Eatable Volume 01: The French Edition

VOLUME 01 / THE FRENCH EDITION

CRÈME RENVERSÉE / p 20

eatable.net.au / shop

WELCOME

Tarte au citron meringuée, p22

Welcome to our first edition: the French edition. When we started Eatable nine months ago, our plan was to curate food and drink ideas that you, our readers, could access online. We’ve been sharing many of our favourite cooking subjects with you each week through our weekly newsletters, but we felt something was missing. We wanted to curate ideas in larger scale and use our experience in magazines to give you a more beautiful platform for food. This is how the idea of Eatable editions came about. We’ll be publishing a new edition every six weeks with different themes, creating recipes from our own kitchen studio, plus talking to restaurant and wine industry voices on subjects we love. The French edition seemed a natural fit for our first edition, as we wanted to be a bit decadent and indulge our wanderlust for travelling, and eating all things French. In this issue, we visit Daniel Pepperell, Michael Clift and Andy Tyson’s new French-inspired bistro in Sydney, Bistrot 916, as well as explore beautiful French desserts. We talk to Bentley co-owner and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt about affordable Burgundy, take a look at the Instagram feed of one of the best pâtissiers in the world, Cedric Grolet, and much more.

We hope you enjoy this journey to France with us.

Lisa & Liz eatable.net.au | @eatablegram

05

CONTRIBUTORS

Jacques Reymond Nick Hildebrandt

Andy Tyson, Daniel Pepperell, & Michael Clift

Memoir, p43 Affordable Burgundy, p14 Nick Hildebrandt is one of Australia’s most influential sommeliers and restaurateurs. He co-owns and operates Sydney’s Bentley Restaurant and Bar, Monopole, Yellow and Cirrus. In this edition, Nick shares his inside knowledge for sourcing affordable wines of Burgundy. “A lot of winelovers gravitate towards Burgundy, and I am no different. I love both the white and the reds. There is the old saying, you get what you pay for, however there is still great value to be found,” says Hildebrandt.

French Revolution, p26 Chef Daniel Pepperell and sommelier Andy Tyson, both previously of Sydney establishment Hubert, have teamed up with ex-Rockpool chef Michael Clift to open a wildly popular French bistro.

On the week of their opening, they shared a few recipes with us, from Bistrot 916. “We wanted it to be something a bit fun and relaxed,” says Pepperell. “The site really chose the French bistro for us.”

Jacques Reymond was born in Cuiseaux, on the edge of the Jura mountains, and grew up in France. He earned Michelin stars while at his family establishment, L’Hôtel du Nord, in Burgundy, before moving to Australia, where he spent 30 years as Melbourne hospitality royalty, with his multiaward winning restaurant Jacques Reymond. Now as a consultant and guest chef, he shares with us one of the most memorable meals he has ever had in France. “The restaurant was in an old farmhouse with old-beamed ceilings, a wood fire burning and red-and-white checked tablecloths - it’s so hard to find something so traditional,” says Reymond.

Content director Lisa Featherby Creative director Liz Elton CONTRIBUTORS Daniel Pepperell, Michael Clift, Andy Tyson, Jacques Reymond, Nick Hildebrandt, Elodie Rambaud, Ben Greeno.

PHOTO CREDITS Front cover: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. Inside front cover: Francisco Mamani, Unsplash. Welcome: Tart photography Lisa Featherby.

Paris photography Charles Loyer and Vivian Chow, Unsplash. Contents: Lisa Featherby. Postcards from: Matthieu Pannier, Unsplash. The social network: Cédric Grolet. In profile: Extracted with permission from the book Today’s Special, published by Phaidon. Photography James Henry and Luke Burgess. Wine: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. Sommeliers Burgundy Grand Cru and Performance Pinot Noir from Riedel. Food Opener: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. Crème de la: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. French Revolution: Photography Lisa Featherby and styling Liz Elton. An American in Paris: Extracted with permission from Dinner in French: My Recipes by Way of France by Melissa Clark, published by Ten Speed Press. Food photography Laura Edwards and Paris photography John Towner, Unsplash. The classics: Photography and styling Lisa Featherby. The List: Photography from Instagram. Memoir: Photography Tim Arnold, Unsplash. Last drinks: Extracted with permission from Spirited: Cocktails from Around the World by Adrienne Stillman, published by Phaidon. Inside back cover: Oliver Cole, Unsplash.

The publication and its contents are protected by copyright. All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written authority. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited material. Author recipes are edited, but untested by Eatable. Published by Elton & Featherby (ABN 20370450968). Eatable magazine is printed by Pulse Print Solutions. For custom publishing inquiries please contact hello@eatable.net.au.

CONTENTS

VOLUME 01 THE FRENCH EDITION

08 POSTCARD FROM

10 IN PRINT

11 THE SOCIAL NETWORK Cédric Grolet

12 IN PROFILE

Skye Gyngell on James Henry of Le Doyenne, from the book Today’s Special.

14 WINE Nick Hildebrandt debunks the idea that if it’s from Burgundy, it must be expensive.

18 CRÈME DE LA An ode to classic French desserts.

26 FRENCH REVOLUTION Newly-opened Sydney restaurant, Bistrot 916’s take on bistro fare.

34 AN AMERICAN IN PARIS Family recipes from the book, Dinner in French,

by Melissa Clark.

40 THE CLASSICS Bouillabaisse, the beloved dish of the Mediterranean.

42 THE LIST

Stylist Elodie Rambaud shares her favourite places to visit in Bordeaux.

43 MEMOIR

Jacques Reymond reminisces over a meal at a traditional farmhouse in Jura.

44 LAST DRINKS

The white Negroni: France’s take on an Italian classic.

POSTCARD FROM

Rue Tiquetonne, Paris, France

09

IN PRINT

“The generally accepted formula for a so-called French dressing is 5 tablespoons of oil to 1 of vinegar. This is much too vinegary even with a mild vinegar. Red or white wine vinegar, tarragon or Orléans vinegar are the ones to go for. The dressing should, however, taste predominantly of olive oil; when the salad has been turned gently in the dressing, so that every leaf is coated with its film of oil, serve it at once, fresh, green and shining.”

Elizabeth David on Salade de Saison, Green Salad, from the book French Provincial Cooking

10

THE SOCIAL NETWORK

@cedricgrolet

Cédric Grolet

1.8m followers

Cult status

Pâtissier Cédric Grolet of Le Meurice Hotel in Paris has garnered international acclaim for his incredible pastries and life-like fruit creations. Inspired?

11

IN PROFILE

James Henry

The chef building the ambitious farm-to-table restaurant in Saint-Vrain, Le Doyenné.

WORDS BY SKYE GYNGELL

Above: Le Doyenné, Saint-Vrain.

James Henry’s trajectory could perhaps have been predicted: he spent his childhood living in many different places around the world, including Canberra, Paris, Riyadh, and San Francisco. He credits his parents, whose globally inspired good cooking and itinerant cookbook collection did much to mold him into the chef he is today. Henry has helmed restaurants from Paris to Hong Kong, as his unceasing curiosity guided him to new projects and new locales—always bringing his trademark sensitivity and a style that is simultaneously classic and entirely modern.

Henry first cooked in restaurants in Australia (Cumulus Inc. in Melbourne, the Stackings in Tasmania) before relocating to Paris. There, his creative energy attracted fans and propelled him into the limelight. He first worked at Spring, under Chef Daniel Rose, then at Au Passage, where his vegetable-centered small plates helped drive the Parisian neobistro movement. His first solo restaurant, Bones, further realised the city’s shift toward accessible dining. His cooking there was simple—without pretension, artifice, and distraction,

and

RECIPE BY JAMES HENRY

says Henry—and made possible by high-quality produce. He served dishes such as veal rump with dandelions, onions, and anchovies, and smoked eel alongside beets, egg, and leeks. And in a city where making one’s own bread and butter is nearly unheard of, Henry’s sourdough became a signature.

Restlessness and a desire for novelty landed him in Hong Kong after a pair of restaurateurs asked him to come on as executive chef for a French-style bistro there called Belon. But his latest project drew him back to France and to an eighteenth-century estate in the village of Saint-Vrain, thirty miles south of Paris. There, with partner, Shaun Kelly, Henry is planning a farm-to-table restaurant in the estate’s renovated stables. In advance, he has established the property’s orchards and farm, cultivated with his preferred heirloom varietals. He and Kelly have been growing and selling produce to Paris restaurants in the meantime—a delicious foreshadowing of the menus to come at Le Doyenné.

Crayfish and heirloom & tomato salad Serves 4 / Prep 30 mins / Cook 1 hr (plus cooling)

1

2

16

bunch of lovage (see note) large heirloom tomatoes Fleur de sel Piedmont hazelnuts, toasted and cracked in half Assorted torn basil leaves, buds, and flowers 150ml olive oil COURT-BOUILLON 500ml dry white wine (of drinking quality)

1 large heirloom tomato

1 leek, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalk, coarsely chopped

2 carrots, coarsely chopped

1 fennel bulb, coarsely chopped

8 thyme sprigs

3 bay leaves A few sprigs lovage

1 tbsp black peppercorns

POACHED CRAYFISH

8 large freshwater crayfish, such as marron 50ml extra-virgin olive oil 45ml white Banyuls vinegar Cracked black pepper and salt

Note If fresh lovage is unavailable, substitute tender celery leaves.

13

1. For court-bouillon, combine 2 litres water, the wine, the tomato, leek, celery, carrots, fennel, thyme, bay leaves, lovage, peppercorns, and 1 tbsp salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.

2. For the poached crayfish, strain court-bouillon, return to the pot, and bring to a rolling boil. Add crayfish and then turn off the heat. Leave for 4 minutes and then remove the crays and leave to cool at room temperature. Once cool enough to handle, shell the crayfish, keep the meat aside and return the shells to the court-bouillon and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Take 100ml of court-bouillon and mix with the olive oil and the vinegar. Season the vinaigrette with some cracked black pepper and salt.

3. Slice each crayfish tail lengthwise into three pieces, arrange 6 slices on each of 4 plates. Dress the crayfish with the vinaigrette. Chiffonade the lovage leaves and sprinkle over the dressed crayfish. Slice the tomatoes into 4mm slices and completely cover the crayfish.

Season the tomatoes with fleur de sel, add 8 hazelnut halves and the torn basil leaves to each plate and finish with olive oil.

WINE

Affordable Burgundy

Burgundy wines have a reputation for being expensive, however there are well-priced gems from small producers that are worth seeking out.

WORDS BY NICK HILDEBRANDT

Is affordable Burgundy an oxymoron? Beautiful Burgundian wine, or the wines that are made in the region of La Bourgogne in the Côte-d’Or, France, which consist of varietals Aligoté, Chardonnay, Melon, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for whites; Gamay, Pinot Noir and the ancient red grape César (from Yonne) for red wine, are considered to be some of the most expensive wines in the world. Over the past five years these have become increasingly more expensive and less-and-less accessible for the everyday wine lover. Increased demand, reduced yields, and a weak Australian dollar have all contributed to some domain’s prices rising considerably, and for many people buying at retail prices, you could expect to pay anywhere from $200- $2000 for a top dollar Burgundy from one of the big vineyards, such as Dujac or Cathiard. Are they worth it? Maybe.

Can you find just as good, at less cost? Definitely, affordable Burgundy does still exist. Traditionally and generally speaking the best reds come from the north where Pinot Noir makes up the predominant grape for Coteaux Bourguignons - the climate, soil and wine making make this a very special place.

The best whites, particularly Chardonnay however come from the south, such as the appellation of Puligny-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune, where they are influenced by cooler climate. And whilst terroir is important for quality, the most important aspect to any great wine is always the producer. A good winemaker will always make good wine from any appellation, and there are many that are worth seeking out. Here are a few of my favourites.

2018 Domaine Servin Chablis Chablis is probably the greatest value for money wine in all of Burgundy. Lovers of crisp, dry whites would all be aware of this.

This small producer is imported by our friends at Melbourne Institution France-Soir. This is classic Chablis and will keep for years and years or can be drunk now. (Also the 1er crus from the same producer go for around $60 and are brilliant!)

2018 Fanny Sabre Bourgogne Rouge The fruit from this comes from around the Beaune area in the heart of Burgundy. I always love this wine and I am especially enjoying 2018 for red Burgundy. There are a lot of red fruit notes in this wine along with Fanny’s signature whole bunch ferment characters, which add to the this wine. We have it listed at Ria, what a Pizza wine! $66, francesoirwineselections.com.au

$27.50 for 375ml, francesoirwineselections.com.au

2019 Domaine des Rouges Queues Aligoté Aligote as a grape has come of age in the last few years as wine makers have started to treat it with the same respect as more esteemed fruit. This tiny bio-dynamic Domaine is no different. This wine is lean and fresh and has great raw energy to it. Amazing with oysters. $54, drnks.com

2018 Domaine Philippe Robert Fixin “Entre Deux Velles” Fixin is a tiny village in the North of Burgundy that producers Pinot Noir with plenty of bang for your buck. This small Domaine, run by a father and son makes classic and honest Burgundy full of colour concentration and flavour. For me this wine is amazing value and has all the quality of a wine double its price. $58, blackheartsandsparrows.com.au 15

2018 Faiveley ‘Clos de Myglands’ 1er Cru For me this is the greatest value Burgundy on the planet. Faiveley is a very old and fairly large producer with amazing holdings in Burgundy that have really upped the ante on quality in the last 10 years. Prior to this, the wines were very hard and needed a lot of time to evolve. This single vineyard premier cru always jumps from the glass, with a bright and lifted perfume, that leads to a silky palate of raspberry and strawberry. Oak is well judged but definitely there. A premier cru wine from a Monopole vineyard and under $100 is super rare. $57, jimmurphy.com.au

À la mode

Visiting a French bistro, baking France’s finest desserts, and wishing we were cooking from a kitchen in Paris.

Canelé

The beautiful small cakes from Bordeaux are made from a batter flavoured with rum and vanilla, which when baked at a high temperature becomes crunchy and caramelised on the outside with a custard-y centre.

Where to find them: @mylittlecanele | @morningmarket.melbourne | @flourandstone

Tarte au citron meringuée Recipe p22

Crème de la An ode to French desserts, and these are the ones we love the most.

RECIPES

and

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y L I S A F E AT H E R B Y

Crème renversée Recipe p20

1. Whisk eggs and yolks in a bowl to combine, then add sugar and whisk until incorporated well. Stir through milk and vanilla seeds (save the pod and add to a jar of sugar to infuse for another use)and refrigerate mixture overnight to rest.

Crème renversée pictured p19 Serves 16 / Prep 20 mins / Cook 1¼ hrs (plus cooling, chilling)

This is also known as crème caramel. The recipe makes a large one, which is spectacular when trimmed and bought to the table. Some gold leaf on top would take this already quite luxe dessert to a whole new level.

9

3 280g 900ml

eggs egg yolks caster sugar milk Split seeds from ½ vanilla bean

CARAMEL 250g caster sugar

20

2. For caramel, combine sugar and 60ml water in a clean saucepan over medium heat, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Brush down sides of pan with a wet pastry and cook syrup, without stirring, until dark caramel (about 10 minutes; you want the caramel to be dark, but not burnt. If too light also, you’ll have a sweet-flavoured caramel, rather than bitter-sweet, which is essential to this dish).

Working very quickly, dip the base of the saucepan into a bowl of cold water to stop the caramel cooking (be careful of it spitting), then pour caramel into a warm 20cm x 30cm baking dish.

Carefully tip the dish so that the caramel covers all sides, then tip out any excess. Be very careful handling this as the caramel will burn. Set dish aside until caramel is set.

3. Preheat oven to 150°C. Place dish into a roasting pan, then pour in egg mixture into dish and place in the oven. Pour enough hot water into roasting pan to come two-thirds of the way up around sides, then cover loosely with foil, piercing around the edges, so steam escapes. Bake, without touching until custard is set with only a slight wobble in the centre (1 hr 15 mins - 1 hr 25 mins). Carefully remove the dish from the water bath and cool briefly, then cool completely in the fridge (overnight).

4. To serve, invert a platter over the dish and invert the custard to release it from the mould. Keeps for 2-3 days before turning out in the mould.

Brown butter & honey madeleines Recipe p22

Tarte au citron meringuée pictured p18

Brown butter & honey madeleines pictured p21

Serves 10 / Prep 30 mins / Cook 1½ hrs (plus cooling)

Makes about 16 / Prep 15 mins / Cook 15 mins

The lemon meringue tart is so beautiful and theatrical. The meringue on the top here is piped using a St Honoré piping tip, to create waves. The technique is easy once you know how, but you might like to do a test run onto a plate before you pipe the finishing touches onto the tart. Alternatively, you can dollop the meringue on top and create peaks with the back of a spoon for a more rustic finish.

Madeleines are little cakes that are made in a shellshaped tin. They are very buttery and should be eaten warm, but the batter can be in the tin ready to be baked just before serving. Once you’ve tried them warm, you’ll know why. Madeleines should have a bump that rises from the middle. You’ll need a large madeleine mould for these and for best results the tray should be cold as well as the batter before baking.

SWEET PASTRY 100g butter, softened 60g pure icing sugar, sieved 250g plain flour, sieved

2 egg yolks (reserve 1 beaten egg white, for brushing)

LEMON FILLING

7 eggs 280g caster sugar 180ml thickened cream 150ml lemon juice

ITALIAN MERINGUE 200g caster sugar 100g (about 3) egg whites

1. For pastry, beat butter and icing sugar in an electric mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment, until creamy. Stir through flour, then yolks, and wrap dough and refrigerate to rest.

2. For lemon filling, slowly blend eggs, sugar and juice in a blender just until combined, then while blending, add lemon juice until just combined. Refrigerate overnight to settle the froth, then remove the foam from the top of the mixture, and gently stir to combine.

3. Preheat oven to 190°C. Blind bake pastry shell using baking paper and pastry weights, such as dried legumes to fill, until edges are golden (30 minutes). Remove paper, reduce oven to 150°C and bake pastry shell until base is dried (15 minutes). Remove pastry from oven, then brush any holes or cracks liberally with the reserved egg white to seal them, then return tart to the oven. Carefully pour the filling into the tart case, and then bake until set with a slight wobbly just in the centre (45 minutes). Set aside to cool completely on a wire rack.

4. For Italian meringue, combine sugar and 60ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stir until sugar dissolves and brush down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to remove any sugar particles.

Increase heat to high and cook until syrup reaches 121°C on a sugar thermometer (6-9 minutes). Meanwhile, when syrup reaches 110°C, start whisking egg whites and a pinch salt in an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Gradually pour hot syrup over egg whites in a thin stream, whisking continuously until cooled, thick and glossy (10-12 minutes).

5. To serve tart, pipe meringue over tart with a piping bag fitted with a St Honoré nozzle, piping in a wave like motion in alternating lines across the tart. Caramelise the top with a blow torch if desired, then serve. Tart must be cooled to serve, and is best eaten the day of making, but will keep refrigerated for up to 2 days in an airtight container.

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100g unsalted butter, plus extra melted for brushing the moulds

1 egg

2 egg whites 70g caster sugar

3 tsp honey 90g plain flour, sieved

¾ tsp baking powder 1. Butter a large madeleine mould tray and refrigerate until required. (If the tray is new and non-stick or you’re using a silicon mould, you might not need to do this, but if the tray is older it’s best to dust lightly with flour also to prevent madeleines from sticking.)

2. Heat butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat until foaming and fragrantly nut-brown (5 minutes). Transfer to a heatproof bowl. Set aside to cool.

3. Whisk egg, whites, honey and sugar in an electric mixer until fluffy. Add flour aand baking powder and whisk to combine, then stir through brown butter.

4. Spoon batter into prepared tin, filling threequarters of the way to top. Refrigerate for 1 hour to firm and rest. You can leave the batter in the tray for a few hours before baking, and up to overnight.

Refrigerate remaining batter in a container or piping bag, ready for the second batch.

5. Preheat oven to 190°C. Bake madeleines until they are golden and risen and spring back when lightly touched (12-14 minutes). Remove from oven and while warm, tap the tray to release madeleines.

Dust with icing sugar and serve with whipped cream and extra honey, while you regrease the tray and bake the second batch.

Mousse au chocolat Serves 6 / Prep time 15 mins / Cook 15 mins (plus chilling)

A dark chocolate mousse is something that is so simple to make, and indulgent to eat. You can make it as light, or as heavy as you like. For this version, we’ve cooked the egg yolk out as you would a sabayon, then folded through whipped cream. The mousse would be lovely with some coffee granite on top also, or some fresh fruit tossed in a little liqueur.

200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)

5 egg yolks 30ml macadamia liqueur 80g caster sugar 125ml (½ cup) thickened cream, whisked to soft peaks, plus extra to serve 1. Place chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water and leave to melt without stirring, then stir once to combine. Set aside.

2. Increase heat so water bath is simmering at a fast simmer, then whisk yolks, sugar and macadamia liqueur in a separate heatproof bowl over simmering water until mixture is thick and holds a ribbon.

Remove from heat, then fold through chocolate.

3. Meanwhile, whisk cream to soft peaks. Fold chocolate mixture through cream with a spatula. Make sure the mixture is not too hot, it should be at room temperature, otherwise cream will melt. Also, you’ll want to fold to quickly, as the mixture can sieve up if you take too long. Pour mixture into serving bowls or glasses, then refrigerate until set (2 hours).

4. Serve chocolate mousse with extra whipped cream and berries, if desired.

A dark chocolate mousse is something that is so simple to make, and indulgent to eat.

Gâteau St-Honoré Makes 1, with extra profiteroles / Prep 1 hr / Cook 1 hr (plus cooling, chilling)

This dessert is to be attempted when you have a good dayand-a-half on your hands. However, it’s quite spectacular, and the combination of pastry cream, flaky puff pastry and crunchy caramel is pure heaven. This cake, or pastry, is traditionally made with a crème chiboust, a pastry cream with meringue folded through it. We’ve simplified that and used a pastry cream that is whipped to create a smooth finish. Be careful when dipping the choux puffs here, as caramel is super-hot and will burn. The choux make more than you need, but the extra will freeze well for another use.

1 sheet butter puff pastry, such as Carême, rolled to 4mm-thick, refrigerated to rest

PASTRY CREAM

7 egg yolks 130g caster sugar 55g cornflour 620ml milk 30g butter

CHOUX 85g butter, diced 95g plain flour, served

½ tsp salt

½ tsp sugar

4 eggs

CARAMEL 300g caster sugar

CHANTILLY CREAM 200g fresh cream

2 tbsp pure icing sugar, served Scraped seeds of ½ vanilla bean

1. For pastry cream, whisk yolks and sugar in a bowl until creamy, then stir through cornflour. Bring milk and cream to a simmer in a saucepan, then pour one-third onto yolk mixture and whisk to combine. Return mixture to remaining milk and whisk to combine, then cook over medium-high heat, whisking continuously, until thick. Remove from heat, then whisk in butter to finish.

Transfer mixture to a lightly buttered bowl or container, cover directly with plastic wrap. Set aside to cool, then refrigerate until chilled. Before using, whisk pastry cream in an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle and refrigerate until required.

2. Preheat oven to 220°C. Cut puff pastry to a 28cm round. Bake between sheets of baking paper and two trays until golden and crisp (15-20 minutes). Set aside to cool.

3. For choux, preheat oven to 220°C. Bring butter and 230ml water to a boil over medium-high heat in a saucepan. Remove from heat and add flour, salt and sugar, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until smooth. Return to heat and beat until thick (20-30 seconds). Set aside for 2 minutes, then beat in eggs, vigorously one at a time until combined. Transfer mixture to a piping bag, fitted with a 1cm nozzle. Pipe on a tray lined with baking paper in 3cm-wide mounds, leaving space between each to expand. Bake until puffed and golden (20 minutes). Reduce oven to 100°C and heat until crisp. Cool, then pierce the base with a knife, which will be the hole you’ll pipe the cream into. Store in an airtight container until required.

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4. For caramel, stir sugar and 60ml water in a clean saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Brush down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to remove sugar crystals, then cook, without stirring until sugar is a light caramel. At this stage, you can remove the caramel from the heat and let is sit until you’re ready to dip the puffs, as it will keep cooking, until a dark caramel. If the caramel is too dark, you can dip the base of the pan into a bowl of cold water to stop it cooking (be careful of water spiting and hot caramel).

5. To assemble, pipe some pastry cream into the base of each choux puff and set aside on a plate or tray. Working with two skewers to hold one profiterole at a time, dip the choux puff round side down into the caramel, then place onto puff pastry round, caramel side up around the edge, allowing a little caramel to run underneath, which will help hold the puffs in place. Pipe remaining pastry cream over the centre of the pastry.

6. For Chantilly cream, whisk cream, sugar and vanilla seeds to medium-firm peaks.

Transfer to a piping bag with the end cut on a sharp angle, or fitted with a St Honoré piping tip (this will help pipe in a ribbon).

Pipe cream across the top, then finish with an extra profiterole on top if desired, and extra profiterole served on the side. Tart is best eaten on the day of making but will keep refrigerated for a few hours.

R H E V C O N E L R

U

N O I T

F Potato grenobloise Recipe p33

A cool new bistro is dazzling Sydney with clever twists on classic French fare. Welcome to Bistrot 916.

RECIPES BY DANIEL PEPPERELL

and

MICHAEL CLIFT

with

DRINK SUGGESTIONS BY ANDY T YSON

Duck frites Recipe p33

Scallop ceviche

Boudin noir spring rolls pictured p32

Serves 8 / Prep 30 mins / Cook 10 mins (plus ageing)

Serves 4 / Prep 30 mins / Cook 5 mins (plus chilling)

“The pumpkin custard is a play on sweet potato used in Peruvian ceviche,” says Daniel Pepperell.

“I use fresh Queensland or Tasmanian scallops and let them sit in the lime juice for 2 minutes before plating to make this a refreshing and zingy crudo.”

“My favourite Vietnamese dish is spring rolls,” says Pepperell. “Our version uses boudin noir in brik pastry. The mint and cider dipping sauce adds freshness to the spiced boudin noir.”

16 scallops, quartered 150ml lime juice Finger lime, to serve (optional) Extra-virgin olive oil, thinly sliced baby cucumber, trout roe, chervil sprigs, dill, radish, to serve

ORANGE KOSHO

1 tbsp orange zest

1 habanero chilli

½ tsp salt

TIGER MILK 150gm crème fraiche 60ml buttermilk Few drops of fish sauce

PUMPKIN CUSTARD 240g butternut pumpkin, seeds removed and flesh juiced through a juicer

5 eggs

1 tbsp soy sauce

1 tsp each caster sugar and salt 1. For orange kosho, pound ingredients and 1/2 tsp salt in a mortar and pestle until a paste. Refrigerate to age for 2 days before using.

400g boudin noir sausage (see note), skins removed and coarsely crumbled

2 sheets brik pastry, halved (see note) Vegetable oil, for deep frying Butter lettuce leaves and mint sprigs to serve

DIPPING SAUCE 500ml apple cider 30g caster sugar 30ml apple cider vinegar

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 thin slices ginger

½ tsp soy sauce 2.5g cornstarch mixed with

1 tsp cold water

½ Granny Smith apple, finely diced

1 tbsp finely chopped chives, to serve 1. For dipping sauce, combine ingredients (except cornstarch, apple and chives) in a saucepan and reduce over medium heat until reduced to 150ml.

Whisk in cornstarch slurry and cook until glossy, then remove from heat and cool completely. Strain, then refrigerate to chill, then stir through apple and chives just before serving.

2. For the tiger milk, whisk ingredients to combine.

3. For pumpkin custard, blend ingredients to combine, then strain through a fine sieve into small heatproof serving bowls. Steam in a steamer at 99C-100°C, covered in glad wrap until just set (6-10 minutes).

4. To serve, mix fresh scallops with a few tablespoons of lime juice and spoon onto custards.

Spoon over tiger milk. Whisk orange kosho in a bowl with remaining lime juice, olive oil, finger limes. Arrange garnishes on top of mixture, then drizzle with dressing and serve.

2. For pastries, place one half a pastry at a time on a clean surface, then crumble boudin noir along one edge. Fold ends in, then roll up to enclose completely, brushing the edges with water to seal. Keep pastries covered in the refrigerator until serving.

3. Preheat a deep fryer to 180°C. Deep fry spring rolls, turning occasionally until golden and crisp (2 minutes). Drain on absorbent paper, then serve with leaves, mint and dipping sauce.

Wine match A classic Vouvray.

Drink match: A junmai daiginjo sake.

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Notes Brik pastry is available from select Middle Eastern grocers.

You can also use spring roll wrappers, found in supermarkets.

At Bistrot 916 they make the boudin noir, however you can source quality boudin noir for this recipe from select butchers and delicatessens.

Scallop ceviche

Pork rillettes Serves 8 / Prep 20 mins / Cook 3 hrs (plus chilling)

600g 600g 2 tsp 20g

¼

¼

pork shoulder, diced pork belly, diced Murray river salt garlic, chopped onion, diced bunch thyme Melted fat, to seal Serve with pickle of choice (below) and baguette

1. Combine the proks in a bowl and season witb the salt. Transfer to a non-reactive container with remaining ingredients and refrigerate to season for a few hours.

2. Preheat oven to 120°C and transfer pork mixture to a baking dish, cover with foil and roast until tender and meat is able to be pulled apart (2½ - 3 hrs). Transfer hot meat to an electric mixer fitted with a paddle, and mix until meat breaks down, adding fat from the pan into the mixture as you go.

3. Transfer rillettes to a jar or container and spoon chicken or duck fat over to seal the top. Rillette’s will keep refrigerated for 3 weeks if covered with fat.

Wine match: A dry German Riesling.

“Made a little more vibrant with a mixture of different pickles and textures, a different mouthful with each element.

Choose your own adventure!”

Pickled cabbage

Zucchini pickle

Radish pickles

Makes 1 litre / Prep 20 mins / Cook 5 mins

Makes 500ml / Prep 15 mins / Cook 5 mins

Makes 500ml / Prep 15 mins / Cook 5 mins

800g cabbage, very thinly sliced on a mandolin

1 small red chilli, finely chopped 60g salt 120ml apple cider vinegar 120g caster sugar

Combine cabbage, chilli and salt in a bowl and toss to combine, then stand to cure for 1 hour. Rinse cabbage then squeeze excess moisture and transfer to a jar. Bring vinegar and sugar to the boil in a saucepan and pour over cabbage.

Refrigerate to pickle (overnight).

Will keep for 3 weeks.

300g

1 100ml 50g

½

½

300g 100ml 1 tbsp

2

zucchini, thinly sliced tsp yellow mustard seeds apple cider vinegar caster sugar tsp turmeric tsp salt

Place zucchini in a jar to fit snug, or container. Toast mustard seeds in a saucepan over medium heat (10 seconds), then add vinegar, sugar, turmeric and salt and bring to the boil. Pour over zucchini. Refrigerate to pickle (overnight). Pickles will keep refrigerated for 3 weeks.

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radishes, cut into wedges apple cider vinegar red wine vinegar tsp dried shiso (optional; see note) 15g salt Combine radish in a container or jar, to fit snug. Bring vinegars, shiso, salt and 25ml water -to the boil in a saucepan and pour over radish.

Refrigerate to pickle (overnight).

Pickles will keep for 3 weeks.

Note Dried shiso is available from a Japanese grocer.

Pork rillettes

Boudin noir spring rolls Recipe p28 32

Potato grenobloise pictured p26

Duck frites pictured p27

Serves 8-10 / Prep 20 mins / Cook 1 hr

Serves 6 / Prep 30 mins / Cook 6 hrs

“Burnt butter on pureed potato, butter and cream - the nuttiness adds another layer of fat complexity, and the dried scallop is full of rich umami and texture,” says Pepperell.

“This steak frites sauce is based off the one at Le Relais de l’ Entrecote in Paris,” says Pepperell. “Leave duck uncovered in the fridge skin side-up for 3 days first to help crisp skin. The duck needs to be cooked slowly, and any fat that accumulates in the pan removed to keep the skin crisping. Leftover rendered fat is great roasting potatoes at a later date.”

1kg Desiree potatoes, peeled 250g butter, diced, softened 250ml (1 cup) pouring cream 150ml milk Lemon juice, to taste GRENOBLOISE 80g dried scallops (see note) 400g butter

¼ cup salted capers, rinsed and drained

2 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley

3 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste

1. Steam potatoes in a steamer until tender and easily pierced with a knife (30-40 minutes).

2. Mash potatoes through a mouli for the best results, or your preferred way to mash, into a saucepan. Heat butter, cream and milk in a separate saucepan over medium heat, then gradually add to the mashed potatoes while stirring, until smooth, then season to taste. Transfer potato puree to a large baking dish, or individual gratin dishes and keep warm in a low oven.

3. Meanwhile, for genobloise, steam scallops in a steamer until tender (20 minutes), then process in a blender to a floss. Heat butter in a saucepan over high heat until browned and nutty (5 minutes). Stir through remaining ingredients and scallop floss and remove from heat.

4. To serve, spoon grenobloise over potatoes and serve hot.

Note Dried scallops are available from Asian supermarkets.

Wine match A Provence rosé.

6 duck breasts, scored

1 tbsp duck fat

2 thyme sprigs

1 garlic clove, bruised 20g butter, diced French fries, to serve DUCK SAUCE 3kg duck bones

1 pig’s trotter

1 each carrot, onion and celery stalk

4 garlic cloves

6 thyme sprigs

1 fresh bay leaf

3 star anise ½ small cinnamon quill 1 tbsp tomato paste, roasted

1 tbsp each chopped chervil, and flat-leaf parsley

2 anchovy fillets ,chopped

10 salted and rinsed capers, chopped

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp Worcestershire A squeeze of lemon, to taste

1. For duck sauce, preheat oven to 220°C. Roast bones and vegetables in a roasting pan until golden (1 hour). Transfer to a stock pot with remaining ingredients and enough water to cover bones.

Bring to a simmer over high heat, then skim surface and simmer over low heat, topping up with a little water as necessary, until stock is well-flavoured (5-6 hours). Strain stock, then transfer to a clean pan.

Reduce stock over medium heat until a shiny sauce (demi-glace), about 200ml.

2. Heat oven to 180°C. Place duck breasts skin side down in a cold cast iron pan with duck fat, thyme and garlic, then heat over low heat until duck is golden and fat has rendered (about 5 minutes). Turn the breast, then transfer to an oven, skin side-up placed on a wire rack on a tray, and roast until cooked medium-rare (5 minutes). Set aside to rest in a warm place (5 minutes).

3. Meanwhile, fry French fries according to packet instructions and drain on paper towel.

4. To serve, heat duck sauce in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in butter until glossy, then stir through remaining ingredient and season to taste.

5. Serve duck, sliced with duck sauce and fries to the side.

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Note At Bistrot 916 they season the fries with a nori-rosemary salt. To nake this: blend leaves from 4 fresh rosemary sprigs with 4 nori sheets, add 50g sea salt flakes to combine. Store in an airtight container.

Wine match A clean, ccol climate pinot noir, such as Latta, Victoria, or a classic Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Recipes from a time spent holidaying and growing up in France, from the latest book, Dinner in French.

RECIPES BY MELISSA CLARK

An

and

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y L A U R A E D WA R D S

American

in Roasted cauliflower with brown butter, raisins, & capers Recipe p36

Paris

Roasted cauliflower with brown butter, raisins, & capers pictured p34

Salade Niçoise Serves 4 / Prep 20 mins / Cook 20 mins

Serves 4 / Prep 15 mins / Cook 40 mins

“This combination of nutty brown butter, salty capers, sweet raisins, and cauliflower was inspired

by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who has been serving it as a sauce for scallops at his restaurant Jean-Georges since it opened in 1997,” says Clark.

1 cauliflower (about 900g), cut into bite-size pieces

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ tsp fine sea salt, or to taste

1/3 cup pine nuts

4 tbsp unsalted butter

3 tbsp golden raisins

¼ tsp finely grated nutmeg

2 tbsp capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped

2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped Lemon wedges, for serving 1. Heat oven to 220°C. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together the cauliflower, oil, and salt. Roast until the cauliflower is caramelised (30-35 minutes), tossing it once more halfway through.

2. Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Stir in pine nuts and cook, tossing them frequently, until toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pine nuts to a plate.

3. Return the pan to medium heat and melt the butter in it. Continue cooking, swirling occasionally, until butter is brown and nutty (5-7 minutes). Remove pan from heat and continue to swirl occasionally as it cools; the butter will continue to cook; swirling helps prevent overbrowning.

4. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a small pot. Put raisins in a seive and then pour boiling water over them. Let the drained raisins cool for 5 minutes, then pat them dry and stir them into the browned butter. Add the nutmeg to the brown butter aswell.

“The Niçoise salads I ate in France when I was a kid all featured good canned tuna, the kind so richly infused with olive oil it was the ocean equivalent of butter,” says Melissa Clark. “Look for tuna packed in olive oil in cans or jars, rather than anything packed in soybean oil or water.”

2 tbsp finely chopped eschallots 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tsp red wine vinegar 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 450g baby or very small red potatoes 450g haricots verts (green beans), trimmed

2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into chunks

4 large eggs 280g good-quality olive oil– packed tuna, drained

½ cup Niçoise olives Chopped fresh basil leaves, to taste

1. In a small bowl, whisk together eschallots, mustard, vinegar, anchovies, a pinch of salt, and pepper to taste. Slowly whisk in the oil until the dressing is emulsified. Taste, and add more salt if needed.

2. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the potatoes until tender (10-15 minutes). Use a slotted spoon to transfer the potatoes to a large bowl (save the water in the pot); pat the potatoes dry and toss with enough of the dressing to thoroughly coat them. Taste and add more salt if needed.

3. Bring the potato water back to a boil and add the green beans. Cook until crisp (2-3 minutes). Drain, pat the beans dry, and add them to the bowl containing the potatoes, tossing with a little more of the dressing.

4. In a separate bowl, combine tomatoes and more of the dressing.

Taste and add more salt if needed.

5. While the vegetables marinate, cook the eggs: Place the eggs in a medium pot and add water to cover by 21/2 cm. Bring to a boil.

Immediately remove from the heat, cover, and set aside for 8 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice and cold water. Transfer the eggs with a slotted spoon to the bowl of ice water. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel and halve the eggs lengthwise. Sprinkle lightly with salt.

7. Arrange the potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, egg halves, and tuna on a large platter. Scatter the olives over all. Spoon the remaining dressing over the salad. Drizzle the salad with oil and sprinkle with basil.

5. When cauliflower comes out of the oven, pour brown butter, toasted pine nuts, and capers over it on the tray. Toss to combine, then scrape the mixture onto a serving platter. Top with the parsley and more salt, and serve with lemon wedges.

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Salade Niçoise

Lamb shank cassoulet Serves 8 / Prep 1 hr / Cook 5 hrs (plus overnight marinating)

LAMB ¾ tsp sweet paprika 2 tsp finely chopped thyme 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary 6 garlic cloves, finely grated 4 lamb shanks (about 450g each) 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 1 large onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 2 celery stalks, diced 1 tsp tomato paste 1 tsp harissa 2 cups robust wine (red, white, or a combination) 2½ cups lamb or chicken stock, preferably homemade, plus more as needed BEANS 450g dried white beans, soaked overnight 3 tsp fine sea salt, plus more as needed 1 bouquet garni (see note) 450g lamb or pork sausage 1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 1 onion, diced 4 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 cup tomato purée or crushed tomatoes 1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade 1 tsp grated lemon zest TOPPING 3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp chopped rosemary 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tsp grated lemon zest 1 cup panko breadcrumbs

Note For bouquet garni, tie 3 sprigs each thyme and parsley and 2 sprigs rosemary and 1 bay leaf with kitchen string.

“Cassoulet, a sumptuous dish of soft, aromatic beans and meats baked under a crisp bread-crumb crust, may not be the kind of thing you’ll find in fancy French restaurants, but what it lacks in refinement it makes up for in rustic, brawny charm,” says Melissa Clark. “I substitute lamb, both shanks and sausages, which gives the dish a slightly more sophisticated character. ” 1. For the lamb, combine paprika, thyme, rosemary, and half of the garlic with 1½ tsp salt and ½ tsp ground black pepper. Rub the mixture over the lamb shanks, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

2. Heat oven to 160°C. Heat oil in a large casserole over medium-high heat. Add shanks, and brown (3-5 minutes per side; the more color you get on the meat, the richer the sauce). Transfer meat to a plate as it browns. If casserole looks dry, drizzle in a little more oil. Add onion, carrots, celery, remaining garlic, and a pinch of salt and sauté until vegetables are tender and golden (5-7 minutes). Add tomato paste and harissa and cook until pastes darken (30 seconds-1 minute). Add wine and cook until reduced by half (3-5 minutes). Add stock and bring to a simmer. Return the lamb and any juices to the pot, cover, and braise in the oven, turning every 1/2 hr, until meat is very tender (1½-2 hours). When meat is cool enough to handle, coarsely shred meat.

3. Meanwhile, drain beans and place in a pot with enough water to cover by 5cm; add bouquet garni and 2 tsp salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 mins. Add sausage to beans and poach for 15 minutes. Transfer sausage to a cutting board to cool slightly.

Continue to cook beans until tender (15 minutes and up to 2 hours, depending upon what kind you used; If water level gets low, add boiling water to the pot.) Drain beans in a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid, and discard herbs. Reserve cooking liquid.

4. When lamb is cool enough to handle, tear meat and put it in a bowl. Discard bones.

Scoop out vegetables from the pot and add them to the lamb. Taste liquid left in the pot.

If it tastes bland and seems thin and watery, simmer until it thickens slightly, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer liquid 39

to a measuring cup and spoon fat off the top.

You should have between 1-1½ cups liquid.

Reserve the liquid. Reserve the casserole for baking the cassoulet.

5. To finish the beans, heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers, add onion, half the garlic, the pepper, and a pinch of salt. Sauté until onion is translucent, about 4 minutes.

6. Dice reserved lamb sausage and add to the pan. Sauté until sausage and onions are golden (5-10 minutes). Add tomato purée and simmer until oil separates and sauce reduces, about 10 minutes. Add drained beans and stock, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beans are moist and very soupy (12-15 minutes). Add some reserved bean cooking liquid if mixture dries out at any point. Stir in the remaining garlic, lemon zest, and parsley. Season to taste.

7. Increase oven to 180°C. Spoon half the beans into the casserole, top with lamb and vegetables, and cover with remaining beans.

Pour reserved lamb liquid around edges until it reaches the top. If there’s not enough lamb liquid, add some reserved bean liquid.

8. For topping, mix butter, rosemary, garlic, zest, and ¼ tsp salt in a bowl. Add crumbs and mix, making sure butter is distributed.

Sprinkle mixture evenly on top of the beans in the pot. Bake until crust is lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Use the a large spoon to lightly crack the crust; the liquid will bubble up. Spoon this liquid all over the top of the crust. Return to the oven and bake for 30 minutes to 1 hour more, cracking the crust and drizzling with the bean liquid every 20 minutes or so, until crust is well-browned and the liquid is bubbling. (The total baking time should be 1¼ to 1½ hours.) Cool slightly, then serve.

Bouillabaisse

One of the true pleasures of Provence is found in a traditional fish stew along France’s azure coastline.

RECIPE BY BEN GREENO

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THE CLASSICS

The classic Provençal seafood stew, known as bouillabaisse sets the benchmark for various seafood stews found along the Mediterranean coastline. Bouillabaisse is something you don’t make in a hurry. The ingredients are costly, as it requires the very best quality seafood and saffron. The stew should contain at least three varieties of fish, with some shellfish as well, and some versions call for as many as seven varieties of seafood. The luxurious soup base is made from grinding whole fish, that’s been cooked in a broth, through a mouli. The broth is then used to poach the seafood in. The dish is usually served with rouille, a spicy saffronscented emulsion, and croutons to the side. The beauty of bouillabaisse is that the broth and rouille can be made ahead leaving only the seafood to be cooked in the broth, and croutons toasted on the day of serving.

“This dish is all about getting around a table with friends and sharing beautiful food,” says Ben Greeno. “I have many great memories of eating bouillabaisse in France, and it’s a dish you need to make at least once.”

Bouillabaisse Serves 6 / Prep 1 hr / Cook 4 hrs

6 assorted fish fillets, such as dory, snapper, hapuka, halved (trimmings reserved for the soup)

12 black mussels

6 baby potatoes, peeled and parboiled Thinly sliced toasted baguette, to serve

SOUP BASE

2 eschallots, diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

1 small fennel bulb

1 small garlic head, whole and halved

1 tbsp olive or vegetable oil 1.5kg snapper bones and fish trimmings, coarsely chopped

1 whole baby snapper or bream (500g), coarsely chopped 400g crab legs or 1 whole large blue swimmer crab (cut into pieces and coarsely crushed) 100ml Pernod 250ml white wine 40g tomato paste 800g peeled canned tomatoes Large pinch of saffron threads

6 thyme sprigs, 1 fresh bay leaf and 1 sprig rosemary, all tied with string

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1. For soup base, combine vegetables and garlic with oil in a stockpot and stir over low-medium heat until they are tender (about 10 minutes). Add fish bones, whole snapper, fish trimmings and crab, and stir to combine for a minute. Add wine and Pernod and simmer over medium heat until wine is almost reduced (about 15 minutes). Add tomato paste, tomatoes, saffron and herbs, and 5 litres of water, and bring to a simmer over high heat, then simmer over low-medium heat until stock is well-flavoured (3 hours).

2. Cool stock briefly, then pass mixture through a mouli, or large colander, or chinoise, pressing on all the solids. Discard solids, then strain mixture again through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan. Reduce stock over medium heat until it is reduced by two-thirds (about 1½ hours). Season to taste and reserve until required.

3. Heat soup in a wide saucepan over medium heat to a simmer. Add mussels and potatoes and cook until mussels open (2-3 minutes), then set mussels and potatoes aside in a serving dish. Add fish fillets to broth and simmer until just cooked (2 minutes). Transfer to serving dish and ladle the broth on top. Serve bouillabaisse with croutons and rouille on the side.

Rouille To make rouille, crush 2 garlic cloves in mortar and pestle until a paste. Add ¼ tsp cayenne, a pinch of saffron threads and 1 egg yolk and mix to combine, then slowly add 175ml olive oil onto the yolks, while stirring vigorously to emulsify. When rouille is nice and thick, season to taste with a little red wine vinegar and lemon juice and sea salt flakes.

THE LIST

Le Cent 33

Fumette Cap Ferret

Darwin Écosystème

Where locals go

The city of Bordeaux is home to one of Europe’s top interior and food stylists. Here she shares her favourite spots.

WORDS BY ELODIE RAMBAUD

EAT

CAFÉ ERIU Great coffee shop, where everything is house-made.

119 Rue Fondaudège @cafeeriu LAUZA An elegant little bistro, featuring food from Southern France.

5 Rue du Hâ @lauzabordeaux

Café Eriu Soif

LES CHANTIERS DE LA GARONNE Sit outside on sandy soil by the Garonne river to eat fresh oysters.

21 Quai de Queyrie @leschantiersdelagaronne LE CENT 33 Modern French cuisine all about sharing, great wines and service.

133 Rue du Jardin public @cent33bordeaux

Éditions Vétiver

MICHELINE ET PAULETTE A tiny bakery with pretty and delicious pâtisseries.

21 Rue Notre Dame @micheline_paulette_patisserie

DRINK

SOIF Natural wine, traditional food - the brioche perdue au caramel (with vinaigre de vieux banyuls) is a must.

35 Rue du Cancera @soif.bordeaux RAISIN ET COPAINS A wine cellar of artisan-winemakers, supporters of peasant wine, terroirs of France and elsewhere.

2 Rue de la Croix-de-Seguey @raisinsetcopains

SHOP

BOUCHE BORDEAUX A butcher with meat from local farms, such as Montbéliarde.

117 bis Cours Victor Hugo @bouche.bordeaux FUMETTE CAP FERRET Smoked wild fish that is sustainably caught.

13 Avenue du Grand Crohot @fumettecapferret COUTUME STUDIO A beautiful space and great fashionable pieces.

46 Rue Lafaurie de Monbadon @coutumestudio

MAISON JOUMANA Lebanese cuisine cooked at a private home for groups of six. @maisonjoumana

ÉDITIONS VÉTIVER Great selection of products designed in Morocco.

27 Rue Gaspard Philippe @editionsvetiver

MAISON LAMOUR Viennoiseries, andpâtisseries, plus voted best bakery in France.

157 Rue Judaïque @maison.lamour

DARWIN ÉCOSYSTÈME A coffee roaster, outdoor space and shops with a skate park.

87 Quai des Queyries @darwin.camp

42

MEMOIR

Jura, France

Roads to travel

The beauty of a traditional farmhouse in the Jura mountains.

WORDS BY JACQUES REYMOND

A few years ago, walking in the mountains close to my village in France, we came across a beautiful little farm called Auberge La Chevrière. We were too late for lunch that day, but said we will return. A few weeks later we had friends from Australia with us and we knew where we were taking them. It was a Monday. When we arrived the restaurant was packed. We were told we could only order the menu du jour - a small selection of entrée, mains and desserts, with local cheese - as the boss had a doctor’s appointment and was leaving at one-thirty. The couple who owned the place were probably in their late 70s, or early 80s and had been running the restaurant forever. The husband cooked at night and the wife for lunch, and when one was cooking, the other was front of the house. They argued over everything, it was very entertaining.

43

We were happy to choose the daily set menu, which was very simple and traditional food. Coffee was included, as well as a pichet (carafe) of local Jura red wine, and the bill came to 52 euros. We ordered the frog’s legs, which were cooked perfectly, and far too many of them to eat, but delicious.

Paupiettes de veau, or veal medallions, came in a cream and champignon (mushroom) sauce, with crusty baguette on the side. The restaurant decor was classically French; the old farmhouse had beautiful old-beamed ceilings, with a wood-fire burning, and redand-white checked tablecloths - it’s so hard to find a restaurant like this, one that is so traditional. It was such a memorable place, which sadly is currently closed, but hopefully, we’ll get to return in 2022.

La Chevrière, Nantey. 39160 Saint Amour, Coordonnées

LAST DRINKS

Carte Blanche

White Negroni

Makes 1

France’s answer to the Negroni - created by Wayne Collins in Bordeaux - is a herbal and distinctly lightercoloured drink that uses Suze and Lillet Blanc.

30 ml Plymouth or London Dry gin 30 ml Lillet Blanc 30 ml Suze Grapefruit twist, to garnish

Combine all the ingredients in a rocks glass. Add large ice cubes and stir for 10 seconds. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.

Variations • Use blanc vermouth in place of the Lillet Blanc.

• Make it a stronger, drier drink by increasing the gin to 45ml and using 20ml each Suze and Lillet, or Suze and blanc vermouth.

• Instead of grapefruit, use an orange or lemon twist.

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