

fast internet hotdesks dedicated desks private offices meeting rooms lockers good coffee

More like a city, this historic ‘township’ has world-famous historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting lifestyle attractions that can easily fill a day or two of dedicated sightseeing.

In 1976 Soweto's name became synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But its history goes back to the 1930s when black workers, who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886, were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension.

Vilakazi Street is the tourist heart. On sunny weekends soak in Soweto’s unique buzz at a shisa nyama where you can choose your cut from the butchery counter and have it barbecued. The busiest venues have a beer garden, and often a car wash too. Try KwaLichaba off Vilakazi Street or the famous Chaf Pozi at Soweto’s iconic cooling towers (tel. +27 81 797 5756, chafpozi.co.za).

The best way to experience ‘ikasi’ culture is with a local guide. Tour Soweto offers unique photographic experiences (tel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto.com), while TKD Tours specialises in Kliptown visits and community engagement (tel. +27 73 133 5234, tktours.dube13@gmail.com).

CREDO MUTWA VILLAGE A unique representation of African mythology built in the 1970s by traditional healer and sculptor Credo Mutwa.

Climb the Oppenheimer Tower nearby for the view.Q991 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central. Open 06:00–18:00.

HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM Photos, testimonies, video and informative texts provide a fascinating examination of the 1976 Soweto uprising.

Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel +27 11 536 0611.

Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:30. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, or 13 years and above, R10.

NELSON MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Nelson Mandela and his then wife Winnie lived in this humble 'matchbox' house in the 1950s and 1960s.Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Tickets R60 (African Union citizens R40).

34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

KLIPTOWN MUSEUM This small, but remarkable, free museum recalls the 1955 Freedom Charter signing.QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ORLANDO TOWERS Take the 100m bungee off the cooling towers or ride the lift to enjoy the view. A lively beer garden awaits below.

QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open until sunset, Thu from 12:00, Fri-Sun from 10:00.

THESIS CONCEPT STORE Trailblazing Sowetan clothing brand that references street culture in iconic T-shirts, and 'bucket' hats.Q173 Machaba Dr, Mofolo, tel. +27 11 982 1182. Open 10:00–19:00.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a must-do. If you can't ride a bike or prefer something a little less strenuous book a tuk-tuk tour or a walking tour. Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours which take in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and street food, giving you a much broader understanding of Sowetan culture than you'll get on a drive-by visit to Vilakazi Street. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch and join in a traditional African beer tasting. Lebo's also runs a host of other experiences such as storytelling sessions and early morning yoga. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West,tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers.com. Bicycle tours from R550, tuk-tuk tours from R570. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

CELLPHONES & SIM CARDS By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need to take your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to a cellphone shop in order to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data.

CRIME & SAFETY Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot.

Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines that are located inside banks. Be particularly wary of 'phone snatchers' known to grab phones from people using them on the street. If you need to make a call it is best to do this while inside a building.

If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). In the case of an emergency, from a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre that will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

JohannesburgInYourPocket

CO-WORKING SPACES To get work done outside of an office, you can find free Wi-Fi and counter space at many of Joburg’s coffee shops. However, by far the smarter way to work is to spend a few hours hot-desking at a local co-working space. Joburg has many cool co-working offices and member’s clubs where you can rent a desk by the day, week, month or year.

PERCH FLEXIBLE OFFICE SPACE Describing itself 'like gym for people who need to work', Perch has over 40 hot desks, 20 dedicated desks, 22 private offices and five meeting rooms as well as team booths, lounges and breakaway areas for when you need to make a call in privacy. Rent a desk on a daily, weekly or month-to-month basis.Q37 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 900 1260, perchoffices.co.za.

MESH CLUB Africa’s first curated members’ club, at Keyes Art Mile, is a super-stylish and exclusive work and play space for budding and established creative entrepreneurs with offices and dedicated desks, lounges, meeting rooms and an outdoor area. Perks include a cool cocktail bar and reciprocity with other clubs globally.Q21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub.co.za.

For more co-working spaces see our website.

Spring 2019 – Winter 2020

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36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to

The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road, passing on the right. Maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left lane because they make frequent unannounced stops, and in the City Centre avoid the awkwardly-placed bus lanes. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not uncommon even on freeways.

Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address.

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LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain for O.R. Tambo.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

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Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R165. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. After hours you will need to travel by taxi, Uber or book a shuttle bus.

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to Soweto destinations. Single tickets are available at all stops. Or purchase a card at the station.

Buses don’t make every stop so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around 1km or more apart.

Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most run between 05:30 and 18:30. See reavaya.org.za.

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O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern with plenty of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket in the domestic terminal B before you go check in. Here you'll also find the check-in for all South African Airways (SAA) flights.

For other international flights, head to Terminal A. Lock your luggage or have it securely wrapped, and only hand it over to check-in counter staff.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one-and-a half-hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

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MINIBUS TAXIS AND TAXI CABS Taxi cabs (or meter taxis) are not to be confused with South African 'taxis', the city's ubiquitous commuter minibuses.

There are few places from which to hail a cab in the street and some of the unmetered private cabs at ranks have a reputation for overcharging. Confirm a price upfront or book by phone or app.

Once ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point (especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where rival private taxi operators have been known to stir conflict with Uber drivers). Global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network as does rival app Bolt. The city’s largest taxi cab company is Zebra Cabs (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za).

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If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of other people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants 10% of the bill is the minimum recommended, and up to R10 for petrol attendants.

O.R. Tambo International Airport, taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield.

Buy a Gautrain Swift Card at the stations, and top it up for your journey. Each Gautrain station is served by a Gautrain bus network linking commuters to nearby suburbs. There is no weekend bus service. A minimum of R30 loaded on your Swift Card is required to use any Gautrain services. Prices start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

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