Eternal Egypt
Your buzz could kill.
Buzzed driving is drunk driving.
unplug
When sinking in life’s unyielding wave of technology, disconnect from the rush and slip into island-time. Cast off with The Moorings, let your worries melt away, remember how to live in the moment—one nautical mile at a time.
HELSINKI
Matthew Schueller
Celebrate Pride, savor world-class cuisine, and plunge into Baltic waters in Helsinki—Finland’s vibrant capital where art, community, and joy flow as freely as the midsummer sun. Discover why the happiest country on earth feels like home.
10
ZAMBIA 18
Allison Foat
Reborn on a Zambian hilltop, Chichele Presidential blends mid-century charm with modern luxury. From sweeping South Luangwa vistas to intimate safaris and refined design, this iconic lodge offers a regal yet soulful escape into Africa’s wild heart.
CRUISES
Diane Tierney
24
Polar expeditions meet five-star indulgence on Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot — from Michelinstar dining and serene spas to heated infinity pools, all wrapped in the ship’s icebreaking power and pioneering spirit.
PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY 30
Yasser Alaa Mobarak
Journey through French Polynesia in a stunning photo essay by award-winning photographer Hadriel Torres—capturing ancient traditions, island beauty, and the vibrant spirit of the Marquesas and beyond.
SCOTLAND 44
Andrew Marshall
Island-hop through Scotland’s southern Hebrides, where artisan cheese, oysters, and smoky single malts await. From Mull to Islay and Jura, discover a journey rich in flavor, tradition, and breathtaking coastal scenery.
GREECE 66
Marcia Kimpton
Explore Athens through its Michelinstarred dining, vibrant art scene, and hidden creative voices. From Acropolis views to underground studios, discover a city where history, food, and artistry pulse in harmony.
SARDINIA 50
Iris Brooks
From ancient Nuragic ruins to singing stone sculptures, Sardinia dazzles with history, art, food, and Blue Zone longevity secrets — a Mediterranean island where tradition and transformation live side by side.
Cruise west from Toronto, discover three Lake Huron gems—Kincardine, Bayfield, and Grand Bend—offering summer charm, shoreline beauty, and unforgettable road trip vibes. Steve Drake
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TRAVEL GEAR
LEGO HERSCHEL HERITAGE YOUTH BACKPACK
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COLUMBIA MEN’S PFG WILD CAST™ SUN SHIRT
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Your go-to sun shirt for outdoor exploration: UPF 50 protection, fast-drying cooling fabric, and thoughtful travel touches like thumb-cover sleeves and a sunglasses loop. Lightweight and stretchy, it handles heat, movement, and long sunny hours with ease—whether you’re casting off the dock or trekking coastal trails.
TRAVEL GEAR
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What could we possibly say about Helsinki? If we start talking about it, we might never stop! My husband, Michael, and I recently had the opportunity to visit Helsinki and experience Pride, along with an incredible art festival, the Helsinki Biennial. We left Portland in our usual travel state: overpacked, under-rested, and pretending we wouldn’t immediately reorganize our carry-ons as soon as we boarded the plane.
When we finally arrived in Helsinki, we were ready to hit the ground running. Checking into the Hobo Helsinki, pride flags were already flying outside as a drag queen prepared to start the evening’s Drag Bingo. I felt like I had walked into a party in the lobby. I quickly found out that Hobo Helsinki, a modern and quite popular hotel in the center of Helsinki, is not only a trendy place to stay, but a community venue of sorts. Throughout the week, they host workshops, community gatherings, parties, and more. However, our room up on the 5th floor was a quiet and pristine escape with views
BY MATTHEW SCHUELLER
HELSINKI
DOESN’T TRY
TO BE PERFECT. IT
ALLOWS PEOPLE TO BE HUMAN
HELSINKI
of Helsinki’s popular shopping street, Aleksanderinkatu. Across the street, I spotted Fazer Cafe, which I promptly turned to Michael as he lay down in bed for a 15-minute post-flight nap and snapped, “Cafe, across the street–need coffee and food now.” Much to my surprise, he was up in 2 seconds flat, ready to eat! We strolled into Fazer and were overwhelmed with the scent of espresso and chocolate. Unknowingly, we just strolled into not only a cafe, but their flagship chocolate shop. So, it felt like it was meant to be! I ordered an open-
faced rye sandwich with fresh shrimp salad spread over the top, garnished with dill. To drink, a double-shot cappuccino mixed with Fazer’s signature milk chocolate.
Re-energized, we sat across the marble table and discussed the game plan for the week. Arriving at a European city we’d yet to visit, we were more than happy to have an itinerary planned for us prior to arriving. This week, especially, was going to be a big one. Midsummer just passed days before, and now
we’re here not only to experience Pride in Helsinki, but to see some of the top sights, eat at top restaurants, and embrace the fact that we’re in Finland, the happiest country on earth. Finland has been crowned the happiest country on earth for years. People often debate this in the comments. My theory is simple: Helsinki doesn’t try to be perfect. It simply allows people to be human. To belong, exist, and exhale.
I had a list, an agenda of sorts, of things I wanted to experience and feel: Pride week, sauna heat, the cold of the Baltic, that breath of clean pine-scented air that makes you think you’ve been breathing wrong all this time at home. We caught the train, which rolled us through the center, where trams crisscross like neat handwriting. Michael clocked the first design-y detail within minutes… how the stations feel like living rooms more than stops. “It’s like the city expects people to actually exist here,” he said. “Not just pass through.”
For dinner, we made a reservation at Savoy, a restaurant that has been writing the city’s culinary story since the 1930s. The dining room,
recently renovated, is absolutely timeless. It looks cinematic, like straight out of a movie. We sat on the balcony overlooking Esplanadi, Helsinki’s main thoroughfare. The esplanade leading from the historic Swedish Theater to the harbor is, from what I’ve heard, Helsinki’s place to see and be seen. It’s perfect for people-watching. Additionally, the facades of the buildings surrounding it create a stunning backdrop for those enjoying the walkway. Chef Helena Puolakka’s kitchen really hit the mark–we savored an 8-course meal, each dish more surprising and delicate than the last. Salmon pastrami with dill mousse, foie gras with nectarine, venison, and locally grown green asparagus,
accompanied by a Bigarade sauce. I learned about many things on the menu on the spot, but one thing all recipes had in common was the inclusion of ethically and locally sourced ingredients. The freshness and vibrancy certainly added to the experience! Just after 11pm, with the sun still a way off the horizon, we were given a tour of Savoy’s rooftop herb garden and bee farm, seeing where some of our dinner was produced.
The next day, we took the ferry from Market Square for ten minutes of sea breeze and island views until we arrived at Lonna. The island sits like a punctuation mark just off the city, just large enough to hold a public
sauna and a restaurant. The sauna is wood-fired, gender-inclusive, and faces the Baltic, making the perfect combination of high heat and a dip in the cold. The planks were so warm beneath our feet, and we were so at peace looking out the window of the sauna to the sea, like we were peering through a picture book. Everyone was quiet in that Finnish way, not cold, but respectful. Someone tossed water on the rocks, and the room filled with steam that smelled like cedar. Experiencing a Finnish sauna out in nature like this is an experience you won’t forget!
Then the plunge. We padded outside along a stony path and lowered ourselves into the Baltic. The cold zapped like electricity. Two seconds later, my toes were tingling; I was good to go. Repeating the process, back inside to warm up, then outside to cool down. I could have stayed there a week.
The next day, another ferry to another world. Vallisaari is a green lung breathing right off the city. Meadows, ponds, fort ruins where flowers and trees spring through the cracks… It’s a natural masterpiece with free access for anyone who wants to take a walk through a forest, on an island, in a bay, in the midst of Helsinki. During
the Helsinki Biennial, the island transforms into an outdoor museum, featuring installations that rise out of grass, stone, and trees, and are situated within the fort ruins. The art pieces are interactive. You can walk inside some of them, smell others, use your hands and feet to make some move and change. Soundscapes threaded through trees as we wandered. It was an experience that both challenged our imaginations and celebrated the natural world and the creative abilities of local artists. I love cities that don’t treat art like a field trip. Here, creativity isn’t boxed. It spills out into parks, libraries, islands–the public spaces. It’s art that shows up where you already are.
Leading up to the main event, we were already excited to have the opportunity to participate in the parade alongside a group of locals. The experience blew away my expectations. Yes, plenty of places throw Pride, but Helsinki truly lives it! Yes, the flags were out, but the parade didn’t feel like sponsorships were the main point. There was no brand fighting you for your attention span here. The streets were filled with a river of 100,000 people. Families, elders, and countless members of the community all moved through a city that wasn’t policing joy but actively participating in it.
By the time we reached Kaivopuisto for the Pride Park Festival, Helsinki’s biggest park had turned into a giant picnic. Blankets with pastries and food were strewn in nearly every free space on the green. Glitter was abundant. Vendors sold food, groups of friends gathered on boulders overlooking the park and the city, and a series of performances took place on stage, echoing through the entire scene. It was amazing to see such a large, free, and community-oriented event celebrating Pride. “Safety doesn’t feel rare here. It feels like it’s the norm, which to me is wild.” — Michael, processing in real time.
Happiness is complicated for LGBTQ+ people. You learn to scan a street, much like we check the weather. But in Helsinki, my shoulders dropped a little. Our hands found each other without scanning and trying to calculate if it was a decent place to do so. If you’ve ever tried to enjoy a place while attempting to keep a part of yourself small or unnoticeable, you know what kind of luxury that is.
For our farewell dinner and grand finale, we found Nokka sitting in a historic harbor-side warehouse. The inside felt like an art piece. The
design was warm, inviting, not overproduced, but super intriguing to experience and see. The tasting menu was like an essay, covering dynamic combinations that spanned from the forest to the coast and the fields. Reindeer tataki with XO sauce and tart berries was a true highlight, as was the fish, which tasted so clean that it made me rethink the meaning of the word ‘fresh’. For dessert, I enjoyed a white chocolate mouse with rowan bud ice cream. And after dinner, we meandered over to Bar Jan Mayan across the harbor and found that the bar was on an old historic sailing ship. The drinks were delicious, and the environment was such a unique vibe. Groups of
friends huddled starboard with their drinks and blankets. It was the perfect way to have a nightcap and to end our journey through Helsinki.
We left with our skin still tingling from the Baltic. I started writing in my notebook places we didn’t get to... and Michael already started Googling places in Lapland as we sat on the tarmac waiting to take off back home. As the plane lifted over the islands, the sun cast an impossible summer-like glimmer on the water, and I thought, yeah, there are a lot of things this city provides to lend to a life of happiness. Sure, happiness can be a place, but it’s also a mindset – of taking things
slow, of feeling the sea water and walking through the woods, savoring flavors, and opting to walk down the esplanade to admire the view instead of calling an Uber. I think the way the city is built has a lot to do with setting people up to be happy, but I also think the population just has a way with gratitude–soaking in every bit of summer and sunlight and truly enjoying it. And when winter comes with endless nights, they are grateful for the time to rest and look forward to summer once again. Helsinki has a way with gratitude, and I, personally, am grateful to experience it.
ARGENTINA /16
SB WINEMAKER’S HOUSE & SPA SUITES
WHERE THE ANDES MEET ARGENTINA’S WINE COUNTRY
Set at the foothills of the Andes, Mendoza is celebrated as Argentina’s wine capital—home to world-renowned Malbec and sun-drenched vineyards. But for the active traveler, this region offers so much more. From whitewater rafting in Atuel Canyon and horseback riding across high-altitude meadows to hiking Aconcagua, the tallest peak in the Americas, Mendoza is an adventure playground framed by extraordinary natural beauty.
At the heart of it all, SB Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites offers the ultimate retreat. Created by pioneering winemaker Susana Balbo and her
daughter Ana, this boutique property redefines luxury in wine country. Housed in a restored mansion in charming Chacras de Coria, the hotel features just seven spa suites, each designed as a private sanctuary where wellness meets indulgence.
Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, private gardens with fire pits, heated loungers, and open-air showers blur the line between indoors and outdoors. Spainspired details—deep concrete tubs, sensory showers, in-room fitness and spa treatments—
SPOTLIGHT
transform each suite into a haven of relaxation after a day of mountain adventure or vineyard exploration.
Wine, naturally, is woven into the experience. Each suite’s minibar is stocked with Balbo’s award-winning vintages, and the intimate tasting room allows guests to discover rare releases. For the truly adventurous, the hotel curates “wine safaris”— extraordinary journeys that combine scenic flights over the Andes with horseback riding, trekking, and 4×4 excursions.
Whether rafting by day and tasting Malbec by night, or simply sinking into the comfort of your private suite, SB Winemaker’s House captures the very essence of Mendoza: a seamless blend of adventure, wine, and wellness.
Stay here, and discover that Mendoza is far more than a wine region—it’s a destination where every sense is awakened.
ZAMBIA
BY ALLISON FOAT
Chichele Presidential has reopened — reborn, refined and ready to reign once again from a prized hilltop disposition overlooking floodplains and forests of Zambia’s premier national park. Once a private retreat that received royalty and dignitaries, it has, over the past seven years, undergone a gradual reconstruction and the results are spectacular, heralding a masterclass in modern luxury, mid-century poise and pared-back pageantry.
Chichele was first built in 1972 at the behest of Kenneth Kaunda, Zambia’s first president post Independence. At the helm of the recent swish reimagining was the décor and design cognoscenti of the safariverse - Fox Browne Creative, architect Jack Alexander, Chiawa Safaris and a host of industry experts with an eye for harmonizing architecture with landscape. Alexander explains - “The landscape was the principal driver for the architecture and the interior design, to honor the site and near-360 views in every way possible. The natural setting also needed to speak louder than the line of the human hand.” The realized vision is a seamless coalescence of inspired contemporary design
REBORN AND REFINED, CHICHELE REIGNS OVER ZAMBIA’S WILD BEAUTY
MODERN LUXURY MEETS TIMELESS SAFARI HERITAGE IN THE SOUTH LUANGWA VALLEY
Luangwa Valley. Among them was the late Chief Nsefu, who, together with British conservationist Norman Carr, pioneered bush tourism and walking safaris into the region long before responsible tourism became a buzzword. My gratitude to these gentlemen for their environmental advocacy knows no bounds.
and comfort, underpinned by respect for people and place. From the baby grand piano replicating Kaunda’s own, to his two antique easy chairs, the handsome, oversized arched windows and the restored bar counter, yesteryear remains ever-present in ways both subtle and symbolic, and the optics are gorgeous.
“Zambia has long been known for its ruggedness and remote walking safaris,” said Grant Cumings, coowner of Chiawa Safaris, Chichele’s managing outfit. “Through evolving infrastructure and improved air access (via Proflight), a new class of lodges has emerged in Zambia that caters to guests seeking a softer, more luxurious experience.” Along with its sister camp, Puku Ridge, Chichele Presidential offers a similar experience, featuring solid structures
over tents, air-conditioning, and other creature comforts that appeal to first-time safarigoers or those simply preferring a gentler introduction to the wild side.
As much as the architecture needed an overhaul, so too did the décor. Embellishments such as trophy mounts, grim hunting photos and skins were at odds with Management’s sustainability and conservation-focused ethos. Relegating offensive trappings to the archives, Fox Browne replaced them with art, leather-bound journals, history books, sculptures and collectibles that respectfully honor the past. Vintage portraits of Kenneth Kaunda and tribal chieftains are a gracious salute to Zambian elders and to those who paved the way for travel and exploration into the pristine South
Joining the Fox Browne collective for this project was Robert Cunningham of Umdabu, specialist manufacturers of custom, natural edge furniture. Cunningham’s ability to turn fallen trees and overlooked raw materials into stunning functional fixtures is his superpower, to borrow from Lesley Fox. I particularly loved his leadwood and glass table, positioned between the two spacious lounges. Crafted from a found tree trunk sanded to the smoothest finish, it is a showstopper. To that, interiors are
a smorgasbord of textural seduction. From handwoven throws to plush carpeting, cushion covers, drapes, flat-weave towels, and embroidered napkins, every detail of furnishings is carefully considered. Many products are sourced locally too, a boost to grassroots enterprise. In fact, when you’re driving back to the airport in Lusaka, stop at Mfuwe village at stores like Tribal Textiles, responsible for the bespoke lampshades found at Chichele, and Mulberry Mongoose, which transforms lethal poachers’ wildlife snares into unique, handmade jewelry.
The twelve Vista Suites — including one exclusive-use, two-bedroom family unit — are arranged in an arc along the hillside for optimum viewing pleasure. Grounding palettes of copper, clay, and ebony emulate Zambia’s mineral-rich legacy - earthy
tones that speak to the locale perfectly. At the heart of each suite is a grand four-poster bed that faces floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors, framing the wilderness beyond. A dedicated dressing area leads into a spacious sitting room, complete with a well-stocked bar and nibbles, which in turn flows seamlessly into a luxurious bathroom with a deep soaking tub, double vanity and rain shower. From both bedroom and bathroom, you have access to a split-level patio with a generously sized plunge pool, sun loungers and an outdoor shower. The reed fringe so prevalent across the property deserves a mention as well- a deliberate and photogenic feature that pays tribute to traditional Zambian thatching. This careful layering of old and new continues throughout Chichele.
Cuisine at Chichele is exceptional, and mealtimes are festive. High tea is served with flair on the main lodge veranda — tiers of sweet and savory treats laid out against a panoramic backdrop, followed by a game of croquet on the lawn afterwards, a glass of Pimms in hand. After dinner, guests are welcomed to the boma, where a circle of sleek deck chairs surround a raised fire pit — the perfect setting for bush banter at the end of a fulfilling day. True Chichele contentment wrapped in a distinctly zen atmosphere beneath the African night sky.
Helmed by Julius Schuld and Dominique Gaines-Schuld,staff at Chichele are adept at going the extra mile, and whether front-facing or back-of-house, I found everyone to be warm and engaging. I also loved the way local talent has been drawn into the fold. Take David Mweetwawaitron, guide and self-taught artist whose wildlife paintings are sold in the lodge boutique and adorn stationery, notebooks, luggage tags and matchboxes.
South Luangwa Valley, in Zambia’s eastern reaches, is one of Africa’s richest ecosystems. Carved by the sinuous Luangwa River’s seasonal shifts, the terrain moves from lush riparian thickets to savannah and wetlands, while towering baobabs mark the landscape like ageless symbols of resilience. Expect herds of buffalo, elephant, antelope, puku, zebra and more. Never far behind
lurk the predators, with the leopard - the Chichele emblem - reigning supreme as the iconic big cat. The uncomplicated geography is well suited to walking safaris, taken under armed guard for optimum security and led by an expert Chiawa guide. For outdoor enthusiasts, going on foot is a chance to lean into nature as the curtain is pulled back on a fresh perspective. It’s all about the art of noticing and listening, and every step is a thrill.
Twitchers should note that 400 types of birds have found sanctuary in this part of the world and the Valley is one of the best places on earth to witness countless species and mass migrations. On the bird life note, set your alarm for the dawn chorus, when birdsong erupts at first light at a volume the likes of which you’ll never forget!
Chichele Presidential operates March to January due to weather conditions. For details and reservations visit www.chiawa.com
Chichele Presidential is a vivid, richly rewarding and elevated safari experience. It holds its place with regal dignity — shaped by the past, fashioned by the present and inspired by the wild it so admirably cherishes and protects.
FROM SUNRISE COFFEE TO SUNSET COCKTAILS, CHICHELE PRESIDENTIAL’S LOUNGE IS A LUXURIOUS PERCH OVER THE VAST FLOODPLAINS AND FORESTS OF SOUTH LUANGWA
CRUISE WHERE FEW HAVE VENTURED ON PONANT’S LE COMMANDANT CHARCOT LUXURY ICEBREAKER
CRUISES
If you’re inspired by the motto to ‘boldly go where no one has gone before’ check out Ponant Cruises “Le Commandant Charcot” cruise ship for an unforgettable adventure in comfort and style. Charcot’s world-class ice-breaking features means you can visit some of the most unhabitable cold regions on Earth while being warm and cozy.
Ponant leveled-up expedition cruising when it launched Charcot in 2021 as it’s the world’s first hybrid-electric LNG icebreaker cruise ship and a marvel of engineering. The ship has a Polar Class 2 rating setting itself far apart from ships with a lower Ice Class rating.
The ship also made history as the first to take passengers to the Geographic North Pole, the northernmost point on Earth, as well as the North Pole of Inaccessibility (the most northern point furthest from land).
With a capacity for 245 passengers and 230 extremely attentive crew, Charcot is ideal for cruises to Antarctica, Greenland, Iceland, Canada and other cold regions. The ship was named after the French explorer known as the ‘gentleman of the poles’.
SHIP FEATURES
The hull of this US$430 million ship is reinforced with a six-centimeter layer of steel and can slice ice as thick as 2.5 meters. It can also carry enough fuel to last about four months, has two engine rooms and two Captain’s bridges – at the bow as
BY DIANE TIERNEY
well as the stern for reverse maneuvers. Its propellers can churn ice like a blender that makes your breakfast smoothie.
Charcot also has an impressive range equipment on board such as a Canadian helicopter in a hangar below the bow for emergencies and scouting terrain, as well as an amphibious all-terrain vehicle, snowmobiles, kayaks, Zodiacs and more. The crew can also create an entire polar survival shelter camp on ice or water if needed.
There’s also a research lab to support scientific studies of climate change and marine life. An underwater drone can be dropped to about 300 feet. Passengers can visit the labs, meet the international experts and participate in some of the research methods. A portion of the cruise fare supports the research.
While the exterior is a fortress against the cold, inside is a haven of luxury in every
corner. Enjoy soaking in the two heated pools. The heated Blue Lagoon pool at the aft is infinity style that showcases gorgeous wake views. It’s surrounded by cozy white furnishings, a firepit-style heater, bar and grill. The indoor pool has a glass dome overhead letting you enjoy polar skies in comfort.
The serene spa has several treatment rooms and relaxation areas as well as a sauna, snow room and salon. The gym is on the other side of the ship and features floor-to-ceiling views.
Head to the bow’s helipad area for the best wildlife-watching spot. You’ll have a front row view of the ice floes and wildlife. Heated outdoor benches placed in various areas help you stay warm while breathing in the crisp fresh air.
DINING
Ponant partnered with Michelin star chef Alain Ducasse – more than 21 stars received and has about 30 restaurants – to bring gourmet French cuisine on board at all three restaurants.
Nuna features sophisticated cuisine in an elegant dining room with wake views. Sila offers an upscale buffet and has aft views, as well as a large window of the Captain’s second bridge. For casual alfresco dinning, Inneq serves grilled fare beside the pool or indoors.
BARS AND LOUNGES
The Observation Lounge on deck nine overlooks the bow and helipad. This is the most popular spot for its panoramic views, sumptuous furnishings, bar offerings and live music.
The Main Lounge on deck five is just as beautiful with its steam fireplace to enjoy drinks, musicians and special events such as champagne celebrations.
Near the indoor pool there’s also a Detox Bar for smoothies.
ENTERTAINMENT
The 276-seat theatre features performances by a small troupe of talented singers, dancers and musicians and the shows are low-key and high-brow from ballroom dancers to opera singers. The space doubles as a venue for movies and lectures with guest speakers ranging from ecologists to astronauts.
STATEROOMS
There are 123 staterooms in six categories, each featuring a private balcony or terrace. They range from 215 square feet to the 1,157-square-foot Owner’s Suite that also has a 2,000-square-foot terrace with a hot tub. Butler service is included with some staterooms.
For voyages crossing rough seas like the Drake, there are also large staterooms strategically placed on deck six to minimize the motion and ensure a smoother journey.
As a testament to the ship’s preparedness, each stateroom has full-body orange survival suits in duffel bags under the bed.
While on board don’t be surprised if you start thinking about the epic disaster movie called “2012” starring John Cusack that had massive arks – and decide that this is the ship to book if that happens.
YASSER ALAA MOBARAK
El-Max Lighthouse, West Alexandria, Egypt
MOBARAK A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY
YASSER ALAA MOBARAK IS AN AWARD-WINNING PHOTOGRAPHER FROM ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT. HE HAS WON PHOTOGRAPHY PRIZES FROM TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC AND SONY WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS. HE IS VISITING INSTRUCTOR AT DELHI COLLEGE OF PHOTOGRAPHY IN INDIA AND LICENTIATE OF ROYAL PHOTOGRAPHIC SOCIETY IN UK.
WEBSITE: YASSERALAAMOBARAK.COM INSTAGRAM: @YASSERALAAMOBARAK
Birqash Camel Market, Giza
Great Sphinx Of Giza
Al-Qanawi Festival, Qena, Upper Egypt
Al-Hakim Mosque, Cairo
Guardian Of Mortuary Temple Of Hatshepsut In Luxor
Qena, Upper Egypt
Siwa Oasis
Monastery of Saint Bishoy, Wadi El Natrun
SCOTLAND
BY ANDREW MARSHALL
To the west, the silvery Atlantic, flecked with the small islands of Tiree, Iona, Colonsay, Islay and Jura stretches away to the horizon and unseen to the south are the mist enshrouded hills of Ireland. I’m on the top deck of the ‘Oban to the Isle of Mull’ ferry, our hire car safely stored in the vehicle hold below. It’s the start of my island-hopping journey, one with a uniquely Scottish flavor.
For the gourmet traveler, this cluster of isles off Scotland’s southwest coast has all the right ingredients; spectacular scenery, colorful fishing villages, turquoise waters, lonely beaches of pure white sand, friendly locals, world-class single malts and wonderful local food.
With its brightly-painted houses set in a sheltered bay surrounded by steep hills, there are few prettier island introductions
than the port of Tobermory on the Isle of Mull. My first food stop is the famous Fishermen’s Pier Fish & Chip Van. A crowd of visitors sit on the steps of the nearby clock tower, tucking into trays of fish and chips that have won numerous national awards.
“The fish comes straight off the boats and is cooked to order in a light crispy batter,” says part-time worker Ronnie Menmuir.
“We also offer fish sandwiches, scallops, haggis, scampi and tiger prawns. It’s so popular that I’ve seen queues down to the telephone box in the summer months. One of our most famous customers was Prince Charles who placed an order for some local scallops when he visited.”
Admittedly, food never used to be on the tip of the tongue when it came to great reasons to visit Scotland and few people know much about the Scottish table beyond the traditional dishes of fish
ONE WHISKY DISTILLERY, ONE PUB, 5000 DEER AND 200 PEOPLE WELCOME TO JURA
and chips, porridge and black pudding. Blessed with the warming effects of the Gulf Stream and experiencing milder winters than the mainland, there’s some splendid local produce on offer: Aberdeen Angus and Highland cattle beef, salmon smoked over oak logs, award-winning cheeses, oysters, handdived scallops, wild game, venison and fantastic salt-marsh lamb.
Isle of Mull Cheese and Spirit situated in the hills above Tobermory typifies a growing number of enthusiastic local food producers scattered throughout the islands. When I arrive, husband-andwife team Jeff and Chris Reade are busy organizing a big cheese order. “We’ve got a hundred of these cheeses to get out today,” says Jeff, pointing to some bowed shelves weighed down by cylinders of cheese, each coming in at a hefty 22 kg each. Nimble as a cat, Chris climbs the shelves to take a sample, by expertly pressing a ‘cheese iron’ into one of the cloth-bound cylinders. “We are looking for a good texture, and for the flavor to linger,” she tells me.
Made from the milk of the farm’s own mixed herd, which includes Ayrshire, Jersey and Brown Swiss cows, the cattle are fed on ‘draff’ from the whisky distilleries to produce a distinctive pale cheddar color. “We strive to keep the cheese as natural as possible, with the only added ingredients being rennet and salt,” says Jeff. The result is a strong flavorsome cheese of excellent quality with a delicious crumbly texture that’s won gold at the Paris Cheese Exhibition. They also produce a unique punchy spirit made from whey (the liquid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained) to accompany their award-winning cheese. The farm welcomes visitors most days of the year - there is a farm shop and café, and tours of the dairy and distillery are also available.
On the nearby island of Islay, the most southerly island of the Hebrides archipelago, oysters are a specialty, and an excellent place to sample these succulent molluscs along with other local produce is the Oyster Shed at Craigens Farm, Loch Gruinart (about 45 min by car from Persabus) - a simple, rustic farm shop and takeaway with outdoor seating where you can choose from a delicious menu of oysters harvested daily, crab,
mussels, pulled beef, lamb, homemade breads and soups, and delicious home baking.
The oysters are farmed just down on the shore below. They are bought in at thumbnail size (around 8-10gms) and grown on a trestle in the sea till they reach about 100gms each. The water temperature is so warm (about 17-18 degrees Celsius) that the oysters never stop growing. Oysters go great with a wee splash of whisky, especially a Bowmore Darkest - another classic Islay product.
Islay is renowned for its smoky, singlemalt whiskies and with seven distilleries, there’s ample opportunity to sample some. Founded in 1779, the Bowmore Distillery is a ‘must visit’ if only for its lovely setting on the shores of Loch Indaal. Maltman Eddie MacAffer is ‘on the shovel’ when I arrive. “Bowmore is one of only a handful of Scottish distilleries to still produce its own floor malted barley,” he says, laboriously turning the barley using a traditional wooden malt shovel. Take a tour to gain a better understanding of the malting process and how whisky is made.
From Islay, it’s a hop, skip and a jump to Jura, a mountainous island wilderness of 5000 deer, 200 people, one whisky distillery and a pub. It’s a Friday night at the Jura Hotel, the hub of social life in these parts. There’s a mixed clientele in the cozy interior: fly fishermen, whisky enthusiasts, distillery workers, gamekeepers, hikers and gourmet travelers. After ordering a wee dram of Jura Superstition, I fall into a conversation about venison with retired under keeper George McDougall.
“The deer aren’t daft. They have an instinct. They know when it’s the stalking season and disappear into the mountains,” he says. “In the winter the deer are quite bold and come down to the shoreline to eat seaweed and lichen which gives the meat a distinctive flavor. My stepfather always used to say he could tell the difference between Jura venison and mainland venison. Have you tried the venison pie yet? You’ll have to stay a few more days and work your way through the menu,” he says we a wee smile..
Caledonian MacBrayne or Calmac (Hebridean & Clyde Ferries) sails to around 30 destinations off Scotland’s West Coast (including the ones mentioned in this feature). They also offer a fantastic range of islandhopping tickets (hopscotch routes) which allow you to plan your own trip and visit the beautiful west coast islands at your own pace. Most services carry vehicles and passengers. calmac.co.uk
SARDINIA
TRADITION
& TRANSFORMATION
BY IRIS BROOKS SARDINIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM - NUORO
Can you imagine 350 types of bread on one island? We are not talking about a slang word for money, but braided, ringed, long and narrow, round and flat, puffed or unleavened as well as some artfully sculpted ones with pinhole dots, geometric patterns, and reference to animals or actual eggs for Easter. They are all exhibited at the stunning, expansive Sardinian Ethnographic Museum in Nuoro. And there are even ancient, decorative bread stamps showcasing a pattern reminiscent of an Oreo cookie, displayed at the archaeological museum in the capital city of Cagliari.
In Sardinia–a Mediterranean island 120-miles off the west coast of Italy–bread-making is a participatory tradition, often shared as a communal activity. Any ceremonial occasion (weddings, religious rites, New Year’s festivities) provides a time for a distinct bread. Some are stamped with bread designs; others require special tools or scissors to create fanciful forms. Sardinian breads may be stuffed with ricotta cheese or raisins, requiring them to be eaten fresh as opposed to those packed for extended journeys by shepherds, where the texture is a drier consistency. There is no
CAN
YOU IMAGINE 350 TYPES OF BREAD ON ONE ISLAND?
mention of carbs here in a land with a profusion of tasty breads.
The Sardinian Ethnographic Museum in Nuoro (previously named the Costume Museum or the Museum of Sardinian Popular Life and
Traditions), has much to offer beyond bread. It is a place to view striking textiles (carpets, coffin covers, saddle bags, bed covers, delicate lacework) and regional outfits with over 800 costumes showcasing a large array of headwear ranging from bonnets, caps, and kerchiefs to embroidered silk satin hats. The museum also features elements of folk traditions encompassing masks and musical instruments such as drums and the polyphonic launeddas, triple-piped, reeded, cane wind instruments.
Items from daily life of rural villagers, sometimes called upon for pagan ceremonies, are noteworthy. At Carnival of Mamoiada, local participants wear dark sheepskins and are laden with heavy bundles of bronze cow or sheep bells representing animal forces driving evil away along with winter. Shadowy masks (for disguise, decoration, or symbolic meaning) complete the outfit as community members dance and act out dramas both serious and playful. The festival also honors Mother Nature in a seasonal procession welcoming the new harvest.
Without leaving the museum, you may view short films documenting an assortment of regional festivals celebrated throughout the island. There are visual displays of artifacts (clay statuettes or bottle-shaped idols for healing) and crafts (finely produced clay lamps and beaked jugs, some displaying engraved
motifs) in a museum illuminating genuine, local traditions both seen and heard. This includes masks with teeth and tattoos to scare away intruders and protect the dead as they slept. And the pastoral sounds of bells echo with the gentle animals heard in nearby fields, where bells serve as identifying eco-locators.
SOUND GARDEN – SAN SPERATE
Sound takes center stage for a hidden treasure in San Sperate. For those interested in hearing unusual, one-of-a-kind musical instruments created on the island, a visit to San Sperate is highly recommended to experience the Sound Garden. This timeless, open-air sculpture park was created by visionary artist Pinuccio Sciola. The late sculptor believed in the power of art and nature to transform people.
Sciola felt stones were more than an element in a landscape, instead embodying the memory of the universe. He carved limestone and basalt sculptures where giant boulders seem to sing otherworldly songs in a natural setting
accompanied by the fragrant scent of nearby citrus trees.
“Stones are the world’s spine,” said sound sculptor Sciola. His melodic, monolithic artworks/installations have been exhibited throughout the world. But the village of San Sperate was his true inspiration and first canvas.
The public is invited into the sound garden, where they are introduced to the reverberant sculptures by a trained guide who demonstrates them. It is a place to appreciate the work of this master artist, selfdescribed as a student who attended the “University of Nature” before studying at the Art School of Cagliari and Academy of Salzburg.
His murals may also be viewed in this “Museum Town,” only a 20-minute car ride from the capital city of Cagliari. Without visiting an art
gallery, strolling through the village is a chance to appreciate hundreds of street paintings adorning facades of buildings in a style which is now known as Italian Muralism. Sciola was instrumental in creating this movement, which spread to other villages such as Orgosolo and Urzueli with subjects ranging from politics to playful portraits and pastoral scenes along with poems by Pablo Neruda and paintings of mythological birds.
NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM – CAGLIARI
Sardinia is a place to peel back layers of history and heritage spanning 7000 years. It is an island on which you can travel back in time to a prehistoric era before written language or records. The story unfolds with artifacts offering clues about daily life with functions
in civic, funerary, and magicalreligious ceremonies.
An overview of these ancient finds may be viewed in Sardinia’s capital city of Cagliari on the southern portion of the island at the engaging National Archaeological Museum. The impressive facility exhibits cultural objects from many civilizations: the Neolithic (obsidian tools), Bronze Age (beaked jugs), and Iron Age (decorative bread stamps) as well as Roman (carved white marble sarcophagus, mosaic floor and wall panels), and Medieval period (paintings and Byzantine cult objects).
Also on exhibit are images of Neolithic stone female figures thought to be mother goddesses, along with bronze statuettes, votive offerings, and Moorish ceramics. There are important collections of Nuragic stone warriors, Punic oil
lamps, jewelry, and health idols in the form of clay statuettes. Masks to scare away evil spirits are also housed here.
Traditions are on full display from ancient archaeological sites with information about megalithic monuments of the Nuragic civilization to ethnographic exhibits with evidence of trade from the Phoenicians and Carthaginians (handicrafts) as well as Greek (among the richest collection of ancient Greek civilization) and Etruscan wares (fabrics, pottery, and ointment jars) in a museum complex incorporating this inspiring archaeological museum with a panoramic view of the environs. It is a cultural and historic landmark showcasing cherished gems in a journey through the ages.
SU NURAXI - BARUMINI
Excavation sites are a must-see to retrace human history back to prehistoric times. The Nuragic
civilization is known for their architecture of stone Nuraghi, a thriving settlement site interpreted as having multiple functions: community life, food storage, farming, livestock raising, craft production, and control of territory.
A prime example of these fortified stone structures (originally built without mortar) may be seen at the 1997-designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Su Nuraxi in Barumini. With architectural stonework in towers, turreted walls, and steep limestone steps, it is the most complete human settlement of ancient community life dating back to the 15th century BC. It also reveals evidence of nature and water divinity worship while resonating with a sense of grandeur. The Nuragic civilization provides clues about everyday life of clans with samples of pottery decorated or incised in geometric designs and banded motifs. There are strategic defensive structures, food, and tools, as well as sacred well temples and limestone
cave sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes a required guided tour of the site.
Archaeological finds scattered throughout this large mountainous island are dominated by items from the Nuragic civilization spanning the Bronze and Iron Ages. Their megalithic constructions (many of which have not been excavated) inform us about domestic activities in prehistoric times. Some archaeological finds, such as amber necklaces indicate trade with other parts of the world such as mainland Italy and central Europe, confirming Sardinia was not a completely isolated island. A guide can help interpret and demystify the site, which at first glance may just appear to be piles of rocks. Some researchers even suggest the bath next to the oven could indicate a setup for a very early spa treatment!
To see a different type of ancient stone, head northeast to the Gallura region, not far from the captivating
Emerald Coast (a symbol of elite tourism with elegant seaside resorts). A dramatic, huge granite rock sculpted by wind and water is found in Arzachena on the northern part of the island. Their Fungus Rock–a symbol of the town and prominent natural landmark–has served as a temporary shelter since 4000 BC. In the local Sardinian language the name translates as “a hill with a hat.” This extraordinary, large, mushroom-shaped stone is adored by both visitors and locals. And it is photogenic from many angles while sitting prominently atop a hill in a park above the town.
BLUE ZONE – DORGALI
Sardinia is endowed with an unspoiled environment featuring dramatic rock formations in the northern Valley of the Moon and an impressive Emerald coastline painted in hues of blues and greens.
More than an idyllic resort paradise permeated with perfect weather, it is also a designated Blue Zone, one of five in the world boasting a conducive setting facilitating longevity.
Some of the oldest people in the world thrive here in isolated, tightknit communities in and around Dorgali. Participating in purposeful activities (weaving and gardening) and eating a mostly plant-based diet (with pecorino sheep cheese and goat milk) as they navigate the rocky terrain each day in a shepherds’ culture, are ingredients to the low-stress, long lives of the nonagenarians and centenarians on this tranquil island. The S’abba Frisca Park and Museum in Dorgali is a place to begin, introducing the area, its rural life, livestock, antique tools, crafts such as basket-making, and local cuisine available in their outdoor pavilion.
To experience nature and authentic aspects of a longevity community, where elders are respected and revered in multi-generational families, sharing values and traditional lore, consider a niche tour with Sardinia Zona Blue (www. sardinialongevitytours.com ). They offer an opportunity to partake in the local hospitality, view folk dancing, and appreciate the slow rhythms of the Sardinian lifestyle. While you may not be able to package Blue Zone longevity, you can bring home a box of the thin, crispy carasau bread as a tasty reminder of traditional Sardinia, a transformative island accented with the beauty of the natural world and imbued with an extensive, colorful history and heritage.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Valkarana in San’t
Antonio di Gallura Charming, romantic, luxury boutique resort with attractive landscaping and superb dining is in the northern part of the island on Lake Liscia. valkarana.com/
Corte Bianca in Cardedu
Adults-only, sprawling beach resort on the Eastern coast offers an outdoor, relaxing pool complex, excellent dining, and inviting ambience. hotelcortebianca.it/en/
Hotel Su Nuarxi in Barumini
Traditional small, simple, family hotel with folk art and organic farm is located in close proximity to the UNESCO archaeological Su Nuraxi Site in south central Sardinia. sunuraxi.it/
I Love Art B&B in Cagliari
Graced with attractive art and décor, this reasonably priced, well-situated city B&B, is on a walking street in the southern part of island. info.iloveart.ovh/
Una T Hotel in Cagliari Upscale, international hotel in the capital city has an in-house parking lot, an extensive lobby featuring changing art displays, full-service dining, and a wellness spa. thotel.it/
PRIVATE ISLAND RETREATS
BY STEVE DRAKE
For those who seek the pinnacle of exclusivity, privacy, and luxury, a private island retreat is the ultimate travel experience. These secluded paradises offer more than just a getaway—they provide an escape into a world of unspoiled beauty, bespoke service, and unrivaled tranquility. Unlike bustling resorts or five-star hotels in crowded destinations, private islands allow guests to immerse themselves in nature without distractions, ensuring a stay that is as peaceful as it is indulgent. Whether nestled in the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, hidden away in the South Pacific, or perched in the Caribbean, these islands redefine what it means to travel in style.
Imagine waking up to the sound of gentle waves lapping against a pristine shore, with no other guests in sight. Picture dining under the stars with a personal chef curating every detail of your meal, or embarking on an underwater adventure where the only other beings in sight are vibrant schools of tropical fish. Private island resorts offer a level of exclusivity that goes beyond luxury—they are designed for those who appreciate solitude, personalized service, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Whether you’re celebrating a honeymoon, planning a serene wellness retreat, or organizing a lavish family escape, these breathtaking destinations cater to every desire.
From royal honeymoon hideaways to billionaire-owned playgrounds, each of these private islands offers something unique, yet they all share a common thread—absolute privacy and opulence beyond imagination. Here’s a look at some of the most spectacular private island resorts in the world, where unparalleled luxury meets untouched beauty.
NORTH ISLAND, SEYCHELLES – A ROYAL ESCAPE
Far out into the Indian Ocean lies North Island, which gained worldwide fame as the honeymoon destination of Prince William and Kate Middleton. This highly elite retreat consists of just 11 luxurious villas, each specially designed to blend seamlessly into the island’s lush environment. Guests enjoy personal butlers, exquisite dining, and endless opportunities for adventure—whether it’s diving into the crystal-clear waters or exploring the island’s wildlife with conservationists.
Why Go?
• Personalized experiences tailored to each guest
• Pristine beaches and spectacular marine biodiversity
• Complete solitude with a touch of royalty
LAUCALA ISLAND, FIJI – WHERE NATURE AND LUXURY INTERSECT
Laucala Island, owned by Red Bull co-founder Dietrich Mateschitz, is a tropical paradise that redefines exclusivity. With just 25 opulent villas scattered across white sand beaches, overwater bungalows, and lush rainforest, this resort offers guests unparalleled privacy and luxury. From an 18-hole championship golf course to horseback riding along the shore, every detail is curated for a one-of-a-kind experience. The farm-to-table dining, sourced from the island’s own gardens, completes this lavish retreat.
Why Go?
• Unmatched Fijian hospitality in a breathtaking setting
• Private submarine excursions for an extraordinary underwater adventure
• Farm-fresh, gourmet dining at its finest
VELAA PRIVATE ISLAND, MALDIVES – THE ULTIMATE INDULGENCE
Hidden within the Noonu Atoll, Velaa Private Island takes Maldivian luxury to new heights. Designed for the world’s elite, this resort offers a private golf academy, a cuttingedge spa with a snow room, and an overwater teppanyaki restaurant. The 47 villas and residences come with private pools, 24/7 butler service, and direct access to pristine white sand beaches.
Why Go?
• The most exclusive retreat in the Maldives, designed for ultimate luxury
• Innovative overwater dining and bespoke gourmet experiences
• Tailored wellness programs, including yoga, spa therapies, and Ayurvedic treatments
NECKER ISLAND, BVI – SIR RICHARD BRANSON’S PLAYGROUND
Owned by billionaire Richard Branson, Necker Island epitomizes exclusivity. This private 74-acre paradise accommodates up to 48 guests, making it ideal for private celebrations and elite gatherings. Guests can enjoy activities such as kite surfing, snorkeling with sea turtles, and sunset yacht cruises—all while being catered to by a world-class culinary team. For those who don’t book the entire island, special “Celebration Weeks” allow individual travelers to experience this extraordinary retreat.
Why Go?
• The ultimate private island party experience
• Access to premium water sports, wildlife encounters, and first-class amenities
• Breathtaking ocean views from every corner of the island
CANADA
BY STEVE DRAKE
We rolled out of Toronto just after sunrise, coffee in hand, playlists queued, and the 2025 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV NOIR humming beneath us. The city faded in the rear-view as we pointed west toward Lake Huron’s famous shoreline. Three days, three beach towns—Kincardine, Bayfield, and Grand Bend—each with their own vibe. And one seriously dialed-in road trip machine to get us there.
The Drive: Comfort Meets Capability
The NOIR edition is all about presence— black accents, black wheels, and a stealthy look that catches eyes at every gas station (not that we stopped much, thanks to the hybrid system). With its 61 km of
all-electric range and nearly 650 km total range, the Outlander PHEV let us cruise green and clean without range anxiety. The Super All-Wheel Control kept things smooth even when we detoured down some back-roads near Goderich just to chase a sunset.
Inside, the cabin was a road trip dream: quilted leather seats, wireless Apple CarPlay, and a panoramic sunroof that gave us sky views all the way. Rear passengers sprawled out with plenty of legroom and dual-zone climate control kept the whole crew happy. Add in MI-PILOT Assist—adaptive cruise with lane centering—and the 3-hour drive felt effortless.
Stop #1: Kincardine –Lighthouse Views and Laid-Back Vibes
Kincardine is where time slows down and the lake takes over. We started at the Kincardine Lighthouse, climbing the spiral staircase for panoramic views of the harbor and shoreline. The historic building dates back to the 1800s, and it’s still a symbol of the town’s Scottish heritage.
The waterfront was alive with activity— families building sandcastles, kayakers cruising by, and paddleboards dotting the blue. Station Beach was the perfect spot for a swim, and the beach-side boardwalk gave us front-row seats to the crashing waves.
We grabbed a late lunch from Erie Belle, an old-school fish and chips spot that feels like a portal to the past. As evening came, the town lit up with music. Every summer Saturday, the Kincardine Scottish Pipe Band parades down Queen Street in full regalia—kilts, bagpipes, the works. It’s quirky, loud, and totally unforgettable.
THREE
DAYS THREE BEACH TOWNS
Stop #2: Bayfield – Boutique Streets and Sunset Serenity
Bayfield felt like walking into a postcard. We parked the Outlander near Main Street, plugged it in at one of the local charging stations, and strolled through town. Art galleries, handmade crafts, and vintage bookstores lined the street, with flower baskets overhead and old-growth trees shading the sidewalks.
We stopped into Shopbike Coffee Roasters for a quick cold brew, then made our way to River Road Brewing & Hops just outside town for a casual beer tasting. Their farm-to-glass vibe is as local as it gets. Back in town, we hit Bayfield Beach for a quiet swim in the calm, shallow water—perfect for a slow float or a sandy picnic.
Dinner was on the patio at The Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro, where we tried locally sourced lamb burgers and Ontario wine. As dusk fell, we walked back to The Little Inn for a quiet evening. Peaceful, low-key, and full of charm.
Stop #3: Grand Bend – Energy, Sun, and a Beach Day Blowout
Sunday brought the heat—and Grand Bend brought the party. Known for its wide, bustling beach and upbeat energy, this was the spot to go all in on summer. We parked the Outlander just off Main Street, where beachwear shops, ice cream stands, and patios spilled over with music and people.
Grand Bend Main Beach is massive, with soft sand and clear blue water, and it’s one of the only Blue Flag beaches in the region. We rented jet skis for an hour of full-throttle fun on the lake, then cooled off with frozen lemonades and peoplewatching from the boardwalk.
The afternoon was made for lounging, and with the Outlander’s cargo space, we had no problem bringing beach chairs, umbrellas, and even a pop-up tent. If we’d brought bikes, the roof rails would’ve made loading easy too.
Before heading home, we grabbed burgers and onion rings at Denny’s DriveIn, a local classic, then took one last walk along the dunes. Grand Bend had the most energy, and it delivered the kind of summer Sunday that sticks with you long after you leave.
Final Stretch
The road home carried us quietly back to Toronto, the sun sinking low in our mirrors. No fatigue. No rush, no stress—just memories made and a few new tan lines.
/66BY MARCIA KIMPTON
GREECE
I love Greece. I have been to this wonderful country on the Aegean Sea ten times, and have visited Hydra, Santorini, Mykonos, Peloponnese, Icaria--as well as lived on the magical spiritual island Patmos for 5 months. I even filmed my movie “AN AMERICAN ABROAD”, releasing this fall, on both Hydra and Patmos.
As one who has traveled to more than 40 countries around the world, my best advice for truly getting to know a country is through its art and its food. When it comes to Greece, there are so many marvelous things to focus on, but I wanted to write about Athens and the artists living there because everyone flies into Athens en route to the islands.
The city is named after Athena, the goddess of wisdom and strategy, who, according to myth, planted the olive trees to symbolize peace and prosperity. Athena also
stood for art, philosophy, and democracy; thus, she is my favorite goddess. Almost everyone visits the Parthenon, the great temple at the Acropolis, which is dedicated to Athena. I have lost count of how many times I have gone because it’s always powerful.
I usually stay at the world-famous luxurious Grand Bretagne, because of its view of the Acropolis, but on my recent visit in June, I thought I would change it up and stay at the Zillers Boutique Hotel, beautifully designed in an old Athenian home with only ten rooms, which also has a view of this ancient temple in the Plaka area. I have stayed at the very affordable 360 hotel, which is a great rock n roll, hip, retro boutique budget hotel just below the Acropolis with an outstanding rooftop bar (and it is such a gem you must book months in advance).
I set a goal for the 3-day visit, which was to discover the artists and top restaurants in this 5,000 BCE area
that has been the center of artistic creation for over 2,500 years. Since chefs are also artists, let’s begin with my outstanding culinary experiences, which I was fortunate enough to enjoy by visiting only Michelin-starred restaurants. Even though there are many great restaurants in Athens, I decided (at least on this trip) to focus solely on gourmet food. I had 3 nights in a row with only Michelinrated chefs at Markris, Zillers rooftop, and Soil.
Thus, I began my journey with Markris--which turned out to be my favorite of the three amazing restaurants, if I had to choose one. This was so very difficult because each restaurant had its own unique menu and presentation. I had the great fortune to meet the extraordinary Chef Petros Dimas, who became famous at the London Aquivit, He started at the Makris
THE BEST WAY TO KNOW A COUNTRY IS THROUGH ITS ART AND FOOD
in Corfu only to move to Athens to compete with the top chefs by bringing his innovative approach to “Farm-to-Table.” Dimas utilizes ingredients from the restaurant’s organic farm in Corfu and local producers from all the islands, and obtained his Michelin star in 15 months from starting this restaurant. I chose the Utopia 11 course meal, and it was heaven, which makes it impossible to highlight just one dish. I loved choosing from the long list
of olive oils for my bread, which felt like choosing a wine when the waiter described the different varietals. The restaurant has a beautiful view of the Acropolis, and it is also situated in a historic former inn, where guests can view ancient remains through a glass floor while facing the archeological site. The wine list included over 300 selections. I decided not to pair the wines, because they opened a great white wine from Santorini after hearing I love French Burgundy, and I just couldn’t move on from it.
My second choice would be Zillers, the rooftop restaurant at the hotel I stayed at, which also had a beautiful view of the Acropolis. On this night, I decided to do the Synthesis menu, which is 11or 14 courses all paired with a wine. The Greek wine list was so outstanding that I had to take pictures of every label for
my next trip to Greece (since they don’t export their best wines), and thus, the reputation for their wine is not very good. The highlight of all the courses was Verno from Vitsi, which was wild mushrooms with fresh truffles and aged arsenic from Naxos. The service, the food, and the presentation were all exceptional. The chef, Vasilis Roussos, was awarded the Michelin star in 2022 and has maintained it through 2024.
Soil was my third favorite restaurant with the amazing Chef Tasos Mantis, who was recommended by the Grand Bretagne hotel and was featured everywhere online. This Michelin-starred establishment, known for its “earthy gastronomy,” used ingredients sourced from Chef Mantis’s father’s garden in Alepochori village. It also received the only Green Star in the Athens
Michelin Guide 2022. This Green Star highlights its exceptional commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices. The restaurant is outside the city center, in the Pangrati neighborhood, so it requires a taxi to this very hip, happening part of town. It is located in a restored neoclassical house, and I highly recommend asking to be seated in the beautiful, romantic outdoor patio surrounded by orange trees.
I must also mention Executive Chef Asterios Koutsoudis, who serves both Hotel Grande Bretagne and King George Hotel-- and I have had many great meals there while staying at both hotels.
There are numerous artists in this incredible city, which has experienced numerous economic cycles. When it crashes, art thrives. Hence, the statement “make art”
when things are tough, and I think that is the explanation for graffiti everywhere on city walls. I have dedicated my life as an artist, as a filmmaker, and I love artists, so I called the only artist I knew in Greece, Areti Chatzi, who gave me many unbelievable messages when I visited Patmos. Like most artists, they always hold another job to create their art. Areti used to be a film set designer and dancer in Athens, but has now dedicated her life to the art of holistic treatments for the mind, body, and soul through her art therapy, which combines art, creation, meditation, and massage. You can find her @AretiChatzi on IG. She introduced me to Maira Stefou, the first female DJ in Greece, and a professional painter and ceramicist who founded the art group WEDOartprojects. Maria often organizes great art fairs of the best
artists in the city and has a wealth of knowledge, especially when it comes to Greek film. She recommended the brilliant, original, and creative film called “Cheap Smokes” (free on YouTube) because she knows the legendary Greek filmmaker, Renos Haralambidis, who writes, directs, and acts in this film, made with barely any budget. My favorite thing to do when traveling is finding a film to watch native to the country I am visiting. This is also the goal with my Kimpton Travels and Film App. The highlight of my trip was meeting the Athenian artist, Maria, for dinner at Makris, where she shared her life as an artist with me. I then ventured out to her art studio on my way to the Poseidon temple. If you are interested in seeing Maria’s fantastic art you can find it @mariastefou mairastefou.com
In conclusion, I think your trip to Athens can include the phenomenal Acropolis Museum (after you’ve seen the Acropolis), but it can also include a culinary trip to many of the islands, with visits to these top restaurants. If you plan in advance, you can meet the local artists like Maira Stefou.
Around every corner of this incredible city sits an artist that the world hasn’t discovered, and a culinary adventure that truly connects you to the heartbeat of this incredible city.
TO KEEP UP WITH MARCIA AND ALL OF HER ADVENTURES YOU CAN FOLLOW ME ON IG @MARCIAKIMPTON AS WELL AS AT KIMPTON’S WORLD TRAVEL, COMEDY, AND FILM CHANNEL ON YOUTUBE. ALSO STAY TUNED FOR MY NEW FILM AN AMERICAN ABROAD RELEASING THIS FALL.
Mexico
Mexico is the ultimate holiday season escape—where sunshine replaces snow and festive traditions blend with world-class hospitality. From beachside resorts in Los Cabos and Riviera Maya to vibrant celebrations in Mexico City, travelers enjoy warm weather, rich culture, and culinary delights. Celebrate the season in unforgettable Mexican style.
DRIFT is available on PressReader
