DRIFT Travel Magazine 04-2025

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ICELAND

Ryan Connolly

Discover Iceland’s fiery landscape through the eyes of a seasoned guide, as he recounts witnessing volcanic eruptions up close—and what future travelers might expect from this ever-changing natural wonder.

ANTARCTICA

Sergi Reboredo

Experience Antarctica’s frozen frontier and witness majestic icebergs, fearless wildlife, historic research stations, and unforgettable encounters—all from the deck of an expedition ship crossing the world’s wildest seas.

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SCOTLAND 22

Andrew Marshall

Explore Scotland’s legendary North Coast 500—a breathtaking road trip filled with ancient ruins, wild beaches, whisky distilleries, and unforgettable scenery. Perfect for adventurers, photographers, and lovers of the open road.

PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY 30

Hadriel Torres

Journey through French Polynesia in a stunning photo essay by award-winning photographer Hadriel Torres—capturing ancient traditions, island beauty, and the vibrant spirit of the Marquesas and beyond.

FRANCE 4 6

Julie Leventhal

Follow a heartwarming motherdaughter adventure through Paris and the Côte d’Azur—where culture, cuisine, and coastal charm create unforgettable memories in two of France’s most iconic regions.

SWEDEN 54

Caroline Blixt

Immerse yourself in Sweden’s seamless blend of golf, design, and natural beauty—from championship fairways to Stockholm’s rooftops, island escapes, and serene spa retreats under the midnight sun.

MISSOURI 60

Nicholas McClelland

Plan the ultimate buddies golf trip to Branson, Missouri— home to world-class courses, scenic Ozark views, resort luxury, and a perfect blend of play and relaxation.

DALLAS 66

Matthew Schueller

Share this weekend in Dallas packed with bold flavors, quirky charm, luxury stays, live music, and surprising moments that redefine what a Texas getaway can be.

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ICELAND

The Eruption Begins

On Friday, the 19th of March 2021, following over 50,000 mini earthquakes in the Reykjanes Peninsula, the Fagradalsfjall volcano erupted in a blaze of glory. I was fortunate enough to visit the eruption site immediately after the local authorities opened it to the public. This was just a few days after it started. What I saw will stay with me for the rest of my life.

As I approached the eruption site, after a long hike over hills and into deep valleys through icy Icelandic weather, I was met with something hard to convey in words or even pictures. In front of me, for the first time in my life, I saw glowing spurts of lava fly high into the air in every direction while rivers of yellow, orange, and red running through the empty wilderness deep in the secluded

ICELAND'S TOURIST

FRIENDLY VOLCANO IS BUILDING UP AGAIN

Geldingadalur valley. The fissure that opened up on the ground in front of me was many hundreds of meters long, with lava flowing out of the seams.

My soon-to-be fiancée and I found a safe vantage point on a nearby hill that allowed us to get close enough, safely, to literally feel the heat of the lava on our faces. It was here, upon subsequent visits, that we got engaged. A pretty unique spot to get down on one knee, if ever there was one.

Seeing the different lava flows and crater collapses in real time was an eye-opener for someone who often discussed Iceland’s volcanoes from a historical perspective but had never experienced it firsthand. On that first visit, we would stay there for hours watching the rhythmic waves of lava fire into the air, cool as they hit the frozen earth, and craft new land as the glowing lava slowly turned into steaming rocks. Mesmerizing!

The most exciting part for me was standing alongside the fast-flowing Pahoehoe lava rivers that sped past, much like a mighty river, dodging rocks and winding through untouched Icelandic terrain. By the time we left under a starry sky, the glow could be seen for miles around, allowing our walk back to be lit ever so slightly from the volcano. I must admit that I was irreparably changed after that first day.

The Scale of the Eruption

Over the next few weeks, six unique craters would replace the wall of lava that I saw, and one by one, they would go extinct, leaving behind one distinct crater where the lava would pour out for the next six months. The eruption was small in scale compared to past eruptions in Iceland but no less impressive, especially when viewed up close. The remaining crater would eventually grow to be the size of a large building, with the escaping lava filling the surrounding lower valley levels with ease.

I must have visited the site (with and without customers) at least a dozen times by the time the first eruption ended.

In those early days, it would take you 5+ hours there and back over untouched, muddy terrain. The few tourists who managed to visit Iceland over that time often used companies like Hidden Iceland for private tours to take them there safely. For example, whenever I took people with me as a guide, I had gas masks, a gas monitor, a wilderness first aid kit, a survival pack, food, and water, and I was very comfortable navigating that terrain.

The Eruption Returns

Just for context, this was the first eruption in this part of Iceland for around 800 years, so to say it was a bit of a surprise was quite an understatement. Other parts of Iceland erupt quite regularly, but not in Reykjanes. Geological evidence suggests that once this area enters a period of renewed volcanic activity, it has been shown to continue (on and

off) for around 200 years. So many are suggesting that we have now entered a more volcanically active period in Iceland’s settlement history.

Considering there have now been 11 eruptions in this area since 2021, I find it very hard to disagree with this. Each time a new eruption occurs, it’s in a slightly different location (hence the multitude of different names associated with this volcanically rich area). However, they are still only within a few kilometers of each other, and all originate from the same magma source.

The duration of each eruption is anyone’s guess, with the most recent eruptions ranging from 2 months to 2 weeks, to a few days, and most recently, less than 24 hours. Preceding each eruption, there appears to be a noticeable buildup of pressure and magma, allowing experts to make reasonable predictions about the likelihood of it erupting again, although it is harder to provide accurate time frames beyond a few weeks.

At present, pressure has started to build again, and some locals are suggesting it will likely erupt again sometime in autumn.

What made this a touristfriendly eruption?

The term’ tourist friendly’ was banded around a lot in those first few months, mainly for marketing purposes. However, I would add a pinch of caution here. It being deemed tourist-friendly does not mean it is safe. In fact, the only way to ever witness an eruption with a reasonable level of safety is either to view it from a safe distance (hundreds of meters away) or travel with an expert local guide equipped with all the necessary safety equipment.

With that said, this particular eruption did lend itself quite nicely to allow tourists to visit the site on a regular basis. The great irony is that despite Iceland being touted as a volcanically active country (an average of 1 eruption every 4 or 5 years), this would have been the first chance for many Icelanders to see lava in real life. This is for two reasons.

Firstly, past eruptions were very hard to get to since the majority of the eruptions in Iceland were in distant, remote locations such as in the highlands of Iceland like in 2011 and 2014, or deep under glaciers like the Eyjafjallajökull 2010 eruption (the one that stopped planes from flying).

Secondly, each of these eruptions was extremely explosive in nature, sending a large number of projectiles into the air, including ash, rocks, and glowing lava. Very dangerous to be even within a few miles of an eruption of this nature. In contrast, the Reykjanes eruptions in recent years have been categorized as ‘effusive.’

Effusive eruption vs Explosive Eruption

Volcanologist and Hidden Iceland Senior Guide Dr. Holly Spice, explained the difference quite succinctly at the time:

“In this type of eruption, fluid basaltic lava is steadily erupted by fissures and/or craters and then flows away from the eruption site to form a lava field. Volcanic ash, as seen in other explosive eruptions in Iceland [such as Eyjafjallajökull in 2010], is not present here, however the emission of toxic gases can pose a hazard around the immediate eruption site.”

So, with a sense of caution, as I write this, an effusive eruption is most dangerous and destructive near the eruption and tends to be more predictable in nature. An explosive eruption tends to result from a buildup of pressure that can violently explode into the air, dragging earth, rock, and debris high into the air alongside lava and ash. These types of eruptions can have a profoundly more significant impact for miles and

miles in every direction. In fact, the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010 was this type and spewed ash so high into the air that it caused flights to be temporarily halted across much of Europe.

Will you be able to walk to the next effusive eruption if it starts again?

The short answer is it’s unclear. After the first two eruptions in the area, which occurred 6 months and 2 months apart, respectively, each subsequent eruption has been no more than 2-3 weeks apart. Pivotally, this doesn’t give the local authorities much time to put in provisions to make the site safe. Subsequent eruptions, despite being located in similar areas, have also shifted closer to the small town of Grindavík, with one of the 11 eruptions actually setting fire to a few houses, resulting in a temporary evacuation of the

town. This means that, in theory, it will now be easier to visit the eruption site than in the past, with some lucky tourists reportedly managing to drive slowly past slow-moving A’a lava during one of the more recent eruptions.

However, the local authorities have rightly determined that it is no longer safe to visit any eruption site on foot, despite the most recent eruptions being much easier to access on foot. The main reason for this is actually the topography of the landscape rather than the volcano being more or less dangerous. The most recent eruptions have been on flat ground with no natural protection. In contrast, the initial eruptions were situated in deep valleys, meaning that any poisonous gases coming from the eruption site would remain in those basins or flow predictably with the wind direction. So, all you had to do to avoid the worst of the effects of the gases was to make sure your vantage point was on the steep hills surrounding the valley. We still personally brought gas masks, just in case, every time, though we never had to use them.

These high-ground vantage points also protected you from getting too close to the lava itself (not to mention getting some incredible pictures, too).

So, if it erupts again, how do I experience it?

There is now only one safe way to visit future eruptions in this area (depending on how it erupts next time), and that is by helicopter. This is, thankfully, one of the best ways to see an eruption anyway. Many local helicopter companies will hover above the glowing lava, watching as the fresh lava sprays in every direction. The journey from the center of Reykjavík (the capital city of Iceland) to the eruption site by helicopter is a mere 10-minute flight. Only in Iceland could you be shopping on one of the most lively streets in the country, picking up some local designer apparel, then 10 minutes later be whisked off your feet over a volcano and back before you know it.

Should I book a helicopter flight before I come to Iceland?

It’s a difficult one to answer. Knowing when an eruption will occur and for how long is a difficult thing to predict, especially if the recent trends of them lasting just a few days continue. You would also be quite amazed at how quickly lava cools on the surface. It takes mere minutes for a crust to form over the top, meaning that even if you book your flight just a few days after the eruption ends, you are more likely to see steaming rocks rather than glowing lava. That is still one of the most incredible things to see, anyway, and Iceland’s landscape more than makes a helicopter ride

worthwhile, regardless. However, if you are booking the ride just for the lava, it might be best to wait until the last second and call us to get something booked.

So, my advice for anyone coming to Iceland in the near future. Plan your trip without expecting to see fresh lava, but allow yourself adequate time in the capital at the start and end of your journey so that if something does happen, you are nearby and can capitalize on it. If not, make sure to visit all the other incredible spots around the country, including the glaciers in southeast Iceland (my other passion).

ANTARCTICA

Ushuaia, the anteroom

A JOURNEY TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH TO DISCOVER THE MOST SUBLIME LANDSCAPES ON THE PLANET

If Buenos Aires is, according to the words of the French novelist André Malraux, the capital of an imaginary empire, Patagonia is, for many poets, a sea. The immensity of the horizon, a whipping wind, the almost metaphysical exile that one feels before such magnitude, and its natural landscapes that dot the territory in the form of islets support the idea of an infinite sea of astonishing emptiness. The antechamber of the overwhelming Antarctica.

The Tierra del Fuego National Park is the southernmost territory of the continent, the authentic end of the world that Jules Verne described perfectly in his novel “The Light-

house at the End of the World” set on the Isla de los Estados, in Ushuaia. It was created in 1960 and protects almost 69,000 hectares that combine marine, forest, and mountain environments, giving shape to the marine coast, lakes, valleys, extensive peat bogs, and magnificent forests dominated by lengas, cherry trees, and ñires.

A good way to discover it is to take the End of the World Train, which was built to transport wood to the infamous prison in this remote corner of the world.

Ushuaia is an industrial city that still preserves colonial vestiges. However, its great attraction lies in its surroundings: just 7 km away is the great mass of the Martial gla-

cier, and very close by is the Tierra del Fuego National Park, where the train runs. It is not difficult to find your way around its streets. It has two commercial arteries on the second line of the coast that cross the city parallel to the Beagle Channel. These are where most of the restaurants and shops are located, almost all selling crafts or sportswear for expeditionaries. It is interesting to visit the Old Prison and Reincidentes Jail, which has been converted into a museum, where you can find the most interesting places in the city.

CONQUEST OF THE SOUTH POLE

If there is one inhospitable and inaccessible place on earth, that is Antarctica. The place is a collection of extremes; on average, it is the world’s windiest, driest, and coldest continent. Despite the harsh conditions, those lucky enough to make it here are lucky enough to be able to contemplate a spectacular landscape. A land of rugged mountain peaks that contrast with the white snow and the passage of shiny icebergs floating in the dark waters of the sea. The fauna roams freely, and seals, penguins, and seabirds do not fear humans. According to the Antarctic Treaty, which has governed the continent since 1961, Antarctica does not belong to any country. It is a continent destined solely for scientific work.

But to get there, one must first cross the feared Drake, the stretch of sea that separates South America from the white continent, between Cape Horn (Chile) and the South Shetland Islands (Antarctica). It takes almost two days to cross it, and sailors consider its waters to be the stormiest on the planet. In ancient times, the feat was so heroic that pirates who crossed it would wear a gold ring in their ear every time they succeeded.

Antarctica, amazing experiences

About fifty orcas accompany us on the journey. The first stop is Portal Point. It is snowing heavily, but that does not prevent those present from trekking and photographing the penguins and sea lions congregating there. There was a hut of the British Antarctic Survey in 1956, and now the Falkland Island Museum in Stanley is located. The next day, we stopped at the Vermadsky Research Station belonging to Ukraine, which was sold to them by the British government for one pound. Both governments won the Ukrainian because they now had an Antarctic base, one they didn’t have before, and the English because they didn’t have to demolish the buildings and repatriate the debris. It was here that the hole in the ozone layer was discovered in 1985, which, by the way, has recovered significantly.

In the afternoon, we visit Paradise Harbour and the remains of the Argentine base of Brown Station. Numerous icebergs sail by our side, and the mountains are reflected in the water. It is a perfect area for kayaking. The sunrise in Wilhelmina

Bay is incredible, especially when the first rays of light turn the peaks of the nearby mountains yellow. The bay is surrounded on both sides by the spine of the continent, which rises to 2,000 meters and is completely covered in ice and snow, with the Nansen and Brooklyn islands forming the other boundaries. Hundreds of whales come here in search of krill. It is not difficult to interact with them; in fact, they were breaching just a few meters from the zodiac. The excitement is indescribable. Le Maire Strait is known as the Kodak Gorge because of the large number of photos taken of it. It is 11 kilometers of navigation between the mountains of Booth Island and the Antarctic Peninsula.

The experiences in this land are unique, and the ecosystem must be preserved by strictly following the established rules. The IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators) was founded in 1991 and integrates most companies and associations that visit Antarctica with tourists. The ship has established mandatory rules of conduct for the Antarctic territory: avoid approaching any animal within 4.5 meters, do not make noise, and do not scare or disturb any animals. These are the most well-known of the 170 rules, including disinfecting footwear when entering and leaving the ships and not taking anything with you except hundreds of photographs and good memories that will remain forever in our memory.

SCOTLAND

HIT THE ROAD ON THE NORTH COAST 500

From awe-inspiring coastal landscapes and remote fishing villages, to ancient castles and picture-perfect beaches - Scotland’s North Coast 500 (or NC500 for short) is one of the world’s most spectacular coastal road journeys. Dotted along the 516-mile circular touring route around the remote northern part of the Scottish mainland (traditionally starting and finishing at Inverness Castle), are a multitude of attractions, mind-blowing vistas, and plenty of opportunities for getting offthe-beaten track. Often quoted as ‘Scotland’s Route 66’ it was officially

launched in 2015 by the Tourism Project Board to attract more visitors to the region and bring extra trade to businesses along the way.

DAY 1

Inverness to Dornoch

It’s early afternoon in mid-May, and as I approach a roundabout in my Land Rover a few miles from Inverness, I spot my first NC500 road sign displaying Wick and Thurso. Momentarily, my thoughts drift back to the

dark winter months when I spent countless hours watching You Tube videos, followed by plenty of measuring, cutting and screwing pieces of plywood together to transform my vehicle into a camper to accommodate myself and my dog Sweep. I glance across at her sitting contentedly beside me and smile briefly to myself.

As I turn the Land Rover’s steering wheel onto the A9 to head up Scotland’s east coast I feel twinges of anticipation and excitement for what lay ahead - a 7-day journey along the NC500 from Inverness to Applecross on the north-west coast, including a two-day side trip to the Orkney

CASTLES, CLIFFS, AND COASTLINE

Islands along the way. Further north on the A9 we drive through Tain, a town of grand whisky colored buildings and home to Tain Golf Club, steeped in history and dating back to 1889 when legendary Old Tom Morris designed and created this classic links tucked beside the meandering River Tain with views over the Dornoch Firth. One mile north of Tain on the coast lies the Glenmorangie Distillery and Visitor Centre where you can take whiskymaking tours ending with a twodram tasting.

Situated on the north shore of the Dornoch Firth is our final destination for the day – the appealing seaside resort town of Dornoch and its attractive leafy square presided over by an impressive 13th-century cathedral. “All dogs and some wellbehaved owners are welcome,” jokes Darren Redfern, the resident warden at Dornoch Caravan & Camping Park, as Sweep and I check in for the night. After setting up the Land Rover’s sleeping platform, we walk five minutes into town where I order some food from Surf and Turf (No.8 Castle Street), a small family-run business serving delicious

seafood and game. Situated opposite the cathedral is the 15th-century Dornoch Castle Hotel, where NC500 travelers with deep pockets can book a deluxe room with handcarved four-poster beds, open log fires and spa baths hidden away in the oldest part of the castle. In addition to a restaurant and casual dining, the hotel bar is home to an extensive selection of rare and unique whiskies.

OVERNIGHT STAY: Dornoch Caravan & Camping Park

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Inverness Castle, Chanonry Point, Black Isle Brewery.

DAY 2 Dornoch to John O’Groats

My morning routine on the NC500 goes something like this: open the curtains of the Land Rover camper to a beautiful new view, let the dog out, fire up the stove to make strong coffee, eat a bowl of granola, take a shower and fill up the water containers. Then it’s time for a morning dog walk, in this case going directly from the camp site along a

sandy footpath to Dornoch’s awardwinning beach, albeit in overcast drizzly conditions. But by midmorning the sun emerges and the temperature climbs into the low 20’s, as we motor along twisting highways lined with yellow gorse contrasting against cloudless blue skies towards the town of Wick.

Ten miles north of Lybster on the A99 is our first stop - the Whaligoe Steps. Once used by herring fishermen to haul up baskets of fish in the 1800s, the 365 stone steps zig-zag steeply down from the car park to a natural harbor surrounded by epic 75-metre high cliffs. Originally a Viking settlement, Wick is next, and in its heyday during the mid-19th century, it was the busiest herring port in Europe with a fleet of over 1000 boats exporting fish to Russia and Scandinavia.

Around three miles north of town is the must-visit Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. When Sweep and I arrive at the car park, it’s almost full with motorhomes and camper vans, a regular occurrence at the NC500’s main attractions. A ten-minute cliff top walk leads to the dramatic and photogenic 15th to 17th century ruins of the twin castles situated on a narrow cliff edge promontory looking out to sea. Another classic photo moment presents itself further north at the famous signpost at John O’Groats - an iconic shot for every NC500 traveler’s photo album.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Dunrobin Castle, Big Burn Walk, Hill O’Many Stanes, Castle of Old Wick.

DAY 3: John O’Groats to Orkney

Today’s itinerary begins at Duncansby Head two miles east of John O’Groats, where a well-worn coastal path leads from the windswept lighthouse to Duncansby Stacks – a group of impressive 60-metre high angular rock formations piercing the dark blue waters of the North Sea. Sweep and I return to Duncansby Head lighthouse to enjoy the views of the Pentland Firth and the Orkney Islands, our next destination for two days before rejoining the NC500.

Especially known for its beautiful sweeping white-sand beaches, abundant wildlife and ancient Neolithic sites, the Orkney Islands have been on my bucket list since watching a compelling series on the BBC called A History of Ancient Britain. To get there, we catch a Pentland ferry from Gills Bay (four miles west of John O’Groats) for the 75-minute crossing to St Margaret’s Hope on South Ronaldsay Island, linked by a series of causeways to Orkney’s main island (known locally as Mainland) to the north.

Our main focus on Orkney is to visit some of the key sites within the ‘Heart of Neolithic Orkney’, a group of Stone Age monuments forming a UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed in 1999. Five miles north-east of the picturesque fishing village of Stromness on the road to Kirkwall (the capital of Mainland), are the imposing Standing Stones of Stenness – the four remaining stones (the largest one stands 5-metres high) from an original circle of a dozen stones dating from 3,000 BC.

About a mile north-west of Stenness is one of Britain’s most spectacular prehistoric sites rivaling Avebury and Stonehenge – the Ring of Brodgar. Originally consisting of 60 standing stones (36 of which survive today), and surrounded by a large rockcut ditch, there is nobody around when Sweep and I arrive in the early evening. Strolling around the stone circle, I ponder the scale of the effort to create it, and the strength of belief that motivated the builders of this

OVERNIGHT STAY: John O’Groats Caravan & Camping Site

ancient ceremonial site dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. The Ring of Brodgar is a photographer’s dream – and as the sun leisurely recedes, I take numerous images of the stones using different lenses, with only the melancholic bubbling calls of curlew for company.

OVERNIGHT STAY: Bay of Skaill.

Other Attractions: Maes Howe (Neolithic chambered tomb)

DAY 4: Orkney

The dazzling white sands of the Bay of Skaill is the backdrop for our day’s first stop – Skara Brae - the best-preserved Neolithic village in northern Europe. This ancient site was first discovered in 1850, when sand and earth were blown away during a violent storm revealing ten virtually intact houses huddled together and connected by narrow passageways. The stonebuilt furniture such as cupboards, hearths, box-beds and dressers have been perfectly preserved in the sands of time. Skara Brae is Orkney’s must-see attraction and provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of its inhabitants who lived here more than 5,000 years ago.

We spend the rest of the day driving around Mainland’s coastline, stopping to make a brew and some food in scenic locations (a regular and enjoyable ritual), topping up fresh supplies from rustic general stores, and exploring some of the island’s stunning RSPB nature reserves. Located in a variety of habitats from sea cliffs and farmland to wetlands and moorland, here are a few reserves to put on your list: Hobbister (a mixture of moorland, sea cliffs and salt marsh, home to short-eared owl, hen harrier, merlin and red-throated diver); Brodgar (sandwiched on a strip of narrow land between two lochs bordering the iconic Ring of Brodgar, home to curlew, snipe, redshank, golden plover and lapwing); and Marwick Head (a clifftop headland habitat, home to seabird species such as gannet, kittiwake, guillemot and great skua).

Back on South Ronaldsay Island, Sweep and I check in for the night at Wheems Organic Farm in St Margaret’s Hope, where I make a mental note to return one day to Orkney to explore more of the outlying islands offering miles of deserted beaches and coastal walks. Wheems Organic Farm is sited on a scenic hillside above sea cliffs and offers a fabulous selection of yurts, pods and shepherd huts, plus

pitches for motorhomes, camper vans and tents. The camp site is conveniently located only a few miles from the ferry terminal for our trip back to Gills Bay on the Scottish mainland the following morning.

OVERNIGHT STAY:

Wheems Organic Farm

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Tomb of the Eagles, Highland Park Distillery.

DAY 5:

Orkney to Durness

Situated less than a mile from Gills Bay Ferry Terminal is Mr Eddy’s Pit Stop. This quirky café inside a repurposed old bus (attached to Ferry View Camp Site) is a great spot for a Scottish breakfast, consisting of ‘Back bacon, lorne sausage, fresh tomato, 2 tattie scones, black pudding, baked beans and a fried egg’ all for £5.99. Back on the NC500 and fully fueled for the day, it’s time for a dog walk at Dunnet Bay, a vast golden beach backed by huge dunes (popular among surfers for its reef break ‘Thurso East’), before driving to the Victorian lighthouse at Dunnet Head (the most northerly point on the British mainland), to enjoy expansive coastal views and dramatic sea cliffs teeming with birdlife.

From Dunnet Head we drive west along Scotland’s wild, windswept and wonderful north coast, stopping off at stunning beaches such as Strathy Bay, Farr Beach and Ceannabeinne Beach. From the major crofting village of Bettyhill (the Store Café is a great spot for breakfast and lunch), via the Kyle of Tongue to Durness, the NC500 really begins to flex its muscles when it comes to spectacular vistas, and it’s also in this section where single-track roads with passing bays become more commonplace. We set up camp for the night at the Sango Sands Oasis situated on a cliff top overlooking beautiful Sango Sands Bay. From

luxury motorhomes and camper vans to vehicles with roof top tents, all manner of camping rigs are in evidence at this justifiably popular camping spot nominated in the ‘Top 10 UK Campsites by The Times ‘.

OVERNIGHT STAY: Sango Sands Oasis

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: MaryAnn’s Cottage, Castle of Mey, Puffin Cove, Smoo Cave.

DAY 6: Durness to Ullapool

Today’s section of the NC500 is one to especially savor. Sweep and

I start our day with a walk on the white sand beach on the east side of Balnakiel Bay (a mile or so northwest of Durness) watched over by the ruins of an ivy-clad 17th-century church. The beach is a stunning sight in any weather, but on this particularly sunny morning I feel like I’ve been transported to the Caribbean walking alongside the turquoise waters.

Driving down the west coast from Durness, the wow factor of the scenery increases around every bend, and I soon lose count of how many times I pull over to take photos. This north-west corner of Scotland has a tremendous variety of landscapes, including coastal and mountain habitats (the highest peak is Ben Hope at 927 meters, the most northerly Munro), hidden river valleys, boggy moorland and hundreds of lochs and lochans.

After motoring over the iconic Kylesku Bridge curving its way across the Caolas Cumhann channel, we detour off the NC500 route for a few miles, to park up and take a short hike to view the Wailing Widow Falls – one of Scotland’s most spectacular waterfalls tumbling 15-metres from huge Loch na Gainmhich into a plunge pool below. A collection of further unmissable photo stops present themselves on the Drumbeg Loop (which takes you from Kylesku,

past Drumbeg and around the coast to the fishing village of Lochinver and beyond), most notably the wonderful Drumbeg Viewpoint, the Caribbeanlike beaches of Clachtoll and Achmelvich, and the ruins of 15thcentury Ardvreck Castle standing dramatically on a rocky promontory in Loch Assynt.

A 40-minute drive south is the port town of Ullapool, the north-west’s principal center of population and a great place to top up supplies, board a ferry to the Isle of Lewis, or enjoy a pint of real ale with live Scottish folk music at the Ferry Boat Inn. Ullapool also offers a good range of eating options, a great example being the Seafood Shack on West Argyll Street where Sweep and I go for a late afternoon meal. This food trailer with outdoor seating is fast becoming a favorite among NC500 travelers for its locally-caught seafood, in particular the huge haddock wraps filled with a crispy piece of haddock, basil pesto mayo and salad.

OVERNIGHT STAY:

Broomfield Holiday Park

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Handa Island Reserve, Lochinver Larder (famous for its pies), Knockan Crag Nature Reserve.

DAY 7: Ullapool to Applecross

After a mug of strong filter coffee, Sweep and hit the NC500 early towards Corrieshalloch Gorge situated 12 miles east of Ullapool on the A835 road. A woodland trail leads from the visitor center to a wobbly 1874 suspension bridge spanning the mile-long / 60 meter-deep box canyon formed some 2.6 million years ago by glacial melt-waters. The bridge (and nearby observation platform) provide spectacular views upstream of the thunderous 50-metre high Falls of Measach plunging into the River Droma below.

The next stop on our final leg is Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve set up in 1951 to protect the ancient Caledonian pine forest west of Kinlochewe. From easy woodland trails to more challenging hikes on the slopes of Beinn Eighe (1,010 meters), the reserve is a dream for outdoors enthusiasts. For nature lovers, this is home to a variety of rarer Highland wildlife, including pine martens, wildcats, crossbills and black-throated divers. Or you can simply pull off the NC500 for a pit stop at one of the picnic tables alongside beautiful Loch Maree.

After heading around the Applecross peninsula coastal road from Torridon, our epic NC500 road trip finishes in the remote outpost of Applecross with a celebratory meal and drink at the Applecross Inn with lovely views across the Inner Sound of Raasay to the isles of Raasay and Skye. Tucking into a hearty plate of

fish and chips while Sweep enjoys a pork sausage, I reflect on one of the very best trips I’ve experienced in more than thirty years as a travel photojournalist.

OVERNIGHT STAY: Applecross Campsite

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Rhue Lighthouse, Inverewe Gardens, Gairloch Beach, Bealach na Bà (a twisting mountain pass from Applecross with hairpin bends)

PLANNING YOUR TRIP

WHICH DIRECTION?

The NC500 officially begins in Inverness (at the Castle) where you can either head west (clockwise) or north-east (anti-clockwise). My recommendation is to travel the route anti-clockwise for two reasons. Firstly, the driving is much easier with

wider two-lane roads, with the roads getting progressively narrower and steeper in sections (one-lane roads with passing bays), which allows you to gradually adjust to the NC500 driving conditions. Secondly, the scenery encountered when driving anti-clockwise gradually gets more and more spectacular, and although the section up the north-east coast to John O’Groats is lovely, its nothing in comparison to the stunning coastal vistas, mountain ranges and beaches encountered along the epic northern and western coast sections of the route.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE?

I would recommend a minimum of at least 5 days to experience the NC500 highlights, with a full week being an ideal amount of time. In

8-10 days you could visit all the main attractions along the route while driving at a more leisurely pace, plus allowing more time for off-the-beaten track exploration and unexpected discoveries.

WHEN TO GO

Although you can do the NC500 at any time of the year, the main season is mid-May to mid-September when the weather is generally better with milder temperatures. However, this is the most popular time and its worth being aware that all the hotspots along the route will be busier, plus many campsites and other accommodation will be booked up well in advance often with higher prices. In the winter season (November to March), the weather is much colder, roads will be much quieter, and many hotels and campsites may close for the winter months. The shoulder season (April to early May and mid-September to

October) is an option that could give you the best of all worlds.

HOW TO GET AROUND

There are a number of ways to travel the NC500 each with their own pros and cons. You could take or hire a car, motorbike or electric bike and stay at a variety of accommodation or take a tent to save money. Fans of the outdoor camping lifestyle may prefer a more self-contained method by taking their own (or hiring) a caravan, camper van or motorhomes. Another option worth considering is a rooftop tent (for cars, vans or SUVs) that pops up in seconds and turns any vehicle into a camper leaving storage space inside the vehicle.

WHERE TO STAY

The NC500 is well catered for in regards to hotels, pubs, traditional

B&B’s, Airbnb’s, glamping pods, shepherd’s huts etc dotted along the route. Additionally, there are many excellent campsites in scenic locations most of which have excellent facilities and electric hook ups. It’s a good idea to book ahead to avoid disappointment, but that isn’t to say that you can’t do it more spontaneously on the day depending on the time of year and the type of setup you are traveling in. Prices will depend on the type and size of the setup and if power is required.

Typical prices: Car & Tent: $20-30, Campervans $25-35, Motorhomes $30-40.

FURTHER INFORMATION. northcoast500.com

A powerful haka performed at Matavaa, embodying the spirit and tradition of the Marquesas.

HADRIEL TORRES

Hadriel Torres is an award - winning travel photographer and freelance photojournalist based in Australia. His work has garnered accolades including the National Geographic Traveller UK Grand Prize (2020).

Website: hadrieltorresphoto.com

Instagram: @hadriel_torres_photography

Portrait of a Marquesan warrior adorned with traditional tattoos and attire.
A Marquesan elder stands by the ocean, reflecting maritime wisdom and cultural depth.
A young dancer captured mid-performance, showcasing Marquesan cultural grace.
Close-up of Henry, a Marquesan warrior, showcasing half-body tattoos.

A traditional pirogue approaches Ua Pou’s shore, locals in vibrant attire celebrating heritage.

A nurse shark glides through Fakarava’s shallow, baby-blue waters.

I stood gazing over Moorea’s crystal-clear lagoon and lush green peaks.

Golden hour illuminates Nuku Hiva’s rugged peaks, casting long island shadows.

On Tahiti’s shore, watching the sun set behind Moorea’s peaks. The sky turned orange and pink, and the calm sea mirrored the colors.

FRANCE

JOIE DE VIVRE: A MOTHER-DAUGHTER

ADVENTURE EXPLORING PARIS AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR

On our very first mother/daughter trip abroad we set our sights on Paris and the South of France as a way to soak up some culture and beach time together. With my daughter turning three this month, I felt it was a great time to open her mind to the world around her, to encourage her to taste new foods, hear new languages and see places she’s only learned about in movies like Anastasia, Ratatouille, or the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

The 5th Arrondissement in Paris offers a blend of history, luxury shopping and family friendly activities. Sitting on the edge of the Luxembourg Gardens and the Pantheon, the Hotel Grand Coeur Latin was the perfect base for our Parisian adventure. With its 82 rooms in the heart of Paris’s Latin Quarter, this four-star hotel is both historical and modern. Designed by Architect Vincent Bastie and

decorated by interior designer Marie-Paule Clout, Noir Nuance Agency, they have created a timeless and relaxing environment. The mix of raw materials, genuine oak, metal, rugs and marble is warm and welcoming. The Grand Cœur Latin Hotel is a voyage through time: from the Roman remains known as the Arènes de Lutèce, via the Middle Ages to the philosophical debates of the 19th century, the

past comes to life within these walls. Time travel is the key to the story of the Grand Cœur Latin Hotel. In 2022, the establishment closed for an upgrade. The major renovations have carefully preserved the prestige of this 19th century building, while emphasizing its grandeur and elegance. There was no expectation that these works would reveal anything unusual but there have been all sorts of surprises: those working on the site found themselves in an epic story with Ancient Rome at its heart. When the works reached the basement, they really did become an archaeological dig! For six months, along with his team, David Couturier, an antiquity specialist in the City of Paris’s archaeology

LUXURY, LAUGHTER, & LAVENDER

SKIES IN FRANCE

department, traveled back through time, reconnecting with the ancient history of the capital. Columns, animal remains, shards of pottery, there were so many discoveries, all bearing witness to the place’s lively former existence, so far away and yet right there.

Upon arrival, the hotels’ heated indoor pool, relaxation area and Hammam were a treat to unwind in after a long trip. We enjoyed them every night before changing for dinner and it was such a nice amenity to offer a bubble of serenity and comfort after long walks through the City of Light. Each morning we fueled up at the hotel cafe with a delicious breakfast of croissants, crepes, fresh local cheeses, meats, eggs and more before starting our day. Crossing from the Eiffel Tower to Sacre Coeur, Notre-Dame to the Centre Pompidou and with a boat ride along the Seine, each day included playground stops and children’s activities combined with history lessons and coffee breaks at French brasseries. The Parisian cafe culture is amazing and the many pedestrian-only streets

make them a pleasure to relax and dine in. My favorite one next to the Palais Royal is Le Nemours where you are sure to run into a celebrity coming from a hotel along the Rue de Rivoli. Also highly recommended is the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Carlton. Pro tip: Arrive before four as a line forms as soon as it opens and it’s a small venue. With children in tow, the Tuileries Garden has a great playground and carousel and the Luxembourg Gardens has a famous marionette puppet theatre, an excellent play area called Ludo Jardin and a pond to sail boats on. Climbing on the Palais Royal columns, traversing the Marais with its beautiful Place des Vosges and Square du Temple Park and enjoying the market street of the Rue Montmartre all showed the beauty of the city while making it fun for a toddler to explore somewhere new. When she gets a bit older I’ll be taking her on one of Kasia Dietz’s fashion tours where she showcases Parisian designers, the local styles and the best places to shop, in both the right and left banks.

After a few beautiful and memorable days in the city we traveled by train south to Antibes. Located in the heart of the Côte d’Azur, Antibes Juan-Les- Pins is at the foot of the Alps with 15 miles of Mediterranean coastline. It’s an absolutely beautiful seaside city that I can’t wait to return to. Looking out on the Bay of Angels and Nice, the Port of Antibes is now one of Europe’s largest marinas. Thanks to its actions as part of a sustainable-development approach the town has been awarded the “Ville Eco-Propres” 4-Star label for its efforts to combine economic development with the preservation of its architectural, historic and environmental heritage. Our home for the trip was the stunning new Villa Mirae, a five star gem by Inwood Hotels and a member of Relais & Chateaux, which is one of the nicest hotels I have ever been to. Designed by architect Oscar Lucien Ono from Maison Numéro 20, Villa Miraé encapsulates Cap d’Antibes’ serenity and discreet elegance. Every area, from the entrance gallery to the gastronomic

restaurant and the rooms, reflects a subtle balance of the sun’s golden hues, the deep blues of the sea and the floral essence of the Mediterranean gardens. Everything has been designed to offer peacefulness and simplicity. Noble materials such as Burgundy stone, sculpted wood, natural linen and Murano glass are cornerstones of this concept, enhanced by frescos and mosaics, crafted by gifted artisans. Villa Mirae has 35 rooms, including eight exceptional suites with a private terrace. The beautiful Mediterranean gardens unfold in a lush setting, and an outdoor bar and pool complement the experience. Their swimming pool is surrounded by flowers and a garden path walks out to the beach deck overlooking the sea.

The two restaurants Amarines and Miraé by Mauro Colagreco had exquisite service, a phenomenal champagne and wine selection and wonderful choices such as lobster bolognese, Mediterranean

wild fish, and Miraé even has a nice kids selection including chicken nuggets and spaghetti. Here, Mauro Colagreco and his team invite guests to take a journey along the Riviera, from Genoa to Saint-Tropez - to explore its land and sea, and to rediscover, with a contemporary touch, the iconic recipes and flavors that have shaped the culinary heritage of the coast. In constant evolution, the dishes on the menu are crafted in harmony with the seasons, the catch of the day, and the harvests from many local producers.

The suite we stayed in was perfect with two balconies on which we enjoyed breakfast daily, lovely amenities including a separate living area, oversized soaking tub, Sothys cosmetic treats or candies on the bed each night with a letter on suggested activities in the area and a mini bar. Some tips they had were visiting Saint Paul de Vence, a small authentic village where pétanque and seaside drinks are enjoyed by the locals and its narrow streets and ramparts are wonderful to wander

and the Provençal market with its many food stalls in town.

Antibes old town boasts a beautiful Picasso Museum, a flowery, residential neighborhood, Commune libre du Safranier, delightful shopping, all types of great restaurants, a Ferris Wheel and Carousel. The city walls are filled with art galleries where local artists work and sell their goods. There are beaches all over and my favorite one, La Gravette Beach, was hidden in the arches of the old city in the shade of the ramparts, which was perfect with a toddler as the water is shallow and calm. We stopped at a wonderful tea room and pastry shop Lilian Bonnefoi. The former head pastry chef at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc who after having opened a first shop in Antibes at 7 avenue Robert Soleau, launched a tea room and pastry production facility in 2019 in the charming setting of the Safranier square, offering pastry lessons and a sit-down area for sweet treats and coffee and very recently another shop, at 50 rue de la République. He was awarded the title ‘Passion

Dessert 2022’ by the Michelin Guide. The restaurant just next door also on the square place du Safranier is

Le Safranier and its chef Olivier Gaïatto, the former chef de cuisine of the Eden-Roc restaurant took over and transformed this establishment in March 2020. It offers a new take on traditional regional cuisine. Another gem in the city is the Fonton Shop, an independent specialist of craft Champagne. Run by American manager Lauren de Fonton, the establishment stands out for its serious selection of artisanal producers who master the entire production process, from vine to bottle. Lauren is there to share her expertise on the discovery of authentic champagnes created with the greatest of care.

The Picasso museum was extremely impressive with a collection that encompasses over 2,000 works of modern art, including around 275 by Picasso. Picasso often spent entire summers on holiday in Antibes Juan-

les-Pins, from 1920 onwards. Many of the works in the museum were done on site - in what was then the Chateau Grimaldi - in autumn 1946. It was a happy time for him: the war had ended, he was back visiting his beloved Mediterranean coastline and was expecting a child (with partner Françoise Gilot often depicted as a nymph in the paintings). In Antibes, he always felt particularly inspired by the Greek and Roman history of the city (originally a trading outpost “Antipolis” founded by the Phoceans). Hence the many centaurs, fauns and satyrs prancing to the sounds of a diaulos.

Then of course is the Port Vauban with yachts so stunning that you won’t know where to look first. With its 1500 berths, and almost 20 specifically for superyachts, it’s a Mecca for yachting in the Mediterranean. The best view of them, unless on board of course, is the top of the Ferris Wheel which gives you a bird eye view of the marina and old city. Another great

spot is to climb up the terrace of Bastion St Jaume to admire the yachts and the poetic Nomade, an impressive sculpture by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa that was placed there in 2010. Other highlights include the Hotel Belle Rives which pays tribute to the writer F. Scott Fitzgerald and is a must for a sunset cocktail overlooking the sea and its sister property, Hotel Juana, with its lovely, colorful restaurant Paseo where you can swing on their chairs, drink rose and eat paella and tapas. If you can get a table at the Eden Roc Grill it’s a treat as the Cap-Eden-Roc hotel is the most famous in town but for a more casual option try the snack bar at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel where you can listen to music, enjoy the beachfront views and shop for cute straw hats.

Hôtel Villa Mirae’s concierge team was extremely resourceful helping to plan all of our guided tours, suggesting local activities like Antibes Land Amusement park for kids and offering a hand with the stroller when needed. They also gave us a great tour of the property upon

arrival as we enjoyed welcome drinks and cappuccino’s after a long train ride into town. Every day on the Côte d’Azur was nicer than the next. One day was spent with a driver arranged by the hotel exploring towns like Eze, Monaco, Monte Carlo and as far as San Remo, Italy. In June, the streets are lined with Bouganvelia flowers making the views both along the road and sea just stunning. Highlights included driving on the Formula One racetrack, exploring the winding streets of Eze and eating pizza and gelato in Italy, just a stones throw past the beautiful, colorful town of Menton. Another day we traveled on the Riviera Line to Saint Tropez and visited the gorgeous boutique shops and winding streets of the old town before heading to the beach. With a bit more time there I would have liked to go wine tasting at some of their local vineyards which dot the road between town and the famous beach clubs. We relaxed on the sunbeds at Byblos Beach drinking rose and enjoying crystal clear waters, sandy beaches and good vibes. My daughter built sand castles with children from

other countries and while they spoke different languages they played nicely and neither of us wanted the day to come to an end. Our two weeks in Europe flew by in a flash with great memories made and some amazing mother-daughter bonding time. With less than a week each in both the South of France and Paris we have only scratched the surface of these beautiful places. I hope I’ve opened her eyes, expanded her palette and created a zest for travel that will live on with her as she grows up. Ideally it will not be too long before we return. Until then the joie de vivre of the destination will live on in our hearts. Au Revoir.

/54 STOCKHOLM

SWEDEN

There’s something strikingly serene about Sweden. A kind of quiet confidence. A balance between nature and design, history and innovation, minimalism and warmth. It’s not a destination that screams luxury—but one that whispers it in the most refined way. For me, Sweden is where I recharge and reconnect. From world-class golf to lakeside dinners under the midnight sun, the city and country will take you on a journey of world-class golf to lakeside dinners under the midnight sun.

Bro Hof Slott Golf Club

Just outside Stockholm, Bro Hof Slott is a jewel of Swedish golf. The drive out there alone is a dream— open countryside, glistening lakes, and then suddenly, the majestic white castle of Bro Hof rising up on the edge of Lake Mälaren. The Stadium Course here is the special one. It’s bold, vast, and designed to challenge every level of golfer. Every tee box offers a view, and every fairway rolls like a design sketch brought to life. What makes Bro Hof special isn’t just the layout, but how nature and architecture blend so seamlessly. Think Augusta meets Scandinavian restraint.

SCANDINAVIAN CHARM MEETS WORLD-CLASS GOLF ESCAPES

Ullna Golf Club

Closer to the city, Ullna Golf Club stretches along the shoreline, with water coming into play on nearly every hole. Redesigned by Jack Nicklaus, it combines strategy with serenity. If you can play Ullna on a crystal-clear June evening, the lake glassy, the skies soft and endless, you are in for a true treat. The light never really leaves this time of year, and there’s something magical about finishing your round at almost midnight, the sky still glowing. It’s hard to explain how surreal that light is unless you’ve stood in it yourself.

Enjoying Stockholm: The City of Water and Light

Stockholm is often described as the Venice of the North—but it’s much more than that. Built across 14 islands, water surrounds you wherever you go. We locals embrace it. We swim in it, we commute on it, we fika by it. Kayaking through the city or hopping on a ferry to cross town is just part of everyday life here.

A good day starts with a stroll through Djurgården, our city’s green lung and central park. I grabbed a cardamom bun and coffee at Skeppsbro Bageri, then headed to Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval quarters. But unlike other cities, Stockholm never feels stuck in time. We embrace design and innovation—from cutting-edge fashion labels to the global force that is Spotify. You can spend one afternoon wandering between contemporary art galleries and boutiques in the up-and-coming SoFo district and end the evening at one of the city’s new rooftop bars, drinking wine from any wine country in the world as the sun sets below the skyline. The view? Islands, rooftops, and endless golden light.

If you need a true escape, slip away to Yasuragi, a Japanese-inspired spa retreat just outside the city. The moment you step through its doors, the world slows down. You exchange your clothes for a yukata robe, soak in steaming hot springs, and let the silence do its magic. Surrounded by pine trees and overlooking the Baltic Sea, Yasuragi offers a completely different kind of luxury: one rooted in stillness, simplicity, and profound relaxation.

A Taste of Sweden

Food is woven into Swedish life; it’s not flashy—it’s fresh, seasonal, and thoughtful. You’ll find cuisine from every corner of the world, and the quality speaks for itself.

Explore Östermalmshallen, an upscale food hall featuring stalls that offer a diverse range of options, from smoked shrimp to gravlax and reindeer sausage. Even if you’re not a fan of food halls, go. It’s elegant, historic, and full of flavor. On weekends, I love visiting local markets for fresh cheeses, baked rye bread, and Swedish delicacies like cloudberry jam or smoked vendace.

Dinner in Stockholm is anything but predictable. One night, you can dine at the Asian Post Office, where the atmosphere is electric, and the menu fuses Asian flavors with Scandinavian ingredients. Another night was spent at Tradition, a restaurant that celebrates classic Swedish fare. There’s a richness to the food scene here that surprised me. I also loved Agrikultur, a Michelin-starred spot that makes New Nordic cuisine approachable and personal.

And always, there is fika. More than coffee and cake, fika is a state of mind—a pause, a reset, a moment to be present. One of the best fika places in town is Rosendals Trädgård, a local-loved garden café tucked among greenhouses and flower beds. It’s a perfect place to pause just outside the city center. Sit under a blooming apple tree with a fresh salad, watch families picnic, and just enjoy.

A Quick Detour: Gotland

Just a short flight or ferry ride from Stockholm lies Gotland, Sweden’s most enchanting island. With its medieval town of Visby, rugged coastlines, and relaxed pace, it feels like stepping into another era. And for golfers, Visby Golfklubb is a true gem. Some say it’s the best course in Sweden, and I wouldn’t argue. Wind, waves, and wildflowers frame every hole, creating an impossibly scenic landscape.

Hej Då, Stockholm

What makes Sweden so unforgettable is how effortlessly it combines contrasts: modern and ancient, raw nature and elegant design, peaceful forests, and vibrant city life. And for golfers? Playing under the midnight sun, walking fairways once touched by royalty, and ending the day with a rooftop glass of wine—that’s hard to beat. The best times to visit? Late May through September. Give yourself at least 4–5 days, play golf, explore the archipelago, and enjoy a fika or five. This is Sweden. Understated, unforgettable, and always worth revisiting.

BRANSON MISSOURI

There are basically two kinds of golfers - those who want to play one round a day on vacation and then take it easy. The other sort needs to cram in as many holes as possible before the sun sets to feel sated. So for anyone trying to organize a golf trip with friends, coming up with an itinerary that pleases both camps can feel a bit like a tightrope act.

Enter Branson, Missouri. Nestled in the heart of the Ozark Mountains, the resort town is home to 11 golf courses, some lengthy championship tests and others shorter, less daunting challenges - including a trio of world class par-3 courses. Thanks to that diversity, Branson is the perfect buddies trip spot for both players who demand two rounds a day and can still leave some space in the schedule for those who crave a bit of down time… and maybe a spa appointment.

WHY BRANSON IS AN ULTIMATE BUDDIES GOLF DESTINATION

So if your crew is ready for a golf adventure and some Ozark charm, here is a four-day itinerary that will leave every player in your crew with a smile on their face.

Day 1 - Buffalo Ridge & Top of the Rock

Buffalo Ridge was the first course at the Big Cedar resort, so it’s rather fitting to begin any golf trip from its first tee. The 7,000 yard, par 71 track was designed by Tom Fazio and still

figures in Golf Digest’s best courses in the state of Missouri rankings. The routing climbs up and down bluffs, through exposed rock formations. With waterfalls and gurgling streams in play on many holes, golfers need to keep their ball in play to score well. Tricky-to-read greens add to the challenge, but as you play, don’t forget to soak in the natural beauty of the Ozarks and try to catch a glimpse of the Buffalo herd that lives on the aptly named course.

For the second round of the day, embrace Top of the Rock’s short but stern test. The longest of the course’s nine holes is only 202 yards from the back tees. But when the wind picks up—as it often does atop the bluff— many holes play significantly longer. With Table Rock Lake as a stunning backdrop, Jack Nicklaus designed this loop as an ode to Augusta National’s par-3 course. Four tee shots require forced carries over water and the

sixth green is an island onto itself. But even on the landlocked holes, there aren’t many “good misses,” so crisp contact and exacting distance control are imperative for any shot at a birdie.

Day 2 - Payne’s Valley & Thousand Hills

Big and bold as you might expect from Tiger Woods, Payne’s Valley offers an epic golf experience with views to match. Named for the late golfing great Payne Stewart, who was born in Springfield, Missouri, the course represents Woods’ TGR Design firm’s first fully public-access course in the world. Fairways are mostly massive enough to bomb it off the tee without fear. Similarly the greens are typically large and framed by deep bunkers golfers should avoid, unless their sand play is elite. Another recurring theme,

a majority of the course’s putting surfaces feature soft edges that drip off to tightly mowed collection areas, yielding a multitude of recovery options. Like all great resort courses, there is a good mix of holes and ample opportunity for scoring with reachable par-fives and a pair of drivable par-fours at the third and 12th. The course culminates with a reachable par-five that plays directly into the “The Big Rock,” a 200+ foot tall limestone wall, giving players the possibility of making a birdie or better surrounded by a natural amphitheater. The round may be over when the last putt drops at 18, but there’s one last swing at the 19th hole - a hundred yard shot to an island of grass, perfect for settling bets or just a laugh.

From the back tees Thousand Hills plays a modest 5,111 yards and to a par 66, giving golfers their best chance on the trip of breaking 80 over 18 holes. But the engaging and quirky Bob Cupp and Michael Riley design is no pushover. The course is chalked full of memorable holes, like the par-five ninth that plays a scant 460 yards downhill off the tee then back up over a penalty area to a slender green nestled on a plateau buttressed by a craggy wall. There’s trouble everywhere creating a serious risk reward par-five. The par-four 14th offers dual fairways - players can choose the direct route with a creek on the left or aim right to safety but a more awkward approach. The course has nine… count ‘em… nine par-threes, ranging from 124 yards to 205. So if your group enjoys gambling, expect some wild swings in the match.

Day 3 - Ozarks National & Cliffhangers

Back in 2019 Ozarks National nabbed Golf Digest’s Best New Public Course award and today it still ranks number one in the state for anyone with a credit card. The Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw design keeps golfers on their toes. Every shot needs serious strategic consideration. Off the tee, fairways are wide, but players need to mind the angles of approach shots - end up in the wrong spot and you’re staring double bogey directly in the face. The greens are the fastest in the area. So while you can make aggressive putts when

you’ve found the right spot, you’ll want to practice defensive, die-itin-the-cup speed on the practice green beforehand.

Have you ever teed off between two waterfalls? Well, Cliffhangers is your chance and the name is no lie. The newest par-3 course at Big Cedar is set along the cliffs directly above Payne’s Valley! With 18 holes ranging from 60 to 165 yards, the short track is fully capable of testing any player’s mettle thanks to wild elevation changes and severe sloping greens. Preview play of 11 holes is now available for resort guests through July 3 and will open fully later this summer.

Day 4 - Branson Hills Golf Club & Mountain Top

Designed by Chuck Smith and Bobby Clampett, the Course at Branson Hills Golf Club begins with a dramatic 130 foot-drop from the first tee to the green and Ozark vistas don’t let up until you’re back in the parking lot. Natural rock faces, waterfalls, and creeks dot the course. While the fairways are large, keeping your ball out of the rough requires an appreciation of which way the ball is going to roll once it hits the ground and plan accordingly. The greens are generally large, pure and fast.

So, good lag putting is clutch and if you’re not driving the ball well, consider loading up on a fresh dozen (or two) as the back nine features numerous water hazards.

Back at the Big Cedar resort, World Golf Hall of Famer Gary Player and Johnny Morris’s Mountain Top takes players for another wild ride. The 13-hole, par-3 course offers both sweeping views of the Ozark landscape and an approachable experience, not just for seasoned

players but meant to bring families, juniors and newbies into the game.

Getting There

One of Branson’s biggest attractions is its accessibility. For around 30% of the US population, Branson is less than a day’s drive away. For those farther afield, all three major airlines service Springfield-Branson National Airport and flights are plentiful.

Where to Stay

More than half of the courses center around the famed Big Cedar resort. Billionaire Bass Pro Shops founder Johnny Morris has been shaping his luxury, full-service retreat as an opulent monument to the Ozarks for decades. So staying on property could make the most sense. But Branson is chock full of accommodations to fit any group size or budget. Larger crews might want to consider booking a Reunion Lodge at the Thousand Hills resort. The homes sleep up to 10 with comfortable, well-appointed shared spaces and many bedrooms feature on-suite bathrooms. For players keen on having private hotel rooms or banking points rewards, Bonovoy, IHG and Wyndham all have properties in the area.

Where to Eat

When it’s time to replenish some calories the world is your oyster in terms of dining. Osage offers a fine dining, steakhouse experience with the views to match. Anyone in need of some carbs should head to Florentina’s for a bowl of carbonara or a plate of parmigiana. In the mood for some literal firewater? Whet your whistle at Flaming Margaritas Mexican Kitchen with one of their adult beverages lit ablaze before noshing on some shrimp tacos.

Off the Course

Beyond golf, Branson offers abundant entertainment, outdoor activities and relaxation. Sporting enthusiasts can fish on iconic Table Rock Lake or enjoy a sunset cruise. Those in search of a spot of entertainment can hit up Dolly Parton’s Stampede for dinner and a show or marvel at Dean Z’s Elvis impersonation. Thrill seekers can tackle the rides at award-winning Silver Dollar City theme park while anyone who needs a little R+R should book a massage appointment at the Cedar Creek Spa.

DALLAS

If someone had told me I’d spend a weekend in Dallas doing squats to DJ sets, tracking down fried cottoncandy-wrapped bacon at a state fair, and walking away with a newfound respect for cowboy boots, I would’ve politely asked if they were okay. But here we are. Dallas, you chaotic, glittering, culinary fever dream, you were a pleasant surprise.

In late September, I landed in Dallas with low expectations and high humidity. Within minutes of stepping into the HALL Arts Hotel, I knew I had grossly underestimated the city. The lobby was part gallery, part sanctuary, and part Apple store aesthetic. Every hallway was framed with bold, curated artwork. My room overlooked the Dallas Arts District and came with a tub deep enough for me to sink into and

forget the rest. But my favorite part? The design of Ellie’s Restaurant just above the lobby. Naturally lit, the restaurant was bustling. There was live music and craft cocktails, just the kind of environment that made me want to linger a little longer.

After a quick outfit change and a few dramatic selfies, I met our crew for dinner at Jalisco Norte. The interior decor was flattering, but the margaritas were lethal. Chef José Meza’s menu is a love letter to Mexico–it’s elevated, yes, but not pretentious. I had a mole that nearly made me cry. But really, the guacamole was the star of the show. I’ve had my fair share of Mexican dishes around the US, but it’s true; nothing compares to the Mexican cuisine you can find in Texas.

The next morning, I found myself getting up early to attend a fitness class at John Reed Fitness. This was my first time ever at a gym like

DALLAS, YOU CHAOTIC, GLITTERING, CULINARY DREAM WHAT A SURPRISE

this. John Reed Fitness is part gym and part nightclub, which, frankly, both tend to stress me out. But where there’s stress, there’s an elevated heart rate, and where there’s an elevated heart rate, there’s a workout! Upon entering the impressive space, I found myself immediately accomplishing my workout goals. There were neon lights, mirrored walls, and a HIIT instructor who smiled while encouraging burpees. I got through it by pretending I was in a music video. Spoiler: I was not.

Post-workout, I decided to take a serene stroll through the Dallas Arboretum. I heard a lot about the Dallas Arboretum, how it’s absolutely huge, beautiful, and a must on any visit to the city. In late September, the Arboretum

was like a festive fall pinterest board. Think pumpkins, gourds, and enough fall-themed photo ops to last you until next year’s Instagram reset. Alongside a few friends, I was amazed to find there were actual houses, massive displays, and statues constructed from pumpkins and gourds. It was like Halloween Town, but in real life.

For lunch, I had a religious experience at Terry Black’s BBQ. The brisket was incredibly tender. With huge portions and choice from many side dishes, this is Texas BBQ at its best. I tried to play it cool as I devoured everything from jalapeño sausage, mac and cheese, coleslaw, potato salad, and well…  enough food to typically satisfy me for a week. But I had to try everything. I will definitely be going back.

After returning to the hotel and taking a solid post-lunch nap, it was time for my husband and I to get ready for, yes, another meal. Walking distance from our hotel, we made a dinner reservation at Tei-An, a contemporary Japanese restaurant with some of the most inventive and exquisite dishes in the greater Dallas area. Soba noodles, only the best cuts of sashimi, perfectly paired with carefully selected sake. We opted for a light dinner, but it was perfect.

Just across the plaza, the Turtle Creek Chorale brought the house down with a ‘90s-themed performance at the Moody Performance Hall. Picture dozens of gay men singing “Torn” by Natalie Imbruglia in harmony while wearing sequins. However, the true highlight of the evening was their performance of Vogue by Madonna. Complete with full

Victorian costume, the sights and sounds were equal parts hilarious and euphoric. Afterward, a group of us went to Lower Greenville for drinks. Truck Yard was the highlight, a beer garden-meets-junkyard vibe with food trucks, fairy lights, and a treehouse bar. Dallas really said, “Let’s be weird,” but make it chic.

Saturday was opening day at the State Fair of Texas, which I can only describe as an overstimulated carnival from a Southern fever dream. The fairgrounds were just starting to get packed as the vendors opened their stalls for the first day’s festivities. I tried more fried foods than I’ve had in my life, a Dominican fritura dog and something called cotton-candy-wrapped bacon that should be illegal but isn’t. The flavors were surprising. One of my favorite things I tried throughout the day was

deep-fried pho, bursting with umami flavor and a juicy dipping sauce. My theme and mantra for the weekend, “Calories don’t count in Texas.”

Hot, sticky, and deliriously full, we wandered through the Midway, passed Big Tex (the famous 55-foot cowboy statue), and realized I had never been to a state fair this large, or festive before. Dallas goes all out for the state fair and truly makes any trip to Texas an experience to never forget.

Dinner was at Brass Ram, a retro-inspired steakhouse where everything felt like a scene from Mad Men. We sat on leather-plush chairs and ordered OId Fashioneds that really meant business. The steaks? Perfectly medium-rare. The

asparagus and potatoes we ordered as sides were crisped to perfection. For nightcaps, we made our way to Babou’s, a speakeasy tucked inside Hotel Swexan. The bar layout was extremely vibey with velvet walls, moody lighting, and drinks so pretty you almost hesitate before sipping.

Making the most of our last evening in Dallas, we couldn’t resist making a stop at the Round-Up Saloon, Dallas’ iconic gay country bar. Watching men in cowboy hats and leather boots in the center of the dance floor gave me an entirely new respect for square-dancing in general. The crowd moved from side to side, step by step, in perfect unison. It was memorizing. In the adjacent room, karaoke was well underway, and I

had the treat of watching a couple of my friends steal the show up on stage. The Round-Up Saloon is such a welcoming and hospitable place. It’s friendly, lively, full of good Texas spirit, and is always up for a great time.

Sunday morning, we capped our long-weekend trip in Dallas with brunch at Crown Block, perched atop Reunion Tower. The views? Unmatched. The buffet? Also unmatched. Never in my life had I seen such an extravagant spread of brunch options, from prime-rib, to sushi, to souffle, omelet, crab fritters, overnight oats… enough options to have something different daily for breakfast for months. The atmosphere was elevated without

being annoying. Prim, proper, and welcoming. I filled my plate and went back for desserts two or three times.

Dallas surprised me. It’s a city that strikes a balance between Southern charm and unapologetic ambition. It’s art galleries and queso, luxury hotels and murals under overpasses. It’s rodeo, BBQ, gay chorales, square dancing, and sushi. The point is that it’s a lot more than what comes to the imagination at first glance.

Sardinia

From ancient Nuragic ruins and bread-making traditions to sound sculptures and longevity secrets, Sardinia offers a rich mosaic of culture, history, and natural beauty— inviting travelers to explore its timeless spirit and deeply rooted island life.

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DRIFT Travel Magazine 04-2025 by DRIFT Travel Magazine - Issuu