Colorado Life Magazine March-April 2025 by Flagship Publishing

MARCH/APRIL 2025

W ALKING THE EDGE

Highliners Defy Gravity

Above Colorado’s Wilds

TIBETAN GUERRILLAS

The Secret Warriors

Trained in the Rockies

MONUMENT OF PEACE

Finding Solace at Colorado’s Sacred Stupa Recipes Egg bakes for breakfast, lunch and dinner

Walking the Edge

Boulder highliners are the first to trek the “Thirst” between the First and Third Flatirons, balancing 450 feet above the ground.

by Ariella Nardizzi

24 A Secret Tibetan Army

At Camp Hale north of Leadville, the CIA led a covert operation to train Tibetan freedom fighters in the hopes of liberating Tibet from China.

by Justin Kiersky

30 Greatest Show on the Prairie

On the eastern plains of Colorado, great prairie chickens perform a mating ritual – a courtship best witnessed from a trailer in Wray. story and photographs by Josh Hardin

44 Monument of Peace

A memorial and architectural wonder, the Great Stupa of Dharmakaya towers the surrounding meadows near Red Feather Lakes. by Eric

Peterson

Guests fly into dinner served inside a Boeing KC-97 in Colorado Springs; Longmont photographer wins the 2024 Colorado Life Nature award for an American kestrel shot; The History Press cracks open a cold one for their newest book.

Stretch your quads for these questions about Colorado’s four-letter towns. Answers on page 50.

A Secret Tibetan Army, p 24

ON THE COVER

Wind-whipped sand stirs as Logan Henning rigs a 384 foot highline across the Great Sand Dunes. Story begins on page 16.

PHOTOGRAPH BY

ELI BENNETT

IN EVERY ISSUE

38 Kitchens

Elevate your breakfast with these egg-cellent dishes.

42 Poetry

Colorado poets reflect on the cold waters as the snow melts under the warming sun.

46 Go.See.Do.

Bike racers gear up for a gravel trek in Cokedale; Telluride becomes a mecca for documentary films during Memorial Day weekend.

52 Camping

RVs, caravans and campers find solace and luxury.

54 Peak Pixels

Soft, shimmering water flows through Medano Creek, rippling over the warm sands of the Great Sand Dunes

Map by Raven Maps & Images

Above: Danelle McCollum, Dan Leeth Page 5: Bruce Walker, Joshua Hardin, Drala Mountain Center

National Park.

Fruita p 52

Telluride p 46

Dolores p 52

Leadville p 24

Red Feather Lakes p 44

Greeley p 10

Boulder p 16

Strasburg p 52

Wray p 30

Colorado Springs p 10

Cokedale p 46

Mosca p 54

Alamosa p 52

From the Editor

MARCH/APRIL 2025

Volume 14, Number 2

Publisher & Editor

Chris Amundson

Associate Publisher

Angela Amundson

Managing Editor

Lauren Warring

Assigning Editor

Victoria Finlayson

Design

Jennifer Stevens, Mark Del Rosario

Staff Writer

Ariella Nardizzi

Photography Coordinator

Erik Maki

Advertising Sales

Sarah Smith

Subscriptions

Shiela Camay, Anne Canto

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Harmony in Extremes

COLORADO’S WILDNESS THRIVES in its contrasts – towering peaks, expansive prairies and quiet valleys offer a landscape that is ever-changing and full of surprises. This issue brings to light some of the state’s most compelling stories, each revealing the complex balance that defines Colorado.

Take the annual prairie chicken dance in Wray, for instance. In “The Greatest Show on the Prairie,” Joshua Hardin takes us into the heart of the lek, where male greater prairie chickens put on their vibrant display to attract mates. What might first appear as a humorous “funky chicken” dance is actually a mesmerizing performance of survival. Thanks to decades of conservation work, the birds, once on the brink of extinction, have returned in full force, and this year marks 30 years of birdwatching tours that celebrate this remarkable recovery

In northern Colorado, we explore the Great Stupa of Dharmakaya at Drala Mountain Center. Eric Peterson’s “Monument of Peace” highlights the 108-foot Buddhist monument’s mission of peace, resilience and transformation. Surrounded by the tranquil landscapes of Red Feather Lakes, this sacred site offers not only spiritual refuge but a living testament to the enduring efforts of those who built it, despite challenges like the 2020 Cameron Peak Fire.

Meanwhile, Ariella Nardizzi’s piece on highlining takes us into the skies above Boulder, where pioneers like Logan Henning and Eli Ellis push the limits of this extreme sport. Their feats – like walking a 0.8-inch wide highline between Boulder’s iconic Flatirons – show the adventurous spirit that courses through Colorado’s veins. For Henning, it’s more than a personal challenge; it’s a dream made real through years of preparation and perseverance.

And in the rugged mountain terrain of Camp Hale, where Tibetan freedom fighters trained for guerilla warfare in the 1960s, we remember a unique chapter in Colorado’s history. Justin Kiersky’s “Tibetan Guerrillas” tells the story of how nearly 300 Tibetans were trained in the high-altitude conditions of the Rockies by the CIA to fight for their homeland’s freedom. This story of bravery, sacrifice and resilience is a powerful reminder of how far-reaching Colorado’s impact has been in the struggle for peace and justice

As we look ahead, it’s clear that the stories we tell are reflections of the duality that defines Colorado. From the energetic dance of the prairie chickens to the quiet contemplation found at the Great Stupa, and from the sky-high feats of highliners to the legacy of Tibetan freedom fighters, the wild heart of Colorado endures – always pushing us to embrace the extremes.

Chris Amundson Publisher & Editor editor@coloradolifemag.com

NUGGETS AND OBSERVATIONS

ABOUT LIFE IN COLORADO

This sure beats airline food

Dine inside a huge airplane in Colorado Springs

by MATT MASICH

Few dining establishments are as accurately named as the Airplane Restaurant in Colorado Springs. It is, quite literally, a restaurant inside an airplane.

The silver Boeing KC-97, one of the largest piston-driven aircraft ever built, sits in front of the Radisson hotel right next to Colorado Springs Municipal Airport and Peterson Air Force Base. One of its massive wings juts inside a main restaurant building, where a hostess in an airline flight crew uniform greets customers – or passengers, as they’re called here – and leads them up a flight of stairs into the plane’s 117-foot-long fuselage.

Passengers sit in rows of booths on either side of the aisle, where servers, aka flight attendants, attend to their needs. One flight attendant spots a man looking at his cell phone and ignoring his dinner companion. “Sir, we ask that you turn off all portable electronic devices at this time,” she tells him.

While the passengers enjoy their meals, a gray-haired man in an airline captain’s uniform comes down the aisle to ask each table how they’re enjoying their flight. This is Steve Kanatzar, the Airplane Restaurant’s founder and owner.

Kanatzar has loved aviation since he was a boy, inspired by his pilot grandfather, a potato farmer in Monte Vista who

flew a small plane in a group called the Flying Farmers. Kanatzar became a pilot himself, flying a Cessna 182. He also loves restaurants – he is chairman of the Colorado Restaurant Association – so it made sense to combine his passions.

Once he came up with the idea for the Airplane Restaurant, the next step was relatively straightforward, Kanatzar said. “You only need to do a couple of things: Find a place, then find a plane,” he said. Easier said than done – that ended up taking 10 years.

He finally tracked down a decommissioned military KC-97 Stratofreighter, a four-propellered air tanker based on the B-29 Stratofortress bomber, on an air

Pilot restaurateur Steve Kanatzar transformed one of the largest piston-driven airplanes ever built into the Airplane Restaurant.

Joshua Hardin

base in Texas. However, the government was wary about the transaction. “I had to sign papers saying I would not sell the airplane to any foreign entity or anybody who would want it for nefarious reasons,” Kanatzar said.

The plane was dismantled, loaded onto eight semi-trucks and reassembled for the Airplane Restaurant’s 2002 grand opening. It was an instant hit among families with young children, who love exploring the airplane’s cockpit after they eat, as well as Colorado Springs’ large population of Air Force personnel from the two nearby air bases and the Air Force Academy. On most evenings, you can find military airmen swapping stories around the bar.

Only 42 people at a time can fit inside the plane itself – those who want to guarantee a spot should book a reservation ahead of time – but people dining in the building portion still get a unique experience. The KC-97’s left wing pokes through the wall, soaring over the heads of diners. The restaurant is a veritable aviation museum, with huge model airplanes suspended from the ceiling, a 24-foot Huey helicopter rotor blade and innumerable photographs signed by famous astronauts and pilots.

“See that booth over there?” a hostess said, pointing. “That’s where the last man on the moon sat.”

She was referring to Apollo astronaut Gene Cernan, one of the many air and space luminaries who have made special trips to dine here. For Kanatzar, getting a chance to meet and befriend these American heroes, who adore the Airplane Restaurant, is one of his favorite parts of an already fun job. He still marvels at the time his friend Jeff Olesen, a U-2 spy plane pilot, told him, “You’ve got the coolest job on the planet.”

Perhaps he does.

This story originally published in the March/April 2017 issue of olorado Life.

At the Airplane Restaurant in Colorado Springs, guests dine inside a Boeing KC-97 or under its left wing among flight memorabilia and model airplanes suspended from the ceiling.

Joshua Hardin

Pint-Sized Predator

Hovering kestrel photo wins special award in Share the View Photography Contest

photograph by ROB PALMER story by ARIELLA NARDIZZI

Photographer Robert Palmer’s infatuation with the American kestrel – the smallest falcon in North America – began at age 12. While climbing a tree near his home in Littleton, he stumbled upon a baby kestrel perched on a branch. The tiny raptor tried to take flight but tumbled 15 feet to the ground. Palmer quickly climbed down, scooped up the bird and took it home.

Over the next three months, the unlikely duo became inseparable. As the bird healed, it flitted around the neighborhood by day and returned through an open window at night, perching atop Palmer’s bed post. During this time, Palmer not only formed a bond with kestrels but also discovered his passion for photography, documenting the bird’s growth with his Polaroid camera.

Now a lifelong falconer and photographer, Palmer calls Longmont home and travels across Colorado capturing prairie chickens, sage grouse and other wildlife in their natural habitats. Still, kestrels remain his favorite avian subject.

In April 2005, while driving backroads near Greeley, Palmer spotted a kestrel fluttering above a field, poised to strike its prey. Using his car as a blind, he watched the bird hover for over a minute, its wings a blur of motion while its body remained perfectly still. To capture the dynamic moment, he used a slow shutter speed of 1/40th of a second, firing off more than 100 shots to achieve the perfect balance of motion and clarity.

“I wanted to accentuate the motion of the wings while still keeping the bird’s head nice and sharp,” Palmer said of the final image. That striking photo earned him

Colorado Life’s Colorado Nature award in the 2024 Share the View International Nature Photography Contest.

Through his photography, Palmer’s hopes to inspire a deeper appreciation for wildlife and conservation. “We have to take care of our planet and the wildlife that call it home,” Palmer said. His work, including his award-winning kestrel image, serves as a call to protect the landscapes that these creatures depend on.

Submissions for the 2025 Share the View International Nature Photography Contest will open Oct. 15. Learn more at sharetheview.contestvenue.com.

This photo was shot with a Canon EOS-1D Mark II camera at 1,000mm, f8, 1/40 sec, ISO 200.

Frothy history: How beer shaped Colorado’s identity

by ARIELLA NARDIZZI

Colorado is home to more than 400 breweries, including the iconic Coors – the country’s largest on-site brewery – where crystalline mountain water from Clear Creek in Golden is transformed into bubbly brews. In Brewed at Altitude: A Beer Lover’s History of Colorado, authors Samuel Bock and Jason Hanson explore the frothy influence of beer on the state’s past, present and future.

During the gold rush, saloons were more than just places to knock back a pint. These watering holes served as community hubs for remote mining towns. In fact, Denver itself was conceived in Apollo Hall, a local tavern, in 1860.

Beyond serving drinks, saloons often doubled as post offices, restaurants and hotels. Beer flowed freely – until it didn’t. In an ironic twist as rich as an Imperial stout, Colorado outlawed alcohol four years before national Prohibition took hold. For nearly two decades, it wasn’t just the beer that disappeared but an entire culture.

But as Bock and Hanson explain, beer wasn’t down for long. When Colorado rekindled its relationship with alcohol, beer led the way, fueling a booming industry by the 1970s.

The book takes readers on a meticulously researched bar hop through the state’s beer scene, charting its evolution from homegrown operations to the massive

brewing industry that has made Colorado one the world’s best places to grab a pint.

“Throughout Colorado’s history, beer has mainly been an unpretentious and generally accessible beverage enjoyed by folks who aren’t easily defined by geography, race, gender or socioeconomic status. And that means it’s a sort of magic potion for historians looking to make sense of the forces that have shaped everyday life in the Centennial State,” Bock and Hanson write.

Written with a healthy dose of humor and insight, Brewed at Altitude explores how beer has shaped the state’s culture and identity. If one thing is clear, it’s that Colorado’s spirit is brewed, not bottled.

Brewed at Altitude: A Beer Lover’s History of Colorado By Samuel Bock and Jason Hanson / The History Press / 176 pp., paperback, $25

FOUR-LETTER TOWNS

Test your quadrilateral thinking skills on these locales. by

BEN KITCHEN

1 Before Vail Resorts moved to its headquarters in Broomfield, it was based in what four-letter town 10 miles west of Vail? Despite its name, the town wasn’t a hub for international door-to-door sales.

Speaking of Vail, while it has been home to many elite skiers, it’s also the birthplace of Katie Uhlaender, a five-time Winter Olympian in what sport where athletes slide headfirst down an icy track?

Bailey Zimmerman and Cody Johnson are two headliners performing at a music festival this June on the Western Slope near Mack and Loma. The festival is named after and focuses on what genre of music?

By taking an unpaved road off the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway, you can visit what ghost town whose four-letter name is synonymous with “peak?”

5 Speaking of the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway, it runs through what Boulder County town with a fourletter name that was once Colorado’s richest due to silver mining?

Joshua Cantu

UPI/Alamy

MULTIPLE CHOICE

A past Trivia question (“Toponyms,” November/ December 2024) asserted that “Eads” is an abbreviation for “east and down south,” which is false. It’s named after engineer James Buchanan Eads, who designed the oldest still-standing bridge across what river? Bonus question: name the bridge.

a. Colorado River

b. Mississippi River

c. Nile River

7 Some four-letter towns have adopted a backronym – a descriptive phrase using words that start with each letter of the name. Which one is not an official backronym used by the town?

a. A Unique Little Town, Ault

b. Land of Magnificent Adventure, Loma

c. Simply Irresistible Little Town, Silt

The Denver, South Park and Pacific Railroad extended southwest of Denver. What fourletter town along its route was the hub for three mainlines and still has a roundhouse once used for locomotive repairs?

a. Como

b. Alma

c. King

9 During a hunting trip, which U.S. president attended the dedication of the Blue Schoolhouse between Divide Creek and Dry Hollow near Silt?

a. Herbert Hoover

b. Grover Cleveland

c. Theodore Roosevelt

10 In 2016, Lincoln County officials warned Hugo residents not to drink tap water due to false-positive test results suggesting contamination with what chemical?

a. LSD

b. PCP

c. THC

Wray was home to Harold Tabor, a pastor and member of the Colorado House of Representatives. His signature legislation, the Taxpayer’s Bill of Rights, was deliberately named so it would form the acronym TABOR.

While Die Hard 2 is set in the Washington, D.C. area, some scenes were filmed in Colorado –including shots of the antagonist’s hideout, which were filmed at the Historic Highlandlake Church near Mead.

The mascot of Yuma High School in Yuma, Arizona, is the Criminals. With similar lawlessness, Yuma High School in Yuma, Colorado, has the Outlaws as its mascot.

Alma, in Park County, is the only four-letter town in Colorado that sits in a county with a four-letter name.

Nunn is named after Tom Nunn, an early settler who allegedly saved a passenger train by preventing it from crossing a burning bridge. The Denver, South Park and Pacific Railroad awarded him with a square mile of land, naming the community in his honor.

Steve DiPersio

Pioneering highliners push limits above Colorado’s wild landscapes

by ARIELLA NARDIZZI

Though perceived as risky and dangerous, highliners find peace, resolve and strength suspended hundreds of feet above the ground. For Logan Henning, highlining the Great Sand Dunes is a “focused prayer.”

Eli Bennett

USTING WINDS WHIP

at Eli Ellis’ mane of brown hair as he splays his arms wide, balancing on a 0.8-inch strip of webbing. Four hundred fifty feet of air stand between him and the ground. The 1,100-foot-long highline, named “Thirst” (a nod to its anchors on the First and Third Flatirons), stretches between two of Boulder’s most iconic rock formations, which stand over the city like watchful sentinels.

Ellis is the first to step onto the line, tethered by a harness and leash for safety. The breeze rushes past his ears, sending S-shaped ripples down the webbing. Yet his heartbeat remains slow and steady. Balancing at such heights demands absolute focus – what he calls a “Zen state of mind.” His gaze locks onto the summit of the First Flatiron, more than 1,000 feet away. Then, he takes his first step off solid ground and into thin air.

An exhilarating sense of freedom swells through him. Below, Boulder bustles like a miniature city, nestled along the foothills. A red-tailed hawk weaves playfully around the highline, unfazed by its presence. As gusts gain strength, Ellis sways with the shifting line, trusting it as much as his own technique.

Bringing this moment to life took seven years of planning, 16 people and 15 hours to climb the Flatirons, rig gear and walk the highline. For Ellis, it’s more than a personal achievement – it’s the culmination of a lifelong dream.

For the first time last October, 11 people attempted "Thirst," a 1,100 foot highline between Boulder's First and Third Flatirons. Six completed the crossing, but only three sent the line without falling.

Alex Haraus

A Dream Takes Shape

Ellis grew up in Boulder with the Flatirons ever present on the horizon. He started slacklining at The Spot climbing gym as a teenager, practicing on a short line a few feet above the ground. The challenge of aligning his body with the tension of the line fascinated him. As he honed his skills, he transitioned to highlining – walking lines at least 100 feet in the air, secured with climbing-grade anchor systems and a safety leash.

While hiking Boulder’s trail network, he scouted untouched highline locations. Though the Flatirons have long been a climbing mecca, no one had crossed the dramatic gap between the First and Third. In 2018, he set his sights on being the first.

Over the years, Ellis built a career as a professional highliner, traveling the world, securing brand sponsorships and winning competitions. But the dream of walking “Thirst” remained out of reach. The Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department denied permit requests in 2018 and 2019, citing concerns over the line’s proximity to popular trails and climbing routes.

Then in August 2024, Logan Henning, alpine highline pioneer and friend, proposed a solution. He drafted a comprehensive safety plan addressing common misconceptions about highlining’s risks, detailing backup systems and outlining emergency protocols. “People perceive highlining as a death wish,” Ellis said, “So they’re surprised to find out we’re not adrenaline junkies.”

Henning’s persuasive approach worked: the long-awaited permit was finally approved.

Highline Before the Wedding

For Ellis, the timing was surreal. The highline he had dreamed of for years would happen on Oct. 12 – just one day before his wedding to fiancée, Lauren, whom he met through slacklining in 2018.

For highliner Eli Ellis (top left), the opportunity to send Thirst was one day before his wedding in Boulder. Logan Henning (bottom left) rests in a van after a marathon 24-hour rigging session that established 28 new lines near Fort Collins.

Adam Houseman (above); Isaac Leighninger (below)

“There were never conversations about ‘can I’ or ‘should I,’ ” Ellis said. “From the start, she told me, ‘We’ll make this happen for you.’ ”

The ceremony, held at Flagstaff House, overlooked the very Flatirons he had long dreamed of traversing. “You could probably see the highline in our wedding pictures,” he laughed. “It would have been heartbreaking not to go for it.”

Before dawn, Ellis and half of his crew climbed up the Third Flatiron, hauling 50-pound backpacks full of gear. Hen-

ning and the rest of the team ascended the First. The setup process was grueling: they spent an hour hiking up, six hours rigging the line and the entire morning securing redundant safety measures. By noon, the line was ready.

From Chautauqua Park, Ellis’ fiancée and wedding party watched as he stepped onto the line. A third of the way across, fierce wind forced him to turn back. Although he didn’t get to “send” the line – crossing the full length without falling – he didn’t see it as a failure. “Wind is a fickle but powerful

Logan Henning (top left) pilots a drone to send a lightweight string across a Colorado Springs gully where Bali Fitzpatrick (top right) and Brandon Proffitt rig an anchor with pulleys, carabiners and ropes attached to metal bolts pounded into granite.

part of flying. I don’t get scared of it anymore. I just feel so alive,” Ellis said. After celebrating atop the Flatirons, he raced down the mountain – arriving just in time for his rehearsal dinner, greeted by cheers from family and friends.

Erik Makić (both)

A Community in the Sky

Eleven people attempted “Thirst” that day, with six completing the crossing. Three made it without falling – only one was needed to officially establish and name the line. Among them was Logan Henning, the first to send it.

Henning had been terrified his first time on a highline in 2019. But his perseverance propelled him to the sport’s upper echelon. Often called the “solo highliner,” he’s notorious for hauling 100-pound packs into remote alpine environments, walking highlines alone in the vast, rugged landscapes of Rocky Mountain National Park.

For Henning, highlining is a form of prayer. “It’s the most focused prayer I could have, but without words,” he said. His next goal? Pushing highlining into the mainstream, elevating it to the level of other extreme sports.

Henning’s feats reflect the growing community of highliners pushing the limits across Colorado’s diverse landscapes. He has traversed lines strung between the towering dunes of Great Sand Dunes National Park and balanced atop the isolated sandstone pillars of Independence Monument near Fruita. He has walked with unwavering focus across lines parallel to Interstate 70 in Glenwood Canyon and between ice walls at Lake City.

Colorado’s highlining community is one of the most tightly knit in the country. Slackliners gather in Boulder’s parks, welcoming newcomers into the sport. “With a bit of balance,” Henning believes, “anyone can experience the joy of walking on a line.”

Though highlining is a relative newcomer to Colorado’s extreme sport scene, the state’s adventurous spirit is nothing new. Trailblazers like Henning and Ellis build upon Colorado’s long tradition of pioneering outdoor pursuits, using highlining as a way to explore every nook of the state’s canyons, peaks and deserts – from a birds-eye view.

For Ellis, Colorado’s skies hold a special pull. “I’ve been highlining all over the world, but Colorado is my favorite place to be up in the sky. It’s like returning home and seeing it from a perspective you can only get from up high.”

Though his dream highline is now complete, his ambitions remain sky-high. He’s now channeling his skills into competitive ice climbing as a member of the USA Ice Climbing team. But in his free time, he can still be found slacklining with his wife in a Boulder park.

As for “Thirst,” Ellis sees it as more than an athletic feat. It’s a symbol of perseverance – on the line and in life. Because even in the most turbulent moments, balance can always be found.

On Oct. 12, 2024, Thirst was established as an official highline. This crossing is one of many feats for highliners Ellis and Henning as they look to conquer new lines across Colorado‘s canyons, peaks and deserts.

Juan Elias Polit

by JUSTIN KIERSKY

How the CIA Trained Tibetan Guerrillas in the Rockies

They were the best and the bravest of their generation, and we wept together when they were killed fighting alongside their countrymen.”

“When men become desperate, they consult the gods. When the gods become desperate, they tell lies.”

The words of a lama, spoken to the Dalai Lama after an unfavorable divination ceremony, echoed the growing uncertainty in Tibet as Chinese forces tightened their grip.

Whether by oracles or rocket-propelled grenades, fate was sealed on the night of March 17, 1959, when two mortar shells crashed into the marsh near Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace in Lhasa. For weeks, venerated lamas and members of the Kashag (parliament) had debated whether the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, should continue negotiating with the increasingly impatient and emboldened Chinese – or flee. Divination rituals foretold that he should remain in Lhasa rather than flee to India. But the 23-yearold “Wish-Fulfilling Gem” also feared that the tens of thousands of Tibetans who had formed a human shield around his residence would be massacred by the 30,000

People’s Liberation Army (PLA) troops if they perceived his life – or his divinity – to be under threat.

Around 10 p.m. the following night, disguised as a Kham soldier and carrying a rifle, the Dalai Lama stepped out of Norbulingka’s south gate. At his side were his Guards Commander P.T. Takla, and the mastermind of the operation, Lord Chamberlain Thubten Woedhen Phala. Moving swiftly, they slipped through Lhasa’s back alleys to the Ramagang ferry, where they quietly crossed the Kyichu River on yak-hide coracles – heading toward exile and an uncertain future.

For the next four days, he and his entourage – 70 family members, Kashag ministers and loyal soldiers – traversed treacherous mountain passes, skirted enemy territory and crossed the Brahmaputra River during a sandstorm. Their journey ultimately led them to Riwo Dechen

Monastery in the Valley of the Kings.

Waiting a hundred miles south of Lhasa were two extraordinary men: Athar and Lhotse, wearing the white and yellow armbands of the Chushi Gangdruk volunteer army. The Tibetan freedom fighters had been secretly airdropped into Tibet the previous year by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). Using a handcranked radio transmitter, they provided updates on the Dalai Lama’s journey to their CIA handlers and a select group of U.S. officials – including President Dwight D. Eisenhower himself.

At the heart of this covert operation was a place thousands of miles away from Tibet – Camp Hale, Colorado. Nestled in the Rocky Mountains north of Leadville, Camp Hale had originally been established during World War II as the training ground for the 10th Mountain Division, an elite unit specializing in alpine

Camp Hale, home to the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division during World War II, later became the training center for nearly 300 Tibetan freedom fighters. Andrugtsang Gonpo Tashi (bottom right) selected the first recruits to liberate Tibet and restore the Dalai Lama (top right).

From top: Kinsey Brothers/Wikimedia Commons; Wikimedia Commons

Bruce Walker, STCIRCUS Archive of Tibetan Resistance, Box 2, Hoover Institution Library & Archives

Set in the Rocky Mountains north of Leadville, Camp Hale was the perfect site to train for high-altitude warfare in the mountains of Tibet.

warfare. Its rugged terrain and high-altitude conditions made it the ideal location for training Tibetan guerrillas in the art of resistance warfare.

Here, under the watchful eye of CIA trainers and military experts, a select group of Tibetan recruits underwent grueling training in guerrilla tactics, sabotage and survival. The skills they acquired at Camp Hale would soon be tested in the unforgiving mountains of their homeland, where they would fight not just for Tibet’s freedom but for their very survival.

THE IDEA OF TRAINING

Tibetan freedom fighters took root in 1956 when the Dalai Lama’s brothers, Gyalo Thondup and Takster Rinpoche, met with CIA operatives in Calcutta, India. U.S. authorities were initially hesitant to support Tibet’s struggle, fearing direct intervention would escalate the Cold War. But as reports of brutal Chinese repression in Tibet surfaced, attitudes shifted. The CIA saw an opportunity to harass the Chinese with minimal investment while furthering their broader goal of curbing communist expansion.

A bold plan was devised. Six Tibetan recruits would be flown from India to a CIA base on the Pacific island of Saipan, where they would undergo intensive training in guerrilla warfare, intelligence gathering and radio communications. Once trained, they would be airdropped back into Tibet to organize resistance movements and relay intelligence. The program, known as ST CIRCUS, was born.

The recruits were handpicked by Andrugtsang Gonpo Tashi, a wealthy Kham merchant who later led the Chushi Gangdruk resistance. Having witnessed PLA atrocities, they were deeply motivated. Among them were Athar and Lhotse, key figures in the Dalai Lama’s escape.

Over four and a half months on Saipan, the Tibetans underwent intensive training in guerrilla warfare, map reading and clandestine radio communications. To maintain plausible deniability, the CIA assigned the recruits American names, including Tom (Athar), Lou (Lhotse) and Walt (Wangdü).

In October 1957, Tibet Task Force Teams One and Two boarded a B-17 bomber at

Kurmitola airstrip in East Pakistan (now Bangladesh) and were flown by Polish aircrew into eastern Tibet. At 11 p.m., as Team One passed over the Brahmaputra River, they saw the green jump light flash. One by one, they leapt into the darkness toward the Kham region and their dream of Tibetan liberation. A second team had to wait weeks for favorable conditions.

The first airdrops were disastrous. Arms shipments never arrived, covers were blown and several trainees were killed. After a grueling 500-mile trek, Team Two leader Wangdü Gyatotsang arrived in Lhasa furious – his platoon was decimated, his organizing efforts squandered and not a single weapon had been provided to the famed Khampa resistance fighters who had come to help. He blamed the Americans.

Despite setbacks, the CIA saw longterm potential in Tibetan resistance. With backing from the State and Defense departments, as well as Eisenhower’s psychological strategy group, the ST CIRCUS program was approved with increased funding, ensuring future Tibetan operations.

Bruce Walker, STCIRCUS Archive of Tibetan Resistance, Box 2, Hoover Institution Library & Archives

IN EARLY 1958, Lhamo Tsering, later dubbed the “Tibetan George Smiley,” led a group of Tibetans to the U.S. for CIA training. Since the CIA training facilities were still under construction, some recruits were sent to an undisclosed Virginia facility – later revealed as The Farm (Camp Peary). By summer, the new training site was ready, and the Tibetans were relocated to Camp Hale, the historic base of the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division.

The base was located north of Leadville, Colorado, in a secluded corner of the Pando Valley, visible today from Highway 24. The CIA training facilities on base featured a mess hall, recreation hall, barracks, classrooms and latrines, all enclosed by an unassuming wooden fence – designed as much to deter the occasional hiker or miner as to maintain an air of insignificance. CIA trainers called it The Ranch, but to the Tibetans, the mountains of Colorado reminded them of home –they called it Dumra (The Garden), and the name stuck.

One of the trainees, Bhusang – a former doctor from Lhasa whose life would later be spared by the butt of a Chinese rifle after a tragic battle in Markham – recalled the landscape vividly:

“The camp was located at the foot of a

low mountain. A broad valley with a river flowing through it lay before us. The mountains were beautiful, with forests and open areas in the distance, where people would ski in winter. We could see tiny figures of skiers gliding down the slopes. A railway line ran along the far side of the valley, and every evening, we would hear the lonely whistle of the freight train in the distance.”

Training was intense and tailored to the Tibetans’ needs. CIA officer John Kenneth Knaus lectured on history, political theory and espionage. Practical training covered guerrilla warfare, sabotage, radio communications, cryptography, survival skills, hand-to-hand combat, firearms and improvised explosives.

The CIA recruited professional smoke jumpers from the National Forest Service, known as the “Missoula Mafia,” to serve as parachute dispatch officers. Among them, “Mr. Jack” personally cut and stripped trees to build the platforms used for jump practice. Everyone liked “Tony Poe,” who was always joking and rode around camp on horseback, according to Thinlay Paljor (Rocky).

Then there was “Mr. Tom.” “All the Tibetan trainees were very fond of him,” Paljor recalled. “When he was finally

transferred, we had a sad farewell party. He couldn’t speak – he was crying; everybody was crying. He said he had to go but if we needed him, he would come and volunteer with us.”

One incident nearly exposed the operation, according to Bruce Walker, the last surviving CIA case officer involved in ST CIRCUS. “The Tibetan trainees found the equipment – including napalm and a wooden trough for making a missile –that went off one night. They lost control of it. It landed on a building at the Climax Molybdenum Mine near the Climax gate.” The CIA officer in charge rushed to the mine, met with the owner and paid $25,000 for damages.

Rumors of the explosion reached Washington, where CIA Director Robert McNamara reportedly quashed the story as a personal favor. Rather than shutting down the operation, the CIA turned the incident to its advantage, using it as a pretext for controlled detonations near Dumra, creating the illusion of a secret atomic test site hidden in the mountains near Leadville.

However, as Buddhist scripture teaches, “Three things cannot long stay hidden: the sun, the moon and the truth.”

Late one winter night, a transport vehicle carrying Tibetan trainees to Pe-

Tibetan recruits studied political theory and espionage and practiced firearm skills, such as loading a rocket launcher.

Lhamo Tsering

terson Airfield in Colorado Springs for parachute testing slid off a mountain road during a snowstorm, delaying their usual pre-dawn arrival. By the time they reached the tarmac, airport staff were already preparing for the day. When a bus full of “oriental looking” men pulled up, suspicion arose. A call was made, and within minutes, soldiers stormed the terminal, forcing everyone into offices and hangars at gunpoint.

One civilian later recalled an army officer addressing them: “He lined us up in my office. We had to hold up our hands and swear we wouldn’t talk about it. He said we were under the highest secrecy in the world.”

Close to 300 Tibetan freedom fighters trained at Camp Hale. Nearly every trainee and CIA trainer interviewed has recalled the deep camaraderie and shared sense of mission.

Translator Tashi Chödhar remembered a poignant moment on the tarmac in Thailand between Yeshi Wangyal (Tim) – an intelligent and serious-minded son of a chief – and a CIA officer known as Mark, with whom he had grown close during training. As Wangyal prepared for his mission, Mark was in tears while Wangyal struggled to relay a final request: for Lhamo Tsering to take care of his wife and children in Darjeeling. Yeshi Wangyal never returned from Tibet – he died in the land of his ancestors.

To the deep disappointment of the Tibetans and many CIA trainers, the ST CIRCUS program was abruptly abandoned in 1972 as U.S.-China relations began to thaw. Many Colorado-trained guerrillas were arrested in Mustang, Nepal, at China’s behest. Those who survived remain refugees, while Tibet remains under occupation to this day.

In 2010, a bronze plaque was installed near Camp Hale. It reads:

“From 1958 to 1964, Camp Hale played a vital role as a training site for Tibetan freedom fighters. Trained by the CIA, many of these brave men lost their lives in the struggle for freedom.

“ ‘They were the best and the bravest of their generation, and we wept together when they were killed fighting alongside their countrymen.’ ” – Orphans of the Cold War, by John Kenneth Knaus

There was a strong sense of camaraderie between the CIA trainers and the Tibetan recruits. In June 2024, Tibetans from across the state and country came to Camp Hale to honor the legacy of the freedom fighters. Bruce Walker, left, the only living CIA case officer involved in the operation, greets Tsering Dorje, one of the few living Camp Hale trainees.

Hugh Carey, The Colorado Sun

Bruce Walker, STCIRCUS Archive of Tibetan Resistance, Box 2, Hoover Institution Library & Archives

THE GREATEST SHOW ON THE

PRAIRIE

WRAY GREATER PRAIRIE CHICKENS STRUT THEIR STUFF

story and photographs by JOSHUA HARDIN

AYELLOW SCHOOL BUS

rumbles through the predawn darkness, navigating a maze of county roads deep in the rolling sandhills north of Wray. Inside, eager spectators anticipate a natural spectacle unlike any other.

The audience – about 20 people – disembarks and takes their seats on cushioned benches inside a metal trailer, a makeshift theater hidden within the prairie. A Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) guide, acting as the master of ceremonies, lifts the collapsible shutters of the blind. Like a rising curtain, the unveiling reveals frost-covered grasses, barely visible in the first glimmers of daylight.

These aren’t tickets to Hamilton or a Taylor Swift concert, but to one of nature’s most curious performances: the annual mating dance of the greater prairie chicken.

The stage is a lek – a term from Swedish meaning “play.” The excitement among birdwatchers rivals that of devoted fans

awaiting their favorite performer.

“People are enraptured,” said Wendy Figueroa, the CPW biologist overseeing the event. “They lean forward on the bench with their binoculars or spotting scope and stare. These guys put on a tremendous display.”

30 YEARS IN THE MAKING

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the Greater Prairie Chicken Tours, coordinated by CPW, the Wray Chamber of Commerce, and East Yuma County Historical Society. Each spring, birdwatchers from around the world flock to Wray for a chance to witness these captivating courtship dances.

The first sign of the birds’ presence is a low, resonant hum – like someone blowing across the top of a bottle. Known as “booming,” this sound guides observers’ eyes toward the silhouettes emerging in the prairie’s dim light. As the sun rises, cameras click, and muffled chuckles escape as spectators watch birds engage in their

almost comical “funky chicken” dance. The golden morning light illuminates the performances, ensuring the prairie chickens steal the show.

Standing slightly taller than domestic chickens, greater prairie chickens belong to the grouse family. Their brownand-white barred feathers provide camouflage, but the males boast a striking feature: vibrant orange air sacs on their throats. When they puff out these sacs and raise their feathery head tufts –called pinnae – they transform into flamboyant performers.

The dance is a dizzying display of wing spreading, head bobbing, and rapid foot stamping – an elaborate performance designed to impress potential mates and defend territory. Clucking, jumping, and wing flapping add to the show, evoking the energy of a martial arts master.

“CPW recorded a lek with around 80 males,” Figueroa said. “That’s a lot of testosterone in one place.”

Each spring, greater prairie chickens perform their courtship dances on the Eastern Plains of Colorado. In Wray, Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Wray Chamber of Commerce and the East Yuma County Historical Society celebrate 30 years of Greater Prairie Chicken Tours. Birdwatchers load a yellow school bus and ride down country roads to a metal trailer made just for watching the yearly mating rituals on the lek.

Seasoned birdwatchers and curious onlookers sit in the metal trailer positioned before the lek, awaiting for the greater prairie chickens to join the stage. The tours are part of a larger conservation story to restore habitat and educate the public about the once endangered birds.

CONSERVATION SUCCESS

Today, greater prairie chickens are flourishing in northeastern Colorado, particularly in Yuma, Washington and Phillips counties. But their survival was far from certain.

Once numbering in the millions, the birds suffered drastic population declines due to habitat loss caused by the Dust Bowl, overgrazing, and agricultural expansion. By 1973, Colorado listed the species as endangered, with only 600 birds remaining.

Conservation efforts – including CPW’s partnerships with Eastern Plains landowners – helped restore the birds’ habitat. By 1993, the species was downgraded to threatened, and by 1998, it was removed from the endangered list entirely. Today, Figueroa estimates the state’s population at around 10,000, allowing for limited hunting.

The lesser prairie chicken, a smaller cousin found in southeastern Colorado, has not fared as well. Once common in Prowers, Cheyenne, and Baca counties, their numbers continue to decline due to

habitat destruction and climate fluctuations. CPW is actively working with landowners to support their recovery.

At the Wray lek, the males perform undeterred, even without females present.

The hens will arrive through April and early May, choosing mates before retreating into the prairie to nest in hidden grass depressions. They lay about a dozen eggs, which hatch after 23 days.

Chicks grow quickly, taking flight within two weeks, though they remain dependent on their mother for up to 10 weeks. Predators – including raptors – pose constant threats. While adult prairie chickens can outmaneuver aerial hunters, chicks rely on dense grass cover for protection.

As the two-hour viewing session ends, the birdwatchers board the bus and head to a ranch-style breakfast hosted by the Kitzmiller Grazing Association. At the nearby ranch headquarters, Pete Wilson, CEO of Wray State Bank and a longtime association member, fries farm-raised bacon for the guests.

Over steaming coffee, fluffy pancakes,

and fresh eggs, Wilson explains the 15,000acre conservation partnership between local families and CPW. Sustainable cattle grazing plays a key role in maintaining healthy prairie chicken habitat.

CPW biologists survey leks each spring, listening for booming calls along designated routes. Private landowners also invite wildlife managers to explore new areas, often leading to the discovery of previously unknown leks.

FINDING PRAIRIE CHICKENS

While guided tours offer the best viewing experience, dedicated birders can explore on their own. County Roads 45 and PP north of Wray, east of U.S. Highway 385, are good spots to listen for the birds at dawn in April and May. However, many leks are hidden behind hills or on private land, making sightings difficult without expert guidance.

Each visit to the northeast plains offers a different experience. Weather conditions and the number of birds at the lek vary, ensuring no two mornings are alike.

Greater prairie chickens once numbered into the millions but plummeted to 600 in 1973 from severe habitat loss from the Dust Bowl, overgrazing and agricultural expansion. The CPW partnered with Eastern Plains landowners to restore habitat – that number now grows above 10,000.

“I loved it,” said tour attendee Teresa Arrospide. “The first time I came, it was foggy – I could see them up close but not far away. So, I came again, and it was amazing. The sound they make gives you chills.”

Most visitors stay overnight to ensure they catch the early morning bus and have time to explore the area. While prairie chickens are the stars of the show, Yuma County is home to a diverse cast of wildlife, including burrowing owls, horned larks, northern bobwhites, and ring-necked pheasants. White-tailed deer are so numerous they frequently dart across Highway 385.

This spring, tours run each weekend through April 13, rain or shine. CPW and the Wray Museum host mandatory orientations the evening before each tour, providing an overview of the greater prairie chicken and observation guidelines. Breakfast at the Kitzmiller Grazing Association is always included.

“You don’t have to be a birder to appreciate their antics,” said Wray Museum Director Ardith Hendrix. “We’ve had visitors from middle schoolers to people in their 90s. It’s hard to put into words until you see it.”

Wray’s prairie chickens attract birders from across the country and beyond. Many maintain “life lists” of bird species they hope to see, and some return repeatedly to witness the lek’s seasonal magic.

“What I enjoyed most was learning how the community protects these birds,” said tour attendee Luming Zhou.

Though no longer endangered, the greater prairie chicken’s future depends on continued conservation efforts. For the people of Wray, education and appreciation are vital tools in protecting a species once on the brink of extinction. As long as these dancing birds perform their springtime ritual, and as long as admirers gather to watch, the greatest show on the prairie will go on.

Greater Prairie Chicken Tours can be booked at WrayChamber.net or by calling the Wray Chamber of Commerce at (970) 332-3484.

Males are recognized for their bright orange air sacs on their throats. They gather to court hens in an elaborate display described as a “funky chicken dance.“ They puff out the sacs and stand their feathers up on their head as they stamp, spread their wings, bob their heads and cluck across the lek – a sight best enjoyed on the Eastern Plains near Wray.

City of Wray

TEATS Egg-cellent

Versatile recipes for breakfast, lunch and dinner

recipes and photographs by DANELLE McCOLLUM

HESE THREE TASTY recipes don’t yolk around. A firm tomato and basil quiche incorporates garden veggies into a baked pie crust, while bite-sized pastry cups are full of egg, bacon, cheese and chives. Sausage and egg breakfast pizzas are a morning favorite, but they reheat well for every meal of the day.

Roasted Tomato Basil Quiche

Savor this tomato basil quiche on its own for breakfast and lunch, or with a side salad for dinner. To avoid a soggy crust, pre-bake the pie shell and add a thin layer of shredded cheese before pouring in the egg mixture.

Prick all over thawed pie crust with a fork. Bake at 400° for 8 minutes or until golden. Place cherry tomatoes and shallots on a large baking sheet lined with foil, drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of salt, then stir to coat evenly. Bake at 400° for 15-20 minutes, until tomatoes shrivel and begin to burst. Set aside to cool. Whisk eggs, heavy cream, pepper and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a medium bowl. Set aside. Lay half of the cooked tomato mixture along the bottom of the pie crust and top with Gruyère and Parmesan cheese. Add half of the chopped basil. Pour egg mixture into pie pan. Sprinkle remaining tomato mixture and basil on top. Bake uncovered until quiche is set in the center and light golden brown. Cool for 5-10 minutes before slicing and serving.

1 9-inch pie crust shell

2 cups cherr y tomatoes

1/3 cup thinly sliced shallot

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 ½ tsp salt

4 eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 tsp pepper

1 cup shredded Gruyère cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2-3 Tbsp chopped fresh basil

Ser ves 8

Mini Quiche Bites

Each bite of these tasty pastry treats will leave you wanting more for brunch, lunch and appetizers. For a vegetarian option, nix the bacon and opt for bell peppers.

Whisk together eggs and cream. Stir in cheese, flour, salt, pepper, paprika, bacon and chives. Arrange pastry cups on a large baking sheet, then spoon egg mixture to the top of each cup.

Bake at 350° for 10-12 minutes, or until eggs are slightly puffy. Garnish with additional chopped chives and serve.

30 premade phyllo cups

4 eggs

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup finely shredded cheddar cheese

1 ½ tsp flour

3 pieces of bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled

1 Tbsp freshly chopped chives, or more for garnish

Pinch of salt and pepper

Pinch of paprika

Ser ves 16

Sausage and Egg Breakfast Pizzas

Snack on these mini breakfast pizzas for any meal. Switch up your flavors with different toppings each time, like bacon, ham, jalapeño, diced mushrooms or green onions.

In a skillet, cook sausage over medium heat until no longer pink. Drain grease and set aside. Whisk eggs, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne until combined. Separate English muffins. Dip each half into egg mixture, coating both sides, and place on a greased baking sheet.

Top each English muffin with sausage, cheese and red peppers. Bake at 400° for 15 minutes, or until cheese is melted and muffins are golden. Serve hot.

1/2 lb breakfast sausage

4 eggs

2 Tbsp milk

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

6 English muffins

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Ser ves 6

What’s in Your Recipe Box?

The editors are interested in featuring your favorite family recipes. Send your recipes (and memories inspired by your recipes) to editor@coloradolifemag. com or mail to the address at the front of this magazine.

OUR STATE THROUGH THE WORDS OF OUR POETS

Snowmelt sings as it revives the rivers and fills the lakes in time for spring. Winter releases its hold on the land and ushers in a splendid reprieve. In the thaw, our poets write, their words echoing a sweet awakening.

Winter’s End

Cher L. Tom, Palisade

Plates of snow shuffle over the rocks

Searching for crevices and crannies to hide in Until yellow rays of sunshine tickle them out

Giggling and gurgling down the mud slope

Pools of chocolate melt into the earth

Making underground tunnels of moisture

To soften wayward seeds sprinkled by fall’s winds.

Unfolding now with painter’s green

Filling the faded snow plates with colored flowers

Still wrapped in the tenderness of moist green leaves

And, of course, the leftover mud bath of winter’s snow.

Muddy Creek

Robert Basinger, Rifle

Walking through the bottom of Muddy Creek

The water flows like chocolate milk

Thick and sweet

I love the sound of water

As it goes its merry way

I hope this isn’t quicksand

Just wet clay.

Along a sandy bottom

It’s my favorite kind of dirt

Scrambling up an incline

This isn’t work

The air is sweet with moisture

And the desert’s still asleep

Soon there will be new life

And heat.

Winter worked her magic

December was quite cold

When the sky grew cloudy

It snowed

Now we’ve got some run off

From where the canyon’s been cut deep

So I left a set of footprints

Down in Muddy Creek.

March Thaw

Sandy Morgan, Colorado Springs

Scratching through winter mulch

I bring to light curled, sleeping things, slow fronds of unfurling things, green pearls of waking things.

Siberian iris, rosettes of summer herbs, hardy larkspur, lily tips; stems of lavender and sage bend to my touch: they’re ready!

I scattered seed last autumn so that we might be surprised with joy –or else what is winter for?

Noah Wetzel

Sunshine Frees the Earth

Vaughn Neeld, Cañon City

The pall of winter lifts as sunshine frees the earth from the last screes of dirty snow. Seeds wait.

Colorado Snowmelt

Steven Wade Veatch, Kingsley, Michigan

The slow surrender of winter begins when the sun leans closer, its warmth a soft whisper. The snow listens, shrinking into itself, flake by flake, as it turns itself into a memory. Then drip by drip, a quiet rush awakens. Rivulets break free, thin as veins, gather speed as they thread down mountainsides and slide over granite rocks, gaining strength with every bend.

Rivers rise, cold and restless, a chorus of movement singing through canyons carved over time. The land remembers these waters, knows their paths and welcomes their return.

Snowmelt doesn’t linger. It rushes toward something bigger –a prairie’s expanse, a rancher’s pasture, a forest lake, or a meadow that drinks deeply and where wildflowers bloom in reply.

This is the rhythm of the high country –snow to water, water to life. The earth softens, opens, breathes. A yearly miracle that holds the promise of renewal in every drop.

Don’t Step on the Tiny Flowers

Barbara

Musick, La Garita

Winter slid down to her white cocoon and threw sap crystals through every tree. The Mountain slept and winter winds were set free.

Then a pin prick of sunlight pierced the aspen bark. The crystals thawed and over days a tiny fluffy catkin made its mark. It’s the season of tiny flowers

Survey the ground of bent grass and puddles. See the first wisp of green for grass, and then discover in a hillock next to a granite rock the display of a tiny white flower;

Five petals round and slender as a pin, stalk so small it flattens in the wind. Brave little thing, it is the beginning of spring and even though small, it signals winter’s demise and the coming great flood of surprise.

Send Your Poems on the theme “On the Trail” for the July/August 2025 issue, deadline April 15 and “Wildlife” for the September/October 2025 issue, deadline June 1. Email your poems to poetry@coloradolifemag.com or mail to the address at the front of this magazine.

Guy Schmickle

MONUMENT OF PEACE

by ERIC PETERSON

NESTLED HIGH IN the Colorado Rockies, among wooded hillsides and expansive meadows near Red Feather Lakes, the Great Stupa of Dharmakaya rises as a profound symbol of peace, compassion and resilience. Towering 108 feet tall, this striking Buddhist monument crowns the valley at Drala Mountain Center, a contemplative retreat dedicated to personal and societal transformation.

Built to honor Chögyam Trungpa Rinpoche, the founder of Drala Mountain Center, the stupa represents not only a memorial but a sacred architectural feat. Its white, golden and vividly colored exterior is adorned with intricate carvings and symbols, each carrying deep meaning. For instance, the crescent moon and sun at its pinnacle symbolize compassion and the radiance of wisdom.

The Great Stupa of Dharmakaya Which Liberates Upon Seeing is a symbol of peace in the Colorado Rockies.

APV Engineered Coatings

The Great Stupa of Dharmakaya at Drala Mountain Center

The concept for the Great Stupa originated in 1974, and its construction began in 1988. Over the next 13 years, more than 600 volunteers brought the vision to life. Among them was a craftsman who dedicated five years of his life to the project. Using specially formulated concrete reinforced with rebar, the structure was designed to last a millennium – a testament to the enduring commitment of its creators. The sheer density of the rebar drew comparisons to a nuclear power plant, according to project overseer Joshua Mulder.

A SPIRITUAL EXPERIENCE

Visitors often have deeply personal and unexpected responses to the Great Stupa. “One of the practices is circumambulation – walking around the stupa in a clockwise direction,” Mulder shared. “I remember a woman wearing a T-shirt that said, ‘I’d rather be in Florida.’ Yet, I kept seeing her walk around and around.”

That woman was marking her 56th birthday by completing one lap for every year of her life. A few years later, she returned, this time walking 87 laps in memory of her recently departed mother. Her journey exemplifies how the stupa inspires profound

moments of reflection and connection, even for those who may not initially anticipate such a transformative experience.

Inside, the stupa deepens this sense of connection. Visitors enter a serene, four-story chamber dominated by a 24foot golden Buddha statue, sculpted in the Gandharan style. The figure radiates tranquility, seated in a meditative posture atop an ornate lotus throne. Surrounding the statue are intricately hand-carved pillars and sculptures of Buddhist deities, adding layers of spiritual and artistic depth. Embedded within the structure are thousands – “possibly millions,” Mulder said –of written prayers and relics, infusing the space with a palpable sense of sacredness. Adding to this profound atmosphere, the remains of Rinpoche, the visionary founder of the stupa, are interred within. This makes the stupa not only a monument to peace but also a revered resting place.

A TESTAMENT TO RESILIENCE

The Great Stupa has weathered challenges, most notably the 2020 Cameron Peak Fire. While 11 buildings at Drala Mountain Center were destroyed, the stupa emerged with only minor smoke

damage. The surrounding trails, adorned with Tibetan prayer flags fluttering among the aspens, remain a haven for wildlife and visitors alike who visit at the Northern Colorado landscape transitions from vibrant autumn foliage to serene snow-blanketed vistas, offering year-round beauty.

Even decades after its consecration in 2001, the stupa remains a work in progress. Mulder and his team plan to add over 5,000 square feet of murals and 60 new sculptures to further enhance the site. The center itself is a beacon of mindfulness, offering yoga, meditation and leadership retreats throughout the year.

The Great Stupa’s role transcends religious boundaries. As Mulder noted, its mission is fundamentally non-denominational: to inspire harmony, peace and tolerance. Visitors, whether spiritual seekers or curious travelers, leave with a shared sense of awe at this monument’s grandeur and purpose.

For those who visit, the Great Stupa is more than an architectural marvel – it is a reminder of humanity’s potential to create beauty and meaning, even in the most isolated mountain valleys.

The Great Stupa honors the founder of Drala Mountain Center, Chögyam Trungpa Rinpoche (above) and features a 24-foot golden Buddha statue, hand-carved pillars and thousands of written prayers.

Drala Mountain Center

James Gritz

COLORADO’S CALENDAR OF EVENTS

by ARIELLA NARDIZZI

RACE

PONY XPRESS GRAVEL GRINDER

APRIL 19 • COKEDALE

One hundred and sixty kilometers of gravel roads sprawl untouched outside of Cokedale just eight miles west of Trinidad, waiting for a flurry of bike tires to stir their dust. The morning sun rises over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains like a start flag to the race, not yet lifted above the horizon. Racers, seasoned and new, pull their tires to the start line, channeling a physical and mental fortitude like that of Pony Express riders who navigated these desolate lands in the 1860s.

The annual Pony Xpress Gravel Grinder is not your typical bike race. There are no cheering crowds, no support vehicles and no easy paths – just the raw beauty of the southeastern Colorado landscape and the test of grit against nature’s challenging terrain. The course winds through wooded

forests, rolling knolls and historic mining regions, all under the towering presence of Fishers Peak, a prominent spur of the Ratón Mesa.

With every pedal stroke, riders are transported back to a time when navigating this land was a matter of survival, not sport. The ever-shifting course beneath the bike transforms from dusty roads to unkempt trail and narrow, winding tracks that test handling skills for nearly 100 miles. Modern cyclists can rely on GPS and gear to navigate this unforgiving landscape while still facing the same fundamental challenge of endurance.

In the end, it’s not about crossing the finish line – it’s about riding with the spirit of the original Pony Express riders. coloradogravelgrinderchampionship.com.

WHERE TO EAT TRINIDAD SMOKEHOUSE

Feast on authentic, Southern-style barbecue, slow-smoked over hickory wood for up to 14 hours. Try the Trinidad Slopper, an open-faced burger with all the fixings and smothered in green chili sauce. 225 W. Main St., Trinidad (719) 846-7665.

WHERE TO STAY

TARABINO INN

Wrapping balcony terraces provide sweeping views of downtown Trinidad at this historic bed and breakfast from the Victorian era. 310 E. 2nd St., Trinidad. (719) 680-1241.

WHERE TO GO

A.R. MITCHELL MUSEUM OF WESTERN ART

The “Mitch” is home to iconic paintings featuring Native American artifacts, authentic portrayals of cowboys and Hispanic religious relics. It’s a significant venue for art, culture and history in southeastern Colorado. 150 E. Main St., Trinidad. (719) 846-4224.

Bike racers line up in Cokedale on April 19 to traverse 160 kilometers (99.4 miles) across a fine gravel course in northwest Las Animas County.

Mike Tranter

FESTIVAL

MOUNTAINFILM FESTIVAL

There’s an intangible magic to Telluride, a town hunkered deep within its box canyon. Since 1979, the Mountainfilm Festival, one of America’s longest running documentary film festivals, has embodied this magical spirit. It draws adventurers, activists and storytellers to a town where the mountains themselves are both backdrop and muse.

Over Memorial Day weekend, this festival showcases films that celebrate the intrepid, untamable human spirit. Heart-stopping adventure documentaries of mountaineering feats and thought-provoking films on social justice and environmental activism fill the big screen in vibrant pixels.

The festival’s roots go back to a time when Telluride was still finding its identity as a destination, transitioning from a gold and silver mining community to a ski town. The mountains, as always, were its heart. It was here that Lito Tejada-Flores and Bill Kees, the festival’s founders, began this cherished tradition.

They screened a handful of films showcasing the wildness of the world at the Sheridan Opera House. But Mountainfilm media wasn’t just about watching films. It was about living them. The founders took the audience on adventures of their own –climbing looming 14,000-foot peaks in the San Juan Mountains nearby, kayaking the San Miguel River and gathering in hearty conversation about how to preserve these wild spaces between screenings.

Forty-seven years later, the festival uses the power of art to inspire change through film, exhibits, talks over coffee and lively panels – but now, on a wider stage. Telluride’s streets, lined by Victorian-era pastel homes and red-brick buildings, fill with inspired thinkers, filmmakers, athletes, academics and activists from May 22 to 26. Surrounded by the jagged cliffs, ridges and peaks of Telluride, Mountainfilm urges audiences to not just watch but step into the wild themselves.

WHERE TO EAT THE BUTCHER & THE BAKER

This hip cafe features organic, local and handmade products. Artisanal, small-batch bakers craft crusty sourdough and flaky croissants. For lunch, the house roasted turkey sits between housemade ciabatta. 201 E. Colorado Ave. (970) 728-2899.

WHERE TO STAY THE HOTEL TELLURIDE

This European-inspired chalet is nestled in downtown Telluride with views of the rugged San Juans. Deep mahogany furnishings give every room in this hotel a luxurious feel, whether staying in a signature room or splurging on an exclusive suite. 199 N. Cornet St. (970) 369-1188.

WHERE TO GO

TELLURIDE HISTORICAL MUSEUM

The building of this museum itself is a relic of the past – a restored 1896 miner’s hospital. Exhibits tell of the powerful geographical forces that shaped the San Juans, the mining boom with interactive rock exhibits and the Indigenous Nuchu and Ute peoples. 201 W. Gregory Ave. (970) 728-3344.

OTHER EVENTS YOU MAY ENJOY

APRIL

Denver Jazz Fest

April 3-4 • Denver

Denver’s inaugural jazz festival celebrates Jazz Appreciation Month with 30 shows around the Denver-Boulder metro, downtown and historic Five Points District. Tap your toes and sway along to America’s only indigenous art form featuring Bill Frisell, Dianne Reeves, GhostNote, Omar Sosa, Charles McPherson and others. denverjazz.org.

Durango Bluegrass Meltdown

April 11-13 • Durango

At the Bluegrass Meltdown, jam bands have been pickin’ since 1995. This three-day festival gathers audiences around the city to jam out in public or at the historic Strater Hotel, Durango Arts Center, Wild Horse Saloon and Animas City Theatre. Swing in step at a barn dance and enjoy live music all weekend long. durangomeltdown.com.

Cardboard Classic

April 12 • Steamboat Springs Racers ready on their marks at Steamboat Ski Resort in the 43rd annual rite of spring. Homemade cardboard racing vessels line the start, made from glue, string, paint, duct tape, masking tape and balloons, as they prepare to race down Stampede into Gondola Square in a chaotic finish. 2305 Mt. Werner Circle. (800) 922-2722.

ROAR

2025

April 24-27 • Rangely

Off-roading vehicles roar through the high mountain desert of northwestern Colorado during this three-day event. Partake in a sunset ride to Kenney Reservoir, display your custom OHV at Rangely Automotive Museum, ride along the Wagon Wheel West trail system and enjoy a delicious shrimp boil. Parkview Elementary School, 550 River Road. (970) 675-5290.

Mountain Plover Festival

April 25-27 • Karval

Spot the mountain plover, among other wildlife like prairie dogs, big-horned owls and migratory birds, at the only event of its kind in the U.S. Local families offer up their homes for a welcoming stay and delicious meals. Mingle with farmers and ranchers while learning about short grass prairie conservation. Karval Community Building, 29085 County Road S. (719) 468-1364.

Music & Blossom Festival

April 30-May 4 • Cañon City

Spring is in full bloom at the 87th annual Blossom Festival, which celebrates a new harvest season. Held in various locations around downtown Cañon City, festival goers run a 5K along the Arkansas Riverwalk Trail, delight in snow cones, corn dogs and Polish sausages from local vendors, and enjoy a lively carnival, parade and school music competition.

MAY

Fruita Fat Tire Festival

May 2-4 • Fruita

One of the nation’s longest-running, non-race mountain bike events returns to Fruita for its 29th year. Take a test ride along the Bookcliffs Trail System from popular gear brands. Seminars, competitions and an additional demo expo will be held in downtown Fruita. (970) 858-7220.

Heritage Fair

May 3 • Fort Lupton

Step back in time to whatever era you please at Fort Lupton’s 19th annual Heritage Fair. Morris Dancers from the English Renaissance leap and dance in the square, while WWI reenactors fire blanks across the field. Step up to bat for an 1890’s baseball game or watch a traditional Vikings ritual instead. South Platte Valley Historic Park, 2001 Historic Pkwy. (303) 857-1710.

Duck Race Festival

May 3 • Estes Park

Hundreds of yellow, rubber ducks race down Fall River. Racers “adopt” a duck to support over 60 local charities, which have received over $3 million since the event began in 1989. The race’ starts at Nicky’s Resort. (970) 235-0052.

Colorado Marathon

May 4 • Fort Collins

Colorado’s most iconic marathon meanders downhill through Poudre Canyon near Fort Collins. Follow the shimmering curves of the Cache La Poudre River beneath high-rising canyon walls as spectators cheer loudly. comarathon.com.

11th Annual Car Show

May 4 • Sterling

Old car horns sound as grumbling motors overtake Sterling’s Main Street for the 11th annual car show. Old Chevy Corvettes, classic Ford Mustangs and

antique cars, from vintage to speedy sports racers, line the streets. Sterling Marketplace, West 2nd St. between Avenues A and B. (815) 626-8610.

Lamar Days Rod Run

May 16-17 • Lamar

Lamar’s big event of the year has been gathering crowds since before 1995. Admire vintage automobiles at the car show or try your hand at a poker run on motorcycle. Watch the parade and enjoy delicious concessions and vendor booths along the street. (719) 688-2288.

50th Annual Amache Pilgrimage

May 16-18 • Granada

This tribute honors the 50th anniversary since those of Japanese descent were imprisoned in southern Colorado’s plains during World War II. A pilgrimage ceremony, potluck and tours of the Amache site take place during Memorial Day Weekend. County Rd 23 5/10.

June 14-15, 2025

TRIVIA ANSWERS

Questions on pages 14-15

1 Avon

2 Skeleton

3 Country music (Country Jam Colorado)

4 Apex

5 Ward

6 b. Mississippi River (The Eads Bridge at St. Louis, Missouri)

7 b. Land of Magnificent Adventure, Loma

8 a. Como

9 c. Theodore Roosevelt

10 c. THC

11 False (First sentence is true; second sentence is incorrect. Tabor served from 1937 to 1946, while TABOR was passed into law in 1992, championed by Doug Bruce.)

12 True 13 True

14 False (Yuma is in Yuma County)

15 True

Page 14, Top Como Roundhouse

Page 14, Bottom Katie Uhlaender wins first place in the women’s Skeleton World Cup in 2006

Page 15 Historic Highlandlake Church near Mead, a filming location for Die Hard 2 Trivia Photographs

LAUNCHING POINTS FOR OUTDOOR EXPLORATION

RV PARKS

From full hookups to pancake breakfasts, Colorado RV parks can be downright luxurious

story

and photographs

by DAN LEETH

WHEN IT COMES to camping, my wife and I generally prefer to go rustic and set up in sites surrounded by nature. For that, we usually choose public campgrounds in state parks, national forests and BLM land. On occasion, we’ll treat ourselves to campsites in more luxurious, commercial RV campgrounds where long, pull-through sites come complete with water, electric and sewer hookups. There, we can enjoy flush-toilet restrooms with showers, coinop laundry facilities and shops stocked with all the necessary ingredients to make s’mores over a campfire. Besides convenience, commercial parks offer other handy advantages. Public campgrounds typically have a two-week stay limit, but one can generally book longer visits in commercial campgrounds, and it’s often possible to find last-minute

spaces available. Best of all, these parks frequently lie exactly where we need them, close to cities or popular recreation sites. Here are four Colorado RV parks I’ve enjoyed over the years.

GREAT SAND DUNES KOA JOURNEY ALAMOSA

One pleasant campground we recently discovered almost by accident is the Great Sand Dunes KOA off U.S. 160 in Alamosa. It was the 4th of July weekend, and we needed a place to camp for a few days before continuing to the Front Range. While nearby public campgrounds were totally booked, this KOA still had a nice patio site ready for us when we arrived.

With Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado Alligator Farm, UFO Watchtower, old Fort Garland and the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad all located nearby, we had plenty of activities to fill our days. Beyond these pleasant diversions, what I enjoyed most about camping here was just sitting back at our site and gazing at nearby Blanca Peak topped with afternoon storm clouds and bathed in the crimson light of sunset. For me, sights like that are what camping is all about. koa.com/campgrounds/alamosa. (800) 562-9157.

enjoyed the park’s weekend pancake breakfasts almost as much as I enjoyed being able to order Hunt Brothers pizza delivered right to our site. A family barbecue restaurant stands at the corner of the campground, and across the street sits Rookies Restaurant and Bar where we watched Bronco games on their big-screen TV. koa.com/campgrounds/denver-east. (303) 622-9274.

2 3

DENVER EAST KOA HOLIDAY STRASBURG

My wife and I have camped several times at the Denver East campground, including an extended stay while waiting for our Front Range home sale to close. It’s located off I-70 in the farm town of Strasburg, 39 miles east of downtown Denver. Grain silos towering next door amplify the campground’s rural tractor-land feel.

The park offers RV and tent campsites along with camping cabins and lodging disguised as Conestoga wagons. There’s a swimming pool, basketball court, bike rentals, horseshoe pits, pool tables, hayrides and outdoor movies. My wife

MONUMENT RV PARK FRUITA

Another commercial campground we’ve enjoyed is Monument RV Park , located off Colorado 340, a few miles north of the Colorado National Monument. We spent an entire frigid winter camping here years ago while waiting for our new home to be completed. With our trailer’s furnace running constantly, we went through 30-pound tanks of propane every week. For refills, all we had to do was place the empty tank in front of our site and a staff member would pick it up, fill the tank, charge our account and deliver it back.

Realtors like to talk about location, location, location, and the Monument RV Park’s location proved ideal. Hiking and biking trails lie nearby. Across the inter-

state, the town of Fruita offered shops, hardware stores and a small supermarket. Grand Junction lay a short drive beyond, and restaurants ranging from a Dairy Queen to a steakhouse stood within easy walking distance. monumentrvrestort.com. (970) 858-4405.

THE VIEWS RV PARK AND CAMPGROUND DOLORES

The Views RV Park and Campground off Colorado 184 near Dolores remains my favorite commercial campground in the southwestern corner of the state. This family-run park remains open from midApril through the end of October.

We discovered the Views when camping with friends who rarely take their Airstream anywhere that doesn’t feature full hookups. In addition to fully equipped RV sites, the Views offers glamping tents while secluded tent sites lay conveniently situated near the main bathhouse for campers packing their own shelters. With hiking and mountain biking trails winding through the 42-acre tree-studded property, the campground shows both beauty and adventure found on the road. theviewsrvpark.com. (970) 749-6489.

Equipped with full hookups and showers, RV Parks bring the comforts of home to life on the road. Long, pullthrough sites provide ample space to roll in and set up just in time to enjoy the sunset over Blanca Peak in Alamosa.

TUCKED IN THE San Luis Valley near Alamosa, between the San Juan and Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve seems an unlikely place to find beachy bliss. Yet, amidst the vast sandbox of powdery, shifting grains, a seasonal oasis appears when a dormant river awakens with the melting snow.

While Colorado is known for rugged mountains and rocky riverbanks, naturally occurring beaches are rare. Water, a scarce commodity in this lofty and landlocked state, is usually less apparent than the sands of the Great Sand Dunes. But every spring and summer, Medano Creek flows at the base of the dunes, nourishing surrounding foliage and transforming the area into a lush retreat.

Médano, a Spanish word meaning “sand dune” and pronounced “MED-ah-no,” gives the creek its name. No two visits to Medano Creek are exactly the same, as water flow and conditions depend largely on the season and winter snowpack.

The snowiest months, March and early April, lead into warm, sunny days that begin melting the snowpack. At first, Medano Creek trickles to the base of the dunes near the Dunes Parking Area. Snowmelt peaks between late April and early June, creating a phenomenon known as “surge flow.” During this time, waves sporadically form as water surges over ripples in the sand, allowing children to float down on inflatable toys or tubes when the flow is stronger.

The waves, which can reach a few inches to nearly a foot in height, are created by pulses of water rolling over the sand. If the

Colorado’s Best Beach

water is high enough, skim boarders glide across the surface using the same slick boards that thrill-seekers use year-round to descend the dunes. Medano Creek’s shallow waters, which average about a foot deep, make wipeouts relatively riskfree. Beyond the water, the sandy shores are ideal for sandcastle building.

At certain flow rates, ripples in the creek bed sediment migrate upstream instead of downstream – a rare phenomenon geologists call “anti-dunes.” In my image, captured shortly after sunrise during a surge flow, the undulating waves mirror the curves of the dunes above. Spotting anti-dunes in motion can be tricky, but

the ever-shifting water and sand create unparalleled photo opportunities.

Given its alpine water source, Medano Creek can feel frigid in the early morning, but it warms quickly under the sun. By the time 80-degree summer days arrive, the surrounding sand can reach a scorching 150 degrees, making sandals or slip-on shoes essential for exploring the beach.

The creek’s flow will last for several months, sustained by a strong winter snowpack. By mid-July, however, the water retreats toward the mountains and dries up unless bolstered by significant rainfall. The flow continues into September along the eastern edge of the dune near Castle Creek Picnic Area, accessible by high clearance 4x4 vehicle on Medano Pass Primitive Road or via hiking.

From spring through summer, Coloradans need look no further than the Great Sand Dunes for a day at the beach. Medano Creek’s waves may not rival those in Hawaiʻi or California, but it offers a rare chance to enjoy the beach – Colorado style.

Josh shot this photo of Medano Creek with a Nikon D300 and Sigma 17-35mm lens at 35mm, exposed at f/11, 1/50, ISO 200.

story and photographs by JOSHUA HARDIN