Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - February 2019

Page 31

AMPHORAE, JUGS AND OTHER ANCESTRAL CONTAINERS

LOVE THAT ARE MADE IN AMPHORAE by Lorenzo Ruggeri

long macerations. Aromas of chamomile and resin anticipate a graceful and incisive palate in development, with a still tonic finish.

Migiu 2016 Olianas Gergei (CA) – olianas.it A real treat, from semi-wild grapes grown on sandy-franc soils of marine origin. The wine ferments and ages in 800-liter terracotta amphorae with red maceration for almost 90 days. The result? Deep yellow color, aromas of peach and apricot, creamy palate, savory and fresh. What a drink!

Ribolla Gialla 2008 Gravner Gorizia – gravner.it The amphora is the result of a long journey for Josko. It took eight years to obtain this fermented wonder with long maceration in underground Georgian amphorae, with indigenous yeasts and without temperature control, which rests for 6 years in large oak barrels. The wine? Epic. Details and pure energy.

Fricandò 2015

Al di Là del Fiume Marzabotto (BO) cantina.aldiladelfiume.it Three hectares of biodynamic vineyards in the historical Regional Park of Monte Sole for Danila Mongardi and Gabriele Monti’s winery, which also offers farm holidays and a cultural association. Albana in purity, Fricandò is the fruit of grapes fermented on the skins for a few months in Impruneta terracotta amphorae. Sapid and pleasant, with beautiful notes of autumn fruit and elegant authenticity.

Grignolino d’Asti Anfora Margherita Barbero 2017 Luigi Spertino Mombercelli (AT) Also in this case the aging in amphorae accentuates the qualities of fragrance and integrity of the fruit. Margherita Barbero Grignolino is a delicious instant wine: straightforward and immediate in its tones of small red fruits, flowers and black pepper. The mouth is vital, perky and tasty, austere but characterised by freshness and well structured tannins.

Qvevri Rosso 2015 Vino di Anna Solicchiata (CT) vinodianna.com From Alelaide to Solicchiata. Anna Martens’ journey, undoubtedly among the most impressive wineries of the highest volcano in Europe. From very old vines planted in “alberello” on the north flank, the wine ferments and refines in underground amphorae of different sizes. Sensations are delicately smokey, of roots, for a mature and graceful profile.

Petruna Anfora 2016 Il Borro Loro Ciuffenna (AR) ilborro.it The Ferragamo winery is experiencing a noticeable change in style. Proof of this is the Petruna ‘15, organic sangiovese. Matured 12 months in amphorae, it has a bright colour and a fine and delicate aromatic bouquet. Elegant entry in the mouth, with lively and incisive tannins, fresh acidity and fragrance of biting black fruit.

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FEBRUARY 2019

Pithos Rosso Anfora 2016 Cos Vittoria (RG) cosvittoria.it Its delightful profile is characterized by black mulberries, almond, black olives. It has an important sapid verve and a continuous, dry and lashing development. It goes very well with an elaborate, spicy fish soup laced with good tomatoes.

Barbera del Monferrato Rataraura 2015 Rocco di Carpeneto Carpeneto (AL) roccodicarpeneto.it Il Rocco di Carpeneto has its headquarters and vineyards in one of the most suitable areas of the Dolcetto di Ovada. But it is the Barbera, refined for 6 months in amphorae, that most amazes us again. Dark colour with an intense and captivating fruity profile: pepper, ripe blackberry, orange peel. Rich and very dynamic mouth thanks to a sapid and acidic quota that gives whim and rhythm to a joyful wine that reactivates the palate.

Teroldego Sgarzon 2016 Foradori Mezzolombardo (TN) elisabettaforadori.com Elisabetta Foradori and her children continue to lead with regard to biodynamic viticulture and sensitivity in handling the amphorae in fermentation as they are being refined, in this case tinajas of Villarrobledo, Spain. The Sgarzon benefits from the cooler climate of the Campo Rotaliano: it offers sensations of rose, pepper, and crisp fruit for a tasty sip rich in sapid and smoky counterpoints. Refined.


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