Research Book | Book 2 | Ella Ostrouchow

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Introduction

This research book aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of Scandinavian culture, covering various aspects such as their unique way of life, the countries in the region, design principles, and fashion trends.

Understanding the Scandinavian market is crucial to comprehend the preferences and desires of its consumers effectively. By keeping track of the latest developments in this market, I hope to gain insights into Scandinavian consumers’ changing needs and expectations across different sectors, including lifestyle, design, and fashion. This research book will offer an overall view of Scandinavian culture, allowing me to appreciate its subtleties and utilise this knowledge to inform strategic decisions and creative pursuits in my final major project.

What and where is Scandinavia?

The Scandinavian countries are Norway, Denmark, and Sweden. However, depending on whether you are referring to the geographical or cultural context of Scandinavia, Finland and Iceland may also be included. If you are speaking on the latter, then all five countries are involved in Scandinavia due to shared history, traditions, literature, and design. A term often used for all five countries is “Nordic,” which can refer to the geographic and political Nordic region that includes Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Iceland, and Finland. If you are speaking about a specific current geographic or political context, “Scandinavia” refers to the region that includes Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and the Faroe Islands. To include Finland and Iceland in that same context, use the word “Nordic”. For my research, I will be focusing on the Scandinavian countries, which are more relevant to my research. Specifically, I will be focusing on the capitals of Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo, as they have more relevance to fashion and design.

The Scandi way of living

The Scandinavian lifestyle is known for its simplicity, functionality, and strong connection with nature. It is based on several key concepts that stress the importance of simplicity, balance, and a close relationship with nature. The three most popular lifestyle concepts are Hygge, which is the Danish art of cosiness, Lagom, which is the Swedish philosophy of balance, and Friluftsliv, which is the Norwegian approach to connecting with nature.

Hygge

Hygge is a Danish concept that’s difficult to define but involves finding contentment and well-being in life’s simple pleasures. It’s especially valuable during long, dark winters and is seen as a way to nurture resilience and happiness. Scandinavians have many ways of incorporating hygge into their daily lives. Firstly, they opt for soft lighting, such as candles, fairy lights, or warm-toned lamps, to create a cosy atmosphere. Secondly, they add texture with soft blankets, plush cushions, and natural materials like wood and wool for warmth and comfort. Thirdly, they simplify their space by decluttering to create a calming, stress-free environment. Additionally, they embrace connections by inviting loved ones for intimate gatherings, shared meals, and engaging conversations or activities. Finally, they savour the moment with simple pleasures such as reading a good book, sipping a hot beverage, or enjoying their favourite comfort food. These practices embody the essence of hygge, elevating everyday moments into sources of deep contentment and well-being.

Lagom

Lagom is a Swedish concept that emphasises balance, moderation, and the pursuit of the ideal measure in all aspects of life. It promotes a harmonious existence and encourages individuals to find contentment in their surroundings. You achieve lagom by practising mindful consumption by choosing quality over quantity and sustainable products to minimise environmental impact and secondly, prioritising work-life balance by taking care of yourself and setting clear boundaries between work and leisure to avoid burnout. Thirdly, be environmentally conscious by reducing waste, recycling, and making eco-friendly choices. Additionally, cultivate mindfulness through gratitude and being present in each moment. Lastly, pursue personal growth by focusing on continuous self-improvement while recognizing the importance of self-compassion and acceptance of imperfection. By embracing lagom, you can lead a balanced and fulfilling life founded on moderation and contentment.

Friluftsliv

Friluftsliv is a Norwegian concept that emphasises the importance of open-air living and the deep connection Norwegians have with nature. This philosophy encourages exploration and appreciation of the outdoors not just for recreational purposes, but also as a means of maintaining both physical and mental well-being. Friluftsliv acknowledges the restorative qualities of nature, which help people recharge, achieve balance, and experience aweinspiring moments. Many activities embody friluftsliv, including hiking. This activity offers scenic trails, whether local or remote, that allow hikers to immerse themselves in the natural world and all its sights, sounds, and scents while gently exercising. Camping is another popular activity that allows individuals to spend a night under the stars and disconnect from technology to enjoy the tranquillity of the outdoors. Whether camping in a rustic location or enjoying luxurious “glamping,” this activity fosters a unique reconnection with nature’s essence. Friluftsliv is more than just outdoor recreation; it embodies a holistic lifestyle and showcases the profound impact of nature on well-being.

Are they happier and why?

In 2023, Finland was ranked as the happiest country in the world, followed by Denmark in second place, Iceland in third, Sweden in sixth, and Norway in seventh. I am intrigued to know why these countries are the happiest and how they live. Research has revealed that environmental factors contribute 60 to 70 per cent towards the difference in happiness between people, while only 30 to 40 per cent is due to genetics. If genetics isn’t the reason behind their happiness, then what is? According to Professor John F. Helliwell, editor of the World Happiness Report, these countries score high on all six variables: GDP per capita, social support, healthy life expectancy, freedom, generosity, and corruption. However, the Nordics are exceptional in trust and benevolence, both in official institutions and private behaviour. One reason for this is their good government systems. When the government takes care of things like fair pensions, family leave, healthcare, education, and support for those who are ill or unemployed, it leads to more happiness. The World Happiness Report found that these factors, particularly how well the government delivers them, significantly impact people’s happiness. When the government does a good job, it reduces inequality and increases public trust, leading to greater happiness. Trust is the cornerstone of a happy country. When citizens trust both their government and each other, it fosters an overall happier country. The Nordic countries have a good loop: practical and fair systems that give people security, leading to trust in both institutions and fellow citizens, and in turn, the people vote for politicians who deliver a successful welfare model.

Scandinavian fashion has a strong practicality element that’s influenced by both the region’s weather conditions and cycling culture, particularly in Denmark where biking is ubiquitous. This means that clothing needs to be comfortable and functional for daily commutes, leading to a preference for chunky trainers over high heels and comfortable, cosy attire. The hallmark minimalistic aesthetic of Scandinavian fashion also highlights sustainability, encouraging the purchase of timeless basics that can be mixed and matched to create multiple looks. This approach promotes investing in high-quality pieces designed to withstand multiple seasons, especially everyday essentials such as bags, coats, and jackets. Coats, in particular, play a crucial role in Scandinavian wardrobes, not just for style but also for practical warmth. Whether it’s a boldly coloured wool coat or a classic leather aviator jacket, Scandinavian fashion values items that blend practicality, comfort, and sustainability into everyday wear. This conscious approach ensures that every garment serves a purpose, aligning with the region’s ethos of functionality and enduring style. Scandinavian fashion’s practicality reflects the region’s cultural values and weather conditions. With long, cold winters and unpredictable weather, Scandinavian designers focus on creating garments that offer protection against the elements without compromising style.

Practicality

This results in clothing that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, using high-quality materials and craftsmanship to ensure durability. The cycling culture prevalent in cities like Copenhagen and Stockholm has a significant impact on fashion choices. Biking is not just a means of transportation but a way of life, influencing how people dress on a daily basis. Practical considerations such as the need for freedom of movement, comfort, and weather resistance play a crucial role in shaping the Scandinavian style ethos. Scandinavian minimalism extends beyond aesthetics; it’s a lifestyle philosophy that embraces simplicity and sustainability. This mindset is evident in the design ethos of brands such as Acne Studios and Filippa K, which prioritise clean lines, neutral colours, and timeless silhouettes. The emphasis on quality over quantity encourages consumers to invest in fewer but higher-quality pieces, reducing waste and supporting a more sustainable fashion industry. The preference for versatile basics is another key aspect of Scandinavian fashion. Wardrobe staples like well-fitted jeans, classic white shirts, and simple knitwear are considered essential building blocks for creating a functional and stylish wardrobe. By investing in these timeless pieces, individuals can effortlessly curate outfits for various occasions while minimising unnecessary consumption. In addition to its practicality and sustainability, Scandinavian fashion also embodies a sense of understated elegance and confidence. The focus on simplicity allows individuality to shine through subtle details and personal styling choices. Accessorising plays a crucial role in elevating minimalist looks, whether it’s a statement scarf, a sleek leather bag, or bold jewellery.

What is Scandi design?

Scandinavian design is characterised by simplicity, functionality, and beauty, drawing inspiration from nature while maintaining a minimalist and clean aesthetic. To understand this renowned style more deeply, it is essential to explore the works of famous Scandinavian architects. Historically, Scandinavia was not initially recognised for architectural innovation, relying on borrowed historical styles. However, in the early twentieth century, Scandinavian architects began to reject historicism, to shape unique national identities. Each Scandinavian country developed its distinct architectural style, contributing iconic buildings to the global landscape. The Stockholm Exhibition of 1930 marked a turning point, showcasing the principles of Scandinavian design. Prominent architects like Alvar Aalto and Gunnar Asplund introduced the world to simplicity, functionality, and minimalism, defining the Scandinavian aesthetic.

Several influential buildings epitomise Scandinavian architectural excellence. The SAS Royal Hotel in Copenhagen, designed by Danish architect Arne Jacobsen in 1960, exemplifies international modernism with its modular curtain wall and minimalist interiors, including iconic furniture designs like the Swan and Egg chairs. Verner Panton’s Visiona 2 installation in 1970 redefined traditional notions of architecture and interior design, creating a phantasmagorical landscape of colour and form.

The Futuro House, designed by Matti Suuronen in 1968, showcased innovative materials and lightweight construction, reflecting a futuristic vision of living. Notable Scandinavian architects also made their mark globally. Jørn Utzon, a Danish architect, designed the iconic Sydney Opera House, demonstrating a deep connection to nature through organic forms and structures. Finnish brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen designed the Rock Church in Helsinki in 1969, seamlessly integrating the building into its natural surroundings, reflecting the intrinsic relationship between Nordic design and landscape. These architects and their masterpieces continue to inspire and shape the world of architecture, reinforcing Scandinavia’s influence on design.

The link between Interior and fashion design

The connection between Scandinavian design and fashion is multifaceted, drawing inspiration from a rich history of iconic pieces and innovative concepts. Just as iconic furniture designs like Jacobsen’s Egg Chair, Alvar Aalto’s stool designs, and the PH series from the Louis Poulsen collection have left an indelible mark on the world of design, so too have they influenced fashion. These designs, along with bubble hanging chairs by Eero Aarnio, embody the core ideas of Scandinavian design, showcasing a blend of functionality, elegance, and creativity. Within Scandinavian design, there exists a spectrum ranging from minimalist to innovative and playful. While some pieces embrace clean lines and simplicity, others push boundaries with bold experimentation and whimsical forms. Drawing elements from Art Deco, many chairs exhibit creative designs that blur the lines between furniture and art. Some lean towards biomorphic sculptural tendencies, adding an organic touch to their elegant forms. Despite these differences, all designs share a common thread of elegance and sophistication, characterised by simple, flowing lines that present timeless appeal. In the realm of fashion, Scandinavian designers echo these design principles, crafting garments that are both functional and stylish. Drawing inspiration from the comfortable and cosy aspects of Scandinavian living, designers infuse their creations with a sense of hygge, resulting in clothing that is as comforting as it is fashionable.

During Copenhagen colours, prints, amidst the permeates these to draw inspiration wardrobes. In the ensemble, be it through essence lies in enjoying it too seriously. This drawing more people The city’s fashion

Copenhagen Fashion Week, a plethora of vibrant prints, and playful accessories floods the scene. Yet, bold statements, there’s a layer of practicality that looks. It’s a wearability factor that allows everyone inspiration and seamlessly integrate elements into their own the streets of Copenhagen, the focus is on elevating an through striking accessories or a standout coat. The enjoying fashion, infusing a sense of fun, and not taking This laid-back and authentic approach resonates, people to seek inspiration from the street style of CPHFW. fashion scene feels genuinely reflective of its character.

Similar to Copenhagen, London hosts a more intimate fashion week, contributing to the distinctiveness of its street style. London, renowned as a breeding ground for originality, has always been characterised by the prevalence of diverse subcultures. There’s a noticeable resurgence of these subcultures, particularly through the influence of punk and grunge, permeating the streets. This resurgence contributes to the creation of a cool and dynamic environment that resonates with fashion enthusiasts.

Street style during New York Fashion Week exhibits a distinct dressier vibe. In contrast to Copenhagen Fashion Week, where people draw inspiration for everyday wear, New York’s street style makes it challenging to embrace a similar casual approach. The diversity in New York Street style is evident through various aesthetics, with some individuals showcasing more daring fashion choices than others. Nonetheless, there’s a perspective that the absence of a defined aesthetic in New York’s street style contributes to a perceived lack of authenticity.

“CPHFW carries the ideology of being a sustainable fashion event, which is quite different from other cities. The energy and emotion surrounding CPHFW is also very intense and exciting but still super relaxed. Visitors feel very at home, welcomed, and loved by Copenhagen. Unbiased opinion: Copenhagen is filled with great events, food, people, and music!”

“Fashion in Copenhagen has finally gotten its own personality. Sweden is very minimalistic and somehow it became a Scandinavian thing. However, we aren’t really that minimalistic in Denmark. We are more daring in the way that we style ourselves and that has definitely inspired designers new and established to be more daring.”

“We’re asking ourselves what Scandinavian style means today, and the answer is effortless clothing that isn’t overdesigned. It’s also about intimacy, how the garments feel on the body, and timeless, sustainable, ‘real’ products for everyday”

What is the Scandi look?

Ihave been focusing a lot on understanding the phrase ‘The Scandi Look’, as I thought it would give me the answers to create something authentically Scandinavian. However, I now realise that there is no one look to Scandinavian. The ‘Scandi Look’ is a spectrum that varies from architecture to interior designs and fashion. Although something may look inherently Scandinavian, it’s the connection to the culture that gives it the look. For instance, due to the harsh weather conditions in Scandinavian cities, people are forced to wear big coats. However, to express themselves, they choose to wear colourful coats or big fur coats that give them the Scandi look, which is practical for the environment. I have been focusing a lot on understanding the phrase ‘The Scandi Look’, as I thought it would give me the answers to create something authentically Scandinavian. However, I now realise that there is no one look to Scandinavian. The ‘Scandi Look’ is a spectrum that varies from architecture to interior designs and fashion. Although something may look inherently Scandinavian, it’s the connection to the culture that gives it the look. For instance, due to the harsh weather conditions in Scandinavian cities, people are forced to wear big coats. However, to express themselves, they choose to wear colourful coats or big fur coats that give them the Scandi look, which is practical for the environment.

What that’s

What is the story that’s being told?

The story being told through my FMP revolves around the heritage and lifestyle of Scandinavia, particularly Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, celebrated for their natural landscapes and emphasis on well-being. Building upon my prior research exploring why Scandinavian countries consistently rank among the happiest in the world, I am now embarking on a journey to uncover the authentic narrative behind Scandinavian fashion for my project. To achieve this, I recognise the importance of immersing myself in Scandinavian culture and fully grasping its essence. My experience of living and working in Copenhagen has provided invaluable insights into Scandinavian life. Commuting by bike or metro and observing the vibrant social scene on weeknights highlighted the emphasis on work-life balance. The culinary aspect also played a significant role, with healthy lunches incorporating traditional Danish cuisine at the ROTATE office. This lifestyle underscores the Scandinavian philosophy of “working to live, not living to work,” encapsulating the region’s commitment to embracing nature, fostering a relaxed culture, and prioritising well-being. Preserving the authenticity of Scandinavian brands is important in my FMP. I aim to craft an engaging narrative that not only celebrates Scandinavian fashion but also integrates elements of nature and embodies the laid-back yet purposeful lifestyle characteristic of the region. By infusing these cultural aspects into my project, I seek to convey the timeless appeal and unique charm of Scandinavian aesthetics while ensuring a respectful representation of their values.Through storytelling, I intend to capture the essence of Scandinavian heritage and translate it into compelling marketing strategies for the three brands. My goal is to evoke a sense of connection and authenticity, resonating with Gen-Z consumers who appreciate fashion that aligns with their values.

Consumer profile

Combining the consumer profiles of Rotate, Filippa K, and Baum und Pferdgarten, this 20-year-old female consumer embodies a vibrant lifestyle as a third-year university student majoring in graphic design and working part-time as a retail assistant. Her active social life revolves around close-knit gatherings with friends, frequenting parties, and music festivals, and exploring local cafes and restaurants. Passionate about creative pursuits such as photography and graphic design, her fashion style is eclectic and trend-driven, characterised by a love for experimenting with various looks and mixing aesthetics. She gravitates towards contemporary and stylish brands like Rotate, Filippa K, and Baum und Pferdgarten, appreciating their distinct styles that complement her wardrobe. Engaging in both online and in-store shopping, she often browses fashion websites and follows influencers on Instagram and TikTok for inspiration, particularly drawn to emerging designers and staying updated on trends. Highly active on social media platforms like Instagram, she utilises these channels for entertainment. Beyond fashion, she is passionate about music, regularly attends concerts and festivals, and enjoys travelling to new destinations to immerse herself in different cultures, capturing her experiences through photography. Her creative, outgoing, and adventurous personality values self-expression through style and embraces individuality, often exploring new ideas and experiences with her friends.

She gravitates towards Rotate for parties, events, and nightlife, drawn to their bold and glamorous pieces that effortlessly make a statement. For daytime outings like coffee dates or shopping trips, she opts for Filippa K, appreciating their minimalist and timeless designs that blend seamlessly into her casual lifestyle. When it comes to a mix of casual and semi-formal occasions, she incorporates Baum und Pferdgarten into her wardrobe, embracing the brand’s playful yet sophisticated aesthetic. Overall, she embodies the essence of a Gen Z consumer who values creativity, individuality, and diversity in her fashion choices. Her lifestyle and interests inform her preference for brands that not only reflect her style but also allow her to express herself authentically through her clothing.

brands move

Why Scandi brands need to move into the new market

In my previous module, I underscored the critical need for brands to strategically pivot and engage with a new consumer base, specifically targeting Gen-Z. This strategic shift is not about abandoning the current consumer base but rather expanding the brand’s appeal to include and resonate with the emerging Gen-Z demographic. Recognising and adapting to the evolving spending habits of different generations is essential for brands to stay dynamic and competitive in the market. Millennials, now progressing into stages of adulthood such as homeownership and starting families, are directing their disposable income towards significant investments like furniture, home improvements, and family vacations. This shift in spending priorities reflects their changing lifestyle needs and responsibilities. Meanwhile, Gen-Z, characterised by their youthfulness and freedom from major financial commitments like mortgages or childcare, allocate their disposable income towards personal indulgences, experiences, and self-expression through fashion. By focusing on capturing the attention and loyalty of Gen-Z consumers, brands can tap into a demographic with distinct preferences and purchasing behaviours. Gen-Z individuals value authenticity, and individuality in the brands they support. They are digitally native, heavily influenced by social media, and actively seek out unique, personalised experiences. Therefore, adapting marketing strategies and product offerings to resonate with Gen-Z’s values and lifestyle choices is paramount for brands looking to secure future growth and sustainability. The Gen-Z market represents a significant opportunity for brands to innovate, create meaningful connections, and establish long-term relationships with a generation that is poised to become a dominant force in consumer culture. By embracing this demographic shift and aligning with the evolving needs and aspirations of Gen-Z, brands can position themselves strategically for continued success and relevance in the ever-changing marketplace.

Whats Next…

Moving forward, my next steps involve developing tailored marketing strategies for each brand, with a strong focus on effectively engaging the Gen-Z demographic. This will entail creating comprehensive mood boards and planning to conceptualise my ideas. Additionally, I will delve into discussions that highlight the alignment of these concepts with my research findings, ensuring authenticity to each brand’s identity while appealing to a new audience. Building upon my research insights, I will curate mood boards that capture the essence of Scandinavian culture, emphasising key elements such as a deep appreciation for nature, fostering a relaxed atmosphere, and embodying a harmonious balance between work and play. Through brainstorming, I will explore creative ways to infuse these cultural attributes into marketing campaigns, aiming to resonate authentically with Gen-Z consumers. In addition to visual exploration, I will strategically devise methods to reach and engage with a fresh audience. By leveraging the distinct cultural themes of Scandinavian lifestyle, I aim to craft compelling narratives and visuals that not only attract new customers but also strengthen brand loyalty among existing ones. To clarify the vision for my project, I seek to produce final images that reflect the core values of Scandinavian culture. These images will embody a profound respect for nature, evoke a sense of tranquillity and leisure in their atmosphere, and encapsulate the seamless integration of work and play. Through this cohesive approach, I aspire to create impactful marketing materials that authentically resonate with both the brands’ identities and the evolving preferences of Gen-Z consumers in today’s dynamic marketplace.

References

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CONTI, S. (2024, Jan 23). Filippa K RTW Fall 2024. Retrieved from WWD: https://wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2024/paris/filippa-k/review/

EMBRACING THE SCANDINAVIAN LIFESTYLE: A JOURNEY INTO NORDIC SIMPLICITY AND COZINESS. (n.d.). Retrieved from Project Nord: https:// projectnord.com/blogs/scandinavian-nordic-design-blog/scandinavian-lifestyle

Fiell, C. (n.d.). Modern Scandinavian Design. Laurence King Publishing.

FITZPATRICK, E. (2024, Jan 21). 25 Years Later, This Is Still Copenhagen’s Most Influential Fashion Brand. Retrieved from Who What Wear: https:// www.whowhatwear.com/baum-und-pferdgarten-interview

MOHAMMED, H. (2024, Feb 5). Copenhagen Calls It the Season of Sex, Cowboys and Uniforms. Retrieved from WWD: https://wwd.com/ fashion-news/fashion-features/copenhagen-trends-sex-cowboys-uniforms-1236164945/

Mountford, J. (2024, Feb 6). Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24 key trends. Retrieved from Fashion United: https://fashionunited.uk/news/ fashion/copenhagen-fashion-week-fw24-key-trends/2024020573963

Mountford, J. (2024, Feb 6). Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24 key trends. Retrieved from Fashion United: https://fashionunited.uk/news/ fashion/copenhagen-fashion-week-fw24-key-trends/2024020573963

NORMAN, R. T. (2024, January). Where is Scandinavia? A Guide to the Scandinavian Countries. Retrieved from Scandinavian Standard: https://www.scandinaviastandard.com/where-is-scandinavia-a-guide-to-the-scandinavian-countries/

Saunders, T. (2024, March 21). The top 10 happiest countries in the world 2024. Retrieved from Science Focus: https://www.sciencefocus. com/science/the-top-10-happiest-countries-in-the-world

Spratley, B. (2024). COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK F/W 2024 EARTHLINGS, ALIENS AND EVERYONE IN BETWEEN. Retrieved from Metal: https://metalmagazine.eu/post/copenhagen-fashion-week-aw-2024-earthlings-aliensand-everyone-in-between

TEATHER, C. (2024, Feb 7). 6 trends from the Copenhagen Fashion Week runways that’ll transform your 2024 wardrobe. Retrieved from Glamour: https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/copenhagen-fashion-week-trends-aw24

Valdimars, J. F. (n.d.). Style News. (Flannels, Interviewer)

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