05 RENEWAL
CONTRIBUTORS
Shanteh Wale
Nadia Bailey
Matty Hirsch
EXTRACTS In print: Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook.
Fire fighters, p18 Shanteh Wale is the head sommelier at Sydney’s AwardWinning Quay restaurant. She is a rising star in the ranks of sommeliers in Australia having been three times nominated for the Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year award. She also judges and writes for various drink publications. In this edition, she looks into wineries recovering from bushfire devastation, stating, “I believe working as a sommelier comes with the responsibility of representing and supporting the wine industry, in both its triumphs and sorrows.”
Acts of repair p28 Nadia Bailey is a Melbourne-based writer and editor, whose work has appeared in publications like Australian Gourmet Traveller and Good Food. In this issue, she delves into the story behind the Indigenous-run social enterprise, Black Duck Foods, founded by Bruce Pascoe which is working to revitalise Australia's native food systems. “The abundance of native foods available to us in Australia is extraordinary. That they’re being renewed and embraced is something worth celebrating.”
In the mix, p76 Matty Hirsch is a Manhattan-born, Sydney-based food and drinks writer, critic and editor. He began his career as a maître d’ at New York’s legendary Gotham Bar and Grill, before moving to Australia and managing pubs and wine bars for the better part of a decade. He is currently chief bar reviewer for the WA Good Food Guide, and Eatable’s newly appointed drinks editor. In this issue, he rounds up some bar batch cocktails perfect for drinking right now. “The variety of pre-batched cocktails out there is at an alltime high, and the calibre – from conception through to execution – is staggeringly impressive.”
Editorial director Lisa Featherby Creative director Liz Elton Drinks editor Matty Hirsch CONTRIBUTORS Nadia Bailey, Jacqui Challinor, Penny Lawson, Tim Malfroy, Kara Rosenlund, Shanteh Wale CREDITS Cover: Photography Alicia Taylor. Styling Lisa Featherby. Inside front and back covers: Photography Sven King, Unsplash. Subscribe: Photography Alicia Taylor. Welcome: Photography courtesy Bianca, Alicia Taylor and Adam Gibson. Contents: Photography Alicia Taylor. Postcard from: Photography Bhupesh Pal, Unsplash. Spotlight: Photography courtesy Schloss Schauenstein. In profile: Photography Adam Gibson. Cheese: Photography Shutterstock. Wine: Photography Klara Kulikova, Unsplash. The classics: Photography Lisa Featherby. Acts of Repair: Photography Nick Cubbins (portrait), Shutterstock and courtesy Blue Duck Foods. Food opener: Photography Alicia Taylor. A Spring Menu: Photography Alicia Taylor. Glasses by Riedel. Modern Take: Photography Rob Palmer. Le Jardin Tranquille: Photography Alexandre Guirkinger. In Focus: Photography Fabio Fistarol, Fares Nimri, Chris Leipelt, Joaquin Rivero, Hasan Almasi, Ibrahim Rifath, Jonathan Ford and Ashwin Vaswan, Unsplash. The List: Photography Kara Rosenlund, Instagram, courtesy Bianca and Same Same. Memoir: Photography Markus Winkler, Unsplash. Last drinks: Photography Lisa Featherby. ISSN 2653-0864
The publication and its contents are protected by copyright. All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written authority. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited material. Author recipes are edited, but untested by Eatable. Published by Elton & Featherby (ABN 20370450968). Eatable magazine by Eatable Australia is printed by Pulse Print Solutions in Melbourne, Australia. For custom publishing inquiries please contact hello@eatable.net.au.
Modern Take: Extracted with minor style changes from Take One Fish by Josh Niland, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $55, available in stores nationally. Photography ©Rob Palmer.
Le Jardin Tranquille: Extracted with minor style changes from Septime, La Cave, Clamato, D’une île by Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat, with Benoit Cohen, published by Phaidon. On sale 30 September 2021, RRP $79.95. phaidon.com. Memoir: Extracted with permission from World Travel by Anthony Bourdain with Laurie Woolever, published by Bloomsbury. On sale now, RRP $29.99.
VOLUME
08 POSTCARD FROM 10 IN PRINT Uncomplicated menus. 11 SOCIAL NETWORK Ikebana artist, Toru Watarai. 12 IN SEASON Blood oange. 14 IN PROFILE Talking to Tim Hardy, of Marion Bay’s Van Bone restaurant. 16 CHEESE TALK Penny Lawson on fresh spring cheeses. 18 WINE Shanteh Wale on the devastation of the bushfires and recovery of the wine industry. 20 SPOTLIGHT Schloss Schauenstein, one of the world’s most sustainable restaurants. 23 DECANTED A field blend to drink this spring. 24 THE CLASSICS Pastizzi, the Maltese street-snack. 26 OBSCURITIES Wild honeycomb by Tim Malfroy. 28 ACT OF RELIEF Nadia Bailey shares the story behind Bruce Pascoe’s Indigenous-led Black Duck Foods.
34 THE SPRING TABLE A seasonal affair. 44 MODERN TAKE Josh Niland’s latest book, Take One Fish is a seafood masterpiece. 56 LE JARDIN TRANQUILLE The recipes behind wine bar Septime and their farmhouse, D’une île.
64 IN FOCUS UNESCO world heritage sights to explore. 72 THE LIST Photographer Kara Rosenlund shares the ultimate low-fi weekend in Brisbane. 74 DESIGN Austin Proper Hotel. 75 MEMOIR Ho Chi Minh City through the words of Anthony Bourdain. 76 LAST DRINKS Pre-batch cocktails for home drinking, created by some of our favourite bars.
IN PRINT
“A sense of renewal comes upon me each time I work with incredibly fresh and sweetly scented ingredients for a salad. I would rather make salads than almost any other dish.” Alice Waters on uncomplicated menus from The Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook, 1984.
10
THE SOCIAL NETWORK
@watara_ikebana
Watarai Toru
43.4k followers
Balancing act
The arrangements of Japanese Ikebana artist Toru Watarai have a minimal, sculptural elegance that evoke the fluidity of nature and, it would seem, a defiance of gravity.
11
THE SPRING TABLE Embrace the warmer breeze in the air, let’s eat.
Rhubarb and raspberry pavlovas with crème fraîche Recipe p43
RECIPES
by
L I S A F E AT H E R B Y
and
PHOTOGRAPHY
by
A L I C I A TAY L O R
MODERN TAKE
RECIPES
by
JOSH NILAND
and
PHOTOGRAPHY
Scotch eggs Recipe p54
by
R O B PA L M E R
Master of nose-totail fish butchery, Josh Niland’s latest book, Take One Fish, shows us there’s many clever ways to serve up sustainable seafood.
Spanish mackerel chops cooked in vadouvan Recipe p55
From the book Septime, La Cave, Clamato, D’une îl, these recipes will instantly transport you to a table in an idyllic farmhouse in France.
LE JARDIN TRANQUILLE
RECIPES
by
BERTRAND GRÉBAUT PHOTOGRAPHY
and
by
T H É O P H I L E P O U R R I AT
with
ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER
BENOIT COHEN
Almond tart with berries and garden flowers Recipe p63
SA F E
UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites currently sits at over one thousand, with many more classified as tentative. Here we bring you just eight, both natural and man-made, that exemplify the need for protected regions that provide sanctuary for the environment and the inhabitants that call them home.
H AV E N S
THE AREA DE CONSERVACIÓN GUANACASTE, Costa Rica This dramatic landscape contains important natural habitats for the conservation of biological diversity, including the best dry forest habitats from Central America to northern Mexico, and key habitats for endangered or rare plant and animal species. Ever-expanding as surrounding areas are added to the area of conservation, the region contains an estimated two-thirds of the endangered animals of Costa Rica.
IN FOCUS
KATHMANDU VALLEY, Nepal Located in the foothills of the Himalayas, the cultural heritage of Kathmandu Valley is illustrated by seven groups of monuments and buildings which display the full range of historic and artistic achievements for which the region is world famous. The unique urban settlements that are found throughout the valley are home to intricately ornamented architecture, such as the Pashupatinath Temple, pictured here, displaying what is considered some of the most highly developed craftsmanship in the world. 65