Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 15 - September 2018 - January 2019

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

September 2018 - January 2019

Spring in the city

Blooming gardens, secret bars and fun festivals

Bucket list stuff

25 Essential experiences

N°15 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword & Contents Take a gloriously sunny climate, one of the world’s biggest human-made forests and near-perfect spring temperatures, then add in a thriving art scene, hip nightlife, inventive restaurants and an exhilarating downtown in the throws of a spectacular revival. That's the recipe for Johannesburg – one of Africa’s most compelling urban destinations. To get the most out of a city like this you need the help of a knowledgeable insider, which is where we come in. In our spring issue we bring you our guide to Joburg’s parks and gardens, the lowdown on the city’s coolest new underground bars and contemporary dining hotspots, pavement cafes, rooftop hangouts and delicious farm-to-fork restaurants. Plus local luxury shopping, markets, summer festivals, 25 essential sightseeing experiences to add to your Joburg itinerary, and so much more!

Basics 6 Essential information for your stay

Ask a local

10

The insiders take on Joburg

What’s on

12

A round-up of the season’s coolest events

Where to eat

COVER IMAGE Our cover was shot by Jeffrey Rikhotso (@jefflovesphotography) at South Africa's first Afropunk festival held at Constitution Hill in December 2017. A live music festival that started in Brooklyn, USA, Afropunk celebrates black identity and stands for values we wholeheartedly support – no to racism, no to homophobia and no sexism. It's also a showcase of incredible street style. Read more on page 13.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

September 2018 - January 2019

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Spring in the city

Blooming gardens, secret bars and fun festivals

Bucket list stuff

25 Essential experiences

N°15 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Assistant Editor Louise Whitworth Researchers Idara Udom and Melusi Hlatshwayo Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Photography In Your Pocket City Guides or as credited Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196 or Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Enquiries For general enquiries and event listings mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com, or tel. +27 87 808 1099.

Advertising For advertising in our print magazine, on our website and our weekly What's On newsletter, mail laurice.taitz@inyourpocket. com, or tel. +27 82 572 3553.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries by The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Eight food neighbourhoods Farm to fork dining

African restaurants Cafés, coffee and ice-cream Contemporary, fine dining and steak Around the world

22 22 24 27 28 30 32

Garden City

36

Where to park in Joburg

Nightlife Secret bars and hidden gems Pubs and beer gardens Clubs and live music

Essential sightseeing

40 40 43 43

25 essential sightseeing experiences

44 44

Soweto

53

Historic sights and the best tour picks

Shopping Boutique shopping Books and markets Local luxury Conscious gift shopping

56 56 58 59 61

Where to stay Spas and salons

62 63

Maps 64-67 City Centre, Sandton Central, Sandton to Rosebank EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Street art by Nelson Makamo in Maboneng. Photo by SA Tourism

Basics

24-HOUR CITY

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS (SEP-JAN)

Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

When a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

Holidays: September 24 – Heritage Day; December 16 – Reconciliation Day; December 25 – Christmas Day; December 26 – Day of Goodwill; January 1 – New Year's Day.

CELLPHONES & SIM CARDS By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data.

CRIME & SAFETY Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot.

Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines that are located inside banks.

If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). In the case of an emergency, from a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre that will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out up to R10 to petrol attendants.

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road, passing on the right. Maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left lane because they make frequent unannounced stops, and in the City Centre avoid the awkwardly-placed bus lanes. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not uncommon even on freeways. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. See pages 64–67 for maps. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

We have been growing non-stop for the last 18 months, and we think it’s about time for you to come and meet us.

Join us every first Sunday of the month for #FirstSundays.

Get a taste of the Victoria Yards experience with #OpenStudios.

Artisan Studios | Urban Farming | Galleries | Fashion & Design

16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, Johannesburg victoriayards.co.za

Basics O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern with plenty of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket in the domestic terminal B before you go check in. Here you'll also find the check-in for all South African Airways (SAA) flights.

For other international flights, head to Terminal A. Lock your luggage or have it securely wrapped, and only hand it over to check-in counter staff.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one-and-a half-hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R151. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. After hours you will need to travel by taxi, Uber or book a shuttle bus.

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain for O.R. Tambo.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQ Tel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za. See Sightseeing for our recommended Joburg and Soweto tour guides.

First ride free up to R70 Get a reliable ride in minutes with the Uber app. Sign up with the code JHBIYP18 at Uber.com/app.

First time riders only. Terms and conditions apply.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

A minibus taxi. Photo by Mark Straw

AIRPORTS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport, taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. Buy a Gautrain Gold Card at the stations, and top it up for your journey. Each Gautrain station is served by a Gautrain bus network linking commuters to nearby suburbs. There is no weekend bus service.

A minimum of R25 loaded on your Gold Card is required to use any Gautrain services. Prices start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

MINIBUS TAXIS AND TAXI CABS Taxi cabs (or meter taxis) are not to be confused with South African 'taxis', the city's ubiquitous commuter minibuses.

There are few places from which to hail a cab in the street and some of the unmetered private cabs at ranks have a reputation for overcharging. Confirm a price upfront or book by phone or app. Once ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point (especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where rival private taxi operators and Uber drivers have been known to conflict). Global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network as does rival app Taxify. The city’s largest taxi cab company is Zebra Cabs (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za).

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to Soweto destinations. Bring your photo ID to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops, or on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around 1km or more apart. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most run between 05:30 and 18:30. See reavaya.org.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Ask a Local

MY JOBURG

The best way to get to know Joburg is to hang out with an insider. We chatted to four of our favourite city people to get the lowdown on what makes Joburg unique.

HEATHER MASON is an American living in Joburg. Her blog 2summers documents her life and her travels around South Africa and the world. Find her at @2summers or 2summers.net What brought you to Joburg and makes you stay? I moved here eight years ago. I faced a lot of challenges during my first few years here but wound up staying because of my blog. I realized I have talent and passion for telling Jozi stories.

Your favourite suburb? Melville. It’s where I’ve lived since the first day I arrived. I love its tree-lined streets, lively restaurant and bar scene, and the friendliness of the residents and shop-owners.

Don't leave Joburg without seeing? Constitution Hill; Ponte City, Saturday morning in Braamfontein or Sunday morning in Maboneng.

A surprising fact? Joburg is often described as lacking natural beauty but the city has so many nice parks (like Walter Sisulu, Emmarentia Dam, the Wilds and Melville Koppies). Each is uniquely beautiful, often with great views of the skyline.

The most underrated experience? Visiting the Top of Africa on the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre. The windows might be dirty but the 360-degree views provide great perspective on the city.

Favourite restaurant or café? I have far too many to choose just one! In the vicinity of Melville I love Pablo Eggs Go Bar, Breezeblock, Love Me So, the Richmond, Croft & Co, and Bread and Roses.

Favourite bar? I love Mooteebar for cocktails, the Lucky Bean for hanging out on the pavement with a glass of wine, and Urbanologi for delicious tapas and craft beer.

Best place to shop? The Oriental Plaza because I love the colorful fabrics, the food (especially World of Samoosas), the people-watching, and great prices for clothes, curtains, and kitchenware.

Joburg in 3 words? Gritty, friendly, real.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BHEKI DUBE is the founder of Curiocity hostels in Durban and Joburg, Mainstreetwalks and other cool experiences in South Africa. Find him at @bhekidub or see curiocity.africa.

What makes you stay in Joburg? Joburg is closely interlinked to the work that I do. I’ve been able to build up foundations here and my day to day hustle. There is also a deeper connection to the city that keeps me here which has its roots in my youth. This is a city where I am able to navigate, create, conceptualise, implement and build freely and honestly.

Your favourite suburb? I genuinely love Troyeville where I grew up. It’s an area that springs from a well of positivity.

I love its avant-garde feel, its thinkers and thought leaders.

Three things a visitor shouldn't leave without seeing?

It’s unfair to limit it to three, but definitely Maboneng and everything that comes with it. A visit to Brixton to Bra Sifiso’s spot The Roving Bantu if you wanna really be pushed out of your comfort zone, and Soweto. It's an incredible curation of where we have come from and where we’re heading.

The most underrated Joburg experience? Chinatown in Cyrildene as well as the Cantonese quarter in the CBD. Favourite cafe? There’s this really cool cafe in Maboneng called Bertrand, run by two French guys. The reason I dig it is that they literally curated and made everything that is in the space, from the furniture to the fittings. It brings a different vibe to the hood.

Favourite bar? I spend a lot of time at the Hideout at Curiocity obviously. Other really cool bars to check out would be The Troyeville Hotel.

Shopping secrets? Little Addis, the Ethiopian quarter downtown on Jeppe Street – I get really cool shirts there.

Another place I really dig and is very much underrated is the fashion district in Jeppestown where you'll find the old City Outfitters. It's where you go when you want your Umswenko (swag) to be right.

Joburg in 3 words? People, hustle, transforming. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JAMES DELANEY is an artist who features downtown Joburg’s buildings and ghosts prominently in his work. He is also known as 'the guy who fixed up The Wilds', a 40 acre forested park. Find him at @DelaneyArtist or see delaney.co.za.

DUDU LUTHULI is a copywriter and lover of good stories. She describes herself as a curious young woman who seeks beauty wherever she goes. Find her at @dudu_luthuli or see seethecityjhb.wordpress.com.

What brought you to Joburg and makes you stay? My parents moved here when I was a child, but later I studied in the Eastern Cape and Cape Town, lived in England and Germany, and gravitated back. Family, friends, climate and the exhilaration of working in Joburg keep me here.

Your favourite suburb? Lorentzville, where my studio is.

It's a tumbling-down century-old suburb full of interesting people – and layers of history from the waves of immigrants who have made it their home.

Don't leave Joburg without seeing? Downtown’s architecture and graffiti, the Constitutional Court and its art collection, and vibrant Sundays in Maboneng.

A surprising fact? Downtown Joburg is like a museum of architecture – Art Deco, Modernist, Neoclassical, Victorian, Brutalist – with impressive grandeur.

The most underrated experience? Victoria Yards, because there’s something quite magical about the place. It’s a collection of studios for artists and makers.

Favourite cafe? Craft Coffee is hidden below the highway in Newtown in an historic industrial building. It’s more coffee roaster than coffee shop so it’s quiet, and calm, and close to Bag Factory studios where I make my lithographs.

Favourite after-work hangout? Bellinis in Illovo is a classic – a simple menu which has hardly changed in 20 years, and nice people. Get there early as they don’t take bookings. When I have friends from out of town, it’s Urbanologi, for the cool design, craft beer tasting and innovative food.

Best places to shop? Herbert Evans for art materials, Holmes Bros for T-shirts, Bridge Books downtown for gifts.

Favourite place to relax in the city? The Wilds. It’s green, and peaceful, and you feel like you’re far from the city.

Joburg in 3 words? Unexpected, extreme, complex.

What brought you to Joburg and makes you stay? I’m a Jozi native (how lucky?). I lived in Cape Town for a few years but decided to come home to experience the city as a fully-fledged adult and I am loving it.

Don't leave Joburg without? A jazz-filled evening at The Orbit Jazz Club & Bistro is unmissable; Rooftop Salsa in Maboneng (Auret Street) is such fun and a City Sightseeing bus tour offers a simple way to get an overview of the city.

A surprising fact? That it’s possible to call Joburg home.

Because many people here are from everywhere else, the concept of permanence, and growing roots in this city is a strange one.

The most underrated Joburg stop? Moyo Zoo Lake. It has everything I enjoy. Good music, delicious cocktails (and great food specials), beautiful views, and good service.

Favourite restaurant or cafe? I have so many favourites based on my mood, but for now I’ll say The Whippet in Linden. Their “Grown up grilled cheese” sandwich is something I believe every human in the world should try. It’s that good.

Favourite hangout spot? I do enjoy the vibe at The Zone@ Rosebank and Keyes Art Mile. Very cosmopolitan.

Best place to shop? Joburg CBD thrift stalls for affordable yet good quality clothes. I love the fact that you can negotiate prices and score freebies if you treat traders with respect (helps if you’re a regular).

Favourite place to relax in the city? The Orbit is my second home. Nothing helps me unwind more than live music played by some of the country’s finest musicians.

On weekends you’ll find me on a walking tour, putting my salsa moves to the test or enjoying braaied meat at Bafokeng Corner in Phiri, Soweto.

Joburg in 3 words? Beautiful, unpretentious, exhilarating.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2018 – January 2019

11

Afropunk Joburg. Photo by Ryan Purcell

What’s On

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Mondays are generally quieter with many museums, galleries, bars and restaurants closed.

Thursdays to Saturdays are when these are busiest, especially on the first and last weekends of the month.

Neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville and Rosebank offer the widest nightlife choices.

Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are popular afternoon hangouts, and if planning to head to a restaurant on a Saturday night, best make a reservation.

September is Heritage Month, culminating in a public holiday on the 24th, with lots of events celebrating South Africa’s rich cultural diversity. October and November are the height of spring with blissfully sunny days making outdoor festivals a delight. The December period leading up to Christmas is particularly busy as festive markets and parties pop up, with December 16, the Day of Reconciliation public holiday, usually marking the end of Joburg's working year. Over Christmas and New Year, many Joburgers head off to holidays, although the major music festival Afropunk and plenty of New Year’s Eve parties make sticking around worthwhile.

We strive to share the best events taking place in the city during the coming season but space is limited so we can never put all we like in our printed guides. All information is accurate when going to print but changes may occur, so for a complete guide, visit johannesburg.inyourpocket.com to browse our What’s On calendar.

We share happenings in the city daily, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, and check out our weekly newsletter at bit.ly/whatsoninjoburg to stay up to speed.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS & FAIRS Joburg celebrates the start of the warmer months with a host of festivals. Here’s our round-up of some of the best.

06.09, 04.10, 01.11 & 06.12 THURSDAY FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday evening monthly, the neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Rosebank get taken over by art events, live music, pop-up bars and DJ sets. In Rosebank join the street party at Keyes Art Mile (19 Keyes Ave) where the street is closed to traffic, and pop-up bars, food trucks and live music performances create a festive atmosphere. Meanwhile in Braamfontein there’s always something fun happening, from exhibition openings to special gigs and club nights particularly on Juta, De Beer and Reserve Sts (see our feature on page 44 for more on Braamfontein and Rosebank).

07.09 FRIDAY & 02.11 FRIDAY FIRST FRIDAYS AT 44 STANLEY The boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley stays open for a late night shopping party with live music and al fresco dining. There are dozens of stores to browse offering everything from vinyl records to fashion and accessories, books, artworks, handmade Belgian chocolates and one-of-a-kind homeware, gifts and decor items.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, 44stanley.co.za. Admission free.

07.09 FRIDAY – 09.09 SUNDAY SOUTH AFRICAN BOOK FAIR Part of National Book Week, the fair brings together more than 50 African authors. This year’s theme #OurStories, celebrates African diversity and the storytelling tradition with star guests such as Antjie Krog, Mandla Langa and Loyiso Mkhize.

QB-4, Museum Africa, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, southafricanbookfair.co.za. Tickets R40 per session. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 15.09 SATURDAY – 16.09 SUNDAY JOBURG HERITAGE WEEKEND Celebrating Heritage Day (24.09), the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation presents a weekend of heritage-themed tours, talks and walks, with visits to local heritage buildings and gardens as well as tours around some of the city’s less explored neighbourhoods.QSee joburgheritage.co.za 22.09 SATURDAY – 23.09 SUNDAY DSTV DELICIOUS Two days of music performances by major international acts, celebrity chef demonstrations and a gourmet food and wine market. Headliners include American singer-songwriter Erykah Badu, South African chef Reuben Riffel and Australian musician Jordan Rakei.QKyalami Grand Prix Circuit, Kyalami, deliciousfestival.com. Tickets R650–R1200.

F R I N G E D o n ’ t

B l i n k

Daville Baillie Gallery

2 - 29 September 2018 Building 6i Victoria Yards Lorentzville Jhb

27.09 THURSDAY – 29.09 SATURDAY STANDARD BANK JOY OF JAZZ Three days, four stages and 38 performers, this is Joburg's leading jazz festival. Expect a variety of genres and performances by local and global established and upcoming jazz stars. Topping the bill this year is Diane Schuur, David Sanborn and Cassandra Wilson.QSandton Convention Centre, Sandton Central, joyofjazz.co.za. Tickets R795.

07.10 SUNDAY CAN DO IN THE CITY Two major music festivals happening simultaneously. Take your pick of indie, rock and reggae at In The City Rocking the 24.10 WEDNESDAY - 26.10 FRIDAY Gardens at Emmarentia Dam with Sticky Fingers, Wolf Alice RMB WINEX WINE FESTIVAL ad.indd 1 11/8/18 20:24:33 and Tom Grennan or opt for international techno, hip-hop A gathering of more than 100 local and international wine and rap at In The City Ellis Park with acts like Mura Masa and producers for one of the biggest wine events of the year.

Majid Jordan.QTickets, Rocking the Gardens R195, In The QSandton Convention Centre, winex.co.za. Tickets TBA. City Ellis Park R295–R495, inthecityjhb.co.za.

06.12 THURSDAY – 09.12 SUNDAY 13.10 SATURDAY – 14.10 SUNDAY ABANTU BOOK FESTIVAL #DISTRICT GLOBAL STREET FESTIVAL African stories celebrated with spoken word, visual art, music, This new festival takes over downtown Joburg’s historic film and a talks programme.QEyethu Lifestyle Centre, 651 Newtown district, promising three stages and four pop-up Tshabalala St, Mofolo, Soweto, abantubookfestival.co.za. music clubs with an eclectic mix of genres and perform30.12 SUNDAY – 31.12 MONDAY ers from home and abroad plus cinema screenings, theatre AFROPUNK JOBURG performances, art exhibitions and a ‘food and wine theatre’.

QB4/5, Newtown, districtfestival.co. Tickets from R200.

In its second year, the cult Afropunk festival (which also happens in New York, Atlanta, Paris and London) brings 12.10 FRIDAY – 14.10 SUNDAY a world class lineup of the hottest names in black alterSANLAM HANDMADE CONTEMPORARY FAIR native music. This year’s international headliners include An excellent shopping or socialising experience this annual Thundercat, The Internet, Flying Lotus, Kaytranada and food, wine and design fair has lots of gourmet food and the hugely influential 90s hip hop group Public Enemy. boutique wines. Shop for chic handcrafted decor, jewellery Representing local talent are major alt and Afro-futurist and fashion items from 120 local designers and exhibitors. performers Moonchild, Dope St Jude, Nomisupasta and QK-10 Hyde Park Corner, Hyde Park, sanlamhmc.co.za.

Thandiswa. This is a chance to connect and engage with Tickets R130-R150, kids under 12 go in free. a like-minded alternative crowd, and dressing in the most flamboyant African punk outfits you can imagine is part BUYING TICKETS ONLINE of the joy of attending this celebration of Africa’s openminded, and non-conforming communities.QD/1-2, Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, ticketpros.co.za Constitution Hill, Braamfontein, afropunkfest.com/ Webtickets, 0861 225 598 webtickets.co.za johannesburg. Tickets R700, weekend pass R1,200.

Computicket, 0861 915 8000 online.computicket.com facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2018 – January 2019

13

T H E AT R E 06.09 THURSDAY – 23.09 SUNDAY CIRQUE INFERNAL Guinness World Record holder and stuntman Danny Varanne meshes the worlds of circus and theatre with death-defying stunts and some of the world’s top circus performers. QC/D-2, Joburg Theatre, Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com. Tickets R140–R400.

20.09 THURSDAY – 21.10 SUNDAY PETER AND THE WOLF Russian composer and pianist Sergei Prokofiev’s symphonic fairytale takes on a South African spin in this stage adaptation. Mixing puppetry, animation and theatre, this production includes a focus on recycling with a set made entirely from recycled paper.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, montecasino.co.za. Tickets R130–R180.

02.10 TUESDAY – 21.10 SUNDAY ODD MAN OUT A new comedy by one of Australia’s most prolific playwrights David Williamson, Odd Man Out follows Ryan, a quantum physicist, and Alice, a physiotherapist, who meet on a bus and fall in love. Soon after their marriage, they discover that Ryan has Asperger’s Syndrome with hilarious and heart-breaking results.QL-9, Auto & General Theatre On the Square, Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare. co.za. Tickets R150.

03.11 SATURDAY – 23.12 SUNDAY SNOW WHITE PANTOMIME The undisputed queen of South African pantomime Janice Honeyman’s first pantomime Snow White returns to the stage for the first time in 31 years. This run of the classic festive panto features South African household name, actor and comedian Desmond Dube as Dame Dolla Diddledaddledoodledragon and international rugby player and radio personality John Robbie makes his pantomime debut as The Major-DumbOu of the Royal Palace of Cool Cornucopia.QJoburg Theatre, joburgtheatre.com. Tickets R195-R325.

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

05.10 FRIDAY – 14.10 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET’S THE NUTCRACKER Joburg Ballet kicks off its Spring Season with a lively production of Tchaikovsky’s most enchanting ballet The Nutcracker, accompanied by the Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra.QJoburg Theatre, joburgtheatre.com. Tickets R100–R238.

16.10 TUESDAY – 28.10 SUNDAY TSHEPANG: THE 3RD TESTAMENT Hailed by critics at the 2017 Edinburgh festival as “a searing tribute to humanity”, Lara Foot's production is set amid the aftermath of an unspeakably horrific crime in a devastatingly poor corner of South Africa. A story of a community searching for love, hope and healing.QJoburg Theatre, joburgtheatre.com. Tickets R70–R150.

17.10 WEDNESDAY – 02.12 SUNDAY MATILDA THE MUSICAL The story of a gifted little girl who sets out to change her own destiny and defend her friends, the Royal Shakespeare Company’s multi-award-winning musical comes to South Africa for the first time and is a guaranteed hit for audiences of all ages.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino, montecasino.co.za. Tickets R150–R520.

06.11 TUESDAY – 01.12 SATURDAY THE REVLON GIRL An award-winner at the National Arts Festival, The Revlon Girl tells the real-life story of a group of bereaved mothers who, eight months after the death of 116 children during the 1966 Aberfan disaster, meet every week to talk, cry and laugh freely. That is until one night, they secretly arrange for a Revlon representative to give them beauty tips.QAuto & General Theatre On the Square, theatreonthesquare.co.za Tickets R150.

28.11 WEDNESDAY – 6.01.2019 SUNDAY A CHRISTMAS CAROL Pieter Toerien brings some festive cheer to Montecasino with Charles Dickens’ classic yuletide tale. The local production includes an original score and live animation by local actress and animator Naret Loots.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino, montecasino.co.za. Tickets R130–R180. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Cirque Infernal at Joburg Theatre

What’s On

What’s On EXHIBITIONS

Christo Coetzee artwork

Joburg has a lively art scene and art calendar with plenty of galleries, artist studios, art-focused neighbourhoods and an ongoing programme of exhibitions, fairs and events.

ART AUCTIONS South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co hosts two live and three online auctions this season, with some of the finest South African artworks and decorative items going under the hammer. Even if you are not looking to buy, the exhibitions held with these auctions are a brilliant opportunity to view a broad range of impressive, and often landmark, works before they disappear into private collections, and to learn more about South Africa’s rich art heritage. You can view the full catalogue online for each auction. And if you can’t attend the live auctions you can phone in your bids.QTel. +27 11 728 8246, straussart.co.za/straussonline.

10.09–17.09, 17.10–22.10, 19.11–26.11 ONLINE ART AUCTION Strauss & Co’s innovative online auctions are a great way to buy on auction for the first time. There’s plenty of time to browse and read up on the works before putting in your bid, and reserve prices start from as low as R3,000.

15.10 MONDAY SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART (CAPE TOWN) One of South Africa’s most prestigious annual auctions of important South African and international art plus decorative art and jewellery takes place at The Vineyard Hotel in Cape Town on Monday 15.10. The works are on show at the hotel from 12.10–14.10 from 10:00–17:00, and you can attend walkabouts and lectures on 13.10 and 14.10.

12.11 MONDAY SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART (JOBURG) Strauss & Co’s Joburg live auctions have seen recordbreaking bids for works by top South African artists like William Kentridge, Alexis Preller and J.H. Pierneef, and the pre-auction exhibition is an eagerly anticipated event.

Akin to a pop-up art museum you get to view an incredible collection of contemporary and historic artworks (preview 9.11–11.11), and attend talks and lectures by the auction house’s art historians and curators (10.11– 11.11).QL-11, The Wanderers Club, 21 North St, Illovo.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 30.09 SUNDAY SCULPTX FAIR A celebration of the work of emerging and established local sculptors, among them Willie Bester, Pitika Ntuli, Vusi Khumalo and Blessing Ngobeni, with sculptures displayed inside the gallery and on the streets of the Melrose Arch precinct. A series of free art talks runs throughout September.QThe Melrose Gallery, 10 High St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 83 777 6644, themelrosegallery.com. Open 09:00– 17:00. Admission free.

UNTIL 30.09 SUNDAY WOLFGANG TILLMANS: FRAGILE A comprehensive overview of Turner Prize-winning German photographer Wolfgang Tillmans' work, with more than 200 items created between 1986 and 2018 on display, that include large-scale prints, sculptural objects, video installations and music.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, Friendsofjag. org. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

UNTIL 01.10 MONDAY WONDERS OF ROCK ART See an exact reproduction of more than 2,000 figures painted on the walls of the 17,000-year-old Lascaux cave in France. This awe-inspiring international exhibition is complemented by a collection of ancient African rock art from the Wits University collection.QB-4, Sci-Bono Discovery Centre, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, sci-bono.co.za. 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. Admission R48, kids and pensioners R32.

UNTIL 06.10 SATURDAY YINKA SHONIBARE MBE: RUINS DECORATED The Joburg debut of British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare's work. In his latest sculptures Shonibare continues his ongoing debate about the cultural and political issues that shape our identities, exploring the rise and fall of the British empire and its impact on modern African cultures.QK-12, Goodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission free.

02.09 SUNDAY – 29.09 SATURDAY FRINGE – DON'T BLINK South Africa's favourite pop artist Fringe is back with his latest exhibition Don't Blink. Fringe’s signature mixed media works contain happy, yet irreverent, iconography and this latest work is described as 'a mind bending journey through the characters and charades of youth'.QDaville Baillie Gallery, Victoria Yards, 24 Victoria Rd, Lorentzville, tel. +27 61 466 0451, daville.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Mon, Sat 10:00–14:00, Sun, by appointment only. Admission free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sam Nhlengethwa, What about AU?

Estimate R4 000 - R6 000

South African and International Art, Decorative Arts & Jewellery ONLINE-ONLY Auctions 2018 10 - 17 September 17 - 22 October 19 - 26 November Browse > Bid > Buy

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

What’s On

Clementia by Yinka Shonibare, Goodman Gallery

26.09 WEDNESDAY – MID JANUARY, 2018 THE ART OF LITHOGRAPHY A tribute to renowned South African artist David Koloane and LL Editions Lithography Studio in Fordsburg, this exhibition also draws on the museum’s print collection and includes new collaborations with major South African artists.QC-3, Wits Art Museum, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam.

Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

02.09, 07.10, 4.11, 02.12 SUNDAY FIRST SUNDAYS AT VICTORIA YARDS On the first Sunday of every month the sprawling Victoria Yards complex in eastern Joburg hosts its open studios day, presenting an opportunity to meet resident artists and artisans and get a behind-the-scenes view of their creative process. Also look out for exhibition launches at the Daville Baillie art gallery and live music at Impi craft brewery. See page 47 for more on this new makers space.Q24 Victoria Rd, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za. Admission free.

07.09 FRIDAY – 09.09 SUNDAY FNB JOBURG ART FAIR One of Joburg’s art calendar highlights, the fair attracts up to 10,000 people for a major art and social event. Showcasing impressive contemporary art from South Africa, and across the African continent, that includes sculpture, painting, photography, prints and multimedia installations from more than 60 galleries.QL-9, Sandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton Central, fnbjoburgartfair.co.za. Open 07.09 11:00–20:00, 08.09 11:00–19:00, 09.09 11:00–17:00. Tickets R150, weekend pass R250.

15.10 MONDAY – 20.10 SATURDAY CENTRE FOR THE LESS GOOD IDEA – SEASON 4 A non-commercial collaborative space hosted at William Kentridge’s art studio that brings together artists, musicians, poets, dancers, actors and filmmakers and supports experimental and cross-disciplinary arts projects. Season four collaborators include theatre-maker Tony Miyambo, pianist Kyle Shepard, Japanese performance artist Michikazu Matsune and Kentridge himself. Booking is essential.QArts on Main, 245 Main St, Maboneng, lessgoodidea.com.

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

08.09, 13.10, 10.11 SATURDAY ART & DESIGN SATURDAYS AT KEYES ART MILE On the second Saturday morning monthly Rosebank's Keyes Art Mile, Joburg’s stylish art and design hub hosts a morning of artist walkabouts, exhibition launches, music performances, art talks and film screenings. Explore art galleries, meet the artists, browse the chic stores and fashion pop-ups, and enjoy lunch, coffee or cocktails afterwards at one of the cafés or restaurants.QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za. Admission free.

05.10 FRIDAY – 01.12 SATURDAY THE SAFEST PLACE IS THE KNIFE’S EDGE The first exhibition of the work of the late Christo Coetzee in 35 years, this retrospective focuses on how he became a leading exponent of abstract expressionism both in South Africa and abroad. The exhibition looks particularly at his involvement in the 1950s and 1960s in the radical Japanese Gutai movement who rejected traditional art styles and favoured the performative destruction and reinvention of artworks.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, Tel. +27 11 631 4467, standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00– 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

13.10 SATURDAY – 10.11 SATURDAY WILLIAM KENTRIDGE World renowned Joburg-based artist William Kentridge presents his latest exhibition on home turf in the wake of a critically acclaimed large scale performance, The Head & The Load, at the Tate Modern’s iconic Turbine Hall in London. The exhibition includes drawings from his 2017 Salzburg Festival rendition of Wozzeck and drawings and preparatory film from The Head & The Load.QGoodman Gallery. Admission free.

NOVEMBER SUE PAM-GRANT Sue Pam-Grant draws inspiration from the vibrancy and chaos of Joburg. An actor, writer and director, she has transitioned into working in the visual arts, shifting between mediums that include performance, video, assemblage, and sculpture.QDaville Baillie Gallery.

22.11 THURSDAY – 22.12 SATURDAY ERNESTO NETO The Brazilian artist who is famed for his interactive and immersive sculptural environments created using translucent, stretchable fabrics presents his first solo exhibition on the African continent.QGoodman Gallery. Admission free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Robert Hodgins, Predators R500 000 - 700 000

Important South African and International Art, Decorative Arts and Jewellery including a selection of paintings from the Labia Family Trust Auction, Monday 15 October 2018, The Vineyard Hotel, Newlands Preview Walkabout Lectures Enquiries

12-14 October, 10am - 5pm 13-14 October at 11am 13-14 October at 4pm 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

Race Day at Turffontein

FOR KIDS 20.10 SATURDAY – 21.10 SUNDAY PAW PATROL LIVE! The puppies of PAW Patrol, Nickelodeon’s hit animated TV series, make their South African debut in this high-energy musical adventure.QTicketpro Dome, cnr Olievenhout Ave and Northumberland Rd, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, ticketprodome.co.za. Tickets R290–R590.

8.11 THURSDAY – 25.11 SUNDAY THE LITTLE PRINCE This African-inspired adaptation of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's classic fable fuses storytelling, music and circus performances.QB-4, Market Theatre Laboratory, 138 Lilian Ngoyi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 7498, marketlab.co.za.

04.12 TUESDAY – 22.12 SATURDAY THE BOY WHO CRIED NINJA A tongue-in-cheek remake of The Boy Who Cried Wolf, this zany musical is based on South African artist and writer Alex Latimer’s children’s book.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets R150.

ing seats and bar service. Rosebank Mall’s Ster-Kinekor Cinema Nouveau screens the National Theatre Live in HD, with some of the world's most celebrated actors performing at London's National Theatre. In October see Swedish playwright August Strindberg’s Miss Julie and Shakespeare’s King Lear.

RACING AT TURFFONTEIN Built in 1887 (the city was proclaimed in 1886) Turffontein is one of South Africa’s oldest racecourses, and widely considered by experts as one of the country's most difficult tracks. With a steady climb from the 1200m mark to the final post, Turffontein is known for some of the most thrilling finishes in local racing history. For the best views of the city skyline and the track, book tickets for the exclusive City Deck. Race Days run from 11:0019:00.Q14 Turf Club St, Turffontein, itsarush.co.za.

06.10

Joburg Spring Challenge

27.10

Equinity Night Racing & LA Calavera Party (from 15:00–24:00, equinity.co.za, tickets R295).

03.11

Peermont Emperors Palace Charity Mile

CINEMA The Bioscope independent cinema leads the pack for indie, arthouse, African, and foreign-language films in Joburg.

Regular events include Noche Española, Spanish film night on the third Thursday monthly, Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday, ‘Noodle Box’ Kung Fu film nights (slurp noodles while you watch) and Classic Movie screenings on Fridays and Sundays). Adjoining the cinema is Chalkboard Café and bar serving craft beers and pizzas to enjoy during screenings (286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za).

For Hollywood blockbusters there’s Nu Metro (tel. 0861 24 63 62, numetro.co.za) and Ster Kinekor (tel. +27 82 167 89, sterkinekor.com). For luxury viewing opt for Nu Metro’s Scene VIP or the Prestige Cinema at Ster Kinekor with reclin20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

01.12 SATURDAY THE GAUTENG SUMMER CUP One of Turffontein’s biggest signature events, this is Joburg’s oldest and most respected first-grade horse race. Dress in your finest – think top hats and coat tails, attention-grabbing hats or fascinators. There’s plenty of entertainment both on and off the track including live music, fashion shows, a funfair, carnival and a showstopping performance just before the biggest race of the day.Qgautengsummercup.co.za. General admission R75, hospitality tickets R150–R295. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Walter Battiss, Birds and Flowers (detail)

R600 000 - R800 000

Important South African and International Art Auction, Monday 12 November 2018, The Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg Preview Walkabout Lectures Enquiries

9-11 November, 10am - 5pm 10-11 November at 11am 10-11 November at 4pm 011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

Milk Bar Rosebank, Keyes Art Mile

Where to Eat

8 FOOD NEIGHBOURHOODS From student hangouts and street food stops, to haunts for night owls and big spenders, Joburg has plenty of food destination neighbourhoods.

1

BRAAMFONTEIN This is the city’s student heartland as well as a hub for its creative industries, NGOs and tech startups. Braamfontein's streets burst with youthful creative energy, are filled with students, fixie bike hipsters, bearded baristas, rebellious artists and street fashion royalty. Saturday is the high point of Braam's week when the weekly Neighbourgoods Market attracts hundreds of visitors. As Braam's status as Joburg's cool capital grows, so does the quality of its restaurants and cafés, with everything from old school bakeries and family-run Indian takeaways to classy harvest table lunches, café culture on the urban piazza The Grove and a chic art gallery and bistro The Artivist on Reserve Street.

2

LINDEN What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity and crocheted doilies during apartheid years. Today, Linden is being reinvented as a trendy suburb that pays ironic homage to its past. Its distinctive main street, 4th Avenue, is a mix of proudly local, independent stores and cafés, both new and old. Favourites include hip café and coffee shop The Whippet, Caribbean-themed Brian Lara Rum Eatery at the corner of 4th Avenue and 7th Street, Emma Chen’s super authentic northern Chinese noodle bar PRON and the local deli and café Cheese Gourmet at the corner of 3rd Avenue and 7th Street.

3

MABONENG The work of a single property-development company, this inner-city district (also known as City and Suburban) 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

has been converted from industrial warehouses and factories to a happening lifestyle playground. Street art is a big feature here, along with an eclectic selection of restaurants and stores. The pioneer development is Arts on Main, where every Sunday the popular food and fashion market Market on Main takes place. Maboneng’s main drag is Fox Street, along which there are more than a dozen different bars, cafés and restaurants, including Ethiopian café Little Addis, the casual Greek street food spot Soul Souvlaki, French café Bertrand and the Sha'p! Braai barbecue stand.

4

MELVILLE Alternative, eclectic and with not one chain store or franchise restaurant in sight, Melville enjoys a reputation as Joburg’s bohemian neighbourhood. The main hub is centered around 7th Street which is packed with a broad choice of cafés, restaurants and bars, both studenty and upmarket. For the best South African food and great cocktails with a local crowd head to Lucky Bean.

Around the corner at 74 4th Avenue is 27 Boxes, a quirky boutique shopping centre built from shipping containers with some tasty independent fast food options, as well as family-friendly cafés, an excellent bakery and the cool steampunk-chic restaurant The Countess.

5

NEW CHINATOWN CYRILDENE The antidote to Joburg's hipster districts is authentic Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene, Joburg’s new Chinatown. An impressive archway marks the start on Friedland Avenue and a change in tone from the suburb’s 1950s genteel johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat

Delicious South African flavours 16, 7th Street, Melville | +27 11 482 5572 | info@luckyb.co.za

architecture. The languages spoken and building facade signs are unmistakably Asian, as are the arrangement of storefronts that include supermarkets, restaurants, tea shops, fish stalls, massage parlours, hair salons and a karaoke club. The street's authentic grittiness, only seems to add to its charm. Choose from an enormous array of tasty and well-priced Asian food – anything from Szechuan to Thai, Taiwanese and Korean cuisine or delicacies from Shanghai. The adventurous will have fun deciphering Chinese menus that carry no English translation.

6

PARKHURST Coffee shops, cafés, fashion boutiques and interior design stores fill Parkhurst’s quaint village-like 4th Avenue. A perfect place to window shop or enjoy a cappuccino as you watch the suburb’s well-dressed residents and their dogs stroll by. Saturdays and Sundays this place teems with life, and the roar of super cars out to impress. By night the restaurants swell with locals and visitors enjoying a slice of the Parkhurst lifestyle. Spoilt for choice, you'll find fine dining at celebrated restaurant Coobs and casual lunches and bistro dining at pavement cafés Espresso or Vovo Telo. For takeaway pizza try Urban Braza or for a sit-down Italian meal there’s the intimate Bottega or the slick Café Del Sol Tre.

7

ROSEBANK The stretch of Jan Smuts Avenue between Bolton Road and Jellicoe Avenue in Rosebank has fast become one of Joburg’s biggest dining hotspots. At the corner of Jellicoe facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Avenue is the landmark Keyes Art Mile, at the heart of which is the impressive Trumpet building boasting the fabulously swanky rooftop restaurant Marble, slick cocktail bar Mix and facing onto the street the African retro-chic café-bar Milk Bar and Joburg’s best burger joint BGR. Two blocks south at the corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Bolton Road, the Bolton Corner development is another drinking and dining hub with no fewer than seven venues to choose from including pizza joint Coalition, hip Asian-fusion restaurant and bar Saigon Suzy, bistro and bar Bolton Road Collection and cool new tapas bar A Streetbar Named Desire.

8

SANDTON CENTRAL The global business capital of Sandton is known by its gleaming towers and profusion of construction cranes.

Most tourists flock to Nelson Mandela Square for a selfie with the extremely tall sculpture that pays homage to South Africa’s greatest leader and statesman. While prices on the square reflect the higher than average number of tourists there are some good options. Try the Art Decostyled The Big Mouth (for sushi and seafood) and the reliably good Tashas, part of a chic local café chain that also has locations in Dubai. At the corner of West Street and Alice Lane, the impressive new Alice Lane Precinct is setting a new standard for pedestrianised spaces in Sandton. Enjoy Greek food at Nikos or juicy steaks at The Grillhouse.

On the corner of Rivonia Road and Maude Street The Marc opened in August with celebrity chef David Higgs’ Italian restaurant Saint Pazzo a major draw.

September 2018 – January 2019

23

FARM TO FORK DINING Keeping pace with global trends for sustainable, locally sourced and organic ingredients, Joburg has a range of excellent eating experiences to offer.

There are plenty of good reasons to eat local and seasonal – not least among them taste. Then there’s also the planetary debt of a massive carbon footprint in order for you to eat watery strawberries grown in a Spanish greenhouse during winter. It may cost slightly more to support local organic producers but we think it’s worth it.

Foremost among Joburg’s farm-to-fork pioneers is chef James Diack, the owner of four Joburg restaurants; Coobs in Parkhurst, Il Contadino and The National in Parktown North, and La Stalla in Melville. Diack was one of Joburg’s first chefs to wholeheartedly commit to what he describes as 'farm-to-fork, nose to tail, root to leaf, beginning to end dining'. Close to 95% of the ingredients used at Diack’s restaurants come from his Magaliesberg family farm Brightside (about an hour’s drive north of Joburg).

The farm’s produce heavily influences Diack’s cuisine style so, you’ll always find a variation of Brightside’s famous acornfed pork, whether as an elegantly plated roast pork belly at fine dining bistro Coobs, or presented in a more rustic style at Il Contadino and La Stalla, where the emphasis is on French and Italian ‘peasant’ styles of cooking such as wild boar ragu.

Eloise Windebank from casual fine dining bistro Farro in Illovo is another firm believer in the importance of sustainable eating. 'We are concerned with environmental impact, but on a base level, it is also about offering the best possible product we can – and we can only do that by following what the seasons dictate. . . In short, produce is 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

not very good when not in season.“ Farro’s menu changes weekly and mixes local ingredients and flavours with Modern European cooking techniques. Everything from ricotta and bread to smoked salmon and pasta is made by hand on site. Serving unfussy and memorable food in a refreshingly chic and intimate space, the added bonus of excellent boutique wines and cocktails plus Farro’s easy-going ambience seduce you into lingering.

At the luxurious Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa in Sandton an extensive herb and vegetable garden ensures the hotel’s chefs have easy access to a constant supply of the freshest ingredients. Head chef of fine dining restaurant Grei, Candice Philip, bases much of her tasting menus around the garden’s fragrant herbs to bring enticing aromas, flavours and colours to her unusual pairings. Meanwhile at the hotel’s Qunu restaurant, New Zealander chef Jane-Therese Mulry has taken inspiration from the abundant supply of seasonal fruit and vegetables to create an exceptional fine dining vegan-vegetarian menu.

At OneNineOne restaurant in the Hyatt Regency the emphasis on carefully sourced ingredients is seen throughout the menu, particularly in the Farmer’s Market breakfast where the buffet tables are laden with farm-fresh yoghurt, raw unfiltered honey and even home-brewed Kombucha.

Travel 40 minutes north of Sandton into the countryside and you’ll find places so dedicated to farm-to-fork dining that you can actually eat at the farm itself. Stand out johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Saxon Hotel. Photo by Andrea Evans

Freshly Picked

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Leafy Greens also have a stall here called Antonia’s, selling the same class of delicious salads available at their Muldersdrift café, while the counter at Graziella Marani's is a colourful spread of Italian antipasti, cheeses and delicious pastas.

Another smaller organic market to look out for in Joburg is The Pantry Market, a pop-up organic food market held on the third Saturday of the month at Keyes Art Mile (19 Keyes Ave) in Rosebank. Happily for those who are trying to live a life free from single-use plastics, there’s not a plastic straw in sight. The market also showcases an interesting speakers list on related topics.

For a casual deli lunch or takeout visit Andrea Burgener's and Nick Gordon's deli The Leopard in 44 Stanley where the pair source the finest locally produced ingredients underpinned by their focus on sustainability.

The Pantry Market

destinations include Antonia De Luca’s Leafy Greens, a colourful vegetarian café located on her family farm in Muldersdrift. Perfect for a leisurely breakfast or harvest table lunch en route to the Cradle of Humankind.

Nearby, The Culinary Table, next to Lanseria Airport, is a great venue if you appreciate organic, farm-fresh produce but aren’t on a plant-only diet. Originally a kitchen equipment showroom, it is now a café and deli surrounded by extensive vegetable and herb gardens. Everything is made on site and open kitchens mean you can delight in the process of bakers pounding dough, chefs handcrafting pasta and butchers spicing up sausages and biltong.

The Kitchen at L’antico Giardino, also in Lanseria, is a weekend eatery situated in a beautifully restored farmhouse.

Expect hearty breakfasts and laid-back lunches made with fresh produce sourced from the area, and enjoyed under the trees overlooking the gorgeous gardens full of statues and fountains. The menu is centered around local produce and seasonal ingredients and changes every four weeks.

Of all the places in Joburg wholeheartedly dedicated to organic, free range and healthy living, Bryanston Organic & Natural Market is a pioneer, in business for more than 40 years. Open from 09:00–15:00 every Thursday and Saturday you'll find more than 130 stalls selling organic foods and eco-friendly health and wellness products, as well as a superb collection of clothing, arts and crafts made using traditional techniques and sustainably sourced materials.

Head to Meera’s for traditional – preservative- and colourant-free – Indian cuisine or try the cakes at Bettina’s Café.

September 2018 – January 2019

25

Freshly Picked VEGAN & VEGETARIAN

Antonia's at Bryanston Organic Market

BAPS SHAYONA A pure Sattvic vegetarian restaurant, deli and spice shop.

Shayona is the catering arm of the Hindhu Swaminarayan Temple staffed by a group of dedicated volunteers. You'll find the restaurant abuzz with locals from Mayfair’s south Asian community enjoying delicious thalis, Indian street food and the best masala dosa in town.Q74 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 837 2407, Open 09:30–20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30–21:00, Sun 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R.­S

BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKETQ40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za COOBS*QJ-11, 38 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 0710, coobs.co.za. Open 12:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–16:00.

Closed Mon. THE CULINARY TABLEQLanseria Centre, Pelindaba Road (R512), Lanseria, tel. +27 11 701 2200, culinarytable.co.za. Open 08:00–11:30, 12:00–15:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–11:30 and 12:00–14:00.

FARRO*QL-11, Thrupps Illovo Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 71 618 4352, farro.co.za. Open 12:00– 15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. LEAFY GREENSQRocky Ridge Rd, Beyers Naude Dr, Muldersdrift, tel. +27 010 595 4563, leafygreens.co.za.

Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THE LEOPARD+QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany. com. Open 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–17:30.

SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA*QK-9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. Qunu open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–21:30. Sat 18:30–21:30, Sun 11:30–14:30. Grei, from 18:30, closed Mon. THE KITCHEN L’ANTICO GIARDINO*QFarm 534, Nooitgedacht, Pine Valley Rd, Lanseria, +27 63 691 8912, the forum.co.za. Open Sat, Sun 08:00–16:00 only. * Reservations recommended 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FRUITS AND ROOTS A tasty daily buffet feast gently puts those with food intolerances at ease with lots of gluten-free, preservative-free, fresh, healthy food plus an indulgent selection of sweet treats. A health-food emporium, Fruits and Roots also stock a wide range of supplements, nutraceuticals, groceries and household products.QHobart Corner Shopping Centre, cnr Hobart Rd and Grosvenor Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 2928. fruitsandroots.co.za. Open 08:30–17:30, Sat 08:30–15:30, Sun 09:00–12:00. R. TLSB THE GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Not exclusively vegetarian or vegan, but you'll nevertheless be delighted with the interesting choice of small plate options at this excellent Asian restaurant set on a rooftop overlooking the Melville Koppies. Favourites include the vegetable or kimchi gyoza dumplings, lemongrass and coconut noodles, deep fried agedashi tofu and a refreshing green papaya salad. Booking is essential.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open 12:00–22:30, Mon 18:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Kitchen closes one hour earlier. RR-RRR. L­S­W GREENSIDE CAFÉ Here's to raw food, vegetarianism, peace and understanding. A bright and welcoming place serving raw food, fresh juices, wheat-free pizzas, delicious salads and decadent desserts. So tasty non-vegetarians won't be put out.

Q34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, thegreensidecafe.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. RR. TS

PRICE KEY R = Less than R75 RR = R76–R115 RRR = R116–R165 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat

Epicure, Morningside

AFRICA ON A P L AT E

From Cameroonian grilled fish and Soweto-style shisa nyama (barbecue) to Ethiopian injeera with vegetarian stews, there’s plenty of African food to be found in Joburg. There’s a lot of African-influenced food too, whether it’s the local versions of Indian curries or Mozambican-style Portuguese food. South African cuisine is similarly a term that covers cooking styles from typical Afrikaans boerekos to the South African suburban braai (barbecue).

EPICURE BY CHEF COCO NEW This plush 160-seater restaurant with a terrace in upmarket Morningside is home to Belgian-Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz's innovative global African cuisine paired with an extensive wine menu, plenty of Champagne and a fine cigar selection. From Senegalese style tuna loin to North African tajine and Angolan-style confit chicken gizzards, Chef Coco's dishes burst with colour and flavour. The speciality rum cocktails are a must-try.Q3 Lower Rd, Morningside, tel. +27 10 594 5336, epicurerestaurant.co.za. Open 08:00–23:00, Sun 08:30–17:00. RRR–RRRR. U­B­L­W LITTLE ADDIS Heavenly smells waft out of this friendly little Ethiopian restaurant on Maboneng’s bustling Fox Street. The menu is easy to navigate with eight items to choose from. Try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injeera bread giving you the chance to sample a variety of specialties, all made according to the owner's family recipes.QG-5, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 683 8675, littleaddiscafe.wixsite.com/kassalittleaddiscafe. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–19:00. Closed Mon. R. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LUCKY BEAN This reliably chilled bar and restaurant is a Melville institution serving a quintessentially South African menu that includes snoek baked with apricots, springbok pie, ostrich burgers and moreish dessert of maroela malva and Amarula cream. Service is always attentive. The lounge-bar area spills outside and is a super sundowners spot on Melville’s famous 7th Street with a recommended wine list, and plenty of cocktails.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckybeanrestaurant.co.za. Open 11:00 until last guest.

Closed Mon. RRR. LBEW THE ROVING BANTU KITCHEN This fabulous afro-soul food kitchen serves homemade dishes influenced by a variety of African cuisines. A constantly changing menu ensures visitors always experience something new. The space is filled with quirky memorabilia, while in the courtyard is the ‘Brixton beach’.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, rovingbantu.co.za.

Open 18:00–23:30, Sun 13:00–18:00. Closed Mon-Wed. RRR. BE YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB You couldn’t wish for a better guide than Sanza Sandile to the tastes of the pan-African melting pot of Yeoville. On a rooftop overlooking bustling Rockey Street, he serves up a ‘Pan Afrikan Plate’ long table dinner to an intimate and always cosmopolitan crowd, with ingredients sourced from the neighbourhood market and local kitchens. Booking is essential.QG-1, 24 Rockey St, Yeoville, tel. +27 83 447 4235, facebook.com/yeovilledinnerclub. R400 per person.

September 2018 – January 2019

27

Galata Bakery and Coffee, Braamfontein

Where to Eat

CAFÉS & COFFEE ARBOUR CAFÉ & COURTYARD Don’t be deceived by the petite street frontage, this cute French-inspired café occupies an entire courtyard reached via the back. The menu’s French inspiration is found in its perfectly executed omelettes and galettes with a range of fillings.QM‑11, Cnr St Andrews St and Wrenrose Ave, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 788 4111, arbourcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–22:00, Sun 08:00-16:00, Mon, Tue 08:00–17:00. ­T­U­B­E­S­L­6­W

MILK BAR ROSEBANK At this fun contemporary African retro-themed café on Rosebank’s Keyes Art Mile you’ll find a basic menu of tasty local fare that includes bunny chow and prego rolls, plus excellent coffee, and Mozambican beers. Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in Addis Ababa, quirky retro items, colourful fabrics and traditional artworks abound.QK‑12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5128, milkbar.co.za.

Open 06:30–22:00, Sun 06:30–17:00. B­E­S­L­W

EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor at this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery includes the ‘tochas’ cushion (Yiddish for bottom) by popular T-shirt brand Love Jozi. Your table comes with a view of Maboneng’s cool streets. Try the latkes with toppings or excellent shawarma salad or order breakfast any time of day.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. B­S­6­W

PABLO EGGS GO BAR This fantastic art deco-inspired café on Melville’s quirky high street is a shrine to the free-range egg, just about any way you like it: poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a green or red shakshuka (novelly placed atop a Yemeni flatbread, and probably the most popular dish). The café is also licensed so start the day with a Bloody Mary.Q2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348. Open 06:30–16:00, Sun, Mon 06:30–15:00 (kitchen closes 30 minutes earlier). L­6

GALATA BAKERY AND COFFEE This charming Turkish bakery and café named after an ancient Istanbul neighbourhood offers authentic cuisine at student-friendly prices. The food comes in generous portions. Feast on the Turkish Breakfast, Turkish-style scrambled eggs with traditional flatbread.QC‑3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 64 152 0528, galatabakery.co.za.

Open 07:00–20:00. B­S­L­W

THE RICHMOND STUDIO CAFÉ Run by former journalists this friendly neighbourhood café is a popular hangout for the Joburg media crowd. An everexpanding collection of vintage cameras has found new life as light fixtures and fabulous wall displays here. The menu is deliciously simple (for lunch try the signature toasties).

Q14 Menton Rd, Richmond, tel. +27 10 595 1070/+27 63 412 5365. Open 07:30–17:00. R. U­B­L­W

GLENDA'S Glenda Lederle is renowned as a patissier and her stylish French-influenced café attracts a loyal following of high society bosses and belles. Try the smashed avo on toast or decadent Madagascan vanilla flapjacks and don’t leave without a takeaway slice of the salted caramel popcorn cake.QK-10, 285 Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6369, glendas.co. Open 07:00–21:00, Sun, Mon 07:00–15:00. B­­S­L

THE TABLE MELVILLE NEW This harvest table eatery has a bountiful offering of freshly prepared dishes. Fresh is the key word with the menu changing daily to showcase locally sourced ingredients. A great destination for families, the café spills out into the pretty playground and garden area of the fun 27 Boxes complex.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361. Open 08:30–17:30. Closed Mon. T­U­B­S­L­ 6­W

28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat

COFFEE Coffee isn't a drink in Joburg, it's a religion. Cappucino, Americano, cortado, flat white – you name it, we drink it!

BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first roaster of Fair Trade coffee, Bean There sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor is perfect for savouring the flavour and the smell of freshly roasted beans. Bean There also offers home barista courses and their bags of freshly roasted beans make great gifts.QA‑1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 08:3015:00. U­B­S­W CRAFT COFFEE In the heart of Newtown this is a great stop when you are exploring the neighbourhood’s famous graffiti murals.

Hulking roasters and bulging sacks of beans line the walls at this little coffee bar which also functions as a roastery and bean warehouse. Choose from the Marshalltown Buzz Blend (for espresso fans) or the everyday drinking Marshalltown Daily Grind. The roastery also makes espresso blend capsules which will fit neatly into your Nespresso machine at home.QB‑4, 50 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0501, craftcoffee.co.za. Open 07:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. W DOUBLESHOT COFFEE AND TEA ‘Farm, roast, brew’ is the tagline of this popular spot on a col­ourful corner in lively Braamfontein. Doubleshot specialises in ethical brews and sells limited seasonal microlots of cof­fee and tea as well as an excellent craft iced tea.

QC‑3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 83 380 4127, doubleshot.co.za. Open 07:45–16:30. B­W FATHER COFFEE ​ blond-wood and white tile temple to aesthetics and hipA ster font design this coffee shop roasts its own beans on site and you can buy a neatly packaged box of the best to take home. Service is curt (if you do get a smile please let us know) but the excellent coffee more than makes up for it. Also at The Zone@Rosebank.QC‑3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, fathercoffee.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. B­S­6­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ICE CREAM & MILKSHAKES PAUL’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM ROSEBANK Paul Ballen began his ice cream chain by hosting Sunday tastings at his parents’ home in 2014 after receiving an ice cream machine for his 21st birthday. Enjoy ice cream made with integrity (no chemicals or synthetic additives) in an enticing range of flavours – favourites include the famous birthday cake flavour and roasted pistachio and honey ice cream. They even make carbfree ice creams (if you really must) and vegan ice cream leaving no excuse not to visit. Also at 4th Avenue Parkhurst, Hyde Park Corner and Sandton Gautrain station.QK‑12, The Zone @ Rosebank (ground floor passageway), 117 Oxford Road, tel. +27 11 485 0104, paulshomemade.com. Open 09:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–22:00. S­L PLAN B DESSERTERY Nirvana for the die-hard sweet tooth, Plan B Dessertery specialises in street food-style desserts; namely bubble waffles, ice cream tacos and churros. Don’t set out to try all three styles in one sitting (as we did) unless you are trying to set some kind of Olympic sugar record – each item easily feeds two. The ice cream taco is served in a crispy wafer while the bubble waffle consists of several scoops of ice cream encased in a sweet waffle cone topped with popcorn, strawberries, nuts, chocolate sauce and other outrageously sweet treats. After Plan B, we recommend Plan C – walking home.QK‑12, The Zone@Rosebank food court, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 6133, planbdessertery.com.

Open 10:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–23:00. T­U­L­W THE MILKSHAKE BAR The ultimate adults milkshake bar, serving almost 40 different mouth-watering combinations including Rocky Road, Oreo and Ferrero Rocher, as well as alcoholic shakes in giant goblets. Enjoy yours at the bar or on the pool deck.QM‑11, Protea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 218 4000, proteahotels.com/melrose. Milkshake bar and restaurant open 06:30–22:30. The hotel bar stays open until 04:00. ­U­B­S­W

Plan B Dessertery, Rosebank

THE WHIPPET COFFEE COMPANY Those in the know credit this buzzing coffee shop with its hipster aesthetic for putting the suburb of Linden on the cool map. The food is freshly made café-style, simple and tasty, and the coffee and tea selection is top rate. The doors open super early for delicious breakfasts made with care and attention, making this a great place to start the morning if you are an early riser.Q34 7th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, tel. +27 61 512 1373, thewhippet.co.za. Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–16:30, Sat 07:00–16:00. Kitchen closes at 15:00 weekdays, Sat at 14:00. Closed Sun. B­E­S­L­6­W

September 2018 – January 2019

29

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Where to Eat

CLICO RESTAURANT Tucked into Rosebank (one block from the lovely Keyes Art Mile and Rosebank’s humming shopping district) is Clico restaurant at Clico Boutique Hotel. This is an unfussy fine dining destination headed by chef Marnus Scholly, who honed his culinary skills at some of the country's top safari lodges. Scholly’s six-course dinner menu has a superb wine list to match and showcases locally sourced seasonal and organic ingredients. An a la carte menu is also offered.QK‑12, 27 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 252 3300, clicohotel.com. Open 06:30–23:00. Reservations required. RRRR. Six-course meal R600, with wine pairing R751. B­ILW THE COURSE AT SLOW IN THE CITY NEW An elegant restaurant and cafe diagonally opposite the Sandton Gautrain Station. Marble tabletops, velvet couches and leather-seated chairs in vivid colours, The Course is beautifully designed with a range of spaces from small cosy and romantic window tables to a long table for family sharing and a plush lounge area at the bar. The menu is innovative and wide-ranging, and dishes are beautifully plated.

At the bar you will find an excellent selection of premium whiskies.QM‑9, Level R1, Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel, Cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 87 057 7482, slow.co.za. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat 08:30– 21:00. Closed Sun. RRRR. Corkage R60. U­BLW 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT Chef Chantel Dartnall is South Africa’s princess of posh nosh. The a la carte and tasting menus at her restaurant (set inside a garish pastiche of a North African castle west of Pretoria, about an hour’s drive from Joburg) are pricey but worth every penny. Influences are eclectic and styles vary but Dartnall’s food is superb, always delicate yet layered with robust flavours and exceptional to look at.QFrancolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 371 2902/+27 12 371 2903, restaurantmosaic.com. Open for lunch 12:30–15:00 (Wed-Sun), dinner 19:00–21:00 (Wed, Fri, Sat, group bookings Thu). Tasting menus from R625–R1185, plus optional wine pairing. U­B­L­W ONENINEONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and splashes of colour recalling Joburg's spring jacaranda blooms The Hyatt Regency’s restaurant offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The three-course dinner menu is seasonal with local ingredients and influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to the Lobby Lounge or the courtyard for a nightcap.QK/L‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1188, bit.ly/2n9bu6s. Breakfast 06:30–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch and dinner on Mon-Sat 12:00–22:00. RRRR. T­B­L­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Course at Slow in the City

In recent years inventive chefs and the availability of excellent local produce have placed South Africa's fine dining scene on the world map. What’s more, international visitors get great value on those extravagant gourmet tasting menus at the city’s top restaurants. Here's our pick of the best. Booking is essential.

Where to Eat

URBANOLOGI Utterly urban, this restaurant is located in the fabulous industrial space of Mad Giant brewery in the heritage rich Fox Precinct and serves up wondrous small dishes, all exquisitely plated. The menu is of course designed to complement Mad Giant’s celebrated range of craft beers and there’s also a well considered wine list.QC‑5, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00 (kitchen closes 16:00). RR-RRRR. Corkage R60. U­BE­L­W VIEW Commanding one of the best vistas of Joburg, Four Seasons Johannesburg The Westcliff’s fine dining restaurant View is a moodily lit intimate space offering a six-course seasonal tasting menu or the eight-course degustation menu, with local or international wine pairings. Service is impressive and Chef Daniel Payne, having worked under the hotel’s former Michelin-starred chef and a chef from Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (among the world’s 50 top-rated restaurants) offers a fresh take. Expect an exciting combination of tastes with dishes that will tantalize all senses. Kick off the night with a signature cocktail. We recommend The View – Above the clouds, a combination of whisky, Caperitif, grapefruit and Kombucha. Booking essential.QFour Seasons The Westcliff , 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons.com/Johannesburg. Open 18:00–21:30. Closed Sun, Mon. Tasting menu from R850, degustation menu from R990. B­L­W WORKSHOP 55 A cosmopolitan destination serving up exceptionally tasty small plate options that are presented with flair. This is innovative and exciting fare with flavours from a range of cuisines and the menu changing to reflect the seasonal availability of produce. While Workshop 55’s aesthetic is pared-down industrial chic, the adjoining gin bar Lounge 55 is inspired by the glamorous cocktail lounges of 1920s Miami. You are almost obliged to try a gin cocktail or two with your meal as there’s a great selection of fresh infusions.QJ/K‑12, 55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55. co.za. Open 16:00-22:00 (food is served from 18:00).

Closed Sun, Mon. RRRR. U­BLW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

MEAT THE GRILLHOUSE This New York-style grillhouse is an institution. Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines, reservations for this celebrated spot are essential. Enquire when booking about their hotel shuttle service. Their Sandton location at Alice Lane Precinct has a stunning view of the northern suburbs and a lively bar.QK‑12, The Firs, Cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRRR. L THE LOCAL GRILL This place is a shrine to red meat. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose your lazy dry or wet aged meat, ribs, or ground beef burgers. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef cows. Seared salmon is also a menu favourite and vegetarians are made to feel welcome. The Local Grill showcases local wines with an excellent broad-ranging menu. QJ‑12, Cnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:00-15:00, dinner 18:00-22:00, Sun lunch only. RRR. T­B­L WOMBLES ‘Welcome home’ is how you’ll be greeted at this Joburg institution, with a history dating back to 1984.

From the moment you step through the courtyard gate you are part of a refined and genteel atmosphere, the décor transport­ing you to a grand safari lodge, filled with antiques, Persian rugs, fireplaces and comfortable couches. Wombles makes eating an occasion by getting the basics right – excellent food, service and ambience.

You’ll feel equally at home enjoying a romantic dinner or entertaining clients.QHobart Grove Shopping Centre, 88 Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 880 2470/​+27 11 463 8558, wombles.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00– 14:30, dinner 18:00–21:30, Sat dinner only. Closed Sun. Last orders for starters and mains 21:30 (last drinks/desserts orders 23:30). RRRR. U­B­L­W

Wombles, Bryanston

SAINT PAZZO ITALIANO NEW A sister restaurant to chef David Higgs’ Marble known for its live fire grill, Saint as it is now known, is the Italianinspired member of the family (the ‘mad Italian’) and must rate as one of the world’s most impressive-looking pizza restaurants. Of course there is plenty more on offer including sublime seafood dishes (the oysters are a must), grilled meats and delicious bruschetta. The décor is standout with a super sexy bar area and place for the DJ plus incredible projections of classical Italian frescoes adding a mood to your eating experience. Definitely the place to see and be seen this summer. Booking essential.QM-8, The MARC Building, cnr Maude St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel + 27 10 594 5888, saint.restaurant. Open 11:00–23:00. RRRR. U­BL­W

September 2018 – January 2019

31

Razor Charlie Latin Eatery, Kramerville

Where to eat

AROUND THE WORLD THE AMERICAS BAHA TACO This colourful casual Mexican taqueria is a cutlery-free zone with a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawns, halloumi or pulled pork. Everything is freshly prepared, full of spicy goodness.

Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark chocolate sauce and pop into the adjoining cantina for margaritas, craft beers and local craft tequilas.Q38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 76 694 7400/+27 71 345 6625. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. S BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so they decided to open a burger joint. BGR serves burgers three ways: the cheeseburger, hamburger or the lettuce-wrapped “Cardio” version. For the very hungry, order the double patty. Ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns and basic toppings is the simple formula that make BGR’s burgers such a hit. Service is fast and friendly and for under R100 you can add crispy French fries and a drink.QK‑12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545/+27 84 838 5959, eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30. R. B­S BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY Be transported to a Caribbean island in this quirky and kitsch beach bar-themed joint while sipping on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada served inside an actual pineapple. R​ um doesn’t feature on the delicious but brief ‘eatery’ menu, which is all about West Indian favourites like jerk chicken, fish cakes, crab curry and ribs, but it certainly does on the equally slim cocktail list. More a restaurant than a bar (although you are welcome just to drop by for drinks), reservations are recommended.Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00–24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. B 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Razor Charlie

You don't have to leave Joburg to eat your way around the globe. While pizza and pasta is always a reliable travelling choice, Joburg abounds with options, from Mexican dishes to authentic Argentine steaks.

CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Leather saddles and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life adorn the walls of the atmospheric old warehouse in which Che is located. The place is moodily lit by the glow from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentine-style steaks are cooked. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert.

QG‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon. RRR. B­I­E­L RAZOR CHARLIE LATIN EATERY NEW A flamboyantly charming eatery in Kramerville’s design and decor district (2km north-east of Sandton Central). While the cocktail hour is deeply respected here, we are great fans of Razor Charlie’s Mexican-inspired menu of breakfast dishes which includes their breakfast burrito and huevos a la mexicana (scrambled eggs, tomato and chilli) and for lunch, chimichurri rump steak, quesadillas or tacos.Q6 Desmond Rd, Kramerville, tel. +27 66 476 4985. Open 08:00–22:00, Mon, Tue 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–15:00.

RR. Corkage R50.U­BI­L­6­W

ASIA BANCHAN An unassuming family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes. The tofu, kimchi, sauces and marinades are all homemade, and the wine list consists only of traditional drinks like rice wines, soju and gamju. Bring a group and tuck into a traditional Korean barbecue or drop by for a lunch of thick noodle soup or spicy bibimbap (mixed rice bowl).QL‑8, Cnr 10th and Elizabeth Sts, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269. Open 11:30–14:40 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 11:30–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. L johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat CHEZ FONG This Wednesday night weekly bookings-only pop-up restaurant on the covered patio of an Upper Houghton mansion is overseen by the vivacious Su-Yen Thornhill of Scottish-Chinese extraction. Expect a fun night out with a multi-course (between eight and 10) Asian-influenced tasting menu. The menu changes weekly and everything you will eat is homemade including the excellent hoisin sauce that you will want to pour over every morsel. Thornhill’s dishes are beautifully plated and each dish is to be relished.QTel. +27 74 361 9079, facebook.com/Chezfong.

R500 per person.

COALITION Expect to be touching elbows and ears with neighbouring diners at this tiny pizza bar. The dining area seats about 25 people, who usually crowd around tables or at the counter overlooking the street. Coalition’s accomplished wood-fired pizzas, topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella, are made according to authentic Neapolitan methods and there are nine variations on the menu.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 900 4987, www.coalitionpizza. co.za. Open 12:00–20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. Corkage R50. B­S­L­W

PRON – PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF NOODLES No deep-fried dishes, no rice and definitely no sweet and sour sauces. Owner and chef Emma Chen’s northern Chinese comfort food centres on subtly flavoured bowls of thick, flat handmade noodles given a magnificent lift with an abundance of spring onion, coriander, garlic, chilli and Chinese peppercorns. The decor is fun, tongue-in-cheek Chinese kitsch and the atmosphere down-to-earth.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 1736. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–21:30. Closed Sun. RR.

DA GRAZIELLA PIZZERIA On Sunday afternoons this place is packed with Italian fam­ ilies at tables piled high with mouthwatering dishes. Run by a Sicilian brother and sister team, the service is welcoming. Start with a platter of roasted vegetables and move on to pasta or pizza, and excellent veal dishes with hearty sides. Approximately 40 minutes drive east from central Sandton, on the way to O.R. Tambo airport.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, dagraziella.co.za.

Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30.

Closed Mon. RR. L

R JANAS This family-run Indian takeaway sells the full range of local Durban-style takeaway lunch favourites such as samoosas (R5 each), breyanis, roti rolls and, of course, the classic South African bunny chow. Great for a small budget R Janas is popular with the local student crowd. Portions are generous and you can easily get lunch and a drink for under R50.QC‑2/3, 87 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 9618, rjanas.co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–14:00. Closed Sun.R. S

PAREA A lively taverna serving tasty Greek fare. The wide-ranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, delicious roasted fishes, kleftiko and souvlakia. From 20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the place hots up with belly dancers and smashing crockery. Tell them it’s your birthday and you'll be treated to sparklers and a happy song. For a quiet meal get there early.QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8785, parea.co.za. Open 11:00 until late, Open 12:00–22:00. RR. B­S

YAMATO The much-awarded Yamato serves elegant and traditional Japanese food. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt and the gyoza dumplings and light tempura dishes – best eaten with a touch of chilli oil and soya sauce – are a definite highlight. Solemn atmosphere but what a combination of flavours!QL‑11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511/+27 11 268 0512, yamato.co.za.

Open for lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:00–22:00. RRR. S­L

BELLINIS This unfussy little bistro is a socialites hub with the crowded tables groaning under the weight of open wine bottles, designer handbags and lively conversations. The food is simple but accomplished bistro fare – the fillet salad is delicious – and the excitable atmosphere akin to a wine bar. Bookings for lunch only.QL‑11, 18 Chaplin Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 880 9168/9, bellinis.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00, Fri and Sat 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Banchan, Parkmore

EUROPEAN

September 2018 – January 2019

33

Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff

Garden City

GARDEN CITY While the gold rush defined the city’s early years, the dust kicked up by mining spurred the desire for greenery. Today Joburg is one of the world’s largest human-made forests.

Joburg’s first park, Joubert Park in the City Centre, was established in 1887, just one year after the discovery of gold.

By the 1930s there were already more than 60 parks in the city and today according to Johannesburg City Parks there are more than 2,000 parks and an estimated 10 million trees.

In the city’s first decades the planting of trees was often motivated by the need for wooden props to line mining tunnels. Fast growing blue gum plantations were established to ensure a steady supply. In Turffontein in the south a vast tree nursery was established and during the early decades of the 20th Century the city went on a massive tree planting spree, lining new suburbs with beautiful jacaranda trees. Meanwhile in Joburg’s northern suburbs such as Westcliff, Parkview, Emmarentia and Parktown, farmland was sold off to wealthy mining magnates (known as Randlords) who planted grand plane trees, pines and jacarandas in the vast gardens surrounding their mansions. The result is a magnificent sea of green that spreads out from the city’s central ridges in all directions.

Sit on a suburban rooftop or climb atop one of the city’s ridges such as Westcliff or Observatory and you’ll see nothing but green, peppered with bursts of purple during the spring jacaranda season. Whether you favour long walks, carefully manicured formal gardens or wild green spaces, Joburg has a park for you.

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BOTANICAL GARDENS & EMMARENTIA DAM This sprawling oasis, once part of a large farm owned by the Geldenhuys family, has extensive parkland for kicking around a soccer ball, picnics or long walks. There are also pretty formal gardens favoured for weekend weddings.

Particularly beautiful in spring, the terraced rose gardens boast over 4,500 rose bushes as well as a fountain and water features. Other formal gardens include herb gardens and an Arboretum with indigenous and exotic trees. Rolling parklands stretch south for acres framed by the rocky Melville Koppies in the distance.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia. Entrance is free.

MELVILLE KOPPIES This nature reserve and heritage site boasts archaeological remains of Stone and Iron Age settlements, and great views over the city. The geology here dates back three billion years and the area represents the last conserved remnants of Joburg's ridges as they were before gold's discovery in 1886. The vegetation is entirely indigenous and provides an excellent example, close to the city centre, of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and shrubs. The best way to visit is on a weekend guided walking tour.

Tours cost R60, R40 for kids.QJudith Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 482 4797, mk.org.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

NIROX SCULPTURE PARK This exceptional park is set in 15 magnificent hectares that form part of an extensive nature reserve in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. It is run by the Nirox Foundation who offer an international artists residency programme and organise an annual sculpture fair that is held in the park. This peaceful and immaculate presented park is open to the public every weekend unless there is a private event planned. We advise you book your tickets to visit in advance online.Q24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, +27 82 854 6963, Niroxarts.com. Admission R50.

WALTER SISULU NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS

Situated just 30 minutes from the city, this 300-hectare park offers a taste of the countryside within easy reach.

At the centre is the impressive Witpoortjie Waterfall. Bring comfy shoes and a bottle of water and tackle the relatively easy 3.5km nature trail that loops around the top of the falls. Excellent for bird-watching with over 200 bird species in residence including a pair of black Verreaux eagles. October and November is a particularly good time to visit as indigenous wild flowers and trees bloom then. The park’s sprawling manicured lawns are a popular place for family picnics and there’s also a small café serving light lunches.

QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, sanbi. org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Open 08:00–17:00. Admission R50, students, pensioners R30, kids under 6 free.

ZOO LAKE One of Joburg’s most popular family destinations, Zoo Lake is a large park with an island in the lake where water fowl such as ducks and geese have made their home. Rent a boat from the Lions Boating Club for rowing. Kids will enjoy feeding the ducks, or the playground equipment. On a hot day, a dip in the park’s beautifully maintained pool (see page 45) is a must and you can enjoy a family-friendly lunch on the Moyo restaurant deck overlooking the lake.

QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood. Entrance is free. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

JOBURG’S JACARANDAS Each Spring, usually from early October to early November, a sea of purple petals blooms above suburban streets, creating a glorious floral spectacle akin to Japan’s famous pink cherry blossom spring. Most of Joburg’s jacaranda trees are concentrated within the older suburbs in north and eastern Joburg.

DUNKELD Kent and Hume Roads run perpendicular to Oxford Road and Jan Smuts Avenue (east to west, and vice versa), making these a good place to capture the blooms at sunset or sunrise.

MELROSE Almost every street is lined with jacaranda trees. From the James and Ethel Gray Park (entrance at Edgewood Ave) there are great views of the Observatory Ridge.

PARKWOOD & SAXONWOLD Take a drive (or a walk) along Bath Avenue and make a left (or a right) on Bristol, Wantage, Griswold or Rutland Roads.

ROSEBANK Stroll along Tyrwhitt Avenue on either side of Oxford Road.

KILLARNEY Follow Riviera Road up from the M1 towards the Ditsong Museum of Military History for a magical jacaranda-fringed view of the War Memorial.

GREENSIDE & PARKVIEW These quiet suburbs have plenty of tree-lined streets like Clovelly Street (parallel to Barry Herzog Avenue) and Galway Road.

HOUGHTON Munro Drive winds across Observatory ridge in Houghton and is a scenic, historic street lined with mature trees and epic views. The open-top City Sightseeing bus makes a stop here to take in the view.

KENSINGTON Drive through a spectacular purple tunnel along Highland Road and Juno Street.

THE WESTCLIFF STEPS Dubbed the “stairway to heaven”, the 210-step staircase can be accessed via Crescent Drive or the intersection of Wicklow Avenue and Westcliff Drive (pedestrian entrance).

Jacarandas. Photo by Clare Appleyard

THE WILDS An historic 16-hectare park with stone-cut paths, boasting an indigenous yellowwood forest and a plethora of indigenous flora like strelitzia (known as the Bird of Paradise flower), The Wilds has recently undergone a spectacular reimagining thanks to artist James Delaney.

Formerly in decline, the shift started with the installation of Delaney's artworks last year – 67 steel laser-cut owls placed in the yellowwood grove to mark Mandela Day. This year a host of larger works that include a life-sized kudu were installed. The artworks have been a catalyst for rallying the powerful and the not-so-powerful to restore this once neglected park to a place of pride and for many Joburgers the revitalised space is an oasis of calm on the border of the inner-city. Set across a rocky hill you get to climb the stone pathways winding through the park. Follow them to the top for spectacular views. Stick to the western section of the park, as the east Wilds is still largely overgrown and little visited.QHoughton Drive, Houghton. Entrance is free.

September 2018 – January 2019

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Garden City GARDENS & PICNICS Many of Joburg’s most beautiful private gardens open their gates to the public for open days during spring, making for a wonderful opportunity to see magnificent gardens that are not usually open to the public.

15.09 SATURDAY – 16.09 SUNDAY OPEN GARDENS MEANDER Five private gardens open to the public this weekend as part of an annual fundraising event for Johannesburg Child Welfare. This year’s gardens are in and around the suburbs of Bryanston and Morningside and include showstopping kitchen gardens and water features. Tickets must be booked in advance via webtickets. Once you have received your tickets you’ll also be sent a map with details of the participating gardens.Qjohannesburggardenclub.co.za. Tickets R250.

30.09, 28.10, 25.11 SUNDAY LAZY DAYS & LAWN BLANKETS You don’t need to be staying at the luxurious Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa to enjoy their beautiful gardens as the hotel hosts its annual 5-star picnics series throughout spring and summer. The decadent event includes a gourmet picnic hamper designed by Executive Chef Jandri Niemand, a welcome drink and live entertainment on the lawns throughout the afternoon. The Lazy Days and Lawn Blankets picnic takes place on the last Sunday of the month from 12:30–16:30.QFairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 808 7300, fairlawns.co.za, reservations3@fairlawns.co.za. Costs R450 per person.

25.10 THURSDAY – 28.10 SUNDAY GLENSHIEL CHRISTMAS FAIR Heritage property Glenshiel opens its doors for the Glenshiel Christmas Fair, a fundraiser for the Order of St John.

Admire the panelled rooms of this beautiful historic mansion and walk the wonderful gardens that overlook Joburg’s oldest suburbs while enjoying boutique wines and tasty food from the Food Marquee.QGlenshiel, 19 Woolston Rd, Westcliff, facebook.com/GlenshielChristmas-Fair. Admission R50, kids under 12 free.

03.11 SATURDAY – 04.11 SUNDAY FERNDALE AND FAIRLAND GARDENS The last weekend of the Gardens of the Golden City season sees two small private gardens open in west Joburg. The Barnards started developing their Ferndale garden at 166 Oak Ave in 2007 by planting more than 100 indigenous trees which include a ‘lane’ of mature tree aloes, as well as extensive flower beds with both exotic and indigenous foliage. Dalene Loubser’s garden at 206 Wilson Street, Fairland, includes a large formal rose garden, elegant stinkwood trees and a small tea garden serving refreshments.

QAdmission to each garden R30, kids under 12 free.

Open Gardens Meander, Bryanston. Photo by Connall Oosterbroek

06.10 SATURDAY A BLOOMING AFFAIR ROEDEAN SCHOOL The impressive gardens of one of the city's oldest and most prestigious schools open for the day with guided tours of the gardens, a gourmet food and craft market and ‘champagne garden’.QRoedean School for Girls, Princess of Wales Terrace, Parktown, abloomingaffair.co.za.

Open 09:00-16:00. Admission R50, kids under 12 free.

11.10 THURSDAY – 14.10 SUNDAY BEECHWOOD GARDEN MARKET Owned by Christopher and Susan Greig, the impressive Beechwood Gardens were originally laid out in 1945 by famed landscape architect Joane Pim and redesigned by the Greigs. They include a delightful sunken walled kitchen garden, a rose-covered colonnade, formal rose gardens, and graceful lawns that look out over willow tree fringed water gardens. The immense Water Oak in the garden is said to be one of the largest trees in Johannesburg. An artisanal market is open for the duration while Susan Greig, an extraordinary cook, serves up an alfresco luncheon with plenty of Champagne on Saturday and Sunday, for which booking is essential (email belinda@charlesgreig.co.za).

Q25 Christopherson Rd, Hyde Park, gardensofthegoldencity.co.za. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission R50, kids under 12 free.

38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

EB Social Kitchen and Bar, Hyde Park

SUNDOWNER DESTINATIONS Order an ice cold drink, find a table with a view and enjoy one of Joburg’s famously memorable sunsets with a view of the trees at one of these restaurants and bars.

EB SOCIAL KITCHEN AND BAR You couldn't ask for a more novel setting than this restaurant and bar set in one of the city's best bookshops. The books flow into a semi-industrial space filled with mismatched furniture pieces and endowed with a grand view of the urban forest of the northern suburbs. The bar here is often scattered with books across it for your reading pleasure. The classy contemporary menu is always evolving to match the season and there’s an excellent wine list and a selection of literary-inspired cocktails from which to choose.QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Open 07:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–15:00. RRR. ­U­L­ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF One of Joburg’s most luxurious hotels, Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is set across Westcliff ridge and boasts some of the best Joburg views. At fine dining restaurant View the interior is all contemporary restraint with a smart casual dress code whereas Pre View is a more 'casual' cocktail and tapas-style small plates affair perfect for after-work drinks.

Or opt for a drink on the busy Flames terrace. Bookings recommended for Flames, and essential for View. Pre View encourages walk-ins.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6180, fourseasons.com/johannesburg. RRRR. ­B­E­L­ MARBLE At star chef David Higgs’s rooftop restaurant impressive artworks, a turquoise ceramic-tiled wall and light wooden floors give the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky. The lounge bar and terrace (separated by a gorgeous glass wine cellar) with views stretching towards the Magaliesberg is a perfect sundowners spot while the heart of the restaurant is the live-fire grill in an open kitchen, the spectacular flames cooking up everything from meats and facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

seafood to freshly baked bread.QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, cnr Keyes and Jellicoe Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Open for lunch 12:00–16:00, dinner 18:00–22:00. Bar open 12:00–22:00. RRRR. ­U­B­L­ MOYO ZOO LAKE Definitely in one of the city’s most favourable locations, Moyo Zoo Lake is an institution. With indoor and outdoor seating on the lavishly decorated deck overlooking Zoo Lake this place is perfect for admiring a Joburg sunset. The atmosphere is family-friendly, there's entertainment for kids, face-painting and a well-stocked gift shop, while other nice touches include the option of a neck and back massage at your table. The menu is a pan-African mix of tagines, curries and stews, and grilled meats and fish.QZoo Lake, 1 Prince of Wales Dr, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 0058, moyo.com.

Open 08:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–23:00. ­T­U­B­E­L­ PARKVIEW GOLF CLUB Joburg is a golfers' paradise with more golf courses in one city than almost anywhere else in the world. Within a 10km radius of Sandton Central alone there are 15 courses.

The best hole of course is always the 19th and at many clubs access to the clubhouse bar is open to the public. For drinks on the terrace with the perfect view of the verdant greens we recommend Parkview Golf Club.QCnr Wicklow and Emmarentia Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 5400, parkviewgolf.co.za. Open 06:00–22:00. Closed Mon. L­­ A STREET BAR NAMED DESIRE NEW The newest edition to Rosebank’s buzzing Park Corner (where there are now seven bars and restaurants to choose from), what makes this tapas bar stand out from the crowd is its huge terrace on the first floor. Facing directly west it’s perfectly situated to catch the sunset hour. There’s an extensive cocktail selection (try the vodka-based Them Apples with cardamom syrup and cloudy apple juice) and delicious Middle Eastern-inspired tapas. Arrive early to nab one of the chaise longues or a counter stool overlooking the street.QK-12, 144 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 268 6485, streetbar.co.za. Open Mon–Wed 16:00 until late. Thu–Sat 12:00 until late. Sun 12:00–19:00. B September 2018 – January 2019

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Blank Bar, Parkhurst

Nightlife

SECRET BARS & HIDDEN GEMS Speakeasies, underground bars, pop-up spaces and member’s clubs – there’s nothing like a hidden bar to pique the interest of the dedicated Joburg barfly. For those who need to be in-the-know about where the latest gems are, we have you covered.

ACE + PEARL Hidden in plain sight in a nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this chic wine bar and café with a casual low key atmosphere has a superb selection of South African boutique wines that you won’t find anywhere else.

The staff are highly knowledgeable, labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events.

QK‑11, Albans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 10 300 5931, acepearl.com. Open 12:00– 22:00, Thu, Fri 12:00–23:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B THE ARTIVIST NEW At this bar, gallery and restaurant there’s a new art exhibition on the walls each month and delicious food on the menu, making it a great place for kick-starting an evening.

Set around a statement grey marble bar looked over by a more discrete mezzanine (ideal for private parties) the floor-to-ceiling windows looking onto Reserve Street mean the place is hardly a secret. However, what most don’t know is that the floor beneath houses The Untitled Basement, a sexy cocktail bar and venue used for private parties and pop-up events hosted by the DJ owners.QC‑3, 7 Reserve St, Braamfontein. Open 11:00-22:30, Mon 11:00-16:00. Closed Sun. BLANK BAR NEW This cute little pop-up bar on Parkhurst’s chic high street 4th Avenue operates as a blank space for artisanal local drinks labels. Every new edition of the bar lasts one month 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

and showcases a different spirit and the interiors are completely redone each time to reflect the theme associated with the drinks on offer. Previous editions include a Japanese whisky bar and a World Cup Russian vodka bar (complete with a mural of Red Square and staff in fur hats).QCnr 4th Ave and 12th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 566 6877, blankbar.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Closed Mon, Tue. B BLIND TIGER CAFÉ Step through the door on Parkview’s village-like high street into a bar and restaurant that conjures the swinging 1920s with excellent cocktails inspired by Fitzgerald’s age-defining novel The Great Gatsby. A popular after work hangout in an otherwise low-key suburb loved by the locals, the friendly barmen will remember you for next time.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 76 030 4200, blindtiger. co.za. Open 15:00–24:00 (kitchen closes at 21:00), Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 09:00–24:00. Closed Sun. ­U­B­I­W KAFE NOIR NEW Congolese-born artist and designer Papy Nakuw’s Kafe Noir is an oasis in the city (one street from bustling Gandhi Square). Cheap beers, delicious Congolese style grilled fish and a vinyl record player create a chilled atmosphere but the best surprise is upstairs at the rooftop beach bar (ask the staff to show you the way) where sun loungers and cool urban views await.QE-5, 100 Anderson St, City Centre, tel. +27 60 441 5178. Open 07:30–19:30, Fri–Sun 08:00–22:00. ­B­E­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

THE MARABI CLUB Effusive reviews for this place all generally remark on the atmosphere or “vibe”, a combination of superb food, slick service from jauntily dressed wait staff, interiors that conjure Joburg in an earlier age and a moodily-lit stage on which a jazz band plays. To find the entrance, look first for the enormous barrel-chested men in black standing outside a metal door on a city backstreet. Above them you’ll see a small canopy, with the word Marabi upon it.QF‑4, 47 Sivewright Ave, New Doornfontein, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 591 2872, themarabiclub.com. Open 18:30–24:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. E­L MIX COCKTAIL BAR Part of what is by day a private members’ club, this sophisticated cocktail bar in the art and design focused Keyes Art Mile development opens to the public serving up some of the best cocktails (and sunset views) around. Savour your drink with a fabulous view over Joburg’s tree-filled suburbs from the large terrace or admire the fantastic collection of artwork inside the sexy cocktail lounge. Popular with a glamorous young crowd, many of whom work in nearby media companies, the atmosphere is pure Afropolitan cool.QK‑12, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, mixbar.co.za. Open 16:00 until late, Fri 14:00 until late, Sat 10:00 until late. Closed Sun, Mon. B­W MUSE CHAMPAGNE ROOM NEW Chic, discreet and with plenty of bubbly, the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel’s Champagne bar is an elegant cocoon tucked away in the suburb of Morningside. The Champagne menu is sponsored by the exclusive Maison PerrierJouët, and there’s also a choice of Muse signature cocktails if bubbly isn't your thing plus a French-inspired ‘CasseCroûte’ menu of nibbles. An intimate space, choose to sit at the bar inside or on the small terrace overlooking the gardens.QFairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 808 7300, fairlawns. co.za. Open 11:00–24:00. B­LU Follow us on Twitter @JohannesburgIYP and Instagram/ Facebook at @JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at bit.ly/whatsoninjoburg to stay up to speed on all the latest openings. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

POP-UP ROOFTOP PARTIES 5101 Run by local tour company and social enterprise Dlala Nje, this sky-high bar is located in a converted apartment on the 51st floor of the iconic Ponte building.

5101 is available for private functions and opens for Dlala Nje’s regular events such as the monthly Unpacking Politics evening which sees leading journalists, analysts and political personalities coming together to discuss hot political issue.QF-2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea. Advanced bookings are required, call +27 72 397 2269 or email info@dlalanje.org.

DORKAY This spacious open-air rooftop venue atop the distinctive downtown One Eloff building (you’ll know it by its bright yellow and blue facade) is regularly used as a venue for sundowner parties and club nights such as the monthly Feel Good Series. There’s loads of place for lounging and the venue is perfectly placed for enjoying the sunset.QD/8-6, 1 Eloff St (cnr Eloff and Wemmer Jubilee Sts), City Centre, facebook.com/dorkaysa.

RANDLORDS One of Joburg’s best rooftop venues, the views of the downtown cityscape from the 22nd floor of this Braamfontein skyscraper are awe-inspiring. Usually rented out for private events, Randlords also hosts occasional public events such as the Hot on Top club nights which are worth looking out for.QC-3, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41 de Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, randlords.co.za

Muse Champagne Bar, Morningside

LIVING ROOM This little garden in the sky is filled with exotic plants and even better drinks. It's not immediately obvious from the street as this rooftop bar in hip Maboneng is hidden on the 5th floor of the largely residential Main Change building.

More of a café-bar, the Living Room is at its most happening when it fills up for weekend afternoon sundowners and DJ parties with a memorable urban backdrop.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi. co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission R60 before 16:00, R80 thereafter, R50 online. Tables can be booked online for R120. B­L

September 2018 – January 2019

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Nightlife

The Marabi Club, New Doornfontein

take time to prepare, it is fun to watch the mixologists work and definitely worth the wait. Facing onto the street there’s a more casual adjoining bar, Speak No Evil (next to the Coalition pizzeria), which is a fun place to hang out while you wait to see if you can crack the password for the night and figure out the secret entrance.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd (cnr Jan Smuts Ave), Rosebank, tel. +27 64 201 8310. Open 18:00–01:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B­L

THE NINE BARRELS The rooftop whisky and cigar bar Q Club shares a building with the wine and tapas bar Nine Barrels and contemporary art gallery The AGOG in a former industrial building in one of the newer corners of the Maboneng precinct. The Nine Barrels is a casual wine bar with a focus on local boutique wines that opens out onto a quiet street while the lesser known Q Club located on the rooftop (accessed via the art gallery upstairs) is a more exclusive space that comes in to its own during the weekends when there are regular DJ parties.QG‑4, 12 Lower Ross St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 458 5350, theninebarrels.com. Open 11:00–02:00, Closed Mon, Tue. B­E­L PARLIAMENT A rooftop gastropub with sunset views over Sandton.

There’s a regularly changing selection of excellent local craft beers and ciders, gourmet snack platters for sharing and other fancy gastropub fare plus a bespoke playlist of classic, and lesser-known indie tunes. It’s not the easiest place to find (look for the sign next to the Thief restaurant) and not a late-night kind of place, which is for the best considering the steep spiral staircase you have to navigate to get up there.QL‑8, Cnr Victoria Ave and 11th St, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 1467, parliamentrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Mon 16:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. B­W SIN & TAX For some, having to supply a password to enter through a secret door may seem the peak of pretension, but this bar is still wholeheartedly dedicated to remaining secret and exclusive. The themed menus, with names like Amber and Gardenia, change with the seasons and while the drinks 42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE An unusual location, but then partying on Wednesdays is in itself unconventional. This warehouse space in the Kramerville design district with a Sandton skyline view is a veritable explorer’s treasure chest, stuffed with a covetable collection of antiques and other items of curiosity from across the world. Only open on Wednesdays and the first Sunday of the month, the retro party music, broad selection of craft beers and fun yet sensibly restrained patrons are likely to make you forget it’s only Thursday tomorrow.

Q6 Desmond St (below Katy’s Palace Bar), Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235. Open Wed 16:00–24:00. B­L THE TENNIS CLUB The former Ellis Park Tennis Club has been transformed into a unique venue and ‘social club’ hosting off-the-wall, underground parties. The late night party place of choice for those ‘in the know’, the atmosphere is akin to being invited to the house party of your coolest friend’s even cooler acquaintance. The club has been operating for a year, although their official launch is still set for summer 2018.

Fridays and Saturdays are the best party nights. Keep your eye on their Instagram page @thetennisclubjhb for the latest events.QCnr Bertrams and Miller Sts, Bertrams.

TESTAMENT NEW Launched by the curators of the edgy Kalashnikovv art gallery next door, this slick minimalist cocktail bar celebrates ‘creativity as religion’ with thoughts about religion, life, death and the cult of social media reflected in a series of striking installations referencing catacomb skulls and death clocks. On the menu expect premium spirits and carefully crafted cocktails and sitting beside you in the pews is probably the Joburg art scene’s who’s who.QC‑3, 68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 83 781 7406. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00–24:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Corkage R150. ­W ZWIPI UNDERGROUND BAR NEW This unusual bar is located inside an old bank vault underneath the graceful Edwardian Somerset House building on Gandhi Square in Joburg's City Centre. It is the first stage of a major redevelopment of the entire building which will see a café-restaurant and boutique hotel move into the elegant arcade upstairs. After descending the steep stairs beyond an unassuming side street door you find yourself in an underground lair filled with old safes and more than 1000 unopened safety deposit boxes.QE-5, Somerset House, Gandhi Square, City Centre, +27 82 894 5216, thunderwalker.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

PUBS & BEER GARDENS

KITCHENER’S CARVERY BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something preten­tious. By day it’s a quiet pub and by night its packed to the rafters with DJs spinning soul, funk and electro.

Cover charges apply after 19:00 Wed–Sat.QC‑3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–02:00. B­E THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen better days, this historic pub, which traces its history back to 1929 when it opened as a tea room and illicit shebeen, still brims with warmth and character. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the bar only add to The Radium's unique charm.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–17:00.

Admission R100–R120 on Saturday nights. E MAD GIANT This stand-out craft brewery in the regenerated historic warehouse district 1 Fox Precinct has an expansive sunny beer garden and shares space with the celebrated Urbanologi restaurant, known for its sophisticated small plates menu. Signature brews include the crisp hoppy pilsner The Guzzler and there’s always new limited edition special

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Calexico. Photo by Cindy Ellis

CALEXICO VINYL LOUNGE AND BEER YARD NEW Found in the pretty courtyards of 44 Stanley this is one of the city’s most attractive beer gardens and was formerly Stanley Beer Yard. Inspired by a love of vinyl music and breezy Californian vibes, on Thursday and Friday nights Calexico boasts the best vinyl DJ sets in the city while on Saturday afternoons live bands play free of charge in the beer garden.

The friendly and relaxed atmosphere is addictive.QA-1, 44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open 10:30–22:30, Fri 09:30–24:00, Sat 09:30– 22:30, Sun 10:30–18:30. Closed Mon. B­­E­L

brews to try. If you’re here at the weekend drop into the 1 Fox Market next door.QB‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St (parking at 14 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, madgiant.co.za. Tours by appointment only. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. U­B­E­L

CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC Jazz, soul, funk, hip-hop, house, indie, folk and rock, Joburg’s live music scene has something for everyone. If you love jazz then a visit to The Orbit is a must during your Joburg stay (C-3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit.co.za. Open 11:30–02:00. Closed Mon).

All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found at this highly respected jazz club, both on stage and in the audience. Reserve a table and come down early for dinner before the concert. On Saturday afternoons head to Calexico beer garden for their weekly free concerts which generally feature local blues, folk, indie and bluegrass bands. Meanwhile if late night clubbing and EDM culture is more your style then get dressed up and head on Friday or Saturday nights to Joburg’s glitziest clubs like Taboo (24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2200, taboo.co.za) in Sandton or Harem (cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Tyrwhitt Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0993, haremclub.co.za) in Rosebank.

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ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING EXPERIENCES

With a brief but rich history, an exciting contemporary art scene, colourful street life and youthful and ambitious energy, Joburg has more than enough sightseeing to keep you busy for days. Whether you are seeking art and culture, history, or adrenaline-charged aerial adventures, these are our picks of essential sightseeing experiences to add to your Joburg itinerary.

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VISIT JOBURG’S NATIONAL HERITAGE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the heart of the city. A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people who passed through this place.

The Women’s Gaol built in 1909 held black and white female prisoners in separate sections. During the apartheid era many major political activists such as Albertina Sisulu, Ruth First and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela were imprisoned here in humiliating conditions and subjected to months of solitary confinement.

The notorious Number 4 prison block is where both male ordinary criminals and political prisoners were kept.

Not for the faint-hearted, wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience.

Meanwhile the Old Fort is the oldest area of the site and the place where Nelson Mandela was briefly imprisoned when he was arrested in 1956. An exhibition detailing his time as a political prisoner includes excerpts from

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

his original prison diaries from Robben Island. End your visit by taking a look around the inspiring Constitutional Court building which represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection.QB-2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za.

Open 09:00–17:00. Admission to museum areas R80, kids R40, students R45, pensioners R55 (includes optional one hour guided tour). Admission and a two hour guided tour R100, kids R65, students, pensioners R70.

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LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY AT THE APARTHEID MUSEUM This extensive museum strives to show the bitter realities of the apartheid system from many angles and a visit is an unforgettable, thought-provoking, and at times difficult experience. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. There is also extensive coverage of the tense political negotiations that took place in the early 1990s to end apartheid. A highly immersive experience.

Give yourself a few hours to take it all in. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org.Open 09:00–17:00.

Admission R95, kids, pensioners and students R80. Not suitable for young kids. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

City walks. Photo by Brian Abrahams

What to See

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TAKE A TOUR OF JOBURG’S OLDEST TOWNSHIP ALEXANDRA Alexandra, one of the oldest townships in South Africa, lies just 5km from Sandton’s glitzy business district. An area of just 6.9km2 with an estimated population in the hundreds of thousands, ‘Alex’ (as the locals call it) assaults the senses. Its narrow streets seethe with life and colour. Although it is a fraction of Soweto’s size, Alex’s character easily makes up for what it lacks in scale, making a guided tour a really memorable experience. We’ve even heard people from Soweto joke that Alex is the place they go to for a ‘real’ township experience.

Among Alex’s most notable former residents are the late jazz musician Hugh Masekela, poet Mongane Wally Serote, Mozambican liberation leader and former president Samora Machel who stayed here while fleeing the Portuguese regime, and Nelson Mandela, who rented a room here when he first arrived in the city aged 23. He described life in Alexandra in the 1940s as "exhilarating and precarious".

It is not advisable to visit Alex on your own. Recommended tour companies specialising in Alexandra tours include Maboneng Township Arts Experience who take visitors around the township to visit local artists, public art projects and small art galleries that have been installed in the homes of Alex residents (tel. +27 21 824 1773, maboneng.com) and Jeff Mulaudzi’s Buvhi Tours (formerly known as Alexandra Bicycle Tours). These are designed for small groups and can be booked as a two- or four-hour cycling tour around Alex to stops that include historic sites and neighbourhood shebeens where you can try typical ‘Kasi’ food and meet the locals. Buhvi Tours also offers custom tour experiences of Alex (tel. +27 71 279 3654, alexandratours. co.za. Tours from R450 per person).

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COOL OFF WITH A DIP IN ONE OF JOBURG’S PUBLIC POOLS Beat the heat at one of Joburg’s pools. The city has more than 50 public pools, and while some are not in the best condition others are spotlessly clean. If you are a serious swimmer arrive early in the morning to get the place to yourself. The historic Zoo Lake Baths are one of Joburg’s most delightful public pools, attracting young and old from all walks of life. The pool is 30m2 so if the shallow end is full of kids you can still comfortably complete your laps (Cnr Prince of Wales and Lower Park Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 8495. Open 10:00–17:45. Admission R9, kids R6). At Ellis Park you’ll find three heated pools including an Olympic-sized pool, a good place to put in some laps if you are a serious swimmer (G-3, Cnr North Ln and Erin St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5565. Open 07:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00. Admission R12, kids R6). The Linden Pool is a half-Olympic-sized indoor heated public pool (cnr 11th St and 4th Ave, Linden. Open 06:00–18:45, Sat 07:00–17:45, Sun and public holidays 08:30–17:45. Admission R12, kids R9). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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What to See

Tour of Yeoville by Dlala Nje

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REMEMBER THE FORCED REMOVALS OF 1955 AT SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma, that is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown.

Book a walking tour of the suburb led by residents of old Sophiatown.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130/+27 11 477 3490, sophiatownthemix.com. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Admission R60, Sof'town Urban Experience walking tour R180.

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SUPPORT LOCAL ARTISTS AT ART IT IS GALLERY The tagline of this knockout triple-volume glass-walled contemporary space near Rosebank is “curating South Africa’s undiscovered art”. A refreshing upstart on Joburg’s art gallery scene, Art It Is showcases works by an incredibly diverse range of artists, among them emerging artists and more well-known names. The gallery space stands out among its suburban surroundings for its uber-cool industrial design.

Supporting and encouraging new artists with an emphasis on building fair and transparent relationships that benefit both the artist and the gallery, Art It Is is focused on making art accessible to a wide audience and making the gallery space accessible to artists.

You’ll find works starting from as little as R2,000 up to sky’s the limit, from prints and paintings to large sculptural works. With its vast spaces large works are displayed here to their best effect. Art It Is also has a gallery in trendy Woodstock in Cape Town and arranges shipping worldwide.QJ12, 11 Chester Rd, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 6961, artitis. co.za. 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. 46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MEET OUR MOST ANCIENT ANCESTORS AT MAROPENG Maropeng is the visitors' centre for the Cradle of Humankind, an area around 50-minutes drive north-west of Sandton, where many of the world's most famous hominid fossils have been found. Maropeng's extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it – from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind and the spread of people across continents. The stories behind the numerous discoveries made here are also showcased alongside copies of the original fossils, including the world famous Homo Naledi.

Combine a visit with a 45-minute tour of the Sterkfontein Caves (a short drive away) that leaves hourly.QR400, off the R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Visitor’s centre open 09:00–17:00.

Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combo ticket R190. Discounts for kids, students, pensioners.

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WALK THROUGH JOBURG’S GOLD RUSH HISTORY ON MAIN STREET Walk along this pedestrianised street from the Carlton Centre to Chancellor House in downtown Joburg to see the covered wagons, stamp presses and old headgear that have been preserved from Joburg’s early gold rush years. There’s extensive signage outlining how Joburg’s earliest mines first worked, while the beautiful facades of the grand mining headquarters and various monuments lining the way, including the famous bronze leaping impalas outside the AngloAmerican building, are another highlight. Don’t miss the small open-air Chancellor House exhibition (one block from the AngloAmerican building at cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts) which details the work of Mandela and Tambo Attorneys who were based here in the 1950s. In front is Marco Cianfanelli’s extraordinary metal sculpture of a young Mandela called 'Shadow Boxing', a popular stop for photos. On weekdays office workers enjoy the street cafés, and the presence of the mining companies ensures the area is kept spotlessly clean.QC-5, Main St, City Centre.

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SEE THE CITY'S BEST VIEWS FROM THE 50TH FLOOR OF THE PONTE TOWER Dlala Nje (meaning 'Just Play' in isiZulu) is an innovative company based in Hillbrow’s iconic Ponte building that offers memorable walking experiences of the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow and Yeoville. Their aim is to dispel myths about these notorious suburbs and showcase the unusual history and various African communities that make these areas of the city so distinctive. You’ll get awe-inspiring views from Dlala Nje's 51st floor apartment at the top of the Ponte building, where they also often host events and discussion evenings led by leading local political commentators.QTel. +27 11 402 2373, dlalanje.org, email info@dlalanje.org. Tours from R350. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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EXPLORE JOBURG’S NEWEST ARTS HUB VICTORIA YARDS A sprawling, once derelict, light industrial complex of buildings in the formerly downtrodden suburb of Lorentzville in eastern Joburg, the 30,000m2 site Victoria Yards is undergoing a spectacular re-imagining and houses an evergrowing community of makers, artists and artisans. The underlying ethos of Victoria Yards is to create a community of makers and just about all the businesses that have premises here also have a workshop or studio space.

The first tenants to settle in have been local artists who include prominent names like Blessing Ngobeni, Ayanda Mabulu, James Delaney, Benon Lutaaya, Justice Mukheli of the innovative photography collective I See A Different You, and world-renowned photographer Roger Ballen. They are joined by art galleries The Afropolitan, Art of the Continent and the gorgeous Daville Baillie Gallery which also has a cool bookshop devoted to selling literature that talks about all things cultural from art criticism and photography, to memoirs, art history and philosophy.

Victoria Yards also has a growing collection of fashion designers who have their studios and boutiques here such as denim designer Tshepo The Jeanmaker, Yol jewellery, designer fashion label Augustine and Oscar Ncube’s clothing and lifestyle brand Drybone Co. The centre of an exciting new makers' collective that is forming in this historic part of eastern Joburg, Victoria Yards provides space for artisan workshops including the furniture studio and factory of

designer David Krynauw, the Smelt glass studio where it is possible to take a class in glass-making and glass-blowing (book well in advance) and the printmaking studio Danger Gevaar Ingozi among many others.

Craft beer lovers will enjoy visiting the Impi Brewery Company which has its own adjoining bar and pizza restaurant, while joining the Victoria Yards growing collective of artisanal drink makers is newcomer gin distillery Primal Spirit. For lunch we highly recommend The Fish and Chip Shop which makes what is without a doubt the best fish and chips you’ll eat in Joburg (traditionally packed up in newspaper to take away) and for coffee there’s the Foakes Coffee Roastery.

Spread throughout the complex of studios, workshops, boutiques and showrooms is a series of lush urban gardens filled with herbs, medicinal plants and fruit trees, creating a green and serene atmosphere.

Victoria Yards is also building its network of urban farmers from other parts of the city who also have kitchen gardens, and at the monthly Victoria Yards First Sundays event, always a festive affair and an opportunity to pop into every doorway, there’s a chance to buy produce from local farmers as well as tasty snacks from a choice selection of food trucks. As many of the spaces are let to working artists and artisans there are no regulated opening hours for the entire complex, although towards the weekend the Yards start to buzz.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za.

Dlala Nje offers insightful and immersive experiences in Joburg’s most misunderstood areas.

• Hillbrow / Berea / Yeoville walking tours • Pre-booked events on 51st floor of Ponte City • Curated experiences for business © Jono Wood

Book your experience!

→ All experiences start at our youth centre in the iconic Ponte City →

www.dlalanje.org

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info@dlalanje.org

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+27 11 402 2373

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Fordsburg. Photo by Justin Lee

What to See

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HEAR THE STORY OF MANDELA’S TREASON TRIAL AT LILIESLEAF FARM Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia was the secret headquarters of the anti-apartheid movement in the early 1960s. Mandela helped found Umkhonto we Sizwe (the Spear of the Nation) here, the ANC's armed wing and he and his comrades would later be sentenced to life in prison for their activities at the farm in the 1964 Rivonia Trial. Interactive displays outline in detail the lives of these incredible men and their efforts to end apartheid, complemented by a wealth of archival video and audio footage. Give yourself a few hours to explore.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za.Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Admission R110 (includes a guided tour), kids R50, pensioners R40, students R60, kids under 7 free.

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CONQUER YOUR FEARS ON A ZIPLINE TRAIL OR BUNGEE JUMP There are many ways to get high and make your pulse race in Joburg without getting into serious trouble. At Acrobranch in Melrose test your head for heights by ziplining from tree to tree. There are five courses to choose from appropriate for all ages with plenty of obstacles to tackle (M-12, Melrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

Closed Mon, Tue). For the ultimate adrenaline rush book a bungee jump from the top of the iconic Orlando cooling towers in Soweto. Find your feet again on terra firma with a pint of Soweto Gold lager at the Chaf Pozi beer garden while watching other daredevils take the leap (see page 55).

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TRACE THE 80,000 YEAR HISTORY OF HUMANITY AT ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum at the University of the Witwatersrand explores the history of modern humans, tracing humanity's emergence along an 80,000-year path to its African source. Compelling exhibits include extensive collections of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, plus ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.QB‑2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, wits.ac.za/ origins. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Admission R81.

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RIDE AROUND TOWN ON THE OPEN-TOP CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open‑top, hop‑on hop‑off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red Bus route starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include Origins Centre and the Apartheid Museum from where you can join a whistle‑stop two‑hour minibus tour of Soweto. The green route starts from The Zone@ Rosebank and ends at Constitution Hill. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus at 15:10. Buses Mon–Fri every 40 mins. Sat, Sun, every 30 mins.QTel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za. Tickets from R200 (R180 online).

Soweto combo ticket R480.

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BE WOWED BY JOBURG’S COLOURFUL STREET ART One of the city’s most enlivening aspects is its flourishing community of local and visiting international graffiti and street artists whose murals brighten up walls across the city. The Maboneng precinct, Braamfontein and Newtown are the best places to catch up with the latest works. In Maboneng book a walking tour through the neighbourhood and surrounding suburbs with Mainstreetwalks to find all the latest murals.QG‑5, Mainstreetwalks, Curiocity Hostel, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163 +27 11 027 5257, mainstreetwalks.co.za.

Tours from R300 per person.

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LOOK FOR WILDLIFE The Lion and Safari Park is a popular family day out for seeing big wildlife while you are in town. This 600-hectare wilderness reserve set in the Cradle of Humankind has plenty of big plains game including giraffe and zebra as well as a predators area to see lion, hyena and wild dog. Opt for a self-drive or a guided safari. The large visitors centre (entrance is free) has a huge gift shop and restaurants with views over the park where you can watch wildebeest grazing.QR512 Lanseria Rd, Lanseria, tel. +27 87 150 0100, lionandsafaripark.com. Open 08:00–18:00, Weekends and Public holidays 08:00– 20:00. Self drive from R195, safari tours from R330.

Kids under 12, free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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HANG OUT IN THE BOHEMIAN SUBURB OF MELVILLE Melville’s bohemian reputation was forged during the 1980s and early 1990s by an alternative Afrikaner set of academics, writers, artists, performers and poets. Melville was living like a wild child at a time when apartheid was strangling the nation into conformity. Today it retains its alternative and eclectic feel with its high street along 7th Street devoid of big-name brands that so often accompanies a modern change of fortune.

Melville's denizens are a mix of hues and proclivities.

With its proximity to two universities, this is a popular student hangout and a nightlife capital and the suburb's late-night bars have earned their fair share of notoriety. With close to 30 guesthouses the suburb is also a popular tourist stopover. The wild child appears to be growing up with a steady growth in upmarket bars and restaurants dominating 7th Street. The quirky 27Boxes, a container shopping development located between 3rd and 4th Avenues, just off 7th Street, has brought to the neighbourhood a family-friendly atmosphere with a great kids' playground, bright and airy cafes and a fun collection of fashion and gift shops. Testament to Melville’s independent spirit these include everything from an artisanal bakery, to an African bookshop, vintage fashion stores and a New Age shop specialising in crystal healing and astrology books.

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SPEND THE DAY IN SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township is so large it could practically be considered a city in its own right. There is no shortage of important heritage landmarks, such as the Hector Pieterson Museum and the Nelson Mandela House Museum, to visit. With a unique spirit and culture that is all its own it is worth booking a tour with a local guide and putting aside a day to really get under the skin of this fascinating place – or better still book a room at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers and spend the night here too. See our Soweto guide on page 53 for more.

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WALK ONTO THE PITCH AT EMIRATES AIRLINE PARK Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team by wearing a Springbok jersey here during the 1995 World Cup Final between the Springboks and the All Blacks. Rugby fans can book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium, which includes the opportunity to walk out onto the pitch (an awesome photo opportunity) and a visit to the quirky Ellis Park rugby museum which contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia.QG‑3, Emirates Airline Park (formerly Ellis Park Stadium), 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 61 400 4883 or +27 11 402 2960, ellispark.co.za. Open 08:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Call in advance to book a visit. Admission R50, kids R20.

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September 2018 – January 2019

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What to See

Nzunza portrait by Hannelie Coetzee, Braamfontein

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50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ART & DESIGN IN BRAAMFONTEIN One of Joburg’s most vibrant examples of inner city regeneration, the student district of Braamfontein (or simply ‘Braam’ as locals know it) is defined by its edgy galleries and abundant street art, busy nightlife, café culture and an addictive creative energy that attracts a youthful alternative crowd at any hour of the day. A day (or night) spent exploring Braam’s lively streets is one of the best ways to get a taste for Joburg’s fast-paced urban regeneration and the creative and ambitious energy that is transforming this city.

Start your exploration at The Grove (on Melle St, between Juta and De Korte Sts), a colourful public square that has been carved out of a city block by local property developers South Point who have spearheaded much of Braamfontein’s regeneration. Café culture rules with several bars and cafés all spilling out onto the square.

On Juta Street pop into the tiny Black Forest Bakery for the finest German pastries. Across the road is the 99 Juta building which is swiftly becoming an interior design hub, home to the showrooms of leading South African design brands Dokter & Misses and UrbanNative. Also on Juta Street are art galleries Stevenson, Assemblage and Kalashnikovv, all known for edgy exhibitions that showcase the works of exciting contemporary African artists.

Doubling back, cross over De Korte Street and onto the pedestrianised Reserve Street to check out The Artivist, a bar, eatery and art gallery launched by DJs Kenzhero and Bradley Williams, with good food and cocktails that appeals to the neighbourhood's post-student, young professional crowd. Take a right on De Korte and visit the cool Puma and Puma Select store for designer threads. Nearby is also the Converse store and X-Trend for sneaker freaks.

Graffiti and public art is a major feature of Braamfontein’s streetlife. On 28 Melle Street look out for the 10-storey Nzunza portrait made from 2000 ceramic plates by local artist Hannelie Coetzee. Coetzee also has another smaller and less obvious artwork in the neighbourhood, a gorgeous mosaic of a street trader hidden at the corner of Jorissen and Henri Streets.

Other impressive public art installations to look out for in the neighbourhood include Clive van den Berg’s huge Eland sculpture on Jan Smuts Avenue facing the excellent Wits Art Museum, a tribute to the wildlife that once roamed these parts freely. Meanwhile graffiti mural hotspots include the alleyway that crosses 19 Henri Street near the graffiti-focused art gallery and shop Grayscale, the corner of Eendracht and De Korte Streets, the corner of De Beer and Juta Streets (look up to admire Shepherd Fairey’s epically proportioned purple tribute to Madiba) and the alleyways that run parallel to Juta and De Korte Streets where there’s a broad array of works including a gorgeous mirror mosaic mural of birds in flight opposite Neighbourgoods Market at 6 De Beer Street. For graffiti and street art tours of the area contact Past Experiences tel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za or Jozy Triangel Tours +27 61 040 7765, jozytriangel.co.za.

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TRAVEL BACK IN TIME TO THE VICTORIAN ERA AT LINDFIELD HOUSE Lindfield House is a unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life presided over by Katherine Love, who, faithfully dressed in period costume, brilliantly conjures the Victorian era through her vast knowledge and the lavish exhibits that spread across 18 object-filled rooms.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932. Visits by appointment only. Admission R50, pensioners R30.

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SEE THE CITY BY SKATEBOARD WITH CITY SKATE TOURS This is the brainchild of two 'skater boys' who conceptualised the tour after showing friends around the inner-city on skateboards. Self-taught guide and co-founder Ayanda Mnyandu fills the skateboarding tour with interesting anecdotes about Joburg's early history. Tours lasts three hours and include a skateboarding lesson. Skateboards are provided (tours are for persons aged 18-plus only).QTel. +27 79 839 8833, email cityskatetours@gmail.com. Tours from R300.

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RELAX IN THE PARK Joburg is blessed with one of the best climates. In spring and summer the sun is almost always out and the temperature stays at a solid 25-300C, perfect weather for relaxing in the park with a picnic. See our Garden City feature on page 36 for a guide to Joburg’s most beautiful parks and secret gardens to explore this spring.

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TASTE INDIAN JOBURG IN FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, today the predominantly Muslim area is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. There are plenty of cheap and cheerful places to eat everything from north Indian curries and masala dosas to Turkish kebabs and traditional sweetmeats.

In the centre of Fordsburg is the Oriental Plaza which opened in the 1970s in an attempt to compensate Indian shop owners whose businesses had been destroyed during the apartheid forced removals.

What was once a white elephant is now a thriving bazaar with fabric shops, spice shops, fast fashion, a great luggage selection, kid's toys, sari silks, haberdashery and budget-priced homewares. The plaza boasts more than 350 stores where you can shop for armfuls of bracelets, hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts, bejewelled slippers, a huge range of wedding outfits, glamorous evening dresses and much more plus, not forgetting the best coconut samoosas in town at the legendary World of Samoosas. This centre also has the reputation of being a fair-priced jewellery Mecca.QA4, 38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St (formerly Bree St), Fordsburg, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. Closed Sun, and during Friday prayers 12:00–14:00.

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What to See

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VISIT THE LATEST CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITIONS AT KEYES ART MILE Within walking distance of the malls of Rosebank, at the corner of Jan Smuts and Jellicoe Avenues, is the start of Keyes Art Mile, an exciting development that has revitalised a formerly quiet street and created a centre for art and design in Rosebank. The first phase of Keyes Art Mile is the Trumpet building (opened late August 2016), an impressive contemporary space, with galleries, chic design stores and cafés opening out onto the street. The vast atrium is curated as a gallery space and upstairs is a cluster of slick restaurants and bars.

Once the humdrum headquarters of a major petrol company Keyes Art Mile is now one of the hottest spots in Joburg, and attracts up to 2,000 people on the first Thursday of every month to its First Thursdays street parties where food trucks and pop-up bars are set up and the galleries host free events. Flanked by wild olive trees, Trumpet’s towering architecture is the work of StudioMAS who designed the landmark Circa Gallery building next door which is encased in a series of soaring metal fins. On any day the rhombus-shaped Trumpet building is a cool space with a busy African-retro styled pavement café Milk Bar, an American burger bar BGR, the ultra-stylish rooftop Marble grill restaurant and Mesh Club, a sexy members-only club with a chic cocktail bar Mix that is open to the public and

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crammed full of impressive contemporary art.

At Circa and Everard Read gallery impressive temporary exhibitions by leading South African artists await, while at SMAC Gallery you can find edgy contemporary fine art, installation and photography exhibitions. At the high-tech TMRW Gallery African digital art takes centre stage. There’s also a host of exclusive design stores to browse, including Anatomy Design, a studio and shop that has built a name for its considered spaces, attention to detail and elegant homeware items. At True Design you'll find ltalian design brands Cassina, showcasing timeless modernist classics, and Kartell, and facing the street is the cult sneaker store Shelflife which specialises in limited-edition designer sneaker lines from leading global brands like Nike, Adidas, Puma and New Balance.

Keyes Art Mile has an exciting programme of regular art-focused events that are all free to attend. There's the First Thursdays party on the first Thursday of every month, and the monthly Art & Design Saturdays on the second Saturday of every month, an art-filled morning of talks, book launches, film screenings, exhibitions and new installations. The Pantry Market is held on the last Saturday of the month and there's also a regular Talking Art evening which sees leading artists and curators discuss their work and vision over wine.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Lebo’s Soweto Backpacker s tour. Photo by Lerato Mabato

JoburgSoweto Basics

In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive. Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and dizzying house numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms, family suites or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, fireside storytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the lush small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows – fresh bread filled with homemade curries cooked in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955, and also serves a good 'Kliptini' cocktail.QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

TOURS Take a tour with a local guide to go off-the-beaten path and experience ‘ikasi’ life and culture. City-based Mainstreetwalks offer excellent Soweto tours that include a transfer from their Maboneng base at Curiocity Hostel while the City Sightseeing bus offers a whistle-stop tour of Soweto by minibus starting from the Apartheid Museum stop (see page 48).

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a must-do (a tuk-tuk tour will suit the less athletic and there are also excellent walking tours). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and street food. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers. com. Bicycle tours from R515, tuk-tuk tours from R485.

BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in Soweto's wetland areas. An avid conservationist he is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A tour highlight is the hike up Enoch Sontonga koppie, offering spectacular views of Soweto. Tours are on foot or by bike.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R150–R450.

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Graffiti in Soweto by Senzo

Soweto

SPEAKING SOWETAN COMMON GREETINGS Sawubona / sanibonani Hello (singular/plural).

Unjani How are you? (or howzit as South Africans say).

Respond with ‘Ngiyaphila, wena?’ (I’m good, and you?).

Ngiyabonga / siyabonga Thank you.

Hamba kahle Goodbye (literally ‘go well’).

ON THE MENU Amadombolo Zulu-style steamed dumpling breads.

Amagwinya or vetkoek (Afrikaans) or fat cakes. These lightly fried dough balls are popular street snacks.

Pap Maize porridge.

Russian Processed pork or beef sausage. Originates from Gold Rush days when Eastern European immigrants sold them to mineworkers.

Ingudu / Quart A 750ml bottle of beer.

Kota A hollowed-out quarter bread loaf filled with chips, processed meats, cheese and pickles.

Iskopo An cow or sheep head braised in gravy.

Mealies Sweetcorn on the cob.

Mogodu SeSotho term for tripe.

Runaway / walkie talkie Spiced, grilled chicken feet.

Umqombothi Traditional homemade African beer.

ON THE STREET Sangoma A traditional healer.

Shebeen A backyard bar or tavern.

Shisa nyama Barbequed meat Spaza A small local shop selling everyday basics.

Tokoloshe a mischievous demon from African folklore, most commonly seen in tabloid newspaper headlines.

Tsotsi criminal or gangster.

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TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, an impoverished neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail.com. Tours from R250.

TOUR SOWETO Led by photojournalist Ilan Ossendryver, you’ll experience Soweto by meeting local community members and even celebrate birthdays and special occasions with the children of Kliptown. His warmth and good humour is infectious and a tour bonus is that he will guide your photography plus share a large file of photos shot by him on the day, after the trip. Expect to be led down alleyways and paths not usually visited by tourists.QTel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto. com, or mail ilan@ic-creations.com. Tours from R1950 for two people. Airport pick-ups cost R450.

WHAT TO SEE HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM Unquestionably Soweto’s best museum. Startling photos, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising, and in particular the day of June 16. In front of the museum is a memorial to 12-year-old Hector Pieterson, one of the first children killed by the police. Photographer Sam Nzima’s image of Pieterson’s body being carried by another student became one of the most iconic images of the era, graphically highlighting the senseless cruelty and brutality of the apartheid state. Note no cameras allowed inside.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:30. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, or 13 years and above, R10. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Soweto JUNE 16 MEMORIAL ACRE This imaginative outdoor memorial, opened in 2015, is the start of the ‘June 16 Trail’. A timeline accompanied by photographs and exceptional murals depicts the scenes of the fateful day. Among the many artworks is a statue of a key leader of the protests, Tsietsi Mashinini, who was a pupil at Morris Isaacson High School. In the aftermath, the young Mashinini was forced to flee and sadly died in exile before apartheid was ended.QCnr Pula and Mputhi Sts (opposite Morris Isaacson High School), White City, Jabavu.

KLIPTOWN MUSEUM – WALTER SISULU SQUARE In June 1955 representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups gathered in Kliptown to draw up the Freedom Charter, which laid out the principles for a country in which all South Africans, regardless of colour, race or gender would be entitled to equal rights. This document is the basis for South Africa’s modern democratic constitution. The small museum on Walter Sisulu Square tells the remarkable story. Q Cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, tel +27 11 945 2200.

Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

3 ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES HANG OUT ON VILAKAZI STREET Soweto's most famous street lays claim to two Nobel Prizewinners: Nelson Mandela (lived here with his wife Winnie in the late 1950s to early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and the modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. Vibrant Vilakazi Street is lined with restaurants and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes, plus lots of craft stalls and small shops. Tourists flock to the small Mandela House Museum (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse. com. Open 09:00–16:45. Entrance R60, kids R20). At the top of Vilakazi Street is The Box Shop, an eye-catching cube of shipping containers housing a fashion boutique and Kofi, Soweto’s first coffee roasters (7166 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 048 9900, theboxshop.co.za. 09:30–19:30, Fri–Sun 09:30–20:30).

FIRST WEEKEND MARKETS IN SOWETO Shop for art, crafts and fashion, and sample local food truck eats at Soweto's cool markets, with live music from energetic local bands and DJs. On the first Saturday monthly is Soweto Art & Craft Fair at Soweto Theatre (cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani) while hipsters head to Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers on the first Sunday for the Locrate Market.

ENJOY MEAT & BEER AT A LOCAL SHISA NYAMA On sunny weekends soak in Soweto’s unique buzz at a shisa nyama. A Zulu phrase – literally meaning 'burn meat' – you get to choose your cut from the butchery counter and have the chefs barbecue it for you. The busiest shisa nyama venues have a beer garden attached, and often a car wash too.

Popular hotspots are KwaLichaba off Vilakazi Street or the famous Chaf Pozi at Soweto’s iconic cooling towers (cnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 81 797 5756, chafpozi.co.za. Open daily. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 27 BOXES Built from shipping containers 27 Boxes reflects Bohemian Melville’s love for local brands. The centre is home to small businesses run by local entrepreneurs, among them fashion boutiques, gift shops, and cafés. Must-visit stores include the colourful Krag Drag for fun T-shirts, cushions and all manner of items that playfully reference iconic South African brands and symbols. Other must-stops are the Microgram Music Traders record shop, African-literature-centric bookshop Book Circle Capital, who have an exciting lineup of author talks, and the fantastic bakery that draws morning queues, The Baker Brothers. There’s also a regularly changing collection of pop-up shops selling everything from vintage clothing to prints by local artists and a delightful garden with an extensive children’s play area.

Kids will also love Kidchen Concepts who offers cooking classes for little chefs-to-be.Q76 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. 44 STANLEY This charming converted 1930s industrial complex is filled with boutiques and cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees. For fashion look out for local designer labels Lunar, Guillotine and Black Coffee and super stylish menswear store Odrin. Among many other must-visit stores is the delicious Belgian chocolate store Chocoloza, record shop Mr Vinyl, Sue Weston’s ceramic gifts store Storm in a Teacup, the enticing homeware and furniture store The Storer (worth a visit anyway just to see the impressive vertical garden inside the store) and Mungo Design where you will find luxurious locally woven linens made according to traditional techniques. Head to Sirkel for exquisite one-off jewellery designs.Q4 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

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VICTORIA YARDS A creative space for local artisans, artists and designers, what makes shopping at this complex of galleries, workshops and artist studios an especially memorable experience is the opportunity to look behind the scenes and meet the makers at work in their studios. Check out Tshepo the Jeanmaker and visit Hélène Thomas’s jewellery studio Yol Bijoux Nomades.

For unique home accessories there’s Coote and Wench who up-cycle found materials as well as bring together an unusual collection of treasures for your home. Also look out for exquisite glassware at Smelt glass studio and a marvellous collection of traditional crafts including wooden statues, masks, woven baskets and pottery.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za.

ORIENTAL PLAZA For a different speed of boutique shopping, and the best samoosas in town, head to this thriving Fordsburg mega-bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods, a dazzling array of saris and jewelled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions. An excellent place to shop for local fabrics with the widest choice of African and Asian fabrics, including everything from stripy Kenyan kikoi (which make for perfect sarongs or headwraps) to colourful shweshwe and ready-to-wear clothing on sale at unbeatable prices. For elaborate traditional beaded accessories head to Kwantu Afrocentric Designs.QA-5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

27 Boxes, Melville

Shopping

Luxe Life LUXURY SHOPPING

Leopard Frock by Mariaane Fassler, Saxonwold

ARDMORE DESIGN Ardmore Design is a luxury African brand that translates the intricately patterned, brightly coloured and whimsical art of hand-painting found on the highly collectable Ardmore Ceramics range, into design and decor items.

The range includes tablecloths, wall-hangings, cushion covers, placemats, handbags and even stationery.QK‑11, Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, ardmore-design.com. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. BRYLLIANTA DIAMONDS & TANZANITE This is an appointment-only destination for your diamond and tanzanite education – a perfect place to start your journey to purchasing one of these flawless beauties. Bryllianta is a plush, private and secure jewel boutique offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop. Owner Bryna's many years of experience will ensure that you can tell the difference between your carats and your carrots, and understand the quality and value of stones before you make your purchase.QL-9, The Forum, 16th Floor, 2 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121 or email bryna@bryllianta.com, bryllianta.com.

COLLECTIVE BY CHARLES GREIG This sister store to Charles Greig Jewellers in Hyde Park stocks an exquisite range of contemporary luxury items, from Kenyan designer Anna Trzebinski’s hand-made feathered pashminas to one-of-a-kind jewelled pieces, leather goods and Africology spa products. A treasure trove of beautiful items.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2714, collectiveafrica.co.za.

Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

KIM SACKS GALLERY Danish-trained ceramist Kim Sacks stocks collectable ceramic pieces, produced through artistic collaborations.

Her Moorish-styled gallery is conveniently located along Parkwood’s Art Gallery Row. Here you’ll also find museumquality traditional and contemporary handmade African objects. Also look out for Marigold's magnificent handloomed beaded necklaces.QK-12, 153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks. com. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Visit our exclusive jewel boutique embedded in the heart of Sandton By appointment only

THE FORUM, 2 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON Contact: +27 82 441 2121 | bryllianta.com

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LEOPARD FROCK Marianne Fassler's design style is bold, eclectic and electric, using vibrant colours and African-inspired motifs. Long before Europe's top design houses 'discovered' African prints, Fassler embraced an aesthetic that is distinctly chic, urban and African. Visiting her studio and showroom in suburban Saxonwold is an immersive experience. It's a dress-up space filled with rich colour and detail, and you can also view Fassler's design archive.Q34 Engelwold Dr, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 8387, mariannefassler.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Weekends by appointment only. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Featured in Italian Vogue, sold at Paris’s BHV/Marais department store and mentioned by Beyoncé, this South African designed knitwear brand is making waves globally. Founder Laduma Ngxokolo is inspired by manhood rituals of the South African Xhosa people, and Ngxokolo uses patterns from beadwork and symbolism from this rich culture in his modern contemporary clothing designs for him and her.

QB-4, Work Shop New Town, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 1532, maxhosa.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

MELVILL AND MOON The Melvill family specialise in fine hand-crafted accessories and luggage in leather and safari canvas. Their range of hand-stitched leather accessories, inspired by 19th Century explorer designs, includes bird book covers, elegant carryon bags and the Serengeti Sundowner, a beautiful leather tote that neatly stores six wine glasses. This small store is filled with interesting safari artefacts and located in the Kramerville design district, which is hunting ground and home for many of the city's interior designers.Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 11 262 5030, melvillandmoon. com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. ODRIN A super stylish menswear store offering a range of men’s clothing items that every wardrobe should boast. Items are responsibly made locally and fabrics are sourced from as far afield as the US, Europe and Japan. The store also offers made-to-measure suiting and delivery to 50-plus countries globally.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 10 900 4671, odrin.com. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

VIA LA MODA Tucked into a non-descript building in Industria North, this place is one of Joburg’s better-kept secrets. For luxury addicts, Via La Moda’s showroom is a must-stop on any Johannesburg itinerary offering up an enormous array of finely crafted handbags and other leather accessories in a glorious arrangement of vibrant colours, shapes and textures (It is said to be the largest display on the African continent).

From handbags to purses, key rings and leather belts, each item is made with care and precision, and stitched in the pristine workshop overseen by Austrian-born designer Hanspeter Winklmayr. The leather materials used here are ethically sourced and the focused process of creating a luxury product is evident from the patience displayed for precise and painstaking work. Winklmayr displays an attitude of reverence for the materials he uses. Each skin is individually treated and the manufacturing process ensures that every part of material is used. Most refreshing is that this homegrown South African luxury brand revels in producing unique designs that are frequently updated, making many pieces collector’s items, as quality is prized over quantity.Q19 Banfield Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 11 477 8008, vialamoda.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Fri 09:00– 16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Shopping

A fruit trader on Noord Street. Photo by Chris Kirchhoff

MARKETS

BOOKS AFRICAN FLAVOUR BOOKS Focusing on African fiction and non-fiction, the friendly and knowledgable staff here will happily make recommendations for you.QC-3, 20 Melle St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 16 931 0068, africanflavourbooks.com.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–19:00. Closed Sun. BRIDGE BOOKS Griffin Shea’s downtown bookshop sells new and second-hand books with a spotlight on works by South African and other African writers. The store has a lively events programme and its own coffee bar, making for an inviting space to settle in with a book. Also in Maboneng.QD‑5, 95 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 618 9280, bridgebooks.co.za. Open 08:30–16:30, Sat and public holidays 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. COLLECTOR’S TREASURY For browsers and bibliophiles it doesn’t get much better than this. Spread across several floors of a city block, this is the largest used and rare bookshop in Africa with some two million items heaped atop any surface that will hold them.QF‑5, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. LOVE BOOKS Kate Rogan’s independent bookshop exhibits her thoughtful and considered reading choices, award winning books, books people are or should be talking about including plenty of South African titles. The adjoining café Service Station is a popular neighbourhood hangout with a view of the Melville Koppies.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–14:00.

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BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight. There is also an online shop if your time to visit is limited.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 7063671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

FORDSBURG NIGHT MARKET The local community trawl this bustling open-air night market in the predominantly Muslim neighbourhood of Fordsburg for Bollywood films, pirated DVDs, jewellery, clothes, incense and spices. Irresistible aromas of Indian street foods fill the air from samoosas, breyanis and sizzling tikka kebabs to be found on just about every corner.

QA-5, In and around Mint St (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd), Fordsburg. Fri and Sat evenings.

KERK STREET MARKET For five blocks between Harrison and Von Brandis Streets in the City Centre stretches the Kerk Street market, known particularly for its fresh fruit and vegetables, vendors selling everything from traditional beaded skirts, to necklaces and knobkerries. A plethora of barbers and hairdressers ply their braiding and weaving skills from stools on the street. Worth a stroll just for the people-watching while exploring Joburg’s historic City Centre. Go hands-free.QD-4, Between Harrison and Von Brandis Sts, City Centre.

MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls and a sunny courtyard plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market, that spills out onto the surrounding streets, an addictive Sunday destination in Maboneng.QF-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKET Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 81 416 2605, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Taking up a large covered rooftop space this market brings together a wide range of talented crafters. There’s also a variety of clothing stalls selling vintage and contemporary fashion, plenty of good food stalls (including several halaal options) and a kids play area. Flea market enthusiasts will enjoy the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.

QK-12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7818, rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping CONSCIOUS GIFT SHOPPING Some ideas if you are looking for an eco-friendly, locally made gift that lasts a lifetime.

A SHIRT FROM FIVE-8THS At Elizabeth Kading’s tailoring studio five8ths every made-to-measure shirt is handmade using fine sewing techniques and designed to last for many seasons. Meticulously designed and made using the finest ethicallysourced fabrics, this is anti-fast-fashion, bent on style and less wastefulness.Q44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 79 739 9265, five8ths.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–15:00.

NOTEBOOKS FROM IWASSHOT IN JOBURG An outlet for former street kids who receive photography training through the I Was Shot Foundation, this innovative studio produces a great range of decorative gifts, many of them made from waste materials. Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of the collective’s photographers whose images are emblazoned on a range of products that include T-shirts, and notebooks and photo frames made from recycled materials.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, iiilovelocal.com. Open 09:00–16:00. Also at Rosebank Mall.

CARRY YOUR SHOPPING IN A COOL TOTE BAG If you can’t bear plastic carrier bags head to 44 Stanley in Milpark and pick up a bag from local designer Love Jozi’s city map range or find limited edition totes printed with cool illustrations on sale at Brunch.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, 44stanley.co.za.

ORGANIC BEAUTY PRODUCTS From lipsticks, moisturiser and sunscreen to soaps, shampoos and even deodorants, there’s no better place to shop for ethical beauty products made from natural sustainably sourced ingredients than Bryanston Organic Market. The Green Goodies natural glycerine soaps made with local ingredients such as baobab, avocado or honeybush make for particularly nice gifts if you are looking for something with an African flavour. Goods can also be ordered through the market’s online store.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket. co.za. Open Thu and Sat 09:00–15:00.

PRE-LOVED AND SECOND-HAND CLOTHING Shopping for pre-loved and vintage clothing is a great way to reduce your carbon footprint. In Maboneng VintiQueen is a local favourite vintage clothing store stocking a wellhoned selection of on-trend women’s clothing from the 1950s to the 1980s ( 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, tel. +27 79 163 8187. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30–16:00.

Closed Mon). In suburban Parkhurst you can help support the work of the Hospice Wits by shopping for clothing and gifts at their charity shop (59 6th St, Parkhurst, +27 11 327 6259, hospicewits.co.za. Open 08:30-16:30, Sat 09:0016:00. Closed Sun). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

The most established precinct on the edge of downtown Joburg. Enjoy outdoor dining, artisinal food makers, local fashion, art, design and specialist shops and services.

WWW.44STANLEY.CO.ZA | 44 STANLEY AVENUE, BRAAMFONTEIN WERF

PLASTIC-FREE REUSE YOUR BAMBOO FIBRE COFFEE CUP Half a trillion disposable coffee cups are manufactured annually around the world, of which it is estimated that less than 1% is recycled. Play your part by buying your own takeaway coffee cup made from bamboo fibres available in a range of colourful patterns from Joburg’s Fair Trade coffee chain.QMotherland Coffee Company has branches at The Zone@Rosebank, Dunkeld West Shopping Centre and Sandton City, motherlandcoffee.com.

BUY YOUR OWN GLASS STRAW For many the war on single-use plastics began with plastic straws and across Joburg you’ll find cafés and restaurants eliminating them. South African brand Restraw makes glass straws that come with their own neat little hemp pouch.QSee restraw.co.za for stockists.

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C O O L J O B U R G S TAY S LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built on mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency Johannesburg is one of the city’s top business hotels favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station (L-11, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com.

224 rooms). Also in Rosebank The Winston is an elegant boutique hotel, ideal for business or romance. Modelled on Joburg's grand historic colonial architecture, the decor is a stylishly quirky and colourful mix of contemporary design pieces and unusual African artefacts (L-12, 6 Tottenham Ave, Melrose, tel. +27 11 268 3140, thewinstonhotel. co.za). If leisure is what you seek, the Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs with drop-dead gorgeous views of this most-treed city (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons. com/johannesburg. 117 rooms). At the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn, it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom (K-9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. 53 rooms).

GUESTHOUSES AND B&BS For a personalised local touch, book a room at one of Joburg’s friendly owner-run guesthouses and B&Bs, many of them scattered across Joburg’s pretty suburbs such as Craighall Park, Parkview and Melville. Favourites include the multi-award-winning Liz at Lancaster which offers 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

bed and breakfast and self-catering suites. Owner Liz Delmont is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy your stay (J-10, 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083 or +27 83 229 4223, lizatlancaster. co.za.

7 rooms). In Melville, Lucky Bean (sister of the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on 7th Street) sits on a quiet tree-lined street within walking distance of Melville’s buzzing main strip 7th Street. The individually decorated suites have tasteful flourishes and luxury linens, and come with private entrances and easy access to the pool (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4514, luckybeanguesthouse. co.za. 9 rooms).

INNER-CITY STAYOVER If it’s happening in the hip downtown Maboneng Precinct, then Curiocity African Design Hostel is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and city aficionado, who runs Mainstreetwalks tour company. Curiocity hosts live-music events, rooftop picnics, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms, a loft apartment and Curiocity Pads – 12 boutique apartments, each designed by an artist to reflect a particular decade of Joburg’s first 120 years. (G-5, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocity.africa. 54 beds). Across town in Braamfontein Once in Joburg is another popular choice in the heart of the city’s most student-centric neighbourhood.

There's an array of accommodation options from which to choose (C3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 87 625 0639, onceinjoburg.co.za. 60 rooms).

For more recommended establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download our In Your Pocket City Essentials app (iOS and Android). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Winston Hotel, Rosebank

Where to Stay

Spas & Salons SPAS & SALONS

AMAZI Don’t mistake this bright, welcoming and beautifully designed salon as just a place to get your nails buffed and polished, it’s also the site of an amazing story of social enterprise that will make you proud of what your shiny tips have supported. Founded on an ethos of economic inclusivity, Amazi recruits, trains and employs young women who have come from backgrounds of domestic abuse, trauma and great personal difficulty. Personal development is part of the job. Amazi staff have access to both a life coach and personal and financial counselling services, plus opportunities for promotion into management.QC‑2, Reserve St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 79 623 6142, amazibeauty.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00 Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. FAIRLAWNS SPA A winner of numerous awards the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel’s Spa emphasises peace and tranquillity. The wide selection of face and body treatments includes traditional South East Asian natural clays and oils. Bird life and the sound of running water amid a bamboo grove complete the picture.

QAlma Rd, Morningside Manor Ext. 6, Sandton, tel. +27 11 804 2540, fairlawns.co.za. Open 08:00–19:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun and Public Holidays 09:00–17:00. A full body Swedish massage (60 mins) costs R750.

FOUR SEASONS SPA WESTCLIFF The search for serenity should lead here. Book a single treatment or a package and make use of the spa facilities that include his and her’s steam rooms and saunas. A wraparound outdoor lap pool and a jacuzzi that hugs the post-treatment relaxation room are more reasons to stay

Medical Aesthetic Practice located in a professional and exclusive setting in the heart of Sandton.

Wyatt, 44 Stanley in Milpark

AESTHETICS ON 5TH At this exclusive and discreet medical aesthetics consulting practice you will get professional and highly specialised advice and rejuvenating treatments to combat ageing and make you look your absolute best. Treatments on offer include filler injections, fraxel laser treatments, ulthera and thermage skin tightening, cool sculpting and fat freezing.

Look good, feel good!QK‑11, 3a 5th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 788 7910, aestheticson5th.co.za. Open 08:30– 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

on. Treatment time starts with a relaxing foot ritual and you get the option of choosing the genre of music you would like to accompany your treatment.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6450, fourseasons.com/johannesburg/spa.

Open 09:00–20:00. Massage, from R890 for 75 minutes.

THE SAXON SPA An ultra-luxe favourite, once the fluffy gown is on, the cares of the outside world will seem very far away. Treatments include expert facials, manicures and massages, and there’s even a hair salon to ensure you leave looking fabulous.

Book off some time so you can enjoy the excellent spa facilities.QK‑9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za/the-spa. Open 08:00–21:00. A full body Swedish massage (60 mins) costs R1100. ­ WYATT This uber-chic hairdressing and barber salon at 44 Stanlry has super stylish decor and stylists with cutting-edge looks.

Wyatt also stocks a range of organic hair products.QA‑1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 6111, 44stanley.co.za/shop/wyatt-hairdressing-barbering.

Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Start the journey to a better you!

We offer: • Neurotoxin and Filler Injections.

• FRAXEL Laser.

• ULTHERA and THERMAGE Skin Tightening.

• COOLSCULPTING Fat Freezing.

• Many other aesthetic treatments

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

011 788 7910 www.aestheticson5th.co.za info@aestheticson5th.co.za

September 2018 – January 2019

63

A

B Rosebank (6.5km) Sandton (15km)

C

1

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17

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St Hook

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St

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13

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St

st

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Hall St

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Albertina Sis Fraser St

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Ferreira St

St

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Helen Jose

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Ntemi Pilis

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Pritchard St

Main St

5

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Kort St

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9  Commissione 21

14

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Ka Isaka Se

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Park Driv

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St

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Gerard Seko

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Juta St 

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Fordsburg

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Station St

4

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5

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Henri St 

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Entertainment Stanley Beer Yard The Orbit Live Music & Bistro Goliath Comedy Club Market Theatre Joburg Theatre PopArt Theatre & The Bioscope Independent Cinema

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 Jorissen St

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Stiemens St

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