February 2019 - April 2019

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

February - April 2019

Art city

A guide to graffiti neighbourhoods

The wheel deal Cycling in Joburg

N°16 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

EAT & DRINK

SHOP & SERVICES Amazi Nail & Beauty Bar Archive Branded Feet Civic Tailors Dip Street Dokter and Misses Puma Select Puma Relay Spec Station The Cross Trainer Editions TOMS Urban Eatery Zando

(079) 623 6142 (011) 339 1314 (074) 888 5954 (011) 403 7560 (011) 027 5508 (011) 403 1024 (087) 339 7306 (087) 230 7306 (011) 339 1110 (011) 403 7722 (011) 339 1078 (011) 403 4105 (011) 403 1395 www.zando.co.za

CULTURE Origins Centre Stevenson Gallery Wits Arts Museum

(011) 717 4700 (011) 403 1055 (011) 717 1365

86 Public Chicken Licken DoubleShot Fateema’s Father Coffee Galata Turkish Bakery Great Dane KFC Kitchener’s Metanoia Mimmo’s Nando’s Pizza Hut Post R Janas RocoGo The Artivist The Bannister The Immigrant Velo

WORK – CREATIVE OFFICE SPACE

STAY

South Point CNR

Once In Joburg

(011) 489-1900

For more information and details of the 2019 calendar of events visit

(011) 403 3055 (011) 025 9827 (083) 380 4127 (011) 339 6106 (082) 513 4258 (011) 339 1492 (011) 403 1136 (011) 403 1858 (011) 403 0166 (011) 339 1551 (011) 339 1366 (011) 339 8871 (010) 060 0602 (072) 248 2078 (011) 403 9618 (010) 592 1816 (011) 339 1647 (011) 403 6888 (065) 960 3980 (011) 403 0695 (087) 057-2638

Foreword & Contents Johannesburg In Your Pocket celebrates its fifth birthday with this, our 16th issue. Much has changed since we first set out to give Africa’s most visited city a much-needed insider’s guide. Sandton's transformed cityscape now offers an infinitely more interesting restaurant scene than the one we used to consciously avoid (see p.30), esteemed publications from Forbes to Vogue agree that the downtown districts of Maboneng and Braamfontein are among the world's coolest neighbourhoods, cyclists are taking to the city's streets (see p.36) and Joburg is indisputably an art capital. Daily we are still committed to sharing the incredible riches of this city online, in our email newsletter and social media. Stick with us if you want to know what makes this one of Africa's most culturally exciting destinations.

COVER IMAGE Local street artist Dreda.MSE (an acronym for his crew, the MzantsiStree- Johannesburg tExhibitz) painted the vibrant female character featured on our cover during the City of Gold Urban Arts Festival in October 2018, an annual celebration of Joburg's dynamic street art scene. The image was snapped by our publisher on a graffiti walking tour of Braamfontein. See page 34 for our guide to graffiti in Joburg.

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

and Surrounds

February - April 2019

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

The writing on the wall

Joburg's graffiti

Cycling the city Life on two wheels

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Basics 6 Essential information for your stay

What’s on

10

A round-up of the season’s coolest events

Where to eat Top Joburg chefs to watch

Contemporary dining African food and grillhouses Mediterranean, Mexican and Latin American Cafés and coffee Sandton dining guide Where to eat in Braamfontein and Maboneng

Art City

20 20 22 24 26 28 30 32

Wall-to-wall graffiti

34 34

Cycling Joburg

36

How to explore Joburg on two wheels

N°16 - R40

ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Assistant Editor Louise Whitworth Researchers & writers Melusi Hlatshwayo, Idara Udom, Caitlin Lesczynski Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Photography In Your Pocket City Guides or as credited Maps © A collaboration between In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196.

Enquiries For general enquiries and event listings mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Advertising For print and online advertising, social media marketing and activations as well as advertising and promotions in our weekly What's On newsletter, mail laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, or tel. +27 82 572 3553.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Published February, May and September.

ISSN 2311-3944

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Nightlife Joburg's craft cocktail revolution Bars, pubs, rooftops and club nights

Essential sightseeing

39 39 42

25 essential sightseeing experiences

44 44

Soweto

53

Historic sights and the best tour picks

Shopping A shopping guide for fashionistas Shopping for African craft Bookshops Five essential gifts for foodies

56 56 60 61 62

Spas and salons

63

Spa days, nail bars and salons for him and her

Maps 64-67 City Centre, Sandton Central, Sandton to Rosebank EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

...and she lived happily ever after.

S I N C E 19 6 2

Nelson Mandela Square Studio Lorenzi New Doornfontein Emporio Lorenzi Franschoek V&A Waterfront Lorenzi Esterer Oudtshoorn The Palace at Sun City +27 11 402 6832 www.lorenzi.co.za

Maude Street, Sandton Central. Photo by Rich T for Shutterstock.com

Basics

24-HOUR CITY

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS (FEB – APR)

Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

When a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

Holidays: March 21 – Human Rights Day; April 19 – Good Friday; April 22 – Easter Monday; April 27 – Freedom Day.

CELLPHONES & SIM CARDS By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data.

CRIME & SAFETY Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot.

Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines that are located inside banks.

If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). In the case of an emergency, from a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre that will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out R10 to petrol attendants.

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road, passing on the right. Maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left lane because they make frequent unannounced stops, and in the City Centre avoid the awkwardly-placed bus lanes. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) sometimes don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not uncommon even on freeways. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address.

See pages 64–67 for maps. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

URBAN OASIS Come and get the full Victoria Yards experience on the first Sunday of every month.

Experience Artisan Studios, Growers & Makers Market, Galleries, Fashion & Design, Kids Entertainment, Food Vendors and more.

#FirstSundays 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, Johannesburg pj@vicyards.co.za victoriayards.co.za

A Joburg tuk tuk driver. Photo by Rich T, Shutterstock.com

Basics AIRPORTS O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern with plenty of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket in the domestic terminal B before you check in. Here you'll also find the check-in for all South African Airways (SAA) flights.

For other international flights, head to Terminal A. Lock your luggage or have it securely wrapped, and only hand it over to check-in counter staff.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be long so arrive at the airport more than two hours before your international flight and one-and-a half-hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R158. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. After hours you will need to travel by taxi, Uber or book a shuttle bus.

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain for O.R. Tambo.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQ Tel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za. See Sightseeing for our recommended Joburg and Soweto tour guides.

LOCAL LINGO South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Southern Sotho, Swati, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. South Africa also has some universal words that are all its own including: Eish! (an exclamation of surprise or wonder), Howzit? ('how are you?') and the always confusing just now which basically means any time in the near future (from a few minutes to a few hours) and the relatively more immediate now now.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport, taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. Buy a Gautrain Gold Card at the stations, and top it up for your journey. Each Gautrain station is served by a Gautrain bus network linking commuters to nearby suburbs. There is no weekend bus service.

A minimum of R25 loaded on your Gold Card is required to use any Gautrain services. Prices start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

MINIBUS TAXIS AND TAXI CABS Taxi cabs (or meter taxis) are not to be confused with South African 'taxis', the city's ubiquitous commuter minibuses.

There are few places from which to hail a cab in the street and some of the unmetered private cabs at ranks have a reputation for overcharging. Confirm a price upfront or book by phone or app. Once ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point (especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where rival private taxi operators and Uber drivers have been known to conflict). Global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network as does rival app Taxify. The city’s largest taxi cab company is Zebra Cabs (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za).

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to Soweto destinations. Buy a smart card and top it up at the larger stations such as Park Station, Carlton Centre or Library Gardens or buy single tickets for R15. Note that you cannot buy tickets on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around 1km or more apart. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most run between 05:30 and 21:00. See reavaya.org.za for routes. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Back to the City. Photo by GAS Photographic

What’s On

WHAT’S ON IN JOBURG? Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed. Art exhibition openings are generally held on Thursday nights or Saturday mornings. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – visit neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville or Rosebank for the widest choice of nightlife.

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Friday or Saturday night, best make a reservation.

If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km Park Runs (parkrun.co.za) on weekend mornings in the city’s parks.

Before going to print, we strive to bring together a selection of the best events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers.

Space is limited so we can never put all we would like in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes may occur so, for a complete guide, visit johannesburg.inyourpocket. com or download our City Essentials app and browse our What’s On calendar. Every day we share news and updates on social media. Follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at bit.ly/whatsoninjoburg to stay up to speed.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS & FAIRS 03.02, 03.03, 07.04 SUNDAY FIRST SUNDAYS AT VICTORIA YARDS On the first Sunday of the month the heart of Joburg’s ‘Makers Valley’ (east of downtown) hosts a feast of art and culture, with resident artists opening their studio doors to the public, gallery exhibition launches, a farmers' market, plenty of food and craft stalls and a very festive atmosphere.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za.

07.02, 07.03, 04.04 THURSDAY FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday evening of the month, the art gallery filled neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Rosebank come to life with exhibitions, launches, live music and DJ sets. Braamfontein events are usually free to attend while Keyes Art Mile's street party in Rosebank, which includes food trucks, live bands and pop-up bars, costs R65 (online) or R100 at the gate.Qfirst-thursdays.co.za.

02.03 SATURDAY ULTRA SOUTH AFRICA One of the world’s biggest all-night dance music events with three stages, over 30,000 festivalgoers and a blockbuster lineup of international DJs which this year includes The Chainsmokers, Martin Garrix and Black Coffee.QNasrec Expo Centre, Nasrec, ultrasouthafrica.com. Tickets R800-R950.

16.03 SATURDAY ROCK ON THE LAWNS FEATURING THE CURE Iconic rock band The Cure comes to South Africa, playing the Rock on the Lawns festival at Carnival City. Support acts include local bands Fokofpolisiekar and Karen Zoid.QCarnival City, Elsburg Rd, Brakpan, ampevents.co.za. Tickets from R495. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 21.03 THURSDAY – 24.03 SUNDAY HUMAN RIGHTS FESTIVAL Coinciding with the national Human Rights Day holiday this four-day festival promotes activism and social justice through a programme of discussions, art, music, literature and film.QB-2, Constitution Hill, Braamfontein, constitutionhill.org.za. Tickets TBA. 30.03 SATURDAY NIGHT OF A 1000 DRAWINGS A festive fundraiser for the Streetlight Schools programme which sees amateur and professional artists donating a thousand A5 sketches and drawings that are all on sale for R150 each. Expect food trucks, DJs, live music and a fun atmosphere.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, johannesburg.1000drawings.org. Tickets R100.

19.04 FRIDAY – 22.04 MONDAY SOWETO CAMP FESTIVAL An innovative camping festival in the heart of Soweto.

Enjoy a weekend party filled with performances by local bands, DJs and dance collectives, plus plenty of food and clothing stalls. While the festival promotes camping culture, you can also buy day tickets.QMofolo Park, Soweto, sowetocampfestival.co.za. Tickets R400-R1500.

19.04 FRIDAY – 28.04 SUNDAY RAND SHOW Africa’s longest-running and biggest lifestyle expo with hundreds of exhibitors promoting everything from camping to cars, plus a jam-packed entertainment programme that includes military demonstrations, a funfair, live music, interactive science shows and more.QNasrec Expo Centre, Nasrec, randshow.co.za. Tickets TBA. 26.04 FRIDAY – 01.05 WEDNESDAY KAMERS/MAKERS More than 120 independent designers from across South Africa gather to sell covetable fashion, jewellery, art, ceramics, gifts and homeware. There's a wide choice of artisanal food on sale and pop-up bars selling local boutique wines and craft spirits.QSt David's Marist, 36 Rivonia Rd, Inanda, kamersvol.com. Tickets R60- R90.

27.04 SATURDAY BACK TO THE CITY Attracting close to 25,000 devoted fans to Newtown’s streets, this is Africa’s biggest hip-hop and street culture festival, timed to coincide with the Freedom Day public holiday.

Expect performances by top MCs, beatboxers, rappers and dance crews plus basketball courts, skating ramps, a clothing market and graffiti competitions.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, backtothecityfestival.com. Tickets TBA. BUYING TICKETS ONLINE Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, ticketpros.co.za Webtickets, 0861 225 598 webtickets.co.za Computicket, 0861 915 8000 online.computicket.com facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

11

What’s On

Triple Crown Horse Racing. Photo by Racing It's a Rush

03.03 SUNDAY – 24.03 SUNDAY PROTEAS VS SRI LANKA ODI & T20I SERIES The Sri Lankan cricket team's Autumn tour of South Africa includes five ODI and three T20I matches. Catch all the action at Joburg's Bidvest Wanderers Stadium (fondly known as The Bullring), or hop on the Gautrain to Centurion (a quick 20-minute ride from Sandton). The SuperSport Park ground is an easy 15-minute walk from the Centurion Gautrain station.

HORSE RACING With magnificent views of Joburg’s iconic skyline and plenty of entertainment both on and off the track, race day at Turffontein, one of South Africa's oldest racecourses, is great fun. Billed as horse racing’s ultimate test, The South African Triple Crown competition consists of a series of three top-level races at Turffontein in Autumn, starting with the Betting World Gauteng Guineas, then the SA Classic and culminating in the Premier’s Champions Challenge. Gates open at 11:00 and there are races all afternoon.QTurffontein Racecourse, 14 Turf Club St, Turffontein. Tickets from R50, itsarush.co.za.

02.02

Betting World Gauteng Guineas

02.03

SA Classic

13.04

HSH Princess Charlene Empress Club Stakes

04.05

Premier’s Champions Challenge

SPORT 09.02 SATURDAY SOWETO DERBY The famous match-up between Soweto’s two top football teams, Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates, is one of the most fiercely contested in African football. Held at the continent's largest stadium, the iconic FNB Stadium in Soweto is always packed to capacity with exuberant fans sporting their team colours. Kickoff is at 15:30.QFNB Stadium Crnr of Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Nasrec.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

03.03 at 10:00 ODI, Bidvest Wanderers Stadium.

06.03 at 13:00 ODI, SuperSport Park.

22.03 at 18:00 T20I, SuperSport Park.

24.03 at 14:30 T20I, Bidvest Wanderers Stadium.

QM-11, Bidvest Wanderers Stadium, 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo or SuperSport Park, Centurion West Rd, Centurion.

Tickets from R160.

COMEDY 13.02 WEDNESDAY – 23.02 SATURDAY NIK RABINOWITZ IN DRY WHITE Stand-up comedian Nik Rabinowitz explores contemporary issues affecting South Africa and his personal life through the lens of the headlines-making Cape Town water crisis and his own midlife crisis. A humorous and intimate take on some of the big issues facing the country.QL-9, Auto & General Theatre On The Square, Sandton Central, theatreonthesquare.co.za. Tickets from R180.

14.03 THURSDAY – 17.03 SUNDAY JOBURG INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL A large independent comedy showcase featuring four days of sidesplitting entertainment with more than 40 local and international acts.QB-2, Joburg Theatre, Braamfontein, joburgtheatre.com. Tickets from R150.

CINEMA The Bioscope independent cinema leads the pack for indie, arthouse, African, and foreign-language films in Joburg with regular film festivals, classic movie screenings and fun sing-along movie nights. Adjoining the cinema is Chalkboard Café and bar serving craft beers and pizzas to enjoy during screenings (286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za). For Hollywood blockbusters there’s nationwide cinema chains Nu Metro (tel. 0861 24 63 62, numetro.co.za) and Ster Kinekor (tel. +27 82 167 89, sterkinekor.com) and in Rosebank Mall Ster Kinekor’s more arthouse-oriented Cinema Nouveau.

01.03 FRIDAY – 10.03 SUNDAY RAPIDLION – SA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL An annual showcase of original productions by filmmakers from across Africa, the African diaspora and BRICS countries, this film festival promises a packed programme of new films plus a series of master classes in filmmaking for aspiring auteurs.QC-4, Market Theatre, Newtown, filmfreeway.com/RapidLion. Day pass R155. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Karel Nel, Dish R500 000 - 700 000

Contemporary Art Auction in Cape Town 16 February 2019 at 6.30pm, Block B, Cape Town Cruise Terminal, Cape Town Preview

14 - 15 February, 10am - 5pm 16 February, 10am - 6.30pm

Enquiries 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

UNTIL 03.03 SUNDAY AGATHA CHRISTIE’S THE MOUSETRAP The longest-running play in the history of London’s West End, Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap is a certified classic.

The plot of Christie’s most popular ‘whodunit’ mystery is thick with suspense and unexpected twists that will have you on the edge of your seat until the very last moment.

Just avoid spoilers, it’s been running so long you’re sure to know someone who has seen it!QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets from R100.

01.02 FRIDAY – 24.02 SUNDAY NINA SIMONE FOUR WOMEN Director James Ngcobo brings playwright Christina Ham’s dramatic play Nina Simone Four Women to Joburg’s historic Market Theatre, with four dynamic local actresses in the lead.

Featuring Simone’s original music, the play tells the intimate story of the artist's evolution into an outspoken advocate for racial and gender equality during the upheaval of 1960s America.QMarket Theatre. Tickets from R80.

01.02 FRIDAY – 03.03 SUNDAY AUNTY MERLE THE MUSICAL Comedian Marc Lottering stars as the fabulous Aunty Merle Abrahams in this hit musical comedy full of hijinks and laughs which follows Lottering’s titular character as she reacts to her daughter’s recent engagement and the high drama that ensues.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets from R145.

08.03 FRIDAY – 14.04 SUNDAY INTO THE WOODS Stephen Sondheim’s dark and twisty musical for adults follows the adventures of a mash-up of characters from fairy tales like Cinderella, Jack and the Beanstalk and Red Riding Hood. This take on what may seem like a familiar tale is unexpected, full of emotional musical numbers, dazzling magic and suspense.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets from R100.

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

29.03 FRIDAY – 07.04 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET'S THE SLEEPING BEAUTY Joburg Ballet presents the classic romantic story of the illfated princess and her magical slumber with Tchaikovsky’s sweeping score played by the Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets from R100.

20.04 SATURDAY – 26.05 SUNDAY CHICAGO THE MUSICAL The ever-popular blockbuster story of the seductive duo Roxie Hart and Velma Kelly, and their smooth-talking lawyer, Billy Flynn, bursts onto the Teatro stage.QThe Teatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R200.

24.04 WEDNESDAY – 27.04 SATURDAY THE CENTRE FOR THE LESS GOOD IDEA Hosted at the expansive Maboneng studio of world renowned artist William Kentridge, The Centre for the Less Good Idea is a non-commercial collaborative space. The centre brings together local artists, musicians, poets, dancers, actors and filmmakers, supporting experimental, collaborative and cross-disciplinary arts projects. The fifth season of performances runs from April 24-27.QArts On Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, lessgoodidea.com.

THEATRE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUAREQNelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare.co.za JOBURG THEATREQCivic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel.

0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com MONTECASINO THEATRESQMontecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. + 27 11 510 7365, montecasino.co.za MARKET THEATREQ56 Margaret Mcingana St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Chicago The Musical at Montecasino. Photo by Jeremy Daniel

T H E AT R E & DANCE

Norman Catherine, Hunter

Estimate R40 000 - R60 000

South African and International Art, Decorative Arts & Jewellery ONLINE-ONLY Auctions 2019 25 February to 4 March 1 April to 8 April 6 May to 13 May Browse > Bid > Buy

8 July to 15 July 9 September to 16 September 18 November to 25 November www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za

Gently Does It by Paula Louw, Everard Read and Circa Galleries

What’s On

ART EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 23.02 SATURDAY JAN COETZEE | DANIEL MOROLONG Professor Jan Coetzee’s debut monograph and exhibition Books & Bones & Other Things is a culmination of seven years of research and creatively merges the worlds of archiving and art to create a collection of “bookworks”. Also showing is an exhibition by acclaimed photographer Daniel Morolong.QEverard Read and Circa Galleries.

UNTIL 28.02 THURSDAY THE READING ROOM Kick-started by Thenjiwe Niki Nkosi’s Heroes portrait series, over a number of months the Goethe Institut invited artists and writers to respond to the question; "What is a hero?"

The project ends on February 28 at 18:30 with the presentation of the final installations.QGoethe Institut.

UNTIL 09.03 SATURDAY GERHARD MARX – ECSTATIC ARCHIVE Always intriguing and challenging, Gerhard Marx's work is intimately tied to the landscape and his figuring of both literal and symbolic territory. In his dizzying new series of “maps for groundlessness”, Marx continues his investigations into the formal and fictive possibilities of perspective.

QGoodman Gallery.

UNTIL 24.03 SUNDAY HIGHLIGHTS OF WAM’S HOLDINGS 2016–2018 One of the largest art collections in Southern Africa, Wits Art Museum (WAM) is home to over 12,000 historical, modern and contemporary African artworks, although only a small portion of these are on view at any time. This highlights exhibition brings together a curated selection of WAM’s newest acquisitions, which includes everything from carved figures and finely-woven raffia tribute mats from the DRC to contemporary art by internationally acclaimed artists such as Moshekwa Langa.QWits Art Museum.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

01.02 MONDAY – 22.02 FRIDAY ANDREI STENIN PRESS PHOTO CONTEST Russia’s biggest platform for discovering emerging photojournalism talent, the annual Andrei Stenin International Photo Contest attracts entrants from over 70 countries, with the winning entries then exhibited in major cities around the globe, including Joburg. The contest awards photographers in five categories: Top News (major global news reporting), Sports, Portrait, My Planet and Inspiration, a category which awards photographers for "using the camera to capture the positive creative energy that accompanies the creative process."QMarket Photo Workshop.

02.02 SATURDAY – 15.03 FRIDAY ZANDER BLOM – NEW PAINTINGS Award-winning artist Zander Blom’s work includes assemblage, sculpture, photography and painting, and his exhibitions typically present a journey through his artistic process with finished artworks displayed alongside their original plans and concept drawings. In his latest paintings Blom continues his experiments with a new pictorial language presenting fragments collaged together on stretched canvases and loosely strung on washing lines.QStevenson Gallery.

07.03 THURSDAY – 31.03 SUNDAY KIM LUDBROOK – CONTRE-JOUR A memoir of his travels as international news photo agency EPA Photos’ Regional Chief photographer for Africa, Kim Ludbrook’s bold eye-catching photography exhibition Contre-jour seeks to capture the multitude of dream-like moments that Ludbrook has witnessed as part of his work, from the mystical practices of the South African United Apostolic Church at their sacred fertility caves to the funeral of Nelson Mandela. Contre-jour is a term for using the sun as a light source in photography. This is the gallery's first exhibition at its new premises.QFotoZA Gallery. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

07.03 SATURDAY – 30.03 WEDNESDAY DAVID BROWNE | ROBERT SLINGSBY Everard Read and Circa galleries present concurrent exhibitions by sculptors David Browne and Robert Slingsby that are both influenced by the atrocities they witnessed growing up in Cape Town during apartheid. Browne bore witness to the brutal destruction of District 6, while Slingsby willingly exiled himself from South Africa following the violent student riots of 1976.QEverard Read and Circa Galleries.

14.03 THURSDAY – 18.04 THURSDAY KHENSANI – GROUP EXHIBITION A group exhibition by Joburg-based print artists Lindo Zwane, Sizwe Khoza and Jan Tshikuthula. Khensani is a Xitsonga word meaning "giving thanks", with gratitude and appreciation for the artists' backgrounds, families and hometowns forming a central theme of the exhibition.QLizamore & Associates.

11.04 THURSDAY – 04.05 SATURDAY DEBORAH BELL| RICKY BURNETT | PAULA LOUW Art teacher Ricky Burnett, top South African contemporary artist Deborah Bell and conceptual artist Paula Louw team up for a group exhibition. Bell is best known for her examinations of the borders between mortality and immortality, matter and spirit, while Louw describes her art as an "attempt to unearth, explore and reveal, within the ordinary, the beauty that resides inside."QEverard Read and Circa Galleries.

11.04 THURSDAY – 04.05 SATURDAY CONRAD BOTES | OLIVIÉ KECK One of the founders of satirical South African zine Bitterkomix, local post-Pop Art pioneer Conrad Botes is the proud author of one of the few comics to get banned in democratic South Africa. Meanwhile master printmaker Olivié Keck’s characteristically brightly coloured artworks are centred around the emotions and intimate lives of contemporary youth.QEverard Read and Circa Galleries.

GALLERY ADDRESS BOOK

EVERARD READ AND CIRCA GALLERIESQ6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, everard-read.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. FOTOZA GALLERYQRosebank Mall, 50 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 6376, fotoza.co.za. Open 10:00– 17:30, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

GOETHE INSTITUTQ119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, goethe.de/johannesburg. Open 09:00– 18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERYQ163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun and Mon. LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATESQ155 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun and Mon. MARKET PHOTO WORKSHOPQMarket Square, 57 Margaret Mcingana St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 834 1444, marketphotoworkshop.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00.

WITS ART MUSEUMQUniversity Corner, cnr Bertha St and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Photo by Daniel Morolong, Everard Read and Circa Galleries

16.03 SATURDAY – 13.04 SATURDAY SAMSON KAMBALU Much-awarded artist Samson Kambalu's multimedia work includes site-specific installation, performance and video.

While he now lives and works in London, his work is profoundly influenced by his Malawian background and the Protestant traditions of inquiry, criticism and dissent. Kambalu was recently named one of the 50 most exciting artists working in Europe today.QGoodman Gallery.

17.04 WEDNESDAY – 18.05 SATURDAY JABULANI DHLAMINI Free State born artist Jabulani Dhlamini majored in documentary photography at the highly regarded Market Photo Workshop and is currently based in Joburg. His work focuses on his upbringing and his particular view of contemporary South Africa exploring the idea of a "collective national memory" in the context of South Africa's traumatic past.

QGoodman Gallery. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

17

Bidding at one of Strauss & Co's live auctions

What’s On

JOBURG’S AUCTION SCENE At a Joburg auction you can pick up everything, from paintings by world-renowned South African artists valued at millions, to contemporary prints, period furniture, vintage jewellery and collectable books. The open days held before a major auction are also a unique opportunity to view remarkable artworks before they disappear into private collections, and to socialise with the local art and antiques collecting community. Whether you favour fine art, contemporary painting, antiques or collectable books, Joburg has an auction for you.

BEST FOR FINE ART: STRAUSS & CO South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co is not only one of Africa’s biggest, it is an institution that alongside the sale of art, has also dedicated itself to the promotion and preservation of South Africa’s extraordinary art history. As well as a number of major live auctions throughout the year in Joburg and Cape Town the auction USEFUL AUCTION TERMS Telephone bid: A bid executed by an auction house employee on behalf of the telephone bidder.

Absentee bid: Also known as a commission bid, this is a bid lodged before the auction of the maximum amount a bidder is willing to pay for a particular lot.

Estimate price: The broad market-related range between which a lot might sell for.

Reserve price: The lowest amount that a lot can be sold for. While estimates are always published, reserve prices are confidential and act as the seller’s safety net.

Hammer price: This is the winning bid, but not the final price paid by the buyer. The final price includes the buyer’s premium and VAT. 18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

house also presents a regular programme of art talks and discussions, valuation days and open days.

Open days are lively social events with thought-provoking presentations by Strauss & Co's expert team about South African art, often with an original angle bringing together thematic collections of art.

Strauss & Co’s huge live auctions are eagerly anticipated events with incredible works by major historic artists – like JH Pierneef, Alexis Preller, Irma Stern and Gerard Sekoto – prompting fierce bidding wars, and bold works by leading local contemporary artists such as William Kentridge breaking records. Works by top international artists also frequently come up for sale.

Strauss & Co’s auctions aren’t only for the high rollers.

The auction house also presents regular online auctions where you can register and bid for hundreds of contemporary and historic artworks at prices that start from as low as R1,500. For the auction newbie, these innovative auctions are a great way to get a feel for buying works at auction for the first time with plenty of time to browse and read up on the artists before you submit your bid.

For art lovers Strauss & Co's glossy auction catalogues have their own collectable status as documents of South Africa's rich art history.Q89 Central Street, Houghton, tel. +27 11 728 8246, straussartonline.co.za.

BEST FOR RARE BOOKS: JAMES FINDLAY James Findlay is one of South Africa’s foremost book collectors. James Findlay Collectable Books & Antique Maps is located in the basement of the historic Rand Club in downtown Joburg, an appropriate location for an extraordinary collection. Regular online auctions are held through his website jellyfishtree.com and Findlay also organises the quarterly Joburg Collectable Book Faire.QD-5, Rand Club, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 779 4574, jellyfishtree.com. Open 11:00–18:30. Closed Mon. BEST FOR VINTAGE FINDS: RUSSELL KAPLAN Russell Kaplan Auctioneers' regular live auctions are held every six weeks and attract treasure hunters, interior decorators and art curators alike. Auctions include a General Household Goods Sale and Art and Antiques Auction with an always impressive selection of rare pieces, vintage jewellery, glassware and furniture. Attend an open day at the Randburg showroom, a glittering Aladdin’s cave of covetable items.Q12 Allan Rd, Bordeaux, Randburg, tel. +27 11 789 7422, rkauctioneers.co.za.

AUCTION CALENDAR 16.02

Strauss & Co Contemporary Art Auction, Cape Town

16.02

Russell Kaplan Art & Antiques Auction

25.02–4.03

Strauss & Co Online Auction

01.04–8.04

Strauss & Co Online Auction johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Market on Main, Cyrildene, Chez Fong

What’s On

CHINESE NEW YEAR Celebrate the year of the Earth Pig by discovering the authentic tastes of Joburg’s Chinatowns.

Joburg's first Chinese community grew out of the city's gold rush, with indentured Chinese labourers brought to South Africa to work in the mines. Many stayed on and established a small but vibrant Chinese community on Commissioner Street in Ferreirasdorp in what is now the inner city, known as First Chinatown. Since those early years the Chinese community has grown considerably, with Joburg’s second, and largest, Chinatown now found to the east in Cyrildene. While not officially a Chinatown, the northern suburb of Rivonia attracts a new Chinese community centred around a collection of strip malls with Chinese stores and restaurants that have sprung up over the past ten years.

EATING OUT IN CHINATOWN FISHERMAN’S PLATE A no-fuss, no frills great value Taiwanese restaurant with interesting fish specialities.Q18 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 622 0480.

CHINESE NORTHERN FOODS An extensive choice of Mandarin cooking all piled with heaps of garlic.Q20 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 74 498 5056. Open 12:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:30. Also at 369 Rivonia Blvd, Rivonia.

LAU’S Tricky to find (it’s on the 1st floor) this is the place for dim sum and traditional Cantonese yum cha.Q30 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 025 2979. Open 11:00–14:30 and 17:00– 21:00. Also at 329 Rivonia Blvd, Rivonia.

FIRST CHINATOWN The city’s original Chinatown was settled on Commissioner Street in the early 19th century but with the flight from the city of big business post-1994 the area lost the fight against urban degeneration and most of the Chinese community moved out. Still some stalwart businesses remain, most notably the Sui Hing Hong supermarket belonging to the Pon family who trace their roots back to an escape from the brutal Japanese invasion of eastern China in the 1930s. Born in Sophiatown in 1940, Walter Pon still runs the Chinese supermarket established by his father. On the opposite side of the street is Swallow’s Inn at 6 Commissioner Street, the oldest Chinese restaurant in Joburg.

BEYOND CHINATOWN CHEZ FONG Weekly bookings-only pop-up restaurant in Houghton serving a delicious 10-course Asian-inspired tasting menu.QTel. +27 74 361 9079, Facebook/Chezfong.

RED CHAMBER For a relaxed meal around the lazy susan, head to Emma Chen’s famous restaurant.QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, redchamber.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00 PRON Emma Chen’s second Joburg restaurant is a more casual affair serving thick, authentic northern Chinese noodles.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 1736. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. MOMO SOKO Run by two Taiwanese brothers who serve a fun take on east Asian street food like baos, soko skewers and Korean fried chicken. Bring your own drinks.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 6182, momosoko.com. Open 11:00–15:30 and 17:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–15:30 and 17:00–21:30, Sun 11:00–15:00.

NEW CHINATOWN CYRILDENE An impressive archway marks the start of Joburg’s New Chinatown on Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene. The language, building facades and the people are unmistakably Asian, as are the arrangement of storefronts that include supermarkets, restaurants, tea shops, vegetable markets, acupuncturists and a karaoke club. The street also has an authentic grittiness, which only seems to add to its charm. There’s a lot of fun to be had in deciphering Chinese menus that carry no English translation and communicating with waitresses in sign language. There’s more than two dozen restaurants and cafés to choose from serving a broad choice of styles and tastes from across east Asia. Favourites include Fisherman’s Plate, Chinese Northern Foods and Lau’s, although often the best way to choose is according to which restaurant has the most Chinese people eating in it. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CHINESE NEW YEAR 2019 Chinese New Year celebrations in Joburg’s two Chinatown’s are always an exuberant, noisy and colourful affair. New Chinatown in Cyrildene celebrates Chinese New Year 2019 on February 16, while First Chinatown celebrates Chinese New Year on February 23. Expect a huge street party at both venues, fireworks, traditional martial arts displays and plenty of food. The celebrations spill out onto the street to greet the dancing Chinese lion with mountains of firecrackers.

February – April 2019

19

Chefs (L-R): Chantel Dartnall, Vusi Ndlovu, David Higgs and Candice Philip

Where to Eat

C H E F S T O WAT C H From gourmet ‘Afri-tapas’ and live fire cooking to contemporary French haute cuisine, Joburg’s dedicated and inventive chefs are putting the city on Africa's culinary map.

Joburg long had a reputation for family-run trattoria and cheerful franchise restaurants but a crop of talented chefs is making sure to change that.

Foremost among Joburg’s leading chefs who have helped create a culture of fine dining in this city is David Higgs, who left behind the S. Pellegrino Top 100 restaurant Vrede en Rust in the Cape Winelands to bring his flair and enthusiasm for fine food to Joburg in 2012. After heading up Saxon Hotel’s fine dining restaurant Five Hundred (where he installed a kitchen garden to ensure access to the very best ingredients), in 2017 he launched his own venture Marble, a more casual ‘live fire’ a la carte restaurant on the rooftop of the Trumpet building at Keyes Art Mile.

Higgs and his team strive to create a dining experience that is as much about the showmanship of cooking over fire (which you can watch happening in the open kitchen), as it is about eating delicious food in special surroundings (Marble’s sunset views are in a class of their own) and most importantly, as he points out, having a ‘jol’ (slang for a good time) while you’re at it.

In 2018 Higgs opened his second restaurant, Saint Pazzo Italiano (known to locals as Saint), a happening Italian restaurant and pizzeria in the new Marc building in Sandton where waiters wear designer uniforms, DJs play, a Champagne trolley does the rounds and an astonishing light system projects Italian frescoes onto the domed ceiling.

Meanwhile the Saxon's fine dining restaurant Five Hundred has since become Grei, led by one of Higgs’ most promising former protégés Candice Philip who won the 2018 Nederburg Rising Star award at South Africa’s much regarded annual Eat Out Awards. Philip has earned praise for 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

the inventive ways in which she showcases the flavours and aromatics of herbs sourced from the hotel’s kitchen gardens in her elaborate multi-course tasting menus.

Possibly Joburg’s most awarded chef is Chantel Dartnall, executive chef at Mosaic at The Orient, an acclaimed fine dining destination at The Orient boutique hotel in the lush countryside of Elandsfontein, a 45-minute drive from Sandton (close enough to claim her as a Joburg chef).

Twice named Eat Out’s Chef of the Year, among Dartnall’s most recent accolades are Best Female Chef in the World 2017 at the annual Best Chef Awards.

Dartnall opened Mosaic 12 years ago after returning to South Africa following stints working in Michelin-starred kitchens in London, including Nico Ladenis’ Chez Nico. At Mosaic she conjures up exquisitely plated menus based around her signature ‘botanical cuisine’ that take its inspiration from the peace and beauty of the restaurant’s countryside surroundings. There’s also the option of a wine pairing from Mosaic’s famous wine cellar which won La Liste’s Best Hotel Wine List in the World 2019.

The economic hub of southern Africa, Joburg is one of Africa’s most multicultural cities and yet until recently Pan-African cuisine had no place on most restaurant menus. Belgian-Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz's glamorous Sandton restaurant Epicure, which opened in 2018, is altering that narrative. Here Chef Coco (as locals know him) serves up an exciting ‘Afri-tapas’ menu that heroes dishes and ingredients from across the continent – from deconstructed thieboudienne (a fish and rice dish from Senegal) to Congolese-style guinea fowl with cassava leaves, and for dessert, fried plantains with bissap rouge sorbet. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BR-subtract-60x185.pdf

1

2018/11/23

Among the young guard shaking up Joburg’s fine dining scene is 27-year-old Vusi Ndlovu, a top seven finalist in the 2018 edition of the prestigious S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 competition. Ndlovu previously also worked under David Higgs at Five Hundred restaurant, and now heads up the kitchen of The Marabi Club, an underground restaurant and jazz club on the fringe of the downtown C Maboneng Precinct. A combination of superb food, slick service from jauntily dressed wait staff, interiors that conM jure Joburg in the 1930s and a moodily-lit stage on which a jazz band plays, The Marabi Club is one of Joburg’s Y most atmospheric dining destinations and Ndlovu’s everCM evolving tapas menu is full of fun surprises. As you might expect, bookings are essential.

MY Another young chef leading Joburg’s recent gourmet uptick is Soweto-born Wandile Mabaso whose illustrious CY international career has seen him cooking for diplomats, CMY CEOs, presidents and international pop royalty. Having cut his teeth in the toughest New York kitchens for five years, K Mabaso left for Paris to join the kitchen of French culinary titan Alain Ducasse’s Le Meurice (who gave Mabaso the title of 'South Africa’s Ambassador of French Cuisine').

He moved back to South Africa in 2017 and can now be found in the open kitchen at his intimate food studio The SA Culinary Club (see page 31) in Bryanston, where he serves up some of Joburg’s most inventive contemporary French haute cuisine, striving to only ever serve the same dish twice. If food is what defines your travels, that's more than a few reasons to extend your Joburg stay.

RESTAURANT DIRECTORY MARBLEQSee Grillhouses on page 25.

SAINTQSee Contemporary on page 23.

GREIQSee Contemporary on page 22.

EPICUREQSee African and page 24.

MOSAIC AT THE ORIENTQFrancolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein, tel. +27 12 371 2902, restaurantmosaic.com. Open 12:30–15:00 (Wed-Sun) and 19:00–21:00 (Wed, Fri, Sat. Group bookings Thu).

THE MARABI CLUBQ47 Sivewright Ave, New Doornfontein, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 591 2872, themarabiclub.com. Open 18:30–24:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

21

07

Chaf Pozi, Soweto. Photo by SA Tourism

Where to eat

AFRICAN FOOD From Cameroonian grilled fish to Ethiopian injera with vegetarian stews, there’s plenty of African food to be found in Joburg. South African cuisine is similarly a term that covers cooking styles from typical Afrikaans boerekos to Soweto-style shisa nyama (barbecue).

AFRICAN EPICURE RESTAURANT This plush 160-seater restaurant with a terrace, in upmarket Morningside, is home to Belgian-Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz’s innovative global African cuisine paired with an extensive wine menu, plenty of Champagne and a fine cigar selection. From Senegalese-style tuna loin to North African tajine and Angolan-style confit chicken gizzards, Chef Coco’s dishes burst with colour and flavour. The speciality rum cocktails are a must-try.QL‑8, 3 Lower Rd, Morningside, tel. +27 10 594 5336, epicurerestaurant.co.za. Open 08:00–23:00, Sun 08:30–17:00. RRRR. U­B­L­W LITTLE ADDIS Heavenly smells waft out of the doors of this little holein-the-wall restaurant. If you aren't familiar with Ethiopian food the menu is easy to navigate with eight items from which to choose. Try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injera bread, giving you the chance to sample a variety of specialties, all made according to the owner's family recipes. The restaurant is unlicensed but you may bring in drinks from the bar next door.QG-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 683 8675. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–19:00. Closed Mon. RR.BN LUCKY BEAN A reliably chilled bar and restaurant which has been catering to the laid-back residents of Melville for years. The restaurant is popular for its South African dishes such as springbok pie as well as its broad vegetarian selection.

The bright and inviting bar/lounge area with clever wire crafted stools which spread out onto the pavement fills up early for weekend sundowners. There’s a great wine selection and a long list of cocktails to choose from, plus tapas22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

sized lounge snacks to keep you going.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckybeanrestaurant.co.za.

Open 11:00 until last guest (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Closed Mon. RR. B­E ROVING BANTU KITCHEN AND TOURS A ‘centre for friendship and memory’, Roving Bantu Kitchen is not a restaurant in the strictest sense of the word.

It is more a meeting place, a cool music and film venue, the meeting point for immersive tours, and an afro-soul food kitchen serving homemade dishes. On the menu you can expect to find traditional dishes like mogodu, cow heels, peanut and coconut chicken, and samp and beans. There's always dishes to make vegetarians and vegans happy too. And if your server says the chicken wings are hot, believe them. There’s a relaxed courtyard in the back – known as the Brixton beach – where braais are occasionally held.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, rovingbantu.co.za. Open 18:00–23:30, Sun 13:00–18:00. Closed Mon-Wed. RR. B SAKHUMZI This colourful restaurant and its bustling street terrace is one of the busiest on Soweto's historic Vilakazi Street.

Food is typical African township fare and if you have been hankering to try local dishes such as mogodu (tripe stew), chakalaka (spicy vegetable stew), ox liver or even maotwana (chicken feet) this is the place for it. There's a huge buffet that includes plenty of stews and salads in addition to the more exotic items, as well as an a la carte menu with burgers and omelettes for the less adventurous. Very touristy, but fun.Q6980 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 536 1379, sakhumzi.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sun 11:00–24:00. RR. BE johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat GRILLHOUSES Joburg loves meat cooked on the grill, whether it's from an Argentinian parrilla, a chef's raging oven or a roadside barbecue grill.

THE BULL RUN Redesigned in winter 2018 to the tune of some R12-million by award-winning interior designer Tristan Du Plessis, the new look of The Bull Run now matches up mightily to the many glitzy restaurants which have opened up nearby recently. The Bull Run is serious about its meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery. Alongside the revamp came the installation of a new bar, the Dollar Bar, with its unmistakable mural of Benjamin Franklin – a cheeky nod to the Johannesburg Stock Exchange across the road. On the street terrace an impressive bronze sculpture calls to mind the iconic Wall Street Bull in New York.QM‑8, Protea Hotel Balalaika, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 884 1400, thebullrun.co.za. Open 11:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R75. B­L­W CHAF POZI Sprawling in the shadow of Soweto’s iconic cooling towers, Chaf Pozi is a local institution. This lively weekend party spot specialises in serving shisa nyama, a popular buy-and-braai style of barbecue that’s a unique element of African township culture. A great place to spend an afternoon in the sun with some beers while watching thrill seekers taking the leap from the Soweto towers bungee platform.QOrlando Towers, cnr Kingsley Sithole St and Nicholas St, Orlando East, Soweto, tel. +27 81 797 5756/+27 11 463 8895, chafpozi.co.za. Open 12:00– 18:00, Fri–Sun 12:00–02:00. R. U­BES­L­6­W CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Leather saddles and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life adorn the walls of the atmospheric old warehouse in which this Argentine-owned and run grillhouse is located.

The place is moodily lit by candles and the glow from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentine-style steaks are cooked. Dip every morsel in the addictive signature chimichurri sauce and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert.QG‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:00, Sun 12:00-19:00. Closed Mon. RRR. B­E­L

#MYJOBURG SANZA SANDILE SANZA SANDILE created the Friday night Yeoville Dinner Club in the pan-African neighbourhood of Yeoville.

A dedicated ‘Yeovillite’ he has been living there since the beginning of the ‘new’ South Africa. Passionate about sharing pan-African food, style and stories with the world, he has cooked for icons such as Hugh Masekela and Anthony Bourdain and his supper club is known as much for its interesting guests as its outstanding food.

Call +27 83 447 4235 or contact him via Facebook/ yeovilledinnerclub to book a place at his table.

Favourite suburb? Yeoville-My-Yeoville. It tastes like the Sophiatown tales of Bloke Modisane's autobiography Blame Me On History.

Favourite after-work hangout? Tandoor, the rooftop reggae bar next door to my supper club. It’s been going strong since the 1990's. The Hideout Bar in Maboneng is another favourite nightcap spot.

Best place to shop? The Yeoville Pan African Market on Rockey Street. Buy fresh fruit, walk around and choose an African print fabric. Take measurements, order and get a bespoke shirt made. In between you can also discover fresh pan-African ingredients like plantain, yams and cassava that’s freshly ground on site.

Favourite place to relax in the city? Bertrand Café, a new French-Congolese lifestyle joint that my friends have just built in Maboneng.

A surprising fact? If you come to Yeoville, sundown fresh fish braais are a thing.

On weekends you’ll find me … Taking walks with my daughter Londiwe around the park, visiting artist and friend Kay Hassan at his home studio in Troyeville, or going home deep in Soweto on Sundays.

Best things about Joburg? It is Afrocentric, it's where Africans do their thing.

Joburg in 3 words: People. Attitude. Culture.

MARBLE The heart of star chef David Higgs’s rooftop restaurant is the live fire grill in the open kitchen, the spectacular flames cooking up everything from meats and seafood to freshly baked bread. This 250-seater restaurant, with a lounge and bar separated by a gorgeous glass wine cellar, offers surprisingly intimate seating and a wraparound balcony with uninterrupted views that stretch west for miles.QK‑12, Keyes Art Mile, cnr Keyes and Jellicoe Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Open 12:00– 16:00 and 18:00–22:00. Bar open 12:00–22:00. RRRR. U­B­E­L facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

23

From one of the city's best bookstores to a former dynamite warehouse you'll find plenty of inventive restaurant dishes suited to modern tastes AMUSE-BOUCHE NEW Amuse-Bouche with its harlequin-patterned tiles, wall of mirrors and sedate chandeliers is an elegant setting in a quiet corner of suburban Sandton, as comfortable for an intimate romantic meal for two as it is for a sedate business breakfast, lunch or dinner. The service here is polished and the wine list excellent. Serving an à la carte dinner menu incorporating ingredients from various cuisines, the flavours are fresh and you'll find something for all tastes here.Q Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, 1 Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 808 7300, fairlawns. co.za. Open 06:30–22:30. RRRR. B­L­W EB SOCIAL KITCHEN AND BAR You couldn’t ask for a more novel setting than this restaurant set in one of the city’s best bookshops with an expertly executed menu of contemporary small plates and entrees. The excellent wine list showcases a broad range of South African wines and there’s a literary-inspired cocktail menu that calls out to be enjoyed while watching the sunset over the northern suburbs.QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Open 07:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–15:00. RRR. U­L­W

All map references refer to our City Centre, Rosebank and Sandton maps on pages 64-67 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FARRO Farro’s menu changes weekly and mixes local ingredients and flavours with Modern European cooking techniques.

Everything from ricotta and bread to smoked salmon and pasta is prepared by hand on site. Unfussy and memorable food served in a refreshingly chic and intimate space, with the added bonus of excellent boutique wines and cocktails plus Farro’s easy-going ambience seduce you into lingering.QL‑11, Thrupps Illovo Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 71 618 4352, farro.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. U­B­L GREI AT THE SAXON HOTEL NEW Fine dining fans should not miss out on Grei, the restaurant at the luxury Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa presided over by much-awarded Head Chef Candice Philip. The menu is designed around six courses, naturally accompanied by the de rigueur amuse-bouche and palate cleansers. The hotel's kitchen gardens are the inspiration behind many of the plates and all of the dishes incorporate seasonal herbs, vegetables or fruits, many of which you won’t find easily on other Joburg menus. Philip takes inspiration from Nordic fine dining culture and each beautifully constructed plate is essentially a focus on three key ingredients.QK-9, Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. Open from 18:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Reservations essential. Tasting menu from R2080. RRRR. L­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Hemelhuijs x So Yum, Hyde Park

CONTEMPORARY DINING

Where to Eat

ONENINEONE The Hyatt Regency’s restaurant offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. Executive chef Xavier Francis is a WWF-SASSI Trailblazer Award winner, honoured for his championing of sustainable seafood practices. His regularly changing menus experiment with local seasonal produce and South African, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines. Look out for The Kitchen Party on 14.03 which combines wine tastings with a behind-the-scenes exploration of the kitchen.QK/L‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1188, onenineone.co.za Open 07:30–10:00 and 12:00–22:00.

RRRR. T­B­L­W SAINT PAZZO ITALIANO A sister restaurant to chef David Higgs’ Marble, Saint, as it’s known, is the Italian-inspired member of the family and must surely rate as one of the world’s most impressive looking pizza restaurants. Of course there is plenty more on offer including sublime seafood dishes (the oysters are a must), grilled meats and delicious bruschetta. The décor is standout with a super sexy bar area and place for the DJ plus incredible projections of classical Italian frescoes adding a mood to your eating experience. Definitely the place to see and be seen this summer. The bar is also a super popular spot. Booking essential.QM-8, The MARC Building, cnr Maude St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 10 594 5888. Open 12:00–22:00. RRR. U­B­L­W

VAN DER LINDE NEW Bringing a hint of fine dining flair into Linden’s quirky and quaint mix of dining destinations, this elegant restaurant and bar named for the suburb’s founder Johannes van der Linde manages to be both sophisticated and downto-earth at the same time with an emphasis on building simple meals around outstanding ingredients. The charred shishito peppers, flash-cooked in the restaurant’s red-hot pira oven and served with an award-winning farmhouse goat cheese is a must, as is the signature marigold mousse served with candied pineapple and coconut crumble. Choose from a table on the terrace or sit at the kitchen counter and watch the chefs at work.Q50 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 10 594 5443, vdl.restaurant. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun, Mon 07:00–16:00. RRR. U­B­W URBANOLOGI Utterly urban, this restaurant located in the fabulous industrial space of Mad Giant brewery in the heritage-rich 1 Fox Precinct, serves up sublime flavours, all exquisitely plated. The small plates menu is designed to be shared and is divided up according to cooking styles such as 'cured', 'raw' or 'fried'. Particularly popular is the wood fired kushiyaki selection, a Japanese street food style that is inventively mixed with a global range of flavours and garnishes. The food is of course designed to complement Mad Giant’s craft beers and there’s also a well considered wine list from which to choose.QC‑5, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00 (kitchen closes 16:00). RR-RRRR. Corkage R60. U­BE­L­W Saint Pazzo Italiano, Sandton Central

HEMELHUIJS X SO YUM NEW If anyone else was bringing a breakfast menu to Joburg to complement the menu at Asian-inspired restaurant So Yum in Hyde Park it might not be a noteworthy event, but the mention of Jacques Erasmus and Hemelhuijs makes this entirely a different story. A modern-day explorer known for showcasing his beautiful finds in both food and décor, Cape Town-based Erasmus’s speciality is conjuring delicate flavours in his dishes that are inspired as much by Cape Dutch heritage as by global cuisine.QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 5360, hemelhuijs.co.za. Breakfast 08:00-12:00, gao bao and salad menu 11:00–17:00. So Yum menu from 11:00. RR. U­L

PRICE KEY R = Less than R80 RR = R80–R120 RRR = R120–R170 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

25

Where to Eat BELLAGIO Not an exclusively seafood restaurant, but the flawless fish dishes are the main attraction. Grilled kingklip liberally slathered in lemon butter and herbs, gigantic langoustines and seared tuna steak feature prominently. The pasta menu is the real deal, straight from a Ligurian fishing village. Not the place to be in a hurry, Bellagio is more suited to lazy weekend lunches on the terrace.QL-11, 196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0869. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. RR. LB

The Table, Melville

EAT YOUR HEART OUT At this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery, your table comes with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with toppings, the shakshuka or excellent shawarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice or cocktail to go with it. If you are not a morning person, take comfort from the all-day breakfast menu.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. B­S­W

MEDITERRANEAN 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant inside an unremarkable Randburg strip mall now has a second more central branch in Hutton Court centre in Hyde Park. Authentic and family friendly, the kitchen here serves up delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, chorizo, prawns and calamari.QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161.

Open 12:00–15:30 and 17:00–21:00, Sun 11:30-15:00.

Closed Mon. RR. T­L A STREETBAR NAMED DESIRE This chic tapas bar stands out from the half a dozen restaurants and bars on Rosebank’s buzzing Park Corner for its huge first floor terrace and excellent Middle Easterninspired tapas menu. Pair dishes like za’atar fried chicken and green tahini or Turkish lamb gözleme with a drink from their extensive cocktail menu.QK‑12, 144 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 268 6485, streetbar.co.za.

Open Mon–Wed 16:00–22:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00 (bar open until late). RR. B­L­6 COALITION Expect to be touching elbows and ears with neighbouring diners at this tiny pizza bar serving excellent wood-fired pizzas, topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella and made according to authentic Neapolitan methods.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 900 4987, coalitionpizza. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00– 21:00. Closed Mon. RR. Corkage R50. B­S­L­W 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SOUL SOUVLAKI This double-story souvlaki shop is cleverly built out of a reconstructed shipping container. Soul Souvlaki has come a long way since owner Dino Vlachos started out with a market stall at Maboneng’s Sunday Market on Main in 2012 and now has several branches, including a cute corner spot on 7th and 3rd Avenues in Parktown North.

It’s hard to choose between the lamb, chicken or haloumi souvlaki, so make sure to arrive hungry. The deck with its excellent play list is a great place to wind down a day.

QG‑4, 18 Albrecht St (cnr Fox St), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 300 0896. Open 10:00–17:00. RR. Corkage R50. N­B ­S ­L STELLE This Northern-Italian-inspired restaurant is housed in Acorn Lane, a rambling and secluded estate shaded by acorn trees, and surprisingly within easy walking distance of busy Sandton central. The restaurant is spacious and flows out into a large and picturesque courtyard and garden that is a serene escape from Sandton’s relentless traffic and towering blocks. The menu offers plenty of delicious options with seasonal specials.QL‑9, 61 Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 646 6996, stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. B­L THE TABLE At this harvest table eatery there is a focus on bountiful offerings of freshly prepared dishes that taste like the best of homemade. Fresh is the key word with the menu changing daily to showcase locally sourced ingredients. A great destination for families, the cafe spills out into the pretty playground and garden area of the unusual 27 Boxes complex (a boutique shopping centre made entirely from shipping containers).Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361. Open 08:30–17:30. Closed Mon. R. LBW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat

MEXICAN & THE AMERICAS BAHA TACO This colourful casual Mexican taqueria is a cutlery-free zone with a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawns, halloumi or pulled pork. Everything is freshly prepared, full of spicy goodness. Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark chocolate sauce.Q38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 76 694 7400 or +27 71 345 6625. Open 12:00– 21:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so much that they decided to open a burger joint. BGR serves burgers three ways: the cheeseburger, hamburger or the lettucewrapped "Cardio" version. Ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns and basic toppings is the simple formula which make BGR’s burgers such a hit.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545, eatBGR.com.

Open 11:00–20:30. R. BS BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY Be transported to a Caribbean island in this quirky and kitsch beach bar-themed joint while sipping on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada served inside an actual pineapple. ​Rum doesn’t feature on the delicious but brief food menu, which is all about West Indian favourites like jerk chicken, fish cakes, crab curry and ribs, but it certainly does on the cocktail list. Reservations are recommended. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739, Open 11:00– 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. B RAZOR CHARLIE LATIN EATERY A flamboyantly charming eatery in Kramerville (near Sandton Central) with a Mexican-inspired menu that includes huevos a la mexicana for breakfast and for lunch, quesadillas and tacos.Q6 Desmond Rd, Kramerville, tel. +27 66 476 4985. Open 08:00–22:00, Mon, Tue 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. RR. Corkage R50.

THE ROYALE Inspired by The Cuban Royal Palm Hotel, a 1950s tropical playground for high-rolling Americans, you'll be lured here by the background salsa music and the rum cocktails. The Cuban-ish casual fare includes empanadas, sliders and crispy potato skins.QJ-10, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall, tel. +27 60 575 2471. Open 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00– 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. Corkage R50. LBW THE COUNTESS At this cool steampunk-inspired restaurant hearty home cooking meets the American South with lots of smoky and sweet barbecue flavours, excellent pickled vegetables, and an emphasis on comfort foods given a twist. There’s also a good craft beer list and a sunny terrace.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361 , thecountess. co.za. Open 11:00–21:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00– 16:00. Closed Mon. RR. LBW February – April 2019

27

Salvation Café, 44 Stanley

Where to Eat

CAFÉS & COFFEE BERTRAND CAFÉ NEW This welcoming French café in Maboneng was inspired by the café culture found in the artsy Latin Quarter of Paris where its two genial French-Congolese owners lived before moving to Joburg. There's a basic French café menu, jazz on the stereo, good coffee and wine (the all-important Parisian essentials) plus plenty of tables on the pavement for people-watching.QG‑5, 296 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0261, bertrand-cafe.business.site. Open 07:00–22:00. B­E BREEZEBLOCK A friendly neighbourhood café in the historic suburb of Brixton with superb retro 1970s decor, the name comes from the neatly painted 1970s breezeblocks lining its sunny courtyard. The eclectic menu is filled with home-style comfort food, from an eggplant shakshuka to baked butternut dumplings with hot butterscotch sauce. Dave the owner is a cycling junkie and also offers cycling lessons for beginners.Q29 Chiswick St, Brixton, tel. +27 76 705 3992, breezeblock.co.za. Open 07:00–17:00, Fri 07:00– 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–17:00. Closed Mon. UEBW DELTA CAFÉ A breezy café adjoining a converted old cottage that looks out over the lush Delta Park in the charming REEA Foundation urban farm, where you’ll also find the Gerakaris winery, a ceramics studio and a horse riding school. With stables on its doorstep, a jungle gym in the garden and a dedicated kids menu, this is an ideal hangout for families.

The menu offers simple breakfast and lunchtime favourites like omelettes, salads and sandwiches, plus great pizza.

QJ-10, 20 Marlborough Rd, Craighall Park, tel. +27 79 482 5286, deltacafe.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Thu, Fri 09:00–20:00. Closed Mon. T­B­L­ 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PABLO EGGS GO BAR This fantastic art deco-inspired café on Melville’s quirky high street is a shrine to the free-range egg, just about any way you like it: poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a green or red shakshuka (novelly placed atop a Yemeni flatbread, and probably the most popular dish). The café is also licensed so start the day with a Bloody Mary.Q2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348, pablo-eggs-go-bar.business.site. Open 06:30–16:00, Sun, Mon 06:30–15:00. ­L RICHMOND STUDIO CAFÉ Run by former journalists this friendly neighbourhood café is a popular hangout for the Joburg media crowd. An ever-expanding collection of vintage cameras has found new life as light fixtures and fabulous wall displays here.

The menu is deliciously simple (for lunch try the signature toasties).Q14 Menton Rd, Richmond, tel. +27 10 595 1070 or +27 63 412 5365. Open 07:30–17:00. U­B­LW SALVATION CAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard – perfect for relaxed family meals.

QA‑1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:30). U­B­S­L­ TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE ‘African glamour’ inspired this Nelson Mandela Square branch of the chic local chain Tashas. The decor is dramatically elegant adding atmosphere to what was previously an unremarkable corner of the square. Order from the johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to Eat extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu or from Tashas "signature" dishes.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, Cnr Maude and 5th Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 0389, tashascafe.com. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:0022:30, Sun 07:00-21:30. U­B­S­L THE WHIPPET COFFEE COMPANY Those in the know credit this buzzing coffee shop with its hipster aesthetic for putting the suburb of Linden on the cool map. The food is freshly made café-style, simple and tasty and the coffee and tea selection is top rate. The doors open super early for delicious breakfasts, making this a great place to start the day if you are an early riser.Q34 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 7310, thewhippet.co.za. Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–16:30, Sat 07:00–15:00 (kitchen closes one hour before). Closed Sun. B­E­S­L­6­W VOVO TELO PARKHURST The trademark light and airy interiors at Vovo Telo are always warmed by the ever-present bakers pounding out delicious artisanal breads and baked goods which are a staple throughout the excellent café menu. The streetside tables can get cramped, but this is still a great place to enjoy Parkhurst’s famed café culture. Also at 44 Stanley in Milpark.QJ-11, The Cobbles, 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 87 808 6063, vovotelo.co.za. Open 07:00–21:30, Sun 07:00–20:00. T­U­B­S

DELIS CHEESE GOURMET One of the few places in Joburg that can actually lay claim to the title of stocking truly ‘artisanal products’. The owners are champions of slow food and the deli stocks more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats produced with care and sourced directly from local farms. Load up your picnic basket or head to the adjoining café for lunch.Q77 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 5384.

Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 07:00–16:00. Closed Sun. B THE LEOPARD + ​ ndrea Burgener has a devoted following who have tracked A her every move to locations across Joburg. The latest incarnation The Leopard + is already a Joburg institution where you can find her innovative fresh dishes made daily, packaged and ready to take away or you can order straight off the changing menu to eat at the small tables there. Made using the finest locally produced ingredients with a focus on sustainability. QA‑1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open 09:00– 21:00, Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. S­L­6

COFFEE BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first roaster of Fair Trade coffee, Bean There sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor of the store is perfect for savouring the flavour and the smell of freshly roasted beans. Bean There also offers home barista courses and their bags of freshly roasted beans make great gifts.QA‑1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 08:30–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. U­B­S­W DOUBLESHOT COFFEE AND TEA ‘Farm, roast, brew’ is the tagline of this popular Braamfontein spot that specialises in ethical brews and sells limited seasonal micro-lots of coffee and tea. This corner shop is an ideal vantage point for a coffee break while exploring the neighbourhood, plus there’s counter space for your laptop.

QC‑3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 83 380 4127, doubleshot.co.za. Open 07:30–16:30. B­W FATHER COFFEE ​ blond-wood and white tile temple to aesthetics and hipA ster font design, this coffee shop roasts its own beans on site and you can buy a neatly packaged box of the best to take home. Service is curt (if you do get a smile please let us know) but the excellent coffee more than makes up for it. Also at The Zone@Rosebank.QC‑3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30–16:00. Closed Sun. B­S­6­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HIGH TEA Just Teddy’s High Tea is a fun affair whipped up by the Zaki family with their team of patissiers and bakers.

The Zaki family are of French and Lebanese descent, helmed by Teddy Zaki who is a baking celebrity after being voted runner-up in the first BBC-produced Great South African Bake Off TV show. Just Teddy's patisserie and boulangerie gets a relaunch in February with the addition of a tea garden at 1 Fox Precinct. You can also make an even greater occasion of it and pre-order their high tea at the historic Rand Club in the city, once the first gentleman's club of Joburg. Just Teddy creates magical pastries and delicious breads constantly inventing new and mouth-watering treats. High Tea is a combination of dainty pastries, petit fours, macarons, light and fluffy scones and delicious savouries.QJust Teddy's High Tea at the Rand Club can be booked online at justteddy.co.za. Costs R150 p.p.

February – April 2019

29

SANDTON DINING GUIDE There’s more to Sandton than just business and mall shopping. Take your pick from succulent steaks, casual café fare, Asian delights and delicious sushi and seafood.

SANDTON CENTRAL You’ll know Sandton Central by its gleaming towers and the profusion of construction cranes towering above the central suburb as it remakes itself into a global business capital. Just 50 years ago Sandton's Central Business District was little more than rolling farmland dotted with tea houses and a polo club. Nowadays however it is the economic hub of South Africa and the location for the headquarters of many of Africa’s biggest companies who are steadily transforming the Joburg skyline with ever taller and grander skyscrapers.

Most tourists flock to Nelson Mandela Square for a selfie with the impossibly tall bronze sculpture that pays homage to South Africa’s greatest leader and statesman.

While prices on the square reflect the higher than average number of tourists, there are good options with decent service and consistently good food. The best picks on the square include Tashas (see page 27), a local chain of elegant bistro-cafés that also has branches in Dubai, and the stylish sushi and seafood restaurant The Big Mouth.

A few blocks down the hill at the corner of West Street and Alice Lane the impressive new Alice Lane Precinct is setting a new standard for pedestrianised spaces in Sandton with a green, open and airy feel that comes with some of the best, uninterrupted sunset views this side of the city.

Meanwhile a few blocks away on the corner of Rivonia Road and Maude Street yet another massive lifestyle and retail development The Marc opened in August with celebrity chef David Higgs’ Italian restaurant Saint Pazzo Italiano a major draw (see page 21). Also on Maude Street, is The Bull Run steakhouse, a buzzy lunch destination particularly on Fridays when Sandton's office crowd lingers (see page 25) and the cheerful Ribs and Burgers, a tasty spot for wholesome 'fast food' at prices not usually seen in Sandton.

30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE BIG MOUTH Slick Art Deco interiors with an Asian-inspired seafood menu and excellent sushi.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, 5th St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 63 293 8869, thebigmouth.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00– 22:00. RRR. B­L THE COURSE AT SLOW IN THE CITY Beautifully designed restaurant and café sitting diagonally opposite the Sandton Gautrain Station with a wideranging menu and premium whiskies.QM‑9, Level R1, Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel, Cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 87 057 7482, slow.co.za.

Open 07:00–21:00, Sat 08:30–21:00. Closed Sun. RRR. U­BSL­W THE GRILLHOUSE SANDTON A pricey steakhouse popular with Sandton’s corporate crowd. The huge terrace offers panoramic views of Sandton’s sunset.QL‑9, 11 Alice Lane, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 6132, thegrillhouse.co.za/grillhousesandton. Open 12:00–22:00. RRR. U­B­E­L NIKOS COALGRILL GREEK A good al fresco lunchtime bet for tasty and filling Greek fare, including great souvlaki.QL‑9, Cnr 5th St and Alice Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 0938, nikosgreek. co.za. Open 11:30–21:30, Sun 11:30–20:00. RR. T­UBSL­W RIBS AND BURGERS NEW Value-for-money gourmet burgers and lip-smacking ribs.

The milkshakes here are also top rate.QM‑8, Cnr Maude St and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 10 524 6292, ribsandburgers.com/za. Open 11:00–22:00, Mon–Wed 11:00–21:00. R. T­BLW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Epicure, Morningside

Where to Eat

Where to Eat A five-minute drive or tuk-tuk ride from Sandton Central’s glitzy skyscrapers, the neighbourhing suburb of Parkmore presents a world of tastes along a scruffy low-rise strip of independent restaurants lined up along 11th Street facing the Benmore Gardens shopping mall. Favourites include the authentic family-run Korean restaurant Banchan and the chic cocktail bar Parliament (see page 40) hidden away on Victoria Street. On the other side of the vast mall is the quiet suburb of Morningside, largely defined by its sprawling gated complexes and upscale shopping malls.

In Morningside look out for Belgian-Burundian chef Coco Reinarhz's glamorous Epicure known for its contemporary African flavours (see page 24).

From here the immense northern suburbs of the city such as Rivonia, Bryanston and Fourways, (which confusingly are all broadly referred to as Sandton), spread for several kilometres. You’ll know this part of the city by its abundance of faux-Tuscan security suburbs, outdoor-lifestyle centres, plant nurseries, gated communities, golfing estates and the huge Montecasino entertainment complex. Hidden away among the many strip malls and chain restaurants that punctuate the suburban sprawl you can find some real gems. Particularly notable is the renowned steakhouse Wombles, trendy Gemelli restaurant and bar, and celebrated young South African fine dining chef Wandile Mabaso’s SA Culinary Club (see opposite).

BANCHAN An unassuming family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes as well as authentic Korean barbecue and traditional drinks like soju.

QL‑8, Cnr 10th St and Elizabeth St, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269. Open 11:30–14:40 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 11:30–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. L GEMELLI CUCINA BAR The setting is an elegant loft-style space with a marble bar.

The atmosphere and crowd are utterly vibrant and cosmopolitan, and there are no quiet spots to be had. Expect familiar Italian dishes served with contemporary flair and beautifully plated.QPosthouse Link Centre, Cnr Main Rd and Posthouse St, Bryanston, tel. +27 10 591 4333, gemellirestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Mon, Tue 12:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–21:30 (note kitchen is closed 15:30–17:30). Corkage R200, Bubbly R400. RRR. B­S­ L­W WOMBLES Memorable steakhouse with a refined and genteel atmosphere reminiscent of a luxury safari lodge, that makes eating an occasion by getting the basics right – excellent food, service and ambience.QHobart Grove Shopping Centre, 88 Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 880 2470/ or +27 11 463 8558, wombles.co.za. Open 12:00–14:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sat 18:00–21:30. Last orders 21:00 (last drinks/dessert orders 23:30). Closed Sun. RRR. U­B­I­L­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

THE SA CULINARY CLUB From the car park, The SA Culinary Club doesn’t give much away. Hidden at the end of the upper level of Bryanston’s Hobart Grove shopping centre, it’s a relatively small and unassuming location to find a restaurant run by one of South Africa’s most exciting young culinary stars, Wandile Mabaso.

From Wednesday to Sunday The SA Culinary Club opens its doors for multi-course fine dining experiences (bookings only) that come under a variety of themes including a fun cook-and-dine experience where there’s the chance to learn how to plate like a Michelin-star pro alongside Mabaso and his team.

No two menus are ever the same with Mabaso determined to continually push himself to conjure up new dishes week in and week out. Mabaso is also fiercely passionate about finding the very best possible ingredients to use in his creations. To that end a menu might suddenly change entirely to accommodate new ingredients discovered at a market in Chinatown or the sudden availability of hard-to-find foods such as Russian caviar or fresh Mozambican langoustines.

The SA Culinary Club’s fish is sourced through Abalobi, an innovative South African ‘hook to cook’ foundation that endeavours to bring the catch of small scale fishermen directly to restaurant kitchens across the country. Each fish comes with its own unique QR code that when scanned introduces the fisherman who caught the fish and the location of the catch.

After a decade spent working in top kitchens overseas Mabaso returned to South Africa in 2017 determined to shake up the local fine dining scene.

"I'm tired of seeing dishes that have smoke coming out of them. That’s what we used to do in Europe four years ago! If we want our (South African) cuisine to be recognised globally, we need to stop replicating trends and create our own. It’s not just about the technique and what it looks like, there’s art in food. It is 'soulful'."

QThe SA Culinary Club, Hobart Grove, Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 818 2338, email info@saculinaryclub.com or book online at saculinaryclub.com.

Banchan in Parkmore

THE NORTHERN SUBURBS

February – April 2019

31

DOWNTOWN DINING GUIDE Downtown Joburg's two hippest districts Braamfontein and Maboneng offer some of Joburg's best café culture and most vibrant street life as well as a multicultural mix of cuisines from around the world.

A day (or night) spent exploring Braamfontein’s lively streets is one of the best ways to get a taste for downtown Joburg’s fast-paced urban regeneration and the creative and ambitious energy that is transforming this city. Popular with students and academics (the huge University of the Witwatersrand is right on its doorstep), as well as NGOs and those working in the creative industries, there’s a vibrant café culture. On the other side of town the fashionable Maboneng is also home to a cosmopolitan mix of artists and young entrepreneurs and offers an equally enticing street life and dozens of quirky restaurants, particularly along the main thoroughfare Fox Street.

BRAAMFONTEIN For breakfast and coffee with a view of the busy streets The Grove, a sunny piazza on Melle Street (also one of the stops on the City Sightseeing bus) is a good place to head.

Start the day with an authentic Turkish breakfast at Galata Bakery or grab a coffee or craft ice tea at Doubleshot Coffee and Tea nearby. For lunch or dinner try the pizza at the always-buzzing 86 Public pizzeria, a popular spot to start a Braamfontein night out. A short walk up Juta Street, the old-fashioned Black Forest Bakery is another popular spot for a takeaway breakfast of German doughnuts and strong coffee.

One block away, the corner of De Beer and Juta Streets is an undisputed hub of Joburg’s alternative hipster scene, famous for the weekly rooftop Neighbourgoods Market on Saturdays (09:00–15:00) where you can spend the afternoon enjoying gourmet burgers, paella, dim sum and other tasty street food offerings washed down with copious amounts of craft beer and live music.

For a light lunch or an early breakfast grab a stool at Post 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

with its street views and watch Braamfontein's hipster fashion parade, or get your coffee to go at the uber-cool coffee bar Father Coffee.

Closer to the university campus look out for great value cafés like WAM Café at the Wits Art Museum and, one block away on a quiet side street, the cute streetside eatery Love Food. The weekday harvest table lunches are justifiably famous, so arrive early (served from 11:30) to enjoy an Ottolenghi-style feast of interesting salads and daily dishes all priced by weight.

With an abundance of students it’s no surprise that Braamfontein is awash with fast food restaurants.

For the best Indian food at budget-friendly prices drop into R Jana's to snack on samoosas or enjoy one of the day's curries or biriyanis. This simple family-run Indian diner is also the place to try one of South Africa's most iconic dishes, the bunny chow, a hollowed out half loaf of bread filled with curry that traces its origins to Durban's Indian community.

Meanwhile, if you need to soak up a hangover with the cheapest and most filling street food, Fateema's at 16 Biccard Street is a local institution serving up classic South African junk food like slap chips and dagwood (essentially a huge multi-layered sandwich). Also look out for popular South African chains Nandos for the best spicy peri peri chicken, and RocoGo for made-to-order smashburgers.

Foremost among Braamfontein’s coolest places to eat out at night is The Artivist, a bar, art gallery and restaurant launched by local DJs Kenzhero and Bradley Williams. Set around a statement grey marble bar which is beneath a more discrete mezzanine (ideal for private parties), the floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto hip Reserve Street.

Enjoy a sophisticated contemporary menu that includes wood-fired meat dishes, excellent salads and healthy bowls. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Eat Your Heart Out, Maboneng. Photo by Rich T, Shutterstock.com

Where to Eat

Where to Eat BRAAMFONTEIN DIRECTORY 86 PUBLIC Cosy student-filled pizza joint offering crusty pizza with lots of toppings. Jugs of cocktails are order of the day here.

QC‑3, The Grove, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 3055, 86public.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–23:30. BW THE ARTIVIST A cool bistro, bar and art gallery, this is the downtown restaurant of choice for Joburg's creative crowd.QC‑3, 7 Reserve St, Braamfontein. Open 11:00–22:30, Mon 11:00–16:00. Closed Sun.­E BLACK FOREST BAKERY The counter at this busy traditional German bakery has been staffed by the indomitable Maisie for more than 35 years. Selling an array of authentic German baked goods there's only two tables, so plan on takeout.QC‑3, 102 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0065, blackforestbakery.co.za. Open 07:00–16:30, Sat 06:00– 12:30. Closed Sun. S GALATA Charming Turkish bakery and café named after an ancient Istanbul neighbourhood offering authentic cuisine at student-friendly prices. Try the excellent value traditional Turkish breakfast.QC‑3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 64 152 0528, galatabakery.co.za. Open 07:00– 20:00. SB­W LOVE FOOD A cute streetside eatery with a sumptuous daily harvest table of freshly-made salads and meat, fish or chicken dishes. Arrive early for the best selection of the day's specials.QC‑2, 4 Ameshoff St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 83 602 6511, lovefoodkitchen.com. Open 06:30–15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. SB­6

MABONENG One of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world (according to Forbes magazine), Maboneng was transformed from an industrial and factory district to a hip lifestyle playground less than a decade ago.

The neighbourhood’s main street is Fox Street, home to Maboneng’s pioneer development Arts on Main and an eclectic selection of bars, cafés and restaurants. The pulse of Maboneng, every Sunday Market on Main takes over Arts on Main, transforming its lower level to a sprawling food market with stalls selling everything from Afro-fusion sushi to delicate pastries made by budding chefs from the nearby Johannesburg Culinary and Pastry School.

Maboneng has attracted a multicultural group of restaurateurs, many of whom have grown their businesses from market stalls to fully fledged restaurants.

Along Fox Street you’ll find everything from Mexican tacos at Mama Mexicana in the Arts on Main building to Middle Eastern café fare at Eat Your Heart Out, traditional Ethiopian injera platters at Little Addis, the best pizzas at Ravioli and Argentine steaks at Che Argentine Grill.

There’s also plenty of local flavours on the menus too. Popular South African choices include the friendly café-bar Love Revo with its sunny roof deck, the neat upcycled shipping container braai stand Sharp! Braai Corner and the always bustling café-bar Pata Pata and its sister venue AfroBru which doubles up as a concert venue at weekends.

R JANA'S Friendly family-run takeaway serving up classic Durbanstyle Indian food.Q87 De Korte St, Braamfontein. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. Closed Sun. S WAM CAFÉ Cheap and cheerful canteen-style café popular with students and adjoining the excellent Wits Art Museum.

QC‑3, Wits Art Museum, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1723, wits.ac.za/ wam. Open 09:30–16:30, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun.­ facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Post, Braamfontein. Photo by SA Tourism

POST In the heart of hipster Braamfontein complete with bearded baristas, there's a counter with a street view, vinyl on the turntable and a cool courtyard in the back.QC‑3, 70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl. tumblr.com. Open 06:30–16:00, Sat, public holidays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. S B­W

February – April 2019

33

Art City

T H E C A P I TA L OF GRAFFITI

Clockwise from left: mural by Adnate (photo by City of Gold); mural by Herakut (photo by Jonathan Giliam), street art in Alexandra on Maboneng Township Arts Experience (photo by Vivienne Murray for JoziWalks); mural Mr Slipperz; colourful Alexandra street art (photo by Vivienne Murray for JoziWalks); Giggling Hyena mural by Malik.

Arguably the street art capital of sub-Saharan Africa, Joburg has a thriving graffiti art culture with bold new murals and artworks by local and international artists going up on the city’s walls almost every other day, bringing colour to Joburg's busy streets.

34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

While there are those who dismiss graffiti as a public blight, in Joburg the spread of graffiti has played a role in the city’s upliftment. Particularly in downtown neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Newtown and Maboneng the wall paintings by local and international artists enliven spaces, create reasons to pause along busy streets and add colour to the concrete city scape. The murals also serve the purpose of creating beauty amid the billboards and advertising hoardings that blare commercial messages at passersby.

In the downtown neighbourhood of Newtown, an abundance of large open walls have made the area the heart of Joburg’s graffiti art scene.

A hot spot is the area beneath the M1 highway and the adjoining streets Gwigwi Mrwebi and Pim which are always in a state of change with new murals cropping up all the time covering long stretches and snaking their way around the pillars holding up the motorway above.

Another local street art hub is Braamfontein, a busy student neighbourhood and home to one of South Africa's premier tertiary institutions, the University of the Witwatersrand. This is a great place to take yourself on a self-guided street art exploration. Start your walk from Grayscale Gallery (19 Henri Street), Joburg’s dedicated street art gallery and spray paint retailer. Grayscale is owned by one of the city's most prominent graffiti artists, Rasty, who founded the annual City of Gold Urban Arts Festival. He is also a top tattoo artist. From Grayscale take a right onto Eendracht johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Street for artworks by the British graffiti artist Solo One, Spanish illustrator and street artist Isaac Malakkai and South African legendary graffiti artist Falko. Falko's most recent work has seen herds of playful and colourful elephants making their way across this city and other parts of the world. Follow the route down De Korte Street, turning onto Melle Street to gaze up at artist Hannelie Coetzee’s Nzunza, a 10-storey portrait on the side of a Braamfontein tower block made from more than 2000 ceramic plates.

The work is inspired by the history and culture of the Ndzundza (or Nzunza) Ndebele people.

Follow Melle Street down to Juta Street making a stop at The Grove square to explore the Braamfontein alleyways that connect the square with neighbouring streets.

One block over at the corner of Juta and De Beer Streets, you'll find American street artist Shepard Fairey's 200-metre high Mandela mural The Purple Shall Govern, painted in tribute to South Africa's Purple Rain protest. In 1989 a peaceful protest in downtown Cape Town saw antiapartheid protesters come up against riot police armed with a water cannon filled with purple paint. The protestors managed to take control of the cannon and used it to fire purple paint onto the police and in the following days graffiti tags spread across the city declaring ‘The Purple Shall Govern’.

End your Braamfontein street art walk at Constitution Hill where a bold collection of new murals include Nard Star’s colourful dedication to South African female anti-apartheid activists and Imraan Christian’s incredible photo-realistic murals that present ordinary and extraorfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

dinary scenes inspired by South African people and places.

On the eastern side of the city the neighbourhood of Maboneng has a wealth of artworks. These include Ricky Lee Gordon’s (aka Freddy Sam) 40-metre-high mural of Nelson Mandela (cnr Staib St and Beacon Rd, Maboneng) completed shortly after Mandela’s death. It is based on an iconic photograph of a young Mandela boxing on a city rooftop, taken by Drum magazine photographer Bob Gosani in the 1950s. (The same photo inspired a magnificent steel sculpture by Marco Cianfanelli in Ferreirasdorp).

On nearby Van Beek Street are fine artist Nelson Makamo’s distinctive brightly coloured portraits of local children and there is an ever-changing collection of murals that cover the walls leading along Maboneng’s main drag Fox Street.

While many murals are easy to discover on your own, the best way to explore Joburg’s exciting street art scene is with a specialised guided tour. We recommend Past Experiences (tel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za), Jozy Triangel Tours (tel. +27 61 040 7765, jozytriangel.co.za) or Maboneng-based MainStreetWalks (tel. + 27 11 614 0163, mainstreetwalks.co.za).

Joburg's street art scene is not restricted to the city. To see how graffiti and street art are transforming the streets of Alexandra, Joburg's oldest and most densely populated township, join Maboneng Township Arts Experience (+27 21 824 1773, maboneng.com) on one of their unique tours that visit local homes transformed into art galleries, and gritty streets and backyards that have been given a colourful makeover with the help of local street artists.

February – April 2019

35

Cycling in Maboneng. Photo by Vanessa Bentley for Shutterstock.com

Cycling Joburg

WHEEL CITY LIFE From Joburg's incredible city architecture to its hidden coffee houses and wild nature trails, it's worth joining a cycling tour or renting a bike to get the best views.

When you think about navigating and exploring Joburg, cycling may not be the first mode of transportation that springs to mind. Traffic congestion (or least a local habit to constantly complain about it) reveals Joburg to be a carobsessed metropolis. An initiative by the former city administration to encourage commuter cycling by building dedicated bike lanes collapsed shortly after it was set up, with the lanes becoming more popular with impatient taxi drivers. Yet in spite of this, a growing number of passionate Joburgers are reframing the narrative around cycling in the city, forming groups who cycle en masse and launching cycling tours of the city that showcase the accessibility and unique vantage point of life on a bike.

Cycling fans visiting Joburg would be remiss not to hop on two wheels and join one of the many dynamic group rides or hire a bike and take a spin through Joburg’s parks and surrounding nature reserves.

Township tourism pioneers Lebo Malepa of Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers and Jeffrey Mulaudzi of Buvhi Tours in Alexandra have established daily bicycle tours through Joburg’s most vibrant townships, weaving between sites of historical importance and offering opportunities to interact with locals in a way that helps bring visitors into the community that is authentic and mutually beneficial.

Meanwhile in the heart of the inner city, cycling is one of the most fun ways to see up close some of the city’s most buzzed-about neighborhoods, whether by joining the East City Cycle Tour from Curiocity Hostel in Maboneng or sipping your way through Joburg’s best indepen36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

dent coffee shops on a downtown cycling tour with Kennedy Tembo’s Microadventure Tours.

Joburg and its surrounds also offers plenty of open spaces for road and mountain biking, from the well-maintained tar roads that meander through the rolling grasslands of the UNESCO World Heritage Site the Cradle of Humankind to the tree-lined Braamfontein Spruit that passes through Joburg’s older suburbs and sprawling park areas.

Exploring Joburg on two wheels is immersive, social and a unique way to experience the city – just make sure to wear comfy shoes, slather on sunscreen, keep your cellphone and other valuables out of sight and bring along water.

SOCIAL RIDES Joining one of the city’s many social bike riding clubs can be a great way to meet like-minded fans of life on two wheels. Inspired by other mass cycling movements around the world Critical Mass is one of Joburg’s longest running social rides. On the last Friday of every month cyclists meet up decked out in bright costumes to take over the night time streets. The 20km route through the City Centre starts outside Kitchener's in Braamfontein (cnr Juta and De Beer Sts) at 18:00 for 19:00. Find out more at jhb. criticalmass.co.za.

Other social bike riding crews to look out for include The Whippet Cycling Co who organise a monthly social group ride that starts at Victoria Yards in east Joburg on the first Sunday of the month passing through lesser-known johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

historic suburbs Bezuidenhout Valley and Kensington. They also organise the occasional cheeky game of ‘Bike Polo’ in Brixton (follow The Whippet Cycling Co on Instagram for the latest updates). iNdwangu Rides, based in Maboneng, is another interesting cycling crew to keep your eye on.

Conceived by fashion entrepreneur, stylist and blogger Bobo Vusumuzi Ndima (aka @bobthestylist), the iNdwangu Rides are a meetup of the stylish set, who don exquisitely tailored suits with tweed flat caps or wool fedoras, and take a leisurely ride through the streets of Maboneng as an expression of individuality and style. The ride usually sets off from outside the Love Revo bistro from where it is possible to rent fixie bikes. You can find out when the next ride is by following them on Instagram at @iNdwanguRides.

BIKE RENTAL A handful of the bike repair shops around Joburg have bikes and helmets available for daily or hourly hire and are also generally good places to get advice on easily navigable routes and safe areas to cycle through. Some even offer lessons for the novice cyclist. Bike rental is still a fairly new phenomenon in Joburg and most places do not have a huge number of bikes on offer, so it pays to call ahead to book and ensure a bike is available.

HUNTER CYCLING Melville’s Hunter Cycling is a bike repair shop that specialises in custom hardware. They are also one of the rare spots in Joburg where you can rent road or mountain bikes. For beginners, Hunter Cycling also offers one-on-one instruction with one of their passionate specialists.Q61 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 76 183 0949, huntercycling.co.za. Bike rental from R200 per day.

TOWNSHIP BICYCLE TOURS LEBO'S SOWETO BACKPACKERS BICYCLE TOUR Lebo Malepa’s lively backpackers in Orlando West, Soweto offers an ever expanding choice of excellent tours of Soweto by foot, tuk tuk or bicycle. The idea of touring the township by bike has taken off across South Africa, although it was Lebo who first pioneered the township cycling experience when he began borrowing bikes from locals to take foreign visitors out to see the sights of Soweto. Fast forward more than a decade and Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers now owns more than 100 bicycles and employs dozens of staff.

There’s a choice of different rides ranging from two-hour experiences to a full day tour (bear in mind you need to be moderately fit to tackle a full day). Presenting an authentic and richly nuanced look at Sowetan life and history, the tour goes far beyond the usual generic Mandela-themed sites visiting other areas of historical significance such as the former migrant workers’ hostels and areas linked to the Apartheid policy of forced removals like Meadowlands. The tours also include stops to try local street food to keep your energy up, before ending back in the park in front of Lebo’s Backpackers for drinks and a delicious home-cooked lunch at Lebo’s Outdoor restaurant.

COST: R515 p.p. for 2 hours, R620 p.p. for 4 hours, R795 p.p. for 8 hours, including bike and helmet hire. Transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged.

BOOKING: Tours start at Lebo's Soweto Backpackers, 10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, Soweto. Call +27 11 936 3444, email lebo@sowetobackpackers.com or book online at sowetobackpackers.com.

CURIOCITY HOSTEL In addition to its popular weekend East City Cycle Tour (see p. 38), Curiocity Hostel in Maboneng has a selection of road bikes available for rental. QG-5, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocity.africa/jhb. Bike rental R50 per hour.

SPROCKET & JACK A bespoke cycle assembly and repair shop that has a limited selection of mountain bikes available for hire. The location on the Braamfontein Spruit is especially convenient for exploring the nearby MTB trails.Q49 Hillcrest Ave, Blairgowrie, tel. +27 87 150 8495, sprocketandjack.co.za.

Bike rental R300 for half a day. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Bicycles in Maboneng. Photo by SA Tourism

THE BICYCLE This small bicycle servicing shop in Brixton based out of Breezeblock Café believes in the power of cycling to boost an individual’s self-confidence and offers lessons to absolute beginners. The Bicycle also hires out bikes for short and long-term use, plus helmets and locks and supplies cycle route maps.Q29 Chiswick St, Brixton, tel. +27 76 705 3992, thebicycle.co.za. Bike rental from R150 for a half day and R200 for a full day.

February – April 2019

37

Cycling Joburg BUVHI TOURS Alexandra is Joburg’s oldest township and for many tourists one of its least known. Just five kilometres from Sandton Central, the gleaming towers of the financial district are clearly visible from the streets of 'Alex' and a Gautrain station links the newer areas of the township to South Africa’s richest square mile. Alex resident and cycling fanatic Jeffrey Mulaudzi started Buvhi Tours to encourage visitors to explore his home township from a more intimate vantage point and to learn about its unique history. Collecting guests from the Marlboro Gautrain station Jeff leads two and four-hour bike tours (maximum eight riders) every day at 09:30 and 13:30 that followa trail through Alex’s local heritage sites. Stops include Nelson Mandela’s first Joburg home (referred to in the opening chapters of Long Walk To Freedom) as well as visits to a local shebeen where there’s the opportunity to taste authentic South African cuisine.

COST: R550 p.p. for 2 hours, R650 p.p. for 4 hours, including bike and helmet hire.

BOOKING: Contact Buvhi Tours at tel. +27 71 279 3654, jeff@buvhi.co.za or book online at alexandratours.co.za.

JOBURG BIKE TOURS MICROADVENTURE TOURS Kennedy Tembo is the ambassador of adventure in Joburg.

He founded Microadventure Tours in 2017 to connect Joburgers with energetic experiences outside of their comfort zone that are right in their backyard. Kennedy leads half-day and full-day guided rides around the historical sites of the Joburg City Centre and a 16km cycling tour of the scenic Cradle of Humankind which includes a visit to the museums at Maropeng. He also runs regular specialty rides, such as the Jozi Coffee Cycle Tour – a coffee-themed bike ride through downtown Joburg that pit-stops at five independent coffee shops and several architectural marvels. Bikes and helmets are provided.

COST: R350 p.p. for the Jozi Coffee Cycle Tour, including bike and helmet hire.

BOOKING: Contact Kennedy Tembo at Microadventure Tours to organise a tour, tel. +27 083 772 4678, info@microadventuretours.co.za, microadventuretours.co.za LUCILLE DAVIE’S JOZI TOURS & TALES Veteran South African journalist Lucille Davie offers a variety of engaging tour experiences that are richly imbued with her intimate knowledge of the history of Joburg and its most famous residents. For an especially interactive history lesson, join Lucille on her 4-hour mountain bike tour along 25km of the Braamfontein Spruit. The route covers some of Joburg’s most interesting older suburbs, following a path from Blairgowrie in the north through the beautiful Delta Park and the pretty suburb of Linden and onwards through Albert’s Farm and Sophiatown with a rest on the return journey, stopping at Westpark Cemetery. Along the way Lucille shares her vast knowledge of the places that hold Joburg’s most colourful stories and the people who have walked its streets. Lucille’s tours are held monthly depending on demand and you will need to bring your own mountain bike 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CYCLING IN THE CRADLE Just beyond the Joburg city limits the UNESCO World Heritage Site The Cradle of Humankind (roughly 40 minutes drive north of Sandton) has become a top destination for cycling aficionados and on any given weekend you’ll find herds of cyclists crisscrossing the area’s scenic cycling routes. With access to a mountain bike you can take yourself for a self-guided road bike tour. The 30km Cradle Route loop which follows specially designated 2m-wide bike lanes along tarred country roads is a good place to start. Note that some sections of the Cradle Route are remote, so it is recommended not to bike alone. Alternatively join Microadventure Tours guided 16km group road bike ride which takes in the Rhino and Lion Park, Sterkfontein Caves and Kromdraai mine stope and includes mountain bike rental. with you (see our rental suggestions for details).

COST: R200 p.p.

BOOKING: Contact Lucille Davie to organise a tour, lucilledavie@gmail.com, lucilledavie.co.za/jozi-tours EAST CITY CYCLE TOUR WITH CURIOCITY HOSTEL As one of Joburg’s coolest and most innovative backpacker hostels that prides itself on finding ways to take guests out of their rooms and into the energetic, colourful streets of the city, of course it comes as no surprise that Curiocity Hostel runs an immersive and fun social bike ride through the Maboneng precinct and surrounding areas. On Saturdays and Sundays from 15:00-17:00 the East City Cycle Tour leaves from outside the backpackers on Fox Street in Maboneng, rolling past the incredible collection of graffiti and street art that the neighbourhood is famous for, and continues on towards the historic suburbs of Jeppestown, Doornfontein and Troyeville. Led by knowledgeable local guides the tours are infused with both historical and cultural insights on the City of Gold.

COST: R300 p.p. including bike and helmet hire.

BOOKING: Rent bikes or book a tour through the reception desk at Curiocity, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, stay@curiocityjoburg.com, curiocity.africa/jhb.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Cocktails at Parliament, Parkmore

Nightlife

J O B U R G ’ S C R A F T C O C K TA I L R E V O L U T I O N There’s never been a better time to be a barfly in Joburg. Forget South Africa’s excellent wines and its world-class craft beer scene, craft spirits are the new ‘in’ thing and there are some amazing tastes waiting to be discovered as Joburg’s stock of cocktail bars led by top mixologists steadily grows.

With luxurious vineyards spilling out across the Western Cape and producing internationally recognized labels, South Africa has long been synonymous with wine. For many visitors, a holiday in South Africa is not complete without an afternoon spent sipping a homegrown Pinotage on a sunny terrace or wine farm. But times are changing and tastes evolving.

South Africans’ thirst for something unique to sip, combined with an abundance of native botanicals prime for spirit-making and the entrepreneurial attitude of a handful of upstart local makers has provided the supplyand-demand ecosystem for a local craft spirits industry to thrive. Seemingly overnight, a plethora of new craft distilleries have popped up, most notably when it comes to gin, with an estimated 160 different local labels now on the market! While the premium small-batch gin industry has its roots in the Western Cape winelands, where Jorgensen’s Gin paved the way for private distilling in the 1990s and Inverroche Distillery first infused the flavours of wild Cape fynbos alongside the required juniper, Joburg is making a name for itself in the craft gin game.

Downtown Joburg, with its abundance of vacant light industrial factory spaces, has become home to several craft gin labels in recent years that are pioneering spiritmaking technique and innovating with exciting flavour profiles, such as The Ginologist in 1 Fox Precinct in historic Ferreirasdorp and the inner-city’s first craft gin distiller Time Anchor Distillery in trendy Maboneng. Meanwhile just 45 minutes outside of Joburg, Flowstone Gin is the first craft label in South Africa to infuse its gin with wild botanicals harvested from the UNESCO World Heritage site the Cradle of Humankind.

And the South African craft movement doesn’t end facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

with gin. Look out for the rise of Leonista, a mezcal-like spirit made from agave harvested entirely in the Karoo and the new darling of the artisanal spirits world, craft rum.

From Tapanga Rum, who brew their amber spirit with sugarcane grown in KwaZulu-Natal, to the award-winning Copeland Rum from Kommetjie in the Western Cape, there’s plenty of interesting brands entering the market.

Buoyed by the renaissance in local craft spirit-making, expertly mixed artisanal cocktails are the new popular drink among Joburg’s social set. The city’s best bartenders are playing around with unusual flavours and remixing classic bases with craft spirits, taking inspiration from the seasons, local ingredients and South African history and culture to pour artisanal cocktails. Innovative spots include the African-ingredient centric Mootee in Melville and the secretive speakeasy Sin + Tax in Rosebank to name just a few trailblazing cocktail bars.

If you’re more of a homebody or love to host, you can mix your own artisan-style cocktails by picking up a bottle of locally distilled gin or tequila at one of Joburg’s boutique liquor stores, such as Craft Cartel in Illovo (L-11, Illovo Post Office Centre, 33 Rudd Rd, tel. +27 11 268 6072) or Dry Dock in Parkhurst (J-11, 37 4th Ave, tel. +27 11 880 9396). Or stop by one of Joburg’s many fun outdoor popup markets like Neighbourgoods in Braamfontein on Saturdays or Market on Main in Maboneng on Sundays to sip and sample a craft cocktail while you shop, then choose your favourite flavour and add it to your bar cart at home.

The Kamers/Makers Joburg craft fair in Sandton in April (26.04–01.05, kamersvol.co.za) also heroes handmade design and features several artisanal food and drink stands.

Find our roundup of some of Joburg’s coolest cocktail bars on the next page.

February – April 2019

39

Mootee, Melville

Nightlife

COCKTAIL BARS BLANK BAR This cute little pop-up bar on Parkhurst’s chic high street 4th Avenue operates as a blank space for artisanal local drinks labels. Every new edition of the bar lasts one month and showcases a different spirit and the interiors are completely redone each time to reflect a new theme associated with the drinks on offer.QJ‑12, Cnr 4th Ave and 12th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 566 6877, blankbar.co.za.

Open 12:00–23:00, Closed Mon, Tue. B BLIND TIGER CAFÉ Step through the door on Parkview’s village-like high street into this bar that conjures the glamorous and swinging 1920s with excellent cocktails inspired by Fitzgerald’s agedefining novel The Great Gatsby. Owner and head barman Parkview resident Roman Slepica launched Maboneng’s popular Lenin’s Vodka Bar, before deciding to open up shop closer to home and really knows a thing or two when it comes to excellent spirits. A popular hangout in an otherwise low-key suburb this is very much a locals place (in the best possible way).Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 76 030 4200, blindtiger.co.za. Open 15:00–24:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 09:00–24:00. Closed Sun. ­U­B­W J RABBIT TEQUILERIA NEW At Joburg’s newest speakeasy-style bar the most notable novelties are a devotion to tequila and a secret entrance hidden inside the CML (Cartel Money Laundry) laundromat downstairs. If you thought tequila wasn’t your thing then J Rabbit’s is ready to give you a valuable education on just how good tequila can be, boasting the biggest selection of premium and craft tequilas and mezcal in South Africa. If you enjoy rum there’s also a craft rum bar on the balcony.QL‑11, Cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd, Illovo. Open 12:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–01:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. B 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MIX COCKTAIL BAR Dress to impress and join the sophisticated set at this sexy cocktail lounge, housed in what is by day a private members’ club. The meticulously constructed menu is inspired by historical references as well as the high-end contemporary artworks on display. The views are fabulous, and the bespoke furniture and interiors ooze contemporary luxury.

QK‑12, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, mixbar.co.za. Open 16:00 until late. Closed Sun. B­W MOOTEE At the counter in this dimly-lit apothecary meets traditional medicine themed bar, you’ll be handed an illustrated menu with signature cocktails outlined according to flavour notes and ‘intentions’ rather than concrete ingredients. You can also opt to choose according to the folk tales which accompany each ‘potion’. Whichever way you navigate the menu, the final result is always something memorable.Q78a 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 10 900 1399, mootee.co.za. Open Tue 16:00–23:00, Wed–Thu 16:00–24:00, Fri 16:00–02:00, Sat 12:00–02:00, Sun 12:00–23:00. Closed Mon. B PARLIAMENT A refreshing space among Sandton’s shiny high-rises, Parliament is an ideal setup for after work drinks with a balcony overlooking Parkmore's quirky 11th Street. In an upmarket yet relaxed atmosphere, you’ll find master mixologist Evert de Jong behind the bar whipping up adventurous seasonal cocktails with unusual local craft spirits. It’s not the easiest place to find (look for the sign next to the Thief restaurant) and not a late-night kind of place, which is for the best considering the steep spiral staircase you have to navigate to get up there.QL‑8, Cnr Victoria Ave and 11th St, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 1467, parliamentrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Mon 16:00–23:00. Closed Sun. B­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife PRE VIEW Adjoining the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff’s intimate fine dining restaurant View, Pre View is a more ‘casual’ cocktail and tapas small plates bar that offers supreme views over Joburg’s urban forest. The regularly changing cocktail menu is inspired both by the bar’s famous vistas (try the signature The View Above the clouds, a combination of whisky, Caperitif, grapefruit and kombucha) and by the fresh contemporary cuisine served at the restaurant.

QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6180, viewrestaurant.co.za.

Open 18:00–21:30. Closed Sun, Mon. U­B­E­L­W SIN + TAX For some, having to supply a password to enter through a secret door may seem the peak of pretension, but this bar is still wholeheartedly dedicated to the speakeasy theme and the cocktails are easily among the best in the city (even David Beckham has been here for drinks). Facing onto the street there’s a more casual adjoining bar, Speak No Evil, a fun place to hang out while you figure out how to get in.QK‑12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 64 201 8310, sintaxbar.com. Open 18:00–01:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. B­L TESTAMENT Launched by the curators of the edgy Kalashnikovv art gallery next door, this slick minimalist cocktail bar celebrates ‘creativity as religion’ with thoughts about religion, life, death and the cult of social media reflected in a series of bold installations. The carefully crafted cocktails are made with premium spirits and the pews usually occupied by the Joburg art scene’s who’s who.QC‑3, 68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 83 781 7406. Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00– 24:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. W THE LITTLE FOX NEW If gin is your thing then what better place to enjoy it than at a cocktail bar located inside a gin distillery? Headed by star mixologist Gareth Wainwright, in partnership with the Ginologist craft distillery, the bar is located inside a century-old warehouse in the regenerated 1 Fox precinct.

The innovative and creative menu also showcases other craft spirits such as rum and mezcal and the witty bartenders are both extremely knowledgable and downright fun.

QC‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

Open 16:00–02:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

Closed Mon. B­L

#MYJOBURG J'SOMETHING JOAO DA FONSECA, best known by his stage name J’Something, is the frontman of soulful South African house band Mi Casa as well as a restaurateur and judge on the local cooking show My Kitchen Rules South Africa. In the summer of 2018, J’Something partnered with Joburg’s Ginologist distillery to create his own craft gin range Jin Gin. There are three Jins; the rooibos, orange and honey (a flavour profile inspired by his pre-show ritual drink of rooibos and honey), an unusual tomato and peppadew gin, and the sweet and savoury olive and honey (all representing his two loves – cooking and music). You can find J'Something’s Jin Gin at The Little Fox bar at 1 Fox Precinct.

Favourite suburb? Definitely Parkview. It’s home. It’s my peace and sanity.

Favourite place to relax in the city? I dig going to Pablo Eggs Go Bar to have chilled breakfast and coffee.

Favourite after-work hangout? My spot at home is the best. I don't go out really. At home I have gin and tonic, my family and friends.

The most underrated Joburg experience? The Sci Bono Discovery Centre in Newtown.

Don't leave Joburg without seeing? Definitely Soweto is a must visit. Marble restaurant is a great restaurant for a special night out – I love the food and the ambience. Lastly I would go to Braamfontein to see the youth and the creativeness that’s going on there.

Number one tip to first-time Joburg visitors? Research places [before going] and ask people where you should and shouldn't go. It’s important.

Best thing about Joburg: The energy and the fact that everyone always has a plan or an opportunity. I thrive under that.

Worst thing about Joburg: The lack of walking we do.

Three words that describe the city? Hustle, energy, and opportunity.

TONIC A welcoming and unpretentious spot in Linden, on the menu is one of the biggest selections of craft gins (and tonics) in town. The signature G&T combinations are racy and fun such as the Mother Fluffer, a showy drink of gin, tonic, candy floss and toasted marshmallow. This one is more of a novelty but you’ll look like you are having fun drinking it.Q32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 87 238 4623.

Open 17:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00– 16:00. Closed Mon. ­U­B­E­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

41

Nightlife

San Deck, Sandton Sun, Sandton Central

KITCHENER’S CARVERY BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something preten­tious. By day it’s a quiet pub and by night its packed to the rafters with DJs spinning soul, funk and electro.

Cover charges apply after 19:00 Wed–Sat.QC‑3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–02:00. B­E

.

BARS AND PUBS THE ARTIVIST At this bar, gallery and restaurant there’s a new art exhibition on the walls each month and some of the best food in the neighbourhood, making it a great place for kickstarting an evening. In the basement is a separate cocktail bar and events space, The Untitled Basement, used for private parties and pop-up events hosted by The Artivist’s DJ owners Kenzhero and Bradley Williams.QC‑3, 7 Reserve St, Braamfontein. Open 11:00–22:30, Mon 11:00–16:00.

Closed Sun.

MAD GIANT A standout craft brewery in the regenerated historic warehouse district 1 Fox Precinct, that has an expansive sunny beer garden and shares space with the celebrated Urbanologi restaurant, known for its sophisticated small plates menu. Signature brews include the crisp hoppy pilsner The Guzzler and there’s always new limited edition special brews to try.QB‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, madgiant.co.za.

Open 12:00–24:00, Sat 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–16:30.

U­BE­L MILK BAR AFRICAN The decor is African retro-chic – think old-fashioned handpainted barbershop signs, unusual antique furniture and colourful African upholstery, complemented by abundant pot plants and bright blue Joburg skies enjoyed on the expansive terrace. The space was once the clubhouse for the adjacent sports club and sports are still very much a part of the place with the bar packing out with sports watchers, particularly rugby fans, when there are big matches on.

Also at Keyes Art Mile, Rosebank.QK‑8, Sandton Sports Club, 11 Holt St, Parkmore, tel. +27 87 701 2002, milkbar. co.za. Open 07:00–22:00. ­T­U­E­S­L­W

CALEXICO VINYL LOUNGE AND BEER YARD Found inside the pretty courtyards of 44 Stanley this is one of the city’s most attractive beer gardens. Inspired by a love of vinyl music and breezy Californian vibes on Thursday and Friday nights Calexico boasts the best vinyl DJ sets in the city while on Saturday afternoons live bands play for free in the beer garden. The friendly and relaxed atmosphere is somewhat addictive, even if you are just dropping by for one drink you’ll inevitably end up staying for several.QA-1, 44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791, calexico.co.za. Open 10:30–22:30, Fri 09:30–24:00, Sat 09:30–22:30, Sun 10:30–18:30. Closed Mon. B­­E­L

THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen bet­ter days, this historic pub, which traces its history back to 1929 when it opened as a tea room and illicit shebeen, still brims with warmth and char­acter. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the bar only add to The Radium’s unique charm.

Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–24:00, Sun 11:00– 17:00. Admission R100–R120 on Saturday nights. E

HELL’S KITCHEN At this American-styled whisky bar on Melville’s party central 7th Street the heroes are the bad boys of rock ‘n’ roll.

The walls are decorated with photos of rock heroes such as Iggy Pop and moody red neon signs send out racy messages suggesting you ‘be naked when I get home’. One of the biggest bars on the street there’s plenty of space to rock out after rolling up on your mean machine. Look out for the weekly gourmet Sunday braai.Q4 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 79 980 9591, hellskitchen.co.za. Open 12:00– 02:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. B­S­W

SAN DECK The steady construction of new high-rises in Sandton’s business district may mean the panoramic view is not nearly as impressive as it once was from here, but that doesn’t detract from the fact that it is still the biggest and most elaborate rooftop bar in Sandton. Fire pits, hanging chairs, sofas and a dining area are joined by dozens of trees, sun loungers, DJ decks and even a small swimming pool.QL-9 Sandton Sun Hotel, Cnr Alice Ln and 5th St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5086, sandtonsun.com.

Open 11:00–02:00. U­B­E­L­W

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife ROOFTOP BARS ELEVATE Standing tall on the 16th floor of the Reef Hotel in the middle of historic Marshalltown, Elevate’s glass fronted bar and lounge look out over the expanse of the iconic downtown skyline. Hands down one of the best views of the city, especially at sunset. To access the bar take the lift from the Reef Hotel lobby and get out at the 16th floor.QD‑5, Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street, City Centre, tel. +27 11 689 1000, elevate.co.za. Open 14:00–23:00, Open on event nights. B­E­L­W LIVING ROOM A little garden in the sky filled with exotic plants that snake their way around eco-friendly furniture. Not immediately obvious from the street this rooftop bar in hip Maboneng is hidden away on the 5th floor of the largely residential Main Change building. More of a café-bar, the Living Room is at its most happening when the rooftop fills up for their infamous weekend afternoon sundowners DJ parties with a memorable urban backdrop.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission R60 before 16:00, R80 thereafter, R50 when booked online. B­L KAFE NOIR Congolese-born artist and designer Papy Nakuw’s Kafe Noir is an oasis in the city, one street from bustling Gandhi Square. Cheap beers, delicious Congolese-style grilled fish and a vinyl record player create a chilled atmosphere but the best surprise is upstairs at the rooftop beach bar (ask the staff to show you the way) where sun loungers and cool urban views await.QE‑5, 100 Anderson St, City Centre, tel. +27 60 411 5178, urbanbackpackers. co.za. Open 08:00–21:00. B­ESW

PARTIES & CLUB NIGHTS If you’re looking for an alternative to the northern suburbs’ mainstream nightlife and clubs, head into the City Centre for a wider variety of parties, catering to everyone from salsa fanatics to Afrobeat hipsters.

Here’s a roundup of some favourites.

THE TENNIS CLUB Occupying the old Ellis Park Tennis Club, parties at this hip underground events space have an atmosphere somewhat akin to being invited to the house party of your coolest friend's even cooler acquaintance. There’s no regular schedule so follow their Instagram page for the latest.Qinstagram.com/ thetennisclubjhb THE FEEL GOOD SERIES Mingle with local artists, musicians and DJs at The Feel Good Series, a monthly laid-back Saturday party held on a downtown rooftop, with an eclectic musical landscape spanning everything from hip-hop and R&B to reggae and funk.Qinstagram.com/feelgoodseries ROOFTOP SALSA Join Joburg’s salsa fanatics at the weekly Sunday afternoon rooftop salsa party at 28 Auret Street in Maboneng.Qrooftopsalsa.com OBRIGADO Led by popular local DJ Kenzhero, rumba, kizomba and salsa the Saturday afternoon away at this Latino-house music party usually held at Constitution Hill. There's a pop-up bar selling rum cocktails plus a spicy paella food stall to keep you going after sunset.

Qinstagram.com/obrigadosa CUTTAWAYS Jam along to the best vinyl tracks with DJ Tha Cutt at Curiocity Hostel’s monthly Cuttaways all-vinyl party hosted in one of Maboneng’s coolest venues, The Cosmopolitan, a restored Victorian hotel.

Qfacebook.com/CuriocityHostels

Kitchener's Carvery Bar, Braamfontein. Photo by SA Tourism

FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday of every month, head to Braamfontein or Rosebank for the First Thursdays art party which features contemporary art, live music, DJ sets, poetry, performance art and popup bars. In Braamfontein head to Reserve Street, 99 Juta, Wits Art Museum or The Grove and in Rosebank check out the Keyes Art Mile street party.

PUSSY PARTY A monthly club night for Joburg’s queer community hosted at Kitchener’s in Braamfontein with an all-queer DJ line-up. Expect a flamboyant mostly-female crowd and an anything-goes atmosphere where sudden camp vogue “deathdrops” are the rule not the exception, awkward dance moves are welcomed and the music can be anything from 1980s pop to kwaito and house.Qfacebook.com/ pssypartyjhb facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

43

What to See

The Old Fort at Constitution Hill. Photo by SA Tourism

25

ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING EXPERIENCES

With a brief but rich history, an exciting contemporary art scene, colourful street life and youthful and ambitious energy, Joburg has more than enough sightseeing to keep you busy for days. Whether you are seeking art and culture, history, or adrenaline-charged aerial adventures, this is our pick of 25 essential experiences to add to your Joburg itinerary.

1

SATURDAYS IN BRAAMFONTEIN Known for its youthful energy, abundant and colourful street art and busy nightlife, Joburg’s student heartland Braamfontein is at its liveliest on Saturdays, when the streets fill with street fashion rebels, creatives, fixie bike hipsters and the young-at-heart seeking a faster pace than the northern suburbs. One of the biggest drivers of all this extra foot traffic is the famous weekly rooftop Neighbourgoods Market, where there’s the biggest choice of food trucks, plus cocktails and craft beers, live music on the rooftop and a host of vintage clothing and fresh designs from small local labels.

Braamfontein’s art galleries are also open on Saturdays, with exhibition walkabouts and launches also often on the schedule. For edgy contemporary art exhibitions check out Kalashnikovv and Stevenson and make sure to also pay a visit to the Wits Art Museum, where there’s a regular programme of Saturday morning events including a Drop in Drawing class on every second Saturday of the month and family viewing walkabouts on every third Saturday.

After you’ve explored the art galleries, fashion stores and spent some time hanging out at the market, there’s always more reason to stay on on a Saturday if you like to party. After the market closes at 15:00, many market shoppers move on to one of the nearby student-oriented bars for drinks and DJ sets. Opposite the market check out what’s happening at Great Dane or Kitchener's or head

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

one block up to the open piazza The Grove for pizzas and people-watching, or settle in with a beer at Republic of 94’s huge beer garden at 94 Juta Street.

2

TASTE INDIAN JOBURG IN FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, today the predominantly Muslim area is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. There are plenty of cheap and cheerful places to eat everything from north Indian curries and masala dosas to Turkish kebabs and traditional sweetmeats.

In the centre of Fordsburg is the Oriental Plaza which opened in the 1970s in an attempt to compensate Indian shop owners whose businesses had been destroyed during the apartheid forced removals. What was once a white elephant is now a thriving bazaar with fabric shops, spice shops, fast fashion, a great luggage selection, kid's toys, sari silks, haberdashery and budget-priced homewares. The plaza boasts more than 350 stores where you can shop for armfuls of bracelets, hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts, bejewelled slippers, a huge range of wedding outfits, glamorous evening dresses and much more plus, not forgetting the best coconut samoosas in town at the legendary World of Samoosas. This centre also has the reputation of being a fair-priced jewellery Mecca.QA-4, 38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–15:00.

Closed Sun, and during Friday prayers 12:00–14:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

3

VISIT JOBURG’S NATIONAL HERITAGE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the heart of the city. A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions in the former prison buildings reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people who passed through this place. These include iconic political activists like Albertina Sisulu, Winnie Madikizela-Mandela, Joe Slovo, Ruth First and Nelson Mandela.

The Old Fort is the oldest area of the site. It was built in 1893 as a fortress to keep a watch over the miners flocking to the growing settlement of Johannesburg and following the end of the Anglo-Boer War the fort became a jail for white prisoners. A new museum details this fascinating history. Make sure you take a walk around the fort ramparts for a fantastic view of the skyscrapers of the City Centre and an enticing glimpse into the hustle and bustle of the chaotic neighbourhood of Hillbrow. While exploring the ramparts also look for a collection of new installations that detail the building’s colonial history, including a replica Howitzer cannon.

Take a formal tour or end your visit by taking a look around the inspiring Constitutional Court building which represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection.QB-2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission to museum areas R80, kids R40, students R45, pensioners R55 (includes optional one hour guided tour). Admission and a two hour guided tour R100, kids R65, students, pensioners R70.

4

LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY AT THE APARTHEID MUSEUM This extensive museum strives to show the bitter realities of the apartheid system from many angles and a visit is an unforgettable, thought-provoking, and at times difficult experience. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. There is also extensive coverage of the tense political negotiations that took place in the early 1990s to end apartheid and of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC) which was established in 1996 in an effort to provide victims and perpetrators of crimes committed by the apartheid state with a platform to bear witness. A highly immersive experience. Give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum. org. Open 09:00–17:00.Admission R95, kids, pensioners and students R80. Not suitable for young kids. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

JOBURG HISTORY 1886 The discovery of gold spurs the world’s largest ever gold rush. Within three years the dusty mining camp grows into the largest settlement in South Africa, later to be named Johannesburg.

1899-1901 Strained relations between the mine barons, English-speaking new arrivals and the Transvaal’s Boer government lead to the Anglo-Boer War, and subsequent British control of the Johannesburg area.

1910s and 1920s Violent protests and strikes erupt over the conditions in the city’s mines culminating in the ultimately unsuccessful “Rand Revolt” of 1922.

1948 White privilege is entrenched with the ascension of the Nationalist Party, who implement the policy of apartheid, relocating thousands of black people to remote “homelands”, introducing pass laws to severely restrict their movement and banning black opposition parties.

1955 After passing the Group Areas Act, the Nationalist government begins Forced Removals, evicting non-white residents from their homes and sending them to live in the new South Western Townships (Soweto). Close to 55,000 people are forcibly removed from Sophiatown before the entire multi-racial suburb is razed to make way for a ‘Whites Only’ area. On June 26 the South African Congress Alliance gathers in Kliptown, Soweto, to adopt The Freedom Charter, a document outlining the principles for a free and democratic South Africa.

1960s In 1961 Nelson Mandela moves to the Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia. Here he and his comrades formulate a plan for an armed struggle against the apartheid government. In 1963 the farm is raided and following the Rivonia Trial, the men are sentenced to life in prison.

1976 The youth-led Soweto protests on June 16 against the apartheid government’s discriminatory education policies, end in bloodshed when police open fire on the unarmed schoolchildren. The ensuing riots and unrest echo across the country.

1980s A most turbulent decade, with states of emergency declared, violence erupting in the townships, street battles against the racist police, detentions without trial for political activists, tightening sanctions and heightened state security.

1990 State President FW De Klerk announces he will unban anti-apartheid organisations and release political prisoners, among them Nelson Mandela.

1994 South Africa holds its first democratic elections.

Nelson Mandela is elected President.

1990s Big business and the middle class move away from the inner-city and Joburg’s centre of business moves north to Sandton, leading to a rapid urban decline in the inner city.

2010 South Africa triumphantly hosts the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The Opening Ceremony and Final are held at Soccer City, now FNB Stadium in Soweto.

February – April 2019

45

What to See

Sharp Braai, Maboneng. Photo by SA Tourism

6

5

SUNDAYS IN MABONENG One of Joburg’s greatest regeneration stories, Maboneng was originally a gritty industrial warehouse and factory district with the somewhat forgettable name of City and Suburban. The neighbourhood’s remaking began in 2009 with the launch of the pioneering development Arts On Main (straddling Fox and Main Streets) which is home to a number of artist studios including William Kentridge’s Centre for the Less Good Idea. In 2011 the weekly Market On Main launched and has been the heartbeat of Sundays in Maboneng ever since.

Fast forward to today and what is now known as the Maboneng Precinct has spread out across a dozen adjacent blocks and has been frequently touted in the international press as "one of Africa’s coolest neighbourhoods".

Market On Main still stands at the centre of this growing precinct and remains its distinctive heartbeat every Sunday with a great selection of food and a bustling market that spills out into the street where you’ll find everything from vintage clothing and souvenirs to second-hand books and African fabrics on sale.

After exploring the market and enjoying the sunny Arts on Main courtyard take a stroll up Fox Street, Maboneng’s high street, and take your pick from dozens of pavement cafés, bars and restaurants. Movie buffs should stick around to watch the latest African arthouse films and documentaries at Joburg’s only independent cinema The Bioscope, while the energetic visitor should not miss out on a cycling tour of the area that can be booked through MainStreetWalks based at Maboneng’s popular backpackers Curiocity.

With Monday meaning work for many, the party ends relatively early on Sundays but not without a sundowners session. One of the most popular long-running Sunday parties happens at the rooftop bar Living Room, while for a more low-key end to the day, streetside cafébars like Love Revo, Café Bertrand and Pata Pata are all good choices.

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

REMEMBER THE FORCED REMOVALS OF 1955 AT SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma, that is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown.

Book a walking tour of the suburb led by residents of old Sophiatown.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130 or +27 11 477 3490, sophiatownthemix.com. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Admission R60, Sof'town Urban Experience walking tour R180.

7

TRACE THE 80,000 YEAR HISTORY OF HUMANITY AT ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum at the University of the Witwatersrand explores the history of modern humans, tracing humanity's emergence along an 80,000-year path to its African source. Compelling exhibits include extensive collections of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, plus ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.QB‑2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, wits.ac.za/ origins. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Admission R81.

8

SPEND THE DAY IN SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township is so large it could practically be considered a city in its own right. There is no shortage of important heritage landmarks, such as the Hector Pieterson Museum and the Nelson Mandela House Museum, to visit. With a unique spirit and culture that is all its own it is worth booking a tour with a local guide and putting aside a day to really get under the skin of this fascinating place – or better still book a room at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers and spend the night here too. See our Soweto guide on pages 53-55 for more.

9

HANG OUT IN MELVILLE Melville’s bohemian reputation was forged during the 1980s and early 1990s by an alternative Afrikaner set of academics, writers, artists, performers and poets. Melville was living like a wild child at a time when apartheid was strangling the nation into conformity. Today it retains its alternative and eclectic feel with its high street along 7th Street devoid of the big-name brands that so often accompany a modern change of fortune. Melville's denizens are a mix of hues and proclivities. With its proximity to two universities this is a popular student hangout and nightlife capital, and the suburb's late-night bars have earned their fair share of notoriety. With close to 30 guesthouses the suburb is also a popular tourist stopover. The wild child appears to be growing up with a steady increase in classy bars and restaurants dominating 7th Street. The quirky 27 Boxes, a shopping development built from shipping containers located between 3rd and 4th Avenues just off 7th Street, has brought to the neighbourhood a family-friendly atmosphere with a great kids' playground, easy-going cafés and a fun collection of fashion and gift shops. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Photo by Felix Lipov for Shutterstock.com

10

RELAX IN THE PARK Joburg is blessed with one of the best climates. In summer and early autumn the sun is almost always out and the temperature stays at a solid 25-30 °C, perfect weather for relaxing in the park with a picnic. Among our favourite parks are the sprawling Johannesburg Botanical Gardens on the banks of the Emmarentia Dam, the popular Zoo Lake park where you can rent row boats and the newly revived The Wilds with its colourful sculptures of African wildlife and stunning views of the city. Slightly further afield the 300-hectare Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens (30 minutes drive from Sandton) offers a taste of the countryside with an impressive waterfall at its centre, abundant indigenous flora, expansive manicured lawns and short hiking trails.

11

SEE SOUTH AFRICA’S HISTORY TOLD THROUGH COINS AT AFRICA’S BIGGEST MINT

After a visit to Coin World, the South African Mint’s museum, you'll be left with a whole new interest and respect for what you might formerly have thought of as loose change. The interactive museum tells the story of one of the world’s biggest coin manufacturers and the history of money as a whole. From 800-year old South African coins to one of the oldest working steam-operated minting machines, and of course the iconic Kruger Rand bullion coin, there's a remarkable collection of unusual exhibits.QCoin World, cnr Old Johannesburg Rd and Brakfontein Rd, Gateway, Centurion, tel. +27 12 677 2460/2482, samint.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Mon 13:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–14:00.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

12

WALK ONTO THE PITCH AT EMIRATES AIRLINE PARK Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team by wearing a Springbok jersey here during the 1995 World Cup Final between the Springboks and the All Blacks. Rugby fans can book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium, which includes the opportunity to walk out onto the pitch (an awesome photo opportunity) and a visit to the quirky Ellis Park rugby museum which contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia.QG‑3, Emirates Airline Park (formerly Ellis Park Stadium), 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 61 400 4883 or +27 11 402 2960, ellispark.co.za. Open 08:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Call in advance to book a visit. Admission R50, kids R20.

13

SHOP FOR LOCAL CRAFT If you are looking to shop for local handcrafted items, you are spoiled for choice in Joburg with many of the city’s busy weekend markets offering lots of opportunity to pick up unique souvenirs, as well as daily dedicated craft markets focused on African crafts where bargaining is also part of the fun. From fashion and accessories to decor and design, you’ll also find lots of unique homegrown brands that are dedicated to maintaining artisanal traditions and supporting the preservation of indigenous knowledge. See our gift shopping feature on page 60 for our guide to beautiful local crafted goods for every budget.

February – April 2019

47

What to See

14

EXPLORE JOBURG’S NEW MAKERS' SPACE VICTORIA YARDS A sprawling, once derelict, light industrial complex of buildings in the formerly downtrodden suburb of Lorentzville in eastern Joburg, the 30,000m² site Victoria Yards is undergoing a spectacular re-imagining and houses an ever-growing network of makers, artists and artisans. The underlying ethos of Victoria Yards is to create a community of makers and just about all the businesses that have showrooms here also have a workshop or studio space.

At the centre of a wider 'Maker's Valley' that is forming in this historic part of eastern Joburg, Victoria Yards provides space for artisan workshops and artist studios. The whole area is brought together by an artistic spirit that encourages collaboration and promotes artisanal techniques. Local decor designers like furniture visionary David Krynauw and the Smelt glass studio have their workshops here as do dozens of prominent artists including Blessing Ngobeni, Ayanda Mabulu, James Delaney, Benon Lutaaya, Justice Mukheli of the innovative photography collective I See A Different You, and world-renowned photographer Roger Ballen. They are joined by art galleries The Afropolitan, Art of the Continent and the Daville Baillie Gallery which also has a cool bookshop devoted to selling literature that talks about all things cultural, from art criticism and photography, to memoirs, art history and philosophy.

Fashion designers who have their studios and boutiques here include denim designer Tshepo The Jean-

48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

maker who counts a number of local celebrities as clients, Oscar Ncube's Dry bone co. for funky leather jackets made from recycled vintage leather pants, long-running bespoke designer menswear label Augustine and Hélène Thomas' Yol Bijoux Nomades jewellery that is carefully created from souvenirs from her global travels.

Craft beer and craft gin makers have also moved in.

Check out the Impi Brewery Company which has its own adjoining bar and pizza restaurant and look out for newcomer gin distillery Primal Spirit.

For lunch we highly recommend The Fish and Chip Shop which makes what is without a doubt the best fish and chips you’ll eat in Joburg (traditionally packed up in newspaper to take away) and for coffee there’s the Foakes Coffee Roastery who also make excellent sourdough bread.

Connecting the entire complex is a series of lush urban gardens filled with herbs, medicinal plants and fruit trees, creating a serene atmosphere in what was once a dusty down-at-heel corner of the city. Victoria Yards is also building a network of urban farmers from other parts of the city and at the monthly Victoria Yards First Sundays event, always a festive affair with open studios, live music and market stalls, there’s a chance to buy produce from local farmers.

As many of the spaces are let to working artists and artisans there are no regulated opening hours for the complex.

The first Sunday of the month is always a buzzy time to visit, while on other Sundays most spaces are closed.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

15

VISIT THE LATEST CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITIONS AT KEYES ART MILE Within walking distance of the malls of Rosebank, at the corner of Jan Smuts and Jellicoe Avenues, is the start of Keyes Art Mile, an exciting development that has revitalised a formerly quiet street and created a centre for art and design in Rosebank. The first phase of Keyes Art Mile is the Trumpet building (opened late August 2016), an impressive contemporary space, with galleries, chic design stores and cafés opening out onto the street. The vast atrium is curated as a gallery space and upstairs is a cluster of slick restaurants and bars.

Once the humdrum headquarters of a major petrol company Keyes Art Mile is now one of the hottest spots in Joburg, and attracts up to 2,000 people on the first Thursday of every month to its First Thursdays street parties where food trucks and pop-up bars are set up and live bands perform. Flanked by wild olive trees, Trumpet’s towering architecture is the work of StudioMAS who designed the landmark Circa Gallery next door which is encased in a series of soaring metal fins. On any day the rhombus-shaped Trumpet building is a cool space with a busy African-retro styled pavement café Milk Bar, an American burger bar BGR, the ultra-stylish rooftop Marble grill restaurant and Mesh Club, a sexy members-only club with a chic cocktail bar Mix that is open to the public and crammed full of impressive contemporary art.

At Circa and Everard Read galleries, which face each other across Keyes Avenue impressive temporary exhibi-

tions by leading South African artists await. After viewing the exhibitions at Circa make sure to find your way up to the top floor to check out the views over the hills and valleys of the western suburbs.

Inside the Trumpet building check out SMAC Gallery where you can find edgy contemporary fine art, installation and photography exhibitions. Another must-visit is the high-tech TMRW Gallery where African digital art takes centre stage with high-tech interactive 3D exhibitions and installations.

There’s also a host of exclusive design stores to browse, including Anatomy Design, a studio and shop that has built a name for its considered spaces, attention to detail and elegant homeware items. At True Design you'll find ltalian design brands Cassina, showcasing timeless modernist classics, and Kartell.

Keyes Art Mile has an exciting programme of regular art-focused events, most of which are free to attend. There's the First Thursdays party on the first Thursday of every month, and the monthly Art & Design Saturdays on the second Saturday of every month, an art-filled morning of talks, book launches, film screenings, exhibitions and new installations. Also look out for The Pantry Market, an organic produce market with a focus on artisanal foods held on the last Saturday of the month and the regular Talking Art evenings which see leading artists, curators, critics and collectors taking on topics relating to local contemporary art.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za.

GAUTENG’S

NEW MUST-SEE

TOURIST

DESTINATION

explore. discover.

IT’S THE CLOSEST YOU WILL EVER GET TO WILDLIFE

KIDS UNDER 12 FREE ON ALL GUIDED GAME DRIVES AND SELF-DRIVES

SELF-DRIVES | GUIDED GAME DRIVES | GIRAFFE FEEDING RESTAURANTS | KIDDIES PLAY AREA | ANIMAL INTERACTION FUNCTIONS | CONFERENCES | RIVER RAFTING AND MORE... www.lionandsafaripark.com | info@lionpark.com 087 1500 100 | R512 Lanseria Road | South Africa ONLY 13km FROM LANSERIA AIRPORT B-BBEE Accredited

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2019

49

What to See

16

HEAR THE STORY OF MANDELA’S TREASON TRIAL AT LILIESLEAF FARM Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia was the secret headquarters of the anti-apartheid movement in the early 1960s. Mandela helped found Umkhonto we Sizwe (the Spear of the Nation) here, the ANC's armed wing, and he and his comrades would later be sentenced to life in prison for their activities at the farm in the 1964 Rivonia Trial. Interactive displays outline in detail the lives of these incredible men and their efforts to end apartheid, complemented by a wealth of archival video and audio footage. Give yourself a few hours to explore.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Admission R110 (includes a guided tour), kids R50, pensioners R40, students R60, kids under 7 free.

17

Nirox Sculpture Park, Cradle of Humankind

MEET OUR MOST ANCIENT ANCESTORS AT MAROPENG Maropeng is the visitors' centre for the Cradle of Humankind, an area around 50-minutes drive north-west of Sandton, where many of the world's most famous hominid fossils have been found. Maropeng's extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it – from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind and the spread of people across continents. The stories behind the numerous discoveries made here are also showcased alongside copies of the original fossils, including the world famous Homo Naledi. Combine a visit with a 45-minute tour of the Sterkfontein Caves (a short drive away) that leaves hourly.QR400, off the R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Maropeng open 09:00– 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combo ticket R190.

Discounts for kids, students, pensioners.

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

18

LOOK FOR WILDLIFE The Lion and Safari Park is a popular family day out for seeing big wildlife while you are in town.

This 600-hectare wilderness reserve set in the Cradle of Humankind has plenty of big plains game including giraffe and zebra as well as a predators area to see lion, hyena and wild dog. Opt for a self-drive or a guided safari. The large visitors' centre (entrance is free) has a huge gift shop and restaurants with views over the park where you can watch wildebeest grazing.QR512 Lanseria Rd, Lanseria, tel. +27 87 150 0100, lionandsafaripark.com. Open 08:00–18:00, Weekends and Public holidays 08:00–20:00. Self drive from R195, safari tours from R330. Kids under 12 free.

19

RIDE AROUND TOWN ON THE OPEN-TOP CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open‑top, hop‑on hop‑off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red Bus route starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include SAB World of Beer and the Apartheid Museum from where you can join a whistle‑stop two‑hour minibus tour of Soweto.

The green route starts from The Zone@Rosebank and ends at Constitution Hill. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus at 15:10. Buses Mon–Fri every 40 mins. Sat, Sun, every 30 mins.QTel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing. co.za. Tickets from R200 (R180 online). Soweto combo ticket R480.

20

CONQUER YOUR FEARS ON A ZIPLINE TRAIL OR BUNGEE JUMP There are many ways to get high and make your pulse race in Joburg without getting into serious trouble. At Acrobranch in Melrose test your head for heights by ziplining from tree to tree. There are five courses to choose from appropriate for all ages with plenty of obstacles to tackle (M-12, Melrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

Closed Mon, Tue). For the ultimate adrenaline rush book a bungee jump from the top of the iconic Orlando Towers in Soweto or if you are feeling less of a daredevil ride the lift to the top and enjoy the view before heading back down for a pint of Soweto Gold lager at the Chaf Pozi beer garden (see page 55 for details).

21

WEEKENDS AT NIROX SCULPTURE PARK This exceptional park is set in 15 magnificent hectares that form part of an extensive nature reserve in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. It is run by the Nirox Foundation who offer an international artist residency programme and organise an annual winter sculpture fair held in the park. The park opens to the public on weekends and has a regular events programme (book your entrance tickets and check out the schedule online) and lunch is available at the delightful Nita's Kitchen cafe.Q24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 82 854 6963, Niroxarts. com. Admission R100, kids R50. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Inside Ponte's core. Photo by Felix Lipov for Shutterstock.com

22

SEE THE CITY'S BEST VIEWS FROM THE TOP FLOOR OF THE PONTE TOWER Dlala Nje (meaning 'Just Play' in isiZulu) is an innovative tour company based in Hillbrow’s iconic Ponte building that offers memorable walking and immersion experiences in the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow and Yeoville. Dlala Nje’s aim is to dispel myths about these notorious suburbs and to showcase the unusual history and various African communities that make these areas of the city so distinctive.

Tours start at Dlala Nje's 51st floor apartment venue on the top floor of Ponte, Africa’s tallest residential building, from where you are surrounded by awe-inspiring views. It’s also an atmospheric starting point to listen to Dlala Nje telling the remarkable story of one of Joburg’s most distinctive landmarks and its surrounding neighbourhoods.

Ponte’s evolution mirrors the history of Joburg’s urban landscape. When it was built during the 1970s, Ponte was one of the most desirable addresses in the cosmopolitan central suburb of Berea. However, as South Africa’s state of emergency kicked in during the 1980s and municipal services to the building were cut off, the building began to decay dramatically. By the mid-1990s Ponte was in such a bad state, overrun by gangs and piled high with trash, that there were even proposals made to take the building facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

over and turn it into a high-rise prison. Since the turn of the century however, Ponte has been experiencing a slow and miraculous revival and today is a well-run and fully-let residential building in the middle of Joburg’s most densely populated neighbourhood. In 2012 Dlala Nje launched a community centre and tour company in Ponte, leading efforts to turn around pervasive negative perceptions about visiting the neighbourhood.

Dlala Nje’s unique collection of tours include guided strolls through the busy streets of Hillbrow and Berea; a Pan-African culinary journey along the heart of Rockey Street in Yeoville, with tasting stops at local Congolese and Cameroonian eateries along the way (the stop for freshly grilled fish at La Camerounaise is always particularly memorable); and an immersive and insightful tour of the building itself, that winds its way up from the inner 'core' (pictured) to a 51st floor apartment.

Dlala Nje also has a packed events programme that includes Talking Politics, a monthly journalist-led conversation series about contemporary South African politics and socioeconomic issues hosted at their 51st floor venue. Fitness buffs can join in the monthly Ponte City Challenge, a race to summit the tower block’s 900+ stairs!QTel. +27 11 402 2373, dlalanje.org, email info@dlalanje.org. Tours from R350.

February – April 2019

51

Fox Street, Maboneng. Photo by Rich T for Shutterstock.com

What to See

23

MINING HISTORY OF THE CITY OF GOLD Johannesburg sits on the edge of the world's largest known gold deposit. The area was first declared open for public digging in 1886, although it is known that gold was traded and worked here for centuries before the arrival of gold prospectors. Within just a few years the city grew to become the largest settlement in South Africa and swelled with migrant workers from across Southern Africa and beyond.

The so-called 'Randlords' (mining company owners) controlled much of the mining wealth and were responsible for constructing some of Joburg's grandest and most recognisable buildings, which can still be admired today. Joburg’s mining past also left behind a scarred and fractured landscape pockmarked by distinctive mine dumps (found mostly in south Joburg) and a legacy of spatial apartheid as successive governments sought to limit and control how black migrant workers, who serviced the mines and toiled to bring Joburg’s wealth to the surface, accessed the city. While Joburg has no dedicated mining museum, there are numerous museums and landmarks that speak to the city’s mining past.

On Mary Fitzgerald Square, named for the country’s first female trade unionist leader who protested for the rights of the city’s mine workers in the early 1900s, is Museum Africa (open 09:00–17:00, closed Mon). Inside there is an excellent exhibition titled Joburg Firsts which details the early growth of Joburg from mining camp to city. Nearby is the small Worker’s Museum (52 Rahima Moosa St, Newtown, Open 09:00–17:00, closed Mon) which details the daily hardships, dangers and humiliations faced by the African migrant workers who came to work in Joburg’s mining industry, as well as their important role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

A few blocks away the pedestrianised section of Main Street (between Ntemi Piliso and Gandhi Square) is known as the Main Street Mining District. Home to the grand headquarters of many of South Africa’s biggest mining companies, the precinct is a living open-air museum, lined with relics of the early gold rush such as mining headgear, stamp presses and carts that are complemented by informative boards detailing Joburg’s early mining history, as well as monuments and statues dedicated to mineworkers. At Standard Bank’s downtown headquarters (5 Simmonds St, open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00, closed Sun) you can see the Ferreira Mine Stope, one of the very first gold prospecting sites in Joburg. Named for farmer, soldier and later gold prospector Ignatius Phillip Ferreira, the mine stope lay forgotten until its discovery in the 1980s during the construction of the Standard Bank building. Since then it has been preserved as a small museum with a permanent exhibition of photographs and old maps which show how Joburg’s first prospectors operated, displayed alongside oldfashioned mining equipment like gas lamps and pickaxes.

Running parallel to Main Street, Fox, Commissioner and Albertina Sisulu Streets are also rich in mining history and around almost every corner is another impressive heritage building, built with the wealth made by the early Randlords.

Look out for Cornerhouse at 77 Commissioner Street (cnr Simmonds Street), which was built in 1903 for the Anglo mining company. You can catch a glimpse of its beautiful interiors at the Ornate Coffee shop which sits below a magnificent stained glass dome. Two blocks down is Rand Club, one of Joburg’s most fabulous colonial era buildings, founded in 1887 by Cecil Rhodes as a members' club that catered to an exclusively white male clientele. Nowadays membership is open to all and the club still retains all its original period features – including pewter tankards behind the bar and a portrait of a young Queen Elizabeth II who gazes regally over the mezzanine floor.

24

TRAVEL BACK IN TIME TO THE VICTORIAN ERA AT LINDFIELD HOUSE Lindfield House is a unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life presided over by Katherine Love, who, faithfully dressed in period costume, brilliantly conjures the Victorian era through her vast knowledge and the lavish exhibits that spread across 18 object-filled rooms.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932. Visits by appointment only. Admission R50, pensioners R30.

25

CYCLE THE CITY While Joburg is very much a car oriented city, in recent years cycling culture has exploded in the city and there are now more cyclists taking to Joburg’s roads than ever before. Experiencing the city and nearby attractions like Soweto and the Cradle of Humankind has never been easier with lots of dedicated cycling tour operators who also offer bike rental as part of their packages. See our cycling feature on page 36 for our guide to exploring Joburg by bike. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Budding young footballers in Soweto. Photo by Ilan Ossendryver, Tour Soweto

JoburgSoweto Basics

In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also jokingly referred to as 'Diepkloof Expensive'.

Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and dizzying house numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms, family suites or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, fireside storytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the lush small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows – fresh bread filled with homemade curries cooked in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955, and also serves a good 'Kliptini' cocktail.QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

TOURS Take a tour with a local guide to go off-the-beaten path and experience ‘ikasi’ life and culture. City-based MainStreetWalks run excellent Soweto tours that include a transfer from their Maboneng base at Curiocity Hostel. If you are really limited for time and don't mind not being able to get out and walk around the City Sightseeing bus has a whistle-stop tour of Soweto by minibus starting from the Apartheid Museum.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a must-do. If you can't ride a bike or prefer something a little less strenous they also offer tuk-tuk tours and excellent walking tours. Choose from two-hour, half-day or fullday tours which take in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and street food giving you a much broader understanding of Sowetan culture than you'll get on a drive-by visit to Vilakazi Street.

Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch and join in a traditional African beer tasting.

Lebo's also runs a host of other Soweto experiences which can be combined with a tour such as early morning yoga sessions and traditional cooking classes. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged.

Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers.com. Bicycle tours from R515, tuktuk tours from R485.

February – April 2019

53

Soweto BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in Soweto's wetland areas. An avid conservationist he is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A keen cyclist Raymond also offers bicycle tours taking in areas of Soweto and the surrounding district known for their wildlife. A particular tour highlight is the hike up Soweto's highest point, the Enoch Sontonga koppie, from where you take in spectacular views of Soweto. Tours are on foot or by bike.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R150–R450.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, an impoverished neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail.com. Tours from R250.

#MYSOWETO: NOMISUPASTA NOMSA MAZWAI (also known by her stage name Nomisupasta) is an award-winning alternative Afro-pop star, the General Director of Soweto Theatre and an all-round creative. Born and raised in Soweto, Nomisupasta has travelled the country and the world but returned to Soweto for "the pace, the vibe, the colour and the people" which she loves. "The most beautiful people come from here. The born-to-do of Joburg are from Soweto," she says. Here’s her pick of some of the best places to visit.

Favourite restaurant or café? Native Rebels in Jabavu (Kadede St) because of the music, the hustle and bustle of the taxis beneath you and the vibe.

Favourite afterwork hangout? The Urban Grill in Pimville (1208 Modjadji St, Pimville Zone 1), it’s easy, smooth and fashionable.

Favourite place to shop? Locrate Market at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (first Sunday of every month) or Soweto Art and Craft Fair at Soweto Theatre (first Saturday of every month) because of all the local gems one can find there.

One thing no one would expect to hear about Soweto? That the best jam session is held every Tuesday in Chiawelo and it’s called Sawubona Music Jams (2199 Musingadi St, Chiawelo, sawubona-musicjam. business.site).

Three things a visitor should not leave Joburg without experiencing? Constitution Hill in Joburg, Soweto Theatre and Vilakazi Street in Soweto.

Best things about this city: It’s where Africa meets, making this city the most diverse.

Worst things about this city: The city sleeps.

On a weekend you’ll find me… Search #SupaSoweto on Instagram and you’ll find me!

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TOUR SOWETO Led by photojournalist Ilan Ossendryver, you’ll experience Soweto by meeting local community members and even celebrate birthdays and special occasions with the children of Kliptown. His warmth and good humour is infectious and a tour bonus is that he will guide your photography plus share a large file of photos shot by him on the day, after the trip. Expect to be led down alleyways and paths not usually visited by tourists.QTel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto.com, or mail ilan@ic-creations.com. Tours from R1950 for two people. Airport pick-ups cost R450.

WHAT TO SEE HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM Unquestionably Soweto’s best museum. Startling photos, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising, and in particular the day of June 16.

In front of the museum is a memorial to 12-year-old Hector Pieterson, one of the first children killed by the police.

Photographer Sam Nzima’s image of Pieterson’s body being carried by another student became one of the most iconic photos of the era, graphically highlighting the senseless cruelty and brutality of the apartheid state. Note no cameras allowed inside the museum.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:30. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, or 13 years and above, R10.

JUNE 16 MEMORIAL ACRE This imaginative outdoor memorial, opened in 2015, is the start of the ‘June 16 Trail’. A timeline accompanied by photographs and exceptional murals depicts the scenes of the fateful day. Among the many artworks is a statue of a key leader of the protests, Tsietsi Mashinini, who was a pupil at Morris Isaacson High School. In the aftermath, the young Mashinini was forced to flee and sadly died in exile before apartheid was ended.QCnr Pula and Mputhi Sts (opposite Morris Isaacson High School), White City, Jabavu. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Soweto KLIPTOWN MUSEUM In June 1955 representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups gathered in Kliptown to draw up the Freedom Charter, which laid out the principles for a country in which all South Africans, regardless of colour, race or gender would be entitled to equal rights. This document is the basis for South Africa’s modern democratic constitution. The small museum on Walter Sisulu Square tells the remarkable story.Q Cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, tel +27 11 945 2200.

Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

ORLANDO TOWERS These two huge colourful cooling towers are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark and a magnet for thrill-seekers. The Orlando Towers bungee is a fearsome 100 metres while the terrifying SCAD fall inside the west tower is said to be the biggest in the world. For R80 you can also ride the lift up to the top and enjoy the view. After your jump steady your adrenaline rush with a Soweto Gold lager in the Chaf Pozi beer garden that overlooks the towers.QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open until sunset, Thu from 12:00, Fri-Sun and public holidays from 10:00.

3 ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES HANG OUT ON VILAKAZI STREET Soweto's most famous street lays claim to two Nobel Prizewinners: Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his wife Winnie in the late 1950s to early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and the modest house on the corner of Bacela Street.

Vibrant Vilakazi Street is lined with restaurants and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes, plus lots of craft stalls and small shops.

Tourists flock to the small Mandela House Museum (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Entrance R60, kids R20). For shopping check out 88 Vilakazi, a brand new shopping emporium selling local fashion and accessory brands.

FIRST WEEKEND MARKETS IN SOWETO Shop for art, crafts and fashion, and sample local food truck eats at Soweto's cool markets, with live music from energetic local bands and DJs. On the first Saturday monthly is Soweto Art & Craft Fair at Soweto Theatre (cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani) while hipsters head to Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers on the first Sunday for the Locrate Market.

ENJOY MEAT & BEER AT A LOCAL SHISA NYAMA On sunny weekends soak in Soweto’s unique buzz at a shisa nyama. A Zulu phrase – literally meaning 'burn meat' – you get to choose your cut from the butchery counter and have the chefs barbecue it for you. The busiest shisa nyama venues have a beer garden attached, and often a car wash too.

Popular hotspots close to the tourist sights include KwaLichaba off Vilakazi Street or the famous Chaf Pozi at Soweto’s iconic cooling towers (cnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 81 797 5756, chafpozi.co.za). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2018 – January 2019

55

T H E FA S H I O N I S TA’ S S H O P P I N G L I S T Joburg's got style and whether you favour statement T-shirts and custom jeans or are more partial to luxury designer accessories, here's our guide to what to buy and where.

STATEMENT T-SHIRTS Graphic designer Bradley Kirshenbaum put a new spin on the line "Been there, done that, got the T-shirt" with the Love Jozi brand, a range of well-cut designer T-shirts emblazoned with iconic Joburg landmarks like the Nelson Mandela Bridge and Joburg skyline. Love Jozi also has a great range of homeware gifts.QA-1, 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9148, lovejozi.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

We also love the fun T-shirts on sale at the colourful Krag Drag store in Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes that cheekily reference iconic brands such as the Springboks/Starbucks T-shirt.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. 27Boxes. co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

VINTAGE FASHION In Maboneng on Sundays at the weekly Market On Main the entire second level of the landmark Arts on Main building is devoted to vintage. Downstairs Nosipho Mayosi’s VintiQueen is one of the most popular vintage fashion shopping destinations around with a well-curated collection of eclectic finds.QArts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre. Market On Main open Sun 10:00–15:00. | VintiQueen, tel. +27 79 163 8187, open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30–16:00. Closed Mon. In bohemian Melville make sure to drop by Reminiscene in 27 Boxes, whose vivacious Irish owner Rosemary has been selling vintage clothing for more than three decades and has 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

an amazing eye for unique period finds including extraordinary evening gowns and accessories.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, reminiscene.co.za. Open 09:30–17:30, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon.

FABRICS AT ORIENTAL PLAZA From luxurious satins and silks to traditional African prints, colourful saris, stripy Kenyan kikoi and exquisite beaded fabrics and lace, Oriental Plaza in the historically Indian neighbourhood of Fordsburg is a fashion mecca for those working in the garment industry. One of the plaza’s best known fabric stores Jerry’s Fabrics supplied the several metres of fabric used by local designers Quiteria & George to make the opulent emerald green outfit worn by Beyoncé at the finale of the Global Citizen Festival last December.

For distinctive traditional African designs check out KwaNtu Afrocentric Designs who specialise in traditional African clothing and fabrics. Known for their intricate beadwork, there's an emphasis on traditional Xhosa clothing including some truly beautiful isikhetshemiya (beaded Xhosa headscarves).

The Plaza also boasts a brilliant selection of ready-towear fashion, including a super choice of footwear, all available at the most competitive prices you’ll find anywhere in this city.QA-5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Market on Main, Maboneng

Shopping

Maxhosa by Laduma. Photo by Sanlam Handmade Contemporary

Shopping

DESIGNER MENSWEAR Tshepo Mohlala's denim brand Tshepo The Jean Maker launched in 2015 and boasts a dedicated celebrity following. Among his most popular denim designs is the slick, masculine Presidential Slim Fit jeans and his denim dungarees and shirts, all of which come with Tshepo's distinctive crown logo.QVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, tel. +27 78 337 7381, tshepothejeanmaker.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun except for 1st Sun of the month.

Taire Avbovbo’s menswear boutique Odrin in 44 Stanley adheres to the universal truth that clothes that look good, feel good and those which continue to give that feeling over time are worth investing in. Odrin’s well-constructed shirts, trousers and jackets are designed to be worn both in and out of the office.QA-1, 44 Stanley, tel. +27 10 900 4671, odrin.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

SNEAKERS & STREETWEAR In Joburg’s hipster neighbourhood Braamfontein, check out Dip St who specialise in clothing and accessories by proudly South African streetwear brands like SOL-SOL and Cape Town-based casual street and sportswear brand Young & Lazy. Dip St also stock limited-edition sneakers by major global brands and their regular sneaker ‘drops’ (when the latest limited-edition ranges from home and abroad ar58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

rive in the store) are lively events that see the city’s sneaker freaks heading here en masse to grab the latest items before they sell out.QC-3, 82 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 027 5508, dipstreet.co.za. Open 10:00–17:30, Sat 09:00–16:00, Closed Sun. Also in Braamfontein check out the Puma concept store which includes Puma Select – a showcase of the coolest international and local collaborations. The concept store also often hosts late night DJ parties in its rear courtyard (see the schedule of upcoming parties and sign up for the guest list online).QC-3, 87 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 87 230 7306, pumaselect.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–13:00.

In Newtown the urban shopping emporium Work Shop New Town showcases an eclectic selection of cool urban streetwear including Family Tree, South African rapper Cassper Nyovest's fashion label.QB-4, 100 Carr St, Newtown, tel. +27 60 786 1004, workshopnewtown.com.

Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon.

JEWELLERY AND DIAMONDS If you are a firm believer that the biggest diamond makes the belle of the ball, then Bryna, owner of Bryllianta Diamonds and Tanzanite is your fairy godmother. With close to three decades of experience in the industry, Bryna has a wealth of knowledge to share about local diamonds and Tanzanite. Shop for precious and semi-precious jewels with expert advice and information in her plush, private and secure jewel boutique, tucked away on a rooftop in the heart of Sandton’s luxury mall strip.QL-9, The Forum, 16th Floor, 2 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121 or email bryna@bryllianta.com, bryllianta.com.

Hélène Thomas’ Yol Bijoux Nomades is an ongoing tribute to a lifetime of travel. Her one-off unique handmade accessories combine ancient artisan techniques and souvenirs from different cultures. Thomas’ favourite materials include silver, wood and mother-of-pearl while natural motifs like shells and cowrie beads feature prominently.

Visit Thomas at her studio and showroom at Victoria Yards.

QVictoria Yards, tel. +27 74 136 3633, yol-jewelry.com.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only.

HIGH FASHION LABELS Worn by the likes of supermodel Naomi Campbell, Leopard Frock is one of South Africa’s most iconic designer labels. Designer Marianne Fassler's style is bold, eclectic and electric, using vibrant colours and African-inspired motifs to produce a look that is distinctly chic, urban and African.

Q34 Engelwold Dr, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 8387, mariannefassler.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Weekends by appointment only.

Jacques van der Watt’s Black Coffee combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction and attention to detail. Van der Watt’s style favours refined tailoring and geometric shapes. Subtly feminine, with intricate construction and finely crafted details, his beautiful designs johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

work as well in everyday wear as they do in his exquisite evening gowns.QA-1, 44 Stanley, tel.+27 11 482 9148, blackcoffee.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

Laduma Ngxokolo’s designer knitwear brand Maxhosa

by Laduma is making waves globally having been featured in Italian Vogue, sold at Paris’s BHV/Marais department store, worn by Usher and mentioned by Beyoncé. The designs are inspired by the patterns and symbolism seen in the clothing and accessories of the Xhosa people, translated into luxurious and instantly recognisable dresses, jumpers and cardigans.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 1532, maxhosa.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

LUXURY LEATHER ACCESSORIES LORENZI Founded in downtown Joburg in 1962, Lorenzi is one of Joburg's most long established luxury brands. Now run by founder Renzo Lorenzi's son Ugo, the brand still defines itself by its dedication to creativity and innovation, manufacturing excellence and ethical and transparent sourcing.

The Lorenzi family came to South Africa in the 1960s and still keeps strong ties with the mother country, travelling to Italy twice a year to keep abreast of the latest trends.

Lorenzi's gorgeous statement leather handbags come in a kaleidoscope of colours and are made primarly with luxury leathers that are sourced mainly from the Klein Karoo tannery in Oudtshoorn. Among the famous names who own Lorenzi handbags are Paris Hilton, Jada Pinkett Smith and the Duchess of York.

You can shop for Lorenzi's handbags at their flagship boutique in the Nelson Mandela Square mall or visit Studio Lorenzi, their outlet store in Joburg's so-called 'Maker's Valley' where you can see their latest creations coming to life in the workshop and indulge in end of season ranges at reduced prices.QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 2501, lorenzi. co.za. Open 09:00-20:00, Sun, public holidays 09:0018:00 | Studio Lorenzi H-4, 4th floor Morkel House, 31 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein, tel +27 11 402 6832.

Open 09:00-16:00, Sat by appointment, closed Sun VIA LA MODA Overseen by Austrian-born designer and founder Hanspeter Winklmayr, Via La Moda is another homegrown luxury accessories brand that luxury addicts should know about. At the Via La Moda showroom and workshop, tucked away in an industrial building in Industria North, you'll find an enormous array of finely crafted handbags and other leather accessories in a glorious arrangement of vibrant colours, shapes and textures including colourfullydyed ostrich and buffalo leather statement handbags. The Via La Moda stable also includes Via Veneta, a fashionable range of bags and accessories using less pricey leathers.

Q19 Banfield Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 11 477 8008, vialamoda.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Fri 09:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–13:00, Sun by appointment only. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

The most established precinct on the edge of downtown Joburg. Enjoy outdoor dining, artisinal food makers, local fashion, art, design and specialist shops and services.

WWW.44STANLEY.CO.ZA | 44 STANLEY AVENUE, BRAAMFONTEIN WERF

Visit our exclusive jewel boutique embedded in the heart of Sandton By appointment only

THE FORUM, 2 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON Contact: +27 82 441 2121 | bryllianta.com

February – April 2019

59

Rosebank Art & Craft Market, Rosebank.

Photo by Justin Lee.

Shopping

SOUTH AFRICAN CRAFT SHOPPING Whether you’re in Joburg for a whole week or just one day, you shouldn't leave without taking some time to shop for local crafts and souvenirs.

High quality local crafts abound in this city and Joburg’s many craft markets and boutiques (and the street corner artisans who ply their trade at suburban intersections) often present better value and a wider range than what you are likely to find at souvenir stores in other parts of the country.

If you are here on a Thursday or Saturday make Bryanston Organic Market your craft shopping destination.

The market has been running for more than 40 years and supports some of the city’s most talented crafters, who are dedicated to preserving traditional skills and knowledge and utilizing ethically sourced materials. Another delight of shopping here is the opportunity to see the artists at work – there are even crafting classes for kids.

On any other days visit the sprawling Rosebank Art & Craft Market at Rosebank Mall where dozens of traders from across the continent sell an array of handmade curios and souvenirs. Competition is fierce so don’t be afraid to bargain. The Sunday Rosebank Market is also a worthwhile stop for souvenirs.

On Sundays in the city Maboneng is a must-visit as much for the lively atmosphere as for the weekly Market on Main which spills out of the Arts On Main building into the nearby city streets. Alongside dozens of food vendors, you’ll also find one of the biggest collections of vintage clothing as well as a host of local arts and crafts traders.

The Arts On Main building also houses one of our other favourite craft stores, Hello Africa Marketplace, who sell a beautiful selection of handcrafted gifts sourced from across the continent including hand-painted ceramics and homeware.

A short drive from Maboneng in the Victoria Yards complex in Lorentzville you’ll find Madi a Thavha Craft Art Centre, which supports a host of talented artists from rural Limpopo. The craft centre is part of a larger sustainable tourism project in northern Limpopo, the Madi a Thavha Mountain Lodge, which offers its guests an array of unique experiences that highlight the natural beauty and ancient traditions of the Venda region. The Joburg-based craft centre specialises in Venda arts and crafts including pottery, metalwork and wood carving.

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

WHAT TO BUY QWooden carved items. Small wooden figurines of African wildlife like giraffes, hippos or the Big 5 make popular gifts and are easy to transport. Also look out for more traditional human figures referencing craft styles that have been practiced for generations.

QWire and bead art. The range of distinctive, lightweight gifts made from wire and beads that you can pick up in Joburg is endless, limited only by the artist’s imagination.

We’ve seen everything from football crests, Christmas decorations and dachshunds to Star Wars characters, Ndebele dolls and elaborate necklaces fashioned from beads. Many bead artists (particularly those working on street corners) can also make items to order given a few days notice.

QAfrican fabrics. Colourful African fabrics are definitely on trend worldwide and not only for clothing.

Look out for picnic blankets made from the tightly patterned shweshwe cloth or pick up boldly patterned and brightly coloured wax print fabric to use as tablecloths.

QLocal linen. We also love Plettenberg Bay-based Mungo Design’s luxurious flat weave towels, linens and bedding which are made from all-natural fibres by hand on antique looms and can be bought at their beautiful showroom in 44 Stanley.

Bryanston Organic MarketQ40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 7063671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za.

Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00 Rosebank Art & Craft MarketQK-12, Cradock Ave, Rosebank. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

Market On MainQF-5, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

Hello Africa MarketplaceQF-5, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 633 9419, helloafricamarketplace.com. Open 10:30–16:30, Tue, Wed 10:30–16:00. Closed Mon. Madi a Thavha Craft Art CentreQVictoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville, tel. +27 83 269 6505, madiathavha. com. Open 09:30–16:30, closed Sun, Mon. Open 1st Sunday 10:00–15:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

BOOK SHOPPING South Africa’s biggest bookstore chain Exclusive Books has large branches in the Hyde Park Corner, Rosebank and Sandton City malls, all of which stay open later than most.

LOVE BOOKS Among Joburg’s best independent bookshops is Kate Rogan’s Love Books in bohemian Melville. This warm and welcoming space lives up to its name, with cosy armchairs for reading, a carefully considered selection of books that covers a broad range of topics and genres and friendly staff on hand with good advice.

QBamboo Centre, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–14:00.

BRIDGE BOOKS In downtown Joburg is Bridge Books, which has branches on Commissioner Street in the historic mining district and in Maboneng. Dedicated to supporting and promoting local writers, Bridge Books has a brilliant selection of works by South African and African writers including fiction, non-fiction, poetry and children’s books. Books can also be ordered online and there’s a decent selection of second-hand titles on sale too.QD‑5, 95 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 618 9280, bridgebooks.co.za.

Open 08:30–16:30, Sat and public holidays 10:00–16:00.

Closed Sun. | Bridge Books Maboneng, 274 Fox St, tel. +27 79 708 4461. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–16:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SECOND-HAND BOOKS COLLECTOR’S TREASURY Founded in 1974 by brothers Jonathan and Geoffrey Klass, Collector’s Treasury is the largest used and rare bookshop in Africa with over 2 million items.

Crammed into a few floors of a city block, the books are heaped along walls, staircases, arranged in wobbling towers and even stacked up inside the toilet cubicles. There’s also a dizzying array of maps, collectibles, engravings, prints, porcelain, fine china and hundreds of vinyl records. Even more surprising still is that the owners somehow seem to have a handle on exactly where everything is.QF‑5, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. JAMES FINDLAY COLLECTABLE BOOKS This bookshop in the heritage-rich Rand Club in downtown Joburg, occupies the century-old club's 175-metre square basement. A suitably historic location for Findlay's astonishing collection of rare and collectable books and other items of curiosity that includes rare maps, antique posters and hand-coloured botanical lithographs.QD-5, Rand Club, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 779 4574, jellyfishtree. com. Open 11:00–18:30. Closed Mon. February – April 2019

61

Spices on sale in Fordsburg

Shopping

TOP 5 GIFTS FOR FOODIES What could be more uniquely South African than a plate of biltong and a pot of rooibos tea? If you are looking for delicious local souvenirs to take home with you, here’s our shopping list.

1. BILTONG The ultimate South African snack, biltong is a spiced and cured meat typically made from beef or sometimes game such as kudu or springbok. You can take your biltong 'wet' (or 'moist'), medium or dry (the chewiest variety). Each butcher makes his own according to time-honored techniques and will slice it up for you according to your preference – some like it lean, others with the fat left on and thick or thinly sliced is also a matter of personal taste. Also look out for droëwors, a dried spiced beef sausage made using a similar technique. While biltong is readily available in all supermarkets and petrol stations, nothing tastes quite as good as fresh biltong bought from the butcher.

2. SALT & SPICES Anybody who loves cooking should definitely consider taking home some local spices and salts. Sourced in the remote Kalahari desert, Kalahari salt is especially appreciated for its purity and makes a great substitute for sea salt or pink salt in cooking. Also look out for unique Cape Malay spice mixes that combine African, Indonesian and East African influences and the fiery Indian masala mixes enjoyed by South Africa’s large Indian community. The ultimate place to shop for spices in Joburg is the impressive Akhalwaya’s Masala Centre in Oriental Plaza in Fordsburg where you can also pick up all manner of unusual and hard to find ingredients like kalonji seeds and fenugreek powder.

3. TEA & COFFEE Meaning literally ‘red bush’, rooibos tea is made from the leaves of the red coloured Aspalathus shrub, a type of fynbos found in the Western Cape region. If you are a serious tea connoisseur then also look out for, Yswara, a local luxury brand which sells an enticing selection of exquisitely packaged and ethically-sourced African tea blends. De62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

scribed by founder Swaady Martin as ‘Afro-Zen’, Yswara’s aromatic black tea, rooibos and herbal blends come neatly packaged in elegant rose gold metallic tea canisters and can be found for sale at the Luminance department store in Hyde Park Corner and Nelson Mandela Square. Freshly roasted coffee also makes a great gift or souvenir as Joburg has numerous excellent local coffee roasters where you can buy a bag of the best to take home. See our pick of some favourite coffee roasteries on page 29.

4. HANDMADE CHOCOLATE Whether it’s a birthday, Christmas, baby shower or anniversary present, a box of the best handmade Belgian chocolates from Chocoloza at 44 Stanley can never fail to impress.

Trained in Belgium, chocolatier Vicky Bain’s chocolates are made using only the finest ingredients and she likes to experiment with flavours meaning that every season there are always new and unusual varieties to try. At their flagship 44 Stanley store you can mix and match from more than a dozen flavours, all neatly packaged in an elegant box.

5. LOCAL COOKBOOKS During the last year a host of exciting new books by young South African writers and chefs who are championing local cuisines and flavours came out and if you’d like to take home some cooking knowledge with you there are some brilliant new books on the market. For the novice The Lazy Makoti’s Guide to the Kitchen is filled with recipes that are designed to be easy to make for even the most inexperienced cook. Lesego Semenya’s Dijo mixes tips on traditional South African dishes with advice on how to plate like a Michelin chef, and is enlivened with beautiful photography and stories from both the much-loved chef’s Soweto childhood and his high-flying culinary career. We also recommend David Higgs’ gorgeous Mile 8, a 330-page book that is so beautifully presented it can double up as a coffee table book. Packed with recipes from the famous chef’s career at some of South Africa’s most celebrated restaurants, plus invaluable tips on ingredients and techniques, Mile 8 is also an autobiography of a chef’s life. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Spas & Salons Joburgers like to be pampered and there’s no shortage of salons, spas and nail bars to be found across the city.

GROOMING

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Morningside

AESTHETICS ON 5TH Book an appointment at this highly recommended exclusive medical aesthetics consulting practice tucked into upmarket Hyde Park. For professional and specialised advice and rejuvenating treatments to combat ageing and help you look your absolute best. From filler injections to laser treatments and thermage skin tightening, if it works you'll find it here.Q3A 5th Rd, Hyde Park, +27 11 788 7910, aestheticson5th.co.za Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat,Sun. LEGENDS BARBERSHOP The barbershop of choice for South Africa’s young black celebrities, Legends was founded by young entrepreneur Sheldon Tachell in 2011 in Soweto and now boasts regular high profile clients such as rappers Nasty C and Cassper Nyovest and hip hop star Riky Rick.QWorkshop Newtown, cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 66 232 0019, tlbs.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00.

POLISH A haven for hands and feet, this is a pampering and professional nail spa in a designer setting. For a quickie, try the express treatment or indulge in the spa version. Threading is also on offer and Polish has a little gift section too.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Wells and Jan Smuts Aves, Parkwood, polishnailspa.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun.

SPAS & MASSAGE AMANI With a rooftop location on the sixth floor of the Hyatt Regency Johannesburg Hotel this is the place to retreat for a slice of calm in busy Rosebank. Signature treatments include the Jewel of Africa Massage, 90 min­utes focused on complete relaxation, and the Amani Cocoon, a nourishing full body exfoliation and wrap accompanied by a head and foot massage.QK‑12, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–18:00.

FAIRLAWNS SPA Set in a bamboo grove replete with the calming sounds of bird calls and running water, this five-star Balinese spa will have you wishing you had nowhere else to go anytime soon. Features include a traditional Japanese sentō bath and private Thai sala (open pavilions), plus signature natural clays and oils used for the wide range of treatments.

QFairlawns Boutique Hotel, 1 Alma Rd, Morningside, Sandton, tel. +27 11 808 7300, fairlawns.co.za/spa.

Open 08:00-19:00, treatments start at 09:00. Sundays and public holidays 09:00-17:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FOUR SEASONS SPA THE WESTCLIFF The search for serenity should lead here. Book a single treatment or a package and make use of this luxury spa's facilities that include his and her’s steam rooms and saunas. A wraparound outdoor lap pool and a jacuzzi that hugs the post-treatment relaxation room are more reasons to stay on. Your treatment time starts with a relaxing foot ritual and you even have the option of choosing the accompanying genre of music.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6450, fourseasons.com/johannesburg/spa. Open 09:00–20:00.

THE FAIRWAY SPA The last thing you would expect to find in Joburg’s West Rand suburbia, just 20 minutes drive from Sandton Central, is this serene resort hotel overlooking the Randpark Golf Course. The Fairway’s relaxing spa has enough treatments on offer to keep you busy all day including hydrotherapy, massages or enjoy some pampering in the beauty salon with facials, manicures and pedicures all on the menu.QThe Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort, Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, thefairwayspa.co.za.

THE SAXON SPA An ultra-luxe favourite, once the fluffy gown is on, the cares of the outside world will seem very far away. This tranquil retreat is the perfect hideaway if you have a few hours to spare. The Saxon Spa also merges healing natural elements into its luxurious design such as beautiful locally handcrafted chandeliers made from Himalayan salt.QK‑9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon. co.za/the-spa. Open 08:00–21:00.

February – April 2019

63

A

B Rosebank (6.5km) Sandton (15km)

C

1

D Parktown

Joubert

al S t

Eloff St

 Fox St

17

Rissik St

Ow lS e

St Hook

Joubert St

St

ulu Rd

13

6 Loveday St

St

st

We

Hall St

G S P

Albertina Sis Fraser St

o St

Ferreira St

St

St

ph St 

Helen Jose

Maclaren

Ntemi Pilis

Marshall

on  Anders

Kerk St

Pritchard St

Main St

5

Main St

Loveday

me St

Kort St

to St

r St

9  Commissione 21

14

St Simmonds

Ka Isaka Se

o St

Park Driv

St Hospital

Eloff St

Rissik St



 Pixley

Ntemi Pilis

St

e

g

akeba St

Gerard Seko

St

all

St Alexander

rson

Hubert St

nde

t St

Shaf

Main A

Harrison St

rid

7

11 rsh

B

St  e Villiers

Plein St

 Rahim

10

Ferreirasdorp

Rd Reef

Joubert St 

St h Bridg

aB

to St Gerard Seko

Helen Joseph St 

Ma

St Loveday

Simmonds

Elizabet

d el

Pine Ave

Rd

Loveday St

St Queen

n Man

8

on St

St

Sophie de

rwebi St

Newtown St a Moosa M Miriam

t

Quinn S

Lilian Rd

Central Rd

Mint Rd

6

Barney Sim

Leyds St

Gwigwi M

t

Ex

vd Western Bl

6

Simmonds

Biccard St  Melle St

Juta St 

N e l so

yi St 

Fordsburg

Pioneer Rd

De Beer St

Station St

4

Lilian Ngo

De Korte

D

Carr St

5

rwebi St

Gwigwi M

2

May Rd

Bertha St

Henri St 

t St

3

Carr St

Fountain Rd Clare Rd

Eendrach

4

2

Albertina Sisulu

5

1

3



5

3 4 2 De Korte St

e

12

Rd

 outh M1 S orth 1N M

Smit St 

ebe Rd

Commercial

e

Jorissen St

2

Smit St 

Entertainment Stanley Beer Yard The Orbit Live Music & Bistro Goliath Comedy Club Market Theatre Joburg Theatre PopArt Theatre & The Bioscope Independent Cinema

Dolly Rath

 Jorissen St

St

Stiemens St

3

Rd

Enoch Sontong a Av

Ameshoff

2

Yale

4

Hoofd St

Braamfontein

Shopping Complexes 1 44 Stanley 2 Oriental Plaza 3 Newtown Junction & Work Shop New Town

1 2 3 4 5 6

1

St Ext

Jan

Rd

ve

t ne An

3

Sam Hancoc

Sm ut sA

2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

go n

ve

Dia

yA

t

Kay S t Thor pe S t God frey St

Village Rd

Soweto (27km)

way axi aT

Rd ns

Selby C

oy se

B



Bo

A

P at

ath Mb

 M2 East est

 M2 W

D

Eloff St Ext

1

d

1

Attractions Constitution Hill Origins Centre Wits Art Museum The Grove Museum Africa Workers’ Museum SAB World of Beer Sci-Bono Discovery Centre Chancellor House First Chinatown 1 Fox Precinct Hamidia Mosque Rand Club Johannesburg City Library Carlton Centre Johannesburg Art Gallery Gandhi Square The Cosmopolitan Arts on Main Emirates Airline Park Main Street Mining District

oa

e Rd

nle

ns R

Ave ria cto Vi

Empir

Sta

Quee

St Andrews Rd

E

F

e

a Av

oth

is B

G

H

Rockey St

Raleigh St

N

Cla

Bezuid St Fit z

t Av 

r

ille

t

Charl

10

St

er

Vo

Troyeville

t

be

ek

S ce

4

n

e lar

St

Jeppestown

C

St

a Sisulu

Berea Rd

Phillip St

End St

Nugget St

 Goud St

Mooi St

on St

 Anders

Greene St

 Troye St

Kruis St

dis St Von Bran

St Marshall 7 St on rs de  An St Frederick

o rh

d

uR

isul

na S

erti

Alb

o

Ov

Maboneng 19

issioner St

 Comm

Main St

con

Albertin

Sisulu Rd 

 Fox St

t



Albertina

Bea

ek S

ph

Helen Jose

 Va n Be

Polly St

gh St

New Doornfontein St 

Pritchard St

St 

es St

ut



Staib

t

ly S

se Mo

ane

ark L

th P

Sou

r St

St

M

Lo

St

Bertrams

Erin

ren d

on

Pla c

e

Joe Slovo Rd

St

Ellis Park Precinct

Staib S

ewrig h

Siv

S

ey St

Erro

8

3

ro y

St

20

Curr

t

Kerk St Delvers St

Von Weilli

Kruis St

a Moosa

 Rahim

15

Dora

St

t

yi St 

vies S

Plein St 

 Da

De Villier

Lilian Ngo

d

ieme rt S

s St

 End St

Twist St

ge St

Klein St

King Geor

rs St

Hancock St Bruyn St Sophie de

t St

ell St



Koch St

Heigh

Sherw

Claim St

Quartz St

Wandere

16

Bok St

Beit St

t Nind S

Leyds St

St Browning St St ia Mordaunt or t et sS Pr ce t in aS Pr in t elm t d tS ilh eS s R 1s W t w am St St dS Janie St Da ns s rtr Ha 2n ie Be t St S dr rt An 3rd fo Gus St St Janie St au Be 4th St Madison St Gus St 5th t St St sS Macintyre St 6th ou Madison St G 7th St St  Auret St ey 8th w St Ver Uppe Betty St r Ros 9th ay s w ail Albrecht St rR pe ay Maritzburg St Up ailw ngle St rR A  Kruger St we  Lowe r Ro ss

W

Pierse

St olmarans

Gandhi Square Precinct

St

Doornfontein

Smit St 

Bruyn St

2

t Rd Asco d

by R r e D Rd n r ou Millb

le Lidd

ll St

St

Louisa

1

Dr

St

Av

v

aA

og

rat

Hotels and hostels The Bannister Hotel Once In Joburg Protea Hotel Parktonian City Lodge Hotel Newtown rt Faircity Mapungubwe Hotel Reef Hotel Urban Backpackers Hallmark House Curiocity Hostel The Troyeville Hotel

r St nte Hu e Rd d rac r e T ea R Ber n Rd ordo G 

Charlton Terrace

Sa

t

sS

nd

Gordon Terrace

e

ld Rd

Jolly St

South Ln

Terrac

Hadfie

Ockerse St

Natal St

hla

Hig

Percy St

ly St O’Reil ect Rd Prosp

se Primro

Kapteijn St

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Durban Rd

Hendon

Joe Slovo Dr

ne Catheri

 Banket

Klein St

Edith Cave

 Twist St

Esselen Rd

St

Bellevue East

St e wa

Harley St

Abel S

Soper

Kenmere Rd

St

Fortesque Rd

Minors St

t

Hillbrow

Kotze St

Olivia

v

e St

erw Van der M

St 

pe Rd

St

Pretoria St

Grafton Rd

t

Joel S

Fife A

Goldreich

dra Alexan

Page St

Saunders St 

ato St

 Barn

Becker St

 Webb St

Tudho

Rd

Caroline

ck St



Yeoville

Berea

e St Beatric

 Claim St

Bruce St



Lane

 Park

St Doris

enhou

t St

Lou

18

issioner St

 Comm

Rd

 Fox St

9

6

Main St

 Fox St

Main St

Marshall

St Joh Park nP ag eD riv e

St

Park St

Fawcus St

Jules St

5

Albert St  Durban St

Salisbury St

Cresc

ent

6

an

erp

bilee Wemmer Ju

Droste

School St

mm

We

Cornelius St

Melrose St

M2 East 

New Chinatown (7km) OR Tambo International Airport (20km)

 M2 West

E

F

G

H

r

Rd

l kP

boo llow Wi rd a

W ie

R

t

d Main R

o

R iv

r Dr Fisch e

Ea s t Av e

ve

Ri

rro

Ha

Braam

Ma

Wi

Dr oro MARLBORO STATION

WYNBERG

SANDTON STATION St rine the Ka

ford

Ox Rd

ROSEBANK CITY CENTRE SOWETO

Louis Botha Ave

SANDTON CENTRAL

Dr

Av

on

t on

Gra

N3

rlb

KRAMERVILLE

e

e r Av

Dr

d

South Rd

PARKMORE

HYDE PARK

R

pl e

ve

CRAIGHALL PARK

ary

Pretoria Ma in Rd

6t h A ve

r

Kelvin D

nd Bou

yst

e Av

13 Radisson Blu Sandton Hotel

bli

pu

Re

d cR

ts mu

12 Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel

M1

MORNINGSIDE

nS Ja

11 Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton

5th A

10 Michelangelo Hotel

SANDTON

d

da

Ma

ol Rd

9 The Maslow

st R

Ce

E lm

m Nic

Sandton Towers

RANDBURG

Fo re

d

ia R

ac Acc

Rivonia Rd

Willia

5 Garden Court Sandton City

8 Intercontinental Johannesburg

BRYANSTON

Deodar Ln MIDRAND PRETORIA

bar

N1

Inanda Polo Club RIVONIA

1 D um

MONTECASINO

4 Da Vinci Hotel & Suites

7 Holiday Inn Sandton

est

R

3 Courtyard Hotel Sandton

6 Hilton Sandton Hotel ng Rd

dW

Bowling Ave Pl

d

2 The Capital Empire

Im

a pal

aR

Pr o te a Av e

nia

vo

d wR

rd Wi e

FOURWAYS d

ea R

1 AtholPlace Hotel & Villa

14 Sandton Sun

t

Woodmead Dr

Rd

Pr ot

a ni

tS

eS

l

2

Hotels

es

rin

Rd

eP

nD

Gautrain

K W

e ath

t

au

M

Nelson 12 Mandela SquareSandton

Sandton City

Mushroom Farm Park

St

as

n eL pir

to

ll a S te

10

ic Em

nd

Da

13

Al

Sa

7

5

4

14

St 11

ude

de

ed

Fr

8

r

3

St

nD

r

Sandton Convention Centre

ma

St

nD

i sy

r

sto

Pr eto ria A

ve

ia A

tor

Vi c

nD

ay

dE

t

ma

Ln

tS

d Fre

en

es

6

Gr

FNB Conference Centre

d

W

Ma

5 th

d

ia R

y

Bu

on

ra

n sto

n te L

Gw

G

Dr

Riv

SANDTON MAP

th R

9

Be n

Benmore Gardens

mor

e Rd

Nor

ALEXANDRA don

Lon

Rd

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT

llo

Rd

onia

Riv r Rd

le R d

D

i sy

kP

l

Rd

A ve

iel d

St us

ng f

V en

Lin tr i

st

Pa

Ea E a st A v e

n ys

i de R

M e lr o

d

Melrose Arch

11

ra L n

James & Ethel Gray Park se S t

M1

3rd S t 2 nd S

T s

ro

den

l low Rd

ve

1st S

Rd

St

b oo

Da

Wi

We st w d. A ve

Frick e

Rd rd

fo

Ox

Av ck

ddo

Cra

Ch

L au

ve or y A

S

Tweedale Rd

M e l vi l l e R d

4th R d

d

hR

5t Rd on

ri s t

op h

e

Wi

Ave

Ru t h Av e

Ke y e s

as t

ve E 1 st A

Av e

2 nd

D e lta Rd

d wR

rr o

ve

dA for

9 th R d

Rd

6 th

3rd Av e

3rd Av e

Gr eg

ug

Park R d t St

F or

Sun

K e r ni c k A

ey A

h St

Ave

C op l

D e s bo r o

se B l vd

4th

ll Rd

Hig

rs

Gle

ve nho

ve

e

e rs

e Av ce

en Cl ar

d

wA

er Av

4 t h Ave

th R

ll o

P o rt

ve

Wi

l Oakland s R d

Portland Ave

ng ham

n A ve

At ho l

V

A ve

to

da r

10

St

t eS

I lk l e y R

ve

Ave

Bak e

et Rd

Bo lto n Rd

se

d

ss A

Ro

The Zone @Rosebank Rosebank Gautrain el M Rosebank r St Mall

Rosebank

9

ve

ve

Ave h i tt yrw

o o d Av e

a nn A

ve

S ou

r

os e A v e

Bier m

Melrose

aR ci

Edg e w

e coe Av

Ave

Rd

Bath

Do

Ch es ter Rd

lett D

N o r th S t

Cecil Ave

e Ave

Jelli

Rd

t ra l A

y Rd

Bidvest Wanderers Stadium

W r en r

oo d

Keyes Art Mile ve Ty r w h i t t A

7 th Av e

Wanderers Golf Club

Ave

st w

ar

At ho

Rd

r

F ro

a

Dr

Dunkeld

an k

nd

s Rd

R e f orm

Ea

se b

B ou Ce n

Cor

n Ave

Ro

Ce

Ir e n e R d

Rd

rd

C ro

Bo Hu rl i mp ngh as am Rd Rd

Rd

Rd

Illovo

Otto

nD

R iv ersi d e R

Oa k A

nt

S tu r d e

8t h A v e

d

ve

Ke

Atholl

st For e

Str

8

ple Ma

Inanda

Victoria

A ve

th R

Wi e

Inanda Polo Club

5t h A

11

the

St

t

st We

6 t h Av e

d

Rd

Rd

Av e

R

Jameso

1 2 th

ve

5th Ave

in

es

Ha

ala

d Rd

its

ul

d

Har rie

sto

ve

ew Ox

Im p

R ud

Sm

h Rd

R

tR

Rd

Hugh Wyndham Park Hume Rd

ve

ve

ari e

lm

hA

hA

hA

r la n dA ve hA ve

Rd

1s

N or t

m n S uts Ave

13t

sim

Hyde Park

Ja

the

ve

or

rd a

ve

Hyde Park Corner

Ave

1 1t

rgh e A

M

Mi dd

d So u th

nia n

eL ic

Pl

Wie

4th A

r

W

e rin

Pl

d

Rd

W est R

Rivo

e Rd

mor

ve ia A t or

Vic

nd

ela ev Cl

St

nR

xo

Rd

Ka

Sandton Gautrain

Gerha

St

Mushroom Farm Park

ll a

l

3 rd

ter D

Northumberland

eW

Ben

e

Av ia n

Lil

Rd

e Av

r ie

d

Bu

Sa

Sandhurst

Ste

Nelson Mandela Square

Ave

in is

N o rfo lk A ve

1 st Av

eP

St

Sandton Central St

Sandton City

p ir

ude

ve

stm

e

2nd A

Em

Dr

Ma

St

2n d

Av e

t

an

ay

P ret oria A

ve ia A

gin

V ir

e

Av

Rd

Car

We

a

Su

8th Ave

6th Ave

tS

F

e Ln

m re d

Gr

P ro te a A v e

e

Av ym

ss A

ve

rl a nd Ave

Kinro

S u th e

on A ve

Hamilt

ia t ri c Pa

Ol

Ma

ve

le A

o r Av e

ve

rli s

ro a

Ca

th A

don ald M ax w e

pi a

Ch arl All es en Rd Ma dl. R t t ie d Av e

d

nR

gg o

Wa

R ll Mac

Ca w d

te

on

d

E lm

dR

r

Parktown North 4t h S t

Quart

is e

a ti

a rd

e

Av

Ne

d en Lin G ard en R d

A rb

oo

C

St

d

W

L ou

r on

ve

D ger ru

Av

e

Co

es

Bu t

r

e St

ba r

ve

l

Rd

Bucki

Ln

o

W

1 st A

ay A

ge

3rd Av

eP

ry

ys t

enn

D um

est A

da

5 th

ra

d

H i l lcr

pir

r

th R

in D

id av

A dol f S t

St

N or

r nD

e ns t e

St

r n ey

Be

ve

Em

un

G

ve

rid

e

4th A

Bo

Benmore Gardens

Bi ll e r n Rd

t

d

rd R u b

Rd

t

dS

nD

er R

r ion

N

A dr i

Rd

Edw a

Ma

Low

7

sy

Rd

tS

to

12 th S 11 t th S th St t

d

Dai

1s

nd

2n

10

tea R

2n

9 th Av e

5th St

7t 6 th h St 5 th St St

3 rd

mb

Av

9t h S t 8th S t 7th St

Roxbu

12t

10 t

Dr

Pro

icol Dr

Waterfall Ave

Ca

ter

e

Parkhurst

St

se

Rd

e

e

K i lla

e

Rd

ds

Clo

h Sout

nia

William N

Av

as

r po

Rd

z

t re R

vo

ve

ar

Ave

nc al

e

Ce n

Ri

ll A

ag

nor

h es

La

e

Av

Av

St St St

rn A

K

n

rk

lto

Yo

mi

2nd S t 1 st S t e 0th StAv wt hoS

Rd

Av

Ln

en Ave ep

rfa

lbr

t r os e

kie

en

ve

a te Ta

M on

V ic

Gw

F ife A

W

Ri

Craighall Parku f ort Ave

He

ws

lan

s Cre

Morningside

H e l l i ng R d rco Ab e

e

v eA

Sa dre

9th St St

s ve

s A ve

Rot

Ha n

8th

G ro

M

mo

Parkmore

t

e Av le gy Ar Co ma rtie Rd

ve ch

An

ub

l ey

an

tsp

M

Morningside Shopping Centre

Rd

d

e

e

Val

St

L

St

Ou

ck

t

ll R

Av

as

o l lyh

ia S

Hi

d

al

tE

d

Ho

S hr

St

i

lit z

F i r Rd

d

sR

or

th

e Str

ve

R

d

ve

We n dy A Ri

15

Rd

ng

tR

aA

l

9th

nR

t

St

el ia

de n

us A

ws

Av

dr

Ave

A

rg y

v eA

lt S

St

Craighall

v dA

d ll R

d re

Pr un

n

e

es

An

gle

an

si

la s

ex

rn

ug

Al

Do

Bu

I l k le y R d

Braamfontein Spruit S t Al b an

hi

sL

Cr

ea

l

e

th

pa

ay

Ho

ir li va

en ho At

v eA

th S

13

g

ts Ou

e

rd

St Lo Gl

St

B

m al

St

St

nW

t

Av

ide Dr

ain

Bordeaux

do

th

St

lt S

rva

a re Rd

St

an

th

Ho

e in

K ild

S he l l ey A v e

ff o

12

15

ri n

Benmore

Av

M

Io n a Dr

Sta

Sh

8th

Hurlingham

de

Sp

er 14

Pick n Pay on Nicol

Sal i x

Rd

C am

nn

am

Sandton Field and Study Centre

ROSEBANK SANDTON MAP

d cR

Rivers

d eR

sf

d e r b u rg

v ds A e an e r n et C ab

K

Pa

ro

un

Ga r

s

G

sa

res

li

in

re s tC

Cr e s

S

Dr

ub

re

J

dl

ep

C

Al

d

lleg e

Pret

o

t ria S

t

12

t

The Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site

4 million years of fun, only 40km outside Jo’burg All the signs point to you experiencing the incredible. An amazing weekend getaway or days outing at the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. Embark on a journey into the past by escaping to an almost fogotton world of leisure activities - today. Amidst outstanding natural beauty, and the timelessness of this serene and unspoilt landscape, you can come face to face with the origins of human life. It’s time you fitted 4 million years into your busy schedule. Come explore.

For more information contact Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site on +27 (0)11 085 2196 or visit www.thecradleofhumankind.net

Discover 400 fun-filled destinations, 42 000 hectares just 30 minutes from Jo’burg. You can do a whole lot of living where life began!