Wool trade lr

WOOL TRADE Speciality Fibres & Yarns

Global outlook European spinners choose innovation Track the authenticity of your wool Campaign for Wool celebrates 5th anniversary S端dwolle Group challenge to think differently Mohair sparkles in Shanghai Textile machinery companies forced to upgrade Interwoollabs - high standards in testing accuracy New grading system for British wool

GLOBAL WOOL TRADE DIRECTORY 2014-15

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL

WTI

FROM THE EDITOR

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

American Sheep Association Australian Wool Testing Authority British Wool Marketing Board Campaign for Wool Canadian Wool Co-Operative

Dear Reader Welcome to the 2014 issue of WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL.

Cape Wools South Africa

Environmental sustainability is a main issue grabbing the

China Wool Textile Association

attention of the industry and you will find that many articles

International Wool Textile Organisation

in this issue echo this focus as companies invest in more

Mohair South Africa

environmentally friendly processing and manufacturing.

Nanjing Wool Market

As the industry takes environmental issues head-on we provide

New Zealand Wool Testing Authority

articles about innovation in environmentally friendly wool

SGS Wool Testing Authority

processing, yarn production, and textile machinery, as well as

Uruguayan Wool Secretariat

new wool measuring and tracing technology.

Wool Testing Authority Europe Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa ART & DESIGN Ely Torres Polyprint Pty Ltd Melbourne Australia EDITOR Victor Chesky

We also bring you opinions and views from industry leaders on many aspects of the wool industry - from farm gate to retail.

We profile Campaign for Wool as it celebrates its 5th anniversary and ‘brings a breath of fresh air’ to wool promotion around the world. In addition, as IWTO reaches out beyond the consumer to include policy makers, regulators, and interest groups, we follow its story as it makes its case for a more open and transparent industry.

Please read the reports from main wool producing countries, mohair production and wool in bedding and more.

PUBLISHED BY

This issue also provides a range of profile articles on wool and

International Trade Publications

wooltop exporters, yarn manufacturers, logistic support services,

PO Box 11, Caulfield South

and wool testing.

Melbourne, Victoria 3162 AUSTRALIA Tel. 61 3 9533 0627 E mail info@woolnews.net Web www.woolnews.net Front cover photo:

We thank the many contributors that have helped us to provide such a diverse read. We invite you to keep this magazine, refer back to it for contacts and information over the coming year.

We hope that it will assist you to access the best fibre, for your needs, from across the globe, and from the comfort of your own office.

Image from Campaign for Wool’s 2014 promotion WOOL COLLECTION: Interiors.

Victor Chesky

Photography by Chris Everard.

Editor WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 1

A success story spinning more than years

50

The Wool ComfortMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to develop and market next-toskin wool garments which are scientifically proven to offer a more comfortable wearer experience.

The Wool HandleMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to measure key garment handle attributes which means better next-to-skin wool knitwear products.

IN THIS ISSUE

CONTENTS 28 67 CHILE

Punta tops from Standard Wool 68 ARGENTINA

Increase in finer micron range 70 JAPAN

Important apparel market for wool

116 INDUSTRY HIGHLIGHTS 10 Global wool outlook 12 Turkey and China textiles 14 Casualization in consumer wear affects demand 22 Can sheep save the planet?

26 Taking the guess work out of measuring next-to-skin wool

144 Wool in Bedding

Eco-friendly wool increased demand from bedding manufacturers 147 Textile Machinery

Latest technology from NSC, Tecomeccanica and Sant Andrea Novara 156 Wool Testing

Interwoollabs accreditation for the exceptional

OFDA - accuracy in fibre measurement

34 Schoeller EXP4.0 eco-friendly alternative

Latest in wool certification from AWTA, NZWTA, WTAE, WTBSA

SPECIAL REPORTS

SGS - global independent wool testing

28 Campaign for Wool celebrates 5th anniversary 32 IWTO 360째

36

Woolen Yarn S체dwolle Group European spinners choose innovation

116 Mohair

South African Mohair industry driving full steam ahead 138 Wool Logistics

Logistics headaches for importers

72 NEW ZEALAND

Offering the best in NZ wool 87 CANADA

Canada offers additional source for quality wool 88 CHINA

China Wool Textile Industry navigating the challenges

8 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

BWMB introduces Platinum Label

127 INDIA

Increased demand for tops from India 132 GERMANY

Offering the best in European wool 140 HUNGARY

Hungarian wool - increasing interest from Europe 142 SPAIN

Lanas Cuesta - expanding supply and delivery

100 AUSTRALIA

Scoured wool - win-win solution for topmakers

174 URUGUAY

Wool growers move to finer microns

46 USA

ASI 150th Anniversary

USA Animal Care & Welfare

109 SOUTH AFRICA

Offering a wide range of Microns 120 TURKEY

Wool exporters focus on Europe 123 ITALY

Italian agents offer link to European textile market

99 SWITZERLAND

Padbrook London opens office in Switzerland

COUNTRIES REPORTS

49 UK

New grading system for UK Wool

127

38

We’ve done our best work...

Now weave your magic

For more information Tel: +61 8 82094400 Email: michell@michell.com.au

www.michell.com

INDUSTRY

GLOBAL WOOL OUTLOOK Wool production is expected to be flat in 2014/15. This is partly due to poor seasonal conditions in Australia where farmers continue to reduce sheep stock; in New Zealand farmers are moving away from wool production into diary although that has been slowing; and in China farmers are moving to indigenous sheep breeds and away from finer wool sheep.

W

orld wool production in Australia, New Zealand, China and India, Argentina, UK, USA and Brazil was down in 2013/14. Production was up in South Africa, Uruguay and Mongolia. The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee expects production for 2014/15 to be 330 million kilos greasy, down 2.9% from 2013/14.

New Zealand 2013-14 total wool production decreased 1.1 % to 125 mil kg clean from 2012-13 year. According to NZ Beef and Lamb since 2009-10 year, sheep numbers have decreased to 30.9 and shorn wool productivity has decreased to 4.65 kg per head. These factors, coupled with a smaller lamb crop have contributed to the decrease in total wool production in 2013-14. But wool production for 201415 is expected to increase slightly (+0.8%) to 125 mil kg clean.

In South America wool production stands at 120.5 mil kg greasy. Argentina with 10.7 mil sheep producing 53 mil kg greasy, Uruguay with 8.7 mil sheep producing 35 mil kg, Peru 9.3 mil sheep producing 10.9 mil kg, Brazil with 3.9 mil sheep and 10.5 mil kg, Chile with 3.9 producing 7.1 mil 10 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

kg mil kg and Bolivia with 9 mill sheep mostly from small farmlets producing 4 mil kg.

There was also a considerable increase in the production of superfine wool and a reduction in medium merino wool. In Australia superfine wool (18.5 micron and finer) increased 26.2%, just under 60mkg.The world increase in superfine wool was up 6.1%, at approximately 70mkg. Farmers around the world continue their shift to sheep for meat and this has put sheep for wool numbers under pressure.

Most major wool processing countries have shown a slight increase in wool imports. China has shown the largest increase of 9% importing over 400mkg of greasy wool.

Italy was up 6% and the Czech Republic was up 12%.

Other countries represented a joint 9% increase. On the negative side India imported 3% less wool than last year and Germany less 6%.

Interior textiles do considerably better than apparel. It is expected that in 2015 apparel wool garment production will continue to decline while interior textile wool production will rise.

INDUSTRY

WORLD WOOL PRICES ON AVERAGE FROM APRIL 2013 - APRIL 2014 In US dollars Uruguay Corriedale was on average down by 10%. British MI was up 33%, NZ crossbred was up 24% and NZ fine crossbred was up 7%. South Africa 22um was down 14% in US dollars but up 3% in the local currency, South Africa MI was down 5% in US dollars but up 10% in SA Rand. In Australia 18um was down 5% in US dollars, but up 2% in local currency. Australia EMI was down 7 - 8% in US dollars but up 2.5% in local currency. IWTO wool textile business survey indicates that all sectors of the industry expect improvements for 2014/15. Stocks in most sectors are coming to a more manageable level after the high in 2013/14.

Better expectations by the industry are mostly due to better economic growth in the US and Europe. But the main issue will be how well the Chinese economy will perform in 2014/15. So far, indications from the China wool industry are a mixed bag. The Chinese government is introducing major reforms and if successful will increase the number of middle income earners, and this will in turn increase demand at retail level. It is estimated that the Chinese consumer has spent USD400 billion in 2014. And this is expected to increase by a further 10-12% in 2015.

World Wool Production

World Wool Production (mkg clean) mkg clean

2015f

Data shows the production of greasy wool (tonnes) in Central and Eastern European (CEE) countries as follows: Countries

1990

2013

Albania

2 900

3 300

Bosnia and Herzegovina Bulgaria Czechoslovakia/Czech Republ.

7 337

4 300 40

Lithuania

109

Macedonia

1 025

Montenegro

327

Poland

14 783

950

Romania

38 167

17 600

Serbia

2 445

Slovakia Slovenia

800 188 Source: FAOSTAT, 2012

numbers after a huge reduction. Romania is leading the way with over 9 million sheep, followed by Albania with over 1.8 million sheep, followed by Serbia and Bulgaria % change with around 1.4 million.

-2.9%

2014f

% change

241.4

-3.4%

234.3

China

169.0

168.0

-0.6%

167.6

-0.3%

New Zealand

126.3

125.0

-1.1%

126.0

+0.8%

India

37.4

36.8

-1.7%

37.3

+1.3%

Argentina

26.0

27.2

-4.8%

25.7

-5.7%

South Africa

29.8

30.4

+2.2%

30.4

0.0%

Uruguay

24.5

25.1

+2.7%

25.0

-0.6%

UK

23.4

21.0

-10.3%

22.4

+6.6%

Mongolia

10.9

13.0

+19.4%

13.7

+5.3%

USA

7.2

7.0

-3.6%

6.9

-0.8%

Brazil

8.1

7.4

-8.7%

7.4

Others

429

425

-1.0%

418

1,132.8

1,130.9

-0.2%

1,132.3

Russia is increasing its wool production. Since the beginning of 2000, annual wool production in Russia has increased from 40,000 tonnes to 55,000 tonnes, while the number of sheep now exceeds 22m, as well as more than 2m goats. In recent years the production of sheep and goats has significantly increased in central in Russia, in particular Yaroslavl, and even in the north, in Arkhangelsk. A growing middle class and a cold climate in Russia is considered a lucrative market for wool processing and wool product consumption. Other Eastern European countries are also building their sheep

310

Latvia

249.9

EASTERN EUROPE AND RUSSIA

6 555

154

Hungary

2013e

IWTO national committee reports, FAO and Poimena Analysis 2013 = 2012/13 for Australia, NZ, Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa, Brazil 23 April 2014

7 000

Estonia

mkg clean

Source: Note: Updated:

27 811

Croatia

Australia

Global

1 382

Sheep numbers in Hungary are estimated to be around 1.25 million. The export leaders are Romania, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia and recently Poland. Other countries in the region manage raw wool on a large scale to cover their own domestic needs.

Further data shows that the highest wool yield (more than 3kg per head) was recorded in Bulgaria, +0.1% Poland and Hungary. Slightly lower yields were recorded in the Baltic countries, Czech Republic, Romania and Slovakia (approx. 2kg per sheep).

0.0%

-1.6%

Wool yield in CEE countries has increased despite a decline in sheep numbers and this can be attributed to improved breeding structures as well as production management.

The decline in sheep numbers can be attributed to the removal of government subsidies following the political and economic upheavals of the preceding decades. This led to a reduction in competitiveness in production for export as did the increase in exports of natural fibres from plants.

Source: IWTO, AWI, DELTA ANIMAL PRODUCTION CONSULTANTS. All data correct at the time of printing.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 11

INDUSTRY

TURKISH TEXTILES The most important markets for Turkey in textiles and raw materials is: Russia (14,9%), Italy (9,7%), Germany (5,3%), followed by UK, USA and Romania.

CHINA DOMINATES TEXTILE OUTPUT

C

hina is, by a significant margin, the biggest textile exporter in the world, accounting for about US$274 billion worth of the total US$772 billion in exports around the world - that alone equals about 35.5% of market share.

China wool production in 2014 was 168 mkg clean. It is expected that production in 2015 will be 167.6mkg, down 0.3%.

AWI sources show that in the 12 months from March 2013 to February 2014, China’s wool woven garment exports totalled 56.1 million pieces, worth 1.97 billion US dollars, down 10% and 8%, respectively. While, wool knitwear exports totalled 115.2 million pieces, worth 1.9 billion US dollars, up 5% and 8% respectively from the same period from March 2012 to February 2013.

12 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

A

pparel exports from Turkey are led by Germany (22%), UK (14%), Spain (9%), France

(6.5%).

The Turkish fabric industry, which produces most fabrics for apparel, home textiles, upholstery and technical applications, has a welldeveloped structure, especially in production based on cotton, wool and man-made raw materials.

Turkey is also the third largest mohair producer in the world and has a strong wool industry.

The Turkish textile industry has a number of advantages. Its geographical proximity to main markets, particularity in Europe, and its qualified and educated labour force and reasonably new and modern machinery used in all sectors of its textile process. A further benefit is its liberal trade policies and free trade agreement with main countries in the region.

The fabric concentrated

mills are mainly in Istanbul, Bursa,

Adana, Denizli, Kahramanmaras, Izmir, Gaziantep,Tekirdag, Kayseri and Usak. Many of the integrated mills are located in Istanbul, Bursa, Kahramanmaras, Adana and Gaziantep.

Today, Turkish fabric manufacturers are aware of the increasing trend in international markets for healthier and more environment-friendly products, and have adapted themselves to these developments.

Many Turkish fabric manufacturers have ecological labels for their products including best known ecolabels such as Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Organic Exchange, and GOTS. The total value of fabrics exported in 2013 was about US$ 5.6 billion.

The main products exported in 2013 were knitted fabrics, woven synthetic fabrics, and woven cotton fabrics. The export values of knitted fabrics, woven synthetic fabrics, and woven cotton fabrics were about US$ 1.7 billion, US$ 1.3 billion and US$ 1 billion respectively.

INDUSTRY

WOOL INDUSTRY IN A UNIQUE POSITION TO MAKE A REAL DIFFERENCE There’s no doubt in my mind that the wool industry is entering its most exciting period in recent years. Wool producers understand that by supporting one another, we all become stronger, and by seeking out new initiatives, embracing new technology and sharing ways to promote wool, we can support not only our own businesses but the future of the industry as a whole.

C

onsumers are seeking natural products for their home and their clothes and whether they are motivated by the environment, longevity, health, quality or comfort, they are stating that they prefer natural instead of synthetic products as long as they perform. Initiatives like HRH The Prince of Wales’ Campaign for Wool are placing wool firmly back in the spotlight and I believe we can use these opportunities to bring other wool industry-related issues to the fore.

In addition to this powerful Campaign there are other potential forces that will be good for the wool industry.

During the IWTO annual congress in South Africa, I heard a talk by Allan Savory, the eminent biologist and environmentalist, who believes that the destruction and abandonment of land suitable for farming – also known as desertification – has had a direct impact not only on the wider environment and global warming, but also on the future of the farming industry as a whole. In the 1960s, Mr Savory declared he had made a significant breakthrough in understanding what was causing the degradation and desertification of the world’s grassland ecosystems.

His theory focused on the now widely held belief that all types of land used

By: Jo Dawson

for agriculture, even those which are considered as desert, require a constant supply and large number of feeding animals acting in tight herds and, importantly, their droppings, to support the fertilisation cycle which renders land productive and sustainable. The act of reintroducing livestock to land not only changes the ecological landscape, it would provide more food for humans and begin the process of restoring grasslands and, quite conceivably, reversing desertification and climate change.

I met with Mr Savory and heard him speak passionately about how desertification happens and how it can be reversed through methods of holistic farming. By reintroducing cloven-hoofed livestock, such as sheep, to land previously abandoned, the ground once again is turned over, the animals’ waste products re-enter the soil and fertilise it and what was once waste land can once again be used to plant crops and hold livestock.

Inspired by his work and witnessing land being transformed in Africa and other countries, where desertification is rife in many areas, I and other wool industry colleagues are keen to investigate the possibility of making this, common practice amongst wool producers around the world.

I believe that we are in a unique position to make a real difference and through careful planning, teamwork and creative thinking, we can make a positive contribution to the global environment and replenish the land rather than reduce natural resources like oil-based products are doing. The future of the wool industry is in our hands; holistic farming, a transparent and traceable wool supply chain, embracing technology and recycling and reusing wool are all ways in which we can help create a future-fit industry.

If you are interested in connecting with me on this issue, please email me at jhd@hdawson.com and to find out more about Allan Savory’s work, please visit www.savoryinstitute.com To listen to his TED talk, visit: www.ted.com/talks/allan_savory_how_to_green_the_world_s_deserts_and_reverse_climate_change

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 13

INDUSTRY

‘CASUALIZATION’ OF CONSUMER WEAR AFFECTS DEMAND FOR APPAREL WOOL

T

he Woolmark Company’s Market Intelligence has identified two major forces that affect the market for apparel wool products. One is the move to the wearing of more casual wear, identified as the ‘casualization’ of consumer wear, and the second force is the swift rise in costs for wool processors – including rising labour and energy costs in countries such as China.

These forces not only affect the cost of retail items, but also build demand for particular types of wool wear.

This casualisation of workplace attire and the wide adoption of flexible work arrangements such as working from home, are shifting white collar workwear away from the traditional ‘suit and tie’ towards the more casual jacket and knitwear.

for womenswear), with China being the exception posting a small rise.

For some countries, the declines have been very significant: Germany’s imports declined by 30% and Italy by 28%. This data is consistent with Chinese wool woven garment export data, which recorded a 9% year-onyear decline for the year ended March 2014.

Over the same time frame, the average unit value of the imported woven outerwear items has increased by 10% overall, with the high unit value for Chinese wovenwear imports most likely reflecting luxury item qualities.

The data paints a sobering picture – emphasising not only the difficult trading conditions being experienced in many key markets (e.g. Japan, USA, and the Eurozone), but also the prospect that casualization is shifting demand away from some traditional clothing forms.

The data also underlines the importance and urgency of international marketing programs aimed at stimulating demand for wool, such as the Campaign for Wool, but also efforts being made to foster development of new product market categories, such as infantswear.

The chart shows trends in import volumes for wool woven outerwear garments.

Australia’s biggest traditional northern-hemisphere wool consuming markets is USA, Japan, UK, France, Germany and Italy. China is included.

The data shows the volume of wool woven imports for these countries has declined by 20% in 3 years (25% 14 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Source: AWI

INDUSTRY

ANTI CORRUPTION DRIVE IN CHINA IMPACTS WOOL DEMAND Since the beginning of 2014 and under the new leadership in the government, China has been undergoing a major campaign to curb deep rooted corruption. The cyclone-like movement has seen a number of senior officials purged across the board, from military, civic and industry sectors.

O

ne may ask how this will affect the wool textile industry in China and whether it will impact its relationship with the Australia wool growing industry?

Over the last 10 years, with the gradual improvement in living standards in China, the disposable income for individual households has been increasing significantly, as has expectations in services offered by organisations, particularly government departments to its employees. This includes better quality uniforms. As a result, almost half of wool importation into China has been consumed by the corporate uniforms sector.

Millions of kilos of Australian merino wool has been used for this particular purpose and the Australian woolgrower has been benefiting from this supply need for many years.

in the tendering process in all government purchasing. This new policy has resulted in reduced orders for new uniforms from government run enterprises to the domestic wool textile industry.

As a consequence most worsted mills in China, particularly those that have been involved in manufacturing corporate uniforms over the past few years, have suffered from a downturn in orders. Needless to say, this scenario translates into a soft demand for fleece type wools out of Australia to China.

government spending�. Unfortunately the wool

At the same time, austerity measures have been put in place to cut back on “unnecessary

long term issue. On the contrary, a lean and clean

percentage used in uniforms has been identified as an area where cost savings can be made. This policy has resulted in a reduction in wool used in uniforms.

However, having mentioned the current political situation, the Chinese economy still remains healthy and strong. Most of the analysts predicate that the anti-corruption movement in China will come to an adjustment towards the end of the year which may see the shift in emphasis by the government from the political clean up to a greater concentration in economic build up.

Nevertheless, the short term pain the wool sector has been suffering does not suggest this will be a Chinese government will pave the way for further development in that country.

However, the current anticorruption campaign has temporarily changed this tune. Briberies, kickbacks, and embezzlement in the public sector have been rife. The corporate uniform business, in particular the tender process and manufacturing has often been abused by corrupt individuals. The government has introduced better regulations WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 15

INDUSTRY

VIETNAM IS SET TO GAIN MOST FROM A CUTBACK ON SOURCING Rising costs in China have been forcing an increasing number of Western apparel brands and retailers to cut back on sourcing in China and have more of their apparel manufactured elsewhere, according to information company Textiles Intelligence.

H

owever, in looking for alternative production locations, Western buyers have found that their options are limited as no other single country can provide the capacity, quality, skills, variety, and complete supply chain which the Chinese textile and clothing industry possesses.

Many buyers are also wary about

Also, many of the more attractive alternative locations suffer from various disadvantages. Concerns over factory safety, and adverse publicity associated with these concerns, are known to have deterred buyers from sourcing in Bangladesh -- one of the world’s lowest cost textile and clothing producing countries.

and appears to have escaped adverse

16 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

sourcing in Cambodia, a potential low cost alternative to Bangladesh and China, because of recent labour unrest and reliability issues.

Vietnam would appear to offer better prospects for Western buyers as it has a well developed textile supply chain publicity of the kind which has plagued the industries in Bangladesh and Cambodia.

In fact, Vietnam is expected to be one of the fastest growing suppliers of textiles and clothing to Western markets over the next few years.

In 2013 US textile and clothing imports from Vietnam grew in value by 14.6%, which represented the fastest growth rate among imports from the USA’s ten largest suppliers. And imports continued to grow strongly in the first four months of 2014, having increased by 15.5% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year.

Vietnamese exporters stand to gain from a successful conclusion to negotiations aimed at establishing a Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) free trade agreement. This would provide imports of Vietnamese products into the US market with significant tariff benefits and flexible rules of origin.

INDUSTRY

US imports from Bangladesh grew by 10.5% in 2013, making Bangladesh the USA’s second fastest growing supplier after Vietnam during the year. However, many of the orders placed with Bangladeshi suppliers for delivery in 2013 will have been negotiated before the collapse of Rana Plaza which housed five garment factories as well as a mall -- and the adverse publicity which followed.

In fact, recent data suggest that a move away from Bangladesh may well be under way. During the first quarter of 2014, US clothing imports from Bangladesh declined by 0.2%. US imports from Cambodia, meanwhile,

rose by only 0.7% in 2013 and during

January-March

January-April 2014 they were up by a

switched to sourcing locations other

relatively modest 2.1%. As a result, the

than

country lost market share.

China.

Admittedly,

Cambodia

2014

Bangladesh,

as

buyers

Cambodia

and

and

Vietnam seems set for a solid future

Bangladesh fared much better in

as an alternative sourcing location

the EU import market. In 2013 EU

to China. However, imports from

imports from Cambodia shot up by

Vietnam into the EU and the USA

37.3% and imports from Bangladesh

continue to be dwarfed by those

by 15.0%, which made Cambodia and

from China. The fact remains that no

Bangladesh the two fastest growing

country can match China in terms of

textile and clothing suppliers to the

the size of its supply base, its range

EU among the leading ten.

of skills, its quality levels, its product

Imports from Vietnam, on the other hand, grew by only 3.2%. However, growth picked up to 14.5% during

variety and the completeness of its supply chain.

Source: Textiles Intelligence

ETHIOPIA EXPANDS TO BECOME INDUSTRIAL HUB FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRIES Ethiopia will start setting up a new industrial park this year and will expand another at a total cost of $250 million in an effort to shift away from farming and become a hub for textile industries.

T

he Horn of Africa nation aims to attract investors and manufacturing from China and

other Asian markets, where costs are rising. Ethiopia offers cheap labour and fast improving power supply, transport and other infrastructure.

Luring new industry is seen as vital to maintaining high growth rates in Ethiopia’s still largely agrarian economy. The International Monetary Fund forecasts economic growth of 8% to 8.5% for fiscal 2014/15 but has also said the state must avoid squeezing out private firms.

Yaregal

Meskir,

Deputy

Director

General of the Ethiopian Industrial Development Zones Corporation said plans were being finalised to expand

the existing Bole Lemi Industrial Zone, on the southern outskirts of the capital, while a new industrial hub was planned at Kilinto, 30 km (20 miles) further south.

A third of the 156-hectare Bole Lemi site was developed at a cost of 2.5 billion birr ($127.5 million), financed by the state, in the first phase and has attracted Korean garment-maker Myungsung Textile Company and Taiwan’s George Shoe Corporation.

The Kilinto zone will cover 243 hectares.

The industrial parks are central to Ethiopia’s plans to build an industrial base, with textiles and garments seen as a key sector, in part because the country benefits from the U.S AGOA

trade pact allowing duty-free exports to the U.S. market.

The industrial zones offer land for factories at $1 per square meter a month, tax holidays for up to seven years and customs and other services on site for those investing in the nation of about 90 million people, officials say.

‘We prefer labour-based industries like garment manufacturing and shoe manufacturing for exports,’ Taddese Haile, State Minister of Industry, said.

‘Ethiopia has developed a strategy that gives priority to certain industries. The aim is to see Ethiopia as a globallyknown cluster for textiles and garment products.’

Source: Reuters WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 17

INDUSTRY

TECNOMECCANICA ACQUIRES SANT’ ANDREA NOVARA By: Victor Chesky

You will rarely find a processing plant anywhere around the world that does not utilise Sant’ Andrea machines. So when the company experienced some financial difficulties last year it sent ripples of concern throughout the industry. There was a sigh of reliefwhen Tecnomeccanica another well known textile manufacturer in Italy, took it over and announced ‘business as usual’. I caught up with Mario Ploner, commercial director of Tecnomeccanica to ask him about future plans for Sant Andrea Novara.

Mario Ploner

WOOL TRADE ET WOOL EXPORTER - FORMAT A4:COGNETEX-SANT ANDREA NOVARA - EXE

fibre to yarn units

18 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

‘It is business as usual, fulfilling existing and new orders, and ensuring that jobs are saved. Our first focus will be to reduce any delays in delivery of machinery for existing contracts.

We are also focused on follow-up service and maintaining production in spare parts. New contracts for new preparation lines is also in our radar’.

facility or shift the focus to other textile

What advantages does Tecnomeccanica bring to this new relationship with Sant Andrea Novara?

We are aware that the market was

“Tecnomeccanica is a market leader in fibre preparation in woollen spinning and Sant’ Andrea is a leader in worsted spinning. So, to combine these two areas of engineering expertise into PRESSE T oneWOOLindustrial group will produce good synergies both technical and commercial”.

to fulfil expectations for all customers.

I asked whether there are any plans to relocate the current manufacturing

machines traditionally made by Sant’

machinery?

“At present we will keep the two separate mills. It is important for us to utilize the expertise of Sant’ Andrea Novara. It has a long history of experience and expertise and we wish to take advantage of this position.

waiting for Sant’ Andrea Novara to resume its operation and our target is Many spinning mills utilize Sant’ Andrea Novara machinery and we anticipate that we will be in a position to fully satisfy their requirements in service and assistance as well as spare part supply and to maintain the production of all strategic models of Andrea Novara’.

INDUSTRY

NICHOLAS COLERIDGE

NSC FIBRE TO YARN NEW GN8 - FOR HIGH END FIBRE

N CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL WELCOMES NEW CHAIRMAN

C

ampaign for Wool welcomed its new Chairman late last year, with Deputy Chairman Nicholas Coleridge taking over from John Thorley - who is now Honorary President.

Mr Coleridge CBE is an author and magazine publisher by trade, he is President of the Conde Nast group which publishes 139 titles around the world including Vogue and House & Garden. He lives with his wife and four children in London and in Worcestershire in a house surrounded on all sides by sheep.

He is the author of 14 books, and has been involved in several of the Prince of Wales’s initiatives including The Prince’s Trust and Fashion Rocks. He was Deputy Chairman of the Campaign for Wool for five years before becoming Chairman and has been a particularly active and valuable supporter on the fashion side of the CfW programme.

“The Campaign for Wool is unique, in that it draws together every part of the wool business - from the farm gate to wool boards, to merchants, graders, spinners, mills...all the way to retail and the big department stores.

It is a global coalition of all interested parties, brought together by the Prince of Wales.

And that’s what makes the Campaign so powerful and such fun. I have made so many friends through the Campaign, many of whom I might never otherwise have met.

And I think that all of us who are involved feel that it has done some really useful work, and made a difference, and the best is yet to come.”

20 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

SC fibre to yarn unveiled its new GN8 intersecting at the ITMA ASIA 2014 in Shanghai earlier this year. It is the latest technological advance made to the NSC product range. The unique characteristics of the GN8 enable the process of any wool or wool-like fibre. ‘It is particularly adapted to process delicate, fine and short fibres such as cashmere, silk, and any kind of fibres with low cohesion’, says Patrick Strehlé Commercial Director at NSC. NSC is a leading manufacturer of textile machinery from fibre to yarn including combing, worsted cards and stretch breaking machinery.

More than 25,000 machines are currently in operation around the world.

According to Mr Strehlé the latest innovation introduced into the textile machinery industry allows manufacturers to stay one step ahead of their competition. The new machines provide excellent quality output, and the cost savings

offered

in

energy

consumption

provide an attractive option to wool processors.

The new GN8 offers a new and revolutionary intersecting design based on the latest technology in chain gill drives combined with the universal drafting head in the GN series. The GN8 head sits in a double pinned field with fallers driven by double threaded screws giving a mechanical speed up to 2,000 drops per minute. It can be equipped with an electronic auto leveller RE type.

Lines with GN8 intersecting are particularly adapted to units with small lots.

‘We expect this new technology to be in high demand as it is so versatile. It can be used in defelting, blending,

combing,

recombing

spinning preparation, semi worsted process for wool, cashmere, any long staple chemical fibres as well as flax tow.’ For more information please contact Patrick Strehlé patrick.strehle@nsc.fr

INDUSTRY

www.hdawson.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 21

INDUSTRY

Allan Savory presents his finding to IWTO delegates in Cape Town

Geoff Kingwill, Chairman Cape Wools SA

SHEEP CAN SAVE THE PLANET Properly managed livestock can save the planet from the effects of desertification said Mr. Allan Savory at the 2014 IWTO Congress in South Africa. He spoke to an audience of conference delegates. Mr. Allan Savory is a Zimbabwean biologist, farmer, soldier, exile environmentalist, and winner of the 2003 Banksia International Award and the 2010 Buckminster Fuller Challenge.

A

ccording to Chairman of Cape Wools South Africa, Mr. Geoff Kingwill, his presentation was a watershed moment for the global wool industry to agree the positive impact the industry has on the environment. The wool industry is responding to external pressures to provide information on its environmental impact and extensive LCA research that the industry has undertaken of late will be published in the near future.

“I first heard him speak in the 1990’s and we actually apply those principles.

I believe in them, they do definitely work,” says Kingwill, adding that Mr. Savory’s message is wonderful for the industry because it is the 22 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

complete opposite of what a lot of

“Savory

environmentalists have been saying

South African university during the

i.e. there are too many sheep, get them

apartheid era, simply because his

off, you are messing up the land, while

views ran so contrary to conventional

Savory is saying that by removing the livestock you will really mess up the land.

Savory told delegates that the concept of stocking rate has no basis in science and is only based on belief.

was

banned

from

every

wisdom. I think people haven’t been open-minded enough,” says Kingwill.

The wool industry is getting smarter and making better use of good quality research and information to address

Over-grazing of plants has nothing

concerns raised by the likes of the

to do with animal numbers.

It has

Sustainable Apparel Coalition, whose

everything to do with how many days

Higg Index scores wool badly on

a plant is exposed to grazing and how

environmental performance due to

many days it gets to recover.

the land it uses. The technical data

Savory suggested learning from history

will drive the agenda going forward

when many more animals roamed the

and definite progress will be made.

land without destroying it.

Source: Cape Wools

INDUSTRY

SUPERFINE WOOL PRODUCTION SURGES IN 2013/14

S

Although starting from a low base, less than 16.5 microns have

(18.5 micron and finer wool)

WORLD

mkg clean

120

mkg clean

100 80

4.6% 3.5%

4.9%

4.5%

7%

% of Total Clip

5.4%

4.7%

% of total

4.8%

5.1%

5.0%

5.6% 4.8%

6.1%

6% 5%

4.5%

60 3% 40

2%

AUSTRALIA

mkg clean

% of total

30%

120 mkg clean

19.7% 19.2%

80 60

14.6% 9.5%

15.9%

14.2%

26.2%

% of Total Clip

100

4%

18.2%

22.8%

25%

19.4%

20%

21.1%

17.4%

15%

15.8%

40

10%

20

5%

0

0%

0

0%

20 13 /1 4f

1%

20 01 20 /02 02 20 /03 03 20 /04 04 20 /05 05 20 /06 06 20 /07 07 20 /08 08 20 /09 09 20 /10 10 20 /11 11 20 /12 12 /1 3

20

20 13 /1 4f

Information published by AWI indicate the following changes in wool production: fine wool (less than 19.5 micron) volume increased by 2.5 million kilos greasy (+1.7%), where broader wool (greater than 19.5 micron) has decreased by 151 million kilos greasy (-45%).

Predominately the increase was in the sub 17.5 microns.

World and Australian Superfine Wool Production Surges in 2013/14

20 01 20 /02 02 20 /03 03 20 /04 04 20 /05 05 20 /06 06 20 /07 07 20 /08 08 20 /09 09 20 /10 10 20 /11 11 20 /12 12 /1 3

uperfine wool production is on the increase. Due to climatic conditions and changes in the Australian sheep flock, farmers are producing finer wool and less coarser wool.

increased by 276% and 16.6- wool, from 20.6-24.5 microns experienced a 60% Source: Poimena Analysis, AWTA, NZWTA, Cape Wools, FLA, Delta, American Sheep Industries, 17.5 microns have increased by decrease. This dynamic change in production has China Wool Textile Association.

60%. In contrast the broader dampening effects on prices.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 23

INDUSTRY

CHARGEURS WOOL TRANSFORMS ITS BUSINESS

Martine Odillard

CHARGEURS WELCOMES NEW CEO Martine Odillard held the position of Chief Operating Officer of Chargeurs from September 2010 and has been appointed CEO, replacing Eduardo Malone who remains Chairman of the Board of Directors, in March 2014.

Chargeurs is a global manufacturing and services group with leading positions in three niche markets: temporary surface protection, technical textiles, and combed wool. It has 1,600 employees based in 31 countries on 5 continents serving companies in more than 45 countries.

In 2013 consolidated revenue totalled Euro466 million, of which 93% was generated outside France. After sustaining a large operating loss in 2012 (15 million) Chargeurs realized an operating profit of Euro17.8 million and net profit of Euro3.6 million in 2013.

Operating results of Euro17.8 million exceeded the initial target of Euro14 million. ‘Prospects for 2014 are pretty good. Operating profit improved over the first quarter of 2014 and is in line with the announced target for annual recurring profit of Euro20 million by year-end 2015.’

24 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Federico Paullier Managing Director of Chargeurs Wool

Chargeurs Wool has continued its diversification by focusing on its expertise as a service business with a minimum investment in industrial assets. It specialises in top making that consists of designing wool blends that meet the needs of spinning mills. It is a major world leader in combed wool sales.

I

n 2013 Chargeurs Wool completed its transformation into a service business, organised around a global sales network and backed by industrial assets owned in partnership.

The decline in 2013 revenue reflected the sharp 20.2% negative impact of changes in the scope of consolidation due to the disposals carried out since 2012, an 11.6% negative impact from the falloff in volumes and the 5.2% negative effect of lower raw wool process. On the other hand, operating profit rose during the year.

Following completion of its partial divestment strategy, Chargeurs Wool has retained full control of the value chain and with it, the ability to ensure finished product quality. ‘We are now focused on marketing the product to nurture strong, trusting, responsive relationships with customers’, says Federico Paullier Managing Director.

‘In exchange, that obviously means that we work with the world’s bestknown, most solid brands. We are

not looking to compete with Asian suppliers of lower quality wool.

‘Our new profile is enabling us to reduce our financing needs and more easily manage our ‘wool risk’. In the new organisation, where our partners are involved in the industry upstream, we now prefer to source our financing locally.

‘We have a whole new outlook. 2014 will be a year of stabilisation’, says Mr Paullier. ‘Everything that Chargeurs Wool has undertaken over the past two years settles into cruising speed.

While revenue will probably be on par with 2013, operating profit is expected to increase slightly. Although wool has become a niche business, over the long-term, the increase in the Chinese middle class should create new outlets. For now, the high-end apparel and sportswear markets are driving demand for fine, environmentally friendly, socially responsible wool.

We can meet this demand thanks to the certification policy of our partner combing mills’.

INDUSTRY

TRACK THE AUTHENTICITY OF YOUR WOOL PRODUCT BACK TO ITS SOURCE NZWSI, a New Zealand exporting and processing company has developed an accurate tracing system that is able to track the authenticity of your wool product back to its source via invisible markers embedded in the fabric, woven label or printed swing tag.

T

he technology used in this system will enable manufacturers to protect the quality, performance, and reputation of their wool products from any point along the processing chain that may substitute or dilute the specified wool content in their product.

This technology will provide accurate tracing of wool, yarn, textile products and garments back to its source. The invisible markers can be embedded at different stages of wool processing including scoured wool, wool top, and yarn for detection in fabric, or the finished product such as sweaters, suits and carpet.

According to Malcolm Ching, company spokesperson, this technology is like a sleeping policeman, that allows you to track and trace at any stage, manage inventories, and provide peace of mind product integrity.

‘An individual marker is made for each user. It is then injected into the product. It is invisible to the naked eye and has no effect on the performance or quality attributes of the final product.’ says Mr Ching. ‘The codes, scanners, and licences are extremely robust and resistant to counterfeiting’.

PureTT licensed technology was developed and patented

by CSIRO, Australia’s foremost research provider, and AgResearch Ltd, a New Zealand government research institute with specific capabilities in wool. The technology is licensed to the Lempriere Group and its associated companies for exclusive use in wool by VerifiTT Ltd, a company formed to commercialise this technology.

For more information contact Malcolm Ching at Malcolm@woolserv.co.nz With PureTT you can track the authenticity of your product back to its source - via invisible markers embedded in either your fabric, woven labels or printed swing tags WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 25

INDUSTRY

New technology enables manufacturers of yarn, fabric and garments to take the guess work out of comfort and handle measuring

TAKE THE GUESS WORK OUT OF NEXT-TO-SKIN WOOL MEASURING For years the textile industry has been looking for a precise way to measure next-to-skin comfort in woollen fabric. Providing technology that can measure the comfort and handle of next-to-skin wool products would be of great benefit to the whole next-to-skin wool supply chain. After years of research the Cooperative Research for Centre for Sheep Industry Innovation (Sheep CRC), Deakin University and the Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) have developed technology that achieves just that.

T

he Wool ComfortMeter™

discomfort. The test can be performed

works by counting the number

on yarn, fabric or garments.

of fibres that protrude from the

fabric or yarn that have the potential

The Wool HandleMeter™ objectively measures seven core attributes in

to cause discomfort. As the number

handle in fabric and garments:

of fibres increase so does the level of

smoothness, softness, warm feel,

26 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

dry feel, hairiness, tightness, and perceived weight and overall luxury handle index. It provides product assurance; ambiguity and human subjectivity are replaced with transparent measureable values that ensure buyer requirements are clearly

INDUSTRY

Statistically speaking

Italy James Rowe (left) Sheep CRC and Michael Jackson AWTA at the Australian launch of the ComfortMeter technology earlier this year

communicated and understood along the supply chain.

devicesas a component of their

The Wool ComfortMeter™ and WoolHandleMeter™ can be purchased and used by researchers, processors, manufacturers and retailers. AWTA will be the manufacturing coordinator of the product and is in the process of drawing up a contract with a distribution company to market it overseas.

According to an AWTA spokesperson

James Rowe from the Sheep CRC commented that ‘these new technologies objectively measure the comfort and handle attributes of next-to-skin wool knitwear. They will provide greater product transparency.

The objective data provided by this technology fills a gap in the retailer’s ability to specify to their suppliers the comfort and handle level they require for their garments. Designers can manipulate the measureable numeric values to create products that respond to specific customer need.’

Country Road and Mengdi.

The devices provide product consistency to retailers and manufacturers in quality across multiple batches.They also enhance product development and will assist both retailers and manufacturers to innovate with aspects of product comfort and handle that responds to their target customers’ needs. They allow manufacturers to differentiate their product from that of their competitors by adopting these

become a must have quality assurance

Italy consumes (per year): 20,000 t of wool tops 75,000 t of woollen yarn 60,000 t of woven fabrics

quality process. the feedback from processors, spinners and retailers has been very positive. Some major manufacturers

Italy exports: 40,000 t woollen yarn 36,000 t of woollen fabric

in China and Europe are piloting this technology. The HandleMeter™ and Wool ComfortMeter™ have also been embraced by Australian and Chinese knitwear manufacturers such as

1 person in 8 is employed in the textile industry 60% are women

When fully commercialised it is expected that this technology will become essential to the marketing of wool including in new areas such as infant wear and dermatological applications.

Italy accounts for 45% of textile production in EU-12

‘This technology will facilitate the use of wool in novel ways including such areas as medical and baby wear product markets’, says Mr Michael Jackson, AWTA Managing Director.

‘The Wool ComfortMeter™ will

Fabrics: exports 60% domestic 40%

test for those seeking to supply such wool products.’

It is expected that this new technology will also generate new demand for next-to-skin wool

Yarn: exports 53% domestic 47%

garments and help to make the case for price premiums between superfine and ultrafine wool. For more information please contact AWTA on www.woolcomfortandhandle.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 27

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

RIGHT: HRH The Prince of Wales in front of burn test jackets

Peter Ackroyd

CELEBRATES

THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

5TH ANNIVERSARY with RECEPTION at CLARENCE HOUSE by: Peter Ackroyd, President of IWTO and COO of The Campaign for Wool

THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL Patron: HRH The Prince of Wales

T

he event, hosted by The Prince, was a unique celebration of wool

and

everything

this

sustainable material contributes to The Great British High Street, namely fashion and interiors. The occasion was marked by informative talks by very special guests including Nicholas Coleridge CBE, Chairman of the Campaign for Wool, highlighting two of the Campaign’s most frequently made claims regarding wool’s benefits: firstly, that it is a supremely safe fibre thanks to its natural fire retardant properties and that secondly, wool quickly biodegrades in soil – a key ecological benefit.

28 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

On the 12th of June in the gardens of Clarence House, in the Presence of HRH The Prince of Wales, The Campaign for Wool marked its 5th anniversary with a major celebration of wool.

“Not only is wool one of the most resilient, ecological and sustainable natural fibres in the world, it is also one of the safest because it is so fireproof,” The Prince noted in his speech to key guests representing brands and fashion designers from the Wool Collection. “As I never tire of pointing out, wool is not only one of the oldest fibres known to mankind, it is also one of the most beneficial.”

The Campaign for Wool is a global endeavour initiated by HRH The Prince of Wales, in order to raise awareness amongst consumers about the unique benefits of wool that all of us acknowledge as the ultimate natural renewable and biodegradable fibre.

BIODEGRADABILITY To demonstrate one of the key ecological messages around wool, a wool sweater and a synthetic lookalike were buried side by side in one of the Clarence House flowerbeds. The Prince of Wales used his grandfather King George VI’s ceremonially spade to sprinkle top soil on the buried garments. They will be disinterred in a few months’ time in front of an audience of buyers and press.

The average person produces 500kg of waste each year, 25kg of which is textiles. The current practice of waste ending up in landfill is not a sustainable solution for the fashion

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

and interior industries. Natural fibres, particularly wool, biodegrade rapidly and actually enrich the soil in which they are buried.

As a biodegradable product, wool can be broken down by a biological process (bacteria and fungi) into natural raw materials. These are carbon dioxide, water and naturally occurring minerals, which are then reintegrated into the nutrient cycle. Conditions needed for products to biodegrade are oxygen, warm temperatures and humidity. Wool is made by nature and thus is naturally biodegradable.

It is made of a protein called keratin.

During the biodegradation process, fungi first destroy the fibre ends.

Bacteria then digest the attacked fibre by secreting enzymes. The carbonto-nitrogen-ratio of wool is quite narrow, meaning that wool has a high percentage of nitrogen. This is the reason for good biodegradability.

Visitors to Clarence House throughout the summer will also have the opportunity to learn about the project via a plaque, marking the burial site.

WOOL IN FASHION AND INTERIOR DESIGN As part of the initiative, a selection of wool items from the AW collections of Campaign for Wool brand partners in fashion and interiors was exhibited at the launch, showcasing a selection of the finest wool pieces under the umbrella of the ‘Campaign for Wool Collection’. To bring these elements to life, a host of fifteen models formed sets on the lawn of Clarence House, grouped into four distinctive looks including: Bespoke, Young Talent, Textile Innovation and The Great British High Street.

The collection was styled by Anders Soelvsten from LOVE Magazine. The fashion looks featured an eclectic mix of brands including Anderson and Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Richard

Left to right: Nicholas Coleridge, Chairman of The Campaign for Wool, and Peter Ackroyd with HRH The Prince of Wales

James, Marks & Spencer, Jigsaw, Timothy Everest, Zegna Tech Merino, Sibling, Barbour, Jaeger, John Lewis and Heals.

WOOL AND FLAME RESISTANCE During the reception, Nicholas Coleridge presented the screening of a burn test which took place at Clarence House the day before the event. The screening showed a wool duvet, a jacket and a carpet alongside their synthetic counterparts being set alight to showcase the natural flame retardant attributes of wool. Wool’s complex cell structure, high water and nitrogen content, high ignition point and tendency to self-extinguish make it a uniquely safe fibre for the home.

Over 130 VIP guests learned that amongst commonly used textile fibres including cotton, rayon, polyester, acrylic and nylon, wool is widely recognised as the most flame resistant.

Some of wool’s key fire resistant attributes include a very high ignition temperature of around 570-600° C, a

high Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI) which is the measure of the amount of oxygen needed to sustain combustion, a low heat of combustion which relates to the measure of the amount of heat energy released in the burning process, the fact that wool does not melt or stick and is self-extinguishing.

Due to its naturally high nitrogen and water content, wool requires higher levels of oxygen in the surrounding environment in order to burn.

In addition, wool’s highly crosslinked cell membrane structure will swell when heated to the point of combustion, forming an insulating layer that prevents the spread of flame.

This mechanism also means that wool produces less smoke and toxic gas than synthetic fibres. It’s these scientific properties in wool, a natural fibre with great technical benefits, which will be celebrated today.

The International Wool and Textile Organization, in close collaboration with The Campaign for Wool, provided the credentials for the biodegradability and flammability demonstrations.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 29

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

Sheep grazing outside leading department store La Rinascente

GLOBAL PROGRAMME CONTINUES SUCCESS OF CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

F

ive years of consistent activity has seen the Campaign for Wool (CfW) - an international promotional umbrella - bring a breath of fresh air to the profile of wool. An agenda, set by its Patron, His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales, put increased financial returns for the sheep farmer at the top of its list. As the CfW is largely funded by wool producer organisations, that is understandable. But the need to promote the natural, sustainable story of wool with its many performance attributes required a multilateral approach and the CfW leadership team acknowledge that their underlying mission is for everyone along the field to finished product chain, to benefit from this activity.

Clearly, it is this ethos that has seen the immense effort and support 30 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

By: Bridgette Kelly

from manufacturers and leading retail brands and undoubtedly this cumulative approach works. As a partnership led campaign, it offers more substance in its programme to position wool as the superior fibre for fashion, interiors and the built environment.

UK ACTIVITY GROWS WITH MAJOR BRAND SUPPORT Last year the CfW focused on several key events - Wool House was held in March and saw over 17,000 people attend to see wool in interiors, craft and fashion. Seven stunning rooms were designed by interior designers but the seventeen room space at London’s Somerset House was a stunning interactive showcase for the fibre and proved a huge hit.

Wool School - in its second year captivated the student population of the leading fashion and textile colleges. A competitive Brief required students to design a wool jumper for a particular brand retailer - saw one student win from each of fifteen colleges. These then went on to be displayed in fifteen retail stores during the UK October wool week. High Street names were very keen on this activity - Marks & Spencer, Topshop, Hobbs and Jigsaw were matched by more upmarket brands like Lyle & Scott, Margaret Howell and Pringle of Scotland.

Partnerships with retailers have always been very important to the CfW activity and windows in leading London stores have been hugely valuable - worth a minimum of £15k in most cases, this is a clear indication

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

of the level of impact the CfW has attained.

In 2013, John Lewis’s flagship store on Oxford Street gave a window to the CfW’s Knit Nation - which saw the window knitted up over the course of a week to promote in-store knitting workshops - held interestingly in their fashion department rather than the haberdashery section.

The CfW uses a Public Relations and social media strategy which in the UK last year achieved a PR value of over £11m GB - this is an audit valued on editorial space. Social Media has also become vital and the CfW investment across Facebook and Twitter has seen a significant community emerge on both platforms.

A revision of the CfW website with a global perspective has streamlined its image and managed the Campaign’s focus on its owned promotional activity while still harnessing the many supporter and community events and interactions.

Ultimately it is the broad support and spread of concepts, promotional platforms and activity that has driven the consumer profile of wool to an all time high and this has stimulated a desire to be included by all levels of the wool industry, brands and retailers.

INTERNATIONAL PROGRAMME CONTINUES Internationally, The Woolmark Company has now activated the CfW in Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, China, Japan, Korea and had a major launch in Italy last year.

Peter Ackroyd, Chief Operating Officer of CfW comments, “The Woolmark Company is very keen to support flagship Campaign for Wool events in key cities that have international fashion and lifestyle resonance.

In September 2013 the Campaign partnered with Italy’s leading apparel

John Lewis - major UK retailer - gave a window to be knitted-up for Wool Week

fabric exhibition, Milano Unica and Milan’s iconic department store, La Rinacente to showcase wool for both Italian early autumn consumers and for the fashion industry sourcing fabrics for the following winter season.

This year the Campaign will be in Paris partnering with Vogue Fashion Night Out, BHV department store and several leading retailers for another early autumn consumer wool preview in one of the World’s great fashion capitals. The Campaign for Wool events in Paris coincide with Premiere Vision where over 200 wool weavers will be presenting their autumn winter 2015/16 collections to an audience of around 40,000 trade buyers.”

The CfW activity in the USA led by British Wool and CfW New Zealand, has seen a significant drive on expanding understanding of the fibre’s attributes and this year launched the first part of its Continuing Education Programme for interior designers and architects at Surfaces, North America’s leading flooring trade show in Las Vegas. The aim is to educate on the added values of the fibre to an industry sector that is committed via its government agenda to sustainable green initiatives.

Major investment is what makes all this happen - The Woolmark Company, British Wool Marketing Board, Campaign for Wool NZ and Cape Wools of South Africa are the prime financial backers with smaller

‘

Wool House saw over

funding

from

Norway,

America,

Uruguay and the IWTO.

17,000 people attend

But perhaps the most significant

to see wool in interiors,

years it has evolved an approach for

’

craft and fashion

aspect of the CfW is that within five the wool world to work together. A real global synergy is emerging and the Campaign’s activity is at the centre of it - this can only be good for wool.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 31

IWTO I.W.T.O. Dion Chang at the 83rd IWTO Congress in Cape Town

Elisabeth van Delden

WOOL 360° VIEWING THE FUTURE by: Elisabeth van Delden, Secretary General of the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO)

At the 2014 IWTO Congress, held in Cape Town, Key Note Speaker trends analyst Dion Chang challenged the wool industry to create a 360° argument for wool’s future.

T

hese words struck a chord with us at IWTO where, as the international representative of the world’s wool textile industry, we’ve been working to ensure a future for wool by strengthening wool’s credentials as the leading sustainable fibre.

The 360° argument, as we see it, means that wool needs to be viewed not only by consumers but also by policymakers, regulators, and interest groups. It means that wool is seen from farm to fashion and at all stages

32 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

in between. It requires our industry to be open and transparent.

But this is exactly where we need to be. As Mr. Chang astutely pointed out, the more that people understand about the processes and the origins of wool products, the more connected they will feel to wool and respond accordingly. As an industry we’ve been slow to make the transition to the technology- and knowledgedriven era. The future will require that we adapt. It is through engagement about processes and provenance that our industry must communicate; it is here where we can build trust in wool as a healthy, safe, sustainable and environmentally ethical product.

BEGINNING TODAY

I

WTO has already begun to engage at the 360° level. For example, an important aspect of the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) project is engagement with key stakeholders like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). Involvement with this, similar environmental reporting, and consumer groups allow the industry to be seen as part of the solution, instead of part of a problem.

Likewise, IWTO has also joined the Livestock Environmental Assessment and Performance (LEAP) Partnership, part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, which examines the greenhouse gas emissions and fossil energy demand from small ruminant supply chains.

By becoming part of the regulatory consultation process IWTO is working to ensure that assessment models

IWTO I.W.T.O.

reflect the reality of wool sheep and that those who create the models are informed about wool and its unique profile.

Another important angle is research and development. IWTO members have recently initiated research that will bring hard scientific support to the claims we make about wool in human health and well-being. Through this project we aim to be able to showcase wool as the “real deal”, building credibility with consumers for whom health and wellness is a priority.

Last but not least, rounding out yet another part of the picture, IWTO brings the Wool Round Table to Brussels, 1-2 December 2014 to foster greater understanding between our industry and European policymakers and regulators. The event will provide an exchange on issues such as access to Europe’s consumer market, animal welfare standards, trade bio-security, and more.

THE FUTURE IS NOW

A

s consumer markets shift in coming years, as is commonly predicted, and demand for

fibres

accordingly

increases,

the

360° argument for wool will become ever

more

important.

Meaningful

engagement needs to start today.

Openness about wool processing and animal welfare will build trust in our industry. Being able to prove what we claim about wool will create new ways to relate to wool’s consumers, and vice versa. Through dialogue with all stakeholders, we foster understanding while ensuring wool is treated fairly.

In

order

to

build

this

level

of

meaningful engagement with wool and wool products, IWTO welcomes participation from all segments of the global wool industry. Wool companies wishing to take wool to the world of tomorrow should consider the benefits

IWTO’s Green Wool Facts - connecting the wool industry with sustainability

of being part of the view IWTO is shaping.

For more information on IWTO, its membership and projects, visit www.iwto.org

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 33

ENVIRONMENT

EXP 4.0

AN ECO-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE TO THE STANDARD CHLORINE-HERCOSETT PROCESS Schoeller is a textile company with headquarters in Switzerland.

It specializes in the development and manufacturing of innovative fabrics and smart textile technologies. At IWTO Congress in Cape Town it presented a new eco-friendly alternative to the standard chlorine-Hercosett process that uses a green chemistry approach

By Jan Siroky Head of Research, Development and Innovation at Schoeller Spinning group

N

ew processes and methods in wool processing have been developed in recent years as environmental concern increases (see Table 1). The main challenge for production and manufacturing processes lies in the developing processes that are eco-friendly, hence, reducing environmental impact, and maintaining or reducing the cost (energy consumption, price of waste water disposal, etc.).

Traditionally, the treatment used to impart felting is well-known chlorine-Hercosett oxidative finish, also known as “Superwash”. This finish provides zero-felt to wool, and improves dyeability and peeling.

Nevertheless the process leads to

ecological concerns regarding high concentrations of absorbable organic halogens (AOX) in waste water and air, and in finished products. Also, high quantities of dissolved organic carbon (DOC) compounds released from the fibre and added auxiliaries are present as well as the partial or total removal of scales (surface damage), surface smoothening (loss of wool natural character), yellowing and poor handle of treated wool fibre is reported.

30 million kilograms of superwash finished wool (world production of superwash wool according WOOLMARK) requires a consumption of environmentally hazardous substances in more than 2 000 tons of sodium hypochlorite (if NaOCl of 7.5% is considered) and between 2 500 to 5 000 tons of resin or other auxiliaries are used. The chlorination

and resin in process liquor baths leads to AOX concentration from about 39 mg/L to higher concentrations in the effluent (Müller, 1992), and additionally, volatile chlorinated compounds (trihalomethanes such as chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, or trichloroethylene) from the chlorination step needs to be considered (Steiner, 1995). This concentration represents an average AOX load of 350 g/tonne of treated wool (Müller, 1992),hence, estimated average of produced AOX compounds by superwash wool treatment lies between 12 000 - 14 000 kgs/annum.

Increasing environmental regulations, particularly that of European Commission, and the rising price of waste water disposal forced the development of alternatives to chlorine-Hercosett process (Table 2).

Table 1. Relative environmental impact of wool fibre production.

Relative impact (+ = relatively low impact, ++++ = relatively high impact) Fibre

Wool

Energy

Water

Waste water

Chemical

Land

use

use

production

use

requirement

+

+

++++

++-+++

++++

Source: Wool in Life Cycle Assessments and Design Tools http://www.sifo.no/files/file77634_wool_in_life_cycle_assessments_and_design_tools.pdf.

34 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

ENVIRONMENT

Table 2. Relevant methods used to impart wool felting.

Treatment effect/ Washability

Cost

Environment

Tumble drying

Chlorine-Hercosett

+

+

-

+

Enzymatic

o

-

+

-

Plasma

o

o

o

-

EXP 4.0

+

+

+

+

Method

+ = good, o = moderate, - = low impact, ? questioned Schoeller the Spinning Group has decided to tackle environmental issues in terms of avoiding chlorine oxidation and thus, discharge AOX compounds from the process, and developed a new Caroat-based wool treatment. The developed process uses a green chemistry approach – based on three steps (Figure 1). First, the oxidation of outermost wool surface (cuticula) followed by fibre stabilisation (reduction step), and the last step is surface final modification with gentle polymer application. From environmental aspects, it is chlorine-free treatment without AOX release (zero-AOX).

Figure 1. EXP 4.0 treatment EXP 4.0 treatment does not damage or smoothen the wool surface and therefore, preserves inherent characteristics of wool (source of fibre functionality). Despite this, the fibre performances like anti-felting, mechanical properties, machine washability incl. TM31 (1x7A / 5x5A), or tumble drying (TEC) are comparable to those undergone superwash treatment. Additionally, EXP 4.0 brings possibility to color wool in a new brilliant shades particularly brilliant white.

Schoeller’s EXP 4.0 process meets the highest standards; the chlorine-free process uses less resource than other conventional processes and is carried out reliably at the company’s European manufacturing site, it is a truly all-round sustainable innovation.

Worldwide, the EXP 4.0 is the first wool finishing process which meets the strict criteria of the “bluesign®» and «Global Organic Textile Standard” (G.O.T.S) standards, and it also conforms with the “ Oeko -Tex standard”.

This new standard in wool treatments is easy-to-adopt process because it does not requires additional or specialised machinery apart from defined and innovative chemistry-system optimised by Schoeller.

Schoeller once again proves its commitment to sustainable production towards decreasing AOX effluent load.

References: Müller, B.M., 1992. Adsorbable organic halogens in textile effluents. Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics 22, 14-21.

Steiner, N., 1995. Evaluation of Peracetic Acid as an Environmentally Safe Alternative for Hypochlorite.

Textile Chemist & Colorist 27, 29-32.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 35

YARN

SÜDWOLLE GROUP CHALLENGE TO THINK DIFFERENTLY By: Victor Chesky

Südwolle Group is a market leader in worsted yarn, offering a comprehensive range in standard yarns of wool and wool blends from Nm9 to Nm120 raw, white and colored. It operates one dying mill in Germany, two spinning mills in Poland, one in Romania, three spinning mills and one dyeing mill in China. The Groups distribution centers are located in Germany, Italy, UK, the US and China, as well as a sheep farm in Australia. The Groups Head Office is in Nürnberg, Germany. In 2013 Südwolle Group had a turnover exceeding EUR300 million. It employs 2400 people worldwide and remains a family owned venture. I asked Hans-Georg von Schuh Managing Director Sales how the company stays competitive and what is its future direction?

S

üdwolle Group supplies customers in Europe, the USA and Asia with a wide product range of yarns for weaving, flat and circular knitting

and technical textiles. In 2010 Südwolle Group established a brand system to focus more firmly on the different sectors of its market.

‘We operate in different sectors of the industry and our customers within each sector have different requirements when it comes to their brand identification. Our customers require an individual approach for their specific yarns.

As such, brand identification becomes more

Left to right: MANFRED HEINRICH - Managing Director Technology, KLAUS STEGER - Managing Director, HANS-GEORG VON SCHUH - Managing Director Sales, HANS MÜNCH - Managing Director Finance 36 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

important to our customers and their different needs must be addressed. allows

a

differentiated

Our brand structure marketing

approach

YARN

for each segment and therefore an efficient allocation of resources and new tools in forecasting and planning.

This allows for more accurate predictions and therefore leads to a better customer service.’

Südwolle Group entered a new phase this year with “Fit for Purpose” (Südwolle Group 5.0) and market approach and product development.

‘Being a market leader in our business field, we strive to maintain and strengthen our customer base, increasing our produce list and production efficiency. We continue to focus on improving our quality. There is a higher demand for research and development throughout the industry and to this end we have moved to a next development phase, Südwolle Group 5.0. We call this “Fit for Purpose” – Customization, Structure and Culture. A major centre of attention for us is that all departments and divisions within our Group should systematically target customer interest. So we are developing from classical textile manufacturing towards a service oriented approach.

This not only focuses on customer need but, and this is maybe the most important aspect, it develops new strategies in terms of market approach and product development together with our customers.’

‘We develop special programs with our major customers and in so doing we are defining new supply chain methods. This goes beyond internal and external cooperation because we effectively challenge our customers to think differently and develop new ideas. Working together with them we can then develop new innovative products and bring them to the market. Our technicians visit our customers’ factories to learn more about how our yarns are processed and, if necessary, even give advice. We actively ask our clients to take this new path in cooperation with us, which is

quite new for many. This will further advance the thinking of our wool industry. The idea that it is better to “keep our secrets” is not beneficial. We believe that to share our knowledge will bring all partners within the supply chain at least one step further forward.’

Research and development are key elements in promoting brand focus and customer satisfaction ‘To assist and engage with our customers worldwide all our production facilities are equipped with “small development centers”, which are under the umbrella of our central R & D department. Operating in Italy, Poland and Rumania and in China we can actively support our customer based approach wherever our customers are located.

Our supply chain thinking has emerged because of our interest in the outdoor and leisurewear segment of our business. Our brands include Yarn in Motion and Richter. With almost 10 years of experience in developing close supply chains in this field, we are now carrying this approach to all our brands. This is a challenging task but we strongly believe it is the only way to keep our small “wool world” alive in forward thinking within the huge textile industry.’

BRANDS With its roots in 1918, Südwolle has become the global market leader for worsted weaving yarn and a premium supplier of high quality yarn for men’s and women’s wear. > Brand Director: Stéphane Thouvay Biella Yarn is a specialist in high-quality flat knitting yarns for exclusive, fashionable clothing. The company was founded in 2001 in Biella, Italy. > Brand Director: Andreas Diebenbusch Founded in 2007 for the manufacturing of high-quality circular knitting yarns, YIM opened up a fast-growing natural fibre segment in the market, where previously chemical fibres were almost exclusively used. > Brand Director: Michel Mastio Richter became a member of Südwolle Group in 2010. As a specialist in hosiery yarns the Richter brand is the market leader in this field. > Brand Director: Michel Mastio In 2010 Südwolle Group acquired the Stöhr brand with a tradition dating back to 1880. Today Stöhr is one of the largest suppliers of naturally based technical yarns for the automotive industry, upholstery and corporate wear. > Brand Director: Bettina Christensen Soey is the viscose yarn brand of the group, offering Viscose Open End and Air Jet yarns. Soey is dedicated to the upper end of this sector, focusing on reliability and value. > Brand Director: Risheng Xia

time. Today, this goes beyond our core business in natural fibers like wool, cashmere and silk.’

Südwolle Group product range runs from pure merino wool yarns scoured from its own farm in Australia to silk, cashmere, alpaca, and technical blends.

The company continues to be a leader in wool and textile innovation and continues to challenge and encourage excellence in the wool industry.

Sustainability another key business goal for Südwolle Group. Eco Balance, the company review in environmental achievements, is published annually.

‘We are making strong efforts to be sustainable.

We also invite our business partners, especially suppliers and clients, to join us on this path. In order to ensure that we are fulfilling the same high standards in all areas of ecology and corporate social responsibility, we have regular programs auditing our suppliers. We encourage our suppliers in providing a great variety of raw materials to us and provide these in a shorter lead WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 37

YARN

EUROPEAN SPINNERS CHOOSE INNOVATION

By Bridgette Kelly

The world of wool yarn spinning is where wool really makes the shift from being a raw fibre to a product. Transformed by the skill of the spinner, it is here that the potential of wool is evolved.

B

etween early stage processing and manufacturing - a spinner by necessity has to look for the bulk orders and this, whilst constant, often stagnates any yarn development and impinges the potential market for wool with its amazing performance capabilities and its multiple appearance and textural characteristics. The spinning market is hugely price competitive, higher wool prices mean creative marketing is now more important than ever.

One yarn spinning mill that is challenging the way yarn is marketed, is Schoeller, the company founded by the Schoeller family in 1897 and the subject of a management buy-out in 2009 is based in Austria, Germany and the

Czech Republic. Schoeller is a sizeable operation, spinning more than 3000 tons of different fibres every year - 50% of the production is wool. About 500 people are employed across key areas which importantly include a Research and Development team, key to the innovation path they have taken in recent years.

Kurt Haselwander, CEO and Managing Partner has focused on the sustainable use of wool in different areas, particularly in development of technical and functional yarns. He has spent his early career working on the production side and now leads a long view marketing stance that is inspirational in spinning.

Schoeller’s primary focus is on worsted yarn, key areas lie in hand knitting, hosiery, functional, technical and automative; collaborating closely with customers, he comments, “We make a large range of products and the relationship with our customers are key because the quality of textiles for fashion, sport and technical fields of application depends on the quality of the primary material - the yarn” Recently, they launched the new chlorine free superwash treatment - EXP - that Mr Haselwander says has given them a significant advantage “While 100% natural wool provides the functionality - the chlorine-free treatment is first choice when sustainability is requested.” This strategic approach is looking at the way the market is shifting and the expectations of end-buyers and final consumers. It offers a highly marketable package.

Another added value development - their wool white technology - Enciel, makes it possible to dye wool in a very brilliant white - comparable to cotton white.

The company’s decision to target the automotive industry with wool is based on stepping ahead of the traditional spinning customer and developing initiatives that open up new markets for them by showing potential end-use customers what is possible. “Wool is a niche fibre but it has so many positive properties that could help to create

38 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

YARN

Wendy Rulkens, Yarn Developer at Mefil Spinning

E-car seats upholstered in wool

new products either in 100% or in combination with other technologies and materials - this opens up new possibilities. We have found it is better to show customers our own developments in finished products.”

both woollen and semi worsted with special characteristics in design, colour and construction. Wendy Rulkens, Mefil’s yarn developer is a Bachelor of Design and this is evident in their yarn offering.

Seven years after it started showing those end customers - the automotive sector - Schoeller received its first orders from a German company to produce the yarn for the first E-car where the seats upholstered in wool, benefit from the natural thermoregulation and add armchair comfort - Mr Haselwander’s response on the future of wool is clear, “Wool stands for comfort, exclusivity and wellness it has everything needed for modern product development.”

With fifty-three employees, Mefil has a production capacity of 1.5 million kgs a year - in wool they are mainly using British and New Zealand wools and their market has expanded in recent years from Europe to Africa, Asia, Australia and North America with a growing focus on the high end design market.

At Mefil in Maaeik, Belgium - a company founded in 1969, the focus is on carpet yarns for broadloom and rugs and across all sectors residential, hospitality, commercial, marine, and aviation. Mefil produce spun yarns,

Acknowledging the fluctuating cost issues of wool, Ms Rulkens still considers it the best fibre, “We will always recommend wool for quality and the most beautiful yarns. It has all the right credentials - renewable, biodegradable and sustainable but above all for us, it has the power within itself to felt and from that we can make the most stunning yarns.

There is no manmade fibre to equal it.”

Their ability to produce small quantities promptly and offer tailor-made yarns using a creative design approach that sees almost unlimited variety of twists, hard twists and multiple twist is a refreshing change from mainstream carpet yarns. An investment during 2013, in a unique Periloc© felting line gives them the facility to make heavy felted yarns that are felted individually in a continuous process to guarantee its felting characteristics.

“We like to experiment and develop new yarns that fulfil the demands of our customers” Ms Rulkens said.

Whilst Schoeller and Mefil are focusing on very different market areas - they share not only their belief in wool and its ability to perform but also their pro-active commitment to showing how investment in innovative design solutions for textiles can and do start with the spinner and the yarn.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 39

YARN

LIANHONG RESPONDS TO GLOBAL DEMAND

P

roduction to international standards and export to international destinations is keeping Lianhong busy. ‘Our wool tops, yarn and garments are as good as any in China,’ says Mr Xiaogang Zha, President at Lianhong Textiles. Lianhong Textiles is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments and wool tops. It was established in 1956 and is based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta.

‘We operate from scouring wool to knitting garments and this is a point of difference that we have been building on,’ says Mr Zha. Lianhong Textiles has an annual production capacity of 6,000 tons of wool tops, 3,500 tons of woollen yarn, 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn, 3,000 tons of worsted yarn and 2.5 million knitted garments. Its yarn list includes cashmere yarn, wool yarn, lambswool yarn, silk/cashmere yarn, angora/nylon yarn, viscose/cotton yarn, wool/acrylic yarn, wool/nylon yarn, etc. Its knitwear list includes cashmere sweaters, cashmere shawls, cashmere scarves, cashmere gloves, cashmere/silk sweaters, cashmere/cotton sweaters, etc. These products are exported to all parts of the world.

Lianhong Textiles is listed among the Top 10 Enterprises in China’s Woollen and Worsted Spinning Industry and its cashmere yarn is recognised in the Top 10 Brands in China’s Cashmere Yarn Industry. ‘Our environment management is up to international standards as is our quality management,’ says Mr Zha. Environmentally friendly processes and products are a cornerstone of Lianhong Textiles. It is not only ‘Woolmark’ and ‘Woolmark Blend’ licensed and ISO9001:2008 Quality Management System certified, but also Oeko-Tex Standard

40 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

YARN

100 accredited and ISO14001:2004 Environment Management System certified.

‘We remain focused on innovation, research and development,’ says Mr Zha. ‘We employ more than 950 people, including 200 technical personnel and personnel advancement is also high on our agenda.’

The wool top making subsidiary of Lianhong Textiles has 3 lines from Thibeau and NSC and 2 lines from Octir and Sant’Andrea. The woollen spinning subsidiary has 15 lines from Kyowa and 6 lines from Gaudino and has become the largest woollen yarn production base in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. The worsted spinning subsidiary has 4 preparation lines from NSC and Sant’Andrea, 20,000-spindle spinning frames from Zinser and 20 winders from Schlafhorst. The knitting subsidiary is equipped with 123 computerized flat knitting machines from Stoll.

‘In the last decade we have responded well to global demand and we have withstood such economic tests as the Global Financial Crisis,’ says Mr Zha. ‘We have increased our overall turnover on a yearly basis and have made significant achievements in product quality assurance. The support of local government and the strong teamwork of our employees have played a crucial role. As a result we have not experienced any difficulties and business continues to improve.’

‘Our company can satisfy the demands of buyers of wool tops, yarn and garments. We welcome enquiries from customers interested in establishing mutually beneficial relationships with us,’ concludes Mr Zha. For more information please contact Heinrich Zhang Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex.com Tel: +86-512-58416016 www.lianhongtex.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 41

YARN

XINAO TEXTILE EXTENDS YARN EXPORT REACH ‘Xinao dye house has created a collection of fashion colours as good as anywhere in the world’, says Zhou Xiaotian, General Manager.

The NATURAL range of colours is ecological friendly in warm and cool colours, contrasting from light to dark colours. The colours are fashionable yet in tune with the environment. The company is innovative in its use of chromatic contrasts, and is responsive to seasonal fashions.

‘A very competitive environment in the export market as well as the domestic Chinese market has put a lot of pressure on yarn manufacturers to increase their attention to quality and customer requirement. We produce our yarn using the latest Italian and German spinning machines’, says Mr Zhou. ‘Our CASHFEEL and LANABLEND are well-known and widely

worsted knitting yarn and 8,000 tons of top dye and yarn dye. It exports 40% of its yarn to the USA, Australia, Europe, Japan and Hong Kong.

Xinao Textile operates 40,000 spindles and full testing facilities. It uses Australian wool as its main material.

Xinao yarns have a soft handle and are bright in colour, popular on both the domestic and international markets.

Zhou Xiaotian, General Manager Zhejiang Xinao Textiles Inc.

used by international brands for their good anti-pilling performance and beautiful ‘handfeel’.

Zhejiang Xinao Textile Inc. is one of the largest worsted yarn manufacturers and exporters in China. It has an annual capacity of 6000 tons of

‘Our customers around the world appreciate that we facilitate a total solution for them, processing through the whole yarn production cycle, from greasy wool to yarn’.

Xinao Textile produces worsted knitting yarns of 100% wool and wool-blended with other fibers such as cashmere, silk, acrylic, nylon, lyocell, polyester and so on. The yarns are widely used in flat knitting, circular knitting, socks and uniforms with different yarn counts.

The Xinao Textile has adopted ISO9001 quality management system and ISO14001 environmental system and is accredited as a Woolmark licensee. It operates a Research & Development centre for wool textile in Zhejiang province.

‘Our entire yarn production process is safe, scientific and environmentallyfriendly and accredited OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 and EU Eco-label’, concludes Mr Zhou.

For more information about products available from Zhejiang Xinao Textile please contact John Liu (Manager International Trade Department) Tel. +86-573-88455812 E-mail: johnliu@xinaotex.com www.xinaotex.com

42 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Cashfeel

速

YARN

INDORAMA - ‘WE ARE BACK’

O

ne of the most catastrophic disasters to affect Thailand in living memory was the severe flooding experienced in 2011.

Thousands of people were affected by sweeping floods from the North.

The damage to property has been estimated in the billions of baht. One of the most heavily-affected provinces was Lopburi, situated on the plains of Central Thailand. The province is home to Indorama Holdings, Thailand’s first and only Worsted Wool production facility. The company was founded in 1994 and was the first business of Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, which today has a turnover of US$ 7.5 Billion and 47 plants in 17 countries.

When the floodwaters hit Lopburi, the wool facility was submerged under two meters of floodwaters for almost two months before the water started to subside. Much of the machinery was irreparably damaged.

With two decades of success and

44 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

commitment to customers and other stakeholders, the management decided to install a brand new plant with the latest technology and state-of-the-art machinery from reputed suppliers like NSC, Saurer–Zinser, Schlafhorst, Volkman, SSM and Xorella.

producer

A company spokesman said that its suppliers worked closely with management to revive the plant and capacity was brought up to its former production volume in record time. Its skilled workforce was retained with full pay throughout the flooding and renewal period of one year so that the company would not lose the advantage of its experienced and knowledgeable personnel.

apparel, knitwear, technical textiles

As a further precaution to prevent flooding in future, a 10-metre concrete flood protection wall was built around the site and more pumps were installed to ensure water is ejected rapidly.

standards that our customers have

Indorama Holdings has created an exceptional brand image and reputation globally as a renowned

Rajesh Banka, E: banka@indorama.

of

high-quality

Worsted

yarns using selected Merino fleece wool that caters to various sectors of the woven and knitting industry. The company produces more than 500 types of yarns from 10 Nm to 125 Nm suitable for woven, nonwoven, active and interior textiles.

According to Indorama ‘much credit and thanks go to our customers, suppliers and stake holders for their continued co-operation and support, which has helped the company to reclaim its position as one of the world’s

leading

manufacturers

of

worsted wool, maintaining the high come to expect, with certification from Oeko Tex, Eko Label, Reach, ISO 9000, ISO 14000 and Inter wool Labs.’

For more information please contact net, Mobile: + 66 8 1826 1120, Web: www.indoramaventures.com

www.sheepusa.org info@sheepusa.org

AMERICA

150

ASI PREPARING TO MARK YEARS “ A HEALTHY SHEEP INDUSTRY IS NOT ONLY GOOD FOR SHEPHERDS, IT IS GOOD FOR AMERICA

”

2015, it will be recognized for the same collaborative traits as its predecessor.

Don Meike, Wyoming, Chairman of the Board (1981) National Wool Growers Association

T

hose words from Meike came during the 116th year of the National Wool Growers Association, but his way of thinking was certainly in line with the group of sheep producers who gathered in New York way back in 1865 to see if they could find success as a unified group.

46 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

That unified group, by the way, still exists.

Known today as the American Sheep Industry Association (ASI), it is the oldest

livestock

trade

association

in the United States. And when ASI celebrates its 150th anniversary in

“ASI, and before that the National Wool Growers Association, have continuously advocated for sheep ranchers and farmers over a century and a half,” said Clint Krebs, the current president of ASI, which represents nearly 80,000 growers around the country. “People may not realize this, but the sheep industry produces lamb and wool in every part of the country. The industry

AMERICA

provides nearly a billion dollars in farm and ranch gate sales to the American economy, and is a mainstay of the many rural communities in which sheep ranchers and farmers are foundational members.”

ASI is also celebrating the anniversary by offering for sale limited edition blankets and pillows made from 100 percent U.S wool. Sheep and wool have a long and interesting history in the United States.

everything else), and the percentage

Marking 150 years is a remarkable achievement, and ASI is in the middle of preparing to celebrate the feat during the organization’s annual meeting, scheduled for Jan. 28-31 in Reno, Nevada. The annual meeting brings together producers and industry affiliates from across the country, making it the premier event for the sheep industry and offering great exposure and visibility to industry supporters.

“One of the things I found interesting in researching the history of sheep in the United States is the important role they played in developing a textile industry,” Krebs explained. “It was considerably more than just providing clothing; it was one of the real drivers of the economies of the various regions, because of the jobs that were created. People were required to have sheep in some areas, just to insure the success of their local economies.”

producing states, followed by Virginia,

“It will be business as usual as far as important meetings, informational and educational seminars and sheep industry updates, but the 2015 annual meeting will include some special features to recognize the 150th,” noted Peter Orwick, executive director of ASI. “It’s already a special event that brings the sheep and wool industry together. This time it will be a little extra special.”

Because sheep were being used to create strong economies, they were moved westward rapidly from 1850 to 1900 with the settling of the territories in the west, Krebs pointed out. Some interesting historical facts about sheep and wool, taken from M. L. Ryder’s historical book Sheep and Man: All of the soldiers in the Civil War wore wool uniforms (probably wool

of wool clothing in the general population was quite high.

In 1860, the states of Ohio, New York, Pennsylvania, Wisconsin and California were the five largest sheep West

Virginia,

Kentucky,

Indiana,

Missouri and New Mexico. Today, the five largest sheep producing states are Texas, California, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah, followed by South Dakota, Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Iowa.

A rapid increase in sheep numbers from 1850 to 1900 was brought on not only by settlers moving into new territories, but also by changing management

practices.

Producers

started herding sheep in large bands across the non-homesteaded lands of the west.

By 1900, Oregon had over 3 million sheep, and a wool textile industry.

California had 2.5 million sheep and Washington nearly 1 million.

Sheep numbers in the U.S. reached their peak of 56.2 million in 1942.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 47

AMERICA

QUALITY WOOL CLIP KEY TO LEMPRIERE USA

T U.S. ANIMAL CARE & WELFARE

T

he American sheep producers have a long history of providing excellent care for their animals, and make great efforts to assure their sheep are treated properly at all times. They do not condone or defend mistreatment or abuse of sheep either intentionally or unintentionally.

These principles hold true for all management practices, including the shearing of sheep -a necessary process that is of great benefit to the animals’ own welfare. Sheep must be shorn regularly to prevent excess wool from interfering with their bodies’ ability to thermoregulate. Excessive wool coats also make the sheep more vulnerable to becoming immobilized by physical obstacles in the environment and more susceptible to predator and parasite attacks. Annual shearings using approved, standardized handling techniques are designed for the comfort and wellbeing of the sheep. Shearing generally takes place before the lambing season in order to aid in lamb health and survival.

The American Sheep Industry Association (ASI), along with its member farmers and ranchers, promote and encourage the training of proper sheep handling and shearing. ASI provides its members with the Sheep Care Guide, an educational document for proper care, handling and management of sheep as an industry standard for sheep care. ASI also sponsors training for sheep shearers and provides educational material on proper shearing techniques.

48 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

he US wool clip is small and very diverse, providing a niche product for almost every type of manufacturing operation from weaving applications to value based woollen manufacturers. ‘Because of the diversity of the US clip, it is very important to know the farmers, the fibers, the brokers, the logistics, and the hidden costs’, says Rick Powers, division manager at Lempriere USA. ‘We are well positioned to provide that knowledge and do so for each and every client we supply.’

well as 10 years successful raw

Lempriere’s USA offices, located in the south eastern city of Charleston, South Carolina and in Texas, provide ready access to the entire USA wool clip.

team

The company team has great experience with international top making and scouring as

wool

marketing

to

overseas

merchants and processors. Rural Sheep station and brokering backgrounds and love of the fiber and wool industry enables the

team

to

communicate

effectively with in the farm community,

through

auction

houses, and through to the manufacturing

and

fashion

industry.

‘Our goal is to supply our international buyers with the best quality wool to meet their specific processing needs. Our is

very

knowledgeable

in US wool and its processing suitability, and we also offer our clients extensive services in

shipping

and

logistics’,

concludes Mr Powers.

Lempriere USA can be contacted at wool@lempriere.com.au

Lempriere USA and Chinese Delegation of buyers in Utah USA - June 2014 - Kitty Gu (American Sheep Industry Trad Rep), Cindy Chen (Reward Ningbo), Zhou Hua (Henghao Group), Rick Powers (Lempriere USA), Zhongxian Zhu (Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group), David Cummings (USA wool producer), Jason Bannowsky (Lempriere USA), Stephen Osguthorpe (USA wool producer) Chad Osguthorpe (USA wool producer) and Barry Savage (American Sheep Industry)

UNITED KINGDOM

I

n total contrast to the 2012/13 season, when auction prices and auction clearances were very volatile, auction clearances have been very good for the 2013/14 season, with clearances since September not falling below 88%. This is a reflection of both the 10% fall in supply this year and demand being maintained. We started the 2014/15 in June with only minimal stock and would, therefore, expect clearances to be at a similar level with prices remaining firm.

With this strong market the average sale action price for the 2013-2014 season was over a third higher than in the previous year, although still lower than that of two years ago.

The pattern of UK wool production is that following on from the increase in 2012/13, the unfavourable 20122013 winter led to a 10% fall in 2013/14 and following better weather conditions this last winter we expect a minimum bounce back of about 6% for 2014/2015.

In the near future, while much could change, the expectation is that UK clip is unlikely to recover to a large extent, and certainly not to pre-2010 levels as the flock, at best, remains stable.

The UK is unique in that it has more native sheep breeds within its shores than any other country in the world and, therefore, we have a wider variety of types of wool. We are constantly looking at the way we grade and present the wool and for the 2014/15 season have introduced new grades and changed the standards for others

in order to meet the ever changing requirements of the international market. Details can be found on our website.

It is important for the whole industry that wool prices are maintained to ensure continuity of supply into an ever competitive market. British Wool and New Zealand Wool crossbred prices are closely linked, and we believe that we must all work together and cooperate to promote wool to achieve a better price for all wools. That is why the Board strongly supports the work of the promotional ‘Campaign for Wool’, a massive endeavour to refocus the retailer and consumer interest in wool.

I M HARTLEY Chief Executive Officer British Wool Marketing Board

The Campaign has already achieved far more than we originally envisaged (in 2013 The Campaign for Wool generated editorial coverage across print, online and broadcast media totalling £21.9m)and we have now put the Campaign at the heart of our promotional strategy going forward over the next few years. We need to ensure the momentum of the Campaign is continued as we take it to even more international markets over the next few years.

We are also introducing a new promotional strategy for British Wool, in particular working with UK carpet manufacturers, the backbone of the demand for our fibre.

With these initiatives we believe that the prices for British Wool will be firm for the current season, and beyond.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 49

UNITED KINGDOM

BRITISH WOOL MARKETING BOARD INTRODUCES COMPREHENSIVE NEW GRADING SYSTEM

The United Kingdom is unique in that it has more native pure breeds of sheep within its shores than any other country in the world. In addition to this there are numerous cross breeds and continental breeds.

The BWMB is also unique in that it carries out the whole range of services to the industry:

Shearing Farm

& Collection

Depot Network

Grading

Testing

Auction

From Fleece to Product

T

he Board constantly reviews its operations to ensure that British Wool is presented as favourably as possible, and for it to be continued to be recognised as a quality unique fibre by the International Textile Trade.

Market requirements for British Wool have changed, particularly over the last two years as a greater percentage of the clip is now delivered direct from the Board depots to the end customer.

Therefore, the Board must ensure that a consistent, quality product within the criteria set by its customers is delivered out of its depots.

With ever changing consumer requirements and manufacturing capabilities, there is a greater range of potential uses for British fibre and wool, previously designated as carpet type wool, now has a wider application. 窶連s a result of this it was felt that the 50 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

R&D

Marketing

UNITED KINGDOM

grading standards for some of our grades were too wide and not easily understood by some of our customers’, says Mark Powell Chief Operating Officer. ‘New grades have been introduced, some grades abolished and the classification of the grades changed with, hopefully, more user friendly and transparent grade descriptions.’

British Wool, through style and quality, falls into 6 main categories. These are as follows: WOOL PRICE SCHEDULE CATEGORIES FINE WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Charollais, Clun Forest, Dorset, Hampshire, Shropshire, Southdown, Suffolk and their crosses.

Grade numbers range from 204 to 291 MEDIUM WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Beltex, Bleu du Maine, Border Leicester, Halfbred Scotch/Welsh, Lleyn, Romney, Texel and their crosses.

OLD 2013

New 2014

104 121 122 233

204 205 205A 232

379 346/347 342

338 345 348

423 426 430 427/434 431 433 417 416 490

461/471/481 462/472/482 463/473/483 464/474/484 465/475/485 466/476/486 467/477/487 468/478/488 469/479/489

454 383 OLD 389 2013 492

554 583 New 589 2014 592

701 702 703/705 704 603 604/621 457 459 658 374 376

601 602 605 606 614 620 647/651 649/652 656 674 676

706 709 727 733/798 734 794/793 660 663/665 666 689 690 691

707 712 723 732 735 736 760 763 766 789 790 791

N/A

444 777 779

Grade numbers range from 305 to 399 CROSS WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Masham, Mule, Scottish Greyface and their crosses.

Grade numbers range from 403 to 491 LUSTRE WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Bluefaced Leicester, Devon & Cornwall Longwool, Whiteface/Greyface Dartmoor, Lincoln/Leicester Longwool, Teeswater, Wensleydale and their crosses.

Grade numbers range from 503 to 592 HILL WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Cheviot, Exmoor Horn, Hill Radnor, Lonk, Shetland, Beulah/Welsh Hill Speckled Face and their crosses.

Grade numbers range from 601 to 699 MOUNTAIN WOOL Mainly wool from such breeds as: Blackface, Dalesbred, Rough Fell, Swaledale, Welsh Mountain and their crosses.

Grade numbers range from 707 to 791 The grade changes were introduced at the start of the 2014/15 season (June 2014), and to help identify this we have changed the colour of bale wrappers to green.

‘We have also made changes within our depots to ensure that our quality control systems are effective in delivering the consistency of product necessary. From a BWMB

MATCHINGS N/A N/A

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 51

UNITED KINGDOM

GRADING TERMS Hog

First Shear up to 15 months growth

Ewe

Second or subsequent shear up to 12 months growth

No1

Good uniformity of style, length, colour with a sound staple

No2

Average uniformity of style, length and possibly some slight discolouration and/ or staple weakness

Discoloured

Natural discolouration, yellowness in colour

Soft Cotts

Slightly matted fibres

Cotts

Matted fibres

Grey

Grey fibre content more than expected within the fleece

Kemp

Kempy fibre content more than expected within the fleece

perspective quality is paramount, and this has been stressed to all our staff from shearing to marketing. We will also be extending our Quality Assurance Scheme and will be revising the criteria in respect of this, ‘ says Mr Powell.

‘These changes are designed to ensure that our customers have confidence in our product and that British Wool will rightfully be classified as a premier fibre for the textile industry.’

52 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

SOIL CONTENT IN WOOL With the exception of Grade 205A (which is a Dorset Light Arable Grade i.e. old grade 122), we no longer make soil content grades i.e. Peaty Rubby nor Light Arable – these old grades will be graded for what they are i.e. 233 would be graded into the Fine Grades.

Predominantly 232 and 222 i.e. would go into No.2 but if they are of a good enough uniformity and quality they will be graded into No.1 grades. This will be the same format for all of the old Light Arable Grades: 345, 427, 727, etc.

MATCHINGS Mountain Matchings will be offered during the whole of the selling season and sorted by North of England Wools at Bradford. We approximately make 450,000 kgs of Grade 707 and we are going to sort 225,000 kgs and more should they prove popular with the Trade. With regards to Mule Matchings, we would offer these but these would obviously only be sorted/ available at the end of the grading season.

Please remember the new Mule Grade Numbers, as follows: GRADE NUMBERS

DEPOTS

461 to 469

Brecon & Newtown

471 to 479

Liskeard, South Molton, Ashford & Stamford

481 to 489

North of England Wools, Irvine, Evanton, Galashiels & Muckamore

For more information please contact BWMB

BritishFromWool wild landscapes to wonderful,

strong wool...

...and beautiful floors Choice...

There are over sixty different sheep breeds in the UK which provide more choice in natural shade and texture than any other country in the world.

Appearance...

The inherently robust structure will not be crushed and it will perform for many years while keeping good appearance.

Reliability...

Sheep that graze the hills and lowlands of the United Kingdom offer the strongest and most durable natural carpet wool in the world.

Performance...

British Wool is chosen by leading manufacturers, architects, designers and commercial buyers and is used in residential, contract and commercial locations all over the world.

www.britishwool.org.uk British Wool has undergone a full Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) and it has been tested to the industry recognised standard ISO 14040

UNITED KINGDOM

CURTIS WOOL DIRECT DOMINATES WOOL BUYING IN THE UK

‘It has been another busy season’, says Tim Holgate of Curtis Wool Direct from his head office in Bingley just outside Bradford UK. ‘We continue to be the largest buyer of UK wool, increasing our market share to over 50% of wool sold at auction. Our customers in China continue to rely on the highest, consistent product quality, greasy or scoured, punctual shipments and competitive service from us. world. This has been achieved through continued investment in both plant and machinery, working practices and human resources. Enco Certification for each processed lot provides the validation that retailers and consumers demand today.

Tim Holgate and Daniel Isbecque. - Joint Managing Directors. Curtis Wool Direct supplies greasy, sorted, scoured and combed wool types of many different origins and qualities.

O

ur customers worldwide see us as a one stop shop for all raw materials: greasy wool, scoured wool, combed tops and environmental testing. Through ownership of Haworth Scouring and Haworth Combing Co, we are also able to deliver clear benefits to our customers in terms of rapid response and delivery times, flexibility and the ability to innovate and adapt quickly to changing customer requirements.

Under one roof we run a seamless operation that works well as an integrated system for both us and our clients. ‘Being able to call upon

54 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

the services of Enco Global Testing Services, the environmental testing laboratory and consultancy, based at Haworth Scouring, has also made a real difference to both the Curtis Wool Direct trading operation as well as the processing arm of the group,’ adds Daniel Isbecque. ‘Focusing on sustainability and environmental credentials is helping to promote wool to a new and growing number of consumers. Our customers can have confidence in the knowledge that wool sourced from CWD has been processed to the highest environmental standards practiced anywhere in the

Curtis Wool Direct is a registered buyer and licensee of The British Wool Marketing Board. It specialises in exporting and processing British, Viking Norwegian, European, New Zealand, and Real Shetland Wools.

Apart from its head office in Bradford it has offices in New Zealand, Norway and Shetland where dedicated teams source wool for the group and its customers enabling it to offer an extensive range of greasy, scoured and combed wool from 16 - 40 micron and more.

‘We supply wool to all parts of the textile industry worldwide including carpet, hosiery, cloth, hand and machine knitting, bedding and the non-woven sector’, says Daniel Isbecque. ‘We have to carry large stocks of many types of wool and origins. Some of our customers rely on us to deliver wool to them in very large quantities and sometimes at very short notice. Without carrying stock and owning a scouring plant we would not be unable to offer the level of service our customers have come to expect, a reliable service and delivery on time. ‘

Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720 daniel@curtiswool.co.uk tim@curtiswool.co.uk martin@curtiswool.co.uk simon@curtiswool.co.uk wools@curtiswool.co.uk

www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk

British Wool Sales 2014/15

Suppliers of the worlds premier wools

Wool Scourers & Exporters of all types of British, New Zealand, Norwegian, Real Shetland and all other origin Wools. Speciality Topmaker.

Suppliers of all types of shrink resist wool and tops.

UNITED KINGDOM

PROGRESSIVE ENVIRONMENTAL WOOL SCOURING

E PROMOTING WOOL FOR THE BENEFIT OF ALL

C

urtis Wool Direct and partner Nortura have been staunch supporters of the Campaign for Wool since it was formed 5 years ago. ‘We have also been working with Angela Wright, artist in wool, for several years now, and her works have travelled the world in celebration of the Campaign for Wool’. One particular work, made from wool grown in 40 countries, and processed at Haworth Scouring Company, has travelled the world and put on display in London, Sydney, Shanghai and Seoul.’, says Martin Curtis. ‘I am fortunate to be on the Council for the Campaign for Wool, patron His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales and I am very pleased to be a part of the activities organised by our Council.’

This wool hanging combines the two hanks of yarn produced from wool given by CWD: the original hank used in the first wool installation in “Wallspace” 2009 and the ‘40 countries’ wool hank used in the London, Sydney, Shanghai, Seoul exhibitions. This was on display at the Southwark Cathedral, London Bridge for several months earlier this year.

Curtis Wool Direct Limited, your one stop shop for wool and tops. tim@curtiswool.co.uk; daniel@curtiswool.co.uk

56 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

nvironmental promotion and product certification are main priorities for Haworth Scouring Company (HSC) and Haworth Combing Company (HCC) commented David Gisbourne, managing director. Both businesses operate with ISO9001:2008 QMS and ISO14001:2004 EMS in addition to being Soil Association and ENCO certified. They are among a small number of innovative wool processing companies actively investing for growth and improved process sustainability.

‘We want the processing of our wool products to have the highest environmental credentials and recent investments in both wool combing and scouring water management have led to significant increases in capacity which have further reduced the environmental impact of the business’, says Mr Gisbourne.

The benefits achieved can be passed on to our customers and through to retailers by way of ENCO certification which benchmarks the processing methods and shows that wools from HSC and HCC have been processed under some of the most environmentally responsible conditions possible.

With a scouring capacity in excess of 1,000,000Kg per week product, quality remains

David Gisbourne

at the forefront. With further significant investments planned in both scouring and combing, the business is looking to the future with confidence and will operate one of the most environmentally friendly businesses of its kind in the world, and at the same time ensuring the best possible product quality for our customers.

Haworth Scouring is open for business and is equipped to scour wool from any origin. If you want to process your wool under the highest environmental standards and achieve the very best quality available in the industry at highly competitive prices, please contact David Gisbourne at Haworth Scouring Co. Tel + 44 (0) 1274 846 500, Email: davidg@haworthscouring.co.uk

UNITED KINGDOM

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT LABORATORY LEADS THE WAY IN TESTING SERVICES

A

ground swell in environmental concern and awareness is sweeping all sectors of the manufacturing industry and the global textile industry is no exception. It is taking responsibility for the sustainability of its supply chains and demanding greater services in product testing and analysis to ensure wool processing is as environmentally friendly as possible.

ENco offers an independent global testing service and consultancy throughout the raw wool supply chain from the most basic physical analysis to complex chemical investigations.

The ENco laboratory works closely with wool and allied fibre textile industries including manufacturers of raw wool, scourers, yarn spinners, yarn and loose fibre dyers, carpet manufacturers, fabric finishers and textile and carpet retailers.

I met with Dr Mike Madden head scientist at ENco to find out what ENco can offer to wool processors and textile manufacturers around the world.

‘The future of the wool textile industry around the world is inextricably linked to traceability of good environmental practices from the farm gate to the retail floor.

Wool processors that can provide proof of their environmental credentials will always be ahead of their competition. At ENco we can assist wool and textile companies to obtain

By: Victor Chesky

the necessary certifications for a variety of environmental consultancy services. We can do that quickly and professionally’, says Dr Madden. ‘An increasing number of companies at the retail end now demand environmental accreditation from suppliers. Obtaining the necessary accreditation is a must in today’s competitive world’.

‘Our work is based on more than two decade’s experience of solving cost, production and legislative issues with a full appreciation of the commercial realities faced by manufacturing companies in the textile and other industries. We offer a wide range of services to our customers. We analyse and report on testing of effluents and emissions for IPPC permits’, says Dr Madden. ‘We also provide certification for mothproofing application, control and management in effluent, and environmentally friendly inspection in carpet yarn scouring and finishing, fibre, and yarn and fabric finishing’.

ENco also offers testing of fibres and blends, in terms of microns, length, colour and wool content.

‘We are very pleased to have been selected as AWI’s analytical supplier of choice for mothproof testing in Europe, in connection with our work on insect resistant and repellent agents. We have also been working with the

HRH Prince Charles with Dr Mike Madden during a visit to ENco laboratory

UK Environment Agency to develop a set of Best Practice rules for mothproofing in wool. We can advise companies about how best to mothproof their products, helping them to use chemicals safely, within the discharge limits set by various environmental bodies. We understand that it is all about satisfying environmental regulations, satisfying customers, and carrying out the process efficiently with no wastage. This is not a greenwash.

This is about adding real value to the business’.

ENco also works closely with the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) and the Confederation of British Wool Textiles. ‘In the past we have contributed to wool Lifecycle Analysis (LCA) and we are available to advise on new LCA work for the Woolmark / IWTO project.’

Other projects on the drawing board at ENco include an alternative end use for solid waste produced in wool scouring. It is important to develop economic and nature friendly use of these solid waste discharges allowing scouring to utilise otherwise effective effluent treatment and realise a higher environmental value.

The drive for sustainability in wool production and processing, in part promoted by HRH Prince Charles, has certainly taken hold’, says Dr Madden. ‘As the retail consumer demands more environmentally friendly products and manufacturing methods the industry is looking to ways of deliver on these demands. At ENco we can assist them in doing so.’

Dr Mike Madden can be contacted at Email info@encoglobal.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 57

UNITED KINGDOM

BRITISH WOOL PLATINUM LABEL THE AUTHENTIC PROOF OF PURE

BRITISH WOOL

The British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) introduced the Platinum Certification consumer label in 2010 after a number of enquiries from the textile industry showed that there was a place for traceable wool products at retail level.

T

he BWMB had always offered a traceable line from auction through the early stage processing and merchants often used this if specific buyers requested it. The move to create the consumer label was instigated by the company Vispring, the luxury wool bed manufacturer who had decided to convert its whole wool usage to British Wools.

“Vispring were aware that British Wool and Shetland Wool had superior resilience to constant pressure - this meant an improved level of recovery was possible in the mattress,” Tim Booth of the BWMB said.

However there was more to their enquiry than just improving the quality. They were looking for a strong consumer story and they felt it was important for them to be able to sustain that story with a guarantee and consumer label.

Tim Booth

58 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

over 20 years and is a British Wool Marketing Board Licensee.

“We originally joined BWMB so that we could use the ‘shepherd’s crook’ mark on our product and advertising, which would tell our customers existing and prospective - that the yarn we were marketing was British from sheep to shop,” said Russ Stanland of Frangipani.

“As luxury bedmakers, Vispring made the decision to use only British fleece wool some years ago. Specifying only Platinum Certified British fleece wool seemed the logical next step. Both our retailers and consumers understand that this is an independent guarantee of quality, and more importantly, confirms the unique British provenance of this important upholstery filling material. It also supports the growing sentiment among our consumers that it is good to “Buy British” whenever possible,” explained Chris Harrison, Operations Director, Vispring Ltd., Plymouth.

Other companies have also followed this path, most interestingly is the small UK knitting yarn manufacturer Frangipani. It has been supplying 5-ply Guernsey yarn to hand knitters for

Although Frangipani found that it was quite adequate, informing their customers of the yarn’s authenticity; it did not however give them the full guarantee of a 100% British Wool product. The advent of the Platinum Crook mark offered them a better provenance for their yarn.

So what exactly is British Wool Platinum and how do you obtain it? It is a process that enables each stage from auction through scouring and spinning to be signed off - the wool trail is effectively audited to ensure that the wool the merchant buys for their customer is certificated throughout the pre-manufacturing journey.

A wool customer has to request from his merchant that he wants Platinum Certification and the process then begins at auction when the merchant secures the wool.

UNITED KINGDOM

So, once Frangipani had everything in place to provide the necessary traceability, British Wool awarded them the ‘Platinum label.

“One of the big benefits of being awarded this logo is customer confidence in the product being 100% British in all aspects. Overseas customers both retail and wholesale find it particularly attractive and will use it in their marketing.”

“From a personal point of view it increases our confidence in the “Britishness” of our product knowing that should it’s authenticity be challenged at any time, we can provide the necessary proof of traceability. It is a unique accolade in the industry which cannot be purchased but has to be awarded when all conditions have been fulfilled”, Stanland concluded.

chromaposterportrait

9/12/13

13:24

Recent data following industry tests done to IWTO standards show that 100% British Wool performs better through early stage processing. This is a critical piece of data as the early stage journey is an arduous one for all wool and this result is a great indicator for ongoing performance during manufacturing processes and importantly in the finished product.

Page 1

BWMB will soon introduce a new Gold

Vispring use only British fleece wool in its bedding

label - aimed at the carpet industry - to give them a label for a minimum 80% usage of British Wool within the blend of the wool portion.

“Our aim is to support the industry and users of British Wool, this level of scrutiny is not necessary for all products but it can be a brilliant asset for quality control and marketing if the product demands it,” Booth said.

ADDS COLLECTION OF SIXTY CONTEMPORARY STYLENEW SHADES

C

hromatone is a premier international colour reference system used by the carpet and rug industry. It is used by over 1365 companies in 68 countries worldwide.

Since 1988, the 6 digit Chromatone numbering system has allowed colour to be instantly and accurately communicated between clients and also provides an excellent colour bank for use in product development. It now has an extensive colour bank of 2151 individual shades which are packaged to suit all markets and budgets.

‘All Chromatone collections are produced from 100% NZ wool because we believe this to be the best fibre to display colour. However, the system is not wool specific as other substrates can be accurately matched to the required Chromatone colour using a

close arrangement we have with major dyestuff suppliers’, says Ian Robertson Managing Director, Chromatone.

Chromatone has the expertise to design, develop and produce custom made colour collections using either yarn provided in any fibre by the customer or alternatively we are pleased to make our stock supported colourbank available for this purpose.

The latest addition to the Chromatone family is the Contemporary Style which was introduced in January 2014.

‘These colours have been inspired by ‘nature’s alluring elements’’, says Mr Robertson ‘and is a striking collection of sixty new Chromatone shades which reflects the colours found in botanic gardens, fruit orchards, rocky

outcrops and in the countryside.

These add a more muted tone in the Chromatone collection with blush shades and mauve hues being strongly featured.’ The collection of 60 shades is housed in the standard format of a pom box which ensures complete compatibility with the other seven existing Intermediate Chromatone Collections.

‘The collection is dedicated to former colleague, John Snowden who worked at Chromatone for many years and sadly died last year after a short illness before he could see the launch of the final product’, concludes Mr Robertson.

Chromatone Colour Reference System - can be viewed on www.carpet-color.com.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 59

UNITED KINGDOM

Albert Chippendale with shrink proof tops in high demand by the knitting sector

SHRINKPROOF WOOL TREATMENT FROM UK COMMISSION PROCESSOR ‘We are always looking for ways to innovate our processing. Our process allows clients to receive the right wool handle, right colour, and good washability properties according to specific requirements. And as a commission scourer we look after the clients consignment from start to finish’, says Mr Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB), who has been processing wool for over 25 years.

S

PB provides a service in shrink resistant wool processing for topmakers and spinners. The company is totally independent. It is not aligned or linked to any wool company.

‘There are not that many commission wool processors left in Europe’, says Mr Chippendale ‘We have modern facilities and years of experience in processing all types of wool. When you process with Speciality Processors

60 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Bradford your wool is in very safe hands’, ‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK and can offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’. SPB also complies with Woolmark specifications for washable wool. According to Mr

Chippendale manufacturers that offer natural products that perform better and that are also environmentally friendly will always be one step ahead of their competition. SPB processes wool for a number of bedding product manufacturers that carry the Green Label.

The company is in close proximity to Europe, a convenience enjoyed by customers that require quick delivery without a compromise in quality. It

UNITED KINGDOM

provides this service for quantities both big and small, from 500kg to 100 tonnes.

‘Our location allows for a quick response time, especially for European customers, and we pride ourselves in offering a flexible service and still delivering orders within days’, says Mr Chippendale. ‘We are quick and highly cost competitive compared with China or India where there are long delays in terms of delivery. When a knitwear manufacturer needs to respond to current market trends quickly, a short lead time is very important’.

Traditional markets for SPB products in knitwear include the UK, Western Europe, Scandinavia and North America.

‘We treat wool for hand knitting as well as for high performance apparel such as ski wear. Hand knitting has enjoyed something of a resurgence in America and this is an area of wool treatment that we are expert in, shrink proofing and getting rid of the itch factor’.

There are many benefits to SPB’s treated wool and the processing is constantly monitored to the highest standards.

It gives the manufacturer and consumer alike, maximum added value at minimal cost.

A

finished product made from shrink resistant wool offers a superior quality appreciated by retailers and this is why it is consistently used and preferred by spinners and weavers. The finished product will offer easy washing and no felting.

SPB is the first company in the UK to be approved under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant. ‘We have high standards and for us each customer and each individual order is special and we follow instructions to the letter’, says Albert Chippendale For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 61

UNITED KINGDOM

RIGHT: Paul Hughes senior and Paul Hughes junior FAR RIGHT: Andrew Jones (left) Wool Buyer and Richard Moore Senior Trader

STANDARD WOOL GROUP MAKING INVESTMENTS FOR THE FUTURE

‘Standard Wool UK group is well diversified in wool, we boast value adding wool scouring and combing activities around the globe, combining excellent wool supply links giving Standard Wool the edge when offering our quality products worldwide.’ Says Paul Hughes Snr, Group Managing Director.

F

rom speciality wools and stock standard blends to unique bespoke mixtures, Standard Wool UK converts greasy wool into a variety of clean and consistent finished products to match customer requirements. ‘Our sales team make it their business to ensure products are delivered on time, and that the

convenience which comes from using

carpet spinners around the world.

our own scouring facilities translates

We process our own blends and also

into genuine flexibility in delivery and

export

turnaround times’ says Paul Hughes

Tops predominately for the knitting

Senior, Group Managing Director at

industry from our processing plant

Standard Wool UK. ‘We can source

in Chile’, says Mr Hughes. ‘We are

greasy wool from all over the world.

continuously improving our service,

Whether your need is for a few bales or

and we are investing for the future.’

full containers, we can deliver to your requirements’.

Standard

STANDARD WOOL 62 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Wool

origin

combed

Punta

As a family run business Standard Wool

Group

our

is

able

to

operate

freely

operates

without the usual restraints that

Standard Wool UK, Thomas Chadwick

some corporate businesses face, this

processors, Standard Wool Chile, and

allows the company flexibility and

Standard Wool New Zealand. ‘We

quick decision making, whichbenefits

supply carpet wools of all origins, to

their client base. ‘Standard Wool is a

STANDARD WOOL WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS FOLLOW. WITH OVER 200 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE, STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY AND SERVICING MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES WORLD WIDE, IT’S NOT SURPRISING MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE TURNING TO US FOR ALL THEIR WOOL REQUIREMENTS. WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK

STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600

STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182

PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL

UNITED KINGDOM

fascinating business and one which I find very exciting, as a young Trader in this industry I look forward to the future, not only investing in Wool and Machinery but also in young bright and ambitious people’ Says Paul Hughes Jnr Wool Trader at Standard Wool.

as areliable partner for our customers

which British, Chilean greasy, scoured

worldwide. Our senior trading base

wool and wools of other origins are

is complemented by a young, bright,

traded.

Standard Wool UKis focused on employing a new and younger management team. ‘Passion is a prerequisite’, says Paul Hughes snr.

‘We are training for the future. We have been in the business for many years and employ more than 140 people.

And we continue to be competitiveand

enthusiastic and passionate trading team’, says Paul Hughes.

According to Mr Hughes the company is committed to keeping traditional

Standard Wool UK remains one of

values at the heart of its decision

the biggest buyers of British wool at

making. It is also committed to

auctions operated by the British Wool

sourcing, processing and supplying

Marketing Board last season.

superior

It

provides

a

consistent,

reliable

supply to the European carpet trade as

quality

wools

and

by-

products, including the company’s latest organically produced UK blends.

well as supplying scoured and greasy

Paul Hughes Jnr pshughes@standard-

wool of all origins, top making wools,

wool.co.uk

and noils to the Far East. It also has

ajones@standard-wool.co.uk Tel. + 44

an office in Nanjing, China through

1274756600

or Andrew Jones at

for BRITISH WOOL PROCESSING BRIGHT FUTURE

‘Our scoured product is bright and so too is the future of British processing’, says Mark Andrews, General Manager of Thomas Chadwick & Sons ‘after it acquired the freehold property in Dewsbury.

A

ccording to Mr Andrews, the acquisition of this freehold property provides the company with a solid foundation from which it will continue to invest. ‘The investment is testimony to Standard Wool Group’s commitment to the British wool market and demonstrates the support of our funders who believe in the future of the business. We count some of the industry’s leading wool merchants as customers. As a commission processing plant we do not own or trade in wool.’

The company processes greasy wool,

64 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

predominantly for the carpet industry, and finer wools for the apparel sector.

Recently the company installed the latest de-dusting machinery that has resulted in even cleaner and whiter wool. ‘As more and more of the wool that we process is used for bedding and futon manufactures worldwide quality, and environmental credentials are of the utmost importance in our processing’, says Mr Andrews.

The company history goes back as far as 1864 with the first wool scouring line being installed in 1948. Today it is run by Matthew Andrews and

UNITED KINGDOM

Bright, white wool processed and ready for delivery

Mark Andrews, who each have over 20 years’ experience at Thomas Chadwick & Sons. Mark qualified in environmental management studies and oversees an established and skilled workforce ensuring scoured product of the highest quality.

the requirements of both the raw product being scoured

The plant is situated in the traditional woollen centre of Dewesbury, West Yorkshire. It runs two 2 metre Andar woolscours which gives us flexibility in meeting our client’s needs. The scours are specifically designed with large capacity bowls to ensure excellent scouring performance producing high quality bright fibre with very low residuals.

We employ strict processes and policies ensuring customer

‘We believe we have an edge over the competition in supplying clean fibre whilst retaining fibre style and structure as verified by customer feedback’, says Mr Andrews. ‘All wash water we use at the plant is soft fresh pure well water ideal for ensuring a clean efficient wash but also maintaining the natural structure and characteristics of the fibre - unlike some other woolscours which continuously recycle the same water. The weakness of such systems is caused by the build-up of ammonia and other contaminants which affect the final product in terms of odour and cleanliness’.

forefront in terms of environmental standards. At Thomas

Both woolscours are fully computerised, enabling instant control and the capability to adjust the process to match

and its intended final use.

‘The investment in Thomas Chadwick is testament to our confidence in our ability to process to the highest standards. requirements are always met.’

Thomas Chadwick was the first UK scour to adopt the ISO9001:2008

Quality

Management

accreditation

in

Wool Processing as well as ISO14001:2004 Environmental Management accreditation. ‘We aim to remain at the Chadwick we are licensed to scour Organic Wool and our experience and the results enjoyed by our customers are proof of our ongoing ability to meet contract requirements‘.

As a commission wool scouring operation we welcome enquiries from wool merchants who want to scour their wool here in the UK. We offer excellent quality, competitive costs, and quick delivery to all parts of world, concludes Mr Andrews.

For more information please contact Mark Andrews at mark.andrews@standard-wool.co.uk WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 65

UNITED KINGDOM

Left: Andrew Price (Managing Director), Right: Catia Marchbank (Logistics / Office Manager)

SWAN WOOL EUROPE A PERSONAL TOUCH

F

ibre Knowledge and diversity are the key components to a successful future, and the Swan Group are always on hand to offer their collective technical expertise to their much valued clients. ‘Our product consistency and reliability are the cornerstone of our business,’ explains Andrew Price, Managing Director of Bradford based Swan Wool Europe Limited. ‘We are able to service both large and small clients, whilst still maintaining a personal relationship with each. Wool is the supreme technical fibre, and clients need to be assured they are receiving a product that performs on the machines, and improves yields. First cost is just that, it’s the end cost that matters most and technical expertise is essential.’

‘With our trading centre in Bradford, we are ideally located to further service our European customer base both in proximity and time line. With our sourcing, processing and trading experience we offer a diverse range of products and services. Utilising wools from around the globe, we oversee the whole pipeline to provide quality wools for the Worsted, Woollen and non-Woven sectors.

Our company policies and direction is quite simple – we offer our collective experience, in a timely and professional manner to all of our clients. We strive for quality in product and service, and look to build long term relationships” Mr Price said. “We also take pride in what we do and try to enjoy ourselves along the way, and hope it shows”.

66 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

CHILE

STANDARD WOOL (CHILE) S.A. DEAN SUGDEN GENERAL MANAGER STANDARD WOOL CHILE

PUNTA TOPS FROM STANDARD WOOL CHILE Standard Wool Chile (SWC) has been working with Chilean wool for over 200 years. It has been producing tops in Punta Arenas, in the heart of the Magallanes region of Chile.The company trades in Chilean ‘Punta tops’ and greasy and scoured wool. It is a fully owned subsidiary of Standard Wool UK and is the largest purchaser of the Chilean wool clip.

U

nlike many other top making companies, Standard Wool travel to the ends of the world

to carefully source the best Corriedale and Merino Wool, At the start of every wool season the company takes the time to visit the individual farmers of Patagonia, something that now gets overlooked as more and more buyers buy based on test certificates.

This knowledge then allows Standard Wool

to

make

consistent

blends

from magnificent fleece wool and then expertly delivers this product to spinners in key markets such as Europe, Chile, China, Japan and the USA. The in house technical knowledge which Standard Wool boasts makes sure that the machinery is working efficiently whilst delivering the best Tops, Scoured and by-products possible. ‘We combine traditional

values and a dependable no-nonsense approach with all the technological innovation, operational flexibility and forward-thinking attitudes’, says Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile.’We have the capacity to produce 4 million kgs of tops per year, using modern day equipment, 2.4 meter 6 bowl Andar Scouring line and modern French carding and combing machinery producingtops ranging from 19.5 – 30 microns of snow white colour, with exceptional characteristics in length, strength, soft handle, and low VM. It is especially popular with knitwear manufacturers.

of Chile, buying 60%-70% of the

The Alfa Laval wool grease recovery plant and modern effluent treatment systemhelpto deliver excellent quality wool grease.

to brand new machinery investment

SWC buys wool directly from 450 individual farmers whilst also expanding its reach to other regions

information

annual clip.The original and best Punta Arenas Super Fleeces Top has a soft handle, snow white colour, super strength, low vegetable matter and exceptional length.

Tops and scoured wool meet the OkeoTex Standard 100 – product class 1 and the in house laboratory is Interwoollab accredited which give customers a base assurance that tops meet their exacting standards.

SWC offers 40 kg Bumps, 10 kg bobbins and by the end of 2014 expects to offer clients the option of 10 kg Bumps due of a NSC GC 30 Chain Gill and bump press.

Please contact Dean Sugden for more at

dsugden@standard-

wool.co.uk or Paul Hughes Jnr at pshughes@standard-wool.co.uk WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 67

ARGENTINA

ARGENTINE WOOL EXPORTS Argentine wool production for 2014/2015 has been estimated at 27.7 mil tons. The Argentine wool clip includes a range of 18 - 32 microns. For several year 20 micron wool was the highest volume of wool produced’ says Randolph Charles Davis of Federacion Lanera Argentina (FLA).

‘Last season over 20% of wool prduced was in the 20 micron range. On the stronger end, 28 micron wools held 12%.

RANDOLPH CHARLES DAVIS

U

nlike Australia and New Zealand Argentinean farmers do not sell wool through the auction system. A significant amount of growers sell their wool by private tender. Growers also sell their wool either directly to scouring plants or combing mills, or to wool merchants who may export it as greasy wool or have it scoured or combed on a commission basis. There are a few growers who export their wool directly.

Growing areas comprise the whole territory of Argentina, from the southernmost province of Tierra del Fuego right across to the northwestern Jujuy. Due to the different climatic and land features within this expansion of over 3,000 miles, the wool produced includes from the finest Merinos in Patagonia to the gradually broader types found north-wise.

The finer grades excel because of their whiteness and soft touch, which is a plus with fine worsteds and other 68 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

luxury goods. The broader grades cover an ample specter of products, from hosiery to knitwear, upholstery, carpets, rugs and non-woven goods.

the wool produced within this region –south of 42nd parallel south– is FMD free without vaccination, as stipulated

by O.I.E.

Efficient and modern wool processing facilities are located within the largest wool growing region, Patagonia, where almost 70 percent of the wool is produced. More than 80 percent of the wool grown in Argentina is exported with some industrial process: 78 percent tops, noils and by-products, and 5 percent scoured. Furthermore,

Argentina mainly exports wool top and has resisted exporting untreated wool. Nevertheless exports of greasy wool has been increasing. Today over 20% of the Argentine clip is exported in greasy form. The main export destination for greasy wool and tops is China 30%, Germany 17%, Italy 16%.

Exportaciones de Lana: detalle por Destino (toneladas limpias)

Julio 2013 / Marzo 2014 (9 meses)

Wool exports: destination breakdown (clean tons)

Destino Destination China

China

Alemania

Germany

Italia

Italy

México

Mexico

India

India

Uruguay

Uruguay

Perú

Peru

Turquía

Turkey

Taiwán

Taiwan

Bolivia

Bolivia

Reino Unido

United Kingdom

Chile

Chile

Egipto

Egypt

Bangladesh

Bangladesh

Canadá

Canada

Rumania

Romania

Ecuador

Ecuador

República Checa

Chzech Republic

Bulgaria

Bulgaria

España

Spain

Japón

Japan

Lituania

Lithuania

Marruecos

Morocco

Brasil

Brazil

Sudáfrica

South Africa

Tailandia

Thailand

Corea del Sur

South Korea

Colombia

Colombia

Bélgica

Belgium

Estados Unidos

United States

Total Participación Ingresos (u$s)

Total Share Incomes (USD)

July 2013 / March 2014 (9 months)

Sucia Greasy

Lavada Scoured

2319,7 768,9

582,0 757,4

9,1

627,7 165,9 89,4 39,0 434,3

19,0 4,8 19,8 190,2

165,3

Peinada Tops

1395,2 2092,6 2390,1 1011,5

756,5 689,1 475,3 108,3 236,9 19,0 143,9

71,5

Subproductos By-products

Blousse Noils

489,1 26,2 229,2 10,9

50,3 1,7 42,9 30,5 10,5

Hilados

Tejidos

Totales

Yarns

Fabrics

Totals

20,26

14,6 316,7 10,7

2,6

67,6 129,4 100,4

11,4

102,6

31,7

79,6 63,5 52,6

14,1 24,9 58,3

49,3 23,5

18,4

4,95

42,2 40,2 39,9 19,7

2,1

3,0

14,1 4705,1

1771,2

0,8 9895,7

1294,3

141,4

25,2

0,0

26,38%

9,93%

55,49%

7,26%

0,79%

0,14%

0,00%

31.339.810,9

9.937.448,1

89.494.720,0

5.235.919,4

209.419,5

201.352,3

0,0

Particip.

Share

4882,1 3055,3 2771,8 1091,9 1026,7 757,4 756,5 722,8 480,1 336,5 320,8 236,9 184,3 143,9 139,2 129,4 111,8 102,6 93,7 88,4 84,3 58,3 49,3 46,9 42,2 40,2 39,9 24,8 14,1 0,8 17832,8

27,38% 17,13% 15,54% 6,12% 5,76% 4,25% 4,24% 4,05% 2,69% 1,89% 1,80% 1,33% 1,03% 0,81% 0,78% 0,73% 0,63% 0,58% 0,53% 0,50% 0,47% 0,33% 0,28% 0,26% 0,24% 0,23% 0,22% 0,14% 0,08% 0,00%

136.418.670,2

Destinos y Productos combinados Destinations and Products combo 01-Sucia 02-Lavada 04-Peinada 07-Blousse 08-Subproductos

ARGENTINA

LEMPRIERE ARGENTINA FOCUSES ON WOOL FROM PATAGONIA

‘A main destination for our greasy merino wool is China’, says Claudio Ulrich Managing Director at Lempriere Argentina. ‘We remain committing to sourcing our wool exclusively from the Patagonia region as this region is known for its better quality and contamination free’.

M

ore than 80% of wool grown in Argentina is exported. China has been a dominant buyer in the last couple of years purchasing over 30%, followed

by Germany and Italy.

‘Wool purchasing in Argentina is exclusively a private practice. There is no auction system and as such it is extremely important that buyers develop a close working relationship with wool growers on a daily basis’, says Mariano Guerra, Lempriere wool buyer and trader.

Although all greasy wool is sorted at the farm, Lempriere trained staff sort the wool again after purchase as it arrives at their warehouse. This further sorting provides extra assurance that quality is maintained and client gets exactly what was ordered comments Pedro Ticines, Lempriere wool buyer and trader.

‘We must have good access to farmers to access the right wool. We know the farm and the farmers. We know what wool is available and at what quality, and when. This is of direct benefit to our customers’, states Claudio Ulrich, CEO. Lempriere Argentina was established in 2003. The location was chosen for its importance as a wool producing country with great potential. ‘Our expertise in the Patagonia area extends for over 35 years’, says Mr Ulrich.

‘This is the home of some of the best

quality wools and our main objective has been to link our business in this region to our global network of offices.

For many years we have enjoyed a solid reputation as a greasy wool exporter and our main concern is to keep up this reputation. In addition, we source scoured wool and tops so that we can adapt to market requirement.’

‘Argentina clip range extends from 18mic to 29mic. In merino the bulk is between 19,5-20,5mic while for crossbreds it is 26,8 to 28,8 mic. Our best type fleece wool is ‘GTStyle’ and stands for ‘Good Topmaking’, best quality fleece, carefully selected for the required micron’, says Mr Ulrich. ‘We can also provide second fleece types, called GA. Other shorter types such as blends and cardings are also available.

We are developing all types to the China market with positive feedback’.

all aspects concerning adequate preparation of wool and shearing techniques in order to deliver wool properly prepared and packed, with no contamination and properly sorted at origin.

‘In addition, intensive re-sorting takes place in our own warehouse. This ensures our own best future business practice and guarantees the quality of the wool we deliver’, says Mr Ulrich.

For more information about buying wool from Lempriere Argentina please contact Mariano Guerra at E: mfguerra@lflsa.com.ar (+ 54911) 5793 1108 Pedro Ticinese at E: pticinese@lflsa.com.ar (+54911) 5793 1124

Mariano Guerra, Claudio Ulrich and Pedro Ticinese

Mr Ulrich points to extend the promotion of Argentine wool, supported by national policies such as “Prolana”, which established improvement programs for wool sorting at farms.

The “Prolana” program that has been operating since 1994 and deals with

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 69

JAPAN

OPENING JAPAN’S DOORS

TO INTERNATIONAL NATURAL FIBRE PRODUCERS

Economically Japan is one of the most highly developed nations in the world. Manufacturing is one of Japan’s strengths and with few natural resources many companies import raw materials and turn them into high end products for both domestic and export consumption. Argo International is one such company.

W

e see our company as a gateway for wool and speciality fibre companies from outside Japan to establish connections with Japanese manufacturers’, says Toshiaki Ogura Chairman of Argo International. ‘We work closely with manufacturers of the finest fabrics, manufacturers of industrial textiles, bedding manufacturers, and manufacturers in the cosmetic and chemical industries.

QUALITY NEVER GOES OUT OF FASHION

The company is well known for its innovative use of wool and speciality fibre of the finest quality. It offers fabric manufacturers innovative use of natural fibres including Vicuna, Alpaca, Mohair, Wool, Silk, Cotton and Linen and other speciality fibres.

Toshiaki Ogura, known throughout the textile world simply as ‘Aki’, has been in the textile business for some 35 years and served as President of the International Alpaca Association for six years and has been an Executive Member of the International Mohair Association for eight years.

Last year Mr Ogura welcomed his son, Yohei Ogura into the company as a director. ‘Yohei brings with him business experience working at an international level with a major Japanese communications company.

INNOVATION • CREATIVITY QUALITY • INTEGRITY ARGO INTERNATIONAL INC.

5-13-1 Oshizawadai, Kasugai City Aichi 487-0005, JAPAN Tel: + 81 568 92 8155 • Fax + 81 568 92 8019 Email: office@argo-int.jp • aki@argo-int.jp

70 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

According to Yohei Ogura the company strength lies in its ability to be at the forefront of innovation. ‘At present we are the only supplier of melted amino acid for various natural fibres in various fields. We are now engaged in a special study with several universities in Japan in the use of natural fibres for use as artificial blood vessel. And recently, in cooperation with the Thai Government we have been discussing ways in which to produce and export Cassava Silk’, says Mr Ogura.

JAPAN

JAPAN - IMPORTANT MARKET FOR APPAREL After a series of economic setbacks, the consumption of fashion and luxury goods is stable, and Japan still represents one of the top three markets for woollen products. Woollen products of quality continue to be attractive based on population, climate and affluence.

Toshiaki Ogura, President at Argo International with his son Yohei Ogura

Mr Ogura is also a very strong advocate for traceability of fibre and stemming the tide of misleading labeling.

According to Mr Ogura it is often difficult to know what is a 100% natural product and what is imitation because labeling is confusing and misleading and purchasers do not always know what they are buying.

‘It seems that today everyone is blending their fibre and the result is an inferior product of poorer quality’, says Mr Ogura. To know where to source the best fibre in the world and to know where to spin it and weave it, is as important today as it was 30 years ago. The consumer is willing to pay extra for natural, quality products. ’At Argo International we provide traceability from suppliers in South Africa, Australia Europe and South America. To us at Argo business is still creative work, undertaken by an artist with a passion for innovation and the love of natural fibre. The unique qualities can only come from these natural fibres, they cannot be imitated by manmade fibres without the result being an inferior product’.

‘Our job is to seek the best use for each fibre, and to invent and bring to the attention of Japanese manufactures such innovative concepts and to inspire them to manufacture beautiful fabric’, says Mr Ogura. ‘If you have an innovative product using natural fibres we can open doors for you to the biggest manufacturers in Japan’.

Aki Ogura can be contacted at aki@argo-int.jp or office@argo-int.jp

According to the trade statistics released by the Ministry of Finance Japan imported 849.785 billion yen of textile yarn and fabrics in 2013, registering an increase of 19% year-on-year. Imports of clothing and accessories by Japan during the same period were valued at 3.247 trillion yen, showing an increase of 21.1 % year-on-year, the data showed.

The increase in imports of both textile yarn and fabrics as well as clothing and accessories was greater than the 15% year-on-year rise shown in overall imports made by Japan during JanuaryDecember 2013 period.

Japan’s textile yarn and fabric imports from the US during the 12-month period were worth 21.702 billion yen, up 14.7 % year-on-year; while those from the EU grew by 22.4% year-on-year to 62.142 billion yen; and from Asia by 18.8% year-on-year to 747.151 billion yen.

China accounted for 493.429 billion yen worth of textile yarn and fabric imports made by Japan, while the Asean region contributed 144.016 billion yen, and the Middle East region 5.241 billion yen.

Japan’s clothing and accessories imports from the US climbed 21.8% year-on-year to 19.667 billion, whereas imports from the EU jumped 25.3% yearon-year to 154.046 billion yen and from Asia by 20.9% year-on-year to 3.037 trillion yen.

China accounted for the largest share of 2.423 trillion yen worth of apparel and accessories imported by Japan, showing a growth of 17.2% year-on-year, whereas the Asean region supplied 496.079 billion yen worth of products, registering a surge of 41 % year-on-year.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 71

NEW ZEALAND

Nigel Hales (left) and Tony Cunningham examine wool from Topmaster scouring line- where the lower level of fibre residue is achieved

Chrystal white wool from Cavalier Woolscourers - in demand around the world

THE CLEANEST SCOURED WOOL

ON THE PLANET

Each day of the week Cavalier Woolscourers wash wool from over 65,000 sheep or 1800 farm bales. The company operates processing plants in Napier and Timaru that process in excess of 100 million kilos of greasy wool and speciality fibres every year. Both plants run ANDAR processing lines and are located close to main port facilities for cost effective logistics. Cavalier washes carpet wool, merino wool and speciality fibre including alpaca, mohair and black wool and accepts quantities as small as just one bale.

W

e provide the right ‘recipe’ for each and every customer’, says Tony Cunningham, newly appointed Chief Operating Officer from the company head office in Napier. ‘We offer a tailored wool processing service that is extremely cost competitive. We are the only New Zealand wool scouring company that has been specifically set up with ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards.

Mr Cunningham points out that the company does not trade wool on its own account. It is a standalone commission wool scourer and therefore has no conflict of interest 72 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

with any customers.

Scouring machinery at both plants can process from coarser to finer wools, from merino to drysdale. ‘We wash wool to a very high standard’, says Mr Cunningham. ‘Evidence of this is measurable. Very low residuals are left on the wool, and we have the ability to lift the Y value 1 full unit without chemical additions’.

According to Mr Hales CEO, ‘greasy wool supplied with a Base Y value of 64.0 will typically measure at Base Y 65.0 or higher after washing, without artificial whiteners. We can achieve a maximum yield through our careful processing and our pre-scour treatment results in less entanglement

of the finished product, less felting, and subsequently we achieve a higher percentage of product, better suitable for the market’.

Cavalier’s scouring plants operates unique state of the art computer controlled greasy blending systems.

These systems include multiple greasy wool openers which individually cope for each style and length of wool.

These enable the company to reduce the effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%.

The company offers all traditional scouring

services

such

as

individualized bale branding/marking options, Nylon woolpacks, Red, Blue

NEW ZEALAND

State of the art computer controlled greasy blending systems reduce effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%

or Green bands, bale weights to meet specific mill requirements, and “ICE” pure white wool option. ‘We also lead the way with World Best Practices for

environmental issues such as low water usage, energy usage and recycling. All wash water is fresh pure natural water from artesian ground wells onsite, not recycled water that has been stripped with copious amounts of acid and polymers or that has previously been through someone’s kidneys!’, comments Mr Cunningham.

‘We are also a strong supporter of the

The company is accredited with ISO 9001, Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for “100% Organic Scoured New Zealand Wool” also Environmental Choice which links to the worldwide Green Building standards, Asure Quality Organic, Bio Grow NZ Organic, Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries (MAF) transition facility and more.

‘We rate ourselves as the most quality conscious commission scouring company in the world and have the certificates to prove it!’, says Mr Hales.

Exporters that wash their wool with

Campaign for Wool. We are totally focused on continuous improvement and new scouring technology, not only to continually operate at world’s best practice levels but to ensure that the quality of the wool we wash for our customers is and remains measurably the best in the world’.

Cavalier have many good reason to do so’, says Mr Hales. ‘Cleaner wool with minimal residual content and quick turnaround times is only part of what we have to offer processors and exporters’.

Nigel Hales and Tony Cunningham can be contacted by email nigel@hbws.co.nz or tonyc@ctyscour.co.nz www.cavalierwoolscourers.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND WOOL GREASE NOW AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FROM PROCESSORS

N

ew Zealand wool grease can now be purchased direct from the Cavalier Woolscourers scouring plants.

Cavalier Woolscourers is the largest processor of New Zealand wool and the biggest producer and exporter of New Zealand wool grease.

‘Our wool grease is lighter in colour for crossbred wool grease. It is very low in volatiles (moisture) and high in Cholesterol. We produce it all year round’, says Nigel Hales, CEO Cavalier Woolscourers, ‘as a co-product of woolscouring.

Our modern and custom made woolscouring machinery and the types of wool being scoured influence the quality of wool grease produced. Most New Zealand wool grease comes from crossbred sheep. However, a modest quantity

74 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

of premium merino wool grease is also available annually’.

Centrifugal

wool

grease

often

New Zealand Wool grease has many uses and is supplied to customers for the manufacture of lanolin, wool wax alcohols (lanolin alcohols), wool wax acids (lanolin acids), lanolin derivatives, wool wax alcohol derivatives, and wool wax acid derivatives.

best quality, especially if it is passed

The wool grease is recovered by centrifuging aqueous scouring liquors from the washing of greasy wool with detergents, often called centrifugal wool grease. Chemically speaking it is a complex mixture of wax esters of long chain fatty acids and alcohols, the latter including cholesterol, lanosterol and dihydrolanosterol. New Zealand wool grease contains 12-15% by mass of cholesterol (largely in the form of esters).

centrifugal wool grease and is

considered by buyers to be of the through 2 or more centrifuging steps. All Cavalier wool grease is centrifuged through a complex three stage process making it extremely clean and consistent in quality.

New Zealand wool grease is all purified during a secondary or tertiary Most

centrifuging of

New

process.

Zealand’s

wool

grease is exported to overseas users. Wool grease can now be purchased directly from Cavalier Woolscourers Ltd. For

more

information

please

contact Nigel Hales by email at nigel@hbws.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND

RIGHT: Craig Smith with Japanese delegation BELOW: Craig Smith, HDNZ, with HRH The Prince of Wales.

H. DAWSON NZ TELLS A STORY

C

raig Smith was the New Zealand representative for the NZ Campaign for Wool Trust at a recent promotion held at Clarence House London. ‘At H. Dawson we are on the same wave length as HRH Prince Charles who is the Patron for this global initiative,’ says Mr Smith Business Development Director at H. Dawson New Zealand.

‘The whole issue of sustainability in the wool industry is starting to hit home’, says Mr Smith. ‘Major global players including China, home to the biggest national sheep flock in the world are taking note. Four generations in the wool industry and a personal drive to put buyers and users in touch with the origins of their wool is an investment in time we are will to make. The biggest issues are going to be supply and there is definitely a demand for wool with this story.

H. Dawson, actively involved in the promotion of wool is also involved in “farm to Shop” deals. The story of sustainability is intrinsically intertwined with such initiatives as linking farmer to end-user.

‘Our customers come to us because they need a consistent supply of wool with a dedicated service that is

tailored for their individual needs and requirements, ‘ says Mr Smith.

H. Dawson works closely with manufacturers that utilise their wool to assist them to improve their product to in turn achieve greater sales. ‘We advise our customers in how to select the best wool for manufacturing their specific product. The wool that, when processed, will give them the best result within their budget.

‘Last year we hosted two Japanese customers on an educational tour of New Zealand and showed them where the wool had come from and the process it went through before arriving in Japan. This was the first opportunity they had to meet faceto-face with growers of their wool’, says Mr Smith. ‘This meeting has given the Japanese visitors a greater appreciation of how the wool is grown and the New Zealand farmers have a greater appreciation of how the characteristics of our wool can affect the final product.

H. Dawson then took New Zealand farmers from the Awatere Valley to visit the worsted spinning process at the Japanese factory. They were told their wool outperformed other suppliers by producing the best bulk

and colour characteristics, allowing for a greater colour palette in yarns and softer handling for hand knitting.

‘Our Japanese clients found that the wool from the Awatere Valley farmers is softer to handle and its consistent even bulk allowed hand-knitted garments to be lighter. We were able to fulfill their criteria to achieve a more consistent product that would tell a better story’.

‘These visits were essential to connect farmers to the market and the market to farming. And this is what we are all about at H. Dawson, connecting customers with the best possible wool solution.

H. Dawson New Zealand has a global presence and is a part of H. Dawson that has offices internationally and sources wool from 35 countries worldwide. ‘We actively look for opportunities throughout the entire wool pipeline, from field to fleece and beyond. We don’t limit ourselves to being ‘just a wool supplier’ because we are successful in so many other areas of the wool industry. We embrace challenges and our reputation for being innovative and creative drives us forward every day,’ concludes Mr Smith.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 75

New Zealand Wool Services International Limited 30 Sir William Pickering Drive, PO Box 29 383 Christchurch, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 357 8700 • Fax: +64 3 357 8720 • Email: marketing@woolserv.co.nz

NZSWI India: "Kiwi Hutt" C1530 Sushant Lok-I, Guragon 122002 India Tel: +91 124 6460645 • Fax: +91 124 4105479 • T.C. Bilandani - CEO: +91 981001 7995 • Email: tc@woolservices.com Ruzgarlibace Mah. Acarlar Is Merkezi, F Blok Kat:7 D 17 81640 Kavacik, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90 216 425 31 33 (Pbx) • Fax: 90 216 322 28 79 • Email: mgozne@imisk.com.tr

NEW ZEALAND

Left to right: Liang Jun, Malcolm Ching, John Dawson, Michael Dwyer, Paul Steel

WSI STRENGTHENS ITS POSITION By: Victor Chesky

New Zealand Wool Services International (WSI) processes over 40% of the New Zealand wool clip. Firmly established as New Zealand’s largest wool exporter, WSI has an annual turnover of approximately NZD 200 million and operates two scoring plant, one in the North Island and one in the South Island.Last year it was acquired by Australia’s Lempriere Group. This year NZWSI acquired JS Brooksbank, a long established wool export company based in Wellington. I asked Michael Dwyer, CEO of WSI, some months on, how these changes in ownership has influenced company plans going forward.

T

he ownership change has strengthened WSI’s position considerably. The expanded

range

of

resources

now

provides

WSI markets a number of brands including PureLana and Red Band.

What is the strategy behind these labels and how has the market

opportunities to WSI not previously

accepted them?

available to us. Lempriere’s wider

Purelana and Red Band are all about

global interests are bringing new

quality, consistency and reliability.

customers on board and linked us

They are linked to our expanded

to alternative business options both

direct sourcing network taking us

locally and internationally.

right back to individual farms. It’s

78 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

about providing the right products, guaranteed from farm gate to finished product and clients knowing they can rely on the deliveries to meet their expectations year in and year out.

Purelana and Red Band are recognised in China as premium deliveries. Red Band is an easily recognisable brand on the bales and has strong customer support, particularly in India, Iran and Nepal.

NEW ZEALAND

WSI is the largest exporter of New Zealand wool to Turkey, China and India. How important are these countries to the Group? And what initiatives is the company taking in these countries?

‘Combined, these countries account for 57 percent of all wool exported from New Zealand so are critical to our business. WSI has its own offices and employees in China and India and strong agency representation in Turkey. We have had these offices and agencies in place since WSI started business, recognising the importance of these countries to our business.

Our representatives are extremely active, personally contacting clients on a daily basis, supported by market information and constantly updated offers from the New Zealand office.

This is backed up by regular visits by the New Zealand marketing team.

WSI provides technical support to downstream manufacturing and is developing technologies that are designed to support and protect clients supply chain integrity and their finished products.

What was the rationale behind this years’ acquisition of JS Brooksbank?

And how does this fit into the company module?

‘WSI is world renowned for scoured wool deliveries, however had very limited penetration in the greasy wool delivery sector. Approximately 25 percent of all wool exported from New Zealand is exported in the greasy state.

JS Brooksbank has a solid business built around greasy wool exports. The combination of our two independent companies servicing different market requirements brings a balance to our overall business as well as providing wider options to our customers.

The Campaign for Wool has been active in many countries. WSI has been involved in this Campaign.

What are your views on its benefits?

TC Bilandani Manger WSI office Delhi

‘WSI supports the Campaigns endeavours to awaken consumers to the many superior benefits of wool.

Although WSI is not directly involved in the Campaign locally we support it through our extended business activities, promoting it through our advertising and promotional material.

Any efforts to raise awareness of wool are to be applauded. Measuring the direct success of the Campaign will be hard to do and we may not see its effect for several years. It takes time to influence consumers buying habits.

With most of New Zealand’s wool going into floor coverings,the impact on our sector is likely to roll through slowly. Higher fashion areas may well benefit from the Campaign’s activities much sooner.

Are there any future plans that are on the drawing board?

‘WSI is always evolving. We are now working locally with Wools of New Zealand and Merino New Zealand to develop new opportunities for coarse wools in particular. Under an umbrella agreement we are now benefiting from a close relationship between the three companies where we bring our strengths and expertise to the table and work collaboratively to achieve higher returns to the committed wool growers supporting each entity. These

are via local supply arrangements that link into offshore client contracts backed up by eco and quality control aspects. In recent months WSI has expanded its direct sourcing networks through our own efforts and those of our working partners that now accounts for around 25 percent of our wool purchases and growing.

We are exploring new uses and technologies for wool and have the rights for an instantly readable tracer technology for coarse wools from New Zealand, Merino wool worldwide and Australian cotton.

This is now commercially available in NZ scoured wool and for inclusion in Merino processing. More detail on this technology is available on our website www.woolserv.co.nz under the “BRANDS” section’.

Mustafa Gozne WSI representative in Turkey

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 79

NEW ZEALAND

SPECIFIC AND OUT OF SEASON WOOL TYPES OFFERED BY

NZ COMPANY

F

or over 50 years JL Crichton has been exporting New Zealand wool to manufacturers in Europe and the USA. It has developed long term relationships with manufacturers in the non woven and bedding industry. The company is particularly well known for delivering specific wool types including combed slipe and lamb wool.

‘Good climatic conditions combine with the unique characteristics of New Zealand wool make it an attractive fibre for a wide range of products’, says Mr Inkson, Managing Director of JL Crichton from his office in Christchurch New Zealand. ‘New Zealand’s clean green environment and sustainable farming practices produce the whitest, brightest and cleanest wool in the world.’ ‘With the worlds increasing awareness of the benefits of natural fibres for both

80 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Michael Inkson Managing Director (left) and Colin White past Managing Director who retired after more than 40 years in the NZ wool industry

NEW ZEALAND

our health and the environment we

the best wool for each customer’, says

believe our range of wool types are well

Mr Inkson. ‘When you need a special

placed to be marketed into many new

kind of wool to give your product

and existing products’, says Michael

life and colour, you can to talk to us.

Inkson. Some New Zealand wool

We can match the right wool to each

types are ideally suited to upper end

customer specification and we supply

products such as baby products, and

on time and to budget. We are a smaller

sleeping products including bedding

company so all communications are

and blankets.’

very straightforward and orders can be

In addition to supplying specific wool

actioned quickly.

types the bedding industry and the

‘Some specific New Zealand types

non woven industry with New Zealand

can be difficult to get when out of

slipe and lamb wool the company

season. Although we try to always

offers a range of wool types including

accommodate our customers orders it

wools for carpets, hand knitting, wool

would be good for buyers to be aware

spinning, and non woven sector.

that if they require good quality lamb

‘Our expertise and knowledge of New

wool they should put their orders in

Zealand wools means that we can select

earlier. If under contract we can always

store wool for our customers until needed’.

All JL Crichton wool is tested prior to sale, at an accredited testing facility, which provides objective measurements of commercially important characteristics.

The characteristics tested include yield, condition (moisture content), fibre diameter, colour, length, strength, and bulk.

We look forward to continuing our service to existing clients and receiving enquiries from new customers,’ concludes Mr Inkson.

For more information www.crichtonwool.co.nz or wool@crichton.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND OFFICE ADDS ADVANTAGE FOR STANDARD WOOL Standard Wool NZ is the buying arm of Standard Wool UK with its office in Christchurch New Zealand. ‘We buy New Zealand wool for Standard Wool customers worldwide’, says Gary Doherty Managing Director.

S

tandard Wool New Zealand works closely with its head office in the UK to source the best wool for its clients worldwide. ‘We have been exporting wool for over 30 years’, says Mr Doherty. ‘Customers interested in buying New Zealand wool can contact us directly or through our UK office in Bradford.

The company buys at auction and directly from private wool merchants.

It exports scoured, greasy and slipe wool to all processing countries in the world.

It specializes in scoured slipe wool for the carpet and knitting industries as well as greasy and slipe wools for the hand knitting industry. All Standard

STANDARD WOOL (NZ) LIMITED

Wool NZ orders can be tested by either SGS or NZWTA by customer choice.

‘A quicker response time is always a benefit to our customers’, says Mr Doherty. ‘We can service niche markets with clients big and small that require specific types for specific purposes. The NZ wool purchased by a customer will be scoured and shipped within weeks directly from one of NZ ports’.

‘Customers that require specific wool types, and sometimes in smaller volumes, can contact us here in NZ or our office in the UK. We can source to these requirements and deliver very quickly. We can ship three or four different types in one container, greasy or scoured.’

Gary Doherty with scoured wool ready for delivery

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 81

NEW ZEALAND

TRADITIONAL VALUES

JUST AS RELEVANT TODAY

by Victor Chesky

Peter Crone with wooltop from New Zealand merino

I

must confess I have a soft spot for New Zealand wool exporters, probably because New Zealand is where our first magazine was published in 1986. So coming to see Peter Crone at John Marshall & Company in Christchurch is a bit like a trip down memory lane. Although the world around us has changed, John Marshall & Co has retained its old traditional ways.

82 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

‘The industry has advanced in many ways’, says Mr Crone. ‘Technology is improving all the time, science and agri-research and development is a priority and environmental focus from farm gate right up to the retail consumer is taking hold. But the dayto-day relationships we have with our customers is just as relevant today. In this respect nothing has changed’.

‘We are still very much an old fashioned wool company’, says Mr Crone. ‘When our clients ask for a particular type they know that’s what they will get delivered. Our customers count on getting the best delivery from us, consistently. They are getting a product with the parameters they require. Good quality wool, good environmental practices and a reliable service are what we are all about at John Marshall & Co. The company has been supplying the world wool markets since the 1930’s.

It exports crossbred and merino greasy wool, scoured wool and slipe wool, and wool tops and specifically treated wool for the bedding industry to a wide range of end users. It is among the top 10 wool export companies in New Zealand.

John Marshall & Co is well known as one of the few New Zealand exporters that can supply excellent merino wool. ‘Our merino wool comes directly from a selected group of growers situated in the southern region of New Zealand. They all produce wool from the same blood line. These sheep produce high quality merino wool that is particularly well received by all top makers’, says Mr Crone. All

New Zealand wool is naturally very white and free of black fibres, making it easier for manufacturers to produce dense and uniform colour. It is a sustainable fibre, farmed outdoors and naturally long and strong.

A unique spiral crimp built into the wool fibre means wool carpet will retain its looks for longer because it has natural bounce-back abilities.

‘This is why our NZ wool is considered the premium eco-friendly fibre for so many applications.’

About 10% of the wool John Marshall purchases each year is used to produce the company’s high-end Joma Wool.

This specially processed wool is created by crimping the wool, which increases its bulk by 40% to 50% and further enhances its natural resilience.

Each fiber of the wool functions as a miniature spring and the vertical alignment of the fibres and crimp work together to create a cushion under the body that facilitates air circulation.

J. Marshall supplies American, Asian and European bedding manufacturers Joma Wool for use in superior quality mattresses, pillows, and other bedding products.

Peter Crone has been involved in the wool industry since the early 1960s and is a past Chairman of the New Zealand National Council of Wool Exporters. He says, ‘we welcome enquires from wool buyers that are interested in using New Zealand wool’.

For more information please contact Peter Crone at peter@joma.co.nz or info@joma.co.nz

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

NEW ZEALAND

INTERNATIONAL WOOL GROUP RESPONDS TO MARKET SHIFT According to Mr Christensen, the shortage of New Zealand wool available in the coming seasons is a concern. There is very little wool in the pipeline and he believes that sheep numbers are reducing. This is likely to impact on the quantity of wool expected in the near future.

E Jeffrey Losekoot

urope is the second biggest market after China for Fuhrmann and the company directors in New Zealand Peter Christensen and Steve Finnie travel extensively throughout Europe and are experienced in quality and types of wool required by European processors.

‘In today’s environment it is

‘At Fuhrmann we find that direct communication with our customers and being in tune with their changing needs works well’, says Mr Christensen.

earned

important to be able to react quickly

to

changing

market

conditions. Our group operates around the world and it is certainly an advantage for us to be aligned to a group with such a large international network of offices’, says Mr Christensen.

‘Fuhrmann New Zealand has its

reputation

with

buyers in Europe as a quality supplier of New Zealand wools’, says Jeffrey Losekoot, company representative in Europe.

‘We offer all types of New Zealand wool including merino wool, and carding and lambs wool.

‘We

are

in

constant

contact with our customers in Eastern and Western Europe’, says Mr Losekoot. ‘This allows us to source the right wool for the right purpose’.

Mr

Losekoot

is

based

in

Biella Italy and has worked with the company for many years.

Fuhrmann

NZ

also

operates offices in Amsterdam Netherlands, Germany, Australia and China.

Fuhrmann personnel can be contacted in New Zealand fuhrmann@xtra.co.nz and in Europe jeffrey.losekoot@j-lana.com 84 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

NEW ZEALAND

Left to right: Nathan Arthur and Bruce Reid wool buyers Malcolm Ching Purelana Manager

ECO LABELLING AND PURELANATM IN DEMAND ‘Our customers worldwide instantly recognise bales of PurelanaTM wool that are strapped with a single Red Band. They know that this Red Band guarantees that this wool is virgin wool coming exclusively from WSI’, says Malcolm Ching PurelanaTM Manager of New Zealand Wool Services International (WSI) based at the company head office in Christchurch. ‘Our PurelanaTM brand guarantees consistency, traceability all the way back to the farm, and strict compliance with customer specification.’

P

urelanaTM is available in a range of wool types to meet industrial demands of, for example, tufted carpets or axminster carpets. Every PurelanaTM shipment is covered by an extensive warranty and detailed testing certification, incorporating length and colour measurements are available.

WSI is New Zealand’s largest wool export company with an annual turnover in excess of NZD 200 million.

Its head office is in Christchurch, New Zealand, with international offices in China, Turkey and India.

The company has an excellent relationship with New Zealand wool growers. It sources its wool from selected farms that produce some of 86 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

the finest New Zealand wools. It is

be operated from a single computer

also one of the largest wool buyers at

terminal, located anywhere in the

auction.

world, if necessary.

‘We operate one of the most advanced

Full test data can be extracted within

scouring facilities in the world’, says

48 seconds of a bale being cored.

Mr Ching .The plants adhere to strict

Monitoring the quality of each bale

systems of environmental care. ‘We

provides the scope to adjust the plant,

are the only plant in New Zealand that

minimising variations and ensuring

can offer the ECO labelling’.

customer specification is precisely

The company operates three metre

met.

Andar Cardmaster scours incorporating

FOSS near infrared wool measuring

a Unidryer at both its plants. Each is

technology features at both facilities,

fully computerised, enabling instant

ensuring

control and the capability to adjust

measuring of wool. WSI carefully

the process to match the requirements

monitors the quality of each bale

of both the raw product being scoured

produced

and its intended final use. The whole

adjust to ensure particular customer

scouring process at both plants can

specifications.

faster

and

has

more

the

efficient

scope

to

CANADA

Choosing Canadian Wool for a variety of applications ‘Wool buyers around the world now consider Canada as an additional source of quality wool’, says Mr Bjergso, General Manager at Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers (CCWG).

‘Canadian wool lends itself to a wide range of applications that are suitable for a variety of products and many topmakers from around the world are now using our wool’.

CCWG is a national co-operative that has been serving the Canadian wool industry since 1918. It collects, grades, measures and markets the wool on behalf of farmers. It grades and markets close to 1.4 million kilos of raw wool each year, in each of the three main classes of fine, medium and coarse. Canadian wool ranges from 22 – 35 microns with the bulk of production being between 29 -31 microns.

Canada is well adapted to sheep and wool production.

Wool has played an important role in clothing both civilian and military populations, contributing not only to home industries but also to a substantial commercial textile industry.

‘The main market for Canadian wool has been China, USA, India and Uruguay as well as a domestic market here in Canada. Canadian wool offers excellent options for blending with other wools, or for use in its own right for a wide range of products’, says Mr Bjergso.

CCWG grades and markets its wool according to accepted international wool industry practices and standards. All wool types are objectively measured after grading. ‘We believe that this gives us an essential edge.

Accurate measuring for each wool lot offered for sale is appreciated by our customers.

They know they are receiving a well prepared and better quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product’.

Eric Bjergso, General Manager at Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers meets HRH the Prince of Wales in May at the launch of the Canadian Campaign for Wool

‘We have been visiting new and established customers particularly in South America and China and have good forward orders in place. We look forward to supplying these markets with our excellent quality Canadian wool’, concludes Mr Bjergso.

For more information contact Mr Eric Bjergso Email: ericb@wool.ca

Canadian whiteface sheep

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 87

CHINA

Madam Yang, (second left front row) chairwoman of Nanjing Wool Market and her management team

NANJING WOOL MARKET CONNECTS CHINA WOOL MARKET TO WORLD TRADE In any trading relationship in foreign country it is important to have a friendly port of call where you can receive advice and assistance. Nanjing Wool Market (NWM) facilitates trade relationships between wool export companies from outside of China and wool buyers and processors in China.

‘It is customary for foreign companies that are planning to set up new relationships or planning to set up joint ventures with companies in China to consult us at NWM or China Wool Textile Association (CWTA) in Beijing’, says Madam Yang, chairwoman of NWM. ‘NWM should be the first point of contact for any wool company that wishes to do business in China.

We are engaged in wool buying as well as facilitating effect business relationships between Chinese and foreign companies’, says Madam Yang.

The NWM hold its annual conference each September and this attracts over 600 delegates. This is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies. It attracts representatives 88 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

of the wool processing industry, and commercial circles from within China and from all wool producing countries.

The conference provides an excellent opportunity for all delegates from around the world to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies wishing to exhibit their products. The Conference is open to delegates from all around the world.

Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry and its future plans. It offers an excellent opportunity for delegates to mix with current and new clients.

NWM is a statutory authority. It oversees information exchange, wool auctions, brokering, industry training, and technology consultation within the China wool industry. It actively assists companies from outside China that seek advice and introductions

to local companies in China. NWM membership includes woolgrowers, traders, primary processors, spinners, weavers, garment makers and retailers of wool and allied fibres all over China and also includes some foreign membership.

‘Although NWM is well known internationally for its China Wool Trade Fair & Information Conference’, says Madam Yang, ‘we are also a large importer of wool from around the world. We encourage wool exporters to contact us if they are interested in using our contacts to sell their wool in China.’

More information about NWM can be obtained on the English language website - www.woolmarket.com.cn This website features the latest market reports, wool prices and other relevant information of interest to the international wool trade.

CHINA

CHINA’S BIGGEST TOPMAKER INVESTS BIG IN ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION FOR SUSTAINABLE GROWTH Tianyu Wool Industry Co.(Tianyu) is the biggest wool top making company in China and one of the biggest producers of scoured wools and wool tops in the world.

The company is also the biggest wool top exporter in China, and the second largest greasy wool importer. It has an annual capacity of 8000 tons of scoured wools, 18000 tons of all types of wool tops and 6000 tons of all kinds of luster treated wool tops, super washed tops (including totally easy care treated tops) and Basolan treated tops.

90 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

M

r Wen, Chairman and General Manager of Tianyu remarked that the Chinese government declared a ‘war on pollution’ at the National People’s Congress (NPC) at the early March 2014. It outlined an array of targets, policies and campaigns to address environment ills. ‘As a leading wool processing company Tianyu fully supports these environmental protection initiatives and measures from the government in China. We are already addressing this problem

CHINA

and have taken initiatives against such pollution in the wool industry.

We are committed to environmental consideration and have invested accordingly’ says Mr Wen. ‘We spent RMB60 million in 2008 on resources protection, emission reduction and wastewater management.

In order to make the program of resource saving, emission reduction better and more efficient, we have invested another RMB60 million this year by importing Italian equipment in membrane technology for high efficiency resource recycling. Our standard of disposal is obviously higher than current national standards.’

This investment has been applied to all sectors of the company from energy efficiency and resource consumption control in the process to affluent treatment facility upgrading at the end. All such projects move Tianyu from a traditional industrial company of high energy and resource consumption and high emission into a modern company of low energy and resource consumption and low or even zero emission.

‘As an industry leader, we take responsibility for social good as well as economic interest. We are committed to building an environmentally friendly company with consideration for the community, customer satisfaction and employee satisfaction.

We believe that this investment is a good investment’, says Mr Wen.

New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina, Uruguay and other wool producing countries. All the machinery and equipment operated in its scouring mill, topmaking mill and treatment mill are imported separately from New Zealand, France, Germany and more.

It has ISO9001 2000 Quality Management System Certificate and ISO14000 Environment Protection System Certificate. While maintaining its AAA credit rating, the company has Jiangsu Entry/Exit Inspection and Quarantine clearance and has been awarded the ‘Class 1 Manufacturer of Industrial Products for Export’ in Jiangsu Province. ‘We use the latest technology and we are committed to supply our clients with environmental friendly wool products that have EU Ecolabel Certificate and OKTEX 100 Certificate for all our soured wools, wool grease, wool tops and noils, luster treated tops, super washed tops (including total easy care) and Basolan treated tops.’

Tianyu is a full member of INTERWOOLLAB and operates the latest wool testing equipment from Australia and Italy, such as laser scan fibre fineness tester, Almeter fibre length tester, appearance index tester,

whiteness tester, and thermal control systems.

‘At Tianyu quality and reputation are important. We work closely with our customers around the world. We strive to understand and satisfy customer requirement and expectation. We strive to deliver natural, perfect, and environmental friendly wool products’, concludes Mr Wen. For more information please contact Tianyu Wool Industry Website http //www.tianyu-wool.com, email info2tianyu-wool.com.

As an industry “ leader, we take

responsibility for social good as well as economic interest

”

Following the implementation of this environment protection upgrade system imported from Italy, Tianyu’s recycling of affluent treatment will be more than 75%. The sludge before detergent scouring will be used as organic manure and the remainder will be burnt to generate steam, and finally deliver zero emission to environment.

The company has strong working relation with wool suppliers of all good quality wool origin in Australia, WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 91

CHINA

Introduction of Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group

B

ased in the Free Trade Zone Australia Harvest is a leading company in the world wool textile industry with seven branches including fully imported scouring and Topmaking equipments and technologies as well as testing facilities.

The Company is currently producing 25,000 tones of scoured wool and 15,000 tones of wool tops. The products have won good reputation and are mainly exported with a portion to be sold into the domestic market. The company has had more than 20 years experience in wool trading and early stage processing.

Mr. Zhu Zhongxian, Chairman and President of Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group

The company has received accreditation by ISO9000 in 2001, and accreditation by Interwoollabs in 2002. The company was nominated by the Jiangsu Provincial Government in 2005 as the Reputable Enterprise with AAA rating.

Since 2005, the company has been rated by the Bank of China as the AAA credit recipient. The brand of wool top of the Australia Harvest has been elected as one of the top trading brands by the government both in 2005 and 2009.

The company was also elected and is a standing member of the China Wool Textile Association in 2006, 2008 and 2011.

In addition, Australia Harvest has been nominated to be the member of the China – Australian Joint Working Group on Wool. Since 2003, the company has been rated as one of the top 50 enterprises in the Chinese wool textile industry.

On behalf of the group, Mr. Zhu zhongxian, the Chairman and the Managing Director welcomes cooperation with clients both new and old to achieve win/ win business results in the future.

CHINA

NEW CHUWA’S TOPS COMPETE ON THE WORLD STAGE

Tops made from the best of merino wool from Australia, South Africa and New Zealand is the key product offered by New Chuwa to customers worldwide. The company was established in 2003 and was one of the first Chinese companies accredited with ISO9001 and ISO14001 in China.

HUA Xin Zhong, general manager of New Chuwa

N

ew Chuwa is certified with EU Ecolabel as well as GB/ T28001 Occupational Health and Safety Management System Certification and is an Interwoollabs member. Its combing capacity is 7,000 tons per year.

‘The quality and consistency of supply to our clients has always been our main priority’, says Mr HUA Xin Zhong, general manager of New Chuwa. ‘We strive to offer good quality products and good service. Our personnel have excellent technical credentials in fibre processing. New Chuwa believes very strongly in wool as a nature fibre with good textile and environmental performance, and we love working with wool’.

Basolan treatment equipment and two sets of KROY treatment. The annual capacity of Basolan treatment is 5,000 tons and 5,000 tons of Superwash and Mercerized treatment.

recession the future does look more

The company uses advanced test and measurement equipment, ranging from an Almeter AL-100 and SirolanLaserscan to control the quality throughout processing.

wool textile industry chain. We have

‘It has not been easy for the Chinese top making industry in these years, comments Mr Hua. A weak demand in the market as well as fierce competition for potential orders. The increase in prices for production and higher labour costs have also contributed to reduced profitability. This has also created intense competition among top makers, with no winners. But as Europe and the US come out of

is cost competitive, quality driven and

positive.’

‘At New Chuwa we are well positioned to take advantage of any increase in demand. We operate along the entire very high standards when buying greasy wool. All wool is checked for quality on arrival before processing.

We run a very efficient operation, that delivers to client specification and on time.

‘We welcome visits from buyers of wool top from around the world to come and see for themselves what we have to offer’, concludes Mr Hua. For more information please contact Jim Chiang Tel + 86 573 8822 2009 Email sales@newchuwa.com

New Chuwa wooltop is made from 100% merino wool and over 65% of its production is exported all around the world, the remainder being for domestic sales.

The company runs four advanced top treatment lines including two sets of 94 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Australian wool being assessed prior to processing

CHINA

NEW IN-HOUSE DYEING ADDS VALUE TO THRIVE’S EXPORT QUALITY YARN PRODUCTS As its name suggests this Chinese yarn company is indeed thriving.

‘We have been developing new products and supplying high-end clients in Japan, USA and Europe, as well our domestic customers in China’, says Jimmy Zhang Deputy General Manager at Thrive.

T

he company now has a completely integrated in-house operation - from scouring to

topmaking to spinning and now dyeing.

This

integrated

in-house

operation provides a better quality control at all stages of production. The result is a better quality yarn.

‘This

is

good

internationally

for who

our prefer

clients that

their order be produced through one integrated pipeline. And as the domestic demand in China improves 96 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

we expect a busier year in 2014’, says Mr Zhang.

Thrive specializes in 4 types of production that include machine knitted yarn; sock yarn - for the USA, mostly using 100% Australian wool; weaving yarn for the UK market; and circular knitted yarn - for the flan knitted sector. Machine washable and TAC yarn, as well as basolan treatment and cashmere yarn can be made for special runs. ‘Our production lines are flexible and we can provide our customers with individual special runs if required’.

Thrive ‘Anti-static yarn’ and ‘thermal yarn’ have become two highlights among its products. Each of these has undergone extensive testing and meets required quality specifications.

The company is OEKO—TEX 100 certification accredited for its wool yarns and wool/acrylic yarns, which comply with EU standards for exports.

Thrive has also received ISO9002 Quality System and ISO14001:2004 Environment System ccertifications for enterprises. ‘Based on our principles of high quality and ongoing innovations, we will continue to provide the best-quality products our customers require’.

The company has recently purchased a new 10,000 spindle that will be installed shortly. We are capable of producing pure wool yarns and various types of blended and machine woven yarns in a yarn count range 20s/2120s/2’, says Mr Zhang. ‘At Thrive we use 40,000 spindles for wool spinning with a daily capacity of 10-14 tons per day - and an annual production of 5-6 thousand tons of worsted yarn.’

The company uses NSC combers from France, CONGNTEX spinning frames from Italy, SAVIO automatic winders from Italy, FOCUS double twisters from France, SSM yarn doubling

Looking for quality yarn with style, handle and colour?

CHINA

winders from Switzerland, and VTS— 08 double twisters from Germany.

Thrive provides white and dyed yarns and fabrics to meet the requirements of its customers. ‘We have a sophisticated quality control system and established an Experiment and R&D Centre, which is equipped with a range of advanced testing equipment, including the leading-edge Uster IV Strip Testers, automatic yarn strength testers, automatic yarn twist testers and colour fastness testers’, says Mr Zhang.

Mr Zhang also encourages potential customers to use its wool tops produced by its subsidiary company.

Thrive Wool Tops Co. Ltd currently has a wool washing line with an annual capacity of 10,000 tons of scoured wool. It operates three modern wool top making lines, including NSC top gill boxes and combing machines from France, with an annual capacity of 8 98 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

tons per day more than 6,000 tons of

its

29um-16.5um self-combed Australian

facilitated the production of quality

wool tops. Currently it exports wool

dyed yarns and the improvement of

tops to Europe, Japan, South Korea

its product quality.

and India.

dyeing

Thrive

is

capability,

always

which

has

interested

in

In 2013 Thrive established a new

establishing

wool top dyeing factory and invested

partnerships and joint developments

heavily

equipment,

with existing and potential customers

quality control and lab setup. Its

in all parts of the world. Agent

in

imported

dyeing equipment has been fully automated with sophisticated controls along with a central control room. It has now been equipped with imported sliver printing machines made in Japan, sophisticated suction drum back-washing machines, cutting-edge acrylic yarn balls dryers, as well as imported NSC combers. Its quality

long-term

trade

representation in Italy is something Thrive

is

currently

working

at

establishing and it would welcome dialogue from such a company or individual. Thrive welcomes enquiries from customers that are looking for competitively priced, good quality yarn and wooltop.

control lab has been fully refurbished

For more information please contact

with sophisticated automatic sample

Jimmy Zhang:

dispensers and a Datcolur600 color

jimmy_zhang58@163.com or

measure

jimmy_zhang@chinazxsy.com

and

matching

system.

With such a strong investment, the

Tel +86 510 80282628

company has significantly improved

www.chinazxsy.com

SWITZERLAND

PADBROOK LONDON OPENS IN SWITZERLAND After 25 prosperous years of work the board of Padbrook Ltd London, supplier of natural luxury fibers to the textile chain, has opened a branch in Switzerland and the Board of Directors has appointed Pierluigi Mazzia managing director to lead the company.

M

r. Mazzia has been a partner in Laniera Italiana in Biella Italy but has made the decision to move and accept this new challenge with Padbrook.

the world. Customers can be assured

‘PADBROOK is proud to be a world leader in international wool supplies’, says Mr. Mazzia who has more than 30 years experience in the luxury fiber industry.

best qualities available on their behalf,

The company specializes in all types of natural fibers including wools from different origins such as Australia, Argentina, Uruguay and New Zealand in tops, scoured or greasy, as well as mohair, alpaca, angora, cashmere, camel hair, cashgora, vicuña, guanaco, yak and silk.

‘We offer our experience in working with the best textile factories around

that when they come to us they will receive the best service and the best

Pierluigi Mazzia

fibre.

‘Most customers trust us to select the and we do our best to fully satisfy their expectations’, says Mr. Mazzia.

Padbrook has branches in Morocco, Turkey, and China. ‘We welcome enquiries from companies around the world that are looking for reliable and experienced representatives in Europe, Asia and North African markets’.

Padbrook LTD can be contacted at Via Campagna, 10 - 6982 Agno CH Tel: +41 916081515 Mob: +41 791387069 Skype: pigimazzia1

PADBROOK

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 99

AUSTRALIA

A FOCUS ON QUALITY AND A GUARANTEE OF SUPPLY

Peter King, Michell Wool - General Manager Trading Asia Pacific and Steven Read, Michell Wool – CEO checking carbonised wool

M

ichell Wool customers are reaping the benefit of the companies continued investment in process improvement.

While the vibrant and highly competitive wool industry has seen many companies come and go the name Michell Wool and their experienced and long serving team continue to set the pace in the meeting their clients ever-changing needs.

“It is all about what our clients have to say to us, we are talking to them on a regular basis about how we can assist them in getting more out of their manufacturing process. We want them to be more competitive in a fast moving world textile market driven by fashion, currency and raw wool price movements. We are very aware that our clients need both a prompt delivery service and the ability to forward buy wool and we offer both 100 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

these services,” said Steven Read, Michell Wool CEO. After 144 years in the wool industry with a keen focus on supplying carding wools to the Woollen - spinning/ weaving, home textile and felting industries we still work tirelessly with our clients each year to develop new types and blends. This has led to a number of innovative changes to both the carbonising and scouring processes.

“It starts with feedback from our clients and we then involve everyone in the process, some of the best and most innovative ideas come off the factory floor or directly from our customers.

Our staff is committed to constantly looking for ways to improve quality and ensure on time delivery to our clients” said Steven.

Mycraloft™ is a good example of that

innovation, the proprietary combing technology originally developed and piloted in Australia has now moved to the Michell Suzhou factory.

MycraLoft™ uses a three dimensional combing process developed by Michell that produces a wool fibre specifically designed to meet the needs of the bedding industry: high-loft, easycare, washable and tumble dryable, antimicrobial, easy to process, durable and clean. MycraLoft™ is currently used by a range of bedding designers, manufacturers and retailers around the world and can also be used for jacket linings, sleeping bags and soft furnishings. A wide range of other new equipment has also been installed in the Suzhou factory facilitating the production of: • Rectified Top - this top is perfect for sliver knitters, allowing high quality products to be made with minimal waste and high density fabric.

• Felt Wool - this product is the cleanest wool available and great for high end felts with virtually no contaminants.

When added to some of the existing services such as: - Commission Carbonising - Carbonised wool for the (Woollen, Felt, Bedding, Blanket markets).

Wool can be greasy picked and product picked.

- Loose Wool Super Wash for the (Bedding market) - High quality carbonised products.

- Competitive prices - Greasy wool supply, inspection and advice - On line product picking

AUSTRALIA

This make Michell Wool a onestop-shop for wool manufacturers in Europe and Asia who are looking for productivity gains in their manufacturing process.

The increased demand for all types of wool has seen Michell expand their direct sourcing arm in Australia, Michell Direct Wool. Established in 2010 it has allowed Michell to add more mobile wool buyers and a network of grower drop off depots in convenient rural locations. This has assisted in building strong relationships with growers and grower groups providing Michell with in depth knowledge of production trends at the woolgrower end.

This means Michell can provide our downstream clients access to individual grower types, regions and bloodlines, that match their specific requirements for wool types. Our relationships with growers means we know where the wool is and when the sheep will be ready to be shorn.

“Having a direct relationship with growers has been beneficial to both Michell and woolgrowers. It’s all about a guarantee of supply for us, and downstream feedback on their wool and market intelligence for the grower.

Our customers can be confident that we know where our wool comes from and the environment in which it was produced conforms with ethical protocols” said David Michell.

Michell is confident in the future of the global wool industry, over our more than 140 year history we have seen more than a few ups and downs. We will continue to use our international team of expert staff to seek out and drive new opportunities, participate actively through partnerships along the entire fibre supply chain and focus on meeting the needs that matter most to customers: quality, speed, accuracy, timing, guaranteed supply and the development of new products.

Sell to 5000 buyers in China WOOL EXPORTER China magazine is used by wool and textile companies around the world to advertise their products and services to the woollen industry in China.

‘This Chinese language publication is circulated to over 5000 major importers of wool and speciality fibres in China’, says Victor Chesky, Editor. ‘It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market to wool processing and topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, carpet and garment manufacturers, and government agencies and ministries in China.’

WOOL EXPORTER China is also distributed to all delegates (600+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool market Conference, the major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China.

A number of copies of are also distributed to textile enterprises in Hong Kong and Taiwan.

‘This magazine provides exporters the opportunity to communicate to buyers in China, in their own language, breaking down any language barrier,’ says Mr Chesky. ‘For companies seeking new export business, advertising in WOOL EXPORTER will introduce their company to this targeted decision maker base in all sectors of the wool industry in China.

For companies that have established customers in China, advertising in WOOL EXPORTER China will reinforce their position as a preferred supplier to these existing customers, and will also introduce their company to new buyers.’

‘WOOL EXPORTER China is published in September each year and is a buyers’ guide that is used by our readers in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan as a reference tool for the following 12 months. If your company is interested in advertising in the 2015 issue of WOOL EXPORTER China please contact us’.

Mr Chesky can be contacted by email at victorch@bigpond.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 101

AUSTRALIA

Left to right: Wes McNaughton, Peter Maher, James Lillie, Jonathan Lillie, David Martin

QUALITY & SERVICE AND A SIMPLE AND TIMELESS PHILOSOPHY by: Victor Chesky

The Fox and Lillie Group is an Australian based wool buyer, broker, processor, and exporter, sourcing wool from all over Australia and all other major wool producing countries including South Africa and Argentina. It has a global export network that reaches customers in all existing and emerging wool consuming countries.

W

hether buying wool directly from local farmers, or combing specialised

open tops in their modern top making factory

in

China,

the

company

continues to embrace the simple and timeless

philosophy

upon

which

the company was founded in 1948 – ‘quality and service’.

‘And what’s in your name?’ I ask James Lillie. ‘A lot’, he replies from his Melbourne office, ‘our customers have been relying on our name as a 102 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

quality supplier of the right wool for their specific requirements for over 65 years.’

‘Today our diverse and increasingly global business has steadily expanded and diversified’, says James Lillie.

‘With annual sales in excess of 24 million kilos per annum, we are now one of the major exporters of Australian wool’.

Jonathan Lillie adds ‘we are somewhat unique in that we offer is one of the most comprehensive ranges of wool

AUSTRALIA

types covering both the woollen and worsted sectors the industry especially in comparison to other companies who often focus on worsted types.

We are able to undertake this with the expertise gained from the ownership and operation of numerous woollen and worsted early stage processing facilities in Australia and aboard. As a result we remain a leader in the supply of Australian scoured and carbonised wools’.

We produce an extensive range of very low vegetable matter scoured lambs types for the hosiery industry, and also make the full range of scoured, carbonised and open top types used in the woollen weaving and knitting industry, from best colour lambs fleeces to the poorer colour short stains’.

‘Our core knowledge and expertise in the woollen system is also evident in

our worsted wool department where our staff has extensive knowledge and hands on experience in topmaking along with greasy supply.

Fox and Lillie have wool buyers located at all wool selling centres across Australia, who attend and purchase wool for the company at auction sales.

In addition, a growing percentage of the export division’s wool is sourced directly from wool growers, through their own Wool Broking and Direct buying operation, Fox and Lillie Rural P/L (FLR).

Fox and Lillie operates a specialised wool processing plant in China, run as a partnership with local interests.

OTCL operates an open top processing plant in Zhangjiagang. This 10,000 square meter factory mostly processes Australian wool but also sources wool from New Zealand, South Africa, and Europe to increase the type range

“ Whatever the fineness, length or style, greasy scoured or tops, we can supply it

”

available to its customers. It offers tops from 15.5 - 30 micron and from 40hm to 55hm in super color and discoloured including the option to Superwash and Basolan treat the wool.

‘Whatever the fineness, length or style, greasy scoured or tops, we can supply it’, concludes James Lillie.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 103

AUSTRALIA

Ken Welsh (left) and Josh Lamb at Techwool’s new warehousing facility in Melbourne

SPECIAL CARE FOR CUSTOMERS BIG AND SMALL From farm to export Techwool Trading (TWT) provides a seamless operation to customers big and small. ‘Our new facility has been operating for over a year now and this modern facility has enabled the company to consolidate grower stocks and streamline logisitics to provide greater efficiencies in handling’, says Ken Welsh trading manager who together with Josh Lamb works with customers in China, India and Europe.

T

WT is one of Australia’s largest wool exporters with over 220,000 bales exported each year. It supplies all standard types from fine to medium Merino fleece wools, crossbred fleece & blend types as well as skirting and carding types.

TWT traditionally values greasy wool by style, top length, tensile strength, and background colour.

assess how wool will perform best during processing.

of wool that will process consistently time after time.

In the past 10 years European wooltextile manufacturing has consolidated to compete with manufacturing in Asia. This has created a demand for a wider variety of wool types that manufacturers can use in their production processes.

The company supplies wool to over 100 clients worldwide. ‘Some of our clients will only buy 2 - 3 containers each year, while some will buy this quantity every month. The strength of our company is that we look after all our customers, big and small’, says Mr Welsh.

‘Europe is familiar territory for us. We have proven over many years that we can service the European market and we know how to do this within traditional European parameters’, says Mr Lamb. ‘We understand the different requirements that exist for companies processing wool in China, India, and Europe as these are our main destinations’.

Utilising direct buying and the traditional auction the company ensures that it can deliver wool at competitive prices. ‘We are one of the bigger direct/private buying companies in Australia’, says Mr Lamb. ‘We operate our own depots in Hamilton and Benalla in Victoria, and Kingston SE where wool growers can bring their wool to us and receive a direct price at the depot door.’

‘We always take the time to discuss each customer’s needs and can advise them about the best way for any type of wool to be processed. We can advise a client what type of product is best suited to a particular wool’, says Mr Welsh. ‘We constantly check and 104 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

‘We work closely with our clients to develop and deliver a greater variety of wool types to meet this demand’, says Josh Lamb. ‘We also appreciate that our customers need uniform deliveries

The company supplies greasy wool to a large number of combing, carding and carbonizing mills. ‘We are not just a trading company, we are a wool company and we can advise mills in the best possible wool types required to achieve their desired outcome’, concluded Mr Lamb.

For more information please contact Josh Lamb or Ken Welsh Email trading@techwool.com.au

Techwool Trading

AUSTRALIA

IMPORTING SCOURED OR CARBONISED WOOL A BETTER SOLUTION

LEFT TO RIGHT: Mr Myungjin (Jim) Kim and Paul Ferronato

Victoria Wool Processors (VWP) is Australia’s largest wool processor, offering a varied range of scoured and carbonised types to suit a cross section of requirements from spinners and weavers.

From new season merino lambs to full length merino fleece and all crossbred types, VWP can supply a product to suit any requirement. It also offers a full commission scouring or carbonising service tailored to each customer.

A

ccording to Myungjin (Jim) Kim, who established VWP in 1990, buying scoured and carbonised wool from VWP will guarantee that the customer is getting 100% Australian wool that has not been blended with inferior types of wool from other countries. A further benefit to buying processed wool is that there is no pollution to their local environment.

‘We have been processing Australian wool for over 20 years and have excellent environmental credentials’.

VWP has wool buyers in all wool buying centres in Australia and can buy wool for customers if required. It also offers forward and prompt shipping and logistic services to all parts of the world. The company employs Chinese, Korean, Italian and Japanese speakers, making communication easy for its customers in any part of the world.

106 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

‘Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest downs wool. Using clean Australian water combined with the latest in processing technology, our wools are well known for cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says Paul Ferronato, Senior Wool Buyer at VWP. ‘We can supply carbonised wool of all types, lengths and qualities to customers throughout the world. We can work directly with spinners to develop specific types most suited to their needs’.

‘Scoured and carbonised wool provides a win win outcome for both exporter and processor. Both parties receive what is specified, and they save money on transportation costs ‘, says Mr Ferronato. ‘Those who believe that wool processing in Australia is more expensive than in Asia are

wrong. The cost of labour, energy, water treatment, and transportation has risen considerably in Asia. These factors coupled with quality and cost efficiency offered by VWP gives us the edge in offering customers the best possible processing options. We scour and carbonise wool at very competitive prices in Australia. It costs virtually the same as processing in China’.

By

the

time

costs

for

local

transportation and storage charges are taken into consideration and then shipping costs are added, that are higher for the heavier greasy wool, it could be more cost advantageous for a wool processor to import scoured and carbonised, rather than greasy wool.

VWP delivers wool directly to the mill.

It is of uniform quality and ready for processing.

AUSTRALIA

WIN-WIN SOLUTION FOR TOPMAKERS By: Victor Chesky

The debate about the advantages in buying processed wool rather than greasy wool is ongoing.

The rising labour and energy costs in Asia, as well as environmental compliance costs are making wool users stop and consider the benefits in processing wool in the country of origin. I asked David Ritchie President of Australian Council of Wool Exporters and Processors (ACWEP) why it should make better sense to buy Australian wool that has already been scoured. be confident that they are getting 100% Australian wool that has not been blended with inferior types from other countries. Australian quarantine laws prevent the importing of foreign wools onto its shores.

Further, Australian processed wool is very competitively priced.

Importing greasy wool is more costly in the long run. When extra costs in transportation, processing, and environmental compliance is taken into account it is more cost effective to import already carbonised or scoured wool from Australia.

David Ritchie - President of Australian Council of Wool Exporters and Processors (ACWEP)

‘When a customer receives wool that has been processed by an Australian processor it will receive wool that is clean and ready to use and has been processed with the environment in mind’, says David Ritchie.

There are many reasons why top makers and spinners around the world should buy Australian scoured and carbonised wool rather than importing greasy wool to process in their own country. Most importantly they can 108 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

It is also evident that the consumer is becoming more interested in wool and its image as green and clean fibre. The fact that early wool processing requires a huge amount of clean water also adds additional pressures on natural resources in each country.

Successful early stage wool processing plants in the future will need to concentrate on improved efficiency, reduced resource use and finding ways of dealing with their effluent discharges according to Mr Ritchie. This will need to be done without compromising the quality of the product.

It is well known that when wool processing is not done responsibly it will cause great environmental problems. It is not surprising therefore that many countries have banned or discouraged early stage wool processing. It makes more sense to import wool scoured or carbonised and leave contamination and pollutants in the country of origin.

Australian early stage wool processing plants all use the worlds’ best environmental practices and operate under strict government environmental laws. Each plant has its own unique way of complying with these laws and have water discharge treatment centres. The treated water is then used for irrigation rather than being discharged into water ways.

‘Given these environmental problems that early stage wool processing can cause to the environment it is a wonder that some countries would want to purchase greasy wool and not scoured or carbonized wool from the country of origin’ says Mr Ritchie.

Mr Ritchie encourages all top makers and spinners around the world to ask their greasy wool suppliers to quote the cost of importing processed Australian wool as carbonised or scoured form to see if it makes better financial and environmental sense.

SOUTH AFRICA

SOUTH AFRICAN WOOLS SUITED TO MANY APPLICATIONS The availability of a wide range of microns and staple lengths, ensure that South African wools can be processed into a large and diverse range of fine wool apparel products on either the worsted, semi-worsted or the woollen system. Due to their inherent high staple strength, low within-sale-lot variation in staple length and low VM content, combing fleeces produce excellent tops characterised by low short fibre values and low CV (%) of Hauteur values. Wool exporters are highly skilled in designing appropriate blends to meet client specifications for a wide range of intermediate products.

T

he good fibre diameter and fibre length distribution characteristics in wooltop

conceivable commercial yarn count

makes it suitable for spinning into any

African merino wools are ideally suited

Louis de Beer

required by the apparel industry.

Because of its softness of handle, South

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 109

SOUTH AFRICA

yellowness values (Y-Z) are very low, varying between 0 and 2 units. The incidence of tender wool in the clip is limited due to sound farm management practices, which are aimed at minimising fleece “shock” during, for example, lambing, and providing adequate supplementary feed during droughts which occur fairly regularly in South Africa. Fleece wool consignments rarely fall below 40N/ktex staple strength, since any tender wools are rigorously skirted out and packed separately on the farm.

for soft against the skin products in fabric or knitwear.

Strict classing and woolshed preparation procedures on the farm, ensures that the occurrence of stained or pigmented fibre in fleece lines is low, making South African wools also eminently suitable for the pastel trade.

The bright, white fibre base colour of South African wools provides an ideal substrate to provide the full palette of fashion shades required by the industry.

The South African clip is predominantly a merino clip. Between 65 - 75% of this clip comprise fleece wools with the balance being made up of locks, belly wools, and lamb’s wool.

Cape wools are high yielding, with more than 60% of the clip yielding at least 60% clean. Seed contamination is limited, with more than 80% of the clip normally exhibiting very low levels (2% or less).

The fibre diameter ranges from 18 27 micron with more than 80% of the clip finer than 24 microns. Cape Merino Wools have excellent colour characteristics, and fleeces normally measure between 60 and 69 Y-units on the brightness scale. Corresponding 110 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

A large percentage of wool growers have mixed farming operations and three shearings every two years is quite common. Shearing strategies are flexible and producers can react very quickly to market signals. Long wools (60 mm and above) normally comprise more than 65% of the clip, while shorter qualities, ideally suited to the fine woollen apparel trade, are freely available throughout the season.

‘The South African wool industry invests much time and effort in shearer training, not only to facilitate the harvesting process, but also to ensure that wool is harvested according to the highest standards and practices of the Code of Best Practices for production and shearing’, says Louis de Beer General Manager of Cape Wools.

‘A large percentage of the South African clip is shorn by hand. The main reason why many producers prefer hand shearing to machine shearing is animal health. Some find the noise made by machine shearing too stressful for the sheep. Also, in many rural areas weather conditions can be extreme, with cold spells in the middle of summer not uncommon, and hand shearing allows the shearer to leave slightly more wool on the sheep than is the case with machine shearing, thus providing slightly more protection against the cold.’

‘Over the years South African wools have built up an enviable reputation as extremely well-classed and well prepared for the market’, says Mr de Beer. ‘Classing remains a priority for the industry. Meticulous classing of the clip according the standards and guidelines laid down in the Code of Practice for Clip Preparation is supported by the South African woolgrower.’

The Code of Practice for Clip Preparation includes strict measures for shearing shed management and quality assurance procedures on the farm to avoid any unwanted material entering the wool in the bale, and ongoing shearer training courses are also structured around shed

Fine-wool grower Mike Palmer and his daughter Joanne are classing a fleece. They class the wool into 22 different lines to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line

SOUTH AFRICA

management procedures to ensure clip quality.

One of the most important criteria of the Code is for the classer to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line. Thus, minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important.

Virtually the entire South African clip is tested and certified by the Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa, an Interwoollabs accredited wool testing house. The wool is tested for mean fibre diameter, vegetable matter content and clean yield in accordance with procedures laid down by IWTO. Colour measurement is also offered to

sellers and buyers. Length and strength testing is available as an option for producers who wish to have their clips additionally measured, or for exporters who wish to conduct post-sale testing.

‘The South African woolgrower has a keen appreciation of animal husbandry and how to care for his animals and the environment’, remarks Mr de Beer. ‘Resource-based conservation is a high priority and the “clean green” approach is a natural business ethic.

Internal and external stock remedies are used sparingly and only when there is no alternative. The result is a healthy, well-adapted national flock that thrives in the natural environment. “As far as mulesing is concerned this is not a procedure which is practiced here” concludes Mr de Beer.

Shipments from South Africa to major buying Countries July 2013 - July 2014 Country

Grease Kg

Scoured Kg

Australia

23 007

0

China / Macau

26 643 201

177 700

Czech Republic

6 208 909

Egypt Germany

Tops

Noils

Total Kg

% of Total FOB

23007 28 262

26 916 545

59.9

0

0

6 208 909

14.7

936 048

0

0

936 048

2.7

140 392

444 622

245 262

0

830 276

2.9

0

38 859

0

0

38 859

0.2

India

2 097 557

180 945

0

0

2 278 502

5.1

Italy

1 494 520

648146

1 151 719

135 175

3 429 560

11.9

5 868

6 810

10 280

22 958

0.1

635

129 271

129 906

0.5

9 794

96 899

106 693

0.5

304 045

1.2

73 513

0.3

41 306 885

100

Hong Hong

Japan Mauritius Portugal UK

29 818

USA Total (Incl other coutries)

37 573 452

112 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

67 382

212 170 46 956

26 557

1 561 589

1 936 070

59 092

232 809

SOUTH AFRICA

H. DAWSON SA SIMPLIFIES WOOL BUYING H. Dawson South Africa can deliver wool quickly to customers wherever they are based. H. Dawson Wool South Africa (HDSA) office is located in Port Elizabeth, a hub for customers and suppliers looking for South African wool.

S

outh Africa produces around 50 million kgs of wool, most of which is exported. Over 80% of this clip is between 19 - 22 microns.

Over 16% of the clips tests below 19 microns.

Good farming practices and scrupulous classing practices have ensured that South African wool is well regarded by users around the world for its excellent processing characteristics. Favourable weather conditions ensure that the average clean yield of South African merino wool is around 64%.

HDSA focuses on supplying Merino, German Merino and Crossbreds to buyers in China, India and Europe.

In recent years, South African wool has become very popular in China and exports to the country have significantly increased. ‘This move has offered H Dawson South Africa a great opportunity to work very closely with the extremely experienced, knowledgeable and well-respected H. Dawson team in Beijing’, says Johan Bosch General Manager Port Elizabeth office. ‘Our customers look for consistent delivery and reliable service and we can certainly provide that’.

Jo Dawson CEO. We take the time to

‘As with other H. Dawson offices around the world HDSA provide a transparent, reliable and seamless service from beginning to end’, says

on his mobile at +27 839472041.

really understand our suppliers, to find out how they grow wool and what makes their product really special. We forge strong relationships with our customers, to gain an insight into the exact nature of their business, how they like to operate, what they need and how we can support them.

The H. Dawson South Africa office can be contacted at +27 41 4842021.

Johan Bosch can be contacted directly The company can also be contacted through it twitter account at Twitter @ HDawsonWool

CONNECTING BUYERS AND SELLERS Since 1986

2014

INTERNATIONAL TRADE PUBLICATIONS

PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia Tel: 61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: 61 3 9533 0727 • Email: info@woolnews.net • Web: www.woolnews.net

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 113

SOUTH AFRICA

STRONG TIES TO SUPPLY MARKET FROM

LEMPRIERE SOUTH AFRICA Lempriere South Africa, part of the global Lempriere Group, continues to be one of the largest greasy wool buyers in Africa despite a very competitive South African wool market.

Lempriere can offer non-mulesed certification to its clients. ‘Our strong ties in the supplier markets, ensures consistent and reliable supply in terms of both quality and quantity. We are not reliant solely on an auction market where supply, price and quality can be extremely volatile.’

An experienced team of buyers in the main wool selling region of Port Elizabeth allows for methodical valuation and classing of the broad spectrum of wools on offer.

Lempriere South Africa also employ a dedicated logistics team performing all customs formalities in-house, with other commodities being exported by Lempriere Global Logistics including cotton, mohair and wine.

T

Lempriere donating Merino rams into underprivileged rural communities of South Africa to assist local wool growers raise the standard of wool within this region

he great fibre of this continent still presents many innovative opportunities for buyers, and at Lempriere we offer competitive and quality supply based on clients processing requirements, says Angus Hooke trading manager from his office in Port Elizabeth South Africa. ‘We also

offer greasy and semi-processed wool from other regions on the continent, including Namibia and Kenya.’

The main markets for Lempriere SA’s wools are China, India, Europe and the Americas. South African wools are all non-mulesed and on request

‘The landscape for global commodity traders, and the wool processing pipeline, is constantly changing and with a strong history of adaptation we are positioned to work closely with clients to help them achieve their sales goals’, remarked Mr Hooke.

Angus Hooke can be contacted at angus.hooke@lempriere.com.au

HIGH STANDARDS FROM STANDARD WOOL SA ‘It has been a very busy year for us in South Africa’, says Paul Lynch joint managing director at Standard Wool South Africa. The South African wool industry hosted the 2014 IWTO Congress in Cape Town in May, where it welcomed a large international delegation that met to discuss future plans for the global wool industry.

Mr Lynch Chairman of the IWTO Organising Committee commented

114 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

that ‘the Congress was a great success.

The program included high calibre speakers and of course we hosted several social events that showcased our beautiful country’.

Standard Wool South Africa is the largest wool exporter in South Africa and buys in the region of 90,000 bales each year, the majority of those bales are exported as greasy wool. ‘Our processed products and greasy wool

prices are competitive and we ensure that the correct wool is bought to produce a particular product, and at the right price. We work hard to ensure that our customers have their orders filled on time and to budget’, says Mr Lynch.

‘We have experience in South African greasy wool, ranging from the lowest quality to spinner style fine wools.

SOUTH AFRICA

Our South African merino wool has earned a reputation for uniformity, softness and high staple strength.

Although our wool doesn’t have the same specifications in yield and vm as Australian wool, if used correctly South African wool will perform just as well or even better. Users of South African wool worldwide know of these attributes and this is why we have seen such an increase in purchases worldwide’, Mr Lynch.

Mulesing, virtually unknown in South Africa, is a further product advantage offered by Standard Wool SA. Companies concerned about the mulesing issue can buy South African wool from Standard Wool SA knowing that this will not be a problem for them further down the processing pipeline.

Mark Wright joint managing director points out that ‘while we are a large enough company to guarantee supply, we are not too big to stint on quality

or service.’ All wool is tested by an independent IWTO-accredited laboratory (Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa) and IWTO test certificates are used as a basis of trading as per the international norm.

‘We check all wool for quality not once, but twice, before it leaves the brokers store for transport to its clients around the world. We employ the best technical experts in South Africa. Our people are our strongest asset”.

‘I think we must be perfectionists’, says Mr Wright. ‘We employ the very best technical people. Our people are experts at what they do. They have a great knowledge and understanding

Mark Wright (left) and Paul Lynch with South African scoured wool - used by wool processors worldwide

of our products and then Paul and I check it all again before our customers receive their orders each and every time’.

For more information please contact Paul Lynch at paul@standardwool.co.za or Mark Wright mark@standardwool.co.za

EXPORTERS OF SOUTH AFRICAN GREASY SCOURED, CARBONIZED WOOL

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 115

MOHAIR SA

Mohair

DRIVING FASHION THROUGH TERTIARY EDUCATION

E

ducation of the youth and the fashion and textile designers of the future is the key to broadening the consumer base of the Mohair fibre. The students of today are the brand ambassadors of the future, which is the driving force behind the collaborations with universities around the world, introducing this authentic and luxury natural fibre to the young and ground-breaking design students.

Mohair SA started this programme several years ago with a Port Elizabeth based university, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU), educating the third year fashion and textile design students on the properties and qualities of Mohair.

Through this collaboration a number of talented students emerged as soughtafter Mohair knitwear designers.

A newer collaboration is with “Mode Gakuen” in Nagoya Japan, which offers the design students the 116 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

exciting opportunity to work with this luxurious and durable fibre and introducing the multi-faceted uses of Mohair to the young and influential designers.

across various Vogue publications.

Abroad, Mode Gakuen is known as a high-status school of Fashion Design and Make-up which opened its doors in 1966 in Nagoya, Japan. Currently it’s the largest specialised training college with a school in front of each terminal train station in Tokyo, Shinjuku, Osaka and Nagoya. It is a known for its cutting edge learning environment, where its graduates are snapped up by top designers from around the globe, including Zara, H&M, Mark Jacobs and Nike – just to name a few.

Lindsay Humphreys, Marketing Co-

Another first is the Mohair SA collaboration with Nihon Vogue and introducing a knitwear design competition. The competition was launched two years ago in two categories, namely fashion and accessories, which was advertised

Twenty three finalists were present at the South African Embassy where the winner was announced.

Both these events were attended by ordinator at Mohair SA commenting the following: “Mohair SA is thrilled that the Mohair Brand can be part of the future successes of these talented students and designers. With big fashion houses scouting for these students we hope that they take their knowledge and passion for Mohair and apply it in their future designs and continue to explore this versatile and luxurious fibre throughout their careers.”

Mohair SA is continuing to expand on these international collaborations, with Donghua University in Shanghai, China, this year entering into a similar project involving their fashion design department.

MOHAIR SA

“MO-B-GO”, THE MOHAIR BICYCLE LAUNCHED AT DESIGN INDABA metaphorical spin based on the actual process.”

Besides the bicycle, MSA gave visitors a sneak peek into the latest designs in Mohair fashion and interior. Naked Ape featured jerseys fresh off the SA Fashion Week runway, with the designs incorporating a variety of functional trims like leather. Mohair SA’s former bursary student, Laduma Ngxokolo also displayed his traditional unisex collection, inspired by his Eastern Cape roots. With deep patterns and vibrant colours, Ngxokolo’s selection of garments, as well as Kelly Esterhuyse’s timeless chunky knitwear caused quite a sensation amongst the fashion fundi’s.

Mohair designs by Laduma (Simon Deiner/SDR photography)

M

ohair South Africa (MSA) shifted into high gear for the annual Design Indaba 2014 held in Cape Town, South Africa earlier this year, with an interactive concept that got visitors thinking out of the box, and onto a bike; the MoB-Go. MSA cleverly introduced the Mohair knitting process by designing a bicycle that when pedalled, activates a knitting machine that gave visitors the opportunity to knit a Mohair scarf with each perfect pedal stroke.

The end result was a scarf that will be donated to a charitable organisation looking after the needs of the homeless children.

Anle Marais, Marketing Co-ordinator of MSA added; “We wanted to create an authentic experience at this year’s exhibition. With an array of worldclass designs and a highly creative audience looking for innovative applications, we knew that we needed to stand out from the crowd. With this idea, we could showcase the beauty and versatility of Mohair but also engage both young and old, by giving them an interactive experience with a

The show stopping Mohair velour sofa, custom made by Dark Horse, created richness and dimension to the stand by its apt geometrical design whilst, Candice Johnson, a finalist in the Top 5 Designers by House and Leisure magazine showcased her Miss Knitwear designs. Johnson’s bold use of colour and patterns in delicate Kid Mohair proved to be the ultimate winter must-have, with her scarves flying off the shelf.

Last, but certainly not least, MSA proudly introduced international Mohair design prodigy, Steven Oo’s superb architectural knitwear pieces – a new favourite amongst A class celebrities, including Jessica Alba.

To find out more about Mohair visit www.mohair.co.za

MOHAIR SPARKLES IN SHANGHAI

T

he beautiful lustre, shine and the exceptional climate and absorbency qualities of the luxurious light weight Mohair fibre represents a large variety of opportunities in summer textile applications. Although Mohair has traditionally been known as an ideal winter fibre in countries such as Japan, China and Europe, Mohair SA felt that the exciting new offerings in Mohair yarn required to be exposed to the summer yarn buyers and fashion designers.

The summer edition of Spin Expo in Shanghai, which was held in March this year, offered the perfect opportunity.

Mohair SA joined forces with the UK yarn, colour and trend research extraordinaire and knitwear design specialist, Sophie Steller to coordinate a stand design at Spin Expo during March 2014.

The simplicity and stately elegance of the exhibition stand created an attractive space for the beautiful, smooth natural coloured yarns to take the shine on stage.

A big draw card to the stand was the actual applications of the yarn in swatches and designs which stimulated interaction and great interest. Visitors were amazed at the versatile use of the Mohair yarns.

With attendance figures reaching close on 11000, the show proved to be very valuable for exposure of the fibre to a very specific target audience.

The Mo-Bo-Go Mohair Bicycle.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 117

MOHAIR SA

Mohair shifts up a gear at the International Mohair Summit

A

s the major producer of Mohair in the world and as the leader in the marketing of Mohair fibre, it was strategically imperative to bring all the role players within the industry together in South Africa.

This motivation was the key in hosting the International Mohair Summit in the heart of the Mohair producing region of South Africa, namely the Karoo.

Jansenville was host to the second International Mohair Summit, held during October/ November 2013.

A total of 470 delegates attended over a three day period, discussing the important challenges and opportunities within the industry and paving the way for new opportunities and growth for the noble fibre.

Renowned guest speaker, South African born Colin Cowie, international celebrity event planner, producer and designer, author, TV host, lifestyle expert and style ambassador gave the guests at the Summit an in-depth look of the New Consumer in his presentation aptly called, Luxuryre-invented.

Another exciting item on the Summit programme was the prestige Ram Sale. A phenomenal price of R62 000 was achieved for breeder Jan Lategan’s ram sold to the Grootfontein Agricultural Developmental Institute.

118 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

MOHAIR PRODUCERS RAISE THE BAR South Africa: The Cream of the Mohair Produce The Mohair fibre is increasingly gaining the reputation as the ultimate choice in luxury natural fibres. The steep increase in demand over the past 18 to 24 months for the fibre, from all sectors of the globe, is confirmation to this bold statement. administered by Mohair SA, namely ErmenegildoZegna, Daidoh and Miyuki Keori, saw exceptional quality entries, driven by motivated Mohair producers.

M

ohair South Africa, in their role as the international generic marketing vehicle, has started to make inroads to earn the trust of the highly educated consumer, contributing to the surge in the quest for Mohair products. The excellent prices achieved this past summer istestimony of the excellent quality of Mohair produced by the dedicated producers in South Africa.

The three International competitions

The production of the excellent clip also received an additional boost with the Angora Ram Breeders launching their Sustainable Breeding campaign.

All the bales offered by the Ram Breeders will be identified by an Angora Ram Breeders mark.

The future of the fibre is indeed shining bright and the continuous strive to improve quality is paving the way for Mohair to take its’ place as the most luxurious and sustainable fibre in the world.

MOHAIR SA

The Mohair South Africa Board of Directors are: (from back left): Nico Stücken, David Nel, Mark Shires, Reinholdt du Randt (Chairman), Andries Greeff, Deon Saayman (General Manager), Rothner Bekker, Andrew Laing, Collin Martins. Seated in front: Linda Weyer-Henderson and Pierre van der Vyver (Vice-Chairman).

The South African Mohair Growers Association executive committee representatives: Weeber Truter, Jaco Oelofse, Neil Rossouw, Andries Greeff, Justin Coetzee (stepping down as General Manager), Coligny Stegmann, Petrie Maré (New General Manager) Front left: Rothner Bekker, Paul Broeksma, Cobus de Klerk (President), Mark Shires (Vice- President), Elna van den Bergh and retired member, Ray Hobson.

SOUTH AFRICAN MOHAIR INDUSTRY DRIVING FULL STEAM AHEAD

T

he South African Mohair Growers Association and Mohair South Africa held the

election for their Executive Board positions for the next year during June 2014 The Mohair industry has been working together in unison over the past few years and it is evident that the driving force behind the industry makes a big impact on the constant increase in

demand, good pricing and excellent clip delivery.

It was inevitable that both committees were re-elected unopposed to continue in their portfolios for the next year.

Reinhold du Randt and Pierre du Plessis van der Vyver has been re-elected as Chairman and Vice-Chairman of the Board of Mohair SA, whilst the leaders of the South African Mohair Growers Association also remained unchanged

with Cobus de Klerk and Mark Shires re-elected

as

President

and

Vice-

President respectively.

Deon

Saayman,

General

Manager

of Mohair South Africa says;”Our Executive Committees are a major contributing factor to the continual success of the industry in South Africa and we are very grateful

for

the commitment and knowledge they bring to the table.”

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 119

TURKEY

Baris Gelenbe

QUALITY TURKISH WOOL FROM AKEL TEKSTIL

by Victor Chesky

Akel Tekstil has been supplying scoured wool to Italian, Portuguese and Belgium manufacturers for many years. It specialises in greasy and scoured Turkish and European wools of 22 - 40 microns. I spoke with Baris Gelenbe and Omer Ozden at their Istanbul office about Turkish wools and the company plans for the future.

‘We supply manufacturers of top, bedding covers and mattresses, as well as fake fur products, and fabric, carpet and rugs manufacturers’, says Mr Gelenbe.

‘We produce high quality scoured wool and compete in both quality and price with the best processors around the world’, says Omer Ozden. ‘We are the only Turkish company to supply 20.2 micron scoured wool, approved by an accredited wool testing house report.’

‘Turkey is close enough that we can quickly travel to clients to see firsthand what machinery is being used and what product is being manufactured, to clearly determine the best scoured 120 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

wool for each individual client and each individual order’.

‘We offer a consistent quality to our customers in Europe’, says Mr Gelenbe. ‘And we are able to deliver the quality required by our longstanding customers’.

the knowledge and expertise to advise our customers on the best wools for their particular manufacturing needs’, says Mr Gelenbe who visits customers to see the machinery they are using and the products they are making to better advise them as to the best type of wools to give them the best result.

‘We are happy to send small shipments if needed and work with customers both big and small. The wool we deliver is always as per sample and we stand by the veracity of our wool’.

Akel’s scouring plant in Usak is being kept busy with a steady flow of Turkish and Romanian wool as well as a variety of European wool and wools from Australia, New Zealand and Britain. The wool is sorted and processed on commission, as well as for the company’s own use.

Large warehousing facilities are complemented by a new scouring line to keep up with demand. The company has a scouring capacity of 25 metric tons per day with two scouring lines. The scouring lines now have 8, 2 metre wide pools and dust machines.

The result is a better quality output.

AKEL has the capacity to supply 3500MT scoured wool & 5000MT greasy wool per annum.

The company supplies processors these wools, some of which are used for blending to reduce cost. ‘We have

Baris Gelenbe can be contacted at woolakel@gmail.com/ wool@akelwool.com

TURKEY

COMPETITIVE AND ON-TIME SUPPLY FROM MAFILO ‘We encourage Turkish spinning mills to contact us when they require competitive and on-time supply of scoured wool, carbonised wool, wooltops and speciality fibre’, says Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil. Mafilo offers New Zealand scoured wool, Australian carbonised wool, as well as tops from Uruguay. It also sells silk, cashmere and angora to major textile producers in Turkey. We also encourage overseas textile companies to contact us if they need representation in Turkey.

F

or more than 10 years Mafilo, based in Istanbul, has been an agent representing major suppliers and producers of wool and top from around the world. We can supply our customers with all types of wool and speciality fibre for worsted weaving yarn, flat knitting yarn, fancy yarn, hand knitting yarn, open end/ ring and semi-worsted and woolen carpet yarns. Our customers know that we can offer prompt reliable service. We are transparent in all of our dealings and all our clients know exactly which overseas supplier their wool comes from and that they will always get exactly what they ordered’.

‘In the past Australia was known as the main wool supplying country’, says Mr Atakoglu. ‘We specifically established Mafilo to provide a competitive alternative that includes wools from a variety of origins such as Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, as well as from Australia. We provide a reliable service, fast delivery, and competitive prices’. As well as importing wool and other speciality

Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil in his office in Istanbul

fibers into Turkey Mafilo also exports local and imported wools to markets beyond Europe,

including

China,

India and Iran.

Turkey is becoming a major market for wool and woollen products. It is a significant manufacturing and export market for a variety of textile products. The textile and apparel sector

is

the

highest

exporting

sector for the country’s economy.

As textile manufacturers in Turkey consume more and more fibre of all types our office in Istanbul is well located. Istanbul is on the doorstep of Europe, and we can provide a service to companies wishing to sell their products to the Turkish textile industry.

Mert Atakoglu can be contacted at mert@mafilo.com

WOOL MOHAIR CASMERE SILK ALPACA ANGORA MAFILO TEKSTIL - Cumhuriyet Cad No 189/8 34367 Harbiye Istanbul TURKEY Email wool@mafilo.com Tel. + 90 212 296 83 47 Fax + 90 212 296 77 38 122 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

ITALY

SPECIALIST AGENT FOCUSES ON WOOL AND SPECIALITY FIBERS Mauro Trapella recently took full control of Laniera Italiana. Mr Trapella has worked in the European wool industry for over 30 years and Laniera Italiana has been a player in the textile industry for 24 years.

L

aniera Italiana represents leading wool top companies from China, Uruguay, Argentina, Spain and Portugal. The company mainly offers Australian wool from 14,5 micron to 21 micron and extra fine wool is becoming more important.

ground level. We can access a

Laniera Italiana has traditionally been known as a supplier of South American wools. ‘From our inception we have been seen as a reference in the marketplace when it comes to South American wool sales. South American merino wool types provide options from coarse types to clean types for light colours and standard types.

ability to play a part in today’s

wide variety of products and provide

for

customer

need

and take advantage of current price opportunities and stock availability. This is a key to our competitive market.’

Companies contacting

interested Laniera

in

Italiana

should contact Mauro Trapella at wool@lanieraitaliana.it

Mauro Trapella

The company also sources scoured and greasy wool from European countries including Hungary, Germany, Holland, France, Spain, Portugal, and Romania. In the last decade China has been a preferred route for clients specialized in dehaired Cashmere and tops , Angora hair - hand selected, machine dehaired, Silk Mulberry e Tussha, and Camel hair. Laniera Italiana also offers Mohair, Alpaca, Llama, and Vicuna.

‘In recent years the trading conditions in Europe have changed quite dramatically’, says Mr Trapella.

‘We used to have, and in general there was substantial stock, of scoured wool and wool tops available in Europe, but in the last 5 years there has been virtually no stock available or mostly very little. We are now more and more involved with our clients in working on plans to import sufficient quantities for their use at the right time and at the most competitive price.’

Today Laniera Italiana has expanded its activities as regards clients and sources in China and in Turkey.

‘Today our activities in the international market place are part and parcel of our fundamental business model. We are able to quickly access wool as we know what the market situation is at WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 123

ITALY

PANTEX DIVERSIFIES AND BROADENS ITS HORIZONS

Piercarlo Zedda (left) and Giovanni Zedda.

EXTENSIVE PRODUCT RANGE FROM PANTEX The made-in-Italy label is a guarantee of quality recognized by everyone.

Today Italy is still the pinnacle of fashion and producer of the best fabric in the world. Pantex is a key contributor to this industry, supplying quality wool and tops.

‘New wool types have created an increase in business for us. Our business is growing and we are offering a more diverse range of products to reflect the needs of our customers. We are diversifying and changing in line with the industry and this is our strength’, says Piercarlo Zedda joint managing Director at Pantex. Pantex is based in the heart of Biella and is managed by Piercarlo Zedda and Giovanni Zedda.

Pantex continues to offer the most standard types in stock but if customers want something different, it can be sourced quickly.

Giovanni Zedda comments that more and more customers are approaching them for individual types of wool and tops for specific needs, and he remarks that the company can source and deliver to these needs because of it extensive world contact.

‘We provide a range of products and services and see ourselves as a one-stopshop. We have been setting standards in quality and product range for many years now’, says Mr Zedda. Pantex warehouse facilities are based in the heart of Biella, Italy and the company is represented throughout Europe.

‘We are well known for our fast delivery, wide range of products and competitive prices and have become more active in Europe’. Pantex has continued to expand and add new lines to its already extensive list of products. It has a strong network of suppliers around the world enable it to supply an extensive worldwide customer base. It operates a centralised operation for sorting, cleaning, blending and opening fibres.

Pantex has most standard types in stock, including wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized wools blend, and carbonized noils as well as combing wool-wastes, spinning woolwastes and weaving wool wastes.

The company also offers tops, open tops, re-combed tops, scoured wool from Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and Europe.

‘We provide a personalised ordering system and meet individual customer specification. Our good contacts in all wool producing countries ensure a good stock choice’.

All Pantex wool is brought to the plant and tested and classified. Long term contracts are available as well as one off buying from warehouses’.

Pantex has been trading for over 40 years and is quick to point out that they do not rely on agents but personally buys its greasy and processed wool, open tops and tops, and speciality fibre such as cashmere in big and small quantities. All wool sold is certified and Accredited with Interwoollabs.

‘We provide traceability assurance for all our greasy wool and we process it all here in Italy. This ensures that when a person buys a retail garment with a label that says ‘Made in Italy’, it is indeed made in Italy.

‘Many of our clients have been coming to us for more than 30 years. In fact most of our customers don’t even ask for a sample - delivery goes straight through because the quality of our wool products are so consistent. We welcome enquiries from companies that wish to sell their wool and woollen products to us as well as companies that wish to buy our wool’.

Piercarlo Zedda and Giovanni Zedda can be contacted by email at pantex@pantex-spa.it

124 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR BUYERS OF WOOL & TOP

PANTEX S.p.A.

SETTING THE STANDARD IN QUALITY

T O P S

O PE N TO P S SCOURED & CARBONISED WOOL RAW & CARBONISED WOOL

N O I L S A N D WA S T E S

ITALY

ITALIAN AGENT OFFERS QUICK AND RELIABLE SERVICE Despite increasing competition from newly industrializing countries, Italy’s textile industry has continued to be an important contributor to the domestic economy. Many observers attribute this resilience to the industry focus on quality.

B Mauro Delorenzi

iella, in Northern Italy, is traditionally known as a hub for companies involved in European wool and textile production and Greystone Wools has its office in the heart of this picturesque town.

‘We offer a service that is reliable and quick when supplying tops, open tops, scoured and carbonised wools from all origins as well as noble fibers such as dehaired cashmere and dehaired cashmere tops and angora’, says Mauro Delorenzi, who has been with Greystone Wools since 2006 and has 25 years experience working in the wool industry.

‘We supply scoured wools from New Zealand, scoured and carbonised wools from Australia and customers can contact us for their particular requirement types’.

The company supplies its customers with wool direct from origin on a fleece basis and has well established links to suppliers in New Zealand, Australia and in Europe and in most instances it can deliver within days if prompt delivery is required.

‘We are always looking to establish contact with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils around the world and I would be very happy to speak with new customers about their wool needs and to help them determine the most suitable wool currently available’, concludes Mr Delorenzi.

Mauro Delorenzi can be contacted in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E. mauro@gw-srl.it

126 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

INDIA

SUPERWASH PROCESSING FROM GLOBAL WOOL ALLIANCE INDIA Global Wool Alliance is a commission processing company that operates just outside Mumbai India. It operates a carbonising and topmaking plant that produces tops in the range of 18.5 - 24 microns.

G

lobal Wool Alliance is a part of the Lempriere Group but operates its commission processing to both Indian and international customers. The plant has the capacity to produce 4000 tons of wooltops per year and is GOTS certified for organic tops. The superwash line was constructed in Europe and commissioned at Global Wool in 2011 with annual treatment capacity of 1200 tons.

‘We are the only plant in India that can offer a superwash facility’, saysVishal Kapoor who works closely

with Global Wool Alliance from the Lempriere office in Melbourne Australia.’Customers can have their wool processed, from greasy all the way to tops, or supply tops for superwash treatment on tariff basis.

We offer a very flexible service to our customers, who can choose to have wool processed to any stage and our costs are very competitive.

India is one of the largest exporters of textiles in the world, surpassing nations like Germany, Italy and Bangladesh. It is one of the largest importers of greasy wool from Australia, New Zealand,

USA and Europe. ‘Any company that manufacturers yarn or fabric in India which requires shrink resist treatment would be better off to process their wool here’, says Mr JM Shah, General Manager

of

Global

Wool.

‘It

is

cheaper to import greasy wool into India compared to wooltops and we can offer a very quick turnaround, generally in 2 - 3 weeks from delivery.

We can handle batch sizes of 2 tons and larger on our superwash line.’

India’s

proximity

to

Europe

also

offers a quick turnaround time for any deliveries. ‘Our deliveries from India to any part of Europe is much quicker than from China. Global Wool Alliance is fully accredited with Oeketex and GOTS, and all detergents and chemicals are free of APEO and NPEO. WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 127

INDIA

INDIA INCREASES MARKET SHARE The Indian wool and woollen textile industry is the seventh-largest in the world. The industry employed more than 2.7 million people. Rajasthan is the largest producer of wool, accounting for approximately 30% of total production, followed by Karnataka at 17% and Jammu & Kashmir as the third-largest contributor accounting for approximately 16% share of total production. products. The UK (US$ 14.4 million) was the largest market for India woollen yarn, fabrics and made-ups, followed by Italy (US$ 11.3 million) and Dominican Republic (US$ 5.7 million).

According to India’s Apparel Export Promotion

Council

manufactures

Indian

shipped

out

textile about

US$40 billion worth of textiles in 2013-14, enough to put it in second place but lagging behind China (US $274 billion).

India’s market share is just barely above

I

5% of the total international export

ndia produces around 45 million kg of indigenous raw wool. Out of the total indigenous raw wool

production,

only

5%

is

apparel

grade, while 10% is coarse grade.

The remaining 85% is used for carpet manufacturing, which is a major

source of export earnings. Key markets and export destinations for wool exports (including wool yarn, fabrics, made-ups and readymade garments of wool) stood at US$ 508 million. The US and the EU are the major importers of Indian wool and wool-blended

scene. But, the rise to the position of number two textile exporter is nothing to be trifled with, considering that India ranked number six just one year ago, with about $33 billion in textile exports. It has surpassed nations like Germany, Italy and Bangladesh.

TOP AND YARN FROM JAYA SHREE IN DEMAND DOMESTICALLY AND INTERNATIONALLY

by Victor Chesky

J

aya Shree is taking a leading role in India’s wool export industry. It is one of the leading suppliers of woollen top and worsted spun yarn to some of the biggest brands in the world.

Its raw wool is sourced from the finest quality Merino wool from Australia, New Zealand & South Africa. Its wool combing division was established in early 1995, with the objective of integrating with its own worsted spinning unit. Today it has spread its wings globally and over recent years has emerged as a preferred choice for many spinners 128 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

INDIA

internationally as well as domestically. I spoke with Manoj Marda, Vice President (Wool Combing). ‘The quality of our wool tops and service are highly appreciated by our global customers and we are a preferred choice to top grade global spinners’, commented Mr Marda.

‘This quality, competitiveness and the service to customers has given us the impetus for us to grow to an annual capacity of 10 mkg wool tops and 3 mkg scoured wool today.’ Wool tops is delivered in 10 kg bump form in compressed seaworthy bale packing of about 320 kg.

‘Safe working condition and a focus on environmental sustainability are the team philosophy’, says Mr Marda. ‘As well as linen yarn and fabric we offer a wide basket of wool products, starting from WOOL TOPS in the micron range of 14.5 to 24.0 to worsted spun wool and wool-blend yarns in a count range 16 to 120 NM for weaving & knitting. Our recent addition of CASHMERE TOPS has further enriched our product basket’. The company has been operating for more than 18 years and sells its products in over 50 countries.

‘Our initiatives in manufacturing excellence, concern for the environment, health, safety and contributions to society are recognized by the accreditation of ISO 9001:2000, ISO 14001:2004, OHSAS 18001:2007 & SA 8000:2001 as well as Oekotex, class 1’.

CUSTOM-MADE WORSTED SPUN ECRU & DYED YARN AND KNITTING YARNS Jaya Shree offers custom-made worsted spun ecru & dyed yarn for application in apparel (suiting), knitwear, accessories (shawl, stole, etc.) and furnishing with an annual capacity of 4 mkg. ‘We have weaving yarn customers spread over all the 5 continents. Europe is the major suiting yarn market and our yarn is regarded there at par with top grade suppliers’, says Mr. Naveen Chandra, Assistant Vice President (Worsted). ‘Our product basket includes pure wool, wool/polyester, wool/nylon yarn, siro-spun, sirolycra, compact-spun & crepe yarns.

‘We have a variety of knitting yarns for flat-bed (sweater), circular (jersey) and socks in wool (normal or machine wash, total-easy-care) as well as wool blends with polyamide (nylon 66), acrylic, silk, bamboo, cashmere, mohair, etc.’, says Mr. Aloke Roy, General Manager (Worsted). ‘Nuvolana, our brand name for sweater knitting yarn, has won many nominations from international brands and nation-wide, is the most preferred yarn to match Italian quality’.

For more information about wool tops, please contact Mr. Manoj Marda at manoj.marda@adityabirla.com. For information on weaving yarn please contact naveen. chandra@adityabirla.com and for information on knitting yarn contact aloke.roy@adityabirla.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 129

INDIA

GLOBAL REACH FROM MODERN WOOLLENS

I

n 2014 India positioned itself as the second biggest exporter of textiles in the world after China.

According to the Apparel Exporter Council in India it has exported over $US40 billion in textile in 2013. It is also the second largest importer of wool from New Zealand, Australia, and the USA. Spearheading this export drive is Modern Woollens a vertically integrated manufacturer and exporter of Wooltops, 100% wool & blended worsted yarn, wool noil, wool grease and lanolin.

Modern Woollen’s manufacturing facility is based in Bhilwara district of Rajasthan, India. ‘Approx 70% of our production in yarn is exported to more than 25 countries across the globe including U.K, Italy, Spain, Portugal in Europe , Japan, Korea, Taiwan in Far East, Latin America, Middle East and African countries. Our commitment to achieve excellence in quality and service has made us a leading supplier to the garment industries around the world’, says Mr Rajesh Ranka (CMD) of Modern Woollens.

‘We operate the most modern European machinery including scouring from Petrie Mc Naught U.K, carding from Thibeau, combing & gilling from N. Schlumberger France for our production of wooltops. We have the capacity of 200 tons of wool tops per month. We have in-house well equipped tops dyeing plant with

an installed capacity of 120 tons per month. Dyeing of 100% wool or wool blended tops which gives us edge over our competitors to exports raw white as well as top dyed yarns to our buyers’.

The company also operates a spinning plant using in-house wool tops for their production of worsted raw white and Top Dyed yarns. The quality of production is being controlled and monitored by highly qualified technical people from greasy wool fibre to yarn. ‘It goes without saying’, says Mr Ranka ‘that we use good textile machinery in our spinning, dyeing and quality control departments. We use machines from NSC France, Cognitex from Italy, Zinser, Schlafhorst and Volkmann from Germany for all our international quality output. We have the capacity to process 1800 tons of worsted yarn for weaving & knitting end use’.

‘Our wool tops are processed from quality merino wool from Australia.

We generally produce wool tops in the micron range of 17 to 26 which is suitable for apparel and knit fabric.

Our wool tops are packed in 10kg bumps and the packaging is from good quality HDPE bags and tied with iron strips.’

The company also produces speciality yarn including wool/silk, wool/nylon, wool/Lycra and wool/cashmere. Its yarn count range is from 15 Nm to

110 Nm in single, double or 3 ply, SIRO and a conventional spinning system. Modern Woollens also offers all type of wool noil from 17.0 micron to 26.0 micron. Wool noil is packed in bales of 180 to 200 kgs with an annual capacity of 175 tons.

Modern Woollen is Oekotex 100 certified and enforces strict quality controls. It operates under well-equipped laboratory with Interwoollabs accreditation and uses measuring instruments such as Airflow for micron testing, UT-3 yarn tester, WIRA fibre diagram machine and moisture testing machine and others.

‘In 2010 we started to export wool grease and now have a capacity of 100 tons per annum. In 2012 we installed an anhydrous lanolin plant having capacity of 180 tons per annum. We have I P License from F.D.A to manufacture Anhydrous Lanolin which is pale yellow and used in cosmetics, skin ointments, and medicines production.

‘It is our objective to work together with our customers in order to develop new products to meet their ever changing needs.

‘Each and every stage of our production undergoes rigorous inspection in our well-equipped plant laboratory.

The consistent thrust of our business model is always cost effectiveness and the will to improve the quality of our products by process and technological improvement. The strength of our company is our ability to offer customers around the world a variety of products, excellent service, and good quality and prices’, Mr Rajesh Ranka (CMD) concludes.

For more information about Modern Woollens, its exports marketing team can be contacted by email at exports@modernwoollens.com Mr. Sujeet kumar (Vice President- Exports)

130 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

WOOLLENS (A UNIT OF MODERN THREADS (I) LTD.) 5, Bhima Building, Sir Pochkhanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai-400030 Tel- +91-22-24928622 / 23 • Fax- +91-22-24910220 • Email- Exports@Modernwoollens.com Factory: Hamirgarh Road, Dist. Bhilwara, Rajastan-311001, India.

Tel- +91-1482-241801/804 • Fax- +91-1482-242288 • Email- Infomum@Modernwoollens.com

GERMANY

SAFE HANDS AND SECURE STORAGE FOR WOOL IMPORTS TO EUROPE

W

hen importing greasy, scoured wool and wool tops into Europe, it is important to avoid the pitfalls of stringent customs regulations and exacting procedures that can cause shipments to be delayed and unnecessary costs to be incurred.

Therefore dealing with an experienced logistic and storage company saves time and money.

Benedykt Nadolski at one of two warehouses where wool and wool top is stored for customers from around the world

132 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Bremer Woll Services (BWS) provides safe pair of hands for all customs and import related procedures as well as secure storage facilities for exporters of wool and wool related products in Europe, utilising ex BWK warehousing facilities in Bremen, Germany. ‘We have extensive experience in handling wool and wool related products because we have been doing it for BWK for many years’, says Benedykt Nadolski Director of BWS. ‘Exporters of greasy, scoured wool and wool tops are under consistent pressure from their customers in Europe to deliver with speed and certainty. The competitive market in Europe today means that most customers cannot wait for 60 days for a consignment to be delivered from South Africa, Uruguay, China or Australia. It therefore makes sense to keep stock in safe secure storage in Europe for immediate delivery’,

says Mr Nadolskiwho has over 30 years experience in wool handling and transportation. He is also an experienced wool sorter and therefore understands wool and knows how to deal with it.

BWS is a storage company and is not involved in wool trading. It has secure warehousing facilities and can arrange transport to all destinations in Eastern and Western Europe. ‘We can hold exporters consignments in bonded warehousing and so forestall the 2% duty payable until it is sold. We have a fully computerized system and can handle all documentation for exporters from around the world from customs to delivering to bonded warehousing and final transportation to the end customer. We offer a very personal and competitive cost structure to our clients’, says Mr Nadolski.

Mr Nadolski can be contacted by email at :b.nadolski@bws-bremen.de

GERMANY

EXP SHRINKPROOF TOPS NEW strikes a cord Tops, anti-shrink treated tops and greasy wool are the main products Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH (BWHK) offers to its customers and stock on hand is a standard service. ‘We are known for quality in supplying finer types from 23 microns and finer. These types of tops are no longer widely produced in Europe, however we can supply and we can deliver quickly if required. Our European clients receive a just-in-time stock service on a wide selection of wool tops from our warehouse in Bremen’, says Jens Behrmann Director.

B

WHK operates an anti-shrink proofing plant processing superwash, non chlorinated EXP shrink proof wool, specialising in finer micron tops.

‘However, we have experienced a noticeable increase in demand for our EXP tops in the last 12 months’, says Mr Behrmann. EXP stands for “EX-Pollution”, or the avoidance of pollutants during the antifelting treatment process. EXP is a revolutionary new process from the Schoeller Spinning Group that enables the wool to remain machinewashable without the use of chlorine.

Schoeller has set a benchmark with this innovation and once again proven its commitment to ecological sustainability.

‘Yarn manufacturers today are increasingly demanding EXP tops to produce their yarn’, says Mr Behrmann.

It is friendlier to the environment and that is what the market is now demanding. As production in EXP increases in quantity costs will inevitably come down and smaller companies are expected to follow the trend.

‘One of our largest customers is Schoeller. We are proud to say that

some of our tops were used in the fabrics created by Schoeller for the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi’. Top athletes from around the world were competing in high-tech Schoeller fabric and medal recipients were among their number.

‘We used to produce about 80% of this basolan / superwash treated tops but now EXP non-chlorine tops is what our customers are interested in’.

BWHK is located in Bremen Germany.

This is an ideal location for quick and effective transport to customers as Bremen is major hub for transporting wool throughout Europe. It is near to the main deep sea ports of Bremerhaven and Hamburg that facilitates exports to overseas clients.

BWHK supplies organic certified wool tops. The supply-chain from the farm to the comber is IMO/GOTS certified, with a strong focus on environmental and socially responsible manufacturing, throughout the

Jens Behrmann BWHK Director

textile chain. It provides a credible and certified organic assurance to its downstream customers.

The company continues to supply EXP Non-chlorinated Anti-Shrink Wool Tops, is IMO/GOTS Certified and exclusive to BWHK. ‘It has a softer touch compared with conventional treatments and is odour free. This treatment also results in a brilliant white, superior colour compared with conventional treatments and superior nepp characteristics. It is also AntiShrink to TM31 Standards’, says Mr Behrmann.

‘Where other processors stick to the standard specifications when processing tops, at BWHK we constantly try to achieve the highest standards – thinking outside the square. We are always prepared to try new techniques’. BWHK sources and selects raw material using its long experience in determining what is best to buy to achieve the best quality product.

For more information about the products and services offered by Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH please email: info@brewoko.de WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 133

GERMANY

Klaus Gravert with a variety of products including silk, camel hair and scoured wool.

Frank Meyer (left) and Ralph Behnke with silk tops.

150

YEARS EXPERIENCE from MULTI NATURAL FIBRE MERCHANT

Stucken Melchers has been fibre trading for 150 years and today it is one of Europe’s leading textile and natural fibre merchants. It draws on many decades of experience in wool and speciality fibre.

T

oday the company specialises in an extensive range of speciality fibres, German and South American wool tops and scoured and carbonised wools and open tops from various origins. It is also well known as a supplier of silk, cashmere, camel, rabbit hair, angora, mohair, and other speciality fibres. It is Oekotex-100 certified for mulberry silk, tussah silk, camel wool, yak wool, and cashmere tops.

‘In addition we market the various products of Stucken Group’s wool & mohair processing and spinning operations in South Africa,’ says managing director Klaus Gravert from the head office in Bremen Germany.

Stucken Melchers sees its role as a source of supply and a distributor of high quality raw materials, as well as offering an all-encompassing service which is an essential aspect of a 134 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

modern fibre trading company today.

‘Our extensive stock ensures that we can supply our customers quickly. We have a warehouse in Biella, Italy as well as several other storage facilities throughout Europe. So, if a local customer contacts us in the morning we can deliver that same afternoon’, says managing director Frank Meyer who leads the company sales team.

scoured wools. ‘Our customers have been asking us to supply them with wool, so we have been doing more of this’, says Mr Meyer. ‘We supply European wools from all over Eastern and

Western

Europe,

particularly

German wools as well as South African carbonised wool and wool tops, and scoured wool tops from Australia’.

‘We are known as a company with

‘We also offer generous payment terms to our customers and above all we have a highly qualified team in place that is able to draw on many years of experience in their respective fields’.

the ability and expertise to source

The sales team includes Ralph Behnke who services customers in Western Europe and Tobias Beck who assists Mr Meyer with sales to Italy and Eastern Europe.

from companies that could benefit

In recent years the company has been effective in supplying greasy and

Melchers

the right fibre for specific use for our customers around the world. We offer generous payment terms to our customers and we welcome enquiries from tapping into our fibre supply and expertise,’ concludes Mr Meyer.

To obtain more information about the products available from Stucken Frank

Meyer

can

contacted at meyer@stuckmel.de

be

GERMANY

Are you looking for more customers?

A leading supplier of quality wool, speciality fibres and yarns

I

rrespective of how successful your business is today communicating with new buyers is important to staying ahead of your competition.

It is also important to constantly remind your existing customers that continuing to buy from you, not your competitor, is a benefit to them as well.

If telling 5000 companies around the world about what your company can offer sounds like an impossible task - advertise in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL and reach them all.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL magazine is circulated to buyers in more than 56 countries worldwide including Eastern and Western Europe, the UK, USA, South America, India and Australasia.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL is a trade directory that is published once each year (September).

It is circulation to 5000 textile companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool processors and topmakers, manufacturers of yarn, carpets and rugs, spinners and weavers, cloth and garment manufacturers including major brand names and major retail chains.

Many of these companies keep this publication and refer to it for their purchasing decisions over the coming year. The next issue of WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL will be published in September 2014.

Companies wishing to see the latest issue and find out more about advertising opportunities and costs should contact the Editor, Victor Chesky by email at victorch@bigpond.com.

Mulberry and tussah silk tops, noils and spun silk yarns, Angora rabbit hair, camel wool, yak wool and cashmere, dehaired and tops, Bamboo/ viscose, ramie, kapok and hemp, Mohair scoured, tops and yarns, Wool scoured, carbonised, tops, open tops and noils

STUCKEN MELCHERS GmbH & Co. KG Am Wall 162/163, 28195 Bremen, Germany www.stuckengroup.de Tel. +49-421-3 63 09-0 • Fax +49-421-3 63 09-55 fibre@stuckmel.de

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 135

GERMANY

RIGHT: Wool arrives at a Friedrich Sturm warehouse BELOW: Wool bales ready for shipment to customers around the wool

FRIEDRICH STURM SEES 20% GROWTH IN WOOL EXPORTS In recent years Sturm has become one of Germany’s largest and most efficient collectors and exporters of wool and animal by-products. Wool is collected almost exclusively from farmers and shearers. There is no mixing or blending with other wools of other origins. This specification assurance gives Friedrich Sturm a competitive advantage over other exporters.

G

reasy wool sales for Sturm Group have grown over 20% in the last year. In addition the company provides services to customers throughout Europe and functions as a European hub. Through Sturm other European wool producers can link the sale of their wool to customers around the world.

‘Today, when a customer opens a container he wants to be reassured that what is inside is exactly what he ordered. All our

136 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

wools are tested, offering clients the highest level of security regarding the product and its consistency. Every lot is sorted to client specification and it is tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE). We have an excellent knowledge in German wools and source the right wool for the right use for our customers’ and provide our shearers and farmers the best revenue for their wool, says John Semmelhaak Manager at Friedrich Sturm, in Hamburg Germany.

‘But our wool is 100% German wool.

And this’, says Mr Semmelhaak, ‘is the point of difference between us and some other exporters. We are able to guarantee that our wool is actually grown in Germany’.

Mr Semmelhaak travels extensively and frequently to his suppliers throughout Germany. This handson approach ensures that support to growers regarding collection, logistics,

GERMANY

and sorting remains transparent. ‘Our customers and suppliers know exactly where they stand in their relationship with us and feel secure that the information we provide regarding sorting, transportation and delivery times for their wool is transparent.’

To enhance its service to customers the company hasopened a new warehouse in the east and south east of Germany where wool is collected and a second baling press has been installed. This additional new press enables the company to pack 400kg bales as it is standard already from the main depot in Tönning. It allows for a better more streamlined logistics practice.

‘The sorting facilities in these warehouses are excellent and we are lucky to have very experienced sorting personnel so the result is precise and accurate and has increased speed and efficiency.’ The company operates a 6m long, 1.5m wide moving conveyor belt. After sorting, the wool continues

along the conveyor belt until it drops into the bale compressor where it is pressed and packed in approx. 400 kg bales.

Germany has been producing excellent coarser wool types 30 - 37 microns and also finer merino wool of 28 - 30 microns. This is due to consistently improving wool farming practices as well as its North Sea climate.

German wool has been very consistent in recent years, particularly regarding characteristics, low VM, length and colour. It is well regarded by scourers and spinners who predominantly buy European wools.

Sturm collects its wools from Schleswig-Holstein in Germany’s West, Centre and Eastern regions. Schleswig-Holstein is a particularly famous wool growing region in Germany just North of Hamburg.

Wool Specification List Eider

34 / 37 my

65/70

8 - 12 cm

Merino I

28 / 30 my

58/62

5 - 9 cm

Merino II

30 / 32 my

58/63

5 - 9 cm

Schwarzkopf

30 / 34 my

58/64

7 - 9 cm

Brown

33 / 36 my

58/62

8 - 9 cm

Schnucken

38 / 42 my

55/65

8 - 15 cm

For more information about Friedrich Sturm please contact John Semmelhaak at jrs@frsturm.de

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 137

WOOL LOGISTICS

Thomas Fuhrmann with huge volumes of rules and regulations that apply to wool importation to Europe

LOGISTICS HEADACHES HANDLED BY KES DISTRI ‘We offer 100% secure wool logistics. Our services include in house customs clearance and delivery payment insurance. We provide a service that is stress free for our customers. It is better to leave the paper work to us. We are experienced in official procedures. All paperwork is strictly confidential and as Kes Distri does not trade wool there is no conflict of interest with our customers’, Thomas Fuhrmann director at KES DISTRI in Bremen Germany.

‘The importation of fibre into Europe

countries. ‘When an exporter entrusts

can be very complicated for companies

us with their wool we manage sea

outside Europe. Europe has a complex

transportation,

bureaucratic system with regard to

delivery to our warehouse, secure

customs and tax issues. The rules and

storage, wool testing by an accredited

regulations are becoming increasingly

wool testing house, and delivery of

complicated and choosing the right

the wool lot to its final destination’,

transportation

save

says Mr Fuhrmann. The customs

a lot of time and trouble’, says Mr

department in Bremen is used to

Fuhrmann.

wool being imported and with our

channels

can

KES DISTRI works with exporters of greasy wool, as well as importers of tops and yarn, and traders and

customs

clearance,

assistance all custom and duty tax is made easy, as it is something we do every day’.

wool merchants from South Africa,

‘As a logistics company we have a

Australia, New Zealand, China and

team dedicated to staying up to date

South

regarding these regulations. In the long

America

and

many

other

138 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

run it is cheaper and less problematic to import wool via Bremen and truck it to its final destination whether that be in Italy or further afield into a growing Eastern European market’, says Mr Fuhrmann.

KES DISTRI has been transporting wool and natural fibres for more than 40 years. It operates a large transport fleet, modern trans-shipment facility and warehouse, and a reliable, individual customer service. It is part of Ypsen Logistics Bremen Group that employs over 1500 workers.

More than 150 wool companies from all around the world use their services

WOOL LOGISTICS

for storage and delivery requirements. ‘We offer prompt delivery, from one bale to 60 and more. Our experienced team can take control of all your logistical needs, avoiding long delays and additional costs for storage at customs depots and other fees. Your wool is safe with us and will not be delivered and released to the purchaser until all contractual obligations are satisfied’, says Harry Starkus, company director, who liaises with customers around the world.

‘We can make this guarantee because wool lots delivered to the KES DISTRI warehouse from the client remains under the ownership of the client, and will not be delivered and released to the purchaser until all contractual obligations are satisfied. And as the wool is not delivered to the buyer until we have clear instruction from the owner the system is safe and straightforward’.

KES DISTRI is accredited with IWTO testing houses and can perform core tests at its warehouse facility. Testing certificates are delivered directly to nominated parties. KES DISTRI is also GOTS certified for storage and processing of organic products.

As well as safe secure transportation services KES DISTRI also provides sellers of wool tops and yarn storage facility, and on the spot selling to customers. It makes future sales for companies looking for smaller quantity and immediate quick delivery all over Europe in small or big quantities.

‘This allows importers to use our storage facility as a retail floor, where they can view available products via our website and make sales for bigger or smaller lots as required. Of course, the owner can track these sales via our secure website as well’. www.kes-bremen.de For more information please contact Harry Starkus at Harry.Starkus@kes-bremen.de

Nick Chen, from Red Sun, wool top export company from China visiting Harry Starkus at KES DISTRI warehouse in Bremen

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 139

HUNGARY

HUNGARIAN WOOL

FROM LOCAL EXPORT COMPANY

‘We export 100% Hungarian fleece’, says János Vass, company director at Hungarowool. ‘Over the years the quality of Hungarian merino wool has been improved by the introduction of Australian merino. Our company guarantees its product and we provide testing certificates from Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE)’.

János Vass (left) with local farmer - Hungarian sheep kept inside and protected from harsh winter conditions for 3 months of the year

140 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Past testing of Hungarian wool by New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA) has shown the staple strength at 35 N/KT. This result demonstrated that there was no weak positioning along the fibre and that it could be used by spinners at

HUNGARY

You will love what these magazines can do for your business a maximum speed with minimum breakage / downtime. The company offers Hungarian merino wool in the 23 – 24.5micron range. ‘Hungarian wool vm is in a range is 1.5 to 2.5% because the sheep are kept inside for 3 months of the year’, says Mr Vass.

‘Our wool is good for top making’.

Hungarowool packs wool for export in 24 ton container lots. Each bale is packed in 350 – 400 kg bales in jute or synthetic packaging.

Hungarowool was established in 1997 and János Vass, has been working in the local wool industry for over 30 years. Hungarian Wool Industry is a relatively small industry with around 1 – 1.2 million sheep. ‘We know the farmers and we know the sheep. We collect the wool from these farms and sort to individual client specification in our two warehouses. The wool is then sorted and packed for export.

‘We also have good relationships with wool producers in neighbouring countries such as Romania and we are able to sell their wool on request’, says Mr Vass.

Hungarowool office is situated in the picturesque Hungarian countryside surrounded by farms less than two hours drive from the capital city of Budapest. ‘Our location, in the middle of Europe, also provides for good logistics for delivering wool anywhere in Europe and around the world if required. We invite interested buyers to visit us in Kiskunfelegyhaza to view our pure Hungarian merino wool’.

For more information about Hungarian Merino Wool please contact János Vass at hungarowool@freemail.hu

Reach buyers worldwide by Advertising in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL & WOOL EXPORTER (CHINA) magazines • business to business trade directory circulation 10,000 copies in more than 48 countries worldwide • protect your market share and reinforce your position as a preferred supplier to your existing clients • attract new business - by promoting your company and its products to this targeted readership • cost effective way to reach new clients and your existing customer base • place an advertisement and a Company Profile article - to tell buyers why they should buy from you and not from your competition • these magazines are kept and referred to by our readers as a buyers’ guide for their purchasing needs for the year ahead • published only once each year (September) - don’t miss this once a year opportunity - book your advertising space now If you require any further information please contact: Victor Chesky at victorch@bigpond.com

www.woolnews.net

PO Box 11, South Caulfield, Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia Tel: +61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: +61 3 9533 0727 • Mob: +61 402 076676

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 141

SPAIN

SPANISH WOOL OFFERS

ALTERNATIVE TO WOOL PROCESSORS

As wool prices continue to climb processors around the world will always be looking for quality alternatives that are price competitive. Although characteristics of Spanish merino are different to Australian and South African merino wool it does offer alternative advantages to processors worldwide.

L

from 22 microns up to 37 microns, and specializes in Spanish merino wool from 22.5 to 23.5 microns with a length of between 56 to 60 mm.

Lanas Cuesta works with all kinds of wools, but principally Spanish wool

Lanas Cuesta exports wool that is 100% pure wool and can also supply French and Portuguese wool if required.

‘Currently our main export product is greasy merino wool in the range of 23-24 microns. We also work with other kinds of wool up to 32 microns.

anas Cuesta exports wool top, scoured wool, noils and greasy wool to Europe, Africa, Asia and America. Company directors Juan Antonio Cuesta and Pablo Cuesta are well known to the European wool trade and have some 30 years of experience in trading and processing European wools.

142 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

We always provide test certificates to our clients from Wool Testing Authority Europe. These tests include micron, yield and vegetable matter information’, says Pablo Cuesta, joint director.

‘We source our wool direct from farmers and farm co-operatives, predominantly from the south of Spain. We have warehouses throughout Spain with experienced and dedicated

SPAIN

staff who undertake the classification of the wool. We also source wool from other wool merchants when specific wool types are required by our clients’, says Mr Cuesta.

‘We can provide the facility for wool washing or we can work with other commission combers to make use of their processing facilities. We comb our wools in different combing plants in Spain, Portugal and Italy, always ensuring that client specifications are followed’.

The demand for Spanish wool has been on the increase and Lanas Cuesta has been connecting with buyers around the world through agents and direct business.

‘Our handling procedures in relation to shipping and transportation are well established, enabling hassle free and speedy delivery’.

‘We welcome enquiries from wool buyers that are interested in tapping

Pablo Cuesta (left) and Juan Antonio Cuesta

into our experience in the wool trade’, says Pablo Cuesta, joint director.

For more information about the products and services offered by Lanas Cuesta please contact Pablo Cuesta at lanascuesta@lanascuesta.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 143

WOOL IN BEDDING

Treated wool - in high demand by the bedding industry

BEDDING MANUFACTURERS DEMAND ECO FRIENDLY WOOL PRODUCTS An increase in demand for eco friendly bedding products by consumers has fuelled a resurgence in production. ‘This demand from the consumer for such non toxic natural textile products has been a challenge to the wool processing industry’, says Albert Chippendale at Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB). SPB was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant.

T

he company is a commission wool processor and provides services in shrink resistant

wool processing for topmakers and spinners. any other shrink proofing technique’, Mr

Chippendale.

For

the

consumer who prefers a process which does not incorporate chlorine, SPB has developed its own process to render the wool machine washable without the use of chlorine.

144 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

drinking water!

The Kroy system of chlorination control eliminates inconsistencies in earlier wool shrink proofing processes.

‘We use Kroy because it out performs says

his plant contain less chlorine than

The superior results include improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties

and

reduced

pilling

especially for fine sweaters, hosiery, underwear and knitting yarns. ‘We have a lot of experience using this treatment. Our company is 100% independent and we are not aligned to

However as Mr Chippendale points

any other wool export company. As an

out even chlorine treated wool from

independent commission processor,

WOOL IN BEDDING

customers can send their wool to us for treatment, with confidence that it will be processed to their specification.

We do not process our own wool. We have a quick turnaround and customers usually receive their product back within days. Our clients are our priority’, says Mr Chippendale.

A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due to compacting or felting and can prolong its life considerably.

‘The Kroy treatment method is tried and tested to providing machine washable wool which will last the useable lifetime of the product. This system of chlorination control eliminates inconsistencies associated with earlier wool shrink proofing processes. It provides superior results with the additional advantages of improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced pilling’.

‘Our equipment is controlled electronically using inverters and is operated from a central control panel. Our operators can adjust a variety of parameters to optimise the process for each particular end-product. Fume extraction and fume-scrubbing equipment is supplied to ensure operator safety and to satisfy stringent environmental standards.’

‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. We offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’, says Mr Chippendale.

OEKO TEX is an independent testing and certification system for textile products from all stages of production (fibres, yarns, fabrics, ready-to-use end products, including accessories) along the textile value chain and is particularly important for bedding manufacturers such as SPB that offer products for children’s bedding.

There are many benefits to SPB’s treated wool and the processing is constantly monitored to the highest standards. It gives the manufacturer and consumer alike, maximum added value at minimal cost.

‘We know European wools and we know how to get the best out of European wools’, says Mr Chippendale. Sending wool to Asia is not the most cost effective way to achieve the best result insists Mr Chippendale. The company is located in Bradford UK and is central to Europe, always an advantage to quick transportation and delivery.

For more information about SPB eco friendly bedding products please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 145

WOOL IN BEDDING

KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE IS EVERYTHING WHEN IT COMES TO BEDDING WOOL For 144 years Michell Wool and their experienced and long serving team have continued to set the pace in the meeting their clients ever changing needs in the manufacture of bedding wool products.

Australia has now moved to the Michell Suzhou factory. MycraLoft™ uses a three dimensional combing process developed by Michell that produces a wool fibre specifically designed to meet the needs of the bedding industry: high-loft, easycare, washable and tumble dryable, antimicrobial, easy to process, durable and clean. The R&D team in China are currently working to further improve the quality of this product to meet the changing needs of the Chinese bedding market.

Felt Wool produced by Michell uses a special 3D opening process. This has two effects, firstly it assists the natural ability of wool to felt. Secondly, it makes Michell felt wool the cleanest wool for felting with virtually no impurities.

Andrew Liang General Manager - China (for Michell wool) - checking quality to ensure customer satisfaction

M

ichell Wool provide a wide range of products and processes to the bedding and home textile industry.

“Constant innovation is the key to meeting and exceeding our clients expectations. We are constantly reviewing all our manufacturing processes with a view to improving quality and we are consistently asking our clients what they want and need to compete in a fast moving world bedding and home textile market” said Steven Read, CEO Michell Wool The Michell loose wool super wash process that provides machine washable wool for the

bedding industry has seen vast and substantial improvements over recent decades. As one of world’s leading machine washable wool suppliers, Michell Wool have continued to remain at the forefront of these advances. The loose wool super wash process is offered on both our carbonised and scoured wool types and the product passes TM31 tests and is machine washable and tumble dryable. Mycraloft is APEO free and OekoTex Baby Class 1 certified.

Mycraloft™ is a good example of that innovation, the proprietary combing technology originally developed and piloted in

146 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Michell Wool’s years of expertise are involved in producing wool tops for the sliver knit market and making more economical for the sliver knitters has made this product highly sought after. Using carefully selected wool and processing technology, Michell offers a range of wool top products specifically made for the pile fabric and bedding sector. The ability to alter the length of the top to make it the optimum length for performance and at the same time minimise wastage.

When you add this to the already impressive list of products available at the Michell Suzhou and Australian plants you can understand why Michell leads the market in the production of bedding grade wool.

Michell Wool utilises its 144 years of experience and expertise in processing wool to match the correct processing specification to produce the highest quality wool product. This ensures the carbonising or scouring process meets or exceeds the customer’s expectations and is matched with the most efficient logistics to guarantee on time delivery.

TEXTILE MACHINERY

INTELLIGENT MECHANICAL SOLUTIONS FROM

COPPA BIELLA

Coppa Biella is a leader in the production of accessory equipment for textile machinery. Combs are the result of 40 years experience in this field and are made of the highest quality steel using highly accurate processes and the most modern machines. The company can supply combs for all machines.

cycle. Â Ongoing collaboration with leading

manufacturers

of their business.

Coppa Biella is also internationally recognized in the medical industry, and by manufacturers of machines

has been operating since 1945 and

by the most up-to-date technology

benefited from the technical and

and the product undergoes the most

entrepreneurial skills of Mr. Domenico

rigorous tests.

Cup to consolidate its current position.Â

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products have longevity, durability,

to

the

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minimum maintenance and simple

of

their

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equipment used in the production

machinery,

capabilities plant

and

textile

linen and woollen fibres are a feature

The head-treatments are carried out

technological

of

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in packaging films. Over the years it has grown while still maintaining the characteristics of craftsmanship and innovation that have been essential to

E: mailbox3@coppabiella.it www.coppabiella.it

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 147

TEXTILE MACHINERY

TRANSFORMING FIBRE INTO YARN THE LATEST INNOVATIONS FROM NSC Textile manufacturers around the world are being challenged to achieve more cost efficient production. Manufacturers are also under increasing pressure from their customers to provide environmentally friendly certified products throughout the production pipeline. To achieve these goals manufacturers are installing new machinery that is more cost effective and environmentally friendly, as well as upgrading their existing machinery with innovate new parts.

T

rue to the company philosophy in innovation this year the company unveiled a new worsted card. The GN8 intersecting machine was specially designed for very fine high end fibre such as silk, yak and cashmere. (See separate article about GN8).

In the last 18 months the company has been busy supplying other new equipment and upgrading existing machinery for a number of fibre processors around the world.

‘Customers today appreciate that to stay competitive they need the latest textile machinery available.

The machinery that is user friendly, highly automated, saves money on energy and has low operational and maintenance costs and is therefore more cost effective. To achieve savings we definitely see new machinery as a preferred option. Our customers that have upgraded to the latest models

experience a faster turn-around, better quality outcome and more trouble free production’, says Patrick Strehle, Commercial Director at NSC whose head office is in Guebwiller France.

As an example Mr Strehle points to is the latest ERA combing machine.

‘This latest machine has a very high production capacity. It combs at more than 50kg per hour for a 21/22 micron wool and in recombing 2.5 - 3 kg per hour for grey wool. This machine guarantees a high quality of combing and is very gentle to the fibre. It can increase productivity by 25%.

All NSC fibre to yarn machinery is equipped with highly efficient motors (class IE2) for engines with 0.75 to 375kW. This is fully compliant with a new directive by EuP Technical Europe Lot 11 that supports the new IEC 60034-30 standard classification performance of electric motors. Also

Patrick Strehle with a new gills being assembled at nsc factory in Guebwiller, France for a customer in eastern Europe 148 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

high in demand is the GC30 chain gill, with a delivery speed that reaches 600m/min. The D3/D5 GC30 blender defelter is a GC30 with a defelter and blending zone, can also be equipped with an electronic autoleveller.

‘We have developed textile machinery with the latest technology for a variety of customer needs including small and big operations. We are well positioned to deliver customers fully integrated systems and deliver complete production lines from fibre opening and blending to finished bobbins. We work with other leading machinery manufacturers to supply specific equipment that is not in our product range but is complementary to it, and we manage installation from start to finish. We provide our customers guarantees and assurances’, says Mr Strehle.

‘After sales service and customer care is also an integral part of our business. We have representatives in many key locations around the world. We provide a friendly, fast, and meticulous spare parts service using genuine manufacturer’s spare parts.

Our after sales team are expert in all technical issues and we can provide training courses for our customers’ staff. We also offer programs in audits for existing machines, kits for machine renewal and ongoing maintenance programs.’

For more information please contact: Patrick STREHLE, e-mail: Patrick.strehle@nsc.fr Tel : +33 (0) 3 89 74 41 41

TEXTILE MACHINERY

NEW DE-DUSTING MACHINERY

MORE ECONOMICAL AND MORE EFFECTIVE Environmental issues in manufacturing are becoming increasingly important internationally and Tecnomeccanica has many cost saving devices that are being used by more and more manufacturing companies.

ERA COMBING MACHINE > Progressive combing, uniform speed of circular comb, pinned on 360° > Reduced amplitude of carriage and detached rollers in motions > Very high quality tops > High productivity, more than 50kg/hr in 21/22 wool > Textile adjustments from machine screen or centralised > Memorised recipes for work parameters and easy reproduction > Decrease in operational and maintenance costs > Possibility of machine interconnection and remote adjustments

‘Our de-dusting machinery – dust from plant in top making – is being used as an environmental necessity, but this machine uses half the electricity that the old models used. The greater the automation introduced at all levels of production the greater the savings. The less labour intensive the process is, the greater are the long term savings’, says Mario Ploner Commercial Director of Tecnomeccanica Biellese.

‘We have recently installed new preparation machines and dedusting machines at Kahvol in

Belarus, and in Indorama in Thailand. These machines reduce contamination from scoured wool and this is especially relevant to processing plants that use Eastern European wools with significant amounts of contamination. The benefit that these machines afford at the scouring level is significant’, says Mr Ploner.

New de-duster developed by Tecnomeccanica - installed in Indorama Thailand and Kahvol Belarus. For more information please contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

> Telediagnostic (optional)

CA6 AND CA7 SEMI WORSTED CARD – ONE OF THE MANY TOP MAKING MACHINES OFFERED BY NSC FIBRE TO YARN - FROM ITS INNOVATIVE PRODUCTION RANGE > For all types of wools > 2.5 to 3.5m working width > CA7 TRIO card for wools with high VM > CXF hopper feeder > TRE/TRD drafting head > Integrated suction > Screen control

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 149

TEXTILE MACHINERY

BELOW: Blending plant designed and manufactured by Tecnomeccanica MIDDLE: New feeder developed by Tecnomeccanica installed in Indorama Thailand and Kahvol Belarus – this feeder is compatible and specifically designed to fit with NSC combs for both wool and synthetics. It is also compatible with new NSC GN8 RIGHT: Mario Ploner Commercial Director Tecnomeccanica

COMMERCIAL REALITIES FORCE COMPANIES TO UPGRADE

Greater competition in the textile industry is forcing companies to manufacture better quality products without increasing costs. To achieve this manufacturers need the latest technology.

‘To produce quality textile products that meet the right environmental credentials, fibre processors must use the most up-to-date textile machinery.

Changes in environmental laws has already forced many companies to upgrade their textile machinery. Old and second hand textile machinery can no longer meet today’s demands’, says Mario Ploner commercial director at Tecnomeccanica.

Tecnomeccanica, synonymous with innovation in textile machinery has been a world leader in the design, manufacture and installation of machinery for staple fibre processing, combing and spinning for more than 45 years.

Tecnomeccanica is particularly well known for supplying combing mills around the world with technology for opening, beating and blending greasy wool using automatic feeding to 150 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

scouring lines. It is also a well known supplier of blending equipment for woollen and semi worsted spinning and supplies semi and fully automatic plants for preparing blending, dust removal and automatic feeding of carding machines.

‘We can provide the latest machinery to assist combers in areas of beating and de-dusting of scoured wool, pneumatic transport to automatic storage bins for scoured wool and card feeding. We also design and install suction and recycling units for byproducts from carding and combing departments’.

‘Our machines have been used by wool processors and textile manufacturers all around the world for such companies as Loro Piano, Zegna, Modiano, RedaBarberis, Miroglio and many others’.

‘We are well aware of the challenges

faced by fibre processors and we work together with them to achieve the best possible result in the most competitive way’, he added.

‘We can upgrade or renovate existing machinery should a company need our expertise. We always respond to our clients needs with upgrading and implementing new innovation into their existing structure. But the future definitely belongs to new and advancing machinery’.

Tecnomeccanica has the ability to implement its technology while working within the existing space and machinery of individual clients. It is often favoured for its ability to be extremely flexible when working with customers no matter where they are based.

For more information please contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

TEXTILE MACHINERY

TECNOMECCANICA’S NEW BURR-BEATERS FOR WOOLLEN CARDS PERFORMING WELL AROUND THE WORLD A new innovative design for Burr-Beaters for Woollen Cards by Tecnomeccanica have been tested at top making plants in Europe and South America. ‘Our Burr-Beaters have been tested thoroughly and are performing well in plants at Modiano in Czech Republic, Engraw, Tops Fray Marcos and Lanas Trinidad in Uruguay’, says Mario Ploner of Tecnomeccanica in Biella Italy.

‘These Burr-Beaters have been running for some time now and we are very happy with their performance’.

T

he new design has a variable number of knives (from 30 to 46) embodied in the cylinder. They are perfectly straight and hardened in order to remove all vegetable matter from the wool. Each woollen card has 3 or 4 Burr Beaters (Chasseurs) and these must be removed every 6 months. Each cylinder works for 6 months in a clockwise direction and can then be utilized for a further period in the opposite direction. After this double usage grinding will only reduce to a maximum of 1mm on its radius (2 mm in diameter). After 4 grindings the diameter becomes too small and the complete cylinder must be replaced.

All cylinders can be fitted into existing machinery.

Tecnomeccanica can 152 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

supply cylinders only, as separate parts or they can install the complete bearing. For some time now woollen mills around the world have found that replacing their Burr Beaters has become more difficult and more costly.

We have developed a new design that lasts longer and is more competitively priced than other models currently available on the market. Our new design is a special cylinder that turns quickly and can be adjusted very closely to the morrel. It fits all existing machinery and is usually tailor made for each machine’.

‘The average life span is a maximum 5 years so if you consider that a top maker working with n.8 cards like the Thibeau CA6 is using a minimum of 24 cylinders every 5 years, this is

excellent value for money’, says Mr Ploner.

‘Our Burr Beaters can be constructed for THIBEAU CARDS CA 6 AND CA7 and also for OCTIR and for woollen cards. They are produced in a working width of 2500mm or 3500mm and are dynamically balanced to run up to 1600 rpm. Flayers are hardened in a special combination of nickel, chrome and steel to ensure a long life and a perfect result. Wide cylinder has a conical shape to copy the flections in order to achieve a straight surface in the working point against the morrell.

We can also supply the spare burrs collector box constructed in sizes according to the existing machine’.

For further technical information please contact mario@tbsrl.it

s e in h c a m e c n a m r fo r e p p to r Technology and quality fo

otes innovative Sant’Andrea Novara prom lines. and efficient production ns and Sant’Andrea Novara desig e of solutions manufactures a wide rang fibres: for natural and synthetic

making lines recombing lines • Defelting, blending and • Tow to top lines

• Top

SANT’ANDREA TEXTILE MACHINES SRL TEL. +39 0321 3721 Info@santandreanovaraspa.com

TEXTILE MACHINERY

BELOW: SH multi-head drawing frame - a unique pre-spinning drawing frame for high quality results RIGHT ABOVE: VSN Draw Frame RIGHT BELOW: RF5 vertical rubbing frame from Sant’ Andrea Novara

SANT’ ANDREA NOVARA BUSINESS AS USUAL Sant’ Andrea has been taken over by Tecnomeccanica, a well known textile machinery manufacturer based in Biella Italy. Under new ownership, but business as usual, says the management team at Sant’ Andrea Novara. Sant’ Andrea has been supplying textile machinery since 1928 and is a leader in the manufacture of topmaking lines, defelting, blending and recombing lines. The company has been supplying tow to top lines and semi-worsted lines to processors around the world.

S

ant’ Andrea Novara is a brand leader in high-performance machinery for top making, blending and spinning in the sector of wool and other fibres.

Today combers, spinners and weavers must manufacture their products at great speed, in great quantities and at a great price, and the only way to achieve this is to use the latest technology that is offered by leading textile machinery manufacturers.

154 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

‘The investment we have made in research and development has enabled us to offer the most advanced textile machinery. Our Sant’ Andrea Novara machines are a benchmark in terms of quality and efficiency’, says a company spokesman.

ratch settings on the RF5 drafting assemblies can be adjusted through a servo-control mechanism, in between feeding and drafting, allowing fibre control to all diagrams. The modular design means that it can run at all times.

RF5 is a vertical finisher with a double apron. It produces a high quality of sliver at maximum speed with 2200 strokes per minute with a speed of up to 300 metres per minute. The

The main construction features which determined the success of the earlier RF 4 model (modular structure and double rubbing) have not changed in the new vertical finisher but its

TEXTILE MACHINERY

performance is improved by new technical solutions. It has an excellent working speed and is mechanically reliability, and in terms of efficiency and quality results is considered the most advanced in its field. The RF5 is available in two versions, to meet any process needs. The RF5a version is recommended for fine and extrafine counts and special fibres like cachemire and silk, while the RF5b version is suitable for medium/large counts and high production speeds.

The SH multi-head drawing frame is another line favoured by textile processors around the world. The new SH drawing frame is used for the preparation to spinning of wool-

diagram fibres. The Multi-head drawing frame has separate sliver paths to eliminate any “marriage”.

Intersecting-disc control heads with rotating disk movement guarantees the delicate handling of the fibres and the excellent quality results.

The multi-head drawing frame SH is equipped with the new Dialoguer user machine interface. The version by apron control is specific for finest yearns and cachemire.

Sant’ Andrea Novara also markets machinery specifically dedicated to cashmere fibre processing - The Sant’ Andrea Novara VSN draw frame is capable of working this precious fibre. The screw gills VSN guarantees

Sell or buy wool, tops, or yarn online 24 hours a day

an optimal quality with increased production. Customers include some of the most important and prominent names in Italian cashmere.

Another key machine from the Sant Andrea Novara line is the 2MD/C blanding machine. Used often to increase blend homogenity and different kinds of fibres and colours.

Small floor size allows worker easy operation and high efficiency.

2M is composed from 2 screw parallel heads VSN head 1 reduction head in rotodisk or fallers version. Adapt for all fibres is a first step of the preparation line to obtain high quality and performance on the passages following.

Check this out at www.woolbuy.net

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 155

WOOL TESTING

INTERWOOLLABS ACCREDITATION FOR THE EXCEPTIONAL

Interwoollabs strives to ensure that all of our members reach the highest standards of testing accuracy, and achieve our prestigious INTERWOOLLABS accreditation Stamp and Certificate.

John Lambert

W

e are a not for profit organisation owned and run by our members.

During the 38th IWTO Paris Congress in June 1969 the International Association of Wool Textile Laboratories (INTERWOOLLABS) was set up. Its main tasks were: 1. To develop co-operation between member-laboratories with a view to ensuring the most correct and uniform application of the approved testing and sampling methods as set out in the IWTO Specificationsand in any associated IWTO Regulations; 2. To ensure that member-laboratories obtain accurate test results having a high level of precision, in their application of those specific IWTO test methods and procedures which are relevant to INTERWOOLLABS’ approved annual work programmes; and 3. To assist member-laboratories in resolving disputes arising from differences in test results, by ascertaining the causes of any discrepancies.

At the request of IWTO INTERWOOLLABS set up laboratory harmonisation programmes in the following areas: • Fineness measurement of wool tops using the Airflow apparatus (IWTO-6) in 1969; 156 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

• Fineness measurement of wool tops using the Projection Microscope (IWTO-8) in 1970; • Fibre Length measurement of wool tops using the Almeter (IWTO-17) in 1972; • Fineness measurement of wool tops using the Laserscan apparatus (IWTO-12) in 1996; and • Fineness measurement of wool tops using the OFDA100 apparatus (IWTO-47) in 1996.

INTERWOOLLABS established the first set of Fineness Calibration Tops covering the range from 17.8µm to 35.0µm in 1972 to improve the harmonisation between laboratories using the Airflow apparatus. To reflect the continuing trend towards finer wool the latest series of IH Standards includes values from 15.71µm to 35.37 µm. Up until 2014 INTERWOOLLABS has issued 19 different series of Calibration Tops, each valid from two to three years.

The IWTO recognises INTERWOOLLABS as the sole supplier of fineness calibration standards for their Test Methods.

Test Reports with the INTERWOOLLABS accreditation stamp provides the recipient with confidence that the result has been achieved by a laboratory that has successfully participated in Round Trials with other global laboratories.

Since 1972 INTERWOOLLABS has provided a report to IWTO’s Technical Committee at each annual Congress detailing the expected normal variation between laboratory test results for the harmonisation programmes it performs.

The major benefit to members is that they can benchmark their laboratory’s measurement performance against other laboratories doing the same test twice each year(Round Trials). Each member receives a full report for each programme that they participate in.

The report shows how the laboratory’s result compares to other laboratories, as well as the global average. The member’s identity is only known to the Secretary, hence ensuring the anonymity of all participating laboratories.

Interwoollabs prides itself on providing professional and efficient support to all member labs taking part in our Round Trials. The prestige associated with Interwoollabs accreditation within the industry is something that we take great pride in.

‘We are finding increasing demand from Spinners as well as Top Makers in becoming an Interwoollabs member’ says Mr Lambert of Interwoollabs, ‘transparency and quality assurance in Top Making is ever more important when competing in a global market place and Interwoollabs helps its members achieve this.’

WOOL TESTING

We provide detailed evaluation of performance and calibration, and strive to ensure accurate results are achieved and maintained by providing our continual support and technical expertise to our members.

At the beginning of each year members receive 1 full set of 9 x 100g IH Standard Tops for calibration purposes. This is included in the Annual Subscription fee.

In recognition of the contribution to estimating the assigned values for Calibration Tops members can purchase additional sets of Calibration Tops at a substantially discounted price compared to that of non-members.

In addition, members receive free of charge an electronic copy of the Test Method(s) relevant to the Programme(s) in which they participate. When IWTO updates the Test Methods they provide the Secretary of INTERWOOLLABS with a new copy which the Secretary distributes to the relevant laboratories.At the start of each

year Interwoollabs provides our accredited members with our Accreditation Stamp and Certificate.

These are issued after the successful participation in the Round Trials to document the high standards of our laboratories. Interwoollabs has also developed an EXCEL program for calibrating the Airflow apparatus in accordance with the relevant IWTO Test Method.

We also provide verification for the Airflow Calibration calculations.

This is all provided free of charge to members.

Members always have the option to

seek assistance from the Management Committee where they may be having any problems, and our close links to IWTO mean we are in a good position to provide assistance.

Further information can be found on our website www.interwoollabs.org where it is possible to view our most recent 2014/1 Round Trial test results for OFDA. The website can also be viewed in Chinese, just click on the Chinese icon.

For Further information please contact John Lambert at: info@ interwoollabs.org or Telephone: 44 1274 688666

Admission Fee (for new Members) Annual Subscription for:

€ 710.00

}

Air-Flow Programme Microprojection Programme only Laserscan Programme O.F.D.A. Programme Microprojection combined with another Fineness Programme Air-Flow + Laserscan or O.F.D.A. Laserscan + O.F.D.A. Air-Flow + Laserscan + O.F.D.A. Almeter Programme

€ 618.00 each

No additional charge € 852.00 € 852.00 € 1090.00 € 618.00

Been seen, Be recognised – Connect with Buyers Everywhere Advertise in www.woolnews.net and reach over 2500 wool and textile companies in more than 56 countries worldwide, and at a fraction of the cost of other traditional advertising medium.

An advertising icon in www.woolnews. net will link your company to new buyers worldwide and at just the click of a button our readers can view your company details and be in touch with you in a matter of seconds.

USD 245.00 per month minimum 6 months

USD 199.00 per month minimum 6 months

Check this out at http://www.woolnews.net/advertise-with-us/

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 157

WOOL TESTING

RAPID CERTIFIED TEST RESULTS FOR BUYERS OF AUSTRALIAN WOOL Today buyers and sellers of Australian wool require a quick return of certified test results. AWTA (Australian Wool Textile Authority) provides three different levels of service to meet customer needs. Its Express Service issues 95% of certificates the following morning, Fast Service issues 95% of certificates within 3 days, and the Normal Service issues all certificates within 5 days.

A

WTA Raw Wool Australia is the largest division within AWTA Ltd and provides independent and objective wool certification services. AWTA Raw Wool’s major services are sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fibre diameter, vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold.

days a week. Sampling is conducted

To achieve the rapid service required by wool growers and wool buyers, AWTA Raw Wool testing laboratories operate in Australia day and night, 5

wool can confidently expect that wool

in 38 cities and towns throughout Australia and many of these sampling locations are in remote locations across Australia.

Virtually

all

Australian

wool

is

measured and tested prior to sale.

With the benefit of AWTA certification wool processors purchasing Australian purchased to their price and processing specifications and will perform to their requirements. Growers are assured of

being paid according to the objective specification of their wool.

‘While the availability of objective measurements for Yield, Vegetable Matter and Mean Fibre Diameter improved many aspects of the prediction of processing performance, it is also influenced by other parameters of which Staple Length and Strength are considered to be the most important’, says Ian Ashman, AWTA General Manager Raw Wool.

This objective measurement determines the value of combing wool with an average fibre length, which will be achieved after processing. This length is known as Hauteur. Research has shown that Hauteur is closely correlated to the staple length and staple strength of greasy wool.

‘Most processors today use a more diverse mix of combing wool types.

It is vital that all lots purchased are tested for Staple Length and Strength’, says Mr Ashman. ‘This is even more important in skirting types where the variability within sale lots will be higher than fleece types’.

‘All Australian wool can be easily tested. Such wool testing enables wool processors to predict how the wool will perform during processing and what the end result will be before the processor even starts his machine’.

158 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

For Results you can Trust

WOOL TESTING

THE BENEFIT OF OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENTS The overall benefit of objective measurements to the wool industry is large and what is certain is that objective measurements have transformed the way the industry operates. The entire industry is now critically dependent upon the measurements.

This transformation has largely been driven by economic benefits made possible by objective measurements.

The value of measurements is also reflected in the premiums and discounts that are now paid based on these measurements. They enable the market to better determine the value of individual farm lots and in doing so, they reduce risk both to the seller and the buyer. In the long term everybody, including wool growers, benefits from this.

ELECTRONIC CERTIFICATION OFFERS ASSURANCE TO BUYERS OF AUSTRALIAN WOOL Electronic Certification has been available to buyers of Australian wool for some time. Buyers and processors can validate their wool testing certificates by using theAWTA online verification system (http://www. awtawooltesting.com.au). Customers can use this system to check the

authenticity of wool measurement certificates that they receive. The results of verification are sent by email in a secure pdf format.

An additional feature of the quality

‘Our principle business has always been the certification of greasy wool for trading’, says Ian Ashman AWTA General Manager Raw Wool. ‘We see ourselves as providing assurance in the wool trading system. The introduction of electronic certificates is just another extension of this and provides an additional level of assurance and security to all sectors of the wool industry’.

supervised by AWTA sampling officers.

assurance that AWTA provides is that AWTA will only certify tests where the samples have been taken or directly This process is endorsed by Australian National Committee of IWTO. The AWTA website provides a variety of information to users of Australian wool to assist them in understanding testing methods and technical aspects of Australian wool. It also offers quick and user-friendly navigation to essential information on the broader AWTA Ltd group.

This website includes information on testing raw wool, scoured and carbonised wool and speciality fibres such as Mohair, Alpaca and Cashmere.

It

also

provides

information

on

sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fibre diameter, and vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold.

To sign up to AWTA’s regular news articles,

contact

Tim

Steere

at

tim.steere@awta.com.au http://www.awtawooltesting.com.au 160 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

WOOL TESTING

NZ WOOL TESTING AUTHORITY

PROVIDES CERTAINTY TO WOOL BUYERS New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA) has been providing testing and certification for wool and textiles for more than 25 years. It is extensively utilised by both New Zealand wool export companies and exporters of wool from other countries such as Chile, and the Falkland Islands.

NZWTA is IWTO accredited and is a member of Interwoollabs. During my recent visit to Napier I met with Duane Knowles, CEO of NZWTA, to outline the services offered by the company and the benefits these services provide its users.

by Victor Chesky

NZWTA has been active with other industry partners in developing length and strength testing for crossbred wool. Can you explain the benefits to the industry in this testing?

The wool industry in New Zealand has embraced objective measurement for yield, fibre diameter and colour, yet the important characteristic of greasy wool length measurement has been confined to Merino wool. This has been in part because the measurement of staple length and strength of crossbred has been considered too difficult due to the tippy nature of the wool.

Recent trials carried out by NZWTA in conjunction with a group of North Island wool brokers has established that staple length can be measured with the same levels of precision as Merino wool of the same length.

Mr Knowles commented that it is also encouraging that there is evidence that staple length and strength (L&S) measurements, along with mean fibre diameter can predict Length after Carding (LAC) performance, a specification used widely in scoured wool contracts. A robust prediction model provides a level of certainty that wool will meet the contract specification which is not currently

achieved by visual assessment. The benefits of L&S are spread throughout the wool pipeline.

Accurate and independent objective measurement provides equity for growers, assists the valuing process and reduces risk for buyers needing to meet specifications. Processors can also expect to optimise processing and product performance in the same way thorough objective measurement has benefitted in the worsted industry.

NZWTA is committed to assisting other industry partners in benefitting from this development.

Pesticide residue testing is only available from your laboratory here in New Zealand. Could you explain how this works?

Duane Knowles, CEO of NZWTA

Currently the only laboratory in the world capable of providing accredited pesticide residue testing services in wool is based at AWTA’s Agrifood Technology in Australia.

However quarantine restrictions for wool prevent the importation of raw wool samples directly to Australia, without chemical treatment. It is this treatment which affects the testing process.

NZWTA have recently established procedures which will give wool WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 161

WOOL TESTING

producing countries throughout the world, access to pesticide residue testing.

Samples can be sent to NZWTA’s transitional facilities in New Zealand where they are prepared for testing. The residues are extracted in the Napier laboratory and transported to Australia for testing.

This residue extraction process bypasses Australian quarantine restrictions, thereby allowing a pesticide residue testing service for anyone in the wool industry. Instructions for sending samples to NZWTA can be found on the website: http://www.nzwta.co.nz/importing_ samples/index.htm The division of NZWTA for textile testing has been a part of your operation for more than three years.

What is the product focus of this division?

In December 2010, NZWTA purchased the textile testing laboratory of AgResearch (formerly WRONZ and Canesis). This laboratory was the only comprehensive textile testing laboratory in New Zealand.

The laboratory has been successfully integrated into the NZWTA Head Office and wool laboratory in Napier.

The focus is on traditional testing of carpets, yarns and fabrics including count and twist measurement, performance testing through abrasion, pilling and shrinkage tests, as well as fibre content, colour fastness and constructional details. Flammability tests are also available on carpets and fabrics.

Chemical tests including solubility and insect resistance testing are available through the laboratory. Regular analysis of woolgrease provides lanolin traders with measurements of volatiles, calcium and ash content as well as acid values.

Also included in the tests carried out at NZWTA are colour fastness and laundry and dry-cleaning tests. A comprehensive list of tests and a price list are available on the NZWTA website: http://www.nzwta.co.nz/textile_testing/tests_available/ index.htm NZWTA has been actively promoting its online verification certification on a multi-language platform. Can you explain how users can access this service and the information it provides?

As part of NZWTA’s desire to provide confidence that certificates are authentic, we have available to certificate holders an on-line “Certificate Verification” service. The service allows purchasers of wool certified by NZWTA to validate their certificates. NZWTA is the only testhouse in New Zealand offering this service online and in real time.

This service can be accessed by all certificate holders and can be used to validate certificates even where copies or faxes of test data have been emailed or faxed to customers.

The system allows purchasers of New Zealand wool to validate the certificate results by accessing the NZWTA website http://verify.nzwta.co.nz/ and by entering the test number and the unique security code.

NZWTA 162 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

It provides additional certainty of the authenticity of wool measurement certificates, while still providing confidentiality to customers. The results of the verification are sent via email in a secure pdf format.

WOOL TESTING

WOOL TESTING WOOL TESTING AUTHORITY AUTHORITY EUROPE EUROPE Tim Parkes, General Manager at Wool Testing Authority Europe

Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Wool Authority CibynTesting Industrial Estate Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Cibyn UnitedIndustrial Kingdom Estate Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 United Kingdom Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 email : info@wtaeurope.com Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 wtaeurope.com email : info@wtaeurope.com wtaeurope.com

TESTING CERTIFICATES

GUARANTEE BETTER OUTCOME Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE) recently launched its new website in 5 languages that includes Chinese, Spanish, French, and Italian.

‘Customers new and old can now use the new look Wool Testing Authority Europe website in the language of their choice’, says Tim Parkes, Director at WTAE.

W

ool testing provides a good understanding of each consignment of wool, its key characteristics, how it will perform in processing, and how much clean wool will be obtained. This is of vital importance to any wool processor who will pay more for wool with a test certificate that provides such information.

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS).

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed.

United Accreditation Service (UKAS).

MemberKingdom of the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. group of laboratories the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) Member of Interwoollabs. group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs.

164 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

According to Mr Parkes clean wool content can yield vary considerably depending on wool type, quality of grading or classification and geographical origin. European greasy wool exporters often find that testing their wool opens new markets, attract new buyers, and a better price for their wool can be achieved.

WTAE provides an objective, cost effective wool testing service to the industry throughout the Northern Hemisphere and the rest of the world, ensuring both independence and integrity of wool certification. WTAE tests greasy wool,

WOOL TESTING

scoured wool and wool sliver, covering almost all commercial requirements for all wool types. In order to provide IWTO Certification samples must be obtained according to the IWTO Regulations, at its laboratory or agent.

WTAE is IWTO Licensed and UKAS Accredited (ISO 17025).

It is also a member of the ILRT Group and Interwoollabs. WTAE has sampling agents on the ground across Europe covering England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, France and Italy as well as Germany and Hungary.

The laboratory is fully equipped to carry out tests for the accurate and reliable measurement of an extensive range of wool characteristics and the prediction of processing performance.

WTAE offers an Online Certificate

Verification service which provides confirmation to wool users that the details on the IWTO Test Certificate or Test Report in their possession are correct. By entering the Test Number, Verification Code and email address in the appropriate boxes the wool user will receive a PDF copy of the Certificate in return. This will enable a rapid comparison and verification that the documents you hold, and the results in the WTAE database, are the Cnr Bridge & Lever Streets, PO Box 12065 same.

Ahuriri, Napier 4144, New Zealand Phone: +64 6 835 1086, Fax: +64 6 835 6473 Email: testing@nzwta.co.nz Website: www.nzwta.co.nz www.nzwta.com

‘We are happy to answer any questions regarding our services and all our contact details can be found through our new multi language website.’ Tim Parkes can be contacted by email at info@wtaeurope.com.

Telephone 0044 (0) 1286678097. www.wtaeurope.com

APPROVED SAMPLING AGENT IN MIDDLE EASTERN EUROPE

W

ool Sampling Hungary is offering wool sampling services for Middle Eastern Europe from its base in Hungary.

‘We take representative core samples from wool shipments in Middle East European Countries for laboratory testing’, says Mr Janos Topcsiov.

provides

the

product

information

Testing is undertaken by Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd in Wales U.K and sampling and testing are undertaken in accordance with the strict rules of the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO).

shipment with a special coring tool.

Core samples taken from bales of greasy wool can be tested for Yield including Vegetable Matter (VM); Fibre Diameter; and Colour.

Test Certificate by e-mail and naturally

‘On request we also carry out the analysis of the average length of the fibers and tensile strength’, says Mr Topcsiov. Wool Sampling Hungary

Hungary please email Janos Topcsiov

that can be relied upon by purchasers around the world. This is particularly useful for buyers of wool from Middle and Eastern Europe in such countries as Romania, Hungary, Serbia, Hroatia, Macedonia, and Slovakia.”

‘We take samples from every bale in the At the time of sampling, all bales are weighed to ensure yield is calculated correctly and a packing list produced.

After the laboratory tests the costumer receives the secure copy of the IWTO on paper by post’.

For

more

information

about

the

services provided by Wool Sampling at woolsamplinghungary@gmail.com or Tim Parkes (Wool Testing Authority

WOOL TRADE DIARY 2014 – 2015

Setting the Standard in Wool and Textile Measurement

NZWTA Wool Trade Diary 2014/2015

N

ZWTA Ltd has released the 2014-2015 edition of its popular Wool Trade Diary. The diary contains a comprehensive list of NZWTA Contacts, New Zealand wool statistics, New Zealand Wool Trade Contacts, and the 2014/2015 Wool Sale Roster.

The Diary is available free of charge to wool industry businesses. ‘For the past four years the Wool Trade Diary has been available in both English and Chinese’, says Phil Cranswick Customer Service Manager. The diaries can be obtained by contacting us at NZWTA directly.

For the Chinese language version please contact our China representative Zhang Pei Yi.’ Website www.nzwta.co.nz NZ Email testing@nzwta.co.nz or contact Zhang Pei Yi (Penny) in Shanghai Phone: 0086 21 6317 4823 Mobile: 0086 21 1592 1013 302 Email: zhangpenny@ hotmail.com

Europe) at info@wtaeurope.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 165

WOOL TESTING

ACCURATE AND EFFICIENT

WOOL TESTING Buyers of South African wool from around the world rely on the Wool Testing Bureau S.A (WTBSA) for an accurate and impartial testing service. The company continues to providea diverse range of services to a growing customer base.

I

t offers a variety of testing services including greasy wool testing for yield, mean fibre diameter and staple length and strength. It also tests scoured wool, carbonised wool, and wool tops. The Company continuously invests in new testing equipment to provide its customers with results based on the latest technologies.

Wian Heath

“

In line with the growth of the South African wool clip, testing volumes have increased consistently over the past 3 seasons

”

166 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

“It has been a positive year for us”, says Wian Heath, Managing Director WTBSA. “In line with the growth of the South African wool clip, testing volumes have increased consistently over the past 3 seasons. The 2013/2014 season was exceptional, with a total of 89 400 Yield and Mean Fibre Diameter lots being tested, an increase of almost 7% and the highest number in two decades. ” While the proportion of lots tested for Length and Strength have decreased from 59% to 56%, the number of tests increased to just over 50 000, an increase of almost 2%. Fleece testing volumes have remained constant while the number of mohair tests increased by 9% to almost 11 900.

Efforts to expand the income base of the Company into other areas have been positive. Utilising the skills and

equipment required to serve the textile industry has enabled the expansion of the customer base into the automotive and thefast moving consumer goods sectors.

A comprehensive range of specialised product testing services is also available from the Textile Testing Services Division. This includes SANAS accredited testing for Chemical, Colour Fastness, Dimensional Stability, Fabrics and Yarns, Flammability, Floor coverings and Automotive Component Testing.

Various equipment upgrades have been done to accommodate the expansion in the Scope of Accreditation.

WTBSA is a member of Interwoollabs andan IWTO accredited wool TestHouse. ‘We are actively involved in IWTO to ensure the correct application of the latest technical standards relating to wool testing and certification within the Company and the local industry. Participation in proficiency testing programs such as Interwoollabs and the ILRT group enables the harmonisation of test results with other major international Test Houses. We maintain a high level of technical competence and we are committed to providing world-class testing services to all our clients.’

WOOL TESTING

INDEPENDENT WOOL TESTING SERVICES

ACROSS THE GLOBE

S

GS operates more than 1500 offices and employs over 80,000 professional staff worldwide. It is well known to buyers and sellers of wool and wool top around the world for its independent wool testing certification. Based in Wellington New Zealand it offers its services to test wool all around the world.

Contact us here in New Zealand and we will liaise with the SGS office closest to the origin of the wool you wish to buy to arrange for that wool to be tested with us. This service is quick and cost effective, particularly when a number of samples are provided’, says Jeremy Wear manager of SGS Wool Testing Services in New Zealand.

SGS Wool Testing Services is extensively used by wool producers,

buyers, brokers, and wool export companies in New Zealand, as well as by animal fibre growers, sellers and buyers worldwide.

‘SGS

The company has been independently measuring greasy wool, scoured wool, and tops and sliver to verify quality and quantity across different criteria for 50 years. It is accredited to International Wool and Textile Organisation (IWTO) standards, and is licensed by the IWTO to produce certificates .

calibration standards, SGS uses 13 and

T F

• •

A R

D

•

Sampling, supervision and audit Fibers testing from animals, pre-sale and post sale greasy shipment, scoured wool and tops Related textiles testing

SGS Wool Testing Services is an IWTO licensed laboratory 168 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

In

addition

to

the

Interwoollabs

15 micron validation tops specially sourced from Italy and measured at a number of internationally-accredited laboratories to ensure consistency into the specialist ultrafine end of the clip.

SGS also offers yarn, fabric and carpet

inspection

through of

their

accredited

and

testing

extensive

network

Consumer

Testing

Services laboratories, situated in most major manufacturing and consumer countries.

Jeremy Wear can be contacted at nz.wool@sgs.com

Y L

N O

Recognized as a the global benchmark for quality and integrity. With more than 80,000 employees, SGS operates a network of over 1,650 offices and laboratories around the world. Our services include:

independent,

processor interests’.

‘Certification must be provided by an organisation totally independent of parties involved in the transactions’.

DELIVERING HIGH QUALITY

completely

and has no producer, seller, buyer or

‘When you need to be sure about what wool you are buying we can provide inspection, verification, testing and certification services – anywhere in the world’, says Mr Wear.

WOOL SERVICES

is

Contact: SGS WOOL TESTING SERVICES 46-48 Kemp Street, Kilbirnie P.O. Box 15062 Miramar, Wellington, New Zealand Tel: + 64 4 387 8565 Fax: + 64 4 387 8651 Email: nz.wool@sgs.com

OFDA 4000

OFDA 2000

BSC Electronics

WOOL TESTING

ACCURACY IN FIBRE MEASUREMENT FROM OFDA OFDA 4000

The price and comfort of fibres such as wool, mohair and cashmere is strongly dependant on fibre diameter, so accurate measurement is a vital factor in quality control.

B

SC Electronics developed the OFDA 100 some 21 years ago and is a world leader in fibre measurement instruments. OFDAhas been designed for Rapid Automatic Measurement of Diameter, Length and Curvature of wool, alpaca, cashmere, synthetic, glass and other fibres by video image analysis. Today there are now more than 380 of these units in use in 30 countriesworldwide. OFDA technology is used at all stages of the wool-processing pipeline, from greasy fleece through to yarnand fabric.

‘From Mongolia to Italy, OFDA should be the instrument of choice. Demand for the OFDA range of instruments remains strong from the wool industry in emerging processing countries, and is increasing in the cashmere and alpaca industries’, says Mr Mark Brims of BSC Electronics. ‘Accurate measurement is a vital factor in quality control for these fibre types. Some of the instruments have measured over 1 million samples.’

‘The main advantages of technology are its accuracy

this and

170 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

portability. It can be used on farm or in the laboratory. It is easy to operate and runs on standard Windows PC to allow easy networking, printing and export of data to spreadsheet formats’, says Mr Brims.

The original OFDA100 instrument has been replaced by the OFDA2000 which is available in 2 versions: laboratory and portable. Both versions are equal in speed and accuracy and can measure fibre snippets on 70x70mm glass slides in the same way as OFDA100, as recognised in IWTO47. Both versions can also measure the fibres in staple mode, to allow rapid measurement without washing and cutting the fibres, and can measure the diameter variation along the staple caused by changes in the animal’s diet and environment.

‘We needed to achieve a level of testing accuracy that would meet Australian and IWTO wool testing standards’, says Mr Brims. ‘We knew that it would need to be lightweight, portable, extremely durable and quick and easy to operate. We developed it

using the proven OFDA 100 systems, in conjunction with management software application systems.The latest OFDA2000 is now fully digital and can be interfaced to the PC via USB.The OFDA 2000 was a natural next step and has provided an efficient and cost effective way for woolgrowers to more consistently meet industry demands.’OFDA2000 has been used to class wool into the finest bale ever produced’.

The OFDA4000is fully digital and connects to the PC via USB, which carries the same advantages as the OFDA2000. IT is recognised for measuring diameter, hauteur and optical length in IWTO -62.

‘OFDA4000 is the first instrument to measure length by direct optical means and as it does not use a capacitance based sensor it is able to accurately measure blends of different fibre types and different fibre diameter’, says Mr Brims. Calculated Hauteur values are also provided for compatibility with previous technology. Optical length measurement is recommended for

WOOL TESTING

more accurate short fibre content and adjustment of processing machines to provide the best quality product.

The main advantage of the OFDA4000 is its ability to measure all main wool

fibre

characteristics

in

one

measurement, with greatly reduced

operator involvement. Diameter vs. length is also provided. The cost, size and weight of the OFDA400 system is considerably lower than the 3 instruments (Fibroliner, Almeter, OFDA100 or Laserscan) that it replaces. The software is included to allow viewing, blending and exporting

results to spreadsheet. There is no need to buy extra software to combine results from different instruments.

OFDA instruments are sold under license

worldwide

-

to

find

an

agent in your country please visit www.ofda.com

OFDA IN PERU

The alpaca industry in Peru has been working to enhance its breeding practices, fibre classification and scouring processes. The industry produces beautiful yarn and luxury fashion garments using royal baby alpaca, baby alpaca and alpaca fleece.

A

ccording to Mark Brims, who visited Peru last year the alpaca industry will benefit by introducing Optical-based Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA) technology to its testing and measuring protocol.

‘To measure fibre on farm allows the grower to better manage their breeding practices and sales prices. The OFDA technology has been used by farmers in Australia for over 20 years and has proven to be of great help and has enhanced their farming practices’, says Mr Brims Australian based scientist and CEO of BSC Electronics.

Mr Brims is the inventor of the OFDA technology.

Mr Brims spent some time in Peru last year introducing alpaca growers to the benefits of using this OFDA technology. ‘It was an easy product to promote’, says Mr Brims, ‘There are clear advantages in speed and accuracy to using OFDA technology’, he says.

‘From Peru to Italy, OFDA should be the instrument of choice’.

The equipment is very portable. It is lightweight, durable, and easy to operate. It can be used on farm and can be serviced by remote operation via the internet. It runs standard

Mark Brims (sixth from left) training operators in measuring Alpaca using the portable OFDA2000 in Arequipa, Peru

Windows PC that allows for easy networking, printing, and the export of data to spreadsheet formats.

pipeline, from greasy fleece through to

OFDA equipment has been designed for Rapid Automatic Measurement of Diameter, Length and Curvature of wool, alpaca, cashmere, synthetic, glass and other fibres by video image analysis. Today there are now more than 380 of these units in use in 30 countries worldwide and is IWTO-62 accredited. OFDA technology is used at all stages of the wool-processing

instruments from the wool industry

yarn and fabric.

‘Demand for the OFDA range of is strong and in emerging processing countries

its

use

is

increasing,

particularly in the cashmere and alpaca industries’, says Mr Brims.

‘Accurate measurement is a vital factor in quality control for these fibre types.’

Mark Brims can be contacted by email at info@ofda.com WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 171

INDUSTRY

Japan’s yarn, fabric and textile machinery exports on the rise Asian nations imported 40.016 billion yen of yarn and fabric from Japan, showing a rise of 23% compared to the same period last year. Of this, China imported yarn and fabric worth 18.996 billion yen, up 27.1% year-on-year, while the Asean nations imported 11.411 billion yen worth of goods, up 15.9% year-on-year.

J

apan’s total exports of textile yarn and fabric in the first quarter of 2014 increased by 5.9% year-on-

year to 55.599 billion yen according to trade statistics released by the Ministry of Finance.

The exports of textile machinery from Japan increased by 53.3% year-on-year to 30.898 billion yen.

However, Japan’s yarn and fabric exports to Middle East countries decreased by 12.9% year-on-year to 2.913 billion.

Asian countries accounted for most textile machines coming from Japan.

These countries imported 24.464 billion yen worth of textile machines, registering a growth of 42.9% year-onyear. Of this, exports to China soared 66.9% year-on-year to 15.844 billion yen, whereas those to the Asean countries inched up by 4.4% year-onyear to 2.718 billion yen.

Japan’s yarn and fabric exports to EU countries showed a marginal rise of 0.8% year-on-year, and increased to 4.696 billion yen, whereas exports to the US increased by 11% year-on-year to 3.883 billion yen.

Textile machine exports to the US surged by 61.3% year-on-year to 833 million yen during the first quarter of 2014, while those to the EU declined by 1.2% year-on-year to 782 million yen, the data showed.

KEEPING IN THE KNOW FOR FREE If you want to keep in touch with what’s happening in your industry around the world you should subscribe to www.woolnews.net Receive this electronic newsletter every month and keep up-to-date with the latest wool auction reports, and news and developments in the industry around the world. www.wooolnews.net is free to subscribers at http://www.woolnews.net/subscribe/

www.woolnews.net 172 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

BUYING & SELLING WOOL MADE EASY WITH ONLINE PLATFORM

O

ur online platform for buying and selling wool is stress free and this is a great advantage to users, says Victor Chesky CEO International Trade Publications (ITP). ‘And it is free to both buyers and sellers.

Simply login and see what you can buy, or login and list your wool for sale. This 24 hour interactive platform is easy to use and free to all. Until now there has been no independent website for a free online sales platform.

‘Our woolbuy.net website facilitates direct links between buyers and sellers. We are not a party to any financial transactions between buyers and sellers’, says Mr Chesky. ‘When you want to make an enquiry or buy wool you communicate directly with seller, there are no other parties involved’.

Woolbuy.net also provides online advertising banners for wool exporters, processors, and yarn exporters , that can be linked to your company website.

International Trade Publications also publishes a monthly online newsletter - www.woolnews. net and international trade magazines - WOOL EXPORTER CHINA and WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL.

Buying and selling greasy wool, wool top and yarn made easy on woolbuy.net

Listing page - buyers and sellers can view photos and specifications of listed products

URUGUAY

LANAS TRINIDAD PRESSING AHEAD WITH ENVIRONMENTAL AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

‘At Lanas Trinidad we produce quality dry combed wool tops within a range of 15.5 – 32 microns’, says Pedro Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad. ‘Our traceability system identifies the wool all along the process from the field to the combed wool containers sent to our customers. We support producers of fine and super fine wooland actively participate in the Fine Merino Project that supports wool processing in a sustainable way’.

Pedro Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad

174 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

A

s the biggest topmakers in Uruguay Lanas Trinidad has a processing capacity of 10,000 tons of dry combed wool tops per year and annual sales of 75 million dollars.

It supplies customers in China,

Eastern and Western Europe, USA, South Korea, Japan, United Kingdom, and South America. It has invested over 10 million dollars in research and development to implement a program in sustainable production.

URUGUAY

by 95%. Using the combustion of this methane-rich gas is then used to generate electrical power that is the equivalent to the power consumption of 650 households. And we hope to have this venture operating by the end of May’, he says.

The wool grease extracted from the water left after the scouring process is collect by way of a centrifuge, without the use of chemicals. ‘We sell this grease to customers interested in obtaining good quality lanolin for cosmetics and the pharmaceutical industries’.

Lanas Trinidad treats water after processing for use in irrigation for local agriculture

‘We have a perfect combination of sun, ideal temperature and rainfall, and an abundance of fresh water and green pasture for our nearly 9 million sheep’ comments Mr Otegui. ‘Our sheep are pastured outside and graze stress free.

There is no mulesing in Uruguay’.

To achieve such quality top Mr Otegui points to the commitment Lanas Trinidad places on its environmental credentials. ‘Complete traceability from farm to final delivery of top to our customers is without question and we know that quality goes beyond the raw material and the manufacturing process. We value the expertise of our team of people and support them and their communities.’

Lanas Trinidad ensures that personnel enjoy health insurance and good working conditions where individual and collective rights are respected. ‘In Uruguaywe are proud to have ratified 105 international conventions that acknowledge such rights as union freedom and respect for the minimum age for workers. The company also sponsors and supports primary and high school students and events.

Beyond its commitment to social responsibility Lanas Trinidad is a testament to good environmental 176 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

practice. ‘Our wool scouring process is performed with only organic and biodegradable detergents. And our combing process only uses sizing oils and organic and biodegradable antistats’, says Mr Otegui. ‘To wash our wool we use our own water supply system that is wholly sourced from rainwater. Our reservoir has a capacity of 1 million cubic metres of water that is supplied through an aqueduct some 7km long. The water is natural and renewable’.

Waste water is biologically treated in 22 aerobic and anaerobic lagoons in an area of 140 hectares. The bacteria in these lagoons naturally degrade waste water. The result is that there is no discharge of waste water into the public water system and irrigation of the Lanas Trinidad tree plantation ensures that carbon dioxide is reduced. ‘We are very aware of the effects of greenhouse gases and believe in good environmental practice’. Mr Otegui also points out that feeding the boilers with wood, mainly from their own plantation is a further way to make use of renewable and local resources. ‘By capturing the methane generated in the anaerobic process we are reducing greenhouse gas emissions

Certification offered by Lanas Trinidad includes: • Oeko-Tex Standard 100 • 2013 Interwoollabs Certificate • Global standards for organic textiles (GOTS) certified by IMO (Institute for Marketecology) • System Safety Management and Occupational Health as required by the OHSAS 18001:2007 • Quality Management System according to the requirements of ISO 9001:2008 EX: 7.3 and 7.5.2 • ISO / IEC 17025:2005 - General Requirements for the competence of testing and calibration laboratories • System Environmental Management as required by ISO 14001:2004 ‘In additional to our traceability and environmental management programs we offer a personal service.

What the customer needs is what the customer gets. Customer satisfaction is paramount at Lanas Trinidad’, concludes Mr Otegui.

For more information about Lanas Trinidad – Email: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy www.lanastrinidad.com Tel: 598-26061819/26010024

URUGUAY

URUGUAYAN WOOL GROWERS MOVE TO FINER MICRONS Evolution of wool exports, by type

70 Volume (Mkg)

60 50 40 30 20 10 0

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Combed

Scoured

Greasy Source: SUL based on DNA

8

S

UL (Uruguayan Wool Secretariat) is privately run to benefit and support sheep breeder members. Its main activities include the generation and transfer of technologies, training, guidance, information, quality control of wool and meat production processes, and overseas consultancy services.

Society has been working with wool growers assisting them to produce finer wools under 20 microns. This assistance has come in the form of various projects and on-farm support. Today Uruguay produces nearly 1,500.000 kilos of wool that is under 20 microns.

Main destinations of exports of greasy, scoured and combed wool - P or cen ta ge of tota l ( clea n ba s is ) , s ea s on 2 0 1 2 - 2 0 1 3 -

‘Wool has been a main export product from Uruguay for many decades’, says Joaquin Martinicorena president of SUL. ‘Due to the variety of sheep breeds in Uruguay there is a wide range of wool, with different microns and product purposes offered to the widest spectrum of customers.’

The Uruguayan wool industry is also well recognised for excellent animal welfare and good environmental practices.

This level of care is practiced from farm to processing sector.

At present, the main wool export product from Uruguay is tops. This is the result of a large investment in local combing plants. In the last few decades Uruguay has ranked second in the world as an exporter of tops.

Other textile products with larger added value are also exported, and include yarns, fabrics, garments, bedcovers, and rugs. For the last 10 years SUL and Uruguayan Breeders

Total

Greasy

Scoured

China

50.97 %

86.42 %

71.43 %

34.53 %

Germany

12.35 %

7.51 %

2.48 %

16.46 %

Turkey

8.49 %

0%

0.21 %

13.32 %

Italy

5.95 %

0.18 %

3.97 %

8.27 %

India

3.75 %

5.89 %

12.95 %

0.66 %

Others

18.49 %

0%

8.96 %

26.76 %

Industrialized

Source: CMPP

With more than 50 destinations, China, Europe and Turkey are the most importants

Uruguayan wool exports, volume by fibre diameter 18

Volume exp. (Mkg)

Uruguayan wool offers good staple length, high washing yields, and good colour. Good farming practices and clip preparation produce contamination free wools. Wool is harvested under clip preparation protocols that include the “green label” and packed in poliethilene bags.Traceability of wool is possible as each flock is individually identified.

Destinations

16

2011

14

2012

12

2013

10 8 6 4 2 0

<21

21.0-22.0

22,1-23

23,1-24,9

25-26.4

26.5-27.9

28-29.4

29.5-31.4

>31,5

Others

Source: SUL based on DNA

Mainly mid micron and fine wools, for apparel and interior textiles

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 177

URUGUAY

THOMAS MORTON BOOSTS ITS SCOURED WOOL EXPORTS from Uruguay for many years. ‘We do export greasy and scoured wool worldwide. China is a main destination for our greasy wool but has also been ordering more scoured wool than in previous years. However Europe still takes the bulk of our scoured wools’, says Mr Morton.

Malcolm Morton at his office in Montevideo

‘There has been an increase in demand from China and Europe for scoured wool from Uruguay’, says Malcolm Morton Director at Thomas Morton SA. ‘And we have been fulfilling orders to help satisfy this expanding demand. The rapid increase in wool prices worldwide and a tightening of wool supply has seen Uruguayan wool in greater demand from wool processors around the world. Good wool and strong connections with farmers in Uruguay and neighbouring countries has been the hallmark of our wool export business’.

Thomas Morton S.A. has been exporting greasy and scoured wool

178 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Wool production in Uruguay has been stable and the weather conditions favourable for good quality wool.

Uruguayan wool is generally available in a wide product range from 15 micron super fine wools to 30 micron and coarser wools. There has been strong evidence that the work undertaken in genetics in Uruguayan wool breeds has been good, particularly in regard to merino. Good sanitary condition for animals has also helped result in improved colour, length, strength and clean quality wool. The excellent animal health and welfare conditions guarantee excellent quality wool with a variety of types for a variety of applications’ says Mr Morton.

The company also supplies wools from Peru, Brazil and Argentina and has regular contact with practically all wool consuming countries. ‘We can

supply our customers with all types of Uruguayan wool as well as wool from other South American countries. We control all stages of wool for sorting that is brought to us from farms or from wool brokers. This ensures that quality control is assured and we can deliver to our clients the wool they specify’.

‘We personally value each lot. We have an understanding and knowledge about the wool we buy and sell that only an uninterrupted chain of involvement and long experience can bring’.

All wools can be tested by Laboratorio Tecnologico del Uruguay (LATU) an accredited and internationally recognised testing house.

‘We welcome enquiries from companies looking to buy the very good style wools we can offer. Our policy is to offer flexibility in order to fulfil orders from all buyers at all times’, concluded Mr Morton.

For more information about this company please contact Thomas Morton SA at tmorton@adinet.com.uy Tel. 598 2 924 4158

URUGUAY

EUROPEANS BUY SCOURED LAMBS’ WOOL FROM RANTEX

E

urope and particularly Italy are buying more scoured wool from Uruguayan.

Rantex

buys

direct

from

farmers

and consignee houses through its collecting

warehouse

based

just

Rantex has long held a position as a leading exporter of greasy wool from Uruguay. This season it has experienced an increase in demand for its scoured wool from Western Europe, and in particular from Italy where scoured lambs’ wool has been in most demand. Eastern Europe has also increased its orders, and this has been the case particularly in Poland.

outside Montevideo. It classifies the

‘While over 50% of all greasy wool exports from Uruguay come from us we are experiencing a surge in interest in our scoured wool’, says Richard Seizer, company chairman at Rantex and current President of the Uruguay Wool Exporters & Scourers Association.

something that is not so usual these

Wool selling in Uruguay is seasonal so at the end of the season there is often enough wool left. ‘At Rantex we work to ensure that our customers receive the wool they need all year round.

And although we believe that up 20% of this seasons’ clip has been held back by farmers, hoping for better prices, we are still able to satisfy our clients worldwide’.

wool fleece by fleece. The result is grading by style and micron in a wide range. The micron achieved is between 20.0 to a maximum medium crossbred at 33 – 35 microns.

‘We classify and sort, fleece by fleece, our wool in a 6.600 m2 warehouse according to the requirements of our clients. This individual approach is days, but is certainly appreciated by our clients’, says Mr Seizer. Rantex can class and press pack around 50 tons of greasy wool per day. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they require greasy or scoured wool.

The company scouring plant is located on the same site as the warehouse. It has a daily production of about 30 tons of greasy wool. ‘We have a quick service with a quick turnaround. Over the years we have built a reputation for personal service, quality products and an extensive knowledge of Uruguayan wool’, says Mr Seizer.

Rantex is managed by Richard Seizer and sons Maximiliano and Alejandro from its Head office in Montevideo

Mindful of the plants’ environmental impact Rantex complies with effluent treatment according to Uruguayan regulations. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they need greasy or scoured wool, while maintaining environmental considerations’.

Rantex also operates a grease extraction facility, adding wool grease to its list of export products.

‘Companies interested in importing greasy wool, scoured wool and wool grease from Uruguay are welcome to contact us’, says Richard Seizer. wool@rantex.com.uy

LEADING AND RELIABLE EXPORTER OF GREASY AND SCOURED WOOL FROM URUGUAY

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 179

URUGUAY

D’Jalma Puppo and Margarita Cortabarría of Estancia Puppo SA

ESTANCIAS PUPPO EXPORTS DOUBLE FROM PREVIOUS YEAR ‘Our export volume has doubled with respect to the last season, and we are the largest greasy wool exporter below 24,5 microns in Uruguay’, says Mr Puppo. The company exports greasy wool from 17 – 24.5 microns, with VM at 0.3% and average Schlumberger dry yield of 77%, with no coloured or dark fibres, and no contaminants of any kind.

A

ccording to D’jalma Puppo, managing director at Estancias Puppo, buying direct from the

wool growers has many advantages.

‘Our customers appreciate that the wool they receive comes directly from many farms located in one of the best growing wool regions of Uruguay.

There is no intermediary. We control the quality of the wool from farm animal to export product. This work begins with shearing and sorting, to ensure that no contamination or dark fibre is present in packed orders.

Mulesing is not practised in Uruguay’.

The company runs a fully staffed office that can arrange transportation and shipping.

180 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

Estancias Puppo also has its own shearing team, trained in shearing and sorting according to the code of practice laid out by SUL, (Uruguayan Wool Secretariat) and was the first company to receive the SUL “green label”. The green label is a mark of distinction in shearing and sorting. The sorted wool is classified into different fleece quality types (Superchoice, Choice etc) and inferior categories such as pieces, bellies, locks and crutchings are separated.

‘We manage each phase of wool production. Every step of the process is monitored, from sheep grazing and nutrition to genetic programming. We carefully select female hoggets and

rams for mating to ensure top quality wool. The result is an excellent wool selection.’

Notwithstanding the growth in business Mr Puppo points out that ‘we are still a family run company with a personal touch when dealing with all our customers’. The main export markets for Estancias Puppo wool include China, India and Europe.

Estancias Puppo can achieve larger volumes of wool by collecting and sorting wool from other farms that adopt its same strict quality processes. ‘Our knowledge and direct communication with other farmers ensure that we can guarantee that there is no blending of different

URUGUAY

categories. We do not blend, and the producers we buy from do not blend either, our priority is offering quality’, says Mr. Puppo.

‘This increase in our exports is a result of our customers recognising and valuing our ability to supply high quality wool, to exacting customer specification. China is now buying fine micron wools from Uruguay.

Our customers have discovered that Uruguay can produce excellent wool to make very good quality top.

‘We also are very particular about contracts. If a customer order specification is for 21 microns super choice fleece, then this is what he will get’, says Mr Puppo. ‘Our customers are dealing with the person who grows the wool as we manage the traceability of each wool lot’. He also points out that the company only sells wool that is in stock and the shipment of this wool to customers is usually arranged

within a week. While local Uruguayan wool, selected from Estancias Puppo farms and affiliates are the main source of supply it can also supply Chilean wool, Argentine wool, and wool from other South American countries.

‘We have hosted buyers from China, Europe and India at our farms and we are looking forward to welcoming

other buyers who are interested in visiting our beautiful countryside and buying our fine wool’, concludes Mr. Puppo.

For more information please contact Ing. Agr. Margarita Cortabarría at exportaciones@estanciaspuppo.com Tel.: +598 2 7075614 www.estanciaspuppo.com

BUYING DIRECT FROM THE WOOL GROWER HAS IT’S ADVANTAGES BETTER QUALITY • BETTER SERVICE • BETTER PRICE

ESTANCIAS PUPPO S.A.

Ramón Masini 3153 11300 Montevideo – Uruguay Tel/Fax: (598-2) 707 5614 Email: exportaciones@estanciaspuppo.com www.estanciaspuppo.com

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 181

URUGUAY

URUGUAYAN WOOL REMAINS SOUGHT AFTER PRODUCT ‘We export 70% superfine merino - between 17.5 - 24.5 microns and 30% crossbred wools. The wool has been of good quality in part due to the introduction of genetic enhancement’, says Ignacio Diaz of Ulana in Montevideo Uruguay.

W

ool buyers and wool processors around the globe are quite familiar with Uruguayan wool comments Mr Diaz. It is well known and valued for its good staple length, low vegetable matter content, no chemical contamination and low coloured fibre content and will continue to be in demand in the future.

‘We have been working with companies in Europe, and in particular in India for

182 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

many years and are well aware of their requirements and specifications. Our motto is “We deliver what you need” ’, says Carlos Diaz company president at Ulana. Mr Diaz senior has more than 43 years experience working in the Uruguayan wool industry.

‘We sell mainly greasy wool, all type of fleeces, pieces and bellies, lambs wools, black brown wools and blending or cheaper types that buyers can request’, says Ignacio Diaz.

URUGUAY

We are a family business and our customers appreciate the personal service we provide. The Ulana warehouse is located very near to Montevideo where all wool types are core tested by Laboratorio Tecnológico del Uruguay (LATU) prior to export.

‘The wool is sorted to strict client specification’, says Mr Diaz, ‘it is then baled, and prepared for shipping.

The result is a faster delivery time to customers.’

‘In the last couple of years we have concentrated in delivering excellent merino wool in the range of 18 - 22.5 microns to customers worldwide.

We have exported over 2 million kgs of Uruguayan wools during the last season. We source our wool direct from farms.’

‘When wool buyers need the right wool they should contact us. We have the ability to source the right wool from all over Uruguay and we can do

Ulana is managed by Mr Diaz together with his son Ignacio and daughter Maria. that at a very competitive rate. We

wool into the mix of wools they buy,

can also advise wool companies that

comments Ignacio Diaz.

have not used Uruguayan wool before

Please contact Carlos Diaz or Ignacio

in how to incorporate Uruguayan

Diaz at ulana@ulana.com.uy

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WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014 | 183

HANGZHOU PASHING

WOOLLEN & FASHION CO., LTD Hangzhou Pashing Woollen & Fashion Co., Ltd celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. In 2004 two young traders established a local yarn production company and from this small beginning Pashing now employs some 500-600 people and has expanded into knitting yarn and the manufacture of more than 2 million garments bound for the export market.

P

ashing is based in Xinchang County, Zhejiang Province, and covers a land area of 3.33 hectares. It has a modern production plant with a construction area of 22,000 square metres. Xinchang County is hilly with a humid climate, very appropriate for textile production.

It has a well-developed local industry of textiles and textile machinery.

This has evolved into a sophisticated industrial cluster with a full range of supporting facilities for the industry. It is connected to the Shangsan Freeway and Yongjin Freeway and is close to Ningbo Port, with easy access to transport.

Today Pashing is an integrated enterprise with autonomous import and export rights, and is involved in the research and development, production and sale of knitted sweaters and a variety of woollen and semiworsted yarns. It has its own sweater, woollen and worsted plants and is set to expand its garment manufacturing even further. Mr Liang believes that 2014 will see an increase in demand 184 | WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2014

in the cashmere sector. ‘We produce a large variety of yarn. We can supply yarn in large and small quantities and in a large variety of types, from pure wool, to blends and cashmere.

Its main production equipment consist of 11 sophisticated woollen production lines imported from Italy and Japan, a 1,680-spindle semiwoollen production line made in China, and 140 fully-automatic or semi-automatic German Stoll-brand or China-made computerized flat knitting machines of various types.

‘At Pashing we specialize in the production of all types of woollen and knitted products, conventional yarns such as 8-90 NM/2 woollen yarns, semi-worsted wool yarns, cashmere yarns, rabbit hair yarns, blended silk and cashmere yarns and Shetland wool yarns, and specially blended yarns of any combination of acrylic, cotton, linen, modal and Tensel fibres, with an annual production of 1.5 million sweaters and 1,200 tons of various types of yarns.

The company mainly supplies yarns to some large garment manufacturers in Europe, America, Japan and Mainland China, and exports 100% of its woollen and knitted products to Europe, America, Japan and other countries and regions.

‘We pride ourselves on our excellent technical strength. We have a full range of specialist staff and our own independent testing laboratory.

We have Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 (Confidence in Textiles) certification from the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology for our knitted sweaters and yarns. We also have Woolmark and Woolmark Blend licence from the International Wool Secretariat. We have also passed the social responsibility review of the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI)’, says Mr Liang.

The company focus is “quality, customers and integrity,” and is always happy to engage with new customers internationally.

remer B

WOLLHANDELSKONTOR GMBH