wool2yarn Speciality Fibres
Latest innovation in wool | Focus on Eastern Europe | Wool in bedding Drought impacts wool production | Creating intelligent yarns
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2019-2020
Established in 1957 by Mr Jo Modiano, G. Modiano Limited is based in London. We have grown to become one of the worldâ€™s largest wool trading and processing companies. We sell greasy wool, wool tops, including Superwash and Basolan treated, noils and wastes. We also supply wool grease from our factory in Nejdek, Czech Republic.
Acknowledgements AWI/The Woolmark Co British Wool Canadian Wool Co-Operative Cape Wools South Africa IWTO Mohair South Africa Nanjing Wool Market Ministry of Trade of Hungary infoaid Partners Italian Wool Association Uzbek Institute of Natural Fibers Art & Design Ely Torres Polyprint Pty Ltd Melbourne Australia Published by International Trade Publ. (ITP) PO Box 11, Caulfield South Melbourne, Victoria 3162 AUSTRALIA
Dear Reader If I can describe the wool industry today using only one word it would be ‘uncertainty’. Uncertainty about US China trade disputes, Brexit, slow economic growth in Europe, and the impact of the drought in Australia and South Africa, are just some of the factors playing out and making life so uncertain! But it is not all doom and gloom consumers still prefer natural fibre, and they want to know where it has come from and the story behind it. The textile market is expected to grow from year to year. The main factors driving this growth is an increase in demand for natural fibres and product innovation. Growth is also expected from extra demand in technical textiles and household applications as consumers take to natural fabrics in their in home décor - surely good news for crossbred wools.
Editor Victor Chesky
So, am I trying to paint a more positive picture than it is? I hope not. There are many positive things happening in our industry.
ITP publications wool2yarn global wool2yarn china www.woolnews.net www.woolbuy.net
Articles in this issue cover many aspects of the wool and speciality fibre industry, from farm gate to yarn, fabric, and garments. It includes industry news and opinion pieces from well known industry figures. It features reports from wool producing countries and information about the latest developments in eco friendly wool processing, innovation in active yarn, woolen fabric and garments, and the latest in textile machinery, wool testing and much more.
Front Cover Image
We also feature a special report on Eastern Europe - a sleeping giant with great potential. Read us on-line www.wool2yarnglobal.com Send us an email firstname.lastname@example.org To acknowledge the preferences of our readers and contributors we use both UK and US spelling in our articles.
There is a lot to read in this issue, so please keep it handy and browse through at your leisure over the coming months. We would like to thank the many contributors that have helped us to provide you with such a diverse read.
Victor Chesky Editor wool2yarnglobal 2019
Sustainable future • SLIVER TOP • SUPERWASH TOP • OPEN TOP • SHORT TOP • MOHAIR TOP • LINCOLN TOP • SCOURED WOOL • SPECIAL TOP FOR COTTON TEXTILES • NOIL AND LANOLIN
RedSun Wool EXPORTER OF TOPS AND SPECIALITY FIBRE
Contact: Nick Chen at email@example.com • Tel 0086-573-88588830 No.1108, Yong Xing Road, Tong Xiang, Zhejiang, China
is our T
Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles
7 Renmin Road, Miaoqiao, Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu, China 215615 Tel: +86-512-58461988 Fax: +86-512-58460872 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com
A SUCCESS STORY SPINNING MORE THAN 50 YEARS WOOLEN AND CASHMERE KNITTING YARN • SEMI-WORSTED KNITTING YARN • WORSTED KNITTING YARN
10 INDUSTRY NEWS Innovations in wool New Chairman for AWI Planning ahead New licensing scheme for British Wool Recognition for Uruguayan topmaker Glacial XT - making wool even better IWTO - bright spot for crossbred wools OFDA - what blend is in your top? Lithuania punching above its weight AWTA - Mulesing Reports available
SĂźdwolle in Vietnam
New MD for WTAE
Tianyu from farm to fashion
Danspin acquires Lawton Yarns
Core Spun Yarn from Indorama
Keeping the world spinning Drought impact on Australian wool New Home for SustainaWOOLâ„˘ New SGS online portal
53 EASTERN EUROPE SNAPSHOT Russia - Belarus
Serbia - Bulgaria
Kamvol - out of the shadows
Czech Republic Georgia - Hungary
JSC Sukno moving with the times Creativity from Bulgaria Wool processor goes international Finer wools are the focus Fibre &Textile testing available online
86 TEXTILE MACHINERY The latest from AUTEFA, nsc, Prosino, Sant Andrea, Tecnomeccanica 8 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
72 YARN & FABRIC VLNAP - versatility makes the difference I normally wear Marzotto Creating intelligent yarns Woollen yarn from China
139 CANADA Offering economical solution 158 SOUTH AFRICA Suited to many applications Profiles on leading SA wool exporters 140 GERMANY German Wool 167 ITALY Using the best Italian Merino Working for a better tomorrow Stock variety from Biella
94 WOOL IN BEDDING Joma Wool Consumers choose wool
98 SPECIALITY FIBRES Luxury fibres unchartered road ahead
Cashmere steps up to the next level
Precision in dyeing begins in the lab
Responsible Mohair Standard Upfront with Mohair MSA host China Mohair Fashion Competition
RWS & Organic wool 114 AUSTRALIA Profiles on leading Australian wool exporters
100th anniversary IWTA
Red Sun tops for Europe
173 URUGUAY Greener than green
Nanjing Wool Market 2019-2020 142 FALKLAND ISLAND Naturally Falkland Wool 144 UK British Wool â€“ a truly versatile fibre
A history of tradition Exporter offers traceability
British Wool Plans for 2019/20 Profiles on leading UK wool exporters 156 CHILE Championing animal welfare 125 NEW ZEALAND When scoured wool makes better sense Profiles on leading NZ wool exporters wool2yarnglobal 2019 | 9
Setbacks and opportunities
he global textile market is expected to post a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of over 6% during the period 2019-2023 according to a recent market research report by Technavio, an American company with a focus on emerging market trend research, based in Maryland USA.
concern. The China US trade disputes have created economic uncertainty that goes far beyond these two countries. European countries are experiencing low economic growth, and even countries in Asia are slowing down. The only bright spot has been the US economy but latest indications are that this is also slowing.
The report was released before the escalation in China US trade disputes and as yet unsuccessful Brexit negotiates. Nevertheless what is interesting are the two main factors that the report says will drive this growth an increased demand for natural fibres, and innovation in textile products. Of course wool only represents 1.1% of fibre consumption but it is still good news for wool and natural fibres.
The Australian wool clip is down to its lowest level in almost 100 years, mainly due to the drought, affecting quantity and quality. As one wool grower commented ‘there is more dust than wool’.
But do the facts on the ground represent this optimism, it doesn’t seem so. Low Merino wool production and higher prices are expected to impact manufacturers of apparel. Lower demand for crossbred wools and a lack of innovation in this sector is also a factor of 10 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee forecast the clip down by 12.7% in 2018/19 — a drop of 43 million kilograms, and the lowest yield since 1924. The expectation is that 2019/20 will see a further decline of shorn wool by 5.3%. 2020 total wool production is estimated to be 1,114.8 mkg clean. Steven Read CEO at Michell, Australian wool processing company says ‘while it is clear wool tested for sale by AWTA for this season is well
Industry news down on the previous season by around 13 % I suspect wool production is actually lower than this. This view is based on the large amount early shearing we have seen this season and confirmed by the large increase in premature shorn wool being put up for sale. It is most likely these sheep shorn early were sold of shears to the meat trade.’ He further comments that ‘in addition to the significant drop in volume of wool produced this season as a result of the drought, wool quality has suffered with yields, fibre length and tensile strength all impacted. ‘Many early stage processors have struggled to process some extremely low yielding wools this season. Sadly for growers struggling with drought has reflected in the discounted prices these wool have attracted when compared to better yielding wools of a similar Micron, length and strength’. Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics (ABARES) reported that the fall in total wool production in 2018–19 was not expected to continue across all wool types in 2019–20. The supply of fine and medium wools (18.6 to 22.5 microns) fell by 24% yearon-year. Dry seasonal conditions have pushed the average micron of these wools lower. This has resulted in a higher supply of lowerquality superfine wools (18.5 microns or less) coming onto the market. This combination of higher quantity and lower quality is likely to put downward pressure on premiums for finer grade wool. At the time of going to print some rain had fallen in drought affected areas, but it will take time for pastures to recover and for wool growers to restock. Tight wool supply is expected to continue in 2019/20 - impacting on wool prices and demand. Andrew Blanch Managing Director of New England Wool (NEW), supplier to Successori Reda Spa and Vitale Barberis Canonico Spa in Italy says ‘At the grass roots level, falling merino sheep numbers and particularly merino ewe numbers, is a very worrying issue. When the drought breaks (we have to
be confident it will), it is going to take a long time for most flocks to rebuild numbers. The attractiveness of fat lamb prices and the fast returns this enterprise can bring may see many producers joining more ewes to sheep meat sires (at least in the short term) thus delaying the growth of the merino flock. Some merino growers will have gone out of the industry altogether. When the drought breaks, surplus sheep will be almost non-existent. A concentrated breeding program on each farm still maintaining a core of merino breeding ewes will be needed to build the national flock. ‘We can only hope that prices remain at sustainable levels to incentivise growers to rebuild their flocks. It is also hoped that the quality genetic pools on each farm are still intact so that when seasons return to some form of normality, growers not only build numbers, but increase productivity and quality as well? According to ABARES 2019–20 the EMI is forecast to fall as higher volumes of superfine wool come onto the market and historically high prices cause some processors to substitute towards lower-cost fibres. The high EMI is creating an incentive for processors to substitute wool with cheaper synthetic fibres that can be blended with lower-cost medium micron wools (20.6 to 22.5 microns). ‘Early indications for the upcoming clip, mainly being shorn now, is for the wool to be shorter, more tender, lower in yield, and definitely finer. Wool cut per head is down, and due to selling of sheep or poorer lambings back last spring (2018), almost all farms will cut at least 10-20% less wool compared to last season’, says Andrew Blanch. ‘Whilst there will definitely be less wool in general, the amount of ultra-fine wool (<16.0 micron) will probably increase. A large wool2yarnglobal 2019
Industry news percentage of this very fine micron will be of lower quality and tensile strength due to the poor growing conditions. The market may find this increase in ultra-fine wool hard to absorb – it is generally a very niche market. As a result, prices in this area may struggle to maintain current levels. Wool growers will generally have a larger proportion of their clip in this ultrafine and/or poorer quality sector, so subsequently, returns will be negatively impacted.’ Andrew Blanch further commented that ‘the buyers of “high-end” superfine and ultrafine material (sound/good length/stylish 14.8-16.4u), will struggle to find reasonable quantities of these wools, and I expect a 2 tier market could well develop with these better wools being particularly sought after and receiving sizeable premiums. Add to this the increased demand for non-mulesed wools in this micron range, growers able to offer sound/ stylish NM/CM product may well receive very good competition on their best wool, albeit on a smaller quantity than they were able to offer last season’. Most Australian superfine wool is exported to manufacturers in Europe, particularly Italy. So how will they cope with this shift in quality and availability? Andrew Blanch says, ‘it is a little early to tell for the new season. Basically, the users of superfine wool (which is all user countries now as the clip has become finer) will require less material this coming season due to the slow sell out of retail, manufactured goods and fabrics. The general consensus is that most processors of tops/yarn/fabric are facing sales at least 30% less than the same period last year. That being the case, less wool will be required to satisfy demand. However, wool still needs to be bought and there is definitely less wool on the market. Every wool user will have their own buying strategy. Some will buy less but just concentrate their buying 12 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
in the best types, higher yields, sound wools to guarantee predictable processing results and as an insurance policy against quality claims. Some large operators may be comfortable to take up an increased quantity of the lower quality offering but at a price which takes into account the higher than normal processing and transport costs. ‘But looking further ahead, there is a huge trend in the world for clean, green and natural fibres and wool continues to grow in areas outside the traditional formal suiting areas. So as economies improve around the world, (and assuming we can sell our sustainable credentials effectively to the consumer), supply of quality raw material will definitely become an issue. Innovation in processing and products will play a huge role in finding new ways to use all types/qualities of wool to satisfy the demand, particularly in the more casual close-to-skin active and sportswear markets.’ ‘Generally wool users would reduce wool content due to price reasons. I expect similar products will be made, but maybe just less of them. However, I do see issues of over-capacity in the early stage wool processing sector around the world. Where is the wool going to come from to fill these mills? I expect the next few years will see a huge consolidation in this area which will see some closures as the industry tries to manage these inefficiencies’, says Andrew Blanch. Steven Read also adds that ‘with wool supply down and seemingly demand down even further, coming of relatively high wool prices and wool current supply chains being challenged by a global move to protectionism, we enter the new season with some interesting forces at play. While this will create issues for some, other will see opportunities and move swiftly to capitalize on these and ensure the growing number of potential wool consumers at retail globally will have access to high quality wool products, which we have seen in the last three years, they want. And just as importantly that they are prepared to pay good prices to own them’.
Industry news For all the uncertainty created by China/US trade disputes some leading Chinese textile manufacturers believe that things are not as bad as it may look. The Chinese economy is still growing at around 6% each year. So far most textile products have been exempt from Trump’s extra duties. Products such as double sided fabric and fake fur are still doing reasonably well with Chinese consumers at least at the higher end. Most top, yarn, and fabric from China is exported to Europe, Japan, and Korea. And according to Chinese sources exports to those countries are still doing relatively well. In particular, the knitting sector in Japan is performing well. Large and medium sized manufacturers in China are now operating with greater flexibility, shutting down and starting up again quickly, as needed. However the domestic Chinese market and exports to the USA is of concern. ‘It is true that some major US retailers are holding back from placing orders with Chinese textile producers expecting the trade dispute to sort itself out’, says a leading exporter of Cashmere sweaters to the USA. ‘But major US retailers can’t wait any longer to order for the next season and China is the only country that can manufacture the quantity they need’. Consumers in China are rattled by USA behaviour, and their spending has declined. Therefore retailers in China are cautious about placing their orders for the next season, and as 80% of world wool production finishes up in China and much of that wool is used for domestic market, the lack of consumer confidence and spending will eventually impact on wool prices. ‘Wool processing in China is under pressure from a number of fronts this season and it appears that some forces behind the headwinds they are facing will not be solved swiftly’, says Steven Read. ‘Chronic over capacity which has been made worse with the reduction in wool production as a result of the Australian drought, high stock levels, tightening up of access to finance by Chinese
banks, stricter enforcement of regulations by Chinese environmental, worker safety and quarantine authorities have all combined to challenge many in the Chinese wool processing sector. In addition we have seen an easing in confidence by the domestic consumer in China which has impacted retail sales of wool garment and the redirection of some orders destined for the USA to wool processors outside China by a number of major retail buyers. ‘It will be interesting to see how the Chinese wool processing sector which has dominated the global wool industry for some time now will deal with these issue in the coming season’, Steven Read says. Many analysts forecast that U.S. tariffs on Chinese goods would reduce China’s exports by 2.7% and slash GDP growth by 50 basis points. China will likely ramp up stimulus to shield its economy as the U.S. threatens additional tariffs. China will have to support its domestic economy to achieve its growth target of 6% to 6.5%. Most economists agree that Beijing is likely to wait it out rather than agree to US conditions. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Wool production continues to decline T otal wool production in 2019 was 1,123.2 mkg clean. Production in 2020 is predicted to be 1,114.8 mkg clean.
The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee reported in April 2019 that Australian shorn wool production for 2018/19 was 298 mkg greasy. This is a 12.7% decline from the levels in 2017/18 and reflects the continuing drought conditions across large parts of Australia. The Committee’s first forecast for 2019/20 is for shorn wool production to be 285 mkg greasy, a further fall of 4.5%, due to a reduction in the number of sheep expected to be shorn. This early forecast assumes normal seasonal conditions in 2019/20. The Committee noted that welcome rain fell across several key wool producing areas around the country during the last week of March but recognised followup falls will be necessary. Wool producers recognise the value of their breeding ewes and are intending to hold them where possible.
New Zealand New Zealand wool production in 2019 was 102.2 million kg clean. There are 27 million sheep in New Zealand and around 25,000 farms, with the average farm running 3,000 sheep. Wool production in 2019/20 is expected to be unchanged. China still dominates the purchase of New Zealand wool, taking just under half of all exports. The second biggest market for New Zealand wool is the European Union followed by the Middle East. Production for 2020 is predicted to be 104.4 mkg clean, a 2.1% increase on the previous year.
South Africa South African wool industry had a challenging 2019. At the beginning of the year China banned all South African wool imports due to a foot and mouth disease outbreak. This ban was lifted by mid-year. The drought is still impacting in some wool growing regions. And 6 million kg of Lesotho wool usually sold through 14 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
South African wool auction was stopped by the Lesotho government. China continues to be the main destination for South African wool. South Africa is the 4th largest wool producing country in the world and the second largest producer of fine Merino wool, after Australia. Wool production in South Africa in 2019 is expected to be 29.2 mkgs clean, a drop of 1.8% on 2018. The forecast for 2020 is expected to show improvement. The South African clip is predominantly Merino. Between 65 - 75% of this clip is fleece wools with the balance being made up of locks, belly wools, and lambs’ wool. It is high yielding. Seed contamination is limited, with more than 80% of the clip normally exhibiting very low levels (2% or less). The majority of the South African clip is 17 - 24 micron with more than 98% of the clip finer than 24 microns
USA USA sheep and lamb inventory as of January 1, 2019 totalled 5.23m head, down 1% from 2018. Wool production for 2018 decreased by 2% to 5.53 mkgs clean weight (USDA/NASS official statistics). Micron range remained steady ranging from 18.5 to approximately 34 microns. Overall seasonal conditions were normal with some areas of moderate drought. While wool prices, both domestically and internationally were volatile, they remained historically high, resulting in virtually no wool stock carryover from 2018 to 2019 and the same situation remained for the 2019 season. 2018 was a very unusual year for USA wool exports, driven largely by the international market situation and in particular the trade issues between the USA and China. Total exports amounted to 4,670 metric tonnes with
Industry news China the dominant market with a 37.6 percent increase in exports compared to 2017. Other markets included Mexico, Western Europe, Eastern Europe, India and Canada. Normally exports of US wool amount to 55% - 70% of US wool production, but the international market situation and a somewhat slower domestic market situation drove 2018 exports by weight to a recent historical high of 84% of the USA wool clip.
Argentina Argentine wool production is steady at 43,750 tons greasy. Only 1,500 tons are used in domestic consumption, the majority is exported in greasy, scoured, and tops. Last year Argentina exported 6154.8 (tons clean) of greasy wool, 1237.7 tons scoured wool and 11481.4 tons of tops. China is the main destination of greasy wool, taking 3122.2 tons last season. The biggest buyer of tops was Germany taking 4335.9 tons.
Uruguay According to SUL production in 2018/2019 was 26.500 tons greasy basis. In total Uruguay exports in 2018 /2019 was 43.000 tons greasy basis, this is represented by 55% tops, 26% scoured, and 19% greasy. Estimated production 2019 / 2020 – 25.000 tons greasy basis.
UK UK has been dominated by Brexit issues. Production in 2019 was 23.9 mkg a 1.8% increase on 2018. Much rain has affected the wool quality over the last season but it is expected that the coming season will see a return to better quality wool. The forecast for 2020 is 23.6 mkg clean, a reduction of 1.2% on this year. Source: SUL, B&L NZ, ASI, Delta Consultants, Cape Wool SA, IWTO national committee reports, FAO and Poimena Analysis, AWPFC. All production figures and forecasts are as at time of printing
World Wool Production Total - mkg clean mkg clean
“Apparel” wool IWTO countries Australia
“Interior textile” wool IWTO countries China
Source: Chris Wilcox Chairman, Market Intelligence Committee of IWTO, IWTO national committee reports, FAO and Poimena Analysis. Note: Updated: 1 April 2019 = 2018/19 for Australia, NZ, Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa.
16 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
New Licensing Scheme for British Wool
n 2018 British Wool implemented a new licensing scheme in the UK and China, with Japan planned by the end of January 2020. Graham Clark, Director of Marketing, explains the rationale.
“Historically our licensing scheme was very much based on trust. Our new scheme interrogates the supply chain at every stage - right back to the wool merchants - via an on-line portal, ensuring products have the appropriate content of verified British wool.” “The new scheme is crucial as it ensures we spend our marketing budget on brands and products which are using high proportions of British wool. It has certainly been an interesting process, and has allowed us to streamline the number of licensees we work with, which is exactly what we planned as we were always interested in quality as opposed to quantity. As a result, we are able to add more value to this group through our various marketing activities.” New branding was also implemented as part of the new scheme. “As part of this process it was crucial for us to update our licensing branding.This is the mark that we promote to consumers so they can identify British wool rich products. As we have launched the licensing scheme on a global basis, it was important to make the marks authentically British, especially to appeal to Chinese and Japanese markets, whilst ensuring we kept certain recognisable elements of the current branding such as the crook mark. The new branding does exactly this.”
brands we are promoting meet our licensee criteria.” As British wool is such a versatile fibre, the scheme has been designed to cover many different types of products. “Interest in the scheme has been very encouraging and will only increase as downstream partners realise the many benefits derived from our new consumer targeted approach. This interest has been across many product types, especially in the UK, where we have licensees such as Brintons Carpets, Camira Fabrics and the Silentnight Group.” Clark continues, “On the back of opening our Shanghai office, we launched the scheme in China at Domotex in March. Interest was high and we are currently working on adding a number of leading carpet manufacturers as well as a couple of companies we are working with on new projects. Interest in Japan will no doubt be just as high.” Clark concludes “The new scheme allows us to really focus our marketing activities on brands and products with the correct levels of British wool. This allows us to fully concentrate our efforts on ensuring we are working towards increasing the price of British wool, and ultimately the returns ourwool producers receive.”
British Wool at Domotex, Shanghai
To help vet and control the scheme, British Wool is working with a company who are able to define the content of British wool all the way through the manufacturing process from greasy wool to end product. Clark commented, “This will allow us to test that end products do indeed have the correct British wool content, which gives the scheme a high level of credibility and helps ensure the products and wool2yarnglobal 2019
Industry news By Victor Chesky
Q &A with Colette Garnsey OAM
s Colette Garnsey OAM has been an Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) Board member since 2011 and Deputy Chair since 2017. She was appointed as Chairman in November 2018. Ms Garnsey’s early childhood was spent on sheep properties in western NSW. She has 39 years of retail, wholesale, distribution and marketing experience with Australia’s top brands. Currently Ms Garnsey is Non Executive Director of Flight Centre Travel Group, Seven West Media and until recently was a Trade, Tourism and Investment Policy Advisory Council advisor to the Federal Government. Ms Garnsey has also been Advisory Board member of CSIRO; Advisory Board member Australian Government Innovation Council; Director Australian Fashion Week; and Judge at Veuve Clicquot Business Women of the Year.
and evaluation are the company’s imminent investment and operational priorities. The company had commenced several projects focussed on traceability during the past five years and these projects are now at a point of maturity that is appropriate for a strategy to be developed.
There are challenging times ahead for AWI - the Australian wool clip will reduce a further 4% next season, on the back of the 12% reduction of recent seasons. The wool levy has also been reduced from 2% to 1.5%. These factors will have an effect on AWI revenue. I asked Ms Garnsey how she sees AWI adapting to this new normal?
In taking this strategic approach, we considered a macro-consumer trend that is emerging, recognising generation Ys and generation Zs are going to be more interested in the source of materials in the future. They will want to know where something has come from, how it was treated, what the supply chain did with it and where it is going to at the end.
A. AWI remains cognisant of the ongoing impact of the drought and
Q. AWI has been very successful in
its influence on the wool clip production levels. In responding to the reduced production and the 1.5 per wool levy, the company has strategically targeted its investments and managed a draw down on its reserves to enhance the profitability and international competitiveness to increase demand and market access for Australian wool. As woolgrowers adjust to the seasonal conditions, so too has AWI adapted. We have cut our cloth to match our funding.
Q. The new three-year strategic plan has now been released. What do you see as the most immediate priorities for AWI to address in the next 12-18 months?
A. AWI’s overriding commitment is to support Australian woolgrowers and ensure they get the best price for their wool. The board of AWI has worked with management in developing the company’s strategic plan for the next three years. Traceability, consultation, measurement 18 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
developing new applications for Merino wool. Research and marketing both play a role in increasing market share. How is the funding split between R&D and market determined?
A. The investment allocation of marketing and R&D is shared 60:40 which we believe continues to be the right funding mix for our company to deliver benefits to woolgrowers of Australia. This investment, coupled with AWI’s stratgegic plan maps a way forward through to 2022 striking a balanced position that meets the expectations of woolgrowers, our levy-payers, woolgrower representative groups and government.
Südwolle Group opens new mill in Vietnam
alat Worsted Spinning Co is a new joint venture company between Südwolle Group of Germany (majority) and Lien Phuong Textile & Garment Corporation of Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam. Dalat Worsted Spinning Co is situated in Dalat city, Lam Dong province in southern Vietnam. Prior to the commencement of production in July this year an opening ceremony was held with Buddhist monks blessing the new venture, as some 100 team members watched on. The company mill was designed by AB Wittig (Germany) in collaboration with MaiArchi Architectural Design Company (Vietnam) and covers 26.000 m2. The architecture is based on the principle of timeless harmony with the natural surroundings, and the principles behind the building structure and materials is sustainability and ecology. To date the investment in this joint venture has been $ 40 million. The total production capacity of the first stage is expected to be 2,500 tons per year. Thesecond stage will add an additional 1,300 tons per year, bringing the total yarn production capacity to 3,800 tons per year.
The current number of employees is 135 and this is expected to swell to 240 as the second stage of production is implemented. ‘Behind any good project there are good people’, said Alessandro Di Palma, the mill Director. ‘We have implemented an enterprise resource planning (ERP) system and our long term vision is to build a company that will benefit the socioeconomic development in Dalat city in particular and Vietnam in general. Dalat Worsted Spinning mill aspires to be the first choice in worsted yarns’. Dalat Worsted Spinning Co will export its yarn to Europe, Japan, USA, and sell on the domestic market in Vietnam. The company expects to achieve revenue of $ 50 million per year in its first stage and $ 100 million per year as full production comes on stream. ‘Vietnam has been chosen strategically because it fits perfectly into our existing network and offers many customer benefits especially in terms of customs and logistics’.
NZWTA expands capabilities into flammability testing
ZWTA offers various forms of flammability testing services to support the wider textiles and building materials industries. The company has recently invested in new testing equipment which has
extended the suite of accredited flammability tests. Of most interest is the Australian Standard AS1530.2 Test for Flammability of Materials. This test is called upon as part
of the New Zealand Building Code as the key fire testing method for building materials, components and structures. NZWTA Ltd has a comprehensive understanding of the background of AS1530.2 and can provide test reports on conformance with various applications. If you are involved with manufacturing or importing products that require flammability testing, contact NZWTA Ltd firstname.lastname@example.org wool2yarnglobal 2019
innovation in wool
AWI/The Woolmark Company
WIND AND WATER RESISTANT WOOL Using the latest Optim spinning techniques, The Woolmark Company, in partnership with The Nanshan Group, have created a 100% Australian Merino wool fabric that is resistant to both wind and rain. Neulana Protect delivers a unique, high-performance fabric that is ideal for outer-wear apparel. TM
LIGHTWEIGHT WOOL TERRY LOOP JERSEY This sweater is constructed using terry loop jersey with 100% Merino wool, elevating a traditionally casual sweater into a functional and performing sports luxe item. The relaxed silhouette coupled with this slightly stretchy knit allows for a comfortable and lightweight garment, finished to be machine washable. 20 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
MERINO WOOL DENIM
CONVERTIBLE PUFFER JACKET
Denim continues to be one of the world’s most popular fabrics, so it was only a matter of time before brands began incorporating highperformance Merino wool fibre into their denim. Recent production developments including the use of machine washable wool yarns have led to a more cost-effective way to produce Wool Denim.
This year’s International Woolmark Prize womenswear winner Colovos developed a puffer jacket with 100% wool insulation rather than down feathers, and 90% wool outer fabric that’s totally traceable, as well as being water and wind resistant. The garment’s construction also allows it to be hung and fastened over the shoulder when it gets warm, enabling the wearer to adapt to changing indoor and outdoor temperatures without losing arm freedom.
JACQUARD WOOL FUR RUN SOCK-FREE IN WOOL SHOES Gone are the days of wool only being used for slippers; wool sneakers and other varieties of wool shoes are on the rise. The success of wool in footwear lies not only in the fibre’s natural properties, but also in its ability to be constructed in a way that aids performance.
Chinese designer Angel Chen made a jacquard fur coat for this year’s International Woolmark Prize, though not with animal hide, but with 100% wool yarn dyed in six tones with reactive ANOFIX dyes. Developed and engineered especially for wool to create vibrant colours - it shows how well wool can take colour - and as a method that is more environmentally friendly to chrome-based dyes.
AWI/The Woolmark Company
innovation in wool
A SUSTAINABLE, HIGH PERFORMANCE BOARDSHORT
SCREEN-PRINTED WOOL WITH PROTEIN DISSOLVING PIGMENT
Developed with The Woolmark Company, Outerknown’s Woolaroo boardshort is a throwback to the golden age of surfing, when trunks were considered equipment and made from a heavy twill fabric. Now, thanks to innovations in fibre, fabric and manufacturing techniques, a highperformance weather resistant fabric made from 100% Australian Merino wool hits the surf, with a strong environmental mission.
This year’s International Woolmark Prize menswear winner, Edward... Crutchley created a lightweight 100% wool weave, hand-printed and treated by a master of screen-printing in Kyoto. First, printed with beige strips and then black ink, the whole textile was then discharged using a proteindissolving pigment to give the laceeffect and scalloped hem; a process uniquely suited to the protein-fibre of wool. This effect was then highlighted with a gold foil edge, a technique the screen-printer had never used before.
Edward Crutchley also created for this year’s International Woolmark Prize a lightweight 100% wool weave, handprinted and treated by a master of screen-printing in Kyoto. First, printed with beige strips and then black ink, the whole textile was then discharged using a protein-dissolving pigment to give the lace-effect and scalloped hem; a process uniquely suited to the protein-fibre of wool. This effect was then highlighted with a gold foil edge, a technique the screen-printer had never used before.
WORLD’S LIGHTEST TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE T-SHIRT
KNITTED PUFFER COAT For this year’s International Woolmark Prize, i-am-chen created a flat-knitted puffer coat with 100% extrafine Merino wool for insulation inside the jacket and 100% superfine Merino wool for the outer, all of which are knitted in one single piece by China-based Aussco’s research lab in Dhouse.
The world’s lightest technical performance T-shirt, made from Australian Merino wool. The Rhythm Tee has been developed by leading outdoor brand Black Diamond, with a reputation as a leader in innovation. Utilising the natural properties of Merino wool, such as odour resistance, moisture wicking and breathability, the Rhythm T-shirt by Black Diamond is the world’s lightest technical performance Merino wool T-shirt. Available for men and women, this ultralight T-shirt features breakthrough Nuyarn Merino wool fabric technology, weighing just 95gsm. This makes the Black Diamond Rhythm T-shirt significantly lighter than previous wool shirts, while retaining durability and performance benefits iconic to wool. The fabric is also engineered for incredible stretch and much faster drying times, making it the ultimate climbing or hiking shirt. To complete the hardiness of the garment, it is also machine washable. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Planning ahead programs that address key industry issues and opportunities across the global supply chain for Australian wool. It plans to invest AUD 84 million in 2019/20, AUD78 million in 2020/21, and AUD71 million in 2021/22. The framework for the strategic plan is divided into five areas including sheep production and science and technology; consultation within the supply chain; traceability of information up and down the supply chain; processing, innovation, and education; and marketing.
ustralian Wool Innovation (AWI) released its new strategic plan in June this year outlining its priorities for the next 3 years. The reduction of the levy from 2% to 1.5% along with the impact of the drought on wool production has reduced AWI revenue for these 3 years. Stuart McCullough AWI CEO comments that ‘AWI revenue is largely dependent on the wool levy income, which is determined by wool production volumes and prices. The wool levy percentage is fixed for the duration of this 3 year period. However the impact on production as the result of the drought is harder to predict’, he says. ‘On this basis AWI will continue to monitor the impact on revenue and adjust its operations and expenditure as appropriate but will continue to work across the full wool supply chain investing in opportunities that maximise returns and benefits to the Australian wool grower’. The strategic plan is a comprehensive document detailing 13 strategies and 29
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According to Stuart McCullough ‘the key change is traceability and the first stage of the traceability journey is AWI’s WoolQ project which was designed to offer clean digital data straight from the farm’, he says. ‘We must provide tools to ease the flow of information on the benefits of wool and provenance to all parties’. AWI has since developed a self-declaration digital edge app to compliment WoolQ which can record all the best practice duties that are performed on-farm. “Mulesing is widely talked about, so that will be covered through the National Wool Declarations (NWDs). Other aspects of traceability include land care, animal welfare, farm safety and best practice strategies will all be captured electronically. Once we have that information we can then use block-chain technology to share this information with the supply chain, all the way into the hands of the consumer. Swing tags are not going to hold enough information for the consumer in the future,” Stuart McCullough said. “Consumers will be able to swipe their phone over a garment and have not only the provenance story come up on their phone, but potentially they will be able to go back to the farm where it came from. This is something we believe the consumer of the future is going to want to see.”
Industry news AWI marketing will introduce technologies such as augmented reality in-store, and by applying data mapping to predict consumers’ online buying behaviour. It also plans tomake the most of any new technology that helps in this space including machine learning, interactive retail, NFC tags (near field communication) and more.’The rise of modern technology provide more opportunities than ever before to better educate customers about the benefits of wool fibre and increase customer loyalty and increase retail sales. It also provides better information about their purchase and how to care for it’, saysStuart McCullough. On-farm agri-tech initiatives such as smart tags, artificial intelligence, and revisiting robotic shearing are some areas that will be looked at to increase farm productivity. Stuart McCullough expects economic conditions to remainchallenging and demand for wool that may settle under the supply number. Economic growth in major economies, except the US, has been low. The Western Hemisphere including USA, UK, France, Italy and Northern Europe is the largest consumption market for wool, buying around 45% of wool apparel. It is also home to major retail brands. ‘We will continue to work with designers and brands, and focus on product innovation. We willconcentrate on consumer education in the USA and raise the profile of wool in sport and activewear. Sponsoring the Boston Marathon, one of the largest sporting events, is one such activity we are involved in’. The Eastern Hemisphere covers the key markets of China, Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, and Vietnam. This region, as a whole, received 88% of Australia’s greasy wool exports in 2017/18. China alone now purchases 80% of Australian wool. China is not only the largest producer of wool products but is now the largest consumer market. ‘We will continue to use our Wool Resource Centre in Hong Kong and focus on the rapid growth of the middle class in this region and educate them about eco-friendly wool products, and with an
emphasis on online retail as this is their most used buying medium’. In April 2020, Luna Rossa will set sail as part of the America’s Cup World Series, as it vies for the world’s oldest trophy in international sport. AWI/The Woolmark Company has worked with Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli to develop high-performance Merino wool garments ideal for the challenging conditions of the America’s Cup. ‘There is a great opportunity to position Australian wool as the ultimate technical fibre for performance and outdoor apparel’, says Stuart McCullough. ‘Our subsidiary The Woolmark Company will continue to partner with the key areas in the supply chain to innovate new yarns, textiles, garments, and processes and work with major brands to introduce wool to new categories in performance and environmental sustainability’.
AWI/The Woolmark Company has worked with Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli to develop high-performance Merino wool garments ideal for the challenging conditions of the America’s Cup
Environmental recognition for Uruguayan topmaker
anas Trinidad is the first company in Latin America to be awarded ANDE (Agencia Nacional para el Desarrollo Sostenible - National Agency for Sustainable Development) & PAGE UN (Partnership for Action on Green Economy - a United Nations program) with the Circular Economy Trophy. This award recognised Lanas Trinidad achievements in 100% waste water reuse including irrigation of its tree plantation, and recognition for reduced electricity use - 20-30% of electricity used to run the mill is derived from its own waste and renewable source. Lanas Trinidad is the largest wool processor in Uruguay with a processing capacity of 10,000 tons of dry combed wooltops per year. Mr Pedro Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad says ‘for more than 20 years Lanas Trinidad has been working on a concept of green and clean production to contribute to a friendlier environment. We must deliver a better environment to future generations than the one we inherited’! ‘To wash our wool we use our own water supply system that is wholly sourced from rainwater’, says Pedro Otegui. ‘Our reservoir has a capacity of 1 million cubic metres of water that is supplied through an aqueduct some 7km long. The water is natural and renewable’. Waste water is biologically treated in 22 aerobic and anaerobic lagoons in an area of 140 hectares. The bacteria in these lagoons naturally degrade waste water. The result is no discharge of waste water into the
The ANDE award acknowledges Lanas Trinidad for its improvements featuring 100% reuse of waste water and the use of electricity (25-30%) created from renewable sources and generated from its own mill waste
public water system and irrigation of the Lanas Trinidad tree plantation ensures that carbon dioxide is reduced. ‘We are aware of the effects of greenhouse gases and believe in good environmental practice’. Pedro Otegui also points out that feeding the boilers with wood, mainly from their own plantation is a further way to make use of renewable and local resources. ‘By capturing the methane generated in the anaerobic process we are reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 95%. Using the combustion of this methane-rich gas is then used to generate electrical power is the equivalent to the power consumption of 650 households.
Lanas Trinidad treats water after processing for use in irrigation for local agriculture
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Pedro Otegui adds that ‘in addition to our clean green production we pay special attention to human resources and to animal welfare –no mulesing is performed in Uruguay’.
Actively Supporting Quality and Sustainable Wool Production Proudly supporting
SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme finds a new home with the Australian Wool Exchange
ew England Wool Pty Ltd and Italian fabric makers Successori Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico have transferred ownership of The SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme to the Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX). The SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme was launched in 2015 in response to demand from consumers and retailers. Since its inception, over 950 farms have been accredited, making it the largest sustainability scheme in the wool industry worldwide. “The SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme
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provides wool producers the opportunity to showcase the efforts that allow them to produce a quality and sustainable product from their valued stock,” Andrew Blanch, Managing Director of New England Wool.“We want to share the opportunities in the scheme with all wool producers and users around the world to help us work and grow together in an increasingly competitive and sustainability conscious landscape.” In a landmark decision to expand the scheme to all professional wool producers in Australia, the owners, developers and managers of the SustainaWOOL™ Integrity Scheme signed a Memorandum of Understanding in May 2019
Industry news to relinquish 100% ownership of the scheme to the fully independent industry body, the Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX). “At a special Board Meeting late last week, we unanimously agreed to complete the transfer of SustainaWOOL™, in time for the start of the 2019/20 wool selling season,” Mark Grave, CEO of the Australian Wool Exchange. ‘Thanks to its new home with the independent industry body, the Scheme will be able to develop and grow, allowing wool from accredited farms to be made available to all users worldwide’. “Finally, an independent body can take the lead on sustainability.AWEX was the natural answer to our project and the Australian wool producers deserve it. We are very proud that we can provide the wool industry with this gift,” says Francesco Botto Poala, COO of Successori Reda. “We have been working hard for four years in
Andrew Blanch New England Wool
order to build the most important Integrity Scheme in the world. It is an independent powerful system bringing added value, not only to the Australian wool industry, but also to the whole supply chain. SustainaWOOL is indeed one of the strongest support structures for the modern green world”, says Alessandro Barberis Canonico, CEO of Vitale Barberis Canonico. AWEX has received overwhelming encouragement and support from the wider wool community to provide the Australian wool industry with a single, rigorously audited sustainability scheme that is independently owned and operated. “As an independent industry owned and operated program, AWEX now has the opportunity to make SustainaWOOLTM available to all wool users,” Mr Grave said. Globally, customers of wool are demanding evidence of sustainability through independent and credible integrity programs.
Francesco Botto Paolo Successori Reda
Alessandro Barberis Canonico Vitale Barberis Canonico
Mark Grave CEO AWEX
Dr Paul Swan has been appointed Program Manager of SustainaWOOL™ by AWEX. He has extensive experience in wool production and wool textile research in Australia and internationally, including over a decade in senior executive roles for Australian Wool Innovation, and past roles for International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), including Chairing the IWTO Sustainable Practices, Product Wellness, and Wool Trade Biosecurity Working Groups.
Danspin acquires Lawton yarns
NZWTA supports international suppliers with IWTO certification
ew Zealand Wool testing Authority (NZWTA) is often asked to provide testing services to wool-producing countries that do not have a significant industry infrastructure. Phil Cranswick, NZWTA Customer Services Manager, says in these situations, suppliers have two options. ‘Firstly, testing can be requested on samples where NZWTA has not been involved in the sampling. In this case NZWTA will produce a Test Report after testing has been completed on the supplied samples. This test report status applies even where testing was performed to the relevant IWTO standards. The second option is where NZWTA can set up formal sampling systems to comply with IWTO Regulations. Under these circumstances, where both sampling and testing are fully compliant with IWTO Regulations and Test Methods, NZWTA can producean IWTO Test Certificate, since NZWTA is an IWTO-licensed laboratory’. IWTO test certification provides the greatest confidence to global buyers on the quality of the wool, allowing wool to be sold to the wider market and maximum value to be gained. As well as in New Zealand, NZWTA currently provides test certification on wool from Chile and the Falkland Islands. If you are interested in getting wool sampled and/ or tested for an IWTO Test Certificate or Test Report, contact NZWTA at email@example.com 28 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
anspin, Danish yarn manufacturing company acquired UK Lawton Yarns in June 2019. Dewsbury-based Lawton Yarns has been operating for more than a century and supplies more than 50 carpet manufacturers in the UK, Europe and other international locations.
‘We see this merger as a positive step to continue to support our reliable partners with competitive quality yarn, developments and optimal logistic solutions’, says Lars Pedersen of Danspin. ‘This step is made to generate critical mass to run 2 efficient spinning mills with focus on quality, service, and reliable partnership. We see this as an important and necessary step for the industry to secure and help grow the interest of wool carpet. We will continue to invest in developments and efficiency improvements to consolidate our business’. The acquisition is expected to protect Lawton Yarn’s natural wool products from competing synthetic products. Danspin and Lawton Yarns will continue to run as separate companies. Danspin has been investing into yarn manufacturing over the years. 15 years ago the company shifted its yarn and dyeing production to Lithuania. This factory processes 8 million kilos of yarn per year. 6 million of this is woollen yarn and a further 2 million is blends. The company predominantly uses New Zealand wool for higher end carpets and is a brand partner with Bloch & Behrens New Zealand. It exports its yarn within Europe, and to USA, and Asia.
Vietnam - win or lose in US China trade dispute
ietnam is caught in a win or lose situation as the US China trade dispute continues. The country has been benefiting from the ongoing situation to the point that it is at risk of being hit with punitive American duties. A number of textile companies in China are looking at relocating their manufacturing plants to Vietnam. Vietnam’s young and comparatively cheap labor force, stable government, and business-friendly environment have turned this Southeast Asian nation into an appealing alternative to China. Intel Corp and Samsung were early to spot its promise for manufacturing. Vietnam’s government granted investment licenses to more than 1,720 projects in the first six months of the 2019, up 26% from the same period last year. Economic growth in Vietnam in 2019 is expected to increase by as much as 6.8%, one of the fastest rates in the world. Yet its dependence on exports makes it particularly vulnerable to the surge in protectionism. Its annual trade surplus with the U.S. had already been growing at a rapid clip, reaching $40 billion in 2018. It totalled $25.3 billion in the first six months of this year, 39% higher than the same period last year, according to U.S. Census Bureau data. The Trump administration has seized on the worsening
imbalance as evidence that some companies are funneling made-in-China products through Vietnam to avoid tariffs, a practice known as trans-shipment. “The United States has been clear with Vietnam that it has to take action to reduce the unsustainable trade deficit,” said U.S. Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer in a written communication with the Senate Finance Committee. The threat of new duties against Vietnamese products is real, says Sian Fenner, a Singapore-based economist at Oxford Economics, noting that the nation’s textile, computer, and seafood exports to the U.S. are especially at risk. The Americans’ increasingly hostile rhetoric has some companies rethinking their Vietnam strategy. Eclat Textile Co., a Taiwanese company that manufactures sportswear for Nike Inc. and Lululemon Athletica Inc., says it needs to shift work out of Vietnam to hedge against the possibility of the country getting caught in Trump’s tariff assault. BBCB notes that unlike China’s response to tariffs, Vietnam’s reaction most likely would be conciliatory for one simple reason: It needs the U.S. much more than the U.S. needs Vietnam. Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc, has directed officials to increase efforts to crack down on Chinese exporters that are rerouting products through the country. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Innovation for high-end carpet and upholstery designers
lacial XT scouring technology from Wools of New Zealand (WoNZ) produces significantly brighter and whiter wool. Although New Zealand wool is known for its good colour, strength, cleanliness, and superior lustre there can still be colour variations within a season. ‘Our exclusive Glacial XT application treats wool at the scouring stage to achieve a consistent brighter fibre. This is commercially significant, as it provides improvements in the base colour of scoured wool without the use of optical brighteners and without adverse effects on the fibre or finished products. Reduced batch variability means greater consistency for dyers, spinners and manufacturers’, says WoNZ Craig Sheridan Commercial Innovation Manager. ‘This innovation has created a new space for high-end carpet manufactures and upholstery designers. The previous design challenges to tufted and printed carpet production are greatly reduced. New and lighter colour shades can be more easily achieved with enhancements in both brightness and lustre creating interest from designers and customers’, he says. Glacial XT improves consistency of wool colour irrespective of seasonal climatic effect that results in exceptionally clean wool with very low ash content, residual grease and with
David Hobson - a Wools of New Zealand grower of the year
enhanced lustre and brightness. ‘Glacial XT is significantly brighter than conventionally scoured wool (Y-value 70.6 vs 64.4) and significantly whiter (Y-Z 0.2 vs 3.6). With good colour greasy input, wools Y values in excess of 73 and Y-Z of -3+ are achievable’, says Craig Sheridan. A cleaner, more consistent fibre results in benefits throughout processing and into the finished product. This includes increased dyehouse efficiencies due to greater consistency and levelness in wool deliveries and improved colour matching for dyers. Greater colour stability is also achieved especially in undyed / ecru yarn, and improved dye-uptake resulting in greater depth of colour and design clarity. Enhanced colour saturation compared with conventional-scoured wool is also achieved. Increased blind dye rate reduces the amount of redying required, which contributes to a significant reduction in the cost of labour, energy, water and plant utilisation. ‘This opens enormous scope to develop more fashionable, colourcritical hues such as clean naturals, delicate pastels and deep darks, beyond what conventionally scoured wool can achieve. The scouring and subsequent processing of Glacial XT wool poses no adverse health and safety or environmental implications Glacial® is a registered trademark of Wools of New Zealand’. Glacial XT is available exclusively through Wools of New Zealand. ‘Our supply chains are traceable and sustainable at all times. We aim to grow the highest quality wool in the most environmentally sensitive way. We have access to world-leading technical expertise and to some of the world’s preeminent wool processors, manufacturers and brands’.
Craig Sheridan with Glacial XT NZ wool
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Craig Sheridan can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
MAKING THE WORLDâ€™S BEST WOOL EVEN BETTER Wools of New Zealand are renowned for producing the worldâ€™s best wool that is clean, white and strong. Glacial XT is a scouring process exclusive to Wools of New Zealand that achieves the purest white wool consistently throughout the year.
3 Delivers improved base fibre 3 More uniform, clean, bright, white substrate 3 Enhanced visual effects 3 More dramatic aesthetics due to elevated brightness 3 Improved colour stability particularly in light shades 3 Improved depth of shade and clarity of colour, particularly in dark shades
Find out more about GlacialXT and Wools of New Zealand
Going Strong By Dalena White
While fine wools like Merino grab the headlines, coarser wools have been struggling to find their footing. But a number of ingenious product innovations shows how opportunities for strong wools are gaining strength.
where broader wools make up the vast majority of the clip, has been significant. The cost to harvest the clip often exceeds the return from the sale.
hile prices for finer wools lifted to record highs during 2018 in a â€œMerino wool supercycle,â€? prices for Crossbred wool have struggled for the past two years. Fluctuations during the 2018/19 season have been nothing so dramatic as was seen in 2017. The trend is still largely downward, although prices have improved a little as we go to press (July 2019). The impact on the industry in countries such as the United Kingdom and New Zealand,
However, there are some bright spots. Production has remained steady. Low price relativity against competing fibres should encourage manufacturers to use more of these broader wools, IWTO Market Intelligence Committee Chair Chris Wilcox wrote in the latest edition of the IWTO Market Information. IWTO Secretary General Dalena White at the 2019 Congress in Venice
Along with increased demand, once excess stocks of broad Crossbred wool held in New
There is growing demand for Woolcool insulated liners and pouches for shipping temperature-sensitive pharmaceuticals such as vaccines and insulin.
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Conical 105x297mm_EN new.pdf
Conical 105x297mm_EN new.pdf
Zealand and elsewhere are cleared, prices should lift from 2018’s lows. We have seen some indication that more broad, Crossbred wool is being used in blends because of the low prices, along with its attractive anti-wrinkle and resistance properties. Modern weaving techniques make it possible to re-invent crossbred wool, so that it can be worn comfortably, and can be used in a range of products and garments.
Faux sure As we go to print, Crossbred wool prices in Australia have been recovering, even while prices in many Merino micron categories have fallen. A surge in orders for fake fur fabric made from this wool, led by the Chinese market, is driving prices towards new highs. The faux fur trend has been around for a couple of seasons, with fake fur garments selling well throughout the northern hemisphere’s winter. Only time will tell how long this fashion trend continues.
Innovation, Innovation, Innovation Wool innovations are connecting with consumers like never before, in a variety of products designed to maximise its natural properties: the filtering of VOCs, flame resistance, breathability, and more.
The success of wool shoes such as those from Allbirds and Giesswein has helped push the boundaries for wool product concepts. Often these innovations use broader wools to produce sustainable alternatives to synthetic products. Here is just a selection of some of the latest:
Too cool At the IWTO Congress in Venice, April 2019, we heard from UK-based Woolcool, which has created a new type of insulated packaging using coarse wool. The wool insulation keeps food and medicines at the correct temperature during shipping, so it arrives at destination safe to use and eat. As more and more people shop online, packaging has enormous implications for the environment. Woolcool’s products use an inner wool lining that will biodegrade in one year, and its outer cover is reusable and recyclable. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Wool healing Over in New Zealand, Tekapo entrepreneur Lucas Smith launched Woolaid, the world’s first adhesive wool bandages. These follow in the footsteps of Walk On, the merino wool blister protection pads he developed previously. Woolaid bandages are naturally hypoallergenic, antimicrobial, quick drying, comfortable, moisture wicking and flexible. The product is an upgrade from plasters and bandages made from single-use plastic or fabric that “didn’t seem right for the outdoors,” Smith says. When Woolaid recently launched online, stock sold out within 30 hours.
Greener waves Surfboards are traditionally made of foam housed in fiberglass, which is not easily recyclable. New Zealand surfer Paul Barron teamed up with the New Zealand Merino Company to develop a greener alternative using wool. The resulting new wool composite technology is being used by US-based Firewire Surfboards in its Woolight range.
When Woolaid recently launched online, these black Merino adhesive bandages sold out within 30 hours.
Not only does the new technology have the potential to produce boards that outperform traditional ones, it could also lead to fiberglass alternatives in boats, aircraft, and furniture.
Leap of faith pays off Over in New Zealand, the South Island pilot wool clothing project Agwool has created a unique opportunity for Crossbred wool. Ten farmers committed 2800 kg of 31-32-micron wool which was processed into worsted yarn in New Zealand, then made into high-quality, windproof jerseys in China. The project has been so successful that Agwool is looking to expand its product range to include socks and shirts as well as other items. Crossbred wool is rarely turned into worsted yarn, but the innovative business model made it possible to produce a competitively priced garment.
IWTO Wool Round Table – Queenstown in December ‘19 We look further into the Crossbred wool market and hearing from innovators like Woolaid’s Lucas Smith, at the IWTO Wool Round Table in Queenstown, New Zealand, 2-3 December 2019. For programme and other information, visit www.iwto.org/events/2019-wool-round-table. 34 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Keeping the world spinning
pinning natural fibres successfully requires the latest textile machinery and spinning rings are a fundamental component to ensure quality output in yarn production’, says Dr Pietro Prosino CEO PROSINO - Borgosesia Rings from the company manufacturing base in Biella Italy. ‘Our Steel Conical Rings are custom made, providing best spinning outcomes for any fibre. At a time when the cost of natural fibres is going up and delivery times are getting shorter uninterrupted production saves time and production cost. They provide extra speed and are a solution to reduce yarn breakage and yarn hairiness’, he says. PROSINO has been manufacturing spinning rings since 1946 and has a yearly production of 9.000.000 rings. It specialized in spinning rings for any frames operating for long and short staple fibre. The company manufactures spinning rings for all mill requirements including short staple rings, long staple rings and technical yarn rings. It supplies to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) companies including ZINSER, COGNETEX, and GAUDINO and works with many leading yarn manufacturers around the world.
Wear and tear over time alters the geometry of the ring and the surface will lose its initial characteristics and level of roughness. The co-efficient of friction between ring and traveller starts to change and increases the possibility of breakage and a decrease in control over the spinning process. ‘Our customers around the world know that reliable machinery components help keep frame performance at high levels, and maintain optimum yarn quality standards. Although cheaper rings of less quality are available all major spinners use our Prosino rings’, comments Pietro Prosino. Prosino uses 100Cr6 ball bearing steel for all its rings. It supplies a complete range of ring holders and ring-rails for the short and long staple segment, as well as sintered metal rings for technical textiles including carpet, fiber glass, and synthetic fibers. ‘Our rings ensure that the spinning process runs smoothly and performs at the highest level, maintaining optimum yarn quality standards’, says Dr Pietro Prosino. Dr Pietro Prosino can be contact at email@example.com
One such relationship is with Michell Perù, the largest Alpaca textile group in Peru and one of the world’s largest exporters of Alpaca top and yarn. Prosino has been supplying its Borgosesia Rings to this company since the 1980s. Josè Valdivieso - Director of Michell - Perù comments that ‘the quality of the rings and personalised service and attention from Prosino is excellent and has helped to strengthen our relationship. We must have reliable machinery to ensure that we are able to deliver our products on time and to best quality. Prosino Rings are an important part of our ability to achieve this outcome.
Jose Valdiviseso (left) during a visit to PROSINO premises in Italy
AWTA mulesing status reports
he Australian sheep and wool industry has made a strategic commitment to develop and implement alternatives to mulesing. Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) has invested heavily into research and development for programs to help wool growers eliminate mulesing or find suitable alternative practices. However, sheep producers cannot breed non-mulesed flocks overnight and it will take considerable time to achieve this, particularly for wool grown in areas prone to fly strike. The National Wool Declaration (NWD) scheme provides the opportunity for wool growers to include the Mulesing Status of their wool and is shown on Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) test certificates. The NWD is the standardised declaration method for Australia. NWD data is passed on to AWTA where it is published on Test Certificates and stored in AWTA Central database. This process occurs for virtually all wool which is presale tested by AWTA. The NWD declaration enables woolgrowers to promote their animal welfare practices (i.e. Mulesing Status) and the Dark and Medullated Fibre Risk (DMFR) of their wool to wool exporters, processors and retailers. 36 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Ian Ashman General Manager - Raw Wool AWTA
The Mulesing Status indicates whether wool is produced by mulesed or nonmulesed sheep and, if sheep have been mulesed, whether an analgesic was used to provide pain relief at the time of mulesing. Wool growers that have sheep that were previously mulesed may also declare that they have since ceased the practice of mulesing. The certificate shows mulesing status information - nonmulesed (NM), ceased mulesed (CM) and pain relief (PR). Statistics provided by the Australian Wool Exchange show that for the 2018/19 season, 43.3% of first hand wools eligible to be declared were either non-mulesed, ceased mulesing or mulesed with pain relief which is an increase from 40.6% for the previous season. ‘Our Mulesing Status Report assists companies along the wool supply chain by stating the mulesing status of the wool’, says Ian Ashman General Manager - Raw Wool AWTA. Furthermore, AWTA has provided an online service that allows purchasers of Australian wool to verify and check on the Mulesing Status of the wool that they have purchased. The AWTA Online Certificate Verification system allows holders of
AWTA Test Certificates to check, via email, that the certification they have received is genuine. This is done easily by entering the certificate number, some security information and an email address into an online form. ‘As part of this verification service, a separate Mulesing Status Reports can also be requested through this facility at no cost to the bona fide purchaser of the wool. Mulesing Status Reports can only be obtained using the test certificate number and security code of an IWTO Combined Certificate, which is supplied to the buyer of this wool. This service provides users of Australian wool will the ability to trace the mulesing status back to the original woolgrower declaration’ says Ian Ashman. The Mulesing Status report also presents the information in a more descriptive and easy to read format that can be provided to downstream customers, should they need additional verification of the mulesing status of their wool purchases. For more information please visit www.awtawooltesting.com.au and for Mulesing Report service https://www. awtawooltesting.com.au/index.php/ en/services/electronic-services/onlinecertificate-verification
from FARM to FASHION by Victor Chesky
Investment is not a static thing if the Tianyu business model is anything to go by. Just four years after its purchase of Lal Lal Estate near Ballarat in Victoria Australia it has again bought rural property in Australia. ‘The purchase of our second property on Australian soil at Mokanger and Lowana has enabled us to enlarge our wool growing business in Australia’, Quignan Wen said of the second property.
ianyu is the largest top maker in China and is the largest in the world. The annual output of scouring wool is 80,000 tons, sliver is 23,000 tons, and the annual process capacity of mercerized, shrinkproof and basolan wool is 8,000 tons. I first met Mr Wen some fifteen years ago, not long after he purchased BWK’s custom made
Andar scouring line, adding it to his already existing 4 lines. I caught up with Mr Wen at Lal Lal Estate earlier this year to chat about wool supply, US China trade tensions, and sheep farming in Australia. ‘US China trade tensions have created a lot of economic uncertainty for us, particularly in the domestic Chinese market. But, something positive will come from this too
Quignan Wen and his son Tony at Lal Lal Estate in Victoria
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Industry news for the development of China’s position in international trading’, he says. ‘China reforms started 40 years ago and we continue along that path. And although we are no longer viewed as a country of low labour costs and high polluting we must set our goals even higher - I believe this trade war will push us to achieve this faster. It will force us to do business in new ways, and be more innovative. For example, 30 years ago only 2% of China’s youth graduated from tertiary courses, now it is 30%, and we need to teach these young educated people how to lead, not to follow this trade dispute is a positive wake up call for the younger generation’, he says. Mr Wen believes that the textile industry has hit the bottom and he can only see growth in the future. ‘Wool is more comfortable than cotton, and more versatile, and the potential for growth in China alone is enormous. There is 400-500 million middle class in China and this is growing fast. They spend 20% of their income on necessities and 80% to improve their standard of living - and clothing is a big part of this. Therefore the future is looking good’. When it comes to supply, it is quite simple, he comments - ‘there are 70 million sheep in Australia - 1 sheep produces wool for 2 garments, therefore 140 million garments are produced from the Australian flock each year. If 1 out of 10 consumers in China buy a wool garment the entire supply is gone. So it is imperative to continue promotion of wool as a fibre of choice to consumers - and if we do this right then wool has a great future. That is why I invest with confidence in Australia’s sheep farming’, he reasons.
introducing sheep best suited to the climate and pastures, and refining breeding practices. Previously lambing loses could be as high as 100 at lambing season. Lal Lal Estate now has more people on the ground to bottle feed and care for vulnerable lambs and to shelter them from the elements, in the first 3 days, to maximising survival rates. ‘We will see if our farm management practices pay off. While some farmers are introducing larger sheep that produce 9kg from each shear - our sheep produce only 3-4 kg but we believe this is right for us. On our farm the best breeds produce 17-18 micron wool, a finer micron better suited to our manufacturing requirements’. ‘We invested $10 million into Lal Lal Estate to improve the pastures, sheep genetics and wool productivity. We plan to show that with the best farming techniques wool growing in Australia can still be profitable and provide the quality to suit wool users like Tianyu Wool and we aim to use this model at our Mokanger and Lowana farms’. ‘Tianyu is a modern company with a strong sense of social responsibility’, says Mr Wen. ‘We want to promote Tianyu as one of the largest fine merino top makers, involved in wool to fiber from farm to fashion. We are working with many supply chain programs and brands. We see ourselves as a leader in environmental, sustainable, traceable practices producing the best quality fiber’, he concludes.
He continues that ‘in my experience, as the biggest top maker in the world, and having experienced my share of fluctuations in wool prices, we need to create a more reliable wool supply to minimise risk to the entire wool supply chain. Mr Wen is passionate about helping to improve farming practices by investing in grasslands, wool2yarnglobal 2019
Do you know what blend is in your top?
he high cost of Merino wool inevitably leads to processors blending different wool types and microns to keep their costs competitive. Blending wool with other fibres is not new, but topmakers blending different wool types and microns to keep their processing costs competitive will affect the end product. Fabric made from 100% 19.5m merino wool will feel totally different than if the this same micron had been achieved with finer and coarser wools blended to achieve the same end 19.5 micron. The result - poorer quality fabric, consumer disappointment, and the erosion of hard won consumer confidence in wool fibre, as well as the obvious commercial implications that can flow. ‘When coarser micron wools are blended with finer micron wool to achieve a more acceptable average micron the impact will not be tested, or felt until the fabric, or finished garment stage, or at retail’, says Mark Brims the inventor of OFDA technology and CEO of BSC Electronics that manufactures these instruments in Australia. OFDA (Optical-based Fibre Diameter Analyser) can measure blends of different micron fibres accurately, and a higher standard deviation of diameter may indicate blending of wool from different sources. The OFDA 2000 and 4000 models are recognized by IWTO Test Methods to provide reliable and accurate reading of tops and blends in tops and yarn and are the only testing family that can accurately measure diameter from greasy wool to fabric. OFDA stand at ITMA Barcelona - left to right OFDA agents Livio Zuccolini and Herbert Hornik, and Mark Brims
The OFDA 4000 is the only instrument that measures Hauteur, length, short fibre content, diameter and fibre curvature in a single operation without operator involvement. It is suitable for wool, animal and most synthetic fibres. Textile mills can judge the result of blending wool tops with confidence and rely on instant feedback on fibre characteristics and processing performance and systematically introduce remedial action instead of proceeding by trial and error. ‘This is an advantage to the entire wool to garment production chain. Now users can analyze not only the raw material, but also the entire production chain with unprecedented information’, says Mark Brims. ‘In an ideal situation no correlation is expected between the length of a fibre and its mean fibre diameter. However, in practice tops can have a diameter profile where there is a relationship between the mean diameter of a fibre and its length. This can arise in wool tops if wools of different length and strength characteristics are blended for topmaking; or fibres are selectively broken in topmaking, e.g. finer fibres break more readily than coarser fibres so that the longest fibres in the top are the coarsest; and in blending wool from different sources, e.g. short fine wool blended with coarser, longer wool.’ OFDA 4000 machines have been used for over 15 years and provide proven reliability and accuracy. BSC Electronics has been designing and manufacturing this fibre testing equipment for almost three decades and is a world leader with a unique range of fibre measurement instruments. More than 400 OFDA units are used in more than 30 countries around the world. More information can be obtained at www.ofda.com and Mark Brims can be contacted by email at firstname.lastname@example.org for any inquiries on all OFDA products.
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WOOL FIBRE CHARACTERISTICS IN ONE MEASUREMENT
OFDA 2000 and 4000
Rapid Automatic Measurement of Diameter, Length and Curvature of Wool, Alpaca, Cashmere, Synthetic, Glass and Other Fibres OFDA 4000
OFDA 2000 digital
• the major wool fibre characteristics in one measurement, with greatly reduced operator involvement • length and short fibre content by length is measured automatically, as well as hauteur (cross section biased length) • diameter vs. length is provided • international recognition by test method IWTO-62 • cost, size and weight of the system is lower than the 3 instruments (Fibroliner, Almeter, OFDA100 or Laserscan) that it replaces • software is included to allow viewing, blending and exporting results to spreadsheet: no need to buy extra software to combine results from different instruments • ability to measure fibre diameter from samples in web form using snippet mode, compatible with OFDA100/OFDA2000
• more than twice as fast as the OFDA2000 analog version • five times faster than OFDA100 (fibres per minute) • allows replacement of the PC without need for recalibration • remote operation via the Internet for servicing • runs on standard Windows PC to allow easy networking, printing and export of data to spreadsheet formats • international recognition by IWTO Test Method 47
Contact your agent or visit www.ofda.com BSC Electronics Pty Ltd 13 Willcock Street Ardross, Western Australia 6153 Phone + 61 8 9316 9499 • email@example.com
Q &A with Rita Haselwander, Garlita
Punching above its weight by Victor Chesky
A family affair from left to right: sisters Rasa Staneviĉienė and Rita Haselvander and father Juozas Martikaitis
urrently the textile industry in Lithuania accounts for about 1.6% of the country’s GDP and employs over 20,000 workers, not a small number for a country of just under 3 million. Lithuanian textile manufacturers provide quick production and delivery time and the ability to produce small batches. It is experienced in working with companies in both Western and Eastern Europe. These advantages have contributed to Lithuania’s position as a preferred manufacturing hub for popular chains such as Next, Laura Ashley, Hugo Boss, H&M, Mark & Spencer, Nike, and Decathlon, as well as supplying uniforms and workwear for NATO, and government departments. The textile industry in Lithuania has deep historical roots. Prior to 1991 and the collapse of the Soviet Union, Eastern Europe was Lithuania’s main export market. Since that time, the textile and clothing industries, like other sectors of the Lithuanian economy, have been gradually reviving manufacturing and export capacity. Low labour cost comparable to Asia, market proximity to Europe, and a long established tradition of producing textiles and clothing, enabled manufacturers to operate competitively. Exports were given a further boost in 1998 when the EU removed all tariffs
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and quotas on imports of textiles and clothing from Lithuania. Today Lithuania is part of the European Union and is punching above its weight in textile production. One company, in the small town of Garliava, has been cementing its position as a leading knitwear manufacturer. Garlita has been a family owned and run business for more than forty years. The father and daughters team are involved in every aspect of the business. Garlita exports its knitwear products throughout the EU, as well as to Israel, USA, and Japan.
Q. I asked second generation family member Rita Haselwander why Garlita has succeeded where so many other companies have failed?
A. Yes, it is true that most the textile business failed here in Lithuania. But we have succeeded and it is not as a result of a miracle but of our long term vision and strategy. Our company started as a traditional knitter many years ago so we have experience in knitting high quality knitwear. Sustainability and Innovation combined with quality and service are key to our production success. In recent years we installed 60 new Stoll knitting machines and sewing machines and our workers are highly skilled. We welcome ideas from our clients and provide them with the
Acupuncture massage sweater 100% Merino wool (non-mulesed) and treated with vitamin E. Yarn Bluedesign certified EXP chlorine free, RWS certified. 100% machine washable
advice they may need. Our goal is in long term, sustainable relationships. If you are seriously thinking about success, you will build your products with your customers and both will be successful! This is our strategy!
Progress (60% extra fine merino chlorine free EXP) NM 50/2Mineral Grey 15598 plated with black spandex Jumpsuit Super fine merino (16.5) EXP NM 52/2 bright red 15416 plated with elastan
Q. How important is wool fibre to your
cheapest raw material. Its still a learning process but we can see a big change.
production and how do consumers view garments made from wool?
Q. What are the main production lines of the company and why are
A. Wool is very important because it is a
sustainable fiber which suits our vision and our customers too. All the wonderful properties of wool such as clima regulation fit the product needs and outcomes of our customers perfectly. Function and fashion in sustainable garments â€“ what else do you need! More and more customers ask for sustainable products. They are discovering that wool provides for this all even if wool is not the
A. Our production is mainly focused on woman-wear, men-wear and knitwear for children. We are well known for the production of school uniforms, and army and police uniforms. Our success is based in our long term experience and partnership with clients. Our customers appreciate the new ideas we have for style and function. We call this adding value.
Q. Innovation in performance textiles has been embraced by many manufacturers, particularly in next-to-skin garments and sportswear can you comment on Garlita developments in this area? wool2yarnglobal 2019
Industry news A. This is one of our secrets. We have developed very functional and innovative next to skin garments. One very special development is our Acupressure sweater with Vitamin E. Acupressure is a more than 3000 years old, but we have developed this in combination with a sweater. Our massage sweater combines traditional principles and smart technology, using our modern and innovative flat knitting techniques. Many people may be concerned about puncturing their skin and wary of things like acupressure. By wearing acupressure massage sweater the skin is merely stimulated and the body receives all the benefits that are equal to actual acupressure. Besides the intensity of
stimulation it can be easily adjusted with the tightness of the sweater on your body and placement of the plastic pressure pads. These pressure pads can be easily removed when necessary and placed to other areas for stimulation of other problematic areas of the body. This advantage allows you to wear this acupressure massage sweater all day long and to make it serve exactly according to your body needs. It’s a wearable feel good massage sweater. There are more than 1000 pressure points leaving the body feeling deeply relaxed. The sweater is wearable in many different situations including long distance driving, walking, and sitting, as well as during active sports such as hiking or jogging. ‘Service is our success, connecting people is our secret. We are thinking and acting not just as a simple knitting company. We are trying to connect all members of the textile chain to create new, innovative products. We Knit your story!’, concludes Rita Haselvander. Rita Haselvander can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
New SGS online portal offers quick access to certification Guillaume Pahud
GS has launched a new online portal, SGS online services, offering quick, easy access to its testing, inspection and certification services. Guillaume Pahud, SGS Customer Portal Program Director, said: “This new portal will help customers respond to an increasingly regulated world in a simple and quick way.” The platform offers a dedicated range of services to help companies reduce risk, streamline processes and operate in a more sustainable manner. The platform is also open to individuals who can benefit from SGS expertise. There are two tools which will be applicable to the wool testing business’, says Jeremy Wear Agriculture, Food and Life Business Manager,
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Wool Testing Services SGS. ‘The first is purely online sales where the client can book testing, pay by credit card, download all the necessary instructions, and send samples for guidance reports.The other is an online/offline service for certificates where the client can select the products they want then request a quote via us in New Zealand. Independent sampling will be arranged from the local SGS affiliate closest to them. Much of this can be done online and the client can monitor progress through their own account’, he says. Jeremy Wear further comments that ‘these SGS-Online portals will revolutionise our international testing business and this service should be operational in November’. The portal will be available at the SGS Shop https://onlineservices.sgs.com/nz
The Woolmark logo is the world’s best-known textile quality fibre brand, representing a long-term commitment between woolgrowers, mills, brands and consumers. The Woolmark licensing program is a textile quality assurance and product certification scheme that guarantees fibre content and quality to both consumers and the supply chain.
Benefits of Woolmark licensing:
Trusted by consumers for more than 50 years, the Woolmark brand has adorned more than 5 billion products since the creation of the original mark in 1964.
Independent certification of fibre content and quality assurance.
Access to the world’s best known textile fibre brand, the Woolmark logo.
Access to expertise in marketing, wool supply chain, sourcing, technical, product development and quality testing.
Access to supply chain networks from farm to fashion label.
Access to, and opportunities for inclusion in, The Wool Lab.
Become a Woolmark licensee today: www.woolmark.com/certification
The Woolmark and The Woolmark Blend symbol are Certification marks in many countries. The Wool Blend symbol is a registered trademark in many countries. © 2019 The Woolmark Company Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. GD3489
The lion and the sheep by Giovanni Schneider
s a father of two little girls, I think a lot about their future. The world’s population reached 7.7 billion in April 2019 and is expected to reach 10 billion shortly after 2030. On the other hand, the world economy is still growing faster than its population and this means that by 2030, not only will we be many more, but each of us will probably consume even more than what we are already doing today. You don’t need to be a genius to understand that this system is unsustainable. As the growth of population can’t be reversed there’s just one way out of this mess we’ve created: to consume less and to consume better, reducing wastes, shifting to a circular economy and to preserve natural resources. The other day we were watching “The Lion King” together and was struck by a verse in the song “Circle of Life” which goes: “Some say eat or be eaten, some say live and let live, but all are agreed as they join the stampede, you should
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never take more than you give…”. These lyrics hit a nerve! I am very much aware that my friends and colleagues in the trade as well as my many very fierce competitors might smile at my naiveté but here are the facts I believe are important to share: Last year the world produced over 105 billion kilos of textile fibres, 67% of which are synthetic and therefore non biodegradable and hard to recycle, and wool today represents less that 1% of the world consumption. Today’s consumers keep shopping at fast fashion retail stores which sell nicely produced garments at affordable prices, using affordable materials and affordable workforce. But something is slowly changing; some younger consumers are no longer interested in compulsive shopping, they want to buy sustainable products. They are the ones who will have to face the consequences of global warming, desertification and other natural disasters. As a consequence, a recent market research estimated that by 2030 the market for second hand clothes will
Viewpoint surpass the market of fast fashion products. So, to send out a positive message to the wool community, I’d like to say that in this new environment wool can easily reclaim its role as the queen of textile fibres. Wool is renewable, wool is biodegradable, wool can be recycled an infinite number of times and it is stain resistant and cleans itself best in fresh air, which means it needs to be washed far less often than most fibres, saving billions of litres of water and detergents. But if we want to win this battle, we can’t simply rely on the inner characteristics of our beloved wool, we must shift our business model ourselves. The battle of sustainability can’t be won simply because we represent a natural fibre with amazing properties: we must improve every aspect of the supply chain as well. Wool growers must concentrate their efforts
on animal welfare and regenerative agriculture. Top makers, spinners and weaver should focus on the transparency and the environmental impact of their industrial processes. Policymakers should facilitate the creation of a circular economy by removing bans on the trade and the processing of used garments. Retailers must understand that their clients deserve more than just a pretty dress. Finally, to win the war against the large chemical companies producing synthetic fibres and huge fast fashion retailers we must act as a whole, setting aside dissension between wool producing countries as well as between European and Asian manufacturers. Alexander the Great said: “I am not afraid of an army of lions led by a sheep, I am afraid of an army of sheep led by a lion”. So let’s all become the lions leading our precious flocks of sheep towards a more sustainable future.
Schoeller - always one step ahead
….the sustainable chlorine-free wool treatment
Total Easy Care
An Indorama Ventures Company
New head at WTAE Wool Testing Authority Europe recently came under new management with Courtney Pye taking over from Tim Parkes as Managing Director in July 2018. Courtney started with WTAE is June of 2016 as Technical Manager and in early 2018 she was offered the opportunity to expand her involvement in the business by becoming Managing Director.
ourtney grew up in the Lake District Cumbria, located in the North of the England. Throughout her childhood she was surrounded by the local farming industry and spent her summers on her Grandfather’s farm in the heart of the Lake District. She comments; ‘I have fond memories of the shearers on the farm showing me what they were doing, though I was never allowed to have a go myself. I appreciate now how highly skilled shearing is hence their reluctance to pass me the shears. I remember my grandfather wrapping me in a freshly shorn fleece and the warmth is still vivid in my mind. These memories have never left me, and I have always had an affection for the fibre. Wool is the ultimate natural and sustainable fibre, and in light of the current environmental issues surrounding the use of plastic, wool has a promising future.’ Regarding Wool Testing Authority Europe, she then goes on to comment; ‘a test result is only as good as the test method used to produce it, which is the reason why we are very proud of the accreditation we hold to the international standard ISO 17025:2017 and our status as an IWTO accredited laboratory. We only use IWTO approved test methods and have been issuing certificates to the wool industry in the UK and Europe since 2004. Our accreditation is assessed annually by the United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS) from which we receive outstanding reports. We are also members of the ILRT group which consists of other test houses located in the Southern Hemisphere; namely Australian Wool Testing Authority, New Zealand Wool Testing Authority and Wool Testing Bureau South Africa.
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Participation in these trials ensures that test results issued worldwide are harmonised and gives our clientele further assurance of WTAE being Europe’s leading wool test house. WTAE can offer an impartial sampling service throughout Europe. Being in control of the entire testing process, from sampling through to the issue of a test certificate means WTAE can offer a completely impartial service which is fundamental to the core of the business. Wool buyers and sellers can be fully confident that this impartial service, coupled with WTAE’s technical ability and excellent round trial performance gives certified results that can be relied upon time and time again. Predicting buying trends can be difficult, so making the correct commercial choices is very important. Testing with WTAE, and obtaining IWTO Certified wool shipments, buyers can be confident that the tested parameters provide an accurate reflection of processing performance’, she comments. WTAE offers an Online Certificate Verification service which provides confirmation to wool users that the details on the IWTO Test Certificate or Test Report in their possession are correct. By entering the Test Number, Verification Code and email address in the appropriate boxes the wool user will receive a PDF copy of the Certificate in return. This will enable a rapid comparison and verification that the documents you hold, and the results in the WTAE database, are the same. For additional information on WTAE’s service, please visit; www.wtaeurope.com.
Wool test sampling in Eastern Europe
oolSamplingHungary offers wool sampling services from its Middle Eastern Europe base in Hungary. A company representative will take core samples from wool shipments for laboratory testing. ‘We carry out our activities in Central and Eastern Europe including Hungary; Slovakia, Romania, Serbia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, and Austria’, says János TopcsiovTamasi.
undertaken in accordance with the strict rules of the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO).
Core samples are taken from bales of greasy wool for testing by Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd (WTAE) in Wales UK. All sampling and testing are
WoolSamplingHungary provide product information to the testing laboratory which then issues a wool testing certificate. This information is then used by purchasers worldwide. ‘The wool seller will always get a better price for the wool when it is tested, and of course the purchaser will have assurance about the quality they have bought’.
Tests can be requested for Yield including Vegetable Matter (VM); Fiber Diameter; and Color, and on analysis of average fibre length and tensile strength. ‘Sampling is based on the date agreed, in line with strict IWTO rules’, says János Topcsiov-Tamasi. ‘We take samples from every bale in the shipment with a special coring tool. At the time of sampling, all bales are weighed to ensure the yield is calculated correctly and a packing list is produced. When all testing is complete the WTAE laboratory sends the customer a secure, original copy of the IWTO Test Certificate, by email, that can be printed instantly if needed’.
János Topcsiov-Tamasi can be contacted at +36303164689 or email@example.com. More information on tests can be found at www.wtaeurope.com
We offer impartial wool testing & guaranteed certification for a range of IWTO test methods. Accredited to ISO 17025:2017 by UKAS IWTO licensed wool testing laboratory Member of the ILRT group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs WTAE Ltd, Cibyn Industrial Estate, Caernarfon, UK, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0)1286 678 097 • Fax: +44 (0)1286 678 039 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org • Web: www.wtaeurope.com
Drought continues to impact Australian wool production the mean fibre diameter of the national clip is 0.5 microns finer than at the same time last season. There have also been considerable reductions in staple length, staple strength and vegetable matter. The Committee noted that the AWTA test data to March 2019 showed a significant increase in the weight of wool tested of 17.5 microns and finer, as well as a decline in the volume of 18.6 to 24.5 microns wool and 26.6 and broader.’
he impact of the drought in Australia continues to be felt. The wool clip is down to its lowest level in almost 100 years. Sheep numbers are down, wool stock is down, and dust has impacted the colour and quality of the wool. Although some rain did arrive into affected areas it is not enough for many Australian wool growers to restock. The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee (AWPFC) first forecast of shorn wool production for the 2019/20 season is 285 mkg greasy, a 4.5% decline on the 2018/19 forecast. This forecast assumes a return of normal seasonal conditions. The Committee acknowledges that the impact of the drought will continue into the new season due, in part, to reported low scanning and lambing percentages in 2018/19. AWPFC Committee Chairman, Russell Pattinson said that ‘ongoing drought conditions across large parts of Australia have further decreased Australian wool production. Adult sheep numbers have declined during the 2018/19 season. To the end of January 2019, there has been a 25% increase in the adult sheep slaughter compared with the same period a year earlier. We are looking at a 7% reduction of sheep shorn and a 4.5% reduction on the average cut per head. ‘Along with a reduction in greasy wool production there have also been significant changes in key test parameters, a further reflection of ongoing dry conditions’, Russell Pattinson continued. ‘Average yield, which currently stands at 63.8% is at its lowest level in 8 seasons while 50 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
David Ritchie Executive Committee member of Australian Council of Wool Exporters & Processors Inc and general manager of Victoria Wool Processors (VWP) in Melbourne says ‘wool buyers need to take into consideration that the quantity of wool finer than 19.5 microns has actually increased, but wool of 19.6 - 21.5 micron is down 32.5%, and wool of 21.6 - 24.5 micron is down 31%. If you need wool in these micron ranges you must take this into consideration when placing orders. And it will take a number of years for wool in these micron ranges to recover’. David Ritchie further comments that ‘spinners and weavers using Australian wool should consider whether it makes better financial sense for them to import wool carbonised in Australia rather than importing greasy wool and scouring elsewhere. We believe it does ‘, he said. ‘The dust content in the wool from drought affected regions is considerable. Processing wool in Australia will ensure that your wool will be delivered clean and ready to use, and it will be 100% Australian wool. You will also receive it faster. As processing costs in Asia continue to climb, and with the lower value of the Australian dollar it does make more financial sense to process wool here in Australia’.
FIBRE MIXING? AS EASY AS CHILDâ€™S PLAY TECNOMECCANICA BIELLESE DESIGN AND PRODUCES COMPLETE PLANTS FOR FIBERS PREPARATION SINCE 1968 FIBER BLENDING SYSTEM AND PNEUMATIC CONVEYING PLANTS BALE BREAKER CARDING WILLOW AND OPENERS AUTOMATIC BLENDING BINS WITH ITS BIN EMPTIERS OILING PLANTS AUTOMATIC CARD FEEDING SYSTEM CENTRALIZED FILTERING STATION
Buying & selling wool made easy online world’, says Victor Chesky CEO International Trade Publications (ITP). Simply log-in and see what you can buy, or login and list your wool for sale. Chinese version is available - www.woolbuy.net
This website is FREE to buyers and sellers Buy and sell wool worldwide 24 hours a day, seven days a week!
uying and selling wool is being made easier with online platform - www.woolbuy.net This 24 hour interactive website is simple to use and free to all.
www.woolbuy.net now has over 3700 registered users and features over 375 listings of wool, tops, and yarn from all over the
‘This website facilitates direct links between buyers and sellers. We are not a party to any financial transactions between buyers and sellers’, says Victor Chesky. ‘When you make an enquiry or buy wool you communicate directly with the seller, there are no other parties involved’. ITP is an independent publishing house. ‘We do not buy or sell wool, so users of this site can be assured that there is no conflict of interest. ITP also publishes a monthly online newsletter - www.woolnews.net and international trade magazines including wool2yarn china.com and wool2yarnglobal.com View us at www.woolbuy.net
An independent environmental laboratory and consultancy resource for the wool textile and carpet industry across the world
HEALTH & SAFETY
Enco Global Testing Services Ltd. Cashmere Works, Birksland Street, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD3 9SX UK Tel: +44 (0)1274 846600 • Email: email@example.com
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EASTERN EUROPE S
heep populations and wool production diminished dramatically throughout Eastern Europe with the end of the Soviet Union, and reached its lowest level some ten years later. Today most East European countries that were part of the Soviet block are now independent, and part of NATO and the European Union. The wool and textile industries in these regions were neglected for many years but recently some governments are recognising the contribution that a good textile industry can make to employment and exports. Although Western European brands have used Eastern Europe as a cheaper labour manufacturing hub governments in Russia, Belarus and Bulgaria further reviving their wool production and investing in upgrading their textile manufacturing industry is underway. The following report provides a snapshot into what Eastern Europe has to offer. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Russia Between 1995 â€“ 2015 the textile industry in Russia was mostly focused on importing scoured wool and tops. Scouring in Russia was more difficult and more costly. During this period domestic fine wool growers were only able to sell their fine wool below market prices to buyers in India and China. Today the economic situation has changed. The devaluation of the Russian ruble has seen the price for imported wool and top increase dramatically. Russian textile manufacturers can no longer afford to buy wool from abroad. In response to this, the Russian Government has decided to support Russian textile manufacturers and invest 150 million RUB (2,4 million USD), stimulating the production of fine and semi fine wool, expecting to supply more than 15,5 thousand tonnes of locally grown wool to Russian wool manufacturers in the near future. Support from the Russian Ministry of Agriculture has led to the AWTA installation of testing equipment for fibre fineness, length, tenacity, wool yield, vegetable matter, grease, dark fibres and more in November 2018. The laboratory can test wool according to Russian GOST (Government Standard Russia) standards and international testing standards and is equipped with Laserscan, OFDA and Fiber-Lux (express analysis) for the definition of the fibre fineness (and average micron, fibre distribution, coefficient of variation, standard error of deviation, coefficient of comfort, fibre crimp). The laboratory is ready to test wool from Russian farms and enable its classification on the Russian and international markets. 54 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
In 2017 Russia produced a total of 57,000 t of wool. 20,000 t was fine and semi fine wool that was consumed by local manufacturing companies. The Siberian News Agency reported that the price of 1kg Russian Merino wool of the finest quality was 207 RUB (approx. 3,3 USD). Stavropol is a main wool growing region and one of the leading producers of Russian wool (13%). It has a flock of around 2 million head and plans to double this by 2025. The majority of sheep grown in this region are Stavropol Merino with an average weight of 66.9kg, average wool length 11.8cm, and average 19.9 micron. Zabaykalye in Siberia is another main wool production region in Russian, producing around 1,450 tonnes last year. Much of this production is exported to China (540 tonnes in 2018). According to the National Association of Sheep Breeders there is almost 25 million head in Russia last year. The best Merino wool is produced by wool enterprises or cooperatives, but these only represent 20% of the total
Knitwear production at Kvest-A
flock and their number is diminishing every year. Most wool in Russia comes from small companies and family farms, although their focus is on meat rather than wool. Sorting wool is a problem and contamination a major issue. Companies from India and China tend to buy Russian wool early in the season, in the first 2-3 months after shearing, often before local manufacturers place their orders. According to the Federal Customs Service of Russia, the imports of wool, animal fibres, wool yarns and wool fabrics amounted to 24,1 million USD in 2018, down from 35,2 million USD in 2017.
per year and uses around 4600 tonnes of greasy wool. It employs some 400 people. It manufactures wool, semi-woollen and acrylic yarn from 7-50Nm. Troitsk Worsted Factory in Moscow is another large manufacturing company that produces woollen and blended yarns for hand and machine knitting and woollen quilts. It uses around 3200 tonnes of wool per year, and most of this wool is sourced domestically. It also uses camel hair, goat-down, alpaca, and mohair. The Troitsk factory operates reasonably new textile machinery from Germany, Italy, France, and Japan. Its yarn has gained a reputation in Russia for its rich colour palette, varied texture, and is a supplier of combed sliver tops. In addition to its more than 500 Russian customers it also exports to Serbia, UK, USA, and Canada.
The Federal Customs Service of Russia reported that in 2018 27% of imported wool was used in the production of woollen fabric, 15% for worsted fabric and over 54% for woollen yarn.
Pekhorsky Textiles, also based in the Moscow region. It manufactures hand-knitted yarn and machine-knitted yarn it is best known for innovative and best quality hand-knitted yarn. They have a reputation within Russia for creative ideas, aggressive marketing, and good quality. It uses 1,000 t of greasy wool per year, of which 500 t is fine Merino.
Kvest-A is one of the largest yarn manufacturers in Russia (spinning and knitting) and is located in the South-Western Republic of Karachayevo-Cherkessiya. This is a vertically integrated company from scouring with a production capacity of 3000 t of yarn
Other large factories using wool in Russia include Gorizont Moscow (2,400 t greasy wool per year), Kukmorsky in Kukmor (1,300 t greasy wool per year). There are eight smaller factories scattered around Russia that consume between 200- 500 t per year. Source: infoaid Partners, GermanyÂ wool2yarnglobal 2019
Kamvol investment of over â‚Ź50 million in new textile machinery
Belarus Textile manufacturing is an important traditional activity in Belarus. Despite competition from China, India, and other countries in Central Asia, textile production in Belarus is big and among the largest in Eastern Europe. As a former engineering powerhouse of the Soviet Union it is known for its long-standing industrial traditions, skilled labor and favourable labor costs. During the period up to 2014, the textiles and clothing industry did not fare well. The total turnover of textiles, apparel, fur and leather industry was nearly halved from 7.0 billion roubles in 2010 to 3.7 billion roubles in 2017. Employment in the textiles and clothing sector declined from 104,200 workers in 2010 to 75,500 workers in 2015. But President Aleksandr Lukashenko is taking a personal interest in reviving the textile industry in Belarus. In addition to this the favourable geographical position, well-developed infrastructure, and social stability 56 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
make Belarus an attractive place for investors and buyers from around the globe to cast their attention. To enhance these advantages and capitalise on demand for cheap manufacturing Belarus textile mills have been modernising and increasing production capacity. All textile producers in Belarus are state owned, and operate under the umbrella Bellegprom. In this State Group there are 17 textile, 12 knitting and 21 garment active companies but some are too small to be sustainable long term. Kamvol is the first company to receive government funding to upgrade (see separate article on Kamvol in following pages). Kamvol is the largest textile manufacturing company in Belarus, recently receiving an investment of E51 million in state-of-the-art textile machinery including the latest combs from nsc Schlumberger, spinning machines from Saurer, and fabric machinery from Zonco. An additional 50 mil Euros was spent in upgrading its buildings. Another textile company in Minsk is
Sukno. Sukno is currently expecting government funds to upgrade its machinery. It is expected that Sukno will move its operation to Kamvol building soon (see separate article on Sukno in following pages). Another name that may be familiar to our readers is Slonim Worsted and Spinning Factory. It manufactures tops and machine knitted yarn. It uses 60 t of scoured wool per annum and runs 50,000 spindles. Other companies in Belarus that use wool in their production include Polesie yarn and knitwear manufacturer using 1,000 t of greasy wool per yarn, BELFA (previously trading as Artificial Fur Factory) in Zhlobin, and Brest Carpets. A fabric manufacturer working from preparation, knitting, and finishing, mostly supplies customers in Russia. According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs the major trading partner of Belarus is the Russian Federation, taking 45.1Â % of all textiles produced in Belarus. The European Union is its second largest trading partner
Eastern Europe accounted for 26.7 % of exports, including Great Britain, Germany, Poland, the Netherlands, Lithuania, Latvia, Belgium, Italy, Czech Republic, and Romania. Turkey is also a big customer for Belarus textiles. More private textile enterprises are emerging in Belarus, some of them are joint-ventures with foreign capital from European and Asian countries and member states of the CIS.
Ukraine Prior to the collapse of the Soviet Union most finishing factories were based in Ukraine. Today there is little left of this segment of the industry. However there are some companies that have survived. One such company is Chernigov Wool Plus. Its primary activity is wool processing with a capacity to process 10,000 t and runs three scouring lines. The company was founded in 1939 and is one of the largest producers of scoured wool in Eastern Europe. It sells over 2000 t clean per year. It also produces 20 t of woollen yarn per month. It exports its yarn to manufacturers of worsted and woollen fabric, knitted fabric, carpets and blankets in Russia, Asia, and through Eastern and Western Europe. Kharkiv Wool, near Kiev, is part of Vladi Group of companies. These companies mostly specialise in the manufacture of plaids, blankets, and bedspreads. Most wool used is New Zealand wool and Alpaca. By 2011 the company completed its machinery upgrades with Italian, German, and Swiss machines. This resulted in an increase in production by 60%, and improved the production quality. Today it produces 50 t of woollen yarn from Nm 3 to Nm 12. It mostly supplies to the domestic market and markets in China, Russia, and Belarus.
Kharkiv Wool factory uses 2000 t of clean fibre per year
Czech Republic The wool industry was very important in the Czech Republic, before 1990, with 5 scouring plants and about 40 processing plants. Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic was prominent in the production of quality woollen fabrics, competing with British companies and earning the name of ‘Moravian Manchester’. It was the main wool centre of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, and until the 1930s the engine room to the economy. The Velvet Revolution of 1989 affected the Czech economy and a further decline in the textile industry already evident was further affected. The historic woollen mills gave way to small businesses, but could not survive price deregulation, liberalization of foreign trade and privatization. Today only one scouring plant and five processing plants remain. However the manufacturing sector of this industry is now growing. Skilled labour, lower taxes, a good geographical position and competitive
cost of energy, have encouraged international companies to invest and relocate production to this country. Interest by foreign investors are seeing manufacturing opportunities. Marzotto Group acquired Mosilana in 1994, one of the few companies to successfully privatize and retain its wool processing tradition. This company is now known as Nova Mosilana and investment has included new machinery and the reconstruction of purpose built factories. “The workers of this place, and I mean in Brno and the surrounding areas, have an innate passion for this work”, says Andrea Busolo general manager. “Some people leave our company after more than 40 years of work and this is a sign of attachment to the old tradition of textile manufacturers”. The Czech Republic is also home to Modiano, one of the biggest topmakers in the world and other internationally recognised yarn and fabric manufacturers including Vlnap, Miltex, and Schoeller. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Eastern Europe Estonia The clothing and textile industry is an important element of the Estonian economy. It employs around 13% of the workforce. Total exports of textiles in 2015 were 400 million Euros and accounted for 5% of Estonian exports, including clothing, home textiles and technical textiles. EU markets continue to be of significance. The main export destinations are Finland, Sweden, Russia, Germany, United Kingdom, Latvia, Norway, Lithuania and Denmark. Wool exports in dollars terms are $26,343,820, the export percentage is - 0.172% and Import $$27,821,081 Import % -0.161%. As a dual-purpose animal, the Estonian Ruhnu sheep is good for both meat and wool production. Their wool is of good quality. The Estonian Ruhnu sheep are strong and hardy animals. They are especially well adapted to their local climates.
operational processing factories in Georgia, with old, Soviet era machines According to The National Statistics Office of Georgia the country produced 2,000 tons of wool in 2016 (on average, 2.4 kg wool per sheep). From the total amount of sheared wool in 2016, more than 50% (1,062 tons) was exported as greasy wool to: Turkey (77%), Ukraine (10%), India (9%), the United Kingdom (2%), and Pakistan (2%). Prices ranged from $773/ton paid by UK buyers in 2016, followed by Ukraine ($694/ton), India ($641/ ton), Turkey ($463/ton) and Pakistan ($389/ton). On average, the exported wool price in 2016 was $507 per ton. Five wool export companies operated on the Georgian market in 2016, and two of them hold a market share of 78%. Georgia’s wool is also used domestically to make woollen garments, while some wool is either burnt or trashed.
Wool production has been an important source of income for Georgian sheep farmers. During the Soviet era, Georgia had more than 2 million sheep (around twice today’s sheep population), which used the winter pastures along the Caspian Sea. Wool processing and the textile industry were well-developed. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Georgia experienced a shortage of winter pastures, because it lost access to pastures along the Caspian Sea. The country also lost the traditional Soviet market for sheep products and like many other industries, wool manufacturing collapsed.
The Hungarian textile industry has exhibited a fairly rapid development in the last five years, achieving a production growth of 17% in 2017, according to a spokesperson from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade Deputy Secretary for Export Development. He further commented that as an export-oriented country, Hungary attributed great significance to foreign trade and is constantly seeking new opportunities to increase its exports through commercial export promotion agents, as well as business forums to match exporters with foreign buyers.
Today, the main source of income for sheep farms is the sale of lambs and sheep cheese, while income from wool is very low. There are only two
The textile industry in Hungary has an export ratio of approximate 75% , and a 21% growth in exports registered last year, reaching over 1.6 billion USD.
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As is the case with most industry sectors in Hungary, Germany is the main market for textile products, with a steady share of about 25%, followed by Romania at 12% and Italy at 9%. The non-EU market with the largest share is Ukraine at 3.3%. China is 29th among the markets for Hungarian textile products, with a 0.37% share. As a trading partner Hungary has a reliable workforce, sound infrastructure, is centrally located in the heart of Europe, and labour costs are still relatively low. Wool is grown by local farmers running merino flocks, usually small herds of between 600 – 1000 head. There are some larger farms that operate with some 6,000 head. Due to the harsh winters these sheep are kept in sheds for around three months each year, protecting the quality of the wool from weather damage, but not affect the colour which is off white. Wool companies in Hungary include Hungarowool, Ingtex, Gyoer Wool Combing, and Zolteck.
Serbia The textile processing and manufacturing industry is fragmented and is dominated by small and medium-sized enterprises. There are a total of about 400-500 registered textile related companies in Serbia, many of which are vertically organized and are capable of handling processes such as cutting, spinning, weaving, finishing, dyeing, embroidering, and printing. Though manufacturers are distributed across all parts of the country, there is a high concentration of specialized manufacturers in the Ada municipality in Northern Serbia, Arilje municipality in Central Serbia, and the world renowned Novi Pazar municipality in Southwest Serbia.
Eastern Europe Serbia is located in the Balkan Peninsula and is bordered by Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina to the west, Hungary to the north, Bulgaria to the east, Montenegro to the southwest, and Albania and Macedonia to the south. This strategic location provides the country with a significant advantage for trade, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. The country’s strategic location will be an important factor in influencing the inflow of FDI (foreign direct investment) into the country’s manufacturing sectors, including the textile manufacturing. Furthermore, its ideal location puts the country in close proximity to leading fashion capitals, such as Italy and France, which enables the manufacturers to keep abreast of changing market trends. According to Technavio’s market research analyst, the textile manufacturing market in Serbia will grow at a CAGR of more than 3% by 2020. There are less than 1.5 million sheeps in Serbia today. Wool production is 2445 tons per year. The average fleece weight is 3 kg and 80% of it is used. As in many Eastern European countries, sorting is a big issue. The wool is usually contaminated with dirt, hay, and other residual feeds, as well as polypropylene which is the most difficult to eradicate during scouring. Shearing is from May to June, 80% hand shearing and 20% by machine. Sorting is not done as the focus is often on leather rather than wool. Bales are small in size, 100-200 kg. Most sheep are on family farms and most are used for milk, the second is the meat especially the lamb meat. In terms of breed the most predomenet is indigenous Zackel
Uzbekistan wool farmer
sheep (80%), while the remaining 20% are Tsigai. Zackel sheep locally known as Pramenka have an average fleece weight of 2 kg, staple length of more than 15 cm and fiber fineness of 30 34 microns. Tsigai sheep average Fleece weight: ( ewes) 2,8 – 3,3 kg, rams 3,5-5,5 kg. Fleece weight: ( ewes) 2,8 – 3,3 kg, rams 3,5-5,5 kg. Staple length of the wool is 7- 10 cm and Fiber fineness : 30 to 35 microns. The part of Serbia that borders Hungary has merino wool but quantities are small.
Uzbekistan Uzbekistan is the 6th largest producer of cotton fibre in the world. It is also a large producer of other natural fibres and this includes both silk and wool. The textile industry is a major economic contributor to economic growth in Uzbekistan and in 2017 accounted for 17% of industrial output. The textile industry is expected to grow by 18% per year and exports to grow by 10%.
There are 15-16 million head of sheep in the country that produce 28,000 tons of greasy wool fibre annually. Shearing is done twice each year and most fibre is between 29-35 microns, and this is mostly black in colour. While there is no early processing industry in Uzbekistan the government has started to negotiate with European companies to open processing plants in the near future. The Uzbek Research Institute of Natural Fibers (UzRINF) is government organisation responsible for development of the natural fibre industry in Uzbekistan. Abdukhakim Akhunbabaev of UzRINF comments that ‘its objective is to process our natural fibres in the country by 2021 and export ready-made garments. Its aim is to reach US$ 2.8 billion in textile exports by 2021, of which 36% will be garment-knitwear products, 27% knitted fabric, 23% cotton yarn, 14% cotton fabric. Long term the aim is to reach US $7.0 billion export by 2025, of which 53% will be garmentknitwear products, 24% knitted fabric, 17% cotton fabric, 4% cotton yarn, and hosiery products 2%’. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Out of the shadows by Victor Chesky
extile manufacturing is an established traditional activity in Belarus. Belarus is a former manufacturing powerhouse of the former Soviet Union, and is known
for its industrial production and skilled labour. A favourable geographical position, between Russia and Western Europe, an improving infrastructure, and cost effective labour
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force make Belarus an attractive place for manufacturing. To enhance these advantages and better meet global market expectations the government in Belarus is providing financial assistance to upgrade its textile mills. All major textile producers in Belarus are state owned and operate under the umbrella of Bellegprom (Ministry of Light Industry). According to Bellegprom there are 17 textile
Belarus and 12 knitting companies in this State Group, but we understand that some are too small to be sustainable long term.
up the production chain to include women’s garments. Currently it exports both yarn and fabric and its biggest customer is the Russian Federation.
Leading textile companies in Belarus are Kamvol, Slonim and Sukno. Kamvol is the first state company in Belarus to receive government funding to upgrade its production. The next company in line for government funding is Sukno, manufacturing both 100% wool and wool blends. It aims to produce 1 million meters of fabric, using 500600 tons of wool per year, and is expected to be fully operational by 2023. Its export market is Russia and Central Asia, but like Kamvol it hopes to expand this as new textile machinery is installed.
‘2013 - 2016 was a period of intense investment for us. The installation of new textile machinery from leading international brands helped us to create a vertical, modern operation. We have attained growth in capacity, quality, and production time,’ a company spokesperson said.
Other smaller manufacturers use wool include Brest Carpets, and Areola (knitting), and other smaller companies mostly focused on linen and synthetics. According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs the major trading partner of Belarus is the Russian Federation, taking 45.1 % of all Belarus textiles. The European Union is its second largest trading partner accounted for 26.7 % of exports. Turkey is also a big customer for Belarus textiles. The textile industry in Belarus is trying to come out of the shadows of Russia and expand its reach into Western Europe. My visit to Kamvol - the largest textile manufacturing company in Belarus seemed timely. It has recently invested €51 million in state-of-the-art textile machinery including the latest combs from NSC Schlumberger, spinning machines from Saurer, and other machinery from major European companies.
The new machinery has enabled Kamvol to change production quickly to suit market needs, and therefore to extend its client base. ‘Previously we could only work with 21 - 24 micron fibre but with the installation of new machinery we can extend our range down to 17-19 micron, with plans to go finer in the future, down to 16 microns’. Kamvol produces mostly woven fabric and wool blend with lycra. ‘We do continues to produce 100% wool fabric but Merino wool prices are high and it is increasingly difficult to pass extra costs on to our customers’, comments a Kamvol spokesperson as
Kamvol €51 million investment in latest textile machinery from preparation to fabric
The company also spent an additional €55 million modernising its large building including a newly installed under floor Tecnomeccanica filtration system. Located in the outskirts of Minsk Kamvol has been manufacturing yarn and fabric since 1955. It employs 780 workers manufacturing quality pure wool and wool blend fabric for mens and women’s garments. It is fully vertical from scoured wool to yarn and fabric manufacture. Its future plans include manufacture further wool2yarnglobal 2019
Belarus he shows me through its facility. ‘Many of our customers that ordered 100% woollen fabric in the past now ask for blends, some as low as 50-50’. ‘Today we manufacture fabric for business suiting and dress fabrics, a range of uniforms, corporate clothing, and children’s wear. Uniforms are our biggest production line (45% wool, 55% polyester)’. The company is also a big manufacturer of fabric for the knitting sector. Kamvol’s modern dye factory provides samples including 300 fabrics and 2000 colour patterns.
Elvira Jvikova head designer at Kamvol with 100% 120s super fine woollen fabric
Kamvol’s main export markets include Russia, Ukraine, Latvia, Serbia, Turkey, and Azerbaijan - ‘we would very much like to extend our export reach into Europe’, the company spokesperson said. ‘Our long term objectives are to produce highquality, competitive fabrics and yarn, satisfying the requirements and exceeding the expectations of customers worldwide.’
JSC Sukno moving with the times
he second largest wool fabric manufacturing company in Belarus to receive government funding to upgrade its machinery is JSC Sukno, based in the capital city of Minsk. Sukno currently supplies to its domestic market and export to the Russian Federation, its main export market. It also exports to the European Union, Georgia, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, and Serbia.
The demand for fabric in the Russian Federation
Ilyin Artsiom deputy general director for commercial affairs at Sukno says ‘we expect that the upgrading of the plant and all machinery installations will be completed by 2023. We expect to be fully operational by then’. Sukno will move its production facility to the newly refurbished Kamvol premises, but will remain an independent operation.
woolen blends will form a diverse range of yarns for
Sukno production is expected to reach 100,000 metres of fabric for blankets and rugs, and 165,000 metres of fabric for jackets and dresses, and 545,000 metres for coats by 2023.
types of wool’, says Ilyin Artsiom. ‘This includes
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is estimated at 500,000 metres per year and is 310,000 metres in Belarus. ‘We plan to tap into these markets with our new range of fabric and increased production’, he says. Sukno’s long term production outlook will include the production of dress fabric from yarn of pure wool and synthetic blends. Woven fabrics from wool and fashionable single colours, melange, and multicolored fabrics, as well as fabric production for home textiles using wool and woollen blends. ‘When the new machinery is fully installed and operational by 2013 we expect to use the following Merino 64 (fineness 20.6 - 23.0 microns), mixture 56 58 (fineness 25.1 - 29.0 microns), coarser types at 29.1-32.0, and synthetic fibers, PA, PES and PAN.
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Creativity from Bulgaria by Victor Chesky
This was my first visit to Miroglio Lana in Sliven Bulgaria. The region in and around Sliven has been famous for Bulgarian Merino wool and textile mills operating since 1834. Wool production has mostly disappeared and so too have the many textile mills that operated during the communist era. One that did survive however, the former Slitex, was privatised and acquired by E. Miroglio EAD in 2006.
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oday it is one of the biggest yarn and fabric manufacturers in Europe and produces 7 million meters of fabric each year in Bulgaria and Italy, employs 2200 people, and supplies to major retail brands around the world. Mr Edoardo Miroglio owner and CEO explains how the company has evolved into an international player in the textile market.
that to be successful we must create new collections even more frequently than in the past. It is no longer possible to only offer two or even three collections each year’, says Edoardo Miroglio. ‘Such fast changing fashions require fast adaptation and a number of collections each year. We must also be creative in our yarn and fabric design and still provide quality.
‘Todays’ fashion trends change so quickly
‘We offer a wide range of choice for both
Bulgaria winter and summer wear and can develop specific fabrics for individual customers’, he continues. ‘We have made large investments in the latest textile machinery, as you see here in our state-of-the-art mill from top to fabric. We can adapt our production quickly to suit any changes in fashion trends. Large stock and very quick delivery are also important factors that attract our extensive customer base’. ‘But in the end it all comes down to people’, he remarks. ‘Gaetano Rimini, General Manager oversees all of our production with passion and experience and as you can see we are surrounded by good, experienced people people make the difference.’ The E. Miroglio EAD Yambol spinning and dyeing factory is housed in a 7500m2 plant and is one of the largest textile factories in Europe. It operates 16,660 spindles for its wool spinning system and produces an average count of 28 and spins 5 million kgs of yarn each year. Its cotton spinning produces some 3,5million kgs of yarn each year using 17,280 spindles, with an average count of 30. The company’s yarn division includes EM Filati, Raumer, and Svilosa Yarn in classic and fancy knitting yarns as well as woven yarns, worsted, woollen and cotton spun yarns. ‘Our fully-integrated carding, spinning and winding line is equipped with latest generation machinery designed to standardize dye and fiber mixes and give a very high standard of yarn uniformity and finesse. Our dye department can dye with flexibility and reliability from fibre, to yarn, to fabric. It uses an automatic Color Service guaranteeing maximum color recipe precision. Our main research is in colour. We achieve colour effects with blends of fibres of subtle and delicate tones, for our most soft and voluminous yarns, as well as the strong and bright tones of the most extreme patterns’, says Edoardo Miroglio. Miroglio Lana, the company’s fabric division, manufactures woollen and worsted fabrics and knit fabrics for men and ladies wear for the medium to high end markets and a corporate line for customers requiring uniforms. ‘We are in the heart of Europe, have reliable
From right to left: Antonio Di Dio, product director, Edoardo Miroglio, and Gaetano Rimini, CEO
Franco Miroglio views summer fabric collection
and affordable power to run the factories, as well as a favourable tax system. In the past low-cost labour was a further advantage but now this is a challenge as millions of Bulgarian citizens have left to live in other EU countries. But we continue to be successful - with large stocks and fast delivery, and production flexibility for individual customer needs.’ For further information about E.MIROGLIO EAD please contact email@example.com wool2yarnglobal 2019
Millen Bachvarov (right) and his son Koycho Bachvarov with scoured wool
Bulgarian processor goes international
by Victor Chesky
liven in Bulgaria has been associated with wool growing and manufacturing since the early 1800s when Bulgaria was still part of the Ottoman Empire. The region in and around Sliven has been famous for Bulgarian Merino wool, and although wool is no longer grown in large volumes the expertise in sorting and processing is still deep-rooted. Kolhida may not be a familiar name to many but this company has been collecting, sourcing and processing European wools since 1961. Today it is a privately owned enterprise exporting greasy, scoured, and wool top to customers in Europe, Middle East, and Asia. As with many long established companies it is experiencing a generational change. I met up with Millen Bachvarov and his son Koycho Bachvarov and asked them about the company and its future plans. ‘The company started trading and processing wool almost 60 years ago when Bulgaria was still under communist control’, says Koycho Bachvarov, who is a third generation family member to be involved in the company. ‘My grandmother Violeta Hristova Bachvarova and her partner Mr Georgiev are still active in the day-to-day operations of the company. We employ over 100 people and their experience and knowledge is fundamental to our business and its operation today.’ Kolhida has production facilities for washing, carding and combing, and processes wool into tops. Over the years the company has modernised
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its equipment and today it operates two scouring lines and Schlumberger machines for its tops. Over 70% of its wool production is exported. Kolhida works with mostly European wools from 20-36 microns. The bulk of the clip is 26 microns and coarser. The company has the capacity to sort and process 7500 tons of greasy wool per year.
Cost competitive supply of all European wools from carpet grade to fine Merino
Offering greasy scoured and tops More than 60 years experience in processing European wools
Sliven, Bulgaria • Tel. +359 44 619 200 • Fax +359 44 624 019 • firstname.lastname@example.org
Bulgaria for their production. We can supply greasy wool, scoured wool, and tops’, Mr Georgiev comments. Kolhida has the capacity to process 48 tons of greasy or around 24 tons of scoured per day and can process around 22-24 tons of tops per day. It exports wool in 300kg bales and its top bumps are 12kg. It operates a testing laboratory on its premises and offers “OECO-TEX STANDART 100” certification.
Kolhida has the capacity to process around 22-24 tons of tops per day
‘Our greasy wool comes from Bulgaria, Russia, the Caucuses, and other European countries. Some of these countries grow excellent Merino wool. Our knowledge in working with these wools, and our sourcing ability make us an attractive partner for spinners and weavers in Europe and around the world’, says Mr Georgiev. ‘One of the biggest advantages we have is sorting all wool in our own warehouse. Our people have a lifetime of experience doing just that, sorting by hand, into micron, colour, and length. Around 15% of it is very white, 45% is white, 20% is grey and 20% is dark, and we sort these dark wools into different types. This wool has a very good affinity for dyeing and spinning, particularly for carpet producer and for spinners that blend crossbred wool. ‘Any spinner and weaver that blend or work with European wools will benefit from our ability to source the most appropriate wool
‘And of course, Bulgaria is part of the European Union but still enjoys the cheapest labour and processing costs in Europe. A further advantage we can offer our customers is our location. Bulgaria is in the Balkans and is the closest European country to Asia. This location enables us to select the best wool from this region and export to our customers in Europe within days. For customers in China and South America we have access to two ports in close proximity, so logistics is also simple’, says Millen Bachvarov. ‘We are raising our international profile and establishing relationships with buyers around the world. Please contact us to find out what we can offer’, says Koycho Bachvarov. Koycho Bachvarov can be contacted at email@example.com
Finer wools are the focus
by Victor Chesky
he future lies with finer wools’, Eric Durand CEO of Lempriere Group commented during our time together at the company’s topmaking plant in Sliven Bulgaria earlier this year. ‘The cost of Merino wool today and particularly finer merino position it more toward a luxury fibre, and we believe that fashion brands will continue to use it in their luxury apparel as it cannot be easily replaced by synthetics or other fibres. Lempriere has always been known as a buyer and processor of finer wool and our recent investment in new NSC Schlumberger combs is a further commitment to finer wool processing.’ This is the main reason we embarked on the extensive upgrading of 68 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
our facility’, says Eric Durand, pointing to Lempriere Bulgaria’s 4 million Euro investment in new NSC Schlumberger GC40 and ERA40g as we walked around the factory. In the future we will concentrate on processing 19.5 microns and finer. ‘We see strong demand for Merino wool continuing, so our focus on processing finer wools is certainly proofing us into the future and ensuring our customers receive the quality tops they demand and in a timely way.’
Bulgaria Eric Durand further comments that the investment in new machinery is ensuring that quality and production speed can be delivered as per client specification. The company has also installed de-dusting equipment and a new filtration system to manage dust and waste disposal efficiently and to environmental standards. Lempriere Bulgaria has a production capacity of 6 million kgs of tops per year, 80% is for Lempriere Group and 20% is on commission. A stock service is also available. ‘For spinners and weavers in Europe that require traceability and certification we can source the right wool from our offices in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and South America and process to their specification here in Bulgaria, in the heart of Europe’, says Eric Durand. ‘In addition, European spinners increasingly prefer tops that are made in Europe. Our operation in Bulgaria is cost competitive and has a well educated labour force, and delivery times are prompt. ‘
Eric Durand with 17.5 micron tops ready for delivery
“We also acknowledge the importance of environmental accreditations and offer our customers GOTS, EU Flower, and RWS certification’, he says. ‘Wool production is down in Australia, South Africa, and Argentina but we have local offices in each of these primary wool growing countries and so we are quickly able to access the most appropriate wool for our clients. And, with fewer machines, but newer more efficient and cost-effective machines, we are producing more’.
New combs installed by nsc this year
He emphasises that being in Europe, so central to many fashion brands and textile manufacturers is an advantage. ‘We have come a long way since 2016 and have overcome some initial hurdles. The time and effort we have taken in improving our production process is now paying off and production quality and delivery times are now reaching our target’. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Fibre & Textile testing available online anywhere in the world
e all want our clothing to be comfortable and to perform well, and we want our children to be able to play safely on carpet. We also want to be sure that there are no harmful substances in our fibre, fabric and textiles. Consumers are paying more attention to the safety, quality, and origin of the textile products they buy. But how do we ensure that these textiles are safe? When trading wool we want certainty about the clean quantity of wool involved and the fibre quality. SGS is a world leader in providing testing certification right through the textile
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chain, from fibre to finished product, including raw fibre, fabric, and garments. Its network comprises over 2,600 offices and laboratories and more than 97,000 employees in almost every country around the world. Textile manufacturers around the world require reliable access to nearby textile laboratories. â€˜We have a strong presence in all countries, including those in Eastern Europe, with offices in Belarus, Bulgaria, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Russian Federation, and Uzbekistanâ€™, says Jeremy Wear, manager of SGS Wool Testing Services in New Zealand.
Eastern Europe ‘We can be easily contacted in many parts of Eastern Europe for all testing requirements and our local offices have local staff to assist. We provide the latest testing methods, and expert scientists and technicians, with expertise from our laboratories around the world. SGS is the leading company for testing, from greasy wool to finished garment’, he says. SGS Wool Testing Services in New Zealand has been independently measuring greasy wool, scoured wool, and tops and sliver to verify quality and quantity across different criteria for over 50 years. It is accredited to ISO 17025, and licensed by the IWTO. SGS provide buyers and sellers of wool and wooltop with the data they need for their processing. Its testing services include yield (woolbase and vegetable matter), mean fibre diameter, and colour, as well as staple length and strength, bulk, fibre curvature, fibre diameter distribution, diameter-length profile, and medullation. ‘When you need to be sure about the characteristics of wool, or any other natural fibre, you can order testing though our online shop. For certificates we will liaise with the SGS office closest to the origin of the wool you wish to buy or sell. We can arrange for that wool to be independently sampled and tested by SGS. Or you can submit samples directly for test reports for your information or for trading
where buyer and seller agree. These services are quick and cost effective, particularly when a number of samples are provided. Verifiable reporting is provided electronically’, says Jeremy Wear. Many manufacturing hubs in Eastern Europe already use SGS testing services and this is expected to increase as they cement their export capabilities and international buyers request greater certification on products received. SGS product testing includes a full range of chemical, performance, mechanical and physical properties testing, including materials identification, characterisation, and structural analysis; materials performance; raw material properties; environmental and durability testing; flammability testing; and microscopic analysis. ‘SGS material testing services are a vital tool to reducing risk in the production process, and ultimately meeting the expectations of customers’. The SGS range of services and technical information can be viewed at www.wooltesting. sgs.com and Jeremy Wear can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org. The online services will be available at the SGS Shop from November 2019 https://onlineservices.sgs.com/nz. The location of SGS offices can be found at https://www.sgs.com/en/office-directory
Yarn & Fabric
Versatility makes the difference by Victor Chesky
It was my first visit to Nejdek, a city close to the more famous spa town of Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic, bordering the German regions of Saxony and Bavaria. Karlovy Varyâ€™s numerous thermal springs have made it a popular resort since the 19th century. Although its reputation preceded me I was glad to have the opportunity to see this history rich region for myself. I arrived in Nejdek to meet with Joachim Schulz, Chairman at VLNAP, a subsidiary company of Wagenfelder Spinning Group Germany (WS). I was interested to find out more about VLNAPâ€™s yarn production for the transport industry - what I found is a spinning manufacturer offering a diverse range in yarn production from worsted yarns.
LNAP started as a scouring company in 1873 processing European wools. It has also been importing and processing wools from Australia and New
Zealand for spinning since the 1940s. In 1948 under communist rule the company
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operated as a state textile enterprise including 7 spinning mills and employing 7500 people. After the Velvet Revolution in 1990 most state owned enterprises closed down and those still operating looked to partners from neighbouring Western Europe to stay afloat. Modiano and Marzotto are some of
Yarn & Fabric those companies also operating in the Czech Republic today. ‘Wagenfelder Spinning Group Germany acquired VLNAP in 2001’, says Joachim Schulz. ‘The first step was to replace old machinery with the latest technology to satisfy the quality demand from our customers in Europe. Shifting the culture from the communist era to a modern operating model took time and hard work. This has paid off and we are proud of the modern, well-run manufacturing plant that you see here now. Today we often feel more Czech than German’, he says with a smile. Today VLNAP is the largest production complex for Wagenfelder Spinning Group in Czech Republic. It manufactures industrial as well as hand knitting yarns and worsted yarn, ecru and colored from Nm 7 up to Nm 90 single and twisted. ‘A major advantage that our Group offer to customers is our wide range of yarn, from worsted, semi worsted, woollen, open end, air jet and cotton system for weavers – knitters and carpet manufactures. We have the knowledge to work with any fibre to produce any blend and create new yarn for any system. Our yarn is used in fabrics for industrial textiles including upholstery and carpet in the transport sector, military uniforms, all types of garments and even in fibre optic cables. We manufacture only to individual customer specification and do not hold stock ‘, comments Joachim Schulz.
‘We have been working with wool for many years and it is no surprise to us that it should fit so well in the needs of the transport sector today. This sector requires that its fabric fulfill criteria in colour fastness to light, water, and rubbing. It must meet all standards in flame retardancy, low smoke treatment, abrasion resistance, and low pilling. The wool we use in our yarn for the transport sector is coarser wool from 25.5 up to 34.5 mµ, meeting all technical requirements’. The bus industry is using mainly pile fabrics in a 70% polyester/ 30% wool blend. ‘The yarn we supply for this sector is top dyed or cone dyed. We use wool from South America with good length and low VM. For pile fabric the high crimp of this wool allows good coverage. One great advantage of a pile fabric is the durability and the relative low susceptibility it has to contamination’, he says. ‘In comparison to the bus industry, with its pile fabric, the trains sector prefers flat weaves. Here we utilize a blend of 85% new wool and 15% Polyamide. The advantage in using raw wool and polyamide as a blend is that the dye stuff for both materials is the same. There is no expensive double dye process. For this sector we use quite a lot of New Zealand wool because of the very low content of black Joachim Schulz – CEO Vlnap a.s.
Today production includes Woollen yarn - NM 0.5 – 14; Worsted yarn - NM 1.0 – 14; Semi worsted yarn - NM 0. – 14; Vortex yarn - NM 20 – 60; Open end yarn - NM 1.5 – 40. ‘Our designers develop yarn to achieve a level of technical performance required by our customers. ‘We work with man-made fibres as well as natural fibres including speciality fibre from Alpaca, Mohair Cashmere, and even Buffalo. But Wool is our passion. Whenever we have the chance to use wool we do’, comments Joachim Schulz. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Yarn & Fabric hairs and the good white grade of the wool to realize also bright colors. In Germany, up to 350 new trains are put into service each year. Based on these figures this sector offers enormous potential for wool! Aviation is another sector with much potential. Only the most expensive wool is used in this area and therefore it is customers of business and first class seats that enjoy this high end fabric using two main blends; 60% new wool and 40% LENZING viscose FR (flame resistant); and 85% new wool 15% Polyamide. While it may be a smaller market than buses and trains it is a potentially lucrative one. All wool used for this premium sector is special selected, very long and clean. The yarn will be delivered ecru ready for cone dyeing or piece dyeing. Especially for the aerospace industry we have developed very fine yarn, to save weight, which is extremely important to save fuel. As well as seat covers, carpet for aircraft is also a market with great potential.
‘Did you know there are 6,500 passenger ships worldwide, 300 of which are cruise ships. This is a growing industry and it will only increase’, says Joachim Schulz. ‘Our yarn is only represented in luxury cabins and so we can be more creative in developing yarn with fewer restrictions than required by the aviation industry, with respect to such issues as weight. Here we are able to deliver yarn spun with the woollen, semi worsted and worsted technology. This gives us opportunities to develop tweeds, slubs, loops, ondes, bouclés, frises, moulines, cables and multi – twists. ‘We are very keen that designers and architects in the various industries that use wool understand the great advantage this fibre offers in safety, comfort, and durability. And we are just as keen to get the positive message out about wool, to all those travelers and commuters that sit and walk on this wonderful fibre every single day’. Joachim Schulz can be contacted at Joachim.Schulz@Vlnap.cz, www.wagenfelder.de
Reach 10,000 textile companies worldwide
f you think telling over 10,000 buyers worldwide about your company sounds impossible - think again.
wool2yarn is read by wool industry decision makers in over 60 countries worldwide, including China. These industry trade guides, published once each year (September), is circulated to 10,000 textile companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool processors and topmakers, manufacturers of yarn, carpets and rugs, spinners and weavers, cloth and garment manufacturers including major brands and retail chains. Advertise in wool2yarn magazines and reach them all. The next issues of wool2yarn magazines will be published in September 2020. To find out more about advertising opportunities contact Victor Chesky - email@example.com or visit www.wool2yarnglobal.com
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NZWTA Provides Pesticide Residue Testing Solutions for Global Industry
nternational environmental agencies demand strict regulations relating to chemical (pesticide) residue levels in wool. The IWTO Standard DTM-59 is often called upon to identify the presence of these residues. ‘Customers from around the world can now take advantage of the international wool pesticide testing service on offer from NZWTA Ltd’, says Phil Cranswick, NZWTA Customer Services Manager.
Wagenfelder Spinning Group offering you more in innovative yarns WOOLLEN YARN WORSTED AND SEMI YARN OPEN END YARN AIR JET YARN – EFFECT TWISTS
In partnership with Agrifood Technology (also owned by AWTA Ltd), NZWTA provides the only ISO-17025-accreditated service for IWTO-DTM-59 outside Australia. Conducted under license from the CSIRO, analysis is performed on extracts taken from wool samples using patented equipment and processes. Results are provided on various pesticides, including Organophosphates, Synthetic Pyrethroids, Organochlorines and Insect Growth Regulators to comply with EU Ecolabel and other regulations. Instructions on sending samples to NZWTA for pesticide residue testing, including import permit documentation and required declaration forms, can be downloaded from the NZWTA website https://nzwta.co.nz/importing-samples/ For further information, please contact NZWTA at firstname.lastname@example.org.
TOPS DYEING • CONE DYEING HANK DYEING • HANK PRINTING JACQUARD PRINTING • FIBER DYEING
HOME FURNITURE TEXTILE
Wagenfelder Spinning Group
www.vlnap.cz • www.wagenfelder.de
Yarn & Fabric
Q &A with Giorgio Todesco, CEO of Marzotto by Victor Chesky
began my visit to Marzotto Group with a tour through its museum - a stroll through Marzotto history and the history of Italy’s own industrial revolution. The impact that Marzotto has had on the community infrastructure in Valdagno and the province of Vicenza runs deep.
It all started with Luigi Marzotto, owner of a small hotel in Valdagno in the early 1800s, who was unable to find a fabric to upholster couches for his hotel. He employed local craftsmen to produce the specific fabric he needed and seeing this as a commercial opportunity he founded a small wool weaving mill in Valdagno in 1836. Since that time each successive generation has build on this beginning in fabric production to create a world recognized brand for fabric in both menswear and womenswear. And in this process, it has forever reshaped the economic and social landscape of Valdagno and the region around it. Today Marzotto produces over 31 million metres of fabric, 5,000 tons of yarn, and employs over 4000 people in its 15 production facilities, 10 of which are located in Italy. I asked Mr Giorgio Todesco CEO of Marzotto how important wool fibre is to the Group and to its collection in the coming season? 76 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Franco Fabrello chief designer at Marzotto (left) and Giorgio Todesco
A. ‘Wool is, and will continue to be the core business of Marzotto Group’, Giorgio Todesco says. ‘We use wool on its own and mixed with other noble fibers such as silk and cashmere, and with technical fibers for fabrics with particular performance requirements. Our production of wool fabrics, mixed with cotton and linen is also growing all natural fibers are part of the DNA of our Group.’
Q. Wool fibre performs well in sports, leisurewear and other activewear garments. How is Marzotto incorporating such innovations into its latest collections?
A. Giorgio Todesco comments that ‘the importance for us in sport, leisurewear and other activewear markets is evident in our recent participation in ISPO (Monaco), the most important exhibition dedicated to Active mountain sports. Marzotto Wool Manufacturing, in addition to being a leader in the production of formal fabrics for men’s suits, has always been in the informal sectors of fashion in mens and women’s fabrics. In 1994, Marzotto proposed the concept of Stretch Fabrics for men’s suits, previously only used in women’s fabrics. In 2002 the Mill introduced its 100% wool machine
Yarn & Fabric
washable fabrics and in 2010 its SCUDO Collection, a collection of woollen performance fabrics for outerwear. Each Marzotto wool manufacturing brand interprets the theme of innovation and performs with its own identity: that is, our sophisticated and modern collection including our elegant Guabello; modern and functional Estethia G.B. Conte in jersey fabrics; luxury for Fratelli Tallia di Delfino; and young and dynamic Marlane.’
Q. Many European clothing brands demand full fibre traceability and certification throughout their supply chain. How important is fibre traceability to the Marzotto brand? And your Group recently acquired an interest in G. Schneider NZ and Australia, how does this fit into your strategy in fibre procurement?
A. ‘Our direct link with the wool grower enables us to control wool supply and quality. Combining quality, full traceability
and especially sustainability gives us a competitive advantage. Adding this to our joint venture with Schneider Group, we intend to strengthen our supply chain in Australia and New Zealand, improving the relationship with wool growers, brokers and also with all our existing wool supply partners. Traceability and transparency are not only about tracing wool down the supply chain, it is also about improving communication with different stakeholders. Connecting all players of the wool supply chain and applying modern technology improves communication from growers to retailers and consumers and back. ‘Todays’ society expects that the raw materials in their clothes come from well treated animals - non-mulesed, and processed with clean chemicals, sustainable, recyclable and biodegradable - and wool can deliver this’. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Yarn & Fabric
Q. Prices for Merino wool are at historic highs. How does this affect fabric manufacturers such as Marzotto?
A. ‘Wool prices are definitely at levels not reached in the last 10 years, higher even than 2011, and this is influencing the choices our customers are making, especially in the mass market. Demand for 100% wool fabric is diminishing and demand for fabrics made of wool blended with synthetic and artificial fibers such as polyester, nylon, and viscose is on the rise. This economic market change has forced us at Marzotto Wool Manufacturing to consider the use of different blends, in particular for our women’s and sportswear collections. ‘Notwithstanding this it remains fundamental to preserve a positive image of wool with consumers, particularly when choosing their next luxury garment. In the coming years we must insist on addressing and communicating with the next generation concerning sustainability, the circular economy, and the biodegradability of wool, in particular, but also regarding other natural fibers such as flax and cotton. In this sense I think that together with all those along the supply chain, and industry wool grower bodies, we should and can do much more.’
Q. What new and exciting products and projects is Marzotto focusing on for its 2019/20 collections?
A. ‘We are working on several new projects: Organic Wool&Linen, a 78 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
cutting-edge project, where the blending of wool and linen creates something exclusive, an ethical collection of organic fabrics certified GOTS and developed by Marzotto, Guabello and Estethia G.B. Conte. ‘We are developing Scudo Collection, with new outerwear fabrics characterised by outstanding performance, always using the most sustainable production process. In addition we are studying new men’s fabrics for suiting, with great comfort and performance to adapt to the frenzy of modern life. ‘We are also working on a digitalization project that will enable us to scan yarn to digitalized color and create fabric pattern in a digital form on-line. Our customers can see the fabric pattern and color in real time. They can manipulate both pattern and color according to their needs quickly and digitally. This will reduce fabric sample and patch waste, bring products to the market much faster, and also minimize the risk of unsold goods’.
For Results you can Trust
Yarn & Fabric
PROGRESS EXP is available in different blends and counts for flat knitting, circular knitting and seamless.
Creating Intelligent Yarns ‘The quality of fabric for fashion, sports and technical applications depend on the quality of the yarn that is used’, says Kurt Haselwander CEO at Schoeller the Spinning Group. ‘Yarn for this sector must achieve high performance and functionality and our company currently has more than 20 new products in development. We work with universities and other research institutions to create improvements in yarns for increasingly diverse applications.More than 10% of employees work in research, development, and design. Innovation is at the core of our company.’
choeller has been researching into recyclable and degradable polyamide and polyester blends with wool for some time. This is an exciting new area that offers new research and product opportunities. Yarns like quality Horizon, a blend of 80% merino 20% degradable PA or Extension PLUS with 65% merino and 35% recycled polyester for the seamless production are already part of the collection. Moreover, it is being developed in the field of degradable PLA fibers.
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Schoeller’s patented EXP wool treatment has been developed to produce washable wool without chlorine. Tumble drying is also possible. EXP completely avoids the use of chlorine, using natural salts as an oxidization agent. ‘It is a truly all-round sustainable innovation that we use for our yarn that is recognised by Bluesign, GOTS, and Oeko-Tex,’ says Kurt Haselwander. The rapidly increasing next-to-skin clothing
Yarn & Fabric sector continues to inspire manufacturers to develop new products using wool. ‘Our PROGRESS EXP yarn combines super fine merino and Tencel, that makes ideal blending partners. This yarn offers excellent wearing properties in the medium to heavy load range’, says Kurt Haselwander. Due to its hydrophobic fibrous shell, merino wool transmits part of the moisture to the Tencel fibre, a strong and efficient moisture buffer. As wool feels dry even when it has absorbed up to 30% of moisture, the soft hand feel remains comfortable even with an increased level of moisture. In turn, Tencel is up to 50% more absorbent than cotton. Tencel fibre comes from sustainable sources making it a highly sustainable cellulosic fibre. ‘Demand for this type of yarn is growing rapidly, in particular when it is offered with our EXP treatment. This allows garments to be washed multiple times and it is ideal for sports gear. ‘ Luxury clothing fashion and function come together in the Shaminah 14,5μ branded yarn. ‘Combining performance and quality in worsted yarn for luxury clothing fabric our Shaminah is soft and smooth to the skin and light and comfortable for elegant clothing’, he says. In the 21st century Alpaca is no longer reserved exclusively for the nobility. Soft and fine, Schoeller is further expanding the range of materials available to the car seat and upholstery sector with the introduction of its fibre mix of alpaca and dope dyed polyester – the first of its kind in the world. The alpaca fibres are not dyed. Instead, the untreated fibres are sorted based on their colour for use in the manufacturing process. These allow melange colours to be created that require no dyes or water for dyeing. ‘Nature dyes are the material for us! This is a huge advantage for sustainability, or as many people say “a new level of sustainability (NLS)”. Due to the high level of interest the market has shown, the Alpaca NLS is already available for automotive uses in three different natural melanges of white, beige and anthracite. This genuinely
Extension PLUS for Seamless - Nm 80/1 - 65% Super fine merino machine washable, 35% Recycled Polyester
natural car-friendly alpaca NLS thread, used on the seat shown using flat knit technology, is a further step towards fully implementing sustainability in the automotive sector. A stock service for flat knitting, upholstery and automotive use is available’. Schoeller pure wool and wool blend worsted yarn is produced at its facility in Austria and spinning facility in the Czech Republic, with a total production capacity of 3,600 tons per annum. Recently Schoeller the Spinning Group has been acquired by Indorama Holdings, one big player in the world of yarns. ‘We are making the future happen today. We address specific customer requirements and supply our customers and partners with tangible added value’, concludes Kurt Haselwander. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Yarn & Fabric
Worsted Mule Spinning
Woollen yarn from China Wool Top Testing
he world population is expected to reach beyond 9 billion people by 2050, an increase of more than 2 billion over the next 30 years. ‘And although there are challenges ahead including trade disputes and high natural fibre prices, the demand for textiles will continue to grow,’ says Mr Xiaogang Zha, president at Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles. ‘Environmental issues are already impacting on manufacturing and consumer sentiment. I believe this will continue to be an important issue with consumers and government regulators.’ ‘Larger Chinese textile companies are getting even bigger,’ adds Mr Zha. ‘We have seen the demise of smaller companies due to changing export market conditions, environmental compliance, and high wool prices.’ Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, and knitted garments. It is based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta, employing over 850 people.
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Yarn & Fabric
Worsted Ring Spinning
It exports its yarn to all parts of the world. Mr Zha comments, ‘both international and domestic markets demand better quality products. The increase in demand for outdoor wear, particularly sportswear, continues to be strong. We have made big investments in our production to create better and better quality yarn.’ The cashmere Lianhong spins into yarn is mostly from Inner Mongolia, China and is between 15 and 16 microns in diameter. ‘We have initiated a programme of organic and traceable cashmere,’ says Mr Zha. ‘Cashmere fibre is limited in quantity. This makes the yarn produced much more exclusive,’ he adds. ‘We meet the challenges in supply and in environmental and quality requirements and we look to the future with confidence,’ says Mr Zha. ‘We remain focused on innovation, research and development. Our cashmere yarn is all dyed and carded before it is spun. This is an essentially gentle process that gives a superior colour result and finished hand feel. All our dyes are environmentally friendly passing through stringent quality controls. Once used the dyes are expertly removed from the water allowing the water to be continually
recycled, greatly reducing water consumption and environmental impact. We welcome enquiries about the yarn we can supply.’ Lianhong holds certificates in WOOLMARK, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, bluesign, R.W.S, ORGANIC 100, ORGANIC BLENDED, BCI, Global Recycled Standard, ISO9001:2015 Quality Management System, ISO14001:2015 Environment Management System, and more. For more information please contact Heinrich Zhang at Email: email@example.com
Mr Xiaogang Zha, 2nd from right, with customers and sales team
Technical vision for the future Demonstrating user-friendly human interface to customers
nsc fibre to yarn provides on-line sliver control and quality variation alarms, and production and troubleshooting data collection. Easy running also includes the recording of working tables and recipes and automatic settings of several machines at the same time. It also provides on-line machine documentation and diagnostic and on-line troubleshooting.
TMA 2019 was held in Barcelona in June with a record number of exhibitors and visitors. More than 1,717 exhibitors from 45 countries cemented this as the largest textile and garment technology exhibition. It provided nsc fibre to yarn the perfect opportunity to exhibit its new technical development axis and explain to customers the what/why/when to use each component to best effect. ‘Our main objective at ITMA was to speak with customers and explain how our latest ERA 50, GC 50, and FMV 50machinery can improve productivity, textile quality, and optimize their operations. Our machines are designed to increase running longevity, reduce waste, and reduce the workforce needed to run them’, says Patrick Strehle of nsc fibre to yarn. ‘We took the opportunity at ITMA to explain the ergonomic advantages in using our machines and demonstrate the easy settings and minimal fuss operation’.
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The wool industry today is driven by a constant striving for new innovative ways to treat and process fibre. As processing techniques improve, wool is increasingly being used in many new products. ‘We deliver textile machinery that is trouble-free, fully automated and achieving better quality outcomes. ‘Our customers also expect savings in energy costs and reduced labour input. Flexibility is also a big issue. ‘Our latest combs, worsted cards, and stretch breaking machines achieve all this and that is why they are in demand by processors and spinners around the world’, says Patrick Strehle. ‘ITMA exhibition was a very worthwhile opportunity to demonstrate our technical development axes to interested industry participants. Our electric motion axis provides for the replacement of mechanical drive via gears and belts by electric drive with independent motors. This is suitable for ERA 50 (9 axes), GC 50 (10 axis), FMV 50 (10 axes). It is easy maintenance with unlimited possibilities for setting of different axes. Its range of settings reduces material waste and tool-less setting reduces machine downtime. ‘Our new electric design with enhanced performance operates on BECKHOFF PLC and software, LENZE motors and frequency
nsc fibre to yarn exhibition booth
Patrick Strehle comments that ‘by ITMA 2023 a whole range of nsc fibre to yarn machines equipped with the same HMI and screen will be available. The development of service tools will be available between 2019 and 2023.These include new 15.6” touch screens, with internet access from the HMI screen, and technical documentations available on the screen with troubleshooting help, and tutorial.
nsc fibre to yarn commercial team at ITMA
inverters that can be adapted to the same electrical design on the full range of nsc fibre to yarn. This creates unlimited possibilities to communicate between machines of a same line. It also enables the recording of recipes and working tables and transfers to other machines simultaneously. Machines can also be equipped with troubleshooting data collection, increased machine operating flexibility, and new human machine interface and tool-less settings’. A further development is the user-friendly human interface. At ITMA 2019 the first 3 machines equipped with the new HMI were exhibited. As to what can be expected in the future,
This achieves intuitive HMI communication and multi-functionality provisions such as settings, operating information, alarms, diagnostics and on-line help, and internet connection. Upstream access to nsc fibre to yarn tools and downstream access to the data of the customer’s machines is something we discuss with each individual customer’, says Patrick Strehle. Transversal access to the machine via MES/ERP and easy settings and drive of the machines have also been designed. Prototype to detect the sliver weight variation when the machine is in operation will be available within next year. It will guarantee that weight variations are in pre-set limits in order to to minimize the sliver breakdown at the spinning frame and less splicing at the winder. It will also increase the global productivity of the textile line and decrease the lab control on samples. wool2yarnglobal 2019
LUXURY YARN manufacturers choose AUTEFA cards ‘In the past two years we have experienced an increased demand for our cards from manufacturers in Asia, particularly for spinning’, says Giacomo Meucci Regional Sales Director Autefa Solutions from its office in Biella Italy. Recent AUTEFA installations include machinery for both topmaking and yarn manufacture including two 3.5m cards at Red Sun in China, 10 woolen carding sets at Ningbo China (Consinee Group), and 4 woolen carding sets Mongolia (Gobi and Goyo).
ed Sun is the second biggest topmaking company in China. Ningbo Consignee will operate the most automated and modern plant for processing cashmere, and Gobi is the biggest spinning mill in Mongolia. We are pleased that AUTEFA cards were chosen
by Consinee, Gobi, and Red Sun for their production, says Giacomo Meucci. AUTEFA is a leading manufacturer of cards for woollen and worsted cashmere and luxury yarn. ‘Our cards are chosen by the world’s top textile manufacturers for modernity, reliability, high production and an excellent after sale service,’ he says. ‘Our cards provide yarn manufacturers with excellent quality output. They can run at the precise speed, to guarantee the best yarn quality achievable’, says Giacomo Meucci. ‘In addition, new side doors without rails on the floor, provide easy and quick access to the card parts for cleaning and maintenance.’ The OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave Worsted and Semi-worsted Cards guarantee high productivity without compromising the quality of the top. The result is fibre fineness from 14.5 - 40 microns and fiber length from 40 220mm.
Giacomo Meucci signing contract with Boris Xue of Consinee
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AUTEFA woollen carding sets feature feeding cylinders that reduce to 108mm, enabling better fibre control, producing a yarn
Textile Machinery with greater evenness and better CV and Uster values. These cards provide a more simplified opening of the card cover and increased throughput and blending action. A control panel with touch-screen allows easy management of all functions including fault messages. OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave Woollen Carding Sets are available with a single or double tape condenser, as well as either a giant traversing creel or a tandem creel. Based on the OCTIR system, the synchronization between the two cards is mechanical (breaker and finisher) because this is the best way to reach the perfect synchronization by the various carding set cylinders. Wool, Cashmere, Synthetic fibers, other natural fibers including Camel Hair, Mohair, Alpaca, and Yak, fibers, new or reclaimed, pure or blended can be processed into woollen yarns from 0.6 Nm to over 40 Nm for Carpet Yarns,
Blanket Yarns, Weaving Yarns, and Knitting Yarns. ‘We are the only manufacturer of new cards to use cast iron frames. This guarantees a long life and stability to our cards, so we can achieve stable settings between cylinders and drums, and at the end less fiber breakages and damage and longer final average fiber length in the tops; then we use large diameters drums with 6 strippers. The easy cleaning of the wool is reached thanks to Ø 650 mm Morel cylinders that increase cleaning and de-burring capacity and produce more clean tops. A more efficient dust suction system improves suction of dust and exhaust air’, Meucci explains. ‘Our new machines will provide consistency and evenness in top and yarn production, and tops will be some 2-3mm longer’, he concludes. For more information please contact Giacomo Meucci at Giacomo.Meucci@autefa.com
OCTIR. Woollen. Worsted. Semi worsted.
The best worsted, semi worsted, and woollen carding sets to process the finest fibers.
Fully automated quality for topmakers and spinners ‘The high level of technological innovation required by the industry and in the wool sector itself means that we must always improve our machines. Manufacturers of wool yarn demand consistency, accuracy, and speed. Our new fully automated machines will enable the monitoring of tops online without stopping the machines mid way through an order’, says Marco Ploner of Sant’ Andrea Novara.
TMA has always been a platform for textile manufacturers to launch and exhibit their latest innovations in design and machinery. ‘We were pleased to launch our fully automated gilling machines at this global industry event’, he says. A leading manufacturer of a wide range of products including combing, blending and preparation to spinning processes of all long staple Sant’Andrea Novara has been manufacturing its high-quality textile machinery since 1928.
Left to right: Silvio Givone, Mario Ploner and Marco Ploner
‘Previously, to ensure that the right quality goes through the machine the tops were ckecked in the laboratory. The running process sometimes had to be stopped to adjust the quality, wasting time and wasting
fibre. This new fully automated online process ensures 100% quality and consistency. The operator can adjust any quality issues during the production process, without stopping the machinery, and more importantly the control will memorise the exact parameters required and guarantee this quality for any future lots’, says Marco Ploner. This innovation in touch control and online control systems goes hand-in-hand with a complete re-design of the outer shell. It will ensure that processors achieve optimum speed and quality. Sant’ Andrea Novara is also developing a new outer-shell body for all new machines. ‘Our follow-up service and spare parts are part of the design and construction package we provide our customers for all our machinery’, says Mario Ploner. ‘Our new designs provide extreme flexibility to track and resolve customer needs. ‘Our main efforts are also focused on the development of new software for improving maintenance. Proper utilization helps workers to learn how to run these new machines with tutors and maintenance programs together with spare parts suggestions and personal assistance organized in our workshop. Each project is tailor-made and delivered on time’. For more information please contact our commercial department at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Member of Beppe Ploner Group
New automated insertion technique for Coppa Combs Mario Ploner of Coppa. ‘If combs are not correctly installed or are too old, they can affect the quality and speed of entire topmaking process. Coppa combs are manufactured from the highest quality steel, using highly accurate processes and all European manufacturers of combing machinery use our combs and we supply to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) companies includingNSC, Sant’Andrea, OKK and Cognetex’, he says.
extile machinery for combing, preparation, and twisting of wool and synthetic fibres has been innovating steadily to enhance the quality of production, saving in energy, and meeting the stringent demands that textile machinery manufacturers work under today.’Although our combs are a small component in these machines, they play an integral role in the production process’, says
‘In order to meet the needs of our customers all over the world, we also produce a new insert grip machine. When the insert with pins is wornout and it is necessary to change it, until now the replacement operation has been done manually. So the next step forward was to develop a method to do this mechanically. This machine providesgreater accuracy than the manual method and eliminates damage that can be made to the comb during manual insertion. The new machine inserts combs with greater accuracy and provides a safer installation process for the operator’, says Mario Ploner. Coppa has been operating for over 50 years in the production of such accessories for textile machines. During this time the company has continued to innovate and modernize to keep pace with the technologies needed for todays’ production processes. ‘Our experience garnered over time, and our willingness to collaborate with prominent textile machinery manufacturers, has allowed the company to grow over. We guarantee that Coppa products provide longevity, durability, minimum maintenance, and simple needle replacement’.
Connecting buyers and sellers
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2017-2018
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2018-2019
INTERNATIONAL TRADE PUBLICATIONS
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Reaching customers in China
wool2yarn china is used by wool and textile companies around the world to advertise their products and services to the textile industry in China. ‘This Chinese language publication is circulated to over 5000 major importers of wool and speciality fibres, wool processing and topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, carpet and garment manufacturers, manufactures of yarn and fabric, rugs carpet and government agencies and ministries in China’, says Victor Chesky, Editor. ‘It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market.’ wool2yarn china is also distributed to all delegates (500+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool market Conference, the major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China. This magazine is also distributed to textile enterprises in Hong Kong and Taiwan. ‘wool2yarn china provides exporters from around the world the opportunity to reach buyers in China, communicating in Chinese, breaking down any language barrier,’ says Mr Chesky.
Member of Beppe Ploner Group
‘For companies seeking new customers, advertising in wool2yarn china will introduce their company to this targeted decision maker base in all sectors of the wool industry in China. For companies that have established customers in China, advertising in wool2yarn china will reinforce their position as a preferred supplier to these existing customers. ‘wool2yarn china is published in September each year and is used as a buyers’ guide by companies in China over the following 12 months. If your company is interested in advertising in the 2020 issue of wool2yarn china please contact us on firstname.lastname@example.org or www.wool2yarnchina.com wool2yarnglobal 2019
Tecnomeccanica Biellese stand at ITMA Barcelona
Key to success custom made for accuracy
t ITMA Barcelona, Tecnomeccanica Biellese exhibited its latest wet fibers feeder model for its drying machine. ‘Today staple fiber
processors can completely automate their process from bale opener to fiber blending, from washing to drying’, says Mario Ploner of Tecnomeccanica Biellese. ‘The quality of any finished product made from natural fibers will be influenced by the many processes that it must go through, although
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many textile companies may not focus on early stage processing of the natural fibers they process. But it is fundamentally important to get this right to ensure that further processing can achieve optimum quality. The main objective of this new machine is to achieve exactly this, and the market today recognizes and appreciate this’, says Mario Ploner. Tecnomeccanica Biellese has been a leader in blending fiber plant production for fifty years, and has consolidated its growth position, with the Chinese market becoming the most
Tecnomeccanica Biellese opening machine exhibited at ITMA Barcelona with a working height of 75cm and width of 1m wide loader. This can be supplied at a higher working height, with a loader up to 4m wide
important in recent years. Mario Ploner adds that ‘custom-made, easy cleaning projects are always focused on quality of the final product, and our Italian problem solving approach is a winner with customers’. ‘We continue to take advantage of our market position and our collaboration with Alea in producing this staple fiber dryer, with its wet fiber feeder as presented at ITMA, has been well received. These systems, together provide a perfect water waste removal and drying system that ensures consistency in quality’, he says. The new dryer is built entirely of stainless steel to prevent corrosion even after continuous use with wet material. The loader consists of a horizontal feeding table, at the end of which there is a vertical spiked carpet. The mat conveys the material to reach the adjustable opening cylinder, allowing opening of the dyeing cakes to guarantee a homogeneous dosage at the dryer entrance. Tecnomeccanica Biellese operates in all sectors of the industry where staple fibers are processed: combing, woollen and semi-worsted, spinning, production of nonwoven fabrics, felt, wadding and waste regeneration plants. The company also designs and manufactures machines for the suction removal of dust from rooms, machines and fibres with systems for automatic filtering and dust packing. ‘We base our designs on the available space of each client and the specific requirements that their production needs. We manufacture from Biella, the heart of Italy’s wool district and have been supplying to leading textile companies’.
Management team at Tecnomeccanica Biellese - left to right: Paola Ploner, Stefania Ploner, Mario Ploner, Luigi Ploner, and Marco Ploner
Tecnomeccanica Biellese also exhibited several upgraded technologies at ITMA Barcelona. ‘We are working on increasing automation of our machinery and to push research for an every improving and personalised service to our customer. In a market in which everything seems to move in one direction in the name of “standardization”, we are working in a parallel direction for the custom made market, looking for the best solution to guarantee the production of the best reachable quality’. ‘25% of our machinery is sold to customers within Europe and the other 75% to customers in China, and South American including Peru, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile. Today’s manufacturers want to use the latest textile machinery as a commercial necessity. Greater competition and environmental concerns have pushed many companies to manufacture better quality products. In all our Beppe Ploner group of companies, that include Tecnomeccanica Biellese, Sant’Andrea Textile Machines and Coppa, we provide manufacturers with the latest technology options to achieve these objectives’, says Mario Ploner. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Wool in Bedding
JOMA® Wool - naturally better
oma Wool® is a specialty product, created by leading New Zealand wool exporter John Marshall & Co for manufacturers of mattress and bedding products worldwide.
vertical alignment of the fibres and crimp work together to create a cushion under the body that facilitates air circulation’, says Peter Crone.
A high quality natural fibre, Joma Wool® is fully traceable and grown in New Zealand. Unlike other wools, it undergoes a special crimping process that adds considerable bulk, strength and resilience. ‘When our customers open a bag of Joma Wool® they’re always surprised at how it jumps out to resume its original volume. The crimping process gives it a springiness and loft that makes it ideal for mattresses and bedding products”, says Peter Crone, Managing Director of John Marshall & Co.
Promoting a natural and ethically sourced product is important to the John Marshall & Co business. ‘Our wool comes from farmers who abide by strict rules and regulations around animal welfare, and mulesing is against the law in New Zealand and our Joma® Wool meets strict Oeko-Tex 100 standards.’
In addition to being natural and sustainable, Joma Wool® offers customers a host of other benefits. All Joma Wool® is thoroughly cleaned and non-allergenic, making it ideal for customers who are allergic to feather and down or who suffer a reaction to synthetic bedding products. It is also available treated with UltraFresh, an antimicrobial, antifungal treatment for added protection.
Peter Crone is a longstanding believer in the value of wool. ‘We promote the development of wool to ensure that its physical benefits are matched by its economic and technical performance’, he says.’Our Joma® Wool ticks all the boxes for bedding manufacturers. Retail customers like that it is non-allergenic, flame resistant, liquid repellent, and vapour absorbent – and they can feel good about its effect on the world, too.’
‘We believe that synthetic fibre products are no match for wool when it comes to bedding products. Our specially processed wool has extra crimp and an increased bulk of 40% to 50% which further enhances its natural resilience. Each fibre functions as a miniature spring and the
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JOMA WOOL® IS FREE FROM HARMFUL SUBSTANCES. OUR WOOL PROUDLY MEETS OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.
So many reasons to love a mattress made with Joma Wool® PROVEN AUTHENTICITY Joma Wool® is independently verified by Oritain to be of genuine New Zealand origin.
CLEAN & NON-ALLERGENIC Joma Wool® is clean and non-allergenic. It is also available treated with UltraFresh, an antimicrobial, antifungal treatment for added protection.
FLAME RESISTANT Joma Wool® is safe. Its high keratin and moisture content resists burning without the need for harmful chemicals.
THERMAL REGULATION Joma Wool® traps air to create a stable microclimate, keeping sleepers warm in winter and cool in summer.
SUPERIOR COMFORT Joma Wool’s® special crimping process makes it feel extra soft and springy, and resists compression over time.
MOISTURE CONTROL Wool’s unique natural properties repel liquid from the surface but absorb vapor, so sleepers never feel clammy or damp.
Visit our website today to find out more www.joma.nz
Wool in Bedding
Why consumers choose wool in bedding
he increased use of wool in bedding products, including mattresses and mattress toppers, is driven by a number of factors. There is a plethora of research that people sleep better with wool and of course environmental factors are at centre stage. The number of conventional synthetic based mattresses discarded as un-recyclable is in the hundreds of thousands each year and is just another contribution to the landfills already beyond capacity. This has not escaped public awareness and scrutiny as consumers turn to wool as a biodegradable fibre of choice for their bedding. 96 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
‘The bedding manufacturers that come to us require wool for the ultimate in comfort and long performance’, says Albert Chippendale at Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB). Wool has a long-standing reputation for warmth and strength. It can bend back on itself 20,000 times without breaking. Compare this to cotton at 3,200 times, silk at 1,800, and rayon at only 75 times. And despite its natural moisture content, wool’s dry, porous nature repels mildew and dust mites. It is naturally fire-resistant and its excellent insulating characteristics, light weight, and naturally warm, that is perfect for the bedding sector. SPB uses Superwash treatment for tops and loose wool and was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation in integrated pollution prevention and control. ‘Our treatment out-performs other shrink proofing techniques in particular for wool varieties, blends, and large quantities’, says Albert Chippendale. ‘Our processing eliminates inconsistencies in early wool shrink proofing processes. The superior results include improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced pilling.’ A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due to compacting or felting and can prolong its life considerably. ‘Our plant operates to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. Our products are independently tested and certified by OEKO TEX. This independent system for textile products from all stages of production from fibre to yarn to fabric is particularly important for bedding manufacturers as many of our products are used in children’s bedding.’ ‘We are an independent commission processing company. Customers can send their wool to us for treatment with confidence that their wool will be processed to their specification. We have a quick turnaround time and customers usually receive their product back within days’, he says. ‘We encourage bedding companies to speak to us about their manufacturing needs’. wool2yarnglobal 2019
LUXURY FIBRES unchartered road ahead by: Victor Chesky
2016 to 2018 were very good years for all natural fibres. Demand was strong and by the end of 2018 we saw historically high prices for Alpaca and Mohair. This was partly due to strong demand from China for natural fibres, particularly Alpaca; and Mohair was very well represented in all major Italian brand collections, creating an additional demand from Europe, and in particular Italy. Will this trend continue, I asked Luca Alvigini director of speciality fibre company Alpha Tops in Biella. ‘After two years of unprecedented growth in both demand and price it would probably be unrealistic to expect this to continue forever’, comments
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Luca Alvigini. At the beginning of 2019 demand dropped and prices have already started to give by some 10% in recent months. But he does not see all gloom and doom. Things are still looking reasonably good for all natural fibres in the immediate future. And while he does see demand from China dropping slightly, as for Europe and USA it’s too early to say. ‘We may see another 10% adjustments down but that’s all, he believes. ‘Overall we see the use of Alpaca and Mohair increasing every year.’ Alpaca production increased to 8,000,000 kg greasy, equalling about 6 million in tops. Of this, 1.6 million is consumed internally in Peru. At the beginning of 2019 there was 1,200,000 kg of tops held China. ‘At the beginning of 2019 China had stop buying’, comments Luca Alvigini. ‘We believe that the Chinese built up alpaca fibre stock in China but this is mostly held by state owned companies and not by local processors and fabric manufacturers. There is also stock in Peru that has built up because of the lack of demand from China’.
Speciality Fibre All major brands in Italy continue to use alpaca in their collections for the next seasons. Alpaca is mostly used in the knitting sector and as this season started late we are still waiting to see what the demand for next season will be’, he says. Mr Alvigini also notes that so far this year we have very strong demand for coarser Alpaca between 26 - 35 µm. This is partly due to the clip continuing to become finer, and a diminishing quantity of coarser Alpaca available. Demand for baby Alpaca may not be that strong he says but there is no stock in Italy so at some stage spinners will have to come to the market to buy. At present there is greater demand for coarser alpaca, around 32 µm. ‘Alpaca growers continue to go finer so there is less coarser microns available. Where previously only 25% of the alpaca clip was between 25-26 µm now 50% of the clip is at this range’, he says. Total Alpaca fibre exports in 2016 was 2762t, 4747t in 2017, and 4135t in 2018. Destinations for Alpaca fibre in between January and April 2019 was Italy 743t, China 454t, Taiwan 65t, Korea 43t, and other countries at 107t. A total of 1412t.
‘At present there is more demand for Mohair than availability. Of course the clip is very small’, he says. ‘It is only one third the quantity of the Alpaca clip. We see strong demand for Mohair continuing.’ Cashmere is often referred to as “soft gold” for its costly production process and scarcity. A single cashmere goat yields only 200g of fine hair – barely enough to knit one sweater. The luxurious feel of cashmere makes it especially suited for the production of premium-quality garments, even in a world of fast fashion. The global fashion luxury cashmere clothing market is expected to reach US$3,112 billion in 2022. This is an annual growth rate of 3.86% per year between 2017 and 2022 is expected. The international market price for mid-range cashmere fibre is about US$100 kg. But according to Luca Alvigini cashmere production continues to diminish in China, as its government discourages goat farming as destructive to the landscape. Currently the quantity of cashmere grown in China has reduced to a similar annual production as in Mongolia, that is, between 3.5 and 4 million kg each. The price for cashmere has also been affected negatively by the current trade disputes between USA and China. And the quality has also declined. ‘The biggest problem today is getting good quality cashmere of 15.5 µm and finer’, says Luca Alvigini. ‘The main industry sector to use cashmere is knitting and some 20% of cashmere is sold here in Italy to local knitters consuming 70% and weavers consuming 30%. So we are feeling the impact. Italy imports 1,500,000 kg of cashmere, a significant user of this fibre’. ‘Looking to the future all eyes remain firmly fixed on the China US trade disputes. A positive outcome will lift the economic growth worldwide and increase demand for luxury fibres’, he concludes.
Cashmere steps up to the next level
ashmere fibre has always been associated with luxury. So why not use it in sportswear and leisurewear as well! Clima Dropglide Protection woollen worsted fabric has been developed by well known Italy Cashmere fabric manufacturer, Fratelli Piacenza in Biella. Founded in 1733, but with a family history of merchants dating as far back as 1623, Fratelli Piacenza produces knitting, dyeing, finished warp knit fabrics, and accessories. Today their main markets are Italy, France,
Korea, and Japan. ‘Our Piacenza Collection of Clima Cashmere fabrics have created a modern Outerwear Collection that combine luxury with nanotechnology treatments to make a water resistant and PFC FREE product that is warm, elegant, high-performance, and contains absolutely no harmful substances’, says Ettore Piacenza at Fratelli Piacenza woolen mill. ‘Clima fabric is a winner for those who love the casual style, but at the same time functional, comfortable and stylish.’ The special treatment is applied to the Cashmere fabric and makes it water-repellent, wind resistant, but still light and refined. ‘It is ideal for the businessman or modern traveller - providing maximum comfort without compromising on style. This fabric brings our luxury sportswear for men and women to the next level of technology and of appeal.’ The company works with wool and cashmere and other noble fibres, but cashmere is its biggest focus with 90,000m of cashmere fabric produced each year. ‘We work with baby cashmere in 13.5 micron, regular Chinese cashmere in 15.5 micron, and Mongolian cashmere. Our wool starts at 17.5 micron but we use it as fine as 13.1 micron for worsted fabric.’ Piacenza presents three new collections per year including menswear products, mostly using wool blended with cashmere and vicuña. Their biggest collection is in women’s coats in a blend of wool and cashmere. ‘Not withstanding a slowdown in the luxury market, the very high end of the luxury market is still growing at 10% - we think we have struck the right balance with our Clima fabric between innovation, tradition, and the luxury market,’ says Ettore Piacenza.
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SU STAIN AB LE
N ATURAL FIBRES AN D YARNS
Switzerland South Africa Italy, Biella Italy, Prato China
Alpha Tops SA SAMIL Natural Fibres (Pty) Ltd Alvigini Fibre Nobili s.r.l unipersonale Meucci + C
+41 22 344 0940 +27 41 486 2430 +39 015 34 444 +39 0547 64 32 40 +86 512 5832 7870
+41 22 345 0108 +27 41 486 2665 +39 015 34 447 +39 0547 64 32 42 +89 512 5832 7872
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DEVELOPMENT OF THE RESPONSIBLE MOHAIR STANDARD (RMS)
ver the past decade, Mohair South Africa has focused on promoting a sustainable luxury fibre, efforts which have intensified over the past few months. Mohair South Africa is working closely with Textile Exchange (a global nonprofit that drives industry transformation in preferred fibres, integrity and standards, and responsible supply networks) to incorporate the existing Sustainable Production Guidelines into the internationally-recognised Responsible Wool Standard protocol. Textile Exchange identifies and shares best practices regarding farming, materials, processing, traceability and product end-of-life in order to reduce the textile industry’s impact on the world’s water, soil and air, and the human population. The goals of the Responsible Mohair Standard is to provide the industry with a tool to recognise mohair farmers using best practices, ensuring that mohair is produced at farms with a progressive approach to managing their land and a commitment to treating their goats ethically and responsibly. “Mohair South Africa is committed to continuously improve the mohair industry throughout the entire value chain, working alongside all sector stakeholders to provide clear and transparent evidence of an ethical and responsible industry,” said Lindsay Humphreys, General Manager of Mohair South Africa. “It was our great pleasure to host Textile Exchange and the visiting brands in South 102 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Africa, and we look forward to a fruitful and mutually beneficial partnership in the future.” Textile Exchange follows the ISEAL Codes of Good Practice for standard-setting bodies to ensure that they have a robust and transparent process for our standards. Their highest priorities are to include all parties that may be affected by the standard, and to create a tool that balances strict requirements with realistic and auditable criteria. The development of the standard will be done through an International Working Group, representing the full spectrum of interested parties, including animal welfare groups, brands, farmers, supply chain members and industry associations, as well as brands and retailers. As part of the process of developing a standard, Mohair South Africa invited Textile Exchange and brand representatives from Filippa K and member brands Acne and John Lewis on a field trip to learn about the mohair supply chain. The trip explored each stage of the mohair value chain, with a particular focus on visiting farms and meeting with farmers to better understand how animal welfare and land health is managed and how the draft Responsible Mohair Standard could be applied. “It was very encouraging to see that Mohair South Africa and the farms are working hard towards a responsible mohair standard. Knowing that all the farms have been audited, and that the next step is a third party accreditation, will bring us closer to a sustainable supply chain,” said Doreen Chiang, Production Manager at Filippa K.
Karen Perry, Partner and Sustainability Manager of Raw Materials for John Lewis, said it was important to see how dedicated everyone in the South African mohair industry is to sustainability and responsible mohair production. “The passion and commitment at every stage of the mohair supply chain, from the farmers and their families through to the people working in the brokers, processing plants and spinners was very clear to see. Meeting the vet who supports farmers in adopting best practices in animal welfare was very impressive and it was invaluable to get his views and input into the draft RMS. “John Lewis and Partners works to ensure that the highest standards of animal welfare are achieved and that is why we are proud to be involved with Mohair South Africa and the Textile Exchange in the development of the new RMS.” The draft Responsible Mohair Standard is currently being piloted on farms. Findings from pilot audits of the draft Responsible Mohair Standard will be used to inform the development of the draft standard.
Working on the ground Meanwhile, the South African Mohair Growers’ Association (SAMGA), which represents the interests of Angora goat farmers on various levels, has shifted its focus to on-the-ground training and development, starting with farmworkers and shearing teams. SAMGA manager
Sanmarie Vermaak, in association with the Mohair Empowerment Trust, has hosted training days throughout the mohair production region. The purpose of the training is to inform workers on the best way to handle animals, but also to educate them on medical equipment and procedures to follow in the event of an animals being injured during shearing. “Our industry is healthy and systems are in place so that we can look forward to exciting times ahead,” said Vermaak.
Mohair Market Report The 2018 Mohair summer season started positively which set the trend for the entire summer season. The average market indicator increased by 5.6% on the first sale compared to the last sale of 2017. This was mainly due to the increase in prices in the adult section of the mohair market. Prices for kids and young goats started to improve from the second sale of the summer season as adult mohair prices continued to rise. By the end of the last sale of the summer season, the average market indicator increased by 18% from the first sale to end at R268.06 p/kg. The winter season kicked off on a stable note with demand and prices steadily increasing throughout the season to close on R289.88, which is 36% higher than 2017 winter season. A comparison of the clip composition between 2017 and 2018 can be seen in figure 1 where not much changed wool2yarnglobal 2019
Figure 1 as kids increased from 18 to 19% and strong adults decreased from 30% to 29%. The buyersâ€™ share of the market, indicated in figure 2, remained fairly constant from 2017, with top makers taking up 74% of the market and the greasy buyers 26% of the market share. Because of the continuous improvement in prices throughout the 2018 season, the annual average market indicator for the year increased by 38% from 2017 and came in at R278.97 p/kg. The longer-term price trends are indicated in figure 3, where the constant growth throughout the year is evident. Italy became the new leader in mohair imports from South Africa as they purchased 4% more than in 2017. China and Taiwan figures reduced due to limited orders coming in the last couple of months of 2018 due to their economic conditions at the time. The United Kingdom showed positive intentions and moved into 3rd place in mohair imports from South Africa. (Figure 4)
The South African mohair is estimated at around 2.2-million kilograms for the 2018 year which is 8% down from 2017. This is mainly due to the extreme drought conditions experienced over most of the production area. Although some regions received some much needed rain, large parts are still feeling the droughtâ€™s grip tightening as 2019 progresses. In the early stages of 2019, the mohair prices remained fairly stable. At the last sale of the summer season (18 June) the market indicator closed 2.4% higher than the first sale of the season with an average market indicator coming in at R285.74 p/kg. 104 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Q &A with Michael Brosnahan, CEO of Samil by Victor Chesky
Samil is a leading mohair processor in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. Its processing mill in Port Elizabeth offers a comprehensive selection of tops, hand knitting yarns, weaving yarns and machine knitting yarns using Super Kid Mohair, Wool, Silks and other fibre combinations. Newly appointed CEO Michael Brosnahan spoke with me during my recent visit to Port Elizabeth about the Mohair industry, its challenges, and its outlook for the future.
espite all the challenges facing the Mohair Industry in South Africa we are extremely positive about the future. Mohair farmers are a hardy breed of individuals who are used to facing and overcoming adversity, including the ongoing drought of the last 3-4 years. There are indications however, that little by little the situation is improving. The South African mohair production for the last 2 seasons was 2.40 million kg in 2017, and 2.24 million kg in 2018.The prediction is that local mohair production will be in the region of 2.35 million kg this year, however nature is a fickle entity so ANYTHING could happen. There are of course other challenges – the first of which was PETA’s exposé on the South African mohair industry in May 2018. Though a negative attack, the positive spin-off is that it has helped the industry to fast track the implementation of the Mohair Sustainability requirements. The industry hasnow engaged
with theTextile Exchange in drawing up a Responsible Mohair Standard to be followed by all in the Industry. In regard to the Lesotho farmers’ conflict with their government over restrictive Mohair export conditions – they have won a High Court battle to have these restrictive conditions repealed. We are still though, uncertain as to when our traditional brokering and sourcing arrangements in Lesotho will revert to normal supply.
Q. South Africa grows 65% of global Mohair, and most of this in the Eastern Cape and processes in excess of 80% of the world’s mohair production. How does Samil sourceits Mohair and what impact does the drought have on supply?
A. Samil sources the bulk of its South African mohair through auctions held by the Wool & Mohair Brokers here in Port Elizabeth, which is also the route to sourcing Lesotho (Basuto) Mohair. Greasy mohair from other parts of the world are sourced through Samil’s Trading Division, also used for sourcing greasy mohair from our own farms and those of our strategic wool2yarnglobal 2019
Mohair livelihood but because they cannot stand by and watch their beloved animals die.
Q.What does Samilâ€™s product range include? A.Samil Combing currently produces in excess of 1.2 million kilos of mohair tops but we have the capacity to produce up to 1.5million kilos. We are only limited by availability. Most of our tops are sold on the International Market, Italy and China being our two biggest markets. We do however redirect between 15-20% (and this figure is increasing) of tops produced at Samil Combing to Samil Spinning for conversion into magnificent yarns which are also mainly sold Internationally. Our yarns range from worsted yarns for weaving & socks to fancy boucle and brushed yarns for both machine and hand knitting, in a count range from 1Nm to 11Nm, singles as well as multi-fold.
partners, both commercial ventures and our ventures with our previously disadvantaged farmers. Samil Natural Fibres has always had a very close relationship with the mohair farmers which has become closer since we created our Samil Farming Division in 2011. The ongoing drought affecting the industry has tested the resilience of the farming community and many farmers have resorted to supplemental feeding of their goats not only to secure their
Samilâ€™s spinning capacity is currently limited to approximately 180 tons / annum but is increasing with our ongoing investment in this division. Our spinning capacity is split is 65% fancy / 35% worsted. We built a state of the art dyehouse from the ground up in 2016 in order to satisfy our customers need for fast, efficient, dyeing of bespoke colours particularly for the hand knitting industry. Samil has a team of professionals with long years of experience in both the Mohair and Textile Industries. Today as traceability
Mohair has many unique properties not found in other fibres Its lustre is the natural sheen in the fibre caused by the reflection of light, helping dyed mohair resist fading, making it hard-wearing. Durable structure. It can be twisted or bent without damage, making it the most durable of all animal fibres. Its elasticity provides a stretch of some 30% over its length, springs back into shape, mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching or sagging during wear. It is almost non-flammable. Moisture retention qualities allow for moisture absorbency and breathability. It is also resistant to soiling.As dust does not come to rest on slippery fibres, ideal for woven fabrics Mohair tensile strength is stronger than steel. 106 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
becomes more and more important to the final consumer, Samil has a distinct point of difference - we are involved from goat farming through all conversion processes to the finished yarn.
Q. Can you tell us aboutSamilâ€™s involvement in local employment schemes
A. With the help and guidance from our founder
only mohair, Samil Spinning prides itself on spinning yarns to satisfy the artistic demands of the high fashion industry. We can produce yarns in a vast variety of blends as well as 100% mohair. Our main blends are of natural fibres, wool, silk, alpaca, bamboo usually in combinations with mohair. We can also produce blends with man-made fibres such as nylon and acrylic but the bulk of yarn production is focused on combinations of the noble fibres.
shareholder Mr Francis Patthey, we have engaged with previously disadvantaged individuals and groups, mainly in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa, with farming partnerships under the leadership of our Samil Farming Manager. Samil provides goats (kapaters) to the individuals and groups in rural communities, with the agreement that 50% of the income from hair sold is for Samil and 50% for themselves. Samil provides all services required in terms of dipping, shearing, vet requirements etc. This provides them an income and increases overall mohair production. We have a number of successful partnerships and have just employed a full-time assistant farming manager to focus solely on increasing the number of these projects.
Q. What new and creative products are in the pipeline
Q. IsMohair sustainability and animal welfare an integral
Q. Samil specialises in pure mohair, but what about blends with other fibres?
A. Although Samil Combing is dedicated to processing
for Samil this year?
A.We produce a yarn collection every year for launch at the Moda Baglioni in Florence, held at the same time as the Pitti Filati fair in June.This year we are launching a line of air textured yarns which are bulky and soft but extremely light, particularly for the hand knitting industry. Our own brand of hand knitting yarns â€“ African Expressions has been extremely well received in our home market of South Africa over the last 4 years and we now feel that the time is right to take it to the International market. We have already had some significant interest shown from Scandinavian countries and we are also currently exploring the Canadian market.
aspect of your business?
A. All Mohair producers and processors in South Africa are acutely aware of the requirements that worldwide consumers have placed on retailers to ensure that their products are traceable back to origin in order to ensure sustainability and ethicality of production. These demands were being addressed by the Industry as a whole, long before PETA carried out their exposĂŠ on the industry. We are all working together with Mohair South Africa who is liaising with the Textile Exchange to formulate an internationally recognised Responsible Mohair Standard. For more information - email@example.com +27 41 486 2430 - www.samil.co.za wool2yarnglobal 2019
Students give full flight to imagination and creativity Winning design
MOHAIR SOUTH AFRICA host the fifth China Mohair Fashion Design Competition, with 50 students participating from five of the most prestigious design schools in the country.
he 2019 competition had an open-ended theme, giving students the opportunity to give full flight to their imagination and creativity. Their outrageous and stunningly beautiful designs explored the many unique characteristics of mohair, and truly showed the versatility of the fibre.
“It was amazing to witness the impact of this competition first hand. We can never undervalue the opportunity to educate new designers on the properties and applications of mohair, specifically in the Chinese domestic market,” said Lindsay Humphreys, General Manager of Mohair South Africa. Students from Donghua University, Xi’an University of Engineering, Hubei Academy of Fine Arts and Sichuan Academy of Fine Arts participated in this year’s competition. However, top honours went to Leandi Mulder, from the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Mulder, a South African born designer, graduated at the Durban University of Technology before pursuing her port graduate studies at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. She drew much of her inspiration from her own country and the Karoo region where most of the world’s mohair is produced.Her designs also placed emphasis on
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Lindsay Humphreys General Manager of Mohair South Africa presents awards
sustainability and ecological awareness, combined with embroidery and knitting techniques to promote aesthetics. “The silhouettes of my design are simple, uncomplicated and comfortable. This allows the textiles and yarns of the garments to speak with the loudest voice,” Mulder said. “I really enjoyed the design process. I am extremely passionate about sustainable design and natural fibers, and was excited to share my point of view with the Chinese audience. “Winning this prize really took me by surprise! There is such incredible work that is currently emerging from China and I am constantly inspired by my peers. I would therefor just like to say thank you to everyone at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology for giving me this opportunity to study here. I am incredibly grateful and hope to continue to deliver my best work at this esteemed university.” The competition also reached a massive audience on social media. Mohair South Africa’s WeChat platform has close to 1-million followers, with more than 200 conversation taking place daily. This activity only intensified as voting opened for the competition’s Online Popularity Award. More than 240 000 people voted, showing the major support for
mohair within the Chinese fashion industry. The awards included Winner – Leandi Mulder from Beijing Institute; Best Market Potential – Beijing Institute; Best Color Application – Xian Polytech; Best Online Popularity – Xian Polytech; Best Creative Design –Sichuan Fine Arts; Best Craft Skill – Xian Polytech; Best Yarn utilisation – Donghua University. Participating universities include Donghua University (Shanghai); Beijing Institute of Fashion; Technology (Beijing); Xian Polytechnic University (Shanxi Province); Hubei Institute of Fine Arts (Hubei Province); Sichuan Fine Arts Institute (Chongqing Province). Yarn Sponsors included Topline, UPW, and Sunshine and the judges were Lindsay Humphreys – MSA; Xu Yuan –Topline; Steven Oo – Famous designer; Yao Qing Zhao – Director of Trend @ WGSN’; and Luo Zheng – Icicle (retailer). wool2yarnglobal 2019
Precision in dyeing begins in the lab
he most important factor in the dye process is colour consistency. ‘When quality and precision in colour is achieved at the laboratory stage all other processes will follow. It is imperative to get that right’, says Filippo Lanaro, Managing Director at Lawer dosing and dispensing systems in Italy. ‘Our systems provide accurate monitoring throughout the dyeing process. The repeatability of the recipes from one batch to another and data retention for any future production are fundamental for any textile company today.
robotized arm manages the bottle handling and the pipette placement as well as the cap positioning and automatic pipette rinsing. The bottles and their caps are automatically rinsed and dried into a specific washing/drying device.
‘As the cost of wool and other natural fibres increases illuminating mistakes can save time and money’, he adds.
The TD-MATIC is designed for powder micro weighing and dissolving. Its robotic beakersilo handles automatic recipe dissolving and rinsing and drying. It also does standard laboratory solution preparation. It also dispenses into laboratory dispenser mod or can dispense directly into sample/production machines.
The Lawer TD-LAB Laboratory dispenser system provides accurate dispensing and distribution of dye solutions and chemicals used in the laboratory. The volumetric measurement by means of a single-glass pipette ensures 0.01 gr accuracy. The high speed
‘Our systems are produced under green labelenvironmental credentials. Water waste and contamination is a major issue for this industry. Our systems use a small quantity of water, and even the water that is used is re-used to clean
Lawer fully automatic system
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Automatic dosing systems / powder dosing and dispensing / liquid dosing and dispensing / laboratory dosing and dispensing www.lawer.com
LAWER S.p.A - COSSATO (Biella)
Italy - firstname.lastname@example.org
...Since 1970 the Italian Quality for the true Accuracy...
Dyeing the pipes. So discharge of water into our treatment system is minimal ‘We build and install sustainable technology and are Green Label accredited. Protecting our eco-system is extremely important for all. In addition to the primary importance of the functionality of our systems we give priority to renewable components with higher performance, reduced environmental impact, and low energy consumption. The ACIMIT Green Label identifies the energy and environmental performances of textile machinery, for easy recognition and providing clear information, and we are very proud to have this accreditation’. Lawer has been supplying solutions for dyeing in the textile industry since 1970. The company employs over 100 people and last year it was voted as a top 60 company in Italy and the top company in the Biella region, where its head office and manufacturing plant is located. ‘European processors have been using our fully automatic systems for many years, complying with safety regulations and saving in labour costs. The Made in Italy brand is very important to us and to our customers’, Filippo Lanaro comments. Lawer has completed many installations around the global including
Sell or buy wool, tops, or yarn online 24 hours a day
Marzotto in the Czech Republic, Zegna Baruffa and Ermenegildo Zegna in Italy, Mundotextil in Porugal and others in Bulgaria, Turkey, Pakistan, France, UK, and the USA. We are also active in China, Bangladesh, and India. Demand for healthy and safe working environments, where contamination and product handling are minimized, are essential in today’s workplaces around the world. ‘We provide personalised solutions for our customers. We can analyze, identify, and translate client needs into a personalized project, in a short time from manufacture to installation. Our qualified technicians operate an on-line remote assistance service, to optimize interventions and reduce costs. For more information about these systems please contact Filippo Lanaro at email@example.com
Check this out at www.woolbuy.net
This website is FREE to buyers and sellers Buy and sell wool worldwide 24 hours a day, seven days a week!
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RWS & Organic Argentine wool bound for Europe While there is no increase in wool production out of Argentina, demand for organic wool is growing. Although not available in big quantities, supply is growing to reflect this demand. ‘Our Patagonian wool continues to be a favorite with top makers internationally’, says Claudio Ulrich Managing Director of Lempriere Argentina. ‘Argentine wool is snow white in colour, a very low CVH and VM. Patagonia is the home of some of the best quality wool in Argentina, it is contamination free, and sheep are Non Mulesed’.
empriere Argentina has been increasing its top exports to Europe. In the last season it exported more than 1 million tons of tops. Lempriere Argentina’s core business has been greasy wool exports and has the capacity to export some 40% of all greasy wool out of Argentina each year. ‘Currently it is tops, and organic non mulesed tops, in particular, that are an expanding business for Lempriere Argentina. ‘We work under Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) guidelines regarding the certification of our wool and its origin. RWS certified wool ensures that sheep are treated with respect and ensures best practices in the management and protection of the land. Through the processing stages, wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked. ‘Any topmaker that requires RWS certification should talk to us in Argentina’, says Mariano Guerra Lempriere senior wool buyer and trader.
micron’. Most woolgrowers in Argentina shear sheep once a year. Wool is available in September through to December. ‘The best wools are grown in Patagonia, with a very short wool growing season, so the best wools sell out quickly. Our customers are encouraged to place their orders early in the season’, says Claudio Ulrich. Lempriere Argentina stocks most wools and supplies to customers all year around. ‘If you are a topmaker and you are looking for a good quality, competitively prices wool for your processing, with or without RWS certification, in greasy form or as wooltops you should talk to us in Argentina’. For more information about buying wool from Lempriere Argentina please contact Claudio Ulrich at E: firstname.lastname@example.org or Mariano Guerra at E: email@example.com
‘Our testing laboratory at our warehouse where all wool is collected ensures that every bale is re-sorted and tested before export’, says Mariano Guerra. ‘We have access to the best wool, produced in the most ethical environment. Our company has well established relationships with wool growers. We have been buying wool from the same farmers for decades. Wool is mainly sourced from Patagonia Merino range of 19 - 21 microns and crossbred wools of 24 – 29
Left to right: Mariano Guerra, Tony McKenna (CEO of Lempriere Group) and Claudio Ulrich
YEARS ON by: Victor Chesky
hen Rod Franklyn established Techwool Trading in 1983, little could he have imagined that the company would grow into Australia’s leading greasy wool export company. It was also one of the first companies to achieve the government’s Australian Trusted Trader status. This status recognises Techwool Trading as an export company with excellent credentials, compliant export practices and a secure supply chain. The company remains family owned and operated. I asked Rod Franklyn and Evan Croake, export trading manager, to talk about current trading conditions and how the company grew to claim its position as a leading wool export company. ‘In the early days of Australian wool trade weforged strong and long-lasting relationships with mills and processors around the world including China. We strongly encouraged mutual knowledge of Australian wool and its many applications’, Rod Franklyn said. ‘Even today, after so many years a good number of these original customers still trade with us’.
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‘In some ways the market has changed over the years. Today traceability is more important to spinners and weavers around the world’, says Rod Franklyn. ‘Environmental credentials of wool are at centre stage for many fashion brands. ‘Our strong direct buying ability ensures that we can deliver fully traceable wool whilst ticking the boxes for non-mulesed, ethically produced premium wool’. Techwool exports all Australian wool types from 14 - 38 microns. It buys direct from farms and at all auction centres in Australia and purchases a significant percentage of the Australian wool clip each week. ‘We are flexible and move with fluctuations in the market. Our company offers all Australian wool types and blends with a minimum of fuss. Even in tough conditions, such as the well-publicised drop in Australian wool production figures for 2018, the trading team shipped in excess of 250,000 bales to various countries throughout the year’. ‘Despite the impact of the drought and the ups and downs in world market demand, we make sure that Techwool Trading consistently offers greasy wool in a diversity of wool types and microns. We regularly buy 15.5 to 36 micron lots during each auction’, says Rod Franklyn. Evan Croake comments that ‘topmakers realise that with today’s high wool prices, making mistakes when purchasing greasy wool can be very costly. Our team at Techwool strive to ensure that client needs are met “beyond expectation” both in specification and delivery time. Every lot we source, whether direct from farm or at auction is physically inspected by hand, graded and valued according to our clients’ orders. At the end of the day, we take pride in what we deliver and make it our business to match the manufacturers’ needs,’ he said. For more information please go to the Techwool Trading website www.techwool.com.au or contact Evan Croake, Export Trading Manager at firstname.lastname@example.org
THE WOOL EXPERIENCE
• Australia’s single largest processing plant • Wool buyers throughout Australia • Offering the highest quality Australian wool • Forward and prompt efficient shipment • Servicing wool users from all corners of the globe • Guaranteed customer satisfaction
38 Doherty’s Road, Laverton North, Australia 3026 • Email: email@example.com • Tel: +61 (3) 9369 0499 • Fax: +61 (3) 9369 0599 • www.vwp.com.au
United Wool Company
an Australian Trusted Trader
nited Wool is one of the very few wool export companies to receive the Australian Trusted Trader (ATT) accreditation from the Australian government. ATT recognises United Wool as a top tier exporter with transparent and completely reliable systems relating to all aspects of its operation from procurement through to shipment, documentation, customs clearance and ultimate delivery. ATT has Mutual Recognition Arrangements with countries including China, European Union, Korea, and Japan. ‘The ATT logo is also included on our United Wool shipping documentation where it identifies imports for fast-tracking through customs’, says Matthew Hand Managing Director at United Wool Co in Melbourne, and current President of the Australian Council of Wool Exporters and Processors (ACWEP). ‘This recognition fits well with our overall objective to deliver to our customers the wool that fits into their production needs, achieving high levels of product performance at competitive price levels, and on time’, says Matt Hand. United Wool was set up six years ago by Matthew Hand, Nigel Rendell, and Andrew Jackson. United Wool supplies greasy wool, scoured wool, open tops, and tops of all origin. It supplies well-known brands throughout Europe, Japan, New Zealand, and China. The company sources its wool direct from farm, through private buying networks, and buys at auction. With a strong presence in all wool growing regions, United Wool Co supplies wool from Australia, New Zealand, South America, and South Africa.
Left to right: Matt Hand, Andrew Jackson and Nigel Rendell
Nigel Rendell comments that ‘we work directly with manufacturers and link them to a sometimes single source farm for their wool needs. This streamlines supply and provides clear traceability, and non-mulesing certification when sought by our customers’. ‘We can provide certainty to manufacturers regarding the sourcing of particular types of single origin wools for specific and individual orders. Some of our customers find this approach, and buying wool via long term and indexed contracts reduces exposure to price fluctuations. We work throughout the global supply chain from export to garment manufacturers and retail. Our ultimate aim is to form a strong understanding of each of our clients’ needs, work closely with them and achieve the result they need’. ‘Drought conditions in Australia affect quality and quantity of wool available so it is even more important to have the reach to source the right wools. Our team has combined experience and knowledge over three generations in wool producing, buying, processing, and export experience’, says Matt Hand. ‘We keep expanding our business. Paul Ferronato has recently joined our team, bringing great experience and broadening our skill base. Paul is a well-known and well-respected wool buyer, processor and trader with over 23 years experience working for the largest wool carbonising company in Australia’. ‘We are making an impact’, says Matt Hand. ‘We are proud to be one of the top 10 wool export companies in Australia, after a relatively short period of trading, and we attribute this to our very strong relationships and our willingness to deliver a uniquely structured service.’ Matt Hand can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org wool2yarnglobal 2019
✓ Auction buying ✓ Merino Fleece and Crossbred Fleece ✓ Single source wools direct from growers ✓ Scoured, carbonised wool, open tops and tops ✓ Sourcing direct from farmer and private buying networks ✓ Sourcing ethically produced wools - sustainable and traceable ✓ Sourcing wools from South Africa, South America, New Zealand and Australia
Gate 4, 5 – 29 Frederick Road,Tottenham Victoria, 3012, Australia Tel: +61 3 9315 3057 • Fax:+ 61 3 9315 3063 • Email: email@example.com
one-stop-shop service offered for carbonised wool
ourcing the right wool, carbonising it, and delivering it - all offered as one service by Victoria Wool Processors (VWP). VWP is one of only a few companies in Australia that provides a one-stop-shop service. ‘We have wool buyers in all Australian regions and work directly with spinners. When we receive an order from a customer, we source the wool to customer specification, carbonise it, and deliver it to anywhere in the world’, says David Ritchie of Victoria Wool Processors. ‘And with wool in tight supply due to the ongoing drought here in Australia we source wool for customers that are often difficult to obtain, particularly as each season comes to an end’. ‘The impact of the drought has also affected the yield for Australian wool, so it makes better commercial sense to carbonise wool in Australia. Our carbonised wool is competitively priced, and eliminating extra transportation costs associated with greasy wool, and the extra processing and environmental compliance costs of it means that importing our carbonised wool has its advantages’, he says. VWP’s core business is carbonising Australian wool and this has been its focus for over 30 years. It exports this processed wool worldwide with a particular emphasis on markets in Europe and Asia, particularly in Korea and Japan. ‘We provide a full commission carbonising service tailored to the needs of each customer. Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest wool. Our product is known for its cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says David Ritchie. As environmental credentials and certifications
become more important, particularly for European yarn and fabric manufacturers VWP can provide full traceability and non-mulesing certification when required. ‘All of our wools are AWTA Certified as Australian wool processed in Australia, ‘ he says. ‘When our customers receive the specific wool that they need, carbonised by us, they receive wool that is clean, processed with the environment in mind, and ready to use’, he says. ‘Most importantly our customers can be confident that they will receive 100% Australian wool that has not been blended with inferior types from other countries’. Australian quarantine laws prevent the importing of foreign wools onto its shores. VWP can source a varied range of types to suit the requirements of spinners and weavers, from lambs to full fleece merino crossbreds and downs wool. ‘We know what type of wool will process better on their machinery, we know what is available and what is in short supply. We employ Chinese, Korean, Italian, Spanish and Vietnamese speakers, making communication easy for our customers in any part of the world’. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Endeavour wool moves ahead
Stuart Greenshields (left) and Josh Lamb
ool prices can fluctuate considerably from auction to auction depending on demand and the quality of wool on offer. Josh Lamb from Endeavour Wool Export (EWE) comments that ‘some regions in Australia have been unaffected by drought and continue to produce excellent wools. However competition for these wools is strong and quantity is limited. Understanding these sometimes volatile trading conditions and being able to guide our customers through the ups and downs in the market is a very important part of our day to day business’.
to our customers and our buyers are well placed to facilitate these requirements ‘, he says. ‘We forward sell, helping clients reduce risks in price fluctuations and supply irregularities. This option enhances our track record when it comes to the delivery of uniform orders that will process consistently time after time.
Endeavour Wool Export was established by Josh Lamb, Stuart Greenshields, and Warwick Eddington only two years ago and is already recognised as a top 10 wool export company. ‘Our biggest export market is China, followed by Europe and Japan. We understand the types of wool most suitable for our clients wherever they may be and provide uniform deliveries of wool that will process consistently again and again’, says Stuart Greenshields of Endeavour Wools Sydney.
‘As our name suggests we Endeavour to provide our customers with the best quality wool for the best price, with personal service, and timely delivery. This is our goal and we welcome calls from companies that are interested in tapping into our buying framework in Australia’, Stuart Greenshields concludes.
‘Experience in sourcing appropriate wool types become increasingly important as traceability, non-mulesing, and environmental credentials take centre stage,’ he says. ‘We are aware that these issues are important
For more information please contact Josh Lamb or Stuart Greenshields at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Red Sun exports tops to Europe ‘Our long term view continues to be a positive one’, says Mr YANG Shao Xiao, Chairman at Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co. ‘Irrespective of the current trade difficulties with the USA, China will continue to be the world’s biggest manufacturing hub for early wool processing. We have been manufacturing wool top for more than 22 years. The latest investment we have made in our new plant is proof of our positive outlook and we aim to continue to be one of the best and one of the largest topmakers in China. We are focused on delivering better tops and services to our customers in Europe, yet we remain competitively priced’. Red Sun’s newest mill is situated in a Free Trade Zone in Zhejiang to produce tops exclusively for export. Red Sun is the second biggest topmaker in China operating three mills with a production capacity of 22,000 tons per year. Over 30% of its total production is for export. The company can supply tops of various specifications ranging from 15.5 to 32.0 microns including non-mulesing wool tops, and open tops, broken tops, sliver tops, Superwash & Soft Luster tops, Basolan tops,
Mr YANG Shao Xiao
mohair tops, Lincoln tops, and more, suitable for high-class worsted, semi-worsted and woolen textiles manufacturers. It also supplies noils and Lanolin all year around. It also offers commission processing. ‘Our new mill provides clear benefits to our international customers and will increase our competitiveness. All greasy wool that we import for our production into this Free Trade Zone attracts zero customs duty and there is no restriction in the quantity of wool we import. We will be 5% more competitive than before’, says Managing Director YANG Shao Wei. ‘Our customers in Europe can now buy a wider variety of wool tops from us and do not need to source from anywhere else. It is more economical and more convenient, and our customers find it more practical than shopping around. ‘We lead the way in China when it comes
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to environmental credentials and operate the most advanced water treatment plant in China. We are ISO 9001 Quality Management System Certified and ISO14000 Environment Management Certified. A sustainable future is a high priority for us’, he comments. ‘We produce excellent tops with an eye to environmental considerations. We are among the world’s best in energy saving, environmental protection, and production efficiency.’
YANG Shao Wei and latest NSC combs
‘For spinners and weavers that require non-mulesed certification, we can provide this through AWTA. Even when we process orders for tops that are made from up to 200 different lots AWTA can provide us with one certification,’ Mr Yang comments. ‘Our three mills provide great flexibility in our supply and we welcome contact with companies that are interested in doing business with us. Our investment in advanced machinery, together with a skilled and creative management team, with unmatched passion
for wool, enables us to offer the most suitable wool to our customers’, says Mr Yang. For further information about the variety of products available from Red Sun please contact Vivian Huang at email@example.com or Nick Chen at firstname.lastname@example.org www.redsunwool.com wool2yarnglobal 2019
Nanjing Wool Market 2019-2020 and textile companies from all over China’, says Madam Yang NWM Chairwoman. ‘We welcome international delegates to our annual conference. It is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies. Today we welcome around 500 delegates and over 100 of these are international delegates.’
Nanjing Wool Market team
ot withstanding the tensions in international trade relations China continues to play a central role in the international wool and textile industry. Like many other countries China faces a number of challenges, including environmental issues and rising labour and commodity costs. The wool industry in China is addressing these issues and is maintaining its position as the biggest buyer of wool from all major wool producing countries. The Nanjing Wool Market (NWM) Conference, held in September each year, is an excellent opportunity for all international delegates to meet with China’s wool buyers and processors, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies to promote their products and services. As well as domestic Chinese industry issues the conference includes presentations and participation from industry leaders worldwide. Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry, its relationship to the industry internationally, and its future plans. ‘Delegates can learn about our textile industry plans and meet with all major wool
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The Nanjing Wool Market (NWM) plays an essential role in facilitating links between the wool industry in China and the international market. NWM is often the first point of contact for many offshore companies seeking to sell their wool into China. It provides advice and assistance in doing business in China. NWM membership includes woolgrower cooperatives, traders, primary processors, and spinners of wool, and allied fibres all over China. Foreign membership can also be obtained. ‘Foreign companies planning to establish new trade relationships or planning to set up joint ventures with companies in China are welcome to consult us at NWM or China Wool Textile Association (CWTA)’, says General Manager Mr Jian Chen. We are always pleased to assist any company that wishes to do business with our members. We work closely with industry groups including AWI, AWEX, AWTA, NZ Wool Interests, Cape Wools and others’. NWM also chairs the Joint China Australia Wool Working Group and Joint New Zealand China Wool Working Group. It is involved in arbitration and trade dispute settlements, and offers financial services including Bills of Exchange and Letters of Credit. Companies from outside China interested in attending the next conference are invited to register their interest by contacting Nanjing Wool Market at email@example.com
it’s not easy to be green
New Zealand Woolscouring Limited
For more information please contact Tony Cunningham - firstname.lastname@example.org www.nzwoolscouring.com • Tel: +64 6 834 1421 • Fax: +64 6 835 1237
NZ WOOL GREASE
When scoured wool makes better commercial sense ‘It makes better commercial sense for topmakers around the world to import their wool in scoured rather than greasy form’, according to Nigel Hales CEO New Zealand Woolscouring Limited (formerly Cavalier Woolscourers).
he cost of scouring in New Zealand is very competitive and on par or even cheaper than scouring in Asia.
‘New Zealand wool scoured by us is 100% NZ wool and scoured to the highest standards available. The wool will arrive to customer specification and ready for use, saving time on unnecessary delay. Topmakers prefer to avoid disruption to their manufacturing timetable. They rely on quality and certainty and we can deliver this with every order’. Greasy wool transportation is also more expensive than scoured wool by weight.
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Savings are achieved in energy consumption, waste disposal, and water management when scoured at origin. Environmental compliance laws are stricter and more rigorously enforced in China today and processing costs have increased considerably’, he says. New Zealand Woolscouring is accredited with Responsible Wool Standard and GOTS. ‘These ensure that the wool comes from the best New Zealand farms and from sheep that have been treated responsibly. This is an external certification, and is independently audited. This international certification is something that is highly sought after and well regarded internationally’ he says.
New Zealand ‘New Zealand has the cleanest brightest scoured wool on the planet, and with the lowest levels of fibre residue’, says Nigel Hales. ‘We have the skills and machinery to provide a one-stop-shop service nd each customer receives a tailor made wool processing service. We run highly developed and fine-tuned ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards.’ After scouring, every bale is tested for moisture content, residual grease, colour and vegetable matter. New Zealand Woolscouring is an approved core testing supplier with both SGS New Zealand and the New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA). New Zealand Woolscouring Limited scouring plants operates computer controlled greasy blending systems. These systems include multiple greasy wool openers which individually cope for each style and length of wool. These enable the company to reduce the effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%. We have the skills and machinery to provide a one-stop-shop service and are as competitive in price as any scourer in China or anywhere else in Asia’, says Nigel Hales. ‘Individual blending orders are tailored for each customer and remain confidential. We do not trade wool. We are a stand-alone commission wool scourer and therefore have no conflict of interest with any customers’. The company has processes to detect contaminants throughout the scouring process; visual checks by experienced technicians, and automated scanning and detection equipment such as metal detectors. ‘Our processing achieves a maximum yield with world-leading technology and pre-scour treatment results in less entanglement of finished product, less felting and consequently a higher percentage of product suitable for market’. ‘We may have changed our name, but we have not changed its ethos. We offer our customers the highest level of environmental accreditation and the best options for scouring New Zealand wool in the world’, he concludes.
Brian drinking water from the onsite well. This is the same water used to wash the wool. Brian is the oldest serving staff member with more than 45 years experience on the scour. He is as fit today as he was when he was 15, and credits this to the clean mineral rich water that he drinks each day
Louise Winhall trains staff to operate new state of the art Near Infra-Red Analyser
Gary is a woolgrease plant specialist, experienced in every aspect of woolscouring
Crossbred to finest merino from NZ
hina continues to be the dominant buyer of New Zealand wool, taking over 46% last season. But the Chinese textile industry faces its own head winds with US China trade wars, environmental regulations, and slower consumer spending. ‘At the beginning of 2019 we did see a slight lift in demand from China, particularly for carpet grades, but buying remains patchy as Chinese wool processors deal with their own domestic issues’, says Peter Christensen company director at Fuhrmann New Zealand. ‘The stock pile of wool that accumulated in 2017 has all but gone. So, it is probably a very good time to buy New Zealand wool as prices have been at historic low levels’. Fuhrmann New Zealand is based in Christchurch and offers all types of New
Left to right: Phil Deacon, Peter Christensen, and Steven Finnie
Zealand wool including merino, greasy, scoured, and slipe wool and carding and lambs’ wool. ‘In today’s competitive and sometimes volatile market, wool buyers around the world need a wool supplier that is large enough to source the right wool, but provide a personal and competent service. We are one of the biggest buyers of wool at auctions in New Zealand and can offer a variety of wool types at competitive prices’. ‘A most important advantages we offer our customers is consistency of supply’, says Steven Finnie company director. ‘We deliver to specification and our customers know that we will be here tomorrow, come rain or shine’! Europe is the second largest market for Fuhrmann, followed by India and then Eastern Europe. ‘We are familiar with requirements of customers in both Eastern and Western Europe. Today many East European governments are reviving their textile industries and will need better quality wool. Customers that receive our scoured wool reorder time after time’, comments Steve Finnie. ‘Wool scoured in New Zealand is not blended with wool from any other country; it is 100% New Zealand wool. And of course, processing waste stays in New Zealand and is not a cost or pollutant problem to the buyer’. ‘Our emphasis has always been on quality’, Peter Christiansen says. ‘And this is why we personally appraise every lot of wool prior to buying, to ensure customer orders are filled to specification. Meeting the changing requirements of our customers is fundamental to our service to customers worldwide’.
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F U H R M AN N Z N
WHAT DOES THE RED BAND MEAN? COMPLIANCE • CONSISTENCY REPEATABILITY • TRACEABILITY
Virgin New Zealand wool, scoured to the highest standards, delivered on time, every time, in the quantity you asked for.
New Zealand Wool Services International Limited 30 Sir William Pickering Drive, PO Box 79 252 Christchurch 8446, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 357 8700 • Fax: +64 3 357 8720 • Email: email@example.com
NZSWI India: “Kiwi Hutt” C1530 Sushant Lok-I, Guragon 122002 India Tel: +91 124 6460645 • Fax: +91 124 4105479 • T.C. Bilandani - CEO: +91 981001 7995 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Ruzgarlibace Mah. Acarlar Is Merkezi, F Blok Kat: 7 D 17 81640 Kavacik, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90 216 425 31 33 (Pbx) • Fax: 90 216 322 28 79 • Email: email@example.com
Recognising the RED BAND ‘Market conditions have been quite challenging. However we have seen some improvement in demand, particularly from China for carpet wool types. New Zealand crossbred wools are very competitively priced. In actual fact, probably the lowest they have been for many years. So, there has never been a better time to buy New Zealand wool’, says John Dawson CEO at Wool Services International (WSI) and current chairman of the National Council of Wool Interests in New Zealand.
SI is a major exporter of New Zealand wool, particularly for carpets types. ‘We keep standards high, and stand by the quality of wool we supply’, says John Dawson. The company’s biggest export market is China, followed by Europe, India, and UK. ‘Spinners of New Zealand wool around the world require reliable and consistent supply of wool and we supply this under our Purelana™ wool brand. It is easily recognised by the red band wrapped around the wool bale, distinguishing it from John Dawson
other wool imports. ‘This is a guarantee that each bale, in each delivery is 100% New Zealand wool and will perform consistently through the spinning process’, says John Dawson. ‘We use only top quality wool grown in New Zealand for our Purelana™ brand. We process this wool to the highest environmental standards. It is unmatched in its consistency, colour, strength and purity. Our Purelana™ Red Band wool set the benchmark for quality around the world’, he says. Purelana™ wool is scoured in the most modern wool scouring facilities where strict environmental care is enforced. Organic waste is then used to manufacture quality compost products. WSI works to ISO 9001 and 14001 standards and has Eco Labelling, GOTS, and REACH Certification. The textile industry in India is a big importer of New Zealand scoured and greasy wool. TC Bilandani manager of WSI in Delhi says ‘we have a long and well established relationship with spinners and weavers in India and have been supplying them with New Zealand wool for over two decades’. Manish Arora at Arora Textiles in Rajasthan says ‘we receive excellent quality wool and service from WSI. Over the last 20 years we have developed a relationship that is closer than just a business arrangement’. Iftekhar Ahmad Managing Director at Art Palace Export further comments, ‘WSI and TC Bilandani has been our sole supplier of New
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New Zealand Zealand wool for more than two decades. We have maintained this relationship because of the quality of wool they send us, and because of the timely shipments we receive’. Available in a range of wool types to meet industrial demands for tufted carpets or Axminster carpets every Purelana™ shipment is covered by an extensive warranty. Detailed testing certification includes length and colour measurements and a guaranteed shipment of 100% pure New Zealand wool. ‘Our seamless production system ensures that Purelana™ wool can be traced from the sheep’s back, through the scouring process, direct to the manufacturer - and beyond if necessary’, says John Dawson. WSI sources its wool from private merchants, traditional auction, and direct from farms. Environmental compliance and traceability are very important issues for our customers in Europe and around the world. Our buying
network provides us the best opportunity to obtain the best and most appropriate wool types and ensure that it is processed to customer specification’, he says. ‘Sheep in New Zealand are not mulesed and we can provide non mulesed certification to customers if required’.
TC Bilandani and his son Dhiraj at WSI’s India office
Answering the Call for Integrity and establish the most cost effective supply chain route to market. We also work with combing mills who commission process our Merino wools and if required can apply TEC treatment to the finished tops before we supply it to the spinner of choice’. Bloch & Behrens have a number of brand partners using Merino, Halfbred and Crossbred wool for apparel, blankets, carpet, rugs, upholstery, bedding, hand knitting yarn and many other products.
Bloch & Behrens - Palle Petersen and Dave Hudson inspecting Wool Integrity bales prior to export.
n a world where consumers need to know more about the back story behind the products they buy, Bloch & Behrens launched “Wool Integrity NZ™” in 2015 and now partners with many users of New Zealand wool around the world.
‘The brand is based on visibility and transparency around important aspects such as animal welfare, wool quality, environmental sustainability and land management practices. It provides a transparent supply chain from Farm to Market’, says Palle Petersen General Manager of Bloch & Behrens NZ. Merino, Halfbred and Crossbred Wool from New Zealand is regarded as the best in the world. ‘Through our parent company PGG Wrightson, we have direct relationships with growers who take pride in what they produce and how they treat the animals and land they live on. All Wool Integrity wool is guaranteed to be from non-mulesed sheep’. ‘We are in a position to provide manufacturers with guarantees about the wool that they source from us. It tells the story of where the wool came from and under what conditions it has been grown. In many cases our international customers will get to know the farmers personally. ‘We are happy to work with niche manufacturers of Merino garments and link them with the most suitable farms 134 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Bloch & Behrens exports to more than 30 countries around the world. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of PGG Wrightson, the biggest wool brokering company in New Zealand, with direct access to wool throughout the country, not only buying wool at the auction, but also through direct contracts with farmers, providing price certainty for them and international customers alike. ‘Well over a thousand farmers across New Zealand are already signed up to the Wool Integrity NZ™ program’, he says. ‘It monitors wool at every stage of its journey from farm to market and offers full traceability of each lot to its originating farm’. Wool in this program can be directly sourced as greasy, scoured or combed wool. Wool is scoured using only environmentally friendly detergents. ‘To make the Wool Integrity NZ™ brand available to carpet manufacturers and weavers who don’t have their own inhouse spinning capabilities, we are pleased to have some below mentioned leading spinners as Wool Integrity brand partners, who can supply Wool Integrity NZ™compliant yarn.’
‘Finished products made from Wool Integrity NZ™ branded wool are eligible to carry the logo. ‘This logo can sit alongside a manufacturer’s brand or the wool can just provide the added-value comfort and endorsement of a products integrity’, says Palle Petersen.
A Journey of Genuine Wool Integrity. Does integrity matter to you? Bloch & Behrens, through New Zealand’s principal wool broker PGG Wrightson Wool have been delivering consistent quality wool to the world for generations. Through our Wool Integrity™ Programme we can provide full transparency throughout the entire wool supply chain and offer assurances that wool has been ethically grown and followed a path of genuine integrity from farm to market. Follow the journey at www.woolintegrity.com
Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd General Manager: Palle Petersen PO Box 9024, Tower Junction, Christchurch 8149, New Zealand P +64 3 343 9100 E firstname.lastname@example.org Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd – Europe European Manager: Hans Bering Langs Hegnet 86, 2800 Lyngby, Denmark P +45 20 40 74 72 E email@example.com
Coarse Wool • Merino Wool • Greasy • Scoured • Combed Wooltops www.pggwrightsonwool.co.nz
Creating best practice continuing to raise standards’, he continues. ‘We can provide to meet the EU Ecolabel and the Textile Exchange’s Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) as part of our commitment to excellence in land management, full transparency, and integrity at every stage, from the farm to thefinished product. ‘At WoNZ we work closely with our value chain partners to provide verification of integrity of our fibre, from farm right through to finished textiles with all our manufacturing and retail partners. The very first products using our RWS wool has beenreleased by Marks & Spencer as a range of menswear products.The very first farmer to grow RWS wool for M&S now wears hisown wool!’, he says.
Rosstan Mazey - WoNZ logo clearly marked on each wool bale
t is hard to recall a time when New Zealand wool was so competitively priced. Yet as a brand it continues to be recognised by carpet and upholstery manufacturers as the best fibre. New Zealand wool represents quality and consumers increasingly see wool as a sustainable fibre for any type of application including floor coverings, upholstery, bedding and garments. Wools of New Zealand (WoNZ) is 100% owned by over 700 New Zealand wool growers and exports over 15 million kgs of wool between 28 - 40 microns each year. ‘Through educationwe also assist wool growers to improve animal welfare and land management practises’, says Rosstan Mazeyof Wools of New Zealand in Christchurch. ‘We believe in being transparent and traceable at all times and we invest in ongoing research to create a smarter fibre with a reduced environmental impact, and not losing sight of 136 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Wools of New Zealand invests significantly in innovation and new technologies to differentiate its New Zealand wool from wools of other origins. Its Glacial XT project, a scour process that significantly enhances the ‘whiteness’ and ‘brightness’ of wool, differentiates Wools of New Zealand fibre from other New Zealand companies and processes is one such innovative project(see separate article). Other developments include Oritain scientific traceability and Laneve™ wool. Oritain uses advanced isotype technology to identify the country of origin of any wool fibre. It achieves this by comparing a fibre’s unique‘fingerprint’ against samples collected. ‘Products crafted using our Laneve™ wool are 100% natural with all wool traceable back to the farmers who grow it. Wool growing partners that join this Integrity Programme are audited for land management, animal welfare, social responsibility and transparency’, he says. ‘Our wool is primarily used in wool carpets so it seems natural that we should also be involved in recycling carpets at the end of their life. Crumbwool carpet underlay is an exciting green innovation we have developed with Anglo Recycling in the UK, which turns unwanted offcuts from wool carpets into underlay. This new underlay possesses great insulation and cushioning properties.We donate proceeds of this initiative to the Woodland Trustas a way of illustrating our brand’s purpose to be ethical and have a positive impact both socially and environmentally,’, he continues. ‘Products containing wool sourced directly from Wools of New Zealand can carry the Wools of New Zealand brand in to the market’, says Mazey. ‘Yarn from a partner spinner using our grower’s wool qualifies for use of the Wools of New Zealand brand. ‘We directly link New Zealand wool growers throughout the supply chain with the Wools of New Zealand brand that is so well recognised by retail consumer globally.’ Rosstan Mazey can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
Website Developments from NZWTA MyWTA
2019/2020 NZWTA Ltd Wool Trade Diary
New Zealand Wool Testing Authority’s (NZWTA) ‘MyWTA’ internet portal was originally set up to allow NZ customer access to their test results 24 hours a day, 7 days a week’, says Duane Knowles, Chief Executive at NZWTA. ‘The portal includes functionality designed to make it easier to see test results as they become available, print and download certificates and invoices, initiate check-tests and re-issue certificates can all be done in real time from anywhere that has internet access.’ The latest functionality of the MyWTA portal allows mills that have purchased New Zealand wool to access and download the test results into their own MyWTA database. Users need to be registered with MyWTA to ensure secure access. Mills that are interested in this feature can contact email@example.com for further information and access.
Wool Testing Videos NZWTA has added a series of videos covering sampling, sample preparation, and testing procedures on their website. These videos are designed to provide a better understanding of the procedures used in sampling and testing wool. The videos can be found at https://www.nzwta.co.nz/wool-testing/video-tour/
Certificate Verification Certificate verification has been a popular service offered through the NZWTA website. Purchasers of wool can verify the certificates they have been sent by fax or email, to ensure they are genuine certificates. This process can be accessed on the website by entering the test number and the verification code from the copy of the certificate.
For more information please visit www.nzwta.co.nz
ew Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA) has published a 2019/2020 Trade Diary that includes a comprehensive list of NZ industry contacts to assist local and international communications; trends in testing statistics of New Zealand wool and dates and rostered volumes of national wool auctions. To receive a free copy please contact NZWTA on firstname.lastname@example.org
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Canadian Wool – quality option economical solution Canadian clip falls mostly between 22-26 micron’.
Eric Bjergso (fourth from the left) with CCWG wool grading team
‘Higher wool prices in Australia, South Africa and New Zealand have created an opportunity for processors to buy Canadian wool as a viable alternative, says Eric Bjergso, General Manager at CCWG. ‘Processors that create blends using Canadian wool see it as a quality option and economical solution to maintaining production standards. Sheep are not mulesed in Canada’. It has been one hundred and one years since Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers Limited (CCWG) was formed in 1918 to collect and grade wool.The co-operative grades and markets close to 1.5 million kilos of raw wool each year, in each of the three general grades of wool, (fine, medium and coarse). Wool volume handled by CCWG increased by almost 10% in 2018 compared to the previous year. Canadian wool is known for its highly elastic and soft handle characteristics that are recognized by manufactures as an advantage, particularly for shape retention. ‘The Canadian clip is comparatively small and mainly ranges from 22–35 microns with the bulk of production being between 29–34 microns. The finer end of the
Most Canadian wool is being blended with wools from other origins and international customers remain interested in buying Canadian wool’, says Eric Bjergso. ‘Of course, our wools can also be used on their own for a variety of products that favour coarser wool types. Some of the most popular breeds of sheep in Canada include the Suffolk, Cheviot, Dorset, Rideau Arcott, Rambouillet and Targhee. Sheep and lamb numbers in Canada have slowly increased by 3.6% the past two years’. Only 10% of Canada’s production is consumed domestically and the remaining 90% is exported to the United States, China, India, Czech Republic, Egypt and Bulgaria. The wool is weighed on arrival, graded and core tested. The raw wool is inspected by hand and classified by average diameter and length of the fibre, colour, lustre and crimp (tight, natural wave). ‘Objective measurement testing for all graded Canadian wool is performed by Yocum McColl Wool Testing Lab in Denver, Colorado. Customers know they are receiving a well prepared and better-quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product’, comments Eric Bjergso.
Mixed results for German wool but coarser and middle microns provided a greater challenge’, he says. ‘There seems to be a lot of cheap wool in Europe at present’. ‘Notwithstanding the volatility of the market at present customers at retail still favour natural fibres’, he says. And as crossbred wools are particularly inexpensive he sees manufacturers using it more and more. He also believes that a downturn in demand for crossbred wools indicates just how much processing over capacity there is in the market at present. ‘Some processors are not prepared for the current uncertainty created by international tariffs and lack of demand and will struggle’, he comments.
ermany has a long history in sheep farming and manufacturing of woollen products. ‘Germany produces excellent finer quality wool in particular from the East and South of the country where 3000 - 4000 tons of wool are produced each year. About 70% of this is at the finer end’, says John Semmelhaak of Friedrich Sturm the biggest exporter of wool from Germany. ‘In the North and West the wool is excellent white, longer and coarser. German wool is very consistent in quality and is low VM, length and colour. ‘Last season was a mixed bag for German wools. Like any other market for crossbred wools - finer microns did well and sold quickly
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John Semmelhaak says that ‘USA China trade issues are reaching a stage where it is more about who losses and who wins rather than economic fundamentals. It is personal, cultural, and less about economics and more about egos. This may drag negotiations and as a result all commodities will suffer, and that includes wool’. ‘A further difficulty facing crossbred wools’, he says ‘is a lack of innovation is dragging the market down. But we see a glimpse of innovative uses for crossbred wools coming onto the market, such as felting and footwear. But it is not enough. We need more of this innovation in crossbred wools’. And he comments that ‘when it comes to PETA and other similar animal activist type groups we need to communicate better. As an industry we need to stop preaching to ourselves about our environmental credentials and tell the public that we should freely be able to use what nature has provided’. In his view while times are challenging
Germany the companies that are old school reliable suppliers will survive because these qualities of dependability, consistency and trustworthiness are appreciated by customers who will show loyalty and help secure their survival. ‘And we are very grateful to our clients for this’, he says. ‘Our customers know that we do not blend. We supply 100% German wool, and deliver to specification’. ‘We provide our customers with the high level of assurance in quality and compliance with their specifications. All wool lots are sorted and tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).When we export German wool to our clients they know that it is 100% German wool. We do not sell blended wools’, he points out. ‘Despite the limited availability of our wool it has found its place in many markets around the world.’ ‘We also recognise that there is a growing market in organic certification and on request
German wool packed for export
we can supply this to customers’, he says. ‘In addition we are grading special assortments for many niche clients which also represent a market segment that is currently expanding’.
Exporting the best of German greasy wool since 1962 Friedrich Sturm GmbH & Co KG has exported German greasy wool (32 – 34 microns) to world markets for more than 40 years. We select wool directly from farms – no mixing, no blending. Our wool is sorted and tested by WTAE. We guarantee our clients that their requirements will be fully met in terms of quality, delivery, and documentation.
Bornkamp 2, 25364 Osterhorn Tel. +49-4127-97980 • Fax +49-4127-979899 E-mail: email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org • web: www.frsturm.com wool2yarnglobal 2019
Robert Hall Managing Director of Falkland Wool Growers Ltd
Naturally Falkland Wool
he Falkland Islands enjoys a beautiful environment for rearing sheep for ‘snow-white’ wool production. The Falkland Islands consist of two main islands and over seven hundred smaller islands and islets in the South Atlantic Ocean, off the eastern coast of southern South America. With an extensive rangeland farming system, beaches and cliff-lined coasts, it is home to 80 sheep farms and abundant wildlife. Sheep breeding programmes supported by the Falkland Islands Department of Agriculture have been injecting fresh merino bloodlines into the breeding flock. As a result Falkland wool is becoming finer, with a mean fibre diameter of 23.6 microns in the 2018/2019 season with a range of between 18 - 29 microns. ‘80% of the clip is between 21.0 – 26.5 microns’, says Robert Hall, Managing Director of Falkland Wool Growers Ltd. ‘Favourable climate and environmental conditions ensure high yields often in excess of 70% Schlum Dry basis, vegetable matter results usually under 0.5% with many clips in the 0.1% - 0.3% range and good length, making the wool ideal for scouring applications.’ World class standards of wool preparation and classing are undertaken in each farm’s purpose-built shearing shed.
people and pioneer families; heritage; sheep breeds; seabirds (albatrosses and penguins) and marine mammals (sea lions and elephant seals); landscapes; organic management and extensive sheep stations’, he says. ‘Luxury fashion houses searching for extensively produced, finer micron fibres should look to yarn manufacturers that use Falkland Wool in their product brand, as its characteristics are well suited to many apparel products. The fibre is very white, soft, dyes well and is also good for blending with other fibres’, comments Robert Hall.
‘Our demand for non-mulesed certificates issued by the Falkland Islands Government to buyers of Falkland wool has increased. A growing number of manufacturers require wool certification, including certificates of origin and non-mulesed status, which is a positive move’, says Robert Hall. ‘All our wool is non-mulesed and fully traceable to individual wool growers, farms and flocks.’
‘We can assist with supply chain solutions, working with world class manufacturers and processors and your existing suppliers. Wool bales (nylon packs) are transported to Stanley (the capital) for shipping to the UK, Europe and other destinations around the world. Testing is carried out by NZWTA and WTAE (UK) with the test results being the basis of all sales’, he says. ‘Certified Organic supplies are available and all wool is prepared ready for best scouring, carding and combing – it is truly beautiful wool from a unique environment’.
At Falkland Wool Growers Ltd we can provide fully traceable wool with beautiful fibre characteristics and associated marketing stories including
Robert Hall can be contacted at email@example.com
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Open your Doors to Falkland Wool Choice snow-white Falkland Islands fleece untied and fully traceable
• Fibre diameters available in 18 - 29 microns (average 23.6m) • Excellent soft handling, length and good bulk • 0.1/0.5% vegetable matter, no burrs, classed and fully skirted • Prepared ready for best Scouring, Carding and Combing • Fully tested with original IWTO/WTAE/NZWTA certificates
• Free of Organo-Phosphate and Synthetic Pyrethroid sheep dip residues (No sheep dipping by Falkland Islands farmers) • Fleeces from Merino, Polwarth, Corriedale, Cormo, Multi Purpose Merino (MPM’s) and Comeback sheep breeds. • Certified Organic supplies available • All sheep non-mulesed
FALKLANDWOOL G R O W E R S
Email: firstname.lastname@example.org • Tel: 00 44 (0) 1848 200 497 www.falklandwoolgrowers.co.uk
Making it better with a new generation technological innovation, operational flexibility and forward-thinking attitudes.’ In the past year the team at Standard Wool UK has welcomed Jonathan Swift into its team. Jonathan is well-known in the wool industry and has more than 20 years experienced in wool trading.
Left to right: Rebecca Spinks-Carter, Mark Powell, Dean Sugden, Andrew Jones, Paul Hughes (Managing Director), Pete Handley, Matthew Tinsley
tandard Wool UK operates a diverse business. It processes scoured wool, and wool tops, and noils. It also hold large stocks of wools from around the world including NZ, UK, South American, and Europe in greasy and scoured form as well as tops and Punta Tops from Chile. The company also exports wool grease and offers commission wool processing. ‘Ensuring that our clients around the globe can obtain wool fibre for their production needs with confidence at any time of the year is at the heart of our business’, says Paul Hughes, ‘We are forward thinking with strong financial backing, this allows us to trade wool on a global scale and to invest in our UK Scouring Plant, Chilean Combing Plant in our offices oversees and most importantly in human resources for the future.’ Transferring knowledge effectively from one person to the next and one generation to the next has been a facet of Standard Wool UK for some years. ‘Our intergenerational workplace provides learning opportunities for all. We know that each generation brings its own set of skills to our company and that the sharing of knowledge goes in both directions’, says Paul Hughes. ‘We’ve made it our business to combine traditional values and the vibrancy of the next generation with 144 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
‘The wool industry has been changing, and particularly so in the last 5 years’, continues Paul Hughes. ‘Globally our clients may no longer have the luxury of a wool buyer and production manager within their own company. The expertise that we provide will help customers to determine the best wool for their specific product needs. ‘We go much further than just selling wool - we advise our customers on all aspects of fibre processing. Our expertise enables us to push their specification requirements to secure the maximum benefit for their processing needs. We can provide customers with a completely new spec that will be better priced and result in a better finished product for them - this is what our new team is all about! We are trusted by our customers and this is central to our business module. The Standard Wool processing facility in the UK operates as Thomas Chadwick & Sons and employ 55 highly skilled workers. It scours over 22 million kgs of wool every year, representing over 25% of the total UK wool clip. ‘We have developed a new blend of wool and nylon’, says Mark Andrews, Production Director. ‘Wool is a strong fibre suitable for carpets and corporate use, combined with the additional strength of nylon to keep it in shape and aid durability for heavy use.’ The company’s environmental policies and commitment to best practice have earned it ISO9001:2000 Quality Management accreditation in Processing as well as ISO14001:2004 Environmental Management accreditation, Soil Association accreditation and Oeko-Tex100 Certification.
British Wool – beautiful, versatile, durable and timeless. Naturally.
From fashion to flooring, British Wool is more versatile than you may think. It’s also luxurious, hard-wearing, flame retardant and connects people to nature – beautifully. Create more natural products with British Wool. To find out more about the unique properties of British Wool visit our website britishwool.org.uk or email email@example.com
Brintons Carpets, Marriott County Hall Hotel London
BRITISH WOOL a truly versatile fibre
he UK has more sheep breeds than any country in the world â€“ over sixty different breeds cared for by more than 40,000 sheep farmers, living a free range lifestyle, grazing on hills and lowlands. A combination of the variation in breed and the British environment and landscape combine to allow British wool to be used in an extremely broad spectrum of applications.
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United Kingdom Interior Textiles One of the major benefits of British wool is its robustness and ability to keep its shape and appearance for longer than any other material. This is one of the reasons why Camira Fabrics use British wool for the carriage seats on the London Underground. Ian Burn, Director of Marketing at Yorkshire based Camira Fabrics explains “Wool in general is nature’s high performance textile fibre. It has in-built smart abilities, making it hard wearing, flame retardant, breathable and with long-lasting appearance retention. British wool has more natural crimp and bounce compared to wool from other parts of the world, helping it withstand the high traffic demands of the UK’s busy capital city.”
Carpets Leading carpet manufacturers such as Brintons Carpets, servicing global contract locations of hotels, casinos and airports, also insist on British wool for these reasons. Sarah Draper, Commercial Marketing Manager at Brintons Carpets explains “Brintons proudly uses British wool as the main ingredient in its Axminster and Wilton carpets because it is durable, looks great, has a luxurious soft feel and offers various environmental and economic benefits for commercial installations. British wool benefits from the ability to bounce back after being compressed, making it the ideal product for a carpet. This enables it to look good for longer which is a particular benefit to high traffic spaces such as airports and convention centres. The acoustic insulating properties of wool also limit the spread of sound in areas such as restaurants, bars and hotel corridors.” To aid their licensees’ sales teams, British Wool is currently carrying out independent product testing that will help demonstrate how British wool performs better in carpets than other global wools.
Beds and Bedding A unique benefit of wool is its natural ability to regulate body temperature. It is for this reason that many bed and bedding manufacturers,
Brintons Carpets, Celebrity Edge Cruise Ship
such as the Silentnight Group and Sleepeezee, use British wool in their products. Graham Clark, Director of Marketing at British Wool comments “One of the most practical benefits of wool is in the arena of sleep, yet despite all of the research carried out over the years, consumer awareness is still quite low. Our new consumer focused marketing approach is designed to address this. We are also taking the product further afield and have recently signed an agreement to supply one of the leading suppliers of bedding in China with our wool. There is a similar lack of awareness of the benefits of wool in bedding in China, so a consumer facing educational programme is underway to support this exciting new product opportunity.”
Apparel and Knitwear The other main product category where British wool is used is in apparel and knitwear. Clark comments “We estimate that over a third of our wool goes into either apparel or knitwear. British wool lends itself to products such as tweed and traditional knitwear because of its unique natural colour, handle and texture. We are currently working with UK based manufacturers and have an exciting live project in the pipeline with one of the largest cloth manufacturers in China. ” Clark concludes, “British wool is truly one of the most versatile natural materials known to man. As well as the many benefits that make it the perfect choice for an abundance of applications, it is also natural, renewable and biodegradable thus having a positive impact on the environment.” wool2yarnglobal 2019
WHEN YOU NEED SAFE HAN YOU CAN RELY ON We deliver more… • wool to your specification greasy scoured or tops • delivering all year around • prompt delivery • competitive prices • quality and consistency • exporter of Norwegian, European, New Zealand, Real Shetland and Irish wool
BW80 17th September BW81 1st October BW82 15th October BW83 5th November BW84 19th November BW85 10th December BW86 7th January BW87 21st January
2019 2019 2019 2019 2019 2019 2020 2020
BW88 11th February BW89 25th February BW90 10th March BW91 24th March BW92 7th April BW93 21st April BW94 12th May BW95 9th June
2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020
Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 • Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720
NDS TO DELIVER YOUR WOOL ... CURTIS WOOL DIRECT
TRIED AND TRUE - PROVEN RELIABILITY - SECURITY OF SUPPLY FINANCIAL STRENGTH - PRODUCT QUALITY
THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL Patron: HRH The Prince of Wales
firstname.lastname@example.org • email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org • www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk
Grand Design 2019
British Wool Plans for 2019/20
uch of British Wool’s focus in the UK will be concentrated on continuing the direct to consumer marketing approach which was started in 2018. Graham Clark, Director of Marketing explains more. “The first stage of our new approach involved establishing a new licensee scheme. This ensures we are only working with brands who are using the correct levels of British wool in their products. Our consumer marketing aims to achieve two distinct objectives, firstly to educate consumersabout the benefits of British wool and secondly to promote our licensees’ brands and products.” Clark continues “We started our social media push 18 months ago with the creation of new consumer orientated social media channels (@BritishWool). Our main channels are Facebook and
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Instagram and we have already established healthy numbers, however we plan to move this to the next level over the coming 12 months with some ambitious stretch targets in place.” As well as digital, British Wool also recognised the need for in-store collateral. “A lot of our wool is used in the manufacture of high quality carpets and research has shown that the carpet purchasing decision making process tends to happen in the retail premises. With this in mind, we are working with leading UK based manufacturers such as Brintons Carpets, Brockway Carpets and Alternative Flooring to create some eye-catching dual brand display stands branded as ‘The British Wool Collection’. These displays aim to increase consumer awareness and, overtime, drive sales of British wool carpets on the UK high street. A similar approach is being implemented in the bed and bedding retail market where
again many purchasing decisions are made in the actual retailer.” Other activity includes attending consumer exhibitions such as Grand Designs to stimulate leads and interest in licensee’s brands and products. There will also be further development of the British Wool website (britishwool. org.uk) with an enhanced‘find a retailer’ section going live over the summer. British Wool will also continue to work with industry groups, such as the Campaign for Wool and the Wool Carpet Focus Group to deliver relevant messages to a wider audience. A lot of British Wool’s efforts for the coming year will be focused on its new office and operation in China. Clark explains “The response from carpet manufacturers at Domotex in March was excellent and we are already working with 4 prospective licensees who are using high levels of British wool. Once they have been established we will roll out our carpet marketing programme in China.” But the main thrust of activity will be centred on identifying new product opportunities where manufacturers are using little to no British wool. “By encouraging new customers to use British wool,we will diversify our customer base, increase demand and ultimately increase the price. Our approach is to identify strategically attractive partners with whom we can have a long term relationship with. From there we will work together and create value add through our sales and marketing activities. This is likely to include brand creation, marketing collateral creation, product expertise, social media promotion etc, but our approach is totally flexible and the degree of support will ultimately be determined by the customer and the opportunity.” “It is still early days but our approach seems to be bearing fruits.We have recently entered into an agreement with a leading Chinese bedding manufacturer to launch a British wool collection in September and we continue to work on a longer term apparel project which will be initially launched later this year.” Clearly social media plays an integral role in everyday Chinese life.This is an area that will also be developed over the coming months, with the launch of British Wool WeChat and Weibo channels. Clark concludes “2019-20 is a challenging and extremely exciting year for British Wooland we hope to see our new marketing approach contribute to increasing the overall returnwe deliver to our wool producers.” wool2yarnglobal 2019
years of service Large stocks of wool and speciality fibres at Europa Wools warehouse
‘Variety and supply are keys factor in our position as a leading stockist of fibre out of the UK. We supply to spinners of weaving, knitting, upholstery and carpet yarns, as well as felt-makers, technical non-woven and home-ware manufacturers’, says Richard Morsley, Managing Director Europa Wools. ‘Whatever occurs with respect to Brexit our customers in UK and Europe will continue to receive the service and fibre they need, when they need it’. Europa Wool supplies wools of many origins from 17.5 to 38 microns, specialising in New Zealand, Australian and British wool. ‘We also source and stock scoured wools from many other origins including South Africa, South America and various European origins. We can scour any grade of greasy wool from a minimum of 100kgs up to large runs of any weight’. The company also stocks a large variety of other speciality fibres including silk and camel hair as well as a wide range of wool in combed tops, scoured and noils. ‘The capacity to hold a huge variety of stock throughout the year is something only a few companies are able to do. ‘The recent trend by UK manufacturers has been to move away from keeping stock on hand. Our customers appreciate the security of knowing we can deliver quickly, and if we don’t have a specific type and quantity in stock we will find it,’ points out Richard Morsley. Europa Wool offers an in-house combing service from smaller lots. ‘Large scouring plants will not offer this 152 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
in small quantities, but it is a service we are able to provide, and with sample quantities provided to the customer.’ As the cost of wool continues to create difficulties for many manufacturers Europa Wool remains competitive and provides for the changing needs of customers old and new. ‘We create bespoke blends from all natural and synthetic fibres. When a customer is looking for something unique we can bespoke gill blend combed tops to create blends of many fibres, starting from as little as 10kgs up to large runs. It creates unique yarns and blends from weaving yarns up to knitting yarns and can supply these on cones ready for dyeing or reeling. Italy represents 20% of Europa Wool’s business where lambs wool is in demand in Biella for its good colour. ‘Our main stock of carbonised wools is Australian lamb types. They offer the best style, good length, super colour ranging from 18 - 28 microns. We also stock and source carbonised lamb and fleece types from many other origins, such as South Africa and South America. Europa Wools can Kroy hercosett (superwash) scoured wool and combed wool tops and combs most natural fibres. It also offers expert colour matching and can spin on woollen or worsted systems. ‘We also provide non-mulesed certification for Australian wool when needed. But a central advantage to our customers is our stock holding capability and in-stock range.
Busy twelve months for UK processing plant
ctivewear and sportswear designers and manufacturers continue to choose wool for comfort and better performance outcomes. They choose wool for its favourable qualities in all temperatures, climates and workout intensities. But such garments need frequent washing and therefore demand for shrink-proof wool treatments. ‘We believe that at present we offer the best Superwash treatment for quality machine washable wool across all microns. It is proven to work effectively when treating large quantities and diverse wool types. It out-performs the new treatments in terms of machine washable and tumble dry
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performance,’ says Albert Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford UK (SPB). The company has been processing loose fibre and tops for more than 30 years. It processes crossbred wools, wools from New Zealand, and the UK and European wools. It is particularly
well known to manufacturers for its shrink-proof wool and tops for bedding products such as pillows, mattresses, and duvets.
SHRINK RESISTANT WOOL PROCESSING
SPB treatment complies with The Total Easy Care (TEC) process. It is Woolmark Accredited and operates to ISO 9001 quality standards. It is registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK and can offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification. The company customer base stretches from the UK, to Western Europe, Scandinavia, North America, as well as Japan and South Korea. ‘Our independence is important to our customers. As a commission processing company customers can send their wool to us for treatment with confidence that it will be processed to their specification. We provide technical and individually tailored advice to our customers. We also have a quick turnaround time and customers usually receive their wool back within days’, he says. SPB has recently installed a new blending machine to increase capacity and speed, as well as offering customers variations in individual orders. The installation of a new baling press to increase efficiency is also making for speedier delivery of these orders. ‘And irrespective of the outcome of Brexit negotiations we will always retain our close relationships with customers in Europe’, Albert Chippendale concludes.
Albert Chippendale (left) and son Lewis Chippendale at SPB plant in Bradford
Championing animal welfare in Chile
unta Arenas tops are preferred by spinners and weavers around the world for its snow-white colour and highly desirable characteristics including length, consistency, bulk, high tensile strength and exceptional handle.
‘Our wool buyers visit 450 individual wool growers of Corriedale and Merino sheep in Patagonia every year’, says Dean Sugden general manager at Standard Wool plant in Punta Arenas Chile. ‘We source our wool strictly to IWTO Guidelines for wool sheep welfare, and we are heavily involved in the new BPG (Animal Awareness Best Practice for Farmers) program in Chile. And Chilean wool is not mulesed’. Paul Hughes CEO Standard Wool Group head office in the UK adds ‘open discussions have been held with farmer associations and wool producers in Chile to raise awareness about animal husbandry best practice. Standard Wool Group has championed awareness of this issue and works with all wool industry groups on this initiative’. The best wools in terms of quantity and quality are produced in the south of the country. Punta Arenas Super Fleeces Top has a soft handle, super strength, low vegetable matter and exceptional length and meets Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Product Class 1. It is snow white colour and is especially popular for knitwear manufacturers. Standard Wool Chile offers long tops, noils, and high grade wool grease. 156 | wool2yarnglobal 2019
Products include Super Fleeces, Porvenir Fleeces and Natales with a range of 20 to 30 microns. It also supplies Falkland Islands tops and scoured wool produced from 100% Falkland Islands farms. All Standard Wool Chile wool products are tested at its Interwoollabapproved laboratory within its Chilean processing facility. ‘We have been working with Chilean wool for over 200 years and today we buys 60-70% of its annual clip’, says Dean Sugden. ‘We value the wool on a visual basis, rather than only looking at a test certificate. Our knowledge about these wools has provided us the expertise to make consistent blends from this magnificent fleece wool, and then deliver it as tops to spinners in key markets domestically and around the world’. Last year Standard Wool’s Chilean plant installed new nsc combs, resulting in a cleaner and more regular sliver and enabling quicker delivery to customers. ‘Our Punta tops can be delivered to customers in Biella as a ‘next day’ service when required. So many more customers are looking for sustainable products, delivered quickly. They prefer the certainty and confidence that comes from our guaranteed supply’, says Dean Sugden. Dean Sugden can be contacted at email@example.com
STANDARD WOOL WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS FOLLOW. WITH OVER 200 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE, STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY AND SERVICING MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES WORLD WIDE, ITâ€™S NOT SURPRISING MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE TURNING TO US FOR ALL THEIR WOOL REQUIREMENTS. WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK
STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600 STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182
PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL
Sustainability and what it means for South African wool growers by Deon Saayman Cape Wools SA
henever we hear the word sustainability we are often left confused about the actual meaning and it sometime seems like different interpretations are applied to suit individual goals. We therefore have to look at sustainability within a textile framework and more specifically to the production of animal fibres from cradle to cradle. The world is an evolving place and the modern day consumer is evolving rapidly. Their ideas of what is ethical and
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sustainable is adaptive and their demands for information is becoming more and more insistent and sometimes to the point of bordering on the absurd, with social media used as a source of information, with perception sometimes regarded as true facts. When you speak about sustainability, the comment is often made that some of the Eastern cultures couldnâ€™t care and the Chinese consumer is not sophisticated enough to apply ethical principles to their purchase behaviour. The reality is that The East and China specifically has changed dramatically and the average middle class is growing at an
Natural Sustainable Ethical Since 1789, proudly produced from Merino sheep in South Africa.
South African Merino Wool is globally acclaimed for exceptional quality apparel wool and is meticulously classed for the international market.
Tel: +27 41 484 4301 firstname.lastname@example.org www.capewools.co.za
South Africa enormous pace. The Chinese consumer has evolved into a global shopper equally focussed on ethicality as their New York counterparts. The Fashion Brands is where it all begins, with setting the trends and creating the image of fashion and the feeling of luxury that the consumer aspires to. This is where the pressure begins to ensure the brands are in a defendable position when it comes to their
raw material supply chains. From the brands it will filter down to other household names and retailers and also to the interior sector of the market. Consumers want to know that they can trust the brand they are buying, and that the product they are wearing was produced in an ethical manner. Wool in itself is a brand and the trust we create in the â€œwool brandâ€? starts on the farm. To ensure that trust can be created with the consumer, we need to ensure there is visibility across the entire supply chain, which starts with a traceable source from the farm. Although a certified sustainable produced product may attract a premium within certain markets during certain cycles, it is predominantly an assurance of a market for your product, with the focus on the long term entry to and acceptance by the market. With such a rapidly growing range of standards and requirements from clients, farmers are often left confused and agitated with the number of different hoops required to jump trough. The responsible wool standard was implemented by an International body of powerful brands, retailers and supply chain specialists, known as Textile Exchange. The rapid growth in demand for RWS certified wool has made this standard probably the most recognized in the global textile sector, with the some of the Australian wool producing sector struggling to meet the non-mulesing requirements. South African wool producers have a distinct advantage in that mulesing is not practiced, and should be exploited as a marketing tool for South African wool. Cape Wools is currently in the process of rolling out a strategy to establish broad sustainability guidelines, based on the initial Code of Best Practice. It will establish guidelines which can be measured on farm, by means of an assessment. The guidelines will be based on the principles contained in the various standards, like RWS
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South Africa and ZQ, but will be user friendly and set a standard across the Industry, without the certification from the body concerned. The Industry standard could be referred to as “Sustainable Wool South Africa” and displayed as such in the catalogue. This will create the basis of a sustainable, traceable wool supply, integrated into a single platform, which will incorporate critical bio security recording principles. The certification as currently registered by independent parties will continue, with the traceability platform making provision for all aspects of sustainable production. Sustainable wool certification will endeavour to create a source of trustworthy sustainable wool for the International market, without the accompanying costs of International certification requirements. The roll out of the on-farm assessments will be done in conjunction with the NWGA production advisors, with audits done on other platforms to be incorporated into a
central database to eliminate duplication of assessments and audits. Sustainability is something that stretches across the entire Industry and value chains will be put under the spotlight more and more to ensure they produce product in line with market requirements.It is in the interest of every wool farmer to make sure that all the relevant facts and requirements are known as soon as the standards have been released and to be able to be measured against market requirements. South African Wool farmers should regard the sustainable guidelines as an opportunity, as the good practices currently applied by farmers will meet most of these criteria. As an industry body, it is the responsibility of Cape Wools to play a leading role in the implementation of guidelines for the wool Industry, thereby creating long term sustainable growth for the Industry and all role-players in the value chain.
Established company straightforward approach
tandard Wool South Africa continues to expand. It has added two new shareholders. Ken Craig has joined the Board of Directors this year. ‘We are bringing the future generation into the fold to ensure the longevity of our company’, says Mark Wright joint director at Standard Wool South Africa, one of the largest exporters of South African wool. ‘We have been exporting SA wool for more than 20 years and operate a straightforward business. We will continue to deliver wool to our customers with the right specification, and at the right price’. ‘As we all know wool trading can be unpredictable and volatile’, he continues. ‘This is largely due to fast changing fashion trends. But when this is exacerbated by drought that limits the wool supply it just adds an additional layer of complexity to our business. So the last season has not
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South Africa been without challenges but we continue to be flexible and adaptable to our customer needs’. South Africa’s Code of Best Practice was created to ensure sustainable farming practices that incorporate animal welfare, environmental conservation, social acceptability and optimum production with reference to the appropriate legislation. ‘Clip preparation is of a high standard and our wool has a well earned reputation for softness, uniformity and our sheep are non-mulesed’, says Paul Lynch joint director at Standard Wool South Africa. ‘Users of South African wool can be confident that the wool we send them is non-mulesed. We can provide Non-Mulesing Certification, issued by Cape Wools SA for all of our wool’. South African wool has a very low CVH and very regular length and is suitable for top and yarn manufacturers. It is known for its excellent colour and measures between 60 - 69 Y units on the brightness scale. These attributes also make it ideal to blend with Australian wool. Standard Wool South Africa is privately owned and has no links to any top making company. All exported wool
Mark Wright (left) and Paul Lynch
is tested by an independent IWTO-accredited laboratory (Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa) and IWTO test certificates are used as a basis of trading as per international standards.
STANDARD WOOL •S
Objective results from WTB
ccording to Wian Heath, Managing Director of the Wool Testing Bureau S.A. (WTB), all wool sold at auction in South Africa is certified by WTB. The IWTO Test Certificates issued by the Company provide objective results which are used by buyers as part of their pricing models. By having the wool certified, the seller ensures that his product is accurately described to attract a market-related price. Buyers of certified wool also make use of this information to predict the processing performance of the productsthey purchase, enabling them to optimise input costs and quality requirements of deliveries. The issuing of IWTO certificates require strict adherence to the IWTO Core Test Regulations for the sampling of wool bales as well as the relevant IWTO Test Methods to ensure that the test results are accurate and precise. All sampling operations are supervised by WTB staff to verify the integrity of the samples
taken during the grab and coring processes. The centralisation of sampling operations in Port Elizabeth provides economies of scale enabling cost effective services to the brokers and their clients. The Company continuously invests in new testing equipment to provide its customers with results based on the latest technologies. All IWTO Certificates issued by WTB are available as encrypted, digitally signed PDF files. Each certificate is identified by a unique Test Certificate Number and the validity of certificates can be verified by using the online verification service available at http://verify.wtbsa.co.za. The user enters the certificate number and security code indicated on the certificate on the webpage. Once the request has been verified, a copy of the certificate will be emailed to the user. WTB is an IWTO accredited Test House and a member of the Independent Laboratories Round Trials (ILRT) Group. Participating members of the Group conduct two trials per week and present a report to industry at the annual IWTO Congress. Membership to the ILRT group provides unique benchmarking opportunities and enables WTB to review its technical proficiency and maintain certification standards. The Company is also a member of Interwoollabs (IWL), whose aims are to ensure the most correct and uniform application of IWTO test methods. Participation in proficiency testing programs such as Interwoollabs and the ILRT group enables the harmonisation of test results with other major international Test Houses. We maintain a high level of technical competence and we are committed to providing world-class testing services to all our clients.â€™
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ACCURACY EFFICIENCY INTEGRITY Wool Testing Bureau SA Providing the South African industry with impartial certification services • Greasy Wool Core Testing – Yield | Mean Fibre Diameter Staple Length and Strength | Colour • Scoured Wool, Carbonised Wool and Wool Top Testing • Product Testing – Textile | Automotive • Comprehensive Grower Services
Technical Expertise and Professional Integrity • Accredited to ISO 17025 • I.W.T.O. Licensed laboratory • Member of Interwoollabs • Member of the Independent Laboratory Round Trials Group (ILRT)
Wool Testing Bureau SA Head Office: Cnr University Way & Gomery Avenue, Summerstrand, South Africa P.O. Box 1867, Port Elizabeth, 6000, South Africa Telephone: +27 41 503 6600 | Facsimile: +041 583 2195 E-Mail: email@example.com | Website: www.wtbsa.co.za
Lempriere SA today
he last season has not been an easy one for the South African(SA) wool industry. The ongoing drought and the exclusion of 40,000 bales of wool from Lesotho at the SA auction system has had a significant impact. The import ban on South African wool by China due to foot and mouth disease also impacted enormously. The export ban has been in place for 6 months and the first containers only sailed in August. Lempriere South Africa has been exporting wool for some 10 years and the trading conditions in the past season have been unprecedented. I spoke with Peter Carey Lempriere South Africa’s trading manager about wool availability, price, and market demand during my recent visit to Port Elizabeth. ‘The drought is affecting the quality and quantity of the SA clip’, Peter Carey commented. ‘As less wool is available in SA the industry may need to reduce the number of auctions held. Shearing is also being pushed back to 8 to 9 months rather than 6 month shearing intervals. However new season wools that will come on to the market from September onwards are showing signs of an improved season, and it is some of the best quality wool we have seen in several years, with good colour, low vegetable matter and high staple strengthall on display’. Whilst we have experienced one of the more difficult seasons in history for the South African industry we have been able to overcome these hurdles and will be back to normal trading conditions in the very near future. With the fleece market having corrected back to the levels last seen in 2015 and carding wools trading at the lowest levels in 10 years, wool will
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quickly regain the ground it lost during the period of “the super cycle” which drove prices to levels not conducive for the retail sector to use wool. ‘At the time of writing the wool market has shed 30/35% of its value and we are hopefully past the midpoint of the USA and China trade war’, he says. ‘This is causing incredible volatility in global currency and equity markets which are potentially showing the warning signs of a global recession. This type of volatility and hardship is not foreign to the wool industry and we can only be optimistic that the second half of the season will see a return to better trading conditions’. Lempriere South Africa has developed strong relationships within the local brokering network for the supply of consistent quality and quantity. The company is also a major buyer at auction. ‘The majority of the wools we purchase are in the 19.0 to 23 micron range and we cover all types for carding and combing needs. We are able to purchase on indent and offer firm for prompt delivery as required by the market.’ ‘We offer practical solutions from farm to retail with close associations at all levels of the local supply chain. International buyers are increasingly drawn to sustainability, traceability and animal welfare and we can offer non-mulesed certification when required’, says Peter Carey. ‘There is only a short lead time from auction to shipment and we see our operation here in South Africa as complimentary to Australia as a valuable supply source. We are an integral component of the Lempriere global supply network. All wools purchased by Lempriere South Africa are tested by an Interwoollabs accredited wool testing house. Non-mulesing certification is available to customers on request’. Peter Carey can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
Association members at June meeting
Italian Wool Trade Association gears up for 100th anniversary
he Italian Wool Trade Association was established in 1920 and will celebrate its 100th anniversary next year. Its longevity is entwined with Italy’s position as a world leader in fashion, class, and style, and wool has always been a flagship fibre to this industry. Currently there are 42 full members and five Associate Members including topmakers, spinners, weavers, and many associated industries. Wool companies from other countries can join this association and members from Bulgaria, France, Germany, Switzerland, Turkey and the UK are included. ‘The main objective of our Association is to represent traders of wool and allied fibres, top makers and agents, and promote the interest of the European wool trade. It also provides regularly information and up-to-date statistics on wool, wool tops and other noble fibres’, says President Piercarlo Zedda. The Association also lobbies European Union in issues that affect the wool industry. ‘For the 90th anniversary, ten years ago the
association published a book “The World of Animal Fibres” and today we have other projects in process for the celebration of the 100th anniversary next year’. Fashion is one of the biggest industries in Italy with a turnover of almost USD110 billion. This represents over 5% of the country’s total GDP. The ‘Made in Italy’ apparel supply chain denotes a portion of this total. The turnover of the textile and apparel in Italy is over USD60 billion. Italy has outstanding production facilities particularly in Biella, Prato and Veneto region that are famous for their premium quality fabrics and yarns. The Italian wool spinning industry and top making has a combined turnover of nearly USD3 billion. Italian wool weaves produce over 250 million meters of premium wool and wool blended fabric with a turnover of around USD4 billion. As a whole, the Italian wool industry has a total turnover of over U$7 billion and is therefore bigger than the Australian, New Zealand, South African and South American wool industries combined. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Working for a better tomorrow
iella has the world’s largest concentration of industries dedicated exclusively to the production of high-quality and luxury wool fabrics. It is also home to the exclusive fashion brands. ‘Biella is where most wool fabrics begin their journey’, says Piercarlo Zedda joint company director at Pantex spa in Biella and current president of the Italian Wool Trade Association. ‘As they say ‘all roads lead to Rome’, but when it comes to wool in high fashion ‘all roads lead to Biella’.’ Pantex has been supplying Italian and European knitting and weaving companies with wool products for more than 47 years. It offers an extensive stock range of wool to topmakers and spinners including standard types from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, and Europe in tops, open tops, wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized wool blends, and carbonized noils as well as combing wool-wastes, spinning wool-wastes and weaving wool wastes. ‘At Pantex we are more than just an Italian company. We service customers beyond Italy, and operate throughout Europe. We are outward focused and our business ethics incorporate the environmental considerations
Giovanni Zedda (left) and Piercarlo Zedda
of all our customers,’ he says. ‘Traceability of fibre is the most important issue for European garment manufacturers, and that includes the high end luxury brands. Environmental responsibilities and sustainability is very important to our company and it is part of our business philosophy. We seek to achieve this through our commitment to using renewable energy and extend this business practice throughout our supply chain and to our customer base. We can supply certified wool and non-mulesed wool and tops when required by our customers’. The impact of a reduced wool production worldwide will put pressure on wool prices and the ability to source the right wool at the right time. In addition, the drought in Australia is impacting on the quality of Australian wool. ‘To be able to source the right wool when it is needed will become even more important’, comments Giovanni Zedda. ‘We have well established relationships with brokers in all major wool growing countries, and our warehouse in Biella is well stocked to deliver without delay. Pantex sorts, cleans, and blends wool within its own premises. ‘We can deliver to any specification and any blend. Our Interwoollab accredited textile testing laboratory has been installed to provide an extra layer of protection and security to customers that receive wool that flows through our plant. Long term contracts are available as well as one off buying’, says Piercarlo Zedda. ‘We are a one-stop-shop with warehouse facilities and a testing laboratory in the heart of Biella. Quality, service, fast delivery and a big range of products in stock is a priority for us. We are very particular about quality and that is why our clients are happy to come and do business with us year after year’, he says. Piercarlo Zedda and Giovanni Zedda can be contacted by email at email@example.com
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environmental responsibility sustainability & animal welfare
One-stop-shop for buyers of wool & top ✓ tops and open tops ✓ scoured wool of all origins ✓ raw noils and carbonized noils ✓ wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized wool blends, and carbonized noils ✓ certified wool and non-mulesed wool and tops ✓ combing, spinning, and weaving wool wastes
Setting the standard in quality and service Via Monte Grappa 11, 13888 Mongrando, Biella, Italy Tel: +39 015 666160 • Fax: +39 015 667272 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org • www.pantex-spa.it
Bottoli’s luxury brand Lanaitaliana Stile di vita® fabric created from undyed Italian Merino wool
Using the best Italian Merino
he Bottoli family name has been working with Italian Merino wool for many years. ‘Our wool mill was established in 1861. We have been specialising in the selection and upgrading of the best Italian merino wools and have been creating ecological fabrics long before it was fashionable to do so’, says Roberto Bottoli of Lanificio Bottoli in Veneto Italy.
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‘The story of Italian Merino began at the beginning of the 15th century by crossbreeding Italian sheep with Merino Rambouillet rams donated to the Papal State by the Spanish monarchs who until then had jealously guarded this valuable breed’, Roberto Bottoli comments. ‘The most
important characteristic of Italian wool is its resilience. We have enhanced this feature and produce carded yarns with low weight, good for fabrics with personality but light, soft and difficult to crease. These performance outcomes match today’s demand for technical sports fabrics, in particular jackets with volume but light in weight.’ ‘Enriched with tradition creating ecological textiles is what we bring to our customers’, he continues. ‘We spin and weave linking the skills of artisans and modern technology, and remain focused on the best principles of industrial ethics.’ Lanificio Bottoli procures this wool from the Italian regions of Abruzzo, Molise, Marche and Puglia, selecting the best fleeces from the Sopravvissana and Gentile di Puglia breeds. Only the finest fleeces, which guarantee wool grades less than 23,5 micron, are used to make the innovative fabrics labelled Lanaitaliana® Stile di Vita.
‘We can say that this fabric is an ecological fabric created using this undyed Italian Merino wool.We do not use colouring substances or dyeing, just excellent fibre and the craftsmanship of people who work with wool to create these extraordinary fabrics.’ In 2006 Lanificio Bottoli initiated its promotion of a national competition to award a prize to “the finest batch of Italian wool”. The competition is open to the best sheep breeders and reserved for grease wool from the shearing of sheep bred exclusively in Italy. ‘The aim of this initiative is to increase awareness of wool growing in Italy and encouragebetter animal husbandry for the breeds whose wool was practically ignored for many years. The best batches are used for the Lanaitaliana Lifestyle® line in menswear fancy fabrics for jacketing. We produce 40,000 meters of fabric per year, 25,000 meters are made using this wool. Bottoli Lane production facilities cover 5000sqm. The company is vertically integrated from the selection of raw material to spinning,
The Sopravissana is a domestic sheep mainly from Marche in central Italy
twisting, dyeing, warping, weaving, and fabric. ‘Lanaitaliana Stile di Vita® fabric is truly 100% Italian and constant research and product innovation go hand in hand with ourcenturies old experience in Italian craftsmanship’, he concludes. wool2yarnglobal 2019
Stock variety from Biella
hether you are selling greasy or scoured wool, wooltop or noble fibres to Italian textile companies local knowledge is paramount’, says Mauro Delorenzi Director of Grey Stone Wools. Based in the heart of Biella, Grey Stone Wool supplies major textile manufacturers in Italy. ‘The right connections are essential. We have our finger on the pulse when it comes to sourcing wool and tops of all origins. ‘We are always interested in establishing contacts with exporters from other companies that require an agent in Italy to represent their interests in both Italy and greater Europe. We know what the market situation is on the ground and have direct links to a wide variety of wools. We also assist our local customers in Italy to take advantage of any price fluctuations and stock availability. With wool production diminishing worldwide this is very important. We have stock at the ready for spinners and weavers in Italy and can source the fibre required by these customers quickly. ‘We can assist customers by sourcing the fibre they need for manufacture of any type of product including coarser types to finer types and in most instances we can deliver within days if prompt delivery is required. Customers can contact us for their particular requirement types’. ‘We are always interested in establishing contact with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils from around the world, says Mauro Delorenzi.’
For more information Mauro Delorenzi can be contacted in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E. email@example.com
JOIN THE SUCCESS OF OUR MANY CLIENTS...
Our agency has represented suppliers and users of textile raw materials since 1996. So if you are looking for representation into Europe or if you are a European based company looking for a supply of textile raw material you should talk to us Direct from origin on fleece basis: Scoured New Zealand wools • Australian Scoured and Carbonised wools • European Wools Stock available in Europe: Wool from all origin in Tops, Open Tops, Scoured and Carbonised • Noble Fibers as dehaired Cashmere & dehaired Cashmere tops & Angora
10 Via Candelo 13900 Biella • Tel. 039 015 8497172 • Fax. 039 015 4509317 • E Mail. firstname.lastname@example.org
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Uruguayan Wooltops If you are looking for the best, just contact us!
Achieving the best in environmental preservation. Investing over US$9 million in self-supply water and effluent treatment
Best farm practices - natural grass pastures, clean water supply, weekly controls and veterinary care, no mulesing
Lanas Trinidad S.A. 2047 Calle Miami, 11500 Montevideo, Uruguay Phone: 598 2601 0024 E-mail: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy
Delivering 15 - 32 micron combed wool top in rolls and bumbs in different weights all year around
Greener than green
o achieve high levels of environmental accreditation in early wool processing requires planning and vision’, says Pedro Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad, the largest topmaking company in Uruguay.’ We always go beyond what is required by environmental law and often beyond what is expected by our customers. Caring for our environment is central to our operation. Pedro Otegui adds that ‘in addition to our clean green production we pay special attention to human resources and to animal welfare – no mulesing is performed in Uruguay. Our company motto is - ‘we must deliver a better environment to future generations than the one we inherited’.
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In recognition of the Lanas Trinidad’s commitment to environmental sustainability it was awarded the Circular Economy Trophy 2019 by ANDE - National Agency for Sustainable Development & PAGE UN (Partnership
for Action on Green Economy - a United Nations program), the first company in Latin America to receive this award. This award recognised Lanas Trinidad achievements in 100% waste water reuse including irrigation of its tree plantation, and recognition for reduced electricity use - 20-30% of electricity used to run the mill is derived from its own waste and renewable source. Lanas Trinidad has annual sales of USD 75 million in 18-32 micron dry combed wool tops. ‘We are proud to have accomplished a completely traceable product from farm to top delivery, meeting the expectations of our customers for sustainable and environmentally friendly wool top’, he continues. ‘Many of our international customers are also keen for this environmental accreditation to include non-mulesed certification and today the Ministry of Agriculture of Uruguay has issue a special certificate on non-mulesing to provide an even greater level of verification to suit or customers. ‘There are some 7 million sheep in Uruguay
Uruguay and as one of the largest exporters of wool tops we use considerable volumes of water. However, we only use rainfall water in our scouring process, a natural and renewable source. We do not take water from rivers or ground water reserves’. ‘The waste water is treated in aerobic and anaerobic lagoons where it naturally degrades. There is no discharge into public water systems. After treatment, water purity levels comply with all control requirements and legal standards. Water can be sent back to natural water courses or used – as we do- for other purposes such as agronomic tree irrigation where we grow a forest of trees alongside the plant, increasing growth, contributing to a reduction in carbon dioxide, and reducing methane gas by 95%.
Lanas Trinidad uses rainfall water, a renewable resource, for its scouring process
Lanas Trinidad runs its processing plant using clean and renewable energy. Its wool scouring process uses biodegradable detergents and its combing process only uses sizing oils and biodegradable antistats. The company is ISO 9001-2008 (LATU/ IQnet/ OQS) certified and has GOTS Standard / IMO for organic wool certification, ISO 14001 - 2008 for environmental management and OHSAS 18001 -2007 for occupational safety, and Oekotex standard certification 100, RWS by Textile Exchange and Organic Precious Fiber OPF by Chargeurs. Lanas Trinidad operates its own testing laboratory that is Interwoollab certified.
Effluent treatment & electricity generation
‘Separating and sorting fleeces for the right application is one of the most important aspects of our process. Fleecesare separated according to fineness and quality - completing the first link of a sound traceability system. Most of our wool is sourced from farms that we have known for generations. We know their family, we know their wool, and this enables us to offer our customers perfect traceability of our tops - we know exactly where it has come from’, says Mr Otegui. For more information about Lanas Trinidad – Email: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy www.lanastrinidad.com
Fleece is separated according to fineness and quality - completing the first link of a sound traceability system
A history of tradition a story of responsibility “It’s not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the most responsive to change”
oday’s increasingly conscious consumers expect and demand product traceability and environmental responsibility. Over the last 10 years ENGRAW S.A. has carried out systematic investment strategies for the improvement of its environmental performance and sustainable production methods. With a history in the wool business which spans over three generations, today ENGRAW S.A. continues to operate as a 100% family owned business and is the oldest wool top manufacturing company in Uruguay. Its commitment and experience is based on both employees and management, remaining faithful to its mission as a customer-oriented company, offering high quality products. ENGRAW S.A. is one of the very few South American top makers with superwash treatment facilities. This chemical process guarantees customers that, fabrics and knits manufactured
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with superwash treated wool tops, will be suitable for machine wash and tumble dry, complying with the demanding requirements of TM31. “We offer our clients superwash treated wool tops for their production which directly translates into lower logistics costs for our customers’, says Frank Raquet, Managing Director of Engraw S.A. Since 1951 we have been doing what we love, producing high quality customized wool tops to satisfy the increasing demands from our clients, always taking care of our environment and firmly committed to the wellbeing of the surrounding community”. Environmental responsibility and innovation are part of the company´s mission and ENGRAW is pioneer in the use of wind power in Uruguay. Since 2014 the company has run almost 100% on renewable energy provided by two Vestas 1.8 MW wind turbines that generate the electricity needed for its entire production.
Uruguay ‘On the other hand, we are also committed to reducing the amount of CO2 we release into the environment. For example, our water treatment system consists of several stages. A pre-treatment for heavy dirt removal and specialized lagoons for water waste treatments, where the residual material obtained is used to improve the 90 hectares of land around the mill. The clean water is then used in our irrigation system for eucalyptus trees. These trees will then provide the wood for our boiler, making our process 100% sustainable and renewable”, says Federico Raquet, Managing Director. He continues “We certainly went Green in the energy department, but furthermore we wished to show that the wools we process come from establishments involved in animal welfare ”. In Uruguay animals live according to their natural development and with the minimum human interference. This creates the perfect habitat for the animal to live a stress-free life and provide mulesed-free wools with extraordinary length and fiber resistance, which are extremely important features for the high quality of wool tops. Most Uruguayan growers follow a “Good Animal Practices” guide, published in wool.com.uy to
ensure flocks develop free from stress and in their natural conditions. “It was only logical to take it one step further and encourage some growers to certify their wool production under GOTS and RWS, which we accomplished in 2018,” comments Federico Raquet. ‘We have undertaken the goal to achieve traceability from farm to top and take into consideration environmental impacts and animal welfare. Everyone enjoys a good story, and consumers today are interested in knowing about the entire process behind the product they purchase. At Engraw S.A we offer full traceability and final customers can know the story from the very beginning’, he concludes.
Wool grower in Uruguay offers traceability
he demand for wool from Estancias Puppo has been rising every year. ‘The main reasons for this demand is that we offer high quality, traceability, “green label” and non mulesed wools’, Mr D’jalma Puppo of Estancias Puppo. The green label is a distinction of quality during shearing and sorting. The green label is based on the Australian code of practice. The different categories wool are sorted and baled separately. ‘We never blend different categories, we check the quality at receipt and re-bale into export bales’.
D’Jalma Puppo and Margarita Cortabarria
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Estancias Puppo can also source Organic and Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified wool.
Uruguay ‘Uruguayan sheep, graze on open natural pastures and we pay particular attention to good animal welfare practices. Uruguay is free of mulesing and the climate is temperate, providing the best conditions for high quality wool production’, says D’jalma Puppo. ‘Estancias Puppo exports directly from farms to customers worldwide. It is important to highlight that we can verify the origin of each wool lot. This data is something that is requested more and more. We provide exact traceability: from farm and conditions of production. GPS coordinates are available on every wool lot,’ Mr Puppo says. Estancias Puppo exports 53% of its wool to China and 47% to Europe. Last season it exported over 2,500,000 kg clean. It offers wool that range from 17-27.0 microns and is very low VM (under 0.3%) with an average dry yield of 77%, and no colored dark fiber or
contaminants of any kind. Proportionally, every year Uruguay produces larger quantities of finer wools. ‘We work with the woolgrowers to ensure that improvements in sorting and labelling are ongoing and we always welcome visits from Asian and European wool buyers interested in seeing our natural wool growing environment for themselves’.
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