WOMEN’S TRENDS



AW 23/24 is a season that will be all about contrasts. Consumers will be seeking to reconcile the uncertainty of an ever-changing world, coupled with the need to feel grounded, comforted, and inspired. From movie-like, daydream-inspired vignettes of daily surroundings to a whole new appreciation for the ancient, mystical wisdom of the universe, it will be a season full of juxtapositions, complex craft, and a strong reconnection to our natural instincts. By loosening the reins on traditional expectations and order, we will be guided to a more authentic place.
Upon this new season, Informa Markets Fashion has partnered with the global forecasting agency FS (Fashion Snoops) to lead the way with an inspiring and informed look at what is happening for AW 23/24 in the womenswear market.
As a complement to the digital discovery session, this guide identifies the four overarching Design Aesthetics that will frame the season. Finding a way to align newness in design with consumer culture, these edited takeaways are meant to inspire and examine how each theme will influence color, silhouette, materials, print and pattern, and key items for the season ahead.
The Mystic Design Aesthetic conjures up new ways to conceal and ultimately reveal new and unexpected silhouettes and moody design elements. While capes are layered on the outside, beneath the body is sculpted with corsetry and erotic necklines. The use of highgloss materials adds to the mystique, bringing a new sultry vision of sex appeal even to familiar shapes. As social lives flourish, occasionwear also plays a major role with glamorous going-out attire.
The bewitching shades in MYSTIC cast a darkly romantic spell, with hues like Bloodstone, Coal, Nocturnal, Jade, and Skyfall breathing new life into seasonal jewel tones—more mysterious than they are opulent. The entire palette is a modern day gothic tale with elements of earth, water, and air. There are witchy-inspired colors like Enchantment, Spanish Moss, Compost, Neon Night, and Pomegranate that float from the cosmos to the terrain, while delicate tones like Cool Taupe, Awaken, Heavenly, and Nautilus speak to the immense strength of ethereal pastels—seemingly floating while also feeling grounded.
Garments embrace hybrid designs with veiled elements. Concealed cape-like sleeves extend the application beyond outerwear to knits, woven tops and dresses.
Y2K-approved corsets and bustiers are leveraged with hard and soft elements such as leather corsets against jersey or lace.
Ultra sexy necklines include the return of the sweetheart as well as extreme plunge and sculpted shapes.
Lustrous and fetish-worthy PVC and faux leather give off a slick and chic appearance on items like overcoats and leggings with shiny surfaces.
Casual denim is combined with fancy mesh and satin to create the perfect hi-lo look on co-ord tops and jeans.
All-over sequin and jewelled fabrics work as the perfect base for occasion dresses.
All product classifications from knitwear to wovens, dresses and bottoms are fair game for cutouts placed on the sides or center of garments.
Embellishment and feathers land on special occasion mini dresses and going-out tops for an overt sense of opulence.
Dramatic monochrome looks are complete with tonal additions such as sleek leather knee-highs and velvety clutches in deep burgundy hues.
Soft supple leather is sliced to slouch for a deconstructed feel on elegant opera glove assortments.
Rich gemstone colorways elevate highshine patent leather booties with pointed toes and skinny martini heels.
Detailed antique-inspired locks arrive alongside shiny textured surfaces on rounded mini-bag silhouettes.
Material newness expresses a strikingly elaborate nature and whimsical spirit.
Jacquards and brocades seem to carry the same drama and charm as scenes depicted from an age-old fairytale.
Dark, inky glazes sink into hard or soft surfaces for a grounded almost night-inspired quality. Metallic yarns also work in a similar effect to excite and awe otherwise classic materials.
On the surface, these leathers offer a richly-colored appeal, but also support sustainable efforts thanks to chrome-free tanning or vegetable dyes.
Base layers continue to push construction boundaries with superlight but warming constructions. Opt for a delicate framework of micro gauge yarns that update sheers.
Deep jewel tones illuminate from the dark nocturnal backgrounds showcasing the intricate patterns that emerge through a spellbinding cloud of supernatural energy.
Awakened from cocoons of dream-coated mysticism, butterflies hover between surreal noir and abstract fantasy with a fluttering of printed fascination.
Sleek photo prints, high contrast graphic styles, and fairytale-ready allover patterns embrace the unknown of the night and discover the beauty of fabled blooms.
Sweeping leaves take on a gritty wash of blurred formation, allowing the print to transform with a shadowed effect, swaying gently amongst whispers of fabled enchantment.
By breaking free from our traditional ways of thinking and doing, we just might be able to stumble into the next great idea, innovation, or piece of art.
Think of how you can sprinkle some ‘magic’ into the everyday and provoke awe. Infuse moments of whimsy or a sense of play into visuals and language to elevate the mood.
Make moments of moodiness more palatable by bringing in hints of levity, and invite your audience to explore these new worlds and ideas with open curiosity.
Womenswear continues to gravitate towards simple staples that never really go out of style. Here we consider fabrics that are timeless and stand the test of time in an always-relevant wardrobe. A focus on knitwear champions novelty craftsmanship and set co-ordinates. Core shirting and classic patterns are also fair game for the everyday wardrobe, in addition to lofty outerwear.
The colors in POETIC are like rippling fragments of heart and imagination, full of earnestness and warmth. The left side of the palette represents the more eclectic part of a daydream, with Hazel, Oolong, Greige, Winter Sun, and Cherry Ice providing a kind of retro-inspired respite from the discord of everyday life. Brick, Introspect, and Baguette give us feelings of kindheartedness, while a temperate group of blues like Cascade, Aizome, Stormy Sky, and Ice go through a deep depth of emotions–from calmness and serenity to sincerity and gloom. Finally, some of the cooler pastels are a necessary balance to the warmer browns, emphasizing a wide range of sentiments
A relaxed approach to everyday design is realized through bottoms with crease details, while structured elements bridge the line between shirting and tailoring.
Timeless winter fabrics like boucle and nubby tweeds land on roomy overcoats or blanket style coats, as well as tailored blazers.
Sustainable fibers and ecological processes drive new denim fabric production, while a focus on workwear translates to stonewashed surfaces and designs that recycle existing denim.
Knitwear is embedded as a key part of everyday wardrobes, merchandised as set co-ordinates that feel artisanal with patchwork techniques that mimic quilting.
In addition to shackets, shirtdresses are offered set to oversized fits or snatched waists for an amplified daytime option.
Traditional plaids and checks emerge, set to flannel materials on jackets and coats for a vintage-inspired look.
The knitted set steps away from cozy loungewear and takes on a more dressed up look with items like the cardigan and button-up skirts.
Patchwork quilt jackets are updated with retro inspired panels in boxy silhouettes that give a perfect dose of novelty and nostalgia.
Structured leather pairs seamlessly with oblong baguette silhouettes, topped off with adjustable skinny straps for easy takes on new heritage.
Chunky gold chains encircle charming keepsake pendants on simple necklaces for a renewed take on heirlooms.
Sleek leather, peep toe openings, and buckle detailing offer a reinvented take on classic loafer assortments.
Retro-inspired optical frames find receive modern updates with oversized matte frames in warm beige tones.
Surfaces that invite touch with brushed finishes, slubby yarns and novel embroidery treatments are welcomed updates for outerwear.
Vintage denims are updated with organic cotton blends and lowered water usage. For finishes, a rustic simplicity is conveyed through uneven techniques.
Quilting designed to comfort the mind and soothe the soul with familiar techniques updated with biodegradable fillings and new plaid.
Paying respect to humble ingredients, organic cotton, hemp, merino wool and flax are left raw and uncomplicated for crafted cable knits and simple wovens.
Smooth yet tactile compositions create a modern update to classic color block prints, offering a new take on palette-cleansing camouflage.
Intricate geometrics and Americana motifs showcase the whimsical charm of keepsake craft this season.
Simple yet playful graphics and patchwork-inspired patterns nod to Bauhaus-tinged craft.
Classic tartans, soft buffalo checks, and traditional plaid receives a clouded coating of whimsy blurring boundaries and easing silhouettes with a cozy comfort.
Engage on an emotional level to make your audience part of the message. Leverage modern mediums, from video to haptics, to construct an environment where fantasy and reality collide
Think of ways to bring new purpose or a second life to objects; and look to unexpected details, materials, and inner narratives. Honor the connections between the user and product
Create environments that heighten the senses and provide plenty of room and time for introspection. Embrace the process of discovery by making it okay to fail.
In Untamed, we mimic the natural world through design with elements that speak to protection. Sustainable furs offer a literal take, while irregular or fuzzy knits embrace imperfections. Natureinspired prints make a statement, while convertible outerwear brings practical function.
The colors in UNTAMED are equal parts gritty and graceful, deep and delicate a palette that’s somewhat uneasy on the senses with a chaotic, disheveled presence. Compost, Willow, Supernatural, Ochre, and Greige are impactful greens and taupes that go from lush to dry, but they emphasize an all-natural appeal. Fire, Burlwood, and
Winter Sun inject a much-needed naivety into an otherwise grainy group of hues, while Teak, Raisin, Timber, Cherry Ice, Grit Grey, and Black represent the angst-filled parts of our personality.
As there is a considerable shift towards sustainable solutions, faux and vegan furs are a driver for the comeback of fur looks on statement winter outerwear.
As an abstract interpretation of nature and organic growth, draped jersey lands on tops, skirts and dresses in solid earthy tones.
Sweaters feature a renewed interest in imperfect stitches such as marled or space dyed techniques. Irregular surfaces also translate to nubby tweed fabrics on outerwear and tailoring.
Wrapped convertibility illustrates the progression of utility and convertible items with deconstructed lines and quilted textures across most classifications.
Puffers are updated with new A-line silhouettes and quirky quilting techniques that embrace surrealism.
Graphic mesh is amplified this season with nature-inspired abstracts and animal prints. Silhouettes hug the body, making this a great piece to stand alone, or layer under.
Tapping into the trend of novelty knitwear, felted and brushed surfaces take a cue from animated characters for a fun new take.
Eco friendly dyes, upcycled denim, and collaged materials create this patched up DIY look that feels vintage and youthful.
Foregoing predictability and embracing imperfection, subversive pieces such as deconstructed scarves and chain layered chokers are paired together for maximum grunge effect.
Asymmetric silhouettes are further deconstructed with engineered distressing on chunky ribbed knits.
Exaggerated thigh high boots receive a grunge update thanks to slouchy detailing, glossy leather, and flat lugged soles.
Natural stone patterning decorates warped resin for an earthen take on statement hoop earrings.
From a performance standpoint, plantbased alternatives continue to gain traction. The same holds true for trims, labels and closures that all explore these organic alternatives.
Stylistic alternatives to compost-inspired materials mimic the wild organic nature of root systems in tangled yarn forms and marled interest.
Revered for its natural thermoregulating properties, wool is updated to be more raw and unmanipulated in naturally felted compositions.
Accepting all the flaws and irregularities of the process, techniques embrace a more spontaneous sensibility. Surfaces appear unraveled from aggressive distressing that exposes the inner yarn.
Untamed florals and spawned mutations take hold with a colorboosted impression of overgrown nature.
Animal instinct merges with ultraorganic speckles for a textural update to traditional spotted patterns, complete with dramatic colorways.
Fiery prints invite a visceral warmth of activated color and spirited movement as an energetic new way to do abstract allovers.
Complex carvings with a highcontrast appeal sit alongside more artistic portrayals of watercolorwashed lines and metallic-infused prints.
Encourage circularity by offering your consumers creative mending tutorials and ways to update your products with dyes and embellishments from foraged materials
Immerse your audience in the magic of the underground through the powerful ingredients and eco-friendly materials that can be derived from fungi and soil microbes
Shying away from critical conversations may distance your brand from the increasingly conscious consumer. Consider providing room on your platforms to amplify influential voices that are demystifying taboo topics
Paradox brings to light directional shapes that recall 90s and early Y2K nostalgia. In womenswear this is interpreted through minimalism with updated versions of tube and column shapes, as well as new basics and minis. The young contemporary market pairs bulky jackets with sexy tops for a look that's reminiscent of early candid street style.
The colors in PARADOX are like a visual push and pull of tones and shades that reflect the many contradictions of modern life. Sweet-natured pastels like Lucite, Snowdrop, Introspect, Latte, and Ice are highlighted and underscored in a more powerful way when sitting next to brights like Cherry Ice, Fizzle, Neon Night, Butterscotch, and Polaris. A small but impactful group of neutrals further ground an otherwise prismatic palette. The chromatic experiment in weight and intensity illustrates how opposites coming together are made even stronger.
Long and lean strapless silhouettes channel minimalism best. Column shapes apply to dresses but also extend to tube tops, in to both wovens and jersey knits.
Micro mini silhouettes in both skirts and dresses speak to the early aughts. Schoolgirl styling is achieved by pairing mini skirts with long sleeve fitted crop tops.
The new basics are defined by the comeback tank top and low-slung denim, which could be styled as either a casual or dressed up look.
Logos surface as a crucial way for brands to make basics stand out, from logos on jersey tops to even undergarments peeking out from low rise skirts.
Oversized and ultra baggy jackets and jeans are positioned as statement styles that harp back to the late 90s and Y2K.
Casual dressing takes on elevated design details such as bodysuits with cutouts or denim with exposed thong details.
An update for the oversized puffer jacket sees the vest take on blown up proportions.
Easy tees and mesh tops explore digitized dyes set to ultra long sleeves or thumb cut outs for a Y2K look.
Warped detailing on oversized totes and statement earrings stands out against sleek ensembles with modern future flair.
Architectural platform heels crafted in stacked wood, support a sleek minimalist construction on over the ankle boots.
Molded shapes, hardshell bodies, and ultra-shine finishes merge on statement crossbodies with a futurefacing feel.
Goggle-inspired shades find newness with wrap-around silhouettes and tinted lenses in high-contrast colorways.
High performing abrasion resistance shells maintain a higher level of use. Recycled superlight insulations that mimic the compressibility of goose down are key.
Digitally-inspired takes on reflectives emerge with customizable printed overlays and brighter bases. Allover interpretations for a dramatic luster.
Peppermint finishes and other softeners present a unique opportunity to inject otherwise straightforward technical materials with an abundance of functional benefits.
Evolving popular technical materials for colder seasons, satin jerseys and body hugging knits adopt a crisper finish, denser hand and more streamlined approach.
Super saturated and nearly neon stripes restructure as modern chevrons and gritty marble graphic prints.
Classic checkerboard patterns take on a dimensional spin, creating an opportunity for squares to shift, blend and blur with a modern refresh.
High intensity stripes with a spectrumdefying vibration create an ultra-modern appeal allowing the pigments to shift between dazzling ombré dyes to radiating color blocks.
Otherworldly prints and playful graphics recreate classic collage styles with a surrealist sensibility.
Augment brick-and-mortar retail with digital flexibility, and elevate e-commerce with interactive 3D experiences. Offer your customers a blended experience that maintains ease and consistency no matter the channel
Bring a sense of relief to your audience by incorporating playful irony. Leverage retrofuturistic aesthetics to inspire an optimistic outlook and spark the imagination
The in-between Paradox space can lead to innovation by challenging us to think in new ways. Consider how your company can incorporate paradox thinking into design strategies and external engagement
Take a deeper dive into the concepts and key products presented in this guide at our digital discovery sessions, featuring FS' trend experts
AW 23/24 Men’s Trends SS 24 Apparel Sourcing Trends
Michael Fisher
Vice President, Men’s Fashion Snoops
Melissa Moylan
Vice President, Women’s Fashion Snoops
Nia Silva Director, Materials Fashion Snoops
Each FS Edit for Men + Women will act as a guiding blueprint for the season, inspired by our Design Aesthetics, which provides actionable considerations for AW 23/24.
Discover emerging themes in material innovations that will influence trends and new color direction across apparel, footwear and accessories for SS 24.