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CONTENTS 18 BUSINESS
Dr Aisha Bin Bishr, Director General of Smart Dubai Office
Dr Herbert Wertheim, an Optometrist, Inventor, Entrepreneur and Philanthropist
The Emirates Group’s long-standing commitment to environmental causes
Guido Ferralasco, Head of Ferrero Gulf’s operations
Tarkan Demirbas, Area Vice President Middle East, Philip Morris International (PMI) tells GC about IQOS, PMI’s new flagship smoke-free product
NGO Parley For The Oceans focuses on tackling the problem of Ocean pollution
Pirelli Tyres’ commitment to sustainability
42 COVER STORY
The life of Charles Aznavour
Dr Ahmed El Tigani, CEO of Al Rawabi Dairy
Breguet celebrates one of its founder’s great inventions, the tourbillon
Global Citizen chats with Alain Crevet, President of S. T. Dupont
We sit down with Jasmine Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors at Audemars Piguet, at the Art Basel 2019
Breguet’s Type 20 Only Watch 2019
Officine Panerai’s 2019 Radiomir and Luminor Due models – a tribute to Form and Function
Aston Martin Valkyrie and Valhalla take flight
The 2019 Mini Convertible gets the John Cooper Works treatment
Lincoln debuts Nautilus; its renamed, redesigned and repackaged mid-size SUV
Anguilla’s new Residency-by-Investment programmes for a refined living and optimized freedom
A look at StockX and other businesses catering to the sneaker collecting subculture
23andMe; a Direct-To-Consumer genetic testing and biotechnology company
The fashion industry’s move towards a more sustainable future gathers momentum
Black Pearl by Oceanco is a benchmark setter for the next generation of sailing yachts
Carine Roitfeld, one of the greatest influencers of the fashion industry in the last three decades
The evolution of Social media influencers from collaborators to disruptive competitors
Yerevan, the capital of Armenia – an eternal city Global Citizen Forum hosts a polo tournament ‘Polo in the Port’ in Porto Montenegro
The Taj Cape Town is an embodiment of the town’s heritage
Chef Garima Arora, the first Indian woman recipient of the Michelin star
The Art of Shaving
What’s new in the market
Ali El Amine talks about Republik brand of fitness centres’ latest project, StudioRepublik
TAG Heuer’s latest Monaco Calibre 11 – 1990’s Special Edition is the third to join the celebratory Monaco collection
Fashion Selections for Fall/Winter’19
2018 NOVT / DEC 15
EDITOR’S LETTER O
u r 4 9 t h e d i t ion i s a n exhibition of exceptional personalities. Starting with our cover story, Charles Aznavour Remembering a Legend (p.42), the French-Armenian singer-lyricist exceptionnel and diplomat who passed away last October at the age of 94. We retrace his life’s journey from his formative years, to his achievements, collaborators, and his impact on French music and society, and far beyond. At home, we have an insightful conversation with Ali El-Amine, the co-founder of StudioRepublik (p.108) the new fitness centre that goes beyond anything we have seen till now; not just in size but also in its holistic approach to combing fitness, wellness and skills development. Dr Ahmed El Tigani, CEO of Al Rawabi (p.48) takes us behind the scenes of his remarkable dairy, from its foundation to how it out-innovated its bigger rivals as well as its unique approach to building consumer loyalty. Tarkan Demirbas, Area VP - the Middle East, Philip Morris International (PMI) introduces IQOS – The brand’s new flagship smoke-free alternative (p.32). In Horology, we go back in time to discover how the Tourbillon was born through the mind and hands of Abraham-Louis Breguet (p.54), and take a closer look at Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 (p.64), the brand’s offering at this year’s Only Watch charity auction. We make sense of the six new Luminor Due models and the four Radiomir offered by Officine Panerai this year (p.66). In the world of fashion, we look into the phenomenal growth of StockX – the first billion-dollar high-end sneaker exchange (p.82), sustainability in the fashion industry (p.84) and influencer led fashion (p.88). In the lifestyle section, we put the spotlight on the Taj, Cape Town (p.112), and Yerevan the capital and largest city of Armenia (p.100). As always, enjoy the Read!
GLOBAL CITIZEN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sunaz Sharaf FEATURES EDITOR Shama Moosa JUNIOR EDITOR Almas Salman COPY EDITOR Sameer Denzi ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Nidal Ziyad ART DIRECTOR Omarr Khattab CONTRIBUTORS Teresa Esmezyan EDITORIAL MANAGEMENT Alta Verba Media Suite 17, Iridium Building Umm Suqueim Rd, Al Barsha T: + 971 4 395 9982 email@example.com www.global-citizen.com www.issuu.com/global-citizen www.facebook.com/GlobalCitizenMag www.instagram.com/GlobalCitizenMagazine MEDIA REPRESENTATIVE Fierce International Dubai Internet City Business Central Tower A - Office 2803 T: +971 4 421 5455 - F: +971 4 421 0208 firstname.lastname@example.org
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Publisher Dubai Internet City Business Central Tower A - Office 2803 T: +971 4 421 5455 - F: +971 4 421 0208 email@example.com Copyright 2019 Fierce International. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the permission of Fierce International. Where opinion is expressed it is that of the author and does not necessarily reflect the editorial views of the publisher or Global Citizen. All information in Global Citizen is checked and verified to the best of the publisher’s ability, however the publisher cannot be held responsible for any mistake or omission enclosed in the publication.
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The Dubai Mall 04 339 8883 - Burj Al Arab 04 348 9000 - Mall of the Emirates 04 341 1211 Atlantis 04 422 0233 - Jumeirah Beach Hotel 04 329 1320 2018 NOVT / DEC seddiqi.com
Dr Aisha Bint Butti Bin Bishr, Director General, Smart Dubai Office
THE WOMAN BEHIND A SMART CITY
We look back at the life and achievements of Dr Aisha Bin Bishr, Director General of Smart Dubai Office
henever Dubai has set out to do something, it has been invariably ambitious in conception and methodical in execution. In 2013, His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, announced the “Smart City” project with the aim of using smart-devices (connected to high-speed wireless internet) to form the basis of an efficient interface between Dubai’s various government services and the public. This was at a time when the prefix ‘smart’ was not used as widely in common parlance as it is today, let alone in government policy. “As a smart city, government departments will be interconnected to provide faster services and information to all citizens and guests. We strive to create a new smart concept in running cities,” Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum said at the time. “Through experience, we have learned that there is no one-model-fits-all for development. We strive to catalyze innovation and push the limits of using 18 SEPT / OCT 2019
technology to benefit people.” Five years on, the seed planted by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, has developed into a fully-fledged plant called Smart Dubai Office. The person charged with nurturing this ambitious and pioneering project, from vision to reality, is Dr Aisha Bint Butti Bin Bishr, Director General of Smart Dubai Office. She was chosen for good reason, for she has been at the core of Dubai’s movement towards becoming a smart city from the very inception. Dr Aisha joined the Executive Office of Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid as Assistant Director-General in January 2012. Her responsibilities included, among other things, leading the Smart Dubai task force team from the time of the announcement of the initiative to overseeing the formation of the Smart Dubai Office. In January of 2015, she was formally appointed Director-General of Smart Dubai. Prior to joining the Executive Office in 2012, Dr Aisha had over 18 years of experience in various public and government entities. She began her professional
career in 1994 with Etisalat where she was involved in the development of reporting systems for the Dubai exchange, planning of telephone ranges, and was part of the sevendigits transfer project in Dubai. After six-years at Etisalat, Dr Aisha moved to the Department of Tourism & Commerce Marketing (DTCM) where she initially worked on the redesign of the department’s website. She was then promoted to the directorship of the IT department; responsible for setting strategies and policies, implementing new systems, managing personnel, liaising with internal and external stakeholders, as well as restructuring the department to align with Dubai’s overall strategy. In addition to her role, she was also tasked to lead the e-Goverment project at DTCM. Dr Aisha’s six-years at DTCM, between 2001 and 2007, was not just productive professionally but also academically. First, she earned a Bachelor of Science in Business Information Technology from the Higher Colleges of Technology in 2003. She then attended University of Manchester’s Business School where she earned a Master of Philosophy (MPhil) in ‘Policy and Research on Engineering, Science and Technology’ in 2005, followed by a Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) in ‘Management of Science, Technology and Innovation’ from the same institute in 2006. Following her PhD, Dr Aisha simultaneously completed two programs between 2007 and 2009: one focused on ‘strategy, leadership, and public finance’ at the Mohammed Bin Rashid School of Government (MBRSG), while the other was the ‘Young Leadership Program’ offered by the Mohammed Bin Rashid Program for Leadership Development (MBRPLD). In 2014, she completed IMD Business School’s ‘Orchestrating Winning Performance’ course. As impressive as Dr Aisha’s scholastic accolades may seem on their own, it is more so when one considers that they were all achieved while she was committed to a fulltime and uninterrupted professional career. In 2010, Dr Aisha was appointed as the Assistant Undersecretary for Support Services at the UAE Ministry of
Labour where she managed the ministry’s budget, finance, IT, HR, and procurement systems; she was a member of the strategy and policy committees; headed multiple committees related to internal systems. Her nearly two-year tenure at the Ministry of Labour was followed by the move to the Executive Office, and on to Smart Dubai, which is now “anchored in the vision of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum... to make Dubai the happiest city on Earth,” as stated by the department’s website. This seemingly daunting task rests squarely on the shoulders of Dr Aisha and her team at Smart Dubai, which has, since its inception, launched over 130 initiatives in partnership with government and private sector entities. The objective: “facilitating Dubai’s citywide smart transformation, to empower, deliver and promote an efficient, seamless, safe and impactful city experience for residents and visitors.” Of the over 130 initiatives, five are deemed key to the overall objective of Smart Dubai. The most impressive one has to be the Dubai Data Initiative, the world’s most ambitious and comprehensive data initiative. “Our aim is not to have the most data, but to unleash the greatest value from data, creating new opportunities and improved experiences for all,” states Dr Aisha. The Dubai Blockchain Strategy is designed to help Dubai achieve Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid’s vision of making Dubai “the first city fully powered by Blockchain by 2020.” The Dubai Artificial Intelligence Roadmap focuses on two areas: one is to help stakeholders better understand how AI systems can be used responsibly and ethically, while the other is the first-ofits-kind Artificial Intelligence Lab designed to accelerate Dubai’s AI implementation. The Dubai Paperless Strategy has set a target of 2021 to make all Dubai government entities completely paper-free. The Happiness Agenda, a core initiative and one of the first to be rolled out by Smart Dubai, is managed through the Happiness Meter app, “the world’s first, citywide, live sentiment capture engine.” It allows clients to relate and rank their experiences with their service providers. 2019 SEPT / OCT
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Dr Aisha also leads the ‘The Smart City Index,’ the first-ever global benchmark for smart city implementation developed in cooperation with the International Telecommunication Union and the United Nations. She represents Smart Dubai in the City Protocol Society, Smart City Expo World Congress and GSMA Mobile World Congress. Additionally, she serves as a member of the World Economic Forum’s Global Future Councils, The Fourth Industrial Revolution’s Smart Cities Readiness Index Team, and the World Happiness Council where she heads The Council of Happy Cities. She is also a Board Member of the Higher Colleges of Technology and a Non-Executive Director at Emaar Developments’ Board. Dr Aisha was named Chairperson of the Dubai Future Council for Blockchain, part of the Dubai Future Councils initiative, a futuristic platform launched by His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai and Chairman of the Dubai Executive Council to assess and develop the future of key industry sectors in Dubai over the next 50 years. Dr Aisha also heads The Council of Happy Cities part of the World Happiness Council, is the Chairperson of the SDG 11 Global Council, and is the only female from the Middle East to become a member of the Gartner Global CIO Research Board. Not surprisingly, Dr Aisha has accumulated numerous prestigious awards which include: ‘Excellence in Strategic Leadership Award 2017’ by Entrepreneur Middle East’s Enterprise Agility Awards; Leadership in Digital Transformation by “.GOV,” ‘Outstanding Alumni Award 2017’ from The University of Manchester ME Centre; ‘Woman In Government’ Award at the Arab Women Awards 2016, ‘Woman in Public Sector Award’ from Global Women in Leadership Economic Forum 2015; ‘Community Service Medal 2013’ by Lt. General HH Sheikh Saif bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Interior; and the ‘Middle East Woman Leader in Corporate Management Excellence 2012’ by Middle East Women Leaders Excellence Awards. In addition, she has been felicitated by the Swedish Embassy, Trade Council, and Ericsson, in recognition of her role in implementing the Smart City Vision of Dubai’s leadership. Given her invaluable leadership experience in the field of digital transformation and smart cities, Dr Aisha has become a highly respected and sought-after leader globally. As such, she is much in demand around the world to share her experiences, express her opinion or vision of the future of urban connectivity. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Dr Herbert Wertheim - Optometrist, Inventor, Entrepreneur and Philanthropist 22 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
AN EYE FOR SUCCESS
A look at the interesting life and achievements of Dr Herbert Wertheim
s one strolls across the Florida International Universit y’s main campus in Miami, a name keeps recurring on its institutional buildings: the Herbert Wer theim College of Medicine, the Nicole Wertheim College of Nursing and Health Sciences, the Herbert and Nicole Wertheim Performing Arts Centre and the Wertheim Conservatory. Dr Herbert Wertheim is an optometrist, inventor, entrepreneur, and a billionaire investor that few have heard of. He is also the founder of Dr Herbert & Nicole Wertheim Family Foundation. On the foundation’s website is the following statement: “By a letter dated December 14, 2015, the Wertheim family publicly committed the majority of their wealth to benefit others. They did so by joining The Giving Pledge, a campaign organised by Bill Gates and Warren Buffett to encourage the wealthiest families in the world to commit their assets toward charitable endeavours. The Wertheim Family Foundation has been active for 50 years fulfilling its mission statement: Making Life on Earth Better. This commitment to continuing using their assets to help others is the latest and largest commitment to date from a family which has already given extraordinary amounts of money and time.” Dr Herbie, as he is known to friends, was born in Philadelphia in 1939 to Jewish parents who had fled Nazi Germany. In 1945, his family moved to Hollywood, Florida, where they established a bakery. As a dyslexic child in the 1940s, Wertheim was assumed to be a dud at school and was often made to wear the dunce cap. The other adversity he faced as a child was his abusive father. To escape the humiliation at school and the violence at home, he would often run away and spend time with the native Seminole Indians or hitch-hike across Florida to work at orange and grapefruit plantations. At the age of 16, he was in a Florida courtroom facing truancy charges for which he was given a choice between enlisting in the US Navy or being sent to a state-run reformatory. The following year, in 1956, a 17-year-old Wertheim was in the San Diego naval base. His stint in the navy was, according to Wertheim, the pivotal moment not only in terms of finding discipline in his life but also in terms of his self-confidence. He was put through a series of assessment tests and found to be among the best in his batch in organisational skills and mechanics. Armed with his new positive self-image, he studied
physics and chemistry while in the navy. His technical acumen and his qualification got him technical postings which meant that he was sent to liaise with navy contractors such as the Sikorsky corporation and Bill Lear, who later founded Lear Jet. These interactions encouraged Wertheim to invest a portion of his earnings on the stocks of technology companies. Wertheim has always lived by the idiom: invest in what you understand. Wertheim understood technology, and he understood patents. Instead of focusing on the financials and the stock market ticker, he looked at what technological innovations were in the works at a company, and he studied patent papers. Another area he focused on was the management of a company. He bought shares in Bill Lear’s company while he was in the navy and the company was just a fledgeling. He invested five million dollars in Haico when its shares were worth 33 cents, which today hover around the $80 mark. He bought Microsoft shares through its IPO. There have also been some failures such as Blackberry and his experimentation with using leverage to invest. Running parallel to, and funding Wer theim’s incrementally growing portfolio of investments was his professional career after he left the navy. He was among the earliest engineers at a newly established NASA, working in a division that developed instrumentation for spacecraft. This, in turn, aroused Wertheim’s interest in human sight and visual aids. He successfully applied for a scholarship at Southern College of Optometry in Memphis in 1963. After graduation, he had set up a practice in Southern Florida specialising in visual neurology and optometry. In the evenings, he tinkered in his workshop. In 1969, he invented a tint for plastic lenses that filtered out UV rays that caused cataracts. He sold the royalties to his invention but, due to technicalities, received very little for it. So, in 1970, he founded Brain Power Incorporated (BPI). Today, it holds seven US patents and is the world’s largest manufacturer of ophthalmic instruments, cosmetic and therapeutic tints for eyeglass lenses, and diagnostic products for optometrists, ophthalmologists, opticians and optical laboratories. Among BPI’s recent innovations are coloured dyes that have been used in diagnosing and treating dyslexia, autism, Parkinson’ s-related dyskinesia, and childhood migraines. Wertheim also has a long and deep association with institutes of higher education, especially in his home state of 2019 SEPT / OCT
Florida. It stems from the deep sense of gratitude he feels for these institutions, which he credits as being instrumental in achieving his success. He has been a distinguished lecturer in physiological optics and optometry at the Bascom Palmer Eye Institute and an adjunct professor of physics in the graduate program at the University of Miami, Florida. Florida International University (FIU), which is located close to Wertheim’s home in Miami, has particularly benefited, not only from his financial generosity but also from his time and efforts. He served as Chairman of the Board of Directors and as a Board member of the FIU Foundation bet ween 1988 and 2001. He was one of the founding members of the FIU Board of Trustees. As chairman of FIU’s Academic Affairs Committee, he was instrumental in winning approval for its Medical College. In 2 0 0 9 , t he Wer t hei m fou nd at ion m a de a $20 million c o nt r i b ut io n t o F I U t ow a r d s e s t a b l i s h i n g multiple endowments and eight endowed chairs for the Medical College, which included the first endowed chair in Optometry and Physiological Optics in any medical school. He was also instrumental in establishing FIU’s Herbert and Nicole Wertheim Performing Arts Centre, in the construction of the Wertheim Conservatory, and transforming the Nicole Wertheim College of Nursing and Health Sciences at FIU. It is for these contributions
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that the Wertheim name appears on these Institutes. In October 2015, the foundation made a $50 million donation to establish an Engineering Innovation building at the University of Florida’s (since renamed) Wertheim College of Engineering. Beyond education, the Wertheim Foundation was the original sponsor of the first five-year funding for National Geographic’s document ar ies and other educational programs on South Florida Public Television. It also funded the construction of the Public Radio Station in Vail, Colorado, and the first PBS TV repeater in the Rocky Mountains. On a personal capacit y, Wertheim has ser ved as a member of numerous local and national charitable boards, including the Zoological Society of South Florida and the American Heart Association of Miami. He was a founding benefactor for the Koala and River Otter projects at Miami Metro Zoo, and was a member of the Vail Valley Foundation, among many others. Today, Wertheim is in his 80s and is worth over $2.5 billion, but he values time above all else. He spends quite a bit of it with his wife and family on the luxurious World Residences at Sea - a private-yacht meets luxury-cruiseship - in which he owns an apartment. He calls his leisurely cruise around the globe “Herbie Time.”
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FOR THE SAKE OF THE ENVIRONMENT
The Emirates Group has a long-standing commitment to environmental causes. We delve into some of them
he Emirates Group has been committed to wildlife conservation efforts across the planet, and has pro-actively played a part to preserve biodiversity - from the sustainable tourism models of the group’s Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve and One&Only Wolgan Valley properties, to supporting United for Wildlife’s efforts for tackling the illegal wildlife trade, and signing the WTTC’s Buenos Aires Declaration on Travel and Tourism and Illegal Wildlife Trade, among others. The Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR) and Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley in Australia are both excellent illustrations of the group’s long-standing efforts to preserve fragile ecosystems while providing unique and sustainable experiences for visitors from around the world. The DDCR is an inland desert habitat setup to preserve Dubai’s unique ecosystem. Protected since 2003, it is the largest piece of land that Dubai has dedicated to a single project. Far from being a passive preserve, it plays an essential role in the
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rehabilitation of the local biodiversity, as a venue to conduct ecological research and in the education of tourists on the local flora and fauna. The Arabian gazelle, sand gazelle, Arabian oryx and Macqueen’s bustard (houbara) were some of the prominent species of the region that faced declining numbers or were endangered at one time. Since they were introduced into the DDCR, they have shown such significant increases in their numbers that some had to be relocated. For example, some of oryx and gazelle species, for example, were relocated to other protected areas within the region, while a number of the Macqueen’s bustard were released with 25 of them fitted with tracking devices to monitor their movement and breeding progress. Much of the conservation and research work done at the DDCR is done in collaboration with local and international universities. Their work has enhanced the overall knowledge of the desert ecosystem through data accumulation on rare and
endangered species. As part of its efforts to increase awareness of the desert ecology, the DDCR offers low-impact desert experiences. Last year, more than 285,000 tourists visited the reserve through Arabian Adventures, Al Maha Desert Resort and other Emirates partner tour operators. The reserve also organises desert clean-up activities in coordination with Arabian Adventures. In recognition of these efforts, the DDCR was accepted as a candidate for the IUCN Green List for Protected and Conserved Areas, a global standard for the world’s most effectively managed Protected Areas. Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, meanwhile, is an ultra-luxury conservation-based resort occupying just one per cent of a 7,000-acre nature reserve in the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area in New South Wales. The property was the first luxury resort in the world to receive an internationally recognised carbon neutral certification from New Zealand based CarboNZero. For over ten years, the resort and Emirates have been supporting efforts to protect and preser ve the region’s extraordinary natural beaut y, flora and fauna through collaborative research, vegetation restoration, tree planting and habitat re-establish activities. Recent examples include the development of the WomSAT app to help researchers combat the sarcoptic mange infection affecting the wombat population, the Wolgan River Restoration Project, and an ongoing weed management programme, among many others. The illegal trade in wildlife and wildlife-products has been devastating for endangered animals and the environment in many parts of the world. Since 2015, Emirates has supported
the efforts of United for Wildlife’s efforts to tackle the illegal wildlife trade. Last year Emirates became a signatory to the Buenos Aires Declaration on Travel and Tourism and Illegal Wildlife Trade. An initiative led by the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC), it aims to encourage a billion travellers to join the fight against the illegal wildlife trade, and to work with communities to develop sustainable tourism that provides livelihoods while also protecting the wildlife. To spread the message and to spur conversation around wildlife preservation, Emirates emblazoned four of its A380s with special wildlife decals. Since then the aircrafts have flown millions of kilometres across 48 cities in 29 countries on close to 6,000 flights, according to the airline. Furthermore, the group has adopted a zero-tolerance policy to wildlife trafficking and has set up training for its employees to identify the warning signs of smuggled wildlife products. Emirates will not carry banned species, hunting trophies or any products associated with illegal wildlife activities. Dnata recently signed an MOU with the University of Pretoria, South Africa, as part of its Dnata4good initiative, to safeguard wildlife and the environment through research, veterinary training, rehabilitation of injured animals and increasing awareness through participation. T h i s ye a r, E m i r a t e s s t a f f a l s o g o t i nvol ve d b y participating in a Ghaf Tree planting event in April in partnership with Goumbook. The Ghaf is a drought resistant, evergreen tree that can withstand harsh desert environments, and can be used for greening purposes while saving water.
The reserve is also a focal point for conservation programmes aimed at restoring populations of some of the UAE’s wildlife. 2019 SEPT / OCT
FERRERO SPA: DELIGHTING THE GCC
GC speaks exclusively with Guido Ferralasco, the man heading Ferrero’s Gulf operations
utella, the chocolate-hazelnut spread, the spherical coconut-almond flavoured Confetteria Raffaello, the many variants of the Kinder brand including kinder eggs, Tic Tac candy, Ferrero Rocher and Thorntons; just some of the iconic and much-beloved names that belong to Ferrero SpA, the Italian chocolate and confectionery company. Guido Ferralasco, the Regional Managing Director since 2015 of Ferrero Gulf, speaks to GC about the company in the region. Please give us a brief introduction to Ferrero SpA. Ferrero is a private, family-owned company that began in the little town of Alba in Piedmont, Italy, in 1946. Today, with a consolidated global turnover of over 10 billion euros, Ferrero is the third worldwide group in the chocolate confectionery market. The Ferrero Group has a vast global presence with more than 40,000 collaborators across 55 countries and 22 manufacturing plants. Our iconic products such as Nutella, Ferrero Rocher, Raffaello, Tic Tac and the Kinder line, are present and sold in more than 170 countries; they have become part of the collective memory and customs of many countries. How is the organization structured for the GCC region and the UAE, and what is their significance? The GCC represents about five per cent of the total Group turnover and is an important geographical area for Ferrero globally. About four years ago, we first set up a new regional business unit for Ferrero in Dubai to cover the GCC market. Since then, we have established a full-fledged operation tasked to control a number of key markets and retail sales in excess of $500 million. We have also grown from an
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organization of 12 to one of 170. The majority of our iconic products were first introduced in the region more than 30 years ago. While our sales figures are not made public, we can certainly say that our different products appeal to respective target audiences. More recently, we have launched a number of new and innovative products in the GCC including Nutella B-Ready in 2017 and the recent regional launch of Tic Tac sugar-free gum. As for distribution, we are present in about 3,500 stores in the GCC. In traditional trade – mini markets and groceries – you can find our products in about 40,000 stores across the region. The UAE remains a key market for us and one rife with opportunities. It is with this in mind that we launched our joint venture last year titled FerGulf Trading UAE LLC, with our longstanding partner Al Seer Group, a leading FMCG distributor in the Lower Gulf. The joint venture will inevitably lead to new avenues of growth, which include opportunities for local expansion and the development of new products or strategies. How does Ferrero approach health issues related to consuming chocolates and other products? At Ferrero, we believe that all food types can be equally part of a varied and balanced diet, without restricting certain foods or condemning individual ingredients or specific nutrients. In short, the whole lifestyle – which should obviously include regular physical activity – rather than any single food, determines health. This has been the group’s longstanding belief since its founding. It is also precisely why Ferrero has always controlled the caloric intake of its products from the early stages of
Guido Ferralasco, Regional Managing Director, Ferrero Gulf 2019 SEPT / OCT
30 SEPT / OCT 2019
“At Ferrero, we believe that all food types can be equally part of a varied and balanced diet, without restricting certain foods or condemning individual ingredients or specific nutrients. In short, the whole lifestyle – which should obviously include regular physical activity – rather than any single food, determines health. This has been the group’s longstanding belief since its founding.” - Guido Ferralasco, Regional Managing Director, Ferrero Gulf
product development. Across the Gulf markets, 90% of Ferrero products are sold in portions weighing less than 25g, and over 95% of marketed volumes are sold in portions providing less than 150 kcal. This caloric limit allows consumers to enjoy Ferrero products in different eating occasions throughout the day and as part of a balanced diet containing other food groups such as fruits, milk and dairy products, cereals and wheat-based products. For instance, our iconic product Nutella is always positioned as a food to be consumed – on a piece of bread – according to its specific serving size of 15g and as part of a varied breakfast. In line with our nutrition guidelines at Ferrero, we have worked on the development of an educational program dedicated to promoting active lifestyles. Our international Social Responsibility program, Kinder Joy of Moving promotes the importance of movement and daily physical activity for children and young people around the world, to support their long health and happiness. What CSR initiatives and activities are being undertaken on a regional and global level? For our group as a whole, the ter m corporate social responsibility has always stood for caring for people and for the local area: namely consumers, employees and former employees, families and the local communities in which we operate. These principles of social responsibility guided Ferrero’s first steps 70 years ago in Alba and remain unchanged to this day.
Both globally and in the region, our approach to corporate social responsibility focuses primarily on our consumers: our key stakeholders. Our passion to satisfy them is at the heart of our daily activities here at Ferrero Gulf and across business units worldwide. Our approach to sustainability is currently based on our social responsibility strategy: “Sharing values to create value.” The creation of shared value is a practice that affects our day-to-day operations as it impacts all stages of the supply chain. It goes from caring for the people who have made and continue to make the history of the group, the support of local communities and the promotion of active lifest yles among youths and their families, all the way to our fir m commitment to sustainable farming practices and safeguarding and protecting the environment. Globally, our commitment to caring for people and the local area is demonstrated by the activities of the Ferrero Foundation and the M ichele Fer rero Entrepreneur ial Project, active in Africa and Asia. When it comes to caring for the planet, monitoring and improving the impact of our activities throughout the entire supply chain is a priority for our group, which we address by ensuring that our main raw materials are responsibly sourced. For ex ample, committing to sourcing all refined cane sugar and cocoa from sustainable sources by 2020 – are global objectives. This means that business units across geographical areas need to work towards accomplishing these milestones. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Tarkan Demirbas, Area Vice President - Middle East, Philip Morris International (PMI)
A brief review of Philip Morris International’s IQOS, its new flagship smoke-free product
ur vision is to convert, as soon as possible, every adult smoker who otherwise would not have quit to our smoke-free products. Moreover, we have bluntly said: how long can the world’s number one tobacco company continue selling cigarettes. We want to stop selling cigarettes as quickly as possible,” Tarkan Demirbas, Area Vice President - Middle East, Philip Morris International (PMI), told us after the regional unveiling of IQOS; PMI’s new flagship smoke-free product. Philip Morris International is an American multinational cigarette and tobacco manufacturing company that traces its origins to 1847, when tobacconist Philip Morris opened a single shop on London’s Bond Street. Today, PMI has in its portfolio six of the world’s top international 15 brands, including Marlboro, the world’s best-selling cigarette brand since 1972, and L&M, the fourth best-selling. It employs 77,000 people in 46 production facilities around the world. Its products are sold in over 180 countries worldwide to a total of 150 million consumers. PMI also sells cigarettes through its subsidiaries and joint ventures: Rothmans, Benson & Hedges, Sampoerna in Indonesia, PMFTC in the Philippines, and Papastratos Philip Morris International in Greece. PMI’s current smoke-free product portfolio contains four products in var ious stages of development and 32 SEPT / OCT 2019
commercialisation: IQOS, TEEPS, E-Vapor Products and STEEM. Emphasising the importance of these products to PMI’s future plans, Tarkan says, “we have already invested six-billion dollars into developing these products. We have two research centres, in Switzerland and Singapore, employing 430 scientists, engineers and experts. This also includes the cost of product design and engineering at the factories to produce these products.” IQOS is the first of PMI’s smoke-free products to reach the consumer market and has been available for the past two years in select markets such as Japan and South Korea. After receiving FDA approval recently, following a two-year evaluation process, PMI has commenced a global program to introduce it to new markets around the world. “We are very confident about our product and the science behind the innovation. And now the numbers prove it. Already, 8 million smokers around the world have converted to IQOS,” says Tarkan. Prior to the 16th century, tobacco leaves were mainly used for medicinal and religious ceremonies. Once the tobacco leaf was lit and inhaled, its popularity exploded, resulting in a multibillion-dollar industry that has been held responsible for more than six million deaths each year; making it one of the leading causes of avoidable fatalities on the planet. The tobacco in a cigarette, when lit, burns at
temperatures above 600°C, generating smoke that contains a cocktail of harmful chemicals that have been held responsible for a broad range of ailments, from various types of cancers to cardiovascular diseases, repository system and several organ malfunctions. IQOS is a tobacco heating system that heats tobacco up to 350°C, without combustion, fire, ash, or smoke. It consists of a battery pack that lasts about a year and a hollowedout cylinder. A modified cigarette, called a HeatStick, is inserted into the hollowed-out cylinder at one end and heated. According to PMI, “The lower temperature heating releases the true taste of heated tobacco. Because the tobacco is heated and not burned, the levels of harmful chemicals are significantly reduced compared to cigarette smoke.” Tarkan adds: “It is substantiated. IQOS has 95 per cent less harmful chemicals compared to the cigarette.” Cr itics of the industry will argue that they have heard similar claims before, particularly with the recent controversy surrounding JUUL e-cigarettes in the US. It had become the most popular e-cigarette in the United States, with a market share of 72 per cent by the end of 2017. By September 2018, its widespread use among high schoolers triggered concern among parents and the general public health community. This led to multiple investigations by the US Food and Drug Administration as well as numerous state and federal investigators. The primary thrust of the criticism centred around nicotine addiction among teenagers and the social-media-based marketing that was
accused of intentionally targeting teenagers. Tarkan responds to these concerns by saying: “The best any smoker can do, and we urge them to do, is to quit smoking altogether. There is no risk-free product, but if they do not quit, IQOS presents a lot-less-harm option compared to continued smoking.” Also, he says, “we have what we call Good Conversion Practices. It is a company policy that has to be adhered to strictly at every selling point of IQOS. According to this policy, we can have a conversation about IQOS only if you meet these two basic requirements: you’re a smoker, and you’re not a minor.” In other words, retailers of IQOS, as per PMI policy, cannot sell to minors and they cannot sell to non-smokers because PMI’s stated objective with IQOS is to convert traditional cigarette smokers into IQOS users and not to bring in new smokers. PMI’s decision to launch IQOS in the UAE market was preceded by the issuance of the UAE federal rules (UAE.S 5030), which came into effect in February this year. It permits the retail sale of electronic cigarettes, electronic pipes, electronic shisha devices plus their accompanying refills. Prior to this rule coming into effect, it was illegal for retailers to sell e-cigarette products while it was not an offence to own or use one. Regarding regional objectives of PMI with respect to IQOS, Tarkan concludes: “We have launched IQOS in 48 markets, UAE is the 49th market. In the GCC, there are over nine million smokers, and obviously, we want them to switch as quickly as possible to smoke-free products.”
IQOS, PMI’s new flagship smoke-free product 2019 SEPT / OCT
TIME TO PRIORITIZE THE OCEAN
NGO Parley For The Oceans has been leading a multi-pronged attack on the plastics polluting our oceans
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f The Oceans Die, We Die”- Captain Paul Watson, the marine wildlife conservation and environmental activist, who founded the anti-poaching and direct action group Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, once said. If that be true, we are in big trouble. According to the UNESCO, waste produced by humans, such as agricultural run-off, pesticides, untreated sewage and plastics, account for approximately 80% of marine pollution, globally. It is estimated that every square mile of ocean contains 46,000 pieces of floating plastic which causes the deaths of more than a million seabirds every year, as well as more than 100,000 marine mammals. Plastic debris weather and erode over time into tiny fragments known as micro-plastics which enter the food chain and are ingested by the marine life, and eventually by humans. There are several high-profile NGOs focused on tackling the problem of Ocean pollution, in particular, pollution resulting from plastic debris. One of them is Parley For The Oceans, which provides the space where creators, thinkers, and leaders come together to raise awareness for the beauty and fragility of our oceans and collaborate on projects that can end their destruction. Founded by award-winning designer and brand and product developer Cyrill Gutsch in 2012, the NGO also runs the Parley Ocean School (POS) in the Maldives which aims to educate and empower a new class of ambassadors for the movement. The Parley strategy is based on the premise that change ultimately lies in the hands of the consumer, given that we all
have the ability to choose more environmentally sustainable alternatives which in turn will incentivize the producers to veer in the same direction. The end goal is to make environmental protection fiscally lucrative for the leading manufacturers around the world. Parley’s objectives are not new but are designed to accelerate a process of change that is already in progress. To bring about a reality where consumers have a truly ecofriendly alternative, Parley has recruited a diverse group of professionals - artists, musicians, actors, film-makers, fashion designers, journalists, architects, product inventors, and scientists – who have the ability to influence popular opinion or to develop ecologically sustainable products or business models. On the corporate side, Parley has implemented a three-stage approach to implementing meaningful collaborations. The first stage is Parley Talk: a gathering where “Parley Speakers” address a specific area of concern to a select audience. These “Talks” often begin with an overview of the State of the Oceans in general, followed by the specific cause of concern. These talks aim to generate support for a related initiative or project among the guests. The first Parley Talk was hosted by artist and filmmaker Julian Schnabel at his Palazzo Chupi in New York to brainstorm on how the creative industries could lend support to and cooperate with leading global not-for-profit organizations, as well as raise awareness and fund operations. Another was held at the United Nations titled: Parley Oceans. Climate.
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Life. It was held during the High-Level Meeting on Climate Change convened by the President of the General Assembly and aimed to raise awareness on critical conversations leading up to COP21 in Paris. If a “Talk” succeeds in generating serious interest to support the subject cause, it leads to the second stage known as Collaboration Sessions. Here, the Parley team first develops an idea or concept and then presents it to potential partners. If an agreement is reached, it leads to the third stage, known as the Collaborative Project. It is the actual collaboration process between Parley and its partner, where the Parley team engineers a realistic roadmap for translating the stated objectives of the collaboration into an implementable process. Here are results of some noteworthy collaborations. American Express will introduce the first credit card made primarily of recycled Ocean Plastic, phase out singleuse plastics and increase recycling at all its major offices and Centurion airport lounges globally and organize companyrun coastal and river cleanups. Soma offers a limited edition, reusable water bottle with a sleeve made from Parley Ocean Plastic. The Parley SnotBot is a drone-enabled research device that hovers over surfacing whales to collect their mucus, which is rich in biological data. It will now be powered by Intel’s advanced technology and artificial intelligence. Corona has committed to Parley’s AIR Strategy - Avoid, Intercept, Redesign - whereby the Mexican beverage giant will organize beach cleanups, awareness campaigns, as well as corporate commitments and initiatives. Adidas, which has a long-standing relationship with Parley, unveiled the first performance products made from Parley’s Ocean Plastic, in 36 SEPT / OCT 2019
the form of new kits for football clubs Bayern Munich and Real Madrid, as well as the first UltraBOOST Uncaged Parley running shoe. In addition to these high-profile collaborations, Parley has engaged “Ambassadors” to represent and publicize its initiatives in their countries. Some of the Ambassadors include Chris Hemsworth (Australia), Diego Luna (Mexico), Ramon Navarro (Chile) and Nashla Bogaert (Dominican Republic). These and the other ambassadors and employees of the collaborating brands have attended the Parley Ocean School in the Maldives. Based on Jacques Cousteau’s ethos, “people protect what they love,” the school has been holding immersive sessions designed not only to increase the awareness of the issues facing our oceans but also to develop an emotional attachment among its students towards the blue universe. The instructors come from diverse backgrounds and include the likes of Ameer Abdullah, PhD, a Marine Ecologist; Ian Kerr, CEO of Ocean Alliance; Mike Long, Director of Operations at Parley; Steve Richardson, Director of Material Sustainability & Innovation, Adidas Group; Shaahina Ali, Adventurer and Photojournalist. The school also works with local authorities and the nonprofit organization BEAM to implement the Parley AIR strategy and provide community education and infrastructure to help prevent, divert and reduce plastic pollution in the Indian Ocean. The aim of POS is not only to provide its students and Parley Ambassadors with the tools for creating a positive change but also guides them in inspiring other individuals to use these tools in their everyday professional and personal lives.
2019 SEPT / OCT
The Direct-To-Consumer genetic testing has boomed in recent years, and leading the charge is 23andMe
“76-year-old woman finds her birth family after a 40-year search,” a “Stanford professor finds an unexpected distant cousin,” and “while learning about their own DNA, siblings discover each other.” These are just some of the headlines related to real, emotional stories found on the “Stories” webpage of 23andMe; a private DirectTo-Consumer genetic testing and biotechnology company based in Mountain View, California. The stories are there to highlight the humanistic side of a technology that otherwise focuses on genealogy and genetic health indicators. Founded in 2006 by Anne Wojcicki, Linda Avey, and Paul Cusenza, 23andMe’s mission, according to its website, is “to help people access, understand and benefit from the human genome.” The 23 in the company name refers to the 23 pairs of chromosomes in a normal human cell. The company currently employs well over 500 people, ships its product to more than 50 countries worldwide, has more than 10,000,000 customers, and has collected one billion individual survey responses. Of the ten-million-plus customers, more than 80 per cent have optedin to participate in 23andMe’s research where, on average, one
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individual contributes to 200 different research studies. This participation by its customers has enabled 23andMe to publish more than 100 peer-reviewed studies in scientific journals. In 2008, Time magazine chose 23andMe’s service as its “Invention of the Year” because it provided its customers’ information on more than 90 traits and conditions. In 2017, 23andMe was included in MIT Technology Review’s list of “50 Smartest Companies,” as well as Fast Company’s “25 Brands That Matter Now.” 23andMe began offering direct-to-consumer genetic testing in November 2007. The process begins with a customer mail-ordering a kit that contains a specimen collector and an instruction manual. The customer spits saliva into the collector, seals it, and returns it to 23andMe. Between three to five weeks later, 23andMe sends an email to the customer to let them know that the reports are ready. The customer can then log-in to the company’s website to discover the result. Customers can choose between two types of reports. Ancestry Service is the basic one and includes over 35 reports such as Ancestry Composition, Ancestry Timeline,
Chromosome Painting, Maternal Haplogroup, Paternal Haplogroup, Neanderthal Ancestry, and the customer’s DNA Family. The second option is the Health + Ancestry Service, the premium option that includes all the reports in the Ancestry Service plus additional health specific reports that fall under the following four categories. The Health Predisposition reports are a collection of more than ten reports that focus on the customer’s predisposition to certain illnesses as a result of one’s genes, such as diabetes, Familial Hypercholesterolemia, anaemia, Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s, and deficiencies of the heart, liver, kidneys and so on. Wellness reports focus on lifestyle-related issues such as alcohol flush reaction, caffeine consumption, genetic weight, lactose intolerance, saturated fat, and so on. Traits reports comprise more than 30 physical traits from hair colour to fear of Public Speaking and early hair loss potential. Finally, the 40plus Carrier Status reports focus on the customer’s potential to be a carrier of a number of diseases. As with all new technologies, especially those that collect personal information, the Direct-To-Consumer (DTC) genetic testing industry in general, and 23andMe in particular, have not
been immune to controversies. The main criticisms have been around data privacy, test result accuracy, medical concerns and regulatory compliance. In the area of data privacy, the main accusation is that the company collects customer data beyond what is provided in the application forms and also what it does with the collected data. The medical profession has voiced opposition to the DTC genetic testing industry as a whole because, according to them, the industry lacks governmental oversight and that its advertising and marketing claims are not sufficiently regulated. This new technology has opened a whole new world where people can discover something new about themselves - be it something as technical as their genealogy, their predisposition to certain health risks, their physical traits, or to help them find something as invaluable as long-lost loved ones. The technology has its detractors from medical professionals to dataprivacy advocates. The regulators are scurrying to define it and to regulate it. In this atmosphere of positives and negatives, the DTC industry, and 23andMe in particular, has experienced phenomenal growth, especially since 2017. By all indicators, this trend is set to continue. 2019 SEPT / OCT
A PRACTICAL APPROACH TO SUSTAINABILITY
A review of Pirelli’s environmental policy and how it translates to real-world actions
t the heart of this story are Sofyan and Maimunah, who are the first cultivators that I meet. They live in a stilt house immersed in the deafening sounds of the forest, a tranquillity that bursts with action: silence of human activity and the impetuous din of invisible activities. It is the rhythm of nature. To synchronize, you need to slow down. And do it in a determined fashion, to allow the time of nature to become the time of men,” writes Alessandro Scotti in the logbook that accompanies the web presentation “Being Fast Takes Time” at pirelli.com/naturalrubber. Alessandro narrates his story – told through 30 black and white images, videos and other elements, including the logbook – of a journey through Indonesia, the island of Java, Sumatra and the plantations in the province of Chonburi in Thailand. The reportage documents the role of women, the life of the farmers, whose sustenance depends on these precious trees, the complex tapping technique, the incisions made to extract the latex and the wildness of nature; where people live alongside elephants, orangutans and crocodiles. It is the story of rubber as it journeys from the white of the latex to the black of the tyre; from a harmonious ecosystem which must be protected to the paved ecosystem of our urban world. “We cannot do without natural rubber in the production of tyres. It is of fundamental importance to us that the processes involved in its cultivation and extraction are carried out in a sustainable way, respecting people and the ecosystem in the key producer countries like Indonesia and Thailand. Only with a responsible approach can we contribute to ensure the future of such a precious raw material and to the local populations that draw their sustenance from rubber,” says Marco Tronchetti Provera, Executive Vice Chairman and CEO of Pirelli. Pirelli’s commitment to sustainability stems from the Sustainable Natural Rubber Policy it issued in 2017. Its goal, according to the Italian brand, is to promote and develop a sustainable and responsible natural rubber supply chain involving farmers, traders, processors, sellers and producers. It was drafted in consultation with the various stakeholders because, among other reasons, Pirelli does own plantations and therefore must implement its sustainability strategy through partnerships with its suppliers. The policy also seeks compliance with the Ten Principles of the United Nations Global Compact and the Guidelines for Corporate Social of the ISO 26000 International Standard. In 2018, Pirelli published an Implementation Manual along with its Roadmap 2019-2021. The Roadmap details the real“
40 SEPT / OCT 2019
world activities that the company is undertaking to support its supply chain with the implementation of the policy. The activities planned for 2019, for example, include, among other things, training activities to facilitate the implementation of Pirelli’s Policy, partnerships with strategic suppliers to enhance the productivity of their plantations, mapping of socioenvironmental risks, using satellites and other tools, of forest areas that have to be protected. As part of the policy, Pirelli’s suppliers are also required to avoid using fires to clear spaces to prepare new plantations, not to cultivate in peat bogs and to adhere strictly to the internationally recognized High Conservation Value (HCV) and High Carbon Stock (HCS) guidelines to conserve the ecosystem. On the Macro level, Pirelli is one of the founders of the Global Platform for Sustainable Natural Rubber – along with other major tyre makers, major players in the automotive sector, international NGOs and natural rubber producers - which has the goal of uniting efforts for the sustainable development of natural rubber at the world level. Pirelli’s projections for the year 2020 state that Revenues from Green Performance products will account for 50% of sales, and more than 65% of High-Value products. The specific CO2 emissions will see a reduction of 17%, a decrease of 19% in specific energy consumption through increased use of renewables, and a 66% reduction in water drawing, and sending at least 95% of waste to recovery. The comparative figures take 2009 as the year of reference. There have also been improvements in terms of health and safety at work where, for example, the index of accident frequency was down by 81% compared with 2009, while the investment in training was on average above 8 days per employee, thus exceeding for the sixth year the target of an average of 7 days per capita. “Pursuing sustainable development means always looking ahead to tomorrow, keeping it clear that economic, environmental and human capital are interdependent and should be managed as such. We have always worked to create enduring value, based on the passion and skill of our people, and this approach is also found in our sustainable natural rubber policy,” said Marco Tronchetti Provera, Executive Vice Chairman and CEO of Pirelli. Pirelli’s Commitment to Sustainability has resulted in its inclusion in the Auto Components segment on the Dow Jones Sustainability Index and the Sustainability Yearbook 2019 through to its inclusion in the Climate A list drawn up by CDP.
2019 SEPT / OCT
Charles Aznavour, Armenian-French singer-lyricist 42 SEPT / OCT 2019
Honouring the life of musical legend, Charles Aznavour, who has left the world with songs and performances that continue to inspire generations to come.
n October 1st, 2018, the world lost more than an artist. It lost a voice that echoed beyond horizons, reaching one end of the world to the other, with powerful words and moving melodies. But this story isn’t about loss. It’s about life. The life of Charles Aznavour. Like water, music knows no boundaries, and Mr. Aznavour’s music was a testament to melodies and lyrics diffusing their emotions through borders, continents and even through generations. Chahnour Aznavourian was born in Paris in the early 20s to Armenian immigrant parents; Mischa and Knar Aznavourian. The two fled from Armenia to France in the wake of the systematic massacres ordered by the Ottoman government between 1914 and 1923, which saw 1.5 million Armenians exterminated. Through tragedy and escape, an unfamiliar world unfolded to the Aznavourians as they tried to make ends meet in their new homeland. Living in a poor part of the Latin quarter in France, his father worked as a cook and his mother as a seamstress. His father was also known to sing in restaurants in France before opening his own, Le Caucase, where Charles was first introduced to the art of performing. By the age of nine, he
had already dropped out of school and taken his stage name, Charles Aznavour. The 1940s held defiant glamour in Paris during the occupation, while the wretch of the second world war brought a newfound musical energy to the era. The world was beaming with iconic artists such as Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby and Ella Fitzgerald. Soon enough, Charles Aznavour’s name also highlighted the best of this quintessential generation. During this period, Charles joined singer-composer Pierre Roche in a nightclub act and gained experience writing lyrics. It was through this partnership that Aznavour first explored his talent in composing and singing his own music. He even opened for Edith Piaf at the Moulin Rouge, after which the two toured together around France and the US. By the early 1960s, he sold out Carnegie Hall in New York. What Charles Aznavour held within him was the desire to be outspoken. He wrote about things no one would dare speak of, he performed in theatrical ways which the world had never seen, he revolutionized art and poetry and song with personality, and most vitally, he held within him, the soul of a global citizen— never belonging to one single place. He belonged to the stages of the world, and through the fluidity 2019 SEPT / OCT
of his music, his aura, and his message, international fame followed him until his last day. Charles Aznavour was enamoured by admirers around the globe, performing in the world’s most prominent venues in various languages, including French, English, Italian, Spanish, German, Russian, and Armenian. In a career that spanned over 70 years, he recorded nearly 1,200 songs interpreted in 9 languages, that told the stories of struggling bohemian artists, love and poverty, street violence, prejudice against the LGBT community and depression. He has performed and collaborated with numerous singers, such as Frank Sinatra, Andrea Bocelli, Bing Crosby, Liza Minnelli, Ray Charles, Elton John, and Bob Dylan; who even deemed Aznavour as one of the greatest live performers he had ever seen. By then, he sold an upwards of 100 million records. While he sang for kings and queens and even the Pope, 44 SEPT / OCT 2019
he also raised money for charity, launching the ‘Aznavour for Armenia’ appeal in response to the 1988 earthquake in the country, and always retained the common touch. In 1995 Aznavour was appointed an Ambassador and Permanent Delegate of Armenia to UNESCO and was also a member of the Armenia Fund International Board of Trustees. The organization has rendered more than $150 million in humanitarian aid and infrastructure development assistance to Armenia since 1992. It is beyond extraordinary to reveal the countless honours and awards Charles Aznavour was endowed throughout his years, but it is enough to say, that his work, his voice, and his presence, inspired countless nations, throughout numerous generations. From becoming Officer of the Legion of Honour in 1997, Honorary Officer of the Order of Canada in 2006, Commander in the Belgian Order of the Crown in 2015, to
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46 SEPT / OCT 2019
winning the Edison Award, MIDEM Lifetime Achievement Award, and a Star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Charles Aznavour embodied the story of true success in the face of adversity as part of the Armenian diaspora. Until his last days, Aznavour continued to take the stage. At 94 years old, he still had on his dapper suit, and recited his powerful songs with an energy one could only dream of seeing at least once in their lifetime. Following his death on October 1st, 2018 at his home in France, Aznavour was honoured with a state funeral at Les Invalides military complex in Paris, with president Emmanuel Macron lauding him as one of the most important “faces of France”. Crucially, the French president also hailed Aznavour as an example of how much children of immigrants and refugees can give to their adopted country. His coffin was lifted away at the end to the sound of his song “Emmenez-Moi” in the attendance of French Prime Minister Édouard Philippe, former presidents Nicolas Sarkozy and Francois Hollande, as well as Armenian President Armen Sarkissian and Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan. “Charles Aznavour is the man who pitched the flag of Armenia on the roof of the world,” said Pashinyan about the artist. Global Citizen is honoured to dedicate this issue to pay tribute to Charles Aznavour on the anniversary of his passing and to continue to tell the story that has touched the lives of many. Monsieur Aznavour; you were truly, ‘Formidable.’ 2019 SEPT / OCT
Dr Ahmed El Tigani, CEO, Al Rawabi Dairy 48 SEPT / OCT 2019
DELIVERING SUCCESS THROUGH INNOVATION
GC talks to the CEO of Al Rawabi Dairy on how the company manages to stay ahead of the competition
r Ahmed El Tigani was one of the founding members of Al Rawabi Dairy Company in 1989, and today, he is its Chief Executive Officer. Starting with a farm of 500 imported cows, Al Rawabi has 18,000 cows today, supplies milk to the UAE and Oman markets, and has been awarded ISO-9001, ISO-14003, ISO-22000, and HACCP certifications. It has also received many local and international recognitions, such as Super Brand Award, Best Environmental Practices, as well as been listed among the 40 strongest brands in the Arab World by Forbes Magazine twice, in 2008 and 2015. The company has also won AgraMe Award for Best Farm Innovations and the Dubai Municipality Award for Excellence in Animal Welfare, both in 2015.
Dr Ahmed El Tigani has a PhD in Veterinary Medicine. He has worked as a Veterinary Surgeon, a lecturer in Veterinary Medicine, Director of University Farm in Sudan and as the General Manager at National Agriculture Development Company, Saudi Arabia. He has also published numerous scientific papers in international Scientific Journals and contributed in writing two scientific books. In addition to being the CEO of Al Rawabi, he also lecturers at the UAE University in Al Ain and is involved in several social, charitable, humanitarian activities across various areas. He was awarded Manager of the Year twice by the European Business Assembly at Oxford, UK (2010 and 2013) and awarded as The Worldâ€™s Greatest Leader, Asia & GCC, by Asia One & PWC 2015.
Al Rawabi Farm 2019 SEPT / OCT
Thirty years ago, Al Rawabi was born. How did this come about? Back in 1989, milk production in the UAE was very limited as there were only two dairies - Al Ain Dairy and Digdaga - and together, they produced about 15,000 litres of milk which was not enough because the total population in the UAE was about two million, and it was growing. At that time, I was a lecturer at King Faisal University in Saudi Arabia. The Arabian Authority for Agricultural Investment and Development (AAAID) which belongs to the Arab League, contacted me and asked me to come for
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an interview. They told me that there is a big opportunity in Dubai to establish a dairy company. I was chosen out of 24 candidates to develop the company from scratch. So through AAAID, we contacted the Government of Dubai and the Gulf Investment Corporation (GIC). The three of them, together with three local private investors Al Naboodah, Al Mullah and Al Owais groups - injected about ten million dollars to start the company. We imported 500 cows, we established a processing plant and the milking parlour, and we had finished the feasibility study and action plan by March 1990. Nine months later, in December 1990, we were already in the market.
How did Al Rawabi overcome the competition in the market? The real competition came from Saudi Arabia because the cost of producing milk there is much lower than here, as there are subsidies for cow feed, electricity, and water. But they compete with us in the same market, with the same price and on the same date. So we focused on innovation, creativity, and cost control to be as efficient as possible while producing high-quality products. Al Rawabi is exceptional in introducing firsts; first to introduce plastic bottles, family packs, fresh juices, and Functional Products such as Nutree Boost, Omega-3 milk and Super Milk. Our competitors watch us, and then they imitate us, but this comes two or three years after, and by then, we have already taken the market. At Al Rawabi, we have an innovation team composed of the top one per cent of the smartest people in the company; they may include a security guard or anyone up to the senior management. We meet every fortnightly, and they come up with crazy ideas, and sometimes their ideas are wonderful,
and we implement them. Also, at the end of the year, the management is given three corporate goals for the following year. Then each manager has to produce three goals aligned with the three corporate goals and every department head under him also has to provide three goals. This process cascades all the way from the board to the bottom of the company. These are not just general goals but smart goals with defined and transparent measures. They are discussed and updated weekly in each department. We renew our corporate strategy every three years; now, we are preparing our 2020 to 2023 strategy. On the technology side, we have implemented an electronic sensor to detect when the cow is coming into heat and another for the early detection of diseases. Five years ago, we implemented a technology called Embryo Transfer, where instead of getting one calf from one cow, we can get 54 calves per year. We have robotic systems for distributing the feed for the cows. We have robots in the processing plant to move the filled bottles to crates, then to the palettes and into the warehouse. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Considering the UAE’s weather conditions, what measures are taken to ensure the well-being of the cows? Our cows are Friesian-Holstein breed, and they are the best milk producers. They come from the northern part of Holland and Germany, near the Nordic Sea, which is very cold. Heat-stress causes the cows to lose their appetite, which means they don’t eat well. This negatively affects the cow’s ability to produce milk as well as their fertility, which means they don’t conceive. So, we pay great attention to what we call cow comfort. We imported a cooling system which sprays water using air pressure to reduce the temperature from 50 to 28-degree centigrade. Can you tell us about Al Rawabi’s Dairy museum? It is the only dairy museum in the Middle East. It is part of our initiative to attract school students and families to come to Al Rawabi to be educated. At the museum, they can learn about how dairy products were produced in the olden days. Afterwards, they can visit the farm to see the milking parlour, the automatic feeding of the cows, and interact with the calves. We have a program for children between five and twelve years in which they can have a personal connection with one of our calves. We send them information and photos on how it is growing, when it is being bred, when it is going to birth and so on. They can share this with others and also making a connection with us. What are your future plans for Al Rawabi? We have been working with Ministry of Health, and we have the forecasts on debilitating diseases that are going to affect the nation’s health in the future such as obesity, diabetes, hypertension and vitamin-D deficiency. We already have vitamin-D milk in the market, and we are developing other dairy products that are going to address the other issues. People are skipping breakfast as a meal, so we have calculated the requirements of the body for eight hours, and we will include them in a 200 ml bottle. On the production side, we are studying ways to increase automation, and on introducing more robots. So that’s where Al Rawabi is heading in the coming five years. 52 SEPT / OCT 2019
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REMEMBERING A BEAUTIFUL INNOVATION
Every year the Breguet brand celebrates one of its founder’s great inventions, the tourbillon
n year IX of the French Republican calendar, or June 26, 1801, in the Gregorian, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the rights for a patent by the French ministry of the interior for a new type of regulator called the “Tourbillon,” which is widely regarded today by mechanical watch aficionados as the most famous patent in horological history. Abraham-L ouis Breguet was bor n in Neuchâtel, Switzerland but made a name for himself as a watchmaker extraordinaire in Paris. Louis XVI and his Queen, MarieAntoinette, were his admirers, as was Napoleon Bonaparte. His timepieces were admired in courts across Europe. For Caroline Murat, queen of Naples, he conceived, in 1810, the world’s very first wristwatch. For the scientific, military, financial and diplomatic elites of the day, he was indispensable. T he tou r bi l lon wa s b y no mea ns Breg uet’s onl y technological breakthrough. On the contrary, each watch being produced in his workshop was a demonstration of the latest horological innovations. In the pre-revolution years, he developed the first successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, introduced gongs for repeating watches, and the first shock-
54 SEPT / OCT 2019
protection for balance pivots. During the revolution, he took refuge in Switzerland. With the establishment of the First French Republic, he returned to Paris, and he returned with a new fervour and new ideas that lead to the Breguet balance-spring, his first carriage clock which he sold to Bonaparte, the sympathique clock and its dependent watch, the tact watch, and finally the tourbillon. Because of his minute attention to detail and his constant experimentation, no two Breguet pieces are exactly alike. The most unique of them all, however, is the “Marie Antoinette;” now widely regarded as one of the most exceptional and most valuable timepieces ever made. Nearly 20 years in the making and astronomically expensive, the commission demanded that every watch function and complication known at that time be incorporated while using the most valuable materials, including gold, platinum, rubies and sapphires. Breguet was able to achieve such levels of technical proficiency because of another innovation that is now the industry standard. Instead of staffing his workshops with unskilled apprentices, as was the norm, he sought out the
finest watchmakers in Paris to make the watches he designed. For his achievements, he was appointed to the Board of Longitude, and as chronometer-maker to the navy, he entered the Academy of Sciences and received the Legion of Honour from the hands of Louis XVIII himself. Breguet’s tourbillon was conceived as a solution to the effect that gravity had on the regularity of horological movements in those days. That is, the variations in timing adjustment caused by a change in the watch’s position. So, he came up with the idea of installing the parts that were most sensitive to gravity inside a mobile carriage that performs a complete rotation each minute. The parts in question were the balance and spring, the lever and the escape-wheel, known collectively as the escapement. This arrangement had two benefits. One, since all the contradictory flaws are periodically repeated, it results in the process of mutual compensation. Secondly, the point of contact of the balance pivots are continually changing; therefore, their bearings experience more uniform lubrication. Breguet chose tourbillon as the name of his invention because the double rotation of the cage and its parts resembled a long-forgotten notion of a planetary system.
Breguet only sold 35 tourbillon watches in his lifetime, according to the brand, which hints at the extreme complexity involved in producing this unique mechanism in those days. Bringing the final production prototype to fruition was no easy task either. Even though the patent was granted in 1801, the entire development period – from conception to final prototype – began in 1795 and ended 1805. In 1806, at the National Exhibition of Industrial Products in Par is, Breguet unveiled his mar vellous invention to an awestruck public. Although many significant innovations have come since Breguet’s tourbillon that has resulted in mechanical watches delivering greater accuracy, it remains one of the great technological benchmarks of horological history. Moreover, it is, to this day, one of the most aesthetically enchanting mechanical movements ever conceived. As the custodian of Breguet’s tourbillon legacy, the House of Breguet invites fans, enthusiasts, and collectors to celebrate Tourbillon Day every year on June 26. On this day, Breguet boutiques across the globe offer visitors the chance to discover its collections and learn more about this unique complication. In Dubai, it was held at the brand’s Dubai Mall boutique.
2019 SEPT / OCT
Alain Crevet, President, S.T. Dupont 56 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
THE ART OF CUSTOMISATION
Global Citizen had a chat with Alain Crevet, President of S.T. Dupont, during his recent visit to Dubai
lain Crevet, President of the Management Board at S.T. Dupont, was in Dubai recently to unveil some of the maison’s latest offerings such as the ‘Crazy Diamonds’ collection featuring palladium, a re-imagining of the original ‘D-Initial’ pen in orange, the ‘Stones of Fortune’ collection of lighters featuring the work of gemstone sculptor Luis Alberto Quispe, and the Claude Monet Limited Edition Collection paying homage to the impressionist movement. Crevet was also introducing the distinctive new Hyperdome watch collection: “We wanted to come up with a truly original design, something distinctive, something really ‘cool’ but also a very heavy-duty ‘no problem’ type of watch,” Alain Crevet told Global Citizen at S.T. Dupont’s Dubai Mall boutique. “The movement is Swiss, but the watch is finished in France. What makes it really special is the sapphire crystal dome. We have sold a lot, and we are out of stock. The list price for the collection starts from 500 euros.” S.T. Dupont today manufactures a variety of luxury products, how did this mix of products come about? It was by coincidence, frankly speaking. As you know, S.T. Dupont company originally made travel cases, briefcases and other smaller sized items, all made from the finest leather
and filled with bespoke accessories such as flasks, perfumes, hairbrushes or whatever you needed. In 1936, an Indian Maharaja approached Mr Dupont and ordered a hundred small clutch evening bags. In each of these, he wanted a compartment for cosmetics and a gold lighter. Mr Dupont could have bought a hundred lighters from the market, but since he had his own workshop, he decided to manufacture them himself. This gave him the idea to produce more of them. Then, during the war, around 1945, the company did not have its usual supply of good quality leather or dyes. All they had was some aluminium and a little bit of silver and gold. So, he occupied his workers by making them produce lighters. Coincidently at that time, there were American soldiers in France using Zippo lighters, which was very basic. So, it was an excellent time to make and sell more sophisticated lighters. After the war, the lighter became so popular that almost every worker at the Dupont factory was making them. So, it was a pure coincidence that pushed S.T. Dupont into manufacturing luxury lighters. We started manufacturing pens in the 70s because Jackie Kennedy was a huge fan of Dupont lighters and she wanted a matching pen to go with the lighter. So, they made one just for her. Then they decide to make more of them to sell. So, 2019 SEPT / OCT
S.T. Dupont Black Gold Pen S.T. Dupont has always had good craftsman with fantastic know-how but were not very strategic or tactical minded. If customers asked them to do something, they would do it, and if there were demand for more, they would manufacture more of them to sell. Today, S.T. Dupont’s mix of products fall under the four “Arts of Living Well” - the Art of Fire, the Art of Writing, the Art of Travel, and the Art of Seduction. How did this come about? As I said, the products being sold by the Maison were the result of circumstance. When I first came, I saw that in our shop they had leather goods mixed with lighters mixed with pens and they even had some menswear which was crazy. I thought we needed a bit more discipline. So, I went back into the history of the brand and found two major arts: first, we had travel cases and inside them were such things as lighters or pens or small accessories like perfumes, glasses, etc. That gave me the idea that within the Art of Travelling you have the four arts. You have recently launched a dedicated site for Haute Creation, could you elaborate on that? The Haute Creation site [stduponthautecreation.com] is 58 SEPT / OCT 2019
linked with our main website, and there we will display about 90 per cent of all our haute creations up to now, including some incredible products that few have seen. There will be high-quality photos, history and interviews related to each piece. The creations listed on this site can be an inspiration for new customisation ideas. Clients can also log in and send a customisation request directly to our design team instead of going to the boutique. What type of customisations do you offer? Could you give us an example? Also, how does one avail these services? We started offering Haute Creation as a distinguished service almost ten-years ago. Until the launch of our Haute Creation website, the process started with the clients going to a boutique and presenting the manager with their ideas. Therefore, we always have skilled managers in our flagship boutiques. The boutique manager must be able to listen to the needs of the customers and then be able to communicate it to our design team in Paris. The designers make a few sketches and sometimes even a mock-up, and it is sent back to the client for approval. Once approved, it immediately goes to the Haute Creation workshop. For any Haute Creation piece, it usually
S. T. Dupont Monet Fountain Pen
takes, depending on the complexity, between two to three months. This is not very long when compared to some of the other ateliers. For example, we had an Eastern-Europe gentleman who was in the oil business. He wanted a desk piece with a fountain pen that moved and replicated a rig extracting the oil from the Earth. Also, then you had the ink bottle with black ink looking like an oil well. It was a unique piece called “Black Gold,” finished in solid gold and black lacquer. It was quite a clever piece of design and quite a challenge to create. We had exhibited its prototype at some shows where a couple of Texan oilmen liked it and asked if we would make pieces for them. We asked permission from the original client because, even though it was our design, it was his idea. He was ok with it as long as the finish was different. The new variant then we limited to 13 or 15 pieces worldwide. You recently launched the limited-edition Monet collection – what is the story behind it and could you elaborate on the craftsmanship involved? 1872 is the birth-year of our founder. It is also the birthyear of Impressionism because it was in this year that Monet painted the first official Impressionist painting called
“Impression, soleil levant (Impression, Sunrise). So, we recreated the painting in miniature, entirely using lacquer, on our lighters and pens. There is immense complexity as we have the golden-orange of the sun, to blue shades of the water and then you have the reflections on the water, the waves and the little boats of the original painting. Each piece is painted by hand, so they are all slightly different while being a miniature replica of the original. We will produce just 1872 pieces for the world. How important is this boutique or the region for S. T. Dupont, and what are your bestsellers by category? Very important. We’ve been in the Middle East region for a long time thanks to our good partnerships. Our new boutique in the Dubai Mall for the grand opening of which I came less than a year ago, is one of the best performing boutiques in the world. Globally, our number one seller by category is still the lighter, followed by the pen and at number three is leather. But here in the Middle East, the three are about equal. Pens have always had quite a strong demand in the region and equally good is the demand for the lighters. Then in a close number three is leather. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Jasmine Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors, Audemars Piguet 60 SEPT / OCT 2019
THE GRANDE DAME OF HOROLOGY
We sit down with Jasmine Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors at Audemars Piguet, for an exclusive at the Art Basel 2019 “
always wanted to be a journalist because I wanted to discover the world, to see how it really works. I loved every minute of it, both as a simple journalist and as an editor-in-chief for five years,” Jasmine Audemars told us with a deep sense of pride during an exclusive conversation. Jasmine, Chair woman of the Board of Directors at Audemars Piguet since 1992, is the great-granddaughter of Jules Louis Audemars, the co-founder of the only luxury Swiss watch manufacturer still in the hands of its founding families. Even though she was born into watchmaking royalty, she chose instead, not just to tread her own path, but to be the best at it. She left Le Brassus at 16 to study economics and pursue a career as a business journalist, at a time when few, if any, women were in that field. “I was the second woman hired by the daily newspaper Journal de Genève. It was founded in 1826 and, in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, it was the best daily newspaper. I had become its deputy editor at the age of 29, and I was its first woman editor-in-chief,” says Jasmine, the discreetly elegant 77-year-old matriarch of Audemars Piguet. Following a highly successful 23-year-career in Journalism and having accumulated profound insights into the ways of the world, she returned home to join the family business. “I was born into a watchmaking family. In our family home, I lived with my grandfather and my father, who were talking about watches all the time; every morning, every day, every night. So that was my family world. One day, when I was still working as a journalist, my father said: I want you to join the board, and then, after a few years, he wanted me to succeed him.”
Even though her father, and wellbeing of her family legacy beckoned, it was not an easy decision to make. She had deep roots in her chosen profession and a team that depended on her for direction. Following protracted self-analysis, she decided: “it’s time for a change in my life.” Then, “I said to my father: Okay, give me one year because I have to get organized. I mean, I couldn’t just say to my team’ bye-bye I’m going away.’ So, I prepared everything [for the handover] and returned to my family business.” As in her earlier profession, Jasmine did not take her place in the family business lightly. She was fully aware of the task at hand. “Audemars Piguet was co-founded by my great grandfather. So, it is a great responsibility, of course, but it is also a fascinating challenge.” Being a family business has its own set of challenges and its advantages. “In everything we decide, in everything we do, we always have a long-term view, just as the founders of this company had done, because we have been educated like that. It’s in my brain. It’s in my DNA,” says Jasmine; and therefore, “we are not under pressure to deliver results every quarter like the publicly held company. I think the worst thing that can happen to you is to become a public company, to have the pressure all the time. That is why we want to remain independent, to choose our own way.” She then adds, “We have been educated to think that Success is never forever, that we must always be ready to face the headwinds. That is why we have always remained low key to see how things develop. Then we progress, one step 2019 SEPT / OCT
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar 62 SEPT / OCT 2019
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked after the other. We come from the mountain. When you are a mountaineer, you learn to take one step after another, and your feet must be firmly on the ground before you take the next step. That’s the way we are.” The first significant step taken under Jasmine’s directorship was the launch of the Offshore collection. “When the Offshore was presented in 1993, Gérald Genta [Royal Oak’s designer] ran into the booth and yelled: What did you do with my Royal Oak?,” recalls Jasmine, alluding to the revolutionary nature of the collection that redefined watch dimensions and aesthetics. Then she adds, “This is nothing new for us. In 72, when the Royal Oak was launched. Everybody came to look, and on their way out they shook their head and said: They will be the next to die.” Earlier this year, Jasmine has, quite successfully, overseen what might be considered Audemars Piguet’s most significant step since the Royal Oak; the development and launch of the all-new Code 11.59 range. “With the Code 11.59, we wanted to make a statement: This is what we are able to do. A collection that has 13 references and six new calibres, of which, three are completely new,” says Jasmine with a deep sense of pride. Once again there was the usual negativity towards the Code 11.59 range, from critics and conservative collectors; which has since turned positive. “People could not comprehend
it,” explains Jasmine, “so they seemed to have interpreted it negatively. Then, when they go into a boutique and see it, you start to see comments like ‘it’s not as ugly as I thought’ or ‘It’s a lot more interesting than I have been told’.” Apart from AP, Jasmine is also the chairwoman of the board of the AP Foundation, a separate entity from the watch company but one that is a stakeholder in it. “It is not as a marketing tool,” she is quick to clarify. “It was created in 1992 by my father. He wanted to create something that would last a long time for the conservation of the forest and for the education of children on the environment. Today, we are working in more than 44 countries. The only place where we haven’t been to is Australia because we didn’t get any project from Australia, but it will come.” Speaking about the future, Jasmine says, “The demand for our kind of watches is still growing because you have in the world of today, despite everything, more and more people that have the means to buy a watch like AP. So, we have to offer them not only a beautiful product, but also a holistic experience. That’s why we like to take them to Le Brassus, where we have the museum, and will have the hotel that we are currently building. This is so that they can see everything about the watches, its history, and that they come from a special place. They have to know that an Audemars Piguet watch is not just simply a watch.” 2019 SEPT / OCT
HOROLOGICAL SCULPTURE IN BRONZE
A closer look at what Breguet will be offering at this year’s Only Watch charity auction
nly Watch, an exceptional auction sale conducted by Christie’s, will be held in Geneva for the benefit of medical research on muscular dystrophy on November 9, 2019. Marc A. Hayek, President of Montres Breguet, will once again make a contribution by offering the one-of-a-kind Type 20 Only Watch 2019. This biannual event is an initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Association Monégasque Contre les Myopathies and is held under the patronage of HRH Prince Albert II of Monaco. Since it began in 2005, more than 40 million Swiss Francs have been collected and around 50 brands represented. It is the premier international charity event of the watchmaking world. The funds raised will entirely be donated to scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and on Duchenne muscular dystrophy, in particular. For this year’s auction, the 8th edition, Breguet pays homage to its aviation heritage by reissuing a unique version of its Type 20 pilot chronograph from the 1950s in a form that is very faithful to the original, both aesthetically and mechanically.
64 SEPT / OCT 2019
From 1918 onwards, the House of Breguet provided several timepieces for the American Air Force and in 1922 for the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, a company founded by a descendant of the brand’s founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. These instruments gradually became chronographs with counters and tachometers, which could either be worn by the pilots or affixed to the plane’s dashboard. Breguet continued to innovate and offer increasingly sophisticated chronographs to various aviation and aircraft companies. However, the most important chapter in the history of the Breguet pilot watch, according to the brand, began with the Type XX. In the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defence drew up specifications for chronograph wristwatches it planned to procure for its Air Force pilots, to be known as Type 20. Drawing on its experience in this area, Breguet expressed interest and designed a model that was approved in 1954. The Type 20 was equipped with a flyback chronograph, the emblematic function of this watch. The flyback function allows for the chronograph function to be reset to zero by simply pressing the lower push-button, simplifying the pilot’s operations and offering the possibility of recording several
Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 consecutive times. In the house’s books, the military models are referred to as Type 20 while the civilian models as Type XX. The civilian variant evolved through three successive generations and are highly sought-after collectables. In the 2019 variant, the steel case preserves the historical diameter of 38.30 mm, the unique curved horns with lateral bevel, and the pear-shaped crown, typical of the firstgeneration military models delivered to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. The new model is equipped, also for historical accuracy, with a bidirectional bezel in fluted steel without graduations, along with triangular markings for flight calculations. The dial of the watch is inspired by the very rare civilian and military models with a bronze-coloured dial sold at the time. Some black dials also took on a shade of bronze after prolonged exposure to the sun. The 2019 variant displays small seconds and a 30-minute totalizer, offering sharp legibility in all conditions. It sports the distinctive hands of the historical Type XX watches but treated with Super-LumiNova, as well as the large Arabic numerals. A notable difference between the
2019 watch and the Air Force’s historical model is the Breguet signature at 12 o’clock. The 2019 Type 20 is faithful to the original in its movement as well. The Valjoux 235 13 lignes is derived directly from the Valjoux 222 14 lignes used in the 1950s. The movement blank of this manually wound, column-wheel chronograph was restored back to working order, so as to ensure the new Type 20 is endowed with the same proportions and functions. This movement is also fitted with the flyback function, without which it could never be a true Type 20 pilot chronograph. It has 45-hours of power reserve, 183 components, in-line Swiss lever escapement, an annular balance wheel and flat balance spring. Also, like the original, the 2019 Type 20 is equipped with a steel screw-down caseback, which offers water resistance up to 30 meters. The strap is calfskin leather that matches the bronze of the dial. On the caseback, the owner of this exclusive watch will find an inscription that reads: “Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Pièce Unique”. This model will be offered in a presentation box shaped like an aeroplane’s wing. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Radiomir Panerai GMT Power Reserve 66 SEPT / OCT 2019
A TRIBUTE TO FORM AND FUNCTION
We sort through this year’s Radiomir and Luminor Due models presented by Officine Panerai
fficine Panerai’s Radiomir line references the earliest examples of the brand’s military watches, dating from the 1930s. They often have large dials with the generally minimalist and classic design aesthetic. The Luminor line was born in the 1940s when Panerai used its patented tritium-based alloys to construct its cases. This was followed by a slew of other patented materials. In the 1950s the signature crown lock was introduced. In 2016, Luminor Due was introduced featuring smaller, thinner cases and more elaborate designs for a whole new collector base that also includes women. This year, Panerai added six new models to the Luminor Due collection and has turned green for its four Radiomir models. The six Luminor Due models are offered in three case sizes: three in 38 mm, two in 42 mm and one in 45 mm. Three of the models feature brushed titanium - for the case, bezel, crown-protection, clasp buckle and 12-sided press-fit back – in combination with a deep-blue dial featuring satiné Soleil decoration and a matching deep-blue, semi-matte alligator strap with beige sewing. This combination appears in all three case sizes. The second combination, available in the 38 and 42 mm, features polished stainless steel with a white dial. The 38mm case is fastened with a Taupe-brown strap with beige sewing, while the 42 mm case has a dark brown “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather with beige stitching. A third premium combination, available only in 38mm, features Panerai’s patented polished Goldtech combined with a white dial. It is fastened with a beautifully polished, shiny red Alligator strap with tone-on-tone sewing. The caseback is a 12-sided press-fit in polished Goldtech with a sapphire crystal porthole. All six models have Arabic numerals and markers in beige Super-LumiNova with green luminescence; Quick Release system for changing straps; power reserve up to three days; water-resistance up to 30 metres; built-in anti-shock device. All the 38 and 42 mm models are powered by the 4.2mm thick P.900 calibre, one of the thinnest automatic movements to be developed at Panerai’s Manufacture. It is also the first calibre with automatic winding to offer a date display in these two case sizes. The Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve, Panerai’s first 45 mm watch, is the technical pinnacle of the collection and is only available in the brushed titanium and deep-blue combination. It is powered by the P.4002 calibre with a thickness of just 4.8 mm. In addition to the hours, minutes, small seconds and date presented on the other models, this one also has indicators for GMT, 24-hours with am/pm, power reserve and has zero seconds reset.
Panerai, founded in Florence in 1860 as a workshop, shop and school of watchmaking, had for many decades supplied the Italian Navy with precision instruments and watches. The watches developed by Panerai - featuring the signature “cushion” case design - were covered by the Military Secrets Act, and therefore, were not sold to the public until 1993. Panerai’s Radiomir collection pays tribute to this unique heritage of the brand. This year, it returns to the colour green, after the brand’s original Bronzo in 2011, followed by the Harrods Special Edition and the trio of Limited Editions in 2017. This year’s Radiomir collection - built around a matt finish military green dial - is the first by Panerai not to be offered as part of a limited edition. However, they will only be available exclusively at Panerai boutiques. The “green” Radiomir collection comprises four models, each with different dimensions and calibre combinations: the 45MM has a 45mm diameter case with and thickness of 12.2 mm within which is the 3.95 mm thick P.4000 Calibre; the GMT – 45 MM is 13.95 mm thick with the 5.04 mm thick P.4001 calibre; the GMT Power Reserve – 45 MM also has a 13.95 mm thick case, but with the 4.8 mm thick P.4002 calibre; the 48 MM has a 16.12 mm thick case with the 5.3 mm thick hand-wound mechanical P.3000 Calibre. The three 45 MM models have polished steel case and clasp buckle, case-back is sapphire crystal, and their calibres have automatic winding with off-centred bidirectional micro-rotor in tungsten alloy. The 48 MM has Sandblasted matt black ceramic case and bezel while the case-back is smoked sapphire crystal. For all four models, the matt-green of the dial with sandwich construction is contrasted by Arabic numerals and markers in beige Super-LumiNova with green luminescence. A domed sapphire crystal covers the dial, and the winding crown is personalised with the OP logo. They all have a power reserve of three days with water-resistance up to 100 metres. All four models have the hours, minutes and small seconds hands. However, the GMT-45 MM and the GMT Power Reserve-45 MM also have date indication at 3 o’clock; GMT, 24h-sub-dial with am/pm at 9 o’clock; power reserve indicator at 5 o’clock. On the back is the seconds reset. The strap of the 45MM and the GMT Power Reserve is dark brown “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather with beige sewing, while on the 48 MM, the “Ponte Vecchio” calf leather is black. On the GMT – 45 MM, the strap is light brown “Assolutamente” suede calf leather with beige stitching. All four models come with additional beige canvas strap with green stitching. 2019 SEPT / OCT
NORSE FOLKLORE BECOMES REALITY
Aston Martin recently took the first ‘dynamic concept’ of its latest hypercar for a run around Silverstone
68 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
Aston Martin Valkyrie (L) and Valhalla (R) Â©Dean Smith 2019 SPRING / SUMMER
Aston Martin Valhalla ©Dean Smith
n August 16, on an overcast Silverstone track, Aston Martin’s third and latest mid-engined hyper-car Valhalla made its debut as a working model. Inspired by Aston Martin’s Valkyrie project, it incorporates concepts and technologies taken directly from F1, through the close involvement of Red Bull Advanced Technologies in its design and engineering. First referred to as Project 003 and then as AM-RB 003, few details are available about the highly anticipated Valhalla. Strictly limited to 500 coupes worldwide, the programme remains oversubscribed as Aston Martin continues to handpick and finalise the list of customers who will have the opportunity to own this extraordinary machine. Following its debut, Valhalla was joined on the famed Grand Prix circuit by its elder sibling, Valkyrie, the first of the three midengined cars. From it was derived the second model -the track-
Aston Martin Valkyrie ©Dean Smith 70 SEPT / OCT 2019
only Valkyrie AMR Pro. Valhalla shares the same fundamental styling and aerodynamic philosophy as the Valkyrie but has a more pronounced front keel and a larger rear diffuser. While the bulk of the downforce is generated by the underfloor, Valhalla will also benefit from next-generation aircraft morphing technology, to create a variable airfoil across the entirety of the rear wing. Like the Valkyrie, Valhalla is expected to hit staggering performance numbers thanks to an all-new “F1-inspired” turbocharged V-6 engine, coupled with a hybrid system. This means that Valhalla will not be borrowing from Valkyrie in the power-train department, but instead, will have a completely new system developed in-house. The marque has confirmed that Valhalla will not be a plug-in hybrid. To give a sense of the numbers we can expect from the Valhalla, here are Valkyrie’s numbers. The 6.5-litre naturally aspirated V12 engine tailored by Cosworth has a power output
Aston Martin Valkyrie ©Dean Smith of 1,130 hp at 10,500 rpm. With a weight of just 1,030 kg, it has a better than 1:1 power-to-weight ratio. It can accelerate to 100 kmph from standstill in just 2.5 seconds. The power is delivered by a 7-speed paddle-shift transmission constructed by Ricardo, while a Rimac-built hybrid battery system functions as a KERS system. Although few details of Valhalla’s new engine have emerged, we have been informed that it will feature an innovative lubrication system that can drain the lubricant in less than 90 seconds, while the lubricant itself can be refined and reused. Given that Valhalla’s development team is made up of F1 specialists, we can expect the new hyper-car to follow in the footsteps of Valkyrie, or even better, when it comes to delivering exceptional handling and stability. However, Valhalla is expected to be more of a practical, road use car than its predecessor with slightly less extreme performance numbers. While the Valkyrie is considered to be in
the same league as the AMG One, the Valhalla is expected to be a direct competitor to the likes of McLaren Senna. The interior underneath the high-visibility cockpit houses two seats and, we are informed, filled with “space-age” materials. The interior is minimalist in design to reduce weight and distractions. To this effect, the screen has been mounted on the steering column. Ambient lighting, air vents and speakers are discreetly integrated into a strip that runs the width of the dash. The centre console is thin with few switches. Storage is minimal with one behind the seats for light luggage and another for small items such as smartphones or booklets. Aston Martin Valkyrie testing continues at pace, ahead of the first delivery. Valhalla, meanwhile, has taken a massive step forward with the successful demonstration of the ‘dynamic concept.’ Aston Martin has not stated when Valhalla will be available to the 500 customers or what the actual price tag will be.
Aston Martin Valhalla ©Dean Smith 2019 SEPT / OCT
2019 Mini John Cooper Works (JCW) Convertible
IT’S ABOUT THE JOY OF DRIVING
The 2019 Mini Convertible gets the John Cooper Works treatment
ohn Cooper Works, or simply JCW, is a tuning and accessories specialist for the Mini range of models. It was founded by Michael Cooper, the son of John Cooper - the racing car tuner responsible for the original Mini Cooper which astonished everyone by winning the Monte Carlo Rally three times - in 1964, 1965 and 1967. It was also voted “European Car of the Century,” by a panel of 130 international automotive journalists. The second generation of the Cooper name specialises in creating high-performance upgrades and sporty body kits for the second generation of the Mini. The Mini-Cooper badge has given us some delectable examples of small, fun and dynamic cars over the last two decades, perpetually the R series - R52, R53, R55, R56 and R57 – and the Cooper Works variants. The latest is a convertible, the 2019 Mini John Cooper Works (JCW) Convertible to be precise, and it is based, as always, on the standard convertible. Interior space is at a premium in any Mini variant, but in the convertible, it is at its most. The Mini is, therefore, not for those who place a premium on space; it is for those who are in search of pure, old-school driving fun. The portion of the trunk space is taken up by roof mechanism. The front seats are deep and well-bolstered to hold the occupants in place through the tight bends but are soft enough to offer comfort for everyday use and without being a hindrance
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when getting in and out of the car. Customers have the option of choosing between the Classic, Signature and Iconic trims. The rear seats are also bolstered. The centre console features an armrest and a cupholder. The steering wheel adds to the sporty nature of the car as it is thick for a confident grip, and it is slightly on the heavier side for better feedback. Under the hood is a turbocharged 2.0-litre, inline four-cylinder, direct-injection engine with double VANOS which produces 231 hp or 170 kW between 5,200 and 6,000 rpm. It produces 320 Nm of Torque between 1,450 and 4,800 rpm. The JCW is available with an option of a six-speed manual or eight-speed automatic transmission, both of which send power to the front wheels. The manual variant can deliver a 0-100 kmph acceleration in 6.5 seconds, while the automatic can hit the same mark in 6.3 seconds. Top speed is reported to be at 240 kmph. Of course, the JCW Mini’s real asset does not show up on any stats – it’s handling. It comes, as standard, with sport tunes suspension to confidently handle any curvy road. However, softer suspension settings are available upon request. As always with any Cooper, the list of customisations is extensive, to say the least. The infotainment system has received an upgrade, and Apple CarPlay is now available. Among the features available, we have adaptive dampers, an Active Driving Assistant and a 12-speaker Harman Kardon audio system.
2019 SEPT / OCT
A NEW BEGINNING FOR A HISTORIC MARQUE
Lincoln debuts Nautilus; its renamed, redesigned and repackaged mid-size SUV 74 SEPT / OCT 2019
Lincoln Nautilus 2019 2019 SEPT / OCT
or the 2019 model year, Lincoln has undertaken a significant upgrade of their mid-size SUV by adapting the design language of the newly introduced Continental and Navigator, as well as giving it a new name â€“ Nautilus, replacing the MKX. The Nautilus also has a new turbocharged engine lineup and offers the Lincoln Co-Pilot360 driver-assist package as standard. The new Nautilus exterior aligns with the rest of the Lincoln lineup, notably the grille, which features the new Lincoln star mesh design which replaces the split-wing grille of the old MKX. Its sleek lines are aesthetically pleasing while being aerodynamically efficient. Its new wheel design adds to its appeal. Inside, the spacious cabin is designed to be quiet and comfortable with a minimalist look. Acoustic side glass reduces
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wind noise for rear passengers, while new engineering solutions decrease the sound generated from the road. On the high-end Reserve models, Ultra Comfort seats are offered as standard for the driver and front passenger. These seats can be adjusted up to 22 ways and offer lumbar massage designed to reduce fatigue. Heated and cooled seats are also available. Lincolnâ€™s Presidential interior packages are for clients seeking a higher level of personalisation through premium materials in specially curated designer themes. The Nautilus debuts the Gala Presidential package, inspired by the high-fashion atmosphere of New Yorkâ€™s Met Gala. The package features seats draped in deeply hued, elegant Carmine and Onyx leather, complemented by the lustre of Nouveau Armour aluminium accents. Two of the classic Presidential packages are also available for the Nautilus: Chalet - with Espresso and Alpine Venetian leathers and deep
Silverwood appliqués - and Thoroughbred - with Rich Venetian leathers, Chilean Maple wood, Alcantara accents and Jet-Black trim. The sleek, flow design of the centre console adds to the airy ambience, while seamlessly integrating the push-button gear shift with the knobs and buttons of the other functions. Its centrepiece is the large touch screen that serves as a portal to SYNC 3, which makes it easy to listen to music, handle phone calls and other functions. The system, which is Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Waze and Alexa compatible, can be controlled through simple voice commands or via the controls on the steering wheel. Audio can be enjoyed with either the 13-speaker or the 19-speaker Revel audio system. Concealed at the bottom of the centre console is a wireless charging pad for compatible smartphones. Ahead of the driver is the gracefully curved 12.3” digital instrument cluster that can be controlled using the controls on the hand-stitched, leatherwrapped steering wheel. The Lincoln Co-Pilot360, which debuts on the Nautilus as standard, bundles several popular driver-assist features that were previously available only as separate options. It comprises
of technologies such as Blind Spot Information System which uses radar to alert drivers of approaching vehicles entering their blind spot by flashing an indicator light; Cross-Traffic Alert which warns drivers of traffic approaching from the sides when backing out of a parking spot or driveway; Pre-collision Assist with automatic emergency braking; auto high beams; a lanekeeping system and a rear-view camera. In addition, the Nautilus offers a whole host of other driver-assists as standard and as optional. The Nautilus offers a choice of two turbocharged engines that deliver smooth power through three advanced technologies: turbocharging, direct injection and twin independent variable camshaft timing. A powerful 2.7-litre turbocharged engine delivers 335 horsepower and 515 Nm of torque, while the standard is a 250-horsepower 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo. Both engines include standard Auto Start-Stop capability, plus a new eight-speed automatic transmission. To add to Lincoln’s premium factor, Al Tayer Motors introduces the ‘Lincoln to You’ service, whereby a service advisor will arrive at the customer’s chosen time and location, with the vehicle they wish to test drive. 2019 SEPT / OCT
RECLUSIVELY EXCLUSIVE Anguilla is now offering access to refined living and optimized freedom with two new Residency-by-Investment programmes
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ou’re floating in the azure blue seas, surrounded by lush greenery, the sun is beaming, and you let out a sigh of absolute tranquillity. This oasis is your home. Anguilla, the exquisite British overseas territory in the Caribbean has become the ultimate destination where luxurious living meets financial freedom. Anguilla’s two Residency-by-Investment Programmes bring opportunity within and freedom beyond for ultra-high-net-worth individuals (UHNWI) whose lifestyle is unbound to a single location. Becoming a tax resident, or a permanent resident of Anguilla grants these individuals—including business moguls, athletes, celebrities, and jetsetters alike— the liberty to live efficiently, conveniently, and seamlessly. In addition to the new programmes, an official agency was established by the government to manage and oversee the initiatives. Supported by a consortium of key players from the investment migration industry’s most experienced firms, Arton Capital and Latitude Group, the consortium successfully launched Select Anguilla. Despite being relatively new, Select Anguilla has established itself as an agency centered on trust and has officiated a legitimate government-UHNWI relationship. Effectuating stringent and thorough due diligence processes, ensures optimized benefits for both the investor and the government and brings significant legitimacy and integrity to the programmes. “Select Anguilla not only ensures that the programmes are an attractive option for the UHNWI, but one of the select few crafted to encompass all their needs,” shared Armand Arton, Founder
and President of Arton Capital. As Anguillan residents, investors and their families will benefit from the island’s attractive tax regime. A well-regulated jurisdiction for wealth preservation—boasting no direct taxation, income tax, capital gains tax, inheritance tax or corporate taxation— Anguilla offers exceptional benefits to allow businesses to thrive. Additionally, after five years of permanent residency, investors are eligible to become British Overseas Territories Citizens, and can then apply for full British citizenship. Residents of Anguilla enjoy a relaxed way of life, with a wide array of luxury properties positioned just a stone’s throw from the island’s beautiful beaches, bluffs and bays. And with Anguilla’s carefully considered approach to development, the island’s natural vegetation still embellishes its brilliant white coast, while crystal clear water surrounds the island on all sides, providing a pristine playground for water-sports enthusiasts and yachtsmen. The pace of life may be a little slower, but Anguilla’s modern telecommunication and business networks are fast and reliable. Multiple operators offer access to the island-wide fibre optic connection for high-speed internet, making it easy to conduct business while enjoying the Anguillan lifestyle. As one of the first innovative solutions for the UHNW to expand business and lifestyle opportunities through an optimal residence, Select Anguilla offers empowering benefits to investors and their families, including the freedom of movement they need, the independence they desire, and the luxury of calling the most idyllic place their home. 2019 SEPT / OCT
Tax Residency In addition to establishing links to Anguilla, such as bank accounts and memberships, as well as demonstrating the ability to readily transfer the first five years of tax payments, tax residents in Anguilla must satisfy the following requirements: • Pay US$75,000 per year in annual worldwide income tax to Anguilla’s Treasury. • Own and maintain property in Anguilla valued over US$400,000. • Spend a minimum of 45 days in Anguilla each year. • Declare to not having spent over 183 days a year in any other sole country. Permanent Residency To acquire permanent residency in Anguilla, applicants must fulfil one of the two following investment options:
Real Estate Investment • To qualify for a family of 4, the minimum value of the property must be US$750,000 at the time of application • Each additional dependent will require an additional investment of US$100,000 • The property cannot be sold within 5 years of the purchase date Donation to Capital Development Fund • The Capital Development Fund is a government fund established to finance public sector projects that grow, develop, and diversify Anguilla’s economy. The minimum contributions required are as follows: • Main Applicant: US$150,000 • Spouse, and/or dependents: US$50,000 each • Additional processing and due diligence fees are applicable. To learn more about Anguilla’s Residency-by-Investment Programmes, visit selectanguilla.com.
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N EW RE S I DE NCY PR O GR AMME S NOW AVA IL A BLE
Select Anguilla is a governmental agency which promotes and supports relocation to Anguilla for personal, business or fiscal optimization 2019purposes. SEPT / OCT All advice is confidential and provided free of charge to individuals.
SNEAKERS WORTH A BILLION DOLLARS A look at StockX and other businesses catering to the sneaker collecting subculture
n June, StockX announced that it had raised $110 million in the third round of funding that increased the company’s valuation to $1 billion, thus achieving ‘unicorn’ status. If one does not identify oneself as a “sneakerhead,” or is not familiar with this social phenomenon, then this may come as something of a surprise. As an investor, however, the consumer market segment in which StockX operates may be one to keep an eye on in the near future. On July 24, a pair of used 1972 Nike Waffle Racing Flat’ Moon Shoe’ sold for $437,500 during an online-only ‘Sothebys x Stadium Goods’ auction. The other 99 limited-edition sneakers in the lot were purchased by a Canadian bidder for $850,000. Sneakerheads have been around since the 1980s when they became an essential component of the youth streetwear culture in America. Its birth can be attributed to the merging of two streams: One was the ever-increasing pop-culture status of basketball shoes, particularly with the launch of Nike’s Air Jordans in 1985. The other stream was the growth of hip-hop music and its street fashion defining music videos in which streetwear and sneakers were essential components. While manufacturers flooded the market with ever more elaborately designed sneakers, the music videos promoted them and gave them credibility. With their own vocabulary, brand loyalties and much sought after limited editions, Sneakerheads have evolved into a proper collecting subculture. It proliferated with the advent of online after-market commerce sites such as eBay, complemented by social media as a marketing platform. The next stage in the evolution of the Sneakerhead market was the arrival of specialist merchandisers catering to the niche market. The aforementioned Stadium Goods is a four-year-old consignment reseller of rare or limited-edition sneakers. Even though it has a 3,000-square-foot Stadium Goods store in New York’s SoHo - full of sneakers with premium price tags, with some of them housed in individual glass cases - Stadium Goods dominant sales channel is through online commerce sites such as Alibaba. One of the keys to their success was their early entry into the Chinese market - one of the fastest-growing. GOAT (Greatest Of All Time), also founded in 2015, is a smartphone app-centric marketplace using a “ship-to-verify” model, whereby a seller sends a sold product to GOAT for verification before it is shipped to the buyer. GOAT has raised over $90 million in investment for the likes of Accel Partners, Upfront Ventures and Ashton Kutcher. In 2017, GOAT merged with Flight Club, another specialist sneaker merchandiser brand
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that had been in operation for over a decade. The combined enterprise is valued at over $250 million. StockX, even though the youngest of the premium sneaker specialists mentioned here, it has raced ahead in terms of valuations and has already attracted high profile investors such as Mark Wahlberg and rapper Eminem. It was founded in 2016 by Josh Luber with the financial backing of Cleveland Cavaliers owner Dan Gilbert. Josh Luber is a 40-year-old sneakerhead who has been collecting since he was eight years old. He now has admitted to having more than 400 pairs displayed in a dedicated “shoe room” at his residence where pride of place goes to such prized novelties as Air Jordan 1s and Air Max 90s. Luber used to be a consultant with IBM before launching Campless, a database of premium sneakers. StockX is an online trading platform similar to the stock and commodities exchanges around the world, where traders buy and sell listed goods based on a centralised ticker price that fluctuates based on supply and demand. Starting with sneakers, StockX now lists luxury streetwear, handbags and watches. Here, instead of buying shares in Nike or Adidas, trades buy and sell Air Jordans, Adidas Yeezys, Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre, Gold Casio G-Shock, Louis Vuitton Pochette or a Chanel Gabrielle Hobo Bag. Each product listed on StockX has a ticker symbol and accompanying marker statistics. The goods listed on StockX now have a collective value of over $1 billion. StockX’s business is founded on the peculiar nature of supply and demand in the luxury goods collectors’ market, which makes them similar in nature to commodities and equity, and therefore, can be traded similarly. StockX not only connects trades who want to buy and sell pre-owned luxury goods but also offers brand new ones through “IPOs” where a brand’s new products are launched through StockX, precisely like an equity IPO. To add more security and improve transparency, StockX has incorporated an authenticity program similar to GOAT. StockX is also betting on the brick-and-mortar channel as it plans to open a store in London, which will also be the location of its first headquarters outside the US. It is betting on the burgeoning European sneaker market that is already estimated to be worth around £200 million. The sneaker market is not only growing in terms of valuations but is also spreading geographically. Asia has proven itself while Africa promises excellent growth potential, according to Luber. No wonder serious equity funds, as well as European luxury group LVMH, have invested in the industry.
2019 SEPT / OCT
84 SEPT / OCT 2019
THE FUTURE IS SUSTAINABLE
The fashion industry’s move towards a more sustainable future gathers momentum
his year, 2019, may prove to be a watershed year for the fashion industry, when it began moving earnestly towards a more ethical and sustainable future. In December 2018, stakeholders in the industry - including premium brands such as Adidas AG, PVH Corp, Kering Group, Nike, Puma, Burberry, H&M Group, Hugo Boss AG, Levi Strauss, and Stella McCartney to name a few - committed to the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, which outlines a vision to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. While activist-designers have been pushing the ethical and sustainable fashion business model for some time now, the charter is the first industry-wide commitment to the cause. Sustainability is no longer a “fringe” or “niche” part of the industry. It has moved to the center and forward position. However, one should not expect drastic changes to occur instantaneously. Like changing the course of a massive oil-tanker is a slow, delicate process that needs careful planning, so is changing the course of an industry. There are numerous stakeholders from the producers of raw materials to manufacturers, retailers and consumers, all interlocked in a complex web of commercial relationships. The fashion industry is highly competitive, where brands are under constant pressure to deliver something fresh every season. The fashion consumer, meanwhile, is driven by impulse and ego to own the latest “in-thing,” rather than rational consumption based on need. These two factors result in massive quantities of surplus; as inventories on the manufacturers’ side and as little-used wardrobe fillers on the consumer side. Both of which often end up in landfills. According to a 2015 EPA report, the amount of “Clothing and Footwear” that was generated between 1960 and 2015 increased nearly nine-times from 1.3 to 11.94 million U.S. tons, comprising mainly textiles, rubber and leather. Even though the amount of “Clothing and Footwear” being recycled in the same period had increased - from 50,000 to 3.7 million UST - it pales in comparison to the 8.2 million UST that ended up in landfills in 2015. Added to this is the sociological and environmental problems associated with a manufacturing model that spans the globe. From the distress among GMO cotton farmer in India to the toxic chemicals used in the manufacture of textiles, or the death of textile workers in Bangladesh due to the collapse of poorly construed factories, the list is extensive. On the manufacturing and sales side of the equation, there are two broad channels through which environmental sustainability is being tackled. One involves legacy brands modifying their business processes. LVMH, for example, views protecting the environment as “not simply an obligation, but an imperative and a source of competitiveness.” In May, the group announced a five-
year partnership with UNESCO to support Man and Biosphere (MAB) biodiversity program to achieve the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Kering’s 2025 Sustainability Strategy stands on three pillars: Care, Collaborate, Create. It involves creating innovative alternatives, applying stringent standards to existing processes, closer collaboration with stakeholders to ensure better environmental, ethical and social performance, as well as using an open-source approach to drive change in the industry. PVH announced this year a slew of measures including a 30 per cent reduction in emissions along its supply chain by 2030, as well as a greater focus on workers’ rights through the ACT initiative. Adidas and H&M have published the names and addresses of their manufacturers, subcontractors, and suppliers. The second channel towards sustainability involves completely new brands that are built on sustainability models such as eco-fashion, upscaling and slow-fashion. These are mere ‘fads’ among the young designers and consumers of the Millennials and Generation Z. The latter, in particular, have a greater tendency towards individualism and demand greater social responsibility from the brands they associate with. Out of the 20 semifinalists at this year’s LVMH Prize, which honors and supports young fashion designers, most were from the sustainable fashion universe; working with deadstock or using sustainable, upcycled recycled materials. Stella McCartney, one of the pioneers and leaders of this new approach to fashion, demonstrated its various aspects in her fall collection this year. There was the #thereshegrows campaign to raise awareness of the Leuser Ecosystem in Indonesia where around 150 million trees are logged each year to make fabric. She used viscose from sustainably managed forests in Sweden; strips of vintage tees were used as yarn to knit a multicolour sack dress; fabric from previous collections was used to create the quilted detailing on frocks; earrings from paperclips and a long necklace featuring rubber bands. Then there are brands such as Allbirds, a silicon valley startup that claims to make “the world’s most comfortable shoes.” It sells sneakers made using merino wool, laces from recycled plastic bottle and insoles that contain castor bean oil. Its huge success has prompted the company to make shoes using eucalyptus fibre as a summer and rain alternative. They will require only five per cent of the resources needed to make traditional leather, plastic or rubber shoes. The fashion industry, no doubt, has many knots in a tangled web to undo on its journey to a sustainable future. However, with the momentum provided by the heavyweights of the industry, and increasing awareness among the consumers, designers and innovators among the younger generation, the shift towards sustainability seems a set course. 2019 SEPT / OCT
A SENSE OF STYLE PAR EXCELLENCE
The story of Carine Roitfeld, one of the great influencers of the fashion industry in the last three decades “
arine Roitfeld has transcended the boundaries of culture and style over the past three decades to build an everexpanding global brand,” reads a statement by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Carine is the recipient of this year’s CFDA Founder’s Award. It was presented to her at this year’s CFDA Fashion Awards, which honours excellence in the fashion industry, and has been dubbed the ‘Oscars of fashion.’ In the 1990s, Carine, Mario Testino and Tom Ford were in a collaborative partnership that is credited with defining the fashion aesthetic of that decade. In the following two decades, her creative contributions led her to be regarded as one of the most influential figures in fashion. Born in Paris, in 1954, Carine is the daughter of Jaques Roitfeld, a film producer of Russian origin. She has described her father as her idol but that he was often away filming. Her mother was a very classic Frenchwoman, according to Carine. She grew up in the bourgeois 16th arrondissement of Paris. Carine’s journey into the world of high fashion began through an undistinguished modelling career. At the age of 18, she was discovered on the streets of Paris by a British photographer’s assistant. However, she mostly appeared in junior fashion magazines. She then joined the French edition of Elle magazine as a writer and stylist where she would spend the next 15 years. Then in 1990, came the moment that would trigger the upward trend in her professional life. By then, she had given birth to her daughter, Julia Restoin Roitfeld (b1980) and son Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld (b1984) with her long-time partner Christian Restoin, the founder of the Equipment clothing line. She was working as a freelance stylist at a children’s fashion shoot for Italian Vogue Bambini where her daughter Julia was also modelling. The shoot was being photographed by Mario Testino. The two hit it off and began collaborating as a stylist-photographer duo. They did advertisements as well as assignments for American and French Vogue magazines, and their stock was rising fast. Tom Ford, then an aspiring designer at a struggling Gucci, was impressed by the duo and invited them to help him revive the brand. The three worked together on advertisement campaigns, and runway shows that have become part of industry folklore. They were sexually bold, unorthodox in style and often controversial. Carine once said that she was like the “feminine continuity” of Tom Ford when explaining their close working relationship.
In 2001, Jonathan Newhouse of Condé Nast International, the parent company of Vogue approached Carine to become the editor-in-chief of its flagging French edition. Although she had no experience in managing people, as per her own admission, she accepted the offer precisely because it was a challenge, it would force her to learn and to grow. She began by changing the magazine’s name to Vogue Paris. Under her decade long stewardship, advertising revenue increased significantly, as did readership. She styled many of the shoots and models instead of celebrities appeared on the cover. As the decade before, the boldness and the willingness to challenge the established order were evident. In January 2010, she was named in Tatler magazine’s top10 best-dressed list. The following year, she left Vogue Paris to return to styling with a roster of clients which included the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Barneys New York. She also began work on her biannual style publication CR Fashion Book with the support of Stephen Gan’s Fashion Media Group. It was later complemented by CR Mens. The creative process that went into the creation of the first edition of CR Fashion Book is chronicled in the documentary film ‘Mademoiselle C.’ It offers a rare behind-the-scenes look at the workings of this highly creative person as well as the fashion industry, as a whole. In 2012, she returned to publishing, this time as the global fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar. In 2016, Carine partnered with her son Vladimir to launch CR Studio, a creative and endto-end production house for a broad range of clients from Chanel to Yeezy. The same year Hearst Communications, which owns Harper’s Bazaar, got the rights to publish the CR Fashion Books and well as host its online variant – CRFashionBook.com. This year, Carine launched her signature line of fragrances, called “7 Lovers.” The collection is inspired by the seven lovers in seven of Carine’s most beloved cities around the world: Aurélien (Paris), George (London), Kar-Wai (Hong Kong), Lawrence (Dubai), Orson (New York), Sebastian (Buenos Aires) and Vladimir (St Petersburg). For Carin’s latest adventure, she has once again teamed up with her son Vladimir to orchestrate the debut of CR Runway in Florence. It is an annual global fashion show uniting the industry’s most celebrated designers and models from around the world. It appears Carine Roitfeld’s influence in the fashion world is set to continue on an upward trajectory.
Carine Roitfeld 2019 SEPT / OCT
FROM COLLABORATORS TO DISRUPTIVE COMPETITORS Social media influencers have evolved to become ingenious brands that compete with the legacy brands they once collaborated with
he advent of social media gave birth to a new marketing phenomenon: the social media influencers. Such has been their impact on the fashion industry that some have evolved from being collaborators with the legacy brands to being brands in their own right; some eponymous, some backed by big corporates, others fiercely independent, but all are proving to be genuine disruptors. These influencers are, in effect, a hybrid of the two traditional methods of marketing - mass-communication and word-ofmouth - where an individualâ€™s words can now reach thousands, if not millions, with instant feedback. Last March, blogger Arielle Charnas, who has 1.2 million followers on Instagram, posted a link to Bandierâ€™s e-commerce site. In the following four hours, the activewear retailer grossed over $200,000 in sales. In 2017, the global spend on social media marketing, most of it on influencers, crossed the $500 million mark for the first time, and is generally expected to exceed the $5 billion mark by 2022. Influencer based marketing is now employed across every conceivable industry and products, but few have been as affected as fashion and cosmetics. The reason for influencers having such a significant impact on the fashion industry has a lot to do with the highly subjective nature of its consumption, coupled with the consumers need to be on point when it comes to latest trend each season. This is
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particularity true for female consumers of fashion as is evidenced by the dominance of women in the influencer top-of-the-charts listings. These influencers all start off as bloggers or vloggers who specialise in a particular area of interest and provide helpful and practical advice or information in a manner that makes them likeable or relatable to their followers. Thus, resulting in an emotional bond developing between the two. It is this bond that sets social media influencers apart from celebrities. They are everyday Joes and Janes, who live the lifestyle and speak the language of their followers. This makes them highly effective channels for brands looking to target a specific demographic group. As the impact of influencers has grown, so has the number of influencers. The increased competition in a hyper-flux environment like social media has pushed several of the top influencers to migrate from collaborating with established brands to launching their own brands. Chiara Ferragni, with 17 million followers on Instagram is, by a wide margin, the most influential fashion blogger. Last year, she opened her first Chiara Ferragni Collection store in Milan. Danielle Bernstein (2.1m) and Julia Engel (1.2m) both started blogging about fashion while they were in college. After working as influencers and style coaches, they now have their own line of
Chiara Ferragni, social media influencer with 17 million Instagram followers and owner of Chiara Ferragni Collection store in Milan
2019 SEPT / OCT
Danielle Bernstein, founder and face behind the fashion blog and brand WeWoreWhat
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clothing and accessories. Gabi Gregg with 710,000 followers is changing the face of plus-sized fashion. She has her own plussized swimwear collection, plus a collaboration with Premme. Arielle Charnas transformed her ‘Something Navy’ blog title into a brand, under which she collaborated on “the most successful” capsule collection with Nordstrom. The American retailer then went on to offer its biggest licensed-merchandising deal to Charnas that would present the Something Navy brand on a wide range of products. By not choosing an eponymous brand, Charnas has two high-net-worth intangible assets at her disposal. Swedish blogger Elin Kling, meanwhile, took drastic measures to distance herself from Totême, the independent clothing line she founded in 2014. After a career writing about fashion for two of Sweden’s leading publications, she launched her fashion blog in 2007; instantly topping the list. This led to her fashion vlog being hosted on Sweden’s leading TV network and becoming head stylist for Swedish Idol. In 2009, she co-founded digital media company Fashion Networks, and fashion brand Nowhere. In 2011, she became the first blogger to design a collection for H&M while also launching Styleby magazine. To ensure Totême’s long-term survival, Kling realised that its reputation had to be built on the high-quality of its products and not her name-value. So, she took a four-year hiatus from blogging before launching the brand. Chiara Ferragni, the undisputed queen of social media influencers, began her ascent to the top with The Blonde Salad blog in 2009 which is now complemented by a full-fledged magazine and e-commerce site at shop.theblondesalad. com. This is in addition to her chiaraferragnicollection.com e-commerce site. Her eponymous line of footwear, with a price tag that ranges between $200 to $550, is available in 200 stores
in 25 countries across the globe, as well as online through online stores like Farfetch, Amazon, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Her newest venture is an eight-piece capsule collection with Lancôme. Since 2013, she has been on the “Business of Fashion 500” list of the most influential fashion people. She is estimated to be worth over $10 million. After graduating from an influencer to managing designer brands, Chiara is now reversing the traditional celebrity influencer model by appearing on the proverbial silver screen. The biographical documentary “Chiara Ferragni — Unposted” is set to debut at this year’s Venice Film Festival and will feature numerous fashion personalities including Donatella Versace, Diane von Furstenberg and Maria Grazia Chiuri, as well as some of her most loyal followers. She will also appear as a judge on Amazon’s new fashion show ‘Making the Cut’ with Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn. The social media influencers have risen to prominence with the arrival of tech-savvy Millennials, followed by Generation-Z, as the dominant consumer demographic group. As a result, traditional fashion brands and brick-and-mortar retailers have struggled to deliver consistent growth; some barely surviving what was dubbed “a retail apocalypse” in 2017. Meanwhile, there has been positive performances from e-commerce retailers offering “fresh brands,” such as those mentioned above, and from retailers collaborating with savvy influencers. There is no doubt that the social media based influencers have disrupted the fashion industry, but there will be winners and losers even among them. As more and more influencers launch their own brands, some with innovative ideas or catering to niche consumers such as eco-fashion and slow-fashon, the market will squeeze not only the legacy brands, but also those founded by influencers who fail to evolve in a hyper-flux market. 2019 SEPT / OCT
CORNELIANI Fall/Winter 2019
KENZO Spring/Summer 2019 Billionaire Spring Summer 2019 collection 92 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
FALL WINTER FASHION PICKS
From turtle necks and coats in fashionable colors to the must-have accessories, the latest style trends are making their way from the ramps to the streets. Stay ahead of the curve with our Editorsâ€™ top picks for the fall-winter season
2019 SEPT / OCT
94 SEPT / OCT 2019
TOMMY HILFIGER COLLECTION Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fall/Winter 2019Spring/Summer 2019
2019 SPRING / SUMMER
DEEPFLIGHT SUPER FALCON 3S
DeepFlight, a world leader in designing and developing innovative submarines for recreation and adventure, has recently unveiled its latest model: DeepFlight Super Falcon 3S, an electric submarine designed to carry a pilot and two passengers on an underwater excursion with panoramic views; ideal for tour operators or a personal underwater adventure. The pilot and the guests sit in their own comfortable, form-fitting cockpit, with legs outstretched, enjoying a 360-degree view of the waters around them. State of the art technology, combined with lightweight, high-strength composites, and an efficient electric powertrain enables exceptional speed, range and manoeuvrability to explore the wonders of the sea. The speed can range from a slow balletic cruise to something more exhilarating. Certified by Lloyds Register, the 3S is positively buoyant, enabling the submarine to float back to the surface automatically. The cockpit is a pressure hull that has been proof-tested to keep humans safe from the external pressure of the ocean. Communication lines are always open between the sub and surface/shore, and between the pilot and passengers. The 3S is powered by a high-efficiency brushless DC drivetrain and underwater lithium-iron-phosphate battery pack. A 40V system voltage and low electric signature make the sub safe to operate around swimmers or large marine animals. As the sub is not equipped with bottom skids, it will never land on the bottom or on reefs. 96 SEPT / OCT 2019
OCULUS QUEST VR
The “All-in-one VR - no PC, no wires” is the tag line by Quest for Quest VR, its first all-in-one gaming system built for virtual reality. All that one requires is the VR headset and its controllers, whether gaming at home or away, standing or sitting. Oculus’ Insight technology translates the user’s movements into VR no matter which way the user is facing and provides room-scale tracking without external sensors. This enables the user to look around, duck for cover and turn fluidly. It has positional audio built directly into the headset, which provides the user with surround sound without the use of headphones. Its Touch controllers transport the user’s hands and gestures into the game with minimal lag and realistic precision.
T. RACING SCUDERIA FERRARI HEADSET
A gaming headset conceived by Thrustmaster, the American designer, developer and manufacturer of a wide range of innovative gaming accessories. Adjustable and detachable, the set easily adapts to all head sizes and shapes. For comfort during long gaming sessions, it has large memory foam earpad cushions along with a layer of gel. High-quality audio fidelity was a “top priority” while designing the headset according to the brand. The headset features a unidirectional microphone designed to target only the user’s voice. Its metal headband frame is designed for durability while adding to headset’s realistic look. It is compatible with PlayStation 4, Xbox One, PC, Mac, and smartphones.
MONTBLANC SUMMIT 2 SMARTWATCH
First launched in 2017 as a luxury smartwatch with a distinctively classic and vintage look, the latest edition of Montblanc’s signature smartwatch features a more compact unisex 42mm case size that delivers the feeling of a mechanical watch on its owner’s wrist while offering new innovative features. Built for work, leisure, fitness or travel, it is the first luxury smartwatch to offer the Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset by Qualcomm for enhanced performance, improved battery life and a weeklong timeonly mode. It also includes the new Timeshifter app that helps reduce jet lag. The latest Wear OS by Google powers Summit 2 and offers compatibility with iOS and Android smartphones.
LENOVO SMART TAB
A premium Android tablet for multiuse or family use, with Smart Screen and Amazon Alexa functionality. It has a 10.1” FHD (1920 x 1200) LCD IPS display with Capacitive-type multi-touch function that supports ten fingers. At its core is a Qualcomm SnapdragonTM 450 Processor managed by Android Oreo Operating System. Its Lithium-Ion Polymer battery supports 12 hours of online video playback or browsing time while standby time is around two-weeks. Dolby Atmos speakers enhance videos and music for powerful, crisp sound. It can be configured to control smart home automation devices like Ecobee, Philips Hue, WeMo and others through the touchscreen or from across the room with far-field voice pickup features. The tab comes with a detachable Smart Dock and has a Fingerprint sensor for quick access. 2019 SEPT / OCT
WHEN LUXURY MEETS THE BLUE SEAS We look into what makes the recently launched Black Pearl sailing yacht so unique
t this year’s World Superyacht Awards, the ‘Best Sailing Yacht 60m and above’ was a 106.7m, three-masted sailing yacht built by Oceanco called Black Pearl. Not only is she the largest sailing yacht in the world, but her avant-garde innovations - such as the DynaRig system, single level engine room, a hybrid propulsion installation and regeneration mode when under sail – make the Black Pearl a benchmark setter for the next generation of sailing yachts. One of the owner’s goals with Black Pearl was to try and reduce the yacht’s overall environmental impact. During sea trials, under sail power at 14 knots, the yacht regenerated enough energy to power the full house load; thus, obviating the need to run generators while under sail. Black Pearl’s hybrid propulsion system can regenerate energy while also having other onboard systems, such as the waste heat recovery system that result in further gains in overall energy efficiency. “Being an engineer, I have a natural inclination and curiosity about new systems and innovative technology. Eco consciousness is vital for the future of our planet. I wholeheartedly support research that will drive us to more sustainability, and I have ensured that green technology was very much a part of the creation of Black Pearl,” said the unidentified owner of Black Pearl in a statement. “The rig of the Black Pearl is prepared for solar sails to be fitted in the future. The development of solar sails is ongoing, but when they become available, they can be fitted on board, delivering— in addition to the driving force — a large amount of electrical power generated from solar radiation.” The Black Pearl is a realization of the owner’s vision and is the result of an elaborate and successful collaboration on the part of an international group of designers, engineers, naval architects, builders, and project managers. “The owner drove us to new heights,” says Marcel Onkenhout, CEO of Oceanco. “It was an absolute pleasure to work with an owner who was so passionate and dedicated even to the smallest details of the build.” The raison d’etre of the Black Pearl, the DynaRig, is its distinctive three 70-meter carbon masts and sailing system. Despite its size, the Dynarig can be entirely operated by just one person. The sail area is subdivided into smaller lesser-loaded sails, and all 2,900 square meters of sails can be set or furled in 6 minutes by pushing a button. It also played an essential part
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in determining, both external and internal spaces, as the rig’s structure required integrating freestanding masts. “The biggest challenges were to achieve a proper sailing balance and to figure out a system to increase the tacking performance,” says Thys Nikkels, Managing Director, Dykstra Naval Architects, the company responsible for Black Pearl’s naval architecture, DynaRig optimization, and sail plan. “We achieved this by a faster rig rotation and by designing a very responsive rudder.” Ken Freivokhwho, responsible for the design of Black Pearl, said “The challenge was to achieve volume and handsome headroom whilst still retaining a sleek and well-proportioned yacht. To this effect, we developed a high ‘waistline’, effectively bringing the apparent hull up to the upper deck for a significant part of the yacht’s length. The result is continuity of line and long sightlines.” Carlo Nuvolari of Nuvolari Lenard, who was brought in to finesse the layout and take care of the final exterior styling said, “We wanted to ensure that this very large vessel maintained her appearance as a graceful sailing yacht rather than looking like a ship, which can often happen on vessels that are so large.” Valentina Zannier of Nuvolari Lenard and French architect and designer Gerard Villate, teamed up with the owner to design the yacht’s interior, inspired by classical architecture and interspersed with contemporary elements. Luxurious materials such as crystal, mahogany, Elm burr, and ebony inlays, gilded bronze, marble, onyx, and silk were liberally used in the décor. The centrepiece of the yacht’s interior is a multi-level central atrium, including a magnificent stairwell and lift that rises alongside the central mast. This space contributes to a feeling of vertical integration between the decks. Rather than the conventional array of salons at various levels, there is a central, handsome, high ceiling saloon, with a more informal upper deck saloon. In addition, a full-beam dining room can convert to a banquet space, utilizing panoramic balconies on either side. Similarly, a large beach club can deploy landing platforms on either side for full enjoyment of the sea. Oceanco, a leading builder of large custom motor yachts since 1987, has delivered a diverse fleet of world-class yachts. With the delivery of the benchmark-setting Black Pearl, Oceanco has reinforced its position on the global stage.
The Black Pearl Yacht by Oceanco 2019 SEPT / OCT
YEREVAN THE ETERNAL CITY
Between majestic mountains and colorful landscapes, Armenia holds a vessel of history, art, and culture in a city inspired by millennia-long stories of strength and survival
rmenia’s capital of Yerevan is known for being one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities. Due to its strategic significance, Yerevan was constantly fought over and passed back and forth between the dominion of Persia, the Ottomans, and the Russian empire for centuries. Up until Armenia’s independence from the USSR in 1991, the city held an embroidery of influences; from Soviet architecture to thousandyear-old churches and neo-classical Armenian pink volcanic stone buildings.
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Today, Yerevan embodies the country’s freedom with pride, adding another layer of influence and modernity to the city. Its streets are embellished in contemporary art and music, flamboyant restaurants, bars and cafes; bringing a newfound energy to the land. Between the city’s diverse infrastructure, vivid culture, and captivating history, Yerevan has become one of the fastest growing destinations—inspiring a surge of tourists from all around the globe to come and discover the wonders of each of Yerevan’s many fascinating layers.
WHAT TO SEE
The central town square surrounded by fountains, activities, and restaurants.
Considered to be the oldest cathedral in the world.
Multi-leveled architectural stairway with a panoramic view of Yerevan.
The Armenian Genocide memorial complex and museum.
2019 SEPT / OCT
WHERE TO DINE ABOVYAN 12
From the outside, this secret spot appears to be a mere souvenir shop. Once inside, pass through pomegranate ornaments and colorful Armenian paintings to lead the way into a hidden garden restaurant. Indulge in the cozy splendor of Abovyan 12 for a quick lunch, right in the center of Yerevan, and indulge in gastronomic heaven under a canopy of vines. Plus, there’s an art gallery right above it!
Renowned for its delicious spin on traditional Armenian cuisine and iconic open kitchen concept, Sherep welcomes every diner into a world of local zest and culture. If you are yearning for culinary creativity, this spot will bring you on a journey of spices, textures, colors, and flavours—at any time of the day!
VOSTAN BY TSIRANI
Discover one of the most stunning restaurants upon entering the large wooden doors of Vostan Restaurant by Tsirani. From large windows, a great staircase decorated in exquisite mosaic tiles and a stunning backyard dotted in apricot trees, hanging lanterns, and surrounding balconies; dining here is a must, if you’re looking to feed your gastronomic needs and architectural desires.
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In Yerevan, a night out in the town takes a twist with Bellagio’s regal indoor-outdoor dining hall decorated in colossal flower arrangements hanging above the ceiling and an assortment of dishes to make your mouth water. The best part, however, is the live music to set the mood for an entertaining evening ahead.
WHERE TO STAY RAMADA BY WYNDHAM
A pleasant stay awaits at the inviting Ramada hotel in Yerevan. A short walking distance from the Republic Square, guests can explore the city’s ancient architecture, fine dine at traditional restaurants, and visit The National Gallery or History Museum of Armenia, all at a stone’s throw.
RADISSON BLU HOTEL
Discover this 5-star accommodation embedded right on the upscale Azatutyan Avenue. The hotel’s magnificent hilltop setting provides stellar views of the city center against the backdrop of Mount Ararat and delivers a resort feel with proximity to businesses and embassies.
2019 SEPT / OCT
THE ALEXANDER, LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL
An exclusive new address in the city’s developing social landscape, The Alexander is heralded as the first luxury international hotel in the historic center of Yerevan. It’s collection of elegant and refined bars and restaurants attracts Yerevan’s most discerning social scene and brings a heightened sense of lavish charm to the ancient city.
GRAND HOTEL YEREVAN
A charming blend of 1928 neoclassical infrastructure and timeless refinement to make an unforgettable experience right within Yerevan’s most iconic neighborhood. Along with its prime location, the Grand Hotel represents an embodiment of modern and ancient Armenian history and culture.
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I NVIT E S YOU TO
YEREVAN AP RIL 2 02 0
JOIN T H E C O M M U N I T Y GLOBALCITIZENFORUM.ORG 2019 SEPT / OCT
POLO IN THE PORT
The Global Citizen Forum hosts a polo tournament in one of the world’s most extraordinary sports grounds nested within the super yachts of Porto Montenegro
lobal citizens, socialites, businessmen, and poloenthusiasts from all over the globe joined under Montenegro’s August sun to indulge in a three-day polo tournament within one of the most sublime European destinations. The very first of its kind, the inaugural Polo in the Port marked the start of a series of seasonal events to take place at the Arena venue. This multi-purpose sporting and leisure space has become the latest addition to the venue repertoire in the Porto Montenegro village, located right near the Porto Montenegro waterfront. Members of the Global Citizen Forum community, along with fellow participants and guests, savored cocktails and
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canapes in the sun whilst enjoying a premiere of polo sporting entertainment, with a grand view of the Boka Bay mountains and the marina waters adorned with some of the world’s most impressive superyachts. The exquisite Porto Montenegro Yacht Club complex combines an outdoor pool terrace and restaurant, rooftop restaurant and bar, urban sandy beach and a nightclub— bridging serenity with celebration in every detail. Nestled on palm-fringed shores along the Adriatic coast, guests were accommodated at the Regent Porto Montenegro, offering the ultimate luxury retreat. As Europe’s glamorous playground for the international elite, Porto Montenegro continues to impress every visitor with its unique charm and eloquent energy.
2019 SEPT / OCT
REDEFINING FITNESS AND WELLNESS GC met with Ali El Amine, to find out more about his latest project, StudioRepublik 108 SEPT / OCT 2019
StudioRepublik Restaurant “
rom a commercial perspective, it’s never been done before. Not in the UAE or anywhere else. StudioRepublik has a massive infrastructure of 65,000 square foot spread across one-and-a-half floors. We offer close to 50-programs that are organised into three platforms,” Ali El Amine told GC. Ali is the co-founder of UAE’s own Republik brand of fitness centres. After the launch of FitRepublik in 2015, and amassing 6,500 active members, they now have StudioRepublik on Sheikh Zayed Road. Ali goes to great pains to clarify that StudioRepublik is not just a gym or even a fitness centre in the traditional sense because it would be misleading, and instead, he insists that it is an entirely new concept that combines fitness and wellbeing with the latest advancements in sports medicine and performance measuring techniques. Ali was kind enough to sit-down with GC to elaborate on what makes StudioRepublik different.
What are the programs offered by StudioRepublik and how are they organised? The nearly 50 programs we offer have been organised into four platforms across FitRepublik and StudioRepublik. The first platform is the Podium offered at FitRepublik, where we educate the people in four types of Olympic sports. The first type is martial arts such as Karate, Brazilian Jujitsu, Boxing, Kickboxing, Mixed martial arts, and so on. Second is Gymnastics, which covers everything from beginner to elite. The third is Aquatics, and fourth is barbell such as Olympic lifting, powerlifting and cross fitness. Subscribers of these four units go through a program similar to an education system with assessment and report cards. There are three terms within a year, each with a duration of twelve weeks. You can only join at the beginning of the term, and you will be following a pre-planned program. Each program offers a specific service and has a particular instructor, location, and weekly-frequency. 2019 SEPT / OCT
StudioRepublik Drama The other three platforms â€“ the Arena, the Stage and the Lab are offered at StudioRepublik. The Arena is similar to what you know as commercial services within the gym space. We offer boot-camp, pilates, yoga, group exercises, gym, aerial anything from pole dancing, silk ropes, that kind of stuff - and cycling. No one else offers so many diverse disciplines in one location. We have also taken acoustics to a new level with live deejays and musicians. We have lighting installations that are on par with nightclubs using very high-end equipment. The program managers that operate this environment are the very best it in their fields. The Stage is for performing arts such as drama, dance and music. It operates under the same term business model as the Podium with its own assessment, progress tracking and evaluation program. Some of them are on a one-on-one basis, while others are group learning. The Stage will offer Dubaiâ€™s first community recording studio that offers a space to grow the talent of tomorrow, as well as re-light the passion of the laterin-life musicians who have had work and life come between their love of music. The Dance studio will offer high-calibre dance instruction 110 SEPT / OCT 2019
to tots, juniors, teens and adults of all levels, from absolute beginner to advanced in all major dance disciplines, led by acclaimed Performing Arts Professionals for recreational or accelerated training. The Lab represents how we wish to expand on the idea of the gym. It is a combination of a high-performance fitness centre and a wellness retreat but is offered in an urban environment and is available for the average person. At the Lab, we can do any kind of testing, such as blood, urine, etc. We also have a dietician, movement specialist, physiotherapist, sports massage as well as strength and conditioning. We start by assessing your power, endurance, blood, functional movements, and your eating habits. Then we ask you where you wish to go. Based on that, we design a program for you that will take you to that objective. W hat i s the d i ff erence betw een Fi tR ep ub l i k a n d StudioRepublik? At FitRepublik, the programs are modular so that you can pick and choose your program, your family [group], the duration and you can choose the intensity. At StudioRepublik, the programs
StudioRepublik PT Gym are like a curriculum, so it is pre-scheduled, you have to join at the beginning, and you have to follow it. How has your experience at FitRepublik contributed to StudioRepublik? StudioRepublik is a side effect of the real work that happens behind the scenes at FitRepublik. Today, both Republiks operate under a CRM called Quality Performer or QP. This software was developed in-house, and it allows us to be different from everyone else. All customers access an environment we call PETA, which stands for People, Equipment, Time and Area. I t a l l o w s u s t o t a k e m e t r i c s o f capacity, retention, customer satisfaction and all sorts of other metrics on productivity. Even more essential for us is the gridding of services through a technology called K8, an interactive tool designed by the experts at FitRepublik, to help members understand and manage their bodies better than ever which unifies all of our diverse crafts under one technical language. It operates on the premise of Assessment, Program,
Progress Tracking and Evaluation. So, no matter what you do, we have a uniform measurement of your activity even though the units o f m e a s u r e m e n t m a y c h a n g e r el ati v e to th e as s es s m en t criteria. So, we have one language speaking to a musician, physiotherapist, dancer or a swimming instructor. Do your customers have access to this information? We have an app for our community members, which has a personal profile along with K8. It can also be used to give feedback, to inquire, book a classroom, view schedules with a calendar, make payments and many other tasks. What is the level of expertise employed at StudioRepublik? The level of expertise we have is definitely one of the highest in this industry at the commercial level. We have Olympians when it comes to Olympic sports, for example, and a similar standard when it comes to musicians, dancers, actors and at every level of our organization. Know more about StudioRepublik at http://studio-republik.com 2019 SEPT / OCT
The Taj Cape Town 112 SEPT / OCT 2019
EMBODYING A TOWN’S HERITAGE
The Taj Cape Town offers much more than what one would expect from a luxury hotel in one of the world’s most fabulous destinations
aj Cape Town is one of those rare hotels that combines luxury, location and heritage in one of the most sought-after world destinations. The hotel boasts a strong sense of place, as it combines two adjacent heritage buildings that have retained their original facade while being discreetly linked. One was the original home to the South African Reserve Bank, while the other was the Temple Chambers which later housed the Board of Executors. Located in the heart of the old city while being only a twenty-minute drive from the airport, the hotel is within walking distance to some of the city’s foremost landmarks and attractions. Taj Cape Town, therefore, is an ideal base to explore a city that boasts large-scale museums such as Zeitz Mocca, or smaller galleries such as Southern Guild, Everard Read and Smith Studio. Beyond the art, the city boasts several historical and cultural museums such as Nelson Mandela’s former cell, the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden, Iziko South African Museum, Stevenson Gallery and many more. One may choose to wander through the heritage-rich cobblestone streets of the old city. Beyond the town, there is a seemingly endless list of experiences to discover, from taking in the views from the top of Table Top Mountain to swimming with penguins and wine tasting. Overlooking Table Mountain, all of the hotel’s 176 rooms offer views of the iconic mountain or views of the historic old city of Cape. The rooms are individually decorated and offer a variety of accommodation options suited for leisure and business travellers. The Presidential Suite is the premier accommodation spanning 200 square metres across the 16th and 17th floors
of the hotel. Light-filled and marble-floored, the suite has two bedrooms with separate entrances, along with a generous lounge, a formal dining room, a study and a private exercise room. The master bedroom boasts luxurious linens and silks, large mirrors and chandeliers. A large bathroom offers a walk-in shower, long bath, hammam steam and floor-toceiling windows. For a family of four, the hotel offers the Family TwoBedroom Suite with city view. The family suites have separate spacious living rooms, separate work areas, and a private walk-out balcony. In the main bedroom, there’s an extralength king bed and twin beds in the second bedroom. The expansive bathroom has a walk-in marble shower, oversized bathtub and Molton Brown amenities. Guests of the suites have access to a 24-hour butler service; t h e e x c l u s i v e C l u b L o u n g e , w h e r e a complimentary daily breakfast and evening cocktail and canapé selection is served; complimentary WiFi; a private luxury transfer service to and from the airport; evening canapés and private breakfast; in-house spa treatment and many others. Taj Cape Town’s signature dining venue, Mint Restaurant & Terrace, spills out into St George’s Mall, an upmarket pedestrian-only area bustling with live entertainment, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and numerous jewellers. The Multi-Cuisine restaurant offers a host of allday dining options with a modern bistro-inspired feel. The unpretentious dining room extends onto the Mall with a new terrace, offering comfortable couch seating and suspended umbrellas; making it perfect for breakfast, lunch, dinner or summer cocktails. The internationally inspired menu, created 2019 SEPT / OCT
Jiva Spa at Taj Cape Town 114 SEPT / OCT 2019
Luxury Tower Room With Table Mountain View by Executive Chef David Tilly and his team, offers a “comfort food-driven” menu that reflects the cosmopolitan nature of Cape Town. B o m b a y B r a s s e r i e , o n e o f T a j g r o u p ’s s i g n a t u r e dining experiences, offers exceptional and authentic Indian cuisine. In Cape Town, it has undergone an expansion and refurbishment this year. The two signature venues of the hotel are complemented by The Lobby Lounge serving afternoon t e a a n d T h e T w a n k e y B a r , s p e c i a l i s i n g i n handcrafted prohibition-era cocktails and tapas-style dishes. Amenities include a 15-metre, heated indoor lap pool; a fully equipped Techno-gym with an iPod docking station, personal TV screen and various training programmes; two saunas with separate male and female changing areas. The Taj Group’s Jiva Grande Spa combines modern ‘science of longevity’ with 6,000-year-old Eastern wellness philosophies devised “to align the body, soul and mind.”
The holistic treatments are enlivened with ceremonies and rituals that encourage total relaxation. Taj Cape Town boasts the only Jiva Spa in Africa. The spa’s global principles of “everything that touches the body is completely natural,” dictates that materials like organic cotton, sun-bleached fabric, oven-baked pottery and soy cotton are used. Signature Experiences at Taj Cape Town include Cape Fynbos, a special treatment created from the botanical treasures of South Africa; Trupti, a head to toe treatment which consists of a traditional Indian head massage followed by a gentle back and foot massage; Vishrama combines gentle strokes, steaming poultice and a mixture of Indian herbs and oils to revitalise the body. The Taj Cape Town is an ideal luxury hotel for those who love heritage and a sense of place. The hotel not only embodies Cape Town’s heritage - given the legacy of the two buildings that house it - the hotel is also situated right at the heart of what makes Cape Town a unique experience.
Mint Restaurant & Terrace 2019 SEPT / OCT
CARVING A PATH OF HER OWN
Garima Arora, the executive-chef of Bangkokâ€™s Gaa restaurant, and the first Indian woman recipient of the Michelin star 116 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
Restaurant Gaa in Bangkok
hat ignites my passion as a chef is eating something new for the very first time. The joy one feels when they take a spoonful of something they have never tasted before. That’s the feeling I like to have, and that’s the feeling I like my guests to have as well,” says chef Garima Arora on being named Asia’s Best Female Chef of 2019 by ‘The World’s 50 Best.’ Gaa, the restaurant where she is the executive chef was awarded a Michelin star last year, thus making the 32-year-old the first ever Indian woman to receive a Michelin star. Quite an impressive achievement for someone who did not start her professional career as a chef. In fact, she graduated with a degree in Mass Media from Jai Hind College of Mumbai, the city where she was born and raised. Garima worked as a journalist for a brief period before quitting the profession altogether, packing her bags and heading off to Paris where she enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in 2010. Cooking was her greatest passion since childhood, when she had dreams of one day owning a restaurant, and she was determined to realise it. She credits two aspects of her life as the source of her passion for cooking — the traditional Indian kitchen of her mother and grandmother, and the culinary adventures of her father. When Garima was young, she would observe her mother and grandmother in the kitchen, learning traditional recipes and techniques. “I remember in my mother’s kitchen we had ten different kinds of oils to start cooking with — Peanut, coconut, sesame. We use the same idea here [at Gaa] to use fat to draw flavours from different herbs or vegetables. The flavour of the fat you start out with completely changes your end product. And of course, cooking on fire. That I think is a cheat code, anything you cook on fire will always taste good,” says Garima. Her parents often travelled abroad, and when they returned, they would try to recreate some of the recipes they had eaten but using local ingredients. This, the young Garima found fascinating: “Growing up it was my dad who had a very profound effect on the way we used to eat. He would make it look like it was magic. I looked at cooking as always something that is fun and enjoyable.” After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu in 2010, she began her culinary career with Le Quartier du Pain in Paris, followed by Verre by Gordon Ramsay in Dubai between 2011 and 2014. Then she “
joined chef René Redzepi at his Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, which was judged ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ four times between 2010 and 2014. Garima’s three-year stint at Noma was, according to her, the most influential period of her professional career. She learnt not just new techniques but also to think in a completely new way about her approach to cooking. In the fall of 2015, Garima once again packed her bags and headed to Bangkok. She had been appointed sous chef at Gaggan, judged Asia’s Best Restaurant for four consecutive years by ‘Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.’ Garima’s stay in Bangkok was supposed to be temporary. She had been handpicked by chef Gaggan Anand to head a new branch of his restaurant in India. The few intervening months that Garima had spent in Thailand, she had been seduced by its wealth of flavours and by its people. When the planned restaurant project in India did not materialise, the same investors offered Garima the opportunity to open her own in Bangkok. They settled on a three-story space across the street from Gaggan. Thus, began the tale of Gaa, a restaurant whose chef is from Mumbai, it’s location is in Bangkok and its ingredients are local. Garima, therefore, rightly defines her restaurant as neither Thai nor Indian; “We’re not an Indian restaurant, or not in the traditional sense of the term anyway. But we do rely heavily on Indian techniques to create a palette which is completely modern, a tasting menu which is completely modern.” The result: words such as innovative, modern, playful and unpredictable have been used to describe the dining experience at Gaa. Garima has prepared a 10-course and a 14-course menu for diners. Among the standout signatures is the grilled unripe jackfruit served with caramelised onions and an assortment of pickles, and is meant to be eaten taco-style with roti. Another is the Strawberries and Royal Project Sturgeon Caviar served with Hor Wor Oil and wild herbs from the forests of Chiang Rai. The dishes are complemented by fresh-fruit juices, kombucha and signature cocktails made with ingredients that are fermented in-house. Not one to rest on her laurels, Garima has not stopped thinking big; she says: “As far as Indian cooking is concerned, Indian techniques are concerned, we do have a lot to offer the world and I think Indian food can be the future of modern cuisine, if you will. But then again, it is up to us as Indian cooks to do justice to that.” 2019 SEPT / OCT 117
118 SEPT / OCT 2019
TIMELESS GROOMING CUSTOMS The Art of Shaving shares with us some essential self-grooming techniques that have made the brand a world leader
n 1996, The Art of Shaving, then a single male grooming outlet in New York, elevated the male grooming experience by introducing high-quality grooming products rich in essential oils and botanical ingredients that were sourced from around the world. Today, with stores located around the globe, The Art of Shaving is considered one of the world’s leading premium grooming brands thanks to its trademarked “The 4 Elements of the Perfect Shave” – Prepare, Lather Up!, Shave, and Moisturise. The Art of Shaving stores and Barber Spa offers guests an experience of the brand’s diverse variety of products for head to toe grooming. The shaving consultants at the store help clients navigate through the signature “4 Elements” collections as well as facial care, skincare, body care, fragrances, and the newly introduced hair styling products. Additionally, the store boasts an array of finely crafted grooming instruments and accessories such as soft-hair shaving brushes, different types of razors – straight, safety, five-blade and three-blade - manual shavers and beautiful stands made with luxury materials such as rose gold and anodised aluminium. The Barber Spa, located within every retail outlet, offers men an indulgent grooming experience in a luxurious and masculine
environment. Master Barbers are expertly trained to provide a range of services using the brand’s curated products and essential oils to leave clients well-groomed and refreshed. At the spa, guests can treat themselves to the brand’s signature Royal Shave or traditional barber services such as a shave, haircut, head shave, or facial hair shaping and styling. The Art of Shaving’s range of premium grooming products and the premium barber experience at the spa are both curated around its “4 elements” concept. The first of which is the Pre-Shave Oils that help improve razor glide and prevents the shaver from applying too much pressure when shaving. The increased razor glide provides more control to ‘arch’ the desired shape of the beard without compromising on the results. In terms of how much to use, a little goes a long way. A dime-sized amount is usually enough. For dry skin or a very thick beard, a bit more can be used. Then comes the lathering using a badger brush. One must wet the brush with warm water, put a dime-sized amount of shaving cream on the brush and use a circular motion to apply an even coat before lathering up. If the cream is found to be too thick and not lathering easily, simply use more warm water in the brush. 2019 SEPT / OCT
The Art of Shaving Store at The Dubai Mall 120 SPRING / SUMMER 2019
There should be enough shaving cream left on the brush for a second pass of the razor. The third element is the actual shaving. Short, light strokes with a razor are always the recommendation. This is called a â€˜chisellingâ€™ or shaping method and is especially suitable for grooming the beard because it allows one to shave without going too deep into the beard line and ruining the shape. To prevent irritation, follow the grain for the first pass, then shave against or across the grain after lathering up for a second pass. The fourth, and often overlooked step, is to protect the skin post-shaving. One must apply a quality after-shave to help return moisture and soothe the skin. Not using an after-shave balm
may leave the face feeling dry and itchy, and one is more likely to scratch and bring bacteria to the skin from the fingernails. This can lead to irritation and redness, and is especially true in the colder months when the skin can easily over-dry. Using a little bit more balm during the winter months can prevent itchy, dry, or flaking skin. The Art of Shaving range of products are available online at www.theartofshaving.ae. However, for those who prefer a personalised concierge service or want the Barber Spa experience, the brand has stores in The Dubai Mall, City Walk and Festival City Mall, and another is slated to open in The Dubai Mall Level Shoes this year. 2019 SEPT / OCT
TAG Heuer Monaco 1990s Limited Edition (L) & the original TAG Heuer Monaco 1969 (R)
COMMEMORATING AN ICON TAG Heuer dedicates its latest edition from the celebratory Monaco collection to the 1990s
arious versions of TAG Heuer’s Monaco line of watches have appeared since its first introduction in the year 1969; each time featuring new complications, designs and materials. To mark the 50th anniversary of TAG Heuer’s Monaco, the brand is launching five new Monaco watches throughout the year that are inspired by the different decades between 1969 to 2019. The latest which is the third edition of TAG Heuer’s Monaco watch is inspired by the 1990s. It made its grand debut in New York, the day after the city hosted Race 12 of this year’s Formula E Championship on July 13. The exclusive event was attended by brand ambassadors race car driver and 2017/2018 Formula E Champion Jean-Éric Vergne, Hollywood actor and race car driver Patrick Dempsey, and former Miss Universe Paulina Vega, to name a few. The first 2 editions inspired by the 70s and the 80s were unveiled at this year’s Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix in May and in June in Le Mans, France, respectively. The 1990s Monaco takes its inspiration from the straightforward street-style characteristic of the decade with an industrial appearance. The stainless-steel square case of the 122 SEPT / OCT 2019
chronograph has a grained rhodium-plated dial in silvery-grey. The flange and Heuer logo are in blue, and the indexes and central seconds hand are red. The blue of the Heuer logo and minute and second scales counters provide a bold contrast to the red touches on the hands and indexes and the red motif featured on the dial. The sandblasted subdials also feature blue counters. This colour scheme continues with the blue perforated calfskin strap with red stitching. The hour and minute hands and indexes are luminescent. The stainless-steel caseback is engraved with the “Monaco Heuer” logo as well as “1989-1999 Special Edition” and “One of 169,” as production is limited to 169 pieces. It also features patterns with brushed finishing inspired by the original model. Inside is a modern version of the renowned Calibre 11, the automatic-winding chronograph movement that made its debut inside the original Monaco of 1969. Like the watch, the watch box is also inspired by the original. The 1990s model is packaged in a dark blue box decorated with the Heuer logo and a horizontal check-pattern stripe. The watch is placed on a red cushion and surrounded by a grey interior – the same colours found on the dial.
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124 MAR / APR 2019