Hike Rocky Magazine, February 2021

HIKE ROCKY m a ga z i n e Vol. I, Issue 3 February, 2021

a publication of

HIKE ROCKY As I write, the thermometer out my window says -2 degrees and there is snow lightly falling. It’s a beau ful Valen ne winter day. More than a foot of snow has been added to the snowpack at Bear Lake over the last couple of weeks with steady, light snow each day, bringing us closer to reaching average snowpack. If you haven’t gone to Rocky Mountain Na onal Park to try out winter yet, now would be a good me (and if you can’t make it there, you can virtually experience it here!). This month, like last month, we at Hike Rocky Magazine provide you with several ways to enjoy winter in the Park, and ways to make sure you stay safe.

Our a en on this month is on skiing in the Park. The Trails of the Month feature, along with an in-depth ar cle from Marlene Borneman, will offer you some ideas where you can safely cross-country ski, while our resident gear expert Murray Selleck writes about Backcountry Essen als to help you be prepared for winter travel. Editor Barb Boyer Buck makes sure you are avalanche aware in her interview with Jason An n of the Colorado Mountain School. And I offer my usual rambling on some of my ski adventures in the Park.

But why stop at skiing for winter fun? Zach Coen looks at the challenges of winter fly fishing. And while some of us try to swoop around in the woods on skies, Sco Rashid showcases the forest-dwelling raptors that go swooping around trees on wings.

Finally, editor Barb Boyer Buck con nues her outstanding series on our region’s forest fire preparedness in Part 3 where she compiles her interviews with four fire managers who worked the Cameron Peak and East Troublesome fires. This mustread series offers you in-depth informa on that we should all be aware of and will prepare you to par cipate in a public listening session being hosted by

Above, Skiing at Hidden Valley, by Rio Roman of Estes Park Front cover photo contest winner: Snow Along the Glacier Creek Trail, by Pa Donahue of Estes Park.

Pa ’s statement: “ I am so thankful to live here in Estes Park and have the opportunity to get out in RMNP with family and friends as o en as I do. The beauty and serenity of nature is a grounding force in my life.

I am a very amateur photographer. I enjoy trying to capture these moments in nature by taking pictures, so I can keep these memories forever.”

Congressman Joe Neguse, which will include a panel discussion with Colorado Governor Polis and Senators Bennet and Hickenlooper. This event is on Thursday Feb. 18th and you can register to virtually a end by visi ng h ps://neguse2021.com/ Be informed, read HIKE ROCKY online magazine before you head for the hills!

Dave Rusk, Publisher

HIKE ROCKY Magazine is a publication of Barefoot Enterprises, LLC, and RockyMountainDayHikes.com, Estes Park, Colorado.

HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com Volume 1, Issue3, February 15, 2021 Copyright 2021, all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited.

Publisher: Dave Rusk Managing Editor: Barb Boyer Buck Copy Editor: Sybil Barnes Contributors to the January, 2021 edition: Scott Rashid, Marlene M. Borneman, Barb Boyer Buck, Dave Rusk, Z. F. Coen, Murray Selleck, Patti Donahue, Rio Roman, Brian Brown

a note from the managing editor Welcome to a new edi on of HIKE ROCKY online magazine - our skiing edi on! Explore all things skiing and more in this month’s issue.

call for submissions Here at HIKE ROCKY, we welcome (and pay for) quality content from contribu ng writers and photographers!

Each month, we will feature armchair travel, historical , and ecological pieces, stunning photographs, news, analysis and hiking advice for beginners and the more advanced hiker.

Anyone who is interested in submi ng may send a story idea and three wri ng samples and/or photographs to:

HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com to be considered for publica on. These pieces must feature Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in some way and be designed to further the understanding and/or apprecia on of this amazing na onal park.

HIKE ROCKY seeks to provide seasonal and per nent informa on for those who love Rocky as much as we do. Publica on date is on the 15th of each month, and to be considered for inclusion, submissions must be received by the end of the previous month.

We see this magazine as an online community endeavor and seek engagement from those who truly appreciate and understand Rocky.

cover photo contest Each month, we will feature a cover photo from a photographer who lives and breathes Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Photo submissions must be received by the end of the month to be considered for the following month’s cover. The photo must have been taken in Rocky, not previously published (except for social media), and be seasonal.

The winner will receive a cash prize, free access to the edi on that features his or her photo, and online promo on.

A hint about what we are looking for to grace our cover every month is included in our weekly email blast.

To sign up for no fica ons, visit:

h p://rockymountaindayhikes.com/hike-rocky-emailno fica on-page.html Barb Boyer Buck, managing editor

table of contents

click on any of the links below to be taken straight to the story

Match the wildower with its seeds, a quiz by Marlene M. Borneman

RMNP UPDATES

Fuels mitigation underway, a serious injury near Emerald Lake, and more Rocky news compiled by Barb Boyer Buck

!

HIKING in ROCKY g n i i Sk Ski tracks in Rocky by Marlene Borneman

Trails of the Month: three cross-country ski tours in RMNP

by Dave Rusk Avalanche safety in Rocky’s backcountry by Barb Boyer Buck

Skiing in the Park by Dave Rusk Essential backcountry equipment by Murray Selleck Are we there yet? Find your way in Rocky with GPSmyhike

by Barb Boyer Buck

FEATURES

Feature photo: Pika Tracks on Hallet Peak by Walt Borneman

Lessons from Colorado’s biggest and wildest res, part three

by Barb Boyer Buck Winter yshing in Rocky, by Z.F. Coen Forests hawks by Scott Rashid How do I love thee? Reader submissions of how they were inspired by Rocky Coming next month in HIKE ROCKY

Match the seeds with the ower a quiz by Marlene Borneman

seeds

Match the Rocky Mountain Na onal Park seed pods (A-F) with the wildflowers (1-6) they produce!

Answers and specifics about each wildflower are sprinkled throughout this issue of HIKE ROCKY. Inspired by the Colorado Na ve Plants Society.

A

B

C

D

E

F

2

3

4

5

6

wildower

1

SAR mission, fuels mitigation, mask mandate- it’s been a busy month at RMNP

A prescribed burn in Upper Beaver Meadows in 2018. RMNP photo

RMNP UPDATES

RMNP must follow this mandate, which is now a federal law.

Clarifica on of status of med-entry reserva on system: Last month, several regional news sources reported that the reserva on system used to control visita on last summer will not be used this year.

However, the final decision has not yet been made. The statement from Rocky is as follows: “At this me, we do not plan to implement the same type of med entry permit system as was used in 2020, but will con nue restric ons when necessary and may implement other pilot visitor management techniques if conges on and crowding warrants.”

Nes ng raptor closures: The following is effec ve as of today (Feb. 15): A new closure is being implemented in the Loch Vale area which includes Cathedral Wall. The areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off trail travel. In the Lumpy Ridge area closures include Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Bu ress, The Parish, The Book, and Twin Owls, Rock One. These closures include the named forma ons. Closures include all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber access trails to the named rock forma ons. Check the park’s website at www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm for updated informa on on raptor closures.

Compiled by Barb Boyer Buck

Federal lands mask mandate: The recently-enacted mask mandate for federal lands will be enforced in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in the following ways.

For all na onal park facili es and buildings, a mask must be worn at all mes. Similarly, on trails where physical distancing is not possible, a mask is now required. All contractors, employees, and visitors to

Serious injury above Emerald Lake: on February 9, a 21-year-old woman from Texas was seriously injured, reported RMNP, when she slid down a snow-covered

RMNP Search and Rescue team members rescued a 21-year-old woman from Texas above Emerald Lake on Feb. 9

slope approximately 70 to 100 feet into a talus slope on the south side of Emerald Lake. Rocky Mountain Na onal Park Search and Rescue Team members provided advanced medical care. Team members used a Rescue Toboggan to transport the pa ent from Emerald Lake to the Bear Lake Trailhead where she was transported by ambulance to Estes Park Health and then taken to a nearby trauma center. No further informa on is available at this me.

Fuels mi ga on: Fire managers from RMNP are preparing a prescribed burn in the South Lateral

Moraine area, if favorable weather and fuel condi ons allow. The area included for the prescribed burn is an approximate 200-acre sec on near Bear Lake Road between the Big Thompson Bridge and Hollowell Park.

Burning may be conducted for several weeks in mul ple segments to limit daily smoke produc on. The primary goal of the project is to reduce the threat of wildland fire to adjacent communi es and park infrastructure by using prescribed fire to reduce the amount of fuel available in this area.

Ski tracks in Rocky Story and photos by Marlene Borneman Winter is a special season in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and there's no be er way to experience it than on a pair of skis! Rocky offers two styles of skiing: backcountry skiing which requires technical skills and equipment for steep off-trail terrain in high eleva ons; and, the more classic tradi onal cross-country skiing on ungroomed trails.

Marlene Borneman skiing in RMNP in the 1970s.

I'm here to tell you about cross-country skiing in Rocky.

When you hear “cross-country skiing,” you may think of cross-country touring skiing on groomed trails at resorts. Cross-country touring skis are longer and narrower for these types of smooth and groomed trials.

But first-class cross-country skiing can be found in Rocky on ungroomed trails.

Here is an overview of equipment needed: skis, boots and poles. Pre y simple. I have a pair of 1970's waxable hickory wood skis without metal edges but I can say I'm happy to no longer ski on them. I also have a pair of very long waxless, Fischer skis which I'm also very happy no longer to be using.

I now ski on shorter Rossignol waxless skis that have metal edges with a side-cut shape making for superior maneuverability, especially on turns. The metal edges are more suitable for skiing Rocky when gripping the steeper terrain, making turns, and in icy condi ons.

Waxless skis have scales on the bo om along the midsec on of the ski. These scales enable you to climb moderate slopes without slipping while providing the right glide on the downhill. Waxable skis use special waxes to apply to the bo oms of the ski depending on

Your boots need to match the bindings on your skis. snow condi ons.

Your weight and height are important considera ons when purchasing skis. Your weight will determine the camber of the ski that evenly distributes your weight over the ski and helps you “float” across the snow.

Camber refers to the bow of the ski.

There are several types of boots depending on the binding you choose. I have a simple three-pin binding and compa ble boots. You will want a pair of poles adjusted to your height. A good choice for all around use are aluminum poles with large baskets and straps to help support your wrists for pushing off, while keeping a gentle grip.

Make sure they fit from the ground up to the armpits.

Fancier telescoping poles are a good alterna ve le ng you adjust the height for various terrains. I s ll have a pair of bamboo poles from the 70's to go with my hickory wooden skis.

Be sure to buy from a reputable ski/sports shop to help get the right equipment for you. If cross-country skiing is a new experience, I recommend ren ng skis and taking lessons.

Suitable clothing for cross-country skiing includes several layers, since you will be genera ng a lot of body heat from the strenuous ac vity. I recommend a warm, light wool or synthe c base layer, a fleece or light wool top, a down jacket, a waterproof/wind proof hard shell

Scales on the bo om of skis help you climb up slopes.

jacket with a hood, mi ens, wool hat, wool liner socks and outer socks. For bo oms, a base layer that's fleece lined and/or fleece with a hard outer shell made out of stretchy material to allow movement.

You will find you may be stopping to take off layers as you move; and, will be pu ng layers on when you are at a stop.

Gaiters are made of waterproof breathable material to keep snow out of your boots and give overall protec on against moisture on your lower legs, keeping you dry and warm. Be sure to take a pack with extra clothing, food, water, and the ten essen als. Other 70's relics I own are my Woolrich knickers and socks. The best part is - they s ll fit!

For a great ski adventure in Rocky, I recommend Endovalley for the beginner skier. Park at the west Alluvial Fan lot, past the Lawn Lake trailhead. Old Fall River Road to Endovalley is closed here during the winter and when it is snowpacked leaves you an easygoing place to prac ce on level and open ground.

Marlene Borneman skiing from the Glacier Gorge TH.

Another excellent road adventure for families and beginners is beyond Rainbow Curve where Trail Ridge Road is closed for the winter. The higher eleva on

Cross-country skiing in the Sprague Lake area.

usually guarantees snowpack. It is open and fairly level terrain. In the winter, the road closes before the Old Fall River Road entrance, making for an easy-going place to prac ce on snow-covered roads. Trail Ridge Road is closed for the winter months also making an excellent spot to cross-country ski especially for families and beginners.

Sprague Lake is a reliable trail for beginners and intermediate skiers. The trail south-west of the lake takes you 2.6 miles one-way to the Glacier Gorge Junc on. Or try heading to Glacier Basin Campground, or take a turn to the west for a short ski to the Storm Pass Trailhead and loop back to the Sprague Lake parking lot.

I enjoy starts at Bear Lake where several choices await the intermediate skier. Nymph and Dream Lakes are fun. From Nymph Lake you can take the trail up the drainage to Dream Lake where it is open and usually more snow than trying to ski the summer trail.

Bierstadt Lake is one of my favorite ski des na ons

with mileage of 4 miles round trip. First, you head in the opposite direc on from Nymph Lake heading to the north side of Bear Lake. Ski up the Fla op Trail to the junc on for Bierstadt Lake. It is a short climb to the top of the Moraine and from there downhill with ght turns un l the next trail junc on. Follow the signs kicking and gliding down to the lake. Once at the Lake you can ski another mile around the lake. If it is not windy, make a memorable day of it by breaking for a winter picnic on the frozen shore.

A different des na on along the Fla op Trail is Lake Helene 3.2 miles one-way. At the first junc on for Bierstadt Lake take a le signed Fla op Mountain. This trail rises moderately for the first half mile then levels out un l the next trail junc on marked as Odessa Lake.

Head north on this trail through pine forest reaching a vast meadow along the north side of Fla op mountain.

You may see backcountry skiers up high making wide turns on the slope. Cross the meadow and head back into the trees then cross a steeper hillside. You will soon come to Lake Helene.

Glacier Gorge trailhead offers the des na ons of The Loch, Mills Lake, and Black Lake - all first-rate choices for intermediate to advanced skiers.

Wild Basin area also makes for pleasant ski ou ngs.

The road is closed for a mile before the trailheads start, so it's suitable for beginner skiers to prac ce on a level road. Also try the Allenspark trailhead skiing to Finch Lake. This is an intermediate to advanced ski trail.

For more detailed informa on on the trails described visit a local mountain sports shop in Estes Park or stop in the Wilderness Office at RMNP. Also, it is a good idea to check on current weather and trail condi ons as they can rapidly change in Rocky.

Marlene has been photographing Colorado's wildflowers while on her hiking and climbing adventures since 1979.

Marlene has climbed Colorado's 54 14ers and the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky. She is the author of he is the author of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed. and The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers, published by CMC Press. She has also created the “Match the seeds to the flowers” piece for this issue of HIKE ROCKY.

On the way to Bierstadt Lake; orange markers on the trees tell you where the trail is.

Freezing snow makes beau ful pa erns on Marlene’s ski ps.

TRAILS OF THE MONTH

Scenic ski trails offer the best of winter

Skiers on the West Glacier Creek trail.

Story and photos by Dave Rusk This month we offer three trails that are good for cross country skiing.

Glacier Creek Trail Trailhead: Sprague Lake Beginning Eleva on: 8,701’ Des na on Eleva on: 9,175’ Total Eleva on Gain: 474’ Total Round Trip Miles: 2.3 This is a good trail to ski as far as you want, then turn around at any point. It is marked with orange tree tags.

The Glacier Trail begins at the Sprague Lake parking lot.

While most people will head to Sprague Lake, take the trail at trailhead sign just south of the picnic area, heading west. The trail begins with a short uphill sec on, but then levels out pre y quick. The first part of the trail travels through lodgepole pine woods and is pre y well protected from wind. Early on, the trail crosses through a trail junc on with the Storm Pass trail and you want to make sure you follow the sign for the West Glacier Creek trail. The trail becomes a bit trickier to ski the farther out you go and eventually leads to an unnamed pond with a terrific view if the Front Range Mtns. Past this point, the trail begins its climb up to the Glacier Gorge trail, o en an area with good snow accumula on.

Wild Basin Road to Copeland Falls Trailhead: Wild Basin Road winter parking lot Beginning Eleva on: 8,320’ Des na on Eleva on: 8,576’ Total Eleva on Gain: 256’ Total Roundtrip Miles: 3.6 During the winter months, the Park closes the mile and half of the Wild Basin road for snow travel to the Wild Basin trailhead. This can be busy with hikers and snowshoers, but there’s plenty of room for the cross country skier also and the terrain is gentle and mostly in the trees, though not always protected from strong winds. The trail follows the North St. Vrain Creek and there’s even a few stream side picnic tables along the way to stop at if the day is pleasant. The skier can extend their tour along the narrower Wild Basin trail an addi onal 0.3 miles in wooded terrain to Copeland Falls.

Trail Ridge Road from Many Parks Curve to Rainbow Curve Trailhead: Many Parks Curve Beginning Eleva on: 9,764’ Des na on Eleva on: 10,829’ Total Eleva on Gain: 1,065’ Total Roundtrip Miles: 8 You can drive Trail Ridge Road as far as Many Parks Curve in the winter months where it’s gated closed un l spring. The road a er this point stays covered in snow making it easy terrain for cross country skiers. The road travels around the upper por on of the Hidden Valley basin and affords many overlook places. There are short sec ons where the wind can blow hard enough to expose pavement, but there is a good por on that stays in the trees and is wind protected as well.

Detail of RMNP’s official visitor’s map.

Avalanche safety in Rocky’s backcountry

An AIARE level one course taught by the Colorado Mountain School at Hidden Valley. Photo by Barb Boyer Buck

By Barb Boyer Buck Piles of deep, fluffy snow in Rocky's backcountry are an invita on to shake off the winter doldrums and go play in the mountains. As we've described in other ar cles in this and last month's HIKE ROCKY, skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, sledding and ice ska ng are all possible in RMNP in winter and spring. There are op ons for everyone, at any ability or age.

But this beau ful, pris ne wilderness contains a hidden danger: being caught in an avalanche.

In recent weeks, there have been reports of injuries and deaths occurring as a result of avalanches in mountain states including Colorado, Washington, Utah, and Montana. In fact, this is the deadliest avalanche season in more than 100 years in the US, and we're only about half-way through the danger period. Last week in Rocky, a 21-year-old woman from Texas was seriously injured in an area above Emerald Lake - an area known for its high avalanche danger.

Large, hard slab avalanche from the Buffalo Pass area on February 9, 2021. The crown is approximately 10 feet deep with a bed surface near the ground.

Photo from h ps://www.avalanche.state.co.us/

It is very, very important for everyone to understand how to mi gate this danger in Rocky's backcountry.

Jason An n, guide and director of group experience for the Colorado Mountain School in Estes Park granted HIKE ROCKY an exclusive interview to discuss this issue.

There are many types of avalanches, but the most dangerous ones for those recrea ng on the Front Range side of the Divide are called slab avalanches, An n explained.

Exclusive video: watch more of the interview with Jason An n of the Colorado Mountain School by clicking on the photo above.

“This is when you see the snowpack break like a pane of glass,” he said. “Slab avalanches are par cularly dangerous in Colorado because they don't tend to go away (for the en re season).”

The varying effects of the dry atmosphere and temperature swings cause a “layer cake” effect in the snow, he explained. The snow is transformed into layers piled on top of each other that are of different density. When you get a layer of hard-packed, windhardened snow on top of a layer of loose snow, the poten al for a slab avalanche is very high.

To help keep safe, it's a good idea to stay off of terrain that is 30-45 degrees in slope angle, he said. “Even if you're skiing on terrain that is 30 degrees or less, the terrain above you also needs to be considered before you go underneath any of the terrain.” An n went on to explain that a 38-degree slope is the “sweet spot of danger,” but that terrain over 45 degrees usually doesn't accumulate enough snow to create avalanches.

Some of RMNP terrain that is included in the 30-45 degree includes Lamb Slide above Chasm Lake, the Dragontail mountaineering route above Emerald Lake, and areas above Bear Lake. The danger starts in late December. While snowpack becomes more predictable in the spring, avalanches can occur through May.

A skier was caught and killed in an avalanche in the backcountry south of Vail on February 4. The skier exited the Vail Ski Area through a backcountry access gate. The skier was in an area known as Marvin's when the avalanche occurred. Companions and other riders in the area found the skier. They performed resuscita on efforts but were unsuccessful. The avalanche occurred on an east-facing slope below treeline. Rescuers es mated the avalanche as 700 feet wide, and it ran 1000 ver cal feet.

Photo from Colorado Avalanche informa on website

“When we get a spring me snowpack it becomes more solidified,” An n explained. “Later in the spring we can stop worrying so much about the slab avalanche and can embark on more predictable spring ski ou ngs.”

Despite having different kinds of avalanches to worry about, there are also “avalanche problems,” he said.

An n pointed out that most of the me above tree level, the snow doesn't stay around very long, mostly because of the high winds. Weather events like big storms followed by high winds can create a storm slab or a wind slab where the new snow is displaced by these condi ons, usually into gullies which are already prone to avalanches.

Essen ally, condi ons fluctuate daily in avalancheprone areas and it's your responsibility to be aware of this. The best place to find daily avalanche informa on is h ps://www.avalanche.state.co.us/ “The forecasts are updated daily, by 7:30 a.m.,” An n said. “They will give you a ranking from 1-5; 1 being low avalanche danger all the way up to 5, extreme. But most avalanche deaths occur in the “Considerable (3)” range.”

Colorado Mountain School instructor Travis (orange jacket) trains students how to use their transceiver, probe, and shovel to rescue anyone who may become buried by an avalanche.

Photo by Barb Boyer Buck

Avalanche transceiver (beacon) training area in Hidden Valley.

Photo by Barb Boyer Buck

The fires of last summer and fall may contribute to increased avalanche danger as well.

“Snow is a complex beast,” An n said, “An avalanche needs a bed layer, a weak layer, some sort of slab or snow on top, and It needs a trigger. “Trees act as anchors in the bed layer, breaking up any slabs. Think of a piece of carboard on an easel, if you put a single thumbtack securing the cardboard to the easel, it doesn't hold as well as 100 tacks would. Trees are like tacks, and when you have fires, you are breaking up the anchors that could hold a slab in place.“

A transceiver, shovel, and probe are essen al equipment in every back-country adventurer’s pack.

Checking the avalanche forecast is just one of many things to do in prepara on for a backcountry ou ng in Rocky during avalanche season.

“You always want to have a transceiver (formerly called avalanche beacon), a probe, and a shovel,” An n said, “but the fourth piece of equipment you need is your avalanche educa on.”

The Colorado Mountain School offers several levels of AIARE cer fica on through courses that combine online learning with in-the-field instruc ons.

The American Ins tute for Avalanche Research and Educa on (AIARE) s a 501(c)3 nonprofit educa onal organiza on that gathers the latest knowledge, research and ideas in avalanche safety and create avalanche training courses that reflect the needs of today's backcountry travelers.

There's also an introductory course, “Avalanche Awareness,” that can be taken en rely

Planning before you head into Rocky’s backcountry includes several factors. This guide helps keep it all in one place.

online on Colorado Mountain School's website. In this short course, you will learn the basics of what it takes for a safe adventure in Colorado's backcountry during avalanche season.

A big part of avalanche safety is planning – the AIARE Backcountry Decision-Making Guide, or “blue book” is what An n recommends. In this book, you can create your plan based on several factors including avalanche danger, weather condi ons, and the exper se of those you are going into the backcountry with.

“Avalanche educa on level one is very much about

An avalanche was triggered by snow machines in Vail’s backcountry on Feb. 7. Colorado avalanche info photo.

understanding the problem and doing your best to avoid it,” said An n. This course includes two field days and eight hours of online class. Check out all of Colorado Mountain School's offerings here: h ps://coloradomountainschool.com/productcategory/avalanche-training/ Another piece of gear that is extremely helpful is an avalanche air bag.

“If you fill a bucket with a bunch of different-sized rocks and you shake it, eventually, all the bigger ones are gong to rise to the surface and all the li le par cles of sand will fall to the bo om. “An avalanche airbag helps you be bigger than the other pieces that break off the slab (and thus, will tend to float to the surface) and it also protects your head and neck. The point is not to get buried by an avalanche.

“I've heard stories of people who were trapped in one foot of snow, not able to get out,” An n said.

The best remedy for avalanche accidents is always preven on and prepara on. The first step is to figure out who is going with you (it is never recommended to travel in avalanche terrain alone) and what everyone's risk tolerance/experience is, An n explained. The next thing to do is to check the avalanche condi ons and forecast. “Only then, do you determine your objec ve,” he said.

All of this planning happens before you even get on the mountain. Once embarked, the group should never stray from the plan, An n said.

This sign allows backcountry travelers to check whether their transceiver is working properly. When held up, there will be a green circle to indicate it is. Photo by Barb Boyer Buck

“We will serve more than 2,000 avalanche educa on students this year, we operate all over Colorado but our home is RMNP,” The Colorado Mountain School operates under a memorandum of understanding within RMNP; guides are responsible for being stewards of the land, render aid to visitors to the Park as wilderness first responders, carry radios to keep in communica on with ranger staff, and are leave-no-trace trainers, among other du es.

The school can operate anywhere in the Park, but the places that tend to be be er learning environments for beginner students are those with easy access, lowerapproach zones with at least visual access to avalanche terrain. Most of their training happens at Bear Lake and Hidden Valley.

Jason An n has been in Colorado for about a decade and has been with Colorado Mountain School for a year. He has taken all the AIARE training, including the Pro 1 class and is planning to take the Pro 2 class later this year.

Barb Boyer Buck first moved to Estes Park in the mid 1990s, to become the special sec ons and magazine editor for the Estes Park Trail-Gaze e.

She has been a professional writer and researcher for the past 25 years and is the managing editor of HIKE ROCKY Magazine.

Skiing in the Park

Mills Lake

Story and photos by Dave Rusk There was a pervasive tranquility, so s ll and silent. All I could hear was the so snowfall aligh ng on the frozen lake and the surrounding trees. I stood there taking it in, while the experience held me there.

I wasn't frozen in place. The temperature was not bi er that day. I just didn't want to move. I imagined I wasn't there – that I was, instead, one of the trees or the immovable peaks that surrounded me. I pictured myself a permanent part of this serene, quiet landscape. Snow landed so ly on the needles and branches do ng the dark evergreens with pa erns. The trees were standing so s ll, the snow stayed balanced on every needle.

There was not even a whisper of air movement.

A layer of thin cloud added to the quiet. It was so thin you couldn't tell that you were in the cloud, except to see the very faint outline of Halle Peak ju ng its pinnacle several miles away. My eyes tried to absorb what was before me.

Possibly somewhere under the cover of the trees, not sensing the s llness, there may have been a bunny slowly hopping off somewhere. But I would guess even this creature may be si ng hunched somewhere in reverence of the moment, deciding to wait a li le longer before he goes looking for his sleep spot for the night.

Finally, I let go of the s llness. I wasn't a tree. I turned back to the direc on my skis were poin ng and con nued slicing the fresh powder with the ps, watching snow curl around their front edges. I would like to say that I moved silently through the snow, but my boots squeaked and creaked in the bindings. I glided like the happy feet of Poppin' John across the open lake, covered with snow, un l I reached the shore.

I bought my first pair of snowshoes a couple of years ago and that has made ge ng around Rocky much easier than on skis, but on this day, I decided to bring out my Chouinard Tua Expressos again. They must be about 30 years old, top-of-the-line backcountry skis back then, with metal edges, blue tops and brilliant

fluorescent orange bo oms intended to use for emergency indicators, if needed.

I've always liked them, even though their 190 cm length probably kept me from being a very strong telemark skier, they are just too much ski for my short legs to throw around. But I started skiing in the early 80s, when ski bums sported bumper s ckers that declared,” Short Skis Suck!”

A few years ago, my daughter invited me to come to the ski hill where she works. She said, “don't bother to bring that ski gear you have.” The leather Asolo Extreme boots that clip into the three pin bindings would have been dead giveaways for how out of date my gear is. When I stepped up to the bench to get my rental skis, the ski technician, who was probably about my age, asked what length of ski I wanted. I thought I'd be er jump down several sizes, so I said, “175!” He looked at me and said, “Dude, we don't do it that way anymore.” He pulled out a pair of 160s. That worked alright.

My best ski tour was on a bright sunny March day to Lake Helene. Notchtop Mountain looked grand! I've also skied up in Wild Basin to Ouzel Falls and as far as Rainbow Curve on Trail Ridge Road. If we get the right condi ons this year, I hope to ski to Forest Canyon overlook to see all those glorious mountains with winter snow.

One of my first ski ou ngs in the Park was to Mills Lake 10 years ago at the end of January. A friend was visi ng from the upper peninsula of Michigan where he skied with some regularity. I wasn't quite sure where to take him, but I wanted to try and give our guest a taste of the Rockies. Mills Lake seemed like a fairly tame trek.

The skiing in went ok, although there were sec ons of uphill on the narrow trail where if you weren't ge ng good trac on it would be difficult to wishbone or sidestep your way up.

A er winding our way following snowshoe tracks through the trees up the Glacier Creek drainage and around the Glacier Knobs, we came to a more open stretch of the trail where the high peaks come into view. This part of the trail is exposed to sun and wind; there was just a very narrow strip of icy snow le by trekkers that the wind could not li off and the sun had to work to melt off.

The trail was too bare for skis, so we took them off and walked this stretch. In fact, we walked the rest of the way up to the lake since the trail was snow packed and the terrain was difficult to ascend on skis. Once at the lake, we found a spot on a bare rock to sit and snack while we watched people taking pictures of the outstanding view of the Longs/Pagoda ridgeline as backdrop.

But on this pris ne day at Bear Lake, I was back on my 190 Expressos and Asolo leather boots, and they felt pre y comfortable to me. Earlier in the day, my hiking partner and I had stopped at Hidden Valley snow play area and tooled around. I don't need much of a downhill slope to have a good me, zipping around. I s ll wax my skis, using blue wax through the kicker with a li le purple right under the foot. Works every me.

This provides the right amount of s ck to go up, but lets the skis glide down easily. I have skied on many different trails in the Park, nothing extreme. Bierstadt Lake from Bear Lake is a good one. Also nice is the trail between Sprague Lake and the Glacier Gorge trail going both up and down, this is a very enjoyable ski tour.

The day had high thin clouds, not a Colorado bluebird sky. We were visited by a chickadee who hoped we would pay him a few crumbs for posing for our cameras. I snapped his picture, but he had to find someone else to collect his fee. When we took our last gulps of water and packed up for the return, I decided it would be absolutely ridiculous for us to try and ski back down the narrow trail. It would be like barreling down a bobsled run, barely in control and using hapless snowshoers as speed bumps.

So I navigated us off trail, which always has its own hazards. First, we slid down Glacier Falls, now filled in with wind-packed snow. Then a er crossing Glacier

Creek, we went back into the trees, staying to the le of the trail. The snow was par cularly good here. Being protected from wind and sun, the snow was so and deep, allowing for more control. I actually made some nicely controlled turns causing me to let out a few whoops.

But there's also the concern of your skis dropping below a hidden downed tree. You could end up ge ng hung up or injured very suddenly. Injuries in these situa ons can change everything, mul plying the difficul es by many mes in the winter cold. Having found a good line for some turns, I had go en ahead of Tom, though I could hear him, coming up from behind.

I needed to make sure everything was going well for him and I waited while he caught up. We weren't carrying avalanche beacons, so if we split up and an accident did happen, it could take some me to locate each other. I made sure we stayed close enough for visual contact.

Eventually we did cross back onto the trail, somewhere below Alberta Falls where the trail is wider and gentler and it's easy to maintain a nice glide back to the trailhead. I have blurry pictures of us back at home with big smiles and Fat Tire beer in hand. It was a successful Rocky Mountain ou ng.

I have been to Mills Lake a number of mes in the winter since then, but this was the only me I went there on skis. Snowshoes or shoe spikes are really the best way to get to Mills Lake in the winter me, unless you're looking to add adventure to your venture.

Dave Rusk has been sauntering and taking photographs through Rocky Mountain Na onal Park for decades.

He is the author publisher of Rocky Mountain Day Hikes, a book of 24 hikes in Rocky, and the website of the same name. He is the publisher of HIKE ROCKY Magazine and an important content contributor to all of these endeavors.

This pocket-sized guide to 24 hikes in Rocky is the perfect stockingstuffer!

Available around Estes Park or here.

Backcountry Essentials

By Murray Selleck In this era of COVID19, there con nues to be a huge surge of folks heading into the backcountry for the first me.

At the mountain shop where I work, we're helping people navigate their decisions with recommenda ons for pack sizes, what to take, and how to prepare for a simple backcountry ski tour, day hike, and/or mul -day backpacking trips.

Over the decades I have acquired knowledge through experience and mentors that I can share to make things easier for folks heading out for the first me. It may also help those who know be er but con nually don't do be er.

luck. Sadly, it is not for sale. Rather than relying on luck or worse, dumb luck, be er planning up front will make every trip memorable in good ways.

2. Naviga on I do not have an innate sense of direc on.

My reluctance to stop and ask for direc ons while driving has nothing to do with my inability to navigate while bushwhacking through dense fog, skiing in a whiteout, or tripping along a moonless trail at night without a map, compass, or headlamp.

3. Accountability Tell someone where you'll be skiing, snowshoeing, or hiking and when you plan to be home.

S ck to the plan. Changing plans without le ng someone know is relying solely on item 1.

Here are two short lists. One is what I have gleaned through years of hiking and skiing in the backcountry.

The second list is the 10 basic essen als that should be considered whether you are on a 3-hour tour (think Gilligan's Island) or a big wilderness trip-of-a-life me.

4, Extra clothes I listen to weather reports and pack my pack despite what the forecast has predicted. Carrying clothing and gear that doesn't get used is part of the deal. Becoming soaked in a sudden summer monsoon or shivering through a late winter snow squall is not the me to be thinking of rain gear or warm clothes le at home.

First, lessons for all of us: 1. Luck I have searched for decades for a place to buy luck. Sadly, it is not for sale. Rather than relying on luck or worse, dumb luck, be er planning up front will make every trip memorable in good ways.

5. Do not become separated from your group. “You go ahead” or “I'll meet you at the top” is asking for complica ons. In a group, always be able to see the person in front of you or behind you. Travel only as fast as the weakest member in your group.

2. Naviga on I do not have an innate sense of direc on.

My reluctance to stop and ask for direc ons while

6 When in doubt, turn back If your goal for the day becomes unlikely there is no shame in turning around.

Weather, group dynamics, preparedness, or even that small voice in the back of your head telling you enough is enough are all good reasons for a successful second a empt another me.

The Ten Essen als: 1. Shelter This can be as simple as an emergency blanket or as cozy as a tent.

2. Fire Waterproof matches and nder, or a ny emergency stove can do the trick. If you can stay warm, melt snow for water, or make a cup of hot tea in an emergency your comfort level and your peace of mind will rise exponen ally.

3. Extra Clothing See item 4 from the prior list.

4. Hydra on Bringing enough water or having a device to filter or purify water along the way is pre y darn important. Dehydra on can set in quickly with bad decisions following close behind.

5. Food Bring plenty of snacks or meals for the day and don't forget about food for the drive home!

6. Naviga on equipment My preference are old school compass and map.* GPS units can power down or accidently break. Either way it is best to know where

you are going before rather than discovering a erwards where you got lost.

7. Mul -tool or knife Making kindling for a ny fire,

slicing cheese for crackers, or cra y emergency gear repairs. A knife or mul tool is indispensable. (And always slice away from yourself - see item 9 below).

8. Light A headlamp or flashlight, matches, candles, or ny lanterns all can work. With anything ba ery powered or rechargeable make sure you are powered up. Replace old ba eries and/or be fully charged before you go.

9. First Aid Kit A cut or sprain, a trip, slip, or fall can be minor or major. Having the ability to administer 1st aid is both comfor ng and calming.

10. Sun Protec on Sunscreen, lip balm, sunglasses, big broad brimmed hat, or even an umbrella will work to prevent sunburn and sore eyes.

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and all our public lands are too magnificent not to explore. Being prepared, choosing wisely, knowing your comfort level, ignoring the loud insistent voices that tell you not to listen to your own quiet common sense will have you returning trip a er wonderful trip. *Please see HIKE ROCKY'S story on a new naviga on tool that works on your cell phone, whether or not you have cell coverage!

Murray Selleck moved to Colorado in 1978. In the early 80’s he split his me working winter’s in a ski shop in Steamboat Springs and his summers guiding on the Arkansas River. His career in the specialty outdoor industry has con nued for over 30 years. Needless to say, he has witnessed decades of change in outdoor equipment and clothing. Steamboat Springs con nues to be home.

Are we there yet?

Hiking in RMNP in 1987. From le , my sister, my dad, and me.

Finding your way in Rocky with GPS technology

By Barb Boyer Buck Ever since I was a kid, hiking with my family in the mountains of Northern California and later in Colorado's high country, I remember the refrain: “Hey, Pop! Are we there yet?”

My brother, sister, and I echoed this sen ment on all long hikes, even if we were enjoying ourselves. It became a habit.

My dad would bend down, circle one arm around my shoulder and point to where the trail rounded a bend, traveling out of sight. "Just around that ridge," he would say.

Most of the me, there was another ridge beyond that one… and another ... and another. When we were red this was frustra ng, but these days I understand why my dad did that. We had to keep going forward to reach our goal and he was trying to keep our spirits up.

But in reality, knowing where you are on a hike at all mes is pre y important, especially in the winter and when the trail route may be unclear.

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park has more than 300 miles of trails and many will undergo changes as the seasons change. Natural forces such as flooding and wildfire may cause a trail to become unrecognizable for a me.

When the trails are covered with snow - especially if you're the first one to blaze tracks - it's extremely difficult to stay on the trail. Ge ng lost is a very real threat in the wilderness.

Add to that the spo y and/or non-existent phone coverage in RMNP and the danger increases.

Rocky Mountain Day Hikes has developed a free app for smart phones (either Apple or Android) called GPSmyhike to help with these concerns.

Step one: download the app by following instruc ons on the GPSmyhike webpage.

Step two: select an RMNP hike on the app from several hiking categories.

Step three: download the trail map before you enter Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and lose recep on.

Step four: refer to the downloaded map which uses GPS to tell you exactly where you are while hiking on the trail you've selected.

The downloaded topographic trail map indicates the trail with a red line and a moving blue dot (which we've named ED) tells you exactly where you are at any point along your hike.

"Even if there are tracks in the snow, it doesn't mean that it's the actual trail," Dave Rusk, the developer of GPSmyhike said.

Once you've downloaded the map, ED will appear anywhere you are! Even if you are off the trail, even if you have downloaded a map for a different hike altogether.

Zoom out on any trail map you've downloaded and ED will tell you exactly where you are.

ED always answers the ques on "are we there yet?"

The screen shot on the right shows what it looks like to use GPSmyhike in Rocky. The blue dot tracks your loca on along the trail. Note that there was no cell service during this hike.

Hiking in Northern California in 1976. From le is me, my dad, my sister in the backpack, my mother, and my grandmother.

FEATURE PHOTO Pika tracks on Hallet Peak by Walt Borneman

Lessons learned from Colorado’s biggest, wildest res

The Cameron Peak fire as it loomed over Estes Park on October 14. Photo courtesy of GHAVFD

Part 3: interviews and insights from area fire chiefs

By Barb Boyer Buck “Hope is not a strategy,” said David Wolf, fire chief for Estes Valley Fire Protec on District, about the realiza on the Cameron Peak Fire, which started north of the Estes Valley on August 13, 2000, could burn straight toward his jurisdic on. “There was nothing but fuel” between the fire and Glen Haven a er it jumped Highway 14, so Wolf started preparing for if it came this way.

forest service to pinpoint the fire's exact loca on, which turned out to be 15 miles southwest of Red Feather Lakes, less than 80 miles north of the communi es around Glen Haven, the Estes Valley, and the northern border of RMNP. At first, the fire wasn't moving toward the Park, Lewelling said, so he and his team concentrated on preparing for if it did. “That first week, we were brought into the Forest Service planning efforts,” he said. He and the incident commander for the sec on of fire that was closest to RMNP flew over the fire to assess.

“The day (the Cameron Peak fire) started, we were coming home from Grand Lake, driving through the Kawuneeche Valley and I saw a plume on the horizon,” recalled Kevin Zagorda, chief of the Glen Haven Area Volunteer Fire Department. “I turned to my wife and said, that's fire.”

Zagorda thought it may be coming from somewhere in the Never Summer Range, “but by the me we got up Trail Ridge Road and got to Medicine Bow curve, you could clearly see where it was coming from, and that it was big.”

“I wasn't too concerned un l I flew over Chapin Pass, and realized if the fire went up and over, that's where our Willow Park cabin is (along Old Fall River Road), and that's the Fall River drainage – which goes right into Estes Park.”

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park's fire management officer, Mike Lewelling, started a response in conjunc on with the Na onal Forest Service right away. “At first, we thought it was in the Park,” he remembered. The northwest sec on of RMNP is some of the most remote wilderness in RMNP's boundaries. Lewelling started working with the

Lewelling said they iden fied a few places along Fall River where they could “maybe make a stand,” but it didn't look like any line they could establish would hold.

So, efforts shi ed to developing evacua on plans. Even though it hadn't yet reached the Park's boundaries, on August 18 some sec ons of northwest RMNP were

“We had become a Fire Wise community in July,” GHAVFD Chief Zagorda said; as soon as the fire started, the communi es in the Glen Haven area began to prepare.

“A lot of the property owners had done significant mi ga on work before the fire even began, which was a big plus for us,” he said. “We also had updated our Community Wildfire Protec on Plan earlier that year.”

A volunteer organiza on, Team Rubicon, contacted Zagorda about doing mi ga on work in the Glen Haven area earlier in 2020. Team Rubicon is a veteran's organiza on that provides humanitarian and recovery aid to communi es all over the country.

“We took a look at our vulnerabili es and knew we were vulnerable in any of the drainages (ie, Miller Fort, North Fork, West Creek), so we knew we wanted to do some thinning of trees and other mi ga on work toward the edge of developed areas.”

Slurry drop on the Cameron Peak fire as seen from Elk Ridge Drive near Glen Haven on Oct. 15. Photo courtesy of GHAVFD

closed.

A week later, the Cameron Peak fire made its “second push,” Lewelling said, “and it came into the Park pre y fast.” Due to the inaccessibility of that sec on of the Park, it was very difficult to pinpoint the exact loca on, but it was clear the fire was within RMNP's borders.

But then, a very early snowstorm hit on September 8-9, one of the earliest snows with accumula on recorded since the late 1800s.

An area in the North Fork drainage was completed and an area around the Retreat was par ally completed, Zagorda said. “And then, a couple of weeks before the fire, Larimer County contacted me. Their fuels crew wanted to come up and do some work in Glen Haven.”

They were going to finish the area around the Retreat in September. But by then, everyone was engaged in ac vely figh ng this fire, which ended up burning 208,913 acres in Larimer and Jackson coun es, making it the largest wildfire in Colorado's history.

On October 14, the Cameron Peak fire made a “pre y big run on a red-flag day, I think it was a 12-mile run, that fire came down Panic Pass and down the Miller Fork drainage and got into the Retreat, just outside the developed areas.”

This stalled the fire's progression. Over the next few months, the Cameron Peak Fire “didn't want to move south into upper Chapin Creek, the area we were worried about” Lewelling said. They used helicopters to sprinkle the leading edge with retardant, but that doesn't really do much unless ground crews could go in to follow it up, he explained. All they could do was hope the fire didn't move south.

More dry and windy weather followed the earlySeptember snowfall and crews con nued to work the Cameron Peak fire over the next six weeks as it burned toward communi es northheast of the Park, including Glen Haven.

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Exclusive video: area fire chiefs reflect on their experiences during the East Troublesome and Cameron Peak fires.

But where Team Rubicon did fuel reduc on, “it took a lot of the punch out of the fire,” Zagorda said. As a result, and with a li le help from the weather which had turned cold again, his team was able to ba le the fire directly in those areas, keeping it away from homes.

This effort was bolstered a lot by the mi ga on work the property owners had done, earlier that year.

“I sat up there at the lookout point and watched the fire coming down the hill. It was very smoky, you couldn't see very much, but I was convinced a lot of those homes were going to be lost. As the smoke began to clear, you could see the fire come down and burn around the houses, because of the mi ga on work the property owners had done,” Zagorda reported.

Another thing that helped prepare for this fire was a community workshop on how to develop an evacua on plan, held by the department in August.

GHAVFD and EVFPD helped Larimer County with evacua ons and then got quickly to work on “rapid structure protec on,” Zagorda explained. In about five minutes at each property, the crew worked to remove all combus bles away from the house did some quick chainsaw work on vegeta on, and sprayed a li le firefigh ng foam. “And then we had to back out and wait for the weather to cooperate before we could fight the fire directly.”

The community of Glen Haven lost one home and three second homes. Several building and outbuildings were lost as well. No human or animal lives were lost in this area. The fire came within one-third of mile from Zagorda's house; he and his wife were evacuated for three weeks during which they moved seven mes.

Homeowners in the Glen Haven area performed mi ga on work around their homes which spared many structures when the Cameron Peak fire blazed through the area, said Chief Zagorda. Photo courtesy of GHAVFD

Interagency coopera on and joint efforts are extremely important when figh ng wildland fire, and with training efforts. Chief Wolf from the Estes Valley district, led a strike-force commander training session earlier that year which Zagorda credited as being very valuable during this fire.

“Estes Valley and Glen Haven have a very good working rela onship, we are mutual aid partners and we train together,” he said. Type I incident command teams arrive at big, dangerous fires – they are made up from crews from all over the country and serve about 2-3 weeks before another team is deployed. When they arrived at Glen Haven, they helped with se ng up sprinkler systems for structure protec on, bringing that equipment from the Red Feather Lakes area.

Lewelling's crew began efforts in the Glen Haven area at

An emergency opera ons staging area was formed in the parking lot at Na onal Park Village on Oct. 21.

The East Troublesome fire as it burned through the Kawuneeche Valley.

Photo courtesy of the GFPD1

about this me, too – the Na onal Park was now on fire near its northeastern border, burning around Signal Mountain before back-burning about 300 acres into RMNP land and threatening the North Fork ranger cabin.

“Make friends before you need them.” Lewelling got this piece of advice at the beginning of his career and with firefigh ng, it's absolutely essen al. Wildfire doesn't respect jurisdic on lines and interagency coopera on and communica on is key to successful fire management.

The same day the Cameron Peak fire made its epic run toward the communi es surrounding Glen Haven, the East Troublesome fire began on the west side of the Con nental Divide.

Along with serving as the assistant chief of the Grand County Fire Protec on District 1, Schelly Olson is a public informa on officer for for fire incident teams, going out on fires all over the country. Many mes, she is not necessarily working local fires; in fact, that summer she had been on a couple of fires in Arizona and then the Williams Fork Fire, 10 miles southwest of Fraser.

“I had been on the Williams Fork fire for almost 50 days,” Olson said. She and a friend from Eagle County, also a PIO, needed some rest so they bought plane

ckets to take a short vaca on in Florida.

The forest service called on October 14 to see if Olson could be PIO for the East Troublesome fire, but she declined because she had already booked the ckets. “I felt tremendous guilt because here was a fire in my county, and I'm leaving.

“I did not know what (the East Troublesome fire) was going to do,” she said. She was s ll in Florida when the fire blew up the following Wednesday.

It had been a tough fire season for those in Grand County, reported the Grand Fire Protec ons District 1 chief, Brad White, with mul ple fires in the region.

“Most of us lived under smoke clouds the en re summer,” White reported. Centrally located near Granby, his crew is o en called out for interagency work as well.

But when the East Troublesome fire started, White and seven other members of his crew were on quaran ne for a known exposure to someone with an ac ve COVID infec on. The chief was working from home when he got a call from the Grand County sheriff, wan ng to put part of White's district under a pre-evacua on order– the fire had burned 3,800 acres that first day.

“Well, I said that's fine but I want to get a look at this fire myself.” A er he assessed what the fire was doing,

But around 7 p.m. on the evening of the 21st, White realized something different was happening. “It got really dark up there,” he said, “the smoke column se led down and the winds really picked up.”

From about 7-8:30 pm MAMA was involved in evacua ons throughout the district and then started to try to protect structures. Similar to what Chief Zagorda and his crews were doing in Glen Haven, these crew members tried to save homes by removing combus bles from around the homes that were threatened.

Chief Brad White of Grand Fire Protec on District 1 was in quaran ne when the East Troublesome fire broke out.

he contacted the sheriff and advised evacua on zones needed to be established all the way to Highway 34.

There are a total of 5 fire protec on districts that serve Grand County which is 1,870 square miles in area. They all perform mutual aid within the county, and with federal land management agencies - the forest service and na onal park service. The incident command team that had been dispatched to the Williams Fork fire stepped up as well.

“October is a bad me of year to try to get federal resources so the (incident command) team was already thin. But not only did they agree to take on this new fire, they agreed to stay an addi onal week,” White said.

Over the next couple of days, the fire grew from near Kremmling to the Hot Sulphur Springs area. On October 19, the wind started picking up again.

“At one point, I figured out the fire had traveled 17 miles in 90 minutes,” White said. “That's not the kind of fire you put fire fighters in front of.”

In Grand County, “we lost 366 homes and I'll bet we lost 30 of them in that first big blow-up.”

Meanwhile, back in Florida, Olson's phone was blowing up with calls from people asking where she was, how they should evacuate, etc. She was also receiving evacua on no fica ons for her home. “My husband was home alone and he wasn't signed up for emergency no fica ons so I relayed them to him,” she said. Because the fire blew up so quickly, he had about 10 minutes between the pre-evac no ce and mandatory evacua on orders.

“He was not able to pack up anything, only get himself, some clothes and our dog Rambo out,” she recalled. “I found out about the house at 2 o-clock in the morning, “We had a very large heavy- mber solid log home – the logs were 24 inches in diameter. Very hard to burn.”

But nevertheless, the house burned to the ground, a complete loss.

“It was a pre y ac ve few days, with air tankers dropping slurry,” White remembered. On the morning of the 21st, crews predicted the fire might cross Highway 125, where a few homes and ranches were located, so all those people were evacuated. “We felt pre y good because the fire was moving rapidly, but it was moving northeast toward Gravel Mountain,” away from more populated areas in an area where the fire could be boxed in.

The mountain area mutual aid group (MAMA), which had been formed several years prior with 10 other Colorado coun es, had been contact to help expedite resources and help with the evacua on of the Trail Creek subdivision, located off County Road 4 west of Lake Granby.

Assistant chief for the GFP District 1 Schelly Olson, center, and her family - including rescue dog Rambo at their former home outside of Grand Lake.

Olson's husband, Jeff, reported he could see the orange glow, feel the heat and extreme wind, and that it sounded like a freight train coming toward him, just prior to his evacua on.

“Our house sat on the top of a hill and right behind us was a golf course. In front of us was the road, and on the other side of the road was marshy swamp land and then the Winding River Ranch. The ranch was a huge open space, no trees, only grass.”

A few of the homeowners including the Olsons, had removed trees closest to their structures for a buffer, “but obviously, none of us had enough of a buffer.” The surrounding terrain, which logically should have provided fire breaks, didn't help either. Olson explained why: “The wind blew giant embers ahead of the fire.

Everything was pre-heated because of that hot wind.

Fuel can start combus ng, even without that directflame impingement. The embers just showered down and landed on everything,” Olson said. In other cases, windows were blown out and embers got inside homes, burning them from the inside out.

The Olson family home before the East Troublesome fire came through. Both photos courtesy of Schelly Olson.

“The engine block that was in the car in our garage just melted onto the concrete floor, crea ng what looked like a sculpture,” she said.

All of her jewelry was pulverized by the extreme heat.

Meanwhile, on the east side of the Divide, Lewelling was discussing evacua on plans for Park personnel with the district ranger in the Kawuneeche Valley. “When she told me the fire was at Sloopy's – the burger joint just south of the Park - it really hit home.” Park personnel sta oned on the west side of Rocky evacuated over Trail Ridge Road and reached the emergency command center at midnight– where Lewelling, Wolf, and many other officials were coordina ng efforts.

“A big part of this story is what you see in people's eyes,” Lewelling said. “We're all professionals with many years of experience, but you could see it in people's eyes – this was different. This was a different event.”

Lewelling thought that was all that was going to happen for the night. “Certainly, it wasn't going to cross the Con nental Divide,” he thought.

The Olson family home a er being destroyed by the East Troublesome fire.

But first thing in the morning of the 22nd, he got a call from the Na onal Weather Service, telling him weather satellites detected a heat signature on the east side of the Divide.

“From how much the wind could blow the smoke column, that signal could just be embers in the smoke column. It doesn't mean there is fire on the ground,” Chief Wolf said when he first heard about the weather satellite's detec on.

Mid-morning, it became clear the fire had indeed jumped the Divide and was working its way to the Fern Lake burn scar. Around noon that day, the emergency management team started working on an evacua on plan for the Highway 66 corridor.

It was s ll not clear how far the down the fire had go en down into the east side of the Park because of the heavy smoke that was billowing out in front of it. By the me it was confirmed, the fire had reached Mount Wuh and had already blown past one of the evacua on triggers, Wolf said.

David Wolf, chief of the Estes Valley Fire Protec on District.

The triggers were set by a joint emergency management team in 2017, which predicted what would happen if a fire which started in Rocky got into one of the drainages leading into the community of Estes Park. These models predicted such a fire under worst-case scenarios would burn through the town in four hours. The current situa on was worse than any scenario imagined. It was me to act quickly.

By 2 p.m., for the first me in history, the en re Estes Valley was under a voluntary evacua on order; by Saturday, October 24, the order was upgraded to mandatory for everyone in the valley.

Chief Kevin Zagorda of the Glen Haven Area Volunteer Fire Department.

“Since law enforcement was handling the evacua ons, we were able to focus on other priori es, such as protec ng our communica ons, the hospital, and long-term care facili es, knowing that they would need more me for evacua ons,” Wolf explained. Another concern was the water supply.

“We knew that the number of resources we had were not going to be enough for the fire fight we were expec ng,” Wolf said. Emergency management called out for more resources and were rewarded with a lot of assistance from communi es along the Front Range. Saturday night, the local crews could finally have a night off. But at 2 in the morning Sunday, they got another call – a structure

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park’s fire management officer, Mike Lewelling.

fire, unrelated to the wildfires, burned down a home.

Sunday morning, everyone was happy to wake up to snow, Wolf said. But now that electricity and gas had been turned off to all the valley's structures, there was a danger of freezing pipes. So, crews helped to winterize homes, and get pilot lights re-lit.

The planning that occurred in 2017, organized by Lewelling and Wolf and with the input of many other emergency management personnel was extremely useful during this event, Wolf said.

“We thought we would be figh ng fire on Elkhorn Avenue by the end of the day,” Wolf said. Luckily, that wasn't the case.

“Overall, when we look at what happened with the Cameron Peak and East Troublesome fires, I would say that we were very successful. We were also very lucky,” Wolf said.

Efficiency in interagency coordina on and coopera on, planning for worst-case scenarios, and effec ve mobiliza on of resources was a lesson already learned by Zagorda, Wolf, and Lewelling, thankfully. But one thing that they hadn't thought of is where they would get food- they had just evacuated everyone, including the grocery stores and restaurants.

For Chief Zagorda, the fuels mi ga on work conducted by volunteers and homeowners saved quite a few homes.

Asst. Chief Olson said that one of the lessons learned was to install reflec ve house numbering, so addresses can be found quickly in an emergency. “Grand County is ground zero for the pine beetle infesta on,” which killed 95% of the lodgepole forests, she said. “Fuels mi ga on is a big part of this.”

Prescribed fires and fuel reduc on in Rocky was instrumental in keeping the fire west of the Estes Valley, several of the fire management professionals noted.

All of the fire agencies who were approached for this ar cle depend heavily on volunteers, there are very few career firefighters. In areas such as Glen Haven, a non-incorporated community in Larimer County, “every pair of hands and feet were working to fight the fire,” Zagorda said.

Both of these fires ended up burning approximately 400,000 acres in northern Colorado; the East Troublesome came in just behind the Cameron Peak fire to be the second largest fire in Colorado's history. Within Rocky's boundaries, 30,000 acres were burned – more than in any other in its 106-year history.

Both of these fires, along with most of Colorado's wildfires in 2020, were human caused; the exact causes are under inves ga on.

Fire-figh ng near Grand Lake on Oct. 22. Photo courtesy of GHAVFD

Since wildfire isn't going away, it's clear the biggest lessons learned from these fires is that the general public needs to become more educated on their responsibilities while recreating in the wilderness.

Each of these agencies provide community resources on their websites. Visit the Glen Haven Area Volunteer Fire Department at www.ghavfd.org Schelly Olson has created a nonprofit organization called the Grand County Wildfire Council: bewildfireready.org/ Grand Fire Protection District 1 can be found at grandfire.org/ The Estes Valley FPD's website is: www.estesvalleyfire.org/ Rocky Mountain National Park's fire management office can be found here: www.nps.gov/romo/learn/management/firemanage ment.htm

Winter y-shing Rocky Denali Lawson, guide for Scot’s Spor ng Goods, casts into the Thompson River.

Story by ZF Coen, photos by Barb Boyer Buck While most fly fisherman take the winter off to e flies or rest from the long fly-fishing season, there are those intrepid fishermen, braving the cold while honing their fishing skill. Though there are challenges to winter fishing in Rocky, they will seek a sec on of river that has open pockets of water. These open pockets of water are sca ered throughout the area of Rocky.

Most mornings for a day of fishing are chilly. Maybe to remind oneself of the weather that is threatening to cross the divide, causing a sudden snow squall. The wind begins to blow with a ferocity that could knock most down. The temperature drops rapidly and forces most fisherman out of the water. However, in the moments between a few gusts of wind there is opportunity to drop a fly exactly right in front of a trout that has shown itself with its slightest movement.

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park has many rivers and streams that are only accessible by hiking, crea ng a further barrier to fishing. One can use this me to reminisce in the splendor of the winter here. There is a crunching sound to the lightly-crusted snow that keeps creatures aware of your presence. While hiking up to the sandy and gravel-strewn river's edge there is a smell of fresh water, juniper, and pine. Chirping from juncos and finches fills the area with a song of nature mixed with the sound of wind pushing through the forest canopy. Snowmelt water rushing through open

areas of ice is extraordinarily clear, lending a view to the river bo om.

Denali Lawson is a guide and shop keep at Scot's Spor ng Goods on Moraine Avenue west of Estes Park.

The Thompson River offers a thorough selec on of open river water in and around Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Average flows in the river keep a good selec on of water open to fishing. According to Denali, an early a ernoon dry midge pa ern works well on nicer days, and if that does not work trying a chironomid nymph (a small representa on of midge larvae) is a good selec on through the winter months.

Z.F. Coen deciding which flies to use a er a number of unsuccessful a empts at a rainbow trout that has been eluding him..

With grace and pa ence, he drops a line in the perfect spot, between ice and a few rocks. This spot on the river has a nice slow dri to it that allows his fly to bounce right in front of a willing rainbow trout wai ng for food. The trout strikes with swi ness and Denali is able to hook it with the size 22 midge. He carefully and gently brings the trout to the shore. He uses his net to lightly li the trout out of the water and working quickly, returns the fish to water.

In conversa on with other guides and fisherman and his own experience, Denali recommends wai ng for warmer days to find more open pockets on the water.

All trout around Rocky have a considerable change in feeding habits in the colder months of winter, it is also a me of great stress for “stream salmonids”. According

Z.F. Coen dri ing a hand- ed czech nymph in front of a Rainbow Trout with an average size for Rocky.

to their research ar cle in Environmental Biology of Fishes, James Johnson, Marc Chalupnicki, et. al., wrote that “winter is generally considered a cri cal and stressful period for stream salmonids, moreover, during winter, the youngest age classes of fishes are thought to be the most at risk.” They also argue that “during winter, metabolic ac vity of stream salmonids decreases in response to changes in photoperiod and water temperature.” In contrast, the feeding ac vity of most trout in the summer months increases to nearly 90% of sunlight hours.

Considering the feeding habit change of trout during the winter, one would expect much more effort required between landing fish. Keeping in mind this is also the most stressful me of the year for these fish, handling them cau ously and gently will aid in giving them the best opportunity to survive the rest of this some mes-ruthless season.

A few fishermen speak of ice fishing on Copeland Lake, just outside of RMNP. While others choose to drop li le nymphs on Sprague Lake in open holes or bring a hand auger to drill a hole large enough to ice fish.

An assortment of flies are useful to have in most situa ons.

The flies pictured here are hand ed by the author. Terrestrials are a good op on for the spring through fall. Czech nymphs are used to represent various river larvae and are heavy enough to drop in front of a fish in the winter months with minimal areas to fish.

A gentle breeze will kiss the surface of the lake and remind you of winter in Rocky, as the willow groves ra le lightly in the distance. A feeling of excitement and an cipa on overtakes you as you make the short hike to the lake from a large parking lot on the south side of Bear Lake Road at Glacier Basin. Named a er Abner Sprague, an Estes Park historian and guide, this is an extremely popular, low water lake.

Widely known for its produc ve brook trout fishing, Sprague Lake offers spectacular views of the con nental divide while spending the day fishing here. The Sprague Lake Nature Trail offers a safe and easy to follow level path around the lake.

There are extraordinary views of much of the con nental divide and Rocky Mountains as you spend a day fishing in the area whether you are on the Thompson river or on one of Rocky's many lakes.

Combined, the fishing, memories and me spent fishing here can be magical and fulfilling in a way one may only experience here in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Keeping an expecta on of much more difficult fishing will remind oneself that catching a fish is not all that is defined by fishing.

Z. F. Coen is a freelance writer primarily interested in wildlife and outdoors. His passion for outdoors has kept him involved in numerous nonprofits focused on wildlife rehabilita on in northern Colorado. He is also a licensed falconer who is currently working with redtailed hawks. Coen, his wife, and six children reside in Estes Park Co., where he is currently pursuing his doctorate in experimental psychology. He is an ar st working in 3D, a musician of 29 years, and author. He also works locally as a backpacking, hiking, and fishing guide. He addi onally offers hawk walks for PTSD and CPTSD suffering veterans as a free service.

Z.F. Coen changing his fly selec on next to his fishpond net on the river embankment.

Stone Flies and Midges are both good op ons for the winter months. Pat's Rubber Legs, pictured top right, are commonly used to represent stone fly larvae. San Juan Worms, pictured top le , are also common to find in a box of flies if one is fishing in or near Rocky.

Hot Head Sow Bugs, pictured top center, are used to imitate Sow bugs o en called Cress bugs.

PMD's second row from top are used as an emerger, the period in which the larvae emerges to the surface and sheds its carapace.

Forest Hawks A female northern goshawk on her nest

Story and photos by Sco Rashid Director of CARRI Most everyone has seen red-tailed hawks soaring high over open meadows, or American kestrels perched on a power line along the roadside. These raptors are commonly seen in the open and easily observed as they are hun ng in the open meadows. However, there is a group of raptors that are a bit more difficult to observe: the accipiters. Accipiters are forest-dwelling raptors with short rounded wings and long tails. Having short wings and long tails enables these birds to maneuver rapidly through the thick forests when chasing poten al prey.

The largest of the accipiters, northern goshawks are raven-sized birds that prefer old-growth forests for nes ng and raising their young. These raptors live far within the forests of Colorado, usually above 8000 feet.

Within Rocky Mountain Na onal Park (RMNP) these hawks preferred habitat contains a mixture of aspen, Douglas fir, ponderosa, and lodgepole pines and frequently has an ac ve water source.

Northern goshawks in and around RMNP seem to prefer nes ng in live aspens, but will also construct their nests in lodgepole pine and Douglas-fir. Northern goshawks seem to prefer nes ng in live trees because the canopy above the nest gives some protec on from

A fledgling northern goshawk.

the elements as well as sharp-eyed avian predators.

When choosing a nes ng site northern goshawks frequently, but not exclusively, construct their nests within the woods along a trail or logging road. Doing this may aid the males in finding their nests when returning with prey. Northern goshawk nests are o en very large affairs with some nests being more than four feet across and three feet deep. They commonly have six or more nests within their territory that are used in different years. This may be due to a lack of prey in one area or parasites within a nest.

Northern goshawks will also prey upon rabbits, and hares, tree and ground squirrels, rats, and muskrats.

Small birds including wrens, kinglets, small finches, and warblers will nest close to northern goshawks, as the small birds are of no interest to the northern goshawk.

The goshawk is so protec ve of its nest, that the smaller birds automa cally have protec on from poten al danger near their nests.

The crow-sized Cooper's hawk is much less choosy about its nes ng site. Historically, Cooper's hawks nested in mixed forests far from human habita on.

An adult male northern goshawk

An adult Cooper’s hawk with a chipmunk

Portrait of a juvenile Cooper’s hawk

When nes ng in forests they nest on the edges of the woodlot, o en two-thirds to three-quarters up the tree near the trunk. Males construct the majority of the nest; however, some females will assist. Their nests are roughly two-feet across and ten inches deep.

As bird feeding has become more popular and Eurasian collared-doves have become more prevalent in ci es and towns, Cooper's hawks have become quite common. In some loca ons, they are the most common raptor. When in ci es, they o en construct their nests a few feet from the second-floor windows of homes and buildings, making them easy to monitor.

Adult Cooper’s hawk

Female Cooper's hawks are roughly twenty-inches from head to tail where their male counter-parts are only fi een-inches. The sharp-shinned hawks are by far, the smallest, with females being fourteen inches from head-to-tail and the males being less than a foot long.

Cooper's hawks prey upon many species of birds as well, but they frequently feed upon larger birds including doves, pigeons, robins and other thrushes, woodpeckers including northern flickers and hairy woodpeckers, sharp-shinned hawks, and American kestrels, screech and northern saw-whet owls, and game birds including small shorebirds, quail, pheasants, chickens, grouse, and ducks. In the west, they take birds as large a Clark's nutcrackers, black-billed magpies, and occasionally American crows and pigeons. Unlike sharp-shinned hawks, Cooper's will rou nely prey upon mammals including chipmunks, ground squirrels, rabbits, and hares.

The smallest of the woodland hawks is the jay-sized

Sharp-shinned hawk in juniper.

sharp-shinned hawk. They are a very high-strung species. These hawks are seldom if ever found nes ng in ci es and towns unless in the far northern parts of their range. Due to their small size, they nest in more dense habits than their larger cousins.

Sharpies, as they are o en called, construct a smaller nest than their larger rela ves. The pair brings

Adult sharp-shinned hawk.

Adult sharp-shinned hawk.

construc on material to the nest site, but the female does the majority of the nest construc on. Their nests are slightly larger than a basketball and o en placed against the trunk of the tree and roughly fi een feet from the ground. Sharp-shinned hawks will occasionally construct their nests on the tops of abandoned squirrel nests. In RMNP, sharp-shinned hawks are the rarest of the three accipiters as their nests are few and far between.

Sharp-shinned hawks are bird specialists, preying upon many species of small birds, including creepers, wrens, small woodpeckers, warblers, finches, and sparrows.

They will occasionally prey upon mice, voles, and chipmunks.

Larger birds including crows and magpies will nest close to sharp-shinned hawks, as the hawk is no threat to them.

The females of these three species are much larger than their male counterparts; which can make iden fying the individuals a bit tricky.

Female northern goshawks are, by far, the largest of the three, and can grow to a length of twenty-seven inches, where the smaller males are only about twenty inches from head to tail.

The northern goshawk is such a magnificently fast and powerful predator that it rou nely takes much larger prey than their smaller cousins. Northern goshawks will prey upon any medium-sized bird they come across, including both sharp-shinned and Cooper's hawks.

They also take a wide variety of game birds, including Adult sharp-shinned hawk.

half-grown turkeys, grouse, pheasants, ducks, geese, larger shorebirds, pigeons, and doves. They also prey upon herons, woodpeckers, including pileated and northern flickers, large finches, including pine and evening grosbeaks, jays, crows, and ravens.

In the next few months all three of these species will be migra ng north to their nes ng grounds, so keep an eye out for them near your bird feeders.

Northern goshawk nestlings

Ar st, researcher, bird rehabilitator, author, and director of a nonprofit are only a few things that describe Sco Rashid. Sco has been pain ng, illustra ng and wri ng about birds for over 30 years. In 2011, Sco created the Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilita on Ins tute in Estes Park.

In 2019, Sco located and documented the first Boreal Owl nest in the history of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in Colorado. Sco has wri en and published five books and several papers on a variety of avian species. More informa on available on his website: h p://www.carriep.org/

Cooper’s hawk near a bird feeder

How do I love thee?

Reader submissions of how Rocky has inspired them.

In honor of Valen ne’s Day and in awe of the many ways people represent Rocky Mountain Na onal Park through art, we asked readers to submit examples of their crea ons, inspired by the Park.

pen and ink

let me count the ways... mul -media art

Longs Peak 5, acrylic on glass, etched glass, by Tim Buck

TIM BUCK

Ar st Tim Buck has lived in Estes Park since 1989 a er gradua ng from Akron University with a degree in graphic design/illustra on. He sold his screen prin ng business in 2017 and now works part me at Estes Park News where he has published his cartoon strip, The Local Herd, for more than twenty years. Tim plans on pursuing his acrylic pain ng along with other art projects including anima on. You can visit localherd.com to see more of his Local Herd artwork.

Twin Owls in RMNP, illustra on by Tim Buck

How do I love thee? let me count the ways... stained glass

Elk, original stained glass by Jay Grooters

Dream Lake, original stained glass by Jay Grooters

JAY GROOTERS Growing up in Longmont, I have visited Rocky Mountain Na onal Park since I was a young boy. My folks had a cabin in Allenspark, so I became familiar with the Wild Basin and Bear Lake areas first. Then, in college, I worked for the Park on the Blister/Rust Crew for 4 years and spent me around the Hidden Valley and Trail Ridge Road area. As a Fire Control Aide for the Park, I spent a summer living on Twin Sisters in the tower that was there at the me and then spent a summer living at the North Fork Ranger Sta on on the way to Lost Lake, where I first met my wife-to-be, Fran McGraw Grooters. During this me, I did lots of hiking and par cipated in rescues on Fla op and Longs Peak.

A er Fran & I were married, I began designing and crea ng stained glass windows and lamps in 1971. We returned to Estes Park to live and built our home near the north eastern edge of the Park in 1974, allowing us to enjoy the Park in all its seasons – riding, hiking, skiing and snowshoeing.

While looking at my website, www.jaygrooters.com, or Facebook page, www.facebook.com/jaygrooters, you'll see Rocky's influence on my stained glass artwork - flowers, birds, animals and landscapes. Glass is a perfect medium to bring out the beauty of the Park's features, allowing them to change with the ligh ng of the day, just as in nature. It can be “quiet art” or extremely vibrant.

Some mes I surround the topic of the art with clear glass or make it freeform, le ng it flow into the natural beauty around us. Other mes, especially with landscapes, I'll recreate a favorite scene and let it fill a space with color. It is an ongoing joy for me to see how each piece varies as the light plays with the glass, whether crea ng my own design or working with others to bring their vision of the Park into their art.

How do I love thee? let me count the ways... watercolor

poetry

Barb Boyer Buck

Kaydence Kaydence is 12 years old and loves the outdoors and art. She enjoys spending me in Rocky because there is so much to paint.

Barb Boyer Buck has been a professional writer and editor for 25 years. Lois Smith of the Baldpate approached Barb in 2014 and asked her to write an original play in honor of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park’s 100th anniversary. The result was two plays, The Impossible Paradise (2014 & 2015), and Paradise Protected (2015). In the first play, Barb wrote poems for Rocky Mountain Jim to say throughout the piece.

This is the one he said to Isabella Bird in the play. None of Jim’s poetry exists today, but both he and Isabella were people who met in Estes Park in 1873.

Coming next month in

HIKE ROCKY - Hidden Valley, then and now. A historical look at northern Colorado’s beloved ski resort which closed in 1991. As a special feature, we will have the en re documentary, Ski Hidden Valley (2013)

by Brian Brown, accessible from the ar cle!

- The return of the Rocky Mountain bluebird. As a first sign of Spring, this beau ful bird, the color of a Colorado sky, is a welcome visitor! Sco Rashid will fill us in on this wonderful small bird.

- Signs of Spring, naturalist Marlene Borneman will speak about the signs of early Spring in Rocky.

- Transi ons, Dave Rusk will be examining the shoulder season and early March.

- Skiing Trail Ridge Road, Murray Selleck will ski the west side & Dave Rusk will ski the east side of this road which is closed to vehicles in the winter.

- An examina on of the Park’s BAER (Burned Area Emergency Response) Report (which was not available in me for this edi on).

- And so much more!

interested in adver sing? click here

Skiing Li Line in Hidden Valley, photo by Rio Roman.

We will have many more photos by Rio in next month’s edi on of HIKE ROCKY online magazine!