HIKE ROCKY magazine, September 2021

HIKE ROCKY magazine

Vol. I, Issue 10 September, 2021

a publication of

HIKE ROCKY There are hints of changing color of the aspen leaves now and the bugles of a few bull elk are dri ing through the air as we begin to transi on out of summer and into fall. Last year in September, we endured a freak snowstorm that closed Trail Ridge Road,followed

by October wildfires that cleared everyone out of the region. It was a wild fall.

This year when I go out, everything is calm. The grasses are tall and sway back and forth with the breeze and grass and flower seed get stuck in my socks, the growing season is done. The mountains sit bare, pa ently wai ng for winter snows. So far,everything seems peaceful and ready for a quiet transi on.

Welcome to the September issue of Hike Rocky! In this issue, Chris Reveley takes us on a Mummy Marathon (or as some call it, the Mummy Kill), while Sky Pond is the des na on for hiker Jason Miller. Our Trail of the Month features Deer Mountain where Itake you around on the Deer Ridge loop in wri ng and to the summit of Deer mountainin video.

In this issue, we also feature several people of the Park including an historical look atOliver W. Toll by Cindy Elkins, while Managing Editor Barb Boyer Buck pieces together the stain glass art of Jay Grooters (with video).

Front Cover Photo Contest Winner: Wiedemeyer Admiral bu erfly res ng on Pearly Everlas ng wildflowers by Pamela Johnson.

Her statement: “ I am a third genera on Colorado na ve living in Westminster. Living so close to Rocky is truly a blessing and great therapy for the mind, body and soul. I enjoy wildlife and nature photography and Rocky gives me the opportunity to learn all about the flora and fauna of this magnificent park.

Barb also interviews entomologist Dr. Paul Opler about the Bu erfly Project while Sco Rashid writes about the ny Flammulated Owl, which is also an entomologist of sorts.

Our resident wildflower botanist, Marlene Borneman, keeps us on our toes with our Wildflower Quiz on the late-blooming Astereceae, and our gear specialist, Murray Selleck, keeps us on our feet by reviewing the many kinds of footwear for the trail (video included).

Thanks for reading, and watching!

Dave Rusk, Publisher

HIKE ROCKY Magazine is a publication of Barefoot Enterprises, Inc., and RockyMountainDayHikes.com, Estes Park, Colorado.

HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com Volume 1, Issue 10, September 15, 2021 Copyright 2021, all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited.

Publisher: Dave Rusk Managing Editor: Barb Boyer Buck Copy Editor: Sybil Barnes Sales: Cynthia Elkins Contributors to the August, 2021 edition: Scott Rashid, Marlene M. Borneman, Barb Boyer Buck, Dave Rusk, Maddy Rusk, Murray Selleck, Pamela Johnson, Cindy Elkins, Jason Miller, Chris Reveley.

a note from the managing editor It’s a glorious me to be in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park - the fall! Cooler temperatures make for pleasant hiking and the autumn leaves are star ng to make their annual appearance.

By the me we publish the next edi on of HIKE ROCKY, the reserva on system will have ended, too!

I’m proud of the team we’ve collected here at HIKE ROCKY magazine, and thank all of you for your con nued support, contribu ons, and engagement.

Visit us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twi er: Rocky Mountain Day Hikes , on these pla orms we strive to keep you updated on all the latest Rocky news!

call for submissions Here at HIKE ROCKY magazine, we welcome quality content from writers and photographers who love Rocky Mountain Na onal Park as much as we do!

Email your story idea and/or photos to HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com to be considered for publica on and to inquire about what we pay to our contributors. HIKE ROCKY is a collabora on, con nually seeking to involve our online community!

cover photo contest Each month, we will feature a cover photo from a photographer who lives and breathes Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Photo submissions must be received by the end of the month to be considered for the following month’s cover. The photo must have been taken in Rocky, not previously published (except for social media), and be seasonal.

The winner will receive a cash prize, free access to the edi on that features his or her photo, and online promo on.

A hint about what we are looking for to grace our cover every month is included in our weekly email blast.

To sign up for no fica ons, visit: h p://rockymountaindayhikes.com/hike-rocky-emailno fica on-page.html - Barb Boyer Buck, Managing Editor, HIKE ROCKY

table of contents

click on any of the links below to be taken straight to the story

Late Bloomers, a quiz by Marlene Borneman

RMNP UPDATES

News from Rocky Mountain National Park, August 16 - September 15

COVER STORY

Evocations of Butteries: the Buttery Project at Rocky,

by Barb Boyer Buck

HIKE ROCKY

Trail of the Month: Deer Mountain Deer Mountain Loop, a hike on August 25, by Dave Rusk

Feet Don’t Fail Me Now: footwear considerations, by Murray Selleck A Mummy Range Adventure, 2021, by Chris Reveley Lake of Glass & Sky Pond, by Jason Miller

FEATURES FEA FEATURES TURES

F Feature photo: Path of the Cameron Peak Fire, by Chris Reveley PARK PEOPLE: Oliver W. Toll, by Cindy Elkins ART IN ROCKY: The Stained-glass art of Jay Grooters The Flam, Rocky’s Tiny Owl, by Scott Rashid

COMING NEXT MONTH IN HIKE ROCKY

Late Bloomers

in the

Asteracea Family

by Marlene Borneman

Many Species of the Asteraceae Family bloom in late summer and autumn, especially asters. These blooms are long las ng, some mes un l late autumn. Inspired by the Colorado Na ve Plants Society.

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RMNP UPDATES

RMC seeks support for new SAR vehicle & other news from Rocky Na onal Park Service implements na onal mask requirement RMNP News Release - August 16, 2021 WASHINGTON – Following the latest science and guidance from the Centers for Disease Control and Preven on, the Na onal Park Service (NPS) is immediately requiring visitors, employees and contractors to wear a mask inside all NPS buildings and in crowded outdoor spaces, regardless of vaccina on status or community transmission levels.

“Visitors to na onal parks are coming from loca ons across the country, if not across the world. Because of this, and recognizing that the majority of the United States is currently in substan al or high transmission categories, we are implemen ng a service-wide mask requirement to ensure our staff and visitors’ safety,” said NPS Deputy Director Shawn Benge.

This requirement will be in effect un l further no ce and applies to all NPS buildings and public transporta on systems. It also applies to outdoors spaces where physical distancing cannot be maintained,

such as narrow or busy trails and overlooks.

“Being vaccinated is the most effec ve way to protect yourself and your loved ones from the dangers of the coronavirus. Masking in addi on to being vaccinated will help prevent the spread of new variants and protect those who are more at risk of severe disease.

This simple act of kindness allows us to be safe while we con nue to enjoy the benefits of our na onal parks,” said Capt. Maria Said, MD, an epidemiologist in the NPS Office of Public Health and a member of the U.S. Public Health Service Commissioned Corps.

Individuals looking to get a COVID-19 vaccine can visit vaccines.gov to find a loca on close to them and make an appointment. Individuals can also text their ZIP code to 438829 and get a text with the closest COVID-19 vaccine loca on.

Road And Parking Lot Striping Taking Place Throughout Rocky Mountain Na onal Park RMNP UPDATE - August 18, 2021 During the day, when striping occurs on paved roads, travelers should expect rolling delays up to 30 minutes

Monday through Friday. Most work for parking areas will be completed at night Sundays through Thursdays from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m. When striping occurs in parking lots, those areas will be closed. Striping work will not occur on weekends.

For further informa on about Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, please visit www.nps.gov/romo or call the park’s Informa on Office at (970) 586-1206. from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m. When striping occurs in parking lots, those areas will be closed. Striping work will not occur on weekends.

Trail Ridge Road and Old Fall River Road Temporarily Closed RMNP UPDATE - August 20, 2021 Trail Ridge Road and OFRR are temporarily closed due to white out condi ons and ice buildup. Rocky Mountain Na onal Park snowplow operators are currently plowing the road.

Please call the Trail Ridge Road recorded status line at (970) 586-1222 or follow the park's twi er site @RockyNPS for updates.

mph as well as white out condi ons due to blowing snow above 11,500 feet.

Rocky Mountain Conservancy Asks Community to Help Fund New Search and Rescue Vehicle for Rocky RMNP UPDATE - August 24, 2021 New tac cal vehicle to replace aging SAR response vehicle The Rocky Mountain Conservancy (RMC) is seeking support to fund a new Search and Rescue (SAR) vehicle for the Rocky Mountain Na onal Park SAR Team. The team currently uses an aging ambulance as its primary vehicle. Built in 1993, the former ambulance has more than 120K miles on it and has become less reliable over its lifespan. This vehicle is also not fuel efficient, nor does it u lize modern technology. With the high number of SAR incidents at Rocky, this vehicle is no longer able to reliably respond.

Trail Ridge Road and Old Fall River Road have reopened RMNP UPDATE - August 20, 2021 Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park reopened this a ernoon at approximately noon followed by Old Fall River Road at 12:30.

Photographs a ached are during plowing of Old Fall River Road as well as from the Alpine Visitor Center parking lot looking toward Gore Range Overlook.

Road condi ons included significant ice, gusts of 50

On average, Rocky’s Search and Rescue Team responds to 160-175 incidents each year – the third highest compared to other na onal parks. These incidents include a full range of rescues, from broken ankles and heat exhaus on to technical rope rescues and swi water recoveries, and even large-scale mul -day searches. Some rescues also involve helicopter extrac ons that require a reliable support vehicle to make the rescue possible.

Since RMNP has one of the largest highest SAR incident rates in the na onal park system, the SAR vehicle has become one of the most cri cal pieces of SAR equipment. It is a mobile pla orm that is ou i ed with all equipment necessary for various rescues. Today, the Conservancy is seeking support to provide the SAR

Team with a new 4x4 ‘mobile command vehicle for cri cal life-saving emergencies, and for managing complex rescue opera ons within the park. The Conservancy’s fundraising goal for the project is $75,000 which would cover the cost of the base vehicle, conversion build, ou i ng and markings.

Anyone who would like more informa on on the project is asked to contact the Conservancy’s Philanthropy Director, Michael Allen, at (720) 845-5690.

The Conservancy has set up a secure fundraising webpage for this project at: www.RMConservancy.org.

It also recently published a guest ar cle by SAR recipient and now volunteer, Bob Jamieson, at h ps://rmconservancy.org/a- search-and-rescuesuccess-story/ to give more context to the need for this support.

Annual Meadow Closures During Elk Rut Season In Rocky Mountain Na onal Park RMNP UPDATE, August 31, 2021 Beginning on September 1, park officials will put annual closures in place for travel on foot or horse off established roadways or designated trails from 5 p.m. to 10 a.m. In 2020, the closure me extended from 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. due to a significant increase in visitors approaching elk in previous years, when the morning meadow closures li ed.

These closures last through October 31 and are effec ve in Horseshoe Park, Upper Beaver Meadows, Moraine Park, Harbison Meadow and Holzwarth Meadow in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Fishing in the Fall River, Thompson River or Colorado River within the posted areas remain the same as previous years and are closed from 5 p.m. to 7 a.m.

The purpose of the closures is to prevent disturbance and harassment of elk during their fall ma ng period and to enhance visitor elk viewing opportuni es.

As always, elk calling and the use of spotlights or vehicle headlights for spo ng wildlife is prohibited in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

NPS photo

COVER STORY

Evocation of Butteries Rocky Mountain parnassian, male (lacking most black markings!) Parnassius smintheus, Swallowtail family; Iden fied

by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Marlene Borenman

The Butterfly Project at Rocky Mountain National Park

by Barb Boyer Buck The Bu erfly Project in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park ran from 1995-2011, under the direc on of Dr. Paul Opler, entomologist, student advisor, and professor at Colorado State University. Opler had received a collec on permit with the Na onal Park Service to study bu erflies and moths in Rocky.

“I mainly ran ultra-violet light traps to study moths,” he said, “but at the same me, my wife Evi and I were teaching classes on bu erflies through the Rocky Mountain Conservancy, about three classes per year.”

Richard Bray had a ended one of these classes and decided he wanted to do an extensive study on the subject, so he moved from Maryland to Estes Park and became the lead researcher on the Rocky Mountain Bu erfly project; unfortunately, Bray passed away several weeks ago.

Together, Bray and Opler designed a study to include walking, linear transects of 1,000 meters each in different life zones and on both the east and west sides of Rocky. The project u lized the collec on efforts of 50 'ci zen scien st' volunteers and was able to observe

Police Car Moth, Gnophaela vermiculata, Erebidae, Tiger moth family, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler. photo by Dave Rusk

Arc c fri llary, Boloria chariclea, Brushfoot family iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Pamela Johnson

and photograph 141 confirmed species (as of July 2012), including several that had never before been found in the Park.

Through his light-trapping ac vi es, Opler discovered more than 1,000 species moths, many were iden fied

by interna onally renowned experts. This beau ful diversity of Lepidoptera adds to the rich pale e of flora and fauna in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Ever since Opler was a child, beginning with family walks in California, he's been fascinated with nature.

While a ending fi h grade in Pleasant Hill, he and his buddy Pete Robinson were encouraged by their teacher, Mrs. McKewan, who arranged for the boys and their parents to visit the insect collec on at the University of California at Berkeley. The boys then met with Dr. Edward O. Essig, professor of entomology and

author of several books, including The Insects of Western North America, published in 1926.

“From that moment, I decided I was going to go the University of California and major in entomology,” remembered Dr. Opler in an interview with HIKE ROCKY magazine on September 13.

Caterpillar of Anise swallowtail; iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler Photo by Marlene Borneman

“Once I find something I like, I tend to keep doing it un l it is proven to me that I should be doing something else,” he said about his dedica on to and perhaps, obsession with bu erflies.

A year a er he graduated from UC Berkeley, he was dra ed into the Army; given his status as a college graduate, he was sta oned at the First Army Medical Lab in New York City where he spent two years iden fying mosquitos. He was able to take early leave to a end graduate school at San Jose State University and later went on to receive his doctorate in entomology at Berkeley.

He became the first entomologist in the US Fish & Wildlife's endangered species program in Washington, D.C., and subsequently transferred to Fort Collins where he directed the Division of Research's editorial and publica on program. He re red from the Department of Interior in 1997. The day following his re rement, Paul became a special appointment professor in the entomology department at Colorado State University.

Anise swallowtail, Papilio zelicaon, Swallowtail family, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Pamela Johnson

He currently serves as a student advisor and research fellow, working from his office in the C.P. Gille e Museum of Arthropod Diversity on campus. This museum has more than 35,000 Lepidoptera (mostly moth) specimens endemic to Rocky.

Bu erflies have varying life spans; some adults only live a couple of days while others become torpid to overwinter in a hollow tree, emerging in the spring to lay eggs on their host plants. When the caterpillars (or larvae) hatch they feast on the plants' new, green leaves. The more than 1,000 species of larvae in Rocky will then enter the pupa stage of development, in which the wings are developed. When the bu erfly or moth emerges, a er hardening, they spread their wings and fly, looking to mate.

Milbert tortoiseshell, Aglais milber , Brushfoot family, iden fied

by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Marlene Borneman

Flights vary between species, too, with some flying once a year and others, every other year. “Some fly only in even-numbered years and others only in oddnumbered years,” explained Dr. Opler.

Rocky Mountain parnassian, female, Parnassius smintheus, Swallowtail family, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; Photo by Marlene Borneman

There is diversity within species, too, with specimens showing regional differences. “This is the result of having been geographically isolated for thousands of millennia.”

Greenish blue, male, Plebejus saepiolus, Gossamerwing family, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Barb Boyer Buck

discovered a completely torpid bu erfly. She put the insect on her dining room table thinking it was dead and went into the other room for a while. When she returned, the bu erfly was flying around the room, so she thought it had come back to life.

The gene c make-up of Lepidoptera has been studied, too. Dr. Opler has a poster on the wall of his office, detailing the genomes of the more than 800 species of North American bu erflies. “With today's technology, you can get a complete genome which is like, 30 million base pairs from one or two legs of a bu erfly specimen,” he said.

During ma ng season, some males perch in a likely spot, wai ng for the females to flit by. Others search for poten al mates by flying over suitable habitat.

When basking (warming up their wings), some perch laterally (wings closed) and others, dorsally.

“They are cold-blooded creatures so they can't fly un l their bodies warm up,” explained Opler.

“There are several species of alpine bu erfly that live only on rock slides in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, because it's warmer on rock slides than it is on the surrounding tundra. They can fly earlier in the day and later in the a ernoon” in the highest reaches of Rocky.

Once, Dr. Opler was called to “witness a miracle.” A woman was had brought in a load of firewood and

Mourning Cloak (overwintered), Nymphalis an opa, Brushfoot family, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Marlene Borneman

Bog fri llary, Boloria eunomia, Brushfoot family, iden fied

by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Barb Boyer Buck

Plume moth, family Pterophoridae, iden fied by Dr. Paul Opler; photo by Marlene Borneman

Bu erflies evoke joy and wonder as they gracefully flu er around the landscapes of Rocky. And thanks to the obsession of one man, the field research of another, and thousands of hours of dedicated field work by many volunteers, we can understand and appreciate them even more.

For more informa on on Dr. Paul Opler, visit agsci.colostate.edu/agbio/peoplebu on/faculty/paul-opler For more informa on on Rocky's Bu erfly project, see h ps://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/nature/rockymountain-bu erfly-project.htm

Click here to return to the table of contents

Barb Boyer Buck is a professional writer, journalist, editor, photographer, playwright, and researcher who lives in Estes Park.

Barb is the managing editor of HIKE ROCKY online magazine.

TRAIL OF THE MONTH

Deer Mountain

There are two main mountain ranges in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park that are visible from the two main roads coming into the eastern side, the Front Range, anchored by Longs Peak on the south, and the Mummy Range, with Ypsilon Mountain the most notable. But there are very few easily accessible places in the Park where views of both ranges can be simultaneously enjoyed. The Deer Mountain trail and the Deer Ridge loop offer unmatched views of both.

Besides unparalleled views, the Deer Mtn hike is one of the easiest of peaks to hike up, at just 3 miles and just over 1,000 of eleva on gain. Standing like an iceberg that has floated away from the main mountains, it's lower eleva on and proximity east makes it good early season hike, while patches of aspens light up in the fall.

The other trail that begins from the Deer Mountain trailhead is the Deer Ridge loop. As with any loop, the hiker can go clockwise or counterclockwise, but I suggest taking this loop clockwise traveling first along the Fall River side of Deer Mountain, then east with views of the Estes valley, and finally on the north side climaxing at the summit of Deer Mountain before

descending back to the trailhead. The many vistas along this trail are some of the best in the Park.

Deer Mountain - 3 miles Trail Type: Moderate Hike/Peak Hike Trailhead: Deer Mountain Trailhead Eleva on: 8,930' Des na on Eleva on: 10,006' Total Eleva on Gain: 1,076' Total Roundtrip Miles: 6 h ps://rockymountaindayhikes.com/deermountain-peak-hikes.html

Deer Ridge Loop - 5.4 Trail Type: Longer Hike/Loop Hike Trailhead: Deer Mountain Trailhead Eleva on: 8,930' Des na on Eleva on: 10,006' Total Eleva on Gain: 1,076' Total Roundtrip Miles: 10.8 h ps://rockymountaindayhikes.com/deer-ridgeloop-hikes.html

Click on the photo above to hike along with us on the Deer Mountain trail.

Hiking the Deer Mountain Loop story and photos by Dave Rusk Anyone who has dropped into the Estes Valley from the east will remember the awe they felt when seeing the lo y peaks of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park for the first me. It is a feeling the traveler will want to experience again and again, causing many to return.

Deer Mountain is not a peak that gets no ced, even though it's right there in front of all the other notable peaks. However, it is a great mountain to hike to enjoy the views of all the other peaks. Just under 10,000 , this mountain has a broad top that looks like its peak got sliced off (and is res ng a few miles east, known as Old Man Mtn). When I view Deer Mountain from Lake Estes, it looks like a sleeping giant with the head to the north, arms crossed in the middle, and knobby knees to the south end.

The two main roads that run into the Na onal Park from the east, US Hwy 34 and 36, run up on either side of Deer Mountain and converge at the west side of this island mountain at a place commonly know as Deer Ridge Junc on. It was once the loca on of the Deer

The Deer Mountain Trailhead

Ridge Chalet, a popular stopping spot in the 1950's with an observa on tower rising out of the gi shop giving the motorist an excellent vantage point of the Na onal Park’s many other mountain peaks. This is also where the hiker will find the Deer Mountain trailhead.

The 3 mile Deer Mountain summit trail is the popular hike that originates from this trailhead. The other trail, the 10.5 mile Deer Ridge loop, might qualify as one of

Li le Horseshoe Park

Li le Horseshoe Park in S[romg

Mummy Range with Ypsilon Mtn, along with Li le Horseshoe Park in the foreground. Li le Horseshoe Park was the site of the first CCC camp west of the Mississippi River and was ac ve during the summer months from 1933 to 1938.

Hiking across the north slope of Deer Mountain, below the dis nc ve north summit rock outcrop that is highly visible along the upper Fall River Road corridor, I happened across some bear poop on the trail. It was a reminder, more like a wake up call, that I was traveling in bear country and I should be on the look out.

Bear Poop

the least traveled trials in the Park, despite its varied and outstanding views. I recently hiked the loop on a Saturday of Labor Day holiday and I did not encounter one other hiker un l the trail reconnected with the Deer Mountain summit trail near the top. This is an excellent fall or early spring trail.

This part of the trail does travel above many resorts and homes along the Fall River and every year there are reports of bear causing trouble in the area. Only a few weeks earlier, there was a report of a bear opening car doors of numerous unlocked vehicles. They say if you do encounter a bear on the trail, you should “stop and do not run. Stay calm and pick up small children (I didn't have any small children with me). Make lots of

To take the Deer Ridge loop trail, follow the main trail for about 50 yards. Then take a trail that branches off to the le . There is a trail marker sign poin ng the the way to the Aspenglen Campground and Li le Horseshoe Park, but currently it is res ng against a fallen tree and could be missed if you are not watching for it.

This is the western end of what is called the N. Deer Mtn Trail. The hiking is easy along this stretch with the trail mostly following the contour. A er 4.5 miles, this trail will then meet up with the S. Deer Mtn Trail, taking the hiker to the Deer Mountain summit.

The trail starts in the trees, but a er a li le bit the landscape opens up to wonderful views of the south

North Deer Ridge summit

Top le : the Deer Ridge Loop in Spring; bo om le ; autumn aspen leaves

noise. Back away slowly. Stand tall, but if you are a acked, fight back.” (h ps://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/nature/black_bears. htm) I thought I would drop my pack to the ground also.

I've only encountered a bear while hiking on a trail once. I was on the Cub Lake trail and as soon as we noticed each other , the bear turned and disappeared into the trees. It didn't seem at all interested in me or my pack. I figured that would likely happen here also, but always good to stay alert. Although I passed probably a half dozen bear scat along this section of the trail, I never did see a bear. For all I know, there may have been one staying out of sight, but watching me.

A fair section of this north trail crosses through open terrain with large patches of young aspen trees sprouting up and filling in the open space. I wondered why these aspen groves were so young, and then remembered that this area was once covered with beetle kill trees.

The Park had been busy clearing the beetle kill out with considerable fire mitigation for the last 10 years as part of the Deer Mountain Fuels Reduction Program. Even when I crossed back into healthy woods where the beetles did not inflect damage, I noticed that the lower branches of trees were removed, along with other Globe Flowers on the trail to Crystal Lake and Lawn Lake

Fire-mi gated woods

“ladder fuels,” giving the forest an open park feel. Much of their work throughout the Park has been effec ve in reducing the spread of recent fire into popula on areas.

It should be noted that this is not a trail that takes the hiker into a remote sec on of the Park. As you hike east along this stretch of the trail, you are hiking towards the town of Estes Park and there are nice views looking out over the Estes Valley and town does not feel too far off. In fact, at 4.2 miles, having traveled almost to the eastern p of the trail, the hiker will encounter a trail junc on that is marked for Estes Park. I have not walked this sec on of trail and I am not aware of any established trailhead in the area. But I know this to be

Top: the Deer Mountain Trail; bo om: Sunrise over the Estes Valley;

Sunrise over the Estes Valley

an old trail from the early years used primarily by horseback riders going from town to the summit of Deer Mountain.

Take the right hand trail over to the S. Deer Mountain trail and up to the ridge line. Longs Peak suddenly appears, framed by Ponderosa Pines. This iconic landscape of open Ponderosa terrain backdropped by the mountains peaks of the Con nental Divide transports me back in me where I imagine riding my horse in the Park, instead of si ng in a car at the entrance gate. Soon Moraine Park and the full expanse of the front range comes into view. This is definitely a magical part of the trail to hike and it's best viewed if you can get here in the early to mid-morning light.

It is only now, a er having hiked 2/3 of the way around the mountain, that the trail finally begins its ascent of Deer Mountain with a series of switchbacks, some of them quite short, before reaching the east por on of the broad top. Soon the trail connects with the summit trail at 7.5 miles, topping off a pleasant day of hiking.

All that's le is the enjoyable 3-mile descent back to the trailhead.

The Front Range Dave Rusk has been sauntering and taking photographs through Rocky Mountain Na onal Park for decades.

He is the author publisher of Rocky Mountain Day Hikes, a book of 24 hikes in Rocky, and the website of the same name. He is the publisher of HIKE ROCKY Magazine and an important content contributor to all of these endeavors.

Click here to return to the table of contents

A portable introduc on to 24 trails in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, these trails range from very short, easy walks to long and more challenging hikes. Purchase here

Colorado wildowers Spring through fall, Colorado’s dazzling display of wildflowers charms and some mes overwhelms. These guidebooks make flower iden fica on easy; the compact size is perfect for hikers and backpackers.

This guidebook showcases 22 trails filled with na ve wildflower species across five life zones. Trail descrip ons include habitats and interes ng dbits on each flower, along with lis ngs of na ve flora, common and scien fic names.

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Marlene Borneman has been photographing Colorado's wildflowers while on her hiking and climbing adventures since 1979. Marlene has climbed Colorado's 54 14ers and the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky.

Purchase Marlene’s books at the Rocky Mountain Conservancy or the Colorado Mountain Club Press.

All summer, the alpine tundra of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park awakens from winter sleep with an incredible display of wildflowers.

The harsh environment has a short growing season and the plants must make the most of it with a showy presenta on.

22 of the best wildflower hikes • along the Front Range, Colorado Springs to Fort Collins (and RMNP) A wide range of hikes - from family- • friendly to challenging • Complete trail descrip ons including color photos and maps

Wildflowers are grouped by color and subdivided as plant families.

Both common and scien fic names are provided to avoid confusion.

Addi onal help comes from the informa on on life zones, habitat, characteris cs, and season.

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Covers 128 of the alpine tundra’s most common wildflowers Detailed photos for easy iden fica on The latest classifica ons for serious wildflower lovers

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Inden fies 180 of Colorado’s most common wildflowers Revised with latest classifica ons Organized by color and plant families 220 photos for easy iden fica on Superb educa onal tool for all ages

Feet, don’t fail me now!

Footwear for the trail story and photos by Murray Selleck, HIKE ROCKY’s equipment specialist Right up front let's agree footwear is complicated.

There is specialty footwear for every ac vity and sport on the planet. And there certainly is no lack of choices and op ons!

And there is fit to consider. If a shoe doesn't fit it doesn't ma er how many review stars it has earned or how many design rewards it has earned. If a shoe or boot doesn't fit your foot what good is it?

Footwear construc on has become a rabbit hole of patents, trademarks, and proprietary technology .

Yes, footwear can be complicated if you let it be.

Thankfully, as day hikers and backpackers we can eliminate tons of choices and narrow our search to six categories. Hang in there with me. We're going to make this easy.

Types of Trail Footwear The short list of footwear for day hikers and backpackers can be broken down to these categories: - Specialty Sandals.

- Trail Running Shoes.

- Lightweight/Low-cut hikers - Approach Shoes.

- Midweight or Mid-cut Hiking Boots.

- Backpacking Boots.

The category list runs from the so est flexing and least amount of ankle protec on from twists and sprains (generally speaking) to firmer flexing soles and increased ankle protec on (generally speaking).

Footwear Considera ons One of the main considera ons in choosing hiking footwear is the trail and terrain type you'll be on most o en. So trails covered with a cushioning duff are quite different from trails filled with unforgiving stone.

A quick hike around a forested lake is a far cry from climbing and topping out on one of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park's high alpine peaks.

The seasons and daily weather forecasts are another considera on. Hiking in the heat of summer you may want the most breathable and lightest weight shoe or sandal you can find. Hiking in early spring or late fall may have you kick stepping up and over deep snow dri s and through persistent storms filled with falling rain, hail, and even snow! Waterproof boots that keep your feet dry and warm will make you a happy hiker

through the soggiest and sloppiest of weather and trail condi ons.

Thinking about when and where you are hiking will help you decide if a low cut breathable light hiker is appropriate or a stout GoreTex waterproof boot fits your needs. And of course, the answer is possibly both!

Sandals

Sandal - Tevea Original Universal Sandal

Sandals from Chaco, Luna, Teva, and Bedrock are the go-to choices for adventure sandals. It does take a certain free spirit to hike and run in sandals.

The benefit is wearing some of the lightest weight footwear available. Talk about breathable!

Make sure you take a look at the outsole when choosing a sandal. It has to offer decent tread for reliable trac on. And the webbing should hold your foot firmly in place.

Trail Running Shoe - ON Cloudventurel

If the free spirit in you decides a sandal is a great hiking op on for you make sure you have weighed the pros and cons. Some of the cons can include increased risk of twis ng your ankle and being more suscep ble to cuts and abrasions.

Trail Running Shoes There has been a long term trend of hikers ditching their boots for lightweight trail running shoes. And who can blame them?

Light Hiker - Oboz Sawtooth II Lowcut

Comfortable and light make hiking in a designed trial running shoe a pleasure.

What's the cau onary note? Trail runners may not have the durability or longevity of hiking boots. Many trail runners have a life expectancy of about 300 miles or even less. And if the trail runner doesn't offer enough under foot protec on you may feel every pebble, stone, and rock you step on. At the end of the day you may wind up with bruised and very red feet.

A ques on to ask your salesperson is about the midsole of the trail runner you are considering. Is the midsole made of EVA foam or PU (polyurethane)? EVA foam provides cushioning that can borderline on luxurious but it breaks down quick.

Midwieght Hiker - Keen Targhee III Waterproof

So trail runners or even light hiking shoes may fold over every stone you step on leaving your foot

Click on the photo above to watch a demonstra on on how perform flex and torsion tests on your footwear.

suscep ble to bruising. Polyurethane is a denser material that adds longevity (and a bit of weight) to the shoe and increases under the foot protec on.

Trail running shoes and light hikers may have an addi onal forefoot “plate” to protect your foot from all the stones and rocks on the trail. These plates also add some rigidity to the forefoot that inhibit the sole of the shoe to fold down over rocks. The sole provides a stronger pla orm for you to step up on. You can hike farther without your feet wearing out and becoming overly red.

with a nice rolling flex. This is especially true on less demanding trails and terrain. There are pros and cons that need to be weighed when considering a shoe like this.

The main considera on I think about is terrain. If I know my hike will involve boulder fields, loose scree on offcamber slopes, or really steep ascents/descents a lightweight hiker may not offer enough stability and torsional strength to keep my foo ng stable.

Midweight Hiking Boots

Lightweight / Low Cut Hikers

This style of boot is very much like a lightweight hiking shoe with all its features but the upper is cut higher to cover your ankle bones. If you have ever nicked your ankle against a rock while hiking you know the addi onal coverage and protec on these boots offer is an appreciated benefit.

This kind of shoe is typically a step up in foot protec on and trail life expectancy compared to a trail running shoe. The lugs on the outsole may be more aggressive and cut deeper than a trail running shoe. This can increase your trac on hiking uphill and braking power on downhills.

A lightweight, low cut, hiking shoe is a pleasure to wear allowing you to move fast and cover distance easily

Another benefit is the added lacing that can help hold your heel and ankle in place crea ng a nice secure feeling inside the boot. The cau onary note on midweight hikers is just because the boot is cut higher over your ankle this doesn't necessarily mean extra protec on against twis ng or spraining an ankle.

Many uppers on midweight hiking boots are very so and easily foldable. Ankle protec on primarily comes

When trying on a pair of trail running shoes in the store it is important to be able to step on some kind of simulated stone or undula on to feel what you can expect as far as under the foot protec on goes.

These boots allow a hiker to carry the most weight in their pack, as well. The stout sole and strong upper provide the most stability over rough terrain whether you are on trail or out bushwhacking and exploring.

To get around the s ffness of the sole backpacking boots offer a nice rocker underneath. This rocker lets you hike with a naturally forward rolling stride that won't inhibit hiking millage.

Approach Shoe - Salewa Mountain Trainer Lite

from the torsional strength of the sole and how strong the heel counter is.

Approach Shoes Approach shoes are typically very s ff both through the forward flex and torsional length of the sole. If you are expec ng an approach shoe to feel like a lightweight or midweight hiker you're in for a surprise.

The intended use of an approach shoe is for rock climbers or alpinists to “approach” their climbs over very rugged and steep terrain. The added s ffness of the sole, along with using s cky climbing shoe rubber on the outsole, allows the user to step up on thin rock ledges and nego ate difficult terrain with confidence.

Once they are at the bo om of their climb they might change into rock climbing shoes or mountaineering boots or use their approach shoe as their climbing shoe.

Approach shoes typically offer lacing that goes past the instep all the way into the toe box of the shoe. This added length of lacing allows for the shoe to completely wrap your foot securely inside. This style of lacing also allows you to accommodate your foot width... Loosen the laces for a wide fit or snug them up for a narrow fit. Generally, approach shoes run narrow.

Backpacking Boots Backpacking boots can be stout both through the sole and the upper. Personally, I like using my backpacking boots as both my day hiking boots and for mul -day trips. Naturally, I'm considered old school but no ma er where my hike takes me or whatever weather may surprise me, I'm prepared.

Probably the greatest benefit of these boots is the longevity. You will own and use backpacking boots for many years to come without the fear of the boots wearing out prematurely.

Backpacking boots are typically a full grain leather upper. All other lighter weight footwear uppers generally are a suede or fabric op on. Full grain leather adds to the durability of the boots.

Helpful Tips Personal preference is just that, personal. What is the perfect pair of trail shoes for yourself will have your best friend rolling their eyes! Fit, design, and even color, play into our footwear decisions. Some helpful ps on making your footwear purchase is to bring the socks you like to wear and use them to try on new footwear.

Also, if you use an a ermarket insole bring those with you, as well.

Hopefully the shop where you are buying your shoes or boots has an incline board you can step on. An incline board will have some bumps on it to simulate rocks and roots so you can judge the sole's protec veness.

An incline board also gives you the chance to see how well the shoe is holding your foot in place for downhills.

It's possible to hike uphill in a shoe that is a li le short in length but once you start downhill that just too short shoe will become painfully obvious. The incline board helps you determine proper shoe length.

Don't predict shoe fit by size alone. Shoe sizes are not standardized. One manufacturer's size 8 is another's size 9. The best and only way to judge size is with your feet in the new pair of shoes. Try both the le and right shoes together. Most folks have different sized feet and this only adds to the sizing dilemma.

Waterproof footwear is a great op on. Even in a drought year you can expect rain. Waterproof footwear

Backpacking Boot - Scarpa Zanskar (no longer in produc on)

lets you stomp right through puddles and wet sec ons of trail. Stay on the trail and keep our trails narrow!

(Leave No Trace ethics).

Consider using a gaiter over your trail running shoes or boots. Summer gaiters are trim, low cut, and not cumbersome like winter gaiters can be. Summer gaiters will keep ny pebbles and grit out of your footwear as you're hiking keeping you on pace for a perfect hike.

The last p is when you find the perfect pair of shoes or boots you may want to consider purchasing two of the same pair. I've heard it many mes from a disappointed hiker that their favorite footwear has been changed by the manufacturer only to have it not fit or perform like their old favorite.

Good luck in your footwear search and happy trails!

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Murray Selleck moved to Colorado in 1978. In the early 80’s he split his me working winters in a ski shop in Steamboat Springs and his summers guiding on the Arkansas River. His career in the specialty outdoor industry has con nued for over 30 years. Needless to say, he has witnessed decades of change in outdoor equipment and clothing. Steamboat Springs con nues to be home.

A Mummy

Range

Adventure 2021

The north face of Mount Ypsilon

I am well aware that what I'm doing is not par cularly good for me, jogging up the middle of a paved road in the dark. This me it's Highway 34, west of Estes Park, leading to the Fall River Entrance of RMNP, on a calm, cool summer morning. Bond Park, in downtown Estes, was well lit but completely deserted when I started at 2:30 a.m.

I'm sure that humans were not meant to run on hard smooth surfaces, taking thousands of iden cal steps, mile a er mile. Our hips, knees and lower backs wear out. Osteoarthri s is epidemic among baby boomers who have trained and raced on pavement for years. My genera on alone provides long-term job security for legions of orthopedic surgeons who replace worn out joints and fuse lumbo-sacral spine segments.

Knowing all this, it's s ll hard to deny the charm of tro ng up the middle of this wide right-of-way for

seven miles in the so darkness without a single automo ve disturbance.

Lawn Lake Trailhead, about 4:00 a.m: S ll quite dark so I tap the headlamp and start up the trail, high-stepping over rocks and log checks. Lawn Lake is a bit over 6 miles away but I won't be going there today. About 5 miles up I'll turn right, onto the Black Canyon Trail, follow it east for a quarter mile then angle le up the southeast shoulder of Mummy Mountain in my a empt to summit all of the Mummy Range Peaks before returning to town later in the day. This is a tour I first did 45 years ago at age 25.

Memory has been shown to be a selec ve, crea ve phenomenon that may not always match reality.

Therein lies a hazard: Aging endurance athlete underes mates the difficulty and magnitude of an adventure, relying on the memories of his younger,

Looking west from Mummy Mountain at Hauges Peak

stronger self. I'm having this experience a lot lately, repea ng rock climbs I did in my youth and finding them to be very different (and usually much more difficult) than I recall.

The first few switchbacks of the Lawn Lake trail lead up and west to a sharp right turn where the trail meets the Roaring River. Formerly a quiet stream hidden in the forest, the river now occupies the bo om of a deep, wide gorge. My headlamp beam reveals the raw gash in the mountainside and I'm careful not to approach the crumbling edge. I think back to drama c events on a summer day, 39 years ago.

The Lawn Lake Dam was built in 1903 by Loveland farmers to expand the capacity of the naturally-occuring lake for storage of irriga on water. Rarely inspected over its 79-year lifespan, the dam weakened and failed catastrophically in the early morning hours of July 15, 1982.

Thirty million cubic feet of water raced down the valley, reaching a peak flow of 20,000 cubic feet per second and picking up many tons of debris along the way. The flood scoured a new, much wider river course that is now visible from commercial flights approaching the Denver airport. Three people died and $30 million dollars of damage was done to property in and around Estes Park. In a strange twist of jus ce, responsibility for the dam transferred when RMNP was established in 1916. The Park compensated families of the flood vic ms and, in the a ermath, other small, aging dams in the Park were removed to avoid repe on of the disaster.

Looking at Longs Peak and Mount Meeker from the summit of Mummy Mountain.

Two hours later I'm standing on the summit of Mummy Mountain (13,425 .). The sun is up and my planned route is painfully obvious. The summits of Hagues, Fairchild and Ypsilon are visible as the range wraps to the south toward Fall River and Trail Ridge. The high points of Chiquita and Chapin are hard to pick out, perhaps hidden behind Ypsilon. I have a long way to go, much of the way on terrain without trails. Best to think about it in small increments to avoid feeling overwhelmed. The spectacular view of Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker, miles to the south, is comfor ng.

This mul -peak traversing game is played most skillfully when one loses as li le eleva on as possible between successive high points. Compromises between direct lines and difficulty of terrain define efficiency and reflect one's fitness and experience. I used to be pre y good at traveling up and down steep talus at high speed and I'll be carefully drawing upon that aging muscle memory all day. A serious injury this far from home would be a big problem.

I reach the 13,560 foot summit of Hagues Peak an hour

Looking east at Mummy Mountain with Lawn Lake below from the Hagues Peak summit

later a er descending on easy tundra from Mummy then climbing the long, boulder-covered east ridge.

This is the high point of the range. I look back to the summit of Mummy and north to Rowe Peak.

Considered by many to be one of the Mummy Range peaks, the Rowe summit requires an out-and-back detour I've always thought of as an unaesthe c varia on of this “Mummy Marathon”. I decide against it again today and relax for a few minutes near the Park's radio antenna to enjoy a snack.

Descent of the steep south ridge of Hagues is the technical crux of this tour, star ng with some downclimbing of 4th and lower 5th class terrain. With careful route finding this can probably be avoided. But I've done it before. It's good, solid rock and the slower movement is a nice change from running down tundra and leaping across unstable boulders.

At many points along this descent to the HagueFairchild saddle there are impressive views of the blackened path of last year's Cameron Peak fire that

Taking a break on the summit of Hagues Peak

entered RMNP from the northwest. A er jumping across tundra, the fire marched east, throwing off a branch that threatened the village of Glen Haven, east of Estes Park. Everyday for a week I watched the ba le from the summit of Crosier Mountain; giant helicopters dropping water while persistent winds pushed flames towards homes and businesses.

Today, halfway through this dry summer, I'm lucky to find water running from the small, remaining snowfields along my route. These happy li le 6-inch wide streams bounce down the tundra and allow me to fill my small, filtering water bo le. I try to tank up at every opportunity, taking short breaks to wash down snacks with the cold, clear, good-tas ng snowmelt.

The saddle between Hagues Peak and Fairchild Mountain

I greet three people who are descending from the Fairchild summit, returning to their camp at Lawn Lake.

These are the first hikers I've met today and I'm caught off guard. It's easy to get used to the solitude. Passing over the summit of Fairchild (13,502 .) and angling across the long, unstable talus slope on its south side, I won't see another human for a while.

On the summit of Fairchild, with a view of Ypsilon Mountain

Looking back on the south ridge of Hague Peak

Reaching Mt. Ypsilon's summit (13,514 .) I pause to take in the stunning view to the east. Spectacle Lakes are framed by Mt. Ypsilon's Blitzen and Donner Ridges, the former being a popular and classic alpine rock climb. The Spectacle Lakes cirque is nearly as

Map courtesy of NPS; areas in yellow remain closed due to severe fire damage from the Cameron Peak Fire (top yellow patch) and the Thompson Zone of the East Troublesome Fire (lower patch).

View of the path of the Cameron Peak Fire as it entered the northeast corner of Rocky, from Hagues Peak

A hungry marmot on the summit of Chapin

impressive as the Chasm Lake valley below Longs Peak.

It feels more remote and is much less visited.

I'm back on a trail, now, descending from Ypsilon to the last of the summits, Mts. Chiquita and Chapin. Before leaving Chapin's high point I sit down to have a snack, fending off two aggressive marmots that feel en tled to a por on of my meal.

My last steep descent of the day starts down Mt. Chapin's east ridge then turns to the south side, dropping a clean 2,000 ver cal feet to the Fall River Road. On this slope, many years ago, I saw my first mountain lion in the wild. At the me I decided that such rare sigh ng must be some kind of cosmic reward for my efforts. It was inspiring and energizing and gave me a mo va ng boost when I needed it.

This side of Mt. Chapin faces the sun and tends to avalanche frequently in late winter and early spring a er heavy snowfall. It's pre y easy to see why. It is the steepest tundra surface I've ever seen in RMNP. As I zigzag down across loose gravel and grass, my feet lose

Looking down the east ridge of Chapin toward Estes Park

their grip frequently. At those moments I lean to the side, put one hand on the slope, re-establish balance for a split second and con nue. With a successful strategy this otherwise scary slope becomes pure fun. I reach the trees and discover a very old, unmaintained trail, discon nuous but unmistakable, switchbacking down toward the Fall River. Passing the occasional, collapsed cairn I make my way through otherwise dense forest to pop out on the dirt road about 5 miles above the Lawn Lake trailhead.

Now, it's just a long plod back to town. Cars pass me on their way up the one-way, Fall River Road. Friendly occupants roll down their windows to ask if I need anything or just to cheer me on. Touching.

Spontaneous kindness s ll exists. Back to the Roaring River where it flows through the alluvial fan remnant of the Lawn Lake flood, I scoop my last bo les of water, enough to get back to town on this hot a ernoon.

Below Horseshoe Park I leave Hwy 34 near the Fall River Entrance and veer through Aspen Glen Campground to the North Deer Mtn. trail, a much more peaceful way to end another glorious day in RMNP.

It has taken me a lot longer to do this trip than it did 45 years ago and it feels harder; weak, sore legs, dehydrated in spite of my best efforts and finishing the last mile to Bond Park in a zombie-like state. I'm slightly nauseated which is OK because my food ran out long ago and I couldn't eat anyway.

Back at our house, I stumble through the door and collapse on the floor. My wife, Annie, shakes her head and poses a version of a now-familiar ques on: “So, this is what you STILL do for fun?”

The valley between Chapin and Chiquita

Chris Reveley has spent 50 years climbing and doing endurance sports; and, thirty years learning and prac cing medicine. “Now I’m a Happy House Husband with hobbies,” he said.

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Lake of Glass & Sky Pond

The Miller Family; from le : Jason, JoAnne, and Sadie

story and photos by Jason Miller This hike is definitely a special one. You traverse up and through lush mountains, aspen groves and even climb up an awesome waterfall. This hike is another one of those that you should be prepared for and do a li le research. This hike is 4.4 miles one way and also 1,720 ver cal feet.

When hiking this trail it is best to get up and go. Get some breakfast and go to the park before 6 a.m. to beat the crowds. Glacier Basin Parking area is the best spot to start but you can also access this trail from Bear Lake trailhead if Glacier Basin happens to be full. If parking at Bear Lake, it will add on an addi onal .6 mile each way. We found ample parking at Glacier Basin at approximately 4:45 a.m. We gathered all of our gear (water, food, snacks, headlamp and layers of clothing) from the car and hit the trail. I have hiked this first Photo: I startedbut myhave trip por onSunrise of the over trail Estes mul Park ple when mes before

never started it in the dark. Headlamps on and HERE WE GO! When hiking this trail in the winter, you may want to use cramp-ons and hiking s cks. I have seen

Mama elk has the right of way!

the snow up over the bridges and railings crossing the rivers. The trails are marked and maintained very well in all of the RMNP system. A er hiking in for 10 minutes we came to a junc on. Turn right to Bear Lake Parking area or turn le to Alberta Falls, Loch Vale, Lake of Glass and Sky Pond. We turned le and almost instantly we were walking through a beau ful grove of aspen.

Another 15 minutes up the trail and we came to Alberta Falls. I could hear the magnificent waterfalls but definitely couldn't see them. I took a couple pictures just to see if they turned out and also to get a me stamp. At an hour into the hike we came to another junc on in the trail which is marked very well. The sign says, .8 miles to Loch Vale and 2.7 miles to Sky Pond.

Wow. Keep going. Are the rocks ge ng bigger and harder to traverse? No, it's just my legs ge ng heavy.

2.7 miles more.

By 5:45 a.m. the sun was rising and there was no longer a need for headlamps. The river and canyons leading up to Loch Vale are incredible. Lush green grass and

rivers with miniature waterfalls as far as the eye can see. Ge ng to Loch Vale was a great accomplishment.

It is a beau ful mountain lake surrounded by rolling hills covered with evergreens. There is a spur of the trail that takes you around the lake to the le for some spectacular views.

The actual trail to Sky Pond goes to the right but we had to wait a few minutes for a Momma Elk to cross our path. Once ge ng back on the trail the landscape changes to marshy land with hundreds of different river tributaries. Logs cut in half and laid flat was our pathway through the green landscape. Wow, look, it's the momma elk with her baby. They are running through the pastures from lake to lake.

They posed for us like it was meant to be a selfie.

Please do not feed the wildlife. Keep them wild. Off in the distance we can see magnificent waterfalls. That must be Timberline Falls. 30 minutes later we arrived at a spot where we had to scramble up some rocks. It was a li le slippery. Ge ng up to the falls was an incredible feeling. Standing underneath the mist was

Wild raspberries along the trail

Timberline Falls

like being in a movie. I had no idea there were falls like this in the park. At this point one might need to muster up some courage to climb the stretch of around 280 ver cal feet. This is treacherous so take your me and be sure footed. When arriving at the top you can see Loch Vale over a mile away in the distance. Lake of Glass is breathtaking and virtually like a mirror as are most of the lakes in RMNP are.

The wind was calm and we relaxed for a few minutes.

On the way to Sky Pond, organized boulders in a field of rocks made for a great pathway picture moment. We can see Sky Pond, our des na on. Lots of snow up the mountainsides provide for great water runoff. Only 1/4 mile more and we were there. At an eleva on of 10,900 , Sky Pond is pre y windy.

Turning around and ge ng the 360 degree views took my breath away. Taylor and Powell Peaks along with the Cathedral Spires make this place pre y special. We once again took a few pictures and then began our retreat down the mountain. Lake of Glass was a great

Fireweed

stopping point for snacks since the wind wasn't so bad. Just like Longs Peak, the Bu Slide is Real. As you are going down the waterfalls, take your me and once again, be sure footed. It took us 3 hours to get there and 2.5 to get back. Expect to see a lot of people as you are coming down the trail. When

hiking this trail in the winter, you may want snow shoes or crampons. All in all, you can get this hike done in 1/2 day and might want to add on Andrews Glacier to extend it a li le. Please remember some rules of the trail as you are ge ng outside.

• Faster Hikers and People going uphill have the right of way • Help others on the trail

• Pack it In - Pack it Out • Stay on Trails - No Bushwacking • Do not feed or approach wildlife - Keep them Wild • When using restroom, be more than 100 away from water • Say Hello or a simple nod of the head is good to fellow hikers

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Jason Miller, 49, is a resident of Glen Haven and is married with two children. Before moving to area, he used to work as broker for Nestle USA and H.P. Hood milk company. Today, he is the owner of The Rus c Acre (vaca on rentals in Estes Park) and co-owner of Lightbrush Projec ons.

FEATURE PHOTO

The path of the Cameron Peak Fire into Rocky Mountain Na onal Park as seen from Hagues Peak Photo by Chris Reveley

PARK PEOPLE

Oliver W. Toll

Marys Lake today is much different than when it was a small pond, used as a campsite for traveling Arapaho hunters.

Photo by Cindy Elkins

by Cindy Elkins Ever wonder why there is a Mount Olympus in the middle of the USA near a protected body of land?

Remember the famous Mount Olympus with all the mythology and super power gods doing their thing?

Well, specula on be; let your imagina on roam to a me when light pollu on was nonexistent, roads were few and the skies over the plains and front range revealed the magnificent views that we love in their purest form. Silhoue ed clear horizons and storm filled peaks harbor crea on stories and magic. The original inhabitants of the happy hun ng grounds that now house millions of visitors and permanent residents along the front range, once encompassed the trails that Oliver W. Toll traversed while diligently recording what he could from his traveling companions. Come on into a slice of the history of the making of the Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and imagine what it was to hunt game within the deep forests and sacred grounds.

Now we follow strict regula ons, make sure to check

for trespassing and know that special places need protection. Our National Park Service protects and holds sacred places that could be overrun. Here is a short recap of a journey that helped create our Rocky.

Imagine embarking on a horseback service trip that would help preserve history and support the development of the Rocky Mountain National Park. In 1914, members of the Colorado Mountain Club were inspired to approach Arapaho Elders of the Wind River Reservation to come back to Colorado and help identify the original names of the peaks, creeks, and valleys. The intention of the Colorado Mountain Club was to persuade congress to create a National Park in the high peaks of Colorado. Harriet Vaille and Edna Hendie spearheaded the project and went searching for Arapaho Elders that would be willing to help. The project needed them for a voyage to record the Arapaho names and capture the importance of place connections that would be forgotten if not written down. Willing participants found, Harriet

Top Le : Shep Husted, Sherman Sage, Gun Griswold, Tom Crispin, Oliver Toll, and seated, David Hawkins

approached her 22-year-old cousin Oliver W. Toll to be the official ethnographer for the voyage. The group accepted the challenge to ride across the rugged mountains of Estes Park, Grand Lake, and what is now known as Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. On July 16, 1914 the two-week trip began star ng at Mary's Lake where a na ve camp was once located. Weathering the elements to support a project that would inspire genera ons, Toll and Shep Husted, a local backcountry guide, traveled with two Arapaho Elders named Sherman Sage and Gun Griswold, along with an interpreter Tom Crispin, who was part Arapaho. They shared their knowledge of the land and waterways remembered from childhood. In their youth Sage and Griswold had lived and traveled through the pris ne land with their families. They were able to share stories, insights and original names with the help of Crispin.

Language barriers and complica ons with cultural differences influenced the ability to capture informa on. In the Arapaho language several of the words mean different things depending on how and where they are used and this complicated the interpreta on. Griswold then age 73 and Sage age 63, kept up with the youthful Toll and did their best to remember the stories of their youth. Yet the trip was especially difficult on Griswold as they traversed the con nental divide four mes in two weeks. Mee ng locals along the way such as Peter Hondius, Enos Mills and staying with “Squeaky” Bob Wheeler at his ranch in Upper Beaver Meadows, the group completed the mission. Toll diligently recorded what he could of the names of landmarks and stories of Shoshone, Apache, and Arapaho ba le loca ons. His account of the

geography and history of the northern Colorado Rocky Mountains called Arapaho Names & Trails: A Report of a 1914 Pack Trip was published almost five decades a er the trip. It reads like a daily dairy and is available at the Rocky Mountain Conservancy and the RMNP visitor centers. In one sec on of the book Toll explains about how the trails that cross the divide are marked by placing rocks on a monument when he wrote, “The whole country was covered with Indian trails. In open parks, these trails would generally be very vague..., but over the mountains the trails were dis nct and occasionally marked by monuments. These piles of stones were on the average about four feet in diameter. ... As they passed, it was customary for everyone to put a rock on the monument,..."

Oliver Wolco Toll (1891-1981) lived to be 90 years old and served our country in World War I as a naval aviator and in World War II as a member of the prosecu ng team for the Nuremburg War Crimes. His

career as an a orney led him to work for several different government agencies and influenced by family and his trip across Colorado's high country, Toll led a life of service. He graduated from Williams College and Harvard Law School and eventually prac ced law in Denver, Colorado. Prior to returning to Colorado, Toll worked in Washington DC with the Department of Agriculture and the Federal Trade Commission. His accomplishments supported land preserva on and can be credited with helping to preserve our natural environment for genera ons.

The voyage into the backcountry supported the crea on of RMNP and strengthened the rela onship with the Arapaho Na on. Celebra ons for the 100 Year Anniversary of the trip were held. Recently a ceremonial acknowledgement from the Town of Estes Park honored that the lands in and around Estes Park were originally na ve owned. With the courage and insights of the Colorado Mountain Club, young Oliver W. Toll, and his companions: Sage, Griswold, Crispin, and Husted, a park was born and thankfully our park is much like it was before the progress of development.

Born in the mountains of West Virginia, Cindy Elkins has called Colorado home since 1981. As a professional ar st and teacher, hiking and the outdoors provide inspira on and keep her ac ve.

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ART IN ROCKY

Jay’s Knack for Glass

by Barb Boyer Buck Jay Grooters of Estes Park has deep connec ons to Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. He met his future wife, Fran McGraw, while working on the north boundary line as a ranger for Rocky. Up un l very recently, he and Fran lived in the house they built near the Park's boundary. And for the past 50 years, he has been crea ng beau ful pieces of stained-glass art, inspired by the nature all around him.

Jay is a Colorado na ve, born in Pueblo in 1945. His family moved first to Longmont and then Denver, where he graduated from high school. He has five years of educa on: two years at Morningside College in Iowa, two at the University of Utah, and one year at the University of Colorado. A er his studies, he joined the US Coast Guard for four years of ac ve and two years of inac ve service.

In 1971 while he was working as a Coast Guard recruiter in Salt Lake City, Jay took a stained-glass class.

“I found I had a knack for it,” he said, and has con nued to create stained-glass pieces on commission or for his home, reflec ng in his pieces his love for animals, birds, and flowers.

He and his wife ran the Alpine Trail Ridge Inn for forty years for the Hoerner family. Jay would make stainedglass pieces represen ng the beauty of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in the winter and sell them at the motel during summers.

“I sold a fair amount, and took orders, too. My prices were reasonable because I had a home studio so my costs were reasonable, too.

“A lot of my friends were into restoring cars, but I don't have an affinity for metal,” he said. “My medium is glass.”

Jay said that if you have the pa ence for jigsaw puzzles, this may be the ar orm for you. “It can be tedious, but I think it's kinda fun.”

In the early 2000s, Jay began crea ng liturgical pieces for churches, incorpora ng some of the iconic Rocky Mountain Na onal Park landmarks and features, such as Longs Peak and na ve columbines. He has created all the stained-glass windows for Our Lady of the Mountains Catholic Church in Estes Park and the numerous wildflower stained-glass pieces at the

Watch a demonstration of a stained-glass art creation by Jay Grooters

Allenspark Community Church and Mount Calvary Lutheran Church. Good Shephard of the Mountains Lutheran Church has a large piece and Longmont United Methodist Church has a beau ful rendi on of Jesus, holding a lamb surrounded by the landscape of Rocky.

His rendi on of Saint Michael slaying the dragon was installed on the west side of Our Lady of the Mountains Catholic Church, which creates drama c ligh ng with the se ng sun. It can be interpreted as fire from the heavens descending through the Archangel Michael to destroy the dragon itself. This effect lights up the aisles and the pulpit at various mes throughout sunset.

Jay has created countless pieces of art that has brought Rocky Mountain Na onal Park home to many people and organiza ons. A demonstra on of his technique is depicted in the video that accompanies this ar cle.

For more informa on on Jay Grooters work, visit h p://jaygrooters.com/

Installed at Longmont United Church

Carrying the Cross, one of the Sta ons of the Cross series

This window of Saint Michael slaying the dragon, is installed on the west wall of Our Ladies of the Mountains Catholic Church in Estes Park, creating dramatic lighting as the sun sets each evening.

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The Flam Rocky’s tiny owl

story and photos by Sco Rashid, Director of the Colorado Research and Rehabilita on Ins tute Theere is a small owl that commonly nests in the mountains of the west, o en right in people's backyards, yet most people have never seen nor heard of it.

This ny creature is the Flammulated Owl, o en called the Flam for short. It is the smallest North American owl with dark eyes. All of the other small owls in the country have yellow eyes. It is also the smallest North American Owl that hoots.

These birds arrive in the mountain west in April from their wintering grounds in Mexico. We rou nely find them in habitat comprised of ponderosa pine, Douglasfir, aspen, downed logs, tall grasses, junipers, and mul ple trees with cavi es for nes ng. Like the other small owls, flams nest in abandoned tree cavi es. They seem to prefer cavi es excavated by Northern Flickers.

Male Flammulated Owls arrive on their nes ng grounds and quickly find good habitat and a nes ng site that they hope their prospec ve mate will approve of.

Once a male has found a territory or reestablished his previous one, he will vocalize, a er dark, with a series of so hoots that seldom carry more than a few hundred yards. A male owl can be heard giving either single or doubled hoots, as the female then responds

with a so er higher-pitched single hoot.

Some research has found that Flammulated Owls can nest in relatively close proximity to one another, in what might be considered loose colonies, but we have not found that to be the case in and around Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). We have never found more than a single active nest in a given year.

The first documented nest of a Flammulated Owl in RMNP was in 2004. Since then active nests have been found about every three years or so.

This past summer, researchers found an active

Flammulated Owl nest in the park which was studied every few evenings until the owlets (young owls) le their nest for good. This particular nest was in a cavity that researchers had been looking at for years, in the hopes that either a flam or Northern Saw-whet would one day nest in it. This was the year that it happened.

Flammulated Owls are insectivorous, feeding on a wide variety of insects including moths, millipedes, beetles, caterpillars, and other flying insects.

While monitoring the flam nest this season, the researchers were able to get some absolutely extraordinary images of the owls with their prey.

The researchers would arrive at the nest site a few hours before dark, and set up their cameras to get images of the adult female as she looked out of her nest before dark.

The male would o en fly in and land on a branch of an aspen a few yards behind the nest and begin hooting before the female exited. The female would begin looking out of her nest cavity at about 8:45 p.m., then exit a bit before 9:00 p.m. She would o en be out of her nest for up to 15 minutes before reentering to stay with the nestlings. Then the male would begin delivering food.

A er the owlets were about a week old, the female began hunting along with the male. the researchers were able to document several items that the owls delivered to their nestlings. All of which were insects.

There was not a single vertebrate delivered. This suggests that Flammulated Owls are exclusively insectivorous.

Another interesting aspect of the owl's hunting technique is that each adult bird only carries a single item to their nestlings per food delivery. Unlike a woodpecker that o en delivers several items to its young with each delivery.

About a week before the owlets le the nest for the first time, they could be heard food begging from inside the cavity. On two evenings, the owlets could be heard calling from the nest cavity before dark.

Three nights before the young fledged, the female would remain outside the nest and only reenter to feed the nestlings. The researchers were there the evening the nestling fledged and were able to capture and band the fledglings. One of them simply walked up to each bird, grasped it by hand and placed a numbered aluminum leg band on each owl so that they might hopefully gain some insight into where the birds move to and how long they end up living.

Finding owls is not that hard, it simply takes knowing the species' habitat preference. Once you know that, then it is simply searching for that one nest cavity within the bird's territory that the birds are using that year.

Another interesting thing about finding these owls, is that when they are located, one also frequently will find Common Poorwills, as both species feed heavily upon moths and other large insects which are prevalent in that habitat and active a er dark.

Ar st, researcher, bird rehabilitator, author, and director of a nonprofit are only a few things that describe Sco Rashid.

Sco has been pain ng, illustra ng and wri ng about birds for over 30 years. In 2011, Sco created the Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilita on Ins tute in Estes Park.

In 2019, Sco located and documented the first Boreal Owl nest in the history of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in Colorado.

Sco has wri en and published five books and several papers on a variety of avian species. More informa on available on his website: h p://www.carriep.org/ Click here to return to table of contents

Coming next month in

HIKE ROCKY online magazine - Twin Sisters is the trail of the month - Trail Running up Longs Peak! Chris Reveley takes us on another high-country adventure.

- Equipment specialist Murray Selleck will recommend maps to take with you into the backcountry - Autumn Foliage - Marlene Borneman explains the science behind the glorious color change - A deep dive into the various med-entry programs on federal lands - Growing up McGraw - Fran Grooters provides her first installment of her memoir of growing up at McGraw Ranch.

- And so much more!

Photos by Barb Boyer Buck