DRIFT Travel Magazine Fall 2021

Page 1

T R AV E L

O F T E N . L I V E

W E L L

T R AV E L

M A G A Z I N E

WINE MUSEUMS OF THE WORLD

SPIRITED HISTORY ACROSS SEVEN COUNTRIES ANTIGUA + BARBUDA

A DEEP BLUE TALE OF TWO CARIBBEAN ISLANDS

A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY

DISCOVER THE PEOPLE AND PLACES OF PERU

PRIMEVAL GLACIERS IN CHILE

10 DAYS IN TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK

FALL 2021

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Bags designed to be efficient, protective and extremely durable Get through TSA faster and with ease Designed to protect your tech and belongings, with plenty of pockets

Learn more at www.ec-bc.com 2 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Discover the unsearchable Discover the forest

Find a trail near you at DiscoverTheForest.org TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 1


PUBLISHER GLOSSY MEDIA

CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEVE DRAKE

PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL JOCELYN BLACK, ALBA CACCAVALE, JUNE DAGNALL, MONISHA GOHIL, ANDREW MARSHALL, KAITLIN NARCISO, KIRA KANANI SEAMON, MICHAEL TREMBLAY

CREATIVE | PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE DRAKE, JEAN FRANÇOIS GUGGENHEIM, ANDREW MARSHALL, KAITLIN NARCISO, KIRA KANANI SEAMON, TOM WHEATLEY, ELEANOR YE, ANTIGUA & BARBUDA TOURISM AUTHORITY,TOURISM IRELAND, ADOBE STOCK

ADVERTISING & PUBLISHING RIGHTS INQUIRIES sales@DRIFTtravel.com | DRIFTtravel.com

Published by: Glossy Media All rights reserved. No part of DRIFT magazine may be copied or reproduced without permission. © COPYRIGHT DRIFT TRAVEL MAGAZINE GLOSSY MEDIA 2015-2021


BAGGALLINI All Set 3-In-1 Backpack

ENTER for a

CHANCE TO WIN To enter, visit the DRIFT Travel Magazine contest page HERE! drifttravel.com/giveaway TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 3


10 06 cover story Wine Museums of the World

46

BY MONISHA GOHIL A true story for those that love wine and are craving travel. From ultra contemporary to historical reverence, come with us to seven of the world’s best wine museums.

columns 18 Travel Gear 44 Hotel Spotlight 64 #WhereToNext

4 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

56

22


2

BY MICHAEL TREMBLAY A Caribbean tale of two islands told from a local perspective.

22 Chasing Glaciers in Chile BY ANDREW MARSHALL A 10-day trek across Torres del Paine National Park.

28 A Photographic Journey

BY KIRA KANANI SEAMON A unique look at the people and places of Peru.

46 Northern Ireland

BY JOCELYN BLACK Exploring Belfast and beyond with the help of a paddle.

Contents

10 Antigua & Barbuda

50 British Columbia BY KAITLIN NARCISO The surf, sand, sea and landscapes of Canada’s wild west coast.

56 Siringit Safari Camp

BY JUNE DAGNALL This luxury mobile camp embraces the roots of safari in renowned Serengeti National Park.

6o Underwater Art

BY ALBA CACCAVALE An artist reimagnes art that embodies water, the human form and adventure.

28

60

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 5


Seven Wine Museums for the traveling wine enthusiast

BY: MONISHA GOHIL As our long awaited travel plans cautiously begin to formulate, a definite travel bucket item to embrace are visits to fascinating wine museums. These museums are found all around the world, some with state of the art facilities, while others are abundant with charm; however all have magnificent stories and histories.

6 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


La Cite du Vin Bordeaux, France Opened in 2016, La Cite du Vin is a prominent building designed to mimic both the swirl of wine in a glass and the curves of the nearby Garonne River. Within its ten floors, you will find interactive maps, stateof-the-art exhibition technology, tasting rooms and an assortment of restaurants, including Restaurant Le 7, which offers outstanding panoramic views of Bordeaux.

WiMu: The Wine Museum Barolo, Italy Located inside a castle with a rich 1000 year old history, WiMu gives visitors a complete journey through the wines of Barolo. Start your expedition on the panoramic terrace with an exploration of the wine in history, myth and tradition, and descend to the cellar, where the region’s first Nebbiolo wines were made in the 19th century. Here you will see bottles and labels from all the towns that produce Barolo, as well as the opportunity to take some home with you.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7


Vivanco Museum Rioja, Spain With 4,000 square meters of exhibition space, the Vivanco Museum dedicates its six large rooms to the fascinating relationship between man and wine over 8,000 years. There are century’s old vessels and farming tools alongside great works of art and audio visual features. Outside you will discover the museum’s crowning glory which is the Garden of Bacchus, home to a vineyard featuring more than 220 grape varieties from around the world. Port Wine Museum Porto, Portugal Dating back to the 17th century and located in the Cais Novo Warehouse is the Port Wine Museum which showcases the history of the Port wine industry and the impact its trade had on the development of Porto. You will find antiques, fine and rare bottles, enchanting stories of wine producers and plenty of opportunities for tastings.

Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum Santorini, Greece The Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum is nestled in a cave 26 feet down. It is Greece’s only wine museum, and offers an in-depth look at the ancient history of Santorini’s wine industry. Explore rare wine artifacts, cultural items and innovations, and then visit the adjacent family winery for demonstrations and tastings. 8 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Pleven Wine Museum, Pleven, Bulgaria Founded in 2008 and hidden within in a cave in Kaylaka Park, the Pleven Wine Museum is home to the country’s first vocational viniculture school, which opened in 1890, and showcases everything Bulgarian wine has to offer. Visitors can learn about the history of Bulgarian wine, as well as where it stands today. Its cellars are home to more than 7,000 bottles from all of Bulgaria’s wine producing regions, many of which are available for tastings.

1881 Museum Napa, California The 1881 Museum in California’s Napa Valley features possibly the most comprehensive exhibition of the valley’s early winemaking history. Visitors can learn the stories of Napa’s early pioneers, explore winemaking relics and immerse themselves in fascinating documents from the California Wine Trade Archive. There are more than 50 wines by the glass available for tastings which can be enjoyed in the property’s 150 year old Victoria house.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 9


A Tale of Two Islands BY: MICHAEL TREMBLAY Even before we embarked on a tropical odyssey to Antigua and Barbuda, our considerable excitement was tempered by a touch of unfamiliarity. While we knew we could expect the warm sun, soft sands, and azure waters typical of every Caribbean haven, coming to terms with the true identity of the destination would have to come from our adventures on Antigua, the larger and more developed of the two islands, and our forays to Barbuda, its wilder, sparsely inhabited neighbor. What we found in Antigua and Barbuda was not one exceptional island, but two: each distinct in character but so alike in their magnetic charm and breadth of profoundly memorable experiences. At once both rustic and lavish, adventurous and tranquil, the eclectic range of the attractions, accommodations, and excursions available in Antigua and Barbuda stands out as this perfect pair’s greatest virtue. Offering something for travelers of all ages and inclinations, Antigua and Barbuda is a dynamic paradise with a novel allure that defies our endeavors to summarize and chronicle it, despite our best efforts to do so for you below. 10 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Lessons From The Locals From the moment we arrived at Antigua's V.C. Bird International Airport, we were overwhelmed by the reception we received from the locals. Even beyond the taxi drivers and hotel staff, it seemed as if there was always a smiling face willing to guide us to our next stop or recommend an entirely new one. The genuine quality of our welcome speaks greatly to the pride the locals have for their idyllic home and to their resilience and optimism in the wake of economic challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic. It was from these organic interactions with the enthusiastic inhabitants of Antigua’s colorful capital of St. John’s that we gained an understanding and an appreciation for the country’s history. Antigua, the “older brother”, is a former British colony and sugar plantation of some 90,000 people originally inhabited by the indigenous Arawaks, bestowed its modern name by Christopher Columbus in the late 1400s. Antigua’s stunning coastline is rimmed with coral reefs brimming with endangered sea turtles and parrotfish; its tropical headlands punctuated by volcanic rock formations, breezy cliffside villages, and the (relative) cosmopolitan bustle of scenic St. John’s. Barbuda, the “younger sister” lies 40 km north of Antigua, its population of fewer than 2,000 mostly cloistered around the village of Codrington, a colonial residential center over three centuries old established on a lagoon. Unspoiled by modern development, Barbuda’s highlands feature coastal caves and compelling cliff-faces, its famous lagoon serving as the region’s largest colony of the beautiful and well-named Magnificent Frigatebird. Barbuda is regularly accessible by ferry boat or water taxi from Antigua, with local flights between the two islands also available. Expect a trip of roughly one and a half hours, if you opt to sail the cerulean waves.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11


In the Lap of Luxury That Antigua and Barbuda’s fascinating history is less-known even to frequent visitors of the region is a shame, but also perhaps reflective of the overshadowing effect of the islands’ reputation for excellence in accommodations. As we traveled the breadth of Antigua, it seemed as if each perfect, white sand beach we passed was host to its own collection of oceanfront cabanas or overlooked by a smattering of hilltop hideaways. Larger resorts like Hermitage Bay, COCOs, and the Royalton constitute Antigua’s compelling portfolio of all-inclusive properties, impressing with prime beach access, extensive spa and dining amenities, and the impeccable blending of an authentic Caribbean design aesthetic with the latest in modern luxuries. For our part, we were hosted by the breathtaking Jumby Bay, a 300-acre private retreat on Long Island, two miles off the coast of Antigua proper. Swaying palm trees ushered us into the private world of Jumby Bay from the very first moment we stepped foot on the quaint wooden dock. A tour of the expansive grounds revealed the property’s full splendor: multiple infinity pools and restaurants, a massive fitness center and spa, and the pristine ivory beaches at Pasture Bay, ready to accommodate seekers of suntans and aquatic adventures alike. The striking White Egret we spied en-route to our lodgings was an arresting sight trumped only by the tasteful sophistication and elegant nautical stylings of our beach side suite, complete with plush white linens, a personal soaking tub, and an outdoor garden. We can only assume that the bliss we experienced at Jumby Bay can be matched during a stay at any of the other luxury resorts, boutique or otherwise, on the islands. Even Barbuda, in its wild and natural glory, can assert a claim to superlative pockets of luxury with properties like its Barbuda Belle: an incredibly exclusive getaway comprising six charming wooden bungalows within the sandy heart of Codrington Lagoon Park. Accessible only by boat, the Belle is a favorite of travelers who crave privacy without compromising on comfort, as well as proximity to the reptiles, birds, sea turtles, and lobsters who make Barbuda their home.

12 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Dining on the Dunes There is a staggering amount of gourmet dining options in Antigua and Barbuda, spoiling even the most frivolous foodie for choice. When we searched for the classic tropical fare that typifies Caribbean cuisine, we found it: delicious Johnnycakes, seafood chowder, fish cakes, and grilled spiny lobster, served up fresh and aromatic and brought directly to our beach loungers. There’s nothing quite like enjoying fresh seafood in direct proximity to its source, a local liquid favorite like English Harbour rum or Wadadli in hand, as you gaze contentedly into the endless blue. Rather recently, the gastronomy of Antigua and Barbuda has embraced a trend of incorporating global flavors. With historical influence from the British, French, Spanish, and indigenous Carib, it is perhaps natural that its cuisine would move to reflect its diverse origins. The aptly named Sheer Rocks, which sits atop a cliff at the Cocobay resort, is one of the restaurants leading this tantalizing renaissance. Led by award-winning Chef-deCuisine Simon Christey-French, Sheer Rocks serves up a locally sourced Mediterranean-style tasting menu complete with lamb shank, beetroot tartare, and seared yellowfin tuna. The Foie Gras Parfait was velvety and savory, melting on the tongue while stimulating the taste buds with spicy notes from the mustard seed. Elsewhere in Antigua, you’ll find palate-pleasing gourmet offerings at most of the restaurants that adjoin the major resorts. Carmichael’s at Sugar Ridge deserves special mention, boasting a ‘lavish cabana’ aesthetic and situated at the highest point of the resort, providing sweeping views of the hills and sea. Signature dishes like the Lobster medallions and bouillabaisse are cooked to perfection with herbs and spices that reflect Carib cooking traditions. If you’re famished from a day of fun on Barbuda, seek out Nobu, the Peruvian-Japanese sushi fusion restaurant realized through a partnership by Robert De Niro and Chef Nobuyuki Masuhisa. This internationally acclaimed eatery specializing in seafood is a natural fit for Barbuda, which boasts incredible seafood of its own, and elevates the dining experience even higher by consequence of its location on one of the island’s white powder beaches.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 13


What to see, what to do, and where to do... nothing While our time in Antigua and Barbuda has led us to conclude that it is a destination whose virtues must be experienced rather than relayed, we’ve shared a few of our highlights below, dividing them by island to make sure each receives their deserved due.

14 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Antigua Curious guests with an appreciation for history will want to first take time to embark on a walking tour of St. Johns, and then make a beeline for Nelson’s Dockyard. Named after Royal Navy Admiral Horatio Nelson, this UNESCO-recognized world heritage site has a storied history dating back to the 18th century. The hills surrounding this painstakingly restored site are full of pleasant hiking trails that wind around venerable colonial forts. The nearby lookout of Shirley Heights may be the best place to catch the sunrise (or sunset) on the island, stunning us with its sweeping, panoramic vantage over English Harbour. Devil’s Bridge National Park, just beyond the village of Willikies, is our pick for the most awe-inspiring natural site on Antigua, so-named for its limestone sea bridge carved over millions of years by geysers and blowholes. Standard Caribbean fare like cruising, kayaking, and duty-free shopping aside (all of which we heartily recommend, of course), Stingray City was the breakaway excursion of our trip. Traveling to the warm shallows of Seatons Village, we were ushered into the water with snorkel gear and encouraged to touch, feed, and swim with incredibly majestic stingrays. Our team was collectively astonished at the intrepid and friendly nature of these animals, who actively sought to interact with the humans visiting their colorful reef home. The fun didn’t end when we returned to dry land: we opted to book a combination tour and got up close with vivid parrots, giant (truly, giant!) tortoises, as well as a host of aquatic creatures on a mangrove snorkeling tour.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 15


Barbuda You can’t leave Barbuda without marveling at the Frigatebirds. The darlings of both ornithologists and more casual birdwatchers like ourselves, these sizable seabirds made an indelible impression with their inflatable crimson throat sacs. Perched on small sand rises, the males provided an intense visual contrast to the brackish waters of the lagoon, their mating coalescing into a frenzied, yet captivating orchestra of a thousand red balloons. Watching the lagoon’s inhabitants click, dance, and ‘drum’ (as our guide called it) their way through the ritual of mating was a spectacular natural drama that must be seen and heard to be believed. For something a little quieter but no less stimulating, we recommend a trip to the cliffside caves of Two Foot Bay National Park. While each cave here has an interesting story to tell, make Indian Cave your priority: as the only known cave on Barbuda with genuine Arawak petroglyphs, it’s one of the best ways to connect with the original inhabitants of the island on a visceral and visual level. Snorkel, dive, swim and sail, and hike. Barbuda is a natural wonderland that should be explored in all its forms through whichever physical manner you favor. That being said, we can’t in good faith publish a list of recommended Caribbean excursions without including horseback riding on the beach. Luckily, Barbuda excels in this regard as well: the luxe Lighthouse Bay Boutique Resort captured our hearts as on a cross-island gallop across the island’s beaches and through its shallows. Our spirited yet friendly steeds seemed to bear us with enthusiasm, making light work of Barbuda’s varied terrain and fearlessly wading into gentle, warm waters up to our waists. For making us feel like the cover models of our own romance novel, horseback riding comes highly recommended. A parting recommendation: as any veteran vacationer to the Caribbean would likely affirm, sometimes time spent on vacation is best spent doing nothing at all. The laid-back tempo of life in the region offers a much-needed escape from hectic schedules and urban staccato. With “a beach for every day of the year”, as the tagline goes, we recommend searching for a beach that best suits your personalized need for tranquil nothingness. For our money, the best beach to lose track of time and space on in Antigua is Rendezvous Bay, which is accessible only by off-road 4x4 and bordered by a nature preserve, allowing you to reconnect with the primal beauty of nature. On the quieter Barbuda, just about any beach will provide the perfect venue for letting the gentle waves lap at your heels, but of particular note is Princess Diana Beach, a crescent-shaped slice of divine pink sand that we fell in love with as a tanning and snorkeling venue.

We came to Antigua and Barbuda as neophytes, and left as evangelists: bringing the warm glow of the Caribbean back with us to our cubicles. 16 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


To learn more about Antigua and Barbuda and plan your own journey to the perfect pair, visit visitantiguabarbuda.com

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 17


BAGGALLINI all set 3-in-1backpack

Fresh style meets modern functionality in our Classic Collection of fan-favorite bags. No matter where the day takes you, our 3-in-1 Convertible Backpack will keep you confidently organized thanks to multi-functional compartments, quick-access pockets, and a removable RFID-protected wristlet. Your everyday just got a lot easier.

baggallini.com

HEX CAMO camo ranger camera mini sling

The HEX Camera Mini Sling is the perfect lightweight sling designed to streamline the storage of Mirrorless and smaller DSLR essentials. Removable and adjustable padded dividers for ease of use, a front fleece-lined phone pocket, a large front accessory pocket, and mini tripod straps are just some of the features that set this sling apart. With a wide range of size and style adjustability, whether you wear over the shoulder or around the waist, the Mini Sling is for super streamlined, on-the-go shooters.

hexbrand.com

18 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Soul Insole

Whether you are walking miles in an airport, a national park, commuting places for work or are in a theme park –making sure you feet are comfortable is key to good travel. These memory gel insole’s designed to relieve foot, back and other body pain through specially designed gel insoles that gently guide the foot into proper alignment in any type of shoe (including even flips or sandals!)

soulinsole.com

NUTSHELL COOLERS chill by nature

Nutshell is packable, lightweight, and can be carried hands-free. Take it wherever you go! Sustainable but sturdy, spacious but foldable: Nutshell is a thoughtfullydesigned cooler for lovers of the outdoors. They source leftover coconut husks from small-scale farmers in the Philippines, providing them with an additional source of income and creating new jobs in rural areas.

nutshellcoolers.com

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 19


ABLE CARRY max backpack

The Ultimate Everyday backpack for work, play, and travel. Built with 30L of smart, efficient storage, engineered carry comfort, and secure features. Dedicated work compartment. Spacious main compartment, and external pockets on all sides gives you the flexibility to arrange your day, your way. Durable, water resistant fabrics. Luggage Pass through. A hanger hook, and lockable zips. The Max makes the everyday journey smooth and secure.

ablecarry.com

20 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


ZENCHIE apple watch bands High-quality, light-weight and fashionable, Zenchie’s Apple Watch Bands come in two sizes for the perfect, secure fit, and in 4 different colors to dress up your Apple Watch and elevate your everyday look! zenchies.com

MISS SWISS vegan leather makeup case

A must-have travel essential has space to safely store all of your makeup products, with adjustable dividers to easily separate and organize your products and elasticated pockets to store your brushes without damaging their bristles. This multi-functional beauty case not only protects all your makeup, but also is great for storing travel minis, jewelry, electronics and valuables safe when you’re on the go.

missswiss.com

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 21


Torres del Paine National Park

CHILE A10-day trek across primeval glaciers

22 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


BY ANDREW MARSHALL High on the thermals the condor rides, etched black against an endless blue sky. With a wingspan of over two meters, its flight is one of effortless grace, eyes cast downward in an eternal search for carrion. The world below is one of harsh beauty. Jagged shards of solid rock thrust skywards by monumental forces forming a chain of snowcapped mountains. On the peaks, blizzards can occur at any time of the year, giving birth to glaciers; mammoth rivers of ice that scour deep valleys on their descent before calving giant icebergs into the numerous aquamarine lakes. At roughly 51 degrees south, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Torres del Paine National Park) is situated at the south-eastern end of the Hielo Sur, Patagonia’s massive southern continental icecap, which has, with the hand of thousands of years, landscaped this incredible region of southern Chile. For the condor we must have been easy targets to spot. In one powerful dive he sweeps down over our heads - two hikers alone in an immense wilderness, backpacks loaded with ten days’ worth of food and all the paraphernalia needed to hike the 100-kilometer ‘Circuit Trail’ of the Torres del Paine National Park. Walking the Circuit Trail anticlockwise is definitely the way to go. In this direction the days unfold, each better than the previous one. Every scenic highlight is literally thrown at the walker at the turn of a corner, or the cresting of a ridge, and always without warning. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 23


Lake Dickson is the first big event. Leaving the boggy channels of Paine River on our second day, we climb a ridge. Pow! A view so perfect we are gasping with pleasure and surprise. Ahead, a glacier sparkles in the late afternoon light like a million candles. At its foot lies Lake Dickson and floating in this sky-blue sea of tranquil reflection among the mobile icebergs is a peninsula of grass and woodland, and our first Refugio (mountain refuge hut). Most of the refuge huts in the national park are run as going concerns in the summer months. A bed, hot showers and the use of the kitchen are all part of the package and sometimes there are meals available. Camping comes with outside toilets and cold showers. Some refugios however are simple huts that double as living quarters of shepherds living on the remote pastures of bordering estancias and offer only camping and cold showers. Day three and we climb at last into the mountains that we had been skirting until now, via ‘the valley of dogs’ through an impressive stand of Magellanic forest. Suddenly a strange ‘whoosh’ sweeps through the trees. “What was that?” my partner Leanne exclaims leaping backwards. We both glance nervously about as though expecting an avalanche to come crashing through the trees. Crash! and even the ground seems to shake beneath our feet. Hurrying forward, we leave the forest and climb the morass of boulders that signify a glacier had once been this way and discover the answer. Glacier de los Perros had just calved

24 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


a mammoth chunk of ice into an icy lake below. With beating hearts, we watch as, yet another great sliver of ice liberates itself to plunge into the frigid water. Grinning from ear to ear we feel incredibly privileged to be witnessing this awesome spectacle. “Oh no, I’ve lost a boot!” cries an Israeli girl ahead. It is day four, the toughest on the circuit with the ascent of the highest point of the walk ahead - ‘el paso de los perros’. We have caught up with another group of hikers and making slow progress, bogged down in a sea of knee-deep mud entwined in an ankle breaking mire of tree roots at the tree line. Finally, we leave the boot-sucking bogs behind and begin the ascent, the path winding tortuously over the rock-strewn moraine of another glacier. At last, the glaciated peaks of the opposing range appear above our rocky horizon. Another ten minutes of renewed hope and panting and we reach the pass. There is really no way to describe the effects of such a view as Glacier Grey seen from the pass. It enters one horizon and leaves on the other, filling everything in between with deep blue ravines and white crests, great frozen waves that fan out like the ripples on a sand dune, capturing all the shades of aqua trapped within their frozen world. We stand; shivering as the icy wind whips our breath away, silent, shocked and moved in some terrible way. That night we lie shivering in our four seasons down sleeping bags at Campamiento los Perros. Alongside,

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 25


barely 100 meters or so is an immense river of ice. Sleeplessly I imagine I can hear it creaking, then in a moment of worry that my nose will freeze should I fall asleep, I hunker down into the claustrophobic confines of my bag and will myself to sleep. At Refugio Grey, situated at the foot of the glacier, walking tours on the ice, beds and hot showers, food and “no sorry, campers have cold water, and you may not light fires and yes we do sell meals” seems all too commercial after the wilderness we’d just left behind. We decide to push on, making the 27 kilometer day walk to Lake Pehoe, Glacier Frances and on to the refugio on Lake Nordenskjold. Two days in one, but our glorious weather is looking doubtful as ominous clouds roll in, and we still have the Torres del Paine (towers of Paine) to see and clouds would spell a big disappointment. Most people usually make the day’s climb to view the towers on their first day out. If the weather is fine (which is rare up there) you’d be crazy not to. Ok, so we were crazy, we left it till last and now here we are almost at the end of our trek, gazing through the panoramic windows of Refugio Chile, trying to catch glimpses of the famous peaks through swirling mists that creep with icy fingers around the mountain’s flank obscuring everything. The pitter-patter of rain on the tent fly is my first indication of the weather the next morning. There’s a sinking sensation going on in my

26 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


stomach as I scramble outside to view the damp mist steeling about the campground trees. I am hard pressed to see the refugio only 30 meters away. The refugio cook is less than optimistic. “Not today,” he says eyeing the weather. But even so, we wait before giving the ‘OK’ to radio ahead and book our bus seat out of the park. I had resigned myself to missing ‘the towers’, had convinced myself that it isn’t always best to have a perfect ending when suddenly a fellow trekker Siegfried exclaims, “Hey wow, check out all that blue sky, I think it will clear!” We are all on the track within half an hour. The chance of seeing anything is still up for debate but I feel better for trying. “One hour, no five minutes, hell - even just a few moments,” I implore the clouds as we begin to climb. You’ve got to wonder if there’s some omnipotent power that ordains ‘yes’ or ‘no’. For just as we reach the lookout, the sun breaks out through the clouds behind us, sending ribbons of light and shade racing across the ice strewn lake below, across the water-streaked cliffs above and there they are, the majestic peaks of Torres del Paine… There was hardly a moment to spare in wonder before the need to capture their beauty on film was paramount. Four shots and already the clouds begin to close in, are once again drawing the curtains on my few short moments, on the unforgettable highlight of Torres del Paine National Park.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 27


Machu Picchu is located in the Sacred Valley and is accessed by either train or the famous Inca Trail. It is located in a cloud forest at almost 8,000 ft above sea level.

28 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


PERU A Photographic Journey Featured Artist: Kira Kanani Seamon

Instagram: @authorkiraseamon Website: kiraseamonphotography.com Gear: iPad Kira Kanani Seamon is an award-winning photographer from Boston. She has had over fifty newspaper cover stories about her art and celebrated her debut solo museum exhibit recently. A national and two-time regional dance champ, she appeared in Dance Teacher and Dance Spirit Magazine as an editors’ choice for winning contests. She is a gold medal/ state winner in piano performance, a fourteen-time grant recipient from cultural councils and was the inaugural artistin-residence in Natick, Massachusetts. All of this culminated in her receiving the prestigious Albert Nelson Marquis Lifetime Achievement Award, for which she appeared in the Wall Street Journal in 2020.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 29


30 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Explorer Hiram Bingham III led a joint expedition with the Peruvian government, Yale University and National Geographic in 1911 and made this ancient site known to the world again. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 31


Moss and lichen find comfortable homes on all the walls of the Citadel. These ancient ruins have seen innumerable rainstorms over the centuries and they also endure through a lengthy rainy season that spans from December to April.

32 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Imposing stone structures on Machu Picchu. A thunderstorm is close by and will last three hours with dramatic sonic booms of thunder and frequent lightning. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 33


34 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


The clouds rush up the side of Machu Picchu mountain enveloping everything in their midst. The Inca were renowned for their advances in agriculture. One of their most significant achievements was terrace farming.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 35


Catacombs far beneath the Monastery of San Francisco in Lima. This is a historic cemetery which served to bury 25,000 people. 36 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 37


This stunning design features many faces and flower images. Some spanning the length of an entire building.

38 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 39


26) Two ladies in traditional dress with a cuddly alpaca on the famous Inca Trail which leads directly from here in downtown Cuzco to the famous Machu Picchu Citadel ruins in the Sacred Valley.

40 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


After a long day of sightseeing and wandering, a hearty greeting by the hotel doorman becomes a highlight of the day in itself in Cuzco. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41


Flair and fun are the orders of the day in Urubamba on this family-owned farm. The Marinera dance is a treat for visitors as they get ready to savor a farm-to-table traditionally prepared meal. 42 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


While it is fun to visit an alpaca farm in Peru, nothing beats seeing a small herd wandering around ancient ruins. This one is meandering around Sacsayhuaman in Cuzco, which was an important military base for the Inca Empire.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 43


Spotlight Fairmont Taghazout Bay, Morocco A luxury five-star wellness resort nestled at the heart of Taghazout Bay with exceptional leisure facilities, invites you to sit back and enjoy every moment in an idyllic piece of heaven. We offer a seductive blend of style and serenity, with a range of gourmet restaurants and bars, a rejuvenating Fairmont Spa, a fitness center, a kids club and a teens club, along with choices of rooms, suites and villas all with an ocean view.

44 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Fairmont Taghazout Bay offers 146 rooms, suites and villas with ocean views. A large selection of Deluxe and Fairmont Gold rooms and suites, in addition to four signature villas are available for memorable stays. Spa and wellness - Discover this wellness destination and indulge in a rejuvenating experience inspired by local tradition. Fairmont Spa promotes a healthier lifestyle through self-discovery and inner balance and offers a range of health benefits with its tailormade treatments. Golf - Taghazout is being praised as a first class golf destination, welcoming golfers to the unique 18- hole and 9-hole golf courses designed by world specialist Kyle Phillips spread over a 30 hectares ground. Dining - From seasonally inspired menus to dining experiences that will satisfy any craving, see what our chefs are preparing just for you. fairmont.com/taghazout

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 45


Exploring Northern Ireland by Paddle For paddlers of all descriptions, the coastline, lakes and rivers of Northern Ireland provide the ultimate in fun and excitement, or the best in peace and tranquility.

46 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Flat-water kayaking, sea kayaking, river kayaking, white-water kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding and canoing are all easily at the paddler’s command in Northern Ireland. Everywhere you go, you’ll discover boatyards, marinas, jetties and a wealth of hire operators and tour specialists full of local pride and the giant spirit of Northern Ireland – all ready and willing to help you heighten the experience of taking to the water. The twisting Northern Ireland coastline, full of wide bays, secluded beaches, towering cliffs and a rich variety of habitats, is absolutely ideal sea kayaking territory, with County Down’s Strangford Lough high up on the must-try list. The largest sea inlet in Britain or Ireland, is an outdoor adventurer’s dream. It’s dotted with countless coves, harbors, quays and piers, and more than 70 islands. Discreet wild camping is allowed on some of the islands, so if you’re into a spot of kayak camping then you’ll love it here. Go it alone, or try the Strangford Lough Activity Center, which offers kayak and canoe hire, tuition and a range of cool tours.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 47


With world-famous sights such as the Giant’s Causeway and the Old Bushmills Distillery, the Causeway Coast is another sea kayaking hot spot. Get the most out of your paddle with the likes of Causeway Coast Kayaking Tours, who can guide you on kayak and food tours, moonlight kayaking, trips to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and more. If you prefer freshwater to saltwater a good idea would be to slip into Lough Erne and the peaceful lakelands of County Fermanagh. These vast lakes and network of waterways are perfect for tranquil kayaking and canoing and there are numerous places to hire from. Try the Water Activity Zone in Enniskillen or Castle Archdale Marina, which offers sit-on-top kayaks and Canadian canoes that are great fun for everyone. Once you have paddled a while you will find it easy to moor up and enjoy a picnic or a lakeside meal in one of the many pubs, restaurants, cafés and hotels that dot the shores of Upper and Lower Lough Erne.

48 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Canoe trails also abound in Northern Ireland, with the likes of Lough Neagh, the largest inland lake in the UK and Ireland, the River Bann and the River Blackwater all offering peaceful escapes, diverse wildlife and historical sites to explore. City-based experiences on the water include a two-hour stand-up paddle-board trip on the River Foyle, which flows through Derry~Londonderry. Far and Wild can provide all the gear and take you on a relaxing exploration that lets you see the famous Walled City from a whole new angle In Belfast you can take a kayak trip around the harbour and the River Lagan quays. Bryson Lagansports will provide a waterborne perspective on how the city has changed since the Titanic was launched there in 1911. For paddlers in search of white-knuckle thrills, head for the Mourne River running through the Mountains of Mourne. It’s probably the best white-water experience in Northern Ireland.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 49


A British Columbia Wilderness Adventure BY: KAITLIN NARCISO

From rocky coastlines to sandy beaches, immense forests to sprawling plains, giant mountains to inland deserts, and crystal lakes to salty waters, the diverse landscape of British Columbia provides a pristine ecosystem and vast wilderness perfect for adventure. The outdoors have always been a kind of home to me—a city girl with a wild heart. When the opportunity arose to spend an extended period of time in British Columbia, I immediately knew I was in for the wildest adventure of my life. After months of exploring and getting lost, I’m sharing my favorite wilderness experiences in Canada’s backyard.

50 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Camper Van Camping Camp Junkie provided the wheels, Adrienne provided the tunes, and I provided the navigation—which explains why one wrong turn led to another, which ended up leading to many fun, unplanned adventures. Traveling in Betsy, our Camp Junkie camper van, was a wild ride—and honestly, a highlight in my life. There’s a certain romanticism to an old school refurbished Volkswagen Westfalia. Manual steering with automatic transmission. Retro interior with life luxuries like a stove and water. It’s the perfect camping setup. Getting acquainted with Betsy as we drove up to our first location in the Garibaldi Highlands was exhilarating. Let me tell you, 10 point turns with manual steering will keep you on your toes. Though, once we arrived at our destination for the night, it was all worth it. Overlooking the beautiful mountain scape, we popped up our tent roof, made a beautiful fire, cooked a pesto pasta dinner, and cracked open a Backcountry Brewing beer as the sun set. With the crickets chirping, the bushes rustling with wildlife, and the fire burning a beautiful ember glow, it was an idyllic night spent in the Squamish wilderness.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 51


White Water Rafting I grew up swimming in small rapids in the Kawarthas and hiking to waterfalls on nearly every vacation. There’s something about rushing water that feels so empowering and mesmerizing. Nestled away in Squamish, the Elaho River—surrounded by a backdrop of beautiful mountains, lush greenery, and rocky shores—is the source of one of my favorite wilderness experiences: white water rafting. Led by Canadian Outback Rafting Company, this adrenaline filled excursion is the perfect balance of exhilarating fun and wild adventure.

52 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


As Marlie and I get situated, wetsuit, life jacket, and helmet all on and fastened, Graham—the rafting company’s owner and our guide for the day—walks us through the different rafting strokes. He instructs us on how to hold the paddle and brace for impact, leading us through several trials of the different safety maneuvers. Though his notes are filled with warnings and what if scenarios, his sturdy and confident tone is hallmarked by his experience. On the river, the rapids push and pull us through, guiding us through massive waves that splash into the boat. We paddle hard, brace for impact, then paddle again—all on the command of our expert guide. We’re drenched. Our smiles stretched from ear to ear the entire time.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 53


Hiking It’s no secret that British Columbia is equipped with stellar views at some of the most breathtaking summits in Canada. Breathtaking is the word of choice because quite literally, getting to these summits will take your breath away. They’re a trek and a half to get to, venturing through some grueling conditions, but that view at the top is not one you’ll want to miss. Half the fun of hiking is the journey to the destination, so don’t forget to enjoy the equally awe-inspiring views along the way—whether waterfalls, grassy plains, or dense forest.

54 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Surfing Waves I feel come hand in hand with rushing water—so it’s no surprise that catching a wave in Tofino makes the cut for my favorite wilderness experiences in British Columbia. Tofino is a surfer’s Disney World. With shallow waves closer to the beach at Cox Bay and bigger waves as you paddle away from shore, the bay is the perfect place for both beginners and experienced surfers. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of catching your first wave; though I should also note, there’s also nothing quite like getting rumbled and tumbled by massive waves and learning just how wild the water is! Scary—yes, though also worth it. If you’re just learning, remember to listen to your instructor, don’t be afraid to fall down, but also don’t be afraid to get back up and have fun!

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55


Siringit Migration Camp BY: JUNE DAGNALL

56 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Countless travelers have a safari is at the top of their bucket list. Whether it’s your first game drive or your tenth, each one is a unique journey; a true broadening of horizons; an education for the mind; and a rejuvenation of the soul. If your desire to travel has you dreaming of sighting countless bird species, herds of elephants, or thousands of wildebeest and zebra walking the plains to the river in search of a safe crossing point, then a visit to the Siringit Migration Camp by Mantis is a must. Mantis combines responsible tourism, conservation and adventure, which solidifies the most amazing one of a kind travel experiences sure to be on everyone’s bucket list. The Great Migration has been described as one of the greatest shows on earth, and the Serengeti National Park has the highest concentration of plains game in Africa. The Siringit Luxury Mobile Camp embraces the roots of safari and travels every few months in symbiosis with wildlife, to follow the wildebeest herds, zebra, Thomson gazelles, and all the other predators that the Great Migration attracts inside this renowned National Park. The best time to travel to the camp is during the crossing season which occurs between July and November; and the calving season which occurs between January and March. Wildlife is most active in the golden hours of the morning as well as in the evening. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 57


The Siringit Migration Camp opened in the Kogatende region (Northern Serengeti) where it will remain until November 2021. The camp will then move to the Ndutu region (Southern Serengeti) reopening on December 15, 2021, where it will continue until the end of March 2022 when the herds once again begin their migration north. This Bedouin style camp has eight luxury guest tents, positioned on raised platforms to provide guests with unobstructed views across the Serengeti wilderness. The unique octagonal shape of the tents are designed to dissolve the division between indoors and outdoors ultimately allowing guests to be closer to the Serengeti wilderness. The tents accommodate up to two guests, however two tents can be linked together to form a family tent. All tents contain an ensuite bathroom. There is a separate dining tent which serves contemporary seasonal dishes with an African twist, and a separate lounge tent which offers a selection of books and board games.

58 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


For the ultimate relaxation, Siringit has partnered with Healing Earth, a premium African spa brand that uses organic products made from natural active ingredients sourced from the continent’s powerful minerals, oceans, flowers, herbs, fruit, seeds and natural oils. There is a selection of massage therapies offered, all of which begin with a traditional African foot cleansing. Children can partake as well with a “Mini Me Treatment”. Mantis is a conservation focused hotel group and does a stellar job of using sustainable business practices, and develops tourism products that are respectful of the environment and communities in which they operate. The Siringit Migration Camp uses raised platforms for tents, rather than commonly used ground mats, and solar power is utilized for electricity and heating. As they say in Swahili, “safari njema” or “have a good trip”. Enjoy this amazing lifetime experience and travel with your sense of humor and passion for adventure.

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 59


The Art of

Anna Sweet BY: ALBA CACCAVALE

60 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


Anna Sweet’s work marries a craftsman’s approach to material with an Art Nouveau influence. Known for her luminous underwater nudes, Sweet portrays the ethereal through harmonious modes of painting and photography. By employing radiant minerals and pigments, the artist reimagines familiar elements of nature and the female form, rendering them brilliantly new to the viewer’s eye. Revealing the sensuality and elegance of women throughout the most exotic waters of the world. Sweet engages minerals like mica, diamond dust, and glass on the image, Sweet’s mixed-medium approach offers an otherworldly experience. Sweet’s work mimics elements of her shooting environments and creates “effects like the glisten that occurs when the sun kisses the sea.” The photographic images and encased materials coalesce into a stunning, seemingly three dimensional representation of the subject. The subjects in this series are radiant displays of female beauty. annasweet.com

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 61


“ART WASHES AWAY

THE SOUL, THE DUST OF EVERYDAY LIFE” - PABLO PICASSO

62 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 63


#WHERETONEXT MOROCCO

64 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

Feasting in Fes - A Gastronomic Journey