NEW TATULA 150 & 200
Strong and smooth lasting rotation is the function required for a top class overhead reel. A powerful unit that continuously sends energy from the drive gear to the pinion gear. A robust body that suppresses force to the internals from the outside and realises a stable and quiet driving force. Each functional mechanism needs to work under any condition. The HYPERDRIVE DESIGN concept realizes efficiency under load that goes far beyond the conventional framework. DAIWA, which uses experience as a weapon, sets the next standard for the future.
ON THE COVER: Colby Lesko with a Murray cod taken from its namesake river. Caught on a wakebiat using the Samaki Zing Xtreme and Samaki Zing baitcaster.
Harden Up
Winter’s here. The mornings are frosty, the wind bites, and your mates are starting to make excuses. “Too cold.” “Too dark.” “Packed the boat away for the season.” Soft.
If you’re one of those anglers who parks the boat and hibernates until spring, you’re missing out – big time. In the south, the real action is just kicking off. Barrel tuna are doing their thing offshore and the swordfish are lighting up for those willing to go deep. Inshore, there’s still plenty to keep rods bent: pinkie snapper on plastics, snapper offshore and in the bays, squid over the weed beds, and fat winter whiting that eat better than they fight.
Flick inland and the cod are loving the cold snaps. Frost on the grass usually means a fish or two on the cast. And for those who prefer their water glassy and still, we’ve got you covered with a deep dive into targeting lake trout this winter – an often overlooked but rewarding winter fishery.
Further north, Sydney anglers are just getting into snapper, which we cover in this issue, and the run of pelagics doesn’t just stop because the calendar flipped to June. Queenslanders and Territorians hardly notice the change in season, and the fishing stays solid all year. Think barra, jacks, threadfin, mackerel, longtail tuna… it’s all happening if you’re keen enough to go find it.
Bottom line? Don’t let the winter blues get you down. You’re always happier with a rod in hand, wind in your face, and something on the end of the line. Rug up, get out there, and fish harder than the weather.
Kosta Linardos.
Editor-in-Chief
Sam Gilchrist, Colby Lesko, Jonah Yick, Dean Norbiato, Adam Hewson
TECKEL DUCKROAKER
POPPER FROG
SHIMANO CALCUTTA CONQUEST 100 & 200 HG
Shimano continues to push the boundaries of performance with the introduction of the Calcutta Conquest 100 & 200 HG. The metal body provides a rigid and comfortable feel under load and provides exceptional durability. The Calcutta Conquest 100 & 200HG is the first bass reel equipped with Infinity Drive, which is highly regarded in Shimano’s saltwater fishing reels. Rotational resistance has been greatly reduced, and the sensitivity, power, and feel of the reel have been greatly improved. A low-profile body improves the palming performance. The new low-inertia MGL Spool III enables the angler to send lures deep into structure with a low trajectory. A HG gear ratio of 7.5 and a maximum reeling length of 89cm enables powerful and high-speed retrives perfect for glidebaits, jerkbaits and topwater presentations. The Shimano Calcutta Conquest 100 & 200HG is available in store now.
shimanofish.com.au
Built by legendary lure designer Hideki Maeda, the Teckel Duckroaker Popper Frog is the sixth hollow-body frog in the Teckel lineup—and easily the most unique. Designed with serious predators in mind, it sports a long body and cupped mouth that delivers a smooth walk-thedog action with a loud splash that’s bound to stir up interest. Instead of relying on internal BBs, the Duckroaker features a chunky external rattle chamber tucked under the skirt, adding a rowdy sound that’s impossible for Murray cod, barra or big bass to ignore. Paired with ultra-detailed finishes and the proven collapsible body and double hook system, this is a topwater frog that’s built to draw aggressive strikes and deliver solid hook-ups.
Total Length: 160mm | Body Length: 75mm | Weight: 21g gladiatortackle.com.au
FLAMBEAU TACKLE TRAYS NOW MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For the first time, Flambeau’s renowned tackle trays are being made in Australia from the American moulds. Available in two models, the 4000 and 5000, these trays feature an easy single-hand latch for quick, hasslefree access. Made using high-quality polypropylene, the American mould is now crafted right here for local anglers making them highly durable and suited to Australian conditions. Both models include multiple dividers so you can customise your tray to suit your gear—over 15 compartments in the 4000 and more than 20 in the larger 5000. Stay organised and ready for any fishing adventure.
jmgillies.com.au
DAIWA INFEET METAL VIBE
The Infeet Metal Vibe has been developed by the Daiwa Australia team and features several unique designs that make it standout in the metal vibe lure category. Featuring a unique triple option triangle tow-point configuration, the Infeet Metal Vibe allows ultimate flexibility. The central tow point delivers an incredibly tight vibration, while the other two more traditional top positioned towpoints provide a more thumping action. The other unique design is the fact the metal frame extends forward of the moulded lead, improving bottom contact sensitivity and eliminating premature wear of the face of the lure. The Infeet Metal Vibe is available in 3.5, 5 and 7g weights to perfectly cater to a wide array of fisheries and
DAIWA 25 TATULA TW 150 AND 200
Daiwa expands its Tatula lineup for 2025 with the release of the new TW 150 and TW 200 models. Now featuring Daiwa’s Hyperdrive Design, both reels offer a serious boost in strength, smoothness, and durability. The TW 150 is a refined mid-size workhorse packed with tech like Hyperdrive Digigear, Magforce Z, UTD Drag, and a rocksolid aluminium body. The TW 200 steps things up for bigger jobs, boasting a deep 38mm spool, large swept handle, and the power to chase barra, Murray cod or troll for tropical beasts. Both models feature Infinite Anti-Reverse, corrosion-resistant CRBBs, and Zero Adjuster for dialled-in performance straight out of the box. Built tough for Aussie conditions, these Tatulas are ready to go to work. daiwafishing.com.au
MOLIX GLIDE BAIT 130 DYING
The Molix Glide Bait 130 Dying is built to replicate the erratic, vulnerable movement of a struggling baitfish. With a three-piece body and a slow, unpredictable swim, this lure excels when paused or twitched—sitting horizontally like a dying fish. That natural look is deadly on predators that key in on the weakest in the school. You can work it with jerks and pauses or just let it hang—it looks ready to eat even when it’s barely moving. The side-mounted treble hook boosts your hook-up rate, especially on side-on hits, and the lifelike fins and 3D eyes add another layer of realism. Fitted with quality hardware and designed for Australian natives like cod, barra and XL flathead, this one’s a musthave for serious lure anglers. Floating. Weight: 25g. Length: 130mm. ejtodd.com.au
MCLURES MOGUL 9”
The Mogul 9” from McLures is a heavy cup-faced lure designed to run deep and deliver maximum bubble trail, thanks to its four jet holes. At 11.5” overall with a 9” skirt and 165g weight, it’s ideal for targeting marlin, yellowfin and barrel southern bluefin. Built tough with near-indestructible resin heads, Red Crystal 3D Eyes and McLures’ exclusive Luminite underskirts that glow in the dark, these lures excel in all sea conditions and any trolling position. Most feature a UV over-skirt, with head options including glow, tinted and Kauri Shell finishes. Designed in Australia for serious bluewater action, the Mogul is available in 12 proven colour combinations.
jurofishing.com
TECKEL HONKER FROG
From the weedy banks of the Murray to the barra-filled billabongs of the Top End, the Teckel Honker Frog brings classic topwater action that’s been fooling big fish for years. Designed by Japanese lure maker and tournament angler Hideki Maeda, the Honker Frog features a proven amphibian profile that delivers explosive strikes. Fitted with metal feet on ball bearings at the rear, this frog creates a unique wake that bass and barra find hard to ignore. It also casts like a bullet thanks to a built-in weight and always lands the right way up. Finished with a razor-sharp Gamakatsu double frog hook and an ultra-soft body for solid hook-ups, the Honker Frog is a serious contender for any topwater session. Length: 70mm |
SALTY CREW MARINER LITE UV HOOD
The Mariner Lite UV Hood in Sand Camo is designed for performance and all-day comfort on the water. Made from a lightweight, 4-way stretch blend of recycled polyester, viscose and elastane, it offers UPF 50+ sun protection, moisture-wicking capability and anti-microbial properties to keep you cool and dry. The three-piece hood features a plastic snap closure for extra sun coverage, while raglan sleeves allow for unrestricted movement when casting or working the deck. Finished with a clean chest print, it’s an ideal choice for serious fishos chasing both comfort and protection in harsh conditions. Available in sizes S through XXL salty-crew.com.au
SHIMANO CURADO BFS
The new Shimano Curado BFS expands the Curado low-profile range and redefines finesse baitcasting for Aussie anglers. Inspired by Japan’s Domestic Market, the BFS model features a super lightweight shallow spool suited to thinner lines, making it ideal for casting small lures with ease. The reel incorporates Shimano’s Finesse Tune Brake (FTB) system, which shifts the braking unit off the spool to reduce weight and increase casting performance. Unlike fixed magnetic brakes, FTB uses centrifugal force to apply braking only when needed, and it’s fully adjustable via an external dial or removable magnets. Perfect for chasing bass, bream or trout with downsized lures, the Curado BFS is the finesse baitcaster you’ve been waiting for.
shimanofish.com.au
MOLIX RT FORK FLEX 3IN
The Molix RT Fork Flex has become a go-to soft plastic in Aussie waters, and it’s now available in a handy 3in size. Made from the Molix formula—an ultra-buoyant, soft yet durable compound enriched with salt and scent—this V-tail plastic delivers a seductive, sinuous action. Ideal for both fresh and saltwater species, it suits a range of rigging styles including drop shot, jig head, weedless, and vertical pelagicstyle rigs. It floats naturally on the pause, making it more visible and effective in slow retrieves. A small belly slot allows for added weight or rattles to dial up the attraction even further.
ejtodd.com.au
VEXED BOTTOM WORM LONGSHANK
The Bottom Worm Longshank, a micro version of the Bottom Meat, is for lighter gear and smaller inshore species. It serves as a standalone lure or a fish-catching sinker in a paternoster rig, boosting catch rates with its hybrid design. Featuring a sharp BKK longshank hook and scented Vexed Bottom Worm, it’s ideal for presenting small baits like worm, pipi, squid, prawn, and mussel effectively. Available in various sizes and hooks, suitable for diverse fishing environments. vexedfishing.com.au
M c LURES SEA MONKEY BULLET 5.5
Designed in Australia and built to perform, the Sea Monkey Bullet from McLures is made for high-speed trolling. Its bullet-shaped resin head features four jet holes to maximise bubble trail, while a UV over-skirt and glow-in-the-dark “Luminite” underskirt ramp up the visibility. Red Crystal 3D eyes and near-indestructible construction round out this tough little lure. Measuring 6.75” overall with a 5.5” skirt and weighing 48g, it’s ideal for targeting tuna and other fastmoving pelagics. Head colours range from glow to tinted and even Kauri Shell, with eight colour combos in total. Best trolled further back at higher speeds, the Sea Monkey Bullet is built for aggressive fish and tough conditions.
jurofishing.com
SHIMANO PLAYS 3000
Shimano recently launched the Plays 3000, a high-performance electric reel designed for offshore anglers. Take on big fish with confidence and ease. The Plays 3000 is equipped with a high-revolution, high-torque Muteki motor, engineered for powerful retrievals and capable of shifting to a power-focused mode for hard-fighting fish. With a line capacity of PE No.6 300m, it’s ready for serious offshore action. Designed to be simple, reliable, and easy to use, this model delivers essential electric reel performance at a high level—all while offering excellent value. The Plays 3000 is the perfect starting point for anglers looking to experience electric reel fishing without compromise. shimanofish.com.au
FISHCRAFT SPIN DOCTOR
The Spin Doctor casting minnow is a versatile and durable lure. Available in 30g and 40g sizes, this lure excels whether you’re casting from the rocks, beach, or boat. Its lifelike swimming action mimics distressed baitfish, making it an easy target for nearby predators. Designed in Australia & built with premium saltwater hardware, the Spin Doctor is tough enough to endure harsh conditions. It’s super durable paint finish ensures it stands up to countless strikes. Ready to perform cast after cast, the Spin Doctor is the perfect addition to your saltwater arsenal. samaki.com.au
DECOY R-51 FRONT
RING
The R-51 Front Ring is a compact yet durable solution for anglers who need fast and reliable line changes on the water. Acting much like a snap but with a simpler profile, it’s designed for both saltwater and freshwater fishing. The Out Cut design helps maintain the natural action of your lure while reducing the chance of line damage or knot slippage during hard fights. With a corrosion-resistant finish and tool-free operation, the R-51 is a versatile, hassle-free addition to your terminal tackle.
decoyhooks.com.au
EAGLE CLAW BAITHOLDER CIRCLE
The L2196 Baitholder Circle Hook provides anglers with a regulationcompliant inline circle hook with two bait slits on the shank. The up eye allows for easy snelling and even straight-line pull direction. The business end of the L2196 features a sharp yet durable forged point that can take a beating and retain its sharpness. This revolutionary American made NonOffset baitholder comes in a platinum black and ranges from sizes 2/0 to 7/0. Circle hooks are purposefully designed with conservation in mind, ensuring both the sustainability of fisheries and an extremely high bite-tohook-up ratio.
tacspo.com.au
MERIDIAN SPECTRE SERIES
SEAHORSE
DELUXE RUBBER LANDING NET
The Seahorse Deluxe Rubber Landing Net is a must-have for serious fishos who care about their catch. Built tough and finished with a full rubber mesh, this net is as fish-friendly as it gets. The knotless mesh eliminates tangles, prevents fin damage, and helps avoid hook fouling – making it perfect for catch and release. Its deep bag design cradles fish securely, while the sturdy frame and comfortable handle make landing even the feistiest species a breeze. Whether you’re flicking lures for trout in freshwater streams or netting pan-sized reds from the yak, this net is dependable, practical, and built to last. Available now and ideal for all-round use.
tacspo.com.au
The Spectre series consists of a range of six sizes. This head is very different to most other heads on the market, having an offset 10 degree cup face running an offset tow point, that big tuna find impossible to refuse. The Spectre is best suited to the long corner, long rigger and shot gun position, with an ideal running speed of between 5-9 knots. meridiantackle.com.au
A 100% fluorocarbon leader that features high abrasion resistance and high sensitivity. The design allows for a perfect transfer of movement to your jig or lure to hook a fish. Even though it is fluorocarbon, it can withstand big shock becasue of its smooth and tenacious features. Knot strenght is excellent. Parallel spooling decreases line surface damage.
Made in Japan. Available in:
50m 12lb to 50lb.
30m 60lb & 100lb
Full Contact X8 is a high-performance PE line designed for targeting large fish like kingfish, tuna, and GT. It offers exceptional strength, durability, and smooth casting. The moderate elasticity reduces tangles, while the SAKURA pink colour provides high visibility in low light. Ideal for offshore lure fishing.
Made in Japan.
Sakura Pink 300m PE 4 to PE 12
This copolymer nylon blend with TRP processing offers impressive power,
abrasion resistance, and water-repelling properties. It remains supple and easy to handle, with excellent knot strength. The leader absorbs shock from strikes and hook sets, preserving lure movement offering tenacious performance to land big fish.
Made in Japan. Available in: 50m 4lb to 150lb.
SALTY CREW YELLOWFIN FLEECE LINED ZIP
Built for warmth without compromising style, the Yellowfin Fleece Lined Zip in Vintage Black is made from a heavyweight 380gsm brushed fleece blend with a faux-shearling lining through the body for extra insulation. It features a two-piece hood with drawcord, ribbed cuffs and hem, self-fabric kanga pocket, and a sturdy metal front zip. Digital prints front and back give it that classic Salty Crew look, while the relaxed fit makes it perfect for early morning starts and post-session comfort. Available in sizes S through XXXL. salty-crew.com.au
GAFF-MANN XL COD NET
Introducing the Gaff-Mann XL Cod Landing Net, expertly designed and crafted in Australia for exceptional performance in local waters. This net features a PVC coated mesh (2x2mm) with dimensions of 800mm wide, 800mm long, and 800mm deep, ensuring durability and reliability. Its fittings are constructed from 316 stainless steel, offering superior corrosion resistance. The handle, made from structural grade aluminium, measures 1010mm in length, providing a sturdy grip for landing large catches. Customers have the option to request a longer handle for an additional cost, tailored to their specific needs. If you’re looking for a net that can handle big Murray cod or barra in the impoundments, there isn’t anything on the market that can compete.
gaff-mann.com.au
SNOWBEE NEOPRENE CHEST WADERS
Snowbee’s trusted Neoprene Chest Waders aren’t new, but they’re now supplied in a practical carry bag instead of a box—just in time for the colder months when they really come into their own. These bootfoot waders are built from 4mm double-lined SCR neoprene for warmth and comfort, with a wide-fitting PVC boot that’s fully neoprene-lined. Tough screen-printed knee reinforcement offers extra protection when kneeling, and the high-back cut and adjustable neoprene brace straps ensure a secure fit. A large front pouch pocket rounds out a solid winter essential for anglers. Sizes 6–13. ejtodd.com.au
Samaki Zing Rod
The 4th Generation Zing Series pushes performance further with:
> HyperKinetic Nano+ Fibre Graphite Blanks for enhanced sensitivity and power
> Fuji Concept “O” Guides for seamless line flow
> Samaki Exclusive Ergonomic Reel Seat designed for comfort
> Signature Camouflage Hard EVA Grips with Red Highlights for a firm hold
Designed for Estuary, Inshore, Travel, Egi, and Surf, the Zing series now features species-specific models in 7’2”, 7’4”, and 7’6” lengths.
Samaki Sora Spinning Reel
Engineered for durability and smooth operation, the Sora Spinning Reel features:
> Micro-Adjustable Carbon Fibre Drag for ultimate control
> Triple Anodized Aluminium Spool for longevity
> Sealed Stainless Steel Ball Bearings ensuring fluid performance
> Machined Aluminium Handle & Brass Pinion for strength and reliability
> Gold Anodized Line Roller & Waterproof Drag for added protection
Available in 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000 & 5000 sizes, the Sora is ready for light estuary to inshore battles.
FRESHWATER CRAYS WORTH RUGGING UP FOR THIS WINTER
Recreational fishers are being encouraged to brave the winter chill and head outdoors from 1 June, as the three-month Murray spiny freshwater crayfish season kicks off across northern and north-east Victoria. This prized native species offers an exciting challenge for anglers of all ages and skill levels, requiring only basic gear such as a hoop net or a simple baited string.Cray fishing is a popular winter tradition for many Victorian families, with opportunities to enjoy a campfire meal or safely release catches back into the water. The legal size range for Murray spiny freshwater crayfish is 10–12 centimetres, measured from just behind the eye socket to the end of the carapace. This rule helps protect large, breeding females and ensures the sustainability of the species. A recent study, funded by recreational fishing licence fees, has shown healthy crayfish populations at 17 sites across the region. Surveys conducted by the Arthur Rylah Institute and Nature Glenelg Trust found stable numbers since 2016, with some increases around Shepparton and Wodonga.Anglers must follow key rules: a daily bag limit of two crayfish, a possession limit of four per person, and adherence to the size limits. More information is available via the VicFishing app or at [www.vfa.vic.gov.au/fishingguide](http://www.vfa.vic. gov.au/fishingguide).
www.vfa.vic.gov.au/fishingguide
DAIWA
SALTIST MQ
Winter is an sensational time to hit the salt, and the Daiwa Saltist MQ is built for exactly that. With a one-piece aluminium Monocoque body, the Saltist MQ is tough, lightweight, and refined—ready to take on Aussie conditions. Daiwa’s famous Magseal technology teams up with the MQ body for top-tier protection from saltwater intrusion, while a larger Tough Digigear delivers serious torque and cranking power. Features like the Air Rotor, ATD drag, and Longcast ABS spool make it a performance standout, whether you’re flicking plastics for flatties or battling reef thugs up north. Available in sizes 2500 to 20000, the Saltist MQ is ready for wherever your winter fishing takes you. daiwafishing.com.au
SPORTSMAN BOATS AUSTRALIA WELCOMES WYNNUM MARINE TO DEALER NETWORK
Sportsman Boats Australia is pleased to announce that Wynnum Marine has joined its national dealer network. Established in 1946 and based beside the water at Fox Street, Wynnum, this respected family-owned dealership has built a reputation for quality service, expert advice and strong customer relationships. With over 70 years of experience and a line-up that already includes Cruise Craft, Yamaha and Stacer, Wynnum Marine is a trusted name in the Queensland boating scene. The addition of Sportsman’s highperformance centre consoles is a natural fit for a dealership known for its commitment to traditional excellence and passion for the boating lifestyle. Sportsman Boats Australia is proud to partner with Wynnum Marine and looks forward to bringing more innovation, reliability and fishing capability to local boaters through this new alliance.
sportsmanboats.com.au | wynnummarine.com.au
PROVEN
TO CATCH
BLUEFIN...
LOTS OF BLUEFIN
Our latest innovation in game lures, the Jonah’s Kona XT, does all the things you want it to, it swims erratically, it has a pronounced wiggle, and it creates an impressive smoke trail. And most importantly it catches tuna. Big tuna, small tuna, and all the tuna in between. Show your mates how the experts do it. Troll a 6” or 8” Jonah’s Kona XT this SBT season.
SNAPPER ON PLASTICS
Sam Gilchrist can still remember the moment he was converted to a new method for reds – and he’s never looked back .
Words & Images: Sam Gilchrist
Snapper on plastics in close proximity to reef is amazing fishing that’s hard to beat!
Twenty-four years ago there was an article published in the Modern Fishing Magazine that for me, revolutionised the way we fish for snapper in Australia and the way we all fish as a collective group of anglers.
That article was titled ‘Snapper on SP’ and was crafted by one of our industry stalwarts, David Rae. The article was only a page or so long and if you had casually flicked through the magazine you’d have missed it. However, I can recall exactly where I was and what I was doing when I read that article and the many pennies that dropped while reading it.
I recall feeling the sensation around the realisation that snapper were effectively an extension of their estuary cousin the bream – and bream anglers had been targeting their quarry with artificial lures for years. Flathead have been demolishing Mister Twisters for years and more recently (at that time) Squidgies – of course this had to work, and why hadn’t I thought of this before!
The next trip to sea would see our lives changed forever, and it’s not often that happens in our sport.
Looking Back
I didn’t fully understand it at the time, but when I moved from out west (Oberon NSW) to return to the coast, specifically Coffs Harbour, a spark was lit in me and that spark was the passion to chase snapper inshore. This developed into a genuine obsession.
Humble beginnings are probably the best way to describe most people’s snapper angling journey, and mine was no different. For the most part you’d select your chosen patch of reef for the morning or afternoon session, carefully anchor to position your vessel upcurrent of your snapper haunt, and begin to berley the water with your chosen chum. Then you would float baits down your berley trail aiming to temp a snapper out of the trail and onto your carefully presented bait. You’d
also have a bait on the bottom, just to cover the water column more thoroughly.
There was a real art to this method, often referred to as floatlining (or straylining in NZ), and there certainly is a place for it in your skillset today. A basic set-up was an overhead combo, 30lb monofilament line, a small ball sinker and a 6/0 octopus hook. That was it, cheap and effective.
The downside to this technique became far more obvious when soft plastics took off –essentially you were fixed in one spot, and to move your anchor and re-establish a berley trail was a pain and you’d generally spook any snapper in the area.
The Initial Change
The initial switch, while ridiculously effective, also presented its challenges. It’s a great yarn that I’ll share with you.
When targeting big snapper over shallow reefs, quality outfits and terminal tackle is essential.
So, we’d been floatlining reds (snapper) for a lot of years and all of a sudden I had stumbled across Dave Rae’s article so I’ve gone to check the garage for an outfit I can use to chase reds on SP. The best kit I could locate at the time was a TSS4 Speedmaster spin reel and a Live Fibre 8ft 6-10kg spin stick, essentially my tailor spinning kit.
I called a good mate I fished with regularly, Gavin Hackett, and explained the contents of Dave’s article and a plan I had to fish south of Coffs for snapper on SP. Gav leapt at the opportunity so we managed to rustle up our tailor spinning kit, whack on some Fireline, some flathead lures, some jigheads and off we went.
In today’s terms that equipment was archaic, but it was all we had. I’ll never forget what ensued on that first fateful drift. I vividly recall Gav had a Squidgy Fish Drop Bear and I had a Gary Glitter of the same make. As we both cast, Gav says, “So what do we do here?”
and my response was, “I have no idea”. In that instance Gav still had his bail arm open and braid started ripping from his reel as a snapper had smashed his plastic on the fall. We just looked at each other in shock as he engaged his baitrunner and set the hook.
That day we managed to land 16 snapper and four pearl perch in 16m of water. Incredible!
The Challenges
So, a new era is born. Now what? We had to reassess our entire outlook on how we fished and we needed the technology and equipment to catch up.
There were no rods built for this purpose; I think the Berkley Drop Shot (in light blue) might have been the first, the spin reel didn’t catch up until the Certate HD series hit the market and the Stellas took off, braids were limited to Fireline and Spiderwire until PowerPro, J-Braid and Fins hit the shelves, and I’m not sure anyone could even spell fluorocarbon back then.
These were the obvious issues, but the one that cost us the most was the quality of the jigheads compared with the power of the snapper’s bite. We had jigheads mangled, straightened, bent in half and absolutely destroyed. I still see TTs that are demolished by trophy reds.
Other punters at the boat ramp or cleaning tables would ask how we got on, and “what did you catch on”. We would respond, “Really well (most of the time)… and soft plastics”, to which we would receive, “Nope, those silly things don’t work” at least nine times out of ten. You won’t find a boat without an SP setup today.
The Equipment Today
Technology caught up and with the explosion of the offshore soft plastic sport fishing scene came one of fishing’s many revolutions. These days I have two set ups that I use. A slightly lighter outfit that is my go-to and a heavier set-up for shallow country and big fish.
Main Outfit
Rod: Daiwa Spartan S72 2/3
Reel: Daiwa Certate 4000 ARK
Line: 30lb J-Braid Expedition
Leader: 25lb Daiwa S-Link Fluorocarbon
Jighead: Bait Junkie 3/8th 7/0
Heavy Outfit
Rod: Daiwa Spartan S78 3/4
Reel: Daiwa Saltiga 4000
Line: 40lb J-Braid Expedition
Leader: 25lb Daiwa S-Link Fluorocarbon
Jighead: Bait Junkie 3/8th 7/0
Both of these outfits are designed and built to stop big fish in shallow country. A few anglers work with 15lb outfits with mixed success. For me, a white-knuckle approach is the best.
The New Way of Thinking
With our new-found success came a very steep learning curve. The way we fished changed forever: no more anchors (well, sea anchors, or so we learned once the breeze got up). We now had to look at, plan and approach our fishing trips very differently. This new-found excitement opened up a whole new playing field, and new zones all of a sudden became an open pasture to drift and explore. Wind direction, current, leading edges, bait-holding ledges, drop-offs and gravel beds became a significant part of the formula we needed to learn to consistently find snapper.
Add to this mix moon phases, tides, tide changes and the establishment of key bite times, and finding reds soon became my number one obsession while on the brine.
Planning a Session
Taking into consideration the former, when planning a snapper SP session we’d line-up the following factors. I’d have a few ideas of where I’d like to be and when, then make key decisions on the water.
The weather: Back in the old Cruise Craft days I’d have to allow for the wind, travel into the wind early and home with it later. With the 620 Sea Devil I don’t have to plan for the wind as much.
When I refer to the wind, I actually mean the influence the wind has on your drifts and how you must allow for it when planning the approach to your chosen reef.
Know the leading edge: if you’re ever lucky enough to dive the reefs you fish you’ll notice all the bait will sit on the leading edge of the reef, so you’ll need to understand the current direction and where it’s hitting your reef first.
You’ll need to then assess your drift speed, drift depth and what depth your snapper are feeding at. This will determine the jighead weight you fish. The slower you can fish your plastic, the more bites you’ll get.
Water quality: You’ll learn when the snapper feed and what water they prefer. It’s blue, but not too clear, they’re so easily spooked it’s almost ridiculous, once you find this water, be confident and fish it with purpose. You will catch.
Snapper will hold in the same spots over and over. We’ve caught tagged fish that have been at liberty for 18 months or more and haven’t
moved more than 200m. Obviously they swim around, but they don’t go far and if you hit them too hard they will move on, or be fished out of that location and it can take years for them to return.
Plan your drift: And plan it from a long way out – you need to be stealthy, really stealthy, no noise, no dropping hatches or pliers, no heavy feet and don’t be afraid to fish the deep side of the leading edge, as snappers do enjoy sitting out on the gravel.
The Best Part
When it all comes together, there are not many better things in fishing than your braid ripping off the surface as a big snapper inhales your soft plastic, your braid rips tight and drag leaves your reel – it’s go time!
The first run from a big snapper gets the adrenaline pumping.
It’s a great way to introduce kids to lure fishing and handling big fish and heavier drag pressures.
You may have picked up on the slack line reference, so always fish toward your drift and on slack line, as most of your bites will come on the drop or on the fall.
When you get the bite, set the hook hard as snapper mouths are as tough as nails and you’ll improve your hook placement and success rate significantly with a proper hook-set. Once you’re engaged in the fight I don’t give them an inch.
Lethally Effective
This method is extraordinarily effective and accessible to anyone. When a way of targeting a species is so effective it affects the population of a species, we as anglers are responsible for our actions and what we take. In NSW the legal bag limit is 10 snapper per person per day, and fishing with soft plastics it is very possible you could encounter and even land 10 snapper in a hot session. Please take care with your catch and take only what you need.
We always bleed any fish we plan to take for the table and keep them on an ice slurry immediately after capture, though we rarely keep more than four fish for the boat as there’s a lot of edible sections to four healthy snapper.
The Trophy and The Unicorn
In NSW any fish over 60cm (total length) is a healthy specimen, any fish over 80cm is a great fish, any fish over 90cm is a trophy and the fish over a metre is the unicorn. I have only ever seen two over 1m, though a 107cm was recently captured in Sydney Harbour, of all places. As a guide when considering which fish to release, we generally release any fish over 75cm. There is no rule or requirement to do this, just what we do to preserve the larger fish and keep the smaller, better quality for eating fish.
Release
Snapper are a sensitive species that can be very difficult to release. A release weight is a great tool as barotrauma effects snapper and getting them back down to depth can be the difference between surviving the fight and the release or not.
Keep your fish moist or wet and take your photographs as quickly as possible so as to give that fish the best chance of survival. It’s surprising how many minutes can fly past when you’re dealing with a fish on the deck of the boat.
I hope you fall in love with snapper and chasing them on soft plastics as much as I have – enjoy the chase, the rush and one of the most beautiful fish in the world.
Fish of this size is what it’s all about.
This snapper took a liking to a Bait Junkie Jerkshad.
The Bait Junkie jerkshad doing it again. It’s a proven snapper bait across many states.
RIVER DRIFT 2025
Colby Lesko reflects on two weeks of casting for topwater river cod.
Words & Images: Colby Lesko
Catching big Murray cod out of the Murray is the best way to do it.
I love the first few frosty mornings of the year after a warm summer and this is one of my favourite times to be on the water chasing big Murray cod. For several years now I’ve devoted a prolonged period of time on the rivers drifting for Murray cod and 2025 was no different. I set aside two weeks on the rivers drifting for big Murray cod with a real focus around chasing big fish with surface lures. I wanted to mix it up by fishing three different locations to give me a fresh mindset at each place – and offer different fishing and scenery.
Once the boat was fully loaded with all the gear for a fortnight on the water, I hit a new location for the start of the drift, full of anticipation and confidence. The water quality at the river looked great and I had about 80km of water to fish over the first week. The first few days were tough and while I did catch a couple of smaller Murray cod, it was not heading the way I had hoped. The river had just received a small pulse
of water sent down from a dam above and this must have upset the fish. Despite my persistence, I was unable to find any good fishing at all in this section of river. By the afternoon of day three, I decided my best bet was to change sections of river to escape the pulse of water and bad fishing. After driving around looking at a few sections of water I decided to move to the next weir downstream about 100km away, as the water below here was steady and the channel off the weir was absorbing most of the flow from the pulse. Day four in the new location marked the first day of good fishing for the trip. The water was slightly lower and clearer and, combined with a stormy overcast morning, the fish turned on. I was able to land three fish off the top in the morning session with one of them being a big old river beast. This fish made the first week of fishing worth it and was followed by another couple of quiet days fishing to round out the week. This just goes to show how unpredictable big Murray cod are.
For the second week, I was fishing the first four days with my brother up high in the clear, fast water. Once we got to this new location, we were instantly met by great fishing with fish landed every session and in some of the better sessions we had over 10 hits off the surface. On the second afternoon in the clear water, I cast my surface lure in the right spot again and it was exploded onto by a great 104cm fish. The fish took some landing in the current after it went under a log but after a few intense moments, I was able to pull him out. I’d been chasing one of these clear water ‘meteries’ for a while now so I was very happy with this fish. The great fishing continued the next day as we both landed quality fish off the surface the following morning. This location fished much better than the others and was the real highlight of the trip. The final session in the fast water
was still a tough one, though, producing only two missed surface bites and a smaller fish each on spinnerbaits. It just shows how even during good periods there can be tough sessions. After catching a good number of fish in the fast water it was time for my brother to head home and for me to move to the final location of the trip.
I headed lower down the river by myself for the final four days. The plan was to try my hardest to land another metre-plus fish off the surface in the final location. The first couple of sessions were tough, with only a couple of missed boofs, but at midday on day two (of the final location) another river monster engulfed my surface lure. The third river metre-plus Murray cod of the trip was landed after an intense battle in some timber. This marked the start of some good fishing for big fish, as the following morning I was snapped off by another metre-plus fish on the surface and landed a really nice one that afternoon.
AT
MIDDAY ON DAY TWO ANOTHER RIVER MONSTER ENGULFED MY SURFACE LURE.
The final day of the trip didn’t produce a single bite and reminded me just how finicky and random Murray cod can be.
Despite the periods of tough fishing I had during the two weeks on the water, I was still extremely happy with the three metre-plus fish I did land off the surface. These river fish really are the fish of a lifetime and extremely hard to catch. These trips are just as much about time on the river, experiencing nature and camping under the stars, as they are about catching fish. The colder periods of the year certainly aren’t the best for catching big numbers of fish but with a lot of persistence they are great periods for these bigger fish.
Every time I do these prolonged drift trips, I learn a lot about Murray cod and this year was no different. I learnt that water quality, flow, weather and everything can be perfect for a big fish bite, but it still may take a week to get your surface lure in front of the right fish. During these cooler periods of the year when there are fewer small fish around, this can zap your confidence whether anything is going to happen. But persisting for the one big bite is key. Also, weather changes such as a storm or overcast weather helped for the big fish bites. When it was calm and sunny for multiple days in a row the fishing was tough. I fished three totally different locations and caught one metre-plus fish at each spot and this really suggested to me it’s not about the location. It’s about spending time on the water to get a big bite.
This year was an extremely dry season in most of the Murray-Darling Basin so while the water in the river was clear due to no storm run-off, the irrigation flows were high. There was lots of water moving down the rivers for irrigation and food production and the rivers were at higher levels than I would usually fish them. I think the fish were used to these higher flows over the past 12 months and it didn’t seem to affect the fishing too much.
EVERY TIME I DO THESE PROLONGED DRIFT TRIPS, I LEARN A LOT ABOUT MURRAY COD AND THIS YEAR WAS NO DIFFERENT.
Just two Samaki outfits kept the small boat spacious and handled all the authors needs.
When the sun is up, the spinnerbiats come out. This one taken on a Spinwright.
A beautifully conditioned cod.
Building a brighter future for Macquarie perch
Construction has begun on a Macquarie Perch Recovery Centre to bring ‘Maccas’ back to their former glory.
The project is funded by a $15 million Victorian Government investment to expand our Snobs Creek and Arcadia hatcheries to produce more native species.
The centre will produce up to 500,000 Maccas a year to rebuild wild populations, which were once prevalent across northern Victoria. In addition, up to 500,000 trout cod will be grown, taking advantage of the cool water at Snobs.
The hope is one day these stockings will make a big enough difference and restore recreational fishing opportunities for both species.
The centre will include world-class recirculation technology that can re-use up to 400,000 litres of water per day and enable staff to manipulate air and water temperatures and light levels to maximise production.
Incoming water from Snobs Creek will be treated using ceramic membrane filtration and UV sterilisation, before being recirculated with underground sumps to disinfect, heat and re-oxygenate the water.
The new centre will put into practice what is currently being learned through a partnership to ‘crack the code’ on reliably breeding Maccas in captivity.
Getting all the variables to line up in the rivers is virtually impossible so if you have reasonable clarity and flows it is always worth a crack.
I must have done over 10,000 casts during the 14-day period and fished as hard as was physically possible. I fished from first light to last light every day, only stopping for some short breaks during the middle of the day on some of the quieter days. I had a massive focus on fishing a big surface paddler as I really love seeing the big ones eat a surface paddler but if you wanted to catch more fish sub-surface lures would be ideal during the day. I’m sure I would have drifted past thousands of metre-plus cod as I covered over 160km of river, yet I landed only three, showing everything has to be perfect to get that bite. These trips are a great adventure and you certainly don’t need heaps of expensive gear.
I MUST HAVE DONE OVER 10,000 CASTS DURING THE 14-DAY PERIOD AND FISHED AS HARD AS WAS PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE.
A tinny, a swag, an Esky and couple of rods will get you by as you drift down the river. One of my favourite features of this trip is anyone can do it and there are literally thousands of kilometres of river in the Murray-Darling Basin to explore.
Ideally you organise someone to drop you off and pick you up on drift trips like this but if that isn’t possible you can use your outboard motor to drive all the way back up after a few days of drifting. This year I packed the push bike for the sections where I had no one to drop me off for. I simply stashed the bike at the bottom of my drift and rode it back up the road to my car, which worked great. I’ve done a fair bit of exploring now but there’s still so much to look at. I still haven’t found that dream stretch full of meteries that I dream about and I’m already keen for next year’s trip to explore new stuff again.
The mighty Murray is well worth spending a week drifting for cod.
Miles and miles of stucture.
While they weren’t all monsters they were all well conditioned.
astro vibe 35 astro shrimp
3.5cm 5grams Sinking
The Astro Vibe 35 and Astro Shrimp lures, incorporates a Polycarbonate Belly with small in built rattles. It also allows for a transparent finish to be achieved in a metal blade and the belly section is UV for added attraction. The Astro Vibe and Shrimp are effective on Bream, Bass, Estuary Perch, Yellowbelly, Mulloway, Flathead and Redfin. 4cm 10grams Sinking
Gosen has been innovating fishing lines for 70 years since its founding in 1951. Now, Gosen has released its technique specific range. From the lightest lines imaginable to the heaviest.
Gosen has the Answer.
Made in Japan
15 TIPS FOR TACKLING SWORDFISH
This is one species that really lives up to the hype – so do everything to put the odds in your favour when you hook-up.
Words & Images: Jonah Yick
1.Use Big Overhead Reels
Overhead reels in the 50 to 80 size class are preferred, as the larger spool diameter of these reels serves two purposes. One, they can hold the large amounts of line required to fish in depths up to 650m of water, and two, it means that you can wind baits up from the deep at a reasonable rate – the bigger the spool diameter, the more line you will recover with each crank of the handle. Shimano Tiagras and Penn Internationals are two popular reels used for sword fishing, while the Shimano Talica has risen in popularity due to its large spool diameter and comparatively light weight. I run Tiagras and Internationals as I already owned them before I started chasing swordfish, and given the majority of the fight is in a harness, I don’t notice the additional weight of the reel. It also helps if the reel has the ability to operate at two speeds (high and low gear) as swordfish are notorious for ‘stalemating’ under the boat for hours at a time, where a low gear is beneficial for slowly cranking the fish to gain line.
2. Use Braid or Hollow Core
Spool your reels with primarily braid or hollow core line. This is due to the fact that braid/hollow core line has a much thinner diameter than monofilament line of equal strength, and has very little stretch. Not only does this mean you can fit more line on your reel, which is especially important when dropping baits half a kilometre to the sea floor, but the reduced stretch also assists with bite detection and setting the hook. The thinner diameter of the line also results in reduced drag of the line in the water column and is less influenced by wind, current and tide. This means the bait will drift less and in a controlled manner, keeping it in the strike zone for longer. Generally, 80 to 130 pound breaking strain line will suffice, with a short topshot (100m or less) of similar breaking strain monofilament line.
The monofilament topshot acts as a shock absorber without taking the sensitivity away from seeing the bites, but also adds abrasion resistance in the final stages of the fight when the swordfish is close to the boat. Heavy monofilament line is much more forgiving than braid if it rubs on a part of the boat
or motor, therefore the more often you can have monofilament on the reel during the fight, the better. I use approximately 100m of monofilament as a topshot as I have found once a swordfish settles into a fight, it generally stays around 100m or less from the boat.
3. Learn to Tie a PR Knot
… or know someone who can tie this knot for you! This is arguably the best knot to join heavy monofilament to braided line. It is smooth, has zero resistance running through the rod guides, and retains almost 100% of the line’s breaking strength. It is not the type of knot you can easily tie on the boat, and it requires a tool called a bobbin, which assists in making multiple tight wraps of braid around the monofilament. If using hollow core line, you can also make a seamless join by splicing the monofilament inside the hollow core line. Whatever join you do, make sure you test it almost to failure as this is a knot you don’t want to fail during a fight with a swordfish.
Bent Butt Game Rods
A bent butt is the preferred option given it fits in the gunwhale rod holders easily and the rod tip sits horizontally, which assists in seeing bites. There are now many specialised swordfishing rods on the market that are which are a combination of a slow and fast taper action. They should have a sensitive tip for bite detection, but enough strength towards the butt of the rod to put serious pressure on the fish. Many specialist sword rods now consist of braid-resistant standard guides, which cuts down on the maintenance that rollers require, and reduces the risk of braid slipping out and jamming in the edges of the rollers.
5. Rig Your Baits Carefully
Swordfish are not fussy and will take a range of baits, from squid to whole fish, or strips of fish belly. What is important is to take the time to stitch the bait up securely, for three reasons. One, swordfish are messy eaters and will commonly slash at their prey first. Your bait needs to be robust enough to take a few hits initially, and still hold
together in one piece to be consumed by the swordfish eventually. Number two, you may be dropping the bait anywhere from 400 to 600m deep, therefore the bait needs to be attached securely to the hook to last the long drop through the water column. Lastly, there are plenty of other smaller fish down deep with sharp teeth that will take a liking to your bait. You need your bait to be able to withstand these pickers as best as possible. The other thing that will not only help protect your bait, but also act as an attractant, is putting a plastic lumo skirt over the top of it –generally in the 12 to 15 inch range.
Rig the majority of your baits at home, so you aren’t wasting time on the water when you could have a bait soaking. I usually rig five baits at home beforehand, then freeze them in separate bags so they are ready to go for the next sword trip.
6. No Light, No Bite!
Additional lights can help to attract swordfish to your baits, given they have big eyes and exceptional sight. I usually run a combination of smaller Duralite diamond lights with a single colour, as well as a larger multicoloured disco-style light. Avoid using red lights as they are the first colour to be absorbed at depth, and therefore will not be overly attractive.
7. The Breakaway Sinker
The sacrificial sinker set-up is probably one of the most specific and important parts of the swordfish rig. The aim of the sinker is to get the bait down to the bottom in a fast and controlled manner, but then allow the bait to break away from the sinker, which results in the bait naturally wafting up the water column. Swordfish are a pelagic predator and
will feed in all depths of the water column, but during the day are generally closer to the sea floor. Bricks, rocks and steel or iron bars all work well as weights, and the breakaway mechanism can consist of either light monofilament line or even a wire hook. Experiment with various lengths and breaking strains of line, as these can change depending on the sea conditions on the day.
8. Black Magic Gimbal and Harness
An underrated piece of equipment when swordfishing is the Black Magic Tackle Equalizer gimbal and harness. Swordfish are renowned as one of the hardest-fighting fish in the ocean, and their fighting style can result in long, gruelling fights where the fish sits directly under the boat for hours at a time. Given the size of swordfish can range anywhere from 20kg to 350kg+, it is not worth buying a cheap gimbal and harness, or not buying one at all. Doing so will result in an extended and painful fight that will most likely result in the loss of a fish. If you are going to all that effort to chase one of these fish of a lifetime, make sure you are prepared for the battle, as there is no substitute for the Equalizer combo.
9. Test all Knots and Connections
Double and triple check all your connections, leaders and topshots before, during and after a fishing trip. If there is a scuff, imperfection or sign of wear, cut it off and re-rig. Additional care should be taken if you fight a fish for an extended period on that particular outfit, whether it is landed or not. Swordfish demand respect, and if there is a weakness in your gear, they will find it.
10. Reading Bathymetric Charts
When fishing over the continental shelf it can be overwhelming initially, given there are no physical landmarks, and above water it appears as a big expanse of ocean. In order to gain insight into where to start fishing, it is important to acquire a bathymetric chart app, either on your phone, or on your GPS plotter. With this alone you can start to have a few trial drops, even without reading the bottom. Before you head out fishing, it is worth spending some time on dry land to work out exactly where you plan to drop. Do this by inspecting your bathymetric chart application and start looking for areas of interest on the continental shelf. Swordfish are generally in areas where there is an accumulation of their prey, which can either be squid or demersal bottom fish such as blue grenadier, frostfish and gemfish. Look for the area of ground closest to the boat ramp you plan to launch from, then inspect the contour lines. Look for kinks and sharp bends in the lines on the shelf slope, as well as canyons (multiple circles), which could indicate bait-holding structure that in turn could attract swordfish. Areas where the contour lines squeeze tightly indicates a ledge of some sort, which could also be an area where bait or bottom fish hold on. Any depths from 350 to 600m are worth investigating, so mark any suitable structure in this range. When you are starting out, it doesn’t hurt to bring an electric reel to prospect on the new areas you are fishing. As long as you are catching bottom fish in the area, you are in the game.
11. Have A Suitable Sounder
Having a sounder that is suitable for deep depths is a big advantage, as it allows you to mark bait and fish. Generally, a 1kw transducer is recommended when fishing over the continental shelf, though I run a 600w transducer, which is still more than
sufficient at reading the bottom and finding bait accumulations. Bait or demersal fish will appear either as a ‘furry’ layer over the bottom, or you may see a thick band in midwater or just above the bottom, which can be anywhere from 50 to 300m thick. This layer is known as the deep scattering layer, or the scatter layer, and is an accumulation of various organisms such as lanternfish, squid, hydrozoans and pelagic tunicates. All of these organisms are sought-after prey items for deep-sea bottom fish, and in turn means it is also a likely spot to find a swordfish. At times it is worth having a prospective drop, even if there are no signs of life on the sounder but the contours on the chart look promising.
12. Fish One Rod at a Time
Given the depths you are fishing are anywhere from 400 to 650m, using one rod at a time is much more manageable and allows you to dedicate all your focus to the one set-up.
This is especially important when you take into account how subtle the bite is from a swordfish, and how wind, current and tide can all affect your ability to stay in contact with the bait. Some anglers will run two rods at a time while chasing swordfish, and (depending on the size of your boat and your skill level) it is certainly doable. However, it will increase the risk of tangles and requires a lot more maintenance on the deck.
13. Never Take Your Eyes off the Rod Tip
… or if you do, make sure someone else on board is still watching it! The bite of a swordfish can be more subtle than a bite from a trout, so you need to be ready to react and set the hook. Some anglers like to tease the swordfish into taking the bait by winding the bait up the minute they see a bite, others like to feed the bait back in free spool to allow it to swallow it, while some will simply wait until the rod loads up and the fish hooks itself under medium drag pressure. There is no right or wrong way of doing it, and you need to experiment to work out what works best for the situation. A swordfish bite isn’t necessarily a ‘bite’ per se, but it can also be any abnormal movement in the rod tip or line, i.e. slack in the line when it should pull tight as the boat comes up the swell, or a bend in the rod when the boat drops down a wave, indicating additional weight or pressure. Any of these signs should not be ignored, and you should react by winding up tight to it, to work out what is going on.
14. Maintain Contact With the
Bait
Ensure you are always in contact with the bait by keeping the line at almost 90-degrees to the rod. If there is current or wind, it becomes important to back up on the bait regularly. By doing this it is possible to fish for swordfish even in average conditions.
15.
Stay Calm and Don’t Panic When You Get a Bite
Once the hook has been set, nine times out of ten the swordfish will begin racing up to the surface. As a result, you will notice slack in the line and it is important to wind as hard as you can to keep the tension on the line and avoid the hook falling out. You can use the boat to assist with this by driving forwards. Upon reaching the surface, they either stay just under the surface of the water or will begin jumping or breaching. They will then usually power back down to settle at 50 to 100m. From here on it is a battle of sheer will power and strength, as to who will be first to give in, the angler or the fish! Although it can take many hours or potentially seasons to hook and land one of these amazing fish, I can assure you it will be 100% worth it. This is one species that lives up to the hype.
This new game changing device relieves nausea from motion sickness. The first ever waterproof wearable of its kind. Worn on the underside of the wrist, the Reliefband Sport can be toggled between 6 level settings, is battery rechargeable, and will last approximately 30 hours of use on a full charge.
www.ejtodd.com.au
ALPINE BROWNS
Flicking a paddle tail from the bank is a technique to challenge trolling for trout.
Words & Images: Dean Norbiato
Hilly with a solid brown taken in the shallows on a Bait Breath ET Shad.
Being a creature of habit, it took me a few trips to fully appreciate the pulling power of casting plastics from the bank for trout. In my defence, I cut my teeth trolling for trout as the dominant way we targeted them.
While I’m not a betting man I would punt that a huge portion of trout bums use trolling as their premier method to lure a fish into the net. It is a tremendous way to learn the nuances of lure fishing for the species, as it affords the anger plenty of down time to ponder the various factors that entice a trout to bite.
You can really interrogate the dive depth of your baits, the affect speed has on their action and even the role colour might play to tempt a trout or two. Additionally, trolling is a comfortable reprieve from the continuous casting, often through cold late nights, that a lot of native anglers endure throughout the winter months.
Wind in the Shallows
When assessing the best conditions to target trout on plastics from the bank, one factor sits head and shoulders above the rest. Unlike trolling, the wind is very much your friend when flicking from the bank. Ideally you would have a couple of days of continuous windy conditions blowing in roughly the same direction.
What this will do is move and concentrate a lot of small aquatic life into the dam’s margins. It will also cause a ruckus for any crustacean currently calling those banks home. It’s like a mini cyclone is ripping through their previously quaint little aquatic town.
Those uncomfortable conditions may force the yabbies in the eye of the cyclone to exit and look for calmer conditions. Like a chef ringing the dinner bell, this yabby movement signals it’s time to eat for trout.
The biggest tell-tale sign that enough rough weather has pounded an alpine edge to whip the trout into a feeding frenzy is the one to three metres of muddy shoreline that flank the bank.
This turbid water, traditionally in hues of brown or ochre, has zero visibility. Most anglers might think this spells the end of any effective lure fishing but that’s not giving credit to the numerous bait hunting senses a trout possesses to hunt their prey, over and above their eyesight. Often referred to as their ‘spider sense’ a trout’s lateral line, for instance, allows them to detect and then detonate on a yabby scurrying from its underwater hidey-hole in water with zero clarity.
We have found that more than three-quarters of the action you get is when your plastic is travelling in the milky ‘danger zone’, as my brother-in-law Jeff Harris coined it. You even have instances where the trout nearly beach themselves as they attack the plastic so late in the retrieve.
I remember a couple of trips back when a bullet of a brown sucked a plastic off the top of ankle-deep water as it breached the surface. It went aerial in an instant and made for some of the most spectacular visual action we have ever seen at Lake Eucumbene.
Now, while we have scored a number of nice fish on plastics on calm, still days you don’t tend to rack up the cricket score-like captures you see from fishing in the milky edge of a windswept alpine lake.
Trout Tackle
If you are targeting these wind-pounded banks, generally you are casting directly into the teeth of a stiff breeze, so you need the right tools for the job. Light 1-3kg spin rods that stand north of 7ft, paired with a 1000 to 2500-sized reel spooled to the brim with 6lb to 8lb braid, are par for the course.
That finesse set-up allows you to challenge the conditions and cast far enough to tempt the trout that sit outside the mud line. It also means you can use a relatively light jighead on your small plastic paddle tail and it won’t plummet and dredge the bottom on the way back.
The Bait Breath ET Shad 3in proved to be a standout lure on the trip.
This benefit is two-fold, as a lighter jighead will see your light plastic track in the bottom to middle of the water column where the fish are swimming and help you avoid jagging your bait on bottom-dwelling snags.
I have also experimented with both monofilament and fluorocarbon leaders and have found the advanced floating properties of mono make it a better option. Visibility isn’t really a factor as you are fishing predominantly in completely turbid water, so having a mono leader that helps lift your bait off the bottom is a worthy addition to your set-up.
Preferred Plastics
When it comes to the best plastics to use trout tend not to be super-fussy. We have caught them on every conceivable type of small plastic – curl tails, paddle tails, creature-style plastics and even frog imitations. But after countless trips there is one type that stands out from the plastic pack and that’s a 3in paddle tail.
Some of the brands and types that have racked up decent numbers on the cast include Bait Breath Egg Tail Shads, Berkley T-Tail Minnows, Charlie Brewer Slider Grubs, ZMan Slim SwimZ and Munroe’s Paddle Worm.
Colour-wise, it’s good to carry an array of options. If you are just getting started, the mandatory colour combos to call dibs in your box should be black/gold, cream/green, white/pearl and a fluoro option of your liking. Don’t be afraid to keep a close eye on the bank as you walk along the shore to see if any crustaceans, bugs or baitfish have washed up.
On one occasion we couldn’t get a bite to save our life in what seemed like the most idyllic plastic casting conditions. We had a howling breeze, ominous overhead clouds and a winter chill cold enough to make a snowman
smile. We also saw numerous trout rising in the milky wash but just couldn’t turn a scale.
As we passed the halfway point of a prominent point, my mate Hilly noticed a white, opaque and mangled baitfish in the bubbly foam on the edge of the water. In an instant he pulled on a white/pearl plastic. Against all logic, a colour change in nearchocolate brown water generated instant action. It’s like the trout were keyed into gouging themselves on small, white baitfish and had the blinkers on to any other prey in the vicinity.
This trip was relatively early in our plastic journey and I hadn’t yet added any white/ pearl plastics to my box. Lucky I use negotiation skills in my day job as it took every inch of my mediation ability to pry free a white plastic from Hilly’s tackle box.
Dinner sorted with a nice rainbow in the mix too.
Another solid trout coming on the Bait Breath ET Shad.
Head weight-wise, it’s worth carrying an array of jigheads in a box of various sizes, from 1/20oz to 1/8oz, and even multiple colour ways. I know the crew at TT Lures do a number of jig heads in different colours that the trout seem to react well to. Alternatively, I know a number of good trout anglers who raid their partner’s bright nail polish drawer and do a DIY job on their own jigheads.
Rewarding Retrieves
When it comes to the all-important retrieval techniques when targeting a trout from the bank on plastics, it’s best to keep it simple. The idiot-proof slow roll is employed more often than not. Simply blast out a cast as far as your ability will allow and then begin a slow roll back to the rod tip.
One addition you can add is lifting your rod as the bait nears the bank. This will help to keep it off the bottom and away from the hidden snags that can litter the shallows.
While a slow roll will work for most occasions, you can also play with the speed of your retrieve, especially as you get closer to the end of your cast. Playing with retrieval speed to mimic an erratic or fleeing crustacean or baitfish can elicit a reaction bite from an inquisitive trout.
When it comes to an overall casting strategy we always like to make at least three casts in one location before moving on. In its simplest form, and depending which way we walk the bank, we tend to cast to our left, out in front then to our right on a 45-degree angle.
This fanning motion ensures we cover the broadest spectrum of water as we progress along the bank. Don’t be afraid of casting in the same areas and lines as your angling mates, either.
Good lunches on the fire are as big a part of the trip as the fishing.
WHEN IT COMES TO AN OVERALL CASTING STRATEGY WE ALWAYS LIKE TO MAKE
AT LEAST THREE CASTS IN ONE LOCATION BEFORE MOVING ON.
Long rods and light leaders are a must on the wind swept banks.
We have found no real rhyme or reason when it comes to where and when the trout bite.
Unlike cod, which seem to ambush the first presentation at each snag, you can tempt a trout on any cast and at any time. We routinely get more trout on the second pass back down the same strip of bank as we make the pilgrimage back to the boat.
Low light conditions also seem to give trout an added bravado to brave the bank, with the best times tending to be early morning and late evening.
In saying that, a bigger influencing factor on bite times is the wind. I’d much rather fish in a howling midday breeze than statue-still early morning conditions.
Piffing Plastics
In what could have been considered blasphemy only a few years ago, I can now see myself charting a specific trout trip to the Snowy Mountains with only my plastics packed.
Trolling winged baits such as Tassie Devils, Stings and Lofty’s account for the lion’s share of trout lured in our cold-water lakes. While I can’t see that ledger ever being squared with any other bait type or even technique, I do see small plastics gaining meaningful ground.
Even the rusted-on trout trollers could do worse things than pack a pouch of small paddle tail plastics and some jigheads for their next trip. Then, if the breeze blows up like the Fremantle Doctor, jump out on the worst windswept bank and start piffing out the plastics –you might be pleasantly surprised.
Hilly with a solid brown taken at first light.
GALVANISED METAL CURVED WHEELGUARDS
HEAVY DUTY U-BOLTS ON AXLES
LOWERED REAR ROLLLER FOR EASY RETRIEVE IN SHALLOW WATER
Innovation by Chemistry
HEAVY DUTY CROSS MEMBERS
ROLLER ROCKER OR EYE TO EYE SUSPENSION
SWING AROUND DRAW BAR
SOCKETED SPARE WHEEL FOR BEACH LAUNCHING
Toray Super Strong PE F4 is an ultra-reliable 8-strand braid with superior strength and shock absorption. Its unique construction enhances durability and sensitivity, making it ideal for baitcast setups. Featuring a multi-coloured pattern for depth tracking, this premium Japanese-made line delivers precision and control.
HEAVY DUTY CHASSIS
Toray Power Game Lure Leader is a next-generation 100% fluorocarbon shock leader designed for all fishing styles. It offers exceptional impact resistance, ideal stiffness, and superior abrasion resistance, making it perfect for rocky terrain. Available in a 30m spool with an elastic band.
Toray Super Strong PE X8 is a smooth, supple, and ultra-strong 8-strand braid designed for precision jigging and twitching. Its round profile enhances casting, while abrasion resistance ensures durability in snaggy terrain. The five-colour design aids distance control. Available in 200m spools.
FRONT MESH INFILL
We know you’re looking for adventure! You want to get off the main highway and go where the fish are. We’ll get your boat there and back with our all-new C-Series Semi offroad series! Available in dual and single axle and engineered to suit your boat and the journey.
Toray Jigging PE Power Game X8 is a premium Japanese-made 8-strand braid designed for all jigging styles. Its special resin coating enhances abrasion resistance and smooth jig descent, while a five-colour pattern aids depth control. Also suitable for casting, it’s built for serious offshore anglers.
MUD TERRAIN TYRES & BLACK ALLOY WHEELS
