Ski tracks in Rocky

Story and photos by Marlene Borneman

Winter is a special season in Rocky Mountain National Park and there's no better way to experience it than on a pair of skis! Rocky offers two styles of skiing: backcountry skiing which requires technical skills and equipment for steep off-trail terrain in high elevations; and, the more classic tradional cross-country skiing on ungroomed trails.

The author skiing in the 1970s in RMNP

I'm here to tell you about cross-country skiing in Rocky.

When you hear “cross-country skiing,” you may think of cross-country touring skiing on groomed trails at resorts. Cross-country touring skis are longer and narrower for these types of smooth and groomed trials.

The author's various pairs of cross-country skies

But first-class cross-country skiing can be found in Rocky on ungroomed trails.

Here is an overview of equipment needed: skis, boots and poles. Pretty simple. I have a pair of 1970's waxable hickory wood skis without metal edges but I can say I'm happy to no longer ski on them. I also have a pair of very long waxless, Fischer skis which I'm also very happy no longer to be using.

I now ski on shorter Rossignol waxless skis that have metal edges with a side-cut shape making for superior maneuverability, especially on turns. The metal edges are more suitable for skiing Rocky when gripping the steeper terrain, making turns, and in icy conditions.

Waxless skis have scales on the bottom along the midsection of the ski. These scales enable you to climb moderate slopes without slipping while providing the right glide on the downhill. Waxable skis use special waxes to apply to the bottoms of the ski depending on snow conditions.

Your boots need to match the bindings on your skis.

Your weight and height are important considerations when purchasing skis. Your weight will determine the camber of the ski that evenly distributes your weight over the ski and helps you “float” across the snow. Camber refers to the bow of the ski.

There are several types of boots depending on the binding you choose. I have a simple three-pin binding and compatible boots. You will want a pair of poles adjusted to your height.

A good choice for all around use are aluminum poles with large baskets and straps to help support your wrists for pushing off, while keeping a gentle grip.

Make sure they fit from the ground up to the armpits. Fancier telescoping poles are a good alternative length you adjust the height for various terrains. I still have a pair of bamboo poles from the 70's to go with my hickory wooden skis.

Be sure to buy from a reputable ski/sports shop to help get the right equipment for you. If cross-country skiing is a new experience, I recommend renting skis and taking lessons.

Marlene Borneman skiing from the Glacier Gorge TH.

Suitable clothing for cross-country skiing includes several layers, since you will be generating a lot of body heat from the strenuous acvity. I recommend a warm, light wool or synthetic base layer, a fleece or light wool top, a down jacket, a waterproof/wind proof hard shell jacket with a hood, mittens, wool hat, wool liner socks and outer socks. For bottoms, a base layer that's fleece lined and/or fleece with a hard outer shell made out of stretchy material to allow movement.

You will find you may be stopping to take off layers as you move; and, will be putting layers on when you are at a stop.

Gaiters are made of waterproof breathable material to keep snow out of your boots and give overall protection against moisture on your lower legs, keeping you dry and warm. Be sure to take a pack with extra clothing, food, water, and the ten essenals. own are my Woolrich knickers and socks. The best part is - they sll fit!

For a great ski adventure in Rocky, I recommend Endovalley for the beginner skier.

Park at the west Alluvial Fan lot, past the Lawn Lake trailhead. Old Fall River Road to Endovalley is closed here during the winter and when it is snowpacked leaves you an easygoing place to practice on level and open ground.

Another excellent road adventure for families and beginners is beyond Rainbow Curve where Trail Ridge Road is closed for the winter.

The higher elevation usually guarantees snowpack. It is open and fairly level terrain. In the winter, the road closes before Trail Ridge Road is closed for the winter months also making an excellent spot to cross-country ski especially for families and beginners.

Cross-country skiing in the Sprague Lake area.

Sprague Lake is a reliable trail for beginners and intermediate skiers.

The trail south-west of the lake takes you 2.6 miles one-way to the Glacier Gorge Junction. Or try heading to Glacier Basin Campground, or take a turn to the west for a short ski to the Storm Pass Trailhead and loop back to the Sprague Lake parking lot.

I enjoy starts at Bear Lake where several choices await the intermediate skier.

Nymph and Dream Lakes are fun. From Nymph Lake you can take the trail up the drainage to Dream Lake where it is open and usually more snow than trying to ski the summer trail, with mileage of 4 miles round trip.

First, you head in the opposite direction from Nymph Lake heading to the north side of Bear Lake. Ski up the Flattop Trail to the junction for Bierstadt Lake. It is a short climb to the top of the moraine and from there, downhill with tight turns until the next trail junction. Follow the signs kicking and gliding down to the lake. Once at the lake you can ski another mile around the lake. If it is not windy, make a memorable day of it by breaking for a winter picnic on the frozen shore.

On the way to Bierstadt Lake; orange markers on the trees tell you where the trail is.

A different destination along the Flattop Trail is Lake Helene

3.2 miles one-way. At the first junction for Bierstadt Lake take a left, signed Flattop Mountain. This trail rises moderately for the first half mile then levels out until the next trail junction marked as Odessa Lake.

Head north on this trail through pine forest reaching a vast meadow along the north side of Flattop Mountain. You may see backcountry skiers up high making wide turns on the slope. Cross the meadow and head back into the trees then cross a steeper hillside. You will soon come to Lake Helene.

The Wild Basin area also makes for pleasant ski outings.

The road is closed for a mile before the trailheads start, so it's suitable for beginner skiers to practice on a level road.

Also, try the Allenspark trailhead skiing to Finch Lake.

This is an intermediate to advanced ski trail.

For more detailed information on the trails described visit a local mountain sports shop in Estes Park or stop in the Wilderness Office at RMNP. Or, check out the trail descriptions on www.RockyMountainDayHikes.com

It is a good idea to check on current weather and trail conditions as they can rapidly change in Rocky.

Marlene has been photographing Colorado's wildflowers while on her hiking and climbing adventures since 1979. Marlene has climbed Colorado's 54 14ers and the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky. She is the author of he is the author of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed. and The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers, published by . She has also created the CMC Press “Match the seeds to the flowers” piece for this issue of HIKE ROCKY.