Embark on the journey of a lifetime as you delve into Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, along the Mekong River and explore Japan by land in handcrafted luxury.
Be immersed in exclusive Scenic Enrich events that provide deep insights into rich cultural traditions, local cuisine and stunning scenery.
Create stories for life in 2025 or 2026 and embark on an enriching journey, knowing you will experience the very best of this region, in 5-star, truly all-inclusive ultra-luxury.
World-class custom-designed ship
With only up to 68 guests on board, the Scenic Spirit experience is more than just a 5-star river cruise. With separate living and bedroom areas, a walk-in wardrobe, and ergonomic Scenic Slumber Beds, your suite is one of the largest sailing the Mekong. It’s your sanctuary on the river, allowing you to explore, relax, and indulge as the exotic landscapes float by.
A Journey of Epicurean Delights
VIMS
Treasures of the Mekong
13 or 15 Day River Cruise & Land Journey
Siem Reap > Ho Chi Minh City (or reverse)
Select Departures: Apr 2025 to May 2026
Your Scenic journey is more than an exploration of South East Asia’s historic sites and Japan’s exotic locations. It’s a deep dive into the regional culinary flavours. Our executive chefs create an irresistible blend of local and international cuisine with menus that are reinvented daily. To complement, enjoy the largest selection of premium beverages, at no extra cost.
Immersive, handpicked excursions
Go behind the scenes to enjoy extraordinary encounters inaccessible to the ordinary traveller. Our exclusive Scenic Enrich events will elevate your cultural discoveries to the realms of ancient kingdoms, sacred practices, fables and folklore. Personalise your journey with Scenic Freechoice included excursions, exploring iconic sights, hidden gems, and local culture with expert guides.
Suites from $9,795* pp
NAMIBIA
Allison Foat
A three-camp desert safari across Namibia’s wildest corners. From star-lit sleep-outs and rhino tracking to Himba encounters and desert fine dining— Namibia redefines the safari experience
EUROPE
Sergi Reboredo
Relive the golden age of travel aboard the world’s most storied train, from romantic Venice to bustling London. All-aboard the Venice SimplonOrient-Express
PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY
Dunn
Discover the wild beauty of southern France from the water on a self-drive boating adventure through the Camargue—flamingos, seafood, and medieval towns await.
Journey through sunlit Spain in this vibrant photo essay capturing coastal charm, everyday beauty, and the soulful rhythm of Mediterranean life through Jessica Carlsén’s lens. Jessica Carlsén
Lara
PORTUGAL 4 6
Andrew Marshall
From rugged coastal links to sunsoaked inland gems, explore Portugal’s top 10 golf courses and discover why this country is a golfer’s dream destination.
ITALY 52
Matthew Schueller
Lose yourself in Cinque Terre’s coastal magic—hidden trails, cliffside swims, and quiet village charm captured in this heartfelt love letter to Italy’s dreamiest coastline.
TRAVEL TIPS 66
Steve Drake
Streamline your summer vacation prep with these 10 smart packing tips—less stress, lighter bags, and more time to enjoy the moments that really matter.
COLUMNS
Steve Drake
Tee off in Canada’s only true desert with this unforgettable golf getaway to Osoyoos—where championship courses, fine wine, and endless sunshine create the perfect escape.
Available worldwide. Request our photoshoot destination calendar: email: portfolio@glossy.media web portfolio: glossy.media
COLUMBIA REIGN NO SHINE™ JACKET
columbiasportswear.ca
This top-tier travel companion designed for adventurers who refuse to let the weather dictate their plans. Crafted with Columbia’s advanced OutDry™ Extreme technology, this jacket features a fully seam-sealed, waterproof membrane on the outside, eliminating the need for a DWR coating and ensuring longlasting dryness even in torrential downpours. Constructed from 100% recycled nylon, the jacket not only offers sustainability but also boasts features like underarm vents for breathability, an adjustable hood compatible with helmets, and a drawcord hem to seal out the elements. Its matte finish and external seam tape provide a sleek, modern look while enhancing durability. Whether you’re trekking through rain-soaked trails or navigating urban jungles, the Reign No Shine™ Jacket ensures you stay dry and comfortable without compromising on style or environmental responsibility.
NOCS PROVISIONS FIELD TUBE
nocsprovisions.ca
Compact, rugged, and ready for any adventure, the Nocs Field Tube is the waterproof monocular you’ve been waiting for. Designed for one-handed use with an oversized focus wheel and a grippy, wave-textured exterior, this travel-friendly tool delivers crystal-clear views thanks to fully multi-coated lenses and a precision 7-piece optical system. Whether you’re scanning shorelines, spotting wildlife, or taking in panoramic mountain vistas, the Field Tube performs rain or shine with its IPX7 waterproof and fogproof build. At just 8.4 oz, it’s light enough to carry everywhere—and tough enough to handle anything. Adventure never looked so good.
TRAVEL GEAR
mr-sunglass.com
Sleek, lightweight, and built for movement, the ADIDAS DUNAMIS EVO SP0106 21Z sunglasses are the ultimate travel companion. Featuring advanced UV protection, a secure wraparound fit, and impact-resistant lenses, they’re perfect for everything from city exploring to alpine adventures. Travel-ready performance meets signature Adidas style.
KNOG | SCOUT TRAVEL
knog.com
Take Luggage Security To Another Level - a sleek, durable, and highly functional travel accessory designed to keep your belongings secure and easily traceable. Crafted with a tamper-proof stainless steel cable and a fiber-reinforced, silicone-overmolded body, it attaches securely to any bag, ensuring it stays put throughout your journey. Additional features include USB-C rechargeable battery with a 2–4 month lifespan, water resistance, and the ability to manage up to 10 Scout devices via the Knog app. Available in various colors, the Knog Scout Travel Smart Luggage Tag is a musthave for any traveler seeking to enhance luggage security and tracking capabilities.
NORTH FACE VECTIV 3.0
Engineered for ultra-distance trail racing, The North Face’s Summit Series VECTIV™ Pro 3 Shoes combine cutting-edge technology with athlete-informed design. Featuring the VECTIV™ 3.0 system, these shoes utilize a dual-stacked carbon-fiber plate setup and nitrogen-infused DREAM foam to deliver exceptional propulsion and stability on varied terrains. The rockered midsole geometry enhances forward momentum, making them ideal for long-distance endeavors. The breathable, hydrophobic mesh upper ensures quick drying and comfort, while the SURFACE CTRL™ rubber outsole with 3.5 mm lugs provides reliable grip across diverse trail conditions. With a weight of approximately 10.37 oz (294 g) per shoe, they strike a balance between cushioning and responsiveness. Whether you’re tackling technical trails or smooth paths, the Summit Series VECTIV™ Pro 3 is designed to support your journey every step of the way.
PUFFIN DRINKWEAR
Add a splash of personality to your next adventure with Puffin Drinkwear—fun, functional can coolers that dress your beverages in style. Designed to look like miniature puffer jackets, flannels, wetsuits, and more, these clever sleeves don’t just turn heads—they keep your drinks cold and your hands dry. Perfect for beach days, road trips, mountaintop picnics, or backyard lounging, each Puffin is made from durable, high-quality materials that deliver reliable insulation and long-lasting charm. With a wide range of whimsical designs to choose from, Puffin Drinkwear is the ultimate conversation starter for travelers who like their gear to be as cool as their drinks.
TRAVEL GEAR
FENDER X TEUFEL ROCKSTER GO 2
us.teufelaudio.com
Where iconic design meets unstoppable sound—introducing the Fender x Teufel ROCKSTER GO 2. Built for travelers who want big sound without bulk, this ultra-portable speaker delivers punchy stereo audio and deep bass through dual aluminum drivers and a center passive radiator. With IP67-rated waterproofing, dust resistance, and cold-weather durability, it’s as tough as your adventures. Enjoy up to 28 hours of battery life in Eco Mode, quick USB-C charging, and a design inspired by Fender’s legendary amps and guitars. Included strap and Fender guitar pick? Just the encore this portable powerhouse deserves.
OTTOLOCK
ottodesignworks.com
For travelers seeking a compact and reliable security solution, the OTTOLOCK Cinch Lock offers an ideal blend of portability and strength. Weighing as little as 145 grams and coiling down to a 3-inch diameter, it’s easy to stow in a saddlebag, backpack, or even a pocket. Constructed with three layers of hardened stainless steel wrapped in an aramid fiber jacket, this lock provides a robust deterrent against opportunistic theft. The chip-resistant Cerakote® paint and Santoprene® plastic ensure durability without scratching your gear. Its keyless, resettable combination mechanism adds convenience, making it perfect for quick stops during your adventures.
SARNA BUG BITE PATCHES
sarnalotion.com
Say goodbye to itchy distractions on your adventures with Sarna Bug Bite Patches. These discreet, peel-and-stick hydrocolloid patches are infused with soothing botanicals like aloe, witch hazel, and chamomile, providing natural relief from insect bites. Designed to prevent scratching and picking, they create a protective barrier that promotes healing. Their mess-free, single-use format makes them a convenient addition to any travel kit. Safe for all ages, these vegan, steroid-free, and latex-free patches are gentle on sensitive skin, ensuring comfort wherever your journey takes you.
BY ALLISON FOAT
NAMIBIA AFRICA
LITTLE KULALA, SOSSUSVLEI
With a presence in eight African countries, conservation and hospitality outfit Wilderness currently safeguards 2.3 million hectares of Africa’s last true wild places. As curators of purpose-driven journeys, itineraries are rooted in integrity and fortified with consummate hospitality.
This time around, I visited three extremely remote camps across the country-untamed territories shrouded is solitude and dominated by desert. We began at Little Kulala, a subtly luxurious lodge embedded within 27,000 hectares of regenerated tundra and the frontrunner for discerning travelers seeking a stylish stay in close proximity, and with exclusive access, into the neighboring Namib-Naukluft National Park, a realm of terracotta dunes and the world’s most photogenic clay plan.
From the outset excursions were epic and the first one set the bar for my Namibian adventure and we wasted no time in getting right to it. One glass of lemonade and a lodge orientation later and we found ourselves poised like four superheroes on an impossibly high plateau, surveying the primordial scene below us. Chilled wine in hand, we watched in reverential awe, watching the day slip away as the sun exhaled in a flare of carmine before melting thickly into the horizon.
As I’ve often said, it is the guide who shapes the safari experience and to this end we
struck gold with Clement Lawrence. Namibian born and raised, he is a seasoned professional who has been instrumental in Wilderness’s Namibian operations for close to twenty years. He also oversees all guide training, raising up a new guard of his ilk which is something to be celebrated. A passionate storyteller with immense knowledge and an irresistible sense of humor, our escapades were peppered with rich conversation and he shepherded us with the utmost care, quickly becoming the heartbeat of my journey.
Sossusvlei was our first jaunt out of camp. An early departure netted a flotilla of hot air balloons preparing to take passengers for a dreamy drift
across the dunes, something that is next on my to-do list! From the parking lot it took twenty-minutes and a bout of thigh ache to reach the Deadvlei. As Clement put it, “dune hikes are great for walking, sweating and swearing, but the grand prize is worth it!” True story for the 900-yearold pan is the payoff, an arena of clay baked hard by a waterless eternity under the sun, its whiteness in magnificent contrast to the coppery Big Daddy, the celebrity dune that looms imposingly, 325 meters in height. Thoughts of hiking it were swiftly usurped by golden hour’s mesmeric display of soft light and shifting shadows- a fleeting moment that I was glad not to forego. Brunch afterwards in the shade of a camel
NAMIBIA IS CALLING.
IT’S TIME TO TAKE YOUR SOUL TRAVELING.
thorn, a lone oryx giving us the eye from a distance, brought the outing to a perfect end.
Designed with sustainability and architectural innovation at its core, Little Kulala maintains an ecofriendly footprint without sacrificing sophistication. The camp’s curved communal space sits under two conical thatch roofs combining the lounge, dining room and bar that flow onto a wraparound veranda. Swing chairs, tables and a pool are bolstered by the added indulgence of a small boutique and luxury spa. Décor plays on statement pieces and texture, evidenced in handwoven lampshades and coir mats, vintage glassware, and natural stone walls and floors in earthy tones sympathetic to the milieu. One level up is a library with reading nooks, a writing desk and wide windows with uninterrupted views across a rippling sand sea. A watering hole out front means that if your eyes are in the right place at the right time, you may well spot an elusive aardwolf,
bat-eared foxes, oryx or blackbacked jackals.
Eleven chalets, or ‘kulalas’ (meaning ‘to sleep’ in the local language), are connected to the main area by a wooden boardwalk that hovers just above the ground. Built from brick, thatch, wood and glass, each abode comes with a private plunge pool mid a spacious patio with a king-size bed under a retractable roof. It’s a superb touch, allowing guests the added thrill of a stargazing sleep-out under jet black night skies.
Meals at Little Kulala are served both indoors and out depending on the weather which is generally balmy and predictable. Lantern-lit dinners are particularly enchanting, the air warm and embracing, and at each sitting the cuisine team crafts innovative menus incorporating indigenous, locally procured ingredients into the mix. For an additional culinary highlight, be sure to snag an atmospheric dinner in the sunken wine cellar.
DESERT RHINO CAMP, IN DAMARALAND
Two hour-long flights and a short, scenic drive thereafter got us to our next destination, Desert Rhino Camp. Cradled in 550 000 hectares of rugged isolation, the camp lies deep within the Palmwag Conservancy in the heart of Damaraland. Managed in partnership with Save the Rhino Trust (SRT), the conservation message was solid from the minute we crossed the threshold.
A field station in its first iteration, Desert Rhino Camp exists today primarily as a base for tracking the rare, desert-adapted SouthWestern black rhinoceros. Thanks to a productive collaboration between the SRT, Wilderness and three community conservancies, the rhino population is holding fast, and thriving. Over lunch with the three rangers who were to lead our rhino tracking expedition we got the inspirational backstory to their work. Patrolling sections of an area roughly 25,000 km2 in size for up to twenty days at a time, theirs is a challenging gig that requires fortitude, fitness, skill “and a strong heart” said rhino guardian Karel Wethu, to withstand bribes from nefarious syndicates. It’s a tough job on all fronts but SRT incentivises and rewards their teams well and over the past two decades, brilliant strides have been made to reduce poaching.
On our excursion day, the scouts left way before us in search of rhino spoor. As soon as one was located Clement was alerted and drove us to the rendezvous point. We traipsed in single file, downwind and in silence for while rhinos are myopic, they are attuned to scent and sound. Sudden movement and noise can trigger a charge and since these animals are quite capable of racking up speeds of up to thirty miles per hour, drawing unwanted attention was not advisable. The sighting itself was a hallowed moment and we watched intently as the sturdy gray shape plodded slowly and with unusual grace across the slopes, horns not unlike two scythes in silhouette. All the while, the rangers made notes and shared information with us in
hushed tones. It was a masterclass in the field and we relished every minute.
Back at camp, six suites have been entirely re-imagined from stone, canvas, glass and wood and crowned with a low-slung canopy perfectly in sync with the tawny environs. The bedroom-come- sitting room is a cool respite, moored by a king size bed and an image of a black rhino directly above it, part of a series of archival photographs sourced by designer Cate Simpson. Of the two decks that bookend each dwelling, one overlooks an expansive prairie of stones, euphorbia and otherworldly welwitschias. The other overlooks the camp from an elevated deck strewn with plump cushions that summon matinee siestas in the soporific afternoon heat. The wide open spaces and absolute stillness was utterly seductive.
And, not to be overlooked, were the dinners prepared in and out of camp, dreamy al fresco pop-ups in magical locations with meals served by masterful cooks and introduced with song.
SERRA CAFEMA, IN THE MARIENFLUSS
Serra Cafema, ninety minutes by air from Desert Rhino Camp, is a joint venture between Wilderness and the Marienfluss Conservancy owned primarily by the Himba people. Built in a serene setting on the banks of the Kunene River, guests are privy to an astonishing conflation of habitats so typical of Namibia’s extreme north-western tip that borders Angola. Expect dunes smooth as cashmere juxtaposed with barren plains and jagged outcrops. This was the last of our three desert destinations and the one that boasted the most polarity and species diversity.
Clement curated a superb prelude to our Himba tribe visit with a drive up the mountain to catch the sunrise at Schoeman’s Viewpoint. The day dawned crisp and as he passed around steaming cups of coffee what unfolded was pure pageantry. The pastels presented in every hue imaginable, momentarily tingeing the peaks and plateaux in a violet veneer. Laying eyes on that surreal montage, reminiscent of a Pierneef painting, was euphoric and it was hard to tear ourselves away. Clement’s driving skills came to the fore right after that as he maneuvered the safari vehicle along tracks visible only to his eagle eye, and up and down vertiginous dunes. In the Kunene Sand Sea we stopped so trainee guide Ricardo could follow a viper trail he’d spotted from the van. It took a while to figure out where the snake was lurking but his perseverance paid off and it was eventually found holed up in the cleft of rock, not that we peered too closely. Yet another exciting, handson adventure.
We visited the Himba in Outapi, a temporary dwelling literally in the middle of nowhere. Dome-shaped dwellings (ongandas) made of wood, dung and animal skins sheltered a handful of families, part of the Vengipo clan. Since the men were away with the herds, we were met by the women and children, with genuine warmth and delight. The Himba are regal and handsome with a very distinct appearance. While the men sport a single plait down
the center of the head, all eyes are on the women. Their skin, hair and clothes are covered with otjize, a paste the color of burnt sienna and their hairdos are particularly elaborate, related to age, marital status, and ethnicity. Himba are semi-nomadic pastoralists whose presence and traditions are deeply interwoven with the land. In return for sharing their territory with camp Serra Cafema, Wilderness meets expressed needs and counts it a privilege to be able to assist with protection of their domain, places that are blissfully untainted by modern life and urban ways. Wilderness also lends support with educational program (Children in the Wilderness), a mobile clinic, water, and provisions. Clement, fluent in their native tongue- OtjiHimba – made the introductions and we were ushered graciously into one of the huts for a small fire ritual. Before leaving, a collection of their handiwork was laid out, a range of oversized neckpieces and bracelets made from beads, brass, leather and recycled materials, all guaranteed to turn heads on your next city walkabout. With that in mind, do remember to take cash along for your purchases.
Built around a cluster of aged albida trees, Serra Cafema is all about upscale simplicity with eight spacious river-facing suites that come with a separate living room, balcony and indoor and outdoor showers. Shoppers will find a wonderful collection of stylish apparel in the boutique including accessories, locallyproduced beauty products, books and other appealing mementos. Aside from the obligatory retail therapy, camp activities also include dune hikes, quad biking in monitored areas, seasonal boating and nature drives. From the kitchen comes fine fare served with traditional warmth and faultless hospitality.
This was a trip that catapulted me into a hidden world of everlasting deserts and unblemished landscapes. It morphed into a spiritual reboot hat was underpinned by the undiluted wonderment that comes with connecting to nature in its purest form.
They say Namibia is the land God made in anger. To wit, fury begets magnificence in a land so achingly beautiful it will bring you to your knees.
/18 EUROPE
This train needs no introduction, as it is well known to everyone, partly thanks to the novel Murder on the Orient Express (1934) by Agatha Christie, and films such as Bram Stoker’s Dracula (1992) or From Russia with Love (1963), from the saga of the famous Agent 007, which used it as a setting, or even a common thread, in their plots.
Although its prominence is not only due to literary inventions or the big screen. It has witnessed numerous historical events such as when, in 1901, the brakes failed and the locomotive stopped inside a restaurant. In 1918, an armistice was signed prior to the Treaty of Versailles in one of its passenger cars. In 1920, French President Paul Deschanel resigned from his post after falling out of one of the windows, having ingested a large quantity of sleeping pills. King Carol II of Romania fled his country during the partisan revolution on one of these trains, taking with him money, jewelery, paintings and everything else he could. In March 1945, Hitler ordered the SS to blow up CIWL No. 2410, the car in which the armistice was signed after the First World War, a humiliating symbol of German defeat.
Some sp stories have also been proven true, such as that of the Englishman Robert Baden-Powell –founder of the Scouts – who, posing as an entomologist, transported coded representations of the location of the fortifications on the
Dalmatian coast, among the shapes and colors of the wings of butterflies depicted in his sketches, which were of great help to the British and Italian armies in the First World War. Celebrities such as Marlene Dietrich, Mata Hari, Ernest Hemingway and Lawrence of Arabia crossed the continent on the original route.
A train that is a benchmark and that, although it officially ended after decades of decline on May 19, 1977, rose again from its ashes, like the Phoenix, transformed into the Venice Simplon Orient Express from 1982.
THE MOST LEGENDARY TRAIN IN THE WORLD
VENICE SIMPLON ORIENT EXPRESS
BY SERGI REBOREDO
EXTRAVAGANCE
ON WHEELS
In addition to the classic ParisIstanbul route, which only runs once a year in September, Orient Express offers other options on board its legendary train, the Venice Simplon Orient Express, such as the standard two-day, one-night trip between Venice and Paris, which takes in four countries: Italy, Austria, Switzerland, France and the United Kingdom. It also has variants that make stops in Prague and Budapest.
The journey described below begins at Venice station at 11:30 a.m., arriving in Innsbruck in the midafternoon. It continues to Zurich, where it arrives late at night. It
reaches Paris early in the morning the following day and, after crossing the Eurotunnel in Calais by bus, and changing on the English side to another legendary train, the British Pullman, it reaches London at around 5:45 p.m.
Everything about this train is in keeping with the original idea of its creator, Georges Nagelmackers: luxury and extravagance on wheels. 18 fully restored carriages from the 1920s and 1930s make up the train, 12 sleeping cars, three restaurant cars, a bar car and two extra cars that provide accommodation for staff and storage for luggage and supplies.
The cabins, which consist of a large sofa, a seat and a small folding table, become a comfortable room with a bed at night, while travelers enjoy an exquisite dinner in the restaurant car. Elegantly camouflaged is a washbasin with hot and cold water (this type of accommodation does not have a toilet). For greater comfort, for a higher price the large suite is available, with a huge double bed, living room, private bathroom and shower. One butler per car is responsible for attending to any requests on board and for serving afternoon tea with pastries or morning breakfast directly to the room.
ROMANTIC VENICE
An hour before departure, passengers flutter around the platform at Venice’s Santa Lucia station, waiting for the Venice Simplon Orient Express to make its triumphant entrance. The excitement is palpable. Among the passengers are diplomats, bankers, aristocrats, businessmen, successful artists... and some writers, for whom this trip may be a source of inspiration. Louis Vuitton bags, Armani suits and other extravagant designs compete for attention.
The city of Venice, from which the convoy departs, is not chosen at random. The most famous train in the world had to leave from the most romantic city in Europe. And Venice is.
Its small size makes it perfect for wandering aimlessly beyond the wellknown Piazza San Marco, the Palazzo Ducale or the much-photographed Rialto Bridge, discovering the tranquility of its narrow streets, such as Calletta Varisco, which, at 53 cm wide, is one of the narrowest in the world.
Venice, as is well known, is surrounded by water and its main artery is the Grand Canal, where vaporettos, boats and gondolas sail at any time. A ride on one of them can be one of the most romantic ways to start the trip, but you have to be prepared to pay a whopping €80 for a 40-minute ride.
CROSSING THE DOLOMITES
At 11.30 the train sets off eastwards. The buildings gradually disappear from the windows as we drive through the Veneto region, and the greenery takes over the landscape.
Tattinger champagne is served inside. While they sip it, some passengers prefer to leave the doors of their cabin open, so they can see the landscape on both sides or chat with their fellow passengers.
At 13.15 the train stops for a few moments at Verona station to continue on to Trento. The vineyards and fruit trees that have been with us for quite some time are left
behind and the landscape becomes rugged and mountainous. We are passing by the Dolomites, the great Alpine mountain range that stretches across northern Italy. Its geological formation is different from that of the rest of the Alps; It is characterized by vast valleys covered by forests and meadows from which numerous and isolated mountain ranges rise imposingly, rising vertically for hundreds of meters, some of which are more than 3,000 m high, formed mostly by a limestone rock of marine origin called dolomite, from which it takes its name.
Lunch is served in two sittings in the three luxury restaurants: Cote d’Azur, Etoile du Nord or L’Oriental. The menu offers a three-course menu, with a highlight being lobster gratin on caviar cream and mashed potatoes. For dessert, a selection of French cheeses and pastries. The wine list is extensive, but not included in the price of the ticket.
At 5.30pm the train enters Innsbruck station, where most passengers get off to stretch their legs and take a photo.
Located in a wide bend of the Inn, tiny Innsbruck is the political and cultural capital of Tyrol, as well as
a famous winter resort where the Olympic Games have been held twice. The old town, which can be visited on a cheerful walk, exudes elegance and beauty. It stretches between the river and the streets Herzog Friedrich Strasse and Maria Theresien Strasse. Its splendor is due to the House of Habsburg, especially Maximilian I, who established his residence here and embellished it with palaces, columns and churches, such as the Hofkirche, where he and other monarchs are buried. He is also responsible for the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), from 1500, which opens onto the former palace of the Dukes of Tyrol. It is a balcony gallery, covered with copper tiles and decorated with reliefs referring to his life and exploits, which has become the main tourist attraction in the city.
From the City Tower (Stadtturm), located very close by, you can get a good panoramic view of the houses and the river, framed by the nearby mountains, Bergisel and Patscherkofel. Another monumental jewel is the imperial palace, Hofburg, one of the most splendid of Austria’s past, where illustrious figures such as Maria Theresa and Sisi passed through.
GOLDEN INNSBRUCK
DINNER ON THE WAY TO ZURICH
Back on the train, from midafternoon onwards, strict etiquette is required to celebrate the evening. The piano is playing in the bar car. Here passengers wait for dinner time listening to music and drinking a cocktail, such as the “Guilty 12”, created by the waiter Walter in 2008 and which, as he explains, contains 12 secret ingredients that represent each of the murderers in the plot of Murder on the Orient Express, the famous novel by Agatha Christie. Despite the name, no one seems to feel guilty about drinking a couple of them.
It is already dark when the train arrives in Zurich, the largest city in
Switzerland, located on the banks of the Limmat River and Lake Zurich. It is considered one of the cities with the best quality of life in the world, and also one of the most expensive. It has more than 50 museums and a hundred art galleries. Its latest acquisition is the FIFA Museum, a must for football lovers.
The main attraction is the Grossmünter, a 15th-century Romanesque church that played an important role during Luther’s Reformation. Its twin towers are visible from many points. Walking through the narrow streets of the old town, taking a boat ride on the lake, having a mid-afternoon drink at
Frau Gerold, or swimming in one of the badis – bathing areas along the river – are other attractions of this cosmopolitan city.
GOOD MORNING, PARIS
When passengers wake up, they must press a call button to alert the steward to serve them breakfast, which is taken individually in each compartment. The sun begins to filter through the window and the train enters the Gare de l’Est. It is the end of the journey for some passengers, others will continue on to London.
Paris is always torn between the avant-garde and memory, between renewal and nostalgia. So often the cultural capital of the world, it refuses to lose the prominence it has always had. Parks and gardens, streets and avenues, boulevards and squares are possibly the first things that catch the visitor’s attention when they arrive in this
great city. The Champs Elysees, the Luxembourg Gardens, the Tuileries, the Champ de Mars, the Place des Invalides are places that relax and oxygenate. The Gothic style of NotreDame (damaged by the last great fire) is impressive, as is the metallic balance of the Eiffel Tower, the white stone of the Sacré Coeur and its painters’ quarter, the artistic capacity of the Louvre or the architectural rigidity of the Montparnasse tower, from whose more than 210 m you can admire a view of the city that extends below like a stone mantle dotted with the leaden and grayish roofs of the classic Parisian houses. The tranquility and rest of the cemeteries contrast with the traffic and movement of squares such as l’Etoile, where twelve avenues lead out, or the Concorde.
Paris is a city that possibly changes more than any other between day and night. The City of Light thus lives up to its nickname. One of the best ways to see this is to board a bateau mouche and sail along the Seine, under its bridges, admiring its most famous buildings.
CALAIS AND THE EUROTUNNEL
The Orient Express continues to clatter along. At around 11am a delicious brunch is served. The waiters dressed in their impeccable black and white suits contort their bodies to prevent any plate or tray from landing on the floor. The pleasure of eating also comes from the sight and the silver cutlery and English crockery play a key role.
At 1.30pm we arrive at Calais, where all the passengers get off to cross the English Channel on a support coach that awaits us at the same station. After passing through English customs one by one, the passengers get back on the bus, which boards one of the Eurostar trains. This
tunnel was opened on 6 May 1994 and allows the journey between Coquelles (France) and Folkestone (United Kingdom) to be made in just 35 minutes. It is the third longest tunnel in the world and the first in terms of an underwater section.
Once we reach the English end, the bus heads towards Folkestone train station, where a group of musicians liven up the wait while the British Pullman appears, where we will continue our journey.
THE BRITISH ORIENT
At 16.10 the brown convoy of the British Pullman, an English equivalent to the Venice Simplon Orient Express, pulls into platform 1: a delight of art deco style carriages, rescued and restored from the golden age of British railways.
The Pullman today consists of 11 carriages with evocative names: Audrey, Gwen, Ibis, Minerva, Perseus... Our carriage is the Cygnus, and a plaque inside reminds us that it was built in 1938. Among its services, it is noted that it attended Winston Churchill’s funeral. Each carriage has its own story; the Phoenix, for example, was destroyed in a fire in 1936, but its chassis was saved and fully recovered in 1952. Today it boasts fine floral marquetry, in American cherry wood.
The convoy is pulled by a DB Schenker Class 67 diesel engine, although on very special occasions it uses a 35028 Clan Line steam locomotive, which needs to stop to refill the engine with water.
Through the window, the typical landscapes of the English countryside pass by, dominated by large green fields where sheep graze freely.
At 5 p.m., like good Englishmen, tea is served, accompanied by chicken brioches, smoked salmon and truffle sandwiches, roast sirloin delicacies, cheese and sweet cakes, all made by Claire Clark, one of the best pastry chefs in the world.
VICTORIA STATION
Warehouses, industries and graffiti everywhere indicate that we are leaving the countryside behind and approaching the center of London, the British capital. After a while, some red double-decker buses can be seen. We are entering the emblematic Victoria Station in London.
It is 6.30 pm and the station is a hive of people, most of them workers who, once the day is over, are returning home by train. The peace and harmony that we had shared over the previous two days is beginning to dissipate in the face of the stress and chaos of the great European city. Welcome to reality.
FRANCE
SELF-DRIVE CRUISING ON THE CANAL DU RHÔNE À SÈTE
BY LARA DUNN
The Canal du Rhône à Sète was started in 1773 with the aim of creating a trade route connecting the River Rhône with south-west France. It wasn’t until 1828 that the route linked up with both the port of Sète on the Étang de Thau and beyond to join the Canal du Midi at Marseillan. It now stretches 98km, with the Étang de Thau a further 18km and has no locks to worry about, making it an excellent choice for less experienced boaters.
For the first day our route resembled many of the French canals and boating rivers we had sailed before, tree-lined, with well-maintained paths busy with cyclists and fishermen. The town of Saint-Gilles-du-Gard marked a good stop, offering a historic cathedral to visit as well as excellent restaurants and a bustling market. After Saint-Gilles, as the trees started to thin out, the views began to stretch out to include scrubby fields
and it wasn’t long before we spotted our first white horses, grazing peacefully. Small semi-feral horses like these have been grazing these marginal pastures for centuries, possibly thousands of years and are the mount of choice for the region’s famous gardians – the Camargue riders. It was a thrill to see them.
Passing by other small towns and villages, we made our way straight to AiguesMortes to stay for a couple of days. We were in the French region famed for its bull festivals and many were scheduled for during our stay, but we were keen to avoid them so had planned our itinerary accordingly. The feria, and the vibrant celebrations that accompany it, is very much a part of traditional life in Occitanie even today – virtually every town has a bull ring - it just wasn’t for us. Aigues-Mortes is named for the still water marshes on which the town sits, and which provide the bountiful pink sea
salt that’s famed throughout the world as a culinary ingredient. We moored up in the marina just a stone’s throw from the medieval town walls and the incredible 13th-century Tour de Constance. It was just a short walk into the town where cobbled streets are lined by shops and restaurants, offering everything the visitor could wish for. We spotted the local specialty – Fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes – in the window of a boulangerie-patisserie. Flavored with orange flour water, this sweet bread is what I imagine it would be like to eat a cloud. A walk around the ramparts with its 15 towers is an absolute must (Euros 9 for an adult), and takes a good length of time, circumnavigating the town and offering ever-changing views, many out across the marshes towards the Mediterranean.
We decided to stay a while longer to enjoy the area, taking a bus to the nearby seaside resort of Le-Grau-du-Roi (Euro 1). A walk along the sea in the sunshine was punctuated nicely by a decadently lazy seafood lunch at La Guingette des Pieds Nu a beachside restaurant that quite literally has its feet in the sand. Taking the advice of the restaurant’s name, we wandered barefoot back along the strand to the town, before popping shoes back on for the walk back to Aigues-Mortes. The views out across the marshes on the hour-long dead-flat walk back were something else, particularly as we arrived back just as the sun was setting. Flocks of delicately pink flamingos echoed the pink of the sunset, as they gathered in the shallow water to feed from the mud. It doesn’t get much more iconically Camargue a view than that!
Departing Aigues-Mortes the next morning, the weather was far from clear and sunny. The weather reports had warned that the mistral was on its way, bringing gray and chillier conditions along with the famous wind. We were happy though, the boat was cozy and the views out across the salt marshes of the Camargue more than made up for any shortfalls in the weather as we steadily meandered our way out into ever wilder landscapes. Very soon, the canal became a channel between narrow walls of stone, the only point of difference between the navigable waters and the open marshes and lagoons beyond. Birdlife was plentiful, monochrome egrets and cranes alongside their more colorful cousins the flamingo, which seemed to get more numerous the further we progressed. Kingfishers were also a surprisingly frequent dash of color, darting alongside the boat as we sailed. Despite the windier weather we decided to stick to our plan of mooring up at one of the remotest spots along the canal, in a unique position between the Étang de Vic and the open waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Accessible only by bicycle or foot along the towpath, a nature reserve occupied the quiet space between the canal and a magnificent pebble and seashell beach – the Plage Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (be warned, part of it is dedicated to naturists!). The roiling skies and crashing waves meant it wasn’t swimming weather, but we had the option of returning on
our way back if the conditions changed. Lying in my cabin that night I was lulled to sleep by the waves lapping against the hull of the boat and the unique sound of the nocturnal honking of flamingos. Equally memorable was sunrise the next morning, with the sun rising above the Mediterranean, transforming both sea and sky into flaming pinks and oranges.
The next morning, the small town of Les Aresquiers was a short ride on the boat’s bicycles to fetch extra bottled water for the rest of the day to give us the option to push on through the Frontignan lift bridge if the weather had improved. The lift bridge is only open twice a day and is the only access to Sète and the Étang de Thau beyond, so we needed to give ourselves the flexibility to take the opportunity if it was there. It wasn’t. On our arrival in the town, the wind was still blowing harder than the guidance for crossing the huge Étang de Thau. We had a choice to make. We had no idea when the wind would change and the last thing we wanted was to rush in order to make it to the other side of the Étang just for the sake of it. So, the decision was made to stay put in Frontignan, take advantage of its restaurants, bars and shops (including local wine merchants), and also take a few day trips using the train station. A busy little town with excellent places to eat and drink and a lively market on Thursdays and Saturdays, Frontignan is also an excellent base from which to explore the area. Sète was only a 25-minute train journey and despite the still blowy conditions, was a lovely change of scene, with its picturesque harbor crammed with every type of boat from trawlers to the traditional rowing boats that feature in its annual water jousting festival in the last week of August. The sun was shining even if the temperatures didn’t quite match, and we felt that we had definitely made the right choice to not tackle the Étang de Thau, especially when we got back to the station where metal litter bins were being thrown around willy nilly by the wind.
Béziers was to have been our end point in the original plan, the point at which we would turn around and start our journey back. The new plan had us in Béziers by train within an hour from Frontignan. Located on the far side of the
Étang de Thau, Béziers is a sizable and elegant city with buildings and streets spanning influences from Roman times through medieval and 19th-century Hausmann-esque buildings that show off its success in the wine industry. A walk uphill through the verdant 19th-century Jardin des Poètes from the station soon took us to the city center, with its sundrenched streets, warmer now for the calmer weather. A sobering visit to the Romanesque Église de la Madeleine, the scene of one of the bloodiest massacres of the Albigensian Crusade in 1209, would have been followed by a more life-afforming trip to the city’s market hall, popular for its stalls showcasing the superb food and drink of the area. Sadly, it was closed for renovation but is due to open again very soon. Walking out to the 9 locks on the Canal du Midi took us over the Pont Vieux with its magnificent views up towards the Cathedral, and along the River Orb below. Watching a steady stream of boats struggle through the 9 locks on the canal certainly made us glad we were on the lock-free Canal du Rhône à Sète! The Petit Train from the locks may have cost us euros 8 each but it was a relaxing and informative alternative to a long walk back to town and passed some interesting sights.
After a wander around the market in Frontignan, a paradise of local produce and a great place to pick up some freshly cooked bits and pieces for lunch, as well as a few bottles of the sweet local Muscat de Frontignan and muscat grape juice we began our slow journey back towards Bellegarde. We were in no rush, with plenty of time left to pause along the way, but we were aware that we now had a deadline of sorts, and an appointment with a certain beach now that the sun had made a reappearance and the wind had dropped. It was well worth the visit, and the peace and tranquility of swimming from that beach will long be remembered. After drying off in the sunshine for a while, we reluctantly headed back to the boat again. This time we were making our way to Gallician, from where we were hoping to be able to pay a visit to Le Centre du Scamandre – a nature reserve with walking paths. Being at the heart of the Costières de Nîmes AOC wine area, Gallician’s wine
cooperative was on the must-visit list too. Unfortunately for us, the Centre du Scamandre was closed on both the days we happened to be in Gallician (closed Sundays and Mondays), but a plate of rich tender gardiane de taureau washed down with local beers and red wine at the simple but excellent Café du Pont quickly made up for our disappointment. Our time in Camargue felt like it was coming to an end.
We sailed in sunshine on our final day, enjoying the herons and kingfishers along the canal but missing the flamboyant and noisy flamingos. A final lunch at Le Guingette du Pont de Broussant, a hidden gem just outside Bellegarde more easily accessible by boat than by car and which only served one choice of main course and dessert each day, was a great end to our journey. As the sun went down, we toasted our voyage happily, with a good glass of Costières de Nîmes of course!
JESSICA CARLSÉN
COWS LIVING THEIR BEST LIFE IN BOLONIA BEACH, CADIZ
A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY
Born in Luxembourg and raised in Finland, Jessica has always been drawn to the warmth and vibrancy of the Mediterranean. Inspired by its sun-drenched landscapes, diverse nature, and rich culture, her photography captures the aesthetics of coastal life. Her work has been featured in several magazines, and she is currently creating a coffee table book that celebrates the essence of the Mediterranean lifestyle.
COASTAL BEACHES WITH CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS, COSTA BLANCA
HISTORICAL HOUSES IN ALICANTE
SUMMERTIME IN ALICANTE
DUE TO 300 DAYS ON SUNSHINE, OUTDOORS SPORTS LIKE TENNIS ARE POPULAR
COASTAL SPAIN HOST MANY HARBORS FROM PEOPLE ARRIVING AROUND THE EUROPE
SUNSET WITH A LOCAL IN TORREBLANCA, MALAGA
PORTUGAL
THANKS TO AN ENVIABLE YEAR-ROUND CLIMATE WITH PLENTY OF SUNNY DAYS, PORTUGAL HAS ALWAYS BEEN ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST POPULAR GOLFING DESTINATIONS. HERE ARE TEN OF THE BEST COURSES, STARTING IN THE NORTH OF THE COUNTRY AROUND PORTO, HEADING SOUTH INTO THE OESTE REGION (ABOVE LISBON) AND THEN DOWN INTO THE ALGARVE.
BY ANDREW MARSHALL
PONTE DE LIMA
Located close to the border with Spain’s Galicia region, and about an hour’s drive from Porto, is Ponte de Lima - a varied mountain layout with glorious views (especially from holes 2 and 8) over the Lima Valley and the historic town of Viana do Castelo 20 km away. One of the interesting holes is the extremely long par5 3rd, and at 622-meters off the white tees it’s one of the longest in Europe. The surrounding area is
well known for its solares (restored historical manors converted into guest-houses). In fact, Ponte de Lima has one on the course itself, with its Anquiao Manor House in a private setting right next to the 4th tee. Golfing guests can tee off at the 4th, call at the clubhouse for lunch and then continue until the 3rd green and home. The comfortable forty room Axis Ponte de Lima Golf Resort Hotel is also right on site next to the golf course.
ESTELA GOLF CLUB
Built over three kilometers of beautiful dunes on the Costa Verde and set tight to the pummelling Atlantic Ocean, Estela is a testing pure links especially when the prevailing north winds blow. It successfully hosted the Portuguese Open in 1991, three years after its inauguration. With narrow fairways all the pressure is placed on the tee shot. There are few fairway bunkers on the course, simply because they are not needed. Miss a fairway at Estela, and the dunes will welcome you. Just like a traditional Irish or Scottish links, most shots at the greens are open, allowing the ball to enter them rolling. The speedy well-contoured greens made with Penncross bent grass are typical of a links layout. The signature hole is the 13th, a 457-meter downhill par5 to the most southerly point on the course, with nothing but ball-hungry dunes on the right and a sneaky little dogleg at the end.
The scenic surroundings are one of the attractions of Golfe Amarante situated 50 km east of Porto. The relative shortness of the track (5,085metres) is compensated by a number of tricky holes throughout the undulating and hilly terrain. Good distance control and judgment are requirements and there’s plenty of downhill, uphill and side-hill lies to add to the challenge. To score well here, you must ideally master the seven par-three’s on the card, especially since most of the greens are small and fast.
Amarante’s intriguing par-3’s range from 110 to 175 meters, with the 165-meter 15th being a standout hole, played from an elevated tee to a green surrounded by a backdrop of vineyards which look especially beautiful in autumn colors. The 306-meter, par-4 4th hole is a classic. Locals call it the ‘volcano’ because of the conical-shaped mound sloping on all sides on which the narrow green is situated.
GOLFE AMARANTE
DOLCE CAMPO REAL
The Dolce Campo Real Lisboa has rapidly become one of Portugal’s most exciting golf and leisure developments featuring an 18-hole layout by Donald Steel. Etched into the dramatic rolling hills, vineyards and steep wooded valleys of the surrounding countryside, the course will challenge and delight even the most experienced players, with several uphill and downhill drives that make for an exciting round. The 478-meter 17th is a cracking par-5 played from an elevated tee-block offering superb views and a very real chance of birdie or possibly eagle. If you hit a poor drive here, you will find it difficult to resist hitting a mulligan. Enjoyable, beautiful and serene, the quality of the CampoReal course is matched only by its luxury accommodation, clubhouse and superb facilities.
BOM SUCESSO
This championship course is another Donald Steel design in Portugal and a welcome addition to the up-andcoming Oeste golfing scene north of Lisbon. Opened for play since 2008, the course is the centerpiece of a five-star resort complex that features master architect-designed apartments, villas and leisure facilities. The layout is split into two nines, with a gentle and level front nine leading to a more spectacular back nine on rolling terrain. Like all good courses the finish at Bom Sucesso is particularly memorable; the par-4 16th is played uphill with the green set into a hillside, then it’s a spectacular drive at the dogleg par-5 17th with gorgeous views of Óbidos Lake and the distant mountains, and the final hole is a downhill par-4 18th with a stream cutting across the fairway and water guarding the green.
PRAIA D’EL REY
Star billing of Portugal’s Oeste region courses must arguably go to Cabell B.Robinson’s wild and wonderful Praia D’El Rey - a marvelous combination of a parkland front nine that cuts through deep pine forest and a links land back nine that follows the coast with spectacular views over the Atlantic and the Berlenga Islands beyond. After the tighter pine-lined fairways of the opening nine, the course opens up and heads towards the pummeling Atlantic offering all the elements of a Scottish or Irish links, but with warmer weather. Bold deep bunkers, undulating greens, and natural sand border areas contrast sharply with the lush green fairways. The signature stretch of holes is from 12-15 that runs along the coast, and a mention must go to the 17th, a monster uphill par-5 measuring 570 meters.
MONTE REI GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
Situated about a 40-minute drive of Faro, in the picturesque foothills of the eastern Algarve with sweeping views of the Serra do Caldeirão mountains to the north, and the Atlantic Ocean to the south, Montei Rei is one of Portugal’s top tracks. Yes, you need deep pockets to play, but with the level of presentation and attention to detail second to none, it all adds to the exclusive golfing experience. This Jack Nicklaus creation rambles over 6,567 meters of ever-changing terrain, with a wonderful variety of holes where each one is as memorable as the next. Fairways and greens are bordered by several lakes (water comes into play on eleven of the eighteen holes), and interspersed with indigenous trees, plants and native grasses. If you can steer you ball into the right positions, and stay away from the water hazards, it is the classic green complexes surrounded by distinctively shaped and sculpted bunkers, plus the slick and undulating putting surfaces that are Monte Rei’s main defense.
SALGADOS GOLF
Located between the coastal towns of Armação de Pêra and Albufeira west of Faro, the Salgados course has been laid out adjacent to a protected bird reserve in low-lying wetlands near Praia de Gale beach. When you first set eyes on its lush green fairways dotted with palms and water, you could be excused for thinking it was Florida or the Caribbean. Water hazards feature on 16 of the 18 holes, and you need to plot your way strategically around to achieve a decent score. One of the star holes is the 6th, a par-5 dogleg right where the fairway is flanked with the nature reserve on the left and water on the right. Once you are safely on the short stuff, it’s a case of advancing your second shot as far as you can, otherwise it will be a daunting mid-iron over water to a large green featuring a pronounced back to front slant. A well-struck drive away from the course is the well-appointed Salgados Resort offering guests an authentic oasis atmosphere in verdant, extensive gardens, with several swimming pools nestling amid palm and olive trees.
QUINTA DO LAGO
Situated just 15 minutes drive from Faro airport, and set in 2,000 acres of verdant countryside and pine forest bordering the Atlantic and the Ria Formosa Nature Park, Quinta do Lago has been at the forefront of European golf since opening in 1972. The five-star resort features three award-winning 18-hole championship courses – the South Course, Laranjal and the widelyacclaimed North Course, co-designed by Ryder Cup-winning captain Paul McGinley. The jewel in the complex’s crown is the South Course which has hosted the Portuguese Open on several occasions. Plotted around umbrella pines, lakes and wild flowers, this superbly manicured track requires the correct positioning of shots to score well. Basically the same style as its sister course, the North is noted for its four excellent par-5 holes and numerous dog-legs that require accuracy off the tee. Featuring the same consistently high quality from tee to green as the other two layouts and built on ideal, rolling terrain around five attractive lakes, the Laranjal course which opened in 2011 completes 54-holes of stunning golf.
VALE DO LOBO
The top-quality Vale do Lobo Golf & Beach Resort in the Algarve is home to two special courses – the Ocean and the Royal. Based on Sir Henry Cotton’s original design concepts and redeveloped by respected American golf architect Rocky Roquemore, both courses have twice been host to the Portuguese Open. The Royal Course is famous for one of the most photographed holes in Europe - the par-3 16th. Set amid orange, fig and olive trees with rolling pine-covered terrain on one side and orange rock cliffs on the other, a well-struck tee shot (over 200 meters from the championship tees) is required to carry a series of precipitous cliffs before the green. Another excellent par-3 is to be found on the Ocean Course, and the scenic 15th which runs tight to the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean would receive a lot more attention if not for the fact that it is overshadowed be the signature 16th on the Royal. Both courses are equally top-notch, and if you have the time you are advised to play both.
ITALY
BY MATTHEW SCHUELLER
There’s a certain kind of magic that happens when a place exceeds your expectations, not in grandeur or spectacle, but in its quiet, personal moments. For my husband Michael and me, Cinque Terre was exactly that kind of place.
After a few bustling days in Milan, we boarded a train heading south with two overpacked suitcases and a healthy dose of excitement. Our destination: Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of Cinque Terre and our home base for the next three days. Getting there
CINQUE TERRE ISN’T JUST PHOTOGENIC. IT’S POETIC. IT CHALLENGES YOU WITH ITS TERRAIN AND THEN REWARDS YOU TENFOLD
/53 CINQUE TERRE
was easy—Italy’s rail system makes these cliff-hugging towns surprisingly accessible—but the real challenge came when we arrived. Riomaggiore is a vertical town, a pastel maze stacked into the hillside, where navigating with suitcases felt… challenging. We huffed and puffed our way through winding alleys and up endless stairs to our tiny Airbnb perched high above the harbor.
The view was straight from a postcard: the Mediterranean below, the late afternoon sun bathing the buildings in gold, the gentle sound of waves and laughter drifting up from town. We cracked open a bottle of limoncello, leaned into our plastic chairs, and exhaled. Cinque Terre had officially arrived.
Riomaggiore: The Charm of the First Town
We spent our first evening letting ourselves get lost. Riomaggiore isn’t big, but it feels infinite when you wander its backstreets. Every turn reveals a new staircase, a colorful shutter, or an old man tending his plants from a wrought-iron balcony. We made our way down to the rocky shoreline where tiny crabs skittered between the boulders. From the edge of the jetty, the
view back toward the village was something out of a fairytale—vivid buildings clinging impossibly to the cliffs, laundry fluttering like flags.
Evening brought a shift. As the last of the day-trippers boarded their trains back to Florence or La Spezia, the town transformed. The streets emptied, the sea quieted, and we felt like the only two tourists left in the town, though we most certainly weren’t, it still felt special. We walked the cobbled alleys in silence, soaking in the stillness, passing by shuttered storefronts and glowing lamplight.
Dinner, we discovered, takes planning in Cinque Terre. Many restaurants close early or fill up quickly, especially in shoulder season. We lucked out finding a cozy spot down an alley, and while we waited for a table, we swapped stories with fellow travelers under twinkling string lights. Our reward? Dishes like rabbit ragù, fresh pesto, and octopus so tender it felt like silk on the tongue. It was humble, heartwarming, and very, very Italian.
Hiking the Trails of the Riviera from Corniglia to Vernazza
The next morning, fueled by cappuccinos and croissants, we set off to hike the famed Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), a network of cliffside paths linking the five towns. Our plan was to hike from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, but a section between Riomaggiore and Corniglia was closed for maintenance, so we hopped on a short train ride and began our journey in Corniglia.
If you start your hike in Corniglia, prepare your calves. From the train station, it’s a nearly vertical climb, with hundreds of stairs leading up to the hilltop town. We arrived sweaty and breathless but quickly forgot our aching legs as we wandered through the sleepy village. Corniglia may be the smallest of the five towns, but it packs charm. The views alone— from the terraced vineyards to the turquoise sweep of the sea made the climb worth it.
From there, we hiked toward Vernazza, perhaps the crown jewel of Cinque Terre. The trail meandered through cypress trees, and around precarious cliffs, each turn offering a new vantage point. We paused often, not just to catch our breath, but to admire the surreal beauty of the coastline. The sea shimmered below in a palette of blue and green, and when a break in the clouds let sunlight pour through, the entire landscape lit up in a way that stopped us in our tracks.
Despite it being October, we hiked in t-shirts. The air was cool but the trail was demanding enough to warm us quickly. Unlike summer, when these paths are clogged with tourists, we found the trail peacefully quiet, with just a few other hikers.
As we crossed the final hill, Vernazza came into view, and I swear we both audibly gasped. It’s one of those rare places that looks better than any photo could ever capture. We followed the scent of smoke and garlic to a cliffside restaurant where we sat with a view of the town’s harbor, sharing an octopus salad tossed with crisp celery and bright olive oil. It was one of the best meals we had in Italy, not because it was fancy or paired wonderfully with white wine, but because it was exactly what we needed, exactly where we needed it.
A Spontaneous Swim in Manarola
With our stomachs full and spirits high, we wandered Vernazza’s narrow streets, ducking into tiny shops and climbing hidden staircases. We considered continuing the hike to Monterosso but, in true vacation fashion, decided instead to savor the moment. As it got later, we caught the train back down the coast and made an impulsive decision to stop in Manarola.
Which was honestly… Best. Decision. Ever.
Manarola, especially at golden hour, is cinematic. Locals and visitors alike perched on the rocks, kids leapt fearlessly into the sea, and the sky turned sherbet pink as the sun dipped toward the horizon. Without overthinking it, we joined in. Stripping to our shorts, we jumped into the water and swam beneath cliffs and color. It felt wild, freeing, and completely perfect. Afterward, we dried ourselves with our shirts and air dried on the rocks for just a bit longer. We wandered slowly back toward the train station, passing busy restaurants, and a couple performers playing soft music. It was the kind of evening that made us wish we could bottle it up and take it home with us.
Saying Goodbye to Cinque Terre
Our last night in Riomaggiore was quiet and slow. We returned to our apartment, poured the last of our limoncello, and sat on the balcony watching the lights dance on the water. It felt like we were in our own world. Cinque Terre isn’t just photogenic (though it is that, overwhelmingly so). It’s poetic. It challenges you with its terrain and then rewards you tenfold. It invites you to slow down, to savor, to let go of itineraries and just go with the flow.
Would we go back? Absolutely. But more than that, we left with something permanent—a set of memories that feel almost fictional in their perfection. It’s not every day you get to live inside a storybook. But for three days, we did.
IF YOU GO: TIPS FOR VISITING CINQUE TERRE
Getting There: The easiest way is by train. From Milan, it’s about 3.5 hours to Riomaggiore, with a transfer in La Spezia.
Where to Stay: Consider Riomaggiore or Manarola for quieter evenings. Book early and be prepared for stairs—many accommodations require some uphill walking.
When to Go: Late spring and early fall offer great weather and fewer crowds. October was a perfect mix of cool air and warm sun.
Dining: Reserve ahead or be flexible. Many places are small and fill quickly. Don’t be afraid to try something new—octopus salad is a must.
Hiking: Trails can close due to weather or maintenance. Check the official Cinque Terre trail status website before planning.
Swimming: Bring a swimsuit, even in cooler months—you might find yourself diving into a dream.
/58 CANADA
Osoyoos, British Columbia, may not be the first place that leaps to the mind for planning a golfing getaway. But believe me—once you’ve been there, you’ll ask yourself why every golfer isn’t flocking to this desert gem of the South Okanagan. There is championship golf, world-class vineyards, exceptional cuisine, and a dry, sunny climate that almost entreats you to enjoy the outdoors for the day.
GOLF GETAWAY TO OSOYOOS, BRITISH COLUMBIA
BY STEVE DRAKE
WHERE TO STAY
I began the trip by staying at the Watermark Beach Resort, which set the stage for the entire week away. Situated on the shore of Osoyoos Lake, the resort has stunning scenery and an unbeatable location— basically right on the beach, and a short stroll to shops, cafes, and tasting rooms.
The amenities exceeded even my high expectations going in. I slept in a two-bedroom suite that was like having a private condo, not a hotel room. There was a full kitchen, a comfy living space, and a private balcony where I took my morning coffee gazing over the water. If you’re coming with a group, they have two- and three-bedroom suites, roomy townhomes, plus a beautiful penthouse, ideal for a special stay. It’s the sort of property where you can spread out, relax, and feel at home.
And then there is the 15 Park Bistro, the signature restaurant at the resort. I wound up going there twice because the cuisine was that exceptional. Chicken Tikka Masala was sumptuous, flavorful, and just the thing to soothe me on a long day on the course. Beef Striploin— cooked to perfection but served with local vegetables—was one of the meals I enjoyed most the entire trip.
What truly made the dining experience stand out was the respect for the local produce and the high level of attention to detail. The menu was carefully selected to promote the produce of the region, and each dish tasted like a celebration of the South Okanagan gastronomic identity.
Their list of wines was a journey within itself, featuring a truly impressive array of local bottles,
ranging from intense reds to crisp whites, many of which cannot otherwise be found outside of the region. I requested the server to recommend something, and I found a new favorite Syrah from a local vineyard.
The drinks were equally unforgettable. Made with fresh herbs, house-made syrups, some of them infused with local spirits, they were works of art. I had the Maple Old-Fashioned and a Klippers Mojito—both of them expertly blended and just perfect for relaxing after a day of sunshine. The bartenders knew their trade well and enjoyed talking about ingredients or crafting special recommendations. It wasn’t just dinner; it was an experience that pulled the region’s cuisine and attitude together in a unique way.
WHERE TO PLAY
NK’MIP CANYON DESERT GOLF COURSE
A short drive to the north in Oliver, this course provided a challenging but honest test of golf. Owned and operated by the Osoyoos Indian Band, the course snakes through desert landscape, the vistas of which include the surrounding cliffs and the vineyards – truly spectacular. The routing blends elevation changes with strategic bunkering and water hazards— tough, but very rewarding.
SONORA DUNES GOLF COURSE
This 9-hole course was a surprise gem. It is short, yes, but immaculately kept and designed with lots of charm. The best news? It shares the property with Nk’Mip Cellars, so after I finished playing, I strolled over and indulged in a wine tasting. A fine way to pass the day.
OSOYOOS GOLF CLUB
DESERT GOLD COURSE
This was perhaps the best round for me. The course is cut into the hillside just above town, with wide-open panoramas of the lake and surrounding desert below. It is a desert-style course with rolling fairways and very fast greens that kept me on their toes. Take a camera along—this course is almost as beautiful to look at as to play.
OSOYOOS IS A GOLFER’S HEAVEN,
AND I
TOOK THE TIME TO PLAY SOME OF THE AREA’S FAVORITE COURSES.
OSOYOOS GOLF CLUB
PARK MEADOWS COURSE
A welcome respite from two tough rounds, Park Meadows is more laid back, forgiving, walkable, and has a traditional parkland atmosphere. Ideal for a recreational round or for less seasoned players in the party.
POST-GOLF WINE TASTING
Following golf, the next logical step was wine. The area surrounding Osoyoos and Oliver is punctuated with breathtaking vineyards, so I made a point of visiting a few standouts.
NK’MIP CELLARS
This winery is a must-visit, especially if you’re playing at Sonora Dunes. After finishing my round, I walked over and was immediately impressed by the architecture of the tasting room—modern, sleek, and surrounded by desert landscapes. Inside, the staff was warm and welcoming, guiding me through a curated tasting that included several standouts, particularly their Pinot Noir and the Reserve Merlot, which was velvety and full-bodied.
The highlight, though, was the patio restaurant. Set high above the lake, it offered stunning panoramic views of the water and the valley beyond. I had lunch there under a shaded pergola, enjoying a locally-sourced charcuterie board and a lamb burger that was tender and packed with flavor. The Reserve Merlot elevated the meal, rounding out the experience in the most satisfying way. It’s a spot that captures the essence of Osoyoos—natural beauty, rich culture, and world-class wine.
HESTER CREEK ESTATE WINERY
I drove a little north to Oliver to visit Hester Creek, and I’m so glad I did. Nestled in the Golden Mile Bench, the winery is surrounded by sun-soaked vineyards and framed by dramatic mountain backdrops. The tasting room is elegant yet unpretentious, and the staff was knowledgeable and engaging, sharing insights into their sustainable farming practices and the character of each vintage. The Viognier was floral and crisp, and their late-harvest wines were particularly memorable.
But what made the visit truly exceptional was Terrafina Restaurant, tucked into the heart of the estate. The space was charming and rustic, with a patio draped in grapevines and soft ambient lighting. I ordered the house-made pappardelle, tossed in a vibrant tomato and basil sauce and topped with aged Parmesan. It was cooked to perfection—al dente with just the right bite—and paired beautifully with their Cabernet Franc, which added depth and complexity to every mouthful. I lingered long after the meal, savoring a second glass and taking in the views. It’s the kind of place where time slows down, and every sense is fully engaged.
A DAY OFF FROM GOLF
One day, I decided to swap clubs for a road trip to the Similkameen Valley, a lesser-known, more rugged wine region that has a really cool atmosphere.
CORCELETTES ESTATE WINERY
Tucked against rocky cliffs, Corcelettes is a hidden gem that immediately drew me in with its dramatic setting and warm, laid-back vibe. The winery itself is small, which made for a more intimate and unhurried tasting. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable, taking the time to walk me through their winemaking philosophy and how the unique Similkameen terroir influences their grapes.
I tried several of their small-lot offerings, but the Syrah stood out with its smooth texture, deep fruit notes, and subtle smoky finish. It was the kind of wine you could picture enjoying by a fire pit on a cool evening. I didn’t hesitate to buy a bottle to bring home—one of those wines you know you’ll save for a special occasion.
VANESSA VINEYARD
This visit turned out to be one of the most memorable stops of my trip, not just because of the exceptional wines, but because of the unforgettable hospitality. The drive up to the vineyard was scenic and peaceful, and the winery’s location on a high benchland provided stunning views over the valley.
Inside, I had the incredible fortune of meeting Howard Soon, a living legend in the Canadian wine scene. He greeted guests with humility and enthusiasm, sharing stories from his more than four decades in the industry. Listening to him was like taking a masterclass in winemaking history— he even brought out his Order of Canada medal, a tangible reminder of his contributions to the craft.
As for the wines, they were rich and expressive. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah were both impeccably structured, full of bold flavor, and clearly crafted with care and precision. Vanessa Vineyard is the kind of place where the people and the product are equally unforgettable.
ROW FOURTEEN RESTAURANT
Lunchtime found me at this farm-to-table eatery on the farm at Klippers Organics. Each dish was carefully crafted and full of fresh, seasonal taste. This is the sort of restaurant where you can feel good about the food you’re eating and depart inspired.
So, why should you consider Osoyoos for your next golf escape? For me, it was the perfect blend of sunshine, scenery, and standout experiences. The town holds the title of being the sunshine capital of Canada, which means you’re practically guaranteed beautiful weather for your time outdoors. It’s also home to the country’s only true desert—a striking and rare landscape that sets the tone for the entire trip.
Then there’s Osoyoos Lake, the warmest freshwater lake in Canada. After a hot round of golf, there’s nothing better than diving into its refreshing waters. And for wine lovers, the surrounding area is a paradise. Osoyoos and nearby Oliver boast more than 50 wineries, many of them family-run, offering some of the best tasting experiences I’ve had anywhere.
By the end of the trip, I felt like I’d uncovered one of Canada’s best-kept secrets. Whether you’re chasing birdies or sipping Bordeaux-style blends, Osoyoos delivers a golf getaway that’s hard to beat. Just don’t forget to bring an extra bag for all the wine you’ll want to take home.
PACKING TIPS
Packing for a family trip can be chaotic. With multiple people, different needs, and limited suitcase space, it’s easy to overdo it, or forget the essentials. Here are 10 smart, realistic tips to make summer vacation packing smoother and less stressful for everyone.
BY STEVE DRAKE
1. START WITH A MASTER LIST
Don’t wing it. Create one comprehensive checklist for the whole family. Break it down by person, category (clothing, toiletries, tech, etc.), and even by day or activity if your trip has variety. A good list reduces last-minute scrambling and helps prevent that “I know I’m forgetting something” feeling.
2. PACK BY OUTFIT, NOT BY ITEM
Instead of packing 10 random shirts and hoping for the best, plan complete outfits for each day. It makes mornings easier (especially with kids), keeps luggage lighter, and helps avoid bringing clothes you’ll never wear. Include a couple of mix-and-match extras if plans change or weather surprises you.
3. USE PACKING CUBES
Packing cubes let you organize efficiently and access what you need without destroying your suitcase. You can color-code by family member or cube by category (sleepwear, swim gear, etc.). When you get to your destination, move the cubes into drawers—done.
4. LIMIT SHOES
Shoes are bulky and heavy. Give each family member a two-pair limit: one casual and comfortable (sneakers or walking sandals), and one for water (flip-flops or slides). If you need dressier shoes, one pair per family is usually enough. Pro tip: wear the bulkiest pair during travel to save space.
5. ROLL, DON’T FOLD
Rolling clothes saves room and reduces wrinkles. It also makes it easier to see what you packed. Teach kids how to roll their clothes—it keeps them involved and builds independence for future trips.
6. PACK A MINI LAUNDRY KIT
Bringing travel-size detergent, a few dryer sheets, and a small laundry bag (mesh or foldable) is a game-changer. Doing laundry halfway through means you pack less overall. If you’re staying somewhere with a washer/dryer or near a laundromat, take advantage.
PACKING SMART
7. BRING A “GO BAG”
Pack one easy-access bag with everything you’ll need during transit: snacks, wipes, tissues, water bottles, power banks, chargers, entertainment, and any comfort items for kids. It saves you from digging through the main suitcase mid-journey.
8. PRE-PACK A FIRST-AID KIT
Vacations aren’t enjoyable when a party member is injured or ill and you’re racing around looking for supplies. Pack a simple kit with band-aids, antiseptic wipes, fever reliever, allergy medication, bug spray, sunscreen, motion sickness tablets, and any prescription medications. Adapt it according to your family’s personal needs.
9. DON’T FORGET ENTERTAINMENT
Whether you’re flying, driving, or waiting in line at a theme park, keeping everyone entertained matters. Download shows, audiobooks, or podcasts in advance. Bring books, games, coloring supplies, or headphones for each kid. Bonus: preloading movies means fewer data charges on the go.
10. LEAVE SOME SPACE
You’ll likely return with souvenirs, extra snacks, or dirty clothes. Leave some room in your luggage—or pack an empty foldable duffel. That way, you’re not cramming everything back in or paying for an extra checked bag on the way home.
Scotland
Winding through rugged highlands, ancient castles, and windswept coastlines, the NC500 isn’t just a road trip—it’s Scotland at full throttle. This legendary 516-mile route loops around the northern tip of the country, offering wild beauty and raw adventure at every turn. Whether you’re chasing solitude, or jaw-dropping views, the NC500 delivers.
