ModaVIE 2015

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Princess Ameera Al-Taweel Al-Otaibi Saudi Arabia

Livia Firth Founder Green Carpet Challenge

Gery Keszler, Founder AIDS LIFE and Life Ball , and BILL CLINTON Former president of the united states

This is F4D Real Time Leading the way of new innovations is at the core of Fashion 4 Development. F4D TV and Media Group is the digital platform launched to profile the efforts of F4D and those engaged in strategic solutions for global social change across all sectors. Showcasing examples of groundbreaking work, our coverage targets an international audience with a mission to inspire action.

Visit F4Dtv.com to view recent coverage and submit videos for consideration.

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the luncheon

Fashion 4 Development’s 5th Annual Official

First Ladies Luncheon In the presence of Heads of State, Heads of Government and First Ladies during the 70th Session of the United Nations General Assembly

MONday, September 28th, 2015

The Pierre Hotel Fifth Avenue & 61ST Street NEW YORK CITY 11:30AM – 2:30PM

HONOREd GUEST

MADAM BAN SOON-TAEK First Lady of the United Nations

Hosted by

EVIE EVANGELOU President and Founder, Fashion 4 Development

FRANCA SOZZANI Goodwill Ambassador, Fashion 4 Development Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Italia

COUMBA TOURE President, Advanced Development for Africa

OAFLA Organization of African First Ladies against HIV/AIDS, 44 Nations

Honorees medal of honor

Shri Mata (Amma) Amritanandamayi Spiritual Leader, Humanitarian, and Visionary

league of gentlemen award

Mark Dybul Executive Director, The Global Fund

eco award

Josie Maran Founder and CEO of Josie Maran Cosmetics

Fashion 4 development award

VICTORIA BECKHAM Goodwill Ambassador UNAIDS, Fashion Designer and Founder, Victoria Beckham Brand

women’s champion award

Yue-Sai Kan Emmy-winning television producer, Founder of Yue-Sai Cosmetics

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evie evangelou President & Founder, Fashion 4 Development 4

vision

vision If one embarked on a study of numerology, they might discover that the number 5 is the most dynamic and energetic of all the single-digit numbers. It is said to have characteristics of unpredictability, always in motion and constantly in need of change; in Chinese culture, it is connected to the pursuit of freedom; in biblical terms, it symbolizes God’s grace, goodness and favor toward humans. While virtuous in any forms noted, for me it also represents a distinct beauty in its coming of age, which is how F4D’s First Ladies Luncheon enters this season – a celebration of our 5th anniversary, with our tagline “Giving Back is the New Luxury” steadfastly illuminating our path.

But this is not my celebration alone. This milestone could not have been achieved without the benevolence of the many partners that have stood with us throughout, or boarded the ‘train’ along the way to stand unified in the advancement of a better, more empowered world.

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G iv ing back is t h e n ew l u x u ry

Photography by Fadil Berisha; Suit: Angelo GalassO; Hair: VALENTINO LONGO 2

vision

As an activist and awareness organization, it is incumbent on us to continue engaging individuals – and communities – on the critical need for global action and each year, our activist community and footprint broadens. With F4D’s founding principles (the 4 E’s) – educate, empower, enhance and enrich – as the fundamental values at the core of all actions, it was another triumphant year of experiences and burgeoning partnerships, ushered in jointly with Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief and F4D Goodwill Ambassador, Franca Sozzani.

Among the many highlights of ongoing collaborations, were our 2nd Annual First Ladies Luncheon at Belvedere Castle in Vienna, where over 200 generous women gathered in support of working toward a solution for the eradication of AIDS and HIV; our union with the Environmental Media Association and Debbie Levin, to increase awareness on the essential need to expand greening initiatives; our longstanding partnership with Advanced Development for Africa, Zero Mothers Die and together, our new alliance with The Peoples’ Vision to make available the first of its kind maternal health mobile Internet solution comprising the Mum’s Maternal Network and Mum’s one dollar Smartphone for expectant mothers; our flourishing partnership with the China Beauty Charity Fund and renowned haute couture designer Guo Pei, to initiate efforts that address the importance of the preservation of cultures, and the essential function that the varied and indispensable facets of art and fashion factor into contributing to that end; League of Gentlemen’s Rony Meisler of Brazilian apparel line Reserva, who has created a consumer campaign meal program that ensures 5 meals for every item sold, to underserved individuals in underdeveloped favelas of Brazil; and with F4D Goodwill Ambassador Franca Sozzani, we have initiated a new effort in Ethiopia with “Made in Africa” which boasts e-Commerce solutions for products from that region, and exposure opportunities to underprivileged yet talented, emerging designers who will compete for a chance to present on the elite runways of Milan and New York.

And on the advent of this anniversary year, our expansion efforts and reach continue with the announcement of robust partnerships. Among them, we were exceptionally proud to support True Cost, the powerful documentary Executive produced by treasured friend and past premiere F4D Award recipient Livia Firth, which offers an in-depth view of working conditions in the garment trade, its impact on the environment and the many at-risk workers exposed to inequitable wages and trade; an alliance with OAFLA, the Organization of African First Ladies of 44 nations; and our launch of F4D Solutions and Sourcing, championed by sourcing expert Jeanine Ballone, to aid designers in the exploration of sustainable solutions for ethical sourcing in the product supply chain, which supports Fair Trade standards among at-risk workers sustaining the garment trade.

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vi s i o n

Throughout the coming year, we are also delighted to engage other significant individuals and organizations in the ongoing development of our events base. On the heels of last year’s Sustainia Fashion 100 Launch at MAGIC in Las Vegas, which works to seek out solutions for sustainability within the fashion industry, this year’s event takes us to what is said will be a historical World Climate Summit in Paris in December, attended by world leaders. F4D will contribute a fashion focused presentation during Sustainia’s conference.

As noteworthy, I’m thrilled to join treasured New York luminary and entrepreneur Sam Munshani (affectionately known as the Mayor of Madison) as the Mayoress of Madison this holiday season, in the creation of a campaign to benefit local children’s charities, with luxury lifestyle partners on Madison Avenue. Finally, in partnership with the Global Fund, an organization designed to accelerate the end of AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria as epidemics, we will launch our Leading Ladies Luncheon in November with newly appointed Special Envoy of F4D and human rights activist, Beatrice Borromeo, spouse of Pierre Casiraghi, son of Princess Caroline of Monaco. The Luncheon will unite 3040 leading ladies of industry, entertainment and philanthropy, who are willing to use their resources and celebrity, to initiate media awareness campaigns for mounting critical issues demanding our attention.

There is so much more for which to account – it’s all significant; every financial contribution, every person, every advance, and my gratitude is simply immeasurable. Each and every act is worthy of acknowledgement and not one is lost on me. Yet, while we have traveled so far, the voyage has just begun. I’s time for vigilance, commitment and change, more so now than in any other time in our lives. Five years later, my dedication, passion and desire for a more revitalized and hopeful world has only increased. I’m proud to stand united with you all today, and in the many days ahead, to fulfill what it is we set out to do – see that dream come to fruition.

I again extend my humble thanks for your generous and continued support and for making this an unforgettable journey.

And raise a glass to what’s ahead in the next 5!

Warmest wishes,

President and Founder, F4D

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vision

F4 D glob al i ni ti ati ves afghanistan

india

austria

indonesia

bangladesh

kenya

botswana

nigeria

brazil

philippines

burkina faso

saudi arabia

china

senegal

egypt

south korea

ethiopia

tunisia

ghana

uganda

guatemala

USA

hong kong

vietnam

key production, trade

promotion

health

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skills training

education

CREDITS

PUBLISHER

F4D MEDIA GROUP

editor-in-chief

EVIE EVANGELOU

producer & senior advisor, special projects CREATIVE DIRECTOR & BRAND STRATEGIST

KELLY DARR

KATHY RUIZ

CONTRIBUTORS

ALICE BRACCINI, Julia Chance, Corynne Corbett, Kelly Darr, Lucie Herring, Sam Munshani, Bryan Oknyansky, Sharon Pendana, Lucy Siegle, Ruth Sutcliffe, Coumba Toure, Robb Young, nanci ross-weaver

ADVERSTISING SALES AND ALL OTHER INQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT:

MERCEDES ALAGNA INFO@FASHION-4-DEVELOPMENT.COM 212 327 3338

on COVER Design by Guo Pei Cover and Back Photography Fadil Berisha

COPYRIGHT MODAVIE 2015 Printing by Bob Maul, Front and Graphics. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

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ALL FOR ONE Th e s e c o n d annual

first ladies luncheon in vienna AND

LIFE BALL b y k e lly da r r

Charlize Theron and Mark Dybul , Executive Director of the Global Fund

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Evie Evangelou welcomes guests to F4D’s First Ladies Luncheon 2015 in Vienna, Austria

I a lway s e n v i s i o n e d a w o r l d o f l i m i t l e s s p o s s i b i l i t i e s Theron and fashion provocateur Jean Paul Gaultier were chief among those to host the event with “GOLD – VER SACRUM | SANTA PRIMAVERA | SACRE DU PRINTEMPS” as the prevailing motto. “Ver Sacrum”, the ancient Roman spring festival, has served as an inspiration for creative people of all genres and is expressed in equal measure both in Gustav Klimt’s golden paintings and in Igor Stravinsky’s “Sacre du Printemps.” Protagonists and figures like those that were painted and embodied by the Vienna Secessionists were once again encountered at this year’s Ball. They all shared an aspiration for change, renewal and improvement as they dove into a rousing festival that celebrated life.

yet never imagined my travels would lead me to the people and places I’ve encountered since my journey with F4D began. And in May of this year, there was a distinct poignancy to boarding a plane back to the enchanting city of Vienna, Austria, where I was off to commemorate our second annual First Ladies Luncheon of Vienna on May 16th, and Life Ball, where these two realms of humanitarianism and dreams of a better world would once again unite in indescribable splendor.

Set amidst the opulence of Vienna’s historical Belvedere Palace, was our agenda to underscore F4D’s commitment – and responsibility – to engage in conversations and actions that impact global change. With the UN Millenium Development Goals as a driving force for our efforts and Founder Gery Keszler of AIDS LIFE and Life Ball as our newfound and celebrated partner, the Luncheon, established to focus on the impact of AIDS/HIV among women and girls worldwide, and to unify efforts for a better, healthier future, boasted a solid showing of over 200 influential and benevolent women with change on their hearts and minds. Under the patronage of the First Lady of the federal republic of Austria, with a keynote speech by Oscar winning actress Charlize Theron, also Founder of the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project (CTAOP) and United Nations HIV/AIDS Advocate, the event highlighted gender inequalities as a major driver of the HIV epidemic – the leading cause of death and disease among women of reproductive age, worldwide.

Its opening show on Vienna City Hall Square and the festivities inside the City Hall were dramatically staged to draw attention to the medical and social consequences of HIV/AIDS in order to raise vital funds for the projects supported by AIDS LIFE. “Young people need safe environments where they can discuss HIV and AIDS, the consequences and the prevention, and also talk about what is happening to them in their communities. I believe, if given the right tools and support, this generation can be the key to changing the course of this devastating epidemic. The reality of stopping AIDS is around the corner-that´s what drives me; that’s the message I want to share: WE CAN STOP AIDS, but we need to keep pushing,” Theron shared when describing her work with CTAOP, which supports local organizations financially and also helps them with networking and public relations.

Following the Luncheon, festivities continued at the 23rd Annual Life Ball, the city’s extravaganza celebration of music, culture, the arts and theater with luminaries, spanning the globe, in attendance.

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the luncheon

MARK DYBUL and Gery Keszler

CHARLIZE THERON

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F4D’s First Ladies Luncheon 2015 in Vienna Photography by KATHY RUIZ

Traditionally, the Fashion Show is the grand finale of the Life Ball opening. This year, French design icon Jean Paul Gaultier presented select items from his haute couture collections as well as outfits inspired by this year’s Life Ball motto. The legendary designer, true to form, again electrified attendees with his exquisite designs, exactly 20 years after his first Life Ball showing in 1995. Gaultier has been active in the fight against HIV and AIDS for many years and has been awarded with amfAR’s Award of Courage, among others.

Most noteworthy were AIDS LIFE and Life Ball Founder Keszler’s comments during a press conference for Life Ball and its associated events where he shared, “When you leave this press conference, with your notebooks full of names of famous people and a full schedule for the second week of May, I would like to ask you to think about the following one more time. There is only one reason for all these events and the many famous names attached to your press kit: we want to and have to make a change. We need your help for achieving this. In the name of the Life Ball team, thank you for reporting on the Life Ball, but especially on the current situation of our common fight against HIV and AIDS. This is how you make a contribution to the fact that, one day, we will defeat the virus and give “social AIDS” no more chance.

LIFE BALL 2015 celebrations Photography by Kathy Ruiz

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join us F4D PARTNERSHIP OPPORTUNITIES

Fashion 4 Development offers many opportunities to partner, support and participate

FIRST LADIES ANNUAL LUNCHEON, NEW YORK FIRST LADIES ANNUAL LUNCHEON, LIFE BALL IN VIENNA Individual and Corporate Sponsorships

Leading Ladies Luncheon Series Individual and Corporate Sponsorships

PRESIDENT’S CIRCLE Specialized Product Branding Partnerships, including tailored benefits

LEAGUE OF GENTLEMEN Exclusive Men’s Club supporting F4D

SPOKESPERSON As a celebrity or high-profile personality, partner with F4D Support F4D Social Responsibility Programs and Awareness Campaigns

CONTENT, MARKETING AND ADVERTISING Get involved with the F4D TV and Media Group

F4D LIFESTYLE BRAND Innovative Partnership Opportunities

CONTACT US 212.327.3338 info@fashion-4-development.com

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FIRst 12

L ADIES Channeling classic Parisian chic, Â supermodel turned singer Carla Bruni is a loyal follower of French fashion houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Christian Dior.

Her signature look is one of ladylike tailored silhouettes.

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Image Courtesy of Getty Images Carla Bruni by Daniel Berehulak

Image Courtesy of Getty Images Carla Bruni by Daniel Berehulak

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CARLA BRUNI-SARKOZY

by Robb Young her the subtleties she needed in order to neutralise much of her controversial past through the language of fashion. And how to tactfully frame her beauty without allowing it to alienate those she encountered.

The metamorphosis from vixen to maven took place practically overnight.

Beauty can be a double-edged sword once you exit the profession where it’s the principal commodity. After marrying the president of France, one of the biggest challenges facing the former supermodel was how to downplay but still capitalize on her beauty. Carla Bruni also had quite a reputation to repair along the way.

To say that the French public were suspicious of the Italian-born heiress turned fashion model turned pop singer who married Nicolas Sarkozy three months after they met (and only four months after he was divorced from his previous wife) is an understatement. According to Bruni’s more vocal critics, before becoming Mrs. Sarkozy, her private life was a salacious soap opera based on feline charm and a faultless figure. She was a woman envied for having it all – wealth, looks, success and power by association – but scorned by the political establishment for her seductive prowess.

On her first major state visit after becoming first lady of France, a writer for the British newspaper The Daily Telegraph recounted the glowing reception she received with the headline, “Carla Bruni charms UK with fashion diplomacy”. Bordering on the contrived, Bruni was a bashful vision of retro chic in a slate grey Christian Dior coat and pillbox hat – a patriotic nod to France’s iconic couture house designed by a Brit, John Galliano - and an astute move that alluded to Jackie O’s signature style. Bruni’s ascent was made possible by favouring clean lines, understated glamour and a restricted palette. The danger for a 5’9” traffic-stopper to look overdone is always present so consequently Bruni chooses to err on the side of caution. But what has probably been her greatest tactic as first lady is mirroring her female counterparts’ style and perfectly calibrating her outfits to match the mood of the occasion.

She knows how to quietly sparkle without upstaging her company. Though she is too accommodating for some who see her as an opportunistic style chameleon, certainly this epithet is a big improvement from her many epithets of years gone by. Much of the credit for this goes to her dignified wardrobe and the graceful way she inhabits it.

Damage control came not in the form of choreographed PR stunts showing her charitable or compassionate side. It was far too early for that. Instead, Bruni used the toolbox most familiar to her – fashion. In just two years after moving into the Elysée Palace, Bruni had crafted a demure, regal image through a series of official visits where she dressed the part of a dutiful wife and respectable female figurehead for the country – not an easy feat for someone who still had nude photos circulating from her modelling heyday and who had lived in jeans and androgynous jackets during most of the years beforehand. It seemed that a decade working in the fashion industry had taught

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first ladies

HILLARY CLINTON

by Robb Young Hanging on every word she uttered, a class of law school students sat wide-eyed before the famous United States senator who had been asked to deliver a speech about civic duties and the usual motivational sermon given at a college graduation ceremony. After pausing to clear her throat, Hillary Rodham Clinton stunned the captive audience with what came out of her mouth next. “The most important thing I have to say to you today is that hair matters,’’ she continued in poker-face mode. ‘’This is a life lesson my family did not teach me. Wellesley and Yale Law School failed to instil [too]. Your hair will send significant messages to those around you. What hopes and dreams you have for the world, but more, what hopes and dreams you have for your hair. Pay attention to your hair, because everyone else will.”1 It was a two-minute long, twofingers up to the world rude gesture in the guise of a sarcastic punch line.

choices she made (which have been abundant enough over the years), it was her seeming inability to commit to any given style which caused her the most grief.

For twenty-five years, Clinton has been at the epicentre of international politics. Whether campaigning for her husband Bill, acting as his informal adviser, running for the presidency herself or acting as Obama’s Secretary of State, it has been a non-stop parade in the full glare of the media documenting the shifting fault lines of American superpower politics. For much of that time, Clinton has been on the defensive about some shifting lines of her own - namely, the silhouette of her wardrobe and the shape of her myriad hairstyles.

Above and beyond the nagging criticism for the

In truth, Clinton had been enjoying the relative safety of a first lady style stencil, one which had been moulded over hundreds of years around plodding parameters of femininity, stately glamour and understated pageantry.

Not since Jackie O had anyone revolutionised the wardrobe. All Clinton had to do was update it for the 1990s – which she did well enough to escape the lion’s share of criticism, except of course her ever-changing coiffure. A predictably pretty all-American designer cast kept her looking attractive and appropriate: Oscar de la Renta gowns for all the big occasions,

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Hence the deadpan humour in the 2001 speech that titillated the audience at her alma mater. At that time, Clinton’s second term as the American First Lady had only just come to a close and, as a newly elected senator in the US Congress, she no longer had to play second fiddle to her husband. Finally able to offer a cheeky retort to the eight years she’d been critiqued like a decorative object - of being constantly reprimanded for her hairstyles when all she really wanted was to get her hands dirty - she seized the moment. Although she knew full well that the scrutiny would not now end just because she was embarking on a bona fide political career of her own, she underestimated the challenge that lie ahead.

Kate Zernike, ‘Commencements; At Yale, Mrs. Clinton Ponders Hair And Politics’, nytimes.com (New York Times), 21 May 2001, http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/21/nyregion/commencements-at-yale-mrs-clinton-ponders-hair-and-politics.html (accessed May 2010)

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As her campaign got under way, the suits by designer Susanna Chung Forest were sewn up in a new palette of colours and luxurious fabrics. Tertiary toned jackets were paired with black trousers for casual small-town American pit-stops and monochrome top-to-toe suits in gallant jewel tones and dusty pastels for the big cities and the national stage. Her hair was given more bounce, volume and texture and her complexion a dewy glow.

slinky black Donna Karan dresses for evening, St. John knits and brightly coloured, gold buttoned skirt suits from lesser known labels by day.

Moving from White House wife to Capitol Hill woman-in-charge was unchartered territory. There was far too much room for interpretation and this was the sort of undertaking that Clinton was neither fond of nor particularly good at. The wardrobe of women politicians was a mine field yet to be detonated. To make matters worse, instead of slowly rising through the ranks of off-the-radar politics, she had to make the leap from presidential consort to politician with presidential ambitions under the surveillance of the entire planet. Despite her efforts to make the transition gradually by sporting the occasional black trouser suit or androgynous jacket during her final years as first lady, the new battalion of tapered trouser suits she sent marching into the Senate made for a rather abrupt change. The hair got shorter and more boyish in style too. Although the public understood she wouldn’t be able to dress the same as before, it was drastic enough to make them wonder, had she been playing dress-up all those years as First Lady?

Clinton kept this look after she lost the Democratic Party presidential ticket, taking it on the road as Secretary of State in President Obama’s administration. Although it’s a style that many still begrudge her, the very fact that she has settled on a uniform that’s enduring, respectable and somewhat flattering for her figure is probably a relief for her advisers. After all, the crusade to persuade her to embrace more of her femininity by slipping on a skirt and some shiny accessories is a bit disingenuous at this stage in her career – and whose definition of femininity should she chasing be anyway?

All Clinton seems to want, like so many before and since, is to find a look that will silence people so that she can get on with the job. While this may never happen, perhaps given a little more time and only the subtlest of refreshing and updating, her signature trouser suits might come close.

More worrying for Clinton’s dream to run for president was the realisation that her new image intimidated many members of the male electorate and alienated many more women. She either looked like she had something to prove or was afraid of her own femininity.

The verdict was that she had been overcompensating.

These excerpts are taken from the critically-acclaimed book “Power Dressing: First Ladies, Women Politicians and Fashion”, written by Robb Young (Merrell Publishers, 2011).

Robb Young is a London-based fashion business journalist and strategic consultant who contributes to the BBC, Financial Times, New York Times, International Herald Tribune and Business of Fashion among other publications. www.robbyoung.co.uk

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AGENTS of CHANGE Agents of Change are global influencers who work in partnership with F4D on initiatives that empower and advance world culture - from education and training, to sustainability and finance models.

FRANCA SOZZANI Goodwill Ambassador F4D, Editor-in-Chief, VOGUE Italia

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PEOPLE

MESSAGE BY F4D GOODWILL AMBASSADOR,

FRANCA SOZZANI s u s taina b l e p r o j e c t s I strongly believe in creating sustainable projects. Our project in Ethiopia is focused on the development of the brand “Made in Africa”, designed by local talents using local textiles. When developing a new brand of products, establishing proper distribution channels is always a challenge, but working through e-Commerce and YOOX.com over the last two years, as well as shops around the globe, we have found a means to successfully sell fashion products from Africa. Today’s market is very competitive in price, and consumers seek competitive pricing when they shop. While Africa cannot compete with Asia on this level of production when it comes to pricing, we produce high quality in a fair trade manner with regard to the environment and this is what is most important.

With support from F4D, filmmaker Stephen Crisman is collaborating with us to produce a documentary to create awareness about “Made in Africa”.

The film will highlight the process of production, from the start of the creative inspiration through to the craftsmanship and skills of the women employed who have received their dignity back by maintaining a job that offers them fair wages.

F4D is extremely active in the global fashion world and every year welcomes young, upcoming designers from developing nations to provide a way for them to be recognized as well as preserve their cultures. Young talents from these areas are given the opportunity to be showcased in Milan and New York during fashion week and are exposed to media and the A-List of the fashion industry. This year, we are launching a competition that will be the first of its kind in scouting talents from developing regions of the globe. The resulting impact will be to offer hope for a brighter future to many who would otherwise never have the chance to be recognized.

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people

Images courtesy of VICTORIA BECKHAM

VICTORIA BECKHAM f r o m ‘ G i r l p o w e r ’ t o e mp o w e r m e n t by sha ron pendana

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Since her stratospheric rise in the 1990’s, celebrating Girl Power as one-fifth of the megastar pop group the Spice Girls, to HIV/AIDS advocacy today, Victoria Beckham has put women at the forefront of her mission. Along the way, she has married one of the world’s most celebrated athletes and become the devoted mum to four children, all while building an acclaimed fashion brand for women. The Victoria Beckham Collection, at its core, serves to empower women to feel beautiful and bolster confidence t h r o ugh fa s hi o n .

In the early 1990’s, boy bands topped the music charts, but a British quintet of spirited, adolescent women shook up the industry with their debut single, “Wannabe”. The assertive, imminently danceable tune became the largest selling single of all time by an all-female group. Dubbed “Posh Spice” by the British press for her sophisticated demeanor, the ballet-trained Victoria Caroline Adams became an icon of sexy, youthful elegance. Designers from Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Roland Mouret have dressed her. She has appeared as the “face” of both Rocawear (2003) and Marc Jacobs (2008).

Leveraging her status as an arbiter of style, she designed VB Rocks, a limitededition denim line for Rock & Republic in 2004. In 2006, she launched dvb Style, and dvb Denim in 2007. In 2008, she quietly introduced the eponymous Victoria Beckham collection. The label quickly grew from mostly dresses to a full-fledged luxury fashion brand with separates, denim, handbags, eyewear, fragrance and even a diffusion line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham. The “posh” of her Spice Girls days remains, and the line is, season after season, beautifully conceived in modern refinement. As with the Spice Girls, Victoria has once again far exceeded early expectations of what she could produce. Earning her respected seat at the fashion industry’s table, she has proudly dispelled any notion from naysayers that her contribution to fashion would be a one-off. Her moxie and solid work ethic have served her well.

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As a successful businesswoman, an empowered partner to her husband and mother to their children, Victoria is unabashedly grateful. She lives the adage “to whom much is given, much is required,” feeling a responsibility to give back. Though she seeks to empower all women, she holds a soft spot for other mothers, including Mother Earth. Her philanthropic efforts are directed largely toward mother and child wellness (particularly eradicating preventable disease) and environmental stewardship.

In 2014, Victoria was appointed as Goodwill Ambassador to UNAIDs and in her steadfast philanthropic form, dipped into her vast wardrobe of designer duds to donate 600 items for a charity sale benefiting mother2mothers (m2m), an organization committed to ending pediatric AIDS in South Africa. m2m trains HIV-positive women with the latest information on HIV prevention to become Mentor Mothers to destigmatize and build trust in communities among other mothers facing the rampant discrimination of their HIV status. Victoria has said about her involvement, “After spending just a few days with these remarkable women (Mentor Mothers)…I wanted to do as much as I could. It really was a life changing experience.”

Victoria embarked on a similar mission in 2015, personally selecting 25 outfits from her toddler daughter Harper’s closet for Fashion Saves Lives, a fundraising initiative benefitting Save the Children.

She is committed to lending her time, resources, and platform as a celebrity to charitable causes that empower women, consequently empowering their children to live full, healthy and happy lives.

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WHAT ARE YOUR FONDEST MEMORIES GROWING UP IN ENGLAND, AND WHAT CHILDHOOD DREAMS ALIGNED WITH WHO YOU ARE TODAY?

“I had a happy, loving childhood. We were and still are a strong family unit of my mum, dad, brother and sister. My parents encouraged me to be who I wanted to be, to work hard to achieve my ambitions in dance and music. That work ethic is with me today in building my business and hopefully inspiring and encouraging my own children.”

AS AN ENTREPRENEUR WHO’S EXCELLED IN ALL FACETS OF YOUR CAREER, WHAT KEY VIRTUES DO YOU POSSESS THAT YOU CREDIT FOR THESE SUCCESSES?

“To believe in yourself, believe in your dreams and work really hard!”

WHO WERE/ARE SOME OF YOUR GREATEST INFLUENCES AND WHY?

“I’m influenced by all sorts of people; my parents, strong women everywhere, working mothers, creative, inspiring people. Those that challenge and question and create.

My children continue to be a source of inspiration every day!”

IN ENTERING THE FASHION ARENA, WHAT WERE SOME OF YOUR GREATEST CHALLENGES AND HOW DID YOU OVERCOME THEM?

“There were preconceptions, of course, but I kept my head down, worked hard and let the clothes speak for themselves.”

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU AND YOUR DESIGNS?

“I take inspiration from art, from places I visit and people I meet; sometimes from books, sometimes from my children.

If you keep your eyes open, inspiration can be found all around you.”

AS A STYLE ICON, HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?

“I consider myself a minimalist. My personal style has evolved.

As you grow in confidence, different clothes empower you in different ways.

My style is more relaxed these days.

If I’m doing a school run, then design meetings and then back to school for pickup, I need to be comfortable.”

SHARE YOUR VIEW OF THE IMPORTANCE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION.

“We all have a responsibility on both personal and professional levels to contribute to the environment with consideration; to be mindful of the materials we use, the way in which we produce our clothing and to support organizations who are looking at alternative resources for the future.”

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You have not only invested in your music and fashion career, but you have continuously given back to society and people in need, especially people living with and affected by HIV and AIDS. In 2014, Executive Director, Michel Sidibe of The Joing United Nations Programme on HIV and AIDS appointed you as Goodwill Ambassador for UNAIDS to help Strengthen the UN’s Advocacy Work on HIV and AIDS.

HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT AND WHAT DREW YOU TO THE EFFORT?

empower other women. I believe that no child should be born with a preventable disease like AIDS and I want to contribute and help ensure that treatment and prevention are available for all who need it. Together, we can achieve our common goal of an AIDS-free generation. We’ve made progress, but it’s time to step up the pace. We want a world of zero new HIV infections, zero discrimination and zero AIDS-related deaths.”

“Following a conversation with Anna Wintour, I was invited to go to South Africa and view the work of the Born Free Foundation and Dr. Mitch Besser’s amazing mothers2mothers organization. Whilst on the ground, I also connected with a team from UNAIDS and was inspired by their global reach and the UNAIDS agenda and commitment to ending mother-to-child transmission.”

HOW CAN WE ALL BE PART OF THE AIDS RESPONSE?

SINCE YOUR EARLY DAYS IN THE PUBLIC EYE, YOU’VE BEEN A STRONG VOICE FOR WOMEN AND GIRLS - AND NOW YOU’RE VOICING THE NEEDS OF WOMEN AND GIRLS AFFECTED BY THE AIDS EPIDEMIC - WHY IS THAT SO?

“We all have a part to play. We need to raise awareness, to educate and encourage people to learn the facts. Don’t discriminate; protect yourself and your loved ones. Know your status!”

“I am in a privileged position with a voice that people will listen to. I, therefore, have a responsibility to use my voice on behalf of others that are not always heard. I am a huge supporter of women. From my early days as a Spice Girl, through to the present with my fashion brand, my message has always been about women supporting women.”

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO GENERATION OF CREATORS/DESIGNERS?

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“Believe in yourself, trust your instinct, listen to the advice that those more experienced will offer you and then go for it! Dream big and work hard.”

WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES AND SUCCESSES IN RESPONSE TO AIDS, AND WHAT ARE YOUR NEXT STEPS IN THIS AREA OF WORK?

WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES AND PERSONAL PURSUITS FOR THE FUTURE?

“To see my children continue to grow up happy and healthy; to continue growing my business and to continue lending my voice in the fight against HIV and AIDS.”

“I have been involved in the AIDS response for more than 20 years – in the beginning, by supporting Elton John’s work behind the scenes, and lately in my role as Goodwill Ambassador for UNAIDS, I have seen a dramatic change happening over the years. AIDS-related deaths are decreasing worldwide. The number of new HIV infections globally has fallen and among children, new HIV infections have almost halved. As a woman and mother, I want to

TELL US WHAT IT MEANS TO RECEIVE THE F4D AWARD.

“It is a true honor. I am humbled that with so many wonderful people doing so many wonderful things, that F4D has chosen to present me with this award.”

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YUE-SAI KAN A M ult i - H y ph e nat e d F o r c e f o r C hang e by sha ron pendana

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An Emmy for her broadcast genius, twice honored with her likeness on Chinese postage stamps, YueSai Kan uses her pioneering spirit to be a global force for change. She reigns as a television host and producer, beauty mogul, author, entrepreneur, cultural ambassador, and passionate advocate for women and children.

In 1966, the People’s Republic of China stood on the precipice of modernism.

Yue-Sai, a young immigrant from Hong Kong matriculating at Brigham Young University in Hawaii, participated in a local beauty pageant that would help set the course of her life. This confident student’s plan was to become a classical concert pianist, but destiny lead her east to New York, where she bridged the worlds of the Far East with her adopted home in the West. By the 1970’s, with the cable television industry burgeoning, Yue-Sai took up the trailblazing mantle of host-producer of “Looking East” for a fledgling Chinese channel. So successful was it in accurately depicting Chinese culture for Western audiences, it enjoyed a twelve-year run; the final two on the Discovery Channel.

In 1984, Yue-Sai hosted live coverage of the 35th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China in a collaboration between America’s PBS and China’s sole broadcast network, China Central Television (CCTV.) Impressed by her presentation, the government-owned CCTV offered her a show, One World, to be aired twice weekly to their 300 million viewers. Yue-Sai’s program introduced newly-opened Communist China to the rest of the world; bringing global culture from over 17 countries to the people of China.

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Known as the most famous woman in China at the time, Yue-Sai, with her signature pageboy, influenced the styles of women across the country. The “Yue-Sai” bob became the “it” haircut. Parlaying her immense popularity and visibility, she created Yue-Sai Cosmetics in the early 1990’s to compliment Chinese complexions. In 1996, she sold the company to global beauty brand Coty, where it flourished. By 2004, it was acquired by the world’s leading cosmetic brand, L’Oréal.

After noting an overwhelmingly blonde, blue-eyed selection of dolls in China, YueSai introduced the Yue-Sai Wawa (“doll”) in 1999 to reflect the appearance and culture of young Chinese girls.

As an author, she’s dispensed advice on everything from modern etiquette and beauty to harmonious home decor; each book fusing traditional culture with western influences. With shows Yue-Sai’s World and Yue-Sai’s Expo, she continued to meld East and West fluidly. As popular as Oprah; as diverse in her interview subjects as Barbara Walters, Yue-San has interviewed everyone from Mother Teresa to artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude; from Chinese leader Jiang Zemin to Halle Berry.

A champion of women’s empowerment, she has, since 2011, served as National Director of Miss Universe China, recalling the empowering experience of competing in the Narcissus Flower Pageant nearly fifty years ago.

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WHAT INFLUENCES FROM YOUR YOUTH IN CHINA PLAYED A ROLE IN DIRECTING YOUR PATH TO THE WORK YOU DO TODAY?

opened up, the Chinese people had little confidence in their place in the world. Today, with their financial success they are emboldened. They know they can be successful not only on their home turf, but they can also change the world. By exporting their values, they hope to be able to play a bigger role in affecting positive social changes.”

“My parents worked really hard to make sure that my three sisters and I lived the kind of life they wanted us to live. They were also extremely giving. Through them, I understand the meaning of true giving. They would take in strangers and feed them. Most of the work I do today is giving back. I started a foundation called the China Beauty Charity Fund. We support the betterment and advancement of women and children through education, health, and cultural programs worldwide.”

HOW DO YOU VIEW CHINESE/AMERICAN RELATIONS TODAY AND WHAT CAN WE EXPECT, OR DO YOU HOPE TO SEE?

“There is still a lot of misunderstandings between America and China; it can be eliminated through contact at the grassroots level. I’ve always believed that people-topeople exchanges are very important. So, I hope to see more interaction. At the leadership level, I encourage more members of Congress to visit China to see for themselves what this country is all about. They will find that many of the stereotypes about China are untrue. I am a strong believer in travel for everyone. It’s only through seeing and experiencing other cultures that you truly understand them.

From the Chinese leadership, I wish for less control of the media and popular web research and social tools such as Google, Facebook, and YouTube.”

YOUR EFFORTS TO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN CHINESE AND AMERICAN CULTURES HAVE BEEN CONSTANT THROUGHOUT MUCH OF YOUR CAREER. WHAT ARE THE GREATEST SHIFTS YOU’VE OBSERVED SINCE BEGINNING THAT JOURNEY?

“Thirty-five years ago, China was not on everybody’s lips. Today, it has become a global powerhouse exerting influence in every area, from world finance to politics to culture. It has achieved its status faster and higher than anyone would have anticipated. Before the country

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YOUR TELEVISION PROPERTIES AND BOOKS HAVE PLACED YOU AMONG THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL PERSONALITIES, GARNERING MANY AWARDS. TO WHAT DO YOU CREDIT THAT RECOGNITION AND WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD of?

“Good eating habits and exercise; I study how to maintain my health. I have worked hard to understand money and the acquisition of it. I make every life decision based on four questions to myself: Is it something I have special talents fort? Do I have the passion for it? Is it good for others? Does it help China to open up further to the world?”

“I have attempted to do things that no one has done effectively before. I’m proud of my groundbreaking One World series on CCTV that opened the eyes of a billion people within China to the outside world. I’m proud of establishing the cosmetics category of business in China. It’s a tool that defines female individuality and empowerment that was non-existent in China twenty years ago. I was the first to teach the Chinese people television production skills, makeup skills, and modern etiquette. My nine books, each first-of-its-kind, are highly educational.

To have been able to influence millions to change their perception of the world and themselves, I contributed to China’s monumental opening to the outside world. I am probably most proud of this.”

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE GREATEST CHALLENGES AND HOW DID YOU TRIUMPH THROUGH THOSE CIRCUMSTANCES?

“Moving from Hong Kong to Hawaii at the age of 16 without knowing anyone there, was a challenge. Moving to New York after college under the same circumstance, with only $150 in my pocket was scary, too. Doing business is difficult, but doing it in a newly opening China was next to impossible with me barely speaking Mandarin! Producing a TV series for a country that did not know anything about the outside world at the time and working with old-fashioned Chinese media authorities was a real challenge. I work hard, and I follow my passion.

That’s how I triumph.”

AS ONE OF THE FOREMOST AUTHORITIES ON BEAUTY AND ETIQUETTE, CAN YOU SHARE SOME FUNDAMENTAL BASICS FOR ACHIEVING YOUR BEST?

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CAN YOU SHARE SOME OF YOUR GREATEST LIFE LESSONS? “I learned them all from my parents: 1) You can achieve anything you wish if you work very hard – hard work DOES pay off!

2) Be kind to others no matter who they are; not just to the powerful and successful. Everyone should be equal in your eyes.

3) Be generous and be giving. Anything you give out returns at least double. It has been true in my life.

4) You are only judged on how you live your life in your final years. At this time are you healthy and full of vitality? Financially secure? Are you loved and do you love? Are you proud of what you have done in life?

What you have done should be not only good for you but for others as well. Your answers to these questions will define you as a person.”

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CHARITABLE WORK AND WHY IT’S SO IMPORTANT TO YOU.

WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES FOR THE FUTURE, BOTH PERSONALLY AND FOR YOUR MANY INITIATIVES?

“I’m involved in a number of charity initiatives, such as The Prince’s Roundtable on Philanthropy. I support Operation Smile and have helped many children regain a life that is beautiful. I build schools and libraries in China and give scholarships to particularly outstanding women. I support the Shanghai Soong Ching Ling Foundation, improving the lives of underprivileged women and children. My money has been made mostly from women, so I try to give back to empower women financially.”

“I hope to be able to do more of the same!”

WHAT DOES RECEIVING F4D’s WOMEN’S CHAMPION AWARD MEAN TO YOU?

“It is always an honor to be recognized.”

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MARK DYBUL A G e n t l e man W i t h A C au s e L e agu e o f G e n t l e m e n Awa r d R e cipi e n t M a r k D y b ul , Ex e cu t iv e Di r e c t o r o f t h e G l o b al F un d t o F igh t A I DS , Tu b e r cul o s i s an d M ala r ia

By Julia Chance 38

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Tackling deadly diseases on a global scale requires an unwavering dedication to serve people and a deep understanding of the complex world of diplomacy and international partnership. Dr. Mark Dybul has dedicated his career to both.

As an immunologist, clinician, scientist and public health administrator, he has been on the forefront of infectious disease research and prevention.

As an undergrad at Georgetown University, Dybul’s academic interests were centered more towards the arts and humanities than science. That all changed after he read an article on the global spread of HIV. It affected him greatly and led him to attend medical school and study immunology.

After graduating from Georgetown University School of Medicine in 1992, Dybul spent the early part of his career as a fellow at the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases. While there, he conducted the first randomized, controlled trial with combination antiretroviral therapy in Africa. He also worked extensively with AIDS patients in San Francisco during the darkest days of the epidemic in the United States.

President George W. Bush appointed him as the United States Global AIDS Coordinator — the U.S. AIDS Ambassador — charged with building and running the President’s Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief (PEPFAR), the largest international health program ever established for a single disease. During his tenure from 20062009, he led efforts to reduce the costs of HIV treatment and prevention and to increase the accessibility of both.

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Image courtesy of THE GLOBAL FUND. Photography by Kuni Takahashi

After leaving PEPFAR, Dybul served as co-director of the Global Health Law Program at the O’Neill Institute for National and Global Health Law at Georgetown University. He has written extensively in scientific and policy literature, and his research papers in virology, microbiology and infectious diseases hold a prominent place in medical science for their pioneering discoveries in the research field of HIV and other viral infections.

In 2013, Dybul became Executive Director the Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria, an international financing institution that partners with low-middle income countries fighting the three diseases. Each year it invests close to $4 billion to support programs run by local experts in countries most in need.

Since the creation of the Global Fund in 2002, deaths caused by AIDS, TB and malaria and new infections have been dramatically reduced worldwide.

Mark Dybul is receiving the League of Gentlemen Award for his commitment to fighting AIDS, TB and malaria, and for his status as a respected international leader and tireless advocate for people most affected by diseases. Here, he discusses his early influences, the efforts of which he is most proud, future goals for the Global Fund, and how a dose of optimism can go a long way in the face of overwhelming challenges.

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Image courtesy of THE GLOBAL FUND. Photography by Juda Ngwenya

Where did you grow up and what influences surrounded you that directed your path?

As this was nearly two decades ago, what were the biggest challenges you faced then, and what reforms have been born of those challenges that have changed the way we manage care today?

“I grew up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. My family and my schools had a big influence on me, including a Jesuit education.”

“There were many challenges, and one was widespread pessimism that we could achieve anything by investing in low-income countries. But we knew we had to try, and I think we can say today that more has been achieved to reverse the trends in HIV than any of us dreamed possible.

A truly significant change that came out of that experience was developing a partnership model, where governments and implementers, civil society and the private sector and people affected by the disease, worked together to find solutions. That is a game-changing mindset.”

How did your education and work in the medical field impact your vision for your future?

“I originally studied poetry and philosophy. One day I read a story on global HIV, and it changed my life. I knew it was what I wanted to work on. I went to medical school, and then studied immunology. I pursued science because it was not enough to comfort people who were dying of AIDS. I hoped I could contribute to finding larger solutions.”

Can you tell us about the non-profit organization and your role with Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria?

During the George W. Bush administration, you were appointed to aid with global initiatives impacting AIDS. What was that role and how did it come about?

“The Global Fund was designed as a partnership to fight HIV, tuberculosis and malaria, and to constantly evolve to meet connected challenges in global health. We raise and invest nearly $4 billion a year to support programs run by local experts in more than 100 countries. We challenge barriers and embrace innovative approaches. I am honored to serve as Executive Director.”

“I was privileged to help develop, implement and ultimately to lead PEPFAR. It started as an idea, to try to make a difference to reverse the trend of HIV in Africa, and it became the biggest bilateral investment for health in human history. I was very lucky to be part of it.”

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During your tenure, can you share your vision coming in and how that’s evolved?

“Awards are moments to share recognition with the many partners who contribute. No one award or moment can shift that.”

“My vision coming in was that we can actually end these epidemics. That has not changed. We can achieve a lot more than anyone thinks possible, if we constantly grow and evolve and innovate.”

Through your fight against and awareness for AIDS and other diseases, what is your proudest accomplishment?

“I was taught never to be proud. But it has been and continues to be a tremendous privilege to be part of a historic movement that is striving to end two diseases that have been around since recorded history, and a third that is the modern black plague.”

Whom or to what do you credit most for the growth and advancement in this arena?

“I credit and thank the partners who work on the ground to treat and care for those affected by HIV, TB and malaria.

These are preventable diseases, but it takes really hard work to end the epidemics. It is people on the ground who make the most difference.”

What can we as a nation do to promote and aid change?

What are the biggest challenges ahead for this field and what is the outlook for overcoming them?

“More than anything, we can embrace a spirit of service.

Americans are generous people, and many of us find the greatest satisfaction in life is serving others, especially those who are less fortunate.”

“One big challenge is funding. There isn’t enough money to fund all the great programs that can have a big impact in the lives of people affected by these diseases. Part of our role at the Global Fund is telling everyone what can be achieved, and persuading them to fund it. That challenge is growing, partly because we are a victim of our own success. As HIV rates go down, people think it is less of a crisis. But the truth is that there are still millions of people who need treatment.”

Looking ahead, what do you most look forward to in your life and work?

“I love working on a great cause, like I am now. I look forward to the moments ahead, when we can look back and point to great achievements in global health, and say, “we did that together.”

How does it feel to be the recipient of F4D’s League of Gentlemen award?

You have been the recipient of many awards and honors, all of equal weight and distinction. Was there one that shifted your view of your own success and vision for future contributions?

“It’s a great honor.”

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JOSIE MARAN M ODE L C I T I ZE N

By Corynn e Corb et t

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Socially conscious and committed to using beauty as a catalyst for change, model turned entrepreneur, Josie Maran, has found success by creating cosmetics and skincare products that respect the environment while adopting business practices that seek to improve the lives of women.

Josie Maran has always been a change agent and is passionate about making a difference. She may have first captured our attention with her appearance in The Backstreet Boys’ video “Everybody” and in Guess? campaigns in the late 90s, but her focus has never been solely on her outer appearance. The Northern California native was raised to have respect for Mother Nature and to do her part to protect the environment, and as a result she has always wanted more for herself, her family and the world. In fact, it was her interest in the world around her that would set her on a path to social entrepreneurship. “Five years before I launched my line, I was modeling in the South of France and I met this 70-year-old woman who looked like she was 40. She told me she used Argan oil so I started to use it every day,” Maran shared with Racked.com. “I used to have breakouts and my skin was really dry and I used very popular products and moisturizers that were not made of natural ingredients. I switched to Argan oil every day and night on my skin and on my hair and it was amazing. I began dreaming about starting a healthy and natural line.”

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Not content to simply put her name on a product, Maran instead took a hands-on approach and the journey led her to Morocco where she researched how the oil is extracted from the Argan tree. “The oil only grows in Morocco but a lot of people in the area sell it. The oil is protected by UNESCO so that it’s sustainable and the trees aren’t cut down,” she told Racked.com. “All the argan trees are harvested by women’s co-operatives, but a lot of [the people working in the area] are corrupt.

Morocco isn’t the most politically safe place and women don’t have equal rights.

So I went there to meet with different people and make sure they were doing what they said they were doing. [The people I work with] make sure that money is given back to the women, the wages are fair, and the farm is sustainable.”

But the path from discovery to the launch of Josie Maran Cosmetics in 2007 was not without its challenges. She was adamant that her formulas not only be of the best quality and perform well, but they also needed to be paraben-free—which in the early 2000s was not a popular request—so finding the right lab required tenacity. Maran enlisted friends and family to test her formulas instead of animal testing. She also wanted to make sure that her packaging was biodegradable and recyclable. Securing funding proved to be the biggest hurdle. Investors, even those with knowledge of the beauty industry, weren’t willing to take the risk on her concept. But Maran remained undaunted and made the decision to self-fund her venture, pouring almost every cent she had into the business. Fortunately, she found retail partners who did believe in her vision. Barney’s and Sephora made it possible for consumers to become fans of her brand over time. The line’s popularity increased further when Maran began to also sell the line on QVC. Today, with more than 150 skus, the brand continues to grow in popularity.

The business is very much a family affair – husband Ali Alborzi serves as the company’s president. The couple, along with daughters, 9 year-old Rumi Joon and 3 year-old Indi Joon, divides their time between homes in Los Angeles and a farm in Pennsylvania. And she hopes to instill in her daughters that beauty is all about empowerment – for oneself and others.

Maran believes that her work and her life are indicative of her values. “I’m a very simple person. I love camping, going to the beach, trying to get outdoors as much as possible. I love dressing up and wearing sparkles and diamonds, as well as designing makeup in beautiful colors – but I get my inspiration from nature,” she told Philadelphia Style.

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of Planet Earth and partnered with different environmental organizations like National Resource Defense Council (NRDC) and Global Green.”

What was your life like growing up and what were your dreams as an adolescent?

“I’m from the San Francisco Bay area where I grew up in a very bohemian household. I was taught from an early age by my parents to conserve, care, reuse and recycle, as well as to be incredibly resourceful. My dad is a green builder and my mom is the ninth of thirteen children (so you know they had to reuse everything). They both taught me to respect the planet we’ve been given. Ever since I can remember, I have always dreamed of changing the world.

I knew that one day I would play a role in making our world a much better place.”

As a model/actress/entrepreneur, how did you transition into Josie Maran Cosmetics and what was your vision for the organization?

“My mom has been my biggest mentor. She always taught me to ask questions and stand up for what is right and good!”

“I’m a natural born entrepreneur, so when I was modeling I would ask a lot of questions about what was possible in the cosmetics space. I was always asking why companies weren’t exploring healthier ingredient alternatives in beauty and skincare products. When everyone told me that creating highly natural and high performing beauty products was impossible, I knew that I could prove them wrong – I knew there had to be a better way! I realized that the world was ready for an elegant cosmetics line that was designed to be in harmony with the Earth and that’s how Josie Maran Cosmetics was born.”

When do you first recall being drawn to charitable work and activism in the environmental arena?

Your company tagline is ‘”Luxury With Conscience”. what does that mean to you?

“Both of my parents are very eco-conscious and taught me to respect Mother Earth in everything I do. So I grew up saving the whales, cleaning beaches, recycling, and being as resourceful as possible. When I started Josie Maran Cosmetics, I built it on the foundation of being a steward

“Luxury with a Conscience means we create the highest quality products and experiences for women, that are in harmony with nature. My hope is that our products demonstrate the care we take and allow each woman to demonstrate her own care for the planet.”

Who are/have been your greatest influencers/ mentors and why?

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In the cosmetics field, what do you perceive are the greatest challenges in creating organically/ socially conscious products and how have you overcome them?

What are the greatest challenges that you think we face with the environment today, especially in the fashion arena?

“I think a major issue is over-consumption. Less is more in my book so I think there needs to be a fundamental shift in how we think about how much stuff we need in our lives.”

“To be a leader in the environmental and socially conscious beauty business, it takes great determination and thought to create consumer goods that are responsible and friendly to Mother Earth. We are constantly pushing boundaries and we feel that we are at the forefront of many new pathways to creating products that are carbon neutral and sustainable.”

What do you hope to contribute to address those challenges?

“I think walking the talk is the best thing we can do. I also think if you have a voice in the industry, you must use it as a force for good – speak loud and proud!”

Culturally and globally, what shift in consciousness have you seen over the last decade in greening initiatives?

What’s next for Josie Maran and what do you hope to see?

“I think the world has evolved a lot since we started Josie Maran Cosmetics 8 years ago. But I still believe that we have a long way to go. My team and I hope to be the pioneers of how to be best in class as well as a model for many organizations who want to walk the path of being a socially and environmentally conscious company. I think people realize now that we must start thinking and acting responsibly or we won’t have any more resources left to create what we want.”

“We are working on a plan to empower many people to re-invent our Planet to its full potential.”

What does receiving F4D’s Eco Award mean to you?

“Receiving F4D’s Eco Award is such an honor and I see it as a little wink from the universe saying ‘Josie, keep on going for your dreams and thank you for being so passionate about making our world a beautiful thriving place for our future generations!’.

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AMMA s pi r i t ual l e a d e r , humani ta r ian , an d vi s i o na ry 50

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Mata Amritanandamayi Devi, or Amma as her followers and admirers around the world lovingly call her, is a spiritual leader, humanitarian and visionary who has served the world-community for decades, imparting wisdom, strength and inspiration to rebuild a concerned and caring society.

Through her extraordinary acts of love, inner strength and self-sacrifice, Amma has endeared herself to millions and inspired thousands to follow in her path of selfless service. Within her global network called Embracing the World, she has initiated a vast network of charitable activities such as hospitals, educational institutions, research for societal transformation, disaster relief programs, vocational training, environmental programs, free homes for the poor, orphanages, and much more.

Amma is known for her distinctive way of receiving people by embracing each and every person who comes to see her. To date, she has hugged 36 million people around the world.

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Growing up in India, you experienced some challenging times in your youth, yet you had an innate wisdom that helped you cope and persevere.

How did you decide on your life’s mission?

and goats. A family typically had 10 to 12 children. In one home, I would see the children clinging to their mother and crying because they were so hungry. Their mother would be trying to console them, but she herself would be in tears. In another house, I would see children who were well fed and playing happily.

“In my childhood, if anyone had even a quarter of an acre of land and five people asked if they could build a hut on it, the owner would allow them to do so because people had faith in each other. The landowner knew that, if necessary, the people would vacate. There were about 70 small huts spread throughout the 10-acre village.

The pain that some people were experiencing was unbearable for me. I felt like jumping into a fire and dying painfully in empathy. I wondered, “Why do some people have to undergo so much suffering and others do not?

Why are people so unhappy?” The answer that came from within was that their suffering was due to their previous

When I was about eight, I started going to these houses to collect leftover vegetables and rice gruel to feed our cows 52

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actions. I also thought, “If a person falls into a pit due to carelessness, is it right to call it his karma and not help him?” I realized then that my mission in life and my responsibility was to love and serve people.

you realize the oneness of creation, the pure undivided consciousness that shines in and through everything, through every single atom. Once you are established in that state, selflessness and compassion spontaneously flow through every word and deed.”

I would take food from my house and give it to those in need. The elderly would tell me their sorrows. Their children and relatives would not look after them properly. I would wash their clothes, give them a bath, feed them the food I brought, console them, and help them in whichever way I could, even though my family would scold me.

What does it feel like to be embraced by the world and to embrace others?

“It is not actually a feeling but a blissful state of oneness.

The embrace is not just physical. It is born out of pure unconditional love. When there is a meeting of hearts, there is no ‘I’ and ‘you.’ Two disappears and dissolves into one, into absolute unity. ‘I love you,’ the common expression all over the world, transforms itself into ‘I am love,’ where the sense of ‘I’ and ‘you’ merges and becomes one.”

Thus, I spontaneously began to listen to people’s sorrows and wipe their tears. When I saw their suffering, I would have them lie in my lap or lay their head on my shoulder.

That is how darshan began. And in sharing their sorrow, I would forget myself. I would identify myself with them. If our right hand is hurting, the left hand will automatically caress and console that hand—because both the hands are “mine.”

Similarly, I did not see these people as different from me.

How did your grassroots efforts transition from local to global?

“When selfless love and compassion becomes your first and last step as well as the beginning and end of your life’s journey, all doors automatically open before you. At that point, it is not ‘you’ (the ego) that is working. The universe takes over. That power beyond comes to your aid. Objectively speaking, it is the selfless service of my children, the volunteers from across the world who were the first to open the doors, and they continue opening new possibilities. They are my true wealth. The real accomplishment that I try to teach, is transcend both success and failure.”

Men in the family were given the most importance. Food was served to the men first. Women would only eat if there were leftovers. Men were not supposed to wash their clothes or dishes. That was the responsibility of women.

We were conditioned to respect men. This was the culture of my village.

So, when I began to receive and hug men and women alike, it raised concerns within and outside my family. It was totally unacceptable and I faced severe challenges.

Regardless, I stood firm because of my strong conviction, trust and realization that, “Love alone can transform.”

What is core to your message?

“Love and serve with no expectations. Love has always been the message of all religions, of all spiritual masters all over the world. Self love, love for God, and love for others should be the progression. But self-love is not falling in love with one’s ego. It is falling in love with the precious gift of life -- the life principle that pulsates in every living and non-living being. Once you have that kind of ‘self love,’ love for God and love for the totality of existence arises from within, it culminates as love for others.”

Tell us about the bridge that connects you to enduring compassion and understanding.

“Compassion and understanding are not two. They are one and the same. Compassion cannot arise without right understanding. First, you have to have an in-depth understanding of life. That will deepen the love within you, the inherent power of God, which will eventually help 53

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Evie Evangelou meets with Amma at the United Nations, July 8th 2015 54

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Contentment is not meant to curb ambition, but in reference to possession of wealth, spiritual values urge us to “Earn more and give more.” This attitude helps us to be peaceful, to be able to live a life that has no stress. Determine what you as an individual need – but, thereafter, become a philanthropist. Look beyond your own family to the world family. Improve not only the home in which your children live, but also improve the world in which they live. This is what spiritual values teach us.”

To what or whom do you credit success?

“First to God, the mysterious power that guides us all. This is the inner power that gives us the ability to think and act with discernment, which determines everything and decides the final outcome. Secondly, I credit my virtuous children, the volunteers who are willing to dedicate their lives for the benefit of the world. My life is an offering to the world. Once you become an offering, you have no claims. In fact, you go beyond the limitations of your ego.

My one and only wish is to be like an incense stick that burns out by giving fragrance to everyone.”

Looking forward, what do you most want to accomplish?

How has receiving global recognition impacted your vision for the future?

“I respond to situations as they come. This has always been my way. I teach acceptance, and I practice that path. If your attitude is positive and accepting, you live with God even while busy in the world. With love, compassion, and acceptance, the feeling of ‘Otherness’ is replaced with the feeling of ‘Oneness.’ The feeling of ‘I Am’ is replaced with the feeling of ‘I Owe’ to the world and my fellow beings.”

“When groups and organizations bestow awards and honors for good work that people do, it sends a clear message about the value of virtuousness. The path of virtue demands unwavering faith and fortitude. As one’s staying power deepens, one’s work, thoughts, and presence gain a natural acceptance and respect. The power of virtue, when translated into action, becomes a way of life.

Awards confirm that people who care for the well being of the world, who see the world as one family, can be a role model. It also helps other people contemplate their actions and attitudes and gradually turn towards a life of giving.”

What is it about the work of Fashion 4 Development that resonates with you and what does it mean to receive their Medal of Honor award?

“The tag line of F4D is “Giving Back is the New Luxury.” The world is impermanent. Despite our efforts to look beautiful, the body is also impermanent. All the objects that wealth affords us are impermanent as well. It’s best to accept this truth and use well-earned wealth to make a difference in the lives of those less fortunate. The result will be peace of mind, a more valuable form of wealth. As for the award, I cannot take credit for this prestigious recognition. There are so many selfless people whose tireless energies allow Embracing the World to create meaningful change in the lives of the very poorest rural villagers in India and around the world. I applaud the creative people who belong to the Fashion 4 Development organization and who have a real understanding of and a commitment to the value of incorporating innovative solutions for sustainable development while uplifting girls, women and youth globally through economic and social empowerment.”

What are the biggest challenges we face morally, and what can we do to shift our consciousness to change?

“Erosion of spiritual values is the biggest challenge. To be spiritual means to be humane. Spirituality is all about living life in accordance with the law of nature. When everyone observes traffic rules, there are fewer accidents.

If not, accidents increase. Similarly, spirituality is the underlying influence that keeps the universe in balance.

It doesn’t belong to a particular religion or faith. It is for everyone. By practicing spirituality, we gain both inner and outer wealth, knowledge, and strength. We learn to be content with only what we need. Whatever is surplus, we contribute back to the world – to the poor and needy.

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angelogalasso.com LONDON

8-10, Hans Road - SW3 1RX

NEW YORK

768 Fifth Avenue - The Plaza at Central Park - NY 10019

MILANO

Corso Matteotti 8 - 20121

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MOSCOW

Bolshaya Dmitrovka 20/1 - 107031

FORTE VILLAGE

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info@angelogalasso.com

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Image courtesy of BRYAN OKNYANSKY

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57 Photography by Jorma Gottwald, Fashion: Kimberit, Shoes: SHOES BY BRYAN

STYLE MAKERS

ANGE LO GA L A S SO e m b r acing an in t e r nat i o nal i d e n t i t y BY lucie herring Angelo Galasso, known for his high collared shirts, celebrity clients and perhaps most famously the pioneering Watch Cuff shirt, talks tradition, heritage and plans for the future.

Images courtesy of THE ANGELO GALASSO BRAND 58

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THE watch cuff, by angelo galasso

“Where I come from, from the moment you are born, you are seen as a typical boy, so if you start to do something that is atypical, like dressing really differently, people immediately tell you, you are crazy. But I came from a big family where you always had to fight for attention, which is why I moved to Rome and then London where people like you to be an individual and you are actually encouraged to be different.”

- Angelo Galasso

Born in a small Puglian town in 1959, Galasso’s sense of style was established from an early age. Having started his revolution in the 90’s with Interno 8 (the shirt dedicated brand that in a few years’ seduced Italy and famous celebrities including Paul McCartney, Roger Moore and fellow Italian Alessandro Gassman), a decade later Angelo Galasso assumed the role of Creator and Pioneer of Billionaire Italian Couture in the British capital.

But it wasn’t until 2009 that Galasso fully realized his dream and launched the eponymous Angelo Galasso brand, now with flagship stores in London, Milan, Moscow and New York.

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Launched in London, the capital of tailoring brought to Galasso’s brand major success, thanks to high-profile clients such as David Beckham, King Abdullah of Jordan, Puff Daddy, Michael Caine, Simon and Yasmin Le Bon, Rod Stewart, Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Al Pacino and Mickey Rourke. “It’s an excellent place to live and to start a business,” says Galasso.

His far-reaching success led to Galasso acquiring many accolades and has seen him defined as “this generation’s most inventive image maker” by the Financial Times’ How To Spend It Magazine. He has also received enormous recognition for his own prestigious style and unique elegance, leading him to the highest positions of British GQ’s Best Dressed Men’s list, both in 2012 and 2013.

Making a place in history too, “a timeless creation” is how the London Design Museum describes Galasso’s Polso Orologio (watch cuff) shirt.

A design that well and truly secured the extraordinary tailor a place in fashion history, Galasso’s watch cuff has been celebrated internationally, providing inspiration to many aspiring clothes men, worldwide. A super adept design, for those not in the know back in 2004, the prestigious London Design Museum exhibited the revolutionary concept to fashion aficionados around the globe.

The designer is a true an d play s t h e pa rt

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“Our brand philosophy is to use the classic Neapolitan cut for jackets and to construct shirts in the old fashioned way,” says Galasso. “My customers, however, want to stand out so we might do a few things differently, such as make a watch cuff, but everything is made in true Italian tradition.”

Moving with the times, the Puglian born artist is now setting his sights on expansion and commercial sustainability. “Today’s fashion is less throwaway and more about heirloom pieces. Something that is wellmade and built to last, with the emphasis on exceptional craftsmanship.

That is every Galasso garment,” Galasso shares.

With a new generation showing a more caring and more conscious approach to fashion, Galasso wants to resonate with this group, nourishing precious and traditional Italian craftsmanship to create rare, bespoke pieces. The brand has always promoted Italian artisans and continues to work with masters of the trade who make garments by hand from superior materials. Galasso also insists on taking extra care to preserve the heritage of the brand, where his Italian flair continues to shine. “It’s about demonstrating resourcefulness with sustainable practice to create an item of outstanding beauty,” Galasso continues.

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- QK magazine, uk

“Angelo is an artist.

You see the craftsmanship in his work.�

- Al Pacino

Angelo Galasso and Al Pacino at the 68th Venice Film Festival

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It’s not the first time Galasso has touched upon sustainability; a few years ago, the shirt maker up-cycled vintage silk scarves into one-off shirt designs.

Finished by hand, each shirt was its own unique work of art – a tailored treasure for the consumer to appreciate for a lifetime. His new SS16 collection goes further with the use of organic fabrics in the form of pure cottons and silks, drawing inspiration from the glamorous Golden Hollywood era, featuring a menswear line reminiscent of the period’s most prominent icons such as Martin Scorsese’s Aviator and filmmaker Howard Hughes.

Pertinently, the brand has given itself an overall target to meet 10% of their production with sustainable practice over the next 5 years, further expanding their use of organic and sustainable materials and techniques.

Additionally, Galasso is focusing hard on expansion and will have close to “400 points of sale within the next 4 years, with 54 being our own standalone boutiques.”

With his magnetic personality, it’s easy to see how his individual style embodies each new collection, design and boutique – each one taking on a part of Galasso’s character. And from a simple dream of wanting well designed, well fitted, hand-made clothes for himself, it appears Galasso has captured the desire of a new generation – to stand out, be unique and get noticed. With its sophisticated Italian charm and commitment to craftsmanship, we think the brand does just that.

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STYLE MAKERS

BRYAN OKNYANSKY s t e p in t o t h e fu t u r e wi t h s h o e s BY b ryan

BY BRYAN OKNYANSKY Bryan Oknyansky, an innovative designer, takes the fashion industry and the runway to the next level with 3D printing technology.

BRYAN OKNYANKSY, Founder of shoes by bryan 64

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Images courtesy of BRYAN OKNYANSKY

Not everyone believes 3D printing will change the world or stand the test of time, and they are usually non-users of the technologies.

But I am a staunch believer that 3D printing is a game changer and here to stay. And I believe that the fashion industry is a major player in securing the future of 3D printing.

I find fashion and 3D printing very compatible. The former wants things to change fast all the time, and the latter is happy to make something new every single time it is used – because 3D printers are endlessly programmable. Unfortunately, this is precisely why the fashion industry is not currently as sustainable as it could be. The industry, as we know it, must make hundreds of thousands of the same products intended for obsolescence in as little as six weeks, and that does two things: it needlessly endangers life on Earth and fails to meet the needs of individual consumers.

Enter 3D printing.

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THE FIRST STEPS As an undergraduate architecture student at Woodbury University in Los Angeles, I became an expert in 3D CAD, traditional building materials and methods, and robotic manufacturing through my own volition. And this is both a blessing and a curse. The blessing is that it has allowed me to design and manufacture whatever comes to mind. The curse is that it has enabled me to design and manufacture whatever comes to mind. In a postIndustrial Revolution world of specialization, I decided to confuse everyone and specialize in more than one thing.

In 2011, fashion brand Kimberit asked me if I could create innovative, high heel shoes to accompany her haute couture collection launch at Paris Fashion Week. Having never designed high heels before, I said yes. I knew I could do it. I just didn’t know how yet. After an intense design process inventing methods to design shoes with Rhino (3D CAD), I was faced with how to manufacture the shoes. Unfortunately, there was no chance that I would learn about the UK footwear supply chain and contract the necessary craftspeople in time for the show as I designed something sufficiently groundbreaking.

That was the moment I discovered 3D printing with titanium alloy and my debut collection Heavy Metal Series materialized.

I learned a great deal from this one project. I learned that 3D printing high heels could be incredibly expensive if you use the same technology NASA uses for making rocket parts. More importantly, I learned that I had just created history. To this point, 3D printing had the industrial nickname “Rapid Prototyping�. Manufacturers used it as a means to see a final version of the products they would spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to mass manufacture before they started production. But I had made an end-user product with it.

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shoes by bryan. Fashion Fringe Catwalk Competition at London Fashion Week 2012. Photography by MEL BAGSHAW

one step at a time Now, the possibilities seem endless. Having acquired my own 3D printer in 2012, I invented the world’s first wearable, customizable and eco-friendly 3D printed high heel shoes that would debut on the award-winning Fashion Fringe catwalk show during London Fashion Week that year, and Shoes By Bryan was born. It took Nike four decades to offer customization, where Shoes By Bryan offered it as standard from day one.

Imagine if the world’s biggest and most coveted fashion brands explored this new era of innovative products and consumer engagement opportunities.

3D printers seem innately predisposed to one-offs and limited editions. With pop-up shops operating as the new flagship store, 3D printers can be easily ported from shop to shop to create an experience worthy of keeping existing customers interested while inspiring new ones to join your community. And with 3D printers being able to print with precious metals, plastics, ceramics and edible materials, the future of sustainable brand swag has arrived, too.

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Shoes by Bryan. Photography by Jorma Gottwald

The great news is that everyone everywhere can play. Shoes By Bryan is not only helping to put value back into Made In Britain with its localized manufacturing, it is giving new importance to the meaning of Made In. Both developed and developing countries should take pride in engaging in a new era of manufacturing that can take place where you are. Carbon footprints can take a radical turn for the better and pride in place can make its way back into the market as a mark of value.

Ultimately, I am after a trendsetting renaissance where consumers have just as much say as brands do in what gets made in this world. And as long as my products inspire people around the world to think differently, I will continue to play my part in the larger scheme of design and manufacturing, reinventing the world one product at a time.

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Des i r ĂŠ e B o lli e r T H E BR A N D T H AT I S VA L U E RETA I L

DesirĂŠe Bollier is Chief Executive of Value Retail Management. Value Retail is the creator and operator of the Collection of ten luxury outlet shopping Villages across Europe and China, including Bicester Village near London.

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What defines the Collection of Value Retail Villages?

“The experience is everything. We are not in the ‘outlet business’. We are all about experiential retail: we curate a unique experience for our global guests by incorporating the best of art and culture into our programmes, whether it’s a new pop-up boutique showcasing the collections of emerging designers, an exhibition of a local artist or photographer, or a live event taking place right in the heart of the Village. The Villages offer a similar experience to a luxury department store: a carefully curated edit of brands – both international and emerging – in an open-air, landscaped setting, with a selection of VIP services. We take pride in the appearance of the Villages. Each one is unique, with architecture inspired by the region in which it is located. No detail is too small: from the gardens to the bathrooms, we take the utmost care in every aspect.

To complete the luxury experience, guests can take advantage of a suite of superior services, which includes everything from Personal Styling to Valet Parking.”

What are the reasons for the shopping tourism phenomenon, and how does this emerging sector add value to your brand partners?

“Again, it all links back to the experience. During the past six decades, tourism has experienced continued expansion and change, becoming one of the fastest-growing economic sectors in the world. Despite occasional interruptions, international tourist arrivals have demonstrated almost uninterrupted growth, from 277 million in 1980 to more than 1 billion in 2012. And when people travel, they search for unique and memorable experiences, and shopping is a part of that. As the UNWTO observed in the recent Global Report on Shopping Tourism, shopping has always been an element of tourism, but it is now increasingly becoming a deciding factor when people choose to travel. By embracing shopping tourism, we can introduce a unique type of customer to the brands: the travelling luxury consumer. Our guests are sophisticated, well-travelled and discerning, and are natural full price customers. According to research conducted by the Boston Consulting Group, more than a third of guests who made purchases from luxury brands in the Villages by Value Retail bought from those brands for the first time, and 85% of those guests now intend to buy at full price.”

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What are the reasons for the shopping tourism phenomenon, how does this emerging sector add value to your brand partners?

“Again, it all links back to the experience. During the past six decades tourism has experienced continued expansion and change, becoming one of the fastest-growing economic sectors in the world. Despite occasional interruptions, international tourist arrivals have demonstrated almost uninterrupted growth, from 277 million in 1980 to more than 1 billion in 2012. And when people travel, they search for unique and memorable experiences, and shopping is a part of that. As the UNWTO observed in the recent Global Report on Shopping Tourism, shopping has always been an element of tourism, but it is now increasingly becoming a deciding factor when people choose to travel. By embracing shopping tourism, we can introduce a unique type of customer to the brands: the travelling luxury consumer. Our guests are sophisticated, well-travelled and discerning, and are natural full price customers. According to research conducted by the Boston Consulting Group, more than a third of guests who made purchases from luxury brands in the Villages by Value Retail bought from those brands for the first time, and 85% of those guests now intend to buy at full price.”

What are the challenges, expectations, experiences and motivations that you need to consider when marketing to and serving the travelling luxury consumer?

“Our guest is discerning, sophisticated, and has high expectations. We aim to go above and beyond to ensure that our guests have an exceptional experience with us.

Today, tourists have so much choice – there are so many places to go and so many ways to shop – it’s crucial that we stand out from the crowd, and we do this by delivering superior service. We adapt to our guests’ needs organically, continually evolving our suite of services and our overall offer to keep exceeding their expectations. We ensure the experience that guests receive within the boutiques is on a level with that they would experience in the brand’s full price store. Therefore, there is something new and exciting to discover with every visit, and the brand mix at each Village is continually refreshed, with new brands and pop-ups appearing all year round.”

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Visitors enjoy lunch while shopping in the Village.

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How have you navigated the balance between managing the day to day and building capabilities for the future? For instance, how does talent management and recruitment need to evolve?

We ask our teams to operate at two speeds. The first is immediate – we need to be nimble and reactive, understanding our guests’ needs and aspirations while ensuring we are agile enough to satisfy and even exceed these, in order to deliver exceptional experiences on a daily basis.

The second mode is longer term: staying ahead of the curve in order to negotiate the ever-changing retail landscape, and putting those building blocks in place to develop talent for future generations. We have several initiatives in place to support talent sourcing and training. We are the first international retailer to partner with Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, the world’s leading hospitality school. Together with EHL, we have developed an exclusive hospitality training programme, which forms part of our staff training initiative, The Academy by Value Retail. We also source talent through special career events. By sourcing and nurturing high calibre, international retail talent, we can deliver both five-star service to our guests and lasting value to our brand partners. We are a significant employer in the ten regions in which the Villages are located and we are here for the long term. The travel and tourism industry as a whole needs to transform to attract the right talent: this is an exciting industry with unlimited opportunities and it’s essential that we convey that message in a compelling way in order to attract and nurture the very best.

We also support the fashion talent of the future through projects such as the British Designers’ Collective, an annual pop-up boutique in collaboration with the British Fashion Council at Bicester Village near London, which gives emerging designers an opportunity to showcase their collections to an international audience. Earlier this year, Kildare Village near Dublin presented ‘In the Fold’, an exhibition of the most exciting young Irish fashion design talent, in association with ID 2015.

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What do you think are the most important focus areas for you as a CEO and the executive team? Do you believe this is different to what was required in the past?

We will continue to innovate and evolve the experience for our guests with a special focus on hospitality. Guests are more informed and demanding than ever before. It is important that we anticipate their desires, to ensure that we deliver a completely satisfying experience. With the rise of the internet, shopping has become either functional or experiential – and those in search of an experience are looking for something distinctive. In an increasingly digital world, communication is transparent. Thanks to social media, word of mouth is instant, so it’s more important than ever to ensure that the experiences our guests receive exceed their expectations. The tourism industry needs to adapt and evolve, embracing technology to enhance the customer journey.

The future for us is exciting. We are currently expanding into China – the first Village in China, Suzhou Village, opened in May 2014, and the second, Shanghai Village, is on track to open at the heart of a Chinese government, multi-billion dollar project in Shanghai, in spring 2016. Kildare Village near Dublin is set to unveil 36 new boutiques and two new restaurants in November, while Fidenza Village near Milan is scheduled to open an expansion of 26 boutiques in 2017.

With the festive season around the corner, what are your top tips for shopping during this busy period?

It’s always a good idea to start your shopping in advance. This saves any last-minute panic and allows you to really enjoy the process of choosing a gift. The services available in the Villages make festive shopping stress-free: guests can take advantage of Valet Parking on arrival and they don’t even have to carry their bags with our Hands-free Shopping service. We also offer international shipping and a bespoke giftwrapping service. And if finding that perfect outfit for the festive party season seems too daunting, our Personal Stylists can point them in the right direction with a one-onone appointment.

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Sara Cavazza leads the way to

a better future through

genny BY alice braccini

Synonymous with Italian artisanal tradition and glamour, Genny redefines its role in the fashion arena with a new creative leadership.

Founded in 1962 by Arnaldo Girombelli and led by his visionary wife Donatella, the brand gained international recognition thanks to its high quality and sophisticated collections. Over the years, Genny turned into an iconic fashion house with a very forward vision and it served as a platform to launch the career of young and talented designers such as Gianni Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Claude Montana and Christian Lacroix.

Genny carved a unique place in fashion history as the first Italian brand to hold a show at the White House, perpetuating the brand’s values of class and femininity.

Sara Cavazza carries forward the torch of the 1962 founders. From the carefully selected fabrics, to the local artisanship and manufacturing, down to the minutia details of the final packaging, Genny is entirely designed and produced in Italy. It embodies the excellence of Made in Italy whilst promoting the local Italian employment and help support the Italian economy.

Sara’s commitment to social responsibility extends as well to environmental issues. Fabrics and materials are subject to rigorous testing and treatments, choosing only those with reduced environmental impact. Such choices are made to enhance employees’ working conditions whilst providing the consumer with a superior product certified and approved by the brand’s suppliers.

Following the steps of her predecessors, Genny’s new creative director Sara Cavazza is driven by her vision to create beautiful garments and accessories for savvy international women who value elegance and femininity.

Drawing inspiration from her everyday life as well as women around her, Sara’s creations are characterized by delicate patterns and luxurious fabrics that enhance a woman’s essence.

Sara Cavazza’s ongoing commitment to social causes is the perfect fit to lend Genny’s support to Fashion 4 Development and what the organization stands for: Promoting underprivileged women around the world through learning a craft and creating economic independence.

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beyond heritage

Cultural Sustainability Meets Approachable Luxury The Heritage: Created by Women for Women The Hueb family has been in the jewelry business since the 1970’s, when matriarch Fádua Hueb started selling jewelry to her friends in the city of Uberaba, Minas Gerais. Since the very beginning, the company has made itself unique and exclusive by designing and manufacturing all its collections in-house. Today, following in her footsteps, Hueb is a family owned business spanning three generations and continues to create unique designs that bring joy and inspire the modern woman to express her individuality.

The Woman: Effortless Elegance She causally walks and never goes unnoticed. Her innate sense of style is more than a poem. She is full of grace and elegance. Naturally sensuous. She is feminine and classic, yet her fashion sense does not skip a beat. Eclectic and complex. Her independent character reflects that she is self-assured and discerning.

She is savvy. Well-traveled and spirited, she sparkles with brilliance and charisma. She is the joie de vivre and expresses it every day.

Tribal Collection Blend the exotic with the unique, on a journey deep inside the Amazon rain forests. Adorn yourself with nature’s raw beauty and creations. Inspired by the tribes of Brazil, each piece in the Tribal Collection pays homage to an indigenous world.

The Promise: Inspiring Creativity, Everyday Hueb has its customers at the core of its universe. The Hueb customer is treated as a member of the family at every touch-point of her experience. Hueb builds long lasting relationships. Through constant innovation, Hueb strives to offer a sense of discovery and to complement a woman’s personal style that is always evolving. Hueb inspired creativity. A favorite among women self-purchasers, Hueb’s jewelry has a subtle balance – careful not to be ostentatious, but elegant and appropriate for everyday wear; Hueb every day.

The Flagship Hueb Strives to offer a sense of discovery to complement a woman’s personal style that is always evolving. It was this harmonious blend of classic with contemporary that enthralled Soigné Kothari – Founder of Soigné K, when she first chanced upon the brand in Brazil. This led to the launch of the brand’s flagship store on Madison Avenue, in the previous location of Soigné K. 80

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Beauty & Style

BE A U TY & STY L E

JOSIE MARAN L uxu r y W i t h a C o n s ci e nc e

Just over ten years ago, I was on a modeling trip in the south of France and met a beautiful older woman whose skin visibly glowed with health. I guessed that she was around 40 years old – turns out she was 70! Her centuries-old secret? Argan Oil.

It’s been rocking my world ever since.

There isn’t much it can’t do. It’s light enough to use as an everyday moisturizer, yet powerful enough to soothe the symptoms of skin ailments like acne, eczema or rosacea.

And it’s more than a by-product for a pretty face. Our Argan Oil is a world-changer in a bottle, organically grown, then harvested by Berber women who support themselves and their families by selling us their liquid treasure. Health, beauty, and women empowering themselves: that’s the essence of Josie Maran Cosmetics.

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Why Argan Oil? Our 100% natural, 100% organic, pure Moroccan Argan oil is harvested and cold pressed from the nut of the Argan tree. It’s a multi-tasking miracle moisturizer that’s organically grown and naturally chemical-free. As one of the rarest oils in the world, it has earned the nickname, “liquid gold”. It’s rich in high concentrations of vitamins, minerals and powerful anti-oxidants. Vitamin E and essential fatty acids are Argan oil benefits that help hydrate and soften your hair, face, body, nails and everything in between.

Here’s how I use it: BODY Smooth Argan Oil all over after a shower to lock in moisture and silken your skin like never before, or use Argan Balm to troubleshoot rough patches on elbows, knees, ankles…anywhere! Try adding a few drops to your favorite body cream or bath water… amazing! For the ultimate luxury, spoil your skin with my Whipped Argan Oil Body Cleansing Butter followed by my Whipped Argan Oil Body Butter.

L IP S Kiss dry, chapped lips goodbye. So natural you can eat it, Argan Oil is the perfect pick to smooth, soothe, moisturize and add an alluring touch of shine. Smooth on a drop with your fingertips, or try our Argan Balm, Argan Infinity Lip and Cheek Creamy Oil, too! For date night, my Argan Love Your Lips Lipstick and Coconut Watercolor Lip Stain and Shine are perfect!

FACE The ultimate, all-natural night cream. Smooth a few drops of Argan Oil or my new miracle in a bottle, Argan Milk, onto clean skin before bed for a night of deep moisturizing and repair, then lock it in with Argan Infinity Cream. During the day, apply Argan Oil under your favorite sunscreen for a naturally moisturized glow, or skip a step and apply both at once with my best-selling Argan Daily Moisturizer SPF 47.

ACNE I know it seems counter-intuitive to add even more oil to acne-prone or excessively oily skin, but believe it or not, Argan Oil miraculously balances your skin’s oil production to bring these conditions back under control, heal blemishes, prevent new breakouts and reduce scarring. Those with especially oily skin may prefer the featherweight feel of our Argan Oil Light.

HAIR Just wait until your thirsty strands drink up the allnatural goodness! Smooth Argan Oil onto wet or

WRINK L ES Watch them fade as the anti-aging power of Argan Oil’s essential fatty acids work deep under the skin

dry hair for shine and softness, to repair split ends, and to protect it from heat styling. When my hair’s acting frizzy, I like to rub a few drops between my hands and pat them over my hair to tame fly-aways.

Works like a charm! I also love, love, love Argan

to plump and repair at the cellular level. My absolute favorite wrinkle weapon is Argan Milk – so gentle you can even use it as an eye cream.

Oil Hair Serum as a moisturizing styling aid.

NAIL S Dab a drop of Argan Oil or Argan Balm on rough cuticles and smooth into your nails to watch them

My Favorite Argan and Coconut Water infused product is my Coconut Watercolor Cheek Gelée. It gives your cheeks a cooling wash of color and is packed with Argan Oil to nourish and infuse skin with nutrients. Another favorite is my Argan Color Stick

shine with natural beauty – no polish required.

which is the ultimate multi-tasker for lips and cheeks!

CHEEK S

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Photography by Jorge Rivas Hair by LaurentD PrivebyLaurentD at The Sherry Netherland. 212.308.7100 Make Up Keke Cifferello Jewelry by Helen Yarmak, emerald and diamond earrings in white gold

haute COUTURE 85

GUO PEI

AN INTERVIEW WITH China’s Premier Haute Couture Designer B y Ru t h Su t cliff e

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HAUTE COUTURE

Before the annual Met Ball this spring Chinese haute couture designer, Guo Pei, was virtually unknown in the United States.

But when Rihanna made one of the grandest entrances ever wearing Guo Pei’s opulent and magnificently elaborate canary yellow, fur-laden cape, it is no surprise that this formidable designer has come to the forefront of fashion buzz. For months after the Ball, the world’s fashion journalists, bloggers, and anyone who follows fashion, were scurrying to know who Guo Pei was. What was discovered? Guo Pei is a “gem” and an anomaly in the fashion world, where haute couture designers are typically from France or Italy. Internet searches on Guo Pei’s designs show some of the most exquisite and intricately detailed costumes ever seen. Her designs incorporate aspects of Chinese culture, Renaissance-inspired shapes and paintings, fantasy, and bring the “wow” factor to an entirely new level.

But the now famous Met Ball cape was not Guo Pei’s first entry into the New York Fashion scene. F4D’s Founder and President, Evie Evangelou helped introduce Guo Pei to the U.S., in association with the China Beauty Charity Fund in 2013. The fashion show at the annual fundraiser featured several pieces of Guo Pei’s magnificent designs, and brought more awareness and appreciation of the craftsmanship and beauty of Guo Pei’s artistry.

We will see more of Guo Pei here in the U.S. and abroad, as she has most certainly gained many fans and followers since the Met Ball. Admirers of her craft can soon purchase a color line of cosmetics that she has collaborated on with MAC Cosmetics in September.

Guo Pei generously answered a few of my questions regarding her fashion, her future, and her artisanship:

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Did you always dream of becoming a fashion designer?

“First of all, I don’t really think that I’m a fashion designer. I prefer haute couture designer, because haute couture not only belongs to fashion, but also contains culture and craftsmanship. Moreover, it can be long-lived and inherited. To be a designer was my dream since childhood. I began to learn design when I was 16 and I never thought I could engage in any other profession. So I’m so lucky that I can do what I like and what I dreamt to do. Also, I will love it forever.”

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Many of your dresses incorporate Chinese art and history. tell us about some of your gowns.

“I think “Dajin” is one of my works that is more famous now. All the patterns of this piece derive from the head of an animal that has always appeared in Tibetan Thangka paintings. Another piece would be the blue-and-white porcelain one. This piece is definitely full of Chinese traditional culture elements. In my fashion show, “The Legend of Dragon” in 2012, I also used a Chinese traditional mythical animal-dragon as my design inspiration and characteristic of craftsmanship. Two pieces, the dragon pattern on “Jinlong” and “Beilong” mix other patterns in this collection and express my understanding of Chinese culture.”

Do you have a few favorites within your collections?

“So far, my favorite is “Dajin”. It’s like my child and is what I consider my first haute couture work. It’s also a portrait of my design career; after spending almost 50,000 hours and mounting failures, this piece was finally presented to people (the public).

This was a very exhaustive process yet the experience was remarkable for me.”

What fashion designers are you inspired by?

“So many designers like DIOR, Chanel, McQueen and so on. They are pioneers. I gleaned a lot from their understanding of fashion, beauty and haute couture.”

ARE YOUR dresses AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE, or are they made to order?

“I have some stores in China, including the store in a prime location on Wangfujing Street. Also, my studio is located in Beijing. There are stores in Hangzhou and Shanghai, too. Now, I am presenting my salon collection, which is not only custommade, but also could adjust depending on the client’s style, measurements and details.

Certainly, I would like to settle my studio in Paris so more and more people get to know me and my work.”

Would you ever plan on designing Ready-to-wear, or are you going to remain solely a couture designer?

“I don’t think I will engage in “Ready-to-wear”. Based on the understanding and experience of fashion and craftsmanship, I wouldn’t design for that, which really belongs to fashion. But I would like to bring “semi-couture” to the market in the future.

I hope that more women could have one or two pieces of perfect and exquisite pieces that are designed by me and my team, and that they would be the classic pieces in their wardrobe and the perfect pieces that could stand the test of time.”

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Your Met Ball dress for Rihanna astonished and captured the fashion world’s attention. Can you share your vision? What steps did you take to design it, and how long did it take to construct it?

“The dress Rihanna wore at the Met Ball is actually one of my designs from 2010. It was released in the “One Thousand and Two Nights” collection. What Rihanna wore was just the cape from that look. She saw that somewhere, probably on the Internet, and she contacted us, telling us she wanted it. I can say that she came to know me because she fell in love with my design first. She loves the color yellow. It is the color of the emperor in China. In ancient China, only the royal family is entitled to wear yellow.

I wasn’t sure she could pull it off until the first fitting. She has absolute confidence and a strong mind, and she made it. Not everyone can wear my designs like that. When she stood on the red carpet in this exquisite and majestic dress, she looked just like a queen. She re-interpreted the beauty of my design. It is not just my design anymore; it’s the beauty and charm of Rihanna herself that made it. I’m so very glad that she brought my design back to life again.

I’m aware that some people are making fun of this dress and they are posting pictures everywhere online. I don’t mind. I think it’s just another way of enjoying my design.

I understand there are different ways of appreciating something. As long as people love it, I’m happy.”

How many people WORKED ON the Rihanna dress?

“About 50 workers, including a designer, one technician, two pattern designers, eight decorations designers, thirty embroidery workers, two cutting technicians, and more.”

Most fashion designers around the world have their own perfume. If you were to have a perfume, what would you want it to smell like?

“I have been very eager to have my own perfume and I had a dream about combining the idea of fashion shows and perfume many years ago. The fashion show’s inspiration comes from lilac. I envision my guests smelling the special and strong fragrance when they enter, so my designs would be lilac colored and similar elements. In addition, I love rose very much because my studio is named after the rose. If I have a chance to create my own my perfume, I would choose those two flowers.”

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S PO T L I G H T ON T HE ART O F

EXTRA

ORD I N A I RE

AND OTHER ‘NOTE’WORTHY PERFUMERS B y Ru t h Su t cliff e

Having more than 25 years as a fragrance developer has allowed me to work with some highly talented perfumers. I was also married to one, who was raised in Grasse, France, so it was almost a given that he would grow to be involved with the perfume industry in one way or another. Perfumers are a very special “breed” of human beings. They are artists in their own right. Some are dreamers while others are pragmatists; most are sensitive and philosophical, but I would say all are lovers of nature, for it is often nature that inspires their creations, and many of the most precious raw materials come from nature itself.

Many perfumers have science backgrounds, but not all. More often than not though, the perfumer has to marry creativity with science, and have the intuition and knowledge to balance the two, as one drop too much of a particular material can throw the formula off and upset the balance and harmony of the scent. To be a perfumer of Haut Parfum, is to be a master of the art of perfumery with a talent for exactitude in combining sometimes hundreds of natural raw materials in a formula.

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For years, perfumers were rarely mentioned in the marketing and press releases of fragrance launches, or at the sales counter. Perfumes are known by the brand names, or by the marketing companies that bottle and sell them. More recently however, perfumers are developing their own perfume “houses�, and sometimes even the brand names such as Frederic Malle, place the perfumers front and center of the scents that they market. Perfumers are now finally getting the recognition due for their craft, just as artists, writers, and performers do.

In light of that recognition, it’s only apropos to highlight these outstanding perfumers who formulate for Haut Parfum.

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Le Prix,

P e r fum e Ex t r a o r d inai r e The Perfume Extraordinaire Award was launched at the Fragrance Foundation’s FiFi Awards in 2009 to recognize the actual “juice” of a fine fragrance. Each year, fragrance companies are allowed to submit a fragrance formulation to the contest to be judged solely for olfactive creation, craftsmanship, quality and measure of aesthetic beauty. The fragrance candidates’ scents also had to have been launched within the award year. Winning this award not only recognizes the Essential Oil Company, but also the perfumer(s) who, as olfactive visionaries, inspire us most when their creations move the market forward.

From 2009 until just recently, a panel of fragrance experts unassociated with any fragrance house or company did the judging. The panel of judges was only known to the Foundation and submissions were judged ‘blindly’. Below are interviews with 3 perfumers who recently garnered this recognition, and revealed details about their inspirations, their formulas, and their craft:

Clement Gavary is a third generation perfumer, with roots from Grasse, France, so one could say it was a natural that he would follow in the footsteps of generations before him, and be trained as a perfumer at International Flavors and Fragrances.

Perfume Extraordinaire was given to Clement this year for his unisex fragrance, Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Saffron. The fragrance was inspired by the east, and was specifically targeting the Middle East market, where fragrance is an important part of everyday grooming. Freshness on the top notes is given by the use of marigold and bergamot, with a lush floral heart of the highest quality Turkish Rose, and lavender absolute. Depth and warmth are given to the fragrance by Benzoin from Siam, and sustainable Tonka from Brazil; the mystique aspect of the fragrance is given by resinous raw materials of Somalian Myrhh and Ethiopian Olibanum. My first reaction to the fragrance when wearing it was that it was heavy and thick, but as I wore it, I had a very different reaction. It was dark, and mysterious, and the top note of saffron gave a fresh leathery modern effect that actually carried through to the middle of the fragrance.

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When asked about his inspiration for this fragrance, and why he chose to use saffron as a key top note, Clement said, “Saffron is like the orris or jasmine in the spice family, and it was a personal challenge for me. It brought back memories of my grandfather in the South of France who cooked a lot. He used saffron on fish dishes and couscous as they do in North Africa. Saffron is multifaceted, so the idea was to enhance it with other smells, making it fresher, easier, and warmer.“ For Clement, using natural raw materials such as the ones he’s used in his creation are like “life”, and having the ability and freedom to work on a project where one can create using many naturals are like “a breath of fresh air.”

What was the first fragrance you wore?

WHAT IS the price of saffron vs. orris, And how IS saffron obtained? Where is the saffron from that you used?

“Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme (1994) created by my father, Max Gavarry at IFF.” Why do you think you selected particular fragrance to wear?

“Saffron absolute is 10 times less expensive than Orris Absolute, but twice more expensive than Rose Absolute. Saffron Absolute is obtained by a volatile solvent extraction originating from Turkey, Iran, and Afghanistan.”

that

“I became very attached to that scent because during high school, I was lucky enough to wear the different mods of it while being developed

by IFF and my father.”

What was your first big “win” and how did that affect you emotionally?

“Prada Amber would be my first big win. It was 4 years in the making, and there are no words strong enough to describe how I felt after that win! It was outstanding!”

Is there any particular fragrance material you like to work with?

“Patchouli heart, Neroli Essence, and Jasmine Absolute Sambac.”

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fragrance is its breathtaking “trail” or “sillage” that it leaves behind. (untitled) is packaged in a sleek but simple apothecary-like bottle, with what looks like a font from yesteryear, typed from a Royal Typewriter.

It is my intuition that (untitled) will remain an icon within the fragrance world as leading the way for the resurgence of modern green notes, something not seen since the late 70s.

D a n i e ll a A n d r i e r is known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer for many iconic fine fragrances such as Bottega Veneta Knot, Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani She, and most Prada fragrances. Of all of her magnificent creations, I am personally attached to one she created for Maison Martin Margiella, which won the Perfume Extraordinaire Award in 2009. Even though the fragrance was created in 2009, it was not launched in the U.S. until 2014, and has gained an increasing amount of fans since. I can vividly recall the day that I read about this new fragrance in one of the industry journals, and made a special lunchtime trip up to Saks Fifth Avenue to find it. Weaving through the aisles of Saks, I spotted the minimalistic and beautifully elegant display of the fragrance atop a white pedestal, its bottle wrapped partially in white, accompanied with white feathers. It was only after I sprayed the fragrance on my skin that I realized that the white feather was a perfect delivery symbol for the message of this fragrance: a very straight forward elegance given by a clear, crisp green theme followed by a light airy sensual muskiness, that lifted me up like a feather into that “ahhh” moment that I look for in a fragrance. The fragrance was captivating! But the most stunning aspect about this

Your creative work for Maison Martin Margiela garnered a very important Fragrance Industry award, “Perfume Extraordinaire” in 2011. TELL US your inspiration and THE challenges you had creating this modern masterpiece.

“I am happy to know that you like it so much. I was inspired by Maison Martin Margiela and love to translate with my olfactive language a universe, the modern green theme, which I admire and understand.

It was a wonderful work in progress…the only challenge was to keep true to the initial idea while working to find the best version of it.”

You are also known in the Fragrance Industry as the “Prada perfumer”, because you have created almost all of the Prada scents on the market. tell us how this evolved.

“Apart from the first female Amber perfume, I created all of the fragrances for Miuccia Prada. I feel as responsible and concerned as if I was the Prada in house perfumer – the only difference between me and a true in house perfumer is the fact that I do also work for other brands, but other than that…I don’t see any difference.”

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F r a n k V o e kl was born in the countryside of

Besides sandalwood, tell us of some of the other ingredients you used in in Santal 33?

Bonn, Germany, and has vivid memories of his uncle’s farm, where pungent barnyard odors like hay and fresh rain first piqued his interest in the scents of nature.

Frank spent his childhood and teen years abroad in the Netherlands and France, and his curiosity about the many cultures of Europe informed his growing interest in people of all backgrounds.

“Cedarwood, cardamom, violet, leather amber and iris.”

You also won recognition for Tiare by Chantacaille that you developed when you were quite young as a perfumer. This rich, lush fragrance was created in honor of your wife, who is from Tahiti. What else inspires you when you create for projects?

Frank has always loved travelling the world, and Tahiti, where he met his wife, is an ongoing inspiration in his creative work. It has given him the ability to dream, be inspired and connect with nature.

“I believe in creating fragrances that have a true soul.

My goal is to craft scents that will evoke a profound emotional connection, with the power to elicit pure, unadulterated happiness.”

The background of Chypre fragrances is perhaps indicative of what inspired the iconic Le Labo best seller, Santal 33. Its deep, rich boldness is recognizable in the trail it leaves behind, and according to a company representative at Bergdorf’s, she hears customers’ testimonials all the time about their positive experiences while wearing Santal 33. I, myself, followed a colleague from the ladies room down the office corridor to ask her what perfume she was wearing. She looked at me as if she had heard that question many times before, and proudly said, “Santal 33.”

What fragrance was the first you wore, and what do you wear now?

“The first fragrance I remember wearing is Chanel pour Monsieur after receiving a sample of it. I was around 16 years old then. I enjoy wearing Santal 33 from Le Labo, Brioni men’s and when I travel I wear Terre d’Hermes.”

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Ralf Schweiger achieved enormous recognition within the industry with his fragrance, Lipstick Rouge for Frederic Malle, and has created fragrances for brands such as YSL, Atelier Cologne and Hermes. In 2014, he was given the Perfume Extraodinaire Award for his creation, Iris Nazarena for the upscale fragrance boutique, Aedus de Venustus. The fragrance, deep and rich, is what one would imagine the straight oil from an iris would smell like. Absolute of iris was utilized as a core ingredient in this creation, and is wrapped with resinous and rich warm background ingredients such as agarwood, incense, amber and leather, and highlighted with precious ambrette seed and anise star. The fragrance is so preciously luscious and would accentuate the sensuality of any woman wearing it.

Ralf’s ability to use noble raw materials to create a fragrance so magnificent and rich is why I chose Ralf to develop Fashion 4 Development’s 2015 First Ladies Parfum, a very complex and sophisticated formula consisting of raw materials from various parts of the world.

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Where were you born, and when DID you realize the fragrance industry was your destiny?

“I was born in Bielefeld, Germany. For my studies I was torn between art and sciences, but started out with chemistry, finally majoring in fragrance chemistry in Berlin. As a student, I had a job with a company that specialized in window dressing for perfumery stores, which provided ample supplies of testers. This and my mother’s love for scent influenced me tremendously.”

What inspires you in your work?

“Anything can inspire me as long as I stay curious and open-minded, but often it is just smelling and re-smelling perfumery raw materials and the unchartered territory of combinations ahead!”

You received great industry recognition at last year’s U.S. FIFI awards for “Perfume Extraordinaire 2014”. tell us about your creation, its “notes”, and where one can purchase that perfume?

“This was for ‘Iris Nazarena’ by ‘Aedes de Venustas’, the downtown perfumery shop.

They now distribute their own line of perfumes. You can purchase their fragrances online at Aedes.com or in their boutique on Christopher Street. One of the most expensive raw materials on the perfumers’ palette, natural Iris (or ‘orris’ in English), is rarely used in fragrances nowadays because of the prohibitive price. The owners of Aedes gave me the opportunity to indulge myself in using a good amount and steered me to try an iris-leather combination, which is quite unusual and fits nicely with the grey tones of the bottle and packaging and contrasts well with the other important note here: juniper berries – another earthly delight.”

For this year’s Fashion 4 Development First Ladies fragrance, can you tell us about your inspiration, and about the ingredients within your formula?

“Like a true citoyen du monde, this fragrance exudes cosmopolitan sophistication while sensitively blending cultures and styles. Its sustainably-sourced ingredients read like a well-stamped passport: scintillating top notes of Italian bergamot and Sichuan pepper shimmer atop tropical passionfruit. A generous heart of Indian jasmine and French rose de mai embraces sensual Namibian myrrh. Oakwood and vanilla enhance and sustain eco-friendly versions of sandalwood and musk. The warm, inviting dry down is the essence of eco-luxury travel, in a bottle.”

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THE WORLD SHOULD BE IN LOVE WITH BY KILIAN

Being an heir to the LVMH Group, no one was surprised when Kilian Hennessy entered the prestigious fragrance market with his first perfume, L’OEuvre Noire.

And, when his brand was launched in the U.S. in Bergdorf’s, the word spread like wildfire and many fragrance industry pros rushed to the store to look at the exquisite, iconic black bottle with fine gold trim. Inside these bottles contain some of the most elegant, rich, and expensive raw materials masterfully blended by one of the world’s most renowned perfumers in the fragrance business, Calice Becker. When I first met Calice, I thought that she was the epitome of elegance: soft spoken, beautiful, petite, delicate, and always elegantly dressed.

Even though I featured Calice in last year’s “Haut Parfum” article, I couldn’t just let it go at that, as it’s obvious that she “has the touch” when it comes to creating such a great collection of scents for this truly beautiful brand. So with the focus on By Kilian, I wanted to share more about Calice, her inspiration and approach to scent creation.

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you have created many fragrances for the artisanal line of fragrances called, “By Kilian”. TELL US a little about your creative process?

“There are three creative processes or ways of working with Kilian on his perfume collection. One is where Kilian comes with a very strong idea for his next perfume.

This usually is inspired by his travels and he shares that experience. For instance, on a recent trip, he had a coffee flavored with cardamom. This inspired the fragrance, Intoxicated, which was the ingredient story. There is also a feeling or emotion that Kilian explores, like with Sweet Redemption. He’ll bring me a poem, a title of a book, a moment, and then I have to create it. The last route is where I come to him with a different olfactive idea that I am personally inspired by, to explore a new story or create the next fragrance in a mini collection. I find it’s a very close partnership. I go to his stores and counters and speak with the Kilian fans; they are very special people, very educated and interested in the structures of the perfume, the stories and the ingredients.”

One of your Kilian creations won the Fragrance Foundation’s Indie Award this year. What’s its story? What makes By Kilian garner such a great award?

“Intoxicated By Kilian won for Indie as well as Packaging of the Year for Men. The last three Indie Awards for Fragrance Foundation were won by Kilian – quite an accomplishment (2014, Playing with the Devil and 2013, Amber Oud). When you look at what and how Kilian is creating around his perfumes, the experience and luxury, the packaging, the communication, there’s no other brand like it. Kilian is also so involved, and each of his sales people knows him or has met him personally.

He’ll go in person to the counter to hear what people are saying, then come and tell me what’s happening, so there is no one in between him and the people that love and wear his fragrances.”

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when YOU were working at IFF, you had just come up from your HOME country, Mexico. When did you know you wanted to become a perfumer?

“Let me just say that perfumery was, and is, a calling for me. I decided I wanted to be a perfumer at the age of 13...and I am 47 now...you do the math!”

T h e fa s h i o n d e s i g n e r , Tom Ford, is known for his rejuvenation of the houses of YSL and Gucci. He can also be credited for being on the forefront of re-invigorating the luxury fragrance market with the introduction of Black Orchid in 2006.

Today, Mr. Ford has 13 signature fragrances, and 22 in the Private Blend Collection. Two of his most recent launches have garnered FIFI Awards in the US: Velvet Orchid and Mandarino D’Amalfi. Although Mr. Ford was not able to respond to any questions for this article, it is known that he retains creative control, sitting in on smelling sessions with the various perfumers, and the lead Estee Lauder Executive V.P., Karyn Khoury. Tom Ford beauty fragrances can be found in select retail partners in most countries around the globe. Although the brand does not often mention the perfumers behind the creation of his perfumes, he often collaborates with perfumers from the giant fragrance supply house, Givaudan, where perfumers such as Calice Becker and perfumer, Rodrigo Flores Roux are employed.

Rodrigo is one of the industry darlings who I met when we both worked at International Flavors and Fragrances, and developed Neroli Portofino, one of my favorites from Mr. Ford. Even though Rodrigo could not answer questions specifically related to his creations, he shared a little about himself for Fashion 4 Development’s ModaVIE magazine.

You have such a rich and interesting background.

By education, you have a nursing degree as well as a degree in botany. But you became a perfumer.

What makes you tick? What inspires you?

“Art in general, but in particular, Michelangelo, Bernini, Rembrandt, Cezanne, Kahlo, Kandisnky, Bronzino. I also love plants and flowers, and try to infuse my perfumes with my deep, inspired love of my country, Mexico: color, flavor, texture, crafts, history, and biological richness. Mexico is an unfathomable source of inspiration.”

What was the first fragrance you wore?

“First fragrance I wore? There are several answers to this. My mother used to dab both my brother’s and my head with a bit of Vent Vert by Balmain. Alas, the old, very green galbanum one...and as my first fragrance of choice as a teenager…the sadly discontinued Eau Libre

by YSL – almost nobody remembers it. After that, Choc de Cardin, eau d’Orange Verte, Armani pour Homme, Eau Fraiche de Jean Couturier, Eau de Courreges, eau de Guerlain...a lot of “eaux”, some of them gone. I also dared into a Jicky de Guerlain moment!”

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R o j a D o v e has gained huge recognition in high end department stores since he launched his fragrances in 2011. His fragrances have been said to have the most expensive ingredients used in perfumery, and his prices are indicative of that, with the Vetiver Extrait for $395 for 50 ml, up to $1,750 for 100 ml for his newest lush floral fragrance, A Kiss Goodnight. His collection consists of more than 40 fragrances, and sells in more than 60 stores in 18 countries. you learned your craft at Guerlain. Did you apprentice there under Jean Paul Guerlain? When did you decide to start your own company?

Which ones are your best sellers?

“A Goodnight Kiss has proven to be our biggest launch in history as it sold out of The Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie in Harrods before it hit the shelves – three times over! We literally couldn’t keep up with demand.

Our global best seller is our classic ‘Aoud’ fragrance which was Harrods’ biggest ever perfume launch.”

“I trained underneath Jean Paul Guerlain and was with the brand for just shy of 20 years. After the loss of my mother, I came to realize that there was nothing to carry on the family name and having consistently made perfumes for others, I decided it was time to create my own brand – Roja Parfums, which launched in July 2011.”

It is not a surprise to me that A Goodnight Kiss is one of his biggest launches in history. After all, the inspiration behind this scent is an homage to his beloved mother, when she used to bend down to kiss him good night!

how many stores in the world ARE Roja Dove fragrances sold?

“Roja Parfums are in over fifteen countries across the globe with various accounts in department stores and perfume boutiques alike. We are thrilled to be launching our second stand-alone boutique (first was in Oman) in London’s Burlington Arcade, this fall.”

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Sylvia Weinstock, the Queen of Cakes BY nanci ross-weaver Photography by JOHN LABBE 106

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SYLVIA WEINSTOCK. Photography by Carol Chan

The Queen of Cakes Sylvia Weinstock is cake royalty, so it was only befitting that it be on hand for F4D’s 5th Annual First Ladies Luncheon. Known around the world as the “Queen of Cakes”, Weinstock is a couturier of sometimes astounding, and always magnificent, cake artistry. Her one-ofa-kind confections have been created for A-listers of many countries, and every category, gracing the celebrations of Hollywood celebrities, international socialites, politicians and heads of state. But as Weinstock herself says “all my clients are stars,” and her personal service and warmth has kept her at many family events, for many generations.

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But baking was not Weinstock’s first passion. Armed with a master’s degree in psychology, she taught kindergarten in the suburbs of New York while raising her three daughters, with her lawyer-husband, Benjamin. Baking began as a hobby when the family went on winter ski weekends to Hunter Mountain – not a skier herself, she baked enough for both her family and small restaurants on the mountain, where her talent was spotted by chefs who also vacationed in the area. That led to an apprenticeship in New York City and soon after, she began to create the handmade, edible, sugar flowers, which became her signature. “At that time,” says Weinstock, “cakes were either beautiful, or delicious. I was determined to do a fresh, moist, flavorful cake, that is also a work of art.”

Surviving breast cancer at the age of 50, she decided her hobby would become her life’s work, and she and her husband started Sylvia Weinstock Cakes in the same Tribeca building which houses the studio to this day. Her secret of success is simple: there are no shortcuts. Thirty-five years later, Weinstock shows no signs of slowing down and is now licensing Sylvia Weinstock Cakes and cake accessories around the world. She also devotes a substantial amount of her free time, bolstering the spirits of others afflicted with breast cancer, and is a contributor to organizations supporting breast cancer research. Weinstock is most proud of her recipe for a successful marriage, as she and Ben celebrated their 65th wedding anniversary this past February.

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Photography by JOHN LABBE

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HUMAN BEAUTY

FADIL BERISHA BE H I N D T H E L E N S

Fashion Photographer, Fadil Berisha has produced some of the most intriguing and enchanting portraits of human beauty in all its shapes and aspects. A worshiper of elegance and perfection, he manages to bring forth these traits in the subjects he photographs, whether in his New York studio or from various parts of the world. Fadil shoots masterfully in black and white or color, always capturing dramatic displays of emotion, passion and affection that beautifully illustrate life. His photographic subjects, whether models, celebrities, key world players or everyday people, are enhanced and escalated to new levels of vitality, power and adoration.

Fadil’s work has been featured in American and International Vogue, Elle, Glamour, Marie Claire, Harpers Bazaar, Seventeen and other beauty magazines. He is the photographer of choice for many celebrities; most notably Sharon Stone, Halle Berry, Kris Jenner, Joan Collins, Tony Dovolani, Sherri Hill, Guo Pei, Yue-Sai Kan, Roger Federer, Eliza Dushku, Snoop Dogg, Bill Clinton, Donald Trump, Michael Buble (for the Rolex Campaign), and Anoushka Shankar, among many noteworthy others. He also serves as the official photographer of Miss Universe and Miss USA. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City, Fadil has a deep commitment to philanthropy, having contributed to refugees, artists and various charities, including Gabrielle’s Angel Foundation, Rita Hayworth Alzheimer’s association, PETA, and The Brent Shapiro Foundation.

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HAUTE COUTURE

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TIME 4 ACTION Evie Evangelou speaks at the roundtable during the Summit of Conscience for the Climate in Paris, July 2015.

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We live in an age of consumerism.

We always want more and we always want it for less.

BY Sam Munsha Ni

Today, we tend to accept our surroundings because we are often too busy cocooned within our own little worlds. We tend not to question.

When we do question, it’s usually about something that relates directly to our immediate social environment. When we look at market research, it simply puts us in the past and we use that statistic to define our future.

We never call ourselves mediocre. Who would want to do that?

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the business of fashion and beauty that make a donation to a charitable organization and have a good public relations team behind them to make sure they receive the notoriety that their dollar brings. Reference their standards of production and their goal towards conservation, sustainability in the supply chain process or the manufacturing process and they fail miserably.

Their goal at the end of the day is to sustain only to a standard that Wall Street has laid out for them – profitability!!

It’s only when we challenge ourselves that we can look for a change or a positive direction towards a change. Our solutions are defined by awareness and a propensity to change. The established parameters are called tradition.

Tradition is the answer to negate change.

Every one of us has inherited some ignorance.

If we accept that and don’t question it, our environment has a small window to being in complete ruin. We accept tradition because we don’t need to think. We grow every day in terms of consumerism and technology, sometimes hand in hand and accept that as an acceptable change because we are weak to challenge the status quo and happy to see some progress.

Albeit a very selfish progress at the cost of our future societies, our greed and selfishness are paramount to our understanding and education.

The aim of The Mayor of Madison is simple – every company that has a valuation of a billion dollars or more needs to have ten percent of their entire revenue stream coming from sustainable practices and conservation.

Corporate responsibility has no real definition.

It has no real measurement. It’s as nebulous as the stars. There is neither standardization nor control.

We choose our leadership with scrutiny, sometimes we invest in companies with that same scrutiny. But at the end of the day, that decision again is selfish because it surrounds what we want individually. We need to question that now and make a collective effort to ensure that the leadership in our environ as well as the leadership with companies we invest in or buy goods and services from, are engineered towards a common goal, our future and the future of the generation to come.

This is the creation of a self-sustaining and perpetuating model that will grow and last for generations to come. The chaos will now fade away and we will start to see the discipline.

Because it starts with something manageable and affordable, the balance between restraint and abandon starts to become clear with every initiative and memorandum. Collectively, we can make a difference - revisit that abandon and ask people to take action: Commit that 10% over 5 years and you’ll be astounded at who we’ve become.

How do we measure sustainability? This should be a direct proportion of an organization’s revenue. Today, we have large companies in

Everything Changes but Nothing is Lost

-

Mayor of Madison -

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0 zero

mothers die The mum’s $1 Smartphone

BY Coumba Toure

Along with myself, many VIPs have taken to promoting the Mum’s phone, including Mrs. Ban, the UNAIDS Executive Director Michel Sidibé, First Ladies of Zambia and Gabon, Miss Universe 2013, Gabriela Isle and Mrs. Cherie Blaire.

One woman dies per minute in childbirth around the world. Almost half of these deaths occur in Sub-Saharan Africa. Despite the progress made in many countries increasing the availability of maternal healthcare, the majority of women across Africa remain without full access to this care.

The rapid drop in global child deaths in the last 20 years is one of the world’s most spectacular, and most hopeful, success stories. It shows what is possible with the right resources, programs and political will in place. But the story isn’t over yet. More needs to be done, especially in sub-Saharan Africa, to make sure this progress continues for children and mothers everywhere.

The World Health Organization (WHO) lists insufficient data, preventing ministries from implementing programs most effectively, and cost and other access issues that prevent women from using the available resources, as the most critical obstacles faced by countries to improving maternal health. The WHO also states that investing in maternal health is a political and social imperative.

As a solution to achieve this, Advanced Development for Africa and its partners, The Peoples’ Vision and F4D, present a first of its kind maternal health mobile Internet solution comprising the Mum’s Maternal Network and Mum’s $1 Smartphone.

Placing a smartphone in the hands of all at-risk mothers at a cost of one dollar changes everything, especially when the smartphone is linked to local health services, ministries of health and incorporates a local mobile App based support network with integrated value added services connected to a global social business network with social entrepreneurs eager to sponsor multiple cost items of at-risk mothers.

http://mums.bb/

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Mums pre-announcement during F4D’s First Ladies Luncheon 2014

This solution includes: a) A $1 Smartphone

that for the first time can put affordable mobile Internet into the hands of every at- risk mother on the planet b) A Maternal Network

incorporating interaction capabilities with local health clinics, maternal health services and government health institutions c) “Push” maternal health education,

free membership in a global community of personal, social and financial supporters d) Business opportunities

with solar power solutions with which to develop sustainable income streams and develop economic self-sufficiency and self-esteem e) Cutting edge local & global mobile payments

with which to receive financial support and personally participating in local and global commerce f) Design and launch

of the Mum’s line of fashion during the next F4D 2015 event Please join us and give your support to achieve zero mothers and babies dying each year.

Together we can succeed.

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e m b r acing t h e

true cost o f fa s hi o n

BY LUCIE SIEGLE Lucy Siegle is a journalist and writer based in the United Kingdom. Along with her friend, Livia Firth, she is co-executive producer of The True Cost, directed by Andrew Morgan.

A decade ago, I began to question our collective consumption of fashion.

Why? Photography by Will Whipple

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I was hearing from many women readers that they felt they were losing their style mojo. I felt similarly. Despite investing a big portion of my salary in high street stores, every time I opened my closet doors, I was confronted with a mess: there was plenty of volume but not much coherence. For example, I owned 19 pairs of jeans in different denim weights and washes. I owned multiples of every other fashion staple, yet I too found it hard to put together an outfit. I had been seduced by volume consumption of fast fashion, and was in a desperate scramble to Hoover up every micro trend, whether or not it suited me.

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i began to unpack

my shopping habits,

and as I DID so, the whole

f ash i o n

l an d sca p e un r av e l e d

before my eyes.

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I began to unpack my own shopping habits, and as I did so, the whole fashion landscape unraveled before my eyes.

An old adage tells journalists to follow the money, in order to find the story. Environmental journalists like myself tend to follow the oil. This time, I followed the money, the oil, the water and the slave labor. I uncovered quite a story that I described in my first book, To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? (Fourth Estate 2011). On one hand, the consumer was living the dream: we possessed more clothes than at any other time in history and thanks to deflation in clothing prices, they were proportionally cheaper, too (never have we had so many pieces for such a small portion of our salaries).

Serendipity brought me together with a number of inspirational women who were also looking at these issues. In London, I met Livia Firth, who was to become a major ally in unraveling the fashion industry. I was struck by her stance: she had correctly come to the conclusion that despite the fact that fashion is a full spectrum industry, spanning the cotton fields to the runways of international brands, it was often written off as frivolous, ignoring the fact that when you add together all the processes in a supply chain to make clothing, the fashion industry is the second largest pollution source on earth (according to the Nordic council of sustainable fashion).

From the cotton fields to the refineries that crack the oil for synthetics, to the huge factories that scour, skin, dye and finish materials, fashion’s impact is huge and global.

We each rack up 1.5 tons of CO2 emissions every year – all for our clothes.

The numbers are enormous. By my reckoning, there are over 80 billion new garments produced each year, with the production of these garments predicated on millions who work in the supply chain – some 40 million garment workers in Bangladesh (one of the engines of fast fashion production) alone. The more I interrogated the true cost of this seemingly miraculous consumer formula that gave us the cheapest, most trend-driven fashion offering ever, the more I uncovered a fractured, at times chaotic and wholly unsustainable supply chain. Both Livia and I were captivated by a quote

by Ali Hewson (the activist who is married to U2’s Bono, and set up the sustainable fashion brand, Edun), “We carry the stories of the people who make our clothes.”

We decided to uncover those stories and be eye witnesses to the way garments are actually made (not something that fashion journalists usually get to do, as their job is almost exclusively concerned with the ‘reveal’ that happens when a collection is

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launched). Through the Green Carpet Challenge that we founded in 2010, we were able to establish sustainable criteria, and work with designers to get ethical fashion onto some of the world’s biggest red carpet events. In 2012, we worked on Green Cut, working with designers including Tom Ford, Roksanda Ilincic, Stella McCartney and Jonathan Saunders, who produced sustainable pieces inspired by classic films from the archive of the British Film Institute.

As I dug deeper, I uncovered critical points in the supply chain that made being a modern day garment worker extremely dangerous. While workers in the global garment industry are not packing live ammunition or clearing land mines, statistically, working in the fast fashion chain, particularly in the assembly phase known as Cut, Make and Trim, makes you one of the most vulnerable workers on the planet.

On 24th April, 2013, this fact was brought into sharp and alarming view, when the Rana Plaza complex in Savar, on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, collapsed like a house of cards. Over 1100 people, mainly young female garment workers, were crushed to death near their sewing machines; thousands were injured and hundreds of children were left orphaned. This was fashion’s darkest day and the planet’s 24hour news crews descended around the crater that was once a factory, producing for many well-known Western brands to try and make sense of what happened. For the first time, the mainstream media interviewed and listened to the young women who make most of our clothes. Why did we listen this time? Because they gave their testimonies beneath six feet of rubble.

Andrew Morgan, a film director based in L.A., was watching, too. He saw the story of Rana Plaza on the front of the New York Times, and a picture of two small boys desperately searching for their mother who had been working in Rana Plaza tugged at his heart strings. Two of his sons were the same age as these two small boys, who were never to see their mother again. Like me, Morgan had no background in the fashion industry but felt compelled to find out more about what happened on our watch at Rana Plaza.

He spent two years travelling through 30 countries, unraveling the complex, often chaotic and frankly disturbing supply chain, and filming to make the feature length documentary, The True Cost. We spoke often, and he interviewed me a number of times. On each occasion, I was impressed by his commitment to making some sense of how volume, deflation and greed were loading risk on the people in the supply chain – those who were the poorest and most vulnerable.

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There is no legal definition of

ethical fashion

and I don’t see this as an issue; there is no legal definition of

luxury or fast fashion either.

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His clear sighted, sharp and engaging film (with Livia Firth, I am an executive producer) exposes the unsustainable scrum of today’s fashion culture. I implore you to watch it. When you do, you will follow the supply chain through the people and their real stories. Morgan sees the industry through many eyes, including Stella McCartney’s and the great ecological activist, Vandana Shiva. But for me, it is when he follows Shima, a young Bangladeshi garment worker, separated from her daughter and a victim of the day-to-day brutality of the fast fashion regime, where the pathos becomes nearly unbearable. Behind this charismatic, young woman’s amazing smile and bravado, sits real fear and trauma.

But there are some tenets or principles: this is fashion that minimizes the environmental impact of our rapacious consumption of fashion, but maximizes the opportunities of the hands behind the clothes – the millions who work in the fashion supply chain.

It should be more honest fashion. So, where mainstream fashion has become an ongoing operation to distance us (the consumer) from the maker, ethical fashion makes the supply chain visible; the objective: that we might never suffer another Rana Plaza disaster again. As the 19th century campaigner for social justice, Louis Brandeis once put it, “Sunlight is said to be the best of disinfectants; electric light, the most efficient policeman.”

A good film reaches people like nothing else. Morgan’s documentary, The True Cost, has caused the type of ripples across nations and networks that lead to a wave of change. After a decade working on this subject in this industry, that fills me with immense hope. It is a film that connects the dots. It shows the immense sprawling supply chain and how exploitation leads to structural poverty.

Overall, to shift our wardrobes, we need to be braver. Ecologists may often be badly dressed (such as trousers that zip into shorts, for example), but we should follow their example. They know that in nature, if you destroy diversity and use the space to plant one crop, you’re asking for trouble. Conversely, biodiversity in lots of species of flora and fauna breeds resilience. I see our fashion landscape in the same way.

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Instead of monolithic brands and retailers calling all the shots, we need to spread our style pounds around a little, patronizing smaller brands and individual designers.

This alternative brand of fashion hasn’t stood still. It has transitioned from a trend to a movement and continues to collect momentum.

More hope has come to me through my Green Carpet Challenge work, with designers of huge talent and range. They are by implication, innovators, so ‘sustainable challenges’ are seen less as barriers and more as intricate design projects that can be unlocked. We need designers of this caliber who recognize that rather than diffusion ranges of designer products in cheaper fabrics, we need diffusion ethics.

I revisited Bangladesh recently, travelling the North from Dhaka to the rural region of Thanapara, and followed part of the supply chain for a forthcoming collection for Peopletree.com, an ethical brand featured in The True Cost as a counterpoint to fast fashion. The collection boasted a world first: at the Swallows production facility, the first organic cotton woven on handlooms (by women, who are not ordinarily given this higher paid job). In the sewing room, I met Sabina, a young woman with two growing girls and everything to live for. She almost didn’t make it. Two years ago she spent ten hours trapped under a table in Rana Plaza, convinced she’d never see her daughters again as her friends around her died. Now, she works in the Swallows ethical fashion facility at Rana Plaza, living at home, providing for her girls. She has made the leap from an assembly worker, toiling long hours in one of the world’s most lethal sweatshops, to a fully-fledged tailor who now knows how to make a whole garment, and is paid accordingly. That, in a nutshell, is why I have become a devotee of ethical fashion.

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AD

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the 2015

sustainability han d b ag awa r d

T he 9th Annu al Independent Ha ndba g Designer Awa rds, th e on l y h a nd b a g co mpe t it io n o f its k ind in the world, was held in New Yor k C i t y o n J une 1 7 th at the SVA T heatre.

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Columbian designer Anna Maria Plata’s Múcura bag won the 2015 Sustainability Handbag Award and finds its inspiration in a clay object called múcura, which is the Spanish word for a type of clay canteen used by native tribes originally to carry water to and from their village. It has since taken on a greater meaning. It is also symbol for femininity and carries great symbolic power. The bag itself is designed in the shape of a wide bottom which narrows at the top.

I draw inspiration from the geometric elements and colors of the Molas, which are handmade patterned fabrics, hand stitched by the women of the Kuna tribe that we feature in our bags. I get inspired by colorful cities like Cartagena and New Orleans, charming colonial towns like Villa de Leyva, everyday objects, a piece of furniture, architectural details that catch my attention, and I love to play with out of the box color combinations.

Each of our bags is a unique piece, and no two are alike. The Molas are handmade by each woman, capturing their imagination and traditional elements from their culture into the fabrics.

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league of

g

entlemen

Chris Collins Co-Founder, League of Gentlemen 128

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Annually, League of Gentlemen profiles the contributions of

extraordinary men an d t h e i r philan t h r o pic e ff o rt s .

This year, we highlight the vital work of Water.org, co-founded by Gary White and Academy Award winning actor, Matt Damon to address the widespread water and sanitation issues impacting many nations around the globe, which in the developing world is far too big for charity alone. Regardless, the efforts of Water.org are farreaching and transformative and have touched the lives of countless people. We salute them for their commitment to this critical and noble cause.

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WATER . OR G Water.org is driving the water sector for new solutions, new financing models, greater transparency, and real partnerships to create lasting change. Their vision: safe water and the dignity of a toilet for all, in our lifetime.

Water.org is a nonprofit organization that has transformed hundreds of communities in Africa, South Asia, and Central America by providing access to safe water and sanitation.

Water.org traces its roots back to the founding of WaterPartners International in 1990.

In July 2009, WaterPartners merged with H2O Africa, resulting in the launch of Water. org. Water.org works with local partners to deliver innovative solutions for long-term success. Its microfinance-based WaterCredit Initiative is pioneering sustainable giving in the sector. Of their many initiatives, among them is one that aims to target women, specifically.

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Time 4 action Empowered Women Will Change the World

hours for nightfall, just to have privacy. This impacts health and puts their safety at risk. About half of all girls worldwide attend schools without toilets. The lack of privacy causes many girls to drop out when they reach puberty.

In many countries, women are responsible for finding and fetching water for their families. All the water they need for drinking, washing, cooking, cleaning. They walk miles, carry heavy burdens, wait for hours and pay exorbitant prices. The work is back-breaking and all-consuming. Often the water is contaminated, even deadly. In these instances, they face an impossible choice – certain death without water or possible death from illness.

The dual aspects of the water crisis – lack of water and of sanitation – lock women in a cycle of poverty. They cannot attend school; they cannot earn an income.

Providing Hope for Generations Ahead

Once they are old enough, girls join this effort. They spend countless hours trying to provide this basic life necessity.

Around the world, women are coming together to address their own needs for water and sanitation. Their strength and courage transforms communities. With the support of Water.org and its local partners, women organize their communities to support a well and take out small loans for household water connections and toilets. They support one another, share responsibility.

These efforts make an impact, taking us one step closer to ending the global water crisis.

Women also struggle most from the lack of adequate sanitation, the often unspoken part of the water and sanitation crisis. The sanitation crisis for women can be summed up in one word: ‘dignity.’ Around the world, fewer than one person in three has access to a toilet. In many countries, it is not acceptable for a woman to relieve herself during the day. They wait

Th e R e s ult s Education

Health

Increased girls’ school attendance, level of education and literacy rates, as they no longer need to miss school to secure water for their families and have adequate and separate sanitation facilities.

Improved health for women and girls who no longer have to delay defecation and urination.

Reduced child and maternal mortality as a result of access to safe water, sanitation facilities and improved hygiene during child birth.

Socio-economic Opportunity Increased dignity and reduced psychological stress for girls and women particularly when symptoms associated with menstruation, pregnancy and childbirth can be managed discreetly.

Increased recognition of women as having skills and knowledge outside the scope of their traditional roles.

Strengthened voice for women in their families and communities to negotiate their own needs.

Reduced physical injury from constant lifting and carrying heavy loads of water.

New opportunities for women’s employment as well as greater autonomy and independence.

Reduced risk of rape, sexual assault, and increased safety as women and girls do not have to go to remote and dangerous places to defecate or to fetch water during the night.

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i m p o rta n t fa c ts The water crisis is the #1 global risk based on impact to society (as a measure of devastation), and the #8 global risk based on likelihood (likelihood of occurring within 10 years) as announced by the World Economic Forum, January 2015.

750 million people around the world lack access to safe water; approximately one in nine people.

More than twice the population of the United States lives without access to safe water.

Iinadequate drinking water, sanitation, and hand hygiene causes diarrhea and kills an estimated 842,000 people every year globally, or approximately 2,300 people per day.

82% of those who lack access to improved water live in rural areas, while just 18% live in urban areas.

Courtesy of Water.org

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the f4D team

FIRST LADIES LIAISON

MERCEDES ALAGNA SENIOR ADVISOR, SOURCING & INNOVATION

JEANINE BALLONE

PRODUCER AND SENIOR ADVISOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS

KELLY DARR

the

CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND BRAND STRATEGIST

KATHY RUIZ

SENIOR MEDIA ADVISOR

RIDA KHAN

GENERAL CONSUL

NADINE NAJJAR

team

EVENT & FASHION SHOW PRODUCER

ELEONORA QUIZMOLLI

SENIOR VIDEOGRAPHER/EDITOR

TERRENCE ROMNEY FRAGRANCE ADVISOR

RUTH SUTCLIFFE

PUBLIC RELATIONS

ALICE BRACCINI-VIOLETTA GROUP EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT

YANA ILYAICH

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special thanks

S

pecial

T

hanks

TO OUR PARTNERS & SPONSORS ACCESSORIES COUNCIL AEDES DE VENUSTAS ADVANCED DEVELOPMENT FOR AFRICA AIDS LIFE CHINA BEAUTY CHARITY FUND CHOPARD COTY DR RITA RAKUS DUGGAL VISUAL SOLUTIONS ECO AGE ENVIRONMENTAL MEDIA ASSOCIATION EVERY WOMAN EVERY CHILD FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL FIRMENICH GENNY

GIVAUDAN GLAMSQUAD GLOBAL PARTNERSHIP FORUM GREEN CARPET CHALLENGE HUEB INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES JOSIE MARAN SKINCARE LAVAZZA LIFESTYLR TRIMCO MAJOR MODELS MANE USA MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN OAFLA THE PIERRE & TAJ HOTELS & PROPERTIES

PRIVE BY LAURENT D RESERVA ROBERTET RUTH SUTCLIFFE CONSULTING LLC SKIN INC ST REGIS HOTEL SUSTAINIA SYMRISE UNILEVER VALUE RETAIL VOGUE ITALIA WOMEN 4 EMPOWERMENT

ZHU LEI DEBBIE LEVIN HAO LIPING ZHOU LISHENG MARY LOU LUTHER VALENTINO LONGO FREDERIC MALLE VERA MANOUKIAN MARGARITA MARTINEZ BOB MAUL HE MEI MARK MINEVICH TIFFANY MITCHELL SAM MUNSHANI SONIA NDIMBIRA PATRICIA OPPENHEIMER LAVELLE OLEXA MARIA PINEDA ENRICO PEDICO GAO QIAN WEI QIONG ERIK RASMUSSEN FE REMEDIOS TANZILA RABB LEE RIZZUTO NANCI ROSS WEAVER

MARY SACK ANNEMARIE SCICHILI MAGDALENA SCHUSTER RALF SCHWIEGER CASSANDRA SEIDENFELD KATIA SHERMAN MICHEL SIDIBE KOULA SOPHIANOU KEN STOLLS ZEHRA SUN RUTH SUTCLIFFE ALEXANDRA TAYLOR COUMBA TOURE VIVIAN VAN DIJK QI WEI SYLVIA WEINSTOCK ALICE WEN HU XIAOCONG LI XIAOJUAN LIU XINYING HELEN YARMAK WANG YIZHOU ZHOU YUAN GUAN YUXIANG LONG ZHONGWEI

SPECIAL INDIVIDUALS AJMAL REBECCA AFFOLDER Danielle DANIELLE ACCETTOLA JEFFREY & LAURA ANSELMI NIKISHA ALCINDOR JEANINE BALLONE MARIANGELA BAVICCHI LERNER FADIL BERISHA TINA BILLE DESIREE BOLLIER SILVA BONACITO JILL BUCHANAN NAILA CHOWDHURY CHRIS COLLINS THEO COSMORA LIZA DONNELLY MIN FAN KAREN GIBERSON MARU GRIECO MARGARET HAYES MIKE HEARN CINDY CHEN HARRIS COLE HARRIS FAIZUN KAMAL GERY KESZLER HAROLD KODA

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I AM The WAY FORWARD

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