Food review | STEPHANIE BROOKES
Chicken Wings
Grilled lamb skewers
Makanek
to be seen, especially when it came down to the service. Our waiter took great pleasure in introducing each small dish. The evening began with a mixture of Mezza, notably the Moutabbal (charred aubergine, lemon juice and sesame paste, bejewelled with pomegranate seeds) and the silkiest, tahini-rich, Hommos. The aromatic addition of Tabbouleh full of parsley, fresh mint and bulgur, with juicy, ripe tomatoes was almost too much for its small bowl. At this point, I might add, greedy hands were already rabidly crisscrossing the table, eager to start filling plates. We were also presented with freshly-chopped vegetables and pickles ready for dipping. The cold dishes and salads felt like a healthy, albeit slightly filling, start to proceedings. There was not much time to recuperate before a large platter of hot starters arrived at the table. A generous plate of Sojok (sausages in lemon) was a meaty and highly moreish dish and a definite highlight of the meal. Another favourite was the marinated Chicken Wings with fried coriander: soft, fleshy and moist from the rich garlic sauce. What I find exciting about this kind of dining is the variety and sheer abundance of mixed hot and cold dishes, and the fun food experimentation that ensues – everything works together perfectly. We were then presented with a dish called Ouzzi, a rather sallow looking, slow-cooked lamb
leg, which whilst not being the prettiest of dishes, tasted divine: the meat was tender, moist and delicately spiced. We felt its presentation could be improved, but certainly could not fault the flavour. The crown jewel was the much larger Mixed Grill plate. The well-charred lamb fillets, smoky, beautifully tender and layered with spiced flatbread, was the perfect final dish. So there you have it: a feast of fresh Lebanese cuisine, served with charm and generosity. It’s unlikely any diner will ever leave this restaurant with the feeling of “I should have eaten more” – more likely they will feel a second visit is a must. essence INFO
Abd El Wahab 1 Pont Street, Belgravia, London SW1X 9EJ Websites: ghiaholding.com and www.stephaniebrookes.com Telephone: 020 7235 0005
Abd El Wahab, Belgravia
APRIL 2018 | essence-magazine.co.uk 39