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E L I TE 時 尚 精 英

Michelangelo 神性的回聲

Hsiao-Hung Lin 幸運的使命

Gianni Tarabini & Franco Aliberti 從農場、牧原到餐桌 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

Jennifer Ouellette 頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

美妝護膚 時尚趨勢 雅宅品鑑 家居巧思 理財規劃

trends 2018 SPRING

ISSUE 30

春季流行趨勢

January-February 2018 $6.99


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目錄 CONTENTS

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Editor’ s Note 採編隨筆

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Editor’s Picks for Her

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Editor’s Picks for Him

女士禮物精選 男士禮物精選

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Hot New Beauty Items

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Rosy Winter Look

護膚美妝新品 玫紅妝點亮冬季

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Rejuvenating Skin Boosters 養護佳品 讓肌膚煥發光彩

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2018 Spring Trends 禮服造型 細節配飾 The Tradition of Patek Philippe 百達翡麗的堅持:傳統.創新.美感

The Art and Business of a Manhattan Milliner 曼哈頓頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

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Preserving and Practicing a Lost Classical Art 幸運的使命: 神韻領舞演員林孝紘

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The Divine Creative Process of Michelangelo 神性的回聲

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From Farm and Field, to the Table

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A Luxury Red Wine from Above the Clouds

從農場、牧原到餐桌 來自雲端的葡萄酒「敖雲」

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Tea Fit for Royalty 都市裡的水晶宮

COVER

People: Hsiao-Hung Lin Photographer: Larry Dai Makeup and Hair: Annie Li

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68

Living Screen House 綠意盎然的環保私宅

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Bring Spring Indoors 巧思打造盎然春意


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序 EDITOR’S NOTE

Finding Peace 內心的寧靜

In the twinkle of an eye, another year has passed as we bid farewell to 2017 and welcome 2018. Like a coursing river, time rushes forth ceaselessly. Caught in this torrent, we race forward, chasing after milestones in the distance. Our minds are forced to adapt to ever-changing circumstances. Our hearts are mired in turbulence. Enveloped by our dazzling, fast-paced, and bustling surroundings, we turn inward in search of purity, slowness, and tranquility—qualities epitomized by the individuals featured in this issue. Hsiao-Hung Lin, pictured on the cover, embodies this intrinsic purity. Since coming from Taiwan to join Shen Yun Performing Arts in New York, she has blossomed into an effortlessly graceful young woman as she tours the globe showcasing the exquisite art of classical Chinese dance.

her beautiful, hand-crafted hats. Despite metamorphosing trends and styles, she holds firmly to tradition, immersed in a life of both simplicity and splendor. This edition of Elite Lifestyle spotlights individuals who have devoted their lives to the consummation of their crafts. We hope their stories can fill your heart with peace.

彈 指一 揮 間,時光 又溜走 一 年。冬 季 的 暖 陽中,我們 告別2017,迎來2018。 時 間 如 洪流 般 奔 波不息,被 挾裹 著,人們 不由自主地 總在追趕著什麼。變,難以避免,心,似乎靜不小來。 眩目、高速和喧囂的周遭環境裡,恰恰是淨、慢、靜, 更加讓人動容。 「 淨」如 本 期 封 面 人物 林 孝 紘。她 正 處青 春 年 華,有

Michelangelo Buonarroti, the revered “Il Divino” (the Divine One), exemplifies slowness. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is temporarily exhibiting a large number of his drawings, including studies he drew prior to painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling, which would take him four years of painstaking effort to complete. For his entire life, Michelangelo pursued a more beautiful realm within his art. Revelations of divine miracles, his artwork has awakened faith and moved hearts around the world, one generation after the next.

一 顆 清 澄 的「 少女心 」。從台灣,到 紐 約,再 到 全 球 巡 演,時光如錦 繡 般在 她 身上交 織,她出落為一 位青 春 洋 溢,婷婷玉 立的 神 韻 舞蹈 演員。「 慢 」如米 開朗 基羅,他曾用整整四年時間完成了西斯廷大教 堂的壁 畫。終其一 生,米 開 朗 基 羅 藉由藝 術,追 尋 著 生命更 美 好 的境界。他在 雕 塑和 壁 畫 裡,展現 著神 蹟,警 醒 並打動著世人,一代又一代。「 靜 」如身處曼哈頓中城 幾十 年 的Jennifer Ouellette。她 身處 鬧市,卻內心 恬 淡。周遭 環 境一再 變 化,卻 擋不住 她 對手工 製 帽 的 熱 情。歲 月流 轉中,一 路 堅 持 傳 統 製 帽工藝 的 她,活 得輕鬆自然,更添風華。

The milliner Jennifer Ouellette epitomizes tranquility. Despite her clamorous, bustling New York City surroundings, her inner being is quiet and content, as timeless as

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本期《時尚精英》聚焦這些用時光雕琢藝術的人們。期 許他們的故事能帶給您一份內心的寧靜。


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PUBLISHER Ellen Wang EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer Zhang EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD CHAIR Dana Cheng, Ph.D. SALES DIRECTOR Jo Yang EVENT AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Lei Xi ART DIRECTOR Robert Counts

Address 229 W 28th Street, 6FL, New York, NY 10001 Phone 646-862-9930 Email editor@elite-magazine.com advertising@elite-magazine.com subscription@elite-magazine.com www.elite-magazine.com San Francisco Ke Bian 510-299-4392 ke.bian@elite-magazine.com Los Angeles Yan Lieser 818-836-2937 yan.lieser@elite-magazine.com Boston Timothy Pi 617-388-1688 timothy.pi@elite-magazine.com Seattle Echo Liu 425-877-5121 echo.liu@elite-magazine.com Ben Ruan 425-449-3620 ben.ruan@elite-magazine.com Dallas Amy Hu 214-682-7788 amy.hu@elite-magazine.com

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PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Chen Fu SENIOR DESIGNERS Ingrid Longauerova, Justin Morgan, Hsinyu Lo DESIGNERS Tan Zhao, Rachel Lu, Tz-si Chen SPECIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS Daniel Ulrich, Benjamin Chasteen, Xuehui Zhang CORRESPONDENTS Irene Luo, Pia-Maria Norris, Yi-Chun Lin, Crystal Shi, Qingyin Zhang, Xinyu Luo, Janet Ma, Ying Han TRANSLATOR Yi Ming COPY EDITORS Connie Phillips, Huixuan Yang FASHION EDITOR Many Ngom BEAUTY EDITOR Pia-Maria Norris PEOPLE EDITOR Janet Ma ARTS & CULTURE EDITOR Dana Cheng, Ph.D. BUSINESS EDITOR Hong Wang HOME EDITOR Fenzhi Zhang FOOD & DINING EDITOR Channaly Philipp


FINE CHINESE PAINTINGS & WORKS OF ART CONSIGNMENT INVITED THROUGHOUT THE YEAR Please email photos to: info@dynasty.nyc 常年全球徵集拍品 中國名家書畫 瓷器雜項珠寶 專家免費鑑定 高價收購拍賣 請電郵圖片至 info@dynasty.nyc

www.dynasty.nyc 135 WEST 29TH ST, 1201 10001 USA NEW YORK NY 10010 +1 917 687 3693


ELITE FASHION

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Editor’s Picks For Her By Many Ngom 1 5

Go Green with these beautiful, verdant essentials that will start your spring with peace and serenity. 春季來臨時,換 上 這些如春草般翠綠的單品, 讓新春的著裝多一份恬靜之美。

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1 DOUBLE-BREASTED WOOL TRENCH COAT, VALENTINO, $4,900, MATCHESFASHION.COM | 2 FINE CARVED TRIANGULAR GREEN JADEITE & 18K YELLOW GOLD & DIAMOND DROP EARRINGS, MASON-KAY JADE, $10,630, MASONKAY.COM 3 SATIN PUMPS, TOM FORD, $1,290, TOMFORD.COM | 4 CELESTIAL MELODY PIPA SILK SCARF, SHEN YUN SHOP, $150, SHOP.SHENYUN.COM | 5 TOURBILLONS VASE, LALIQUE, $6,500, LALIQUE.COM | 6 HAPPY SPORT MEDIUM AUTOMATIC JOAILLERIE WATCH, CHOPARD, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM

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Editor’s Picks For Him

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An elegant combination of style and color, these items reflect a down-to-earth attitude. 穩重、成熟的男仕服飾往往具有永不過時的時尚 品格。編輯嚴選的以下單品,無論在造型還是顏 色上,都散發著從容淡定的紳士氣息。

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1 LEATHER ABBOT BACKPACK FEATURING BALLY LOGO, BALLY, $1,590, BALLY.COM | 2 DRAGON PASSPORT HOLDER, SHANGHAI TANG, $189, SHANGHAITANG.COM | 3 L.U.C XP URUSHI YEAR OF THE DOG WATCH, CHOPARD, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM | 4 DRAGON JEWELRY BOX IN NATURAL EBONY, LALIQUE, $7,200, LALIQUE.COM 5 MEN’S CLASSIC CHAIN 18K GOLD & SILVER SMALL REVERSIBLE BRACELET, JOHN HARDY, $2,900, JOHNHARDY.COM 6 MERINO WOOL CARDIGAN WITH FROG BUTTONS, SHANGHAI TANG, $587, SHANGHAITANG.COM

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HOT NEW

BEAUTY ITEMS 護膚美妝新品 By Pia-Maria Norris

1. SULWHASOO CONCENTRATED GINSENG RENEWING CREAMY MASK (5 SHEETS) The world’s first cream-textured sheet mask! Infused with the anti-aging power of ginseng, this innovative mask helps provide intensive moisture and improve the skin’s firmness, radiance, and clarity. ($120 for 5 sheets, us.sulwhasoo.com) 蘊含珍貴人參精華,可提升肌膚水潤亮澤,煥活清透彈性,讓肌膚綻放緊緻透亮光采。 面膜質感綿密柔滑,肌膚感覺水漾輕盈,敷用過程亦輕鬆舒適。

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2. CLÉ DE PEAU

3. GLO SKIN BEAUTY

THE FOUNDATION

DAILY POWER C+

A lightweight, rejuvenating, and radiance-boosting foundation that

An age-defying antioxidant serum that brightens, strengthens, and

blurs imperfections while also moisturizing and retexturizing the

repairs the skin through a powerful dose of Vitamin C and peptides.

skin, leaving it fabulously even-toned and luminous.

($130, gloskinbeauty.com)

($250, cledepeaubeaute.com)

富含維生素C 和Peptide的抗衰護膚精華,可以有效修護並提亮肌膚。

遮瑕效果良好的一款粉底,令肌膚色澤均勻、滋潤嫩滑。遮瑕的 同時,可滋潤煥活肌膚,改善肌理並修復環境對肌膚的損傷, 帶來豔光四射的光滑遮瑕效果。

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ROSY

WINTER LOOK 玫紅妝點亮冬季 By Pia-Maria Norris

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1. LANEIGE

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TWO TONE LIPSTICK IN 3 PINK SALMON Unique, dual-color lipstick for a perfect, gradient lip shade. ($27, sephora.

com) 2. CLÉ DE PEAU

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POWDER BLUSH DUO IN 103 PEACH TULIP Moisturizing powder blush for fresh, radiant cheeks. ($90

with case, cledepeaubeaute.com) 3. STILA

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CONVERTIBLE COLOR IN PETUNIA Creamy, sheer lip and cheek tint for a natural glow.

($25, stilacosmetics.com) 4/5. CHANTECAILLE

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CHEEK GELÉE IN SHADES HAPPY AND LIVELY Hydrating liquid gel-cream for

cheeks (and eyes). ($41, chantecaille.com) 6. DONORE BEAUTY

- LIP AND CHEEK POD IN PRETTY IN PINK Creamy, vegan lip and

cheek color. ($32, donorebeauty.com) 7. CHANTECAILLE - BRILLIANT GLOSS IN SHADES ENCHANT AND PIXIE Non-sticky, vegetable-based plumping lip gloss. ($36, chantecaille.com) 8. BURBERRY - FRESH GLOW HIGHLIGHTER IN 03 PINK PEARL Illuminating face powder in a sheer, pink pearly shade. ($68, us.burberry.com)

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REJUVENATING

SKIN BOOSTERS 養護佳品 讓肌膚煥發光彩 By Pia-Maria Norris

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LIPS 1. CLÉ DE PEAU - LIP SERUM Anti-aging, hydrating lip serum. ($95, cledepeaubeaute.com) 2. LANEIGE - LIP SLEEPING MASK

Moisturizing overnight lip mask. ($20, sephora.com) EYES 3. SULWHASOO

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SNOWISE BRIGHTENING EYE SERUM Brightening

gel eye serum with a cooling massage applicator. ($72, us.sulwhasoo.com) 4. CLÉ DE PEAU

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CONCENTRATED BRIGHTENING EYE

SERUM Moisturizing and brightening eye serum. ($125, cledepeaubeaute.com) NECK 5. AMORE PACIFIC - LINE REVOLUTION FIRMING NECK CREME Firming, anti-aging neck cream. ($185, us.amorepacific.com)

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DRY SKIN 6. LANEIGE

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WATER SLEEPING MASK Hydrating and calming overnight gel mask. ($25, sephora.com) TEXTURE

AND PORES 7. SKINCEUTICALS - RETINOL 1.0 Maximum-strengthening night cream with 1% pure retinol. ($76, skinceuticals.com)

8. SK INCEUTICA LS -R ETEXTURING ACTIVATOR Oil-free resurfacing and exfoliating serum. ($80, skinceuticals.com) 9. RÉVIVE - LE POLISH MICRO-RESURFACING TREATMENT Exfoliating and retexturing cream cleanser. ($125, reviveskincare.com) 10. RÉVIVE

- PORE CORRECTIF Pore-reducing and repairing serum. ($235, reviveskincare.com)

11. RÉVIVE

- GLYCOLIC RENEWAL

PEEL PROFESSIONAL SYSTEM Two-step glycolic acid peel system for safe at-home use. ($295, reviveskincare.com)

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Text & Style Editor: Many Ngom Makeup and Hair: Kevin Cheah Model: Sherry Q Photographer: Daniel Ulrich / OURSTUDIO

CAMELIA RUFFLE DRESS BY MARKARIAN


ELITE FASHION

LAVENDER TAKEOVER Designers are hinting that the famous pink will be replaced by another hue: Lavender is ta king over the runways this season. The elegant color fits practically everyone. To celebrate this look, opt for a feminine dress “à la Markarian.”

這一季很多設計師作品紛紛暗示——粉紅色將會被另 一種顏色取代。那就是占領伸展臺的本季流行色——薰 衣草紫!「 薰衣草紫 」天然具有治癒功能,讓人感覺舒 適愉悅的同時,另有一種淡雅的浪漫氣息。

ALICE + OLIVIA, KYLIE LONG EASY SHAWL COLLAR JACKET, $485, ALICEANDOLIVIA.COM NINA RICCI, RUFFLE TRIM DRESS, $2,531, FARFETCH.COM AQUAZZURA, NATHALIE 105 SANDALS, $646, FARFETCH.COM HERMÈS, MULTIPLIS CLUTCH IN EVERCOLOR CALFSKIN, $3,575, HERMES.COM CHOPARD, IMPERIALE 36 MM TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND DIAMOND WATCH, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN MAGIC CUT LONG DROP EARRINGS WITH PINK SHEEN SAPPHIRE, $1,995, JOHNHARDY.COM JOHN HARDY, LEGENDS NAGA MEDIUM FLEX CUFF, $1,195, JOHNHARDY.COM

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ASTER EMBROIDERED LONG DRESS WITH MATCHING PANT BY MARKARIAN


SAY IT WITH FLOWERS For this spring, florals take on a new look. This elegant dress by Markarian is sprigged with embroidered f lowers, giving it a three-dimensional feel. Pair it with accessories reminiscent of the blooming season.

「 春神來了怎知道?」「 梅花黃鶯報到!」如同我們熟悉 的歌謠所唱,秀妍嬌媚的花蕊就是春季換新貌的最佳 代言人。今春,花朵將會在時尚單品中以更飄逸與女性 化的方式出現。

MARKARIAN, THERESE EMBROIDERED DRESS, $2,795, MARKARIAN-NYC.COM DELPOZO, EMBELLISHED MINI MOON CLUTCH, $1,800, MODAOPERANDI.COM DELPOZO, EMBELLISHED SANDALS, $1,100, MODAOPERANDI.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K VINE AMULET EARRINGS WITH ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND, $5,300, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K ARCADIA RING WITH RUBY, $1,500, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K ARCADIA BRACELET WITH RUBY, $6,950, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM

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JACKET BY THEORY FRINGE DRESS BY ELIZABETH AND JAMES


FULL SWING The f r inge trend is get ting bolder, w ith f uller a nd long er f r i ng e s t a k i ng t he s t a ge . Up grade your LBD by adding some movement to it . A dec a dent c a sc a de of f r i nge ma ke s you r dress an ultimate item for any cocktail par ty.

本季,只消在裙擺衣緣裝飾流蘇,就能輕易打造 Boho 風。以往這種打扮多見於冬季派對,然而現在流蘇潮流 已經悄悄攻占春夏飾品、衣著、珠寶,既時髦又貴氣。

KARL LAGERFELD, SUMMER TUXEDO BLAZER, $455, KARL.COM RAEY, LONG-FRINGE SLIP DRESS, $424, MATCHESFASHION.COM AKRIS, ANOUK ENVELOPE BAG, $2,690, AKRIS.CH TOM FORD, SATIN PUMPS, $1,290, TOMFORD.COM PHILLIP GAVRIEL, 14K GOLD 3 MM LARIAT X WOVEN DIAMOND NECKLACE, $1,950, PHILLIPGAVRIEL.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN 18K GOLD HINGED DIAMOND BANGLE, $7,500, JOHNHARDY.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN 18K GOLD SMALL HOOP DIAMOND EARRINGS, $3,000, JOHNHARDY.COM

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DRESS BY AKRIS | SHOULDER BAG BY AKRIS SUEDE PUMPS BY FRATELLI ROSSETTI


TREND LETTER Amid the logo frenzy, some brands, like Akris, have t a ken a qu iet er approa ch t o d isplay ing theirs on their collection. Spor t your favorite letter on a handbag or a jacket for a city vibe.

Logo 熱 潮正式來臨!眾多品牌如 Akris,已經懂得如 何將品牌 標 識神不知、鬼不覺的展示在他們新一季 設 計上。對時尚業者而言,Logo 與服飾的結合需要每季 都有新鮮感,這簡直已成為時尚圈的基本常識。

AKRIS, RED KNIT DRESS, $2,390, AKRIS.CH DELPOZO, CAPE JACKET, $2,600, MODAOPERANDI.COM AKRIS, CHERVOCALF LEATHER HANDBAG, $2,190, AKRIS.CH HERMÈS, CALFSKIN SANDALS, $820, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME ROSE GOLD RING, $2,350, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME SILVER ROUND RING, $455, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME SILVER SQUARE RING, $455, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, EVER CHAINE D’ANCRE EARRINGS IN ROSE GOLD, $2,475, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, SWIFT CALFSKIN LEATHER BRACELETS, $470, HERMES.COM │25


JACKET BY THEORY | SEQUIN SKIRT BY ALICE + OLIVIA


SHINE BRIGHT The fa shion world is obsessed w ith spark le . Th i s spr i ng , d ay t i me d re s si ng w i l l a l so i nv ol v e s e q u i n s! T h i s b e a ut i f u l A l ic e + Oliv ia sk ir t su m s up t he lat e st r u nway trend s.

最近時尚圈已經被「 閃亮亮 」圈粉無數,各家品牌的伸 展 臺無 不將亮片工藝展現得淋 漓盡 致。從白晝開始就 以亮片裝打造明豔動人,無疑是 2018 春季的重要潮流 之一!

ALICE + OLIVIA, SEBASTIAN SCRUNCH SLEEVES BLAZER, $395, ALICEANDOLIVIA.COM EMILIO PUCCI, PRINTED TANK, $830, FARFETCH.COM MARY KATRANTZOU, SILVER SIGMA SEQUIN MIDI SKIRT, $1,490, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM AKRIS, TRI-COLOR METALLIC CHERVOCALF LEATHER BAG, $1,190, AKRIS.CH BRUNO MAGLI, SABRINA OPEN TOE SUEDE HEELS WITH VAMP DETAILING, $450, BRUNOMAGLI.COM JOHN HARDY, CLASSIC CHAIN STUD GRAY SAPPHIRE EARRINGS, $695, JOHNHARDY.COM HERMÈS, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME CUFF IN SILVER, $5,400, HERMES.COM

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ELITE PEOPLE

曼哈頓頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

THE ART AND BUSINESS OF A MANHATTAN MILLINER

English Text by Isabelle Kellogg and Sharon Kilarski Chinese Text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Benjamin Chasteen

Jennifer Ouellette with a collection of her handmade hats at her studio in New York.

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illiner Jennifer Ouellette has managed to stitch together the best of old and new business practices—a challenging pursuit when practicing one of fashion’s oldest art forms. She’s combined a concern for the environment and the livelihood of her staff with painstaking, traditional craftsmanship. The results are hats that seem to transcend time. The only millinery currently producing in Manhattan’s garment district, Ouellette’s studio takes customers back to an era when society ladies never left home without a hat and a pair of gloves. The workshop, designed and decorated to resemble a retro boutique, holds surprises in every corner. A collection of carved wooden hat blocks (molds) is stacked all around, with some lining antique shelves of wrought iron. An enormous wooden sign from the early 1900s, carved with the word “Millinery,” hangs on one of the walls. Spools of ribbon and boxes overflowing with trims and headbands checker the room, and parked on a shelf near the entrance are a dozen vintage German sewing machines used for hat making. The setting fits perfectly with the work process, as the staff still uses manual couture sewing techniques that have been passed down for generations. Each hat

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手工製帽師 Jennifer Ouellette 的工作室位於曼哈頓 中城。歲月更迭,她在繁華多變的紐約堅守著這片手工 帽的綠洲。在 這 裡,她不僅要應 對時 尚 行業的種種 挑 戰,亦要延 續手工 製 帽 的傳統,此 外還要兼 顧 製 帽 團 隊的工作環境與生活起居。 一直以 來,Jennifer Ouellette 都 在嘗 試傳統 的 精忠實藝與新穎的商管策略結合一體。在「 手工製帽 」 這個傳統行業中,這是一個極具挑戰的目標。幾十年如 一日的堅 持,Jennifer 不僅 擁有 著 穩定的 鐵桿顧 客, 同時 有諸多高級百貨 的銷售通 道。她 旗 下出品的手工 帽不僅用料做工精良,且有一種永不過時的優雅品質, 可以說件件堪稱傳家珍品。 身 為 曼 哈 頓 成 衣 區 唯 一 的 手 工 製 帽 工 作 室, Jennifer Ouellette 為上門拜訪的顧客提供獨一無二 的懷舊氛圍,讓人感到穿越到了那些 細 緻而富麗的年 代。柔韌滑順的草編帽、兔絨般輕暖的喀什米爾羊毛、 錦緞製成的髮帶與各色配件,一圈圈的緞帶與盒子連 同裁刀、髮帶漫溢在桌上,自成一格。低調靜置一旁的

Above: The Jennifer Ouellette studio is the only millinery currently producing in Manhattan’s garment district. It takes customers back to an era when society ladies never left home without a hat and a pair of gloves.


takes two to three hours to construct. Each is steamed by hand, then shaped over one of the myriad carved oak blocks. Folds and creases are made using a strong cord that is tied over the different shapes of each wood block and then removed before the hat is enhanced with trims and decorations. All of the decorative details are created in-house. In hopes of preserving the traditional, labor-intensive methods, Ouellette is planning to turn her workshop into a living museum for tours and lectures.

還有德國製 造的古董裁 縫機。製帽師的看家工具—— 各種 造 型與尺寸的製 帽模 型檯,更是 隨 處可見 ...... 工 作室內的每一處角落都令人驚喜。 琳 琅滿目之餘,牆上 懸 掛 一 幀巨型木 製 橫 幅,上 面利落大方地寫道:製帽師。僅僅三字,足見一名職人 對於自家手 藝 的自信與肯 定。工作室 裡 的 每 一 擺 設, 都是店內師傅運用代代相傳的縫製 技術,完美製帽過 程的縮影。每一頂帽子會需要兩至三小時的結構打樣, 經過人工熨燙後,套進橡木製的模型檯上塑型。 Jennifer Ouellette 為了保存製帽技術與尖端人 工的需求,正著手將工作室改造為可供參訪與導覽, 「生

CLASSIC YET FRESH DESIGNS CATCH ON Despite the vintage appeal, Ouellette’s designs seem fresh and innovative, hearkening to an era of sophistication rather than following current fads and fashion trends. “Each of our hats is a timeless design and becomes part of our customer’s style and permanent wardrobe,” she said. Ouellette started her hat business in 1996 in New York and quickly found a following of hat lovers and hat-loving retailers and boutiques for her millinery sculptures, headbands, and half-hat fascinators. She branched into the bridal market a few years later.

氣蓬勃 」的當代博物館。 歷久彌新:經典款式與活潑設計並存 雖然店裡 的 帽樣 顯 得老 味道,但出自 Ouellette 的成 品 卻 仍 保 有 新 鮮、獨 創 的 設 計感。因為工作室 認為, 與其追 趕 時 尚 潮流,不如聆聽昔時細 緻 工藝的教 誨。 Jennifer Ouellette 甜 笑 表 示: 「 從 這 裡出品的每一 頂帽子,設計感永不凋零,它們會成為擁有者的日常部 分,並且在衣物間裡占有一席之地!」 1996 年起,Ouellette 在紐約展開了製帽生意, 並且快速地挖掘到一群帽子熱愛者與醉心於製帽的裁

Each of our hats is a timeless design and becomes part of our customer’s style and permanent wardrobe.” Jennifer Ouellette

Now she is a steady supplier of hats to Barneys, with the sweet spot for her hats at $300. They can go for as high as $1,000, and have been worn by celebrities including Katie Holmes, Debra Messing, and Reese Witherspoon. Nature and history inspire her designs. The tilted pagoda-shaped City Scape Headpiece was designed after 9/11 as a “tribute to the resilience of NYC.” Her mentor, British master milliner Stephen Jones, selected the piece to be included in an exhibit he curated, “Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones,” that showed in 2009 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Bard Graduate Center Gallery in New York, and the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts.

縫師,還有對她設計的帽型結構、髮帶、華美禮帽感興 趣的精品店。因此,Ouellette 憑藉高超的製帽技藝, 很快就打入了婚紗設計市場。目前,Ouellette 是精品 百貨 Barneys 的 穩 定供 貨 商,旗 下 帽 款價 格 從 300 至 1000 美 金不 等,著名 演 員 凱蒂.荷 姆 斯、奧 斯 卡 影后 瑞 絲.薇 斯朋、女星 黛 博 拉.梅辛 都是 該品 牌 的 愛用代表。 九一一事件之後,Ouellette 曾為此製作紀念款: Straw City Scape Headpiece,草編帽造型是傾斜 的塔蓋,帽上飾 有翳入 天 聽大樓、房屋與象徵寧 靜 紐 約公園的綠樹,充滿作者對於紐約市的哀慟與憐惜。英 國製帽傳奇 Stephen Jones 將其選入 2009 年特展: 「Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones」,在倫 敦、紐約、麻州展覽。

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COMFORTABLE BY DESIGN For 20 years—starting before it was fashionable to do so—Ouellette has been dedicated to creating a fair-trade brand. To accomplish this goal, all of her products had to be created in-house to guarantee the quality of the manufacturing techniques as well as the conditions for her workers. Ouellette sources the highest quality, sustainable materials, preferring natural fabrics and materials like felt and straw over synthetics. Trims and grosgrain ribbons are sourced from Switzerland. Meltingly soft rabbit hair felt from the Czech Republic is like ultra-thick cashmere. Whenever possible, the hats are hand- and machine-sewn instead of glued—hence the collection of specialty machines. Ouellette doesn’t use stiffener or chemicals for sizing, a common practice throughout the industry. “I prefer not to use chemicals on the hats. The result is that my hats are usually softer and feel more natural. They feel better when you put them on,” she said. Eight hat couturiers work in the Manhattan atelier; another 12 are based in the Dominican Republic. Years ago, while working with many Dominicans in the hat industry in New York, Ouellette had learned that the Dominican Republic was losing its apparel industry to Haiti and China. “I discovered this amazing available labor pool,” she said. “I seized the opportunity to create a sustainable business.” Ouellette believes U.S. businesses have been reluctant to branch out to places where labor laws are strictly enforced. Most fashion manufacturers consider minimum wage and required benefits too expensive in the Dominican Republic. But Ouellette saw it as an opportunity to build a fair-trade business. Her studio is centrally located in Santiago, “the heart of the country’s commerce, where the people are well-known for their craftsmanship and handiwork,” she said. Because the millinery business requires specific techniques and skilled handiwork, it requires “a steady and conscientious team.” In addition, her design methods are unique to the industry and “far from fast fashion.” Both are time-consuming to teach and to learn. It can sometimes take several seasons for new staff members to learn techniques, since the work differs depending on the time of year. “Training new workers is a mutual investment,” she said. 36│

頂級材質:捨不得換下的舒適感 早在「 公平交易 」的思潮流行以前,Ouellette 已經力 行二十年。為了完成目標,自 Ouellette 旗下出產的每 一商品,都需要在工作室內完成,以確保品質無虞與工 作夥伴的身心狀態。 Ouellette 選擇最高品質、耐用的材料,尤其鍾情 天然纖維如毛氈、麻料,勝過合成纖維。滾邊、羅紋織 帶來自瑞士;如兔 絨 般柔軟 得幾乎 化掉的頂級喀什米 爾羊毛來自捷克共和國。 此外,Ouellette 盡可能以手工或機器縫紉取代上 膠,工作室也因此搜集了不少特殊用途的機器。固定帽 子的形狀時,也不似一 般 工 廠使用硬化劑或其他化學 物質。Jennifer Ouellette 解釋: 「 我比較不傾向使用 化學物品於 帽子上。這麼 做的結果 就是店裡 的帽子會 相對地柔軟、觸感自然,當你戴上時更是如此。」 寬厚管理:有捨才有得 除了在曼哈頓的工作室擁有不少頂級製帽師,Jennifer Ouellette 另在多明尼 加共和 國擁 有自己的 製 帽工作 坊。多年以前,當 Jennifer Ouellette 在 紐 約與多明 尼加 的工廠合作時,她已經逐 漸感到相對於海 地與中 國,多明尼加不再具有服裝產業的優勢。 「 但我 發 現 那 裡 有 著 驚人 的 充沛勞 動 資 源,於 是 我抓住 這個機會製 造了穩定發展的商機。」Jennifer Ouellette 感到美國企業一 般不會想在勞工法律確實 實 施 的 地 方 進 行 投 資, 多 數 時 尚 流 行 產 業 認 為 在 多 明 尼 加 設 廠 的 最 低 薪 資 與 獲 利 的 成 本 太 昂 貴。 但 是 Jennifer Ouellette 反其道而行,視此正是發展公平 交易的 好 機 會。此 外,Ouellette 還 在 聖 地 牙哥 設 立 了工作室,她認為: 「 這裡是國家的商業重鎮,能在此 發展的人都以其技藝與工藝品聞名。」 由 於 手工 製 帽 業 需 要 特 殊 的 技 術 與 高 超 的 手 工,Ouellette 便 需 要 穩 定 而 縝 密 的 團 隊。 再 者, Ouellette 的設計方法有別於工 廠製作與一 般時尚 潮 流,需要相當 時 間 培養與學 習。假 設 工作內容 不同, 有 的 新進 員 工 在 一 年之中 還 會 需 要 花 上 幾 季 學 習 技 術,「 新員 工 的 教 育 訓 練 是 一項 長 期 投 資 」,對 她 而 言,員工已 經 是 生活中密不 可分 的 夥 伴,他們值得 擁 有公平的薪水。 Ouellette 笑言: 「 如果不這麼 做的 話,我在半夜 會睡不著!」不僅如此,Ouellette 認為: 「 對我而言, 和工作同仁保 持良 好關係、愉 悅 的工作環 境 是非常重 要的。至今,最後招募員工已經是三年前的事了,而我 與第一批工作夥伴已經合作二十年!」 此 中 商 道, 一 如 Jennifer Ouellette 的 官 網 上 所寫: 「 我們 的 製 帽 哲學 是 以積 極 正向 的心情與 精神 工作,那麼收獲便是為顧 客與同仁帶來平 衡與和 諧的 感受。」


ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

Working so closely with her staff, Ouellette considers her employees to be colleagues and pays them a fair salary. “I couldn’t sleep at night if I didn’t,” she said. “It’s important to me to create positivity within my coworkers and develop a pleasant work environment. The last group of new hires was three years ago, and I still have my first employee working with me after 20 years!” she said. As her website states, “Our philosophy is to work with a positive mind and spirit so that our work brings a sense of balance and harmony to our customers and staff.”

Clockwise: Georgina Sanchez, who has been working in the garment district for more than 40 years, uses a sewing machine that is over 100 years old at the Jennifer Ouellette studio. Antique wooden hat blocks, used to shape hats, line the shelves at the Jennifer Ouellette studio. Jennifer Ouellette puts hats on display at her studio in New York. Each hat from the Jennifer Ouellette studio is steamed by hand, then shaped over one of the myriad carved oak blocks. In general, it takes two to three hours to construct a hat.

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Hsiao-Hung Lin has transformed from a teenager into one of the world’s most highly acclaimed dancers by living in tune with traditional Chinese culture.


ELITE PEOPLE

COVER GIRL A YOUNG TAIWANESE GIRL TRANSFORMS INTO A GLOBAL STAR THROUGH PRESERVING AND PRACTICING A LOST CLASSICAL ART.

幸運的使命 ——訪神韻藝術團領舞演員林孝紘 如果您看到過 2017年神韻藝術團的全球巡演宣傳海報,一定會對上面那位高高躍起的女舞蹈演員 留下深刻的印象。她輕盈的身段,舒展的姿態精采呈現了中國古典舞那韻味獨特的恆久之美。

English text by David Lee | Chinese text by Cherry Chen | Produced by Echo Li Photography by Larry Dai and © Shen Yun Performing Arts

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s the face of Shen Yun Performing Arts’ poster for the past two years, Hsiao-Hung Lin still seems unaware of her stardom. “That’s just a photo,” she says. “I’m not like that in daily life.” She laughs.

儘管已經連續兩年成為神韻藝術團宣傳海報上的主角, 但林孝紘似乎並沒有感覺自己變成了大明星。「 那是照片 啊!我現實中可不是那樣子。」說完後,林孝紘爽朗地笑 了起來,一個舞臺下真實的她就這樣呈現在我們面前了。 舞中成長

LEAPS AND BOUNDS Born in Taiwan, the youngest child, with an older brother and two older sisters, Lin started to learn dance at the age of 11. “I remember I often quarreled with my sisters when I was young,” says Shen Yun’s leading lady. “It’s probably because we were too noisy; I was then sent to learn dance.” After learning some basic skills of ballet, Lin wanted to take the next leap in dance at age 14. “I had seen the performance of Shen Yun Performing Arts in Taiwan,” she says. “I wanted to be like them, but there was no place teaching professional classical Chinese dance in Taiwan. I knew Fei Tian Academy of the Arts in New York teaches it. So I gave it a try.”

生長在臺灣的林孝紘,從 11 歲開始學舞。 「 我是家中最 小的一個孩子,上面還有一個大哥,一對雙胞胎姐姐。 記得小時候在家跟姐姐們經常吵得厲害,可能因為在家 裡太吵鬧了,就送我去學舞了吧!」說到這裡,林孝紘又 呵呵地笑了。 在學習了一些芭蕾等西方舞蹈的基本功後,14 歲時 林孝紘萌生了去美國學跳舞的想法。 「 之前看過神韻藝 術團在臺灣的演出,心裡蠻想跟她們一樣的。可是臺灣 沒有專業教中國古典舞的地方,我知道紐約有飛天藝術 學院可以學,就想去試一下。」 順利通過了入學考試,林孝紘就這樣隻身踏上了前 往遙遠異國他鄉求學的道路。我們問她那麼小去那麼遠 的地方,是否曾感覺有些害怕或是傷心?她依舊樂呵呵 地告訴我們: 「 沒有啊!當時家裡人多,覺得自己出來 還

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After passing the academy entrance exam, Lin set off to study abroad by herself, and despite her young age, she wasn’t worried about being homesick. “There were a lot of people at home, so I felt pretty good to leave home at that time,” she says. “Maybe my response was somewhat slow. After staying in New York for three years, I seemed to suddenly realize that I was abroad all by myself.” Her optimism and carefree personality helped her adapt to the new environment more easily than other students. However, the arduous professional dance training and busy schedule of the world tour took her focus away from any difficulties, such as the language barrier and different eating habits. “Once you pursue a professional dancing career, it’s not something playful anymore,” she says. “Dancing is different from singing. If a person is talented in singing with a particularly good voice, they can sing well even if they don’t practice much. But it’s not the case for dance. Even if you are talented, you have to practice diligently. If you don’t practice, you simply can’t do the technique. You can’t do it well.” Lin’s physical strength was good for dance, she said, but she wasn’t flexible enough. She often regrets that she didn’t practice more when she was little. “If I stretched my legs more then, I wouldn’t need to work so hard later.” Now a veteran, Lin explains that she’s fortunate to be able to share her experiences with the junior dancers. “I’ve performed about 900 performances in the eight years since 2008 when I joined the world tour of Shen Yun Performing Arts—it’s even hard for me to believe sometimes,” she says. “I was the youngest child at home, so I didn’t know how to take care of myself. But now I’m not only independent, I also have to take care of others.”

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蠻好的。可能我反應也比較遲鈍吧!大概在紐約待了三年 之後,我才似乎突然意識到,哦!我這是自己在國外了。」 一方面樂觀大方的性格,讓林孝紘比其他孩子更容 易適應了新環境;另一方面,艱苦的專業舞蹈訓練和繁 忙的演出任務,也讓林孝紘來不及沉浸在語言不通、飲 食不習慣等諸多煩惱之中。 「 什麼事情一旦變成專業的, 那就不是玩兒了。舞蹈和唱歌不一樣,唱歌如果天賦好, 嗓音特別好,不去練習那也是好的。但舞蹈不是,就算 再有天賦也要勤練,不練就不會,就做不好。」林孝紘說, 她的身體條件還是不錯的,只是柔韌性差一些,現在時 常會後悔自己小時候沒多練習。 「 如果那時候把腿壓開 了,後來可能就更省力一些。」 聽了林孝紘的經驗之談,我們不禁問起,現在已經 是 「 老演員 」的她是否有將這些經驗傳授給 「 後輩們 」。 「 有啊!回想起來,我從 2008 年底第一次參加神韻藝 術團全球巡演,都八年了,演了差不多 900 場,有時自 己都不敢相信。中間發生過許多事情,積累了很多經驗。 我之前在家裡是最小的,不太會打理自己,現在不僅自 立了,還要去照顧別人。」林孝紘說自己第一次從紐約回 臺灣探親,走出機場時,她的父母簡直認不出她了,「 整 個人的樣子全變了,真的比之前成熟太多,那才只是離 家一年呢!」從當初荳蔻年華的懵懂少女,到如今世界 頂級舞蹈團體的領舞演員,林孝紘就這樣在舞蹈中不知 不覺地成長起來了。 真情演繹 生長在臺灣的林孝紘從小接受的是傳統中國文化教育, 這讓她在演繹中國古典舞時,更加能理解到其中那種獨 特的韻味。「 指導老師經常跟我們說,想像力對跳舞來 說很重要。跳一支舞,你要自己去想想當時的場景,眼 中看到一座大山和看到海洋的感覺是不一樣的,這種不 一樣的心境會讓動作也不一樣。中國古典舞是由心而發 的舞蹈,心怎麼動很重要。」 林孝紘為我們例舉了她在 2012 年參加第五屆新唐 人電視台「 全世界中國舞舞蹈大賽」時表演的舞蹈《在水 一方》。「 那個舞蹈的編排取材自 《詩經.蒹葭》 『 蒹葭蒼


Lin believes Shen Yun’s mission to preserve China’s 5,000-year-old culture is sacred and universal for all people around the world to enjoy.


When you dance, you have to imagine the scenes of the dance piece. The feeling of seeing a mountain is different from that of seeing the sea. Different feelings will make different movements. Classical Chinese dance is dancing from the heart, so what you feel is very important.� Hsiao-Hung Lin, Shen Yun principal dancer


After only one year away from home, when she first returned to Taiwan, her parents almost didn’t recognize her at the airport. “I looked completely different,” Lin says. “I was really much more mature than before.”

蒼,白露為霜,所謂伊人,在水一方。』我先去讀這首詩, 知道裡面講的是什麼,然後再把自己置身其中,去想像 水邊美麗的景色,呼吸清新的氣息,要用手中的扇子做 出輕輕點過水面那種感覺。這些都要慢慢去揣摩,去找 到自己的感覺。如果只是聽別人講,那就不是自己的,

SEA OF CHANGE Growing up in Taiwan, Lin was raised amidst traditional Chinese culture, so learning “bearing”—the unique element of classical Chinese dance where all expression initiates first from the spirit—came naturally to her. “Our teacher often told us that imagination is very important for dancing,” she says. “When you dance, you have to imagine the scenes of the dance piece. The feeling of seeing a mountain is different from that of seeing the sea. Different feelings will make different movements. Classical Chinese dance is dancing from the heart, so what you feel is very important.” Lin’s gold medal performance at the 2012 Junior International Classical Chinese Dance Competition called “By the Waterside” illustrates her sentiment. The piece is choreographed from “The Reeds” in Classic of Poetry:

跳不出那種真情實感。」最後,林孝紘獲得了那次大賽 少年女子組的金獎。 這次獲獎之後,2014 年再度參賽的林孝紘又榮獲 了青年女子組的金獎。說到自己如此驕人的成績,林孝 紘說感到頗有些意外,自己也不知道為何如此受到評委 們的青睞。 「 獲獎之後感覺壓力還是很大的,覺得自己 以後應該做的更好。我準備比賽的過程蠻自然的,就是 練習,每天發現問題,就改正這個問題,這樣一點點地 打磨這支舞。其實,跳舞都是這樣的,功夫要下在平時。 最後,在臺上的表演就是很自然的呈現。」 兩次的參賽經歷也讓林孝紘對中國古典舞有了一些 更深刻的體會和理解。「 要說提升,主要是在連貫性上 吧!舞蹈最難的部分是動作與動作之間的銜接,對於中 國古典舞來說更是尤其重要,我們常說:美在過程。那 些固定的動作和組合都是差不多的,差別就在兩個動作 間的過渡上。當一位演員在一個動作到另一個動作之間 做出那種巧妙、頓挫的感覺,真的會感覺到裡面有豐富

The reeds are luxuriant, The white dew is turned to frost; The one in my heart, Is somewhere by the waterside.

的內涵。」 在舞蹈技藝有了長足的提升之後,林孝紘在舞臺上 有了更多的空間來感受和塑造人物的內心世界。 「2015 年,我在神韻全球巡演中扮演了一個小女孩,那支舞的 名字是《風雨中的蓮》。表現的是中國大陸法輪功修煉

“I read the poem first and then imagined myself in the scene: I was at the beautiful waterside, breathing the fresh air,” the star says. “I had to express the feelings of gently touching over the surface of water with the fan in my hand. I had to try hard to fathom and find the feelings. If I just listen to others’ interpretation, it’s not mine. Then I can’t express the authentic feelings in my dance.”

者遭受迫害的情節。女孩的父母因修煉法輪功被抓了, 留下她一個人無依無靠。我是臺灣長大的,沒有親身經 歷過那麼殘酷的迫害,我就去網上找很多照片和資料, 去想像如果自己是一個孩子,失去了父母是怎樣一種心 情,又會怎樣讓自己堅強起來。我還記得我在跳這支舞 時,十場中有七、八場真的會在舞臺上落淚。可能臺下 的觀眾看不到我的淚水,但我有時從臺上會看到他們在 抹眼淚,我知道他們真的被打動了。」

Left: Lin says a key component of embodying her characters on stage is to use her imagination to transport herself—and the audience—to a magical place.


「 有 時,這 真 是 一 種 考 驗。因 為 不是 演 一場、 十 場,而 是 上 百 場。也 就 是 說 半 年 的 時 間, 幾乎每天都要讓自己保持好的狀態。」

擔負使命 回首這麼多年的舞蹈生涯,林孝紘說自己最深的感觸是 覺得自己太幸運了,能來到「 神韻 」這麼好的一個團體。 「 我們的環境非常單純,大家都是為了一個共同的目標, 復興正統的中國傳統文化。為了這個目標,老師們掏心 掏肺地教我們,希望我們什麼都能學會,同學之間也很 少有矛盾。我想這也讓我們能把全部精力都投身在舞蹈 上,換作其他地方,可能處理人際關係就要耗費很多額 外的精力。」那究竟又是什麼力量,能讓來自世界各地 的藝術家們為了達成這個目標,而如此無私無我的辛苦 付出呢? 「 我想這裡面也有中國傳統文化的因素吧!我學過 許多中國古人的詩文,像是蘇軾、杜甫啊,你會發現他 們當中許多人都曾因忠言直諫而被貶過,但他們在自己 遭遇仕途的不順利時,寫出的東西依然是在擔心天下百 姓啊,擔心皇上被奸臣迷惑啊,總之,從來沒有想到自 己!我們既然要弘揚中國傳統文化,那我們自己首先要具 備這些品質吧!」說起神韻藝術團的使命——復興中國 五千年神傳文化,林孝紘的表情凝重了起來。 「 中國曾經是那麼好的國家,有那麼燦爛輝煌的文 化,是禮儀之邦。可在中共的統治下,經過一次次像文 革那樣的運動,把這些全都毀掉了。現在的中國人已經 不知道自己祖先真實的樣子,世界上其他國家的人更不 知道,這不是很可悲嗎?每當想到這裡,我就感到自己 責任重大。」半年時間編排一套全新的節目,半年時間 在世界各地上演超過一百場演出。自從加入 「 神韻 」,林 孝紘和神韻藝術團裏的其他成員每年都是這樣度過的。


Two years later, she won gold again, this time in the adult division of the same competition. But she was surprised when she was favored by the judges. “I still felt stressful after winning the prizes—I felt I had to do better in the future,” she says. “My preparation for the competition was a natural process. I just kept practicing, finding problems and correcting them every day, and honed my skill for the dance piece, step by step. Actually, that’s dance—you have to work hard all the time. At last, it’s just a natural presentation on the stage.” Not only did she bring home gold, the two competitions provided Lin with a deeper understanding of classical Chinese dance. “What I felt improved was mainly coherence,” she says. “The most difficult part for dance is the connections between different movements, and it’s especially important for classical Chinese dance. We often say: The beauty is in the process. Individual movements and combinations are similar. The difference lies in the connection of two movements. When dancers express the subtle feelings from one movement to another, you can really feel rich connotation inside it.” When all the internal and external components of dance work together, the experience is powerful, for Lin and the audience. During Shen Yun’s 2014 tour, she played a little girl in a program called “The Steadfast Lotus,” a story about the persecution of the meditation group Falun Dafa in China. “The girl was left alone because her parents were arrested for practicing Falun Dafa,” she says. “I was born in Taiwan and did not personally experience such brutal persecution, so I searched many photos and stories on the internet to help myself imagine if I were a child, how I would feel losing my parents and how I would make myself strong and sturdy again.”

Lin won gold medals in the junior and adult divisions of NTD Television’s International Classical Chinese Dance Competition.


Above and opposite: Lin plays the daughter of a Falun Dafa practitioner who gets persecuted for her spiritual beliefs.

「 有時,這真是一種考驗。因為不是演一場、十場, 而是上百場。也就是說半年的時間,幾乎每天都要讓自 己保持好的狀態。我曾經真的有覺得很辛苦的時候,可 是就在去年,我感覺自己似乎一下子看開了。怎麼說呢? 做同樣一件事,關鍵是個過程,開心演是一百場,不開 心也是這一百場,那還不如讓自己開心一點呢!我想我

Her research and training paid off, leaving a lasting impression on everyone watching. “I remember when I danced the piece, I shed tears for eight out of the 10 performances. The audience members might not be able to see my tears, but I could see them wiping their eyes from the stage. I knew they were really moved.”

做的是一件這麼有意義的事情,我其實是很幸運的,我 也應該很開心的去做。」林孝紘告訴我們,神韻藝術團 自成立十年以來,足跡幾乎已經踏遍全球。「 包括美國一 些小城市,我們都去演出過。當地居民可能一輩子都沒 見過這麼多中國面孔,更不知道中國古典舞是什麼。」 令林孝紘感到可惜的是,這麼精采和美好的演出,至今 在中國大陸還從未上演過。中國的大多數民眾反倒沒有 機會通過「 神韻 」來感受自己歷史文化的博大精深和美 好輝煌。 儘管有這樣的遺憾,但林孝紘認為, 「 神韻 」的演出 足以令世界上每一位炎黃子孫感到自豪。 「 我想『 神韻 』 目前正在全世界為中國文化開闢一個全新的市場,是引 領中國傳統文化回歸的先鋒。我回到臺灣時,會告訴我 的親友們, 『 神韻 』的演出面向的是全世界各個國家和族 裔的觀眾,現場伴奏的樂隊都是中西合璧的,可以說是 提取了全人類的藝術精華打造出的一臺演出,但烘托表 現的是中國傳統文化。我們真的是獨一無二的。」

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A SINGLE INTENTION Looking back at her dance career of so many years, Lin feels deep gratitude for the opportunity to be a part of such a unique company as Shen Yun. “Our environment is very simple,” she says. “Everyone has just one common goal: reviving authentic traditional Chinese culture. With this aim, teachers teach us wholeheartedly. They hope we can learn everything. We have very few conflicts between classmates, so we can focus all our efforts on dance. In other places, people might waste a lot of energy dealing with interpersonal relationships.” It seems as though they aren’t just preserving a traditional art form, they’re practicing it too. “I’ve read many articles and poems from ancient Chinese people, such as Su Shi, Du Fu,” Lin says. “I found that many of them have been demoted because they gave


ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN TASTE OF LIFE

straightforward, truthful advice to the emperors. But when they suffered personally, they still just wrote about their worries for the common people and the emperor being cheated by treacherous court officials. In short, they never thought about themselves. Since we’re promoting traditional Chinese culture, we should first have these qualities ourselves.” A seriousness overcame Lin’s typical light demeanor as she discussed Shen Yun’s mission to revive 5,000 years of divinely inspired Chinese culture. “China had been such a good country with such a splendid culture,” she says. “It was a country of etiquettes. But all these were destroyed under the rule of the Chinese Communist Party through many movements such as the Great Cultural Revolution. The modern-day Chinese people don’t know what their own ancestors were like, and people in other countries know even less. Isn’t it sad? Whenever I think about it, I feel my responsibility is great.” Every year, Shen Yun produces a new program, planning and preparing for six months, then touring the second half of the year, for 100 performances. “Sometimes it’s really a test,” Lin says. “It’s not performing for one or 10 performances but about 100. I have felt

tremendous pain sometime. However, I seemed to let go of it all of a sudden last year. I thought the key point for doing one thing is the process. It’s always about 100 performances that I have to perform whether I’m happy or unhappy, so why don’t I make myself happy? I think what I do is such a meaningful job. I’m actually quite lucky.” Lin told us that Shen Yun has toured almost every part of the world since its inception 10 years ago. “We’ve even performed in some small cities in the U.S.,” she says. “The local people probably hadn’t seen so many Chinese people in their whole lives, nor know anything about classical Chinese dance.” Lin thinks that every Chinese person can be proud of Shen Yun. “I think Shen Yun is opening up a new market for Chinese culture around the whole world,” she says. “It’s a pioneer reviving traditional Chinese culture. When I go back to Taiwan, I always tell my relatives and friends that the target audience of Shen Yun is all countries and all ethnic groups around the world. The live orchestra blends both Eastern and Western instruments in a performance that extracts the essence of art from all of mankind, accentuating traditional Chinese culture. We are really one-of-a-kind.” │47


ELITE PEOPLE

“Il Sogno (The Dream),” circa 1533, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475–1564 Rome). Drawing, black chalk, sheet: 15 5/16 inches by 10 15/16 inches. (London, Courtauld Gallery, Prince Gate Bequest)


神性的回聲

The Divine Creative Process of

Michelangelo

Tour de force drawings exhibition at The Met English text by Milene Fernandez | Chinese text by Janet Ma

M

ichelangelo consigned most of his drawings to the fire. Those were his rough sketches, his fleeting thoughts, perhaps. The few drawings that survived, his contemporaries described as “echoes of the divine.” These were highly prized, even during his lifetime, as they revealed the creative process of “Il Divino” (the Divine One). The Renaissance master, who uplifted the role of the artist, curated his legacy carefully—a legacy that continues to unfold. Michelangelo was publicly praised as “the Divine One” as early as the age of 31 in an epic poem, and then throughout his lifetime. The accolade remains as true as ever, reaffirmed today with the title of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s unprecedented exhibition Michelangelo: Divine Draftsman and Designer. “The towering genius of Michelangelo can remind us that art is timeless and larger than ourselves. It nourishes the spirit. Art can provide solace in grief and instill a sense of hope in humanity,” curator Carmen Bambach said at the press preview on Nov. 6. At the end of her speech, she alluded to the exhibition as being “a spiritual experience.” To enter the world of this master, to be able to see and feel what Michelangelo communicates in his drawings, calls for concentration and contemplation. The Met’s exhibition provides a glorious opportunity to do so, requiring a degree of humility. It highlights Michelangelo’s “disegno”—meaning, literally, both drawing and design in Italian and, theoretically, the aesthetic/ethical pursuit cultivated during the Renaissance.

藉由藝術,米開朗基羅終其一生都追尋著生命更美好的 境界。人們用很多詞句來形容他的作品:宏偉壯麗、沉 著莊嚴、深刻雋永、震撼人心……當面對他的作品,人 們總是不由地被打動。他的手和心,擁有展現神蹟的力 量,如同與米開朗基羅同時代的人們對他的稱呼─ ─ Il Divino(the Divine One)。 見證名作的誕生 或許是因為這位藝術巨匠更鍾愛自己雕塑家的身分,他 並沒有像其他文藝復興時期的大師那樣留下大量繪畫 手稿。米開朗基羅將自己的大多數圖稿付諸火焰,也未 曾留下關於創作的文字紀錄。僅存的少量手稿,在他生 前便被人珍重寶藏,視為「 神性的回聲(echoes of the divine)」。於是幸而,今天的人們得以穿透五百年的歲 月流轉,窺見這位藝術巨擘的創作歷程,他豐盛的靈感, 精確的描摹,以及難以抑制的激情表達。 在大都會博物館展出的米開朗基羅手稿裡,你會看 到他充滿情感的筆觸。它們似乎不是在畫,而是被刻進 了圖畫的神的形象。在米開朗基羅筆下,即使沒有生命 的物體也輪廓鮮明,湧動著不休止的動態力量。「 它充 滿原始的力量,就像是迸發的靈感在紙上匯聚為美。」 大都會藝術博物館書畫部館長 Dr.Carmen Bambach 說,「 在這些圖稿面前,我們能真實感受到藝術家創作 的思緒。」 無形化作有形,思維寓於具象。大都會博物館的這 次展覽,給人們機會跟隨米開朗基羅的指引,見證名作 的誕生。 《利比亞女先知練習稿》展現人體之美 為了完美呈現《創世紀》中利比亞女先知在座椅上回身呈 放書卷的動態形象,米開朗基羅精確描 繪了身 體在 壓

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As if to match Michelangelo’s herculean creative process, in eight years The Met has assembled the largest ever exhibition of the master’s drawings—a total of 128, including drawings in preparation for the colossal marble sculpture of David, the early planning of the Tomb of Pope Julius II, studies he drew for painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling, and an enormous cartoon (full-scale drawing) created in preparation for “The Crucifixion of Saint Peter” fresco in the Vatican Palace. To give a broader context, the exhibition also includes three of his marble sculptures, his earliest painting, his architectural model for a chapel vault, and his poetry and letters, as well as about 70 works by his teachers, pupils, collaborators, and the artists he influenced. Connecting threads in Michelangelo’s artistry can be found in a way that has not been possible before.

力下不同部位的型態變化,這從展品《利比亞女先知練 習稿》中可以看出。當身體呈 S 型回轉,兩腳成為維持 姿態的重要支點。畫家首先描摹了左腳大趾,它恰到好 處地分擔著一部分身體重量,保持著姿態的平衡。然後 是由於旋轉作用而彼此分開的大趾與其餘四趾。最後, 是踝關節立起,肌肉緊繃的整個腳掌。女先知正在呈放 書卷─ ─她是否剛剛記錄完一條為未來某事所做的預 言?她智慧的額頭下低斂的雙目,是疲憊,深思,還是 在為世人憂慮? 今天,當你看到描繪在西斯廷禮拜堂天頂的《創世 紀》,你會驚嘆這不朽的奇蹟。在超過 1,000 平方米巨 大構圖的 50 個場景裡,人體幾乎是唯一的表現元素。 大大小小 343 位人物,各有各的動態,俱富不同神情。 或許每一位人物形象都經過了如利比亞女先知那樣細緻 入微的創作過程,最終,米開朗基羅使情感溶於血肉軀 體,於千變萬化之中,窮極人體之美。

Not even the best of artists has any conception that a single marble block does not contain within its excess, and that is only attained by the hand that obeys the intellect.” Michelangelo The rarely displayed works are on loan from about 50 top collections from 35 cities in Europe and in the United States. It would otherwise take 20 years for a scholar to gain access to all of these works, let alone be able to see them all in one place. Michelangelo’s boundless imagination, his force of character, and his virtue are displayed for all to see in this monumental exhibit until Feb. 12, 2018. It’s a generous run, considering the fragility of the drawings and utmost care needed to conserve them by limiting their exposure to light. The exhibition catalog will remain as a permanent record. It’s only when seeing these works in person, however, that one can fully appreciate Michelangelo’s “terribilità,” the awe-inspiring grandeur he was known for. One can get the tactile sense of how he carved into the paper, with hard-pressed contours. One can see the incredible way his works, these inanimate objects, evoke a sense of perpetual, dynamic movement. 50│

從繪畫喚醒生命的真念 「 對米開朗基羅來說,繪畫就是他的語言。」Bambach 館長說。 有時,米開朗基羅會迅速畫下一些形象,線條簡單 而神 態誇張,像是畫家的自娛自樂。有時此一處,彼一 處,相似形象多次重複,如同思維的對話。繪圖是米開 朗基羅設計雕塑、建築和壁畫的第一步,思想落於紙上, 便是生動的具象。當他描畫人體解剖結構時,稿紙上的 交叉影線將與鑿刀下的大理石輪廓嚴密重合;當與助手 交流時,他的畫變得嚴謹、具體,細節精確;而當對友人 的真摯情誼想要訴諸筆端時, 米開朗基羅也會拿起畫筆。 展覽包含了三件米開朗基羅送給他的好友,年輕的 貴族卡瓦列力的素描: 《提提俄斯》(Tityus), 《法厄同 的墜落》 (Fall of Phaeton)和 《人生如夢》 (Dream), 作品精緻優美,完成度極高。《提提俄斯》和《法厄同的 墜落》以希神話故事事為主題,分別描繪了在冥界接受 懲罰的提提俄斯被巨鷹啄食肝臟的瞬間,和太陽神之子 法厄同駕馭太陽馬車,得意忘形而失去控制,給人間帶 來災禍,最後被宙斯擊落的故事。


“Portrait of Andrea Quaratesi,” 1532, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564). Drawing, black chalk; 16 3/16 inches by 11 1/2 inches. (The British Museum, London)

“Studies for the Libyan Sibyl,” circa 1510–1511, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564). Red chalk, with small accents of white chalk on the left shoulder of the figure, sheet: 11 3/8 inches by 8 7/16 inches. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, purchase, Joseph Pulitzer bequest. (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)


“In seeing the originals, we really get a sense of the artist’s hand, the artist thinking on the paper,” Bambach said. Up close, we can see Michelangelo’s uncontainable creative force, as if his hand could not keep up with his passion in making the invisible visible. “It’s almost like a feral sort of explosion of ideas and beautiful images on the paper.” Though much has been written and documented about Michelangelo, including the five biographies written during and shortly after his lifetime, this exhibit extends our understanding of him. It showcases Michelangelo’s training in the workshop of Domenico Ghirlandaio, and the perspiration that buttressed his genius. Framed in a biographical context, it touches on the conversations he had with antiquity; his rivalries with classical antiquity and with his contemporaries; his extremely calculated collaborations with other artists, such as with Venetian artist Sebastiano del Piombo (1485/86–1547); his poetry and letters; and his deep friendships and gifts exchanged, including those with the nobleman 52│

《人生如夢》則不僅重現了米開朗基羅對人體姿態 變化的精妙把握,更具深刻寓意。 畫面中央,一個青年倚靠在象徵地球的球體上,身 下是裝滿戲劇面具的盒子──塵世中的你來我往,如同 早已安排好的一場戲,幕起幕落,不過是換上不同的面 具扮演不同的角色。環視四周,人眼所見皆為貪慾執著。 此時,一位天使從天而降,以號角對準青年的「 第三隻 眼 」,喚醒真念,提醒人生命真正的意義。 米開朗基羅用自己的畫來警喻世人,信仰虔誠的他 一生奉行高尚的準則。門生康迪維說, 「 在我和他那麼 長久那麼親密的情誼中,我在他的口中只聽到最可尊敬 的語言。」 這位文藝復興時期的通才,即使偏愛鑿刀和畫筆, 卻並未吝於文字,他同樣擁有詩人的桂冠。 「 當米開朗 基羅說話的時候,詩歌是他最好的語言。」Bambach 館長說。 打動人心的作品 將永恆不朽 在大都會博物館展出的全部 128 件作品中,包含了大量 米開朗基羅與友人交換的詩作。它們如一顆顆珍珠,凝 結著米開朗基羅對藝術的理解。


Tommaso dei Cavalieri (1509–1587), and the poet and noble widow Vittoria Colonna (1492–1547). MICHELANGELO’S LANGUAGE When Michelangelo drew for himself, he made very quick, intuitive, spontaneous sketches. When he communicated with other artists, assistants, or workers in the quarries, he produced detailed drawings, in a dry style of draftsmanship, where his hand is not as recognizable because these were about communicating information. His anatomical studies, magnificent in finish, show hatchings and cross hatchings that parallel the way he carved his sculptures, Bambach explained. “For Michelangelo, drawing is a language,” she said. The artist considered himself mainly a marble sculptor, but he was also a painter, an architect, and a poet. The initial foundation for whatever he created or wanted to communicate started with drawing. He rarely theorized about his creative process in writing. “This is a man that, when he speaks, he speaks best in poetry,” Bambach said, smiling.

Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The work took approximately four years to complete (1508–1512). (Public Domain)

在寫給友人 Giovanni da Pistoia 詩中,米開朗基 羅曾圖文並茂的自嘲在天頂作畫的窘境,他是不願當畫 家的畫家──即使在創作 《創世紀》的時候,米開朗基羅 也執意認為自己是被錯置的雕塑家。正如詩中所寫,完 美無缺的 《大衛》並非新生於鐵鎚鑿刻,而是原本蘊藏在 大理石中的生命被還原而成。也許,去除雜質、顯露真 實的雕塑過程更讓米開朗基羅看到了藝術的不朽。 有一天,藝術家將停止雕刻的手,有一天,他將歸 於塵土。而偉大的作品卻不會因歲月褪色,藝術的美, 無論過去或將來,都擁有打動人心的力量。 曾經,當《創世紀》終於創作完成,西斯廷禮拜堂重

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“Archers Shooting at a Herm,” 1530–1533 by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475–1564 Rome). Drawing, red chalk; 8 5/8 inches by 12 11/16 inches (21.9 x 32.3 cm); ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/©HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2017. www.royalcollection.org.uk

“Tityus (recto); Sketches for a Resurrection of Christ (verso),”circa 1530–1532, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475– 1564 Rome). Drawing, black chalk, sheet: 7 1/2 inches by 13 inches (19 x 33 cm). Lent by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II (RCIN 12771), ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/©HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2017. www.royalcollection.org.uk


ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

One of his most famous sonnets, probably intended for Colonna, is most telling of his Neoplatonic artistic theory. The first stanza reads: “Not even the best of artists has any conception / that a single marble block does not contain / within its excess, and that is only attained / by the hand that obeys the intellect.” The connection between his heart, mind, and hand had to be integrated in the making of art, Bambach emphasized. Michelangelo valued disegno as a practice of fully concentrating and laboring to achieve a mystical union with God and thereby infusing it in his art. It is no wonder that his contemporaries venerated his work, calling it “an echo of the divine” and would commission work exclusively “by his hand” (“di sua mano”). In tandem, his handwriting was beautifully crafted and his poetry sublime. BEAUTY IN DEEP FRIENDSHIPS Some of the most delightful and rarely seen drawings exhibited include the gifts Michelangelo gave to his greatest friends, such as the four surviving drawings he gave to Tommaso de’Cavalieri (on loan from the Royal Collection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II). The drawing titled “The Dream” depicts a flying angel playing a trumpet pointed directly between a young man’s eyes (the location of the third eye and the site of the imagination in Aristotelian-Galenic thought). The man sits on a box containing theatrical masks and leans back on a sphere, conveying the idea of the earthly world as a stage. The angel awakening the man from the “dream” perhaps reflects Michelangelo’s status as an artist awakened—through his love of beauty and deep belief in God. “There is something tremendously beautiful in observing these drawings that are the maximum perfection of Michelangelo’s disegno,” Bambach said. “They are essentially the jewels of his draftsmanship.” The poems he exchanged with Colonna and the drawing he gave her of the Pietà, on loan from the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, attest to the “amazing profundity, the depth of their belief in God and abnegation,” Bambach said. Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564) lived nearly 89 years. His longevity was extraordinary for a person of his time. The Met’s exhibition of the divine draftsman and designer has extended Michelangelo’s immortality even further. It “may serve as a reminder that 500 years can melt away as we look at the drawings, sculptures, and paintings by this fiercely creative artist,” Bambach said.

Portrait of Michelangelo by Daniele da Volterra, The Collection Online, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (Public Domain)

新開放之時,在蜂湧而至,歡騰讚嘆的人群中,拉斐爾 感謝主讓他與米開朗基羅生於同一時代;當面對《最後 的審判》中驚心動魄的場景,教皇保羅三世忍不住當場 跪下,祈求天主在審判之日能對他寬容開恩。「 米開朗 基羅注定要創造出偉大美好的藝術作品 」,與他同時代 的,米開朗基羅傳記的作者瓦薩利這樣寫道。今天,當 看到勇敢智慧,擁有完美人體之美的《大衛》時,你依然 會相信這一點。 米開朗基羅活了 89 歲。瓦薩利寫到,在他出生的 時候,米開朗基羅的父親「 在神的啟示下為他取名 」, 他將展現神性的光輝,他留下的藝術將成為人類的榮光 ─ ─在匯集了來自 35 座城市的 50 個收藏,被命名為 「Michelangelo: Divine Draftsman and Designer」 的紐約大都會博物館展覽中,你將聽到這神性的回聲, 展覽截至 2018 年 2 月 12 日。

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Nestled in a lovely Alpine valley, a working farm harbors a surprise: the Michelinstarred La PrĂŠsef.


ELITE TRAVEL

從農場、牧原到餐桌:米其林餐廳La Preséf

From Farm and Field,

to the Table

English text and photography by Channaly Philipp | Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin


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t the Michelin-starred restaurant La Preséf, the raw ingredients don’t have to travel far—just a few hundred feet from field to table. That’s because La Preséf is located on a working farm and agriturismo (a farm where visitors can stay) named La Fiorida, nestled in the Italian Alps. Although you’d never guess from its rustic charm, open skies, and mountain views, the estate is only one hour away from Milan. With an eye toward a “zero-kilometer” food philosophy, the agriturismo not only maintains a garden, greenhouses, and a little “forest of berries,” but also raises goats, cows, and pigs, with a strong emphasis on their well-being. Cheeses such as Valtellina Casera PDO and Bitto PDO, made in summer pastures from the grass-fed cows’ milk, are aged on the premises. Guests can stay here year-round, and whether they spend their time relaxing at the spa or via hiking trails, they work up a healthy appetite that is richly rewarded. In the morning, a resplendent buffet spread awaits: enticing cakes and homemade cheeses, all entirely too tempting and delicious not to indulge in. Evenings can be devoted to fine dining at La Présef, where chefs Gianni Tarabini and Franco Aliberti helm the kitchen 58│

米其林餐廳 La Preséf 有個 特色:新 鮮食材 從 離 開產 地 到出現在餐桌 上 的 時間並不需太 久,它們 距 離餐廳 不過百呎之遠。這是因為來自意 大利阿 爾卑 斯山區的 La Preséf,本來 就 身處一座 兼具民宿性質的農 場 La Fiorida 之中。如果不親臨此地體驗鄉村魅力、蔚藍天 空、宏偉山景,怎麼也想不到距離米蘭一個小時車程以 外,竟有如此世外桃源。 La Fiorida 堅持「 零哩 」的食物哲學,因此農場不 僅自備花園、溫室、莓果小森林,還飼養乳牛、山羊與豬, 養殖過程強調牲畜的健康狀態。私房起司來自夏天草飼 牛的牛乳,預先製作儲存,保持風味。 訪客可以在 La Fiorida 經年久住,利用 Spa 放鬆 或是健行步道鍛鍊體魄,此後脾胃漸開,便能大啖佳餚。 晨間有繽紛的自助吧任君挑選:引人垂涎的糕點、自製 起司,每一樣都讓人難以拒絕。晚餐時分,可移步至米 其林餐廳 La Preséf,屆時 Gianni Tarabini 與 Franco Aliberti 兩位主廚將會為您端出充滿當地風味的饗宴。 近期,在意大利主廚協會( Identità Golose)於 米蘭主辦的料理研討會上,兩位大廚獲封「 味覺藝術師」

Spectacular views of the Italian Alps soothe the spirit, while on-site spa services pamper the body. Various massages are offered as well as aromatic baths—with Valtellina wine, milk, whey, cocoa, or even hay.


and work their magic to present flavors of the terroir. Just recently, they were honored as Artisans of Taste, or Artigiani del Gusto, at the food congress Identità Golose Milano. We caught up with them to chat about their philosophy and creative process. Elite: What is your cooking philosophy? Gianni Tarabini: I am a food artisan, loyal to my customers. I love transforming the raw ingredients produced just a few steps from my kitchen. The dairy and the slaughterhouse of La Fiorida are my pantry. The tradition and history of our territory constitute the strength of my cuisine. I would like to define my cuisine as emotional. Emotion is the main ingredient of my life, and it’s natural for me to share it as I think about and create our menu, which is inspired by the ethic of respect for the quality of the food. Franco Aliberti: My type of cuisine is a path, a journey into the territory, with a controlled explosion of the senses. Elite: With chef Gianni being from Valtellina in the north of Italy, and chef Franco from Pompeii, in the south, how does this dynamic play out in your creative process and working together? Mr. Tarabini and Mr. Aliberti: The exchange of ideas characterizes La Fiorida and La Preséf. Our encounter has brought into contact our two temperaments and two characters. They mirror our respective birth regions and, just like them, appear to be far from each other. But we already had an important root in common: the desire to give voice to the tradition and deep roots of the products in this territory. Telling their stories stimulates our curiosity as we read them and rewrite them, as much as for our guests when they listen to and taste them.

(Artisans of Taste, or Artigiani del Gusto)。因此, Elite 特別邀請兩位大廚與讀者朋友分享他們的料理哲 學與創意啟思。 Elite:請問兩位的「 烹飪之道 」是什麼呢? Mr. Tarabini:我是一名食物匠人,忠於顧客。我喜歡將 廚房裡的生鮮食材以簡單步驟烹調。La Fiorida 的自家 製乳坊與屠宰室就是我的食品餐具儲藏室。國家的風土 民情與歷史奠基了我的料理力量;我想我的料理是情感 的產物。情感是構成我人生的主要材料,因此與人分享 這份情感,或者我會以尊重食材的心情構思菜單是很自 然的事情。

Elite: What does the process of putting together a menu look like, given that so many of your ingredients come from the farm? Do all products come from the farm? Mr. Tarabini: Almost all the raw materials come from fields, from the garden, from the stable, from the dairy, or from La Fiorida’s agricultural factory. We use local suppliers characterized by the quality of their products, but above all by the same respect and love for the territory, the animals, and concern for food safety. Each dish is inspired by a "mountain" tangibility, sometimes irresistible in flavor, but always pure. For this reason, [most] consist of up to four

Mr. Aliberti:我的烹飪之道則是小心控制急欲探索外 界的感官,漫遊這塊土地。 Elite:兩位主廚分別來自南北意,這種地理導致的生活差 異給你們帶來什麼不一樣的烹調經驗與合作關係? Mr. Tarabini & Mr. Aliberti:其實分享不同的點子正是 La Fiorida 與 La Preséf 的特色。 我們兩個在 這 裡 服 務,正可以將不同的天賦與人格特質匯合在一起,並且 我們就像鏡子,確實的反映兩地的風貌。

A resplendent buffet awaits in the morning.

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Bitto is a local cheese, made only in summer, when cows graze the pasture.

Chefs Gianni Tarabini (L) and Franco Aliberti.

A staff member demonstrates how cheese is made.

Cheese at La Fiorida agriturismo in Mantello, Italy.

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products, so that the taste of each ingredient can be traced throughout its personality.

但我們都保有同樣的根源:想為傳統與風土食材的 產地發聲。重新理解、講述它們的故事,會為我們與顧 客在品嘗時,對這些食材帶來更多的好奇心。

Elite: Please tell us about the eggs you use—the Uovo di Selva (“egg from the forest”). Mr. Tarabini: We chose to use an unusual and truly natural egg in our dishes. The Uovo di Selva does not come from the chickens from our henhouse, but from the woods in the Orobie Alps. It reflects the characteristics and taste of the eggs I had as a child, just laid by my grandmother's chicken. The Uovo di Selva is an organic egg produced in Valtellina, in a chestnut wood at 600 meters [646 yards] above sea level, from hens [that roam freely] all day long in the woods, where they are offered a night shelter to protect them from predators and the cold of winter. Every day, the eggs are collected in the nests that the hens have built in the woods and delivered to us within 24 hours. Mr. Aliberti: It’s not only what is raised or cultivated that comes to our table. There are natural elements typical of the surroundings around La Fiorida. Our guests can find on their plates honed river stones and moss. [For a dessert,] we made a copy of the stones with a layer of striated chocolate, encompassing a creamy semifreddo heart, and the moss accompanying it was a cultivated edible special moss, crystallized with sugar.

Elite:既然食材多源於自家農場,那麼將這些材料化為 菜單上的佳餚是如何的過程?所有原料都自農場嗎? Mr. Tarabini:大部分生鮮材料來自牧原、花園、馬場, 或 是 La Fiorida 農 場加工。我們使用當地品質良好的 原料供應商,所有商家都得有愛護與尊重這片土地、動 物與食品安全的心意。每道料理都有著「 山 」一般的彈 性變化,儘管有時候味道不那麼吸引人,但食材絕對純 淨。每道菜色大多包含了四種食材,客人能夠在品味的 同時,也能從氣味中發掘食材的特性。 Elite:請談談 La Preséf 所使用的雞蛋——the Uovo di Selva( 森之蛋)。 Mr. Tarabini:我們在餐點裡特別使用了一種很少見但相 當天然的雞蛋。The Uovo di Selva 並非產自我們自家 雞舍,而是來自貝爾加莫阿爾卑斯山脈(Orobie Alps) 的森林。使用這種蛋是為了反映彼時品嘗祖母親餵的母 雞產下新鮮雞蛋的回憶。 The Uovo di Selvag 是產自 Valtellina 的有機蛋, 在海拔六百公尺的栗樹林裡,母雞自由的穿梭其中,是 雞隻躲避獵食者與禦寒的庇護所。每天會有人從雞巢中 取蛋,並在二十四小時內送到餐廳。 Mr. Aliberti:這 些 雞 蛋並不是 為了餐廳 需要 而培養, 但它們 代 表了農 場 附 近 的自然 風 貌。同樣 的,客人也 可以在餐盤上發現河中的「 卵石 」與「 苔蘚 」。那其實 是 紋 路巧克力外層與意大利特產、如奶油般的柔軟古

Elite: Please tell us about a couple of dishes that you offer at La Preséf that visitors should be sure to try. Mr. Aliberti: Two dishes always surprise those who taste them. These are two particularly charismatic creations that reveal the character of La Preséf, linked to the simplicity of the products, but also the experience of stories and emotions that chef Gianni Tarabini recalls most affectionately from his childhood. Mr. Tarabini: [One is] Gnocco [dumpling] with mountain potatoes, young Bitto cheese, whipped butter, misultin fish from Lario, and lemon rind. [The other is] “The Dream and the Emotion” ... the egg stolen from the chicken coop, Sacco potatoes, Bitto fondue, and the truffle from Costiera dei Cech, from which the palate recalls, with a mature touch, the innocent gesture of a child who steals the just-laid egg in the chicken coop from his grandmother's hen.

法冰 糕內餡 的仿真甜點,一 旁的苔 蘚是 特別栽 種 的, 原本即 可食 用,但我們 輔以拉糖手法,讓它 有 酥 脆 如 冰晶的口感。 Elite:請 推 薦 來 到 La Preséf 的 饕 客 兩 道 非 點 不 可 的餐點。 Mr. Tarabini:有兩道菜是顧客每嘗必定感到驚豔的。 在 那 其 中 有 兩 樣 迷 人 的 產 物, 體 現 了 La Preséf 的 特質,一 是與成品 的「 樸 質 」相 關,同 時 也 是 Gianni Tarabini 感性回想兒時記憶的情緒與故事經驗。 Mr. Aliberti: 其 中 一 道 餃 子 Gnocco, 內 含 高 山 馬 鈴 薯、 新 鮮 Bitto 起 司、 奶 油、 產 自 Lario 的 乾 鯡 魚 (misultin)、檸檬碎屑。另外一道是「 夢與情感 」,裡面 有從雞舍「 偷來 」的雞蛋、Sacco 馬鈴薯、融化的 Bitto 起司、Costiera dei Cech 的松露。這道菜是一個成年 人回憶當年一位天真男孩,從祖母養的母雞那兒,偷了 幾枚剛產下、熱呼呼雞蛋的場景。

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Situated in northern Yunnan Province, Ao Yun vineyards are at the edge of the Himalayas and just below the sacred Meili Mountain that culminates at 22,110 feet.

Ao Yun means “flying above the clouds” or “roaming above the clouds.” The name refers to the thick, wandering clouds of the region and celebrates the birthplace of the legend of Shangri-La.

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Ao Yun A Luxury Red Wine from Above the Clouds 來自雲端的葡萄酒「敖雲」 English text by Crystal Shi | Chinese text by Mia Yeh | Photography by Ao Yun

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igh above the clouds, tucked deep in the snow-capped Himalayan Mountains, lies the legendary paradise of Shangri-La. This utopia of purity, happiness, peace, and harmony on earth is the birthplace of Ao Yun, a luxury red wine from China backed by Moët Hennessy. Four years of searching across China for the perfect terroir for a fine red wine landed Moët Hennessy here, in northern Yunnan Province, at the foothills of the sacred Meili Mountain at the edge of the Himalayas—a four-hour drive away from the real city of Shangri-La, named after that paradise of lore. The name Ao Yun, which means “roaming above the clouds,” evokes the thick, wandering clouds that often cap the surrounding mountaintops. The winery’s first vintage, Ao Yun 2013, is a blend of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 percent Cabernet Franc that debuted at $300 a bottle. Only 24,000 bottles were released worldwide, with 4,000 available in the United States. The wine received high critical acclaim, garnering 93 points from Wine Advocate and praise from experts like Bloomberg’s Elin McCoy, who called it “certainly the best red from China I’ve yet sampled.” Ao Yun’s vineyards are spread across four villages, varying in altitude from 7,220 to 8,530 feet. Vines are planted organically in small blocks, interspersed with walnut trees and other local crops, and all viticulture processes, from weeding to thinning to harvest, are

深藏於喜馬拉雅山脈,在梅里雪山山麓之處,有一塊傳 說中的淨土:被雄偉渾厚的山脈所環繞,被清潤的泉水 所滋養,那就是人間仙境──香格里拉。 在這純淨的雪域,雲霧繚繞的沃土下,孕育出了全 球第一 瓶的中國頂 級葡 萄酒「 敖雲」。敖雲的葡 萄園 就建立在距離香格里拉不遠海拔約為 8,000 呎的高峰 上。它位於雲南西部深山,接近喜馬拉雅山脈,毗鄰西 藏地帶。由於葡萄園的高海拔位置,使敖雲的葡萄酒可 以說是前無來者,其獨特性和稀缺性不言而喻。這瓶帶 有東方神祕色彩的珍稀葡萄酒一問世,便以其高貴的身 價 300 美金,在葡萄酒界一鳴驚人。 英 國 葡 萄 酒 大 師 傑 西 斯 • 羅 賓 遜(Jancis Robinson)曾 如此 評 論 它 :「 很 多葡 萄 酒都 聲 稱自己 獨一無二,但敖雲的獨特是無庸置疑的。」第一批敖雲 2013 年份葡萄酒僅 24,000 瓶,在法國、美國、香港上 市後一瓶難求,其中僅 4,000 瓶供美國臻享。 是 什麼原因使 來自東方的敖 雲,在西方葡 萄酒界 一舉成名呢?美國彭博社的記者 Elin McCoy 給出了答 案; 「 這 款 90% 的 赤 霞 珠 和 10% 的 品 麗 珠 葡 萄 酒 成 熟香醇,深沉濃烈,芬芳馥郁,還散發出淡的甘草香味, 口感柔滑,理所當然地 成為我嘗到最好的中國產紅葡 萄酒。」 敖雲的尊貴口感,與其特有的地理環境和作業方式 息息相關。強烈的日照、乾燥的氣候、純淨的水源、清 新的空氣和高海拔的土壤,讓敖雲酒莊成為孕育有機葡 萄的絕佳環境。充沛無阻的炎熱陽光,將開花期由普遍 的 120 天增至 160 天, 葡萄得以茁壯成長,充分熟成。 然而高峰野嶺的地勢成為了機械作業的困境——釀酒機

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Above: Ao Yun is made from grapes grown in 314 blocks on 68.8 acres of vineyards. Vines are planted organically in small blocks, and all vineyard processes are conducted meticulously by hand. Right: Ao Yun is an exceptional red wine made of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 percent Cabernet Franc.

done meticulously by hand. High altitudes coupled with a drier climate and intense sunlight give the region great potential and a unique terroir, which in turn give the resulting wines unmatched character. “It’s a unique expression of Cabernet Sauvignon,” explains Olivier Gailly, prestige brand manager of the Estates and Wines division of Moët Hennessy USA. “You recognize a lot of flavors and aromas you might know from Bordeaux, from Napa Valley, from a more classic Cabernet, but there is a unique character to it which is difficult to describe until you experience it.” Ao Yun will be a featured vintner at the prestigious Naples Winter Wine Festival 2018, and will be auctioning a trip to its winery in the Himalayas. But for those unable to journey to the Himalayas themselves, a glass of Ao Yun provides a closer taste of that faraway mountain terroir. 64│

器無法進入,電力供應不穩定,「 人工作業 」成為敖雲酒 莊的不二選擇。 正是如此得天獨厚的地理環境,加上小面積的精心 栽培,使得敖雲的風味令人驚歎。Olivier Gailly,敖雲 在美國市場的品牌經理,這樣評價: 「 敖雲是對赤霞珠 的獨特表達。品味敖雲,你似乎能品到波爾多,品到納 帕谷,品到經典的赤霞珠,諸多似曾相識的的口味和香 氣。然而,只有嘗到它的那一刻,你才能體驗到那難以 言傳的獨特口味和醇香。」 2018 年, 敖 雲 將 會 作 為 特 色 葡 萄 酒 商, 出 席 那 不勒斯冬季葡 萄酒節,屆時 將會有一 個激 動人心的拍 賣——喜馬拉雅敖雲酒莊特別體驗行。當然如果你不能 去喜馬拉雅山,一杯敖雲,將會為你帶來那來自遠方的 特有的高山味道。


ELITE

VIP


Tea Fit for 都市裡的水晶宮

Royalty

English text by Crystal Shi | Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin | Photography by Baccarat Hotel New York

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ake afternoon tea like Turkish royalty at Baccarat Hotel New York. A new Turkish-inspired tea menu offers guests a taste of the mighty Ottoman Empire, with royal brews and delectable bites full of bold Middle Eastern flavors. The menu is the newest addition to the hotel’s afternoon tea service, inspired by Baccarat Crystal’s royal customers around the world.

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挑 高 的 大 廳 裡 垂 下 的 大 型 水 晶 燈、 餐 桌 上 皎 潔 的 香 檳 杯, 以 及 四 方 舉 目 清 透 的 水 晶 簾 幔, 座 落 紐 約 Midtown 的 Baccarat Hotel 無處不耀眼。 Baccarat 水 晶 起 源 於 西 元 1764 年, 時 值 路 易 十五執政期間。在時間的淬礪之中,「Baccarat」成為 法國首屈一指的水晶工藝品牌。Baccarat Hotel New York 則是這個百年品牌旗下第一間酒店,也是其在世 界 布 局 的 標 識 作 品。Baccarat Hotel New York 融


Baccarat Crystal boasts a legacy of over 200 years, dating back to the brand’s founding in 1764 by King Louis XV of France. Since then, it has grown to become a symbol of top craftsmanship and quality in French fine crystal-making, and has created masterpieces for royal households from Versailles to St. Petersburg. Baccarat Hotel New York, the brand’s first hotel and global flagship, offers a royal afternoon tea that honors its long legacy of serving kings and queens. Available Wednesday through Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., the service pairs globally inspired bites with world-renowned teas, carefully curated to evoke ancient palaces in distant lands. Their newest tea menu, “A Turkish Tea at Dolmabahce Palace” ($300 for two), transports guests to the Ottoman Empire of yore. The menu is best paired with Dunes du Sahara, a refreshing blend of gunpowder organic green tea and mint from Camellia Sinensis, but guests can choose from an extensive selection of teas from Mariage Frères, Camellia Sinensis, and In Pursuit of Tea to accompany their bites. Champagne is also available, by the glass or the bottle, for an additional cost.

Left page: Sultan tea. Above: The Grand Salon at Baccarat Hotel New York.

合了古典 法式美學與現代品味,透 過酒店裡 外別 緻 的 氛圍,傳遞 Baccarat 水晶琢磨百年的輝煌燦爛。 在 綴 滿 Baccarat 精 緻 水 晶 工 藝 品 的 Grand Salon 裡,輕啜茶飲,下午茶三層架上的可口甜、鹹點, 將滿足每一個饕客挑剔的味蕾。 曾多次為世界各地皇 室 設 計 水 晶 飾 品 的 Baccarat,抱 持 著 同 樣 的 熱 忱 與 專業,與世界知名茶葉品牌——Camellia Sinensis 聯 手,設計出帶有昔時俄羅斯聖彼得堡、印度邦加羅爾宮 廷氛圍的皇家茶點,在一個風光明媚的午後,與您一同 神遊世界。 Baccarat 對自己的期許是,在白晝時分,能如虹 光 傾瀉,無 數切 面 隨 著 光 線 折射出不同的光 彩。當夜 幕降臨 時,香 檳杯身閃 耀 著幽深細 緻的輝光,或者新 鮮 嬌 豔玫瑰 般 的紅寶石表面。每一分一秒 都是美好。 Baccarat Hotel New York 至今在 TripAdviser 依然 維持著五顆星的滿意記錄,水晶宮邸已隨時準備好為您 提供最完美的住宿經驗與用餐品質。

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English text by Irene Luo Chinese text by Jessica Lin Photography by Michael Lassman, Murray Fredericks, and Jem Cresswell


ELITE HOME

綠意盎然的環保私宅

Living Screen House A Balance of Earth, Water, and Sun


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nsconced within screens of greenery, this beautiful private retreat allows its residents to both relax in private and entertain guests with ease. Designed by CplusC Architectural Workshop, it sits in the beachside suburb of North Bondi in eastern Sydney, Australia.

眼 前 這 棟 適 合小 家 庭 入住 的 狹 長 型 建 築, 閑 居 氛 圍 濃 厚:明 亮 的 採 光、 大 量 木 質 裝 潢、 彷 彿 會 呼 吸 的 水 泥 牆, 還 有位 於 兩 倍 挑 高 空 間 下 的 長 型 泳 池, 緊 鄰 著後方的 烤肉區域,內觀 猶 如高 級休 閒 度假會 館。 不 僅 如 此, 充 滿 綠 意 生 機 的 巨 型 網 幕, 樹 立 在 門 前 與 房 屋 四 周, 具 有 隱 私 與 強 調 私 宅 的 意 味, 十足 反 映了屋 主 的 理 想:希 望 房 屋 能 同 時 成 為 娛 樂 休 憩 及

PRIVATE COMFORT CplusC innovatively built tall screens bedecked with pockets of vibrant greenery to give residents privacy from the surrounding buildings, which almost all tower over the home itself. The screens veil the home’s interior from neighbors and nearby pedestrians, but also allow sunlight to flood inside. Upon entering through the large pivoting wooden door, visitors are greeted by an entryway embellished with various forms of plant life and a Corten pond, imbuing the space with a tranquil ambience. For extra privacy, the architects designed both the entryway and the sunny front courtyard to sit below street level.

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家 人 獨 享 的 空 間。 不 過, 由 於 屋 型 限 制 與 太 陽 能 設 施、 自然 光 規 劃 等 已占 用 不 少 空 間, 因 此 這 的 相 當 考 驗 設 計 師 的 功力。 建 築 內 部 劃 分 為 社 交 與 家 庭 空 間, 樓 下 是 廚 房、 客 廳、 餐 廳, 戶 外 空 間 則 位 於 陽 光 充 足 處。 橫 亙 於 長 形 泳 池 與 會 客 室 間 的 透 明 壓 克 力 板 牆, 將 迷

Above left: Visitors to the home are greeted by a large pivoting wooden door and a below-ground entryway embellished with plant life and a Corten pond. Above right: The architects chose an asymmetrical balustrade for the stairway to transition between the industrial palette of the ground floor and the warmer timber upstairs.


Despite the home’s spacial limitations, double-height spaces and abundant natural light make the home feel wonderfully spacious.


A SUSTAINABLE DESIGN The architects emphasized environmental sustainability in their design, incorporating passive solar design and natural daylighting, environmentally friendly materials, rainwater storage, and solar power. The screens and custom planter beds of the home are fully plumbed, self-maintained, and LED-lit. CplusC’s material palette featured unfinished Kōbe Board, an environmentally friendly material uniting the best properties of wood and cement, as well as burnished concrete, expressed timber, and

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人 的 自 然 光 引 進 內 部 挑 高 空 間, 讓 室 內、 外 揉 合 為 溫 暖 的 一 體。 託 巨 型 綠 色 網 幕 之 福, 樓 上 每 間 寢 室 都 能 獨 享一 窗 綠 意。 某 種 程 度 上 而 言, 也 像 是 擁 有 一 座 陡 升 的 空 中 花 園, 將 外 界 的 窺 視 障 蔽 於 花 葉 扶 疏 之中。 家 居 設 計上, 裝 潢 材 料 尤 見 匠 心 獨 運:牆 面 主 要 為 水 泥 結 合 定 向 纖 維 板, 具 有 環 保 訴 求 的 Kobe Board,拋 光 處 理 的水泥 地 板,並 結合了加 上令人印 象 深 刻 的 木 質 樓 梯 與 金 屬 欄 杆, 表 現 出 融 合工 業 風 與 金 屬 風 的 設 計 理 念。 此 外, 節 能 設 施 也 是 設 計 的 重 點 訴求:一萬公升容量的儲 雨槽以 及屋頂 上一萬瓦 特發電 量的太陽能面板。


steel columns complemented with industrial steel accents. They primarily chose raw materials that would require minimal energy to produce. DESIGNED FOR ENTERTAINMENT In planning the house, the architects split the design into private spaces above and social spaces below. On the lower level, the interconnected kitchen, living, dining, and outdoor spaces create an interactive, engaging space, perfect for accommodating large groups. The design optimizes natural sunlight, while emphasizing visual connections between spaces.

Left page: Beautiful above-ground pool blurs the boundaries between interior and exterior. Light reflects and refracts from the pool, enhancing its surroundings. Above: The oversized doors in the corner of the house can slide open to allow direct access to the rear. The solid timber sliding panel behind the built-in bench can similarly open for views of the outdoor vegetation.

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The media room, which connects to the pool area and front courtyard, is the perfect space for teenagers or children to enjoy themselves. Left page: Upstairs, each bedroom was designed to overlook a private outdoor green space—either vertical screen gardens or plantings in the lower yard level.

The star attraction of the home—a beautiful aboveground lap-pool—abuts the double-height social space, which opens to the outdoor barbecue area in the rear. This glistening blue oasis was inspired by the gorges and water paths that the architects had observed in nature. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide enchanting views of the pool. Since moving in, the residents have already hosted a variety of festivities, including a 21st birthday party, a family Christmas gathering, and several impromptu barbecues with friends. The widespread use of wood in the home creates an earthy, welcoming atmosphere, complemented by sunlight cascading in and verdant plant life interspersed throughout. The architects meticulously tailored the design to allow the residents to thoroughly enjoy themselves in the space and engage in their interests, from entertaining at home to surfing at nearby Bondi Beach.

房 屋 的 其 他 設 施 規 劃, 則 以 方 便 屋 主 家 人 輕 鬆 從事心愛休閒活動為主,如運 動器材間位 於通往附近 Bondi 沙 灘 的 庭 園, 下 了 班 或 放學 後 就 能 直 接 進 屋 帶上衝 浪 板,前往海上 大 展 身手。交 屋後 半 年內,屋 主已 經在自家住宅舉 辦二十 一歲 生日派 對、聖 誕 節家 族聚會,還有幾次呼朋引伴,隨興的烤肉大餐。 由 於 住 屋 位 在 雪 梨 郊 區 —— 邦 迪 海 灘 北 邊, 街 道兩 旁多是兩層樓 的獨 棟住宅 或 是 低 矮 的公寓社 區, 因 此 在 規 劃 巨 型 網 幕 的 高 度 與 環 繞 區 域, 以 及 在 網 幕上 搭 載 LED 光 照植 栽 時,既需要 考慮 配 合街 景,也得 留意自宅 的 需 求。為了增強 臨 近交 通 道 路 的 住 屋 隱祕性,設 計 師選 擇將入口牽引至低 於 路面處, 並且將綠幕前後圍繞主體建築。 CplusC 熱 衷 於 利 用 建 案 以 前 所 遺 留 的 材 料 或 設 備, 不 僅 以 此 連 繫 原 址 的 前 後 歷 史, 也 能 節 省 設 計 裝 潢 成 本, 具 有永 續 利 用 的 意 義。 如 保 留 原 本 的 停 車 場, 以 及在 拆 遷 過 程 中 遺 留 的 木 材 和 盆 栽, 都在裝潢與布置新居時派上用場。

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Clockwise from left page: In the master suite, a refreshing crossbreeze and streams of natural light flow into the room through the large sliding windows and louvers. The sunny courtyard is enclosed by green screens and sits below street level, allowing for additional privacy. With convenient and secure storage for sports equipment, it is perfect for grabbing a surfboard and heading to the beach after work or school without bringing a trail of sand indoors. Joinery with contrast edging creates a feature that frames the client’s collected books and art. The offset double frame is a nice detail that helps to break up the large area.

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BRING

Spring

English Text by Erin Wang Chinese Text by Yi-Chun Lin

INDOORS

PHOTOS BY OYOY DESIGN, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM

巧思打造盎然春意


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SPICE UP THE LIVING ROOM

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1 DAY ARMCHAIR, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, DANISHDESIGNSTORE.COM 2 SMALL ANGEL AND PENGUIN DESIGN, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 3 PIF PAF PUF HANGING STORAGE, OYOY DESIGN, DESIGNER-RUG.COM 4 BUMBLE CUSHIONS, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 5 TIPPETOP CANDLEHOLDERS, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM

Update the living room for spring with fresh accessories, light-toned paint, and bold patterns. Patterned pillows with new accent colors can create a dominant hue and spice up a living room, while fresh design accessories in similar tones can shift the living room from winter blues to a more pleasant personality. If you have a brick fireplace, try updating its surroundings by modernizing with white paint.

在春天來臨前,改 造客廳的祕訣在於設計新穎的小配 件、亮色漆、醒目的圖案。幾何圖紋的亮色靠枕,能製 造出讓 人心情 愉 悅 的氛圍,讓客廳 頓 時活 潑 醒目。相 似色調 的春季時 尚 配件也能消除冬日的清冷,打造出 令人愉 悅 的 家 居格 調。如果您 有 磚製火 爐,可以 刷白 它,增加視覺上的現代感。

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PHOTOS BY MUUTO, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, OYOY DESIGN


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ENTRYWAY UPDATES 2

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1 TRIO VASES, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, LUMINAIRE.COM 2 VISU CHAIR WOOD BASE, MUUTO, DESIGNED BY MIKA TOLVANEN, YLIVING.COM 3 ARROW HANGER, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, DANISHDESIGNSTORE.COM 4 STACKED STORAGE SYSTEM, MUUTO, DWR.COM 5 WOOD COATRACK DOTS, MUUTO, DWR.COM

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Are you longing for spring? Fresh home decor can bring springtime cheer. First impressions start at the front door entryway. Any entryway, whether large or small, can be brightened up by just adding a new pop of color, like a pink chair or hanger. Try topping your entryway table or storage with a plant or flowers.

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期待惠風曉暢的時節嗎?其實在家居裝潢上 運用點小 巧思也能帶 來春意 盎 然。前門入口處是客人留 下第一 印象的關 鍵。不論入口寬闊與否,只要放 入 些 亮眼 的 顏色,如粉紅椅子或 衣 鉤,或 是在 玄關桌或櫥櫃 放 點 盆栽或插花,也有煥然一新的效果。

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PHOTOS BY GUBI, FERM LIVING, NORMANN COPENHAGEN, WILKHAHN, OYOY DESIGN, CUCKOOLAND


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DRESS UP YOUR WORKSPACE

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1 OUTLINE BOOKEND - DUSTY BLUE, FERM LIVING, US.AMARA.COM 2 DAILY FICTION PLANNER, NOTEBOOKS, AND PEN, NORMANN COPENHAGEN, YOOX.COM 3 GRÄSHOPPA TABLE LAMP, GUBI, 2MODERN.COM 4 OCCO CHAIR IN BLUE, WILKHAHN, WILKHAHN.US 5 WHY-NOT CYLINDER IN DOT, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 6 WALL WONDER CLOCK, FERM LIVING, LOFTMODERN.COM

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As 2018 begins, welcome the new year by giving your workspace a new look. The easiest way to do so is to add fresh-look accessories and decor, like bright-colored binders, a chic clock, or modish lamps. If you are ready for big changes, get a dazzling chair, a big green plant, and juicy-colored furniture.

2018年即將到來,重新布置工作空間,與它一同迎接 新 年 吧!最簡單 的 方法 就 是 以令人耳目一 新 的 配 件或 裝飾 點 綴,如亮色資 料夾、可愛的 時 鐘或 是充滿 時 尚 感 的 檯 燈。如果你已準備 好大 肆 改 造,那就買一把令 人驚豔的椅子、一棵大盆栽與果汁色彩的鮮豔家具。

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ELITE PEOPLE

WYLIE CHEN Building a Supercar Business 實幹創業的千禧族 English text by Irene Luo | Chinese text by Ziqiong Ling and Yi-Chun Lin Photography by David Toman

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he roaring engine, the sleek exterior, and the breathtaking speed of a supercar make it the dream of many car enthusiasts. But because of its hefty price tag, few can actually acquire and experience one for themselves.

您知道隨著新世紀成長的千禧一代,現在都在哪些領域 發光發熱嗎?這一代的價值觀與人生觀又是如何?偶然 之中,我認識了文中的主角 Wylie Chen,他就是海外 華人裡,典型的千禧之子。Wylie 為了實現夢想,造訪 美國許多城市,最終選擇了舊金山灣區—— 美國生活水 平最高的地方定居。舊金山灣區是新興產業、理念和商 業模式勃興的決勝點,美國高、精、尖、數位時代的產 品大都是在灣區誕生的。

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Wylie Chen, a young China-born entrepreneur in the San Francisco Bay Area, sought to transform dream into reality by building a supercar sharing business. By splitting the burdensome cost, many more people can relish in the adrenaline-inducing experience of driving a supercar. IN FLIGHT Growing up sitting in his dad’s car, Wylie Chen became an automobile aficionado from a young age. He was eager to take the wheel himself, reveling in the adrenaline rush as he rode into the vast, open road ahead. And his love didn’t end with cars. While his classmates in the United States were practicing to pass the driver’s test, Wylie decided to learn to pilot a plane. Flying the aircraft, Wylie felt freedom, power, and a euphoric feeling of control over his future. The vastness of the skies broadened his mind and imbued him with vigor to succeed. After he obtained certification to pilot a plane, the world seemed to unfurl in his mind, revealing more exciting possibilities. A BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Wylie grew up in a relatively wealthy household, but his parents, like many other Chinese families, decided to send their child abroad at a young age to pursue a better education. He thus learned to be independent at a young age. As he observed the workings of American society, he quickly adapted to his new environment. During his time in college, he noticed that many of his peers loved cars, especially luxury cars. And an increasing number of Chinese international students from affluent backgrounds were willing to spend large sums of money on their dream vehicles. Many of his peers, Wylie observed, loved supercars

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for their speed and superior performance just like he did. But unfortunately, with prices ranging from hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars, these highend sports cars were only accessible to the wealthy. Many of Wylie’s friends would never be able to drive one themselves. Although there was a huge demand for suitable car dealers for students, to provide affordable but also attractive options, he found no businesses in San Francisco that met people’s needs. So Wylie was moved to take action. He decided to start his own second-hand car business in the Bay Area.

Wylie 從小跟父輩車行萬里,可謂在「 車 」上 長 大。轟鳴的引擎、強勁的馬力、馳騁的賽車、縱橫凌空 的飛機,這些動感十足的機械無不吸引著年輕人的心, 引領 Wylie 嚮往 揮灑夢 想 的天空。 一旦 Wylie 手 握 方向盤,眼神卻又冷靜沉著,與同齡人相比,Wylie 顯 得思考 深且 廣。當同 齡人 正 為駕照奔 忙 時,Wylie 已 經在考慮 開飛機,和 準備 考 飛 行員的各種 飛 行課程。 駕駛飛機 讓人更大程度上突破了被地域限制的束縛, 也讓 Wylie 突破了自己,他開始想得更遠、更宏大。 Wylie 說:「 我不想靠父母給錢那樣生活。 我要證 實給所有人看,我們這一代也是有夢想有能力的。當然 我要自食其力!」 發自內心的一念,讓 Wylie 開拓出了 一條創新的商業模式,助人也助自己圓夢。

PIONEERING A COMPANY Adopting the sharing economy model, Wylie established a supercar sharing business. He combined peer-to-peer sharing with the buying, selling, and renting of second-hand vehicles. To establish his business, he purchased multiple supercars for his fleet and also attracted many supercar owners to join in peer-to-peer car rental. For 88│

隨著科技的發明,車速的極限與物理美,吸引著一 代又一代的愛好賽車、跑車人士。 Wylie 很早就對兼具 速度與靈敏操控的超 跑情有獨鍾,於是他與一群酷愛 跑車的朋友建立對超跑更多的理解和設想。 只是,一 輛跑車價格從十幾萬到幾百萬美金不等,這價格對中產 階層而言,只能望洋興歎。即使愛車人樂此不彼地談論、 夢想駕駛超跑,絕大多數卻不一定真有機會親駕夢寐以 求的超 跑。當 Wylie 想到和自己一樣愛車的車友不能


supercar vehicle owners, he offered them discounts for purchasing more cars as well as profitable returns for offering to share their cars with other members of the “supercar club.” This way, ever yone could experience the exhilarating experience of taking the wheel in a supercar, while paying only a fraction of the burdensome cost. He built his supercar club with all supercar lovers in mind, not just those wealthy enough to afford one. As he expands his business, Wylie stays grounded, always remembering that his starting point is a simple love for cars. Along the journey, he has attracted many like-minded people to join him in growing the business. Wylie is determined to find success in his own right, rather than relying on his parents’ affluence. “I don’t want to live a life relying on my parents’ money. I want to prove to everyone that our generation also has the ability to dream. I will of course make my own living!”

親自體驗超跑,他開始琢磨、研究怎麼互助。 雖然 Wylie 在相對富裕的環境下長大,但很早就 離 家留學 海 外 的 他,在 駐 足 的 城 市 都 有 打工 的 經 歷, 因此他更能體諒車友在資金上的苦衷。 Wylie 於是借 鑑時下流行的商業理念:共享經濟,開創新型態的「 超 跑俱樂部 」。這種商業模式是一個涵蓋 超 跑租賃、二 手車買賣及租車行並行的多元商業綜合 體。 Wylie 為 「 超跑俱樂部 」買進多輛二手超跑,並利用租金優惠吸 引了愛車人 加入。 會員可以 共享多款 超 跑、體 驗 超 時 速的迷人。並且對超跑車主有更多再次購車時的優惠, 以及回饋「 共享 」所得的利潤。這樣,即使所有加入會 員的人士共同分擔了一部分超跑的昂貴價格,也使各車 主也能享受到體驗各種其他超跑的非凡駕駛表現。「 超 跑俱樂部 」是為了愛車人而建的樂園,而非以身價資產 劃分的小圈子。 天道酬勤,Wylie 秉持愛車、惜車的初衷,吸引志 同道合的 Vincent Liu 和 Edison Mo 加盟協助,各顯 其能,一同幫助 Wylie 闖過了艱難的草創期,並 逐 漸 發展茁壯。 社會日新月異,新一代創業不僅僅要求掌握 必須的常識,更需要創造力與執行力一併到位,才能肩 負開創新局的重責大任。

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Windansea Beach in San Diego. (Shutterstock)

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ELITE TRAVEL

SAN DIEGO 聖地亞哥:完美體驗 English text by Channaly Philipp | Chinese text by Ying Han Photography by Channaly Philipp and Shutterstock

A

t high tide, waves crash against the windows of The Marine Room restaurant, a startling sight and sound. The fine dining restaurant sits right on the beach, so close to the ocean’s edge that if you look out toward the Pacific, you can’t see sand—only waves. The shifting sunset views are so captivating, they almost steal the spotlight from your dinner companions. Cliffs rise up in the distance, with city lights flickering. When it’s not high tide, the lapping of the waves is soothing to the point of sending you into a reverie, only interrupted once in a while by people emerging out of the ocean, like mermaids or mermen. They turn out to be long-distance swimmers, who make the aquatic journey from those faraway cliffs. Outdoor life is a constant in San Diego, California. Life in, or on, or above the water is busy. It’s not just leopard sharks or seals, but also all manner of human

陽光明媚的天氣、戶外運動及美食,使聖地亞哥成為一 流的旅行地。 漲潮時,巨浪衝打在 The Marine Room 飯店的落 地玻璃上,伴著嘩嘩響聲,這是何等令人驚嘆的景觀! 這間高級餐廳坐落於沙灘上,離水邊近,望向太平洋, 不見沙灘,只見波浪。日落的景色也是如此迷人,讓人 無暇顧及其他。浮現遠方的懸崖峭壁,伴隨著城市華燈, 忽隱忽現。當潮汐稍小時,浪花輕打岸邊,漫遊遐想中, 偶爾思緒又被那浮出水面、疑似美人魚的生靈打斷,原 來那是從遠端懸崖下一路游泳過來的人們。 戶外運動在加利福尼亞州的聖地亞哥始終深受歡 迎。無論水上、水中還是水下,都是一派繁忙的景象, 划槳、衝浪、皮划艇、滑翔傘……船員、潛水員、漁民 和飛行員——從空中、陸地到海洋,從上到下幾乎都有。 豐盛的農產品 常年陽光充足的天氣成就了飲食行業,「 從農場到餐桌 」 (farm-to-table)風行於聖地亞哥。

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life: paddlers, surfers, kayakers, boaters, divers, fishermen, and paragliders—there’s almost always a connection from land or air to the sea.

2017 年夏天,當我參觀聖地亞哥的 Vista 農貿市 場時,各個攤位上( 其中許多都提供樣品 )農產品豐富 多采,美味又好看,令我驚嘆不已。隨行前往的還有主 廚 Angelo Sosa,他曾在紐約市與主廚 Jean-Georges

THE GLORY OF PRODUCE That perfect, ever-sunny weather has repercussions for the plate; and the farm-to-table game is strong in San Diego. When I visited the Vista Farmers Market in San Diego County last summer, I was amazed by the opulent profusion of beautiful and delicious produce at each farm stand (many of which offered samples). I visited with chef Angelo Sosa, who spent many years in the New York City region working with chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten before moving to the San Diego area a year and a half ago. For him, the produce was an immediate revelation: It tasted vibrant, making the flavors of East Coast produce seem muted in comparison. “I found the shift in my cooking to be more produce-driven. The produce is really the star. The ingredients are so pure, I find that I’m cutting back on the salt, and I don’t need to add more seasoning to highlight the ingredients,” he said. At one stand, donut peaches beckoned. Sosa took a bite, pinpointing notes of coconut and pineapple. We then came to a stand selling Hass avocados. We are deep in the heart of avocado country here, surrounded by hills of avocado groves, cut through by the so-called Avocado Highway. Ever since I read that chef Jessica Koslow would not serve avocado toast if she were in New York, I had a singular goal to taste a bona fide Southern California avocado in its native habitat. Once you taste these avocados, you see what she means: They are creamy and nutty to perfection, and I realized what I’d consistently been having on the East Coast was either just a bit underripe or else overripe with a faint taste of fermentation. It’s not the end of the world, but to truly taste avocado in its glory, you have to have it where it grows. Sosa gives me a parting gift: jalapeños from his garden— they hit me right away with a bold, almost laser-sharp minerality I’d never known these peppers to have. On my way down the coast, I made a stop in Rancho Santa Fe, at Chino Farm, which is renowned for its produce. The strawberries alone are unbelievable: just pure essence of strawberry, perfectly ripe in full, unabashed splendor. 92│

Vongerichten 一起工作多年,一年半前搬到聖地亞哥 地區。 他一來即驚喜地發現這裡的農產品非常新鮮美 味,令東海岸的農產品相比之下顯得遜色。 「 我發現我的烹飪轉變為更加以農產品為主。農產 品真的是主角。有了這麼純正的配料,我發現我正逐漸 削減鹽的用量 ,我不再需要添加過多的調味料來妝點食 材。」他說。 在一個攤位前,蟠桃十分誘人。Sosa 嘗了一口, 識別出椰子和鳳梨的風味。我們又來到一個賣 Hass 酪 梨( 又名牛油果或鱷梨,avocado)的攤位。這個地方 是出產酪梨的中心,周圍的山上全是酪梨樹林,連中間 穿過的高速公路也被稱為「 酪梨高速 」。 以前讀到廚師 Jessica Koslow 說她在紐約不願用 酪梨時,我就萌生念頭至酪梨原產地品嘗真正的南加州 酪梨。一旦品嘗過這些酪梨,就會明白 Koslow 所指: 這裡的酪梨太完美了——富含奶油味和堅果味,我意識 到自己一直以來在東海岸使用的酪梨要麼未完全成熟, 要麼過熟而帶有一點發酵的味道。這或許不是什麼大不 了的事,但是想要真正品嘗到酪梨的純正口味,還得在 它生長的地方。 Sosa 告別時給我一份禮物:他花園裡長的墨西哥 辣椒——即刻一股濃烈的、幾乎像鐳射光一樣銳利的礦 物香氣襲來,我從來不知道辣椒可以有這樣的味道。 沿著海岸線行駛,我在 Rancho Santa Fe 以農產 品聞名的 Chino 農場停下腳步。單單草莓就讓人不可思 議:純粹的草莓味道,成熟,恰到好處。 George’s at the Cove 是位於 La Jolla 高級社區 的著名餐廳。在這間已有 33 年歷史的餐廳享用晚餐是 個不容錯過的體驗,大廚 Trey Foshee 已在那裡工作 18 年,餐廳有 75%到 95%的產品來自 Chino 農場。 「 現在紅薯很火紅。」Foshee 說。「 這就是 Chino 的魅力。一個是多樣性,另外是生長良好。」「 在農貿 市場,你可能買不到當天限採的農產品,他們可能是前 一天或前兩天採摘的。」而 Foshee 則是在上班的路上 去農場,所以菜單上的產品都是當天現採摘。對於玉米 或番茄這樣的農產品來說,這是個關鍵。 問及他的烹飪風格,他會告訴你,「 如果我們盡善 盡美地去做一切事情,那我們所做的事情是很簡單的。 食材是產生最大差異的原因,甚至超過我們的技術。」 玩什麼? 遠 足: 去 海 灘 散 步 非 常 有 趣, 無 論 是 在 海 風 吹 拂 的 Windansea海 灘 觀 看 衝 浪 者, 或 拍 攝 夕 陽, 還 是 在 Children’s Pool海灘看海豹。如果喜歡超脫塵俗的體


Clockwise from left: Chef Angelo Sosa holding avocados at the Vista Farmers Market; dessert at The Med is a must; tacos at Puesto. (Channaly Philipp)

One of the restaurants that uses Chino’s produce is the iconic George’s at the Cove in the upscale neighborhood of La Jolla. Dinner there is an experience not to be missed. Of the restaurant’s 33 years, chef Trey Foshee has been there for 18. Depending on the time of year, 75 to 95 percent of its produce comes from Chino. Right now, “sweet potatoes are insane,” Foshee said. “It’s the Chino magic touch. Part of it is the variety, and it’s grown well,” he said. “At the farmers market, you might not get produce that’s necessarily been picked the same day. It might have been picked the day before or two days before.” Foshee makes a stop at the farm on his way to work, and so the produce is

驗,則可以去Torrey Pines國家自然保護區,穿越稀有 Torrey松和沿海鼠尾草的森林後,寬闊的全海景展現在 眼前,真是一個令人滿意的回報。

水上運動:體驗聖地亞哥以水為中心的生活方式,如游 泳、釣魚或潛水。如果想在南加州的沙灘極限運動中試 探一下自己的身手,可以註冊La Jolla的Surf Diva衝 浪學校。這個學校由雙胞胎姐妹Izzy Tihanyi和Coco Tihanyi作為全女子衝浪學校而發起,但現在是針對不同 年齡和性別的人開設衝浪和滑水槳板課程。 賞海馬觀魚:旱鴨子們可以參觀加利福尼亞大學聖地亞 哥分校Scripps海洋學研究所公共宣傳中心的Birch水族 館,欣賞水中生物也是個備受家庭歡迎的活動。

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picked the same day it is on the menu. When it comes to produce like corn or tomatoes, that’s key. Ask him about his cooking style, and he’ll tell you, “If we’re doing everything perfectly, what we’re doing is something pretty simple. The ingredients are making the biggest difference, more than our technique.” ATTRACTIONS From museums to hikes, there’s no shortage of fun ways to pass the time. Go for a Hike

A beach walk is great fun, whether on windswept Windansea Beach, where you can watch surfers and

take sunset photos from the little surf shack there, or at Children’s Pool Beach, where seals and humans can get fairly close to each other (despite official warnings to the contrary). For an almost otherworldly experience, go to Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve, where panoramic ocean views are the reward after hiking through a woodland of rare Torrey pines and coastal sage. Get on the Water

To get a taste of San Diego’s water-centric lifestyle, you can swim, fish, or dive, but if you want to try out your hand—and legs—at the ultimate Southern California beach pastime, sign up with La Jolla-based Surf Diva Surf School, which was started by twin sisters Izzy and Coco Tihanyi as an all-girls surf school. It now offers lessons for males and females of all ages and abilities in surfing and paddle boarding. Gaze at Fish and Sea Horses

Landlubbers can get a look at life underwater at the Birch Aquarium at Scripps, the public outreach center of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California–San Diego. It’s especially popular with families. Go Museum Hopping

There are more than 90 museums in San Diego County. The epicenter is Balboa Park, with 17 museums and cultural institutions that could keep visitors busy for weeks on end. Highlights include the Japanese Friendship Garden, which delves into Japanese culture; the Timken Museum of Arts, with its collection of European old masters and Russian icons; and the photo-ready botanical building, with its lily pond. Downtown, the USS Midway Museum is hugely popular and gives a glimpse of life aboard an aircraft carrier. La Jolla also boasts a fascinating, under-the-radar gem, the Map & Atlas Museum.

Child meets fish at Birch Aquarium.(Channaly Philipp) Right page: Sunset views from the dining terrace at The Med at La Valencia Hotel.(Channaly Philipp)

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Catch a Play or Concert

遊 博 物 館: 聖 地 亞 哥 有90多 個 博 物 館。 作 為 中 心 的

Founded in 1947 by Gregory Peck, Dorothy McGuire, and Mel Ferrer, La Jolla Playhouse is an award-winning theater, and 30 of its productions have moved on to Broadway.

Balboa公園,擁有17個博物館和文化機構,可以讓遊客 們充實地過幾個星期。其中亮點包括鑽研日本文化的日 本友好花園,收藏歐洲大師作品和俄羅斯肖像的Timken 藝術博物館,還有植物園等。此外,USS Midway博物

ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

館非常受歡迎,可以在那兒一探航空母艦上的生活。La

WHERE TO STAY In La Jolla, it is hard to miss the Spanish architecture-inspired La Valencia Hotel, known as “The Pink Lady.” It was a hangout for Old Hollywood’s glamorous celebrities, such as Clark Gable and Greta Garbo, and current celebrities love its discreet villas. At its restaurant, The Med, the kitchen staff, led by chef Alex Emery, is talented and inventive, and the oceanside dining terrace views are gorgeous. Make sure to leave room for pastry chef Ginger Niles’s excellent desserts.

Jolla還擁有一個引以為豪、迷人的Map & Atlas博物館。 聽 音 樂 會 看 戲: 由Gregory Peck、Dorothy McGuire 和Mel Ferrer創於1947年的La Jolla Playhouse,是一 個屢獲殊榮的劇院,曾出產過30部前往百老匯的作品。 住哪裡?在La Jolla,很 難 錯 過 西 班 牙 建 築 風 格 的La Valencia酒店。好萊塢名流,如克拉克 · 蓋博(Gable) 和葛麗泰 · 嘉寶(Greta Garbo)以及不少當前的明星 都喜歡來這裡。其餐廳「The Med」的海濱露台景色優 美,主廚Alex Emery領導的廚房團隊富有才華和創造 力,糕點廚師Ginger Niles製作的甜點更堪稱一絕。 │95


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尊享南加精緻生活,請到 The Oaks at Portola Hills全新社區 The Oaks at Portola Hills全新社區位於美麗的南加 州的Lake Forest森林湖市,週邊配套好。10分鐘就到爾 灣, 地段超好。隸屬優秀的Saddleback Valley學區,學 校評分為9分和10分。 新房地勢高,風景一流,眺望山 谷和海景。鐵門社區,治安好,臨近購物商城、以及眾 多美食餐廳。 新房是一層或兩層別墅,售價從$100萬美元起,面 積從2,692 至5,283平呎,3至6臥室,2.5至5.5浴室,2至3 車庫。樣品房每天開放,歡迎華人經紀人合作。

1582 Sunset View Drive, Trabuco Canyon, CA 92679 Dimensions are approximate in nature and are not intended for final reference. We reserves the right to change homesites, floor plans and home prices and make modifications in materials and specifications at any time without prior notice. Home purchasers will automatically be members of a Homeowners Associations (HOA) for which monthly dues will be charged. Check with a Sales Associate for additional information regarding HOA dues.


THE DATEJUST The archetype of the modern watch has spanned generations since 1945 with its enduring functions and aesthetics. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 36

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oyster perpetual and datejust are ® trademarks.

ELITE magazine Jan-Feb 2018 West edition  
ELITE magazine Jan-Feb 2018 West edition