Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - December 2019

Page 26

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN RUSSIA

QUADRUM

PINZERIA BY BONTEMPI

Novinskiy Blbd., 8/2

Ulitsa Okhotnyy Ryad, 2

Bolshoy Znamenskiy

MOSCOW +7 4952870515

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

www.lottehotel.com

+7 4992777100

Average Price: ₽ 7000.0

Average Price: ₽ 700.0

www.fourseasons.com

Valentino

Bontempi,

chef

Emanuele Pollini is our Chef of the

A refined Italian experience inside the

from Brescia, never stops. In

Year. We were literally bewitched

Four Seasons Hotel, with beautiful

Moscow for the past 15 years,

by his cuisine: creative, risky, in-

views out on the Red Square. We are

before launching forcefully into the pinsa

stinctive, authorial. The restaurant

in the realm of chef Christian de Na-

project, he wrote several cookbooks and

is housed within the Lotte Hotel in Mos-

dai, of Treviso origin, who has dedicated

today manages five restaurants. He suc-

cow. Appetizers start with fried nettles

perseverance and quality to his work here

ceeded in standardizing and re-propos-

and pork cracklings, then comes a warm

since 2015. Good opening appetizer, both

ing his format with great success, which

vegetable extract to open up digestion

the focaccia and the intensity of extra vir-

revolves around a long-leavened pinsa,

and spike appetites. This dish made us

gin olive oil, juicy olives and oil preserved

the result of deep research on flour, and

prick up our ears: seared squid, lime, pak

artichokes. We enjoyed the ricotta ravi-

sold at very affordable prices. To be on

choi. Depth of flavours, complexity, the fin-

oli on a Parmigiano mousse, the delicate

the safe and quality side, choose a Mar-

ish is very long, including a reduction of

branzino with pak choi, olives and black

gherita or the tuna version. The wine list

aromatic herbs. Never leave without the

truffle. Christian has an excellent hand on

is more than valid. Open a good bottle

mind-blowing lasagna-filled tortelli, what

risotto and could not be otherwise given

and enjoy.

a simple and magnificent dish. We warmly

his DNA, so be sure to order some. Wine

recommend the lamb chops, served in a

list with classic labels, well structured and

saucepan together with tomato, capers

graphically supported. The service is in

and their congealed fat: sopping up sauce

tune with the offer.

with bread is a must. Leave room for desserts, the chef’s penchant, to say the least, is his imaginative interpretation of tiramisu. Professional service and a wine list divided between Italy and France that could need a little update. This is an amazing experience.

MOSCOW

GAMBERO ROSSO

26

DECEMBER 2019

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

OVO BY CARLO CRACCO


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