Cincinnati Magazine - July 2025 Edition

42 WAYS TO TAKE A BITE OUT OF THE QUEEN CITY

The Renaissance from Silverglades

Chicken Parm Sandwich from Young Buck Deli

PLUS

FREEKBASS IS AN UNEXPECTED TIKTOK STAR

BY DAMIAN DOTTERWEICH

PHOTOGRAPHER J.P. BALL REMAINS A MYSTERY

BY CEDRIC ROSE

Tuna Melt from Marx Bagels

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H M O N A D E R M AT O L O G Y

It’s Not All About the Face: A Series

We often focus on our face when it comes to anti-aging, but we don’t want to forget about areas such as our neck, chest, and hands, which can show similar signs of aging as our face, but are often neglected. This summer, boardcertified dermatologist Dr. Mona Foad will share how to prevent and reverse aging during a three-part series, “It’s Not All About The Face.”

In Part One, published in the June issue, we focused on how to rejuvenate and protect the neck and chest. In this issue we will look at the hands. Be sure to read Part Three in the August issue, where we will cover body rejuvenation!

monadermatology.com

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H M O N A D E R M AT O L O G Y

Part II: How to Rejuvenate Your Hands Even if we take great care of ourselves, we often forget about our hands, which, if neglected, are a tell-tale marker of aging.

Our hands are an area of skin that commonly shows signs of sun damage, including brown spots and precancerous changes, as well as signs of collagen loss, with crepe texture and volume loss. The good news is that there are many products and treatments available to rejuvenate the hands, and often, treating the hands is more affordable than treating other larger areas of the body.

Sun Damage & Skin Texture Products Skin care is an easy and affordable way to prevent damage and treat some of the effects of the sun. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen on your hands, especially when driving. Ultraviolet A rays can get through window glass and go deeper into the skin to cause more damage and aging. To further protect your hands from the sun’s damage, consider adding an antioxidant serum, and if brown spots are a concern, a skin brightener can be helpful. You may even want to consider purchasing a pair of driving gloves, which can be both stylish and functional for sun protection.

Treatments If you are already seeing the signs of sun damage on your hands, you may want to opt for a chemical peel, a laser treatment, or a light treatment. An IPL (Intense Pulse Light) or BBL (Broadband Light) is a great no-downtime way to treat brown spots and help even out skin tone on the hands.

Deeper damage may require a resurfacing laser, which has the added benefit of building collagen and treating sun damage and has been proven to actually decrease the risk of skin cancer formation. A word of caution with resurfacing lasers if you are considering this as an option: make sure your provider is an expert in laser resurfacing, because not all lasers are appropriate for treating the delicate skin on the back of your hands.

Hollowing & Visible Veins Collagen and elastin, which are important building blocks in our skin, decrease with age and sun exposure. The skin on the back of our hands is thinner than in other body parts, so we see the loss of collagen and elastin more readily in this area.

You might notice crepey skin that is not as elastic, as well as hollowing and more visible veins.

Products Consider applying products such as growth factors and peptides to the backs of your hands to slow down aging and build collagen. Retinoids, such as OTC retinols or prescription retinoic acids, can help prevent collagen loss and have the added benefit of stimulating cellular turnover. If adding in a retinol, start with a couple of days a week and slowly increase frequency to avoid irritation.

Treatments Fillers are a great, no-downtime way to treat the volume loss and soften the appearance of visible veins and tendons.

It is not painful and can instantly create a more youthful appearance. Resurfacing lasers are an effective way to address crepey skin and help rebuild lost collagen, but as mentioned above, make sure you are seeing someone who is a laser expert. My personal favorite resurfacing laser for the hands is the Fraxel Dual.

Quick Fixes to Dryness and Skin Texture As we get older, we lose our ability to make hyaluronic acid, and our skin becomes drier. Hand washing further aggravates this on the backs of our hands, leading to more pronounced dry skin. Consider using a barrier hand cream to protect your hands during frequent handwashing, and add a hyaluronic acid to help to boost your skins hydration in one easy step.

Consider mixing your hand cream with a hyaluronic acid serum for one easy step.

Not sure where to start? Schedule a consultation with one of the providers at Mona Dermatology! During your visit, you’ll discuss your top concerns and what products and treatments are right for you. You can schedule online at monadermatology.com or by calling 513.984.4800.

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BY DAMIAN DOTTERWEICH

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The veteran Cincinnati musician found a worldwide audience and steady income on TikTok. That Times Square billboard didn’t hurt either.

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The mystique of J.P. Ball, Cincinnati’s first Black photographer and Civil War–era abolitionist, endures.

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FOOD NEWS

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FRONTLINES

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Exploring Cincinnati through photo walks

18 / POP LIFE

The minds behind Ault Park’s fireworks

17 / DISPATCH

Behringer-Crawford’s 75th anniversary

22 / ESCAPE Family camp in the mountains

24 / GREAT ROOM Lytle Park Hotel’s Presidential Suite takes inspo from art

26 / HIGH PROFILE Cincinnati’s favorite clown: Softmaxplus

28 / DR. KNOW Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

30 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD Losing control isn’t always a bad thing

DINE

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CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

Mead making at Fabled Brew Works

80 / DINING GUIDE Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list HOME + LIFE

ON THE COVER photograph by MARLENE ROUNDS food styling by ALLISON HAMILTON

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

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CONTRIBUTORS

DAMIAN DOTTERWEICH

I PARKED ON THE STREET A COUPLE OF BLOCKS FROM HYDE PARK SQUARE ON A rainy Saturday and saw people huddled under a small striped awning at a tiny storefront. I tried to calculate whether I’d be able to fit under the awning with everyone else, then I remembered my umbrella in the trunk. So I took my place in the line waiting to enter Carl’s Deli.

This was my first-ever visit to Carl’s, though I pretended to be one of the regulars who clearly make this place a habit. I didn’t pick up and study the laminated sandwich menu, instead feigning indifference as I waited to order “the usual.” Finally stepping inside, I immediately thought, Where has this place been my whole life?

The answer, of course, is it’s been on Observatory Avenue my whole life and has been doing just fine without me. I was visiting Carl’s Deli and several other places for this month’s “Sandwich City” (page 34). My assignment at Carl’s was to try the hot and cold roast beef sandwiches.

I loved everything about Carl’s: the shop’s crowded, lived-in feel; piles of bread loaves and carryout containers; the hand-written chalkboard menu of 40-plus sandwiches; and the young people who smiled from behind the counter at regulars and first-timers alike.

I’d known the deli was famous and familyowned, but I just don’t get to Hyde Park very often, there are sandwich places closer to my house, yadda, yadda.

I know I’m fortunate to work at a media entity that takes me out of my comfort zone to try amazing restaurants, bars, delis, shops, festivals, and neighborhoods I’d otherwise not find on my own. I’m kind of a homebody, to be honest. I really hope Cincinnati Magazine content like “Sandwich City” broadens your horizons as well. That’s the mission that gets our staff excited about visiting, describing, and photographing our favorite sandwich spots or other highlights around town—to help you live your best life in Cincinnati.

One more thing I loved about Carl’s: the hot roast beef on a toasted baguette.

I’ve been back for it twice, so call me a regular.

J O H N F OX

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

1 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

ILLUSTR ATIO N BY L A R S LEE TA RU

In his days at radio station 97X, “live music superfan” Damian Dotterweich knew of Cincinnati’s rock bassist, Freekbass. These days, the two keep up in more domestic settings—like at the grocery store, where Freekbass filled Dotterweich in on his new avenue for sharing music with fans: TikTok. “As a non-TikTok user, I had no idea it could work for longer-form events,” says Dotterweich. “I think it’s cool that he can interact with fans in real time in a way that he can’t during in-person shows.”

ALLISON HAMILTON Allison Hamilton has been a food stylist since 2002, a job that requires making food look so delectable that customers have to have it now. We believe she did just that when styling a handful of our favorite sandwiches for this issue (just take a look at the cover!). According to Hamilton, the process involves sorting through the “pretty” pieces and building the sandwich layer by layer—so precise that she uses tweezers to make sure everything sits just right.

HAILEY BOLLINGER Hailey Bollinger is no stranger to photographing food—the restaurant and hospitality industry is half of her client base as a photographer. In her bold, rich photos for “Sandwich City” (page 34), Bollinger captures our favorite local restaurants and delis, from Carl’s Deli to La Torta Loca.

But what’s her favorite sandwich in the city? “It has to be the Jive A$$ Turkey from Young Buck Deli,” she says. “Sweet, savory, and the most delicious focaccia bread.”

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photo walks bring Cincinnatians toWORTH 1,000 WORDS Local gether one picture at a time.

—EMMA SEGREST

If you ever spotted a gaggle of photographers in Northside and wondered if paparazzi had descended on the city, you wouldn’t be far from the truth. But rather than photographing celebrities, this group—the Northside Neighborhood Photowalk (NSPW)—is documenting the neighborhood. There are no rules on what to photograph; they capture images of CONTINUED ON P. 18 longtime neighborhood residents, distinctive architecture, local wildlife, parks, and more.

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BCM’S DIAMOND ANNIVERSARY

The Behringer-Crawford Museum celebrates its 75th anniversary on July 5. Join the fun with a visit to its new exhibition, The Legacy of Behringer-Crawford Museum, highlighting significant moments throughout the Northern Kentucky museum’s history. bcmuseum.org

1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

SPEAK EASY

59 YEARS OF FIREWORKS X When Cincinnati Parks announced last year that the July Fourth Fireworks at Ault Park were to be permanently canceled, the community reacted. A fund-raising effort spearheaded

by Councilman Seth Walsh secured the tens of thousands of dollars necessary to fund the event and a partnership with Cincinnati Parks, and Ault Park declared the event was back—and back to stay. Brittany Speed and Anne Sesler—lead volunteers for their 15th and second years, respectively—sat down to discuss the event’s near-collapse and how it came back for good.

Ault Park Fireworks were canceled because it got “too big.” What was the breaking point? BS: It moved from a local neighborhood [event] to something the tri-state area is aware of. It’s been largely volunteerrun by community members, and as it’s grown in size, it’s now requiring the effort and attention of other city entities. The Ault Park Advisory Council had assumed fiscal responsibility and liability for it [in the past], and the event was too big for them to assume full responsibility anymore.

That’s when Anne and Councilman Walsh came around.

What had to happen to solve the issue?

AS: The city became a big partner in this, helping us utilize Cincinnati Parks. We help fund their staff to pull it off.

I think that [labor] was one of the big issues. It’s a big event to manage— making sure you order fireworks and you have food trucks and police officers—and Cincinnati Parks really have expertise in that area.

The Cincinnati Parks Foundation, which is a private foundation supporting parks, helps accept our donations. They lend some expertise in financial management and are a trusted source to hold the funds and make sure they’re wellmanaged.

Do you feel like the event is on a path to continued success in the years to come?

BS: I do. The toughest thing about doing this every year is finding the funds, ensuring that we have our core sponsors.

Now that Cincinnati Parks and the police have more established roles in the event, I think that helps alleviate some of the volunteer time, because the other big thing is just finding people who are willing to show up unpaid to help. — E M M A B A L C O M READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH ANNE AND BRITTANY AT CINCIN NATIMAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK FREELANCER

PH OTO G R A PH S ( TO P LEF T ) CO U R T E S Y B RIT TA N Y SPEED / ( TO P RI G H T ) BY LO U I S RID EO U T / (B OT TO M) ILLU S T R ATI O N BY B RIT TA N Y D E X TE R / I CO N BY WA R M WO R LD/S TO C K . A D O B E .CO M

NSPW founder Daniel Iroh occasionally as far as Aurora, Indiana. leads the way, taking pictures as Iroh and the other moderators share the he shares jokes and techniques. Iroh’s planned routes on Instagram in advance, lifelong passion for photography blosmaking it incredibly easy to join. somed into a successful side career The accessibility is what drew Erin Seccia to the group. A recent University photographing weddings, portraits, cityscapes, and more. of Cincinnati grad, Seccia wanted to say After moving to Northside in Januyes to doing more around the city and ary 2024, he began taking solo walks to with friends. She had practiced digital explore his new stomping ground and photography since she was 6 and wanted take pictures. The following March, Iroh to learn more about technique. The photo purchased a new Russian film camera walks provided the perfect setting. and, wanting to test it, extended an in“Being around a variety of photogvitation to a handful of fellow raphers who see the world photographers he knew to join differently than I do is rehim for a photo walk. ally inspiring,” says Seccia.

“To my surprise, a couple “It pushes me to learn new Say Cheese! of people said ‘yes,’ and three things and see the world in Interested in joining different compositions.” people showed up for that a photo walk? Find Iroh agrees that the divery first walk,” says Iroh. “It route announceversity of experience makes was such a fun time. When I ments on Instagram @northsideneighbor the photo walks more educaspoke to one of the guys who hoodphotowalk tional. “Photography can be showed up, I said, ‘I think I’m enjoyed as a solitary activgonna extend the invitation again next week.’ ” ity, but there is something to be said for Iroh began recruiting as many local just working with a group that broadens compositional skills and makes you see photographers as possible, and what started as a one-time meetup grew into the world differently,” he says. twice-weekly gatherings of 25 or more Indy Caramelli has only attended the people (its peak was 53). There’s no prewalks since the start of January, but has requisite for attending a photo walk—all long observed Iroh and NSPW on social experience levels and types of cameras media. Having taken photos since he are welcome, from 35 mm film to digital was 11, Caramelli was eager for a setting that offered a variety of subjects to to disposable.

No two walks are the same—each photograph. While the photography is what led him to join the walks, it was the week takes the photographers along a different route. And despite the group’s deep camaraderie that made him stay. name, the routes have expanded to “Community is necessary for art. I don’t think that art functions or positively neighborhoods beyond Northside as exists without community,” he says. well, usually within Cincinnati but

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about 25 minutes from the resort. But that’s one of the perks of camp—Jellystone Park is nestled quite literally on a mountain, surrounded by amazing hikes, tall trees, and fabulous views.

ESCAPE

1: Jellystone’s Treetop Mountain View cabin.

2: Blue Ridge Mountain Coaster.

3: Jellystone’s interactive water playground.

2

HOW TO STAY

1

FAMILY CAMP TAG ALONG WITH THE KIDS TO SUMMER CAMP—AND ACTUALLY HAVE A GREAT TIME. — A L E X A N D R A F R O S T

If you have a travel trailer, you know what to do. For everyone else, you can rent a variety of cabins—some are the original cabins that Girl Scouts used to stay in, as is the mess hall-turned-coolrestaurant. Coming with a bigger group? Up to three families can stay in a larger cabin featuring a hot tub and various game tables, like foosball. Staying solo with your own family? The tree top cabin overhangs a mountain cliff, and the regular cabin comes in various sizes. My own five kids stayed in the “Sycamore” cabin, with a loft with two large beds on the floor and a smaller bunk bed by the main room downstairs.

As a family recently retired from camper life, it was the next best thing with a bit more room.

THINGS TO DO

Reminiscing about childhood summers spent at sleepaway camp might bring to mind games of flashlight tag and friendship bracelet-making, bonfires with spooky storytelling and s’mores, mess hall food, and the summer bestie you might still hang out with today. These days, the rite of passage for many American kids is something that family-friendly, campstyle resorts are offering not just for children, but for the whole family.

HEADING TO BEAUTIFUL BOSTICK

If you’re from Cincinnati, you may have also had to Google Bostick, North Carolina. This is where Jellystone Park Golden Valley, our summer camp-style resort destination, was located in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains. The drive is surprisingly only six hours—unless you have kids, in which case it’s probably way more. Stock up on groceries for the week prior to arrival, as the nearest grocery store is in Forest City,

SIDE TRIP

STOP AT SEVIERVILLE This Tennessee resort is the perfect pit stop for larger groups. — A . F .

2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

Consider renting a golf cart, as there are many hills to navigate between activities, and the cart itself becomes part of the fun.

In the morning, we’d ride to the pool and water park area or do a bit of laundry in the laundromat while the kids played on a large jump pad and playground nearby.

Begin signing up for activities for the day in advance, such as rowing, the lake-top inflatable playground called a Wibit, laser tag, and a fullsize mountain coaster that

you operate yourself—slightly terrifying and super fun all at once. More serious hikers can head nearly a mile straight up through the woods to the wildfire watch tower for some exercise and a stunning view.

AN EFFORTLESS AGENDA

One of the beauties of a family summer camp is that you don’t have to plan the agenda for the day—the resort does itself. For example, you can meet the park’s mascot, Yogi Bear, for craft time, candy bar bingo, and dance parties. In the evening, it’s normal for a full-blown parade to go by your cabin with glow sticks on each cart and kids throwing candy. If you need more chill things to do, try out the fully stocked tennis, badminton, and pickleball courts or the neighboring sand volleyball and basketball courts.

A BREAK FOR THE PARENTS

This may sound like a kid’s paradise without much for the parents, but consider this: Late each afternoon, parents head to one of the two on-site taverns to grab drinks and hang out poolside or in the hot tub, while the kids burn up the last of their energy for the day. It’s summer camp, but with a margarita. There’s an ice cream stand and two dining options on the premises as well, if making dinner doesn’t sound that relaxing every night. After all, it’s meant to be a vacation for everyone in the family.

Jellystone Park Golden Valley campgoldenvalley.com

3

If your group is looking for a pit stop on the way down to North Carolina that will break your trip into a more manageable and leisurely two- or three-day drive, consider that you will head right through Sevierville, Tennessee. There, find Wilderness at the Smokies, a resort with lots of on-premise and kid-friendly activities, including indoor and outdoor waterparks and treehouse cabins with connected “treehouse rooms,” where four or more kids can take a break from the parents and play, hang out, and sleep. The cabins are a feature all on their own, complete with fireplaces, beautiful mountain views, and lots to do in the city. The pit stop is awesome for larger groups traveling together who don’t want to separate into different hotels on the way. wildernessatthesmokies.com P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y ( E S C A P E ) J E L LY S T O N E PA R K G O L D E N VA L L E Y / ( S I D E T R I P) W I L D E R N E S S AT T H E S M O K I E S

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GREAT ROOM

2

3

1

4

FLOWER POWER Lytle Park is known for its 1 colorful flowers. Accordingly, the suite’s art and wallcoverings feature dramatic botanical motifs, and are offset by softer hues like dusty blue, wine, and mauve.

LET THE LIGHT IN One of the biggest moves made 2 in the redesign of the suite was relocating a structural column to open the view from the entry to the feature window. This allowed light to flood the living room, dining room, and foyer.

2 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

PICTURE PERFECT The wall, fluted pilasters, and 3 picture molding are painted in Morning Fog by Sherwin Williams. On top hangs the room’s first showstopper, a spring scene in a brass floater frame, reminiscent of the art in the Taft Museum.

LAP OF LUXURY Luxurious presidential suite 4 elements include a custom reeded walnut credenza with brass accents and stone inlay top, a porcelain table lamp featuring local fauna, and a floor-length mirror.

PH OTO G R A PH BY D E V Y N G LI S TA

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE EXCLUSIVE

A

WINE

CLUB

WORTH

OPENING

FIT FOR A PRESIDENT A DOWNTOWN HOTEL USES ART IN AN APPROACHABLE WAY. —MICHELLE MASTRO

W

HAT WAS ONCE OLD CAN BE NEW

again. The Lytle Park Hotel in downtown Cincinnati takes this idea to new heights, blending its original 1909 structure with themes from the neighboring Taft Museum of Art, once the private home and art collection of Charles Phelps Taft and Anna Sinton Taft. Nowhere is this more evident than the recently renovated Taft Suite, which ushers in classic interior design choices while also paying homage to the Taft family by sharing artwork and pieces they would have displayed in their home-turnedmuseum.

The design of the suite is timelessly elegant, but also residential, comfortable, and approachable, balancing the art on display with the lived-in quality of a hotel room. It’s a luxurious yet homey vibe, not unlike what the Tafts might have felt— even while living among their coveted Rembrandts and rare Chinese porcelains.

“We liked the idea of creating a space that felt like a home with a collection of art on display,” says Emily Woods Weiskopf, lead designer and associate principal at ForrestPerkins, which designed the Taft Suite and other spaces in the hotel.

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HIGH PROFILE

HOT CLOWN SUMMER Local author Michael Sawan, known online as Softmaxplus, reflects on his goals after a year of clowning around on the streets of Cincinnati. — B R I A N N A C O N N O C K IF YOU’RE ONLINE, you may not be surprised by the man in a Casablanca Vintage suit, a New Yorker tote bag, and a full face of clown makeup. If you are surprised, meet Softmaxplus.

Before creating Softmaxplus, Michael Sawan was just looking for a creative way to market the books he’d authored.

He started out approaching people on the street around Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky to talk with them about his books, but realized he’d have to get bolder to really make a connection.

Armed with knowledge of the art of clowning from improv classes, Sawan donned his nowiconic clown makeup and noticed a shift. People were eager to engage and started to approach him on the street.

To be clear, Softmaxplus isn’t a character.

“When I’m out and about, I forget I’m wearing makeup. I’m just doing my thing,” he says.

The strategy was simple: consume a Miller High Life, grab a comically large microphone, and film short videos interacting with people in the city. The spontaneity was exciting, the videos started to gain traction online, and Sawan saw increased book sales during what he calls Hot Clown Summer—the true

beginning of Softmaxplus—in 2024.

As the days grew shorter, Sawan’s social media content evolved into a project of its own.

Using his improv experience, he’s started experimenting with sketch writing. Instead of going out with a beer in hand and no plan for his content, he now has a premise—like I Find Love in the Liquor Store, a recent sketch in which he finds love in Bellevue’s The Party Source.

And as his following grows (83,000 on Instagram and nearly 20,000 on TikTok), Sawan doesn’t consider himself an influencer. In fact, he’s focusing less on the numbers and more on creating. “I’ve been [creating] for a long time, and undoubtedly, it’s better to be making things people are paying attention to than just be in a vacuum,” says Sawan.

Now celebrating one year of Softmaxplus, Sawan hopes his longform comedy content on YouTube starts to gain traction, and he one day may even experiment with ticketed live shows.

While he’d like to reach audiences outside of Cincinnati, he finds the people in this city to be one-of-a-kind. “When you have diverse people, you end up getting all sorts of different ideas,” he says.

2 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

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Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster.

Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

DR. KNOW

First of all, a true researcher looking for real answers would never rely on a puny worthless trifle like Google. No, this mystery required a trip to the downtown Public Library and a trudge through Cincinnati’s Yellow Pages. Each phone book comes in a sturdy fold-open box tied with a thin bow, which triggered the Doctor’s childhood trauma of learning to tie his shoes. Nevertheless, he persisted, looking between 1985 and 1995. The history of United Dairy Farmers locations has confirmed—in living yellow—that a UDF store briefly existed at 12 Fountain Square Plaza between 1989 and 1992. Why didn’t it succeed? That question vexed the Doctor throughout all four hours of his retying every box.

Q+ A

My great-grandfather, a Cincinnati dentist, saved his old newspaper ads.

I have one from 1895 with a drawing of a smiling boy missing a tooth. The kid looks exactly like Alfred E. Neuman from Mad Magazine ! It can’t be a coincidence. Was Cincinnati the originator of this iconic image? —WHO ME WORRY DEAR WORRY:

Please settle a bet. My fiancée insists that a UDF store was formerly on Fountain Square during the late 1980s or early ’90s. I can’t find any evidence of this, even though I’m a highly accomplished Google searcher (and a big fan of UDF ice cream). Please set her straight.

—UNITED DAIRY FORMER

DEAR FORMER:

The Doctor wishes his contract with this magazine had included a clause wherein he earns a percentage of each “settle our bet” submission. He would be driving an S-Class Mercedes instead of a Toyota Camry. As for your fiancée, you should hope the bet doesn’t involve the number of carats on her ring, because you have lost.

2 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

Cincinnati can neither accept the honor nor deny the blame for Alfred E. Neuman and his usual gang of idiots. Yes, your great-grandfather’s ad from October 1895 shows a mop-topped, smiling, gaptoothed doofus who indeed bears a striking resemblance to the famous Mr. Neuman.

The caption says, “I had my tooth extracted at New York Dental Parlors!” Beside him is a swollen-jawed miserable-looking fellow who laments, “I didn’t.”

Your great-grandfather was one of a team of dentists at New York Dental Parlors, a national franchise with Cincinnati offices on Fountain Square. His employer’s ad was far from unique; several different types of businesses published numerous Alfred variations. So many, in fact, that when Mad Magazine was sued by someone claiming the image to have been created in 1914, subsequent research ILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU

revealed that Alfred’s fractured grin had appeared in countless ads and posters going back to the 1800s. No one could solidly confirm his origin.

Case dismissed.

Sorry, but Cincinnati did not invent Alfred E. Neuman. We’re just the city responsible for the Charmin Toilet Paper Bears.

Now that Pete Rose has left us and he finally seems headed for baseball’s Hall of Fame (where he belongs!), will Google Maps finally let us see Pete’s boyhood home? His entire street is still inaccessible. You attempted to get this fixed sometime back. Please update us. —STEAL HOME

FOLLOW US 2,306

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DEAR STEAL:

The Doctor can boast of resolving several Cincinnati mysteries and injustices. He has fearlessly debunked historical myths, corrected official signs, helped readers find lost ancestors, and on occasion has approached profundity. But regular readers know that the Doctor also, now and then, fails to live up to his mission.

One such embarrassment concerns fixing Google Street View, which normally allows anyone to “drive along” any street and see its buildings. Some homes may be blurred, but the streets themselves are navigable. Not so, however, with Braddock Street in Cincinnati; you can’t get there from anywhere. Is it because just one home on that street was where Pete Rose grew up? Is this fair to the block’s other residents?

The childhood streets of other famous Cincinnatians aren’t blocked, so why is that one?

The Doctor has pestered Google Maps over this issue since 2019, with no response. He is beginning to suspect that his call isn’t important to them. Maybe after Cooperstown gives in—as of press time, they have not—Google will.

@CINCINNATIMAGAZINE J U LY 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 2 9

WE LCO ME TO MIDDLEHOOD

BY JUDI KETTELER

We Could Be Heroes

LEARNING HOW TO GIVE UP CONTROL WHILE NEVER GIVING UP ON LOVE.

I

I’VE BEEN BINGE-WATCHING THE SHOW 24. YOU MAY KNOW THE PREMISE: EACH SEASON IS one day long, with every episode representing one hour of the day, as federal agent Jack Bauer (Kieffer Sutherland) rushes to save the world from catastrophe. The show came out in 2001. Back then, I had zero interest in watching such a spectacle of a program, with its vision of the world as mostly dangerous and hostile.

Now I’m drawn to it, completely against my better judgment. It’s so ridiculously violent. I fast-forward through torture scenes and play word games on my phone when everyone starts shooting. I usually lose track of the convoluted plot around the 15th or 16th hour. I know not to get attached to characters, because the show just kills them off. You also can’t trust anyone, and the show has a serious overpopulation of red herrings.

There is only one reason I keep watching, and that’s the unwavering belief I have that 3 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

Jack Bauer is going to save the day. Sure, he’s going to get stabbed and shot and electrocuted and have to parachute off a plane carrying a nuclear bomb before it crashes into the desert, but he’ll survive. He’ll storm a compound guarded by 20 armed men and come out on top. He’ll get the evidence, the code, the schematics (so many schematics!), and the names of the bad guys. No matter how desperate it seems, he never, ever gives up.

I hate most everything else about the show except that minute-by-minutechronicling of someone not giving up.

As I write this, I’m staring at the white board in my office, on which I’ve written, “Do not give up.” It’s a note to remind myself not to give up on the novels I’m trying to sell, even though the process is testing every dimension of my patience. I say it to myself over and over as I work with my drafts, e-mail my agent, and sketch out the next novel I want to write. Don’t give up, you clever girl, and it will happen.

It means something else, too. There is a person in my life who is using substances and struggling with mental health. “I will never, ever give up on you,” I say to them often. But it wasn’t until I started going to Nar-Anon meetings that I realized even Jack Bauer can’t fix this situation.

NAR-ANON IS A 12-STEP PROGRAM FOR friends and family members affected by someone else’s addiction. Before my first meeting, what I’d known of 12-step programs was mostly from movies and television: Characters talking about “going to meetings” and scenes of people sitting in a circle and talking about their rock-bottom moments.

My husband and I showed up at the first meeting with jittery legs and question marks on our faces. We were welcomed warmly, and it didn’t take long to learn the cadence of how meetings went. First, a gentle reminder that we weren’t there to try to change anyone else, only ourselves.

Then a reading of some passages from various materials, followed by a few minutes of journaling and an opportunity to share.

Anonymity is a key tenant, so I can’t tell you anything about anyone else. But I can tell you about me. And at my first meeting, when it was my turn to speak, I said, “I kind of forgot 12-step things were all about ILLUSTR ATIO N BY D O L A SU N

WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD a higher power.” Several people smiled knowingly.

I’d certainly heard the serenity prayer before, and I knew there was a strong spiritual element. So I hadn’t exactly forgotten.

It’s more that I was hoping there was a more concrete answer. Something that would make the person I love who is struggling

first three steps: Admit you’re powerless over the addict, believe in a power greater than yourself, and turn the problem over to that higher power. The 12-step approach is predicated on surrender, which is why it doesn’t work for everyone.

But could this idea work for me, the woman who solves problems and fixes

BEING A DOER, A NOT-GIVER-UPPER, A NARRATIVE-MAKER WORKS IN ALL AREAS OF LIFE. REALLY WELL, IN FACT. EXCEPT, THAT IS, THE ONES INVOLVING OTHER PEOPLE. just stop. Some secret that had been hiding in a dusty church basement all along.

Turns out that the group isn’t about fixing people or solving their problems.

It isn’t about saving them. It isn’t about being the hero. It’s actually kind of about, well, giving up. Those are essentially the

sentences for a living? Could the way toward not giving up on a person start with giving up? If I was to turn the problem over to a higher power, I would have to get Jack Bauer out of my head. And as I think we’ve established, Federal Agent Bauer doesn’t go gently into the night.

IN MY TWENTIES, WHEN I WAS STILL new to yoga and before I’d taken 500-plus classes, an instructor said to me, “Don’t try hard. Never try hard.” It was the dumbest thing I’d ever heard, and I never went back to his class again.

On the first date I had in 2002 with my now-husband, I told him I had just been laid off from my job and was going to be a freelance writer. He tried to talk me out of it. Watch me defy the odds, dude, I thought.

He’s been a stay-at-home dad since 2008, and I’ve supported us with freelancing.

And someday soon, if I don’t give up— which I won’t!—I’ll have my novels published. Some aspiring writer will ask how I did it, and I will say, “I just didn’t give up.”

The key to life, I will tell them, is to set your mind to get the result you want, and if someone thinks you can’t do it, that’s all the more motivation.

Being a doer, a not-giver-upper, a narrative-maker works in all areas of life. Really well, in fact. Except, that is, the ones

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PH OTO G R A PH BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

involving other people.

During a long vent session, I was telling my friend, Emily, about this situation.

How it seemed like nothing was ever going to change, how I knew I couldn’t control things but didn’t actually know what to do with my arms and legs while I sat there unable to find the fix for a terrible situation.

She said, “Do you know the parable of the Chinese farmer?”

It’s a 2,000-year-old story that goes like this: A farmer and his son relied on their trusty horse to help tend their fields.

One day, the horse ran away. “What terrible luck that your horse ran away!” the farmer’s neighbors all said. The farmer shrugged his shoulders and said, “Bad luck? Good luck?

Who knows?”

A day or so later, the horse came back with two wild horses following him. “What great luck that you have two more horses!” the neighbors said. The farmer again shrugged. “Good, bad, who knows?”

The farmer gave one of the untamed

horses to his son to train. While riding the horse, the son was thrown off and broke his leg. “What awful luck that he can’t help you with farming!” the neighbors said. And again, the farmer did his good-or-bad-whothe-hell-knows shrug.

Then the Emperor’s army showed up.

They were conscripting the oldest son from every family into the army. When the soldiers came to the farmer’s house, they saw the son lying in bed with his broken leg and left him behind. As the neighbors tearfully bid goodbye to their sons, they said to the farmer, “What good luck that your son didn’t have to go.” He gave them the same reply again, “Good? Bad? Who knows.”

As my friend told me the story, I remembered I’d heard it before from a therapist at the inpatient unit where my loved one stayed last year. If I haven’t mentioned it yet, meaningful coincidence is my higher power. Hence, this little parable has been with me every day for a while. Sure, it’s

a story about silver linings, but it’s also about not committing to a narrative, letting events unfold, and letting go of the idea that you’re the one pulling the strings.

What a cruel thing for a writer to have to surrender her narrative. What a Step 3 mindfuck. But, also, all that’s left to do.

THE OTHER NIGHT, I RECEIVED A HEARTstopping, middle-of-the-night call from an emergency room nurse at Mercy Clermont.

My loved one was being treated there, not exactly because of substance use, but it was a contributing factor. I made the long trek out State Route 32, thinking of horses and luck and nuclear bomb codes. When the hospital’s sign came into view, I laughed out loud at the name of the street where I needed to turn: Bauer Road. You just can’t make this shit up.

I left Jack and my narrative gifts in the car and went inside to meet the moment, maybe understanding clearly for the first time how to give up while never giving up.

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PH OTO G R A PH BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

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by Emma Balcom, Brianna Connock, John Fox, M. Leigh Hood, Claire Lefton, Aiesha D. Little, Tiffany Luckey, Garin Pirnia, Amanda Boyd Walters, and J. Kevin Wolfe

THE RENAISSANCE FROM SILVERGLADES

CHICKEN PARM SANDWICH FROM YOUNG BUCK DELI

LOBSTER ROLL FROM UNCLE LEO’S

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FoOd styling by Allison Hamilton

PULLED PORK FROM BEE’S BARBECUE

TUNA MELT FROM MARX BAGELS THE MOLINE FROM MORSEL & NOSH

LOBSTER ROLLS. TUNA MELTS. Muffalettas. ƱȬ ǹƱɼƒȐ.

THE QUEEN CITY HAS NEARLY EVERY TYPE OF SANDWICH YOU’LL EVER NEED. P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

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WHICH ’WICH IS WHICH? Getting philosophical about sandwiches. By M. LEIGH HOOD If you want to

spark drama at the next family dinner, SKIP THE POLITICS and k,

Is a hot dog a sandwich?

Strangers love to fight about it online, and in a city where many call a coney their favorite sandwich, the issue becomes a matter of honor. A Cincinnati-style chili coney is an icon of regional pride, complete with a colorful history and rival chains, but despite its many virtues, does it qualify for the name of “sandwich?”

According to Merriam-Webster, a sandwich is “two or more slices of bread or a split roll having a filling in between.” It’s appropriately vague for a clinical definition, but this is only the debate’s opening move.

Definitions are like large sandwiches: The harder you hold them, the more falls out.

Being technically accurate doesn’t make Merriam-Webster culturally accurate or practically useful. It does answer the ageold contention over bread, though. Split rolls count, which you already know deep in your soul if you appreciate a po’boy (one of America’s first named sandwiches), a bánh mì, or a hoagie. Subway sells sandwiches.

No one contends that without an agenda.

Part of the issue is the word’s age and spread. The first written use appears in an English historian’s journal describing workers’ meals and equating a sandwich with a bit of cold meat. In 1772, a tonguein-cheek travel book called A Tour to London; Or, New Observations on England, and Its Inhabitants by Pierre Jean Grosley sparked the popular origin story of a man at a gambling table ordering a piece of beef between two pieces of bread so he could eat without leaving the table, putting down his cards, or making life easy for cheaters

by staining the deck with grease marks.

Gossip linked the tale to the fourth Earl of Sandwich, John Montagu.

The word already existed, but this story may have cemented the sandwich’s reputation as a convenience food. It was something to eat while working, a handheld meal. A generously dressed coney sometimes fails this standard, but everyone knows an open-faced sandwich is a knife-and-fork affair without questioning its title. Eat a cheeseburger with a knife and fork and see what happens.

A 2015 National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey report revealed nearly half of all Americans eat a sandwich on any given day. That accounts for a huge variety of diets, lifestyles, and cuisines. It’s worth noting that the study, which focused on scientific data related to nutrition, included both hot dogs and burgers. This backs up the dictionary, and it’s fair to say that anything meeting its criteria is a sandwich.

That said, a whale and a chinchilla are both mammals, but that qualification means nothing outside of a textbook. Most of us have only interacted with sandwiches for practical purposes, and any sandwich noteworthy enough to appear in a textbook concerns me on principle.

The name of a meal you hold in your hands (and heart) will vary, but if you want to define it, consider how you’d ask for a specific species. A split bun with pulled pork is a pulled pork sandwich. Two pieces of bread held together by melted cheese is a grilled cheese sandwich.

A hot dog is a filling held in bread, but you wouldn’t ask for a frankfurter sandwich at the neighborhood cookout. You’d ask for a hot dog. Just as the term sandwich has taken on a personality beyond clinical definitions, so have some popular fillings.

The National Hot Dog and Sausage Council has released multiple statements, blogs, and infographics explaining how a hot dog is not the same thing as a sandwich.

It has its own folklore, the two terms aren’t interchangeable, and it holds a unique cultural niche.

And so, we come full circle and return to our beloved coney. What is a sandwich in Cincinnati, and does a coney fit the bill?

Who understands the intricacies of language and the meals it describes better than the Queen City’s two biggest chili chains?

Both Skyline and Gold Star Chili serve two types of dishes in sandwich buns.

One, of course, is the great and powerful coney. The other is a chili cheese sandwich. A chili sandwich has everything a coney does minus the hot dog, suggesting the humble tube-steak itself—not the bread around it or the chili atop it—makes or breaks the argument.

Ultimately, a sandwich is a minimally defined word holding about half of America’s lunches together. No scientist or industry professional can change your faith in a hot dog’s place on the roster or your rejection of hamburgers as a sandwich subgroup.

The experts, however, have spoken.

EARL of SANDWICH

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ROAST BEEF Carl’s Deli

2836 OBSERVATORY AVE., HYDE PARK; 118 W. ELDER ST., OVERTHE-RHINE, (513) 871-2275, CARLSDELI.COM

If you’re hungry for a delicious roast beef sandwich, you have two excellent choices here: the No. 1 (roast beef, Havarti, lettuce, tomato, and mayo on a croissant) and the No. 21 (hot roast beef, melted provolone, onion, lettuce, tomato, and mayo on a crunchy baguette). Hot or cold? You can’t go wrong at Carl’s. Take home a small tub of macaroni salad and a cookie from Triple R Cookie Jar for dessert, and you’re good to go.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HAILEY BOLLINGER

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TUNA MELT

Pulled Pork

LOBSTER ROLL

Marx Bagels has been handmaking hot bagels for Cincinnatians since 1969. The Queen City location (the shop also owns a spot in Columbus) features more than 30 flavors of sweet and savory bagels, any one of which you can choose for your sandwich. Take, for example, the Tuna Melt, mild tuna mixed with bits of carrot for a pleasant crunch, topped with your choice of cheese, lettuce, tomato, and onion, and a pickle spear on the side. 9701 Kenwood Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 891-5542, marxbagels.com

Pulled pork sandwiches often strive for quantity over quality, opting to bowl you over with volume and sides instead of focusing on deliciousness.

Bee’s Barbecue makes a stunning version with thick chunks of marinated, shredded pork. Add a layer of cole slaw on top for nice sweetness and chill. Don’t miss the baked beans, a spicy gumbo of five different beans, onions, sweet peppers, jalapeños, and spices.

1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-2337; 5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337, beesbar becue.com

You wouldn’t expect the best lobster roll in town to be served in a dive by a bartender wearing a cowboy hat, but that’s the magic of Uncle Leo’s. Every Saturday—also known as Saloon Saturday—owner Leroy Ansley slings Maine-style lobster rolls packed with knuckle and claw meat, red bell pepper, lemon, green onions, celery, capers, and crispy onions to the twang of country music. Weekends are even better when you snag one of these. 1709 Race St., Over-theRhine, (513) 381-2403, uncleleosdive.com

Marx Bagels

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

Bee’s Barbecue

Uncle Leo’s

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HOT BROWN Otto’s

If the weather’s right, the staff at Otto’s will throw open the front windows, allowing the chatter of sidewalk diners to float in on the breeze. It’s a lovely accompaniment to the hot brown, a Kentucky staple that arrives with the béchamel bubbling hot. Beneath a broiledbrown blanket of cheddar cheese that breaks with a satisfying crunch, ham, turkey, and bacon lie atop thick slices of sourdough bread that have soaked in some of the sauce. Each luxurious bite blends sweet and salty. And the fried green tomato on top? A perfect grace note. 521 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-6678, ottosonmain.com

THE RENAISSANCE Silverglades Delicatessen

After more than a century in operation, it’s no surprise that Silverglades has mastered the art of chicken salad. Its signature walnut grape version is the star of one of its most popular sandwiches: The Renaissance. A scoop of chicken salad is served over fresh lettuce, tomato, and onion, in between two halves of a light and flaky croissant with a kosher pickle spear on the side, the perfect balance of sweet and savory, fruity and nutty, light and delicious.

236 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 361-0600, silvergladesdeli.com

FRENCH DIP

French Crust Bistro It’s a classic for a reason. Tender slices of beef.

Richly caramelized onion. A little umami from Swiss cheese. The mellow sting of horseradish.

Out Vegetarian and vegan options for your plant-based diet.

—BRIANNA CONNOCK

A chewy baguette. And a cup of au jus on the side for dipping. French Crust’s version hits all the right notes, delivering a hearty but not overwhelming meal. Pair it with a salad, fruit, or soup and you’ve built a lunch you can feel good about. 1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 4553720, decavelgroup.com/locations/findlay/ french-crust-bistro

SYRIAN CHICKEN SHAWARMA

Baladi Restaurant & Bakery Fans of Middle Eastern cuisine can find one of the most authentic Syrian street food dishes just off UC’s campus. Baladi makes its chicken shawarma the traditional way, giant rotisserie and all. Pieces of meat are carved off and placed on housemade flatbread with pickles and a creamy garlic sauce before being pressed to crispy perfection. 3307 Clifton Ave., Clifton, (513) 221-7222, baladirestaurantbakery.com

Pastrami and Swiss Wyoming Meat Market

The friendly folks at this working butcher shop handle large cuts of beef, poultry, lamb, and other locally sourced meat, but they’ll gladly stop and make you a sandwich if you’re hungry. We suggest the potent pastrami and Swiss on dark rye bread with Thousand Island dressing. Or maybe go Reuben style and add sauerkraut. And if you’re across the river, give Wyoming’s sister deli, Rekas, a try in Covington.

513 Wyoming Ave., Wyoming, (513) 821-2200, wyomingmeatmarket.org; 401 Scott St., Covington, (859) 415-0091

BUFFALO CHICKEN RANCH

VILLAGE REVIVAL

With an entirely vegan menu, NYC-deli inspired Harmony Plant Fare knows its way around a plant-based sandwich. The small-batch vegan meats are made of high-protein flour, beans, and spices, then roasted to mimic the flavor and texture of deli meats. Soy curls, Buffalo sauce, and cashew ranch pair with celery, red onion, and lettuce for a delightful crunch between two toasted pieces of Allez Bakery sourdough bread.

1801 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 818-2839, harmonyplantfare.com

This Northside-based eatery puts an emphasis on healthy, locally sourced ingredients, and the Village Revival is full of them. Served on toasted Sixteen Bricks sourdough bread, the bright flavors of roasted red peppers and pepita pesto balance with the housemade seitan (meat substitute made of wheat gluten), and provolone and goat cheese deliver the final notes. A vegan option is also available upon request. 4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com

HARMONY PLANT FARE

MELT REVIVAL

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SHRIMP PO’BOY Swampwater Grill

3742 KELLOGG AVE., EAST END, (513) 834-7067, SWAMPWATERGRILL.COM

While this Cajun joint offers five different variations of the po’ boy, we like the traditional version best. French bread is stuffed with lettuce, tomato, and a mountain of fried shrimp. Feel free to dress it all up as you please with a side of creamy remoulade and a slice of lemon to balance out the richness of the shrimp and sauce.

PESTO AND RICOTTA

ROOTED JUICERY

Despite its name, Rooted Juicery serves up much more than juice, with a full plant-based menu of breakfast, salads, and sandwiches. The pesto and ricotta combines basil pesto, balsamic, tomatoes, vegan ricotta cheese, avocado, arugula, and sprouts, which come together into a blend of rich and light flavors. Even if you’re not vegan, the creamy, cashew-based “ricotta” is sure to please. 3010 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 351-2900, 1218 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 653-3056, rootedjuicery.com

NASHVILLE HOT MUSHROOMS

YOUNG BUCK DELICATESSEN Young Buck may be known for its meats, but don’t miss out on this one-of-a-kind vegetarian offering.

The fried-to-order mushrooms are thin, perfectly crispy, and coated in a sweet and spicy hot chile oil.

Topped with mayo and pickles and served on soft, housemade focaccia, it’s a plant-based dupe of the classic Nashville fried chicken sandwich. This handheld requires lots of napkins after eating, but we can promise you it’s worth it. 1332 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 287-7867, youngbuckdeli.com

ROASTED VEGGIE BABA THE PICKLED PIG

The Pickled Pig may be known for its smoked meats, but it also specializes in fermented foods, so it makes sense that the pickles on this sandwich are next level.

Served on ciabatta from Allez Bakery, marinated cucumbers and a tahini lemon dressing (roasted eggplant, zucchini, peppers, lemon juice, tahini, olive oil, and seasoning) create a powerful, zesty combination.

Be warned, the cucumbers pack a tart, vinegar-filled punch that is unlike any other. 645 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 748-7114, smokedandpickled.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY HAILEY BOLLINGER

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FRIED BOLOGNA BLT

Libby’s Southern Comfort

35 W. EIGHTH ST., COVINGTON, (859) 261-3106, LIBBYSSOUTHERNCOMFORT.COM

This is the very definition of a two-fisted sandwich. Layers of pimento cheese, spring mix, green tomato, and fried egg dressed with a Carolina-style house barbecue sauce surround the star of this show: thick slices of smoked bologna. The smoke adds deep, down-home flavor that shines against the rich egg and cheese. And the grilled sourdough from Sixteen Bricks stands up to it all. You might need a to-go box, and you’ll definitely need more napkins.

PHOTOGRAPH BY HAILEY BOLLINGER

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fun fact!

Izzy’s SUB-LIME Jeff Osterfeld opened Penn Station Restaurant in downtown Cincinnati in 1985. He began franchising a quick-service version of the dining concept—Penn Station East Coast Subs—three years later.

TURKEY BREAST SANDO Allez Bakery

There’s no better summertime lunch than a turkey sandwich. This take on the classic includes a swipe of sunflower pesto mayonnaise, crispy shredded lettuce, marinated tomatoes, and a pile of thinly sliced turkey breast served between two sizable pieces of rosemary focaccia bread. Paired with an ice-cold soda and a bag of chips, it’s the perfect lunch for lounging by the pool, picnicking in the park, and all other means of summer relaxation. 1208 Main St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4246, allezbakery.com

CHICKEN PARMESAN Young Buck Deli

The chicken parm is a standout among hot sandwiches, but plan ahead on your order because it’s only served on Fridays. Served on housemade focaccia bread, the sandwich features a fried truffle nugget chicken breast, flavorful marinara sauce, and fresh Stracciatella cheese. Topped with basil, red pepper flakes, and a sprinkle of parmesan, it’s a massive and mouthwatering sandwich that will keep you coming back week after week. 1332-C2 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 287-7867, youngbuckdeli.com

MUFFALETTA Silver Ladle

This Midwestern take on the classic New Orleans sandwich will have you feeling like you’re eating in the heart of Louisiana. A heap of hot and spiced meats—capicola, salami, and pepperoni—is topped with Swiss cheese, mixed field greens, and a smear of flavorful olive relish. Served in a fluffy telera roll, it’s filling enough to power you through a mid-day slump or reward yourself after a long day. 580 Walnut St., Ste. W700, downtown, (513) 834-7650, silverladle. com

You can still get the Worlds Greatest Reuben after more than 120 years. By J. KEVIN WOLFE Back when Izzy Kadetz still ran his ask what makes the sauce so special, but I did ask for extra. Maybe I broke protoplace downtown, a friend used to go col by dipping bits of the potato pancake in regularly for a heaping helping of into that sweet, tangy, pinkish stuff, and abuse. Izzy would get this smirk on his face and say, “Naw, you don’t want mmmm, just forgot about asking dumb that today.” Or he’d get this disgusted questions at that point. face as he looked her up and down, “No Like Cincinnati Chili, Izzy’s ReuReuben for you. You’ve been putting on ben is truly iconic. You hear people say weight. You’ll get the matzo ball soup you have to go to New York City, the today instead.” And of all the times she birthplace of the Reuben, to get the real went there, Izzy never charged her the thing. But there’s argument the Reuben was actually created in Omaha, so same price twice.

You could wonder about how he it’s possible that there is no “real thing” stayed in business, but the rude mouth in New York. And Izzy’s father opened was accompanied by a big heart and irfor business in 1901, over a decade beresistible sandwiches. For years, Izzy fore the history books say the Reuben was born. So did the Kadetz family accharged on how you were dressed or what he thought you could pay on that tually invent the Reuben? I think if Izzy particular day. The man himself is long were still around today, he’d just give gone, but overstepping the bounds to you that smirk. care about customers at Izzy’s lives on.

As does his timeless menu. You can still get the World’s Greatest Reuben that my friend couldn’t. I asked the waitress why it’s “the World’s Greatest.” She gave me that “duh” look and sniped, “Because it says so izZy on the menu.” k adetZ When your sandwich is plopped down in front of you, you get a whiff of the maltiness of fresh rye bread, grilled or toasted at your request. Between those two slices are imported Swiss cheese melted over the Best Tasting Corned Beef in the Midwest, and honest-to- Gott sauerkraut, all topped with Izzy’s special sauce. I didn’t dare

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY IZZY’S / ICON BY STEF HADIWIDJAJA

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BANH MI THIT NUONG Vietnamese Noodles & Sandwiches

West Chester is the location of an unassuming spot serving some of Greater Cincinnati’s best bánh mìs. Once you try the grilled pork version, you’ll understand why. The baguette is textbook-perfect: crisp and shattery, yet light and airy.

Inside, tender, smoky-sweet pork meets crunchy carrots, jalapeños, cucumber, and a sprinkle of cilantro. Every bite is a balancing act of savory, sweet, sour, and spicy. 8990 Princeton Glendale Rd., West Chester, (513) 863-6100, vietnoodleswestchester.com

L ITALIANO PANINI VV Italian Experience

Sometimes, simplicity is best.

Exhibit A: VV’s L’Italiano panini.

Pressed to a golden crisp, it balances imported prosciutto cotto, buttery provolone cheese, and creamy mayo on ciabatta bread that crackles effortlessly with each bite. Paired with a glass of Chianti from the restaurant’s impressive wine list, you’ve got a mini vacation to Florence without leaving the Queen City. In a word: perfezione.

1026 Delta Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 485-4007, vvitalian.com

MARIAH CURRY Tickle Pickle

While Tickle Pickle is primarily known for its burgers and shakes,

don’t sleep on the grilled chicken.

It’s wondrously savory—the goat cheese and housemade curry ketchup cut right through the caramelized onions’ subtle sweetness—rounded out by spinach and cucumbers on a pretzel bun. With these ingredients, the sandwich truly, ahem, sings.

4176 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 954-4003; 915 N. Ft. Thomas Ave., Ft. Thomas, (859) 815-8085, ordertickle.com

CHOPPED CHEESE

FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH The Eagle

Daylily

This classic New York bodega creation is a mess in the best way.

Ground beef, onions, and American cheese are cooked together then added to a hoagie bun with lettuce, tomato, banana peppers, and a special sauce. It’s like a sloppier cheeseburger but even more flavorful since the onions and cheese are cooked with the meat. Don’t forget to ask for a pickle. It’s a must. 3751 Eastern Ave. #2, Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-1039, daylilydeli.com

1342 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 802-5007, EAGLERESTAUR ANT.COM

It must be stated for the record that we don’t know how to quit this sandwich. Ever since the first bite over a decade ago, we still think about its juicy chicken breast, brined overnight and fried to perfection. Add that not-too-runny coleslaw, spicy mayo, and house pickles, and we dare you not to have it on your mind 10 years from now, too.

ITALIAN GRINDER New England Grinders

This Italian grinder feels like a yummy hidden gem. Layered with pepperoni, ham, capicola, salami, provolone, onions, and banana peppers, and drizzled with zesty Italian dressing inside a flaky, toasted baguette that’s just the right amount of chewy, it’s a flavor-packed handheld that feels straight out of an old-school East Coast deli. 9963 Princeton Glendale Rd., West Chester, (513) 874-7111, newenglandgrinders.com

DOUBLE TAKE Legend has it that Harry Sarros, a Greek immigrant and owner of the Marathon Inn in Silverton (now Silverton Café), invented the double-decker sandwich around 1930.

PHILLY CHEESESTEAK

Cincy Steak and Lemonade This place might be known for its sweet and refreshing lemonade slushes, but insiders know the real star is the Philly cheesesteak. It’s everything you want in a lunchtime (or late-night) bite: a generous portion of thinly sliced grilled steak and gooey provolone cheese cooked with onions, green peppers, and mushrooms, then topped with lettuce, tomato, and mayo and stuffed inside a toasted hoagie roll.

The flavor packs a punch, but the prices are easy on the wallet. 2607 Vine St., Corryville, (513) 221-0800, cincysteakandlemonade.com

FISH SANDWICH

Dolly’s Burgers & Shakes Even after Frisch’s legal troubles, closures, and financial issues in recent years, the Big Boy is still around but Dolly’s is muscling in on the rotund wonder’s turf throughout the tri-state. It helps that the menus are essentially the same, so when you snag that made-to-order fish sandwich with hand-battered cod fillets, shredded lettuce, American cheese, and tartar sauce on a brioche bun, you’ll hardly notice the name change. 7706 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 318-5978; 9070 Plainfield Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 318-5975; 5202 Delhi Rd., Delhi Twp., (513) 318-5979; 9830 Colerain Ave., Colerain Twp., (513) 318-5984

fun fact!

PHOTOGRAPH BY HAILEY BOLLINGER / ICON BY STEF HADIWIDJAJA

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TORTA CUBANA La Torta Loca

8645 HAINES DR. A, FLORENCE, (859) 228-7599, L ATORTALOCA FLORENCE.COM; 564 BUT TERMILK PIKE, CRESCENT SPRINGS, (859) 360-2423, L ATORTALOCAK Y.COM

Traditional street fare in Mexico, the torta Cubana is for carnivores only. The Venezuelan/Mexican eatery takes a bolillo bun and layers it with a protein explosion: marinated steak, chorizo, sausage links, ham, breaded chicken breast, cheese, and egg. The packed meat is balanced with veggies like pickled jalapeños, avocado, tomato, and lettuce. It’ll take you two hands to bite into it, but trust us. This best seller is worth every morsel.

PHOTOGRAPH BY HAILEY BOLLINGER

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GYRO Ali Baba Mediterranean Grill

4793 RED BANK RD., MADISONVILLE, (513) 271-0706, ORDER ALIBABAMEDI TERR ANEANGRILL.COM

The Greeks invented the gyro, but it’s trickled into other cultures. Ali Baba serves up Mediterranean classics like kebabs and falafel, but the roasted meat sandwich is a must-try. The pita bread is soft and does a good job holding together the beef and lamb, onions, and tomato that burst from its seams. Tzatziki sauce made with diced cucumbers and thick yogurt smothers the entire thing.

BRAISED SHORT RIB GRILLED CHEESE

Incline Public House If you prefer meat in your grilled cheese, you can’t go wrong with this one. It’s a rich dish—braised short rib, caramelized onion, Swiss cheese, and BBQ sauce served on toasted white bread—but no so rich that you won’t have room for a side of onion rings or a basket of sweet potato waffle fries. 2601 W. Eighth St., Price Hill, (513) 251-3000, inclinepublichouse.com

KATSU SANDO

Café Mochiko Café Mochiko is known for its ramen and pastry, but don’t skip the umami-filled Japanese katsu sando. It’s a fried pork cutlet covered in crunchy panko set between housemade Japanese milk bread topped with housemade pickles, shredded cabbage, Kewpie mayo, and katsu sauce (ketchup and Worcestershire-based sauce). It comes with a side of potato salad, featuring salted cucumbers, karashi (spicy mustard), and a splash of yuzu juice. 1524 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 559-1000, cafemochiko.com

BLT DOUBLE DECKER J&W Sandwich Shoppe

A BLT is already stacked, and Norwood’s J&W Sandwich Shoppe takes it a step further. Yes, it has bacon, lettuce, tomato, and mayo—but it also has an extreme amount of crispy bacon (there’s no such thing as an excessive amount). Add cheeses like Swiss or provolone, and extras such as more meat. (The more the merrier.) Priced at $6.25, it’s one of the most affordable and delicious meals in town. We wish you luck in trying to eat the entire thing in one sitting.

2004 Worth Ave., Norwood, (513) 631-9755, jwsandwichnorwood.com

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and THE MOLINE CLUB

GRILLED CHEESE

It doesn’t get any more classic than this. The Moline Club is a double decker of oven-roasted turkey, red onion, Applewood smoked bacon, tomato, lettuce, avocado, and house mayo on white toast, a tasty throwback to the days when the clubhouse sandwich was a standard on nearly every restaurant’s lunch menu. The avocado on M&N’s version adds an unexpected texture but the taste remains the same. The only thing missing is the cocktail stick holding it all together.

4183 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 873-7399, morselandnosh.com

This ain’t your mom’s grilled cheese.

The durum wheat bread is buttered and toasted like it’s homemade, but the cheese selections are what take the simple childhood sandwich to another level. The tanginess of creamy, black garlic-infused quark is balanced by the slightly nutty flavor of gouda for a taste that the gourmand in your life wouldn’t want to pass up. 645 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 7487114, smokedandpickled.com

Morsel & Nosh

The Pickled Pig

The most important meal of the day begins with these sandwiches. —AIESHA D. LITTLE

SOUTHWESTERN THE BAGELRY Pepperjack cheese, jalapeño garlic cream cheese, banana peppers, and red onions turn up the heat on scrambled eggs and a sausage patty for a fiery wakeup call. It’s all served on your choice of fresh hand-rolled, kettle-boiled bagel—just what you’d expect from The Bagelry. 3212 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 996-0141; 1401 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 975-0631, bagelrycincy.com

YAKI OMELETTE SANDO PROUD HOUND

BACON FIG & GOAT

GOVERNOR TSO FRIED CHICKEN SANDO

Tom & Chee

The Governor

Since 2009, T&C has gone from a local pop-up pushing “the perfect grilled cheese” to a national franchise known for unusual combos (grilled cheese doughnut, anyone?), including this melt. Served on wheat bread, the bacon is layered with goat cheese, mozzarella, sautéed onions, and tomato. The BFG could be on its way to being a double decker if it weren’t slathered in Bonne Maman Fig Preserves, a quick hit of sweetness to an otherwise piquant sandwich. Multiple locations, tomandchee.com

This crispy fried chicken breast is coated in a five-spice seasoning, topped with apricot slaw, lemon mayo, sesame cucumber, and served on a griddled brioche bun. It’s a two-hander, for sure, but neither the five spices nor the apricot slaw overpowers the main ingredient; the chicken is definitely in charge. While it’s large enough to fill you up on its own, don’t skip out on the crinkle cut fries with the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. 231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com

fun fact!

GO FISH As a way to retain sales during Lent, McDonald’s franchisee Lou Groen invented the Filet-O-Fish sandwich at the West North Bend Road location in 1962. It was added to menus nationwide in 1965.

Made with omelette-style eggs and white American cheese, this toasted sando at Proud Hound Coffee is heavy on the ingredients—shiitake mushroom, green onion, cabbage, Japanese BBQ and vegan yum-yum sauces—and is probably the easiest on this list to swap out for a vegan version if you need to. (We don’t think you will, though.) 6717 Montgomery Rd., Silverton, (513) 987-1233, proudhoundcoffee.com

GOETTA, EGG, AND CHEESE ECKERLIN MEATS

Eckerlin Meats serves its breakfast sandwiches all day every day so don’t feel confined to the ante meridiem hours if you’re not a morning person. If you want to stay true to Cincinnati’s roots, the goetta (German-style sausage of pork and oats) is the way to go.

116 W. Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-5743, eckerlinmeats. com

BREAKFAST SAMMY FABLE CAFE

There are some gems on the west side. Case in point: Fable Cafe.

The coffeeshop has a small-ish menu of pastries and sandwiches, including the made-to-order Breakfast Sammy, which comes with egg, two slices of bacon, white cheddar, housemade arugula mayo, all on a toasted English muffin. 3117 Harrison Ave., Westwood, fablecafecincy.com

THE LOLA

CACKLEBERRY If you think 9 a.m. is too early to be out of the house on a Saturday, you’ve never had Cackleberry’s The Lola (Spam, Japanese rolled omelette, green onion, chives, and sriracha mayo in a brioche bun). Affectionately named after China Kautz’s Filipino grandma (lola means grandmother in Tagalog), it’s one of the mobile breakfast bar’s best-selling menu items. There’s no need to wonder why. eatcackleberry.com

ICON BY STEF HADIWIDJAJA

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freekbass 's

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has come The veteran Cincinnati musician found a worldwide audience and steady income on TikTok. That Times Square billboard didn’t hurt either.

By Damian Dotterweich Photographs by Devyn Glista

Chris “Freekbass” Sherman is such a talented musician that you could drop him in the middle of the Midwest with only his bass guitar, his phone, and the clothes on his back and he’d figure out a way to funk up the world. In fact, he’s already doing it, lighting up a digital platform that’s normally considered the realm of teenagers: TikTok. Six nights a week, Freekbass (the “bass” refers to his instrument and is pronounced like it) dresses up and performs live from his music studio on Cincinnati’s east side. Last year, TikTok Live Fest named him one of its top 10 U.S. creators (a category that includes everyone from crafters to trick shot artists) and he landed in the top 100 globally.

How did it happen? It was mostly through Sherman’s talent and flair for showmanship.

Back before he was dubbed “Freekbass,” he was always a freak about the bass guitar. “I was probably 5 or 6 years old at a hardware store with my father, and I remember it like it was yesterday,” he says. “This person walked by the store and was playing ‘More Bounce to the Ounce’ by Zapp on a boombox. I didn’t know that was a bass guitar I was hearing, but I was fascinated by that sound.”

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Sherman played with a teen blues band and then shifted gears to the “Clifton world,” as he calls it, of original songs and a DIY ethos, where he honed both his chops and his songwriting skills. He was in the high-profile local rock band Sleep Theatre with Itaal Shur, who later cowrote the Santana/Rob Thomas super-hit “Smooth” and remains an in-demand songwriter/producer. Sherman’s side project dance band SHAG took on a funky life of its own that led to nationwide touring. Given his proclivity for funky bass licks and his proximity to the coolest bass player in the universe, it was only a matter of time until Sherman got to meet Bootsy Collins.

Collins became a mentor, helping Sherman find his own groove in the studio. “I started going out to his studio three, four, or five times a week, and I would just sit there and he showed me how to use equipment and how to use the board,” says Sherman. “I mean, basically that was my music school. Bootsy and I would talk about the music business and not getting too caught up in all the flashiness of it. I thought I was just gonna learn some cool bass tricks. I had no idea I was going to learn how to basically create records, which is what he taught me to do. It was a pretty magical experience.”

And, yes, William Earl Collins—no stranger to the magic of a nickname—bestowed the “Freekbass” moniker on Sherman, equal parts validation and benediction.

But a bit of “right place, right time” also came into play to help Freekbass turn TikTok into his personal playground. Actually, it was more like “wrong place, right time.” Sherman has always been willing to

experiment with emerging media and ways to connect with music fans and had a presence on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube.

He started to dabble in Twitch, a platform primarily populated by gamers, when a fellow bass player who just happened to work at TikTok suggested Sherman give that platform a shot.

If you think TikTok is an endless scroll of six-second videos of dance moves, cute animals, and comedy clips, you aren’t alone. And that type of content remains its stock in trade. But Sherman is finding it can also be a great place to connect with fans on a deeper, more personal level.

When he powers up his instruments and goes live, he’ll play music. But what Sherman really likes about TikTok is the ability to connect with fans in real time and respond to feedback on the fly. With help

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from his moderators, who bring comments and questions to his attention, Freekbass can stop mid-song and show how he constructed a particularly tasty lick. He also shares a bit about his personal life. When his mother was having health issues, he mentioned it on one of his live performances, and the outpouring of support bolstered his spirits.

In fact, it was his mother’s love of old movies that helped launch Freekbass’s passion for fashion. “My dad was a firefighter and had these weird shifts where they do 24 hours on and 48 hours off, so I was with my mom a lot, and I’m an only child,” he says. “And even though she grew up in the 1960s, she was really into old showbiz: Judy Garland, Gene Kelly, Elvis. She made me an Elvis outfit when I was a little kid. A couple of them, in fact.”

PHOTOGRAPHS (ABOVE) COURTESY CHRIS SHERMAN

LARGE AND IN CHARGE (Opposite page) Freekbass with his mentor, funk legend and fellow Cincinnatian Bootsy Collins, and taking over a Times Square video billboard.

Follow Freekbas s!

Catch THE FREEK Sundays th QUENCY on TikTok LIVE rough Frid ays at 9 p.m .

@freekba

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FUNKY FASHION Freekbass’s unique style was inspired by his 1950s-movie-loving mom, and his wife Angie Wilson (below) helps craft and curate his wild wardrobe, including a suit jacket made out of hundreds of tiny stuffed panda bear toys.

Ever since, the Freekbass stage persona has felt less like a put-on and more like his version of comfort clothing. “When I wear these outlandish costumes, that’s when I feel the most comfortable in my skin, too,” he says. “But it also keeps you on your toes, because if I was dressing as crazy as I do and couldn’t play, it probably wouldn’t come off very well.”

His style is a family affair, too. Wife Angie Wilson is a University of Cincinnati DAAP grad and helps source or create some of his outfits, including the custom pandabear-toy suit he wore on the TikTok Awards ceremony red carpet last year in Los Angeles.

Freekbass makes money from his TikTok presence, including via subscriptions, a model similar to Patreon, for superfans.

Those who want to hone their bass licks can pay for exclusive longform instructional videos called “Bass Series with Freekbass.” He also gets sponsorship funding from instrument manufacturers and clothing, sneaker, and eyewear companies, plus a cut of merchandise sold via links shared on his channel.

TikTok helped Sherman realize a dream when the platform chose him as one of five content creators to feature on the famous NASDAQ ticker billboard in Times Square P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

to promote its Live Fest in December. “I was getting on a plane from Los Angeles back to Cincinnati and a flight attendant came up to me and said, ‘A friend of mine told me you were in Times Square,’ ” he recalls. “So I called Angie, and NASDAQ actually has an online feed of its billboard. She looked it up real quick, and my image was on the billboard already. So I booked a ticket to New York to see it and get some photos, because that’s a once in a lifetime thing.”

While Sherman is sharing the music he loves, being a TikTok creator means constantly feeding the beast. In addition to his six-nights-a-week livestream—he takes Saturdays off because he’s an FC Cincinnati fanatic—he creates at least one other video clip each day, often featuring more candid, behind-the-scenes content. So in many ways he’s living his life online for all to see.

But the upside far outweighs those demands, he says. Freekbass has found a whole new audience, and while he isn’t pulling in Kardashian dollars on TikTok, it has allowed him to share his skills globally. “It beats getting in the van and driving seven hours to play a show for 80 people in a bar,” he says.

Sherman still plays shows IRL, but thanks to his higher profile he can be more selective and play larger venues, typically at music festivals. In other words, TikTok has helped his career keep on ticking without leaving his hometown. “I’m sure I’d be playing music no matter what part of the world I live in,” he says. “But I’m not 100 percent sure I’d be playing funk had I not grown up in this area, because it’s such a part of our DNA here in Cincinnati—James Brown, Midnight Star, and of course Bootsy.”

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A Man of Mystery J.P. Ball, a free man of color, brought the new art of photography to Cincinnati in 1845. One of his famous portrait subjects was Frederick Douglass (opposite page).

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Photographs (left) Courtesy Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture (right) Courtesy Cincinnati Museum Center.

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By Cedric Rose

The mystique of J.P. Ball, Cincinnati’s first Black photographer, endures.

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A New Medium J.P. Ball opened his grandest studio, the Great Daguerrean Gallery of the West, on Fourth Street downtown in 1851.

after Louis Daguerre revealed his process of exposing a chemical-embedded plate to light to create photography, a young man named James Presley Ball brought a daguerreotype camera to Cincinnati. J.P., as he called himself, had learned the inventor’s process in Virginia.

Ball, a free man of color, opened a one-room photo studio in Cincinnati in 1845, but the business soon folded. He honed his skills as an itinerant daguerreotypist, travelling throughout Ohio and Virginia before making his way back to Cincinnati in 1849. This time, he made a big splash.

With business partners and family members, Ball opened at least 10 studios in downtown Cincinnati, employing a whole team of Black artists. On the border that delineated bondage from freedom for 4.4 million enslaved people, he rose to prominence as one of the greatest photographers in the West. Cincinnati was a major hub on the Underground Railroad, and Ball used his camera to support the abolitionist cause.

“Cincinnati was the sixth largest city in the nation at that point and growing tremendously,” says Theresa

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Leininger-Miller, an art historian and professor in the University of Cincinnati’s DAAP program. It also became a hotbed of early photographic innovation. In 1848, the year before Ball’s return, photographers Charles Fontayne and William S. Porter made an eight-plate panorama of the Cincinnati waterfront that many have called the “Mona Lisa of daguerreotypes.”

Cincinnati of the mid-19th century could be volatile, with pro-slavery mobs attacking the homes and businesses of abolitionists. While Ball was born to free Black parents, “he had to have papers saying that he was free,” says Leininger-Miller, who has cabinets of files tracking Ball through historical records and newspapers. For example, he was in Virginia in December 1847 in order to register his certificate of freedom.

Leininger-Miller’s fascination with Ball began while she was working on a Yale University doctoral dissertation about African American artists in Paris. At the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, she befriended Deborah Willis, author of the 1993 book J.P. Ball, Daguerrean and Studio Photographer, credited with reinvigorating interest in him. But Willis hadn’t come to Cincinnati to research Ball, so when Leinenger-Miller returned to Cincinnati for a job at DAAP she thought, Well, cast down your bucket where you are. I should see what’s here.

She was soon integrating Ball into her UC curriculum, writing and lecturing on his work.

She visited everywhere Ball lived: Mississippi, Louisiana, Minneapolis, St. Louis, Montana, Seattle, Honolulu, and London. Yet, despite the hundreds of images he left, Ball remains enigmatic. “The problem is that there’s no collective body of his papers and there’s no correspondence,” she says. “What we know mostly comes from newspapers, which can

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EN YEARS

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sometimes be false and misleading. So no matter what’s published in the papers, you kind of Picturing It All have to take it with a grain of salt.”

The most collections centered on Ball and his conTheresa Leininger-Miller, an art historian and On top of that, there was only one temporaries, Glenalvin Goodridge and photographed professor in the University known photograph of Ball himself, pub- Augustus Washington. The museum also man of the 19th of Cincinnati′s DAAP program, poses with a lished in Esther Hall Mumford’s Seattle’s hosted an exhibition in 2023 exploring century, Fredreplica of one of J.P. Ball′s Black Victorians: 1852–1901. The image is Ball’s collaboration with Cincinnati-based erick Douglass, original cameras. grainy, but he’s balding and light-skinned landscape painter Robert Seldon Duncan- gave eloquent with a flowing beard fastidiously groomed. son, considered one of the most important voice to this That’s the image on which illustrator landscape painters of the era. Duncanson influence in lectures about photography, Taron Jordan based the ArtWorks mural and other artists worked in Ball’s studios, the first of which he delivered at Boston’s tribute to Ball on Race Street between adding touches of color and gold to photo Tremont Theatre a year after being physiFourth and Fifth, close to where the pro- portraits. cally assaulted on its stage. “The humbled digious artist, enservant girl whose income is but a trepreneur, and few shillings per activist operated amed landscape painter Robert Seldon Duncanson, his photo studios. w e e k ,” w r i t e s whose murals adorn the Taft Museum of Art, worked The mural, last Douglass in that in J.P. Ball’s photography studios, adding touches of color lecture, titled Pictime I biked past, and gold to photo portraits. tures and Progress, was slightly de“may now possess faced. Ball’s name a m o re p e r f e c t is crossed out and replaced with the question “Where?” That Beyond their rarity and beauty, Ball’s likeness of herself than noble ladies and feels apropos, given the mystery surround- images bear witness to a taken-for-grant- court royalty.” ing an artist who—despite leaving hun- ed aspect of our Instagram age: the phodreds, perhaps thousands of images—re- tograph’s ability to change the viewer. At AN 1855 CINCINNATI DIRECTORY mains an elusive and restless figure. its dawn, the medium had profound social, puts Ball’s home address at the Dumas Interest in early Black photographers cultural, and psychological implications House on Fourth Street, where Western has spiked in recent decades, with col- for those who couldn’t previously afford & Southern is today. The Black-owned lectors and museums seeking out work painted portraiture. Ball and his contem- hotel was “station number 1” on the Unby Ball and his peers. In 1992, a rare 1850s poraries gave their subjects new agency derground Railroad. Business partners inCincinnati street scene by Ball sold to a over their own image, which was espe- cluded Ball’s brothers; his brother-in-law private collector for the then-record price cially strong for Blacks who had endured Alexander Thomas; and Robert Harlan, of $63,800. In 2021 and 2023, the Smith- centuries of negative imagery designed to who was born enslaved, made a fortune in the gold rush, C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 7 0 sonian American Art Museum acquired justify and perpetuate their subjugation.

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I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H S T. E L I Z A B E T H

Meet Caroline Elmer-Lyon, M.D., a urogynecologist who specializes in helping women with pelvic floor disorders like urinary incontinence, prolapse, and pelvic pain. She sees patients at St. Elizabeth Healthcare in Edgewood and Greendale, Indiana.

You Don’t Have to Live With It:

Caroline Elmer-Lyon, M.D., Urogynecologist at St. Elizabeth Healthcare, Offers Comprehensive Care for Pelvic Floor Disorders What is urogynecology, and how can it help women with pelvic floor disorders?

Urogynecology is a subspecialty of obstetrics and gynecology (OB-GYN) or urology that focuses on pelvic floor disorders. Most specialists in this field have an OB-GYN background. This means they have experience handling childbirth-related trauma and pelvic surgeries.

After completing their OB-GYN residency, urogynecologists complete an additional three-year fellowship focusing on pelvic floor disorders. The fellowship allows us to become highly specialized in this niche. We treat conditions such as vaginal prolapse, urinary incontinence, bladder pain syndrome, and bowel issues like fecal incontinence. We manage these conditions, always tailoring our approach to meet the specific needs of the patient.

We take a close look at the pelvic floor to figure out what’s going on— whether it’s prolapse, muscle spasms, or something else. These details

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matter because there isn’t just one surgery or treatment that works for all prolapse or pelvic floor disorders.

How does childbirth affect pelvic floor health?

Pregnancy and childbirth can have lasting impacts on the pelvic floor. The weight of carrying a baby and the strain of delivery—especially vaginal deliveries—can stretch or tear the muscles and connective tissues that support the bladder, uterus, and bowel.

Many women don’t realize that childbirth can be the starting point for pelvic floor disorders. Even minor trauma during delivery can have longterm effects, such as incontinence or prolapse. For some women, these issues appear immediately after childbirth. Others may notice them years later, as muscles and tissues naturally weaken with age.

What is pelvic pain and when is it necessary to seek care?

The bladder, bowel, or pelvic floor muscles can cause pelvic pain. It’s a

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complex condition, but the pain is treatable. Muscle spasms can cause pain, and doing Kegels in these cases can make it worse. Instead, we focus on pelvic relaxation exercises or refer patients to pelvic physical therapy.

Diet can also affect pelvic pain.

Certain foods like caffeine, spicy foods, or artificial sweeteners can make symptoms worse. If you’ve tried lifestyle changes and the pain continues, don’t ignore it. Pelvic pain is real and we’re here to help you find and treat the cause.

What can women expect during their first appointment with a urogynecologist?

During the first visit, you can expect a detailed conversation about your symptoms, a pelvic exam, and possibly some diagnostic tests. We may ask you to keep a bladder or bowel diary beforehand. This helps us identify patterns, such as when leakage happens or how much fluid you drink during the day.

Come prepared for a pelvic exam. The exam is important because that’s how we check if structural issues are causing your symptoms. We use these exams to carefully evaluate the pelvic floor and identify potential problems that contribute to symptoms. We may also collect a urine sample to check for underlying issues, like infection or blood in the urine.

If you’ve had past surgeries, try to bring the operative reports with you. Knowing about those surgeries can help us decide on the best treatment plan. Finding those records can be challenging, so having them ready is very helpful.

What are the most common pelvic floor conditions that might require treatment?

Some of the most common conditions we treat include: • Stress urinary incontinence – Leaking urine when coughing, laughing, or sneezing.

• Overactive bladder – Feeling a sudden, intense need to urinate and not making it to the toilet in time.

• Pelvic organ prolapse – A bulge or pressure in the vagina that

feels like a golf ball or egg sticking out.

• Bowel incontinence – Sudden urges to pass stool that make it difficult to reach the bathroom in time.

Since each condition is different, getting the right diagnosis is important to finding the best treatment. For example, surgery for stress incontinence won’t help someone with an overactive bladder, so the correct diagnosis is key.

How do you decide between pelvic surgery and non-surgical treatments?

The choice between medical therapies and surgery depends on how much the condition affects your daily life and personal goals.

Some women want to manage symptoms with pelvic floor exercises or physical therapy, and that’s perfectly fine. Others may have more severe symptoms—like being unable to leave the house without fear of an accident—and they’re ready to explore surgical options.

We also have many non-surgical treatment options, like medicine or vaginal inserts, which work well for some conditions. We tailor treatment plans based on the patient’s preferences and how aggressive they want to be.

Ultimately, we make the decision together.

What minimally invasive techniques do you use in pelvic surgery, and how do they help recovery?

Most urogynecologists use several minimally invasive techniques. These can include vaginal, robotic, and laparoscopic surgeries. Vaginal surgery is the least invasive since it avoids abdominal incisions and lets us treat the problem directly.

We often use robotic surgery when we need to add mesh for additional support. Mesh can make repairs more durable, but it’s not always necessary. Both approaches reduce recovery times and risks compared to traditional open surgeries.

What does recovery look like after pelvic surgery?

Recovery after surgery usually involves light activity for about six weeks. This doesn’t mean you have to stay in bed. You can walk, use light weights, or go up and down stairs slowly. The key is to avoid heavy lifting.

Proper nutrition, especially getting enough protein, is vital for healing. For older women who may have lost lean body mass, I recommend protein shakes like Ensure or Boost to help with recovery. Once you’ve recovered from surgery, pelvic physical therapy can improve outcomes.

How does pelvic floor treatment improve quality of life?

Treating pelvic floor disorders can be life-changing. Many women tell me they feel like they can finally enjoy life again. Whether that’s going out with friends, playing with their kids or grandkids, or feeling confident.

These conditions don’t just affect physical health; they can impact mental health, too. Many women with urinary or bowel incontinence experience anxiety or depression because they’re afraid to leave the house. Addressing these issues can help restore confidence and improve overall well-being.

Ready to take control of your pelvic health? Schedule an appointment today by calling (859) 757-2132. Visit our website to learn more about the specialized urogynecology care we offer at St. Elizabeth Healthcare.

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Going Through the Change New ways of treating menopause and perimenopause in Cincinnati.

Everyone born with a uterus expects menopause. That doesn’t mean anyone’s ready for it. Many don’t understand what to expect, the associated risks, or how to find support. Since this inevitable transition has historically been dismissed as just another part of life, many people aren’t even aware there are treatment options to deal with symptoms of menopause and perimenopause.

“We define menopause as a year without menstrual periods,” says Betsy LeRoy, M.D., an OB-GYN with TriHealth and co-medical director of TriHealth’s Menopause Division. “But the transition is not overnight. Individuals can start to feel changes as young as 40. We call that phase of life perimenopause, and that can last three to seven years.”

“Even if patients are having regular periods, they may have sleep issues, night sweats, and moodiness,” adds Mary Kathryn Jabin, M.D., an OB-GYN with Mercy Health.

The classic symptoms of perimenopause that Jabin describes are only part of the picture. Moodiness is a vague term that suggests bouts of irritability or moping, but according to the Cleveland Clinic, medical depression is a common risk. Then there are the threats to a woman’s confidence and self-image from hair loss and weight gain. Patients can also suffer from muscle pain, joint aches, trouble with memory,

ly honest about her age, her abilities, and social stigmas she faces about aging women in interviews. She isn’t an outlier, either. Eighty percent of Forbes’s list of the “100 Most Powerful Women” are at least 50, and their ranks include CEOs, politicians, and media moguls.

“I think it’s really important to acknowledge that women over 40 matter,” LeRoy says. “We contribute an incredible amount to not only family and social dynamics, but also the workforce.

So, keeping this age group optimized, keeping them healthy, and keeping them happy, so they can remain an integral part of the productive society we’re in is important. That’s where the genesis for menopausal care came from. It is

Many people aren’t even aware there are treatment options to deal with menopause. lapsing focus, and dry skin, mouth, and eyes. It’s a potent cocktail that could derail anyone’s professional, social, or personal focus. After all, menopause doesn’t happen in a vacuum, and many patients already have existing mental, physical, and practical burdens to bear.

“We’ve recently recognized that the menopause phase will encompass maybe 40 to 50 years of a person’s life,” LeRoy says. “So, we’re customizing healthcare for women of this age group, and this is becoming the new standard of care. The same way a pediatrician sees an infant, a menopause-related specialist can take care of a woman facing these changes who’s seeing issues she hadn’t anticipated and needs help navigating.”

“I see a lot of women throughout their entire lives,” Jabin explains. “Everyone experiences menopause differently. One of the things I like to discuss is how women are living longer. Some women are living into their 90s, and you want to be as active and healthy as possible during that time.”

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important we start addressing these concerns and preparing our patients for that early. We don’t let preteens wander into puberty without education, and I think that’s important for this age.”

A study by the Fawcett Society in 2022 found over 40 percent of menopausal women interviewed faced mockery at their workplaces about their symptoms, and nearly half didn’t bring their symptoms to a primary care physician. Around 30 percent of the half that did approach their doctors had to endure multiple appointments before their doctors even realized menopause might be responsible.

“In the past, the biggest obstacle was

Personalized Health Care That Revolves Around You Living a healthier life starts with engaging in your health care. Our team of expert physicians are available in person or virtually through MyChart, to help you prioritize your health for you or anyone that depends on you. Connect with Mercy Health on MyChart.

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access to providers who understood menopause and didn’t dismiss it. Many patients report to me they’ve been told: It’s natural, get over it,” LeRoy says.

“Cancer is natural. Pneumonia is natural. We don’t tell people with broken bones, which is a natural consequence of falling, to get over it. So, the biggest obstacles I’ve seen have been validating and listening to women and addressing their concerns.”

“Even though the process is natural, a lot of the symptoms affect quality of life, and those quality-of-life issues can directly impact patients’ health,” Jabin says. “When you stop making estrogen, you start losing bone mass, and that isn’t something you can see or feel. Sleep deprivation is another big problem.”

“Treatment is fairly important, not just for women’s quality of life but also their heart health, cognitive health, and bone health,” says Fred Gonzales, M.D., an OB-GYN with The Christ Hospital. “We know the decrease in estrogen can impact all those areas, and there’s some evidence to suggest hormone replacement therapy can help them live a longer, healthier life.”

A study funded by the U.S. National Institutes for Health revealed the potential health concerns menopausal changes

created by looking closer at patients dealing with early menopause. This essentially created the same conditions as regular menopause for a protracted amount of time. It found patients faced significantly heightened risk to cognition, mood, cardiovascular health, and bone health in addition to an overall increased chance of early mortality compared to their peers. Taking care of yourself early in the process and taking symptoms seriously can make an enormous difference.

“I think a lot of women suffer needlessly because they don’t know there are proven treatments that can help them,” Jabin says. “Some treatments are prescription hormones, some are lifestyle changes, and some are non-hormonal prescriptions that can help with symptoms.”

Of all these options, hormones are among the most frequently recommended, but there are a lot of myths and misconstrued data about them.

“I think patients come to me with a lot of preconceived notions about hormone therapy,” Gonzales says. “They have a particular worry about the risk of breast cancer.”

Many of these misunderstandings tie back to the 2002 study released by

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the Women’s Health Initiative. Data were misconstrued to suggest hormone replacement therapy (HRT) was dangerous, likely to cause blood clots, and would increase the risk of breast cancer. Although the scientific community pointed out the flaws in the study, including a detailed critique released in 2005, the ominous suggestion of cancer stuck to HRT for decades. That perception is finally starting to change.

“The vast majority of menopausal women can take hormone therapy with minimal risks and lots of benefits,” Jabin says. “I have a lot more women coming to me and asking me for it. I don’t have to convince them.”

These therapies are also far more accessible than most people realize. “A lot of patients think that they have to go somewhere special to get menopause-related care,” Jabin says. “They come to me thinking they need to go to a special clinic for bio-identical hormone treatments, but there are generic, inexpensive bio-identical treatments they can get through their general gynecologist.”

Doctors, of course, have other tools to help. Many can be used in place of or in concert with hormone therapies.

There are several common medications used to treat other conditions, like SSRIs, that may help, and there’s a new, non-hormonal treatment for hot flashes. “It’s actually targeting neurons in the brain’s thermoregulatory center that causes hot flashes,” Gonzales says.

“This is great for women who don’t qualify for hormone therapy or want to avoid hormones altogether.”

“It’s important for women to see their doctors regularly, including their gynecologists, because there are so many ways we can help,” Jabin says. “Vaginal health is very important as we age, and a lot of women who don’t want to take hormones can still use estrogen in their vaginas. It makes a big difference in their vaginal and bladder health, and it doesn’t affect anything else.”

Various hormone therapies are

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Lifestyle changes also play a major role in menopausal health. Patients may need to adjust diets or reconsider exercise regimens for optimized, long-term results.

“Patients should at least be open to discussing all their options so they can choose the best course of treatment,” Gonzales says.

“There’s not a one-size-fits-all agenda for each patient. There’s not a single, magical treatment that will take you back to your 20s,” LeRoy says.

“Oftentimes people think with a single hormonal treatment therapy, they’ll be back to their younger self. I never promise that.”

And if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

“There’s so much misinformation on social media,” Jabin says. “It’s prompted a lot of women to come in and be proactive about their health, which is good, but you have to be careful what you read and believe.”

Continuing fears around HRT, for example, often make the rounds online.

Friends and family members may share such posts with you in good faith, but good intentions can still hurt your health.

“Menopause is having a moment,” LeRoy says, “so there’s an incredible amount of information flooding social media, and there are unsavory individuals and companies that are trying to take advantage of the vulnerability some women feel at this point in time.”

Scammers and misleading advertisements pop up like weeds on Facebook,

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TikTok, and Instagram. The Federal Trade Commission has already targeted some of the most egregious offenders, but careful phrasing and pretty web design shelter plenty of others from direct legal consequences.

“Women may find herbal supplements online that claim to help with hot flashes,” Gonzales says. “It’s important to note that there isn’t a lot of research on these supplements, and some of them can be toxic to the liver. So, if that’s something they’re interested in, they should definitely discuss these options with their doctor.”

Unlike a smiling salesperson in a white lab coat, your doctor knows your full medical history. Not all supplements grow out of junk science, but they can still interfere with other, prescribed medication for dangerous results.

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Others may stress organs compromised by other diseases. If you have questions, bring them to an expert.

“I encourage women to sit down with their primary care providers, even outside of annual wellness check-ups, and have a conversation where they can really address just the menopause timeframe of their life head-on,” LeRoy says. “I want you to feel good now, but I also want you to feel good when you’re 70. If we optimize your health now, it’s going to benefit you in the long run.”

“Even though menopause is an inevitable part of aging, the symptoms that come with change can be managed with lifestyle changes and medication, and it’s worth having that discussion whenever you’re comfortable talking about it,” Gonzales says.

Taking symptoms seriously can make an enormous difference.

Your primary care provider isn’t your only option for such a conversation. A doctor trained specifically in women’s health may be your preferred guide.

“Gynecologists should be educated and help inform patients,” Jabin says, “and if we don’t have the answers, we have the resources to help patients find what they need.”

Not ready to talk to someone? The Menopause Society offers easy access to resources online. The site ranges from FAQs to searchable databases of

physicians certified through the organization to be informed about the latest menopause science, treatments, and considerations.

“Women are uniting and discussing their symptoms,” LeRoy says. “Women are seeking out physicians who understand and want to promote optimal wellness. This is no longer a hush-hush subject. Not everyone gets diabetes.

Not everyone gets asthma or high blood pressure, but every woman, if she lives long enough, will face menopause.”

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CAMERAMAN OBSCURA CONTINUED FROM PAGE 59

BALL WOULD LEAVE CINCINNATI IN THE 1860S, MOVING TO MISSISSIPPI, LOUISIANA, MISSOURI, MINNESOTA, MONTANA, SEATTLE, AND EVENTUALLY HAWAII, WHERE HE DIED IN 1904.

After being shown in Cincinnati, Ball’s panorama made its Boston debut on April 30, 1855. In November, William Cooper Nell advertised it for sale at the address of the Massachusetts Anti-Slavery Society.

Did he find a buyer? Are fragments languishing in some attic? We don’t know.

And then there’s the mystery of photos Ball was said to have taken, while living in England in 1856–57, of Charles Dickens and Queen Victoria. One of his daughters was born in London and was named Estella Victoria, he said, after the abolitionistminded monarch. American newspapers printed that The London Times reported Ball had photographed both, but the portraits have never surfaced.

While much about Ball remains shrouded in mystery, his support of fellow Black artists shines through. Ella Sheppard came to Cincinnati around 1860 fearing re-enslavement following the death of her father, who had purchased her freedom.

She went on to become a founding member of the seminal Fisk Jubilee Singers, who made important strides in popularizing Black spirituals with white Northerners.

When Sheppard’s family arrived destitute in Cincinnati, Ball “adopted” her, she said, and “offered to give me a thorough musical education, with the understanding that I was to repay him at some future day.”

issue of Gleason’s Pictorial Drawing Room Companion describes how guests would enter a gallery with flesh-toned walls “bordered with gold leaf and flowers” and hung with statues of goddesses and hundreds of daguerreotype portraits, including one of the Swedish Opera singer Jenny Lind. There were vistas of Niagara Falls and paintings by Duncanson. One studio was fitted for taking pictures of infants and children.

The 1850s and ’60s saw rapid developments in photographic technology. Metal and glass plate daguerreotypes, ambrotypes, and tintypes were followed by much more affordable albumen prints on cardboard or paper. The first mass-produced photos, or “cartes-de-visites” (calling cards), became popular in the 1860s and sold in the millions to Civil War soldiers and their loved ones.

The Cincinnati Museum Center holds one of the nation’s largest collections of

IN THE 1860S, BALL WENT BANKRUPT IN Cincinnati, possibly due to some failed investments. A Cincinnati Enquirer article from October 8, 1862, reported that Ball’s wife, Virginia, from whom he had been separated for several months, attacked a girl in his studio “with whom Mr. B. is charged with being unusually intimate.” When Ball tried to stop her, Virginia drew a knife and cut him above his temple.

Ball moved south. In Greenville, Mississippi, he was nominated as president of the Board of Supervisors of Washington County at the 1871 Mississippi Republican convention. Two years later, though, he and his son were implicated in a scandal and he was sentenced to three years in prison; his son fled to Vidalia, Louisiana, where he actually worked for the local courts. It’s unclear whether Ball served that entire three-year prison term.

He rejoined his son in Louisiana. Tragedy

Photographs (left) Courtesy Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture (right) Courtesy Cincinnati Museum Center.

A Man of Mystery J.P. Ball, a free man of color, brought the new art of photography to Cincinnati in 1845. One of his famous portrait subjects was Frederick Douglass (opposite page).

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The mystique of J.P. Ball, Cincinnati’s first Black photographer, endures.

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and became a civil rights activist and politician.

On New Year’s Day 1851, Ball opened his grandest enterprise, a magnificent three floor studio-gallery at 30 W. Fourth St. The building’s footprint sits under the long, skylit atrium of what is now the Mercantile Apartments. Fire insurance maps show that building had enormous skylights too, essential for taking photographs in those years before electric light.

Ball’s Great Daguerrean Gallery of the West epitomized his knack for marrying opulence with affordability. The April 1, 1854,

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studio portraits by Ball and his business partners, says Arabeth Balasko, the museum’s curator of photographs, prints, and media. They have “the Ball family album,” she says. “We have J.P.’s brother Tom and his father. We have his mother, who they called Grandma Ball, and his sister.

We have his brother-in-law. We have his nieces and nephews.” The collection is a who’s who of Cincinnati history. There’s Ben Piatt in a Union soldier uniform. UC President Robert Buchanan is there, as is General William Haines Lytle and a young William P. Devou. There are abolitionists and those sympathetic to the cause, including Timothy Day Crane and Mary Matilda Bates Wood Laboiteaux, whose family was involved in the Underground Railroad.

In the preface to Levi Coffin’s memoir there’s mention of a cherished group portrait by Ball. Coffin, known as the “Reputed President of the Underground Railroad,” stands shoulder-to-shoulder with abo-

litionists William Brisbane and Edward Harwood. In an another image, Mr. and Mrs. Coffin share the frame with the Reverend Henry M. Storrs and 10 unnamed “Escapees to Freedom on the Underground Railroad.”

Equal parts artist, entrepreneur, and activist, Ball had a bit of the showman about him à la P.T. Barnum, another of his famous subjects. In 1855, he plowed some of his profits into a panorama of his own, Ball’s Splendid Mammoth Pictorial Tour of the United States, a 2,400-square-yard canvas that scrolled before viewers, displaying scenes of the passage of African Blacks into enslavement in “the land of the free and home of the slave.” But no photographs of the massive painting survive. “How could such a massive painting disappear?” says Leininger-Miller. “How could there not be photographs or prints of it at least? I mean, that’s mind-blowing to me.”

visited the Ball family in 1882, when two young women in the family, newly married, one with her 6-week-old infant, perished when a steamboat burned and sank, killing 21.

From there the Balls moved to Missouri and then to Minneapolis, where he was the official photographer of the 25th anniversary of the Emancipation Proclamation. In October 1887, they moved westward to Helena, Montana, where Ball—with his son, daughter, and daughter-in-law—opened a studio. There he photographed civil leaders, immigrants, and pioneers, many of them Blacks forging new lives on the frontier.

Ball continued to be active in politics and civic affairs in Helena and was a founding member of the city’s AME church. There’s a lightness and optimism to the photos Ball took of frontier strivers and up-and-comers, though he also documented several executions, including that of William Biggerstaff, a Black man who pleaded self-defense for killing someone. Ball was involved in a clemency campaign to save Biggerstaff.

When he went to the gallows, Ball created a haunting triptych of his execution.

In 1900, Ball followed his son to Seattle, where J.P. Jr. had opened photography studios and established a law practice. The elder Ball kept active in civic affairs, but his health declined. Perhaps seeking relief for his severe rheumatism, the family relocated to Honolulu, Hawaii, where they opened a studio in his home. Ball died there in 1904 at the age of 79.

Looking back on his life’s work, there is an immediacy to Ball’s portraits and an unusual casualness to his subjects.

They seemed to feel right at home before his camera, these faces that lived through turbulent years.

Despite his own flaws and falling afoul of a flawed system, Ball seems to have had a sort of faith in America. A newspaper story recounts an episode from his Cincinnati years in which Ball gave a toast, a rare instance of his words being set down. It was a meeting of the Lincoln Memorial Club commemorating the 62nd anniversary of President

Lincoln’s birth. Ball’s younger brother, who was president of the club, and his brother-and-law, Alexander Thomas, also spoke to a room that included luminaries of Cincinnati’s Black community such as Peter H. Clark and civil war hero Powhatan Beatty. When it was Ball’s turn to toast “the great emancipator,” he said, “The American Flag, the banner of beauty and glory. Beautiful ever to the loyal sons of the Republic, hateful only to traitors. It has seen dark hours, may see them again; but ever at the darkest moment there will rise again some Sheridan to save the day.”

A second photograph of J.P. Ball surfaced in a March 2023 auction by Swann Galleries. While Swann respects the confidentiality of its customers, the company passed along a message to the buyer conveying my interest in the whereabouts of this “new” Ball portrait. I expected no response but got an e-mail from Doug Remley at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington, D.C. Nicknamed the “Blacksonian,” the museum acquired the photograph—and Remley sent me high resolution scans of the image and a detailed description.

It’s a print of albumen and silver nitrate, a 3.5-by-2 inch cardboard cartede-visite portrait. Ball stands at an angle to the camera, looking off into the distance with a glint in his eye. Wearing a dark frock coat, he holds a jaunty stovepipe hat against his hip. His hand rests on an ornate column, and the hand is closed. I wish I could see his fingers.

Behind his feet you can just make out the iron brace used in many 19th century photographs to hold subjects steady for the long exposures early photography required.

The image, attributed to “J.P. Ball & Son,” was, according to Swann Gallery website, expected to net between $6,000 and $9,000 but instead went for $125,000. The calling card is signed on its reverse in flowing, dip-pen script: “Respectfully J.P. Ball.”

One hundred and seventy years after introducing photography to Cincinnati, Ball is still finding ways to surprise us.

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PILLOW TALK Sudova’s pelmeni is made with salt cod and potato brandade, creating soft, cushiony dumplings in a caviar beurre blanc sauce.

PH OTO G R A PH BY C ATHERINE VIOX

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DINING OUT

BABA’S BEST

Stop and smell the varenyky at SUDOVA, the spiritual love child of Sarah Dworak’s Babushka Pierogi and Wodka Bar. — M . L E I G H H O O D

S

TEP INTO SUDOVA AND YOU’LL FEEL LIKE YOU’VE BEEN TRANSPORTED TO ANother world. The design revolves around a tapestry by the bar, a beautiful piece made in Ukraine and discovered on Etsy. It showcases a stag framed by trees, giving the restaurant the aesthetic of a secret woodland garden. The patio, dotted with plants and pleasantly shaded, hides behind a gate like a doorway to something magical.

Inside, refracted light from the street meets the shadowed skylights’ reserved glow, illuminating verdant green upholstery and dark wooden furniture. Stained glass from Wooden Nickel Antiques inspired the custom-made bar, and the sconces, the primary source of artificial light, were rescued from the Schulte Mansion before demolition. The overall effect is like sitting down in a friendly forest with a little castle that may or may not be enchanted. It’s a step removed from the rest of the city, just a few yards away.

Owner Sarah Dworak packed a lot into her latest venture. She began introducing fresh takes on eastern European cuisine to the dining scene via the now-defunct Wodka Bar, and while everyone loved its pierogi window, Dworak wanted to offer more. Sudova gave her the literal space to spread her wings with far more seating and a built-out kitchen.

The frustration of summarizing Sudova is that everything, from small plates to cocktails, warrants individual review. Unfortunately, there is no stomach deep enough or column long enough to do it all justice. The good news is, you can try more than you think, especially if you bring lots of friends.

The restaurant offers the family-style equivalent of a tasting menu. Portions are designed to share with7 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

FYI

Sudova 22 W. Court St., downtown, (513) 407-7974, sudovaoncourt.com Hours Dinner Tues–Sat 5–10 p.m.

Prices $11 (green borsch)–$42 (kulebiaka) Credit Cards All major The Takeaway An enchanting journey through Ukrainian cuisine hiding in plain sight on Court Street.

PH OTO G R A PHS BY C ATHERINE VIOX

OLD WORLD CHARM (From left) Green borscht with chicken, sorrel, root vegetables, and a soft-boiled egg, and Georgian cheese bread (khachapuri) topped with an egg yolk and khmeli-suneli spices; medovik, a wildflower honey cake layered with strawberry cream and Chantilly smetana; Owner Sarah Dworak; Sudova’s gallery wall features family photos and paintings from the 19th century.

out any single dish filling you up, and while there’s enough for everyone, each plate will leave you wanting more. The advantage is that if you’re trying something new, you can take it on a casual date instead of marrying at first sight. If you fall in love, don’t worry. You can get your favorites as takeout tomorrow.

Recipes for the halushki, holubsti, and rye varenyky come straight from Dworak’s baba (grandmother) and are the jewels in Sudova’s crown. The halushki (caramelized cabbage and onion, brown butter, and Linnea’s spaetzle) smells like a memory from a family dinner, even though this never graced any of my grandparents’ tables. The vegetables are tender, and the spaetzle’s soft texture supports its partners’ natural sweetness. The aroma alone had my party trying to guess what spices it contained, but the conversation died after the first bite thanks to the power of good food.

The holubsti (baba’s stuffed cabbage rolls and tomato sauce) features ground beef and pork from Black Hawk Farms delicately seasoned for a savory balance against the surprisingly sweet tomato sauce. The cabbage holds everything together without getting in the way, and the combined flavors are startling when you expect an Italian-American-style sauce. You eat with your eyes, and Sudova pulls a fast one on your expectations.

There are two types of dumplings on the menu. Both are worth the trip, though the rye varenyky (potato, sauerkraut, caramelized onion, and dill sour cream) shine brightest. Varenyky is the Ukrainian word for pierogi, and Dworak’s work lives up to her reputation.

The exterior is so soft it almost disappears into the potato-based filling. Onion, dill, and sauerkraut build a rich, complex base to

support the rye seeds, so every mouthful is saturated with the full harmony of flavors.

The pelmeni (salt cod and potato brandade, and caviar beurre blanc) dresses miniature dumplings in a vividly tasty sauce. The combo hits salty, sweet, savory, and umami beats without missing a step, embracing everything the salted cod has to offer in a way that made me actually enjoy salted cod. The khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread, sulguni, bryndza, egg yolk, and khmeli-suneli) is the easiest large plate to share. The long, boat-shaped bread cradles the toppings with a light, chewy texture. Beware: The cheese goes deeper than you’d expect, and it’s heavy enough to prematurely end your meal.

If you want to keep a main dish to yourself, the kotleta is a great choice. The kefir-brined fried chicken is wide, thin, and a bit denser than expected, almost like a tonkatsu. Like the sweet tomato sauce, it’s unexpected but not unwelcome. The dill sauce shouts out Sudova’s favorite herb, and snap peas link everything with a pop of sweetness.

Made it to dessert? Congratulations. The medovik will see you now. Fastidiously thin layers of cake sandwich generous layers of cream in a towering stack that tastes like summer and feels like clouds. The recipe on the menu changes seasonally, and lemon poppy-seed replaced the original strawberry and wildflower honey version.

Everything is prettier than it has a right to be. Most small plates arrive dressed in herbs from Dark Wood Farm and culinary flower petals, deepening the illusion that you’ve stopped for dinner at some grandmother’s cottage deep in the woods, and she’s just picked something fresh from the garden. You should feel grateful that you don’t have to go over the hills and through the woods to get it.

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TABLESIDE WITH...

TAKEOUT HERO

ISABELLE MILLER

T H E OW N E R O F E VO LV E Bake+Shop bakes her way into a business.

How did you get into baking? I’ve been making desserts since my EasyBake Oven days. It was always fun to make treats for family parties and birthdays when I was younger.

Are you vegan? I am! I’ve been vegan for over seven years now.

Why did you decide to make vegan treats? When I went vegan, I noticed baked goods weren’t easily accessible. That’s what really got me into baking more seriously. I wanted people to have the ease of having a treat whether they were vegan or just dairy free, egg free, gluten free, etc.

Pie Parents THERE ARE PLENTY OF TASTY REASONS TO TREK TO MILFORD, INCLUDING RESTAURANTS like the popular 20 Brix and The Governor. Now, a new culinary gem has emerged: Daughter’s Pizza Kitchen, which specializes in Sicilian-style pizzas that are as hearty as they are flavorful. This carryout-only pizzeria is the latest venture from Josh and Nicole House, the husband-and-wife duo behind Pickles & Bones Barbecue. Each pizza begins with housemade dough that undergoes a meticulous two-and-a-half-day fermentation process, resulting in a crust that’s thick, fluffy, airy, and crispy. This dedication to quality extends to the toppings, with options ranging from the classic Ezzo pepperoni on The Allison to the creative combination of a mozzarella-provolone cheese blend, roasted chicken, red onion, cherry tomatoes, and basil pesto on The Madeline.

Don’t want a specialty pizza? Build your own with ingredients such as Italian sausage, herb-roasted chicken breast, shaved fennel, and blistered tomatoes. You can also choose from a selection of fresh salads and appetizers, including housemade meatballs and garlic cheese bread. There’s no dine-in option, but the friendly staff and effiDaughter’s Pizza Kitchen, 1149 cient service make picking up your order a pleasant experience.

OH-131, Milford, (513) It’s the kind of place where the flavors to speak for themselves.

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Do you work from any family recipes? No, I don’t come from a family of bakers. However, I do work from family origins. I’m half Filipina so I like to incorporate flavors from the Philippines.

You’ve participated in Asian Food Fest for the last couple of years now. Were you surprised by the response? Sometimes the word “vegan” scares people off. Being a repeat vendor has familiarized people. I sold out within three hours on both days. The conversation is becoming less about it being vegan and more about it just being a genuinely good dessert. – A I E S H A D . L I T T L E FYI Catch Isabelle at Westside Market on July 12 and City Flea on July 19. evolvebakeshop.square.site Read a longer interview with Isabelle at cincinnatimagazine.com

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“It doesn’t hurt that while doing so much good, the grounds are lovely, the camaraderie is jovial, the course is solid and the games keep it lively .”

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FOODOGRAPHY

Bee’s Knees

This brewery makes its mark with mead.

STEPPING INTO FABLED BREW WORKS in Erlanger is like being transported to The Shire in The Lord of the Rings trilogy, and there’s no better way to commemorate the experience than with a glass of mead. “We designed our taproom space with a fantasy theme in order to provide a creative outlet for our owners, some of whom grew up loving those franchises,” says co-owner Kent Wessels. “Mead historically fits into realms of fantasy, so it makes a perfect partnership.”

Mead, which dates back to medieval times, is made with fermented honey or fruit for a finish similar to wine. While it’s quite popular with the renaissance faire crowd, there are only a handful of local wineries that make it commercially and hardly any breweries that do so. That’s where Fabled comes in. “When we had the opportunity to bring in a friend of ours who was already making mead, we jumped on it,” Wessels explains.

That friend is Brad Ryles, who spent years making mead at home before opening his own meadery in Lebanon a few years back. “Mead is a lesser-known product compared to something like beer or wine, so to offer that, especially at the world-class quality Brad produces, was a no-brainer,” Wessels adds.

Fabled’s mead—which comes in fruit, honey, and carbonated, lower-alcohol “session” versions—has a dedicated following. The varieties change seasonally so there’s a new one on tap every two or three weeks, and the demand keeps growing.

—AIESHA D. LITTLE Fabled Brew Works, 331 Kenton Lands Rd., Ste. 300, Erlanger, (859) 727-2337, fabledbrew works.beer

7 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers.

The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing.

The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment.

Because of space limitations, all

CRITIC’S PICKS EMBERS The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (shrimp tempura); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or Dover sole with haricots verts and almondine) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party.

8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 9848090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken special. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, coleslaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd.

Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown.

Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from.

HIGH STEAKS

Jeff Ruby’s Culinary Entertainment’s “Steak to the Lake” meal kits have returned for another summer.

Each kit includes two 8-ounce filets, two 14-ounce strips, four 8-ounce burger patties, four brioche buns, four American cheese slices, and more.

The kits, which cost $235, come in a Jeff Ruby’sbranded insulated bag packed with ice packs for freshness.

Available through Labor Day weekend.

jeffruby.com/onlineordering

2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 3313767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

Top 10

IVORY HOUSE The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish fla-

8 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

vors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. All steaks are premium and hand-selected, the star player being the Japanese A5 Wagyu. The Ultimate Surf & Turf is a date night favorite with a 34-ounce Angus Tomahawk, four shrimp, four scallops and two lobster tails. Bluefin tuna steak is complemented by cilantro lime rice, a vegetable medley, chimichurri, and a soy ginger vinaigrette. Confit duck leg, an Ivory House specialty, is served with parsnip mash, confit beets, and berry gastrique.

The cocktails are ones you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the Death Valley Farm Old Fashioned to the Best West Lemon Drop—has an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like the rosemary syrup.

2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC. DC. $$$

SUGAR N’ SPICE This Paddock Hills diner, with other locations in Over-the-Rhine and Blue Ash, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals.

Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line.

4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513) 2423521; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 762-0390; 10275 Summit Pkwy., Blue Ash, (513) 447-6453, eatsugarnspice.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

ELI’S BBQ Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the Mason-Dixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short-order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-yourown, and the barbecue is bona fide.

KEY: No checks unless specified.

AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up Top 10

= Named a Best Restaurant March 2023.

3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957; 133 West Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 5331957, ext. 2, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana homestyle food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans.

Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee.

But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun-style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip.

6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 7812200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

AMERASIA A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Potstickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams.

Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodles, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121, kungfood.online. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $

ORIENTAL WOK When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor ICON BY CARLIE BURTON

and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longestrunning family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason.

317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.

10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics.

Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. Offerings like the lamb belly skewer with tzatziki and pickled shallots, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential.

Top 10

1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ALCOVE

Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” which are pruned by their creator, Urban Blooms, on a weekly basis. Equal care and attention went goes into Alcove’s the seasonal farm-to-table menu. It’s an uncomplicated affair featuring exceptional-but-approachable dishes. As one might expect from a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and quark salad stands out as do the stuffed mushrooms. Like the produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms (for instance, the “Denver Cut” of steak— a lean cut, taken from the shoulder—comes from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio). Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and “Eli the Farmer” all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-in-hand with quality.

1410 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 371-5700, madtree. com/locations/alcove-bar-restaurant. Brunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE APERTURE

After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. And it was worth the wait. The restaurant’s seasonal menu draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean with subtle touches, such as its wood-fired pita, elevated with za’atar seasoning and olive oil. The sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice PHOTOGRAPH BY TK FREELANCER

blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like #lemon and I’m Her, and the catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over.

900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

ATWOOD OYSTER HOUSE

While Atwood has done an excellent job of working closely with coastal purveyors to curate a focused but eclectic selection of oysters, the rest of its menu consists of southern coastal cuisine prepared with rigorous French technique.

The wild-caught fish is as fresh and deliberately sourced as the eponymous oysters, and grilled shrimp with Calabrian chili and arugula. The modern, clean-lined space, adorned with busts and oil paintings (curated with the help of neighborhood artist Alex Frank) matches the elegant food. It’s stately without being stuffy; it somehow feels both timeless and hip. Like everything else at Atwood, it’s the result of a delicate, highly successful balancing act.

1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4256, atwoodoysterhouse.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

BOCA

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like the maple tuile served with the maple mascarpone cheesecake.

In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the beef tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair.

Top 10

114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

BOUQUET RESTAURANT

Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. The restaurant is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality.

Top 10

519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetbistro. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

FIVE ON VINE

The fifth venture from Anthony Sitek and wife Haley Nutter-Sitek’s Crown Restaurant Group, Five on Vine achieves excitement through comfort food with meticulous attention to detail: the meat is butchered in-house, the bread and pasta are made from scratch, and the bacon is housecured. House-butchered beef and house-made pasta come together beautifully in the pappardelle stroganoff, served with chunks of short rib that are as tender as the noodles themselves. Thick, cleanly acidic fried green tomatoes make an appearance, as does a bountiful cioppino, a tomato-based seafood stew created by Italian American fisherman in San Francisco. Some of the dishes are pulled straight from Sitek’s own childhood, in New Jersey. “Gracie’s Meatballs,” named in honor of his grandmother, use her unique blend of raisins and pine nuts. A love letter to

the long-beloved dishes, the menu is an extended rebuttal against the tired argument that American food is bland and boring.

1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4301, fiveonvine.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and The Gobbler, turkey burger served with curried aioli, red cabbage slaw, pickled red onions, and arugula. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken flatbread: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone.

Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try a half-sandwich with a half-salad or half-soup order—a popular selection with the lunch crowd.

4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues—Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

METROPOLE

Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept popular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rusticity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The seared salmon is served with miso wild rice, asparagus, pickled bok choy, and sesame seeds. The blistered shishitos, served with burrata and preserved lemon, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors.

609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast Wed–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

MITA’S

It’s fitting that Chef/Owner Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s.

With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigre or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde.

The tacos de barriga de cerdo, which come in pairs, are made with fried pork belly, citrus gastrique, habanero slaw, huitalacoche mayo, and are served on house-made corn tortillas. But what mainly comes through is the warmhearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time.

Top 10

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co.

Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

NOLIA

Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with almost a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. The smoked chicken, for example, comes with peach Alabama barbecue sauce, greens, mirliton, and charred peach. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC,DC. $$$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned truffle fries inspire countless J U LY 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 1

WHERE TO EAT NOW

return visits.

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 7690099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

TASTE OF BELGIUM Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots.

There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts—served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town.

1135 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 396-5800, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sun, breakfast and lunch Mon, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

WILDWEED Before it opened as a restaurant, Wildweed developed a loyal fan base through the hundreds of pasta pop-ups that Chefs David and Lydia Jackman held around the city. It retains some of the freewheeling quality from that era with a palpable sense of restlessness in the food. Part of the menu changes

from week to week, based on what’s available in the woods and from local farms. You should be prepared for flavors that come from everywhere. A local vinegar is transformed into a sweet-and-sour Vietnamese nuoc cham. Tart preserved lemons, often associated with Middle Eastern cuisine, are paired with wild lobster mushrooms in ravioli. A Chinese-inspired chili oil and mushroom XO share space with local quark cheese. What makes Wildweed a place to return is that it’s always pushing itself to try something different.

1301 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4274, wildweed-restaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree— like cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (with a sunny side-up egg) is a great way to start the day. You’ll also find the much-loved French Lunch Tray, a throwback from the Jean-Robert’s Table days. Served on a cafeteria tray, the four-course meal of the bistro’s favorites changes every week and is only available at the bar for the low-for-fine-dining price of $19.

1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed– Sun, dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC. $$

COLETTE At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, Chef Danny Combs has built a more laid-back home for his focused, pristine cooking. While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on the concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes, like Brandade de Morue (a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread) and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent.

One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though we can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.

1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$

FRENCH CRUST Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart

Top 10

LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—the late JeanRobert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics.

The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 7512333, lebarboeuf.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

A TAVOLA In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and

MARKET FORCES

Popular Hyde Park deli Carl’s Deli opened its second location at Findlay Market in May. “We are beyond grateful for the opportunity to open at the historic Findlay Market,” owners Sydney Turnbull and Cameron Kurz posted on the deli’s Instagram account. “It’s an incredible honor to become part of such a cherished Cincinnati tradition.”

carlsdeli.com / findlay-market

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ICON BY CARLIE BURTON

the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowd-pleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward a decade.

The OTR outpost is closed but the second location is still going strong in the ’burbs: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty artichoke pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the zucchini mozzarella. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Rhinegeist. They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot.

as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the aged balsamic and lavender honey on the Italian cheese board to the staff ’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the non-traditional summer gazpacho, filled with crab, zucchini, peaches, and squash, or the balance of the tangy, salty, and citrusy Siciliana salad.

Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. V, DC, MS, AMEX. $

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

AL-POSTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. The wood-fired branzino with zucchini, matched with the warm, smoky taste of the Calabrian pepper, offers a flavor that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the citrusy lemon aioli on the tartare di fassone, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness.

Top 10

SOTTO

Al-Posto is an upscale southern Italian spot that reflects the same commitment to quality ingredients and delicate preparation that made its predecessor Dear such a gem. Appetizers include classic sharables like marinated olives (prepared with orange zest, rosemary, and Calabrian chile), burrata with grilled focaccia, and coppa (a cured pork served with preserved peppers and almonds), but it’s the pasta (which can be ordered as an entrée or a first course) that’s not to be missed. We recommend the Cacio e Pepe, a seemingly simple dish comprised of bucatini (similar to spaghetti, but thicker), black pepper, and a sharp pecorino Toscano. Since you’re probably wondering, “Al-Posto” roughly translates to “at the spot.” Located in the middle of Hyde Park Square, this eatery seems poised to become the culinary focal point of the neighborhood.

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 822-5154, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com.

Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$

VIA VITE

NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrated 25 years in business in 2021. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be Top 10

Via Vite serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.)

The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier,

starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors.

Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with roasted carrot puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette.

520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the creamy béchamel sauce cooked in the panko breaded and fried croquettes, or the buttery amberjack collar marinated in a Japanese citrus infused soy sauce and grilled over charcoal. Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available.

And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it kamo negi maki (grilled duck breast stuffed with organic green onions) or a chocolate crepe and matcha parfait, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in anywhere else.

11255 Reed Hartman Hwy., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—combination of crab, fish, shrimp, scallop, and vegetable tempuras, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, crispy chicken katsu with a mayo sauce,, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

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presents

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PETERLOON ESTATE 8605 HOPEWELL RD., INDIAN HILL

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Join us at the historic Peterloon Estate for a chic yet casual evening picnic.

Explore the grounds, curated picnic treats from local restaurants and sponsors, enjoy a cocktail on the terrace, or play croquet in the sunken garden with your friends.

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12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotousa.m988.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further.

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues– Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WHERE TO EAT NOW

Come for the jham bong—a seafood soup with flour noodles in a spicy broth with pork, shrimp, squid, mussels, and vegetables. Revered for its medicinal properties, the dinner-sized soup will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat.

It’s a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.

512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues– Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$ Top 10

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth

MAZUNTE Mazunte runs a culinary full-court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins.

The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven.

Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata.

5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 7850000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

NADA The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown.

You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowd-pleasers. If

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you’re biased against Brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. The crispy sprouts, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu includes crowd favorites such as Pad Thai, made with rice noodles, egg, bean sprouts, and a choice of protein. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu—like the Black Tiger Roll, one of the chef’s special sushi rolls, made with shrimp tempura, eel, shiitake mushrooms, and topped with eel sauce—are among its most vibrant offerings.

3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, rosewoodoakley.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

CARLO & JOHNNY The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit.

Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives.

9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

BUCKEYE EXPANSION

Crown Restaurant Group recently announced that it’s opening a second location of its Italian steakhouse, Losanti, in Columbus later this year. The new spot will be at 500 W. Broad Street in the Gravity development. Much like the original location in Over-the-Rhine, the menu will offer its signature dishes like prime filet Oscar-style and truffle pasta as well as seasonal specials.

ICON BY CARLIE BURTON

JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers are there for the slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime). The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers.

505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com.

Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

Top 10

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction.

And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to Top 10

mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake.

Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TEAK SUSHI & THAI

Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. With a two-sided, standalone sushi menu and a wide variety of main plates ranging from small bites to signature dishes, you have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience.

1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325 ; 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-8325, teakotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WILD GINGER

The ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evident in Wild Ginger’s signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid

seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete.

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), July 2025, Volume 58, Number 10. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 221 E. Fourth St., Ste. 130, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2025 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

7KH 6XPPLW ([SHULHQFH Located less than ten miles from downtown Cincinnati, The Summit Hotel ushers in a new era of style and sophistication in the Queen City. Anchoring the sprawling Madison Square campus, our 239-room hotel is an artful, inspiring setting for business an and pleasure.

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CINCY OBSCURA

History in Store THE 19TH CENTURY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE COMES TO LIFE IN THE FETTER GENERAL STORE

at the Heritage Village Museum. This real store was built in Boston (the original name of Owensville, Ohio) around 1866 by John Robinson, who sold it in 1868 to John Oonk. It sold again in 1879 to John C. Fetter, who operated it for 30 years, and eventually, after decades of disuse, Heritage Village Museum bought the building in 1983. Since the move to Sharonville, the general store has operated as a hyper-detailed hands-on learning experience for guests, every shelf packed with real historical items. “It’s stuff that’s been donated to the museum over time,” says Bethany Jewell, Heritage Village director of marketing and volunteer services. “There are little doorknobs, cups, writing utensils, fabric and sewing machines, tiny shoes—having a general store lends itself to organizing collections in a way that feels like things you could have bought at the time.”

The store continues to be a favorite among field-trippers with games, toys, and costumes kids can play with lining the shelves. — C L A I R E L E F T O N 8 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 5

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS VON HOLLE

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Enjoy the sweet traditions

Savor Your

MIAMI MOMENTS In 1929, Myron Timothy “Tuffy” Potter launched Tuffy’s Sandwich Shop in Oxford, Ohio — located in a small basement on Miami’s campus. It quickly became the hangout spot for generations of Miami students.

The most cherished menu item was always Tuffy’s specialty, toasted rolls. Although the sandwich shop no longer stands, this 100-year-old tradition is still a staple on campus today.