AW 23/24 Women’s Trends

WOMEN’S TRENDS

ABOUT THIS TAKEAWAY GUIDE

AW 23/24 is a season that will be all about contrasts. Consumers will be seeking to reconcile the uncertainty of an ever-changing world, coupled with the need to feel grounded, comforted, and inspired. From movie-like, daydream-inspired vignettes of daily surroundings to a whole new appreciation for the ancient, mystical wisdom of the universe, it will be a season full of juxtapositions, complex craft, and a strong reconnection to our natural instincts. By loosening the reins on traditional expectations and order, we will be guided to a more authentic place.

Upon this new season, Informa Markets Fashion has partnered with the global forecasting agency FS (Fashion Snoops) to lead the way with an inspiring and informed look at what is happening for AW 23/24 in the womenswear market.

As a complement to the digital discovery session, this guide identifies the four overarching Design Aesthetics that will frame the season. Finding a way to align newness in design with consumer culture, these edited takeaways are meant to inspire and examine how each theme will influence color, silhouette, materials, print and pattern, and key items for the season ahead.

Serdar Camlica

Sven Brandsma

Lauren Probyn

Calida Garcia Rawles

MYSTIC

The Mystic Design Aesthetic conjures up new ways to conceal and ultimately reveal new and unexpected silhouettes and moody design elements. While capes are layered on the outside, beneath the body is sculpted with corsetry and erotic necklines. The use of highgloss materials adds to the mystique, bringing a new sultry vision of sex appeal even to familiar shapes. As social lives flourish, occasionwear also plays a major role with glamorous going-out attire.

Aya Muse

La^n

Marina Moscone

The bewitching shades in MYSTIC cast a darkly romantic spell, with hues like Bloodstone, Coal, Nocturnal, Jade, and Skyfall breathing new life into seasonal jewel tones—more mysterious than they are opulent. The entire palette is a modern day gothic tale with elements of earth, water, and air. There are witchy-inspired colors like Enchantment, Spanish Moss, Compost, Neon Night, and Pomegranate that float from the cosmos to the terrain, while delicate tones like Cool Taupe, Awaken, Heavenly, and Nautilus speak to the immense strength of ethereal pastels—seemingly floating while also feeling grounded.

Alexander Young

Linda Westin

Jade

CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

INTEGRATED CAPES

Garments embrace hybrid designs with veiled elements. Concealed cape-like sleeves extend the application beyond outerwear to knits, woven tops and dresses.

SENSUAL CORSETS

Y2K-approved corsets and bustiers are leveraged with hard and soft elements such as leather corsets against jersey or lace.

SUBVERSIVE NECKLINES

Ultra sexy necklines include the return of the sweetheart as well as extreme plunge and sculpted shapes.

Lustrous and fetish-worthy PVC and faux leather give off a slick and chic appearance on items like overcoats and leggings with shiny surfaces.

SURFACE FETISH

Proenza Schouler

Dion Lee

Burberry

Maisie Wilen

YOUNG CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

HI-LO STYLING

Casual denim is combined with fancy mesh and satin to create the perfect hi-lo look on co-ord tops and jeans.

GLAM DRESSES

All-over sequin and jewelled fabrics work as the perfect base for occasion dresses.

EXPOSED CUTOUTS

All product classifications from knitwear to wovens, dresses and bottoms are fair game for cutouts placed on the sides or center of garments.

Embellishment and feathers land on special occasion mini dresses and going-out tops for an overt sense of opulence.

JEWELLED & FEATHERED

Aleali May

Mugler

Death By Dolls

16Arlington

TONAL ASSORTMENTS

Dramatic monochrome looks are complete with tonal additions such as sleek leather knee-highs and velvety clutches in deep burgundy hues.

SLICED LEATHER

Soft supple leather is sliced to slouch for a deconstructed feel on elegant opera glove assortments.

SLICK BOOTIE

Rich gemstone colorways elevate highshine patent leather booties with pointed toes and skinny martini heels.

Detailed antique-inspired locks arrive alongside shiny textured surfaces on rounded mini-bag silhouettes.

CARVED CLOSURE

Stella McCartney

Koche

Genny

Acne Studios

MATERIALS

Material newness expresses a strikingly elaborate nature and whimsical spirit.

Jacquards and brocades seem to carry the same drama and charm as scenes depicted from an age-old fairytale.

Dark, inky glazes sink into hard or soft surfaces for a grounded almost night-inspired quality. Metallic yarns also work in a similar effect to excite and awe otherwise classic materials.

On the surface, these leathers offer a richly-colored appeal, but also support sustainable efforts thanks to chrome-free tanning or vegetable dyes.

Base layers continue to push construction boundaries with superlight but warming constructions. Opt for a delicate framework of micro gauge yarns that update sheers.

Conceria di Urgnano

David Kona

Bottega Veneta

Malhia Kent

TAPESTRY INSPIRED JACQUARDS METALLIC YARNS & COATINGS

CHROME FREE LEATHERS

SUPERFINE GAUGE KNITS

SUPERNATURAL SPECKLE

Deep jewel tones illuminate from the dark nocturnal backgrounds showcasing the intricate patterns that emerge through a spellbinding cloud of supernatural energy.

METAMORPHOSIS NIGHTBLOOMS NOCTURNAL TROPICS

Awakened from cocoons of dream-coated mysticism, butterflies hover between surreal noir and abstract fantasy with a fluttering of printed fascination.

Sleek photo prints, high contrast graphic styles, and fairytale-ready allover patterns embrace the unknown of the night and discover the beauty of fabled blooms.

Sweeping leaves take on a gritty wash of blurred formation, allowing the print to transform with a shadowed effect, swaying gently amongst whispers of fabled enchantment.

COS

David Kona

Oysho

Eiko Ai

KEY TAKEAWAYS

HARNESS THE UNSEEN

By breaking free from our traditional ways of thinking and doing, we just might be able to stumble into the next great idea, innovation, or piece of art.

PROVOKE AWE

Think of how you can sprinkle some ‘magic’ into the everyday and provoke awe. Infuse moments of whimsy or a sense of play into visuals and language to elevate the mood.

DON’T BE AFRAID OF THE DARK

Make moments of moodiness more palatable by bringing in hints of levity, and invite your audience to explore these new worlds and ideas with open curiosity.

Designer Credit: Bevza

POETIC 2

Womenswear continues to gravitate towards simple staples that never really go out of style. Here we consider fabrics that are timeless and stand the test of time in an always-relevant wardrobe. A focus on knitwear champions novelty craftsmanship and set co-ordinates. Core shirting and classic patterns are also fair game for the everyday wardrobe, in addition to lofty outerwear.

Charlotte Lapalus

Agnieszka Kulesza and Lukasz Pik

The colors in POETIC are like rippling fragments of heart and imagination, full of earnestness and warmth. The left side of the palette represents the more eclectic part of a daydream, with Hazel, Oolong, Greige, Winter Sun, and Cherry Ice providing a kind of retro-inspired respite from the discord of everyday life. Brick, Introspect, and Baguette give us feelings of kindheartedness, while a temperate group of blues like Cascade, Aizome, Stormy Sky, and Ice go through a deep depth of emotions–from calmness and serenity to sincerity and gloom. Finally, some of the cooler pastels are a necessary balance to the warmer browns, emphasizing a wide range of sentiments

Hazel Brick Greige

Cascade Stormy Sky Oolong

Winter Sun Teak Baguette

Jochen Muehlenbrink

Rich Stapletonn

Rich Stapleton

CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

SOFTENED LINES

A relaxed approach to everyday design is realized through bottoms with crease details, while structured elements bridge the line between shirting and tailoring.

COZY OUTERWEAR

Timeless winter fabrics like boucle and nubby tweeds land on roomy overcoats or blanket style coats, as well as tailored blazers.

CONSCIOUS DENIM

Sustainable fibers and ecological processes drive new denim fabric production, while a focus on workwear translates to stonewashed surfaces and designs that recycle existing denim.

Knitwear is embedded as a key part of everyday wardrobes, merchandised as set co-ordinates that feel artisanal with patchwork techniques that mimic quilting.

MADE + CRAFTED

Recto

Petar Petrov

Greg Lauren

Chloe

In addition to shackets, shirtdresses are offered set to oversized fits or snatched waists for an amplified daytime option.

Traditional plaids and checks emerge, set to flannel materials on jackets and coats for a vintage-inspired look.

KNIT SETS

The knitted set steps away from cozy loungewear and takes on a more dressed up look with items like the cardigan and button-up skirts.

Patchwork quilt jackets are updated with retro inspired panels in boxy silhouettes that give a perfect dose of novelty and nostalgia.

NOVELTY OUTERWEAR

Obey

MaisonCleo

Urban Outfitters

Rollas Jeans

PREPPY SHIRTING

CLASSIC FLANNELS

HARDCASE BAGUETTE

Structured leather pairs seamlessly with oblong baguette silhouettes, topped off with adjustable skinny straps for easy takes on new heritage.

CRAFTED KEEPSAKE

Chunky gold chains encircle charming keepsake pendants on simple necklaces for a renewed take on heirlooms.

PEEP TOE LOAFER

Sleek leather, peep toe openings, and buckle detailing offer a reinvented take on classic loafer assortments.

Retro-inspired optical frames find receive modern updates with oversized matte frames in warm beige tones.

Jil Sander

Chloe

Coach

Louis Vuitton

TONAL READERS

VINTAGE DENIMS

Surfaces that invite touch with brushed finishes, slubby yarns and novel embroidery treatments are welcomed updates for outerwear.

Vintage denims are updated with organic cotton blends and lowered water usage. For finishes, a rustic simplicity is conveyed through uneven techniques.

HEIRLOOM-INSPIRED QUILTING

Quilting designed to comfort the mind and soothe the soul with familiar techniques updated with biodegradable fillings and new plaid.

Paying respect to humble ingredients, organic cotton, hemp, merino wool and flax are left raw and uncomplicated for crafted cable knits and simple wovens.

NOVEL WOOLENS

CRAFTED CABLES

Hannah Robinson

Lanificio Bigagli

Nili Lotan

Fromwhere

Smooth yet tactile compositions create a modern update to classic color block prints, offering a new take on palette-cleansing camouflage.

Intricate geometrics and Americana motifs showcase the whimsical charm of keepsake craft this season.

Simple yet playful graphics and patchwork-inspired patterns nod to Bauhaus-tinged craft.

Classic tartans, soft buffalo checks, and traditional plaid receives a clouded coating of whimsy blurring boundaries and easing silhouettes with a cozy comfort.

Acme Studio

And Daughter

Skall Studio Masha Maria

LAYERED CADENCE

PLAID VIGNETTE

BAUHAUS BEAT

KEEPSAKE CHARM

KEY TAKEAWAYS

TELL YOUR STORY

Engage on an emotional level to make your audience part of the message. Leverage modern mediums, from video to haptics, to construct an environment where fantasy and reality collide

ELEVATE THE FAMILIAR

Think of ways to bring new purpose or a second life to objects; and look to unexpected details, materials, and inner narratives. Honor the connections between the user and product

LEAD WITH YOUR INSTINCTS

Create environments that heighten the senses and provide plenty of room and time for introspection. Embrace the process of discovery by making it okay to fail.

Designer Credit: Proenza Schouler

UNTAMED

In Untamed, we mimic the natural world through design with elements that speak to protection. Sustainable furs offer a literal take, while irregular or fuzzy knits embrace imperfections. Natureinspired prints make a statement, while convertible outerwear brings practical function.

Sophie Pinet

Acne Studios

Aline De Beauclaire

Yasmeen Rena

The colors in UNTAMED are equal parts gritty and graceful, deep and delicate a palette that’s somewhat uneasy on the senses with a chaotic, disheveled presence. Compost, Willow, Supernatural, Ochre, and Greige are impactful greens and taupes that go from lush to dry, but they emphasize an all-natural appeal. Fire, Burlwood, and

Winter Sun inject a much-needed naivety into an otherwise grainy group of hues, while Teak, Raisin, Timber, Cherry Ice, Grit Grey, and Black represent the angst-filled parts of our personality.

Burlwood

Esna Su

Tobias Nicolai

Ian Collings

Compost

CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

SUSTAINABLE WARMTH

As there is a considerable shift towards sustainable solutions, faux and vegan furs are a driver for the comeback of fur looks on statement winter outerwear.

ORGANICALLY DRAPED

As an abstract interpretation of nature and organic growth, draped jersey lands on tops, skirts and dresses in solid earthy tones.

IRREGULAR KNITWEAR

Sweaters feature a renewed interest in imperfect stitches such as marled or space dyed techniques. Irregular surfaces also translate to nubby tweed fabrics on outerwear and tailoring.

WRAPPED CONVERTIBILITY

Wrapped convertibility illustrates the progression of utility and convertible items with deconstructed lines and quilted textures across most classifications.

By Malene Birger

Johanna Ortiz

Acne Studios Lemaire

YOUNG CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

Puffers are updated with new A-line silhouettes and quirky quilting techniques that embrace surrealism.

Graphic mesh is amplified this season with nature-inspired abstracts and animal prints. Silhouettes hug the body, making this a great piece to stand alone, or layer under.

FELTED & BRUSHED

Tapping into the trend of novelty knitwear, felted and brushed surfaces take a cue from animated characters for a fun new take.

Eco friendly dyes, upcycled denim, and collaged materials create this patched up DIY look that feels vintage and youthful.

STATEMENT PUFFER

Moncler & DingYun Zhang

Obianujueo

Nong Rak

Shein

DIY DENIM

GRAPHIC MESH

ACCESSORIES

Foregoing predictability and embracing imperfection, subversive pieces such as deconstructed scarves and chain layered chokers are paired together for maximum grunge effect.

Asymmetric silhouettes are further deconstructed with engineered distressing on chunky ribbed knits.

Exaggerated thigh high boots receive a grunge update thanks to slouchy detailing, glossy leather, and flat lugged soles.

Natural stone patterning decorates warped resin for an earthen take on statement hoop earrings.

DECONSTRUCTED LAYERS

DISTRESSED RIB KNIT

SLOUCHY THIGH HIGHS

CARVED RESIN

Acne Studios

Acne Studios

AC9

Panconesi

WOOLY FELTS

From a performance standpoint, plantbased alternatives continue to gain traction. The same holds true for trims, labels and closures that all explore these organic alternatives.

Stylistic alternatives to compost-inspired materials mimic the wild organic nature of root systems in tangled yarn forms and marled interest.

Revered for its natural thermoregulating properties, wool is updated to be more raw and unmanipulated in naturally felted compositions.

Accepting all the flaws and irregularities of the process, techniques embrace a more spontaneous sensibility. Surfaces appear unraveled from aggressive distressing that exposes the inner yarn.

PLANT-BASED LEATHERS

TANGLED KNITS

DISTRESSED BASES

Stefanie Salzmann

Mirum

Vitelli

Acne Studios

Untamed florals and spawned mutations take hold with a colorboosted impression of overgrown nature.

Animal instinct merges with ultraorganic speckles for a textural update to traditional spotted patterns, complete with dramatic colorways.

Fiery prints invite a visceral warmth of activated color and spirited movement as an energetic new way to do abstract allovers.

Complex carvings with a highcontrast appeal sit alongside more artistic portrayals of watercolorwashed lines and metallic-infused prints.

MORPHED NATURE

MODERN BARK VISCERAL WARMTH

SPOTTED SYNESTHESIA

Gestuz

Rolf Ekroth

Filippa K

Ganni

KEY TAKEAWAYS

FORAGE & FABRICATE

Encourage circularity by offering your consumers creative mending tutorials and ways to update your products with dyes and embellishments from foraged materials

LEVERAGE UNDERGROUND WISDOM

Immerse your audience in the magic of the underground through the powerful ingredients and eco-friendly materials that can be derived from fungi and soil microbes

LEAN INTO DISCOMFORT

Shying away from critical conversations may distance your brand from the increasingly conscious consumer. Consider providing room on your platforms to amplify influential voices that are demystifying taboo topics

Designer Credit: Ulla Johnson

PARADOX 4

Paradox brings to light directional shapes that recall 90s and early Y2K nostalgia. In womenswear this is interpreted through minimalism with updated versions of tube and column shapes, as well as new basics and minis. The young contemporary market pairs bulky jackets with sexy tops for a look that's reminiscent of early candid street style.

Miu Miu

Oscar Niemeyer

Coperni

Sportmax

The colors in PARADOX are like a visual push and pull of tones and shades that reflect the many contradictions of modern life. Sweet-natured pastels like Lucite, Snowdrop, Introspect, Latte, and Ice are highlighted and underscored in a more powerful way when sitting next to brights like Cherry Ice, Fizzle, Neon Night, Butterscotch, and Polaris. A small but impactful group of neutrals further ground an otherwise prismatic palette. The chromatic experiment in weight and intensity illustrates how opposites coming together are made even stronger.

Aizome

Romain Lenancker

Jose Dávila

Romain Lenancker

CONTEMPORARY KEY ITEMS

SIMPLE & STRAPLESS

Long and lean strapless silhouettes channel minimalism best. Column shapes apply to dresses but also extend to tube tops, in to both wovens and jersey knits.

00s NOSTALGIA

Micro mini silhouettes in both skirts and dresses speak to the early aughts. Schoolgirl styling is achieved by pairing mini skirts with long sleeve fitted crop tops.

NEW UNIFORMS

The new basics are defined by the comeback tank top and low-slung denim, which could be styled as either a casual or dressed up look.

Logos surface as a crucial way for brands to make basics stand out, from logos on jersey tops to even undergarments peeking out from low rise skirts.

LOGOMANIA

Ludovic De Saint Sernin

Coperni

Bottega Veneta

Prada

PUMPED UP DENIM

Oversized and ultra baggy jackets and jeans are positioned as statement styles that harp back to the late 90s and Y2K.

FUTURE CASUAL

Casual dressing takes on elevated design details such as bodysuits with cutouts or denim with exposed thong details.

JUMBO VEST

An update for the oversized puffer jacket sees the vest take on blown up proportions.

DIGITIZED DYES

Easy tees and mesh tops explore digitized dyes set to ultra long sleeves or thumb cut outs for a Y2K look.

Greyhound

Didu

Nadia Idder

Bella Cohen

WARPED PROPORTIONS

Warped detailing on oversized totes and statement earrings stands out against sleek ensembles with modern future flair.

SCULPTED HEEL

Architectural platform heels crafted in stacked wood, support a sleek minimalist construction on over the ankle boots.

HIGH SHINE CROSSBODY WRAP AROUND SHADES

Molded shapes, hardshell bodies, and ultra-shine finishes merge on statement crossbodies with a futurefacing feel.

Goggle-inspired shades find newness with wrap-around silhouettes and tinted lenses in high-contrast colorways.

Y Project Published By Laquan Smith Peter Do

PERFORMANCE SHELLS

High performing abrasion resistance shells maintain a higher level of use. Recycled superlight insulations that mimic the compressibility of goose down are key.

REFLECTIVES

Digitally-inspired takes on reflectives emerge with customizable printed overlays and brighter bases. Allover interpretations for a dramatic luster.

Peppermint finishes and other softeners present a unique opportunity to inject otherwise straightforward technical materials with an abundance of functional benefits.

Evolving popular technical materials for colder seasons, satin jerseys and body hugging knits adopt a crisper finish, denser hand and more streamlined approach.

FUTURE REWIND

Super saturated and nearly neon stripes restructure as modern chevrons and gritty marble graphic prints.

RADIATION CHECK

Classic checkerboard patterns take on a dimensional spin, creating an opportunity for squares to shift, blend and blur with a modern refresh.

SPECTRUM STRIPES

High intensity stripes with a spectrumdefying vibration create an ultra-modern appeal allowing the pigments to shift between dazzling ombré dyes to radiating color blocks.

SURREALIST COLLAGE

Otherworldly prints and playful graphics recreate classic collage styles with a surrealist sensibility.

Stine Goya

Agr Knit

Reece Cooper

Aya Shalkar

KEY TAKEAWAYS

THINKING PHYGITALLY

Augment brick-and-mortar retail with digital flexibility, and elevate e-commerce with interactive 3D experiences. Offer your customers a blended experience that maintains ease and consistency no matter the channel

ACTIVATE OPTIMISM

Bring a sense of relief to your audience by incorporating playful irony. Leverage retrofuturistic aesthetics to inspire an optimistic outlook and spark the imagination

MOBILIZE PARADOX THINKING

The in-between Paradox space can lead to innovation by challenging us to think in new ways. Consider how your company can incorporate paradox thinking into design strategies and external engagement

Designer Credit: Gauchere

UNPACK THE TRENDS

Take a deeper dive into the concepts and key products presented in this guide at our digital discovery sessions, featuring FS' trend experts

AW 23/24 Women’s Trends

AW 23/24 Men’s Trends SS 24 Apparel Sourcing Trends

Michael Fisher

Vice President, Men’s Fashion Snoops

Melissa Moylan

Vice President, Women’s Fashion Snoops

Nia Silva Director, Materials Fashion Snoops

Each FS Edit for Men + Women will act as a guiding blueprint for the season, inspired by our Design Aesthetics, which provides actionable considerations for AW 23/24.

Discover emerging themes in material innovations that will influence trends and new color direction across apparel, footwear and accessories for SS 24.