Eatable Volume 05: The Renewal Edition

05 RENEWAL

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WELCOME

Prawn and lemon risotto, p28.

We hoped that this edition would reach you on the second day of spring, at a time we thought we would be celebrating the end of another Covid lockdown. Our work, like many of yours, has faced major obstacles during this time, and while we hoped that life would have reverted to some kind of normalcy by now, we are still facing what feels like the unknown. But here we are, forging onward, and we want to dedicate this edition to renewal.

There are many things we can talk about that fit this theme – all that is starting to flourish again – plants and spring feed, babies being born and wonderful seasonal elements. We get a lovely glimmer that those colder days are leaving us as we see shoots and spring flowers start to appear.

It’s a time to reflect on our country, to heal, and rebuild from devastation.

To rethink the new, particularly with how we eat and grow our food, drink our wine, and what that means for a sustainable future. It’s a celebration of old and new, intertwined culture, adapting to new ingredients, people, ideas, and techniques. More importantly, this is a time to look after ourselves and daydream of those idyllic places to explore, because while we are still living through a pandemic, there is a time coming when we won’t be. If life has taught us anything over the past years, it is that we are resilient, and we know there is always opportunity to start over, make change and enjoy turning over a new leaf.

Lisa & Liz eatable.net.au | @eatablegram

05

CONTRIBUTORS

Shanteh Wale

Nadia Bailey

Matty Hirsch

EXTRACTS In print: Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook.

Fire fighters, p18 Shanteh Wale is the head sommelier at Sydney’s AwardWinning Quay restaurant. She is a rising star in the ranks of sommeliers in Australia having been three times nominated for the Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year award. She also judges and writes for various drink publications. In this edition, she looks into wineries recovering from bushfire devastation, stating, “I believe working as a sommelier comes with the responsibility of representing and supporting the wine industry, in both its triumphs and sorrows.”

Acts of repair p28 Nadia Bailey is a Melbourne-based writer and editor, whose work has appeared in publications like Australian Gourmet Traveller and Good Food. In this issue, she delves into the story behind the Indigenous-run social enterprise, Black Duck Foods, founded by Bruce Pascoe which is working to revitalise Australia's native food systems. “The abundance of native foods available to us in Australia is extraordinary. That they’re being renewed and embraced is something worth celebrating.”

In the mix, p76 Matty Hirsch is a Manhattan-born, Sydney-based food and drinks writer, critic and editor. He began his career as a maître d’ at New York’s legendary Gotham Bar and Grill, before moving to Australia and managing pubs and wine bars for the better part of a decade.

He is currently chief bar reviewer for the WA Good Food Guide, and Eatable’s newly appointed drinks editor. In this issue, he rounds up some bar batch cocktails perfect for drinking right now.

“The variety of pre-batched cocktails out there is at an alltime high, and the calibre – from conception through to execution – is staggeringly impressive.”

Editorial director Lisa Featherby Creative director Liz Elton Drinks editor Matty Hirsch CONTRIBUTORS Nadia Bailey, Jacqui Challinor, Penny Lawson, Tim Malfroy, Kara Rosenlund, Shanteh Wale CREDITS Cover: Photography Alicia Taylor. Styling Lisa Featherby. Inside front and back covers: Photography Sven King, Unsplash.

Subscribe: Photography Alicia Taylor. Welcome: Photography courtesy Bianca, Alicia Taylor and Adam Gibson. Contents: Photography Alicia Taylor. Postcard from: Photography Bhupesh Pal, Unsplash. Spotlight: Photography courtesy Schloss Schauenstein.

In profile: Photography Adam Gibson. Cheese: Photography Shutterstock. Wine: Photography Klara Kulikova, Unsplash.

The classics: Photography Lisa Featherby. Acts of Repair: Photography Nick Cubbins (portrait), Shutterstock and courtesy Blue Duck Foods. Food opener: Photography Alicia Taylor. A Spring Menu: Photography Alicia Taylor. Glasses by Riedel. Modern Take: Photography Rob Palmer. Le Jardin Tranquille: Photography Alexandre Guirkinger. In Focus: Photography Fabio Fistarol, Fares Nimri, Chris Leipelt, Joaquin Rivero, Hasan Almasi, Ibrahim Rifath, Jonathan Ford and Ashwin Vaswan, Unsplash. The List: Photography Kara Rosenlund, Instagram, courtesy Bianca and Same Same. Memoir: Photography Markus Winkler, Unsplash. Last drinks: Photography Lisa Featherby.

ISSN 2653-0864

The publication and its contents are protected by copyright. All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written authority. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited material. Author recipes are edited, but untested by Eatable. Published by Elton & Featherby (ABN 20370450968). Eatable magazine by Eatable Australia is printed by Pulse Print Solutions in Melbourne, Australia. For custom publishing inquiries please contact hello@eatable.net.au.

Modern Take: Extracted with minor style changes from Take One Fish

by Josh Niland, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $55, available in stores nationally.

Photography ©Rob Palmer.

Le Jardin Tranquille: Extracted with minor style changes from Septime, La Cave, Clamato, D’une île by Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat, with Benoit Cohen, published by Phaidon. On sale 30 September 2021, RRP $79.95. phaidon.com.

Memoir: Extracted with permission from World Travel by Anthony Bourdain with Laurie Woolever, published

by Bloomsbury.

On sale now, RRP $29.99.

VOLUME

08 POSTCARD FROM

10 IN PRINT

Uncomplicated menus.

11 SOCIAL NETWORK Ikebana artist, Toru Watarai.

12 IN SEASON Blood oange.

14 IN PROFILE Talking to Tim Hardy, of Marion Bay’s Van Bone restaurant.

16 CHEESE TALK

Penny Lawson on fresh spring cheeses.

18 WINE Shanteh Wale on the devastation of the bushfires and recovery of the wine industry.

20 SPOTLIGHT Schloss Schauenstein, one of the world’s most sustainable restaurants.

23 DECANTED A field blend to drink this spring.

24 THE CLASSICS Pastizzi, the Maltese street-snack.

26 OBSCURITIES Wild honeycomb

by Tim Malfroy.

28 ACT OF RELIEF

Nadia Bailey shares the story behind Bruce Pascoe’s Indigenous-led Black Duck Foods.

34 THE SPRING TABLE

A seasonal affair.

44 MODERN TAKE

Josh Niland’s latest book, Take One Fish is a seafood masterpiece.

56 LE JARDIN TRANQUILLE The recipes behind wine bar Septime and their farmhouse, D’une île.

64 IN FOCUS UNESCO world heritage sights to explore.

72 THE LIST

Photographer Kara Rosenlund shares the ultimate low-fi weekend in Brisbane.

74 DESIGN Austin Proper Hotel.

75 MEMOIR Ho Chi Minh City through the words of Anthony Bourdain.

76 LAST DRINKS

Pre-batch cocktails for home drinking, created by some of our favourite bars.

POSTCARD FROM

Revelers gather in Vrindavan, Uttar Pradesh, India, for Holi, the Festival of Colours. Holi is a celebratory day to mark the end of winter, the onset of spring, and new beginnings.

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IN PRINT

“A sense of renewal comes upon me each time I work with incredibly fresh and sweetly scented ingredients for a salad. I would rather make salads than almost any other dish.”

Alice Waters on uncomplicated menus from The Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook, 1984.

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THE SOCIAL NETWORK

@watara_ikebana

Watarai Toru

43.4k followers

Balancing act

The arrangements of Japanese Ikebana artist Toru Watarai have a minimal, sculptural elegance that evoke the fluidity of nature and, it would seem, a defiance of gravity.

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IN SEASON

Blood orange

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This variety of citrus brings a beautiful bold note to spring, courtesy of its unique bleeding colour.

The last of winter’s citrus is coming to an end, but blood oranges are really at their very best at this time of year. The unique bleeding fruit always provides inspiration for us in the early days of winter, but these citrus are sweeter and juicier later in the season, making their flavour perfect in early spring.

How should you be using them? One of our favourite ways is to thinly slice them, including the rind, and cook in a light syrup for an upside-down orange cake. You can maximise that sanguine colour - cooking them will deplete that slightly - and serve them as segments in a salad with crumbled goat’s cheese and salt-baked baby beetroots, or with a seafood starter such as grilled prawns with fennel and blood orange slices. They are heavenly served with a light and fresh yoghurt panna cotta for dessert and when juiced, their colour transforms any citrus cocktail - think a blood orange maragarita - into something bold and inviting.

There is no way to tell how bloody your blood orange will be, except to cut it open.

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IN PROFILE

Hyper-local

A small scale restaurant in Tasmania built from the ground up.

WORDS

From left: Van Bone in Marion Bay; Chef Tim Hardy; The dining Room; Escargot; General grounds manager Joe Nalder in the vegetable patch.

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L I S A F E AT H E R B Y

and

It started as a vacant patch of overgrown grass in one of Tasmania’s most stunning surrounds: the pastoral hills of Marion Bay. Van Bone, a 16 seat restaurant, was literally built from the ground up by chef Tim Hardy and partner Lauren Stucken. It’s a place that has real connection to the landscape, where food and wine is served only from small, local organic producers.

It was working at Garagistes in Hobart where Hardy began to appreciate produce that was harvested and served within 24 hours. Cooking at Brae restaurant cemented the idea to implement gardens into the menu at Van Bone and grow on a smaller scale.

Hardy calls his cooking style ‘seasonal and modern Tasmanian’ and uses nothing outside of the state, and the wine list is also reflective of that. Fish comes from a local fisherman that Hardy deals with exclusively. He sources other produce on the days the restaurant isn’t open, getting everything prepared for the few days it is.

The menu runs as six small snacks, then four dishes and a couple of desserts. The structure stays the same, but produce varies. Local Peking ducks, for example, have alternating garnishes based on what’s growing well. The ducks come from a producer just two hours away.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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ADAM GIBSON

Every morning the wood-fire oven is lit. Vegetables from the garden that need high intensity go in. Ducks are roasted on the crown until pink and sliced to serve.

As the day evolves, stocks are left to simmer overnight, along with onions for a jus. Salt water, collected from the bay, gets evaporated into crystals, too.

The kitchen garden plays the largest role - it took a long time to build up the topsoil to create the right environment for the plants, and it’s a necessity to grow things that suit the climate. The landscape itself called for natives - grasses that flower fill the voids, and there is kunzea, salt bush and other edibles. “Whether it is weird or wonderful, if grown, it just needs to be delicious,” according to Hardy. Carrots that grow particularly well in the garden are pulled from the ground just moments before service, they get cooked in a goat’s whey that comes in buckets as a bi-product of the nearby regenerative goat farm, Tongola.

Hardy finds ways to create dishes like goat’s whey caramels with the leftovers.

The restaurant epitomises small scale, and everything coming through the doors has a real connection to that story, as well as to the landscape in which it was grown.

‘Escargot’ (pastry snails with Tongola goat’s curd) MAKES ABOUT 50 CANAPÉ SIZE PIECES | PREP TIME 30 MINS | COOK 12 MINS

The pastries make a large batch, but you can freeze uncooked pastries, or halve the recipe.

500g plain flour

¾ tsp salt 7.5g (about 1 sachet) dry active yeast 350g cultured butter, diced (room temperature) 240g lukewarm milk

1 egg, lightly beaten for eggwash 50g Tongola ‘big b’ cheese (or aged cheddar) 300g goat’s curd, such as Tongola curdy, to serve Edible flowers to garnish

1. Add the flour to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, add yeast to one side, the salt to the other, add 100g diced butter and the warm milk. Mix on medium speed for 10 minutes. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and rest for 1 hour at room temperature for the dough to prove.

2. Roll remaining 250g butter into a 10cm x 15cm rectangle between two sheets of baking paper and refrigerate until chilled.

3. Roll dough to a 12cm x 40cm rectangle, place the chilled butter in the middle and fold over the top dough to cover the top one-third of the butter, fold the other side of dough up to cover the bottom one-third of the butter, then fold the dough in half again like a book. Turn the dough anticlockwise. Roll into 15

another rectangle and repeat folds.

Wrap and refrigerate to rest (1 hour).

Repeat rolling and folding two more times, resting after each turn. Roll out dough to a rectangle about 20cm wide and 5mm thick. Cut in half lengthways and using a pastry brush, brush eggwash over the cut edge only. Grate the cheddar over the dough. Roll the dough towards the egg washed edge into a tight log and refrigerate until chilled (2 hours), then cut 7.5mm-thick rounds (see note).

4. Preheat oven to 190°C. Remove escargot from fridge and prove for 1 hour, then brush with eggwash then bake until golden and puffed (12 minutes).

5. To serve, place a small spoon of curd onto of the escargot and top with many edible flowers.

NOTE Unbaked escargot freeze well. If freezing, allow 4 hours to prove before baking. You can also refrigerate in a container for a few hours, or overnight.

For flowers, use calendula, nasturtium, borage, marigold, brassica, or broad bean leaves, depending on the season.

CHEESE NOTES

Greener pastures The time and place for seasonal spring cheese is right now.

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P E N N Y L AW S O N

The seasons have a huge impact on the flavour, variety and quantity of cheese that we have access to. Now is the time when fresh spring cheeses are abundant, but not so all year round - just like stonefruit in summer, spring cheese has a time and place. Take farmers and cheesemakers Cressida and Michael Cains from Pecora Dairy in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales; their farm is situated in Robertson, two hours south of Sydney on the Illawarra Coast escarpment, set right in the bush with the paddocks amongst a rainforest, with intertwining creeks.

Cressida and Michael are dedicated to gentle farming practices - from pasture management, handling of their livestock, milking, and even renewable energy - and they produce some of the best cheese around. Most remarkably, through their determination and work with local food authorities, they have created the first noncooked raw milk cheese in Australia, called Yarrawa - it’s made in spring, and aged for 100 days before release.

Pecora produce milk for 10 months of the year, from July to May. They work with the natural cycle of the year. Lambs begin to arrive after the winter solstice, and milk production drops after summer solstice.

From the dormant darker winter when the pregnant ewes are all enjoying their break time in lush pasture, to first blossoms arriving in Robertson, comes the cacophony and craziness of lambing. Michael describes this time, even after 10 years as “magic”.

Not all dairy producers work like this, but it creates a natural break in the year to allow for rest before the chaos of lambing starts up again. When the flock are all on the same lactation cycle and eating the same feed, the milk, and subsequently the cheese, really is an expression of time and place on the farm. The first of the milk for the new lambs is abundant. The ewes will give more than their young can consume and it is sweet, almost like you’ve added sugar - this gives the tiny lambs energy and nourishment for growth and survival. Sometimes if lambs are rejected by their mothers, intervention is needed, bringing nappy-clad lambs into the house to bottle feed and keep warm.

When it’s time to start making cheese two to three weeks after lambing, the milk is still sweet and this makes for the most delicate fresh curd - light, bright and grassy. This is turned into fresh curd cheese and their two to six week aged Bloomy cheese.

“The first of the milk for the new lambs is abundant. It is sweet, almost like you’ve added sugar, and this gives the tiny lambs energy and nourishment.”

At Pecora, in the spring they share the milk between the lambs and cheesemaking - milking twice a day. The volume is so high that cheese that has more longevity is also started to be made, and the milk quality is high also, making for the best hard cheeses. It is not only the make-up of the milk but the quantity that determines the cheeses that are made.

Seasonality is also to do with what the flock is eating, and they plant pastures that are not only good for the sheep, but also good for the soil, by capturing carbon.

September is brassicas, rye and oats and then later the cover crops are turnips and radish.

Diversity in the feed is key, and as well as the native flora, there are also lyrebirds, echidnas and a vast array of insects that all make up the ecosystem and have an impact on the health of the sheep and the pastures.

Cressida and Michael - alongside other producers with similar farming practices, such as Prom Country, Holy Goat and Tolpuddle in Victoria and Grandvewe in Tasmania who make similar seasonal cheese - are custodians of the land they are on, and feel a deep responsibility for their part within the ecosystem.

Why go to all this effort? The climate, the animals, the pastures and microbiome all go into creating amazing milk that results in quality cheese with a true taste of place - it should never taste the same, there should always be variation throughout the seasons and that is one of the true joys of great cheesemaking.

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WINE

Fire fighters

The head sommelier of Quay restaurant looks back on the devastation of the bushfires and the road to the winemakers recovery.

WORDS

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S H A N T E H WA L E

Australians are resolute and resilient people.

We show strength in the face of adversity and the determination and spirit of our Australian winemakers in the last few years are testament to that. The 2019 and 2020 vintages proved to be hugely challenging thanks to bushfires and subsequent effects of Covid 19 but there are a few leading estates demonstrating the pursuit of restoration, and hope for a brighter future.

During the fires, Cathy Gain winemaker at Corubyra winery in the Tumbarumba region lost almost onequarter of her vines, some of those aged up to 30 years-old. That’s devastating for an upcoming region to lose vine stock of this age, and almost half of her total vines were damaged through direct heat. David Bowley of Vinteloper in the Adelaide Hills was disastrously hit losing all his vineyards and property. This means his wine bottled for sale, was not possible for release until 2022, and for most varieties perhaps even 2024.

Bowley’s cherished relationships with other growers restores some faith, being a grower himself he makes 18

sure he pays full amount on fruit delivery, rather than the more common system of three payments throughout the year. Bowley has a hopeful and practical mindset, truly remarkable for someone that has had to rebuild absolutely everything from the ground up.

Turon White of Turon wines also situated in the Adelaide Hills spoke highly of the local wine growing community for their collective decision to have a zero-tolerance to making wine in the region with smoke taint – their grapes were sent to the Australian Wine Research Institute, and if levels of smoke were confirmed, those grapes would not be turned into wine for sale – something that could damage the reputation that Adelaide Hills has for quality above all.

Recovery isn’t just the key for Australian winemakers, they are also custodians of the land so are willing to risk everything to represent it. It’s their responsibility to share the knowledge for younger winemakers to have access to previous experience in challenging vintages, such as avoiding mulch, which can be highly flammable under vines in warmer years. Adrian Sparks from Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley is focusing on identifying new blocks in the prized Lovedale vineyard and using non-reflective heat-like grasses to keep the vineyard cool and absorb moisture, after dropping his entire vintage of smoke-tainted fruit on the ground – to lose a whole vintage is crippling.

“Managing the most healthy and balanced vineyard we can is key to insulating our vines from climatic factors,” says Andrew McFadzean from Lerida Estate in Canberra District who lost his entire 2019 crop. To this end, McFadzean is undertaking an entire vineyard renewal project on the Lake George vineyard to revitalise the existing plantings, increase vine health and fruit quality, which is something that can only make the wines better in the long term.

The following wines are a representation of how misfortune can be turned around into a symbol of optimism for the future, and a gesture of revival and restoration for Australian wine.

2021 Courabyra 1 of 11 Pinot Noir Rosé Premium fruit used in Couraybra’s still Pinot Noir is showcased here in the Rosé. Raspberry and red cherry with savory undertones, very crisp acidity and freshness, it’s a bright wine with a touch of saline minerality on the finish. courabyrawines.com

2020 Lerida Estate Rosé 2020 Rosé embodies the spirit of the year more so than any other.

With the Pinot Noir base trashed, winemaker Andrew McFadzean called upon Ashley Ratcliff at Ricca Terra farms to supply them with Grenache to make this wine.

The outcome is a beautiful bright salmon-hued wine with reflections of pink. The nose shows scents of pretty, delicate berry fruits and rose spray. Richly textured midpalate with pink lady apple and a refreshingly dry finish. leridaestate.com.au

“Recovery isn’t just the key for Australian winemakers.

They are custodians of the land, so are willing to risk everything to represent it.”

2020 Turon Artist Series Pinot Noir The Pinot Noir grapes here were sourced from neighbouring Lenswood vineyard, who as a fluke avoided devastation as the winds blew away from their vineyard. This 2020 vintage is a bright wine with crunchy red fruit like a bunch of red currants on the stem, and sunkissed strawberries eaten whole. goodpairdays.com 19

2019 Vinteloper White Label Shiraz This wine has heartfelt meaning to winemaker David Bowley as it was made from some of the last grapes from the property, pre-bushfires.

A signature style of freshness and aromatics with an abundance of mixed berries. Unlike a summer berry pudding, which always looked better than it tasted, this wine over-delivers in flavour with hints of fresh sage leaf and blackberry on the mid-palate, and a long and velvety mouthfeel. vinteloper.com.au

2018 Mount Pleasant Rosehill Vineyard Shiraz This wine was produced before the vineyard was struck by the bushfires from vines planted in 1946 and 1965 – luckily unaffected by smoke or fires, it is a benchmark example of astounding quality Shiraz. An alluring aromatic wine with pristine red raspberry and alpine strawberries, rose and purple violets, it’s worth the price tag just for the aromas. A few hours in the decanter shows up more nutmeg spice and granulated coffee. A finely structured wine with acidity and supple tannins that unfold over your palate like the finest quality bamboo sheets. If it was tangible, I’d roll around it in, too. mountpleasantwines.com.au

The 13th Century castle and grounds of Schloss Schauenstein; Oz restaurant signage; One of the intricate dishes of Andreas Caminada.

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AGENT for

CHANGE The chef behind one of the worldʼs most sustainable hotel and restaurants.

Schloss Schauenstein already has something going for it on the sustainability front. Located in Fürstenau, which is officially the smallest city in the world, it’s surrounded by mountains and lakes - and, of course, the Swiss are notoriously good at leading the charge when it comes to sustainability.

Schloss Schauenstein is a boutique hotel in a 13th century castle, run by Swiss chef Andreas Caminada.

Two years ago they won the award for the most sustainable restaurant in the world in the World's 50 Best awards. Apart from it looking like a page out of a pristine fairytale, the hotel is run off hydro energy and hydroelectricity powers every element of the restaurant and hotel rooms. Local produce arrives in reusable packaging (baskets and glass), other packing collected by a local firm who convert it to renewable energy.

There are three levels of dining – a three Michelinstarred restaurant in Schloss Schauenstein which cooks food with Swiss precision in a fine dining setting, a guesthouse where they cook typical local food based on Caminada’s grandmother’s cooking, and the latest offering, Oz (meaning Today in Rhaeto-Romance, the fourth Swiss language). › 21

SPOTLIGHT

Clockwise from top right: The courtyard exterior of Schloss Schauenstein; the dining room of Schloss Schauenstein, head chef Andreas Caminada, looking out to the castle courtyard.

Oz is a vegetarian counter restaurant within the castle, but what that means to Caminada might be a little different to others. Here they create dishes from the permaculture garden, which has 800 various vegetables and herbs grown within it. Caminada states that they let time take over and more magic happens - that could be that the broccoli is left to grow until it flowers - and the caterpillars that feed on it, which also taste completely of broccoli, all have a place on the menu. Occasionally, they do serve meat like game and pigeons from local farmers who are specialised in sustainable farming and animal welfare, and seafood caught by local fishermen. As we see more chefs alongisde Caminada - such as Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park - move towards a full vegetable-driven menu, there is more of a spotlight on permaculture, the soil and vegetables being at the forefront to sustainable dining. But, plants are one small part of the conversation. According to Caminada, sustainability is not only local, it goes beyond vegetable dishes and game; he also founded the foundation, Uccelin to support the sustainability of the hospitality industry, a program which mentors people by fostering culinary talent. It’s really people that are the key to a sustainable planet - that’s always the best place to start.

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DECANTED

Field of beauty

The drink for spring is a gorgeous field blend of aromatic whites from Marlborough.

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S H A N T E H WA L E

This spring brings hope and for that reason I want to be drinking something that celebrates the zest of life. What could be better than a field blend, which means a wine that comes from multiple varieties grown in the same vineyard, harvested and co-fermented together. It’s like picking a bunch of wild flowers that, despite the varying size, colour and form, is greater than the sum of its parts.

2020 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’ Kensington pride mango flesh, kaffir lime leaf, ginger and white florals. It has the poignancy of climbing jasmine blooms with tropical guava and sea spray.

On the palate a kiss of sweetness lends way to juicy refreshing acidity. $32, cellarhand.store 23

THE CLASSICS

Pastizzi

Layers of flaky lard-spiked pastry make for a very more-ish street-style snack.

WORDS

and

RECIPE

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JACQUI CHALLINOR

While it’s been nothing short of heartbreaking to watch the devastation, I’d be lying if I didn’t say without Covid, I’d still be the person I wasn’t proud of. To strip back the things that didn’t matter and spend time with myself allowed me to identify parts I didn’t like and behaviours that were no longer serving me. I gave up drinking, I moved more, I ate better, I set boundaries and began believing in and respecting myself. As for how food ties into this journey, I’ve been spending time thinking more about the food I grew up with, focusing on perfecting the basics and having more confidence in myself as a cook and what I stand for. Which is how this recipe came to life.

My Mum’s Maltese heritage has been a huge influence on the way I cook and the flavours I love working with, but we haven’t got a lot of written family recipes which is something I’d like to change. We’ve always eaten store bought pastizzi, so I wanted to give making them myself a try during lockdown and after a lot of trial and error, I finally got Mum’s tick of approval. Pastizzi (plural of pastizz) are the Maltese version of street food and are something I grew up eating. They’re a small savoury pastry traditionally filled with ricotta or curried peas. The pastry - somewhere between filo pastry and puff pastry - involves a dough that’s spread with lard and butter, then rolled up, which, when cut, shaped and cooked, turns into a very flaky golden savoury pastry. You can use the dough with various fillings and while it is a bit of a labour of love, it’s well worth the effort. These are best eaten warm and fresh from the oven.

“Pastizzi are the Maltese version of street food and are something I grew up eating. They’re a small savoury pastry traditionally filled with ricotta or curried peas.”

Pastizzi MAKES 24 | PREP TIME 1 HOUR | COOK 20 MINUTES (PLUS OVERNIGHT RESTING)

450g 1 65ml 225g 85g

plain flour tbsp sea salt flakes vegetable oil lard, room temperature unsalted butter, room temperature RICOTTA FILLING 700g ricotta

2 eggs 1. Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix oil and 255ml cold water together and starting on low speed, gradually add liquid to the flour. Once the liquid is incorporated increase the speed and mix for approximately 10-15 minutes or until dough is smooth and elastic. Refrigerate dough to rest (1 hour).

2. Combine butter and lard, mix well to evenly combine. Once rested, remove the dough from the fridge and prepare yourself some space to work, you’ll need a large

amount of clean bench space to stretch the dough. Cut the dough into two even portions and set one aside. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a long, narrow length then evenly spread half the lard and butter mix over the dough. Stretch the dough as thin as possible, maintaining the rectangle shape so that when it comes to rolling you’ve got even layering.

3. Once the pastry is as thin as you can possibly stretch it towards the ends, roll it from the widest length, stretching as you go. You should end up with a long, rope of dough.

Brush with a little lard, cover and refrigerate overnight to rest - you can shape into a loose spiral to fit into a container.

4. For the filling, combine the ricotta and eggs, season to taste with sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper and mix well to combine.

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5. To form the pastizzi, cut each dough log into 12 even pieces.

Working with one piece of dough at a time, turn the dough so that the cut end is facing you and begin to press it out with your fingers, you should be able to see the ridges and layers of pastry forming. It’s best to do this quickly to prevent the fats from melting.

Stretch to about 10cm in diameter and put a spoonful of ricotta in the middle. Fold the dough over to seal, then turn up so the sealed side is facing up, pinch the edges to secure and you should be left with a small split on top. Repeat with the rest of the dough. At this stage, you can freeze the pastizzi (see note).

6. Preheat your oven to 190°C. If you’re baking the pastizzi fresh, place on an oiled tray and bake until golden brown (20-25 minutes).

You may need a few more minutes if baking from frozen.

NOTE If you’d like to freeze some for later, place pastizzi on a tray lined with baking paper, making sure they’re not touching.

Freeze overnight and then transfer to an airtight container.

Pastizzi can also be made ahead a few hours and refrigerated until ready to bake.

OBSCURITIES

A fragile state

Wild honeycomb is a pure reflection of the environment it’s made.

Every wild-produced honeycomb captures time and place and the architecture is unique to each individual bee colony. Comb is made from the bees own bodies and crafted into a profoundly important part of the bee superorganism, by the bees themselves – it can be thought of as the skeleton, skin, womb and liver of the colony, and also acts as a communication network, contributor to social immunity and functions as an extended gut of the colony. The wild honeycomb we harvest is just a small section of the nest - the uppermost part that contains the surplus food stores.

There are times of hyper-abundance of nectar and pollen in the environment - beekeepers call this a honeyflow - which triggers the bees to expand the nest and produce surplus comb. Therefore a beekeeper can take a small section of comb whilst on a honeyflow, without having any impact on the bees.

As a food, wild honeycomb has a delicate structure and is quite different to commercially made honeycomb, which has a thick midrib of artificial beeswax to increase yield. The cell structure of wild comb is very thin and there is no midrib, so when you eat a piece it crushes easily and melts in your mouth, giving a mighty explosion of flavour. Unfortunately, nearly all honeycomb bought and sold is produced on artificial bees wax sheets. Most of what we see on the market is not really even honeycomb - just frames of honey that would usually be extracted in a centrifuge. Our aim is to care for the bees and produce the most natural, bee-friendly honey. Wild honeycomb captures not only the essence of the bee colonies and the landscape, but our life’s work too.

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– Tim Malfroy, Malfroy’s Gold Honey

F E AT U R E

Bruce Pascoe, founder of Black Duck Foods.

A CTS of REPAIR

How an Indigenous-led social enterprise founded by Bruce Pascoe is safeguarding traditional land practices and revitalising the future of native grains in Australia.

WORDS

by

NADIA BAILEY

T

he story of Black Duck Foods begins with the land. The Wallagaraugh River is a glassy, grey ribbon of water spanning from its headwaters in the far southeast of New South Wales to its lower reaches that wind through Mallacoota and Gipsy Point. At Yumburra, a sprawling, 56-hectare property that hugs its banks just inside the Victorian border, stems of mandadyan nalluk, or dancing grass, ripple in the wind. The yellow flowers of the murnong (yam daisy) bob and sway, and tussocks of themeda (kangaroo grass) stretch toward the sky.

It’s on this land that Black Duck Foods – a social enterprise founded by Bruce Pascoe and dedicated to redeveloping traditional food growing and country management processes – does its ground work.

“The grasses and the tubers are predominant focus,” 29

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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NICK CUBBIN

explains Chris Andrew, general manager of Black Duck Foods, from his home in Sydney where he is currently in lockdown. “We look at a range of different endemic species that appear around the property, from spear grass to dancing grass to kangaroo grass.”

At Yumburra, the focus is on replanting what was once uprooted, doing the slow work of restoring the landscape to how it functioned before the country was colonised. The operation is majority Indigenous-led, across both staff and board, ensuring that everything is done within an appropriate cultural framework. Getting the farm up and running hasn’t been particularly easy – Bruce had originally acquired the property for himself, before founding Black Duck Foods at the end of 2019. That was during the drought. Then there were the Mallacoota bushfires. Then the pandemic. But Chris tends ›

F E AT U R E

to takes a sanguine view: building on the food history brought to light by Bruce’s 2014 book Dark Emu, Black Duck Foods is about fostering long-term, systemic change rather than going in for optics or quick fixes.

“Putting people back on Country is a really key aspect of it,” says Chris. “Of the crew, half are Yuin men and another one's an Aboriginal fella from bit further out Western New South Wales. And then there's two balandas – a balanda is a whitefella – which is myself and farm manager, Wayne.”

Growing grains and tubers is part of the story, but, says Chris, it’s bigger than that. “We want to connect more people with the food system – and rather than dehumanise it and take people off Country, there's a way of humanising it and putting people back on to Country.”

The organisation is involved with research and development, education and cultural governance, working to remove policy barriers that Indigenous-run organisations can face. He points out, for example, that the Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code categorises much native produce as “novel food”, which must go through significant regulatory processes before being approved for sale and consumption.

“These foods been used for 65,000 years and they're considered novel,” says Chris. “And getting those foods through that novel food act can be quite onerous.” Pleasingly, they’ve had some success navigating that system and engaging with government stakeholders to advocate for traditional food to be recognised in the code. It’s all part of a wider holistic project: “How do we help mobilise and catalyse change outside the farm gate?”

The visibility of native ingredients in Australian restaurants has seen a meteoric rise over recent decades, with chefs like Kylie Kwong, René Redzepi, Ben Shewry and Jock Zonfrillo working to raise interest and awareness amongst Australian consumers. This is a good thing. But it also limits the access of native ingredients to those who can afford to pay $35 for a plate of pasta garnished with saltbush. Rather than fostering this kind of Indigenous exoticism and confining those ingredients to a rarefied context, Chris wants to see native ingredients go mainstream.

“Looking at opportunities to use that grass back into the food system, what sort of collective action could you do?” says Chris. “You think about setting targets: if we put five per cent of native grain into flour, that allows us to put the story back into our flour systems.

It doesn't change the palate overly, but it does change

some of the characteristics – you're introducing grasses that have got two or three times the protein level of wheat.”

The idea is a simple, yet powerful one. Not only would the introduction of native grains into flour go towards normalising these foods into the mainstream and promoting Indigenous food sovereignty, it also has tangible environmental and economic benefits. In areas where the land is too degraded to support wheat crops, there are hardy species of native grasses that would flourish because they are fit for purpose for the country and climate we live in.

“If we do it right, the food systems and the agricultural systems are not expensive,” explains Chris. “If you get the country back to the way it ought to be operating, it’s not a fight between agriculture and the environment, because you're actually putting the two together.

They’re places where biodiversity thrives.”

The perennial grasses that Black Duck Foods is experimenting with aren't monocultures – you’ll often find two or three different species growing together in the landscape.

“You’ll harvest together because they'll come into grain and seed at the same time,” says Chris. “So there’s an opportunity to move away from the single species to a grain system that gives us, in reality, multigrain.”

Right now, it’s a work in progress. The process of walking back centuries of colonial land practices takes time. “Everybody calls up looking for a bag of native grain flour,” he says ruefully.

“But after 250 years of smashing the joint, you can’t just turn it around all of a sudden. One of the key factors is acknowledging that for most First Nations peoples, they've been denied access to practice these land management systems and adapt over the last couple of hundred years because they've been denied access to land, they've been denied access to the story, and denied access to practice their culture on Country. There’s a notion that 65,000 years of doing something signifies they’re only doing it one way. But Indigenous First Nations culture is not static. There needs to be acknowledgement that this culture is contemporary and it’s adaptive. It's had to adapt to a shifting landscape, well before whitefellas turned up – my ancestors, you know?”

At Yumburra, the organisation actively works to share and collaborate with other Indigenous communities. The team has recently connected

“We want to connect more people with the food system rather than dehumanise it.”

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The Yumburra property where Black Duck Foods is based.

with a group of Yuin women in Nowra who will lead the planting, growing and harvesting of murnong – a practice that, culturally, sits within the women’s sphere.

“There's a big gender governance aspect to a lot of the food systems,” explains Chris. “That's a really important thing because Aboriginal women are often some of the most marginalised in the food industry, and even in developing enterprises and microenterprises. So there's this opportunity to not only acknowledge there’s this whole gender component to the food system, but celebrate the fact that it's bringing women together in a story that men won't be party to.

It's very empowering.”

Chris emphasises the importance of cultural context, ecological stewardship and the right for Indigenous communities to be the ones spearheading the projects. “It’s got to be Indigenous-led. We can’t keep dictating to First Nations people how they fit into this puzzle. We've got to stand back and be invited into their framework.”

This means, for non-Indigenous people, that there’s a lot of learning to be done. One of the major barriers that organisations like Black Duck Foods face is competition from companies that are not Indigenous owned or run.

“We’re constantly conscious of this notion that

Aboriginal people get less than one per cent of the revenue from traditional foods,” says Chris, referring to a 2019 study by Bushfood Sensations which studied the disparity between Indigenous and non-Indigenous run companies within the native foods supply chain.

“People are taking that story, misappropriating it – because the fast way is to go steal it. There are better ways of building that respect and trust and looking at longer term opportunities to celebrate it.”

Can a flawed food system ever be changed from within? Does consciousness-raising even work at all? Chris thinks so. “We want to connect more people with the food system,” he says. “We have one of the best assets in the world in terms of this incredible living culture, and we do little in this country to celebrate it. Food presents an opportunity because we can bring people to a table and through that conversation around a meal, we can talk about language and culture and nations and stories and people. We start learning a little bit more about Australia's truth, our food truth, and our food history.”

Chris hopes that these conversations will serve as an avenue for healing – to rebuild the trust and respect that has been lost and open people’s eyes to the value of traditional land management and food systems. All it will take for the project to succeed is for people to realise the incredible value of what is literally right in front of us.

“We've got the world world's oldest food story, and the world's oldest food systems, and the world's oldest living culture. And we're only really just starting to think and celebrate those aspects. It's more than just growing bush-tucker – it's celebrating traditional agriculture and what that means in terms of the landscape.”

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Setting a spring table, new ways for sustainable seafood and kitchen garden cooking.

Time to bloom Bring bold confetti-like colour and varying flavour profiles to spring dishes using edible flowers and flowering herbs - think violets, marigolds, pea flowers, borage, sunflowers and nasturtiums.

THE SPRING TABLE Embrace the warmer breeze in the air, let’s eat.

Rhubarb and raspberry pavlovas with crème fraîche Recipe p43

RECIPES

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L I S A F E AT H E R B Y

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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A L I C I A TAY L O R

Zucchini flower and tonnato SERVES 6-8 | PREP TIME 20 MINS | COOK 15 MINS

This is a play on the condiment called tonnato, where tuna is blended into a sauce with capers and oil. Instead, we’ve used the flavours as the filling to the fried flowers and served an aioli on the side to complement it.

8 zucchini flowers Aioli and lemon wedges, to serve TONNATO FILLING 180g canned tuna, squeezed of excess moisture

2 tbsp capers in vinegar, finely chopped ¼ white onion finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 6-8 basil leaves, finely chopped Lemon wedges to serve BATTER 100g plain flour 100ml soda water 60ml vodka

1. For tonnato, mix ingredients in a bowl and season to taste.

2. Carefully remove the stamen from the zucchini flower and then fill each flower with tuna mixture. Seal and set aside.

3. Preheat oil to 190°C. For batter, whisk Ingredients in a bowl and season to taste.

Batter should run off a spoon but leave a thin coating, of too thick, thin with a little water.

4. Working with two at a time, dip the zucchini into the batter and drain off excess.

Carefully add to oil and fry turning once until crisp and golden (3-4 minutes). Drain on absorbent paper and serve with aioli and lemon wedges.

Prawn and lemon risotto Recipe p40

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Pickled sardines, anchovies, crostini SERVES 6 | PREP TIME 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS (PLUS PICKLING OVERNIGHT)

This dish is a play on the classic Italian dish of anchovies and butter, but here we have marinated some fresh sardines which, when doused in vinegar and left to cure, are very delicious as a snack. You can also amp this up with a little lemon-dressed herb or shaved fennel salad on top.

½ baguette thinly sliced, 13 ⁄ sourdough loaf, thinly sliced and halved Olive oil for brushing

1 garlic clove, halved for rubbing Softened cultured butter and best quality anchovies, to serve

PICKLED SARDINES

10 butterflied sardine fillets

½ small red onion, thinly sliced into rings

2 garlic cloves, halved 150ml white wine vinegar

1 fresh bay leaf Large pinch salt

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1. For marinated sardines, place the cleaned sardines in a non-reactive plastic container with the onion, garlic and bay leaf, then pour over the sherry vinegar and season with a large pinch of salt. Marinate in the fridge, turning the sardines every few hours until marinated (overnight).

2. Preheat oven to 200°C. Brush the baguette slices with a little olive oil and bake, turning once until golden and crisp (about 5 minutes). Set aside and rub with garlic.

3. To serve, drain sardines and onions, and serve with butter and toasts, with anchovies for extra kick.

Snow pea leaf salad with peas and goat’s curd

Prawn and lemon risotto

SERVES 6 | PREP TIME 15 MINS | COOK 2 MINS

SERVES 6 | PREP TIME 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS

When you have young pea tendrils, they are great for salads like this one. If they are a bit big and the stalks are thicker, then just use them for soups and stir-fries. You can use baby rocket in place of the snow pea leaves if you like.

A risotto is such a simple thing to prepare, and makes for a light shared dish, and you can add any flavour you like. Here we’ve made a very light and zingy lemon and prawn version, which is perfect with the pea salad on the side. If you like, you can swap out the prawns for asparagus or broad beans and make a vegetarian version which uses vegetable stock.

3 cups snow pea leaves 200g podded peas, freshly podded and blanched or frozen and defrosted 100g goat’s curd

1 small french shallot, finely diced

LEMON DRESSING 100ml extra-virgin olive oil 30ml lemon juice

4 tbsp olive oil 350g small prawns, peeled and cleaned (shells and heads reserved)

1 litre (4 cups) chicken stock

4 French shallots 20g butter 240g risotto rice such as carnaroli 60g parmesan Juice and finely grated zest of 1 lemon Small handful of oregano leaves Chilli flakes, to season

1. For lemon dressing, whisk ingredients in a bowl to combine. Season to taste and set aside.

2. Combine peas and leaves in a bowl and dress with dressing, then season to taste. Serve in a bowl and crumble the goat’s cheese over salad and serve.

1. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a saucepan over medium heat.

Add the prawn shells and heads and stir occasionally until shells are toasted and turn orange (2-3 minutes).

Add stock and bring to a simmer, then simmer for 2-3 minutes and drain. Discard shells and reserve stock.

2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add butter and shallots and stir occasionally until the shallots are tender (5-7 minutes). Add rice and stir to coat in the butter (20-30 seconds), then start adding the stock, one ladle-ful at a time, stirring between each addition and allowing the stock to be absorbed before adding the next, until risotto is cooked al dente.

If once you’ve added all the stock, the risotto needs a little more cooking, you can add more water until ready. Season to taste and stir through parmesan.

3. To serve, heat remaining oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add prawns and toss just until cooked through (1-2 minutes). Add chilli and oregano. Stir lemon juice through risotto and spoon onto plates or a platter, then top with prawns and serve.

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Snow pea leaf salad with peas and goat’s curd

Artichokes vinaigrette

Rhubarb and raspberry pavlovas with crème fraîche

Artichokes vinaigrette SERVES 4-6 | PREP TIME 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS

SERVES 6 | PREP TIME 30 MINS | COOK 45 MINS

This is a classic way to serve globe artichokes and it’s also one of the easiest preparations as you don’t need to peel the artichokes beforehand - just let your guests remove the leaves as they go, dipping into the accompanying vinaigrette. It’s best to serve the artichokes warm, but they can also be served cold and cooked ahead.

Individual pavlovas are a very easy dessert to make and very well suited for spring. These are like individual pavlovas really, which you can top with anything you like. The rhubarb can be made ahead and adds a delicious tartness, plus, the addition of a little crushed macadamia adds a bit of nuttiness.

4-6 globe artichokes

1 lemon, halved for juicing

RAVIGOTE VINAIGRETTE 1½ tbsp white wine vinegar

½ tsp Dijon mustard

6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp chopped capers

1 finely chopped French shallot

2 tbsp finely chopped herb, such as parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil

300ml pouring cream 200ml crème fraîche

¼ cup pure icing sugar Raspberries, torn and roasted macadamia, coarsely chopped, to serve

POACHED RHUBARB

1 bunch rhubarb 200g caster sugar

MERINGUES 100g caster sugar

2 large eggwhites 100g pure icing sugar, seived 15g cornflour

1 tsp vinegar

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.

Prep artichokes by cutting the tops off about 2cm in with a serrated knife, then trim the artichoke stems at the base, so they can sit upright on the bench. Rub the cut sides with lemon to prevent oxidisation, then place into the water, cover with a piece of baking paper and a plate to submerge, reduce heat to low and simmer until artichokes are tender and can easily be pierced with a knife through the heart. Drain and keep warm.

1. For poached rhubarb, wash the rhubarb and peel the tough stringy outer peel away, then cut rhubarb into 5cm lengths and place into a heatproof bowl. Scatter over sugar and 60ml water and stir to combine, then place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and cover with foil, then cook gently, turning the rhubarb occasionally until it is tender (about 20-30 minutes; do not overcook). Set aside to cool, then refrigerate until required.

2. For ravigote vinaigrette, whisk vinegar, mustard and a pinch of salt in a small bowl to combine, then gradually whisk in olive oil and stir through remaining ingredients.

2. For meringues, preheat oven to 120°C. Whisk eggwhite until soft peaks form. While whisking, gradually add sugar and continue whisking until smooth and glossy and you can no longer feel sugar particles in the meringue. Stir through the vinegar and cornflour and then place six large spoonfuls onto an oven tray lined with baking paper, leaving space for each meringue to rise. Indent the tops slightly, then bake until meringue is crisp and cooked through (45 minutes). Turn oven off and leave meringues to cool, then remove from oven and set aside to cool. Store in an airtight container until required.

3. Serve artichokes on plates, with vinaigrette to the side for dipping. You can eat the artichokes by pulling off each leaf and sucking on the fleshy part, then when you get to the heart, scrape the fibres away and enjoy.

3. To serve, whisk cream and crème fraiche in a bowl to soft peaks with icing sugar. Dollop on top of meringues in serving bowls. Spoon over rhubarb and raspberries just before serving and serve quickly to prevent the cream from splitting. Scatter over macadamias and serve.

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MODERN TAKE

RECIPES

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JOSH NILAND

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Scotch eggs Recipe p54

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R O B PA L M E R

Master of nose-totail fish butchery, Josh Niland’s latest book, Take One Fish, shows us there’s many clever ways to serve up sustainable seafood.

Spanish mackerel chops cooked in vadouvan Recipe p55

Drunken bass groper, mushrooms and condiments SERVES 4

“The big, fleshy, succulent bass groper really comes into its own here as it soaks up the flavours from the stock. And while this dish is designed to be eaten hot on the day you cook it, another option is to make it a day ahead and store the fish in the stock overnight, then serve it cold the next day,” says Niland. “Depending on the particular fish, the gelatine from the skin and bones can set the stock into a jelly, which is so delicious. The stock itself may be used in other ways; it’s brilliant for cooking mushrooms, chicken, pork and vegetables of all kinds. Similarly, the ginger spring onion sauce also translates very well to a number of other recipes.”

4 150g bass groper darnes, skin on

12 fresh shiitake mushrooms 100g oyster mushrooms 100g enoki mushrooms

1 tsp sesame oil XO sauce, to serve GINGER-SPRING ONION SAUCE 50g finely grated ginger

6 spring onions, thinly sliced 350ml peanut or canola oil 60ml light soy sauce, or to taste

PEPPER, SESAME AND SICHUAN SEASONING

1 tbsp ground white pepper

1 tbsp white sesame seeds

1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns

STOCK 2.5 litres Shaoxing wine 175ml light soy sauce 75g dried shiitake mushrooms 225g peeled fresh ginger, cut into 2–3 mm thick slices

7 spring onions, cut into 5cm batons

2 tbsp ground white pepper

4 star anise

2 garlic bulbs, halved

1. To make the ginger-spring onion sauce, combine ginger and onion in a small heatproof bowl. Heat the oil in a small saucepan until almost smoking, then immediately pour it over the ginger mixture. You should see and hear it sizzling. (If this isn’t happening the oil isn’t hot enough, so return it to the heat and try again.) Season with soy and mix together well. Set aside to cool to room temperature. The sauce will keep in the fridge for up to a week, but the flavour will start to lose its punch over time.

2. For the pepper, sesame and sichuan seasoning, toast ingredients individually in a dry frying pan until aromatic, then use a mortar and pestle to grind into a powder. Spoon into a small bowl and set aside.

3. For stock (see note), add ingredients to a large saucepan with 8½ litres water and bring to the boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Remove from heat. Add fish, cover with a lid and set aside for 10–12 minutes, until flesh is opaque and internal temperature of fish at its thickest part measures 44°C on a probe thermometer. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer fish to a clean plate and gently peel away the skin (it should peel off easily if flesh is cooked). Leave to rest for 3–4 minutes.

4. While the fish is resting, add the mushrooms to the hot stock and leave for 2 minutes to gently warm through.

5. Divide fish pieces among serving bowls, top with the tender mushrooms, drizzle over a little sesame oil and ladle over a little of the stock to finish.

Serve immediately with the ginger-spring onion sauce, Sichuan seasoning and a small bowl of XO sauce.

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NOTE Ingredients, such as XO sauce, Sichuan peppercorns and Shaoxing wine are available from Asian supermarkets and grocers.

The stock recipe here makes a lvery arge batch of masterstock that you can use for different dishes. If you are only making it for this recipe, we recommend halving the amount. The stock can be cooled, then frozen for another use.

Boil well before each use.

Drunken bass groper, mushrooms and condiments

Crumbed herring and kohlrabi remoulade SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

“I can’t think of any other dish that sums up my love for herring quite like this one,” says Josh Niland. “It’s a real crowd pleaser with eaters of all ages and a wonderful way of visually showcasing this incredible fish.

Kohlrabi is great for remoulade as it carries a lovely sweetness that goes so well with the herring, but if you can’t get hold of it, cabbage, and celeriac are good alternatives. However, there really is no substitute for the freshness of herring in this dish, nor the ghee that it is cooked in.”

4 100g herring, scaled only, heads off 150g (1 cup) plain flour

4 eggs 120g (2 cups) panko breadcrumbs (see note) 200g ghee

REMOULADE Juice of lemon, plus extra if needed 200g purple kohlrabi, peeled and thinly sliced 100g natural yoghurt

2 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp freshly grated horseradish

1 large French shallot, diced

1 tsp tiny salted capers, rinsed, drained and finely chopped 30g coarsely chopped cornichons 2 tbsp finely chopped chives 1 tbsp finely chopped tarragon

1. To prepare the remoulade, mix the lemon juice through the kohlrabi in a bowl and season with a pinch of salt flakes. Set aside for a few minutes.

Combine all the remaining ingredients in a separate large bowl. Strain the kohlrabi and add to the bowl, then toss well to coat. Adjust the seasoning with extra lemon juice, salt and pepper if needed.

2. For the herring, I’m going to assume you’re right-handed (if not, reverse these instructions). Place a fish on a chopping board with its head to your left and tail to your right. Draw your knife down the backbone from the head to the tail, cutting along one side of the bone.

3. Cut again to deepen the initial cut, carefully cutting all the way through to open up the fish, leaving the tail intact. Repeat on the other side of the backbone then, using kitchen scissors, snip out the backbone to give a kite‑shaped fish with the tail intact. Use fish tweezers to remove the pin bones and rib bones. Repeat with the remaining herring.

4. Preheat the oven to 100°C. Place the flour in one bowl, beat the eggs in another and tip the breadcrumbs into a third bowl.

5. Holding one of the prepared fish by the tail, dip it first in the flour, then the egg and, finally, the breadcrumbs, pressing gently to coat well. Place on a tray and repeat with the remaining fish.

6. Heat half the ghee in a large frying pan over a high heat to a light haze.

Add two crumbed fish to the pan, skin side down, and fry for about 1 minute, carefully swirling them around to ensure even cooking and colouration. If you don’t do this the crumb will scorch around the edges.

Turn and briefly fry the other side, just to cook the rawness out of the breadcrumbs and add a little less colour than the top side. Place on a lined baking tray and keep warm in the oven.

7. Wipe out the residual fat and breadcrumbs from the pan, then repeat with the remaining ghee and fish.

8. Season the fish with a liberal sprinkling of salt and pepper. Serve the herring with a generous spoonful of remoulade.

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NOTE Panko breadcrumbs are available from most supermarkets, in the Asian section.

Crumbed herring and kohlrabi remoulade

Tuna mapo tofu SERVES 6

“Mapo tofu is one of my favourite dishes. The spicy Sichuan ingredients mixed with the minerality and richness of the tuna and the creaminess of the tofu is such a good match,” says Niland. “I promise you won’t miss the traditional recipe once you’ve tried this version. The paste can be made in advance and stored in an airtight container in the fridge until needed.”

1 tbs Sichuan peppercorns 190g ginger, peeled 20 garlic cloves, peeled

10 French shallots, peeled 375g doubanjiang (see note) 300ml grapeseed oil 80ml (1⁄3 cup) Shaoxing rice wine 50 g caster sugar 125ml (½ cup) tamari

1 tbsp sesame oil 1.8kg minced yellowfin tuna 200g silken tofu, cut into small cubes

1 bunch spring onions, finely sliced 40g (¼ cup) toasted sesame seeds

1 dried red chilli, finely sliced (optional) Steamed short-grain rice, to serve

1. Toast Sichuan peppercorns in a dry frying pan until fragrant, then use a mortar and pestle to grind to a rough powder. Set aside.

2. Place ginger, garlic, shallots, doubanjiang and 150ml of the grapeseed oil in a food processor and blitz to a smooth paste.

3. Heat 100ml of remaining grapeseed oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a high heat. Add paste and fry, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until dried and fragrant, then reduce the heat and simmer for a further 15 minutes, until the rawness from the vegetables has been completely cooked out. Stir in the Shaoxing wine, sugar, tamari and one-third of the ground Sichuan peppercorns, then spoon the mixture into a large bowl.

4. Wipe out the pan, add the sesame oil and remaining 2½ tablespoons of grapeseed oil and heat over a high heat. Working in two batches, add the tuna mince to the pan and fry for 2 minutes, or until the mince is coloured and has separated into individual strands, then stir through the fried paste mixture to combine (see note).

5. To assemble the mapo tofu, return the tuna mixture to the saucepan and warm through over a low heat. Add the tofu, cover with a lid and heat for 3 minutes, then spoon into serving bowls. Top with the spring onion, sesame seeds, chilli, if using, and the remaining ground sichuan peppercorns. Serve with steamed rice, if you like.

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NOTE Doubanjiang is a Chinese fermented broad bean paste, available from Asian supermarkets, it can vary in strength and saltiness, so add the fried paste to suit your taste.

Tuna mapo tofu

Dry-aged Spanish mackerel Diane SERVES 6

“When I first started testing species for prolonged ageing [of fish], a significant stand out was Spanish mackerel,” says Niland. “What began as a clean, lightly salty, mineral-driven flavour profile on day two, morphed into a highly savoury characteristic come days 12 to 16. To achieve a similar result, start with the freshest possible bone-in cut of Spanish mackerel and keep it on a perforated tray in the crisper of your fridge for three days. Then sit uncovered in the main chamber of the fridge for a further 24 hours to dry the skin. The Diane sauce makes the perfect partner for this beautiful fish, and you can take your pick of sides. Treat this recipe as a springboard for making something elaborate for a special dinner.”

1 1kg Spanish mackerel fillet, bone in Grapeseed oil, for cooking

DIANE SAUCE 250g ghee

3 onions, thinly sliced

10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

6 portobello mushrooms, finely sliced

15 thyme sprigs

2 fresh bay leaves

3 rosemary sprigs 250ml brandy

2 tsp Dijon mustard 50ml Worcestershire sauce

2 litres brown fish stock (see note) 150ml pouring cream 100g butter

4 French shallots, finely diced

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped Fish sauce and juice of 1 lemon to taste

1. For Diane sauce, heat ghee in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add onion and garlic and cook until lightly coloured (20 minutes). Season well with salt, add mushroom and herbs and cook until all mushroom juices evaporate (30 minutes). Add brandy and cook until reduced by half, then stir in mustard and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add Worcestershire and stock, bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by one-third (15 minutes).

Remove from heat and stand for 30 minutes to infuse. Strain, discarding solids, and season to taste. (At this point, the stock can be frozen and thawed when required.)

2. Bring mackerel to room temperature for at least 1 hour before cooking.

Prepare a charcoal grill until charcoal has cooked down to hot embers.

Divide coals to create a cooler side and a more intense side of the grill.

3. Brush skin of mackerel with a little oil and season with salt flakes. Grill skin side down over high heat for about 4 minutes to develop good colour. Turn onto the bone side and transfer to the cooler side of the grill, then cook for a further 8–10 minutes to set the protein until internal temperature registers 50°C on a probe thermometer. Remove from the grill and rest. This is critical so the residual warmth continues to set the protein without creating a dry, overdone texture.

4. While the mackerel is resting, finish the sauce. Bring the stock to the boil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add cream and whisk to combine, then reduce heat to low and whisk in butter to thicken the sauce. Add shallot and parsley and season to taste with salt, pepper, a little fish sauce and a squeeze of lemon to freshen it up. Transfer to a warm serving jug.

5. Before serving, brush the mackerel with a little more oil and season with a touch of salt. Cut the mackerel into chops, divide between plates and serve with Diane sauce and your choice of accompaniments.

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NOTE Brown fish stock is made by spreading 1kg Spanish mackerel bones over a baking tray lined with baking paper oil lightly with the grapeseed oil and roast at 190°C until completely coloured and dried, about 30 minutes. Add to a pot, cover with water and simmer until stock is wellflavoured (30 minutes).

Dry-aged Spanish mackerel Diane

Scotch eggs MAKES 8

“There are disputes over the origin of the Scotch egg, with claims ranging from India to Yorkshire, even the grand department store Fortnum & Mason in London,” says Niland. “In 2019 I was lucky enough to cook at a Fortnum & Mason event, and naturally one of the canapés was a Scotch egg. This recipe can be adapted to suit all size eggs; from a very large duck egg down to a quail egg, and can also be seasoned with different herbs and spices than the ones listed below. However, in my opinion they must be served with mustard or, at the very least, a quality mayonnaise.”

10 free-range eggs 150g (1 cup) plain flour 2½ tbsp milk 120g (2 cups) white panko breadcrumbs Canola oil, for deep-frying FILLING

2 tbsp ghee

10 French shallots, finely diced 250g ocean trout belly, cut into large chunks 250g skinless, boneless white fish fillet (ling, cod, groper or snapper), cut into 1cm dice

½ tsp each of freshly ground cumin, coriander and fennel seeds

2 tbsp finely chopped coriander

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tsp smoked paprika

½ tsp cayenne pepper

1 tsp lemon thyme leaves 2½ tbsp Dijon mustard Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

¼ cup finely chopped chives

1. To make the filling, heat ghee in a small saucepan over medium heat to a light haze. Add shallot and sweat for 6–7 minutes, until softened. Remove from the heat and chill in the fridge.

2. Working in small batches, blend ocean trout belly in a food processor to a smooth mousse, adding a splash of chilled water to help everything emulsify if the mixture seems too oily. Add the remaining ingredients, including the chilled shallot and 1½ tsp salt, and blend until well combined. Set aside.

3. Fill a bowl with iced water. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil.

Carefully lower eight eggs into boiling water and cook for exactly 6 minutes, then transfer to iced water and leave to cool for 10–15 minutes. Once the eggs are cool enough to handle, carefully peel off shells. Place each portion of filling between two sheets of plastic wrap and flatten into a circle large enough to enclose the egg, then remove the plastic.

4. With clean hands, divide the filling mixture into eight even portions and roll into balls. Place an egg in the centre of each filling circle, then wrap the filling around the egg, gently pressing together to seal but being careful not to press too hard. Place in the fridge for at least 20 minutes.

5. Preheat the oven to 180°C and heat oil for deep-frying in a deep-fryer or large saucepan over a medium–high heat until it reaches 190°C. Place flour in one bowl and season with salt and pepper, then beat the remaining eggs in another and stir in the milk. Tip the breadcrumbs into a third bowl.

6. Roll each egg in the seasoned flour, gently tapping off any excess, then dip it in the beaten egg mixture. Finally, roll it in the breadcrumbs to evenly coat.

7. Working in batches of two, add Scotch eggs to the oil (be careful as hot oil may spit) and fry for 2 minutes until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a wire rack over a baking tray. When all the eggs have been fried, place tray in the oven for 3–4 minutes, then serve immediately while the yolks are still runny.

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Spanish mackerel chops cooked in vadouvan SERVES 2

“This French colonial-influenced Indian curry blend has a complex yet mild flavour that appeals to a very broad audience,” says Niland.

Vadouvan is made from a blend of onions, garlic, cumin seeds, mustard seeds and fenugreek. Although true vadouvan is dried and ground into a powdered spice, for this recipe I make a puree that can be simply added to a sauce to eliminate the drying stage.”

500g French shallots, peeled 250g butter 30 curry leaves

1 tsp fenugreek seeds, finely ground 60g ghee 1kg brown onions, thinly sliced

12 garlic cloves, finely grated

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground green cardamom

1 tsp brown mustard seeds 34

⁄ tsp ground turmeric

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

½ tsp chilli flakes

¼ tsp ground cloves

2 300g Spanish mackerel chops 250ml (1 cup) brown fish stock (see note p52) or water Juice of ½ lemon, or to taste

1. Preheat oven to 200°C. Place shallots in the centre of a square of foil, add 100g butter, a sprinkle of salt flakes and 10 curry leaves. Secure foil around shallots and place on a wire rack set on a baking tray. Roast for 35 minutes or until the shallots are very tender and have begun to take on colour. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes.

2. Heat the ghee in a large deep saucepan over a medium heat, then add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, for 25–30 minutes, until a deep golden colour but not burnt. Add roasted shallots and juices from the foil parcel, along with the ground fenugreek seeds, ground spices and remaining curry leaves, and season well. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and chill in the fridge until needed. Puree in a blender before using.

3. Preheat oven to 200°C. In a large cast-iron frying pan, melt the remaining butter over a medium heat until just beginning to foam without colour, add the Spanish mackerel chops and, without colouring the flesh, coat the fish in the butter. Add 2 heaped tablespoons of vadouvan puree (see note).

Turn the fish over, pour in the fish stock and bring to the boil. Cover with a square of foil, then transfer to the oven and roast for 4 minutes. Remove the foil and turn the fish over, then replace the foil and roast for a further 4 minutes. The fish is ready when the internal temperature at its thickest point registers 44°C on a probe thermometer.

5. Remove from the oven and turn the fish over so presentation side is on top. Place on a warm plate. Return the pan to a medium heat and reduce the cooking juices until very thick and shiny. Season with lemon juice and a little salt if needed. Spoon vadouvan sauce over the Spanish mackerel chop to glaze and serve immediately.

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NOTE Any remaining vadouvan puree can be refrigerated for up to 1 week and used in another dish.

From the book Septime, La Cave, Clamato, D’une îl, these recipes will instantly transport you to a table in an idyllic farmhouse in France.

LE JARDIN TRANQUILLE

RECIPES

by

BERTRAND GRÉBAUT PHOTOGRAPHY

and

by

T H É O P H I L E P O U R R I AT

with

ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER

BENOIT COHEN

Almond tart with berries and garden flowers Recipe p63

Cruidités with red rice miso mayonnaise

Cruidités with red rice miso mayonnaise

White onion tarte Tatin with mustard seeds

SERVES 6

SERVES 6

Served as an appetizer to welcome guests. At Septime, they also make their own ferments and pickles, such as fermented white asparagus and jostaberries, lacto-fermented kumquats, mushroom escabeche, pickled Battaglione cucumber spears, lacto-fermented radishes, and salted and vinegared pear quarters and spruce buds. Use a mixture of fresh and pickled vegetables here.

D’une île. All year round.

12 small white onions, unpeeled 50g unsalted butter

2 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves 15g unrefined cane sugar (rapadura sugar) 100g wholegrain mustard Fleur de sel or sea salt flakes, to serve Double cream, to serve Peppery baby salad leaves, to serve SHORTCRUST PASTRY

1 egg yolk

1 tbsp milk 200g strong white bread flour

1 tsp unrefined cane sugar (rapadura sugar) 150g cold unsalted butter, cubed

Crudités, to serve, mini cucumbers, baby carrots and turnips, yellow zucchini, celery and mixed fresh herbs, such as coriander, mint, basil, parsley, thyme flowers, to serve

MISO MAYONNAISE 30g black fermented garlic (see note) 30g red rice miso, or other red miso paste

1 egg yolk 30ml white wine vinegar 200ml grapeseed oil

1. For shortcrust pastry, in a bowl, combine the egg yolk and milk.

In another bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and butter and ½ tsp salt. Add egg yolk mixture to dry ingredients. Bring together and knead the dough without working it too much. Shape into a ball, cover and set aside for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

1. For the red rice miso mayonnaise, in a bowl, blend together the black garlic and the miso, then add the egg yolk and vinegar. Gradually whisk in the grapeseed oil, starting one drop of oil at a time, then increasing to a thin stream while continuoulsy whisking, until emulsified into a mayonnaise, and season to taste.

2. Arrange the raw vegetables on plates, re-cutting some vegetables if necessary. Add the fresh herbs.

Place a quenelle of miso mayonnaise in the centre.

2. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Wrap each onion in a piece of foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake the onions for about 1 hour, until they are caramelised. Cool, then peel them and cut in half.

3. Heat the butter with the thyme and bay leaf in a wide sauté pan over medium heat until foaming. Add the halved onions, cut-side down and cook until golden brown.

NOTE Black fermented garlic, also known as black garlic is available from select delicatessens and some supermarkets.

4. Sprinkle the base of a 24cm ovenproof frying pan evenly with sugar. Arrange the roasted onions on the sugar, packing them in tightly. Spread with the mustard.

5. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough on a floured work surface to 2.5mm thick. Cut out a circle from the dough that is slightly larger than the bottom of the frying pan and then cover the onions with the pastry. Pierce in places to let steam escape while cooking. Cook for 5 minutes on the stove over low heat, then bake in the oven for 25 minutes, until the pastry is golden. Remove the tart from the oven and immediately turn it out onto a wire rack.

6. Just before serving, sprinkle with fleur de sel and serve with the cream and peppery baby salad leaves.

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Free-range chicken with hay cooked in a dough-sealed pot Recipe p62

60

White onion tarte Tatin with mustard seeds Recipe p59

Free-range chicken with hay cooked in a dough-sealed pot SERVES 6

The chicken is stuffed, placed in a cast-iron casserole dish, then covered with sweet vernal grass. The lid of the dish is sealed with dough so that the bird steams within it. The French term for this method of cooking is en cocotte lutée, which refers to the mixture used to seal the pot (‘lute’ in English, meaning liquid clay or cement). This technique can also be done without the hay, using other aromatics.

1 free-range chicken (about 2.4kg) 100g meadow hay (see note) 550g plain flour

3 tbsp grapeseed oil 50g unsalted butter, softened

1 egg, beaten Fleur de sel, or sea salt flakes, to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Toast the hay in the oven for 5 minutes.

Cool, then stuff the chicken with half the hay, reserving the rest for the pot. Refrigerate the stuffed chicken overnight.

2. Sift 500g of the flour into a bowl, make a well in the centre and gradually incorporate 50ml water. Work the dough until it forms a smooth ball. Cover the dough and refrigerate overnight.

3. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 30 minutes before starting to cook to bring it to room temperature.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the grapeseed oil in a casserole dish over medium heat. Brown the chicken, thigh-side down, wedging it against the side of the dish or using tongs to hold it in place. Cook for 10 minutes on each side, then turn onto its back and cook for another 5 minutes. This precooking accelerates the cooking of the thighs to ensure that the breast and thighs cook evenly once the chicken is in the oven.

5. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Use the remaining 50g flour to dust the work surface, then shape the dough into a long rope, about 4cm in diameter and long enough to encircle the casserole lid. For a more decorative result, you can also divide the dough into three lengths and plait (braid) it.

6. Line the bottom of the casserole dish with half of the remaining hay.

Place the chicken into the dish, brush the breasts with the softened butter and cover with the remaining hay. Put the lid on the dish, then use the rolled dough to seal the join of the lid and dish all the way round. The dough should stick without the need to add water or egg. Using a sharp knife, score the dough along its length. Prepare a glaze by mixing the beaten egg with 1 tablespoon water. Using a pastry brush, apply the glaze to the dough, then bake for 35 minutes.

7. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and let it rest for 35 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, cut through the dough all the way round the casserole dish, remove the lid and then remove and carve the chicken.

Once you have removed the breasts, heat the remaining tablespoon of grapeseed oil in a frying pan or skillet over a very high heat. Place the chicken breasts (and legs if using) into the pan skin -side down and brown for 3 minutes. Sprinkle the breasts with fleur de sel and serve immediately.

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NOTE “We serve this chicken dish all year round at D’une île,” says Bertrand Grébaut.

In winter, it may be accompanied by a buttery Savagnin sauce; in summer, with a reduced tangy jus; and always, with simply cooked seasonal vegetables. If fresh hay isn’t available to you, you can buy dry organic hay at pet supply shop – choose a straw hay, not a green hay for the best flavour.

Almond tart with berries and garden flowers SERVES 6

The desserts we enjoy are often comforting, sometimes surprising, but always coherent. They’re simple but not simplistic, with a subtle touch. Depending on which address they will be served at, our approach varies between the rustic character of this almond tart with red fruits and flowers from the D’une île garden, presented whole and sliced in front of our guests in the dining room; the freshness of mint ice cream with satsuma marmalade and za’atar at Septime; and the boldness of the Baba with a kick of Mezcal found at Clamato and Tapisserie. The fruit in the tart is brushed with acacia flower syrup at D’une île., you can use a simple sugar syrup to glaze the fruits.

550g mixed red berries, such as strawberries, halved and raspberries, and blackcurrants or redcurrants (when in season) Edible flowers such as garden violets, to serve

SWEET PASTRY DOUGH 250g strong white bread flour 100g unrefined caster sugar

1 pinch fine salt 150g unsalted butter

1 egg

ALMOND CREAM 70g unsalted butter, softened 60g icing sugar 80g ground almonds (almond meal)

1 tsp strong white bread flour

1 egg 100ml pouring cream

1. For sweet pastry dough, combine the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Make a well in the centre, add the egg, and gently mix it in. Knead the dough briefly until it is smooth, but don’t overwork it. Wrap in wrap and set aside in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

2. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to 2mm thick and use it to line a 24-cm diameter tart tin or tart ring.

3. For the almond cream, in a bowl, using a silicone spatula, combine the ingredients in the following order: softened butter, icing sugar, ground almonds (almond meal), flour and egg. Pour in the cream and whisk until the mixture is smooth. Transfer to a piping bag and pipe an 8-mm thick layer into the pastry case (shell).

4. Preheat the oven to 170°C. Bake the tart in the oven for 25 minutes or until set. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.

5. Carefully roll the berries and currants in sugar syrup.

Decorate the tart with these glazed fruits and finish with the garden violets.

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SA F E

UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites currently sits at over one thousand, with many more classified as tentative. Here we bring you just eight, both natural and man-made, that exemplify the need for protected regions that provide sanctuary for the environment and the inhabitants that call them home.

H AV E N S

THE AREA DE CONSERVACIÓN GUANACASTE, Costa Rica This dramatic landscape contains important natural habitats for the conservation of biological diversity, including the best dry forest habitats from Central America to northern Mexico, and key habitats for endangered or rare plant and animal species. Ever-expanding as surrounding areas are added to the area of conservation, the region contains an estimated two-thirds of the endangered animals of Costa Rica.

IN FOCUS

KATHMANDU VALLEY, Nepal Located in the foothills of the Himalayas, the cultural heritage of Kathmandu Valley is illustrated by seven groups of monuments and buildings which display the full range of historic and artistic achievements for which the region is world famous. The unique urban settlements that are found throughout the valley are home to intricately ornamented architecture, such as the Pashupatinath Temple, pictured here, displaying what is considered some of the most highly developed craftsmanship in the world.

65

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, USA Established in 1872, the expansive natural forest of Yellowstone National Park reaches from Wyoming and extends into both Montana and Idaho. In additon to providing a safe-haven for the array of wildlife that call it home - such as grizzly bears, wolves and bison - the park contains no less than half of the world’s known geothermal features. The Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the United States, and the third largest in the world.

OKAVANGO DELTA, Botswana Found in north-west Botswana, Okavango Delta comprises permanent marshlands and seasonally flooded plains. It is one of the very few major interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea or ocean, with a wetland system that is almost intact. One of the unique characteristics of the site is that the annual flooding from the River Okavango occurs during the dry season, with the result that the native plants and animals have synchronised their biological cycles with these seasonal rains and floods. It is an exceptional example of the interaction between climatic, hydrological and biological processes. The Okavango Delta is home to some of the world’s most endangered species of large mammal, such as the cheetah, white rhinoceros, black rhinoceros and lion.

YAZD, Iran Yazd is a city totally surrounded by desert, located in the middle of the Iranian plateau, close to the Spice and Silk Roads. It bears living testimony to the use of limited resources for survival in arid desert and due to the difficulties of access, the earthen architecture of the region has escaped the modernisation that has destroyed many other traditional earthen towns. Yazd is the driest major city in Iran and water is supplied to the city through a qanat system developed to draw underground water.

JAIPUR CITY, Rajasthan, India The walled city of Jaipur, in India’s north-western state of Rajasthan was founded in 1727. Unlike other cities located in the hilly terrain, Jaipur was established on the plain and built according to a grid plan, the model that prevails in the West. The streets feature continuous colonnaded businesses that intersect in the centre, creating large public squares called chaupars.

Markets, shops, residences and temples built along the main streets have uniform facades. The city’s urban planning shows an exchange of ideas from ancient Hindu and early modern Mughal as well as Western cultures. Designed to be a commercial capital, the city has maintained its local commercial, artisanal and cooperative traditions to this day.

MEDINA OF MARRAKESH, Morocco Founded in 1070–72 by the Almoravids, Marrakesh remained a political, economic and cultural centre for a lengthy period of time. Its influence was felt throughout the western Muslim world, from North Africa to Andalusia. It has several impressive monuments dating from that period, such as the Koutoubiya Mosque, the Kasbah and the gardens. To this day the fortified city is packed with vendors and their stalls, selling crafts and food to locals and tourists alike.

CASA MILA AS AN EXAMPLE OF THE ARCHITECTURAL WORKS OF ANTONI GAUDÍ, Barcelona, Spain Seven properties built by the architect Antoni Gaudí in or near Barcelona testify to the artist’s exceptional creative contribution to the development of architecture and building technology in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These monuments represent an eclectic, as well as a very personal, style which was given free reign in the design of gardens, sculpture and all decorative arts, as well as architecture.

DESIGN

Modern maximalism

Unapologetically eclectic, this bespoke hotel interior juxtaposes a delightful mix of texture, pattern, shape and locally sourced hardwoods.

WORDS

by

L I Z E LT O N

AUSTIN PROPER HOTEL, Austin, Texas, USA When Kelly Wearstler, the queen of maximalist, unconventional design put her creative vision to this boutique hotel interior, she pulled out all the stops. Here, an eclectic mix of pottery from local artisans adorn the underside of the bold, geometric timber staircase. The overall effect is one of rich relaxation that invites you in like a warm embrace. properhotel.com

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MEMOIR

Ho Chi Minh City

From the book World Travel, an irreverent guide.

WORDS

The shock of the new in Ho Chi Minh City.

by

ANTHONY BOURDAIN

From the very first minute that I came to this country, I knew my life had changed. My old life was suddenly never gonna be good enough. I needed a new one, where I could keep coming back here. The streets, the stop, start, stop of negotiating the never-ending traffic.

The seemingly impenetrable patterns. The mental prepared-ness necessary for simply crossing the street.

A sensory overload, a caffeine-like rush of heightened perception, one that always leads to good things.

When I came here first [in 2000], you could still see the Saigon of Graham Greene’s novel The Quiet American. It was still a city of bicycles, motorbikes, and cyclos. There was the smell of burning joss from the pagodas, charcoal from storefront eateries, diesel fuel, jasmine. Women in their graceful áo dàis and peaked hats would pedal past. And the landmarks, like the Majestic Hotel, the Opera House, the Caravelle, from whose rooftop you could once watch the war.

Today, what was once a dream of one day owning 75

and

L AURIE WOOLEVER

a Honda seems to have come true for almost everybody. Bicycles have been replaced by scooters and motorcycles. Traditional peaked hats, by helmets.

The old is still here, but around and in between the old French colonial architecture, everywhere there’s modern construction. A building boom. The shock of the new.

Nguyen Thi Thanh is known as ‘the Lunch Lady.’ She’s something of a maverick, because she does a different soup every day, which she makes from scratch, in a sort of a cyclic menu throughout the week. One such offering is bún bò Hue: “Hue-style beef, and I think there’s pork blood involved. Stock of pork bones, beef bones, then sliced beef, sliced pork, pork leg, pig feet.

Coagulated pig’s blood, onion, ginger, rice noodles. A host of special spices, nasty bits, and jealously guarded trade secrets. The magic of a soup among soups.

Quan an Lunch Lady: Phuong Da Kao (just off Hoang Sa), District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (no phone, no website).

THE LIST

Bianca

City of chill

SK Steak and Oyster

A photographer shares her mix of high end, low-fi and nature spots for the perfect weekend in Brisbane.

WORDS

by

KARA ROSENLUND

EAT

SK STEAK AND OYSTER When I’m craving something top shelf, this is where I book a table.

It’s perfect for a long Friday lunch.

The wait staff go above and beyond, while the atmosphere is charging.

Don’t go past the mashed potato with Moreton Bay bugs.

G.12 The Calile Hotel, 48 James St, Fortitude Valley @sk.steakandoyster BIANCA Really great, simple Italian with favourite dishes like cotoletta di pollo and paccheri al pomodoro.

You will find yourself craving Bianca’s dishes long after you have left the restaurant.

Shop AM5 Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley @bianca.restaurant BOTANICA REAL FOOD Botanica is a one stop tiny takeaway salad shop with great salads - pick up a family size salad and then picnic in New Farm Park.

Shop 3, 29 Doggett St, Teneriffe @botanicarealfood SAME SAME One of the hardest places in Brisbane to get into, with a fresh take on Thai street food. Everything on is painstakingly delicious and the vibe is hot and snappy.

Shop AM3 Ada Lane, 46 James Street Fortitude Valley @same.same.restaurant

Bianca

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Lobby Bar

QAGOMA

BREWBAKERS COFFEE At 5.30am Brewbakers opens its roller door to its devoted Northside fans who line up in the carpark. It’s easily the best bakery in Brisbane, with no need for bells or whistles. I find myself here at least once a week at sunrise filling my basket with fresh bread, pizza bases and mini donuts.

2/337 Sandgate Rd, Albion @brewbakers_brisbane

Mount Coo-Tha Botanical Garden

Lobby Bar

Botanica Real Food

ALSO…

DRINK

JAN POWERS FARMERS MARKET The perfect place to pick up your weekly groceries under a canopy of Moreton Bay fig trees. Produce is straight from the farmers and the market has a great atmosphere.

The Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm @janpowersfarmersmarket

THE LOBBY BAR, CALILIE HOTEL This is a favourite haunt for meetings or a quick catch up with friends, as the location can’t be beaten. It’s straight in the heart of the beautiful people of James street. Grab a table out front, sit back and watch the footpath abuzz with activity.

48 James St, Fortitude Valley @lobbybarbrisbane

Same Same

BOTANICK GARDEN STORE Down an industrial street at Breakfast Creek, you will think you have discovered a secret enchanted garden. Andrea of Botanick sells and grows such an exotic selection of plants, bric-a-brac and is also a walking oracle for knowledge for anything green, even frogs.

20 Pedder St, Albion PADDINGTON ANTIQUE STORE This antique centre has over 100 stalls with second-hand objects from all over the world. I often prop source for unique pieces here.

167 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington @empire.revival MOUNT COO-THA BOTANICAL GARDEN The subtropical gardens at Mount Coot-Tha are a haven in the middle of the city. Since the 1970s the gardens have been an escape for 73

those seeking a connection to the natural world. It’s so calming walking slowly around. The tropical dome is not to be missed.

Mount Coot-tha THE QUEENSLAND ART GALLERY AND GALLERY OF MODERN ART On the fringe of the Brisbane River, the gallery has one of the largest Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander collections in the country. I love to escape here on my own and absorb all the beauty. Plus the brutalist architecture is so inspiring.

Stanley Pl, South Brisbane @qagoma BAREFOOT BOWLS For a fun afternoon along the river I always find myself heading here and kicking off my shoes.

Nothing beats a nostalgic game of bowls with a couple of cold beers and loved ones.

969 Brunswick St, New Farm @newfarmbowls WALK THE SHORNCLIFFE PIER 20 minutes from the city is the perfect seaside escape. The Pier was built in 1872 and stretches out to Brisbane’s Moreton Bay. I love seeing the sand dunes of the Bay Islands on the horizon.

Park Parade, Shorncliffe

LAST DRINKS

In the mix

The new way to order up at the bar.

WORDS

1

by

M AT T Y H I R S C H

6

4

2

5

7

3 No two ways about it, the home bar has never looked better than it does right now. And that is very fortunate, indeed, considering it is the only one currently open for millions of Australians.

While pre-batched cocktails have been gathering momentum over the last few years, venues across the country have upped the ante substantially in 2021, taking quality and creativity to all-time highs, reviving oft-forgotten classics, reinvigorating timeless favourites or bringing something entirely new to the party. Here are seven to get you started.

(That’s one for each day of the week.)

Bottoms up.

1

COCONUT & WATTLESEED MANHATTAN, Earl’s Juke Joint, Sydney Big, sweet flavours do the heavy lifting in this winning riff on a Black Manhattan featuring Pedro Ximénez, but they’re balanced out by the nutty notes of wattleseed and the bite of orange bitters. $24 for 200ml, builttospill.wine

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5

3

6

4

7

SAINT PETER MARTINI, Re, Sydney Leave it to creative mastermind Matt Whiley to liven up a vodka and gin Martini with Cavendish banana, Yarra Valley trout roe and unpasteurised sake.

It may sound crazy, but it really works. $18 for 100ml, wearere.com.au

ZENECA ZOMBIE, PS40, Sydney “Though this is not a typical Tiki punch, it’s got the bones of one,” says PS40 owner Michael Chiem. He’s added whisky, absinthe, rhubarb and “an absurd” amount of spices. Buckle up. $25 for 250ml, ps40bar.com PALOMITA, The Everleigh Bottling Co, Melbourne The Everleigh – an early adopter of the pre-batched cocktail – has struck gold yet again with a ripping take on the tart Paloma, spiked with sparkling wine.

A stroke of genius, perfect for spring. $10 for 170ml, everleighbottling.com 76

JASMINE NEGRONI, Maybe Sammy, Sydney It pays not to mess with a good thing, which is why the team at Maybe Sammy use only a dash of house-made white jasmine tea dilution to brighten the bitter thrill of a Negroni. $18 for 100ml, maybesammycocktails.com ARMY & NAVY, Taylor & Smith x Dier Makr, Hobart This collab between one of Tassie’s most beloved small-batch distillers and one of the state’s finest restaurants lets the strength and simplicity of the ingredients – gin, citrus, almonds – shine. $19.50 for 100ml, taylorandsmith.com.au

COSMOPOLI-TIN, Continental Deli, Sydney Fino sherry infused wth dried cranberries takes the place of lime juice in Continental Deli’s Cosmo. It’s a rich, boozy twist that deftly counters the sweetness brought on by orange liqueur. $14 for 90ml, pnvmerchants.com