Nancie Hall
Journey through Portugal’s rich tapestry of history and culture, from the charming medieval town of Óbidos with its literary infusions and chocolate delights to Coimbra’s prestigious university steeped in ancient lore. Discover Portugal’s passionate embrace of tradition and modernity.
Philip Scott
Philip Scott’s photo essay captures the vibrant essence of Vietnam, from bustling street markets in Hanoi to the serene Ha Long Bay. Through his lens, Scott seeks out authentic moments, portraying everyday life, natural beauty, and the dynamic culture of Vietnam.
Brooks
Delve into Portugal’s culinary heritage through its agritourism, from handharvested salt and artisanal cheeses to traditional sweets, highlights include the deep connection between local flavors and historical practices.
Andrew Marshall
Join Andrew as he explores the Solomon Islands’ pristine beauty and enduring traditions across its 992 islands. He highlights the cultural practices like shark calling and sacred skull shrines in a timeless setting.
Matthew Schueller
A mesmerizing journey from Belize to Guatemala, culminating in a visit to Tikal, where the awe-inspiring Maya ruins surpass expectations. It explores Tikal’s rich wildlife, imposing temples, and the deep cultural impact of the site.
Allison Foat
Discover the enchanting wilderness of the Makgadikgadi salt pans, detailing the transformative experience at Jack’s Camp. Learn about the camp’s luxurious facilities, expert guiding, and the profound natural beauty of this remote landscape.
Robyn Phillips
The Carnivals of Quintana Roo, a vibrant celebration along the Caribbean coastline that melds tradition, music, and color, reflecting the rich cultural heritage and dynamic spirit of the region.
Sylvia Tennant
The Konavle Valley, just south of Dubrovnik, known as “The Provence of the Dubrovnik region.” Home to unique cultural activities, historical sites, amazing cuisine, and authentic wine tasting experiences.
Andrew Marshall
Roti Island’s lontar palm, revered as the ‘tree of life.’ Dive deep into local customs, from traditional climbing and tapping practices to the palm’s use in daily life and cultural symbols.
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Mention Portugal and there are squeals of delight over the beautiful beaches, warm hospitality, and wonderful wines. Turn back the pages of time and the stories are of castles and kings, daring sea faring, and a rich cultural history. On this trip, the country woos and romances with the love of books and the written word.
Crowning the top of a hilltop, Óbidos is often called the Queen’s Present – a reference to its connection to a royal romance when the town was gifted to Queen Isabel by King Dinis in the 13th century. It continued to be passed down as part of the royals’ dowry which contributed to it being one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the country. Less than an hour’s drive from Lisbon it’s a sweet getaway for lovers of architecture, books and chocolate.
Ginja & Chocolates. Stepping through massive meter-thick walls that are draped in brilliant bougainvillea reveals a picturesque village with sparkling white washed buildings and colorful shutters. Narrow cobblestone streets demand a slow stroll which a perfect way to savor this sweet place.
TURN BACK THE PAGES OF TIME AND THE STORIES ARE OF CASTLES AND KINGS, DARING SEA FARING, AND A RICH CULTURAL HISTORY.
The main street of Rua Direita that leads up to the historic castle is a dawdler’s dream with small storefronts bursting with treasures of pottery, tiles, textiles and bookstores tucked along the way. In addition to being a book lovers delight, Óbidos has hosted international chocolate festivals for close to two decades and is also home to the traditional sour cherry liqueur called Ginja that is produced in the area. The small sour Ginja berries, also known as Morella cherries, are mixed with sugar and spices like cinnamon and cloves to create a luscious ruby liqueur that can pack a punch. Street stalls offer plenty of samples but the ultimate combo is a shot of Ginja served in a chocolate cup.
Continuing along the main street leads to the stunning Church of Santiago. Built in 1186, it was used by the royal family when they were in residence at the castle and with a church door that opened directly into castle, it was an easy commute. The structure was rebuilt in 1722 after a devastating earthquake and was the inspiration behind the town’s concept to repurpose abandoned properties as bookstores. Now it is the largest and prettiest of the 11 booksellers, with volumes that stretch up the walls towards the heavens and surround the ornate alter.
Other buildings, often disguised, have also been put to literary work. The Livraria do Mercao sells local fruit and vegetables along with herbs, chocolates - and books. Old wooden boxes that were used to harvest produce now swing from the ceiling and are stacked with titles. And a few stores down, the bottles have been replaced with books at a former winery.
The Casa de Saramago is a delightful library that pays homage to the country’s favorite literary son, Jose Saramago. Architecturally designed with a sleek and contemporary interior, the three-story building has cozy chairs to curl up in and a stunning roof top terrace with sweeping views of the town and beyond.
Bibliophiles will swoon when they enter the Literary Man Hotel. Formerly a convent, the 30-room hotel is awash with sunny yellow walls, antique ceramic tiles, stone floors – and books from floor to ceiling. Over 45,000 titles line the hallways, climb up the walls and are poised in cozy nooks for readers to tuck in and read. The restaurant serves Portuguese favorites like codfish and shrimp, while the lounge has its own brand of ginja that makes an ideal souvenir to sip - over a book, of course!
In 2015, UNESCO honored Óbidos with the title of a Creative City of Literature, joining Dublin, Barcelona and 40 other cities around the world who have been similarly recognized. The same year, the town hosted its first FOLIO International Literary Festival which has become the most important literary festival in Portugal with lectures, workshops and entertainment.
Want to experience the real Portugal? Head for Coimbra. Formerly the capital of Portugal, it was home to the royals and oozes culture, history and art. This is where you can sit on a sunny terrace with a gelato and eavesdrop on old men who gather for coffee and conversation, listen to impromptu music performances, and browse pastry shops with a festival of sweets behind glistening glass. Flowers cascade from apartment window boxes, women lean out of high story windows and call out to friends, and tiny storefronts entice with an array of perfumeries, exquisite shoe stores and markets bursting with cheese and meats perfect for a picnic.
The intimate city is highly walkable, and a wander along the narrow cobblestone streets reveals architectural beauties that timetravel you from the 13th century to present day. The Mondego River - the longest river in Portugal, runs 145 miles through the country to the Atlantic Ocean and slices through the city, leaving lush riverside parks filled with strolling lovers and families.
Higher Education. If you only have time to see one thing in Coimbra, head to the university. Along leafylined boulevards, past multi-colored houses stacked on top of each other without an inch between. Founded in 1290 it commands center stage
high on a hilltop and became the center for education, attracting scholars from around the Old World. Today it is considered to be one of the most prestigious in Europe and is one of only five universities designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The Harry Potter Connection. J.K. Rowling, author of the Harry Potter books, lived in Portugal for a few years and is said to have used the university for her inspiration. The similarities are striking. The long black clocks worn by the students (and Hogwarts), were introduced centuries ago to eliminate any class distinction although they are no longer mandatory. And the Hogwarts Library bears a close resemblance to the Biblioteca Joanina.
The jewel in the crown of the university is the Biblioteca Joanina or Joanina Library, named in honor of King John V who authorized the building’s construction. Completed in 1728, the opulent baroque design dazzles with silk Chinoiserie, gold
filigree, gilded archways, massive frescoes that caress walls and soaring ceilings, ornate carvings and 60,000 books, some that date back to the 16th century.
The building is an architectural marvel with exterior walls over six feet thick and double wall that effectively forms a vault to maintain a constant temperature and keeps moisture at bay. The space between the walls creates reading rooms, ladders are invisibly tucked within the design to reach the sky-high books, and the oak bookshelves were selected for their density and ability to repel insects.
For over 250 years at the end of each day the library rolls out leather mats to cover the tables in preparation of the arrival of the colony of bats who forage at night on the bugs that are the books’ foe.
Until 1834, the university was self governing and the on-site prison, located deep under the foundations of the library, protected faculty and students from any contact with common criminals. Head down to see the winding staircase and hobbit-like cells that are the oldest in the country and date back to medieval times.
Other musts include the 18th century Botanical Garden which is considered to be one of the great gardens of the world and dates back to 1772. Filled with fountains, sculptures, an antique greenhouse and even an old chapel in the woods, it’s easy to spend hours exploring. And the Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro is a beauty. Housed in the former Bishop’s Palace, it includes the cloister from the 12th century church, early alters, a stunning art collection, Gothic sculptures, ornately crafted furniture, and silver. But the highlight could very well be what lies below the museum - an enormous two-story series of tunnels, passageways and stalls that were discovered during excavations and are remnants of an ancient Roman forum.
Lisbon has a certain air of romance about it with the salt air, sunshine and charming architecture. Here are a few of the favorite haunts of Fernando Pessoa, one of the great poets of the 20th century poets who lived in Lisbon for most of his life.
A couple of steps inside Martinho da Arada, Lisbon’s oldest restaurant, reveals a table displaying a reservation under the Fernando Pessoa. Sadly, he died in 1935 at the age of 47, but was a regular at the café that has been a fixture for artists and intellectuals for over 200 years. This is said to have been Pessoa’s favorite café and he would often stay after it closed to write. The restaurant drips of history and old-world charm with marble floors, white linen tablecloths, banquettes tucked in the alcoves and snappy waiters in crisp white shirts and black vests. If only the walls could talk.
This is not your usual museum so it’s not a surprise that it was honored with the country’s top museum award in 2021. For the last 15 years of his life, Pessoa lived here and the exhibit brings him to life with interactive and evocative insights into his work. At every turn there is something to see or do or listen to. His room has been recreated and is filled with personal items and sketches, including some of the over60 identities or heteronyms that he created with excruciatingly elaborate details. The fictitious personalities were carefully crafted with physical appearances, dispositions, intricate astrology charts, biographies, clothing preferences and even different handwriting.
A browse around the elegant and historic Chiado neighborhood will lead you to what is considered to be the world’s oldest bookshop, Livraria Bertrand. Operating since 1732, it offers a variety of books in various languages and is a perfect place to pick up a novel by Fernando Pessoa or Pulitzer Prize winner Jose Saramago. A short distance away, the Lx Factory complex has been repurposed with eclectic shops, cafes and artisan workshops. The colorful Ler Devagare is part bookstore and part art gallery in a former printing factory with a relaxed vibe, cute café and vinyl records to listen to.
• Portugal is the oldest country in Europe.
• The Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan was the first to circumnavigate the world.
• Portugal is home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is one of the top 20most visited countries in the world.
• Portugal is part of the European Union but the Madeira islands are in the African continent and the Azores are in the American continent.
• The country is rectangular and from north-south the distance is 349 miles (561 km) and 135 miles (218 k,) wide from east to west.
Portugal is known for more than its rocky coastline, impressive handpainted tiles, and poignant fado music. The alluring flavors of Portugal along with their culinary heritage within a framework of agritourism satisfy our senses.
Salt, a well-loved commodity around the world is said to be the difference between eating in Technicolor as opposed to black and white. Salt has been revered throughout history: Gandhi led peaceful protests against the British salt monopoly, the Chinese boiled seawater in the 19th century BC to extract this precious product, and Roman soldiers were paid their wages in salt (giving birth to the word “salary”). In ancient Greece, (where this valuable commodity was guarded by the politicians), Plutarch
considered it, “the noblest of foods.” Some even called upon salt as a weapon, throwing it into the eyes of their enemies. In sub-Saharan Africa, salt, transported by camels, was considered more valuable than gold throughout the Mandinka Empire.
Louisa May Alcott wrote about its value: “Salt is like good-humor, and nearly every thing is better for a pinch of it.” But it is in southern Portugal that I gain a new appreciation for this treasured marine commodity when introduced to a wide array of salts by Jorge Raiado, owner of the Salmarim Salt Company. Located near the salt marshes of the Castro Marim Nature Reserve, salt is collected by hand in traditional saltpans. Raiado explains only a small amount is needed to bring out the taste and aroma of food.
Salts range from traditional coarse flakes to more experimental blends mixed with red pepper, oregano, lemon, or apricots. Some are drawn to artisanal salt in a smoked infusion; others opt for the gourmet, handharvested, “salt flower”(flor de sal). This refers to the fine crystals, which are known for their mineral content, and skimmed off the top of the water in the salt beds for a premium product, considered the “caviar of salt,” since it intensifies flavors. The particularly white hue is due to the hot, dry climate while the packaging is captivating both in small, colorful boxes of mini test tubes and traditional cork jars, keeping the humidity to a minimum.
“RATHER THAN GIVING AN INJECTION TO MILK THE SHEEP, I PREFER TO PLAY CLASSICAL MUSIC TO RELAX THEM BEFORE HAND-MILKING.”
A variety of artisanal sheep and goat cheeses from mild to pungent are produced throughout Portugal along with high-quality regional wines. A charismatic Dom and his uncle, the refined Duke of Palmelo, greet me in the Portuguese countryside to view their state-of the-art artisanal cheese-making facility, Casa de Calhariz on their family estate. While gentleman farmer Dom Pedro is more interested in speaking about scuba diving off the pristine Portuguese islands in the Azores, he does tour me around the cheese operation after I cover my shoes with baby blue paper booties (similar to ones I wore in an Asian museum to preserve its floors).
I am visiting an area of Portugal (the most western point on the European continent) known for its flavorful cheese made from raw sheep milk, salt, and a thistle (cynara cardunculus), which separates the curd from the whey. The microclimate from the Arrabida Mountains and the grass that grows in this region of the Costa Azul, where shades of blues and greens dominate the landscape, contribute to the distinctive Azeitao sheep cheese. It’s a creamy, semi-soft cheese with a pale yellow rind.
Nearby in a lush area of the foothills of the Arrabida mountain range, I discover sheep eat the fruit of cork trees, making their milk more fatty, which means producing more cheese. At the small, rural Cheese Museum in a former horse stable dating from 1643, you can watch the traditional cheese-making process with the aid of a large pottery urn, a long wooden spoon, and a roaring fire. Some view a demo; others participate in handcrafting the cheese. Farmer Ricardo Couto explains: ”Rather than giving an injection to milk the sheep, I prefer to play classical music to relax them before hand-milking.“
Cheese is associated with regions of Portugal and considered part of the cultural heritage with D.O.P. designations for the traditionally produced sheep cheese like those from the historic area of Serpa. Others, such as the famous and oldest cheese of Serra da Estrela from the north or the milder buttery Queijo de Azeitao produced south of Lisbon, require different methods for tasting. These delicious cheeses are eaten by cutting off the top of the round cheese wheel to spoon out the soft inside.
Other cheeses are cut more conventionally and the light rind is often consumed. There are ultrawhite fresh cheeses, made from cow and goat milk with a softer consistency, a bit crumbly when cut from the small wheel without any rind. The consistency of each cheese relates to how old it is. I learn the same semi-soft cheeses become drier and denser as they age, noting my preference for the fresher ones found at local grocery stores as well as fine dining establishments. Some restaurants serve Azeitao cheese in shot glasses with a breadstick to scoop it out. This cheese is often accompanied by local honey.
Beekeeping and honey production on the Iberian Peninsula is documented in cave paintings dating from 7000 BC. And honey has been used for everything from healing wounds, as an ingredient in fermented alcoholic beverages (mead), and embalming fluid to serving as a form of currency. Others preferred eating it! Think of Winnie the Pooh and Ben Franklin, who penned: ”If you have no honey in your pot, have some in your mouth.”
Connected with magic, mythology, and healing, bees and their amberhued honey have captured the attention of everyone from Greek philosophers to British playwright Shakespeare and American novelist Truman Capote.
Enthusiastic guide Diana Nunes of Portugal4U specializes in authentic local experiences with cooking workshops, craft projects, and traditional tours such as an exploration of a chestnut route. She arranges my visit with a wellseasoned honey producer in the Algarve.
A meeting with scientifically minded Jose Manuel Marreiros Chumbinho is a real treat. In an age when bees are having worldwide problems, it is encouraging to find a successful beekeeper sensitive to environmental issues. He carefully places his beehives in pesticidefree areas, where bees remain productive, unharmed by pollutants.
This retired veterinarian not only makes honey and related products, but he presents them with a missionary zeal, asking people to taste each of his different varieties in a prescribed order with specialty flavors such as carob, pennyroyal, and a bitter evergreen plant. His small but impressive operation includes creating his own honeycomb wax foundations for the bees to build upon, as well as beeswax candles. It is fun to meet up with him again at the large, lively Loule farmers’ market, where his wares are appreciated both by locals and travelers from afar.
Honey has a shelf life that does not expire.
Making honey is not a breeze for the bees. These essential pollinators visit more than 2-million flowers to make one pound of honey!
Honeybees communicate with each other through a “wiggle dance” language imparting geographic knowledge.
Sweets take other forms in Portugal, with the mouthwatering pastel de nata, a custard tart, which may be Portugal’s best-loved pastry with Sintra’s pillow-shaped travesseiros a close second. Other sweets may feature the “three delights” in combinations of compressed figs, crushed almonds, and carob, at times blended and shaped into flowers and hearts called queijo de figo.
Figs, known as “the people’s fruit,” have 52 species in the Algarve. Tasty jams are made from them at the Companhia das Culturas, an inn owned by a savvy anthropologist and artist, Tina Monteiro. She considers crops as cultures and creates appealing, minimalist installations from hanging seeds, pods, and peppers, which are strung together in this agritourism site, growing and serving fresh fruits such as flavorful pomegranates.
Carob pods are more than ingredients for a delicious rice and mushroom dish cooked by their creative young chef, Pedro, who speaks about its desirable taste being a combination or middle flavor between chocolate and roasted coffee, used in both sweet and savory cuisine. “There is mild weather here and there is a consciousness of nature connected to the culture of man. Our concept is a celebration of the land and the eco-system,” says Tina, in a country where folktales are passed along orally with agricultural practices and ancestral knowledge.
One such tale speaks of almonds, a traditional crop eaten raw, roasted, in cakes, marzipan, and almond pastries of all varieties. The legend of the almond trees with their lovely white blossoms is found throughout Portugal. It tells of an Arab prince who attempts to please his bride (from northern Europe) who misses snow. The prince plants groves of almond trees to create orchards filled with white blossoms, reminiscent of snow. Today almonds are incorporated into annual cycles of celebration and festivities in confections for Easter (folares, a special bread with boiled eggs embedded in it, representing rebirth). Almonds are also part of the “three delights” at farmers’ markets.
For those interested in more experiences capturing the tastes of Portugal, you can wander through orchards at rural hotels such as Horta da Mouro, visit an olive oil museum, or curl up by a crackling fire with the appealing and wellresearched book, Mediterranean Algarve: Tradition, Produce, and Cuisine by Maria Manuel Valago. Returning home with memories of salty and sweet tastes may also be accompanied by a stash of cork canisters filled with gourmet salt. After all, Pythagoras reminds us, “Salt is born of the purest of parents: the sun and the sea.”
I was captivated by the verdant green, tiered paddy fields. An image I saw online not dissimilar to this sparked my desire to visit Vietnam in the first place.
VIETNAM WAS THE FIRST COUNTRY WHERE I DISCOVERED MY LOVE OF TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY. SINCE THIS TRIP I HAVE CAPTURED PICTURES IN MANY COUNTRIES, SEEKING OUT AUTHENTIC MOMENTS WHEREVER I VISIT.
WEBSITE: PHILIPSCOTTPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK INSTAGRAM: @PHILIPSCOTTPHOTOGRAPHY
Whilst on our cruise in Ha Long Bay we were kept fully stocked up with drinks and snacks by the floating vendors making regular visits.
Workers harvesting vegetables in the fields in small villages during our motorbike ride through the Hagiang Loop.
Grandpa watches over his granddaughter whilst weaving enormous baskets.
Serious sized bundles of produce being transported uphill
Punters guided groups in bamboo boats to the secret caves in Ha Long Bay.
was refreshing to
It see fruit and veg stalls in Hanoi with loose produce, vibrant in color, spilling out into the streets.
These three little boys in Hagiang were very chuffed with their poultry pals and were keen to have their photo taken with their pets.
Children are present at all times, constantly with their parents whilst they try to achieve daily tasks such as feeding animals and harvesting crops.
A local worker in Ho Chi Minh stops for a well earned break on what looks like not a particularly comfy seat.
From coral atolls encircling beautiful lagoons, to mountainous landmasses of pristine rainforest, the 992 islands of the Solomons offer a rare chance to get offthe-beaten path and uncover a pristine archipelago in its raw and natural state.
Although known by keen divers for its abundance of wreck sites, these islands offer so much more. You can visit intact cultures, observe the abundant birdlife, and practice “pidgin” English with smiling locals. These are islands adrift in time, where villagers still cling to lifestyles that have barely changed for centuries and traditional practices such as shark calling, the making of shell money, and sacred skull shrines from the days of headhunting can still be seen today. This is travel straight from the pages of National Geographic magazine.
Honiara, on the island of Guadalcanal is the hub and gateway to the Solomons and provides an excellent base for further exploration. I check in at the Heritage Park Hotel Honiara, and while chatting
one evening to other travelers, I hear of an interesting day trip to the nearby island of Savo, situated across the oily smooth waters of Iron Bottom Sound, a 16 km channel filled with the sunken wrecks of dozens of WWII ships.
The following day, I agree on a set price for the day trip with Sam the boatman, which would include a circular route around the island with stops. Then we are off, speeding towards the infamous laying fields of the megapodes. The megapode bird, about the size of a chicken, ingeniously makes use of Savo’s thermal volcanic sands to incubate its eggs. Everyday hundreds of megapodes lay their eggs, and every day the villagers dig them up, thank God for the free bounty and carry them off to nearby volcanic hot springs to cook them.
On this particular morning the ‘laying fields’ of Agatopa village are literally bristling with the posteriors of villagers, who, with heads deep in the sand, are digging up the morning’s harvest of eggs.
The Solomon Islands are rich with natural beauty, WWII history, superb dive sites and intact cultural traditions.
Much of Savo is a mass of volcanic mountains and the climb to the single crater on the top of the range provides a temptation hard to resist. Weary and bedraggled, I board the boat back to Honiara, and stagger into the local Yacht Club in the quest for an icy cold beer.
From Honiara I catch a light plane (60-minute flight) to Seghe to access one of the Solomon’s main attractions - the spectacular Marovo Lagoon. Containing around 400 islands, the Marovo Lagoon is the largest saltwater lagoon in the world encompassing 700 square km and is protected by a double barrier reef system. During the 90s, several eco-lodges were established across the length of the lagoon to promote eco-tourism and to help prevent devastation by logging.
Today it is possible to island hop from one lodge to the next using motorized dugout canoes. Lodge hosts are keen to share their traditional village life, ancient taboo sites, WWII wrecks, deserted beaches and fabulous coral gardens. Many of the eco-lodges are built in traditional style using local materials and situated next to palm-fringed white sandy beaches. Fabulous snorkelling and diving can be right on your doorstep with soft and hard corals, giant clams and a zillion colorful fish.
From Seghe, a 18km journey across the lagoon by motorized canoe and I arrive at my tropical home for a few days – the Uepi Island Resort situated on remote Uepi Island. Uepi is a classic raised barrier reef island, covered in impressive rainforest, outlined by fringing reef and sandy beach; flanked by the warm lagoon waters on one side, and the oceanic depths (2000m) of “The Slot”, a deep marine abyss, on the other. Uepi Island is approximately 2.5 km long and 300 meters wide, mostly covered with tropical rainforest interspersed with walking tracks.
The Uepi Island Resort offers a range of comfortable garden and beach front bungalow accommodation generously spaced amongst colorful tropical gardens. Delicious meals based around fresh local seafood and organically grown fruits and vegetables are prepared by talented chefs. In addition to the fabulous snorkelling and diving (you can learn to dive here), a range of other activities are available including kayaking excursions, jungle trips, fishing trips and the coconut crab walk.
From my beach front bungalow at dusk, I observe fishermen still trolling lines from their slender canoes between the dozens of islands that sprawl out to the horizon. Scenes such as this must have inspired
novelist James Michener in his Pulitzer Prize winning book Tales from the South Pacific to describe the Marovo Lagoon, as ‘the eighth wonder of the world’. The Uepi Island Resort is the most luxurious of Marovo’s eco-lodges, but another one to consider is the Matikuri Eco Lodge on the western arc of the lagoon.
From the Marovo Lagoon, I return to Honiara and take a short flight to Malaita, to visit the ‘wane i asi’ or ‘salt-water people.’ As if 992 islands weren’t enough in the Solomon Islands, villagers are still creating more in the Lau Lagoon (off the island’s north-east coast), where islanders cling to age-old traditions.
Originally forced into the shallow waters of the lagoon by fierce headhunting warfare, the salt-water people have built more than one hundred islands scattered along the 32 km length of the lagoon. Nobody
knows exactly when the first artificial island was formed, but legend has it, that a bushman fishing in the lagoon built a cairn of rocks on which to place his lunch, and from these humble beginnings sprung the island world of the salt-water people.
It’s a typically clear morning on the Lau Lagoon, as a cool offshore breeze ripples the turquoise waters fanning wavelets towards the outer reef. 40-year-old Stephen Yeo sits on the front step of his simple thatched kitchen hut and rolls some dark tobacco in a page torn from an exercise book. “I first learned to build islands from my father,” he says, raising a smoldering twig from a nearby fire to light his cigarette. In a puff of smoke, he nods towards the tools of his trade; a dugout canoe, a long metal bar, a diving mask and plenty of muscle.
Not surprisingly, life on an artificial island is cramped affair given that
every square meter is gained with back breaking work. Leaf houses built almost entirely out of the coconut palm stand side-by-side almost one on top of the next. There seems little room for privacy, but then on an island this size everyone is related, and everyone is someone’s cousin or brother’s brother.
With an islander’s agility Stephen boards his dugout directly from his house and waves goodbye to his wife Mary. He is looking for large foundation stones for the new island’s outer walls, and the floor of the shallow lagoon is paved with the perfect material; dense coral rock that has lain there for centuries.
Island building is often a community event, involving the wisdom and supervision of the elders, the bulk labor efforts of the women and the muscle of the young men. But if a villager needs an island building and has the means, he can employ the
services of men like Stephen to do the hard work for him. Payment can be made in many forms of currency, from live pigs, dolphin’s teeth and shell money to the preferred Solomon dollar.
Standing shoulder deep in water, Stephen peers down through his mask at a suitable slab of coral. With explosive downward thrusts he crashes the sharp point of his iron bar into the rock to prise it into blocks. Then, with the strength of a weightlifter he wrestles a 30-chunk of coral to the surface and hauls it into his waiting canoe. Within half an hour he has a full load.
At this stage, the new island is little more than a pile of rocks on the floor of the lagoon. To this Stephen adds his latest load, being careful to place each stone in its correct position. As the wall breaks the surface, a new island is born. The corners of an island are always built first, followed
THE MAROVO LAGOON IS THE LARGEST SALTWATER LAGOON IN THE WORLD ENCOMPASSING 700 SQ KM AND IS PROTECTED BY A DOUBLE BARRIER REEF SYSTEM.
by the walls, wide at the base and rising over two meters to clear the highest spring tides. Rocks are then tossed into the center and brittle branch coral will be crushed to fill in the gaps. It is long back breaking work. There is no machinery used, and the artificial islands have only ever been built by human toil.
Although the salt-water people create their own lands, they also own lands on the mainland for gardening. Stephen’s wife Mary spends her day working in the family gardens, and the demands of a growing population means she has to trek one hour into the hills to reach her plots. In the meager soils wrested from the grips of the rainforest, she grows taro, sweet potatoes, yams and cassava. Fish caught in the lagoon supplements the diet and any surplus is sold and traded at the local bush markets.
The bush markets have long maintained an important link between the salt-water people and the ‘bush people’ who populate the hills of Malaita. Every week on market day the islanders come ashore and climb the hills to trade produce with the bush people. In the old times the traditional currency of ‘shell money’ would have changed hands. These days, shell money is largely reserved for paying ‘bride price’, for the purchase of land or island building
labor, or to smooth the way when an insult has been inadvertently given or a taboo transgressed.
Most artificial islands are built no more than a few hundred meters from the mainland and are free of malarial mosquitoes that plague the coast. In this space between the saltwater people’s water world and the humid confines of the coast, there’s always a constant stream of traffic. Schoolgirls wade through the high tide; books held high above their heads, a boy heads off in his dugout to collect firewood on the mainland and islanders return from their gardens laden with taro and cassava.
Darkness begins to fall on the artificial islands, and under the warm glow of kerosene lanterns and firelight, villagers relax on their verandas chewing betel nut and smoking tobacco. As the moon casts a trail of silvery light, the dozens of artificial islands that sprawl out to the horizon appear suspended, like stepping-stones across the heavens. It’s the end of another perfect day in the Solomon Islands.
I thought the most impressive Maya site was Chichenitza, that is of course, until I stepped foot in front of the ancient wonders of Tikal.
Riding in the back of a small, sunstained bus, smelling of cigarettes and positioned directly under a vent just barely pushing out enough cool air, I let out a sigh as I watched the sun rise over passing fields of corn. It was my first time crossing the border from Belize to Guatemala, and I honestly didn’t know what to expect. Over the last 24 hours resting at a small resort in San Ignacio, I thought about the pending early-morning journey to Tikal. I heard talk about protests that were occurring just 20 minutes away at the border. Protests aren’t
uncommon in the region, but the notion of civil unrest has the power to shut down the border, or at the very least make it unwise to pass through the only highway into Guatemala from Belize.
Sure, you can fly into Flores, Guatemala to get yourself to Tikal, but when already making the trek through Belize, one of the greatest surprises is that the Maya ruins of Guatemala really aren’t that far away! After our tour of Belize’s coastline, and diving to see as much colorful sealife as possible, we made our way into the Belizian jungles and the temptation to see such an architectural and cultural marvel brought us here, 20 minutes from the border.
Guatemala and Belize have a long history of border disputes. By all accounts, the relationship between the two countries is strained. We realized while visiting just how important it is to be aware of the political unrest in the region prior to traveling, to be culturally sensitive, respectful, and understanding of any possible delays. As tourism is one of the main drivers of the economy in the region, both sides wholeheartedly agree that despite the conflict, keeping tourism safe and accessible is a top priority.
I THOUGHT THE MOST IMPRESSIVE MAYA SITE WAS CHICHENITZA, THAT IS OF COURSE, UNTIL I STEPPED FOOT IN FRONT OF THE ANCIENT WONDERS OF TIKAL
Parking just short of the demilitarization-zone, we disembarked our bus and walked between several gates towards the customs office. Lucky for us, getting up early paid off with virtually no line at the border. The entire process to pay our customs fees took only about 15 minutes, and at the end our passports were rewarded with new stamps. Piling into another small bus, we traveled about two hours to the entrance of Tikal. I could feel the thick jungle air and hear the tropical birds chime in as we approached. This by far felt worlds away from coastal Belize.
Setting out by foot down a wide path through giant palms and vine-covered strangler-figs, I only
stopped momentarily to watch a group of spider monkeys swing from tree to tree. I was already amazed by the variety of wildlife in Tikal’s lush rainforest. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to over 100 species of mammals, including over 60 species of bats. From pumas, ocelots, and jaguars, to howler monkeys, toucans and colorful butterflies. Birdwatchers are delighted by the over 330 avian species that inhabit the area.
Then as if out of nowhere, I took a turn through the forest to find the first enormous Maya temple on our path. Towering above the trees and bordered with ornate carvings, I was stunned by how complex and complete the architecture appeared
to be. Due to the Spanish conquests from centuries prior, most Maya sites throughout the Yucatan are discovered as piles of rubble, but some of Tikal’s most prized buildings were miraculously spared by their remoteness deep within the rainforest. As one of the largest and most important Maya cities, Tikal boasts an extensive network of temples, pyramids, palaces, and ceremonial complexes. The site covers over 200 square miles, with only a fraction unearthed and open to the public. It is still very much an active archaeological site, with many working day and night to uncover and preserve the history of the ancient city.
The Great Plaza stands as the heart of Tikal, surrounded by imposing structures like the Temple of the Great Jaguar and the Temple of the Mask. Wiping away a few beads of sweat, I took the opportunity to scale the ancient structures and admire the breathtaking panoramic views of the jungle canopy. Only from the top of the pyramids can you truly appreciate the scale and sophistication of Maya architecture.
Continuing my hike through the rainforest, I gazed in amazement at the hilly jungle. Mound after mound of tree-covered hills surrounded my path. But, much to my surprise, I began to notice the edges of several large square boulders peeking out from the corners of each hill. Afterall, the Nature Reserve is technically composed of incredibly flat terrain. What I thought to be hills in the jungle were not natural elevation changes at all, but unearthed Maya structures hidden by the forest and centuries of erosion. There’s still so many treasures to discover in Tikal, which made my visit all the more mind-boggling as I wandered through the forest.
Arriving at Temple IV, the tallest structure of the ancient city, I climbed to the top to take in the most sought-after view overlooking Temples I, II, and III. A troop of howler monkeys swung from the canopy to a nearby tree below, and
I took a seat to watch as the sun drew closer to the horizon. After my long trek through the reserve and ascending up many temple stairs, I was more excited than ever for some handmade corn tortillas and an ice-cold Pacifico. Enroute back to the park entrance, I stopped at the Jaguar Inn Restaurant for a late lunch, which felt like a huge reward for a day full of exploration.
Visiting Tikal can be a huge undertaking, but I believe it’s well worth the effort to see one of the most underrated and stunning sites
of the world. I learned that the best things to consider when planning a visit is to first book a guided tour to gain a deeper understanding of Tikal’s history. Second, wear comfortable footwear as there tends to be a lot of walking and climbing on uneven terrain. And lastly, plan your visit to coincide with the early morning or late afternoon in order to avoid crowds and the sometimes intense midday heat. A visit to Tikal is a journey through time, and it’s one I’ll surely never forget.
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At first glance, the Makgadikgadi salt pans may appear a little underwhelming, a seemingly lifeless sprawl that stretches before you like a primordial world without end. But once your urban self begins to decompress and your spirit is brought to heel, an illuminating shift takes place and you see it for what it truly is - one of the most beguiling wild places on earth.
It was the late Jack Bousfield, a trailblazing hunter-turnedconservationist who clocked the Makgadikgadi’s raw magnificence and succinctly declared it to be ‘the perfect nothing.’ Its remoteness resonated deeply and swift to identify the destination potential, he began curating expeditions and welcoming the curious to a no-frills situation in the middle of nowhere. The year was 1962 and that unsophisticated set up marked the first iteration of legendary Jack’s Camp. Suffice to say dubious naysayers were silenced, seduced by the divine isolation and an irresistible promise of adventure.
The Jack’s Camp backstory is well documented and not without tragedy, which struck when Jack lost his life in a plane crash, his seventh and the one that proved fatal. His son Ralph, who survived the accident, decided to pursue his father’s dream to create a full service safari camp in the
Makgadikgadi. He picked up the baton and ran with it and in 1992 Jack’s Camp version two was born, settled in the exact same spot on the north side of the Ntwetwe Pan in a one million acre private reserve. It was and still is, a lavish oasis celebrated for its alluring locale, timeless elegance and high caliber guiding. Whatever your raison d’être, Jack’s is a coveted sojourn for nature enthusiasts, eco-conscious travelers and anyone simply seeking immersion in a microcosm of untrammeled Africa.
Three decades and one pandemic later and Ralph felt it was time for a thorough rebuild, and the global travel ban presented an unexpected opportunity to do so. Jack’s reopened in 2021, a plush reimagining with a significantly more sybaritic offering under canvas. At 270 square meters, the tents stand almost triple the size of their forerunners, ensconced between thickets and aerial palms, peaceful and private. Raised high off the ground in a rectangular shape, each suite– there are seven twin and two doubles- comprises three rooms, not unlike a nomadic Bedouin tent arrangement, with the walls and ceiling bedecked and draped in luxuriant textiles. When you first unzip your ‘door’ and step into the coolness, a small hallway greets you, opening into an expansive lounge that in turn leads to the
IT IS ARID AND UNFORGIVING FOR MOST OF THE YEAR BUT ONCE THE SEASONAL RAINS BEGIN TO FALL... THE LAND IS TRANSFORMED
main
bedroom and bathroom. Mesh netting protects the various entrances to deter unwanted crawling visitors, transparent so that you can always have eyes on the view. A wooden deck, complete with daybeds that swing like hammocks and your own plunge pool, runs all the way round culminating in an outdoor shower under the trees. The main bedroom has two four poster double beds hung with crisp, white mosquito nets and with gratifying air cooling systems. In one corner a writing desk invites a bout of journaling while in the other stands a wood-burning fireplace, a wonderful addition guaranteed to ramp up the cozy factor come
the winter months. The bathroom completes the charm, with marble and brass vanities, a pull-chain toilet and a chaise lounge. The most recent sumptuous addition is Jack’s Private Villa that opened in March 2024. Set apart from main camp it is an exclusive- use, multiroom enclave entirely separate and accommodating up to twelve guests, with two swimming pools, a private chef, and expert guides on call.
The décor and design throughout camp is as ravishing as ever, true to the original look and feel. Expect an exotic conflation of North African, Arabian and post-colonial campaign safari influences, with a dash of the eclectic. Think off-kilter lampshades with beaded trim, ostrich feathers spilling out of brass vases and red velvet couches, a sassy boudoir touch, all complemented by a
coalition of colors that range between earthy tones and vibrant brights. The Mess tent creates the atmospheric first impression, where for weary arrivals are welcomed with heartfelt warmth by a top notch team. This reception area drips in vintage accouterments and other assets such as the wellstocked library and a Natural History Museum, a brimming trove of found treasures, artifacts and memorabilia, displayed in glass cabinets. Flanking this area on one side is a billiard room with an honesty bar and reading nooks, and on opposite side is the dining room anchored by a long table for communal meals. The cuisine at Jack’s is superb, with menus devised by an innovative kitchen crew. High tea is served in an enchanting Persian tea tent. A low table forms the centerpiece, laden with cucumber sandwiches,
pastries and cakes, fresh fruit, jugs of homemade lemonade, flasks of coffee and antique silver pots of Earl Grey. A russet mass of kilims and rugs is underfoot while piles of come-hither pillows, ottomans and hand carved African palaver chairs line the perimeter. This is safari decadence at its best and yours to revel in, every day just before afternoon game drive.
Lying southeast of Okavango Delta, the Makgadikgadi which means ‘vast, lifeless land’ in the local Tswana language, is made up of three enormous pans - the Sua, the Ntwetwe and the Nxai- the bleached remnant of an ancient super lake that in its entirety covers an area the size of Switzerland. It is arid and unforgiving for most of the year but once the seasonal rains begin to fall between November and
March, the cracked clay is overtaken by pools and lagoons and the land is transformed. It’s the onset of the season of plenty and the floodplains erupt with life as herds and flocks return in their droves to feast on a buffet of nourishing grasses. Following their annual migration route towards the Boteti River, thousands of zebra and wildebeest descend on the area, pausing for several months to drop and nurture their young before continuing on their way. Opportunistic predators that lurk inevitably include lion, brown hyena and vultures, while other species spotted year round are aardwolf, porcupine, bat-eared fox, honey badger and scrub hare. The more elusive cheetah and leopard are more occasional sightings, in contrast to the hundreds of birds that swoop in from all corners of the continent
to join the congregation. From flamboyances of Greater and Lesser Flamingos to pelicans, spoonbills, storks and countless species, the watering holes are flush with their interactions and chatter.
Not all safaris however are created equal and having an excellent guide is the game-changer. These are scouts with superpowers, the terrain-savvy men and women of the bush who shepherd you throughout your stay, going above and beyond to ensure you leave with priceless memories. The guides at Jack’s and all of Unchartered Africa’s camps, benchmark against the very best which happens to be the award winning Ralph Bousfield and Super Sande – both recognized as among the finest in the field. Ralph, who has trained most of the trackers, was mentored first by his
father and then by Cobra Keipeile, a Bushman from the Shuakhwe clan in central Botswana who was part of the team that helped build the first Jack’s in 1962 and whom Ralph has known since he was a boy. If the planets align you may well meet Cobra in camp and have him join the outing with the Bushmen – a coveted encounter.
Summers in the Makgadikgadi are intense. In the heat of the day anything that requires minimal effort takes preference such as siestas on repeat, game gazing from a deckchair or slipping beneath the icy waters of the lap pool in the gorgeously appointed pavilion. As with game drives, group activities are booked in the early morning or late afternoon when its cooler, and guests can choose from horse riding, quad biking and sleep-outs
on the pan, helicopter flips and bird watching. A high point is the educational wisdom walk led by members of the Ju’/haonsi, a San tribe with whom Unchartered Africa has cultivated an invaluable relationship over the decades. An enriching few hours is spent in their company listening to them chat animatedly in clicks- interpreted by a guide - about the medicinal and nutritional benefits of various plants and trees, hunting techniques and fire making and they round off the excursion with a traditional dance. A trip to the habituated meerkat colony is also a joy. Watched over by dedicated keepers, these endearing little creatures are well accustomed to the presence of humans and being able to observe them at such close quarters is one for the bucket list. Plus, not much can top
the feeling of having one of them scamper up your back to use the top of your head as a vantage point!
After dark, the camp is utterly magical with lanterns lining the pathways and a warm glow emanating from within. Above, the constellations glitter and as night falls, nocturnal sounds are carried on the balmy breeze.
Jack’s is expertly managed by a tight team that consistently demonstrate a fierce commitment to protect this great environment through the power of bush tourism. All this while joining hands with local communities, government and organizations to preserve San culture, biodiversity and fragile habitats.
JACK’S CAMP IS AN INVITATION TO EXPERIENCE A DESERT KINGDOM THAT DELIVERS ON THE UNEXPECTED IN FAR REACHING WAYS. IT IS THE PERFECT EVERYTHING.
A thirty minute flight from the nuanced nothingness of Botswana’s Makgadikgadi lies the Okavango Delta, one of the true wonders of the world and the planet’s 1,000th World Heritage site. It is here, to the slight north of the Vumbura and Duba Plains that you find Duke’s East, the region’s most recent addition to the Unchartered Africa fold and a bonsai version of Jack’s Camp, within a sprawling 220,000 hectare concession.
Duke’s East is an exercise in intimacy with only four suites under canvas which makes it ideal for exclusive-use groups. Choose from twin rooms, a double or the family unit, the latter with its own plunge pool, and hypnotic views across a small lagoon with a proliferation of waterbirds that cements the camp as a twitcher’s paradise. Ralph Bousfield’s flair for storied objét compilation reigns throughout, exhibited in the way he has arranged artifacts and memorabilia across all spaces, the seductive décor faithfully reflecting the original design concept at Jack’s. It is an eclectic but judicious mélange of North African, Arabian and postcolonial 1940s campaign safari style.
As you unzip the mesh flap of your tent ‘door’ and step into the delicious coolness of the loungecome-bedroom you feel instantly at home. The small sitting room with
sofas and easy chairs, ottomans, bureaux and writing nooks culminate in the characteristic elevated four-poster double beds. Here and elsewhere, tent walls and ceilings are swathed in textured fabrics to create a soft, sumptuous look. Beyond the sleeping area, the bathroom zip opens onto a walkway that in turns leads to an outdoor shower under the trees, the al fresco ablutions of dreams. Out front, an expansive teak wooden deck furnished with chaise lounges, overlooks the channel where cormorants on partially submerged logs preen and sun gaze with wings spread wide, while the soul -stirring call of the fish eagle floats on the breeze.
The true charm of Duke’s East, located a stone’s throw from Duke’s, its slighter larger sister camp, lies in its extraordinary setting. Fronted by an expansive aqua landscape and spectacular vistas, the property is encircled by a luxuriant forest, a verdant respite in the summer months. The canopied path to the reception is an enchanting run-up to the mess tent that mimics Jack’s with the divinely decadent high tea tent, announced by weighty paisley-print drapes cinched with red velvet tiebacks, and the dining hall and bar- lounge with its deep couches and antique drinks chest. There are numerous spots to spend an afternoon siesta, tranquilized
by the heat and the wilderness soundscape. As long as the weather plays along, most meals are relished outside at a long table under two ancient jackal berries, where conversations between guides and guests are inspiring and informative, the perfect finale to your day.
Green season on the Delta is an eruption of new life. From elephant families of forty or more, to countless wildebeest and zebra, and giraffe towers numbering close to twenty, all congregate in their droves to take advantage of the flourishing savannah. This biodiverse territory with its seasonal floodplains and permanent waterways supports everything from buffalo to big cats and wild dogs and boasts phenomenal birdlife. Again, trackers like Glynn are the safari wizards, adept at ferreting out apex sightings yet without missing the oft-overlooked Small Five. From
these remarkable encounters on land, to witnessing a black-winged pratincole murmuration swirl across a dusky pink sky, and miniaturefrog-spotting as you glide across the glassy shallows in a mokoro dugout with Kenneth, an exceptionally knowledgeable Poler with a deep passion for the Delta. Each experience is thoughtfully curated by your guide, who takes your personal preferences into account at every turn.
A safari at Duke’s East is an opportunity to re-root yourself in nature and, as Ralph Bousfield once said, you get what you never knew you wanted.
So far in his life, 49-year-old Alexander Haninuna has climbed the three trees in his backyard more times than he can remember. Like most Rotinese men, he is an expert climber and has been scampering up and down these trees since a teenager. For the inhabitants of this small dry island south-west of Timor, the lontar is no ordinary tree. The lontar palm (Borassus flabellifer or sugar palm) is one of the earth’s most efficient sugar producing plants. Growing up to 30 meters, this drought-resistant palm is the ‘tree of life’ and guarantee against famine for the people of Roti (also spelt Rote).
It is thought that Roti vulnerable to erosion, became infertile hundreds of years ago. Gradually Roti’s inhabitants have learned to use the tens of thousands of lontar palms that colonized their soil-depleted environment, thereby reverting from an agricultural based society to one of gatherers. There is an unusual degree of reliance on the lontar palm for food, shelter and a bewildering array of other products. The sweet freshly tapped lontar juice known as tuak manis is the first nutrition that a newly born Rotinese child receives, even before its mother’s breast milk. And when that child had lived out its life and dies, it will be buried in a coffin constructed from the hollowed out trunk of the palm.
It was 4.30pm when Alexander roused himself from an afternoon sleep and prepared for work. I had agreed to meet him at this hour, and as I entered his home beams of slatted light streaked through the walling of stripped lontar leafstalk. He buckled up his climbing belt, from which an assortment of palm tapping tools hung in woven lontar leaf sheaths. To his belt he clipped a basket called a haik, fashioned from the fan of the lontar leaf. In this he would collect the tuak manis from his three lontar palms.
With the assurance of one who has done the job countless times before, Alexander stepped onto his first palm that sways high over our heads some 30 meters above. His leathery feet grasped the footholds cut into the lontar’s fibrous trunk and in a matter of seconds his wiry frame was pushing through the crown’s thick barricade of leaf stalks.
The lontar palm blossoms twice a year. Two or three lontar palms can support a family with juice and related products when other food is scarce or unavailable. Because of the lontar, Roti and nearby Savu are the only islands in the area that do not experience the annual period of hunger (lapar biasa). Climbing and tapping the lontar is strictly a male activity. Boys begin by practicing on shorter palms at an early age. From the age of fifteen if they climb and work hard, they win not only the respect of their family and community, but also the adoration of the local girls.
When the end of the dry season nears (September - October) and the palm is at its peak of sugar production, most villagers hasten to get the harvest in quick before the rains. Some climbers sleep beneath their palms, and will start work as early as one o’clock in the morning to climb and process up to 30 trees.
Family members run from the palms to the kitchens where the wives will cook for as many hours as the men climb. The lontar palm supplies much more than sustenance for the Rotinese. As I departed the Haninuna household, my astonishment over ‘the tree of a thousand uses’ continued. I observed its utilization in an extensive array of everyday products everywhere I looked.
In addition to the haik used for collecting tuak manis, the broad lontar leaf is woven into mats, betel nut boxes, containers for watering the garden, trays for winnowing rice, fans, umbrellas, belts, knife-sheaths, thatch for roofing houses, cigarette papers and even handbags for transporting chickens to market! The leaves are never wasted, for example when a house is re-thatched every 4-5 years; the old leaf thatching is burnt on the garden to fertilize it.
The Rotinese also plait a distinctive hat, the ti’i langga out of the leaf. Inspired by the designs of 16th and 17th century Portuguese helmets, they feature a sprouting phallic appendage on the front. Traditionally worn by men, there are ti i’ langga for different occasions ranging from everyday use to celebrations. The celebration hats tend to be larger and more elaborate, with wider spiked fringes often painted in bright colors.
The lontar leaf even provides the Rotinese with a unique musical instrument called the sasando. With a technique similar to the one used in haik construction, the leaf is fashioned into a hemispherical sounding board into which a copper-stringed bamboo tube is inserted producing a harp-like sound when plucked.
When interlaced, lontar leaf stalks which can grow up to 1.5 meters
in length, make excellent fences, house partitions and even birdcages or may be worked by stripping and twisting its fibers to make ropes, halters, bridles and a multitude of other items. When the ‘tree of life’ finally becomes old and unproductive, the trunk, which is stronger than coconut, is shaped into house beams, posts and rafters and hollowed out for pig feeding troughs and coffins.
The lontar palm is a fascinating aspect to this off-the-beaten track travel destination, but Roti has plenty of other attractions and activities. The island is beautiful with hills, valleys and escarpments dominated by the ever-present lontar palm, but there’s also beauty underwater. The snorkelling and diving is good with spectacular walls and caverns, and a huge variety of marine life.
Most visitors get to Roti by taking the ferry from Kupang’s Bolok harbour in West Timor to the tiny port of Pantai Baru on northwestern side of Roti, which seethes with island life when the boat comes in. From here, if you are lucky you’ll find a bus going in your direction, otherwise and more often it’s a truck or a bemo you’ll be boarding. This is the stuff that adventurous travelers revel in. Seated on a wooden plank high in the back of a truck with pigs, chickens and literally whole villages as fellow passengers, you’ll get great island views while making rewarding connections with the locals.
Roti is a relatively small island, being roughly 80 km long and 23 km at its widest. There are only a few roads on the island many of them challenging 4WD tracks. Apart from the busy traffic when the ferry docks, local transport tends to run at its most regular on market days, and following the market days to different villages is a great way to see and experience Roti.
In the far west of the island is Papela, a Muslim fishing village set on a beautiful harbor with a fleet of colorful boats. If you love traditional wooden sailing boats then Papela is a dream. With prior arrangement it
is possible to accompany fishermen on one of their fishing runs. On Saturday, Papela hosts the island’s largest market, where men can be seen wearing their wonderful ti’i langga hats.
Ba’a is Roti’s main town and business district which also has a market day. On the outskirts along the beach there are some lovely traditional houses; tall boat-shaped lontar thatched roofs that sweep to the ground. If you ask politely residents may allow you to view the cool interior featuring three or four stores.
Of the small number of visitors to Roti, most head straight to Nemberala Beach which boasts some of the best left hand surf in Indonesia (June to October are the best months). Nemberala Beach has a handful of home stays run by friendly families and a small resort where most visitors staying elsewhere end up meeting for sunset drinks.
There are some wonderful ikat cloth weavers in Nemberala as in most of Roti’s villages. The intricate floral designs are unique to the village, which make lovely souvenirs. Weavers can usually be seen at their looms close to the village square; often older women teaching young girls the ancient craft.
If you are not careful you could easily spend your whole trip in this relaxed and picturesque coastal village simply soaking up the sun, surfing, snorkelling and hanging out at the home stays and letting the gentle tempo of island life take its hold.
On my final evening on Roti, as I strolled the dusty tracks near my beach cottage in Nemberala, I was greeted by several lontar tappers heading home with their baskets full of lontar juice. As it’s a custom on the island for lontar tappers to offer fresh juice to anyone they encounter, I had my fill directly from the haik, of this elixir that flows from Roti’s ‘tree of a thousand uses.’
In the vibrant tapestry of Mexican culture, few events rival the exuberance and vivacity of the Carnivals of Quintana Roo. Nestled along the dazzling Caribbean coastline, these celebrations encapsulate the spirit and essence of the region, serving as a dazzling spectacle of tradition, music, and color. Dating back centuries, these carnivals represent a fusion of indigenous heritage, Spanish influence, and contemporary flair, weaving together a rich tapestry of rituals and festivities. From elaborate parades adorned with intricately crafted floats to pulsating rhythms of traditional music echoing through the streets, the Carnivals of Quintana Roo stand as a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of Mexican culture. Beyond their sheer spectacle, these carnivals hold profound cultural significance, serving as a time-honored platform for communities to come together, celebrate shared heritage, and pay homage to their ancestors. As the calendar turns to 2024, the anticipation and excitement surrounding these festivities are palpable, promising yet another year of joyous revelry and cherished traditions in the heart of Quintana Roo.
Nestled off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, Isla Mujeres stands as a jewel in Quintana Roo’s crown, captivating visitors with its pristine beaches, rich history, and vibrant culture. Named after the ancient Mayan goddess of fertility, Ixchel, the island carries a legacy steeped in mythology and tradition. Beyond its breathtaking natural beauty, Isla Mujeres holds deep cultural significance, serving as a nexus where past and present converge. From the remnants of ancient Mayan temples to the colonial vestiges of Spanish influence, the island’s landscape is a testament to its diverse heritage. Yet, it is the warmth and hospitality of its people that truly define its essence. Through
colorful festivals, such as the Festival of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception and the Day of the Dead celebrations, locals pay homage to their roots, preserving age-old customs and rituals. The island’s thriving artisan community showcases traditional craftsmanship, from intricately woven textiles to hand-carved wooden sculptures, providing a glimpse into its rich cultural tapestry. A highlight of the trip, Isla Mujeres is a beacon of tradition and authenticity, inviting travelers to immerse themselves in its enchanting blend of history, culture, and natural splendor that was moving to witness.
Set against the backdrop of Cozumel’s coastal paradise in Quintana Roo, Mexico, the Pueblo del Mal Mayan Village stands as a cultural sanctuary, proudly preserving the vibrant heritage of the ancient Mayan civilization. Amidst the azure waters and verdant landscapes, this enchanting enclave beckons visitors on a captivating journey through time, where the echoes of centuriesold traditions resound alongside the rhythms of contemporary life. Here, amidst the swaying palms and vibrant colors, visitors are
invited to immerse themselves in a tapestry of Mayan culture, engaging in immersive workshops, lively performances, and insightful storytelling sessions that offer a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Mayan life. During this tour, the performers exercise excellent storytelling by providing an entertaining and interactive experience where you will make chocolate, and tamales together with your group. It is a not to be missed opportunity to learn and interact with Mayan culture for the family or your group.
In between the February Carnival schedule in Cozumel during February, the Ceviche Festival emerges as an eagerly anticipated annual celebration of culinary excellence and cultural heritage. This gastronomic extravaganza transforms the island into a paradise for seafood enthusiasts, offering a tantalizing array of ceviche creations showcasing the freshest catches from the Caribbean waters. From traditional recipes passed down through generations to innovative twists that push the boundaries of flavor, the festival highlights the versatility and artistry of this iconic dish. Attendees are treated to a sensory feast as they sample
an array of ceviche varieties, each bursting with the vibrant colors and bold flavors of Mexico’s coastal cuisine. Alongside the culinary delights, live music, cultural performances, and interactive cooking demonstrations create a festive atmosphere that celebrates both the culinary heritage and the natural beauty of Cozumel. As a celebration of community, culture, and cuisine, the Ceviche Festival in Cozumel serves as a testament to the island’s rich traditions and its status as a culinary destination not to be missed. My personal highlight was Ceviche Verde in house made Tequila pictured below.
Situated in the heart of Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico, Casa Mission Restaurant stands as a culinary oasis, inviting patrons on a journey of flavors deeply rooted in tradition and innovation. Renowned for its exquisite offerings that showcase the rich tapestry of Mexican cuisine, Casa Mission Restaurant is a beloved fixture in the local dining scene. From authentic regional dishes bursting with bold flavors to contemporary interpretations that push the boundaries of culinary artistry, the restaurant caters to diverse palates with its diverse menu. Fabiola Morales (pictured below) is the 2nd generation owner, and described her menu and gave a tour of her home and restaurant with deep pride. Fabiola has taken extra care, on top of providing a beautiful atmosphere, attentive staff, and delicious menus, to ensure that the restaurant and menus are completely accessible to all, including the hearing and
seeing impaired. The restaurant’s ambiance, with its inviting decor and welcoming atmosphere, serves as a fitting backdrop for memorable dining experiences, whether it be a romantic evening for two or a festive gathering with friends and family. Casa Mission Restaurant plays a vital role in preserving culinary traditions, serving as a custodian of age-old recipes passed down through generations. By honoring the culinary heritage of Cozumel and Quintana Roo, the restaurant pays homage to the flavors and traditions that have shaped the region’s gastronomic identity. As Casa Mission Restaurant continues to delight patrons in 2024, it remains a beacon of culinary excellence and a testament to the enduring importance of preserving and celebrating Mexico’s rich culinary heritage. A highlight of the menu was the “Sexy Coffee”, and their famed “Coconut Shrimp”.
The 150th anniversary Carnival of Cozumel in Quintana Roo, Mexico, marks a momentous occasion in the island’s rich cultural tapestry, celebrating a century and a half of vibrant traditions and joyous revelry. As one of the most anticipated events on the island’s calendar, the Carnival embodies the essence of Cozumel’s festive spirit, drawing locals and visitors alike to partake in a whirlwind of colorful parades, lively music, and exuberant dance performances. From its humble beginnings in 1874 as a modest street celebration to its evolution into a grand spectacle of culture and community, the Carnival has become a cherished tradition that transcends generations, uniting people from all walks of life in a shared celebration of heritage and camaraderie.
At the heart of the 150th anniversary Carnival of Cozumel lies a rich tapestry of traditions deeply rooted in the island’s cultural heritage. Throughout the festivities, the streets come alive with a kaleidoscope of costumes, floats adorned with elaborate designs, and performances that pay homage to the island’s history and folklore. Each aspect of the Carnival reflects the unique blend of influences that shape Cozumel’s identity, from the vibrant colors and rhythms of Caribbean culture to the echoes of Mayan traditions that resonate throughout the island. Central to the Carnival experience are the spirited comparsas (a group of dancers with festival masks and costumes), or street parties, where revelers don elaborate costumes and masks, dancing to the infectious beat of traditional music as they parade through the streets. The Carnival serves as a platform for local artisans, musicians, and performers to showcase their talents, further enriching the cultural tapestry of Cozumel. As the 150th anniversary Carnival of Cozumel unfolds in 2024, it not only commemorates a century and a half of tradition but also reaffirms the island’s enduring commitment to preserving its cultural heritage and sharing it with the world.
Croatia’s Dalmatian coast is often defined by its’ crown jewel, the Old City of Dubrovnik. One could spend a significant amount of time exploring dozens of fine dining institutions and historical hotspots held within its’ grandiose walls. However, if you’re willing to peel away from the medieval maze and head south no more than 30 minutes, you’ll be wonderfully rewarded. Known as “The Provence of the Dubrovnik region”, the Konavle Valley awaits with a variety of culturally unique activities.
The valley is watched over by Sokol Grad, an impressive fortress located in the hills above the village of Dunave and near the CroatianBosnian border. Dating back to prehistoric times, this site is a history buff’s dream. Many small stairs weave up and around an otherwise inaccessible cliffside that is worth the climb. The subtle scent of honey sits on the breeze and there are remarkable views in all directions. Explore the restored rooms that house ancient weaponry, jewelry, and historical displays from roman, byzantine, and medieval occupants.
Take a 10-minute drive through evergreen cypress trees and ancient grape vines to my best recommendation for an ideal lunch in the Konavle Valley, Konavoski Dvori. The Ljuta river runs alongside their dining area, providing a fairytale-like setting that simultaneously relaxes one’s nervous system and propels the surrounding water mills. National dishes prepared in the style of Croatian grandmothers are served by staff wearing traditional Konavle folk attire. Immersive and elevated, this experience is not to be missed.
Regrettably, Croatia does not mass produce their wines (and they’re almost impossible to find in my hometown of Vancouver). Therefore, one must take full advantage of the moment, and head straight to Winery Botaro for an authentic tasting experience. This small business is deeply rooted in heritage - the family has been tending to their grapes for over 600 years. Spend the afternoon enjoying pairings in a picturesque backyard. If you’re lucky, and end up there on a Sunday, Matea’s grandma might make you her lemon cake from a recipe that is three centuries old. Be sure to try their ZinfandelBotaro’s varietal is native to Croatia.
In my eyes, the best hotel in Croatia is one that requires as few steps as possible to the Adriatic Sea. Hotel Bellevue is perched 30 meters above the clear waters of Miramare Bay and is an excellent choice for those wanting a boutique luxury experience with the rare accessibility of a private, sandy cove. This property is very close to the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik, providing the best of both worlds. Contemporary details and elegant service are woven throughout this five-star hotel. Spend one evening dining in-house at Vapour restaurant, a recommendation backed by yours truly and the Michelin Guide (five years and counting). The food, staff, and wine list are exceptional.
Visiting Florence, Rome, and Naples during the summer offers a delightful immersion into the heart of Italian culture, history, and art. Each city promises sun-drenched days filled with gelato, espresso, and the joy of la
dolce vita.
