VOLUME 03
THE TURKISH EDITION
SIMIT
p18
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Ibrahim Kasif of Sydney’s Stanbuli dishes up a menu of ultimate comfort food, p20
It’s time we take a trip along the Aegean coastline to taste the beautiful dishes of Turkey. The food is so complex and just uniquely delicious. From the Ottoman Empire to modern-day Turkey, the inheritance of culture and cuisine played a big part in how the food is today; the Uyghurs from the north-west of China with kebabs, Mongolia similarly with manti dumplings. Countless variations of halloumi from Cyprus, and Georgian and Arab influences found in breads like lahmacun and pide. Tomatoes are the ultimate, but relatively new, Mediterranean ingredient, however they feature in so many of Turkey’s dishes. Although it’s almost winter in Australia, we couldn’t help but explore a few of these tomato dishes and more beautiful produce, including Turkish chilli, quince, bulghur, walnuts, yoghurt and mint. In this edition we make beautifully indulgent dishes, and talk to some Australian chefs as well as Turkish locals. If the Turkish spirit Raki isn’t your drink of choice due to its anise-notes, master sommelier Isa Bal is here to share with us the history, and his best picks, of Turkish wine. Ibrahim Kasif of Sydney’s Stanbuli dishes up a menu of ultimate comfort food, including a sour and salty yoghurt soup and a sublime dessert of quince and clotted cream, plus we chat with chef Mehmet Gürs from Istanbul’s highly-acclaimed Mikla restaurant about the importance of locally sourced produce and more.
Lisa & Liz eatable.net.au | @eatablegram
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CONTRIBUTORS
Isa Bal
Cemre Torun & Begüm Yaramancı Ibrahim Kasif
A Thousand Vines p12 Isa is the first and only person from Turkey to have achieved the title of master sommelier, and worked as head sommelier at The Fat Duck restaurant for 13 years, including Melbourne. He lives in London and has just cofounded and opened his restaurant, Trivet, near London Bridge. Isa shares with us insight into Turkish wines and which producers to look out for. “When people think about Turkish wine they should think about the people that make the wines and that grow the vines, they are operating in a very hard environment and despite that they keep going.”
Spirit of Istanbul, p30 Layers of home, p20 Ibrahim is Cypriot-Turkish, secondgeneration Turkish-Australian and the owner of Sydney restaurant, Stanbuli. In this edition, Ibrahim dishes up a menu based around the simple comfort foods he loves to eat at home. “I developed a love for cooking and in particular Turkish food which takes me back to the mainland and northern Cyprus in my travels from a young age.”
Cemre Torun (pictured left) is the food editor of Vogue Turkey and Academy Chair for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, covering Turkey, Greece, Israel and the Balkans. She is also a founder of YEDI, an Istanbul-based food conference, bringing together chefs, producers and leaders around powerful discussions on food. She translates Turkish recipes for us from her book Cooking in Istanbul. Begüm Yaramancı (pictured right), co-author of Cooking in Istanbul is a chef with a passion for fermentation techniques who produces artisanal pickles and ferments.
Editorial director Lisa Featherby Creative director Liz Elton CONTRIBUTORS Isa Bal; Mehmet Gürs;Ibrahim Kasif; Somer Sivrioğlu; Cemre Torun; Derya Turgut; Coskun Uysal; Arman Uz; Begüm Yaramancı. PHOTO CREDITS Cover: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. Inside front cover: Colours of Turkey, Unsplash. Subscribe: Lisa Featherby. Bowl by Gallery Court. Welcome: Interior, Jean Carlo Emer, Unsplash. Stanbuli, Lisa Featherby. Boat, Martin Katler, Unsplash. Contents: Lisa Featherby. Postcard from: Xavier Balderas Cejudo, Unsplash. The social network: Instagram, @fatih_tutak. Wine: Tolga Ahmetler, Unsplash. The classics: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. Plate by Gallery Court. In profile: Photography Seren Dal. Food opener: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. In print: Extracted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden. Layers of home: Lisa Featherby. Spirit of Istanbul: Extracted with permission from Cooking in Istanbul by Cemre Torun and Begüm Yaramancı. Food photography Derya Turgut. Istanbul photography Serhat Beyazkaya, Meric Dagli, Alessio Rinella, Tolga Ahmetler, Unsplash. The list: Svetlana Gumerova, Unsplash and Instagram. Memoir: Halil Ibrahim Cetinkaya, Unsplash. In focus: Derya Turgut. Last drinks: Recipe and photography Lisa Featherby. Inside back cover: Arns Civray, Unsplash. ISSN 2653-0864
The publication and its contents are protected by copyright. All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written authority. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited material. Author recipes are edited, but untested by Eatable. Published by Elton & Featherby (ABN 20370450968). Eatable magazine is printed by Pulse Print Solutions. For custom publishing inquiries please contact hello@eatable.net.au.
08 POSTCARD FROM 10 IN PRINT Turkish Delight. 11 THE SOCIAL NETWORK The modernist cuisine of Fatih Tutak of Turk restaurant. 12 WINE Isa Bal decants Turkish wines for the beginner. 14 IN PROFILE Mehmet Gürs, the FinnishTurkish chef behind Mikla. 16 THE CLASSICS Icli kofte, Turkey’s handmoulded, filled meatball.
VOLUME 03
20 LAYERS OF HOME Ibrahim Kasif of Sydney’s Stanbuli creates ultimate comfort dishes to share. 30 SPIRIT OF ISTANBUL Food writer Cemre Torun translates recipes from her latest cookbook. 42 TABLE OF PLENTY Somer Sivrioğlu’s Mehyanes-inspired meze.
THE
52 IN FOCUS Photographer Derya Turgut takes us on a journey through Istanbul museums. 62 THE LIST Turkish food expert Gamze Ineceli explores Istanbul. 64 MEMOIR Coskun Uysal remembers the joy of ferry rides and simit. 65 LAST DRINKS Quince Gin Sour, a zero waste cocktail that’s a take on a classic.
TURKISH
EDITION
07
POSTCARD FROM
A hot air balloon floats above the distinctive terrain of Cappadocia
09
Braised spinach and rice and Kuru fasulye, Braised lamb and white beans Recipes p28 & p29
Linguine with anchovy, kale and burrata
Recipe p36
RECIPES
by
IBRAHIM KASIF
Layers of home From Turkish-Cypriot soup to vegetables steeped in folklore, a very beautiful Turkish feast is the ultimate in comfort cooking.
PHOTOGRAPHY
by
L I S A F E AT H E R B Y
Spirit of Istanbul
Translated recipes from the book Cooking in Istanbul draw inspiration from the region’s ingredients and rich and diverse culinary culture.
RECIPES
by
CEMRE TORUN
PHOTOGRAPHY
by
and
B E G Ü M YA R A M A N C I
D E R YA T U R G U T
Baked quince with sour cherries Recipe p34
Table of plenty
Inspired by the meyhanes of Turkey, drinking culture includes good conversation with meze - pour the Raki and share some bar snacks from Anason. RECIPES
by
SOMER SIVRIOGLU
and
PHOTOGRAPHY
by
L I S A F E AT H E R B Y
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