As winter settles in, we know that many of our readers –both human and canine – are feeling the chill. This edition is packed with practical advice and heartwarming tales to help you navigate the season with your canine companion with warmth, health and a hefty dose of inspiration.
From our deep dive into dog jackets (spoiler: they’re not just about fashion) to our comprehensive guide to osteoarthritis and Pentosan, this issue is focused on helping your dog live their best life, no matter their age or breed. We’ve also included a fascinating breed profile on the Xoloitzcuintle, and a very special visit to Dogtown SA , where true canine heroes are being rehabilitated and rehomed with compassion and care.
Whether you’re here to learn more about your dog’s health, discover new ways of doing things, or start volunteering for dogs in need, we hope you find something in these pages that speaks to you.
Thank you for being part of the DQ community. Stay warm and give your dog an extra cuddle from us!
With love,
Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor
DIGITAL ISSUE 13B | 2025
Dogtown SA
Saving more lives!
Xoloitzcuintle (Mexican Hairless Dog)
An ancient and elegant breed
The essential guide to dog jackets
Function, fashion, and fit
Osteoarthritis
What you need to know
Pentosan
Modifying the disease process of osteoarthritis
Skin lesions in dogs
What they mean and when to worry
AskDQ
Your questions answered
Products we love
Shopping
SAVING MORE LIVES!
DQ Magazine has long admired the work done by Dogtown SA, and last week we were able to visit the shelter and meet some of the people behind the incredible projects they run there.
With lots more content to come over the next few weeks and months, we wanted to share a bit about the history of Dogtown SA, the way the centre operates and its mission and goals for the future. We hope you enjoy this interview with Elanza from Dogtown (plus the super cute pictures of Joy who came down to join us for the interview!)
DQ: So, how did Dogtown begin?
Elanza: Dogtown started small in 2010. It was started by Tracy, our founder, who, to begin with, wanted just ten kennels or so to help dogs who had nowhere to go, and it exploded from there.
She visited Dogtown in America on holiday, and as soon as she saw it, she knew it was something we needed in South Africa. So she brought that entire design and concept to South Africa to her ‘ten kennels’ and it's been a process to get to where we are, but it all continues to come together. She had a dream and wouldn’t take no for an answer.
DQ: And tell us about the dogs you help?
Elanza: Initially, we wanted to exclusively help dogs that were deemed unhomeable. Many of the shelters had dogs that came in with more significant behavioural problems or even just minor issues, such as jumping up on people, which meant they didn’t get adopted. As many shelters were not equipped to deal with these issues, the dogs often went unadopted. And we wanted to address this.
Even though our mission has evolved and broadened, and we have many dogs here who are ready for adoption upon arrival, we have ensured that all our caregivers are qualified trainers and behaviourists, so we can still meet our original focus goals. This is a significant investment that requires us to conduct weekly workshops and training to achieve qualification for them. We also offer numerous IMDTaccredited courses on-site for both our staff and others interested in attending.
DID YOU KNOW?
Comedian Schalk Bezuidenhout adopted a tiny puppy called Otis from Dogtown. Several years later, he also adopted an adult dog, Finn. In his videos, he often describes Otis, whom he trained himself, as an ‘absolute hooligan’ and Finn, who received lots of training from Dogtown, as the model citizen who even ‘does the dishes’ at night. That’s Dogtown training in action! Look out for Schalk running the Comrades Marathon this year in aid of Dogtown.
The fact that our trainers work in this way is a game-changer for the dogs. Whether they come with bigger problems or no issues at all, it allows us to work with them in a species-specific way that meets their needs. We run a very structured programme that has the dog’s needs front and centre.
DQ: So, how has your mission changed?
Elanza: In the beginning, our focus was really to try and help the dogs deemed ‘problem dogs’, who are just misunderstood, really. Now, we’ll help any dog if we have the space. If there’s a stray, we’ll go and assist, or if somebody passes away and the dog needs a place to go, we’ll help. We currently take in as many dogs as we can manage to our standard. Still, our primary focus remains on the misunderstood dogs, as there aren't many shelters with the experience and resources to effectively help those dogs. The qualified staff here make a big difference for those dogs.
DQ: But I understand that the mission has had its challenges as well?
Elanza: Yes, our mission has been a double-edged sword for us over time because people now know about Dogtown and our specialisation in helping dogs with problems. They love what we do, but when they think of adopting a dog, they don’t rush here as they assume we have the ‘problem’ dogs. We often have dogs like Joy, who are with us for years. They’re wonderful dogs, but people are nervous because they assume they must have problems.
Anyway, that’s something we’re actively trying to educate people on, as it's a stigma that's developed over time. People should just come meet our dogs. I mean, we do have problem dogs, absolutely, but those dogs are not ready to be adopted. They'll get there, but they are not the dogs we’ll be sending home with people now. Once a dog is in the Adorable Adoptable section here, we know they’re ready to go. They’ve been assessed with children, cats, unfamiliar situations, etc, so we're not sending them home to discover later that there's a problem.
DQ: And can you explain the ‘tiers’ across the three octagons?
Elanza: We have three ‘tiers’ of setup. The first one is our ‘Adorable Adoptables’, and that's where all of our dogs, like Joy, go. It’s where the public comes to view the dogs and where volunteers work. For adoptions, we prefer to bring our dogs to the Mutt and Bean Cafe most of the time, so families can meet them in a quiet area with grass, sit, and have a conversation.
And then our next tier is the ‘Work in Progress’, which is for the dogs who have graduated from our rehab programme. They are not quite ready for adoption, but much closer than before.
Finally, we have our ‘Rehab’, which is off-limits to the public and volunteers. The dogs in this area have major behaviour modification programmes in place for whatever reason. If they had a history of biting, for example, they would go into Rehab. The caregivers there work closely with the dogs and conduct thorough assessments. They identify what the problems are and put behavioural programmes in place. They work on an area and then reassess, and then work on another area and reassess until they are happy that the dog is ready to move to ‘Work in Progress’. The exact process is then followed until the dog is ready to go to the ‘Adorable Adoptable’ area.
Then, outside of the tiers, we have our beautiful little retirement village called Shady Pines, where all of our old dogs go. Those dogs mainly belong to people who have passed away, and finding a home for an older dog is so hard. It's very difficult. So that's the little retirement village. It's beautiful, and the dogs there are very peaceful.
DQ: Your programme is very structured. Can you give our readers an idea about what you offer to the dogs as part of that? Elanza: Our dogs have a really nice routine. There's a lot of structure in place. We’re much more than just a shelter. Our dogs receive specific diets tailored to
their individual needs. We stick to Montego, as a base, but they all eat the different quantities that they should be getting. We do the food and the tablets at a set time, and their breakfast is served out of brain toys, to keep them mentally stimulated. They are walked daily, either on a social walk or a solo walk, and we have a comprehensive enrichment programme for the dogs, including a large enrichment garden that offers a variety of enrichment stimuli as well as play areas located at each octagon. They undergo training each morning according to the behavioural programme worked out for them by our qualified behaviourists and receive regular assessments.
The caregivers keep notes on the dogs' progress each day, particularly regarding their training. They need to say precisely what they did with the dogs, what the target was, and what progress is being made. For example, if they are working on basic training with a dog, they won't just train a dog to do a sit and then tick off a sit. They train the sit, then the sit with distractions, on a walk, in an unfamiliar environment, and without a treat, among other scenarios. So, there's a lot that goes into every single dog to build up their good manners and a lot that goes into each day at Dogtown!
DQ: And how many dogs do you have here?
Elanza: We are pro-life, so when we are full, we are full, which is difficult
because there are a lot of dogs who need to come to us and a lot of dogs who need our help. We've only got 71 dogs here at the moment. It's a lot of dogs, but we used to operate on about 150 dogs.
Unfortunately, funding is our problem. We cannot have more dogs than we can afford to give proper care to. If they even show a bit of a limp, they need to go to the vet, etc. Therefore, we need to be realistic about the number of dogs we can cater to at those standards. Currently, we have 71 dogs. We want to increase our number back up to 150, but we need to secure the necessary funding.
DQ: What does a typical day look like for you?
Elanza: Oh my goodness, there’s no such thing. We make all these plans, but then a dog gets sick or a stray is found, and the whole day gets shifted. But we are very structured in terms of the dogs’ days, so they obviously always get their breakfast in the morning, and then it's training and enrichment. All the dogs do get taken out, whether it's down to the gardens or the enrichment garden, or there are play areas at the top for every single octagon. So, all these different things have to happen with the dogs. But the routine is excellent, because as you’ll hear, while there are 71 dogs here, you don’t hear a peep because the dogs are stimulated and getting what they need.
Outside of the dogs, there are lots of other jobs to fit in, like cleaning water bowls, poop patrol, keeping the grass watered, etc.
DQ: How many staff do you have here?
Elanza: 24, of which the majority are the caregiving staff. That's where we are heavy staff-wise, because that's where we need it. It's myself and our CEO who operate at the management level of the caregiving staff. We also have an animal care manager and a shelter manager who work hands-on with the dogs. Additionally, we've a fundraiser who works off-site. The rest of the people are those who devote their entire day to making the dogs live their best lives. They really are incredible.
GET IN TOUCH
Contact (office hours):
Elanza: 076 044 1979
Marna: 073 092 7800
Email
General: info@dogtownsa.org
Adoptions: adopt@dogtownsa.org
Volunteering: volunteer@dogtownsa.org
Website dogtownsa.org
DQ: How long does it take to train a caregiver?
Elanza: The caregivers go through quite a process. It takes at least six months, with numerous assessments. They also complete the IMDT diploma, for which we hold the license to operate in South Africa.
DQ: How does the adoption process work?
Elanza: So, we've got what we call a whole matchmaking system for our adoptions. You can't just walk
through and say, “Oh, I love the look of her, she reminds me of so and so - I'll take her”. Instead, we do a matchmaking quiz to understand the kind of dog someone is looking for, and then we match the dog to the family. There's a lot of conversation that happens in this stage, obviously in consultation with our caregivers and our behaviour team, because they know these dogs inside and out, but we make sure that the dogs and the families are well suited to each other.
DQ: Please tell us about your ‘afteradoption’ service?
Elanza: One of the things that makes us stand out is that we offer support to our families for their dog's lifetime. So, if a dog gets adopted, our behaviourist will accompany the dog and help settle him in at home; we ensure everything is good, and then we're off. If they contact us two days later and say there’s something a bit off or whatever the case may be, we'll go through and visit. There's no charge. We conduct a consultation and write a programme tailored to their specific needs, whether it's a behaviour programme, enrichment programme, or something else they require. Then, if something were
to happen four years down the line and they say, “Look, this dog's been perfect, but I've just got a cat,” off we go to assist again. We make a lifelong commitment to that dog to help them stay in their home.
DQ: In future issues, we’ll be delving more into the other initiatives you have, but can you give us a bit of an overview?
Elanza: Absolutely, we have so many initiatives running here. We have the Mutt and Bean Café, where people can come and sit in these octagons with our dogs while working, having coffee, or relaxing. They can also book and bring their own dogs, as it’s a safe space for dogs that find dog parks overwhelming.
We then have Central Bark, our puppy training school and our enrichment garden that can be booked out for people with their own dogs. We run courses, and all those who have adopted dogs from Dogtown get discounted rates. We have our online shop selling toys and merchandise, and we love it when people buy toys for our dogs from the store!
We conduct extensive educational work on social media to address stigma surrounding certain breeds. We also conduct outreach
programmes where we visit schools to teach children how to approach and handle dogs safely.
And we've got our sterilisation campaign as well, Spay it Forward, which we run nationally. We try to work with people who genuinely love their dogs, but they've either not had the education to sterilise or they don't have the funds, and then their dogs keep having puppies. This campaign is crucial for maintaining population control and supporting the shelters with their numbers.
DQ: How can people help?
Elanza: Donations are obviously very welcome. It’s tough out there for everyone right now, and we all know that if something needs to be cut somewhere, unfortunately, donations get cut first. Those people need to put food on the table, which we completely understand, so we’re always trying to come up with different ways to bring in funds, but anything people can do is hugely appreciated.
And then people supporting all our different initiatives, like the cafe, the online shop, the hikes, the dog school, and the IMDT courses, really help.
Sign up online to attend the IMDT Canine Body Language course at DogTown on the 28th of June. This is an entire day dedicated to understanding body language and understanding what your dog is trying to tell you, and what you are telling your dog with your own body language.
We also love volunteers, so if people have a few hours spare and are prepared to come and sit with the dogs or walk the dogs on our hikes, we’d love that!
And then just sharing the message that Dogtown dogs are VERY adoptable and encouraging people to come and meet them!
Xoloitzcuintle
(Mexican Hairless Dog)
AN ANCIENT AND ELEGANT BREED
Pronounced ‘show-low-eats-queentlee’—or affectionately called the ‘Xolo’—this ancient breed hails from Mexico and boasts a legacy stretching back over 3000 years. Revered by the Aztecs, Toltecs, and Maya, the Xoloitzcuintle was seen as a spiritual guide and guardian of the afterlife. Today, it is celebrated for its striking looks, intelligence, and deep devotion to its humans.
HISTORY
The Xoloitzcuintle is not just one of the world’s oldest dog breeds—it is a living link to Mesoamerican civilisation. Archaeological evidence indicates that Xolos have been present in Mexico for over 3000 years, making them a sacred and enduring part of the country’s cultural heritage.
The name Xoloitzcuintle comes from two Nahuatl words: Xolotl, the Aztec god of fire and lightning, and itzcuintli, meaning dog. According to legend, the god Xolotl created the Xoloitzcuintle from a sliver of the Bone of Life and gave the breed to humans to guard them and guide their souls through the underworld after death.
For the Aztecs, Maya, Toltecs, and other Indigenous peoples of ancient Mexico, the Xolo wasn’t just a pet—it was a spiritual being. Xolos were often buried alongside their owners to help guide them safely into the afterlife. In some traditions, they were believed to ward off evil spirits and illness.
Beyond their spiritual significance, Xolos served practical roles too. Their warm bodies were used as natural heating pads to relieve aches and pains, and their keen senses made them excellent watchdogs.
Despite their deep cultural roots, Xolos nearly disappeared after the Spanish conquest. European colonisers dismissed Indigenous beliefs, and the breed was no longer revered. For centuries, Xolos survived only in remote rural communities where they were quietly preserved by locals.
DID YOU KNOW?
Xolos are depicted in some of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo's paintings and Diego Rivera’s large murals, feature numerous Xolos.
It wasn’t until the 20th century that the breed began its formal comeback. In the 1950s, a team of Mexican dog enthusiasts, supported by the Mexican Kennel Club, sought out the few remaining pure Xolos and began an official breeding programme. Their efforts not only saved the breed from extinction but
also secured its recognition by the Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) and later the American Kennel Club (AKC).
Today, the Xoloitzcuintle is celebrated as Mexico’s national dog. It appears in art, folklore, and modern film and television.
APPEARANCE
BODY
Xolos have a lean, well-proportioned frame that combines strength with refinement. Their bodies are slightly longer than they are tall, with a level topline and a deep, roomy chest. The ribs are well-sprung, tapering into a defined tuck-up, giving the breed a fit, almost sculpted appearance.
Their long, slightly arched neck flows into muscular shoulders and strong, straight forelegs. The hindquarters are powerful, built for propulsion, with moderately angulated stifles and hocks that are well let down. Xolos move with a smooth, effortless stride that’s light but purposeful.
HEAD
The Xolo's head is a hallmark of the breed—clean, wedge-shaped, and expressive. The skull is broad and flat, tapering to a slightly defined stop. Their almond-shaped eyes, ranging in shades from dark brown to amber (depending on coat colour), give them an intelligent and soulful look.
Their ears are large, upright, and bat-like—always alert and mobile, adding to their expressive character. The muzzle is long and narrow, with tight-fitting lips and a black or selfcoloured nose.
SKIN AND COAT
The hairless variety is the most iconic, with smooth, tough, yet soft skin that often feels warm to the touch. Some individuals may have tufts of coarse hair on the forehead, tail tip, or toes—called the ‘crest, plume, and socks.’
Though they lack fur, their skin comes in an array of solid or dark colours including:
• Black
• Slate grey
• Bronze
• Dark brown
• Liver
• Occasionally, with small white markings
Hairless Xolos require sun protection and regular bathing to prevent clogged pores and irritation—but unlike coated breeds, they don’t attract fleas or shed hair.
The coated variety is less known but just as correct in the breed standard. These dogs have a short, flat coat that lies close to the body. Coated Xolos share all other breed traits, and their coat may be any solid colour found in the hairless variety.
DID YOU KNOW?
Xolos are often recommended for allergy sufferers thanks to their hairlessness and low dander levels – though no dog is completely hypoallergenic.
TAIL AND FEET
The tail is long, thin, and tapered— carried low and curved slightly when relaxed, or in a gentle arc when alert. Their feet are hare-shaped with wellarched toes and thick pads, making them nimble and sure-footed.
SIZE
Xolos come in three distinct sizes, making the breed accessible for many types of homes:
• Toy: 23–36cm and 2–7kg
• Miniature: 36–46cm and 7–14kg
• Standard: 46–60cm and 14–25kg
Each size maintains the same overall conformation, temperament, and elegance, but with a different physical presence.
EXERCISE NEEDS
TEMPERAMENT
Xolos are intelligent, calm, and highly affectionate with their families. They tend to form strong bonds with their people and are known to be excellent watchdogs – alert but not typically yappy. Early socialisation is essential, as they can be reserved with strangers.
Despite their calm indoor nature, Xolos benefit from regular exercise and mental stimulation. Daily walks and interactive play keep them content. They thrive in homes where they can be actively involved in family life, rather than being left alone for long stretches.
TRAINING
Highly trainable, they excel in obedience and even agility when given the opportunity.
FAST FACT
A Xolo named Dante starred in Disney-Pixar’s Coco, helping bring awareness of the breed to a global audience.
HEALTH AND CARE
Xolos are a generally healthy breed, but their lack of hair makes skincare essential. Hairless Xolos need protection from extreme sun and cold—think dog-friendly sunscreen and cosy sweaters. Dental hygiene is also important, as hairless varieties often have fewer teeth than coated ones.
IS THE XOLOITZCUINTLE RIGHT FOR YOU?
If you’re looking for a unique, intelligent, and devoted companion with ancient roots and minimal
shedding, the Xoloitzcuintle may be your perfect match. Their striking looks and soulful eyes are matched only by their loyal hearts.
THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO
DOG JACKETS
FUNCTION, FASHION, AND FIT
As the weather cools down across South Africa, we thought it was time to explore the world of dog jackets. It’s important to remember that dog jackets are more than just a fashion statement – they're a functional necessity for many breeds, especially in colder weather
conditions. Whether your dog is battling the cold, rain, or wind, a well-chosen jacket can make his outdoor experiences more comfortable and enjoyable. This article explores the importance of dog jackets, their different types, and how to choose the right one for your furry friend.
FAST FACT
Hairless dogs, including American Hairless Terriers, Xoloitzcuintlis and Chinese Cresteds, can all struggle to regulate their temperatures in cold weather. These hairless breeds need to wear a jacket when going outside in cold weather.
WHY DO DOGS NEED JACKETS?
Not all dogs are built for all weather conditions. While some breeds have thick, insulating fur that protects them against the cold, others, particularly those with short or thin coats, smaller breeds, older dogs, puppies, and dogs with health issues, may require extra protection from the cold or damp conditions. Here are the primary reasons dog jackets are needed:
• Warmth: Dogs with thin coats or low body fat, such as Greyhounds or Whippets, can benefit significantly from an extra layer of insulation against the cold. Similarly, old and young dogs, as well as those suffering from health conditions,
who may struggle to stay warm, can benefit from an extra layer. Small dogs also benefit from a jacket, as their surface area-to-body weight ratio means they struggle to maintain their body temperature in cold weather.
• Weather protection: For dogs that need to go out regardless of weather conditions, a jacket can protect against rain, snow, and wind.
• Safety: Many dog jackets have reflective features that enhance a dog's visibility during early morning or late evening walks.
• Comfort: A jacket can make the experience of going outside more pleasant for a dog, encouraging them to exercise even when the weather isn't ideal.
TYPES OF DOG JACKETS
Dog jackets come in various styles and materials, each suited to different needs and environments:
• Lightweight jackets: For dogs who get cold easily, a lightweight jacket can be helpful when the weather starts to cool. These light jackets can help keep dogs comfortable and allow them to enjoy being outside in chilly weather without overheating.
• Insulated jackets: These are designed to keep dogs warm in cold weather. They often have a filling similar to human winter jackets and are ideal for snowy and icy conditions.
• Rain jackets: Even dogs who don’t get cold easily can benefit from wearing rain jackets in wet weather. Made from waterproof or waterresistant materials, rain jackets help
keep your dog dry during rainy walks.
• Snowsuits and bodysuits: Dogs can get the most overall protection from cold weather in a snowsuit or bodysuit. These jackets cover your dog’s entire body, including the legs. These suits are especially useful for lean-bodied or hairless dogs with longer legs, who are susceptible to cold weather.
• Cooling jackets: In hot weather, cooling jackets can help keep dogs comfortable. These are typically made from special fabrics that require soaking in water before use. As the water evaporates, it provides a cooling effect.
• Reflective or safety jackets: These jackets are made with reflective material that shines brightly under lights, making them ideal for nighttime safety.
FAST FACT
Osteoarthritis symptoms tend to worsen in cold weather, so dogs suffering from osteoarthritis often benefit from wearing a jacket, as it reduces the impact of the cold on their joints.
DID YOU KNOW?
Some jackets come with a built-in hole for the lead attachment to pass through on the back. This feature makes it easy to put your dog’s jacket on over the harness if they wear a back-clip harness for walks.
comfort, ease of movement, and the correct level of protection:
• Size and fit: Measure your dog's length, neck, and chest circumference to ensure a proper fit. A well-fitting jacket should be snug but not tight, allowing a full range of motion. Many manufacturers provide sizing charts.
• Material: Choose a material suited to your dog’s needs— insulated materials for cold weather, breathable fabrics for mild weather, and waterproof materials for rain.
especially if your dog is not used to wearing ‘clothes’.
• Sanitary: Look for jackets with sanitary cut-outs that reduce mess and allow your dog to relieve themselves comfortably while wearing the jacket.
• Durability: Opt for jackets that are well-made and durable, especially if your dog is active and spends a lot of time outdoors.
• Washability: Since dog jackets are likely to get dirty, choosing one that is machine washable is a practical option.
NOTE
Dogs with clipped coats, such as Poodles, lack the natural insulation that a full coat provides. These dogs can quickly become cold in lower temperatures, so they are likely to need coats.
INTRODUCING YOUR DOG TO THE JACKET
Before expecting your dog to be comfortable going outside and playing in a jacket, it’s essential to properly introduce the jacket to your
dog, rather than simply putting it on and expecting them to accept it. By introducing the jacket in advance and making it a positive experience for your dog, you’ll ensure that your dog is comfortable wearing their coat.
DID YOU KNOW?
Loose jackets can pose a potential hazard for dogs, as they may get caught, leading to accidents.
WHEN NOT TO OPT FOR A JACKET
While dog jackets can be beneficial for keeping your furry friend warm and protected in cold or wet weather, there are certain situations when dogs should not wear jackets. Here’s when it’s advisable to skip the jacket:
1. Overheating risk: If the weather is mild or warm, wearing a jacket can cause a dog to overheat, especially for breeds with thick coats that are designed to insulate them naturally. It's essential to assess the temperature and your dog's temperature and comfort level, rather than dressing them based on human perceptions of cold.
2. Indoors: When inside a heated environment, dogs typically do not need extra layers. Wearing a jacket indoors can lead to overheating and discomfort.
3. During high activity: If your dog is engaged in vigorous exercise or play, especially in moderate to warm weather, wearing a jacket may cause them to overheat. Active dogs generate a significant amount of body heat, and a jacket can prevent this heat from dissipating efficiently.
4. If the jacket is wet: If a dog’s jacket gets wet from rain and isn't dried properly before the next use, it can make the dog cold rather than keeping them warm, potentially leading to hypothermia in very cold weather.
5. If the dog is uncomfortable: Some dogs simply do not like wearing clothing. If a jacket seems to cause distress, restrict movement, or lead to behaviours like chewing at the jacket or seeming generally anxious, it's best to reconsider its use. Comfort should always be a priority.
6. Poor fit: A jacket that does not fit correctly can chafe, restrict a dog’s movement, or even pose a safety hazard if it’s too loose. Ensure that any jacket fits properly before using it regularly.
7. Allergic reactions: Some materials can irritate a dog’s skin. If you notice any signs of irritation,
discomfort, or allergies, such as scratching, redness, or hair loss under the jacket, discontinue its use.
8. Unattended dogs: If your dog is unsupervised, avoid leaving him in a jacket. Jackets can get caught on objects and result in accidents, so dogs wearing clothing require supervision.
Choosing whether or not to put a jacket on your dog involves considering the specific needs of your dog, the weather conditions, and how your dog reacts to wearing clothing. Always monitor your dog’s behaviour while wearing a jacket and adjust your approach based on their needs and comfort.
CONCLUSION
Dog jackets are a practical addition to your pet's wardrobe, providing protection, comfort, and safety in various weather conditions. By considering your dog's specific needs and ensuring a proper fit, you can make outdoor adventures more enjoyable and comfortable for your pet.
Osteoarthritis
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Osteoarthritis (OA) is a complex, multifactorial condition involving inflammation and degeneration of one or more of your dog’s joints. Dogs with OA experience pain and inflammation in various joints, which interfere with their daily life and activities.
DIAGNOSIS
OA is diagnosed by your vet through a thorough physical examination, palpation (feeling with the fingers to localise pain and determine its intensity), and additional diagnostics, including radiographs (X-rays) or other imaging technologies.
CAUSES
There is no single cause of OA. There are many factors involved, including:
• Body conformation (how a dog is built)
• Body condition/weight (being overweight or obese is highly correlated with OA)
• Abnormal joint development (such as in the case of hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, luxating patellas, etc.)
• Activity history (very active or very inactive dogs are more prone to OA)
• Injury history (e.g., past fracture, ligament damage, muscle injury, joint infection)
• Orthopaedic surgery
• Nutritional history
DID YOU KNOW?
While any dog can develop osteoarthritis, certain breeds are more at risk due to genetics or conformation:
• L abrador Retrievers
• Golden Retrievers
• German Shepherds
• Rottweilers
• Bulldogs
• Dachshunds (due to spinal issues)
If your dog belongs to one of these breeds, early joint care and regular monitoring are especially important.
Most dogs with OA have more than one of these contributing factors but we do now know that just ‘getting old’ is NOT a cause of OA.
SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS
Dogs can exhibit various signs when they have OA, and they do not necessarily display all the same signs at all times. This means that OA often goes unnoticed for some time before a diagnosis is made. Here’s a list of some of the symptoms that might suggest your dog is suffering from OA:
Mobility and movement changes:
• Stiffness, especially after rest or in cold weather
• Limping or lameness (may be intermittent at first)
• Slower walking pace or reduced stamina on walks
• Reluctance or difficulty getting up from lying down
• Difficulty jumping into cars, onto
furniture, or climbing stairs
• Awkward or altered gait (e.g., bunny-hopping or dragging limbs)
• Decreased range of motion in joints
• Hesitation during activities they previously enjoyed
Signs of pain:
• F linching or reacting when certain joints are touched
• Whining, whimpering, or yelping during movement
• Muscle atrophy (especially around the hips or shoulders)
• Licking, chewing, or biting at joints or limbs
• Restlessness or difficulty settling down, especially at night
• Avoiding certain positions or lying on one side only
Behavioural signs:
• Irritability or aggression when handled
• Withdrawn or less interactive with people and other pets
• Decreased enthusiasm for walks, play, or toys
• Increased time spent sleeping or lying down
• General signs of depression or anxiety
Physical signs:
• Arched back or abnormal posture
• Noticeable joint swelling or thickening
• Audible joint clicking or popping when moving
• Weight shifting to avoid using a painful leg (e.g., holding up a paw)
Indirect/secondary signs:
• Loss of appetite (due to pain or stress)
• Weight gain (from reduced activity)
• Overgrown nails (due to inactivity)
• Changes in toilet habits (difficulty squatting or posture changes)
IMPORTANT
Never use your own medication for your dog when he limps or has been diagnosed with OA.
TREATMENT
Unfortunately, there is no ‘magic bullet’ for treating OA. Once OA is established, it is less a case of treating the disease than managing it because OA is not a disease that can be cured. OA is a complex disease process, so managing it is complex because we achieve the best results by combining multiple modalities. Typical multimodal management of arthritis generally includes the following:
• Nutrition
• Normalising body condition is critical, so your vet may prescribe a specific diet to accomplish
this goal. There is now a nutrient profile that can support the joints while helping to normalise body weight and condition. It is important to stick strictly to the prescribed nutritional programme.
• Pain medications
• Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are generally used as the first line of defence against the pain of OA. Common drugs in this category are meloxicam, carprofen, deracoxib, grapiprant, robenacoxib and firocoxib. Your vet will decide if your dog is a suitable candidate for this class of medication.
• Rarely, a corticosteroid antiinflammatory drug will be prescribed instead of an NSAID. The two classes of medication cannot be used together.
• Gabapentin is a pain medication that addresses chronic pain differently from NSAIDs or corticosteroids and complements
those medications. It provides a way to address the chronic nature of OA pain and is especially helpful when the patient is older and unable to take an NSAID.
• O ther less commonly used drugs include tramadol, amantadine, and acetaminophen, but they are less effective unless paired with other drugs mentioned above.
NUTRACEUTICALS
A nutritional supplement with medicinal effects is called a ‘nutraceutical’. There are numerous products on the market, many of which are labelled for use with joint disease. Some commonly used products include glucosamine, chondroitin, omega-3 fatty acids, and polysulfated glycosaminoglycans. Consult your vet about the scientific evidence supporting the prescribed nutraceuticals before investing in supplements that have not been proven to be effective.
Here’s a breakdown of evidencebased nutraceuticals that have
shown clinical benefit in managing canine OA:
Glucosamine and Chondroitin Sulphate:
• What they do: Support cartilage repair and inhibit enzymes that break down cartilage.
• Evidence: Mixed but generally positive, especially when used long-term. Some studies show reduced pain and improved mobility.
• Best used: In early stages of OA and as part of a multi-modal approach.
• Form: Often combined in joint supplements.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids (EPA and DHA from Fish Oil):
• What they do: Potent antiinflammatories that reduce joint inflammation and pain.
• Evidence: Strong. Multiple studies have demonstrated improvements in weight-bearing and reduced NSAID use in dogs with OA.
• Best used: For long-term management of moderate to severe OA.
• Form: Fish oil capsules or veterinary therapeutic diets enriched with omega-3s.
Green-Lipped Mussel (GLM):
• What it does: Provides omega3s, glycosaminoglycans, and antioxidants.
• Evidence: Several studies have shown improvement in joint pain and function in dogs with OA.
• Best used: As a natural antiinflammatory alongside other treatments.
• Form: Powder or capsules.
TIPS ON NUTRACEUTICAL USE FOR DOG OWNERS
• Consistency is key: These supplements work best when given daily over several weeks or months.
• Choose products with research or veterinary backing. Look for:
• Clinical studies supporting efficacy
• Veterinary-formulated brands
• AND discuss the options with your vet
• Don’t DIY dose: Always ask your vet for the correct dosage and safe combinations.
Undenatured Type II Collagen (UCII):
• What it does: Helps regulate the immune response to joint cartilage, potentially reducing inflammation and pain.
• Evidence: Promising. Some studies have shown UC-II to be as effective, or even more effective, than glucosamine/chondroitin in improving mobility.
• Best used: For long-term, consistent use in dogs with chronic OA.
Avocado/Soybean Unsaponifiables (ASUs):
• What they do: Inhibit cartilage breakdown and promote repair.
• Evidence: Studies suggest ASUs can reduce cartilage degradation and inflammation when used with glucosamine and chondroitin.
• Form: Often included in highquality joint supplements.
CBD Oil (Cannabidiol):
• What it does: May reduce pain and inflammation.
• Evidence: Still emerging, but early research is encouraging. A 2018 Cornell study demonstrated improved comfort and mobility in dogs with OA.
• Important note: Use only veterinary-formulated CBD with known concentrations and no THC.
emerging evidence:
• MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane): Anti-inflammatory; often included in joint formulas.
• Hyaluronic Acid: Aids joint lubrication, more commonly used in injectable form.
• Turmeric (Curcumin): Natural antiinflammatory, but bioavailability is a concern unless well-formulated.
PHYSICAL REHABILITATION
Physical rehabilitation is a discipline that translates physical therapy techniques from human medicine for application in animal patients. These techniques include (but are not limited to) therapeutic laser, therapeutic exercise, joint mobilisation, and hydrotherapy using an underwater treadmill. Your vet can refer you to a rehabilitation specialist. There are lots available in South Africa.
OTHER MODALITIES
Medical acupuncture can provide excellent pain relief for many dogs with OA. Likewise, other physical medicine disciplines, such as chiropractic and medical massage, may also be helpful.
SURGERY
For the most extreme of cases, some surgical procedures can alleviate the pain associated with OA. Total hip replacements and femoral head/neck ostectomy (FHO) can be done with good results, as well as some joint arthrodesis (fusion) procedures. In a minimal number of select patients, elbow or knee replacements may be considered.
There are simple things that any dog owner can provide to a dog with OA that can help with comfort and mobility. These include:
• Soft, padded bedding
• Raised food and water dishes (elbow height)
• Non-slip floor surfaces (put down rugs)
• A ramp/step for entering and exiting a vehicle or getting on and off furniture
• Adhering to prescribed feeding and medication recommendations
PROGNOSIS
With proper management, dogs with OA can live a normal life expectancy. It is important to remember that their activity and play may have to be adjusted to accommodate their changing bodies. Your vet can provide specific guidance tailored to your dog.
CAN CANINE OA BE PREVENTED?
Allowing a dog to grow slowly as a puppy and maintaining a lean body
condition throughout growth into adulthood is the most effective way to prevent OA, and delaying spay and neuter procedures until dogs have reached full maturity (dependent on the breed) can help reduce the development of bone abnormalities.
However, it is essential to recognise that growth abnormalities and, of course, injuries cannot always be predicted, so even our best efforts may not be sufficient to prevent OA in a dog.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Ultimately, though, with slow growth, good nutrition, optimal body condition, and regular exercise, the odds of preventing or at least delaying OA are excellent. Your vet will work closely with you to develop the best plan for your dog.
Our dogs are our best friends, and the thought of them suffering in pain is distressing. Many dogs show only subtle signs and symptoms, especially in the early stages of OA, so if you suspect your dog may be experiencing pain secondary to OA, contact your vet as a priority.
PENTOSAN
MODIFYING THE DISEASE PROCESS OF OSTEOARTHRITIS
Pentosan polysulfate is becoming an increasingly popular treatment for arthritis in dogs. But what is it, how does it work, and is it right for your pet?
Osteoarthritis is one of the most common causes of pain and stiffness
in dogs, especially large breeds and active pets. While traditional treatments like anti-inflammatories and joint supplements still play a key role in arthritis management, Pentosan polysulfate is offering a new layer of support that modifies the disease process in osteoarthritis.
WHAT IS PENTOSAN?
Pentosan polysulfate sodium (PPS) is a semi-synthetic drug derived from beechwood hemicellulose. Originally developed for use in horses with osteoarthritis, it’s now widely used in dogs to manage joint disease – often with excellent results.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Pentosan is not just a painkiller –it’s considered a disease-modifying osteoarthritis drug (DMOAD), meaning it works to improve joint health at a deeper level over time. It is also given systemically so works on all joints throughout the body.
Its benefits include:
• Stimulating cartilage repair and preventing further cartilage breakdown
• Improving joint lubrication by stimulating the production of joint fluid
• Increasing blood flow to the associated tissues
• Reducing inflammation
This makes it different from NSAIDs (like Rimadyl or Previcox), which mainly block pain and inflammation but don’t slow joint degeneration.
WHAT CONDITIONS CAN PENTOSAN HELP WITH?
Pentosan is commonly used for:
• Osteoarthritis (age-related or posttraumatic)
• Hip and elbow dysplasia
• Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD)
• Post-operative joint recovery
• Preventive care in working or athletic dogs
Vets may recommend it alone or in combination with other treatments such as NSAIDs, omega-3s, or physiotherapy.
HOW IS PENTOSAN GIVEN?
Pentosan is administered by subcutaneous injection (under the skin), typically at your vet’s office. The standard protocol is:
• One injection per week for four weeks
• Then, booster injections every three months, but frequency will depend on your dog’s response and needs
Some vets teach pet owners how to give follow-up injections at home, especially for long-term management.
WHAT RESULTS CAN YOU EXPECT?
Improvements can be gradual or dramatic, depending on the severity of the condition, but many owners report that their dog is more mobile, playful, and comfortable after just a few weeks.
While not every dog responds equally, Pentosan is often a gamechanger in cases where other treatments haven't done enough.
IS PENTOSAN SAFE?
Pentosan has a high safety profile when used correctly for osteoarthritis and related musculoskeletal disorders in dogs. It has been used for over 20 years in veterinary medicine. However, because it can mildly affect blood clotting, it’s used with caution in dogs with:
• Active bleeding disorders
• Recent surgery or trauma
• Liver dysfunction
Side effects are rare but may include temporary soreness at the injection site, vomiting, or lethargy. Always follow your vet’s advice and report any unusual symptoms.
Pentosan
Cartilage protection, antiinflammatory
NSAIDs Pain and inflammation relief
Joint supplements (e.g. glucosamine) Nutritional support
Omega-3 fatty acids Anti-inflammatory
FINAL THOUGHTS
Pentosan offers hope to dogs suffering from joint pain by not only easing their discomfort but also helping preserve their joint function.
Disease-modifying; improves joint health
Fast-acting; oral tablets
Easy to give; widely available
Natural; benefits skin and heart too
Requires injections; ongoing cost
Long-term use can affect kidneys/liver
May take weeks to show effect
Mild effect on joint structure
Whether your dog is a senior struggling to get up in the morning or a young athlete with early signs of arthritis, it might be worth asking your vet if Pentosan could help.
SKIN LESIONS IN DOGS
Skin problems are among the most common reasons for a trip to the vet. Dogs can’t tell us when they’re itchy, sore or in pain—at least not with words. But their skin often does the talking. From scabs and rashes to bumps and bald
WHAT THEY MEAN AND WHEN TO WORRY
patches, skin lesions can be a sign of anything from mild allergies to serious underlying health issues.
Here’s what we, as dog parents, need to know about the different types of skin lesions in dogs, what causes them, and how to manage them.
WHAT IS A SKIN LESION?
A skin lesion is any abnormal change to the surface of your dog’s skin.
Lesions can look like:
• Red patches or rashes
• Bumps or lumps
• Scabs or sores
• Blisters or pustules
• Ulcers or open wounds
• Crusty, flaky or scaling areas
• Bald spots or thinning hair
• Thickened or discoloured skin
Some lesions are dry and itchy. Others may ooze, bleed or be painful to the touch. Regardless of how small or large they are, it’s essential to identify the cause early and institute the necessary treatment, if any.
COMMON CAUSES OF SKIN LESIONS IN DOGS
Here are some of the most frequent reasons dogs develop skin lesions:
Parasites
Fleas, ticks, lice and mites can irritate the skin, causing your dog to scratch, lick or bite. This leads
to hair loss, scabs, and inflamed skin. Mange mites (e.g., Demodex or Sarcoptes) can cause especially severe lesions.
Effect of scabies mites
Allergies can become severe, affecting a dog’s quality of life.
TWO THREE
Allergies
Dogs can be allergic to food ingredients, pollen, grasses, dust mites or even flea saliva. Allergies often present as itchy, red skin, usually around the face, belly, ears or paws. Chronic scratching can lead to secondary infections and sores.
Bacterial or fungal infections
Bacterial infections, such as pyoderma, and fungal infections, like ringworm or yeast, can cause crusty or weepy lesions. These are often smelly and may require both topical and oral medication.
Hot spots
Hot spots (also known as acute moist dermatitis) are red, raw, and often weeping areas that appear suddenly, usually after the dog has licked or chewed at an itchy area. They spread fast and need prompt treatment.
FIVE
Blocked hair follicles or glands
Blocked hair follicles or glands can cause sebaceous cysts to form, which typically appear as nodules filled with clear or bluish fluid.
SIX
Trauma or burns
Scrapes, cuts, insect bites or chemical burns can damage the skin. Dogs with thin coats or sensitive skin are more prone to sunburn or contact irritation.
SEVEN
Hormonal imbalances
Conditions like hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease can lead to skin thinning, poor coat condition, and recurring infections or sores.
EIGHT
8. Autoimmune or immune-mediated conditions
Rare, but serious conditions like pemphigus or lupus can cause severe ulcerative lesions, particularly around the face, nose, and paws.
DID YOU KNOW?
Dogs with wrinkles, such as Bulldogs or Shar-Peis, are more prone to skin fold infections.
NINE
9. Age-related skin changes
Many older dogs develop skin tags, warts, sebaceous cysts, sores, and lipomas due to a variety of factors involved in the ageing process, such as lower mobility, a less active immune system, and poorer dietary absorption.
TEN
10. Cancer
Skin tumours or growths can sometimes look like benign bumps at first. Any lesion that changes in size, colour, or shape – or bleeds – should be checked.
Papules and pustules on the belly of a dog.
APPEARANCE OF SKIN LESIONS
1. Papules
• Description: Small, red, raised bumps (less than 1cm).
• Description: Flat, discoloured areas—macules are small; patches are larger.
• Common causes:
• Allergies
• Bruising or trauma
• Immune-mediated diseases
DID YOU KNOW?
The skin is the largest organ in your dog’s body.
4. Nodules
• Description: Larger, firm lumps in the skin or under the surface.
• Common causes:
• Abscesses
• Tumours (benign or malignant)
• Deep fungal infections
5. Vesicles and bullae
• Description: Fluid-filled blisters (vesicles are small, bullae are large).
• Common causes:
• Rare immune-mediated diseases
• Thermal or chemical burns
• Severe allergic reactions
6. Ulcers
• Description: Open sores where the skin surface is broken.
• Common causes:
• Self-trauma from scratching or licking
• Pressure sores in immobile dogs
• Autoimmune disease or cancer
7. Crusts
• Description: Dried serum, blood or pus forming a scab.
• Common causes:
• Secondary to pustules or ulcers
• Mange or bacterial skin infections
• Ringworm
8. Scales
• Description: Flaky, dry skin (dandruff-like).
• Common causes:
• Seborrhoea
• Endocrine disorders (e.g., hypothyroidism)
• Poor nutrition or parasitic infestations
9. Alopecia (hair loss)
• Description: Localised or generalised bald patches.
• Common causes:
• Mange, fleas, or ringworm
• Allergies
• Hormonal imbalances or stress
Alopecia on the face of a German Shepherd
A lipoma in a Labrador
10. Lichenification
• Description: Thickened, leathery, darkened skin from chronic inflammation.
• Common causes:
• Chronic scratching or licking
• Long-standing allergies
• Yeast infections
A warty-looking lesion in an older dog. A biopsy may still be required to confirm that this is indeed a wart, rather than something more serious.
11. Tumours or masses
• Description: Solid lumps can be benign or malignant.
• Common causes:
• Lipomas (fatty tumours)
• Mast cell tumours
• Skin cysts or warts
WHEN TO SEE THE VET
Any skin lesion should be evaluated by your vet, especially if:
• It’s growing or spreading
• It changes in colour
• It bleeds or becomes ulcerated
• It smells bad or oozes
• Your dog is scratching constantly
• There is pain, heat or swelling in the area
• There’s hair loss around the lesion
• Your dog seems tired, in pain, or has a fever
• The lesions do not heal or keep reoccurring
Prompt diagnosis can prevent further complications and relieve your dog’s discomfort.
Many lumps will need to be biopsied or excised and sent for biopsy to identify the cause.
DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT
Your vet may do the following to determine the cause:
• Skin scrapings to check for mites
• Fungal and bacterial cultures
• C ytology (looking at cells under a microscope)
• Blood tests for allergies or systemic disease
• Biopsies or excision biopsies (removing the lesion) for suspicious growths
Treatment depends on the cause. It may include:
• Topical ointments or medicated shampoos
• Antibiotics or antifungals
• F lea and parasite control
• Dietary changes or allergy testing
• Anti-inflammatory or immunosuppressive medications
• Surgical procedures to remove cancerous or troublesome growths
PREVENTING SKIN LESIONS
It is impossible to truly prevent skin lesions, but here are a few things you can try:
• Keep your dog on year-round flea and tick prevention.
• Bathe your dog with gentle, dogspecific shampoos.
• Feed a balanced diet with essential fatty acids.
• Groom regularly to check for lumps, rashes or wounds.
• Address any scratching or licking issues early to prevent them from worsening.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Skin lesions in dogs are more than just a cosmetic issue—they can be uncomfortable or even a sign of serious illness. If you notice anything
unusual on your dog’s skin, don’t wait it out. A quick vet visit could make all the difference in keeping your dog happy, healthy, and itchfree.
YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED
How should I keep my dogs warm this winter?
Just like us, dogs feel the chill in winter – and some more than others. Puppies, senior dogs, small breeds, and short-haired dogs often need extra help staying warm during the colder months.
Here are some practical ways to keep your dogs cosy this winter:
1. Provide a warm, dry sleeping area Make sure your dogs’ beds are raised off cold floors and placed away from drafts. Add extra blankets or use a well-insulated, orthopaedic bed to retain heat.
2. Consider a dog jacket or sweater
Not all dogs need clothing, but if your dogs have a thin coat, low body fat, or are shivering, a winter jacket or fleece can make a big difference, especially on walks.
3. Adjust their diet and exercise
Some dogs burn more energy in winter, keeping warm. Speak to your vet about whether your dogs might need a slight increase in food. Keep up regular walks, but shorten them during icy weather and avoid very early or late outings.
4. Check for damp coats and paws
Wet fur draws heat away from the body. Dry your dogs thoroughly after
walks or rain, and regularly check paws for cracks, ice, or irritation from cold surfaces.
5. Know the signs of cold stress
If your dogs are shivering, curling up tightly, reluctant to move, or seeking warm spots constantly, they may be too cold. Make sure the above steps are addressed, and let them snuggle with you near a heater if necessary.
With a little preparation, your dogs can stay snug, safe, and happy throughout the winter season. As always, if you’re unsure about your dogs’ needs, your vet can offer advice tailored to their age, breed, and health.
How do I know if a skin lesion is serious or just a minor issue?
It’s not always easy to tell, which is why we advise dog owners to watch for certain red flags. If the lesion is painful, growing, bleeding, or
not healing within a few days, or if your dog is obsessively licking or scratching the area, it needs to be seen. Also, if your dog has more than one lesion or shows other signs like lethargy or fever, don’t delay the visit to your vet.
My dog keeps getting hotspots. How can I stop them from coming back?
Recurrent hotspots are often a symptom of something deeper – like allergies, fleas, or anxiety. Treatment
must go beyond just managing the sore itself. Your vet might recommend allergy testing, parasite control, or even behaviour support. Keeping your dog clean and dry, especially after swimming or bathing, also helps prevent hotspots.
Can I use human creams like Savlon or cortisone ointment on my dog’s skin?
No, not unless your vet has specifically advised it. Some human products are toxic to dogs, especially if licked. Even something as common as cortisone cream can be dangerous if used inappropriately. Always use treatments prescribed or recommended by a vet.
Products we love
Shopping fun
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