Land, Community, and Resilience + A Journey of Service and Discovery + Leaving No Corner of Taitung Unexplored + A Deep Dive into Taitung’s Cultural Heritage 與台東互相滋養
Peter Morehead - In the earthen house they built
issuu - Hello Taitung
(All editions of the magazine are available online at issuu)
Nguyen Thuy Trinh
Asher Leiss
Published by Taitung County Government
Publisher \ April Yao 饒慶鈴 Editor-in-Chief \ Su-Chin Lee 李素琴 Managing Editor \ Steven Crook
Editorial Team \ Chloe Lo 羅淑琴 Jasmine Lin 林宛靚 Connie Wu
Nurturing is central to human existence. Those of us who become parents spend several years, thinking and/or worrying, almost 24/7, how to raise our children.
When we’re very young, we thrive thanks to the nurturing care of our mothers and fathers and others around us. At the same time, without knowing it, we nurture ourselves, by seeking sensations that make us happy, experiences that stimulate our minds, and foods that help our bodies grow.
As we become older, this self-nurturing becomes a conscious effort. At school and at work, we try to develop the skills, knowledge, and networks that can bring career success. Most of us endeavor to be popular. At some point, however, we realize that helping others is a powerful way to help ourselves.
By Steven Crook
As the American educator Booker T. Washington put it, “If you want to lift yourself up, lift up someone else.”
In the ninth issue of Hello Taitung, as in previous editions, we present the stories of four outsiders who’ve made Taitung their home. And rather than raising kids, they're all deeply engaged in — if we define “nurturing” broadly — work that’s of great importance to others.
Peter Morehead and his wife Hui-I run Earth Passengers Permaculture LearningCenter, a place where they share what they know about sustainability. Cultivating Plants and trees
that provide food while maintaining the health of the local ecosystem,the couple have been demonstrating to like-minded individuals from across the world,as well as to their neighbors, how we can build resilience in the face of an increasingly unstable climate.
After serving as a nun in her native Vietnam, Sister Nguyen Thuy Trinh was dispatched by her order to Taiwan. Once she’d overcome the language barrier, she was assigned to Taitung, where fresh challenges awaited. She had to learn how to drive and how to communicate with senior citizens who speak languages other than Mandarin Chinese. Several years on, she cherishes and is cherished by those she helps.
Over the past few decades, thanks to more leisure time and changing attitudes, Taiwanese have embraced the Great Outdoors. Among those propelling this trend is Asher Leiss, a Taitung resident since 2023. As YouTuber Xiaofei, Asher has introduced his 230,000-plus subscribers to the natural splendor that can be found in Taiwan’s little known corners. He’s lived in multiple places around Taiwan, but having purchased a house in Taitung and brought his father to live with him, it’s clear he expects to be here for years to come.
In addition to nurturing the young minds sitting in front of him in his classroom atNational Taitung University, Valdis Gauss works on developing knowledge about facets of indigenous culture and heritage. His original and insightful scholarship on
Austronesian iconography has reached specialists in distant countries. He’s unlikely to meet all of these people in real life, but, thanks to online communication, it’s possible nowadays to share and cultivate interests over vast distances. This is one reason why Taitung — long regarded by people in other parts of the island as a backwater, albeit a beautiful one — has begun positioning itself as a base for digital nomads.
Hello Taitung is now in its fifth year of publication, but we’re still attracting brand new readers. If you’re one of them, and you’re wondering why, out of the approximately 210,000 people who live in Taitung, we’re highlighting four arrivals from overseas, it's because the Taitung County Government (which supports this magazine) understands that it’s in a competition.
Just as people compete in the jobs market, and countries vie for trade opportunities and political influence, many local governments have come to realize that they need to promote themselves beyond the nation’s borders. Taitung lacks some of the prerequisites for first-world affluence. It doesn’t have a science-based industrial park and it’s not connected to the high-speed railway. But it does have an exceptional natural environment, a unique and diverse population, and — we’ve said this before —the physical, social, and inner spaces in which people can express themselves and accomplish personal goals.
If you’re originally from elsewhere but have made Taitung your long-term home, we'd love to hear from you. In fact, we value feedback of any kind. Whether you’ve got a great idea for a future theme or you just want to pay us a compliment, drop us a line or post a comment on the Hello Taitung Facebook page.
NURTURE IN TAITUNG
Visiting Taitung is one thing. Moving there is quite another. Uprooting yourself is said to be among the most stressful episodes in a person’s life, even in the best circumstances. Relocating to Taitung brings additional challenges, such as finding a job. Yet for the right kind of person, nowhere in the world is better. In this issue of Hello Taitung, four such individuals explain, in their own words, how they came to be here and how they “nurture” others. Rather than retreat into self-sufficient homesteading, Peter and his wife opted to teach people how to live in harmony with the surrounding ecosystem. Sister Nguyen Thuy Trinh has dedicated her life to serving the disadvantaged. Asher encourages people to enjoy nature while respecting it. Valdis is a diligent educator driven by curiosity. Perhaps you’re the type of person who’d thrive in Taitung. Consider this your invitation!
By Peter Morehead
Land, Community, and Resilience
DONGHE
My journey to Taitung has been part of a personal quest for a deeper connection with the land, community, and a place where I would be needed. Originally from the Great Lakes area of North America, I first arrived in Taiwan for a semester abroad program in 1990.
After my classmates left, I stayed on for the summer to explore the island on foot. During a two-month walk down the east coast from Taipei to Kenting, I soon fell in love with Taiwan and was eager to learn Mandarin so I could understand this place and its diverse peoples on a deeper level. I soon came back on a scholarship for a year in Taipei, after which I sought out Tainan for its language courses and less obstructed view of the sky than Taipei. On weekends, I’d try to see how far I could hitchhike or bus into the mountains or the east coast. During these first few years in Taiwan, Taitung always held a place in my heart and I dreamed of living there.
If you dream enough in one direction, things may tend to fall into place eventually. I met my wife Hui-I, at a Puyuma harvest festival in Taitung, and began hanging out with Taitung friends. We shared a common dream with some of these friends to find land for starting our own homesteads between the ocean and mountains. After years of searching, we finally found an ideal piece of land between Xingchang and Dulan, in the area known in the Amis language as Gadangdang, and spent all our money on it.
Buying land isn’t for everyone, but for us this was not only a personal investment, but also an investment in our career as our dream has always been to design and create an oasis of food and a classroom for helping others learn permaculture design — a whole systems design process that aims to satisfy the needs of both the ecology and human livelihoods.
Starting in 2000 we began practicing and teaching permaculture in Taipei, but eventually found that we needed to sink roots into actual ground in order to take our life and courses to the next level. We had (and still have!) much to learn about how to live on the land and are forever indebted to the Amis – the original inhabitants of this area – for protecting and nourishing this land over hundreds of years.
The Amis land ethic is one we strive to learn from; before the modern world collided
Peter with one of his geese
with this land, the Amis had already developed permaculture, living continuously from the perennial gifts of the land, recognizing the limits of ecological resources, and enhancing biodiversity through the mere act of living a carefully thoughtout local land-based culture.
From a permaculture perspective, once you’re familiar with ecological principles it isn’t hard to realign to such a mindset and way of life. I often explain to visitors how immensely satisfying it is to know that every time I take a shower the greywater that goes down the drain is directly sucked up by a banana plant just meters away, soon to be transformed into another deliciously sweet fruit. In essence I’m consuming my own waste; but in more complex terms I’m a participating member in an intricate network of living creatures that live around our home. This kind of ecological cycle is an example of what Hui-I and I teach and practice at our home, Earth Passengers Permaculture Learning Center.
I sometimes joke with my students that since moving here, I feel like the proverbial frog in a well who only knows about his own local conditions. This is partly because I’m fascinated that there’s so much to learn about one piece of land and the endless ways it can be designed to provide for both human needs and the larger needs of the
ecosystem. Also, for the last decade we have been super-engaged in building our learning center, planting and maintaining the gardens and food forest, and then trying to find the time to just sit back, enjoy our progress, and take it all in. For years, I’ve been confining most of my activities to about a kilometer radius and still somehow find new secrets hidden in this area every year. Relocalization is very important to us in trying to decrease our ecological footprint, reduce our dependence on unsustainable mainstream systems, and increase our resilience.
However, in the process of staying local, we have also found a world of wonder in working with our neighbors to build community. First, some of our course participants are attracted to Taitung and have already been looking for ways to move here. Life is easier for both them and us as this network of like-minded people continues to grow and we find ways to share skills and resources. One of our favorite activities is potluck dinners with neighbors. In the past we organized with our fellow potluckers a skill-exchange system whereby each person takes a turn to teach all the others a skill. From this activity we eventually decided to start up a local market, which occurs a few times per year at Xinglong Elementary School ( 東河鄉興
Sharingexpertisewithguests
Getting in touch with nature
Inspired by the local goods and services that our neighbors provide, working with a local community development organization and backed by the National Development Council, we launched a local community currency called “Mibi” (from the Amis word “Mipaliw,” meaning mutual aid). This is a way to encourage more grassroots transactions and keep money flowing locally rather than always ending up in the pockets of chain-store billionaires. Certain communities around Taitung County are conducive to these kinds of local actions as people are close enough to interact, yet sufficiently distant from larger service centers to realize the commonsense of supporting local products and services.
One of the most encouraging signs that we’re working in the right direction is that we see more and more Taitung residents attend our courses. Some are interested in redesigning their land, school, business, or residence to be more selfreliant in terms of water, energy, food, and disaster prevention. As environmental and social conditions become harsher and less predictable, more people are becoming interested in bolstering their resilience. Some neighbors have noticed that the learning center has been able to function through the extreme damage caused by the last two major typhoons that passed directly through our area these last two years. While shops and residences in the surrounding area went without water and electricity for days, we were able to
immediately provide basic services to our students, who were relieved to be able to use our composting toilet, wash their hands with water from our rainwater tanks, get home-cooked meals from our wood-fired kitchen, and charge their devices on our photovoltaic system. For them our classroom was a comforting refuge away from the chaos of the village.
One last thing I’d like to mention about the benefits of Taitung has to do with one of the greatest milestones in our career: the hosting of the 15th International Permaculture Convergence in December 2024. Dozens of dedicated volunteers have been working hard with us for the last few years preparing for this major event, and we were honored to receive support from the Taromak community and the Taitung County Government. These organizations were eager to provide assistance and resources to make our event a success.
Over 300 international participants from 35 countries were impressed at the vibrancy of Taiwan’s indigenous people and the perspective that Taitung brings to Taiwan and the world at large, mainly owing to its cultural diversity, universal hospitality, and relatively unspoiled natural resources. Many said that, in their minds, this event helped put Taiwan on the world map. Looking back at the success of this six-week-long event, we can wholeheartedly say we made the right choice by holding it in Taitung!
PETER MOREHEAD'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Chengyo Hardware Store 承佑百貨五金
This excellent hardware store is well known in the area and worth recommending to newcomers. If you find yourself halfway between Chenggong and Taitung City, needing some hardware or tools, consider going north to Chengyo Hardware Store. An added bonus for some international visitors is that the shop owner speaks fluent Spanish after living in Argentina for several years.
8:00-17:30 (Sun. off)
+886-89855267
No. 65-5, Datong Rd., Chenggong Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Litai Blacksmith 利泰鐵店
If you’re looking for a souvenir from Taitung, consider supporting one of the few blacksmiths still working in Taiwan by buying a traditional knife. This highly skilled craftsman makes a range of land management tools and specialized fishing hooks, and is happy to produce one-of-a-kind tools according to your specifications. Most of Taitung’s knife artists have their blades fashioned here.
8:00-17:30
+886-89896527
No. 173, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Dongxing Auto Repair 東興汽車
One of the area’s best mechanics is located just south of Donghe’s Xingchang Village. While several places are able to repair scooters, Dongxing is adept at fixing almost anything you might give them, even small machines like our woodchipper. They’re also helpful to locals by lending out battery chargers or towing vehicles stuck in the mud.
8:30-17:30 (Sun. off)
+886-89530192
No. 25-2, Nanbali, Donghe Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Xinxing Bike Store 新興自行車
Need to repair a bike or buy a used bike? Consider Xinxing Bike Store, which excels at quickly fixing up old bikes. The owner also sells used bikes for very reasonable prices. Biking is an inexpensive, enjoyable, and eco-friendly way to get a feel for Taitung, and before leaving you could donate the bike to a guesthouse or to Earth Passengers for our students to use.
8:00-20:00
+886-966603580
248 Zhongzheng Road, Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
A Journey of Service and Discovery
By Nguyen Thuy Trinh
Vietnamese
10 years in Taiwan
8 years in Taitung
Tôi là một nữ tu đến từ Việt Nam, tên tôi là Nguyễn
Thuỳ Trinh, thuộc Tu Hội Nữ Tử Bác Ái Thánh
Vinh Sơn. Năm 2014, tôi được sai đến Đài Loan để phục vụ. Khi mới đến, tôi không biết một chữ tiếng
Trung nào, đã trải qua nhiều thử thách về ngôn ngữ và văn hóa, nhưng nhờ đức tin và sự nỗ lực, tôi dần vượt qua khó khăn và thích nghi với cuộc sống nơi đây.
Từ việc dạy trẻ nhỏ, tôi chuyển sang chăm sóc người cao tuổi và học được sự kiên nhẫn cùng lắng nghe. Để hỗ trợ con em các gia đình đa văn hóa học tiếng Việt, tôi từng phối hợp với các nữ tu khác và sinh viên Việt Nam tổ chức các lớp dạy tiếng mẹ
đẻ, và hy vọng tương lai Đài Đông sẽ có thêm nhiều nguồn tài nguyên học tiếng Việt và văn hóa Việt.
Các tổ chức phi lợi nhuận như Tu Hội chúng tôi có tính linh động theo thời đại , việc gì người khác chưa làm thì chúng tôi làm để đáp ứng nhu cầu xã hội – đó chính là sứ mệnh của Tu Hội chúng tôi là việc “Phục vụ Người Nghèo”. “ 服務窮人 ”
Hiện tại, Đài Đông đã trở thành ngôi nhà trong tim tôi. Chỉ cần nơi đây còn cần tôi, tôi sẽ tiếp tục ở lại phục vụ.
Before I came here, I knew almost nothing about Taiwan. The few impressions I had were shaped by the stories I’d heard about the many Vietnamese women who’d married Taiwanese men and who now endured difficult lives.
When I arrived, I couldn't speak a word of Chinese. As a child, I didn't like the Chinese language because it looked so difficult. I never thought that one day I’d be living in a place where people speak Chinese!
My first day in Taiwan was October 10, 2014. It happened to be Taiwan's National Day, so I remember it very clearly. For two years, I studied Chinese in Taipei. When I first started learning, I was very anxious. I spoke and read very slowly, like a child. I thought to myself, “When will I be able to speak fluently? When will I be able to understand
Chinese?” I prayed to God in my heart: “God, since you sent me to serve in Taiwan, please give me strength and help me learn Chinese quickly so that I can be a good servant.”
He gave me great strength and helped me overcome my initial difficulties learning the language. In due course, I decided that Taiwan is a very good place. I found that among the Taiwanese there are many good people, and that among the foreign spouses here there are some individuals with bad intentions. This realization changed the one-sided understanding I’d had when I lived in Vietnam.
I’m a nun serving with the Daughters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul, a Catholic society founded in 1633 and nowadays active throughout the world. Our key mission is “serving the poor,” regardless of whether their poverty is economic or spiritual.
Even though members of my family have joined the clergy, and I’ve always been aware of the work done by priests and nuns, I didn’t originally plan to be a nun. I wanted to go to university. However, one of my uncles is a priest, and he thought I was suited to being a nun, so they encouraged me to give it a try.
With one of St Mary’s Health Farm’s goats
After experiencing the life of a nun for a week, I thought to myself: “I'll finish university, then become a nun.” However, my uncle urged me to become a nun right away, as during the training I’d learn what I needed to know.
I was 18 years old when I left home to begin my training. The senior nuns told me they needed people with early childhood education skills, so I studied that. Before being assigned to Taiwan, I worked in a kindergarten in Vĩnh Long province in southern Vietnam.
Many years later, I was sent to Taiwan, where the Daughters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul has service missions in Taipei, Tainan, Kaohsiung, Yilan, and Taitung. The Taitung mission was launched in 1975. In the early days, the nuns helped care for hospital patients. That’s now handled by professional nursing staff, so we’ve shifted to focusing on providing spiritual support to patients and their families.
We also conduct home visits so as to see what people need and to connect them with appropriate government or NGO services, such as home renovation or long-term care, in areas where these resources are lacking.
Our Taitung team consists of five nuns, of which I am the youngest and the only foreigner. I was sent here because there weren’t enough nuns in Taiwan and they’re all getting older. The other nuns in my team are all about 20 years older than me, and, to be honest, there’s a bit of a generation gap. However, I treat them as family, as my elders, and thanks to patience and listening we all get along.
As soon as I arrived in Taitung, I was told to learn to drive. I didn’t expect to face another challenge so soon after overcoming the language barrier, but I quickly understood that serving in this region requires driving, because some of the people we visit live in remote locations, and only by driving can we reach them.
Language remains an issue for me. Many elderly people here speak Taiwanese or an indigenous language, and using Mandarin Chinese isn’t a good way to communicate with them. But fortunately, most senior citizens are also very kind. After they’ve known me for a while, they know that I’m from Vietnam and they try to speak Chinese with me as much as possible. My colleagues and others are also very helpful, assisting me in my efforts to communicate with the elderly, and gradually language has become less of a problem.
Sitting down for an interview
Sharing cooking know-how with locals
In my work, I’ve transitioned from nurturing the very young to nurturing the very old. Sometimes the latter are like the former. They’re childlike and cute. When accompanying the elderly, I’ve learned that patience and listening are very important. Sometimes it isn’t about actively doing things for them or constantly asking questions, but about patiently listening to them. Everyone is different, and their needs are also different.
A typical day starts around 9 o'clock and I accompany the elderly to chat, play games, and do exercises. At noon, everyone eats and then takes a rest. Sometimes in the afternoon, from 2 to 4 o'clock, I continue to accompany them, but sometimes I go out for visits.
We serve and care for many people, and they aren’t all church members. Whether they’re foreign spouses or university students, they’re welcome to get to know us. Often one person brings another, seniors bring juniors, and foreign spouses who arrived in Taiwan earlier bring newcomers. Sometimes we cook and chat together, and sometimes I attend Vietnamese sisters’ weddings.
In the past, there were very few resources for those studying the Vietnamese language, so I worked with other nuns and Vietnamese students from National Taitung University to help the children of foreign spouses learn Vietnamese. Because they lack opportunities to practice, or their fathers’ families discourage it, few children from TaiwanVietnam marriages speak the language well. This leads to them being ridiculed for speaking Vietnamese poorly, which makes them even less willing to try. Many of these children aren’t able to independently communicate with their relatives in Vietnam and they’re not familiar with Vietnamese culture, which is actually a great pity.
中文摘要 Abstract
Nowadays, as a result of there being so many Taiwan-Vietnam marriages, the situation is much better in terms of official policies and what’s available through schools. I teach Vietnamese less often than before, yet I still hope there can be more resources in Taitung and society can be more openminded toward Vietnamese language and culture.
Because they’re constrained by regulations, the government isn’t always able to respond immediately when a fresh challenge arises, whether it’s providing care for senior citizens living alone or teaching Vietnamese. Nongovernment groups like the Daughters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul are sometimes one step ahead of the authorities, which you could say is the true meaning of a nurturing society.
Because it’s close to nature, Taitung is a lot like my hometown. Many households grow fruit, the air quality is very good, and it doesn’t rain often, which is much better than Taipei’s wet climate. I’m certainly happier in Taitung than in Taipei.
Thanks to advanced technology, it’s easy to stay in touch with my family. Because I left home at the age of 18, I’ve been independent for a long time, so now I don’t really miss my home. I go back to Vietnam about once every two years, and my uncle has asked me when I’ll return to Vietnam for good. I told him that now Taitung is my home, and I’ll leave only when my services are no longer needed.
Sister Nguyen introduces the garden
NGUYEN THUY TRINH'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
社團法人臺東縣外籍配偶協會
Tayni how Kitchen 待您好廚房
This restaurant is managed by the Taiwan chapter of AIC, an international network which fights poverty in more than 50 countries, in order to create employment opportunities for senior citizens. The name “Tayni how” is Amis for “welcome,” and the dishes served here apply contemporary cooking methods to wild greens gathered by trial elders. Tayni how is open to groups interested in enjoying Amis indigenous cuisine and learning about Amis culture.
Only accept group bookings (at least 3 days in advance)
+886-89222009
No. 28, Zhuhu Vil., Changbin Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
St. Mary's Health Club 聖母醫院健康會館
Affiliated with and very close to St Mary’s Hospital, this restaurant is part of the hospital’s efforts to promote a healthy lifestyle, because an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. For NT$250 per person, guests can enjoy a nutritious vegetarian buffet breakfast (7am to 9am) or lunch (11.30am to 1.30pm). Most of the dishes are Asian/Chinese-style but salads and handmade bread are also included. Come early or it’ll be slim pickings!
7:00-9:00, 11:30-13:30
+886-89345719
No. 77, Nanjing Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
The Taitung Foreign Spouse Association
社團法人臺東縣外籍配偶協會
This association exists to assist foreign spouses and their children to adapt to life in Taitung by helping individuals improve themselves. At the same time, it promotes a better understanding of spouses’ own cultures among local people, so as to build respect for multiculturalism. In addition to organizing various courses and activities, the group lends out Vietnamese-language books.
8:00-17:00 (Sat. & Sun. off)
+886-89320051
2F., No. 103, Zhongzheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Three Sisters Vietnamese Cuisine
The restaurant is run by three Vietnamese sisters who settled in Taitung after marrying Taiwanese men. Over the years, it has become famous for its fresh ingredients, refreshing flavors and home-like dining environment. The signature beef pho and seafood pho are particularly delicious, and the fried spring rolls are especially popular among young people.
11:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00
+886-89336123
No. 128, Zhongzheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Leaving No Corner of Taitung Unexplored
走遍台東每個角落
IBy Asher Leiss
admit that, when I first moved to Taitung City in 2023, I didn’t know much at all about the place. In the approximately ten years I’d spent in Taiwan by then, I’d been here many times before — but each time I was just passing through. I never stayed more than a night or two, and mostly I focused on the nature in the mountains surrounding the city.
I’m a rather independent person, so I can live anywhere. But when my dad moved to Taiwan two years ago, I had to find a place for him that had good air quality throughout the year, yet was suitable for someone who doesn’t ride a scooter. After considering many options, we settled on Taitung. Six months later we bought a house just outside the city center, and settled into our new life. Fighter jet trainers frequently fly over the city, so we chose a place that was about 3 km west of the city center. It was far enough away so there is no noise, but still close enough to be accessible on bicycle or with a local bus that runs every 30 minutes.
Initially I was worried that banking and shopping would be an issue in Taiwan’s smallest county capital, but it turns out that we have everything we need. There’s a branch of every major bank. Supermarkets and other chain stores are well represented, and there are many traditional markets. Taitung also has perhaps the greatest per-capita concentration of hardware stores on the island, and there’s even a movie theater.
Since moving here, I’ve never felt that I need to travel farther to fix my car, buy groceries, buy home supplies, or run errands than when I lived in Taoyuan or Kaohsiung. In most cases, I’ve found it even more convenient, as everything I need is within a small area.
One exception to this rule is nightlife. It’s no surprise that Taitung, with barely 100,000 inhabitants, doesn’t have many options to choose from, compared to Taiwan’s big cities. I’m not bothered by the lack of after-dark excitement, however, as typically I spend my weekends out in nature. Within a one-hour drive from the city, there are five wild hot springs that require little to no hiking, and six more that you can river trace to.
My favorite of these is Luye Hot Spring, because not only is it a great place to soak,but it also lies downstream from a beautiful canyon. My routine is to pump up a raft at the top of the canyon and raft downriver, passing more hot-spring outcrops along the way. Then after about 30 minutes of easy rafting (depending on the water level), just as the cold water is starting to get to us, we get to the main hot spring where big pools of hot water are waiting for us. It’s the perfect light adventure and one of the most popular tours I offer through my company, Xiaofei Packrafts.
Taitung
Leading people on these excursions is an opportunity to nurture both a love of the outdoors and the habits people must develop if they’re to safely enjoy the gifts of Mother Nature. Rafting is a dynamic sport which makes it inherently riskier (and more fun!) than many other outdoor sports. To mitigate this risk, we train first-timers on flat water before paddling in a fast river, so that they understand the basics of paddling and river dynamics, and can apply their new skills in the river. All equipment is provided, and everyone must wear a personal flotation device (PFD) when packrafting.
We also always wear shoes with good traction and toe protection while hiking in the river. And when rafting or river tracing where there is a risk of falling rocks, such as in canyons or along cliffs, helmets are a must.
Once a year, for a more intense adventure, instead of going down Luye River, I’ll hike up it. Some 11 kilometers upstream lies Taolin Hot Spring, one of Taiwan’s major wild hot springs. Water spurts out of the ground at about 80 degrees Celsius, but you can mix it with the river water to reach the desired temperature. Luye Creek is typically a brilliant blue in the winter and the views along the way are
magical. You’ll pass by several large waterfalls, including Mamahav Waterfall, and a very narrow canyon, before getting to Taolin Hot Spring, which takes about five hours. We always raft back, which is very exciting, and cuts the return trip time in half.
Fantastic hot springs in the area also include Lulu Hot Spring, the red marble-lined Kaiwong Canyon, Lisong Hot Spring (which is one of the most popular), and Jinlun Hot Spring, which is right by the side of the road. There are many others beside those, and I try to make a point of visiting as many as I can each winter.
Winter is also the best season for surfing, although I’m not much of a surfer myself. Rather, I prefer to go to the ocean in the summertime, when Taitung really shines. The weather warms up, the waves calm down, and the oceans become easily accessible for swimming and snorkeling. Hundreds of small coral reefs dot the shore from Shanyuan to Changbin, including all around Sanxiantai. Few tour operators cover this facet of the county, however, so to see the coral and fish, you’ll just have to swim out when the waves are small and take a look yourself. When there are no typhoons in the area, the best season is June to September.
Asher leads an expedition on one of Taitung's unspoiled creeks.
In nature, humans are so small — we should learn to respect it with humility.
I spend most of my time in mountain rivers. Clear, clean water flows through Mulberry Creek all year round, and there are many deep pools to jump into. Occasionally I’ll join friends to rappel down the many canyons that can be found in both the Central Mountain Range and the Coastal Mountain Range.
After the first typhoon of the year, the coastal rivers begin to flow again, and there are many extremely narrow canyons and spectacular waterfalls that are worth visiting. You can find maps to them, and much more, on hopout.com. tw, a website we created to encourage people to embark on their own adventures while respecting the principles of environmental protection and sustainable development. It’s a free resource containing detailed information about waterfalls, hot springs, dive spots, and other outdoor locations in Taiwan. There are maps to over 350 waterfalls, nearly 100 wild hot springs, and a couple hundred more places for hiking, snorkeling, and kayaking.
There are also detailed guides for how to mitigate risk while participating in outdoor sports, like by wearing proper protective equipment, and paying close attention to changes in weather and water levels.
What I most like about Taitung is the peace and quiet. I live slightly outside the city, so I don’t get traffic noise — or fighter jets flying over my house. In fact, I don’t hear much of anything, other than the birds, which sometimes fly in through a window. Then I have to run around the house trying to get them to fly back out again. The air smells fresh and clean, and my life is much more relaxed and stress-free than it was when I was living in bigger cities. There are trade-offs, to be sure, and your social life will be very different living in Taitung than it would be in Kaohsiung or Taipei, but different isn’t necessarily bad. And it’s nice to have a change. Overall I feel very comfortable.
Great adventures require the right equipment
Asher (left) and friend soak in one of the county’s hot springs
ASHER LEISS'S TAITUNG LIFE MAP
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye Guanshan
Chishang
National Museum of Prehistory 國立臺灣史前文化博物館
Anyone with an interest in Taiwan’s distant past will find there’s too much in this fascinating museum to take in on a single visit. In addition to information about the various prehistoric cultures that thrived on the island thousands of years ago, there are displays about the wild animals (among them rhinos, tigers, and crocodiles) thatoverlapped with Taiwan’s earliest human inhabitants.
9:00-17:00 (Mon. off)
+886-89381166
No. 1, Museum Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Kamisatu Treehouse 卡米莎度樹屋園區
This well known homestay is much more than a place to sleep amid beautiful surroundings. The indigenous owner can introduce local ecology and lead guests through a traditional hunting experience. There are also opportunities to prepare and eat food the Bunun way. In addition to the three-person treehouse room and a two-person room — both have their own bathrooms — Kamisatu has a camping ground.
Reservation required
+886-982771482
Hongye Vil., Yanping Township, Taitung County, Taiwan
Guanjie Auto Repair 冠傑汽車維修
When my Mitsubishi Delica sprang an oil leak right before a big trip, and I needed it repaired quickly, Guanjie Auto Repair was able to quickly obtain the necessary component, which isn’t always easy for old cars like mine. They got it repaired quickly and at a fair price, just in time for my around-the-island drive!
Kasa Café
9:00-17:00 (Sun. off)
+886-89237158
No. 6-2, Ln. 799, Zhengqi N. Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Nobody comes to Taitung for nightlife, but if you live here there’s a good chance you’ll end up in Kasa. This welcoming space has been around for 20-odd years. Decorated with natural wood and repurposed scraps of metal, is just what a local bar should be: Not too fancy and always relaxing. The prices are very reasonable, too!
19:00-2:00
+886-980085878
No. 102, Heping St., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
A Deep Dive into Taitung’s Cultural Heritage
深入探索台東文化遺產
Living alone in the paradise known as Taitung has given me opportunities to cultivate numerous beautiful possibilities. As a teacher, my primary focus is nurturing my students as they work to reach their goals. Outside of work, my hobbies include playing guitar and hiking at Liyu Mountain, stone carving, cooking, making furniture and jewelry, river tracing near the aboriginal community of Taromak, snorkeling at Fushan, cycling and running on the Taitung Mountain-Ocean Bikeway, and writing.
I was born and raised a mile and a half up a dirt road on an off-grid organic avocado ranch in Santa Barbara, California, and it was there that my connection to fresh air and nature was born and solidified. In many ways, Santa Barbara’s topography mirrors that of Taitung. In both places, mountains cascade into the sea under the watchful gaze of islands — the Channel Islands at Santa Barbara and Green and Orchid islands at Taitung. So when I relocated from Tokyo to Taiwan in 2008, I felt rather out of place in metropolitan Taichung.
Endeavor as I did, I couldn’t find Taichung’s air pollution, the general absence of nature, and super-fast pace of life agreeable. Later that same year, I completed my first round-the-island adventure and experienced the varied atmospheres of Taiwan’s cities and counties. I found beauty and intrigue everywhere I went, yet nowhere beckoned me nearly so much as Taitung with its verdant mountains and azure coast. After this epiphany, I made it my goal to move to Taitung.
By Valdis Gauss
TAITUNG
In addition to its superior air quality — a fact that’s proudly emblazoned across the Arrivals Exit at Taitung Airport — Taitung boasts everything a person requires. On the surface, the city offers every civic amenity anyone could need, such as transportation links, schools, hospitals, museums, supermarkets, beaches, and parks. And just beneath the surface, there’s a dazzling and thriving assortment of tribal cultures, the iconography of which adorns almost every neighborhood.
Stone art created by Valdis
Among the most ubiquitous examples of Austronesian iconography in Taitung City comes from the Tao/Yami tribe of Orchid Island (Lanyu). Known in the Bashiic Yami language as the matano-tatara (“eyes of the boat”), this icon can be found on public and private buildings, and on signage, roads, cars, scooters, shirts, and pretty much anywhere you can think of including payphones, charging stations, keyrings, and pencils. The mata-no-tatara depicts a small sun in front of a large sun and is a reference to the twin suns featured in the “Shooting the Sun” myth.
When I first relocated to Taitung in 2017, I had no idea what the mata-no-tatara was or what it represented. Likewise, I was oblivious to the cultural significance of other images that adorn the city: hundred-pace snake patterns, ceramic pots, animals, and humanoid figures. I made it my mission to understand what these images signify and found answers via my research into the Formosan mythology of Taiwan’s Austronesian tribes. Living in this environment where ancient myths are depicted ubiquitously across the cityscape has made Taitung the ideal place for me to do research and write.
I feel exceptionally lucky to have become an assistant professor at National Taitung University’s Department of English. The other faculty members and university employees welcomed me from day one and made me feel like an important part of the team. I teach classes related to tourism, business, the Cold War, and listening and speaking. Since many of our students go on to work in industries related to teaching, transportation, tourism and hospitality, or international business after graduation, I do everything I can to nurture them in ways that foster relevant skills. But teaching is a two-way street: My students inspire me to pursue self-improvement and to face challenges with an optimistic attitude, something I’ve witnessed them do successfully, even in the face of great adversity at times.
In addition to teaching, I dedicate a lot of time to researching and investigating the extent to which the sacred myths of Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes influence modern society. To this end, I write about Formosan mythology to highlight, celebrate, and promote the sacred and most ancient aboriginal myths and to give Englishlanguage readers access to Taiwan’s most exciting and unique oral traditions.
Enjoying the visual appeal of a colorful city Beach art with a stunning backdrop
I balance my time between writing and teaching indoors and taking advantage of the paradise that is Taitung’s outdoors. Just recently, for example, I visited a beach near Zhiben Wetlands. While there, I discovered that much of the coastal access road had been blanketed with sand by the autumn typhoons. This made the experience of visiting a place I’d been to many times before feel “new,” because everything had been rearranged by the storms. Experiences like this are common in Taitung. And even though Taitung City is small by Taiwan’s standards, there’s always something stimulating waiting around the next corner.
I do my utmost to visit different beaches and — even if it’s just for a few moments — I go to the shoreline every day. I often sketch drawings in the sand, balance stones, and absorb the sonic therapy that’s created by the waves as they lap the shore. The raucous ocean often fills the air with a delicious spray that accumulates on my lips during my beach walks. It tastes salty and vibrant.
My mom taught me how to cook at a young age and later I spent a year undergoing classical training in Santa Barbara City College’s culinary program. Later, I catered weddings and other events in California. In Taitung, I cook every day. As a chef, I’m always searching for delicious, healthy, and fresh ingredients. Fortunately, this corner of Taiwan has a number of vendors that offer fantastic locally grown produce, meat, and eggs. A typical dinner might include oven-roasted locally grown organic free-range chicken and a melody of sauteed organic vegetables over a bed of red quinoa (which Taitung’s Paiwan people call djulis) with a side of avocado. Knowing that everything on my dinner plate was grown within 30 minutes of where I live is exciting.
中文摘要 Abstract
After moving to Taitung, I became interested in making furniture such as tables, bookshelves, and benches. Also, fascinated by the various types of local stones, I developed an affinity for stone carving which I make into bowls, jewelry, and figurines that are sold at Varasa in Tiehua Music Village.
I rarely leave Taitung, but when I do, I can immediately feel the pace of life pick up. A trip to Taiwan’s western side never fails to induce a helter-skelter tempo that I can’t wait to shake off. It’s only when I return to Taitung that I feel everything slow down around me, and my soul finds peace once again.
Whether you’re a Taitung native or a new resident, I encourage you to put away all of your electronic devices, venture outdoors, and allow all five of your senses to drink in the glory of God’s creation here in Paradise. Hopefully you’ll find the peace that I’ve found here and give that peace a chance to nurture your soul.
Valdis enjoys opportunities to be creative
Haiduan
Yanping
Beinan
Jinfeng
Daren
Dawu
Taimali
Taitung City
Donghe
Luye
Guanshan
Chishang
Chenggong
Changbin
Liyu Mountain Baked Sweet Potato Vendor
Located at the intersection of Bo’ai Road and the Taitung Mountain-Ocean Bikeway, this super-friendly vendor operates almost every day of the week from 7:30 in the morning until 5 o’clock in the afternoon. She always has a warm smile on her face and is ready to strike up some small talk. Some people come here for breakfast, but personally I prefer to eat a hot sweet potato with my lunch. Because they’re charcoal roasted, the sweet potatoes have a distinctive taste you can’t beat!
7:30-17:00 (Sat. & Sun. off)
+886-973076601
No. 494, Bo'ai Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Liyu Mountain Fruit & Vegetable Vendor
Offering a combination of domestic and imported produce, this mom-and-pop business is an alternative to chain supermarkets and a great place to get healthy food downtown. Among my domestically-grown favorites from this shop are bananas, squash, and dragonfruit (pitaya). The selection of imported produce varies according to the season, but can include kiwi, cherries, and blueberries. This shop does most of its business in the mornings but is often open all day long.
till sold out
Varasa 法拉撒手作工坊
The name of this shop, which is located inside the TTStyle shipping container complex at Tiehua Village, means “stone” in the Puyuma language. This handicrafts workshop stocks postcards, clothing, and a vast assortment of artwork, including some of my own stone bowls. TTStyle is home to several interesting businesses and is always worth a close look.
10:00-22:00
+886-937644520
No. 105, Xinsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Taitung Organic Farm
Just across the road from the main entrance of National Taitung University’s Zhiben Campus on University Road, Taitung Organic Farm offers a variety of high-quality fresh vegetables that are prewashed, packaged, and kept refrigerated for maximum freshness. Depending on the season, some of their produce is best eaten raw in salads. The kindly couple in charge are always willing to give helpful cooking tips and serving ideas. I buy a big sack of their vegetables at least once a week.
6:00-18:00
+886-930001651
No. 300, Xikang Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
9:00
Donghai Vil., Taitung City, Taitung County, Taiwan
Exploring Taitung at Your Own Speed
As far as tourists are concerned, public transportation to and within Taitung has come along by leaps and bounds. Getting to the hot springs resort of Zhiben by bus or to Chishang by train is very easy. But throughout Taitung there are dozens of appealing spots which are best reached by car, motorcycle, or bicycle.
Driving into Taitung: The Thrill of the Southern Cross-Island Highway
For self-driving visitors, the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20) is a truly spectacular way to arrive in Taitung. This stunning road climbs the western side of the Central Mountain Range, cresting at an altitude of 2,722m before slowly descending through Taitung’s Haiduan Township.
If you hope to drive the entire length of this road, you’ll need to plan ahead. Currently the highest section is closed to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays. On other days, it’s accessible between 7am and 2pm; all vehicles need to leave the controlled section before 5pm. If a road trip from one side of the island to the other isn’t possible, think about spending a day slowly motoring up the Taitung side as far as Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area, stretching your legs on some of the recreation area’s trails, and then returning via the Bunun tribal villages of Lidao and Wulu.
The Coastal Mountain Range isn’t as imposing as the topographical barrier that separates Taitung from the west of Taiwan, but one of the roads that crosses it — Highway 23 from Donghe in Taitung to Fuli in Hualien — is both car-friendly and scenically delightful.
Southern Coast and Scooter Adventures: Beyond the Bus Routes
Like some other intriguing roads in the county, parts of this route are too narrow for a regular rental car. But if you can ride a standard 125cc scooter with reasonable skill, you’ll do fine. And that’s what we hope you take away from this article: Taitung’s roads deserve respect but they shouldn’t daunt a first-time visitor.
Coastal Mountain Crossings: Scenic Routes from Donghe to Fuli
In the southernmost part of Taitung County, there are regular bus services along Highway 9, the coast road. With your own vehicle, however, you’ll be able to reach colorful Paiwan communities like Tjavanaq (Taiban) and Tjuabal (Tuban) in Daren Township.
From Shangwu in Dawu Township, Taihu Road becomes Shanzhuku Industrial Road. As it climbs to more than 400m above sea level, it passes pineapple plantations and mushroom farms, providing excellent views of both the ocean and the ruggedly green interior before swinging back to Highway 9.
Start Your Taitung Journey
Bilingual Website
Discover Taitung
Taitung Travel Website
Official website and Instagram account managed by the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation.
Official website managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation.
Taitung Taidong 台東 , Taiwan Group
Travel & Transport Apps
Taitung Travel App
Official app managed by the Tourism Department of the Taitung County Government.
Attractions, things to do, food, accommodation, and transportation.
A Facebook group for people who live or have lived in Taitung, Taiwan.
News, upcoming events, and other information
Taiwan Waiting Bus 臺灣等公車
Android
Android iOS iOS
Taitung Times
In-depth features
Local issues, international perspectives.
Emergency Telephone Numbers
Phones While Crossing! Stay Safe And Avoid a Penalty
Look, Listen
The Taitung County Government has collaborated with Crossroads （社團法人台灣 全球連結發展協會） to launch TTNomads - a platform to attract digital nomads and travelers, connect them with local businesses, and boost economic development in Taitung County.
Local stakeholders wanting to connect with new customers, or anybody wishing to meet new friends in Taitung of all nationalities and walks of life are welcome to join TTNomads. Click on the URL or scan the QR codes below to visit the platform and register a free account.
If you are a foreigner living in Taitung and interested in sharing your experience and encouraging others to think about making Taitung their home or long-stay holiday destination, please e-mail us at cocreate.taitung@gmail.com
