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BECOME A SPONSORED ATHLETE TIPS FROM THE PROS VETERANS AND MOUNTAINS REVIVING EXCITEMENT FOR THE FUTURE LIFE, STILL FULL OF MAGIC FINDING OUTDOOR BALANCE IN A PANDEMIC COLORADO’S WEST END A TREASURE OF ISOLATION AND RECREATION SEEING IS BELIEVING A NEW NORMAL ON A GRAND SCALE FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US
R A P T OR | R AV EN
Chasing your buds down singletrack r i b b o n s , t o s s i n g p o s t- r i d e g a i n e r s i n t o chilly mountain lakes and sleeping under the stars waiting to do it all again—we live for days like these, and w e buil t t he ne w R ap t or/ R a v en s er ie s to suppor t them. With an updated wing-shaped harness for stabilit y and comfor t , plus premium features like a tool roll organizer and an included 2 . 5 - l i t e r r e s e r v o i r, t h e R a p t o r / R a v e n series delivers ever y thing you need, for big rides and good times.
CONTENTS
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24 18 28 38 F E AT U RE S
12 COLORADO’S WEST END:
A TREASURE OF ISOLATION AND RECREATION
How a rich vein of recreation could transform former mining communities. by margaret hedderman
18 DERIVING STRENGTH
FROM MORE THAN MOUNTAINS How all of us can revive excitement for the future by reliving the past. by josh jespersen
24 SO YOU WANT TO BECOME A SPONSORED ATHLETE?
Tips from the pros. What you need to know. by nancy prichard bouchard, ph.d.
32 CAMARADERIE AND TRAGEDY AT THE GATES OF LODORE
A river trip provides a reliable stream of seasonal fun, thrills and wonderment for friends and family – except when things go wrong. by andrew gulliford
38 LIFE, STILL FULL OF MAGIC
How time in the outdoors provides balance during a pandemic. by morgan tilton
44 BOAT WALKER: A
TERRIFYING TALE OF A WEST WITHOUT WATER
Packrafting the Escalante River at low water provides a sneak peek of a possible apocalypse. by morgan sjogren
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D EPARTMENTS
05 WHAT’S ONLINE 06 OPENING SHOT 08 OUTDOOR VITALS
Rockfall! by lis mclaughlin
16 BEHIND THE LENS 28 HIDDEN GEMS
Seeing is Believing by jenny johnston
42 GEAR BIN 48 SIPS ‘N’ SUDS
River Trip Refreshment by tiona eversole
50 KILLER WEEKEND Flagstaff, Arizona by bruce grubbs
52 HOW TO
Fix a Broken Chain and Flat Tire by carter atkinson
54 WILD VOICES
River guide Colleen Cooley by morgan sjogren
56 VISTAS
ABOUT THE COVER Corey Wright takes a dive at Adrenaline Falls, a waterfall on Lime Creek north of Durango, Colorado. photo by Terrance Siemon
FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US EDITORIAL
Jan Nesset editor Colleen Donley art director Terrance Siemon photographer & videographer Laurie Kain photographer & videographer Hunter Harrell copy editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Carter Atkinson Tiona Eversole Margaret Hedderman Nancy Prichard Bouchard Lis McLaughlin
Morgan Tilton Josh Jespersen Bruce Grubbs Andrew Gulliford Jenny Johnston Morgan Sjogren
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Carter Atkinson Tim DaCosta Meredith Edwards Tiona Eversole Jarrod Fast Mark Going Bruce Grubbs Andrew Gulliford Josh Jespersen
Robert A. Jonas Didrik Johnck Dustin Kisling Cameron Maier Eric Phillips Doug Scott Jerry Sintz Morgan Sjogren Wouter Van Tiel
A DV E R T I S I N G
Jamie Opalenik director of multimedia sales Amy Baird Joe Nelson Tana Bowen Teressa Nelson Kelly Bulkley Shell Simonson Shelly Corwin Chandler Sommerfeldt Cole Davis Cecelia Wazny Colleen Donley MARKETING
Kyndal Carter marketing coordinator DESIGN
Tad Smith manager of creative services Gary Markstein designer Bridget Williams designer I N T E R AC T I V E
Jace Reynolds web designer Skylar Bolton web development M A N AG E R
Douglas Bennett chief executive officer Carrie Cass director of finance /ADVENTUREPROMAG @ADVENTUREPROMAG ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE @ADVENTUREPROMAGAZINE ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE
© 2020 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301 Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers. Please write to the editor at the address above.
&
EDITOR'S NOTE
U P WA R D O N WA R D
“I would rather be a superb meteor, every atom of me in magnificent glow, than a sleepy and permanent planet. The proper function of a man is to live, not to exist.”
W
~ jack
london
When the coronavirus was declared a global pandemic in March, our team at Adventure Pro was busy writing stories, planning issues and playing outside. The pandemic turned everything upside down. It required changing stories to fit a “new normal,” altering plans to an unsettled recreational landscape and rethinking how we play. In very little time, I got restless. My equally restless daughter and I climbed a closed ski resort and skied an easy route down. A “normal” day would have been spent chasing her down steep slopes. The whole day. Did we do the right thing? Not in everybody’s eyes. The chance we took risked too much. I get it, but I also don’t. I grew up with a craving for adventure and a resentment for how it led me into trouble at home. A wood pallet makes a lousy raft. Tree tops have limits. Caves go deep. Wind spreads flames. Snakes strike. Rocks tumble off course. Who knew? Now that I do know, I also know that I cannot shake my intrinsic craving for adventure. Don’t want to. Trouble be damned. I also recognize real trouble and appreciate what’s behind those who expressly avoid trouble. And the coronavirus is trouble. Avoid it, everybody. I get that. But at all costs? The rub here is the same for everybody. How do we live that penultimate cliché of “living life to the fullest” with sheared-off gusto? Fortunately, our writers know how to explore for newness in the familiar. In “Life, Still Full of Magic,” writer Morgan Tilton samples the new normal with a mountain bike ride near her home in Crested Butte. She reminds us of the lightness beyond the heaviness of a global pandemic. “The whole process is uncharted and messy,” she writes, “but it starts with a mountain bike ride in this sacred expanse.”
Jenny Johnston takes us far and away from crowds in our Hidden Gems department. In “Seeing is Believing,” a story about out-of-theway spectacles, she writes, “perhaps there is no better time to reflect on space and no better place than the middle of nowhere to realize that the empty void is actually full.” Our veterans carry burdens that most of us can’t know. Burdens on top of the coronavirus. Veteran and writer Josh Jespersen gathers fellow veterans in the mountains to face the present and talk about how war affected them. “This summer, as long as COVID-19 releases its grip on society,” he writes, “I plan to take another group of veterans on an escape to ease their pain. An escape to provide long-term healing from what I’m guessing won’t just be past conflicts this time, but also a global pandemic.” We hope this issue inspires you to explore your own paths back to the outdoors during this historic event. And with gusto!
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OPENING SHOT
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Nicholas Randall drops into Osprey Alley at Phil’s World outside Cortez, Colorado. photo by Terrance Siemon
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O U T D O O R V I TA L S
ROCK FALL by
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LIS McLAUGHLIN
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
Gravity, our most consistent adventure partner ››
Even the smallest rock let loose from above is dangerous to anyone positioned in the fall line. Learn to recognize the potential danger of rockfall, both natural and human-caused.
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ROCK FALL
Rockfall is just one of many accepted risks of venturing into the mountains. Rockfall can be a single boulder careening down a cliff or a mass movement of rock falling down a steep slope. And rockfall can have either a natural or engineered cause. MOTHER NATURE AT WORK Cliff or hillside erosion is the means by which Mother Nature exfoliates. This natural process can become hazardous should an outdoor recreationalist stand in the way of a tumbling boulder or sliding cascade of rock, but also under a block cleaned by a lead climber or a rock kicked loose from a mountaineer on a ledge above. Understanding why and how rocks fall can help the aspiring adventurer avoid either triggering or encountering one of these dangerous rock movements. HEAT AND RAIN Heat and rain are major contributors to rock falls, causing or facilitating the natural physical and chemical weather of rock layers. A report by Yosemite National Park geologists indicates rain accounts for about 29% of rockfall. Temperature fluctuation, especially heating, is the main culprit. The freeze-thaw cycles of seasonal changes, the hot sun-kissed days to chilly nights and the monsoon storms of the Southwest summer, contribute to physical weathering of mountain geology. Temperature fluctuations expand and compress rock, resulting in the loosening and fracturing of the outer layers. Rock itself is a poor heat conductor. When heated, only the surface of the rock is affected while the core remains cool. This cycle of heating and cooling causes the outermost layers to expand with the 10 |
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heat and contract when cooled, amassing stress known as thermal fatigue. Thermal fatigue causes stress between constituting mineral crystals resulting in fragmentation known as “granular disaggregation.” The resulting stress fractures break and weaken the rock from its connection point at the cliff.
CHEMICAL WEATHERING Weather and seasonal changes also contribute to chemical weathering. Rocks are comprised of minerals. The constituent minerals can have a chemical reaction with oxygen, whether from the air, water from summer storms or snowmelt. A change in the chemical composition of the rock can cause stress between the mineral crystals, which, when temperature fluctuation again comes into play, promotes fragmentation, fracturing and exfoliation of the outermost rock layers. OTHER FACTORS With the outermost rock layers vulnerable to weathering, mass movements can be triggered by seismic activity, lightning, erosion of surrounding materials during a heavy rainstorm, root growth, extreme wind and more. THE HUMAN FACTOR Accepting risk is part of the necessary exchange for enjoying our wondrous planet. Rockfalls will happen. With a bit of knowledge, however, one can help minimize the risk of a great day turned calamitous.
Wherever you venture, avoid or be extremely cautious in areas where other rockfalls have obviously occurred. When rocks falls occur, they accumulate at the base of a cliff, chute, or slope. A talus pile, especially one at the base of a steep slope, indicates that the area below the slope may not be safe for recreation. Watch the weather. Rain makes rock material less cohesive by reducing friction between cracks. It also contributes weight and volume to the overall mass, and thus increasing the gravitational force of the slope itself. Be alert while adventuring during the summer monsoon seasons, watching for signs of rockfall. If you are new to adventuring, it is prudent to go with someone who can assess the safety the situation. Some cliffs are safer than others. Shorter cliffs have less rock material and therefore less rockfall potential, and longer cliffs have more rockfall potential. In keeping to that logic, a cliff with more overhang has more unstable rock material – more pull of gravity upon unsupported rock — than a cliff with less overhang. For climbers and mountaineers, wearing a helmet could save your skull. Always be on the lookout for weathered rock. Assess all questionable blocks, whether rock climbing or ascending a ridge. Pull down rather than out on blocks. Should you happen to pull a block loose, give a warning cry to anyone who may be below.
ENGINEERED CAUSES Trundling is the practice of throwing loose rock from a cliff or loosening a boulder to watch it cascade down a slope. Climbers are in the habit of removing bits of bad rock to lessen the risk of a larger accident occurring later. In climbing areas of our region, unlike, say, Yosemite, the climber isn’t thousands of feet above ground. With a good view, the climber can generally control where to safely toss the loose rock to where it will not threaten the safety of anyone below. The blatantly irresponsible trundle is to loosen a boulder to watch it bounce down a slope. There’s no controlling that. Either way, the practice could result in injury or fatality should someone stand in the path of the falling rock. Stay safe and enjoy the next adventure with perhaps a little more knowledge than before. LIS McLAUGHLIN is an outdoor enthusiast and freelance writer based in Durango, Colorado. A Fort Lewis graduate and humble student of philosophy, she balances her free time with writing, reading, fitness, and appreciating the beauty of nature.
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Kaitlyn Alexander climbs in a remote area above Paradox Valley. photo by Terrance Siemon
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COLORADO’S WEST END
A Treasure of Isolation & Recreation
A
This rich vein of recreation could
At the onset of the pandemic, when Moab locked its doors and closed shop, the mining communities desert rats were turned away. Some went home. Others traveled elsewhere. Lucas Johnson first noticed them in Paradox Valley, on routes that typically attract a handful of climbers throughout the year. Deana Sheriff saw tents and campervans cropping up on the public lands near Naturita and Nucla. Trailheads were suddenly crowded by local standards: more than one or two cars. By now, we know that pandemic recreation in rural areas was ill-advised, but for better or worse, it did introduce new outdoor enthusiasts to Colorado’s Canyon Country. And local advocates hope by MARGARET HEDDERMAN they’ll keep coming. The West End of Montrose County is marked by twisting red rock canyons and distant mountain ranges. It’s a dry and tumultuous landscape with an equally wild history of outlaws, utopian socialists and miners. It comprises the communities of Nucla, Naturita and the now abandoned town of Uravan, which became a Superfund Site in the 1980s. Two rivers – the San Miguel and the Dolores – cut through this remote region, and over 600 miles of old exploration roads crisscross the landscape, offering endless mountain biking and hiking opportunities. With four seasons of prime recreation weather, and vast tracks of public land ranging in elevation from 4,500 to 9,500 feet, it’s hard to believe this area hasn’t been discovered.
transform former
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Exploring an old uranium road in the Dry Creek gorge. photo by West End Trail Alliance Daredevil riding high above the Dolores River. photo by Jarrod Fast
Negotiating the narrow trail on Horse Bench high above the Paradox Valley. photo by West End Trail Alliance
“We have not promoted this area,” said Sheriff, the Executive Director of the West End Economic Development Corporation. “Historically this area was developed around the Manhattan Project and that era of secrecy has remained through the generations out here.” The region was founded by farmers in the late 1800s, but is defined by its mining history. Uranium brought a wealth of money and new families to the area, but when its market price tanked in the 1980s, hundreds of mines closed. Coal helped bring a resurgence to the area, but recently Tri-State Generation and Transmission Association announced the mine and power plant would close by 2022. Now, locals are looking toward outdoor recreation − as well as the area’s inherent solitude − to revitalize the economy. For years, the old mining roads and trails were mostly accessed by local mountain bikers, hikers and hunters. There weren’t maps or guidebooks to help newcomers explore the area. But a few years ago the West End Trails Alliance (WETA) was formed to promote mountain biking and hiking opportunities in the area. 14 |
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Now, locals are looking toward outdoor recreation − as well as the area’s inherent solitude − to revitalize the economy.
Looking south from the east rim above the Dolores River. The San Miguel River confluence and Naturita are upriver from here. photo by Jan Nesset
“It's a very unique part of Colorado, geologically, we have some of the most beautiful terrain you've ever seen,” said longtime resident Paul Koski. “That's what has kept me here for 40 years − the vast amount of public lands out here.” Koski helped found WETA and is largely responsible for the development of the Paradox Trail, a 110-mile mountain biking trail that links two other long distance routes − the Tabeguache Trail and the Kokopelli Trail – into the 360mile circuit known as the Grand Loop. Through its inventory of local trails, WETA has produced an abbreviated online catalog of hiking and mountain biking opportunities in the area. Maps are now available in local shops and hotels, and the organization is working to produce signage on the more popular trails. Despite efforts to make recreation more accessible to visitors, the West End is still largely undeveloped. According to Lucas Johnson, Nucla’s “resident climber” as Koski refers to him, adventuring is still an adventure out here. “Every time the river turns, there’s a band of Dakota sandstone along the rim,” Johnson said. “They’re pretty much all tackled and climbed.”
The isolation paired with limited cell phone service and low population density demands a level of self-sufficiency and experience. In a world of pre-programmed adventure, that’s particularly attractive to a certain subset of travelers Dry Creek Gorge at the extreme West End incline. photo by West End Trail Alliance
North buttress of Nyswonger Mesa above the Paradox Valley. photo by West End Trail Alliance
Many of the bolted routes are older and Johnson acknowledges that some people “blanche” at the hardware. However, he points to the numerous trad routes, as well as the boulders strewn along the main highway which offer a variety of grades. “The bouldering here along 141, all the way down the Gateway Canyon is incredible,” Johnson said. “It’s very van-livable.” Most of the routes are on Mountain Project, or if you can get your hands on a copy, Charlie Fowler and Damon Johnston’s out-of-print The Wild Wild West. Comparing recreation in the West End to the Wild West is kind of appropriate. The isolation paired with limited cell phone service and low population density demands a level of self-sufficiency and experience. In a world of pre-programmed adventure, that’s particularly attractive to a certain subset of travelers. “We’re redeveloping our brand around being isolated,” Sheriff said. “You can be out here for 12 days and never see another person.” Promoting isolation feels like a self-defeating endeavor, but Sheriff said it’s unlikely the West End will see
Descending the rough trail off Nyswonger Mesa above Bedrock, Colorado. photo by West End Trail Alliance
unreasonable growth as it’s difficult to access and doesn’t have major attractions like national parks. “I frequently hear ‘don’t turn us into Moab,’” Sheriff said. “I think our growth is going to be really slow just because we aren’t going to be able to attract that international market.” Even so, outdoor recreation and tourism appear to be having an effect. A new glamping park and a bed and breakfast are set to open this summer, and a few outdoor businesses are already catering to the small, yet growing number of visitors. “Any activity is going to help,” Koski said. “We are small towns. We don’t need a huge influx of people to really impact our local economy.” MARGARET HEDDERMAN writes about the environment, outdoor recreation, and travel. Based in Boulder, Colorado, her work has also appeared in Nowhere Magazine, Sierra, and has been nominated for The Best American Travel Writing series.
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Nikon D800 focal length 24mm iso 1600 exposure 30sec aperture f/2.8 camera
BEHIND THE LENS
Nikon D800 focal length 14mm iso 200 exposure 1/400 aperture f/4
camera
RIO GRANDE GORGE While on an Adventure Pro shoot in the Rio Grande Gorge near Taos, New Mexico, I got busy shooting a climber who was tackling some interesting bouldering problems near the rim of the gorge. Looking for a dramatic composition to show the steepness of the terrain over the Rio Grande River, I positioned myself above the climber. Anticipating that he would use this hold once he arrived at the top of the climb, I settled into place and waited. I framed the hold to be in the foreground and put the focus on the background. It worked!
by
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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
M OT I O N BLU R Creating movement is a fun technique that can add life to an action shot. You achieve a photo with movement by setting the focus point on the subject and keeping the camera trained on the subject at a slow shutter speed. The key is to keep the focus point (the subject) in that sharp field of view as the camera moves in sync with the subject. For this photograph I set the shutter speed to 1/80 of a second, which is extremely slow for action photos. I panned my camera across the trail with the mountain biker as she rode through the frame. The goal is to match the pan of the camera to the speed of the rider. If successful the rider stays in focus and the background streaks, giving it the motion blur due to the longer exposure. (It always takes a few tries.)
O U R AY L I G H TS While descending into Ouray for the day to take photography for an Adventure Pro feature on the town and the ice park, I noticed this scene and liked the composure of the switchback in the foreground. I kept the image in mind, thinking that a nighttime photo could be a good visual representation of the town. After shooting photographs around town, I returned to the spot to get a timelapse image. The conditions were perfect when I arrived, just as I had hoped. I used a long exposure so the shutter could be open the entire duration of a car driving the switchback. The lights of the town, the streak of light from the car and the stars speckling above combined to put life into this photo.
Sony a7iii focal length 16mm iso 1250 exposure 1/80 aperture f/4 camera
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DERIVING STRENGTH FROM MORE THAN
MOUNTAINS BY
How all of us can revive excitement for the future by reliving the past
I
I am parked in a high desert town getting grub and gas to drive into the alpine and over a high mountain pass. My thoughts are convoluted and I am anything but present as I sit in my car staring down the lonely dusty street. I work around uncertainty while maintaining constant motion across landscapes all the time, but it has never taken my whole life hostage like this ugly pandemic. I’m so lost looking toward the future and trying to find a way to keep my head above water. Then, my phone rings. I see who is calling, and I already know this is going
On the summit with the flag bearing the names in memory of fallen service members. photo by Dustin Kisling
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JOSH JESPERSEN
to be a tough pill to swallow. “Hey J.J., do you have a minute? I need to tell you something.” Reluctantly, I ask, “What’s going on?” In the softening of her voice I can hear the hesitation a person goes through when they don’t want to say something. I can also tell she is locked into a distant stare. “He is in …,” a pause. Then she continues, her voice cracking. “He is in hospice now and they won’t let me see him anymore.” After I hang up the phone, I let the news sink in and my mind transitions to the past. My dear friend, a man I looked up to as a mentor while I was in the military, and a figure of such strong stature, has entered the final stage of his 16-year battle with cancer. I think back to all the hard lessons he taught me, and how he epitomized the term grit. I hear a pounding knock in the background of my mind. I am banging on his door in Baghdad to wake him for a mission briefing. I was always amazed he could keep pace with all of us in war, especially knowing he was then four years into this drawn-out battle of his own. Just two years ago, I got him to sign up for a trip I run every summer with wounded veterans in Wyoming. To my surprise, I did not recognize him as he was pushed toward me in a wheelchair through the Jackson Hole Airport. I realized in that moment after not seeing him for a couple years that the war he waged personally might not have the same outcome as the war we survived together.
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Memorializing and honoring a fallen friend by adding his name to the flag. photo by Dustin Kisling
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Walking the Glacier Trail to high camp. photo by Josh Jespersen
Author Josh Jesperson adding a name to the flag to be carried to the summit. photo by Dustin Kisling
This trip to ride horses into the Fitzpatrick Wilderness and climb Gannet Peak, the highest peak in Wyoming, is how I still serve my fellow veterans. I have been doing this type of work since I got out of the service eight years ago, and I have learned a lot in that time. In these types of experiences, veterans are frequently encouraged to talk about how war affected them. The injuries I have seen span a scale from visually horrific to completely invisible. For some veterans, missing two legs below the knee barely affects their everyday life. For others, a daily debilitating headache has, at times, crippled their existence. I would come to realize, however, that
Crossing the bergschrund on the Gooseneck Glacier. photo by Josh Jespersen 20 |
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
for each of the veterans, this discussion would pull them out of the present moment and cause them look with unease toward the future - to wonder how they would carry on. I made a decision when I started putting this trip on by myself to change the topic of these discussions and shift the focus away from each veterans’ own ailments. Instead, we would talk about our friends who did not make it home. We memorialized them by telling their stories. I hold a ceremony each trip the night before summit day while we are camped above the terminal moraines and below the desiccated and dying glaciers of the Wind River Range. During these moments, each veteran in turn stands by an American flag that is draped over a boulder and tells everyone a story. The story that may be happy, sad, filled with bravery or echoed by rib-breaking laughter. One by one we hear about the last time they drank with a friend who was killed. Each oration is capped by the inscription of the friend’s name onto the flag, joining the other stains of freedom already inscribed in the red, white and blue fabric. This method pulls the veterans out of the present and, instead of pushing them to look toward the future with anticipation, they are able to revive their excitement by reliving the past.
Stopping for a quick break on the way to Dinwoody Base Camp (AKA Cowboy Camp). photo by Didrik Johnck
Stetter Outfitters packing gear into Cowboy Camp. photo by Dustin Kisling
While I was loading my friend out of the wheelchair and into the car for the drive over Togwotee Pass and onto a ranch in Crowheart where we stage for the journey, I understood he would not make it out of the mountains if he rode in due to his condition. I had to leave him at the ranch to be taken care of by the old Army Special Forces guy who owns the spread. The rest of us would carry on into the wilderness to leave the weight of our everyday lives at the trailhead. In the wilderness we could immerse our headspace between the high peaks, walking up glacially carved valleys along the silty, rushing and bitter cold creeks. During that trip’s ceremony, I shared a story about my friend. I watched as the vets began to understand who that man they saw on oxygen used to be, but I did not write his name down as he still breathed. This summer, as long as COVID-19 releases its grip on society, I plan to take another group of veterans on an escape to ease their pain. An escape to provide long-term healing from what I’m guessing won’t just be past conflicts this time, but also a global pandemic. When I do, I may have to actually write down my friend’s name. I am not looking to that assumed but inevitable moment with trepidation, however.
In the wilderness we could immerse our headspace between the high peaks, walking up glacially carved valleys along the silty, rushing and bitter cold creeks. Instead, I take solace in knowing I will once again be able to tell his story. I will once again be able to make people understand that though these mighty figures may fall, their influence on us will persist and the mountain of strength derived from them will drive us forward during any times in our life spent toiling with uncertainty, no matter what it is that impresses the hardship.
JOSH JESPERSON is the president of Veteran's Outdoor Advocacy Group, which lobbies for prescribed outdoor therapy for veterans and seeks to train and employ veterans to work in outdoor settings as guides of all forms. Josh is releasing his story/guidebook Journey Lines about his own path in the mountains in the fall, and hopes that anyone reading it will become advocates for public land and climate.
Flying the flag in remembrance high above Stetter Outfitters Dinwoody Base Camp (Cowboy Camp). photo by Josh Jespersen
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GallupRealTrue.com GALLUP WELCOMES YOU Be assured we’re following safety guidelines to keep everyone in our unique Route 66 community safe and healthy.
Roof top dining · Inquire about private parties Award-winning wine list · Delicious local cuisine
First Place Best Romantic Dinner Second Place Best Fine Dining Second Place Best Happy Hour Second Place Best Restaurant Second Place Best Steak
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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
From ‘farm to table’ and ‘vine to wine’, Eolus Bar & Dining offers the finest menu selections from Southwest Colorado’s bounty of farms, ranches, vineyards, and breweries. Our historic dining room provides a comfortable, mountain elegant setting with tabletop and booth seating. Our covered rooftop patio presents premium views of the surrounding mountains for our guests, as well as private parties. Eolus Bar & Dining is a distinct Durango establishment where guests are invited to relax and enjoy locally-inspired cuisine, wine, and other craft beverages.
919 Main Ave, Durango CO | www.eolusdurango.com | (970) 259-2898 Open Tuesday - Saturday 5pm–9pm | Reservations required
C A L E N DA R NEW MEXICO
ARIZONA
COLORADO
UTAH
JULY 10 - 11 Red River Mountain Brew Bash RED RIVER www.redriver.org
JULY 4 Arizona Celebration of Freedom Drive-In Fireworks Show MESA www.azcelebrationoffreedom.org
JULY 24 - 26 Underground Music Showcase Something 2020 DENVER www.undergroundmusicshowcase.com
JULY 18 Rage at Snowbird SNOWBIRD www.intermountaincup.com
JULY 18 Beethoven 5K Race FLAGSTAFF www.athlinks.com/event/ beethoven-5k-329042
AUG. 7 - 9 Escalante Days & Dolores Mountain Bike Race DOLORES www.doloresrace.com
JULY 25 Hotfoot Hamster BUCKEYE www.aravaiparunning.com/ hotfoot-hamster
SEPT. 11 - 12 Steamboat Oktoberwest STEAMBOAT SPRINGS www.steamboatoktoberwest.com
JULY 11 AREZZONA CHANDLER www.relentlessbeats.com AUG. 1 Red River High Mountain Half Marathon & 5K RED RIVER www.redriver.org AUG. 1 - 2 New Mexico Beer & Food Festival: Panza Llena SANTA FE www.festivalnet.com AUG. 8 Fortieth Summer Arts & Crafts Fair LOS ALAMOS www.festivalnet.com AUG. 12 - 15 Red River's 8750' Music & BBQ Festival RED RIVER www.redriver.org AUG. 31 - SEPT. 8 Fiesta de Santa Fe SANTA FE www.santafefiesta.org SEPT. 10 - 20 New Mexico State Fair ALBUQUERQUE www.statefair.exponm.com SEPT. 25 - 27 Red River Folk Festival at Aspencade RED RIVER www.redriver.org OCT. 10 New Mexico Brew Fest ALBUQUERQUE www.nmbrewfest.com
AUG. 22 Arizona Fried Chicken and Wings Festival PHOENIX www.visitarizona.com SEPT. 4 - 6 Hoco Fest TUCSON www.hocofest.com SEPT. 5 - 7 Flagstaff Art in the Park Labor Day Show FLAGSTAFF www.visitarizona.com SEPT. 19 Fire on the Rim PINE www.fireontherim.com SEPT. 19 Barn Burner FLAGSTAFF www.barnburnermtb.com
SEPT. 12 Mt. Crested Butte Chili and Beer Festival CRESTED BUTTE www.cbchamber.com SEPT. 12 - 13 Desert’s Edge Triathlon Festival LOMA www.bicyclecolorado.org SEPT. 18 - 20 Telluride Blues & Brews Festival TELLURIDE www.tellurideblues.com OCT. 11 - 13 Breckenridge Oktoberfest BRECKENRIDGE www.gobreck.com
AUG. 7 - 8 Abajo Enduro MONTICELLO www.roamutah.com/abajoenduro AUG. 31 - SEPT. 17 Moab Music Festival MOAB www.moabmusicfest.org SEPT. 6 Gran Fondo Moab MOAB www.granfondomoab.com SEPT. 24 - 27 Mother Of All Boogies MOAB www.motherofallboogies.com OCT. 2 - 4 Outerbike MOAB www.outerbike.com/moab-2020 OCT. 29 - NOV. 1 Moab Ho Down Mountain Bike Festival MOAB www.moabhodown.com
As of this writing the events listed here are scheduled. However, numerous annual events across the Southwest have been canceled or tentatively scheduled as an attempt to reduce the spread of COVID-19. Always check ahead before traveling to an event.
OCT. 10 Bike the Bluff SHOW LOW www.raceplace.com
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So you want to become a
SPONSORED
ATHLETE? TIPS FROM THE PROS. WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW. BY
NANCY PRICHARD BOUCHARD
I’ve been an athlete all my life. But the decade I enjoyed as a professional climber, and the five years I directed the athlete team for the climbing and mountain biking brand, Five Ten, were some of the most educational and fulfilling.
B
Being a sponsored climber and athlete director taught me that there’s more to being a professional than competing at a high level or putting up a first ascent. In addition to talent, training, perseverance and a bit of luck, skills like communication, marketing, public relations and being a good role model all come into play. LEARNING CURVE As a professional or “sponsored” climber, I was able to travel the world. I had the opportunity to be in advertisements, appear on TV shows and give presentations to schools, climbing teams and the Girl Scouts of America at the group’s annual conference. A lot of good came out of being a professional athlete. In addition to getting paid to practice a sport I loved, I got to share a rope with some of the world’s best rock and ice climbers at the time, including Jeff Lowe, Ron Kauk, Patrick Edlinger, Dean Potter, Alex Lowe and many others. I met my husband, the alpinist and paragliding pioneer, John Bouchard, when we were both in the ice climbing competition at the first Winter X-Games.
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I had great adventures and some scary ones, like the time I got hit with falling ice in Cody, Wyoming, or having a big flake of rock let loose in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. To add insult to near-injury, I returned from that escapade with a head-to-toe case of poison ivy. One thing I learned is that climbing for a photo or film can be a lot more dangerous than just climbing for pleasure. I learned valuable lessons about myself, like how to handle both success and defeat. Winning a competition is a heady experience, as is success on a coveted climb or boulder problem. But I learned a lot more about myself when I didn't win or succeed. That's when you have to dig deep and reflect on why you're in the sport in the first place. Is it love of sport, or something else? Maintaining that balance and perspective can be a complicated equation. PROFESSIONAL PERKS The best part of being sponsored was getting paid to do what I loved. Sure, there were days when I didn't want to train, but most of the time, it felt like being a student and getting paid to go out for recess.
photo by
Mark Going
JON CARDWELL
{CLIMBER} BOULDER, COLORADO
Cardwell lives in Boulder, Colorado. While he’s seen plenty of podiums, his real calling is exploring and developing new climbing areas in places like South America, Turkey, Europe and China. He has multiple 9a (5.14d) ascents under his belt, and when he’s not climbing, he teaches climbing and coaches a youth team at his local climbing gym.
“Probably the most important component in becoming sponsored, is once your achievements have been recognized, maintain a genuine respect and love for climbing. It is, after all, what got you there in the first place. Never lose track of what’s most important. People will notice.”
Over the years, I’ve worked with many brands as an athlete, consultant and spokesperson. Perhaps the most important thing I’ve learned is how to be a professional – no matter how big or small the financial reward. Some brands provided me with equipment; others offered a monthly stipend. Being paid to climb was a new thing, and there wasn’t a roadmap for the athlete/brand relationship when I started out. I was lucky. I loved to climb. My success with competitions (this was early in the climbing competition scene) helped me to not only attract the attention of a variety of outdoor brands, but also media.
photo by
photo by
Oman UTMB
MEREDITH EDWARDS {ULTRA-RUNNER} JACKSON, WYOMING
Edwards is an elite ultra-runner who lives in Jackson, Wyoming. She has podium finishes at the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc TDS race, the Javelina Jundred 100K and the Flagstaff Skyrace 55K. She is also a member of the U.S. Ski Mountaineering Team. “I made the mistake of not believing in myself more when it came to contracts. I was always scared I was asking for too much when really I was asking for what I was worth and deserved. As a female in the industry it's hard. It's not as equal as I would like to see it, but some of that is because I was scared to ask for my full value. I know I'm not the only female who has done this or feel that way. We need to be proud and stand our ground.”
I parlayed my skill set into becoming an editor for Rock and Ice (I studied journalism in college), and then moved into other editing and freelance jobs. I used the dollars I made from competitions, as well as TV and movie gigs and athlete sponsorship to fund a doctorate in history. OTHER OPPORTUNITIES Eventually, I decided that I had other interests than just climbing hard; I segued from being a sponsored athlete to doing more consulting work with outdoor brands. Five Ten, my biggest sponsor at the time, wanted to keep me with the company, so I developed a public relations program for them. Back then, most outdoor companies didn’t have a PR or
photo by
Mark Going
CASSIE SHARPE
DJ BRANDT
{SNOW-BOARDER} VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Sharpe took Gold in the 2018 Winter Olympics in the halfpipe. The Vancouver, British Columbia-based athlete took home the X Games Aspen gold in 2019, and two Crystal Globe titles for halfpipe (2018 and 2019). She won Bronze in the Ski Super Pipe at the 2020 Aspen X Games after coming back from a training concussion.
{MOUNTAIN BIKER} DENVER, COLORADO
Brandt is a professional slopestyle mountain bike rider who is based in Denver, Colorado. While he’s best known for his dirt jumping expertise, he also rides a lot of freestyle terrain.
“I worked my butt off to make it to the Olympics and win. What they don't tell you or prepare you for is the whirlwind of interviews, cameras in your face and so many people congratulating you wanting to hear your stories and share theirs. I love that part of the job. I love people and socializing, but I can imagine for some people that's not their cup of tea!”
The most important thing I’ve learned is how to be a professional – no matter how big or small the financial reward.
Tim DaCosta
“Have fun, and never forget the reason you started riding. Just remember why you started and how much fun you had riding, and don’t let it get ruined by being your job. If you are freaking out to make a sponsor happy, or freaking out about a competition, then you won’t perform as well for anyone. Having a personality is a lot better than fitting into a cookie cutter mold.”
communications director; so in many ways, the job itself was an adventure. When I took over as the brand’s athlete director, one of the first things I did was start a series of “Athlete Summits.” I’d always recognized the benefit of education and realized that many athletes put college on the backburner so they can focus on sports. These professional development seminars helped with team building, but they also gave athletes tools to become better at their jobs. We would spend time with the brand’s designers and sales staff so that athletes could have more fluidity when talking about specific products. There was always a presentation on brand history, key technologies, and of course, performance advantages of specific models. This is important
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photo by
photo by
Mark Going
ALEX FERREIRA
JASON SCHLARB
Ferreira is on the U.S. Pro-Half Pipe Team. He lives in Aspen, Colorado, when he’s not traveling the world competing and training. He’s won back-to-back X-Game gold medals in the Super-Pipe and an Olympic Silver in the 2018 Winter Games.
Schlarb lives in the San Juan Mountains near Durango, Colorado. Among his racing accomplishments, he has shared a victory in the Hardrock 100 with Kilian Jornet. When not traveling the world racing and exploring with partner Jeremy Wolf, Schlarb skis crazy projects (like the Hardrock 100 in winter!) and races all around Colorado and the west.
{SKIER} ASPEN, COLORADO
“If I could have changed one thing in the earlier days of my career, I would have started deeply believing in myself at a much younger age. Anything is possible, you just have to firmly believe that for it to come true.”
{ULTRA-RUNNER} DURANGO, COLORADO
“There can only be a few "best" athletes in most experiential sports, especially in trail running. Personality and involvement, will often edge out raw talent in the modern world of experiential professional athletics today.”
because in many ways, athletes are the front line for the sales team. They are the “boots on the ground.” In sports like climbing, mountain biking, BASE jumping or wingsuit flying, equipment really does make a difference. And athletes have to trust that gear in order to perform at a high level. But there’s a vocabulary needed in order to convey that message to the public. The second component of the Athlete Summit was providing athletes with professional development. At one Summit, Jimmy Chin (now the academy-award winning photographer for the movie Free Solo), gave a seminar on how athletes could better work with photographers. Lynn Hill led a seminar on how to interact with sponsors and put the “professional” into professional athlete. Dean Potter talked about staying true to yourself while also meeting the marketing expectations required by a brand. But perhaps my favorite lecture was given by Sally Jewell, then CEO of REI, who would go on to be Secretary of the Interior under President Obama. Sally talked about how athletes could and should “give back” by getting involved with local, national and global environmental efforts. Sally spoke about athletes being role models and using their fame to encourage others to 26 |
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photo by
Meredith Edwards
Red Bull
JT HOLMES
{EXTREME SPORTS ATHLETE} SQUAW VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
Holmes is an extreme sport athlete. He’s a long-time big mountain skier, B.A.S.E. jumper, wingsuit pilot and movie stuntman (to name just a few of his career accomplishments). He’s been in countless films, and lately has been helping to develop the sport of speedriding. His home area is Squaw Valley. “Gain reference points of your value. Do right by the companies that support you by performing on every word of your agreement.”
make the world a better place. These presentations gave our athletes tools to become more effective ambassadors. The addition of professional development made a huge difference with Five Ten (Brand of the Brave). So big, in fact, that apparel and footwear powerhouse Adidas bought the brand, a move that elevated climbing and mountain bike athletes to the global stage. THE RIGHT FIT How do brands and athletes decide to work together? At Five Ten, I’d work with different levels of ambassadors. There were those who received a monthly paycheck. Others were on performance-based bonus systems, others received gear and could apply for travel stipends if they had an intriguing proposal. But out of the thousands of applications I fielded each year, only a fraction were a good fit for the various teams. So, how did I make the choices as to who would get free gear, who would get a stipend or salary, and who we’d have to say no to? Here are a few ideas on what it takes to be a professional athlete, why brands select one athlete over another, and how athletes can step up to ensure fruitful, long-term partnerships.
01
ALWAYS BELIEVE IN THE BRANDS YOU SUPPORT In any community or industry, but especially those as small as mountain biking and climbing, people pay attention. To be effective, you have to use the products you are touting, and believe in the brands you represent. This means that it’s not just about money. Athletes who jump from brand to brand according to who will pay top dollar lose credibility fast.
02
ALWAYS SPEAK THE TRUTH In sports, like life, you are only as good as your word. Self-promotion can be a slippery slope as there’s a fine line between telling one’s story and bragging. Many athletes make the misstep of making implausible claims. Before you claim a “first” or being the “best,” make sure you understand the history of your sport. If you always stick to the facts when reporting your achievements, you’ll earn respect from your community and beyond.
03
PLAY TO YOUR OWN SKILL SET Every person has strengths that go beyond sport. Some athletes look particularly good on camera, others have that magical ability to connect with the public. Others are good writers and can bring their worlds alive through words. Know your strengths. When you are negotiating with a brand about sponsorship, make sure you’ve done your homework in analyzing what you can and like to do.
04
KNOW THE BRANDS YOU WORK WITH Whether you are pitching a brand about a potential partnership or already working as a sponsored athlete, make sure you do your homework. Spend time learning the history of the brand you are approaching. Know the names of the key players and key products. If you work with a brand, you are part of a team, so understanding everything about the team makes you a more valuable player.
05
SPONSORSHIP IS A TWO-WAY STREET To evoke President John F. Kennedy's famous quote, it’s not just about what the brand can do for you, but what you can do for the brand. Being a sponsored athlete is more than just getting a check in return for a specific expertise or performance. Individuals who are true professionals realize that there’s more to the job than just staying fit and winning competitions.
NANCY PRICHARD BOUCHARD, PH.D. has worked for Five Ten, the climbing and mountain bike shoe brand, for the past 30 years. An avid climber, skier, stand-up paddle boarder and former X-Games competitor, Bouchard holds a Ph.D. in U.S. history from the University of Colorado. In addition to writing for Adventure Pro, Bouchard contributes to Men's Journal and Outside. photo by Red Bull
To be effective, you have to use the products you are touting, and believe in the brands you represent.
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HIDDEN GEMS
If one picture is worth a thousand words, here’s one explanation of how Crested Butte became the “Official Wildflower Capital of Colorado.” photo by Wouter Van Tiel 28 |
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
SE E I NG I S
BELIEVING APPRECIATING A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON ADVENTURE IN THE FOUR CORNERS by
››
JENNY JOHN STON
The Colorado Plateau is home to some of the country’s most superlative features. Be it the tallest, longest, highest, oldest or most, adventure seekers have limitless opportunities to explore. While beauty can be found dispersed out our back doors, some of the most spectacular adventures are best appreciated with some space between you and the crowds. While large-scale gatherings are avoided during the COVID-19 pandemic, these adventures across the region offer explorers the opportunity to take a step back – away from crowds – to take in nature’s scale and majesty.
A SPECTACULAR DISPLAY OF COLORADO WILDFLOWERS CRESTED BUTTE If you have an appreciation for wildflowers, head to Crested Butte this summer for the most spectacular display of wildflowers. Crested Butte is the “Official Wildflower Capital of Colorado” for good reason: the mountains come alive in summer with a palate of colors. Numerous loop hikes await for all skill levels, providing an unrivaled visual experience not to be missed. The wildflowers are worth a visit with or without a festival, but Crested Butte has an annual festival
UTAH'S OLDEST ROCKY MOUNTAIN JUNIPER LOGAN CANYON
devoted to the wildflowers. In its 34th year, the Crested Butte Wildflower Festival is currently scheduled for July 10-19. The annual tradition offers a variety of wildflower-based programs, from guided hikes and art workshops to photography and culinary experiences. As of this writing the festival is still scheduled but due to COVID-19 concerns the number of events has been reduced. For updates and to purchase tickets visit www.crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.org.
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Estimated at over 1,500 years old, a Rocky Mountain juniper tree located in Utah's Logan Canyon in the Cache National Forest is believed to be the oldest living tree of its species. Standing firm about 5 miles up the 11-mile Jardine Juniper Trail, the Old Jardine Juniper reaches over 40 feet and has a 23-foot circumference. The reward for ascending more than 2,000 feet to find the gnarled and weathered tree is a peaceful experience along an uncrowded trail. The tree stands as a stark image against the ridgeline and canyon below, having survived everything Mother Nature and multiple civilizations have thrown its way. The ancient juniper stands as a wonderful reminder that perseverance is beautiful and that the stories embedded in one old tree can make a difference thousands of years later. At 1,500 years old, the Jardine Juniper was around long before the colonization of America. photo by Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest S U M M E R 2 0 2 0
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COLORADO'S WILD MUSTANGS SPRING CREEK BASIN It’s easy to conjure up images of horses when you think of Colorado’s rich history. Remnants of the state’s storied Wild West, wild horses still roam freely in the southwest corner of the state. Maintained by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), four herd management areas (HMA) range over 400,000 acres in southwest Colorado. While these BLM areas will require a bit of effort to reach, this most wild adventure is absolutely worth it. The Spring Creek Basin HMA, located
in Disappointment Valley between Norwood and Dove Creek, provides wild mustangs nearly 22,000 acres to run free. According to the BLM, “legend says that in the early 1900s, a Montana rancher came to Disappointment Valley with a herd of stolen horses that he raised to sell to the U.S. Cavalry and other groups. When the law began to close in on him, he gathered some of his horses and quickly left the area. Local ranchers managed the remaining horses by culling undesirable horses
and adding their own stock, and now the BLM manages the herd under the Wild Free-Roaming Horse and Burro Act of 1971.” Despite the name of the valley they roam, this experience doesn’t disappoint! While wild horses may not drag you away, they will certainly beckon you back. From inner peace seekers to photography junkies, the wild mustangs provide a visual wonderland and a spiritual experience when viewed in their natural splendor.
A herd of wild mustangs running free in the Spring Creek Basin Herd Management Area in southwest Colorado. photo courtesy Jerry Sintz
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BIGGEST ›› ARIZONA'S FOOTPRINTS TUBA CITY
Dinosaur tracks are frequently a roadside attraction, but if you truly want to walk in the footsteps of these giants you need to get off the beaten path, away from the museums and crowds, and step back into time onto the Moenkopi Dinosaur Tracks. Located just west of Tuba City on the Navajo Nation (look for a primitive hand-painted sign on the side of Highway 160), the trail offers hikers to truly follow in some giant footsteps! More of a walking experience than a true hike, this 30-minute stroll along the sandstone allows adventure seekers to walk in footprints 200 million years old. You’ll also see fossils, including turtle eggs, and some purported dinosaur poop await!
A set of dinosaur tracks in the Jurassic Moenave Formation at the Moenkopi Dinosaur Tracks. photo by United States Geological Survey Staff
COLORADO'S TALLEST WATERFALLS PAGOSA SPRINGS
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While Bridal Veil Falls near Telluride has the record as Colorado’s tallest free-falling waterfall, dropping 365 feet, deep in southwest Colorado’s San Juan Mountains are what is believed to be the two tallest cascading waterfalls. According to the World Waterfall database, the West Fork Chama Falls and Banded Falls each cascade an approximate 700 feet from a hanging basin above the headwaters of the East Fork of the Chama River. The database reports 10 other falls within a 5-mile radius, making this area a waterfall-viewing paradise for hikers and backcountry enthusiasts. Reaching the falls requires some effort. The area is not heavily trafficked and the steep trails are a bit tricky to find. The reward for your effort is an unparalleled nature at its finest. Access the falls via the West Fork Rio Chama Trail, beginning at Forest Trail 738 and ending at the junction of Trail 741. To find the trail, the U.S Forest Service recommends traveling from Chama, New Mexico, north on Highway 17 to the Chama River Road 121. Turn left onto Road 121 and travel north about 6 miles to the Rio Grande National Forest boundary where you take the left fork and travel about one mile to the trailhead. On the hike, Trail 740 branches off Trail 738 about two miles north of the trailhead. In this time of social distancing, perhaps there is no better time to reflect on space and no better place than the middle of nowhere to realize that the empty void is actually full when you stand amidst wild horses, the tallest or oldest trees, in the footsteps of giants and at the base of a tall waterfall.
The West Fork Chama Falls: Seen from the West Fork Chama Trail. The waterfall cascades about 700 feet from a basin near the Continental Divide and usually runs dry by the end of summer. photo by Doug Scott
JENNY JOHNSTON resides in Durango, Colorado, and is an outdoor writer and mother to two children who would much rather be outdoors exploring than inside watching her write. Look for her and her youngsters in the backcountry near you.
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CAMARADERIE & TRAGEDY
GATES LODORE at the
sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y by
A N DREW GULLIFORD
A river trip provides a reliable stream of seasonal fun, thrills and wonderment for friends and family – except when things go wrong
Late afternoon in the Gates of Lodore is a magical time as rafts come together looking for their designated camp site and the canyon walls reflect full sun. Often, re-introduced bighorn sheep can be found nibbling plants at river’s edge.
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of
I
n over two decades of rafting the Green River through the dark red canyons of the Gates of Lodore, I have come to expect laughter and giddy excitement while crashing cold waves on hot summer days. However, accidents sometimes occur out of nowhere, taking a simple summer adventure to an ordeal that has gone terribly, tragically wrong. On a wild river each of us is responsible for our actions. But when deep sobs and the guttural cries Plan for of grief arise when all passengers are not accounted for in the aftermath of a flipped raft trapped in a everything cottonwood tree, everyone takes a hit to the heart. I don’t blame the river. I don’t blame the canyons. I to take eight don’t blame the tree. As Laurence Gonzales writes in "Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why," “Plan times longer for everything to take eight times longer than you expect it to take. That allows for adaptation to real than you conditions and survival at the boundary of life and expect it death, where we seek our thrills.” A typical trip following a typical plan, including unpredictable weather
to take.
The river’s edge hummed with the excitement of students airing rafts, checking kayaks, packing provisions, counting PFDs and checking on helmets and paddles. We laughed and joked, swapped river stories, and when everything was ready, we walked to a large tree. Once assembled, we stood in a circle to listen to the safety talk. Everyone had rain gear – that was the consensus, anyway. The trip leader explained that we would scout all the bigger rapids by pulling to shore and walking beside them to learn the way of the water and path of the currents. By name, the Green River’s largest rapids are Winnies Rapid, Upper and Lower Disaster Falls, Triplet and Hell’s Half Mile, all christened by famed river runner Major John Wesley Powell.
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CAMARADERIE & TRAGEDY
GATES LODORE at the
of
Before entering the swift-running water near Triplet Falls, a swimming rock perfect for cannonball splashes provides a delightful diversion on a hot summer day.
The canyon of Lodore abounds with prehistoric Fremont and historic Ute Indian rock art that includes both pecked petroglyphs and painted pictograms.
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It seemed simple enough. The college students were eager to hit the river, and the Gates of Lodore beckoned. A tiny white cloud appeared above the canyon walls. The sky was blue, the river a deep pine color verging on brown. Sun shone on the rafts. We cast off one by one, catching the current in a curving thread of boats. Off we floated, channeled between the towering, red canyon walls, leaving the campground for the next batch of floaters. We had new inflatable rafts to haul our gear, duckies or self-baling inflatable kayaks for one to two people, and hard-shell kayaks for experienced paddlers who wanted to dance around the rocks and rest in eddies. We had Gortex clothing, neoprene wetsuits and river booties, special life vests, lanterns, river sandals and enough food for two trips. We had cotton clothing in dry river bags and we wore polyester shirts and shorts that would dry quickly in the sun, if there was any. That tiny cloud had grown, crowding the blue sky. A light rain began to fall. Small rivulets of silver rain began to roll down the cliffs. It was much too early to camp, so we kept floating, a more subdued group, huddled on the rafts in our rain gear. The wind picked up. A college professor, my job wasn’t to paddle or to cook but to interpret the environmental history of the river and explain how the magnificent canyons of the Green and the Yampa were nearly lost to large concrete dams in the 1950s. I had several historic tales to tell, but it was raining, and we had miles to go as the oars slipped quietly through the gray-black water. And most of us were soaked.
Through two days of rain we ran the Green. We ran Triplet Rapids, avoiding the wall and the Birth Canal. At Hell’s Half Mile we played through the autumnal rock garden and avoided tagging the boulders, in particular Lucifer, the rock in the middle. Camping at Rippling Brook we climbed to the microclimate and ecosystem of the 75foot Rippling Brook Waterfall. Then, Indian Summer returned. Despite the discomforts of rain the college trip ended safely. This was a typical trip, ending with boatloads of worn but smiling faces. Another, a commercial trip laden with adults and grandchildren that launched on high water when other companies had canceled, had a different ending. We never plan for this
When we pack for a summer rafting trip we take clothing, a camera, river gear, sleeping bag and tent. We pack beer, extra sunglasses, a jacket for the cool night air. But we never pack for death. We never plan for a tragedy, a whitewater death by drowning. Instead, our lives change the instant the raft overturns. Hours later the helicopter comes by low and slow, looking for a shadow, one that shows the form of a body pinned underwater by boulders. When our raft slammed into the submerged tree, the commercial river guide yelled, “High side! High side!” The command meant to move quickly to the upside of the raft to prevent water from spilling into the low side and flipping us. But in a tight canyon with the river roaring at 9,000 cubic feet a second, it all happened too quickly – with all of us tossed into the icy water. I blew out the back and swam to a fallen tree lying near the tip of an island. I clambered onto an old cottonwood tree, cold and
Triplet Rapids provides plenty of thrills as river guides plan their moves to avoid being slammed into the wall at river right.
alert, looking for my companions. Six of us had been on the sweep raft, the last of five rafts in the group. I saw no one. It was the first day of the trip and the first rapid on a four-day trip. In those seconds after the accident, as I tried to understand what had happened, I heard only rushing water. Then I saw it, the upside down raft bobbing furiously where it remained caught in what river runners call a “strainer.” In 20 years of river-running I’ve been involved in plenty of flips, but I knew this one was different. On the island where I attempted to warm up, I saw the couple who had been at the front of the raft hobbling along the shore. They were barefoot − the river had ripped off their sandals. We hugged, shook hands, found our guide. We walked the island looking for a way off, but the channel on both sides roared too swiftly for a safe exit. We noticed another of the river guides on the far shore, signaling to confirm that three of his five passengers were accounted for. The head count continued, until instantly we knew: one of us was lost. Families want their taste of adventure, cold water splashed on hot skin, yells and shouts of excitement, a reason to hang on to the “chicken line” as rafts tumble through rapids. We crave adventure until we face danger. We seek a brush with death, not its embrace. Our group had planned this trip months in advance without knowing that a record snowpack would force the dam above to release huge amounts of cold water, to both save the dam and irrigate fields of crops. These pulse floods are healthy for the environment to re-establish habitat for endangered fish and bird species. But with high flows there is no margin for human error. No room for mistakes with paddles or oars.
Everyone on our trip had wanted adventure, but now as four of us stood on the island, shivering, scratched, barefoot, with bright sunshine ebbing toward late afternoon shade, we were grateful simply to be alive. The following days were a haze, blending together. Through them were the unshakable deep wails and sobs of grief from the man whose partner was missing. “Why her, God? Why not me? Take me, I’m older.”
TOP: The Gates of Lodore include 500 million-year-old canyons and mandated river camp sites to ensure group privacy. BOTTOM: Rafts glide slowly beneath Steamboat Rock in Echo Park which became a national rallying cry for environmentalism in 1956 to stop a dam scheduled to be built here.
In 20 years of river-running I’ve been involved in plenty of flips, but I knew this one was different. The inevitable questions arose about the random nature of death − who dies, and why? We were trapped in a canyon, but also trapped between competing interests in the American West − farming and irrigation versus river running. Even to retrieve a body the Bureau of Reclamation would not slow a scheduled dam release. How often does a drowning occur? Only rarely. At the put-in, the head guide had announced that statistically we would be launching below the most dangerous part of the trip. We had taken the highway, arriving by van. This summer rafters will launch with nervous expectations. Once they arrive within earshot of the roar of the rapids, it is time to wrap protective arms around those they love and extend a wish for all a fun, safe passage. River trips are pure joy, a seasonal adventure that will carry most of us through a lifetime of fun and reverie. But I know how quickly a whitewater adventure can become shattering tragedy and loss.
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READER'S PHOTO
DEADWOOD MOUNTAIN Carolyn Wilber crosses a patch of snow on Deadwood Mountain in the La Plata Range while leading a hike for the Durango’s Seniors Outdoor Club. The club arranges around 200 outings a year for people ages 50 and above. In this photo, taken near the top of Deadwood Mountain, Lake Nighthorse is seen in the background. For more of Chris Blackshear’s photography visit his photoblog at www.photoblog.com/steph4100/. photo by Chris Blackshear Do you have photos you would like to share with readers of Adventure Pro Magazine? Upload your photos online at www.adventurepro.us and you just might see one or more show up in these pages. Find the “Share A Photo” tab in the top-right position of the menu and you’re on your way.
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life, STILL FULL OF
Magic
Y
“You ready?” I gleefully ask my partner Eric, as I close the heavy truck bed of his Ford F-150. Oneby-one, I clip each shoe into the pedals, cruise my Stumpjumper across the dirt lot and start an abrupt 300-foot climb toward the bizarre rock formations that tower above us. From our doorstep in Crested Butte, we can drive 30 minutes south through the wide U-shaped valley, surrounded by Gunnison National Forest, along Gunnison River’s cottonwood trees bedecked by remarkable American bald eagles. On the south side of Gunnison, our drive ends at Hartman Rocks Recreation Area: this high-desert, sage-speckled mecca for mountain biking. It feels unbelievably luxurious to shred sweeping singletrack here, minutes after a thunderstorm and when the earth is muddy most everywhere else. These trails, on the other hand, are perpetually dry. I’m eager for my mind to be lost in this unearthly terrain — to indulge in play. And for my attention to be held in continuous single-pointed meditation, as I steer through technical elements. Eric and I have bickered on-and-off, all morning. We’re acting irritable—and the root cause isn’t actually us. It’s an undercurrent of loss and uncertainty that we are learning how to process, even amid the warm advent of summer. I set our miscommunications aside and adopt a light tone as we kick-off our ride. A month ago, Governor Jared Polis lifted the statewide stay-at-home order that was in place to slow the spread of novel coronavirus: COVID-19, which causes a wide range of flu-like symptoms from fever to fatigue. The illness is exacerbated by respiratory inflammation, which is worsened at higher altitudes; for others, it leads to death. In a patchwork approach, each county now has individualized restrictions, based on local needs. Gunnison County’s first public health order, issued March 13, barred non-resident visitors. And if we venture beyond county boundaries for more than 24 hours, we need to self-quarantine upon return. All travel should resume normalcy by August, if COVID-19 doesn’t resurge.
How time in the outdoors provides
balance during a pandemic
The trailhead parking lot is a hard place to withhold from high fives and hugs! We love running into our friends here, even when we need to stay a bike’s length (or more) apart.
BY
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Hartman Rocks is a gem of fun trails, incredible sunsets and fascinating geological history wrapped in a high-altitude desert climate at the foot of snow-capped peaks.
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I love the quiet and slow pace of off-season in mountain towns — but experiencing this stilled chapter during a period typically full of vitality and economic prosperity is eerie in essence. The big picture is hard to digest. Many have lost their jobs. This year, the tourism sector alone will forfeit more than $60 million, according to Gunnison County officials. I wonder how the deficit will affect our town later this year and in years ahead. Our community is resilient and has beautifully banded together during this unpredictable time, and we will continue to find creative solutions. Simultaneously, there are days when I feel defeated by the trials of this global pandemic. As the future remains nebulous, I am even more appreciative for the haven of our backyard and public lands. From a bird’s eye, Hartman Rocks is characterized by a curling crescent of bulbous granite that stretches six miles. We start on the northeastern edge and ascend to the center of the mountainous bow. The interior of the ridgeline holds 45 miles of wide dirt roads and 45 miles of well-crafted trails in a 14,000-acre otherworldly landscape. I relax my grip, as my bike ascends the rolling switchbacks of Jack’s Trail, strewn with slickrock and fine pebbles. We’re 1,200 feet lower in elevation here than in Crested Butte, which sits at 8,909 feet. The season has turned from spring to summer, and like nature, all states of my human experience are impermanent, I remind myself. All of the highs, and all of the lows. At the top, we pull up to the BLM ranger-managed map to note any closures. A posted sign reminds folks to follow social distancing guidelines. I’m thankful that the county leaders support communitywide outdoor recreation for our mental, physical and spiritual health. The trailheads have all remained open. We decide to trace a loop from Sea of Sage to the furthest end of Lower Luge and Luge. To reach the route’s start, we chug slightly uphill on a broad road, due southeast. Over my left shoulder, I stare at the iconic geological spine of Hartman Rocks. The obscure shapes fluctuate from colossal freestanding boulders to spires reminiscent of hoodoos. The outcropping resembles the arched, texturized back of a stegosaurus. My legs begin to pump, my breath evens and my brain reaches a presentness. I start to feel an immersed relief from the chaos.
The landscape is delicate at Harman Rocks: remember to follow Leave No Trace principles. Only venture, camp, motor, and start fires on or in established paths, roads, camp sites and fire rings. 40 |
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As you bike at Hartman Rocks, keep your eyes and ears open. The BLM-managed recreation area is inclusive to a spectrum of recreationists including hikers, dogs and dirt bikes, all of which may appear from around a corner on the singletrack.
Less than a day after Gunnison County’s first public health order, ambulance sirens alarmed the quiet town street in front of our house, an emergency response to our neighbor, the first tragic COVID-19 fatality of our community. I realized the destructive potential power of this outbreak. I worried about my parents, single and living in isolated towns and my grandparents with fragile health. And, when will I be able to see them again? With a continuum of heavy news, my sadness grew for people suffering around the planet. I realized, I need to healthily channel that external stress and compartmentalize my awareness of these tragedies. Within a pandemic, the natural world remains abundantly beautiful − and life, still full of magic. As I accept the paradox of my existence, I find humility and peace in myself and where I live. I can refocus on nurturing my home, loved ones, self and place. The whole process is uncharted and messy, but it starts with a mountain bike ride in this sacred expanse. We turn off the road, away from the rugged ridge, and hop onto a fluid descent, for a couple of miles. After a sudden 90-degree turn, I take a deep breath and focus on my skyward momentum. Near the crest, my eyes light up when I see a vibrant mix of soil. The finegrained orange, rose and green-hued pebbles mark one of my favorite spots at Hartman Rocks. Right after, the ground levels out and the white-capped West Elk Mountains brightly fill the horizon. The glorious sight is breathtaking and makes me appreciate the juxtaposition of mountains and desert. I shift my weight into my pedals, drop my seat and accelerate northbound down the narrow, smooth, rollercoaster track. I try to focus on the scattered rocks and not get distracted by the sharp peaks in the distance. Suddenly, I can’t stop smiling, so I giggle and joyfully holler. I feel completely free. MORGAN TILTON is an award-winning travel writer specializing in outdoor industry and adventure coverage worldwide. She lives in Crested Butte and grew up in the San Juan Mountains, where she first learned how to mountain bike in Telluride. Now, she doesn’t know how she ever rode without the luxury of full-suspension. On a summer day, you can catch her riding or running laps up Tony’s Trail, right in her backyard.
In addition to amazing mountain bike trails, Hartman Rocks Recreation Area holds 50 designated dispersed campsites, and a myriad of climbing routes speckle the fine granite: bouldering, sport, and traditional.
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GEAR BIN
JETBO IL M INIM O Cook System and Summit Skillet
SERENGETI L E A N DR O G L AC IER Sunglasses Many sunglasses are so sportspecific that they lack the versatility for everyday wear. This is not the case with the Leandro Glacier glasses. These sunglasses from the Serengeti Signature Collection have a seriously cool vibe that’s at home on the streets of Paris and the glaciers of Chamonix. The Leandro’s backcountry chops are apparent in their secure fit, removable magnetic leather glacier shields and crystal-clear optics that don’t distort colors. The stylish shades feature Borosilicate mineral glass lenses that, according to the specs, are a full 20% lighter and thinner than the competition. The thin, elegant frames are made of a gorilla-strong injected nylon and stainless steel that’s flexible and comfortable. Leave the side shields on for skiing, mountaineering and windy days when dust is blowing. They are easy to remove when you’re biking, hiking, hanging out on the beach or zipping around in your sports car (note to self, these sunglasses will make you want to buy a sports car.) Hinges have hidden springs for a snug fit and soft nose pads provide no-slip comfort. Curve is BASE 6, which means the lenses are flatter than traditional wrap around sunglasses. Our tester wore his first pair of Serengeti sunglasses at a paragliding World Cup Championships in Digne, France. "They were the best sunglasses I'd worn," he said. "And now, nearly 30 years later, they have only gotten better." www.serengeti-eyewear.com
26000
$ 42 |
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Full disclosure, the original Jetboil has been our go-to camp stove for nearly 20 years. It accompanied us on many backpacking trips, alpine climbs and big walls. Generally, we’re reluctant to mess with perfection, but in the spirit of open-mindedness, we took the new MiniMo on a week-long trip to Utah’s rugged Wasatch mountains. The result? An immediate upgrade to our backcountry kit. The MiniMo features Jetboil’s proprietary “FluxRing technology.” The corrugated aluminum band increases the surface area on the bottom of the pot, providing more heat with less gas. Basically you get the heat transfer efficiency of a large pot with the portable, packable 1 liter Jetboil container. The MiniMo’s canister is lower in height than the original. This makes it less wobbly, and easier to eat out of (i.e. your spoon handle doesn’t disappear inside). There’s also a plastic cover for the FluxRing that doubles as a measuring cup. Testers love the secure pot-to-stove mating—you use the insulated handle and sleeve to pick up the entire assembly, even when the stove is lit. Water boils in just over two minutes with only half the fuel consumption of traditional stoves. Plus, there’s a rectangular wire adjustment that lets you go from a light simmer to a full boil, which makes cooking up a gourmet backcountry dinner easier (and more efficient) than ever. The stove itself has a regulator that adjusts for cold and altitude. The pushbutton ignitor never failed us, even in 25-degree, snowy conditions at 8,500 feet. When we wanted more than coffee and cocoa, we brought along the lightweight Summit Skillet. A pot support (included) turns the MiniMo into a regular gas stove surface for any pot. The ceramic-coated (non-stick) aluminum skillet is big enough for grilled cheese sandwiches, spaghetti sauce and rice and beans. And at 10.6 ounces, it won’t weigh down your pack. www.jetboil.com
MINIMO
15000
$
SUMMIT SKILLET
5000
$
BLACK D IAM ON D COS MO Headlamp A headlamp is one piece of equipment that won’t gather dust. It’s essential gear for alpine starts, camping and backcountry missions that push the daylight envelope. And it’s ideal for post-sunset garden forays, bedtime reading and walking your dog on moonless nights. The key to buying a headlamp is finding one that’s light and compact, but still bright enough to light up a trail. We like the new Cosmo as it’s the size of a big walnut. It’s compact enough to slip in a pocket, but with 225 lumens it throws out enough light for night hikes. And while many new headlamps are as complicated as calculus, this one has only two buttons. The locking mechanism is foolproof, which is nice when your headlamp is bouncing around in a pack or duffle. Two buttons adjust the light from close-up to distance modes, engage the red night-vision mode and activate the strobe. A multifaceted lens ups the optical efficiency so you get more light with less drain on the AAA batteries. Plus, the headlamp is submergible. It’s designed to operate in at least 3 feet of water for 30 minutes—which makes it ideal for canyoneering and wet-weather hikes. Just remember to open up the battery compartment and dry everything out afterward. The Cosmo weighs 2.93 ounces (with batteries) and has an average run time of 6 hours on the brightest setting (200 hours on dim). www.blackdiamondequipment.com
3000
$
STI O E D DY
AIRE
Long-sleeve Shirt (men’s and women’s)
BaKRaft Hybrid Packraft
If you can only pack a single shirt, our recommendation is the Eddy. One of our testers took the two-week challenge with the Eddy, meaning he wore it every day for two weeks. He sported it for hiking, stand-up paddling, mountain biking, climbing and spring skiing. When there weren’t sports involved, he wore it for Zoom meetings, to the grocery store and to pick up take-out food. His conclusion? The Eddy LS (long sleeve) is the ultimate go anywhere, do anything shirt. The athletic cut, with plenty of room in the shoulders and not too much bagginess in the chest never inhibited movement or range of motion. The soft nylon/polyester blend material has a slight stretch, nice if you’re paddling, climbing or lifting a keg out of the back of your truck. And while the Eddy is 100% synthetic (read quick-drying and wrinkle-free), it has the drape and appearance of its cotton cousins. While the material looks casual, it’s highly technical, with a water-resistant finish and UPF 50+ sun protection. The tail is 30 inches (men’s medium) so you can wear it untucked or cowboy style. Both shirts are finished with faux-pearl snap closures and adjustable cuffs with three snap adjustments that are easy to roll up. The men’s medium is a featherweight 8 ounces although the shirt doesn’t feel wispy. Plus it stuffs down to the size of a grapefruit if you are stashing it in your pack. The men’s version has 16 colorways to choose from, the women’s collection offers nine. www.stio.com
ARM O RED O UTD O O R GEAR RatSack Cache Bag You learn quickly that food needs protection when your camp gets ransacked by scavengers. Rats and mice smelling a meal will gnaw through tents. Raccoons, ravens, squirrels and roaming campsite dogs will rip apart plastic garbage bags to get to leftovers. Nobody wants that. Enter Armored Outdoor Gear, the creator of the RatSack. Manufactured in Flagstaff, Arizona, the RatSack concept is simple. The knitted stainless steel mesh bags when hung off the ground keeps critters from getting to any odoriferous contents stored inside. The steel mesh is unchewable, won’t rust or break apart. The RatSack comes in four sizes, each made of knitted stainless steel with a tough 2-inch hook-and-loop Velcro closure at the top. Aside from keeping scavengers off your food, the RatSack doubles as a bag in which you can cool drinks in a stream or river. The Sack Pack, an off-shoot of the RatSack, is equipped with straps and a zipperedclosure for use at festivals or events requiring clear, see-through bags. For our testing, we followed the manufacturer’s instructions to hang a foodfilled RatSack between trees at a campsite, which resulted in one frustrated magpie. And when we learned we could test the RatSack in a mouse-infested shed while the owner of the shed placed mouse traps in the corners, we took advantage. We put an enticing bag of snacks in a RatSack and placed it on the floor of the shed over three days. While the mouse traps collected a daily harvest of mice, the RatSack received a daily shaking to rid it of mouse turds. The bag of food remained untouched and the RatSack intact. www.armoredoutdoorgear.com ULTRALIGHT, SMALL, MEDIUM, LARGE
39 $ 4999 $
12900
$
99
TO
The packraft has opened an exciting new world of adventure to explorers. Rather than hiking or biking in and then back out, we can now head into the mountains on foot or bike and either paddle a lake or paddle out on a stream or river. What fun! These individual-sized inflatable boats are designed to be light and small enough to fit in a backpack or on a bike and durable enough to withstand the rigors of hard use. The AIRE BakRaft takes that design and one-ups it with a self-bailing floor and an I-beam construction that resists folding in technical rapids. Also, AIRE didn’t take its basic kayak design and cut materials to save weight. The company actually tweaked the shape of the BAKraft to cut smoothly through all types of water. At 7 feet long and 8.5 pounds, the BAKraft Hybrid is a scaled-down version of the BAKraft Expedition, which is 10 feet in length and weighs 12 pounds. We didn’t get an opportunity to test the BakRaft Hybrid but we do own AIRE boats, a cataraft and a duckie, so we know the quality of the brand. The BakRaft series is made in the U.S. with a Vectran fabric shell, has the urethane AIREcell internal bladder system and thermos/heat-welded seams, and has streamlined in-field repairability. It comes with a seat, inflation bag, hand pump, thigh straps and repair kit. www.aire.com
BAKRAFT HYBRID
1,64900
$
BAKRAFT EXPEDITION
2,19900
$
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A TERRIFYING TALE OF A WEST WITHOUT WATER
BOAT WALKER
Packrafting the Escalante River at low water provides a sneak peek of a possible apocalypse The quicksand took me to my knees, and I sank deeper as I flailed my arms and legs. This tortured landscape, once a pristine river corridor, is now entrapped in silt from a declining human-caused lakebed. As the sediment crept into my membranes, I surrendered by lying across its surface. The Escalante River meanders far beyond any road or human dominion. For 90 miles the river twists and turns through a sandstone corridor lending itself to a unique riparian habitat. Since Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument was established in 1996, extensive invasive plant eradication and cooperation from local ranchers has helped to restore Escalante’s canyons and watershed. These are some of the most pristine and beautiful waterways of the Southwest, connected to what is considered one of the last rivers to be mapped in the Lower 48. Today the Escalante is no longer a secret, affirmed by the presence of Boy Scouts, families and tourists visiting its canyons. Yet it has a secret: though it is undammed and flows freely in its upper reaches, its lower end is being humiliated at the hands of humankind. To get to this impasse was no small task. The work began even before starting the hike through bone dry washes, thorny invasive species and cow shit. The nearest town of Escalante, Utah, is one of the most remote in the west. From there it still takes hours of driving the wash boarded Hole-In-The-Rock road before turning toward the trailhead down the sandiest Jeep trail imaginable.
To create a shuttle for a loop route, my hiking companion volunteered the use of his motorcycle. This saved us very little time, as our load was not suited to the deep sand. In short order the sand overtook the tires and launched both of us and our heavy packs into the dirt, face first. Feeling like I’d been punched in the gut, I spit sand from my teeth and looked out at the Mad Max world awaiting ahead. From my seat in the dirt, I hitched a ride down the final stretch of road to the trailhead with a passing search-and-rescue vehicle. With little option, my partner walked the motorcycle most of the remaining distance. The loop itself was a perceived thing of beauty. The objective: to backpack from the trailhead down to the Escalante River in the afternoon, make camp, and then float past the confluence of the Escalante and Colorado rivers to Lake Powell the next morning. Arriving at Lake Powell, we’d paddle two miles to our takeout, pack up our packrafts and hike a tributary canyon back up to my Jeep. It sounded fun, despite the fact that we had not checked the water flow. We did not realize the prime packraft season had long passed on this desert river and we were deep into a drought year. At the river we excitedly inflated our Alpacka rafts. We launched into a few inches of water, occasionally using paddles and feet to help scoot along. As the water thinned we started walking alongside to keep the rafts from dragging along the bottom. Eventually, the boats had to be pulled with a rope like a leashed animal. Not 10 miles later, the river disappeared altogether, and we were left with little choice but to carry our boats. sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y by
M OR GA N S J O G R E N
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BOAT WALKER
TOP LEFT: Early optimism had us ready to paddle. However, no paddles required! TOP RIGHT: Imagine a world without water. CENTER: Eventually, the boats had to be pulled with a rope like a leashed animal. CENTER RIGHT: The sediment creeps into the author’s membranes. BOTTOM LEFT: Boat Walkers: The art of walking long distances while carrying and dragging a boat. BOTTOM RIGHT: Drifting through the Escalante River corridor.
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Though we should have been nearing the confluence with the Colorado River, I was face down, literally crawling across a new humanmade ecotone—a dying lake bed. The flies buzzed around my sunburnt face. Resting my cheek against the cool mud that smelled of mold and must, the momentary respite provided a semblance of quenched thirst. Not expecting to need water on a float of a freaking river, an hour or more passed without water in searing heat. I contemplated licking the mud. I imagined a world without water. I also imagined a world without food, as the remaining rations were a package of mustard-flavored sardines, black coffee and half a pack of cigarettes. I never needed to smoke, but this trip affected my mind. The southwest is well into a decade of drought and heat escalation. The Glen Canyon dam, which helped create this foul mess at the edges of Lake Powell, was built in 1963 to store water and generate hydroelectric energy for major cities in Arizona, California and Utah. From my vantage point on the ground, I looked up at the “bathtub ring,” a white line I could not help stained across the sandstone wall reflecting a high-water but laugh (or mark from long ago. While maybe curse) it is a relief to consider the at this bizarre possibility of this canyon and others reemerging from disconnected their underwater burial, it world we live in. is haunting to lie almost 90 feet beneath obvious net Modern life in the water losses. In fact, over Wild West can recent years Lake Powell has experienced its lowest water be stranger than levels since its pre-dam era as science fiction. a living river. Could someone in Phoenix turning on a faucet imagine us, slogging through the muck dragging boats where the not-so-eternal water source used to be? I pulled my face off the ground, and one hand at a time I caressed the surface. As I gingerly slid my hands across the mud, followed one by one by my shins, in a delicate crawl I was allowed passage. In slowly leaving behind the terrors of the quicksand, I remained aware that there is a beautiful canyon beneath this hostile layer of sludge. The ghastly white mark tracing the canyon walls above is ever-present, serving to remind us of the presence of Lake Powell. It had to be near. With my head down I crawled forward, until I stopped at the sound of a familiar squeal. Perhaps a bird? I looked up to spot a power boat in the distance, expecting the expanse of mud stretching between me and its bow to be a mirage. But there, standing on a deck, a woman in a hot pink bikini stood flailing her arms, making what
sounded like party noises. I risked sinking to rise and wave my arms. “Hey!” The woman shifted her stance and looked toward me. She motioned to her friends. They pointed and chattered, watching me slog toward the lake shore. As my partner and I drew near, both of us fully covered in thick black mud, I noted several anchored boats. On nearly every boat at least one person took photographs of us, the two swamp creatures approaching shore. In the midst of the distractions, I realized my paddle fell off of my pack. I floundered back across the muck to retrieve it. My partner, still far behind struggling in quicksand, had yet to look up. I called to him. His response: “This sucks!” Literally. The boaters had ample time to capture video, post footage to social media and crack open another beer while we labored to the shore. I could not help but laugh (or maybe curse) at this bizarre disconnected world we live in. Modern life in the Wild West can be stranger than science fiction. At the lake, I shimmied face down and slid into the stagnant, murky water. I drank deeply, not caring whether the water was laced with boat gasoline and human feces. When my partner arrived, we rinsed mud from our bodies and readied our pack rafts. Launching toward the enclave of onlookers, I expected to simply paddle by, thinking only of crossing nearly 2 miles of flat water. I had nothing to say, or so I thought, as we approached the bewildered boaters. They asked if we were OK. I looked up at them lining the deck of the shiny white vessel, and muttered, “Yes. Beer?” Unbelievably, we are handed a generous six-pack of beer (yet no clean drinking water, although in all fairness it was not the request). After thanking them we paddled off into the seemingly vast and bottomless desert sea − across the grave site of Glen Canyon. Not even the most elaborate trick (a dam) can convince the Colorado Plateau to retain water in this unnatural way. Even the recordbreaking snowpack in mountain ranges that feed Lake Powell can override unrelenting heat and evaporation. No monkey wrench is necessary to foil the plans of a dam and a lake that was never in nature’s plan. I chugged my beer and turned to paddle fervently for the next canyon while contemplating where I should cache the extra beer. I could already envision a west without water, or worse, and I knew very well what my last words will be. MORGAN SJOGREN is a free-range raconteur typically found roaming wild in the Colorado Plateau, but is now quarantined in southwest Colorado. This story is a behindthe-scenes glimpse of her third book, The Best Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Hikes (2019). S U M M E R 2 0 2 0
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SIPS 'N' SUDS
RIVER TRIP
Refreshment TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL HAPPY HOUR ON THE RIO
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Cold drinks and a sandy beach for playing games — the perfect way to relax and take a break from rowing down the Colorado River.
Multiday river trips are one of the best ways to celebrate the long, hot days of summer. With a good crew of friends and miles of river to run, there is no shortage of fun and camaraderie to be had on a river trip. Add the element of surprise, and your group is in for a treat. sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y
TI ONA EVERSOLE by
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In the days leading up to launch, schedule a trip to the store for essentials: snacks, ice and your drink of choice. While stocking up on beer, why not grab the goods for an afternoon happy hour at the same time? The group will thank you for the impromptu ice cold boozy beverage (or mocktail for the sober folks) while floating through some of the most isolated areas in the Southwest. So pick your poison and throw an extra bag of ice in the cooler; here are some tips for executing the ultimate river trip happy hour.
Think Outside the Can
Sure, beers and seltzers are a simple solution for river trip beverages. Chances are, everyone else on the river trip probably thought to bring the same thing. Think bigger than the 30-pack. Unlike backpacking or bikepacking trips, rafts have the potential to carry a lot of gear. Weight and space typically are not an issue. If a cocktail or mocktail requires several components such as mixers and garnishes, plan ahead and gather all of the ingredients. There is no need to sacrifice the lime wedge or simple syrup for the sake of weight or space.
Shatter-Proof Your Booze
Glass is not your friend on a river trip — it breaks easily and is a hazard for both the boat and its passengers. Purchase liquor and mixers in plastic bottles for a river tripfriendly option. If your spirit of choice only comes in glass, consider pouring the contents of the glass bottle into an empty plastic container. A two-liter bottle is a good option, or you can divvy up the contents of the glass bottle into a few Nalgene water bottles for safekeeping. Stainless steel bottles are another boat-friendly option, although it is also more expensive than reusing a plastic bottle.
Invest in a Good Cooler
A good river trip cocktail requires ice, and not just a couple cubes. The amount of ice used per drink has the potential to make or break the cocktail/ mocktail quality, especially on those sweltering afternoons where the temperature hits triple digits. A good cooler will keep ice for the duration of the river trip. Practice keeping the lid closed and latched when not in use, otherwise ice will melt quickly. While a quality cooler is not cheap, it’s worth the investment. A good cooler preserves ice and food for days or weeks on end, depending on size and durability. Plus, a cooler doubles as a seat or table on your boat, and can be used for other outdoor activities outside of rafting.
Have Extra Reusable Cups On Hand
This one’s important to keep the happy hour a surprise. Members of your group might not have a spare cup, and the extra cups in the kitchen box might be buried under a heavy pile of river gear, deeming them inaccessible. Rather than make someone use their water bottle (highly discouraged since staying hydrated in the summer heat is top priority), pack a few extra cups for those in need.
HA PPY HO U R U P G R A D E S If you thought your river trip happy hour couldn’t get any better, we’ve got a few more ideas to keep it interesting. PICK A THEME
Themes are a fun way to bring your crew together during the river trip. Happy hour on a Tuesday? Plan tacos for dinner and kick off the afternoon with margaritas for a Taco Tuesday theme. Got a birthday? Sing happy birthday and bring a mini cake for the occasion. Beach theme? Give everyone flower leis and throw together a fruity mixed drink. PLAY A GAME
Whether you’re happy hour is on the boats or on the beach, games add an interactive element to social time. Bring a game for the group to play like catch (bring a floating ball or beach ball to throw from boat to boat), bocce ball or frisbee. Let your culinary creativity take over. This raft charcuterie included apple slices, meats, cheeses, crackers and fresh bread.
INCLUDE AN APPETIZER
Drinks are only one aspect of happy hour. Really want to impress your river trip family? Break out an appetizer to share over cold drinks. We recommend the river map charcuterie: a mix of several different cheeses, dried meats, fruits and crackers laid out on a river map when not in use. Bon appetit!
Top It Off with a Garnish
A lime wedge goes a long way. The garnish will take each drink to the next level. While members of the group might have known about your surprise happy hour plan all along, they probably weren’t expecting you to throw some mint into the mix, or hand them a margarita with a salted rim. When it comes to river trips, it’s all about the little things — the details that no one will expect in the middle of nowhere. Bring those lemons and limes. TIONA EVERSOLE has spent the last six years rowing some of the Southwest’s most stunning rivers including the Animas, Colorado, Dolores, Green and Yampa. When she’s not rafting, you’ll find her running, hiking and biking in the San Juan Mountains. Follow her adventures on Instagram at @run.wander.ride.
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KILLER WEEKEND
Flagstaff, Arizona
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A view of the San Francisco Peaks from the Brookbank Loop.
N OT YO U R G R A N D FAT H E R ’ S O L D LO G G I N G TOW N The pioneers who settled Flagstaff, Arizona, on the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau in north-central
sto ry & p h oto g r a p h y by
BR U C E GR U B B S
Arizona Territory in the 1880s would no longer recognize it. Once a ranching and logging center, Flagstaff is now home to Northern Arizona University. It is also home to the world’s largest privately-owned astronomical observatory and the U.S. Geological Survey’s Astrogeology Center where the moon was mapped for the Apollo landings. The Santa Fe Railroad arrived in 1882 and still barrels through town. The historic train depot, once the only place locals could connect with the world and take delivery of a grand piano to grace their parlor, is currently the AmTrak station. In addition to its twice-daily stops, the station is the place to catch ground shuttles to the Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport. The train aside, modern Flagstaff lies at the junction of five major highways and is a major jumping point for the Grand Canyon National Park. Flagstaff itself is a vibrant outdoor town and there is plenty to do in and around this little city. In the winter, you can hit the Arizona Snowbowl, one of the oldest ski areas in the country, or check out the backcountry skiing and snowshoeing in the surrounding forest and on the slopes of the San Francisco Peaks.
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When the snow has melted, hundreds of miles of trails await to hike and mountain bike in the surrounding Coconino National Forest. It’s the largest and one of the most accessible national forests in the country. The Arizona National Scenic Trail passes right through Flagstaff on its 800-mile route from Utah to Mexico, and the Flagstaff Urban Trail System connects the inner city routes to the forest for walkers, runners and cyclists. HISTORIC HOTELS As the largest city along Interstate 40 (formerly the famous Route 66), all the chain hotels are represented in Flagstaff. However, to be in tune with the town’s colorful history check out the historic Weatherford and Monte Vista hotels, both located in the downtown historic district.
HUNGRY, OR IN NEED OF A CAFFEINE FIX? LATE FOR THE TRAIN With three locations in Flagstaff, this coffee bar is the local’s choice for a quick snack and a specialty coffee or smooth hot chocolate. It also serves breakfast pastries and burritos. BRANDYS For a sit-down breakfast before hitting the trail, Brandys is another local secret. It has two locations for breakfast and lunch, baked goods and espresso using locally sourced ingredients. BEAVER STREET BREWERY A Flagstaff landmark, Beaver Street was the first microbrewery in Flagstaff. It opened in 1994 on south Beaver Street on the site of the city’s first supermarket. The microbrewery itself is located in a nearby historic property, the Halstead Lumberyard Building. Beaver Street Brewery is well-known for excellent pizza and hamburgers, but there are many other lunch and dinner choices. IN-TOWN SIGHTS LOWELL OBSERVATORY Located on the west side of Flagstaff, the observatory was founded in 1894 by Percival Lowell, an avid amateur astronomer from Boston. His wish was to take advantage of the excellent “seeing” provided by Flagstaff’s 7,000-foot elevation and clear, dry air. Well-known
TOP LEFT: Hiking in upper Abineau Canyon, below Humphreys Peak. TOP RIGHT: The San Francisco Peaks tower above the Sunset Trail. BOTTOM LEFT: Thanks to the old Radio burn, Fatmans Loop offers 100-mile views. BOTTOM RIGHT: Hard to believe that Buffalo Park is in the middle of a city of 70,000 people.
as the observatory where Clyde Tombaugh discovered the planet Pluto in 1930, Lowell has always been on the cutting edge of research. The visitor center and hands-on museum should not be missed. And if you have the time, take a guided tour or observe the nighttime heavens through one of the six telescopes on the Giovale Open Deck Observatory. They’re open to the public. MUSEUM OF NORTHERN ARIZONA If you want to learn more about the Colorado Plateau, this is the place. Permanent exhibits and scheduled events will provide a good feel for the natural and human history of the plateau. You can view the extensive indoor and outdoor exhibits on your own or with a guided tour. There is also a half-mile nature trail which is great for families with small children. HIT THE TRAIL BUFFALO PARK This two-mile easy trail is set in an open ponderosa pine forest and grassland atop Switzer Mesa located in the heart of the city. Until the late 1960s, visitors could drive the loop through the park and watch bison from the safety of their cars. With the bison gone, the park is now part of the urban trail system, which is popular with walkers, runners and mountain bikers. The high mesa features great views of the mountains north of the city, including Elden Mountain, the Dry Lake Hills and the San Francisco Peaks. For an urban trail, it feels almost like wilderness. Access is via Forest Avenue and North Gemini Drive. FATMANS LOOP Set on the eastern slopes of Elden Mountain, this 2.2-mile trail on national forest land climbs through rugged remnants of the lava flows that formed the mountain. From the high point of the trail, about 500 feet higher than the trailhead, you’ll have great views of the Cinder Hills volcanic field. You’ll see the youngest volcanic cinder cones on the Colorado Plateau and one of several local sites where the lunar astronauts trained in the 1960s and 1970s. If you want a much longer trek, you can hike the Mount Elden Trail, which climbs 1,500 feet to the summit of the mountain. Access is via U.S. 89 to the Elden Mountain Trailhead on the northeast side of town, just past the Peaks Ranger Station. SUNSET-BROOKBANK LOOP This beautiful 5.3-mile loop climbs the gentle northern slopes of the Dry Lake Hills through a pleasing mix of ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, limber pine and
quaking aspen, as well as alpine meadows. The trail starts from the Sunset Trailhead, accessed via U.S. 180 and Schultz Pass Road, which becomes the graded dirt Forest Road 420. This trail, and many others in the Dry Lake HillsElden Mountain trail system, are popular with both hikers and mountain bikers. AUBINEAU CANYON If you want to get away from the crowds, this beautiful 7.4-mile loop is the hike. From the trailhead, follow the Abineau Canyon Trail .5 miles, then turn left on the Bear Jaw Trail. The trail climbs through groves of quaking aspen and meadows set in the alpine forest on the north slopes of the San Francisco Peaks. Watch for historic carvings on the aspen trunks, left by Basque sheepherders who grazed their flocks on the
mountain until about 1970. After crossing Bear Jaw Canyon, the trail ends at the Abineau Canyon Road. Turn right and follow the old road west to Abineau Canyon. The road ends at Abineau Canyon in an open meadow with a great view of the north slopes of Humphreys Peak. At 12,633 feet, Humphreys is the state’s highest mountain. The loop continues on the Abineau Canyon Trail, which descends through uprooted trees and avalanche debris, then enters the cool, alpine forest. Reach the Abineau Canyon Trailhead from Flagstaff by driving north on U.S. 180. About 18 miles from town, turn right on Hart Prairie Road, FR 151. Drive 1.6 miles, then turn left on Hostetter Tank Road (FR 418). Continue 3.1 miles, then turn right into the trailhead. BRUCE GRUBBS lives in Flagstaff and is the author of numerous outdoor books and guides, including Best Easy Day Hikes Flagstaff and Hiking Northern Arizona, published by Falcon Guides. S U M M E R 2 0 2 0
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BROKEN CHAIN
HOW TO
Fix a Broken Chain & Flat Tire
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Locate the broken chain link and remove the damaged link. Use the chain-breaker tool to push the pin out of the old link. You will need two “female” ends of your chain to use the quick link (see illustration).
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Retrieve the quick link you smartly included in your kit. Links are chain specific (notice “11 speed” on the package) so be sure to purchase the correct quick link for your specific chain!
O N YO U R B I K E A step-by-step guide to get you rolling again
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C A RTER ATK INS ON
Of the approximately 50 components on a road or mountain bike, the two most crucial to moving you ahead are the chain and tires. Knowing how to fix a broken chain and a flat tire will help riders avoid the trouble of getting stranded. Fortunately, with a few tools and a basic understanding of your bike, you can repair these yourself. Your recourse is to walk your bike home and pay for the repairs at a bike shop. Let’s begin as simply as possible by assuming that you are prepared with a tool kit that includes the basic tools for your bike. Of importance for fixing your chain is the correct quick link for your chain and a chain-breaker tool. For the flat, you’ll need the correct tube even if your tires are tubeless, a tire tool and a simple multi-tool. You don’t leave home without your phone so don’t bike without the basics. Let’s fix the broken chain first and then the flat tire.
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Align the “male” ends of the quick link opposite each other as illustrated. Note: the direction of the quick link is important. The oblong part of the quick link faces the opposite direction of force. The direction of force is the direction the chain is traveling when the bike is being pedaled.
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Slide the male ends through the openings, or female ends, in the links.
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Make sure the indentations on either side of the quick link are correctly aligned, then tug in the opposite direction (outward) with both hands to pull the link into place, securing it. Note: If you cannot fully secure the link by tugging, the force from your first or second pedal stroke will cinch it together if it is properly aligned. Double check your work for correct alignment. If aligned, you're good to go.
FLAT TIRE Oops, now you have a flat tire. Let's fix it!
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Get out your multitool and remove the wheel with the flat. Let’s assume it’s the rear tire that’s flat; this adds more complexity and grease to the fun.
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Shift gears to position the chain on the smallest gear of the cassette. This makes removal of the wheel so much easier.
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Remove the wheel either by unscrewing the axle or the skewer.
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Run your finger around the inside of the tire to remove the thorn or other culprit that initiated the air loss. If nothing is found, slightly inflate the new tube. Insert the valve stem and situate the tube in the tire. Use the tire tool to reinsert the tire bead back into the wheel while taking care not to pinch the tube (this is why we slightly inflate the tube). Inflate the tire to proper air pressure, then screw the nut back on the valve – but not too tight. Put the wheel back on the bike in reverse order of removal while taking care to align the brake disk with the brake caliper. Re-insert the axle or skewer and tighten. Voila!
Unscrew the valve and release any remaining air. Squeeze the sidewall to break the tire bead from the rim, then insert the tire tool. For a tire with a tube, slide the tire tool around the circumference of the rim to break the entire bead. Unscrew the retaining nut from the valve and push the inner tube stem inside the tire and remove the tube. Be sure to remove only one side of the tire from the rim. When all else fails, call for someone to come get you! If you are too far back in the woods or out of reception, stash your bike and return to it with repair supplies. Or, you can secure the tire on the rim the best you can, put the pedal nearest you in the top position to avoid hitting your shin, grab the bike by the handlebar stem and start hoofing.
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For bikes with tubeless tires, scan the rear tire closely to see if there is a sealant leak that would indicate a puncture or breach in the tire bead. If you see a thorn protruding, remove it. Then turn the wheel so that the sealant inside the tire sloshes to the puncture point. The sealant will stop air from escaping a small hole.
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For a larger hole (pictured), the sealant may still be an option to create a repair. With the hole pointed toward the ground, start pumping the tire – and cross your fingers! Sealant may fizzle out but will eventually decrease and, if luck is on your side, seal the breach.
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Now, if the tubeless tire bead is separated from the rim, you are looking at a partially dismounted tire, a puddle of sealant and a $1,000 carbon wheel smeared with gooey slime. I’ve been there! First thing you could do is just insert the back-up tube, inflate the tube and be on your way. For a 50-50 chance of success – in my experience – you could reinsert the tire bead and pump like mad or use a carbon dioxide cartridge inflator and hope the effort quickly seals the bead.
Knowing what to do and how to prepare yourself for a bike ride will keep you riding and bring you safely back home. CARTER ATKINSON lives in Bozeman, Mont., with his family where he enjoys the outdoor playground as much as he can on two wheels.
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WILD VOICES Naturalist and river guide Colleen Cooley strives to inspire indigenous women to pursue guiding for its
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opportunities to share traditional connections to the river
LIVING OUTSIDE THE BOX COLLEEN COOLEY sto ry by
MO RGAN SJOGREN ROBERT A. JONAS
p h oto g r a p h y by
Cooley encourages other indigenous women to pursue guiding.
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River guide Colleen Cooley prefers to live outside the box whether it’s on a raft or in the back of her car. “I love the freedom and flexibility of living out of my car during the warmer part of the year,” Cooley said. During winter she holes up in Flagstaff, Arizona, but laments, “I am living in a box and although I enjoy coming home to a bed and a wood-fired stove, it feels unnatural.” Cooley’s life is anything but boxed in. Her personal interests and pursuits are varied and commendable. She volunteers for the Colorado River Days and Flagstaff Mountain Film Festival. She prioritizes time with family especially with her niece and nephew. An avid rock climber and trail runner, Colleen pays special attention to the natural world when she is outdoors. “I'm working on a plant book, which will be a reference for
myself, and to be shared with other people,” she said. “I am also researching how these plants are being impacted by climate change.” When she speaks about guiding on the San Juan River, Colleen exudes an intimate passion for the water. “I enjoy that first stroke of the oar on the water, and leaving everything behind, and letting go.” Originally from Shonto and Blue Gap on the Navajo Nation, she is Towering House clan born for the Reed People clan, which is the traditional Diné way of describing ancestry. Colleen did not grow up on the river, yet a river trip changed everything and pushed her to pursue guiding. “I participated in the Native American River Guide Training and Interpretation Program in 2008, which my older sister, Nikki, began in 2007 out of (Northern Arizona University). The training occurred on the San Juan River.”
Guiding on the San Juan River connects Cooley to her home landscape.
“We as women may
The experience propelled her to begin guiding with Wild Expeditions in 2009. have a different Despite the introduction from her sister, guiding on the river still feels perspective in the male-dominated to Cooley. However, way we tell stories, she hopes to inspire other indigenous women to get into guiding. interact with the “I want to let other women know guests and how that we can be in this industry,” she explained. “I've been trying to we connect to encourage fellow indigenous women to the river.” try it out. There's a need for that. That's important! We as women may have a different perspective in the way we tell stories, interact with the guests and how we connect to the river.” Guiding on the San Juan helped forge her connection between the familiarity of her home landscape and its nearby waterway. “The San Juan River as a whole is special to me because it is home. It is sacred. It is a source of life for many. It has a rich history. It has untold stories. It is life. Before any of the state, federal and reservation boundaries, this place was, and to me is still, considered indigenous lands. There is more to this river basin than the recreational aspect. I enjoy the views atop San Juan Hill and seeing the Abajo Mountains to the north and the Mule's Ear Diatreme to the south.” Colleen stresses the importance of hiring indigenous guides. Wild Expeditions, the company she guides for, hires local and indigenous guides from the area. “I've gone with friends, family and people from all over the country, including people from Germany and Italy. Being with a Diné in our homelands is important. It provides a unique experience for the guests.” Though each trip is different, Colleen strives to share her personal connection to the river and landscape with the guests. “There's so much history to be told. There's so much knowledge about plants and wildlife along the river basin. Our ancestors migrated through this area, so I think there is a need to have our voices in this river and in this landscape.” MORGAN SJOGREN is a free-range raconteur typically found roaming wild in the Colorado Plateau.
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Trail runners glide through a stand of alpen trees on the picturesque Purgatory Flats Trail across from Purgatory Resort in Colorado. photo by Terrance Siemon 56 |
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
V I S TA S
