I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H M O N A D E R M AT O L O G Y
It’s Not All About the Face: A Series We often focus on our face when it comes to antiaging, but we should not forget about areas such as our neck, chest, and hands. These areas show similar signs of aging as our face, but are often neglected. This summer, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mona Foad will share how to prevent and reverse aging during a three-part series, “It’s Not All About The Face.” In Part One, we’ll focus on the natural aging process that occurs on the neck and chest and how we can rejuvenate the skin in these areas. Be sure to read Part Two in the July issue where we will focus on rejuvenating hands, and Part Three in the August issue, where we will cover body rejuvenation!
monadermatology.com
I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H M O N A D E R M AT O L O G Y
Part I: How to Rejuvenate Your Neck & Chest The skin on the neck and chest is uniquely different from the skin on our face. The neck has thinner skin, which can often be more prone to laxity or sagging. In addition, the neck and chest often receive similar amounts of daily sun exposure as the face, but can sometimes be neglected when it comes to SPF application. In addition to these environmental factors, the natural aging process brings reduced collagen production, loss of hydration, slower cellular turnover, and more. The good news is that there are many tools available to help slow down or reverse the aging process without surgery.
Lifestyle Sleep: Aim for adequate sleep as your skin cells repair overnight. If you are a side sleeper, you may develop chest wrinkles. Try sleeping on your back, using an anti-wrinkle chest pillow, or applying silicone patches at night. Hydration: Our skin loses hyaluronic acid and becomes drier as we age. Boost your natural hydration by drinking plenty of water and limiting alcohol consumption. Nutrition: Fruits and vegetables are packed with antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that contribute to skin health. You can also support your skin’s building blocks like collagen and elastin by eating good-quality protein sources rich in omega-3 fatty acids and amino acids, such as fish, chicken, eggs, and bone broth.
Skin Care Protection: Everyone should apply SPF to their neck and chest daily. This is one of the most affordable and effective ways to protect against damage from the sun, which can contribute to both skin cancer and premature aging. Discoloration: Our neck and chest get the same sun damage as our face, and you may start seeing these effects with more uneven skin tone and discoloration. Other than a sunscreen, consider incorporating products that prevent brown spots from forming, such as SkinMedica Even & Correct System, or ask your dermatologist about prescription-strength products such as Hydroquinone that you can use in short cycles. Loose Skin: SkinMedica’s Neck Correct Cream is formulated specifically for the neck and chest and is clinically proven to lift, firm, and smooth the skin. Also, consider adding a growth factor such as TNS Advanced+ Serum, which helps the skin to “act young” and is one of the only products on the market proven to address sagging skin.
Keep It Simple: If you do not want to invest in a product specifically formulated for the neck or chest, consider applying the products you are using on your face to your neck and décolleté. Common facial skincare products such as antioxidants, retinoids, and hyaluronic acid are also great choices for caring for the skin on your neck and chest.
Treatments Ban the Bands: If you are noticing banding on your neck area, one of the simplest ways to reduce this is with Botox, which recently received FDA approval for this area! Did you know that the main muscle in your neck, the platysma, can pull down your face? By relaxing the muscles in this area, the jawline appears more lifted and horizontal lines (“necklace lines”) and vertical neck bands are softened. Laxity & Sagging: If your neck is not as tight as it used to be, consider treatments to build your skin's collagen and elastin. ◊ A biostimulator, such as Sculptra, is an injection that builds your skin’s collagen and elastin. ◊ Ultrasound and radiofrequency treatments build collagen and tighten skin anywhere on the body, and have the added benefit of little to no downtime! ◊ EmFace is a muscle stimulation device with radiofrequency that tightens and lifts the skin under the chin. ◊ Ellacor Micro-coring creates the most dramatic improvement for laxity, but has more significant downtime. By removing small cores of the skin, the remaining healthy skin comes together to heal the injury, tightening skin in the process. Discoloration: Lasers and lights are great options for targeting stubborn brown and red pigment on the neck and chest. Intense Pulse Light (IPL) or Broadband Light (BBL) have little to no downtime and reduce overall discoloration after a series of three treatments. A deeper resurfacing laser, such as the Fraxel Dual, has a bit more downtime (5-7 days) but offers more dramatic results and a boost in collagen to treat fine lines, wrinkles, and texture.
Not sure where to start? Schedule a consultation with one of the providers at Mona Dermatology! During your visit, you’ll discuss your top concerns and what products and treatments are right for you. You can schedule online at monadermatology.com or by calling 513.984.4800.
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F E AT U R E S J U N E 2 02 5 FREEFLYING FOOD FAERIE, A MANNEQUIN DRESSED IN WAX-PRINTED COTTON, LEATHER, AND GOOSE FEATHERS BY YINKA SHONIBARE, IS FREE TO VIEW AT THE 21C MUSEUM HOTEL ART GALLERY.
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IFTry these YOU60LOVE SUMMER, SET IT FREE ways—concerts, museums, outdoor spaces, classes, trivia nights, volunteer opportunities—to enjoy summer in Cincinnati without spending a dime.
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On the 75th anniversary of the Korean War’s first shot, three Cincinnati veterans recall their harrowing experiences in the “forgotten war.” BY JOHN STOWELL
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I’M DABBLING WITH DUELING SAYINGS TODAY. ONE CLAIMS THE BEST THINGS IN life are free. The other says there’s no such thing as a free lunch. I’ve had the word “free” on my mind a lot lately after helping organize this month’s cover story on how to enjoy summer without spending money (page 34). We don’t present these free events, programs, classes, museums, and spaces as necessarily the best things in life in Cincinnati, though I think you’ll be surprised how many fun options you have this summer if you’re managing a tiny entertainment budget. We probably can all agree that a $100 dinner at our favorite restaurant or a $200 front-row ticket for our favorite band rank pretty highly as best things. But there’s a time and a place for everything (another good saying). Sometimes a free outdoor movie in the park, a free STEM program for the kids, free gardening classes, or free admission to the zoo is just what you need in your life. Maybe you get a rush out of finding value while saving money. Perhaps you recall a simpler time when everything seemed to be free during your childhood. Let me get back to the real meaning of the saying, though: The best parts of life are the relationships, the fulfillment, and the gratitude that money can’t buy. Better than an amazing dinner and Earth-shattering concert? You’ll have to decide that for yourself. (By the way, if you’re looking to build more relationships, check out our story about third places, “This Must Be the Place,” on page 46.) What about that mythical free lunch? There are layers here, too. You can, in fact, get a free lunch; I bought lunch for two magazine colleagues the other day, and they left (ful)filled and grateful. Yet there’s a cynical undertone beneath the saying. We’re being warned that nothing is what it appears to be on the surface—expectations or a catch usually come along with the free meal, and eventually you’ll regret doing it. Rest assured that the free things we recommend this month come with no expectations or strings attached. And lunch is optional.
J O H N F OX
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Grant Freking moonlights as a freelance writer at Cincinnati Magazine to provide weekly coverage of FC Cincinnati, and when word dropped that Cincinnati would be a host city for the FIFA Club World Cup, “my reaction was ‘better than nothing,’” he says. Freking breaks down everything you need to know about the Cup in “A Summer of Soccer” (page 17). “Despite my misgivings about the tournament’s expansion, it’s neat to see Cincinnati host multiple matches with internationally known clubs,” he says.
JASON COHEN Freelance writer and former CM Senior Editor Jason Cohen considered himself a “casual fan” of indie band The Ophelias after seeing lead vocalist (and Cincy native) Spencer Peppet perform at SXSW. Yet, when discussing the homage to her hometown in the band’s newest album, Spring Grove (page 18), Cohen learned he’d known of her work for much longer; as a local music writer he was familiar with one of her teenage bands.
CHRIS VON HOLLE In recognition of the 75th anniversary of the Korean War, freelance photographer Chris Von Holle captures the lives, then and now, of three local veterans (page 50). From new portraits to images revisiting the men’s time on duty, Von Holle says the sense of pride in their service persists. “Looking into their eyes while photographing them and then seeing those same eyes in their photos from war, that was poignant for me,” he says.
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THE OPHELIAS’ NEW ALBUM P. 18
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A SUMMER OF SOCCER World-renowned players and teams take the field at TQL Stadium this month for the Club World Cup.
GRANT FREKING
n a huge win for Queen City soccerheads, the FIFA Club World Cup comes to Cincinnati this month, two years after the city was passed over as host for the men’s 2026 World Cup—only the most widely-viewed sporting event on the globe. We missed out on the diamond ring, but we still get to throw one heck of a party. The Club World Cup (CWC)— featuring club sides instead of national teams—is a showcase opportunity for Cincinnati. The four matches here provide an uncommon chance to welcome and impress visitors who, unless they fancy craft beer, unique chili, or Joe Burrow, otherwise would have no reason to pass through the city. Here’s the background: In June 2022, FIFA, soccer’s global governing body, omitted Cincinnati from its list of host cities for the 2026 men’s World Cup, which is being held in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico. However, FIFA in December selected TQL Stadium, FC Cincinnati’s home grounds, as one of 12 stadiums across the U.S. to host four of the 63 total CWC contests this month. Newly expanded to 32 teams for 2025, the CWC is a CONTINUED ON P. 18 month-long
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ILLUSTR ATIO N BY JA S O N S N ELL
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HISTORY
JANE’S JUBILEE
The Heritage Village Museum becomes the new home of the annual Jane Austen Festival just in time to celebrate the novelist’s 250th birthday. Running June 28 & 29, the festival will include a tea party, ball, and various workshops and guest speakers. heritagevillagecincinnati.org 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U N E 2 0 2 5
SPEAK EASY
SONGS FOR REMEMBRANCE X Spencer Peppet, vocalist and guitarist of The Ophelias, hasn’t lived in Cincinnati since she left for college in 2015, yet the city hasn’t left her songwriting. The indie band’s fourth album, Spring Grove, takes its title from the cemetery and is suffused with dreams and memories of her teenage years in the Queen City. Peppet got on the phone to dissect the inspiration behind the band’s record. Julien Baker sang on your third album, 2021’s Crocus, and has now produced Spring Grove. How did you meet? We were playing in Nashville, and my friend tapped me on the shoulder and [said], “Um, that’s Julien Baker.” I slow-motion turned around, like, What? [Then] I’m on stage and I can see her mouthing the words. I was freaking out a little bit. We met at the merch table afterwards, and she’s so lovely and personable. We just hit it off. Your drummer, Mic Adams, came out as a transgender man before the making of this album. What was that like for the band? Honestly, it was pretty easy. He told us, and we were all, “Great. Awesome. So sick. Congratulations!” Then we came up with
the new bio; the marketing around the “all-girl band” stuff had been pretty intense. There are a lot of specific Cincinnati references in the lyrics. How much of that is straight from life, and how much is just using the real names for color and detail? A little bit of both. I like to keep it mysterious, right? Some of them are exact experiences, and some of them are a little bit of auto-fiction. And you’ll never know which! That said, what was the inspiration for the album and its title track? Spring Grove Cemetery, there’s so much to be inspired by. I would go hang out there with my friends during high school. I feel like all the bands of Cincinnati have drawn inspiration from Spring Grove at some point. “Spring Grove,” the song, is difficult to describe. It’s about my teenage self, from the perspective of my teenage self, and also from now, and also looking at myself from above. Do you know the Spiderman meme, where it’s like the three Spidermen all pointing at each other? That’s how I’ve been describing this song. — J A S O N C O H E N READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH SPENCER AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM PHOTOGRAPHS BY TK FREELANCER
PH OTO G R A PH (SPE A K E A S Y ) BY B ELL A PE TER S O N / (SWO RD S) U R O S PE TR OVI C /S TO C K . A D O B E .CO M / ILLU S TR ATI O N A N D I CO N BY C A R LI E B U R T O N
first settled and helped lay the foundatournament among the world’s premier club teams. tion for Cincinnati and all it continues to become,” says Pureval. FIFA President Gianni Infantino visited Cincinnati on April 11 and praised Other CWC participants include Real TQL Stadium as a “real jewel.” Madrid (Champions League title-hold“It’s really one of the most beautiful ers), Manchester City FC (best team in the soccer stadiums that I have seen,” he says. world over the last decade), and a who’s “Congratulations to you, to the club FC who of South American titans. Only two Cincinnati, to the city, to everyone who Major League Soccer outfits have qualihad the vision and the dream to make this fied: Lionel Messi’s Inter Miami CF and a reality.” the Seattle Sounders FC. TQL Stadium’s headline match is FC Since opening in May 2021, TQL Bayern Munich vs. New Zealand’s AuckStadium has hosted seven international land City FC on June 15. Bayern, who hail matches, several of which have featured from one of Cincinnati's sister the U.S women’s national cities, are the most successful team. FIFA Chief Football Ofclub in German history. Auckficer Jill Ellis, who skippered Olé, olé, olé, olé! land are the record 13-time the Americans to women’s The CWC kicks off June winners of the Oceania FootWorld Cup crowns in 2015 14 at Hard Rock Staball Confederation Champions dium in Miami, Florida, and 2019, endorsed TQL StaLeague. dium as a potential site for in a face-off between Three days later, Mexican Egypt's Al Ahly FC and the 2031 women’s World Cup Inter Miami CF. during Infantino’s visit to side CF Pachuca, the reigning Cincinnati. How cool would Concacaf Champions, take on it be for Rose Lavelle to suit up in front FC Red Bull Salzburg, an Austrian club that regularly serves as a finishing school of her home fans? for Europe’s young stars. On June 21, anNow, the CWC has elicited criticism other German power, Borussia Dortfrom players, who say the tournament’s expansion is a symbol of an increasingly mund, play Mamelodi Sundowns FC, 17-time champions of the South African crowded playing calendar that they argue Premier League. The final match on June is causing overuse-induced injuries. Play25 pits Dortmund against Ulsan HD FC, ers have publicly pondered legal challengwinners of South Korea’s K League 1 for es and strike action, but there has been three years running. zero indication that star players won’t be Cincinnati Mayor Aftab Pureval apsuiting up in the CWC. In sum, the CWC isn’t the grand peared with Infantino in April, noting prize. But the tournament, flawed as it that the city is especially proud to welcome Bayern Munich and Borussia Dortmay be, is still a prime opportunity to mund. “We are right next door to Overtake in the world’s game played by some the-Rhine, where German immigrants of its top stars.
STYLE
COUNSEL
Keith Wallick OCCUPATION: Artist STYLE: ’70s color with ’90s attire
How does your family influence your style? Growing up, my mom always told me that I better match, no matter what it is. It could be your shoes, your shirt. If it doesn’t match, don’t go outside. What is your favorite piece of clothing in your closet? My favorite piece would have to be my retro overalls, because you can layer them, and my brown bomber jacket. Besides clothing, are there any other ways you express your style? A lot of times, I try to dress with my hair—I put a lot of accessories up on there. I also express my style through my personality. I am very vibrant, very loud, and when people see me, they’re like, “Oh that’s a loud outfit,” and then they hear me and they’re like, “Oh, that’s a loud person.” How did you become an artist? I actually got into art and fashion at the same time. I used to do drawings and sketches of crochet, and I started liking the gestural lines and line art. High school is when I got into fashion design, so I incorporated that into my style. How has your culture influenced your style? I’m from L.A., so the whole L.A. style— bamboo earrings, long nails, bomber jackets, two-piece outfits. I am very L.A.influenced. What advice would you give to someone who wants to dress more boldly? If you don’t do it, someone else will. You’ve got to understand that you only live once. For me, I’m a plus-sized person, and I dress big. What you know is not going to get you far from what you know. You should express yourself and try because you never know what you might like. — D E N I S S E V I S O S O
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NAMED IN HONOR The origin of Cincinnati Washboard’s name is twofold. Pellegrini and García wanted to take inspiration from Ohio, home to two of the largest washboard manufacturers in the world. They landed on Cincinnati as a homage to their grandfather, honoring his Italian heritage through a connection to Roman leader Lucius Quinctius Cincinnatus.
THE FIND
WORLD-RENOWNED Based in Miami and manufactured in Argentina, Cincinnati Washboards sell to customers all over the world. On its website and YouTube channel, Pellegrini features his washboard-playing skills in video tutorials and covers of all different genres of music, and their product has been endorsed by big-name artists such as percussionists Dorothea Taylor, Gregg Bissonette, and Jerry Pentecost.
PICK YOUR BOARD Washboards come in large, small, and a recently released “pocketsize,” as well as with a classic or rusted panel (the rust creates a darker sound), neck strap, and finger thimbles. Its accessories, customizations, and attachments include hotel call bells, a small cymbal, and jam blocks.
ECO-FRIENDLY The frame of the washboard is made with wood from Paulownia trees—a rapidly growing tree used for reforestation purposes in South America. Paulownia wood is extremely lightweight, yet very sturdy, making the washboards easy to transport and highly sustainable.
BOARD BEATS Cincinnati Washboards proves the tool is better for making music than scrubbing clothes. —EMMA BALCOM
he washboard has been used as a makeshift percussion instrument for more than 100 years. With thimbles on their fingers, players create unique sounds by tapping the wood frame, running their fingers down the crimped metal panel, and adding other quirky attachments to the board. In 2016, cousins Lucho Pellegrini and Rodrigo García founded the first company to produce and sell fully customizable washboards as instruments: Cincinnati Washboards. The kick? The company didn’t originate in Cincinnati, or in the U. S. at all—the cousins are from Argentina. T
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EVAN YEUNG’S SCULPTURES BRING HIS IMAGINATION TO LIFE. — B R O O K E R O B I N S O N
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WHAT DO SHARKS, DRAGONS, AND MOUNTAINS
have in common? They’ve all come to life thanks to Evan Yeung, a pediatrician with an unexpected knack for sculpting. In his hands, raw materials like foam, cardboard, and chicken wire are transformed into larger-than-life creations that bring childhood imaginations to life—one fantastical piece at a time. Yeung’s artistic journey started at the University of Michigan Natural History Museum, where he worked as a tour guide and planetarium operator, surrounded by lifelike exhibits. After participating in a Museum Methods class that taught him how to mold plaster and latex into realistic creatures, he became fascinated by the process of sculpture-making. After crafting recreationally for a time, he sought to use his skills helping his wife, Pamela Pilger, create decorations for the Vacation Bible School at Hyde Park United 2 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U N E 2 O 2 5
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Methodist Church. “My wife’s goal was to transform the church into a place that captivates children,” Yeung says. “Making some of these creations allows me to exercise my own creative side, and the resources of the church give me more in terms of supplies and volunteers.” The experience elevated his craft exponentially. Each year, the church’s Vacation Bible School operates under a different theme, and Yeung challenges himself to create a lifelike sculpture that fits it. The result often leaves students speechless. Take, for example, his life-sized sculpture of a great white shark. Yeung was extremely diligent in preparing for its creation. “I stared at pictures for hours studying great white sharks’ anatomy and coloration patMADE BY HAND terns,” he says. To start, 1: Evan Yeung and his he and volunteers took sculptures. 2: Yeung carving a sculplarge foam blocks and ture form. 3: Yeung’s 45-foot silver roughed out the overall dragon at Yottaquest. shape with chainsaws, then carved and sanded it smooth, covered the 17-foot figure in a foam coat, and painted it to look as realistic as possible. A testament to the scale and quality of his work, Yeung’s sculptures have since found homes all across Greater Cincinnati. The masterpiece great white shark was given to Jungle Jim’s in Eastgate for display, a nine-foot-tall stylized lion mask was donated to the Cincinnati Zoo, and a colossal silver dragon resides at Evendale game store Yottaquest. The most rewarding part, though? “Watching kids’ eyes light up when they see our creations,” he says. “They make memories, and that is very flattering.”
PHOTO GR APHS (PORTR AIT ) BY JEREMY KR AMER / ( ALL OTHER S) COURTE SY EVAN YEUNG
T REAL ESTATE
LIBRARY LIVING
A MEMBERS-ONLY CLUB FOR BIBLIOPHILES OPENS ITS DOORS TO RESIDENTS. — S A R A H M c C O S H A M THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY HAS BEEN A TREASURED PLACE FOR QUEEN
City bibliophiles since 1835. Its unique space reflects the city’s (ahem) storied reputation, attracting book writers and readers alike. Its current membership (around 2,500) has been on the rise since 2015, part of which can be credited to the introduction of the Mercantile Apartments. According to Bobby Maly, Model Group CEO, all residents are granted a library membership upon move-in. The Mercantile Library occupies the 11th and 12th floors of the Mercantile Building at 414 Walnut St. (the founders were granted a 10,000-year lease from the building’s original owner). Since its founding, the 11th floor housed the library, and the 12th floor was used as office space. In 2022, Model Group bought the historic property to develop the 12th floor into additional library space and convert the remainder of the former office building into luxury apartments. The team went to great lengths to develop the space in a way that maintained the integrity of the Mercantile Building,
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY MODEL GROUP
integrating the apartments throughout it and its next-door neighbor, the Formica Building, which are connected by a corridor across floors 2–12. There are 172 units between the two properties: 81 on floors 2–10 of the Mercantile Building, and 91 on floors 2–13 of the Formica Building. Residents can choose from 38 distinct floor plans, from studio apartments to three-bedroom penthouses, each boasting abundant natural light and million-dollar views of the cityscape from a perspective most don’t get to enjoy.“In downtown Cincinnati, the buildings are all so beautiful on top; this is how buildings used to be designed,” Maly says. “You don’t see that from the street.” Mercantile Apartment residents can enjoy even more glorious vistas from the rooftop deck (Maly loves the view of the Big Mac Bridge and bend in the Ohio River), a perk available to library members as well. Other perks include a 24-hour fitness center, billiards lounge, indoor pet run, and concierge services. “There’s no doubt this project infused a lot of energy into the library,” Maly says. “It’s an exciting time in the Mercantile Library’s history.” J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 2 5
Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com
DR. KNOW
the marquee: “Approximately 200 10-watt incandescents illuminate the soffit in a herringbone pattern, three lines of lamps radiating to each side from the central rib, which is a continuation of the line of incandescents that run down the nose of the marquee. Eight dome lights illuminate the porcelain soffit over the entrance doors, and there is fluorescent neon tubing in the stainless steel display cases.” Despite more than 20 similarly unbearable paragraphs of molecular-level descriptions, nothing is said about the 10 little squares. Thankfully, the Westwood Historical Society has come to your rescue: The 10 stone squares were originally glass block windows that let natural light into the theater’s offices. They were replaced with dark stones in 1970 during a major rehab, which apparently meant, “Here comes the soft porn.”
Q+ A
I was a kid when Clifton residents saved the Esquire Theatre from becoming a Wendy’s in the 1980s. Back then my grandmother told me she remembered the theater fighting against becoming a garage in the 1920s. Was the Esquire almost the original Ludlow Garage? I bet you can verify this. —LAID LOW GARAGE
The rehab of the Westwood Theater on Harrison Avenue sure makes me happy. But it’s rekindled a question I’ve had since I saw movies there as a youth: What’s up with the 10 stone squares on the outside wall next to the marquee? They’re all square, but different. Do they mean something? —STONED, BUT SQUARE
DEAR STONED:
The Doctor regrets to announce his discovery of the April 1940 issue of Motion Picture Herald, a magazine devoted to movie theater design. Several pages describe the newly-opened Westwood Theater, and its depth of excruciating detail is, in a word, disturbing. For instance, about
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DEAR LAID:
The Doctor’s status as a local historical sleuth abides. As they say in the movies, your grandmother’s memory is “based on a true story.” Much like the firestorm over a planned Wendy’s replacing the Esquire in 1984, something similar occurred in 1922. It was the Clifton Theatre then, which had closed due to “lack of patronage,” and the owners planned to convert it to a garage. Cue the pitchforks! A hastily-formed Clifton Community Company successfully pressured the city’s Building Commissioner to stall issuing a permit. In Act II, they got City Council to pass an ordinance forbidding a “major garage” in any residential area without written consent from 75 percent of residents. In Act III, ILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU
the group bought out the owners, saved the theater, and were oddly silent when an undeniably “major garage” sprouted on the next block of Ludlow Avenue just four years later. This was the Ludlow Garage, which later closed in the 1950s but eventually had its own second act as Cincinnati’s legendary rock music venue. Your grandmother probably complained about it.
It’s been almost a year since the marble facade of the Albee Theater was torn down from the Cincinnati Convention Center. I know its ultimate fate hasn’t been decided, but I’m curious about where it’s being stored in the meantime. Where do you put such a massive structure? —LAST PLACE YOU LOOK DEAR LAST:
Welcome to the Doctor’s first all-theater column, and the second monthly piece in a row to use the word “facade.” And, please, it’s the Duke Energy Convention Center, thank you very much. The majestic Albee Theater across from Fountain Square, like the Esquire Theatre mentioned above, also fought valiantly against the wrecking ball. But the Albee lost, crumbling in 1977 to make way for the Westin Hotel. Its grand arched facade, however, soldiered on. The divided parts first languished in various locations (including under the Brent Spence Bridge) as proposals for its eventual fate came and went. Finally, in 1986, the marble structure was re-assembled at the newly expanded Convention Center (pre-Duke). The arch was again dismantled in September during the venue’s latest rehab (mid-Duke) and is now being stored yet again until a new sugar daddy vision for it comes forward. Where exactly is it? The Doctor has been assured, much as Indiana Jones was at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark, that it safely rests in a location that is none of his ****ing business. Check under the Brent Spence.
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J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 2 7
LIVING IN CIN BY JAY GILBERT
Daddy Don’t Rock & Roll HERE’S WHAT HAPPENED WHEN I TRIED TALKING ’BOUT MY GENERATION WITH MY FATHER.
I WROTE ONE OF THOSE LENGTHY “REACHING OUT” LETTERS TO MY FATHER FOR FATHER’S Day, hoping it might help close the chasm. Perhaps you’ve tried something like that. My letter was written in 1995 as I approached middle age and my dad was officially elderly. I didn’t send it, though. I kept working on it instead—perfecting the message, adding and subtracting, delaying. Maybe next Father’s Day. Or the next. Before I could bring myself to send anything at all, my father died. Now, on the letter’s 30th anniversary, I am sending it to you. Don’t feel obligated to write back. I just want this thing to be seen after all the time I put into it, even though it looks glaringly self-indulgent to me now. It’s more clever than earnest, but that’s my brand, isn’t it? What I wrote only scratches the surface of truly reaching out to my dad and opening up. It’s also very dated, being from the 1990s. Anyway, here it is. See what you think. 2 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U N E 2 0 2 5
DEAR DAD: WE’VE CLEARED AWAY MUCH of our baggage. I’ve forgiven your crimes against our family, and you’ve accepted the decade when my back was turned on you. But there remains one serious issue I want to fix while there’s time. It’s never stopped bothering me. So Dad, please, I beg you to accept—to appreciate and to even enjoy— rock and roll. We both love music to our core. The music I heard in our house as a kid (the big bands, Broadway shows, classical, and what’s called the Great American Songbook), I love that stuff as much as you do. But you completely reject the music of my generation. Despite my success as a rock ambassador on Cincinnati’s No. 1 rock station (WEBN has been at or near the top for a decade!), you’ve never given this music—my music—a chance. Here’s your opportunity. I’ve enclosed a homemade compact disc containing a sampling of songs from rock history (woefully incomplete, but a start). Put it in your player and follow along with this personalized guide. Play loud! 1. “Whole Lotta Love” by Led Zeppelin. I’m tossing you right into the deep end. This song has everything you hate: an endlessly repetitive guitar riff, throwaway lyrics, literal noise in the middle section, and shouting masquerading as singing. Truth be told, I don’t really expect you to understand or accept this kind of rock. Just know that Led Zeppelin is—was—one of the most popular bands in the world. Trust me when I say that few people on Earth have what it takes to play this music well, and these guys had it. Another Led Zeppelin song is widely regarded as rock’s finest eight minutes, but I chose this one to allow time for other stuff. As you’re pulling out your hearing aids, stay with me. It gets easier. 2.“Good Vibrations” by The Beach Boys. This band was originally a bunch of gawky teenaged brothers and friends who lucked into some hit records about surfing. Only four years later, they came up with what many people, including me, consider to be the greatest pop single ever. Sometimes it’s called “influential,” even though nothing since has ever sounded like it. I think what people really mean is that songs like these in the mid-1960s sent a signal that all bets were off; anything imaginable could be a hit. The Beatles get all the credit for that, but many others were breaking boundaries first. COLLAGE BY CARLIE BURTON
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LIVING IN CIN 3. “Twist and Shout” by The Beatles. Choosing only one Beatles song wasn’t easy. I’ve skipped over the “mature” Beatles (even though you’d probably like some of their later songs) and instead want to introduce you to a kick-ass rock and roll band recording their first album in one day. After the guys had marched through a bunch of material, John Lennon’s voice was tired. He wanted to come
horn section!). How could Jones create such conflicting perfections, Dad? Simply by opening his heart to the joy of any kind of music. It can be done! 6. “Jailhouse Rock” by Elvis Presley. Your peers often tell my peers that if Sinatra’s records are still selling after 50 years, that’s proof of something special in them. Well, touché: Elvis has outsold Frank for almost as long. Elvis really was something
“TWIST AND SHOUT,” DAD, IS WHY I LOVE ROCK AND ROLL. IT TEARS EVERY LIMIT TO SHREDS FOR NO OTHER REASON THAN BECAUSE LIMITS EXIST.
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back in the morning for this last song, but with no fame or clout he had no choice but to step up and give it everything he had. This is a live take with all four guys performing. You’ll hear John’s voice disintegrate at the end. And this simple shoutfest remains one of the most popular Beatles recordings ever. This, Dad, is why I love rock and roll. It tears every limit to shreds for no other reason than because limits exist. This approach in music has, I admit, tempted many of my generation to behave the same way in our real lives, and some of us have made quite a mess. Is music like this really to blame? We’ll discuss later. 4. “Bohemian Rhapsody” by Queen. The perfect song for the busy person who has just six minutes to review every musical style in Western Civilization. Enjoy some excellent musicianship, melodies, harmonies, and surprises. And remember that my generation can take or leave obtuse lyrics, so just let these slide. This song, by the way, made the Billboard charts twice, 12 years apart. [Editor’s note: And a third time in 2018.] 5. “Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin’ ” by Michael Jackson. The arranger and coproducer of this song was Quincy Jones, who oversaw absolute perfection with Count Basie’s band in 1964 for one of your favorite records, “Fly Me to the Moon” by Frank Sinatra (what a horn section!). Eighteen years later he conjured perfection again for Michael Jackson (what a
special, especially in his first burst. Also notice that these lyrics are great: punchy, clever, and, like the whole feel of this recording, fun. That’s the only meaningful metric. 7. “Subterranean Homesick Blues” by Bob Dylan. Even you must know about Bob Dylan’s lurch from folk music to rock in the mid-1960s. This song was its birth cry. And even you will notice that you’ve heard some of these lines and phrases in the wider world. Dylan is an artist who does deserve to be called “influential.” You will absolutely loathe his voice. 8. “We Didn’t Start the Fire” by Billy Joel. You missed your chance! If you had noticed this song when it came out in 1989, you could have bragged to young people that you understood more of these lyrics than they did! 9. “Enter Sandman” by Metallica. I used to feel neutral about Metallica, but then they came to Cincinnati for a concert, and I felt obligated as a WEBN DJ to go. They completely blew me away; they’re a stellar quartet of musicians. This song is from their fifth album, which made longtime fans bemoan the “softening” of their sound. Keep this in mind as you listen; you will laugh out loud. 10. “Dance to the Music (Medley at Woodstock)” by Sly and the Family Stone. I’ve been to many rock concerts (DJs get lots of free tickets!), and I’m often asked if I have a favorite one. People are surprised when I unhesitat-
ingly name Sly and the Family Stone. What a powerhouse of energy and fun this troupe delivered! No recording can compare to a real concert, but I hope this suggests something. 11. “Leader of the Band” by Dan Fogelberg. This isn’t rock at all, but I’ve included it to remind you that songs with sweet melodies and good lyrics are still making the Top 10. OK, I’ve really included it because it’s a loving tribute to a father whose passion for music inspired his son’s musical career. Despite the distances between you and me, your music-centered life can take full credit for inspiring mine. Every time I listen to this song, though, I struggle with the lyrics that ring true for me versus the lyrics that just can’t. If, as the song says, “I don’t think I’ve said I love you near enough,” we both know the reasons why. But if there’s anything that will get us closer, it will be your sincere openness to hear what I hear in rock music. YOU MIGHT BE HAPPY TO KNOW THAT rock music is becoming quaint and oldfashioned. Today’s kids are once again turning the mainstream upside down and listening to hip-hop more than rock. Baby Boomers are now yelling just like you did: That’s not music, that’s noise! Ever thus. But here’s something you should know: Your grandson Russ once left his homemade cassettes in my car, and I popped one into the player to find out what he listens to as he triples my auto insurance. Much of it was today’s music: Dave Matthews, Blues Traveler, Phish. Some of it was stuff from my own youth: Pink Floyd, Yes, Eric Clapton. (Do you know these names at all?) But then I heard drums with a muffled sound and I thought maybe the tape alignment was drifting. No, it was just a much older recording, from 1938: Benny Goodman’s “Sing Sing Sing” from his famous Carnegie Hall concert. Whaddaya know, Dad? Russ gets it. You still can, too. The Bible calls music “a joyful noise,” but all you’ve ever heard in rock music is the noise. It’s time to hear the joy. Happy Father’s Day, Jay (June 1995)
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Free If You Love Summer, Set It
Try these 60 free programs, concerts, museums, outdoor spaces, classes, trivia nights, and volunteer opportunities to enjoy summer in Cincinnati without spending a dime.
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DISCOVERY ZONES
The Cincinnati Public Library’s Discovery Pass grants free admission to learning opportunities across the county. —EMMA BALCOM AMILTON COUNTY IS HOME TO ACCLAIMED ARTS, CULTURAL, AND recreational attractions, from award-winning museums and art institutions to nationally recognized parks and historic sites. With the help of the Cincinnati & Hamilton County Public Library’s (CHPL) Discovery Pass program, established in 2019, individuals and families can reserve free admission to several of these organizations.
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The CHPL currently partners with 10 local organizations to provide entry for library cardholders. Each organization offers two annual passes, which renew at the start of the year. A single pass admits at least two adults, although the total number of visitors granted admission varies by destination. “The mission of our Discovery Pass is to cultivate limitless learning for library users by removing barriers and providing free access to local attractions,” says CHPL Programs & Events Assistant Caleb Kennedy. “It’s showing what’s cool in Cincinnati.” Anyone holding a library card, which itself is free, can reserve a Discovery Pass at chpl.org/services/discovery-pass.
I L LU S T R AT I O N BY K L AU S K R E M M E R Z
AMERICAN SIGN MUSEUM Take a self-guided tour through the 20,000-square-foot museum and learn about a century of American sign history, from vintage graphics to bright neon works to the historic 1950s Frisch’s Big Boy statue sign. (Two adults.)
CINCINNATI ART MUSEUM Have a look at more than 73,000 works from across 6,000 years of history at the CAM’s four levels of galleries, including free admission to its rotating ticketed special exhibitions. (Two adults.)
CINCINNATI MUSEUM CENTER The Discovery Pass grants access to the Cincinnati History Museum, Museum of Natural History & Science, The Children’s Museum, and special CMC exhibits. (Two adults, four children.)
GORMAN HERITAGE FARM Learn more about sustainable agriculture and life on the farm, exploring 122 acres of lush gardens, hiking trails, and the historic farmyard. Be sure to say hello to Eddie the Miniature Zebu Cow! (Two adults, four children.)
GREAT PARKS OF HAMILTON COUNTY
C O L L AG E P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E SY ( A R T W O R K / W O M A N ) 2 1 C M U S E U M H OT E L C I N C I N N AT I / ( A L L OT H E R S ) S TO C K . A D O B E .C O M
A single Discovery Pass acts as a printed dashboard pass for one motor vehicle, providing access to the county’s 22 public parks and conservation areas. (One motor vehicle.)
HARRIET BEECHER STOWE HOUSE Take a two-hour guided tour through the historic 1840s Beecher family home and 1940s Edgemont Inn, learning about its history and the power of voice as well as special exhibitions. (Two adults, two children.)
HERITAGE VILLAGE MUSEUM Immerse yourself in the simplicity of 19th century life at Heritage Village, a recreated 1800s community featuring 13 historic buildings salvaged from deterioration. (Two adults, four children.)
NANCY & DAVID WOLF HOLOCAUST & HUMANITY CENTER Learn to be an advocate for justice and maintain the memories of Holocaust victims with complete access to the center’s educative and inspiring exhibitions. (Two adults, four children.)
PYRAMID HILL SCULPTURE PARK & MUSEUM Explore more than 70 outdoor sculptures dispersed amidst the 300acre park’s hiking trails, hills, and lakes, and check out the museum’s contemporary art exhibitions and ancient works. (Two adults.)
TAFT MUSEUM OF ART The National Historic Landmark offers adults the opportunity to peruse the historic house’s collection galleries, special exhibitions, and historic Duncanson murals. (Two adults.)
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UNDER COVER, WITH NO COVER CHARGE Need to beat the summer heat or escape the rain? Try these free indoor activities. —BRIANNA CONNOCK
Museum Hotel Art 1 21c Gallery
While the hotel rooms aren’t free, you can peruse the latest works of art at 21c Museum Hotel’s gallery at no charge. The collection features multiple levels of art and rotates exhibitions to keep you coming back. 609 Walnut St., downtown, 21cmusemhotels.com/ Cincinnati.
Out the Jams Karaoke 2 Kick Mondays MOTR Pub hosts a free karaoke night every Monday from 8 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Signups start at 7:30. Just show up with your go-to song and get ready to sing your heart out. 1345 Main St., Over-the-Rhine, motrpub.com
3 Lloyd Library & Museum
The research library and exhibition space is free to the public. In addition to the permanent History of Pharmaceutical Chemistry exhibition, a second exhibit space hosts rotating shows. If you want to use the research materials, fill out the registration form beforehand or upon visitation. 917 Plum St., downtown, lloydlibrary.org.
4 The Party Source Events
The Party Source provides a few ways to sip free of charge. Weekly wine tastings are held on Saturdays 1–4 p.m., and quarterly Soiree events feature tons of food and drink samples around the store. 95 Riviera Dr., Bellevue, thepartysource.com
House Revival 5 Southgate Open Mic Night Show & Tell
Looking to be in the spotlight? The Southgate House Revival holds free weekly open mic nights on Wednesdays. Sing a song, share a story, tell a joke— the mic is yours. Signups begin at 6 p.m. 111 E. Sixth St., Newport, southgatehouse.com
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COME ON Cincinnati’s streetcar might be stuck in a loop, but ridership keeps growing. BY CARRIE BLACKMORE
A N D
IND YOUR WAY TO A RIVerfront park this summer and watch the Ohio River flow by. Pack a picnic for Washington Park and marvel at Overthe-Rhine’s historic architecture. Gawk at the tasty food and produce inside Findlay Market. Catch live music on a warm evening on Fountain Square. The Connector, Cincinnati’s streetcar, glides around all of these wallet-friendly opportunities, creating the chance to choose your own adventure along the
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TAKE A 3.6-mile loop from The Banks past arts venues and restaurants in the Central Business District to the northern reaches of Over-the-Rhine. “It’s something that allows people to quickly move around the city, and since it’s fully accessible and free it offers the opportunity to do that equitably,” says Lori Burchett, deputy director of Cincinnati streetcar services since 2022. “The Connector also reduces congestion, which is a major benefit for everyone, even people driving in the city.” The Connector began operations in 2016 with a $1 single-ride fare or $2 all-day fare. It became free in November 2020, a month after the city resumed service following a temporary pandemic shutdown. At the time, many transit services were waiving fees, Burchett says, deciding that the fare box recovery wasn’t substantial enough to warrant its collection; in Cincinnati, for example, fares represented less than 3 percent of the streetcar’s total operating costs. Ridership here soared from 530,016 rides in 2019 (the last year with a fare) to nearly 1.2 million in 2024. Making the service free certainly was the greatest catalyst for increased ridership, says Burchett, but today there are other dynamics at play to keep the numbers rising. “People are getting used to riding it after their first trip and deciding to ride it again,” she says. “They’re finding it really adds to how they enjoy the community.” The streetcar has become more efficient over the years, says Brad Thomas, a local attorney and longtime streetcar advocate, which bodes well for ridership.
P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E SY C I T Y O F C I N C I N N AT I
FREE RIDE IF YOU KNOW, YOU KNOW With a little know-how, you can get free access to iconic spaces and experiences. —EMMA BALCOM
C O L L A G E P H OT O G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y T H E N AT I O N A L U N D E R G R O U N D R A I L R O A D F R E E D O M C E N T E R / ( A L L O T H E R S ) S T O C K . A D O B E .C O M
Evening at the Art Museum 1 Thursday
“On the old ticket machines, I think you had to press 13 buttons to buy a ticket with a credit card. It was just absurd,” he says. “Making it free really has lowered the barriers to entry. You just see the streetcar and you get on. No problem.” Last year, city officials addressed the system’s biggest cause for delay by removing a bus stop near Government Square that used to cause bus backups in the streetcar lane. Thomas is pushing for other improvements to optimize the route, such as a transit-only lane on Walnut Street for buses and the streetcar and adjustments to some traffic signals along the route so streetcars could avoid more red lights. “Oh, and Sundays,” he says. “Right now the hours end at 9:30 p.m. We really should make that the same as every other day [11:30]. If you’re going to a concert or a Bengals Sunday night game, you need to be able to know that if you’re taking it down there you can ride it back.” Improvements will be made in
coming years with the assistance of two federal grants awarded to the city, says Burchett. The first grant will pay to study the current system’s needs, and the second will pay for physical infrastructure improvements; one upgrade will be installation of real-time arrival signs at each station. Stations currently display the daily schedule and inform riders that a streetcar should arrive every 12 to 15 minutes. While riders can access a free mobile app to track the streetcar, it can be confusing, particularly for out-of-town visitors, Burchett says. While some cities with modern streetcars have secured federal funding to help extend their lines— including Kansas City, which opens a 3.5-mile downtown extension in a few months and purchased eight more streetcars—there is no funding allotted for expansion in Cincinnati, Burchett says. “For now,” she says, “we’re really focusing on maintaining our system and improving our customer experience.”
CO L L AG E BY B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R
The museum’s hours are extended to 8 p.m. every Thursday, and visitors are admitted to CAM’s rotating ticketed exhibitions free of charge. 953 Eden Park Dr., Walnut Hills, cincin natiartmuseum.org
Art Center 2 Pendleton Final Friday
On the last Friday of the month, artists at the Pendleton Art Center open their studios to guests to browse hundreds of works and buy directly on site. 1310 Pendleton St., Pendleton, pendletonartcenter.com
Third Community Day 3 Fifth at the Freedom Center
Every fifth and third Sunday of the month (as well as MLK Day and Juneteenth), the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center offers free access to its galleries and educational resources about the history and modern applications of community activism. 50 E. Freedom Way, downtown, freedomcenter.org
4 Findlay Market Tour
On the second and fourth Saturdays of each month from March to December, guides lead groups of nine through 45-minute tours of Findlay Market to teach about its history, current events, and future plans. 1801 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, findlaymar ket.org
Days at the Taft Museum 5 Free
Every Sunday and Monday, the Taft Museum of Art grants free admission to all guests to view its exhibitions, galleries, historic house, and iconic Duncanson murals. 316 Pike St., downtown, taft museum.org
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BEAT THE SUMMER SLUMP
School might be out, but learning doesn’t have to be. —BRIANNA CONNOCK
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T’S SUMMERTIME, HOORAY, BUT PARENTS EVERYWHERE ARE TASKED WITH FINDING WAYS TO ENTERTAIN their children until August and the school year rolls back around. Luckily, many local museums offer free educational or creative programs for kids to continue to flex their brain muscles while out of school and, just as importantly, to keep them occupied.
FOR THE ARTSY ONES
FOR THE SCIENCE LOVERS
FOR THE THEATER KIDS
Get crafty at one of the local museum programs geared toward creativity, like the Contemporary Arts Center’s Yay! Play! program. On select Saturdays, children ages 2–10 can explore sensory stations designed to help them connect with their parents through conversation and play. The American Sign Museum’s Sign Crafting Saturdays (every fourth Saturday of the month) will teach your young one how to be a sign-making professional. The Taft Museum of Art’s next Free Family Fun Day takes place on July 27, when kids get the chance to create art inspired by furniture maker Wharton Esherick.
The Cincinnati Museum Center’s STEM Girl Program invites girls in grades 3–8 to meet women in various science/technology/engineering/ math fields and learn about their jobs through hands-on activities. You can find upcoming dates and themes on the Museum Center’s website. Aerospace Camp at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force is a one-day camp open to children in grades 5 & 6, with various dates throughout June. Students learn about the basics of rocketry and build their own model rockets. Registration is required prior to attending.
Little Acts, Big Impact: Mini Upstander Play Sessions at Nancy & David Wolf Holocaust & Humanity Center features games and songs in partnership with Children’s Theatre of Cincinnati focused on teaching kids about their unique strengths and how they can use them to stand up for others. While the kids are entertained, parents can take a free tour of the Holocaust & Humanity Center’s galleries. After the program (every second Saturday of the month), attendees get free admission to the Cincinnati Museum Center’s Children’s Museum for the day.
I L LU S T R AT I O N BY K L AU S K R E M M E R Z
A Little Something for the Effort There’s more than one way to score free tickets. —JOHN FOX
Sell Raffle Tickets at Reds Games The Reds Community Fund raises money for youth baseball and softball programs by selling Reds 50/50 raffle tickets at every home game. Volunteers receive a concessions credit for their shift and tickets to a future Reds game. mlb. com/reds/com munity
LET’S GET QUIZZICAL Test your capacity for retaining obscure knowledge and drinking beer at these free trivia nights. —CLAIRE LEFTON
1 Fabled Brew Works
This fantasy-themed brewery hosts trivia contests every Thursday at 7 p.m., but those seeking absolute victory should make sure to check social media for weekly hints and clues. 331 Kenton Lands Rd., Erlanger, fabledbrewworks.beer
2 Nature Trivia with Ash
Every other month at Urban Artifact, you’ll find science educator and founder of Queer Birders of Cincinnati, Ash Conway, running nature-themed trivia nights. Next up is “Life Under Our Feet: Soil, Fungi, & Other Organisms” at 6 p.m. July 18. 1660 Blue Rock St., Northside, artifactbeer.com
3 Northside Yacht Club
COLLAGE PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY STOCK . ADOBE .COM
Dads, Moms, and Vets at Cincinnati Zoo The Zoo offers free admission to active and retired military on Memorial Day, July 4, and Veterans Day; to moms on Mother’s Day; and to dads on Father’s Day. Groups volunteering for a day of service on Zoo grounds get free admission afterwards. cincin natizoo.org
FC Cincinnati Tickets for the West End
Volunteer at the Butterfly Show
FC Cincinnati makes free select home match tickets available to families participating in the West End Pride youth soccer teams, to nonprofits that serve the West End, and to a limited number of neighborhood residents upon request. fccincinnati.com/ community
Hundreds of volunteer shifts are available during the Krohn Conservatory’s annual Butterfly Show, continuing through August 10 with the theme Gothica Botanica. Volunteers get a free show ticket for every shift worked. cincinnati-oh.gov/ cincyparks
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Usher at Local Theaters Playhouse in the Park, Ensemble Theatre, Cincinnati Shakespeare, The Carnegie, and Memorial Hall all use volunteer ushers, who can watch the show they work when seats are available. Children’s Theatre of Cincinnati will also be seeking volunteer ushers when they reopen the Emery Theater this fall.
NSYC’s beloved Trivia Tuesdays feature two games (7 and 9 p.m.) for a full night of quizzing. Topics are extremely varied, and no two games are the same—even those on the same day. 4231 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, northsideyachtclub.com
4 Oakley Greens
This combination mini-golf club, sports bar, and restaurant offers game-show-style Fairway Feud trivia nights at 7 p.m. every Wednesday. 3065 Vandercar Way, Oakley, oakleygreens.com
5 West Side Brewing
Each trivia night at this brewery has a different pop culture theme. From Friends to Golden Girls, Quizmaster Stephanie focuses on a specific topic every other Thursday at 7 p.m. 3044 Harrison Ave., Westwood, westsidebrewing.com
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Get Out There
Check out these options and remind yourself of the real meaning of “free play.” —SARAH Mc COSHAM
1 Wasson Way
This 3.5-mile urban trail from Old Red Bank Road at Ault Park to Xavier’s campus at Dana and Montgomery roads offers a scenic workout on foot, bike, rollerblade, skateboard, hoverboard, or whatever your chosen mode of transport. wassonway.org
2 Tram Tour of Spring Grove Cemetery
Spring Grove Cemetery has been the final resting place for influential Cincinnatians since 1845. The grounds are free and open to the public, but the thought of covering 733 acres on foot makes the tram tour an appealing alternative (four times each month May through August and three times each month in September and October). 4521 Spring Grove Ave., Spring Grove Village, springgrove.org
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Behringer-Crawford Museum’s Outdoor Playscape
The three-story museum in Devou Park celebrating the region’s history also has an epic, handicap-accessible free playground filled with slides, steps, and all sorts of places for kids to explore. 1600 Montague Rd., Covington, bcmuseum.org
3 Trammel Fossil Park
This treasure hides in plain sight in an industrial pocket of Sharonville between I-75 and I-275. Bring a shovel, bucket, and sunscreen and haul home any fossils you unearth at this free park. 11935 Tramway Dr,, Sharonville, sharonville. org/facilities
5 Loveland Bike Trail
The trail is 70 miles long and runs parallel to the Little Miami River, winding its way through some of the most scenic parts of Loveland, Milford, Miami Township, Newtown, and Lebanon. Nisbet Park in Loveland is a favorite for younger kids. lovelandbike trail.com
I L LU S T R AT I O N S BY K L AU S K R E M M E R Z
HOW THE REDS GIVE BACK The team’s Community Fund invests in kids and neighborhoods far from Great American Ball Park.
—JOHN FOX
HE EMOTIONAL BOND BETWEEN A CITY’S PROFESSIONAL SPORTS team and its fans is something to behold, yet difficult to put into words. Fans often treat the organization as “our team” even though it’s a privately owned business, and they expect some loyalty in return for the privilege of wearing the city’s name on uniforms. Cincinnati and the Reds have a longer history together than any U.S. city and team, so the affection runs deep here. It’s no surprise that the Reds have one of Major League Baseball’s most active community outreach efforts. Charley Frank, executive director of the Cincinnati Reds Community Fund, is well aware of the team’s responsibility to uphold its half of the relationship. “All of us [at the Reds] understand that we’re stewards of this public trust,” he says. “Fans have loved and supported the team for more than 150 years, and we hope they will for the next 150 years.” The Community Fund is a 501c3 nonprofit with its own board and its own fundraising efforts, selling Reds 50/50 raffle tickets at all home games and hosting public events like the Redlegs Run and a poker tournament. But the group’s most impactful work, Frank says, is out in community. The Reds Youth Academy is a free year-round baseball and softball training complex for boys and girls ages 4–18, with manicured fields and indoor training and classroom facilities. Six full-time Community Fund employees run the operation with dozens of volunteer coaches, teachers, and mentors, plus occasional appearances from Reds players and alumni. Each summer the Community Fund organizes a “community makeover” in a specific
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P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E SY C I N C I N N AT I R E D S C O M M U N I T Y F U N D
neighborhood and brings together a host of partners—Cincinnati Zoo, Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati Children’s Hospital, GE Aviation, and others—to revitalize ballfields, parks, and other public spaces. The projects invest more than $1 million into each neighborhood. This summer’s work happens in Walnut Hills at Bush Recreation Center, Frederick Douglas Elementary School, Owl’s Nest Park, and other locations. Frank says one of the highlights most summers is the Urban Learning Garden installed by Zoo staff to grow pollinator plants that are eventually installed at the Zoo or in the community. “The makeover efforts have so many layers beyond baseball,” he says. “Our goal is to pick the right projects so we can impact every kid in the chosen neighborhood, whether or not they ever play baseball or softball.” The last three makeover neighborhoods were Lincoln Heights, Avondale, and Bond Hill, says Frank. The Reds Community Fund also hosts outreach programs in Louisville, where the Reds’ Triple-A team plays, as well as Middletown and Dayton, Ohio (Single-A affiliate). Volunteers fuel the Reds’ work in the community, from selling raffle tickets at Great American Ball Park to coaching baseball and softball teams to clearing trash from public spaces and planting trees. It’s a fun opportunity to give back to the team as it gives back to the community, which feels so Cincinnati.
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GO GREEN WITHOUT GREENBACKS
Classes, web shows, and seed giveaways can help you be a friend to the environment. —ADDISON BURKE
their unique characteristics to help maintain a healthy garden ecosystem in your own backyard. New episodes debut every other Wednesday on YouTube. civicgardencenter.org/botany-bistro
COMPOST TOUR Interested in learning how to compost? The Civic Garden Center of Greater Cincinnati is hosting a free program to demonstrate equipment and teach how to implement composting into your daily practices. Tours repeat throughout the summer. civicgardencenter.org/events
COVER CROPS FOR RAISED BED & SMALL GARDEN Cover crops are just as important in small gardens as they are on large farms. Learn how they can improve soil health, support pollinators, and manage weeds, all of which will extend your garden’s health and longevity. The Hamilton County Conservation District hosts the class from 6 to 8 p.m. July 16. Registration is required. hcswcd.org/programs--workshops
REDUCING YOUR LAWN FOR POLLINATORS Pollinators play a vital role in helping your plants thrive, so this program shares information about plants that are beautiful for your yard as well as beneficial to pollinators. Learn how to remove turf grass, prepare your soil, select seeds and plants best for your yard, and maintain the plants over time. Participants will receive a code for discounted seeds at Ohio Prairie Nursery. The Hamilton County Conservation District hosts the class from 6 to 7:30 p.m. August 11. Registration is required. hcswcd.org/programs--workshops
CAMPBELL COUNTY SEED LIBRARY UMMER IS YOUR BIG CHANCE TO SPRUCE UP THE BACKYARD and start or expand a garden, both of which can be intimidating to take on if you don’t know how or where to start. Here are a handful of free programs and resources to help you get going; supplies and equipment, of course, are on you to buy or borrow.
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BOTANY BISTRO All throughout the summer, Season 2 of the Civic Garden Center of Greater Cincinnati’s Botany Bistro web series will focus on 24 different plant families and explore
The Newport, Cold Spring, Alexandria, and Ft. Thomas branches of the Campbell County library system are offering a free seed library. Anyone is welcome to take up to six seed packets to bring their home gardens to life. Available seeds include vegetables, flowers, and herbs to help promote food security, sustainable food production, and beautification. camp bellkyconservation.org/seed-library I L LU S T R AT I O N BY K L AU S K R E M M E R Z
Learning and Networking
COLLAGE PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY (SOUL POCKET) MARK GARRET T / (ALL OTHERS) STOCK . ADOBE .COM
Connect with others, learn something new, or get training at no cost. —DENISSE VISOSO
Community Yoga in the Park
KEEP ON ROCKING IN THE FREE WORLD
Meditate and release your stress with downward dog and mountain pose each Saturday at 11 a.m. during 45-minute group yoga classes in Burnet Woods. All experience levels are welcome to the sessions led by World Peace Yoga. 3251 Brookline Ave., Clifton, cincinnatiparks foundation.org
Listen to live music, watch a movie under the stars, or make new friends. —CARRIE BLACKMORE
at Blue Ash Towne Square 1 Concerts
Check out the newly redesigned square on Cooper Road at “Park Pour Concerts” 8–10 p.m. every Friday. Bands include Soul Pocket June 6, Second Wind June 27, and The Eagles Project August 15. blueashparks andrec.com/parks
2 Concerts at Smale Park
Rockin’ the Roebling is 6–10 p.m. every Thursday on the Schmidlapp Event Lawn next to Moerlein Lager House, featuring DJs and bands. Music at the Esplanade is 5–7 p.m. Saturdays at the Castellini Esplanade, with bands and food trucks. cincinnatioh.gov/cincyparks
Cincinnati COOKS! Culinary Job Training Freestore Foodbank’s Cincinnati COOKS! is a 10-week culinary job-training course on commercial kitchen and professional culinary skills, food safety, and more. Classes take place 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Monday–Friday. 112 E. Liberty St., Over-the-Rhine, freestorefoodbank. org/cincinnati-cooks
Recovery Support Groups NAMI Southwest Ohio offers peer-led, 90-minute support groups for adults experiencing symptoms of a mental health condition, taking place both in-person and virtually on various days, times, and locations every week. namiswoh.org
Wave Pool Community Ceramic Classes The team of ceramics artists at Camp Washington’s Wave Pool arts center teaches students basic ceramics skills from 10 a.m. to noon on Saturdays. 2940 Colerain Ave., Camp Washington, wavepool gallery.org
Women’s Initiative Connections The Northern Kentucky Chamber hosts female professionals for Monday happy hours from 4 to 6 p.m. Monthly Tuesday coffee klatches at 8 a.m. let you network with likeminded business leaders at rotating Northern Kentucky locations. busi ness.nkychamber. com/events
P H OTO G R A P H C O U R T E SY C I N C I N N AT I PA R K S F O U N DAT I O N / C O L L AG E BY B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R
Pianos on Fountain Square 3 Dueling
“Queen City Keyed Up” is a new high-energy show featuring talented pianists going head-to-head 7–10 p.m. every Friday through August 29. Request your favorite song and sing along! myfountainsquare. com
Movies at 4 Outdoor Washington Park
“Summer Cinema” is 9–11 p.m. every Tuesday on the Civic Lawn, highlighted by Wicked June 24, Captain America: Brave New World August 12, and Lilo and Stitch September 23. washingtonpark.org
5 Social Club for Women
Cincy Girls Who is a social club on a mission to “fight loneliness and ignite connections through movement, wellness, and community.” There are free events for women every month, including outdoor walks, volunteer opportunities, and social meet-ups. cincygirlswho.com
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THIS MUST B E the PLACE
by Mackenzie Manley photoap by Devyn Glista 4 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3
Join the post-pandemic search for public spaces where people can interact with friends, neighbors, and strangers to build community—not just conduct business. P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S
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D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 4 7
Elijah Knapp
)& Avery (left Lillabea
home away from home.” One attribute of third places is how they can foster connection. Especially after the pandemic’s onset, talk of isolation in an increasingly digitized world has been prevalent. In May 2023, U.S. Surgeon General Vivek Elliott Coffee Murthy declared loneliness a public health epidemic. According lliott Coffee in Dayton, Kento a poll published by the American tucky, was a gas station not Psychiatric Association in early 2024, that long ago. Situated along 30 percent of adults say they’ve expeSixth Avenue, the off-white building is rienced feelings of loneliness at least bedecked with a smiling moon. After once a week over the past year. Ten perordering coffee or food, customers can cent said they felt lonely every day, and choose to sit outside at tables where gas those aged 18–34 were most likely to pumps once stood or take a short walk to claim such feelings. hang out in a former garage that’s now an In the same poll, respondents were inviting space complete with plants and most likely to feel a sense of commuwall art. Honey-hued light pours in from nity and belonging among their family large windows on sunny afternoons, (65 percent) and friends (53 percent) and basking the wood tones with warmth. in their neighborhoods (20 percent). On this particular day, a group deVikas Mehta, a professor of urbanbates which card game to play. Some ism at the University of Cincinnati, drink lattes in earth-toned mugs or sip says that third places have a real role iced drinks. Others twirl yellow daisy when considering loneliness in the poms—the cafe has free-to-take flowpublic health realm. “Whether they beers today—between their hands. come a part of a routine, your rhythm A black dog sits politely in one paof life, to see others or meet somebody tron’s lap. Chatter rises and falls. A regularly in your neighborhood, they’re barista floats among tables delivering quite critical to fighting that sort of drinks. A parent holds her baby, who is loneliness,” he says. “There isn’t a lot of gently cooing. Some people simply sit research on that yet, but there’s a direct and read, flipping pages in silence. link to it in terms of health.” Opened in summer 2024 by Elijah Speaking on public libraries as a Knapp, his wife Isabelle, and his broththird space, Mehta says they’re a “real er Asa, Elliott was launched with the social, psychological support for peoconcept of third places in mind. “We ple who are have-nots, people in bestarted with the essential idea of how tween, and haves because you may not a space affects people more than just be homeless, but you might be elderly the product,” Knapp says. “In a sense, and lonely and your library is the place I think the reason cafés thrive is that to go and chitchat and borrow a book.” people are looking for spaces to call Of course, third places can be a host of
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P H O T O G R A P H S ( M E R C A N T I L E L I B R A R Y ) B Y C A T H E R I N E V I O X / ( C I N C I N N A T I P U B L I C L I B R A R Y ) C O U R T E S Y C I N C I N N A T I P U B L I C L I B R A R Y/ ( C I N C I N N A T I A R T M U S E U M ) C O U R T E S Y C I N C I N N A T I A R T M U S E U M
“ In a sense, I think the reason cafés thrive is that people are looking for spaces to call home away from home.” - Elijah Knapp locations beyond libraries: bookstores, cafés, barber shops, bars, taverns, or essentially any place one might connect with others. Mehta recently wrote an encyclopedia entry defining third places, which he differentiates from public spaces. “A third place is a place other than the home or workplace,” he writes, “where people can regularly visit and commune with friends, neighbors, and strangers.” Unlike public spaces, third places can be private even while providing a sense of belonging and social capital— all of which helps build the foundation of a civil society, civic engagement, and democracy. he term “third place” was first coined by American sociologist Ray Oldenburg in his 1989 book The Great Good Place, where he lays out the importance of having so-called third places where people can connect outside of the home (first place) or work (second place). Whether dwindling or rising in number, “third place” has certainly become a buzzword in post-pandemic years. The New York Times published an article in February asking “Where Have All the ‘Third Places’ Gone?” Similarly, Vox ran a story in May 2024 titled “If you want to belong, find a third place.” Starbucks evoked Oldenburg in the company’s “bold vision” of reclaiming third places in late 2024. Last summer, Columbia University Business School published a study about the “power of third places” that examined how the presence of Starbucks cafés could increase the number of startups launched in neighborhoods. The school posited that introducing a Starbucks could boost entrepreneurship between 2.3 and 11.8 percent in any given neighborhood lacking such places to network. Mehta says the popularity of the
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term “third place” has gained legs in contemporary times. His purpose in writing the encyclopedia entry was not just to define the term’s origins but to explain where the concept was situated in the present. “I would say, 15 or so years ago, Starbucks started to use the term ‘third places,’ ” he says. “There’s been a very quick sort of corporatization of the idea because it’s nice and warm terminology. Your third place is convivial. You can connect with people. It’s a sense of community.” In Mehta’s entry, he writes that there was a general concern in the 1970s and ’80s of urban social life eroding due to the post-World War II emphasis on a culture of privacy and individual comforts. That’s what Oldenburg reacted to with his argument in favor of third places. Mehta says Oldenburg introduced the term as a way to say that American society was now largely working on a two-legged stool of work and home. In the ’90s, American cities saw a return to urban life as they regenerated their centers; at the same time, coffee culture was taking hold in American cities. Then corporations started using the term. Yet Mehta points out that just because a business sells coffee or slings beers doesn’t necessarily mean it functions as a third place. “Oldenburg had actually found that these places were where people interacted with others, somewhat familiar and sometimes not even familiar,” he says. “It’s somebody in your neighborhood who you’ve seen but now you’re sitting around in the same place so you can chitchat or find a common interest. That’s what he figured out actually built a lot of social capital.” Mehta describes third places as “homely, Continued on page 61 PA G E 4 9
Mercantile Library
Cincinnati Public Library
Cincinnati Art Museum
RIS photog raphs by C H
VO N H O L L E
On the 75 t h anniversary oof a ’s fiirrsstt shot, thhee Korean War ll thhrreeee C incinnati veterans reca thheeiirr haarrrroowwiinngg perienc in thhee “foorrggoo en war.”
by JOHN
STOWELL
Impossible to Forget 50
50
DECEMBER 2013
JU LE S FR EE DM AN
JO HN MU RR AY
DECEMBER 2013
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Memories of a Lifetime
RUSS CARLSON SHARES PHOTOGRAPHS OF HIS SERVICE IN KOREA (OPPOSITE PAGE), AND JULES FREEDMAN RECALLS WHEN MARILYN MONROE ENTERTAINED THE TROOPS (TOP) AT THE FRONT.
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you had to will your bones and muscles to move. Only the fear and the rush of adrenalin kept you from falling into a fatal slumber. Russ Carlson, then an 18-year-old kid from suburban Cincinnati, pounded the North Korean hillside with his entrenching tool. It was no use. The ground was frozen solid, and, in the dimming light of a setting sun, he managed to scrape out just a shallow impression that offered him little protection. Carlson and his unit of the First Marines/Third Battalion/Fifth Regiment were holding ground 40 miles south of the Chinese border, expecting orders to continue their push north to the Yalu River. This was the Korean War—the “forgotten war” as history has dubbed it. But for Carlson, John Murray, and Jules Freedman, Cincinnatians now in their 90s, the memories are still fresh. Their war is far from forgotten. Carlson, Murray, and Freedman don’t share war stories when they and more than a dozen others who served their country in Korea get together each month. The Korean War Veterans Association meeting at the Sharonville VFW starts with a prayer and the Pledge of Allegiance, followed by an orderly transaction of business. Memories of death and carnage are better left unspoken. The North Korean army invaded South Korea on June 25, 1950, with the goal of uniting a peninsula few Americans could find on a map. The South Korean military was overwhelmed, and Seoul fell in three days. The U.S. had only advisers in the country at the time, but that soon changed. By the time Carlson, who had joined the Marine reserves as a 16-year-old high school junior, was called up, fortunes had turned. Technically, it was the United Nations that voted to intervene, but in reality the U.S. led the charge. Within five months, North Koreans had been expelled from South Korea and U.N. troops had raced north of the 38th Parallel, steadily approaching the Chinese border. “I landed at the port of Wonsan,” recalls Carlson, now 93 and living in Blue Ash. “It took us three days up and down the coast just to land because there were so many mines in the harbor. They jokingly called it Operation Yo-Yo.” Although he’d been trained as a rifleman, Carlson was assigned to a machine gun unit, where he quickly learned how to load, fire, and strip the 30-caliber weapon. U.S. Marines have had their unique touchstone moments. The Halls of Montezuma. The shores of Tripoli. The savage World War I Battle of Belleau Wood. Iwo Jima and Guadalcanal. Khe Sanh and Hue. Fallujah and Ramadi. And the Chosin Reservoir. “We were told there were no Chinese around and that if there were, they were just a bunch of laundrymen,” Carlson says with a wry laugh. “But then one of our platoons captured what we assumed was a North Korean soldier until our translator told us, No, he’s speaking Chinese.” The Korean War killed 36,574 Americans and wounded
more than 103,000. To this day, more than 7,400 remain listed as missing in action. The first shots of the Cold War were fired in Korea. Americans heard the term “domino theory” for the first time. If Korea fell, we were told, all of Asia would come under Communist control. It’s the only U.S. war that didn’t end in a peace treaty. “I believe it was the right war to fight,” says Murray, who’d just graduated from Purcell High School when he landed in Korea in late 1952. “We needed to make a stand, and we did. Millions of people today have better lives because of what we did.”
CHINA’S LEADERS, ALARMED as the United Nations troops approached their southern border, had quietly mobilized nine divisions and crossed the Yalu River into North Korea under the cover of darkness in November 1950. Their plan was to surround and destroy the U.N. troops. Winter came early that year, and it was already bitterly cold in the mountainous terrain surrounding the reservoir. Russ Carlson knew there was danger on the ridges above his position, but it was too late in the day to move to higher ground. It was pitch black when the bugles sounded. Mortar explosions blasted the American line, followed by waves of Chinese soldiers, screaming as they attacked. The noise was deafening, and the landscape
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was illuminated by the pinprick glow of thousands of tracer bullets—ours flashed red, theirs green. A Marine next to him fired a burp gun, mowing down several Chinese just feet away. Another used his rifle butt to fend off attackers. Carlson kept up steady fire from his machine gun as a grenade exploded nearby and shrapnel tore into his back. He kept fighting. “It was a hard fight because you couldn’t see them until they were right on you,” he recalls. “It was so cold that the light coat of oil for our weapons froze and the guns weren’t working very well.” The American line held and, when dawn broke, Carlson counted 17 dead Chinese soldiers just feet from their crudely scraped firing holes. He remembers how lightly dressed they were considering the weather conditions. “They were even less prepared for the cold than we were,” he says. Their food supply, too, was meager—each dead soldier carried seven small bags of rice tied to his cartridge belt, each “the size of a garlic clove.” The Chinese, though, had closed the vise. The Marines were surrounded and had to fight their way south to safety. Or as the commanding general, Oliver P. Smith, famously said, Retreat, hell! We’re advancing in a different direction. It was a grueling, dangerous withdrawal
down a narrow, ice-covered road with ridges and cliffs, hairpin curves and steep dropoffs. Snow swirled, and the temperature plunged to 40 below zero. Frostbite and hypothermia dogged the bedraggled Marines who struggled in the mountainous terrain. The convoy frequently stopped due to roadblocks or choke points where Chinese snipers had to be cleared from the high ground. The bitter cold stalled truck engines. Sometimes they slid off the road. Carrying boxes of ammo or the 45-pound machine gun and tripod, Carlson and his team patrolled the ridges to the right of the convoy, trying to clear Chinese from high ground. “I never expected I’d survive,” he says. He credits Marine Corsair fighter aircraft with softening up the enemy just enough for the convoy to make it to safer ground at Hagaru and eventually to be evacuated by sea at Hungnam. “When we got to the port, we were called to attention and marched in together singing the Marine Corps hymn,” he says proudly. Carlson’s war wasn’t over yet. He served through most of 1951 in South Korea, participating in several battles before finally shipping out.
BY THE TIME JOHN MURRAY’S troop transport ship landed at the port of Pusan in fall 1952, the war had entered a Continued on page 64 static phase.
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lence, Accountability, and Trust.) • Many committees and work groups give employees the chance to make a difference in their daily work lives. • A robust recognition program ensures employees get rewards for jobs well done. • Open communication is valued and enhanced through semi-annual town hall meetings, quarterly management meetings, and monthly Table Talks. • Metro’s internal Diversity, Equity, & Inclusion Department offers multiple opportunities to celebrate our differences and highlight our collective value. CAN YOU SHARE SOME EXAMPLES OF POSITIVE OUTCOMES OR INITIATIVES RELATED TO CREATING A MORE INCLUSIVE WORKPLACE? • Creating a partnership with the U.S. Small Business Administration to increase support and resources for small and disadvantaged businesses in our region and their opportunities of doing
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unpretentious, and easygoing with a low profile,” which provide an air of openness and accessibility. “But perhaps the two most important characteristics of a third place are that it is a neutral ground where people have no obligations and are free to come and go, and that it acts as a leveler, where one’s socioeconomic status does not affect participation.” Knapp says one of his goals with Elliott Coffee is to create human-centered experiences. “We need fewer things that feel like they’re driven by money or growth or
ing in places where traditionally gathering wasn’t formalized,” he says, using Yard & Co.’s office on Pleasant Street as an example. He describes that street as a tight area where people from all walks of life live. “Any time the weather outside is even close to being nice, they’re taking over the street after the sun goes down and treating Pleasant Street as a between-work-andhome place,” he says. “Our work at Yard & Co. tries to tap into that innate human desire to be social and do it in terms that you don’t have to think about what you’re wearing or what you’re going to say or who might even be there that you want to avoid or seek out. You can just be yourself, more vernacular or casual, and just show up as you are.” Another local example Nickol notes is Walnut Hills’s Five Points Alley, which is billed as a community courtyard. While no longer actively involved in Five Points, Yard & Co. cofounder Kevin Wright had a central
“WE NEED FEWER THINGS THAT FEEL LIKE THEY’RE DRIVEN BY MONEY AND MORE THINGS DRIVEN BY DEPTH OF ACTUAL HUMAN CONNECTION,” SAYS ELIJAH KNAPP. volume and more things that are driven by depth of actual human connection,” he says. If he were to list the most important aspects of his lifestyle, Knapp—who lives four blocks from Elliott Coffee with his wife and young son—says he’d want a cozy home, friends, and a handful of places where he could be a regular that are within walking distance of his house. Joe Nickol of Yard & Co., the Over-theRhine-based urban design/build studio, says that when he thinks of third places, Elliott Coffee floats to the top of his list. That nod comes with a bit of a bias: Yard & Co. owns the old gas station building housing Elliott. Nickol says every member of the shop’s workplace embodies the idea that the café is a place to stop and slow down. “The need for third places is so great and our collective ability to deliver them at scale is so challenged that, just out of pure demand, we’re seeing rapid innovation in terms of gather-
role in bringing it to life. Nickol points to two ways it functions as a third place: It serves as a place to have hard face-to-face conversations in a changing neighborhood, and it’s an economic generator that’s helped bring new life to surrounding buildings. “In that case, it became a third place, just not in the way we traditionally think about it,” says Nickol. “But it was a third place in that it was shared between many different users who directly access the space.” NICKOL’S BACKGROUND IS IN ARCHITECture, but he originally wanted to design large-scale spaces like stadiums and airports. The closest thing he had to a third place growing up was his dad’s barber shop. When he was a junior in college, he studied in Rome and, for the first time, enjoyed a walkable city. “Within a very short amount of time, even though Italian wasn’t my native tongue, I became a part of that commu-
nity because of what third places allow, the sense of welcoming and belonging,” he recalls, adding that the experience led to his career path of designing neighborhoods and downtown areas. After living in Pittsburgh for a decade, Nickol got married in 2010 and settled in Cincinnati six years later. The same year, he and Wright wrote The Neighborhood Playbook through People’s Liberty, the nonprofit entrepreneurship program that invested in civic-minded creative projects. When thinking of third places, Nickol says we have to start viewing them as part of public infrastructure. “As a collective mindset, we have to start valuing these shared experiences and these shared places as just as important or even more important than historically because of the virtualization of the world,” he says. “And we’re starting to see this in the market. It’s just as important as access to good schools, jobs, public spaces, and natural areas. Third places are starting to be the reason people buy a house in a certain place.” Cincinnati has seen a boom in institutions renovating their spaces with gathering in mind. The Cincinnati and Hamilton County Public Library has been unveiling renovations across its 41 branches as part of a Facility Master Plan; notably, the Main Library downtown reopened last summer with redesigned meeting rooms, interactive areas for kids and teens, and a new outdoor plaza where the public can relax, gather, and connect. The Mercantile Library reopened its doors in December after a year of renovations. Along with being able to add up to 20,000 more books, the member-based library now has new spaces for meeting, studying, and working. The crown jewel might just be the cozy club room, complete with a fireplace, lush green velvet seating, and city views. Amy Hunter, director of community and experience, says creating more space for people to connect was one of the goals of the Mercantile’s $5.3 million renovation project. “When we were founded in 1835, connecting and networking was basically one of the things we were chartered for,” she says, adding that the founders knew intellectually and culturally the goal could better J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 1
THIS MUST BE THE PLACE be reached together. “We want people to find their people here, and it happens a lot,” says Hunter. “We’ve got something for everybody, from the ridiculous to the sublime to the esoteric and the eccentric, and everything in between.” Hunter has worked at the Mercantile for nine years. In that time, she’s seen members grow from simply joining to serving on the board of trustees or leading a book club. And the small staff of eight is linked by a common interest: They love books. “We’re here for our members,” says Hunter. “It’s funny because we’ll have members come in and say, Oh, I don’t want to bother you while you’re working, but no, we’re here for you. It’s been really rewarding, especially after having been closed, to see so many friends again.” Like Nickol, Hunter grew up in an area lacking access to third places. During childhood in a small farm town, her favor-
ite place to be was (and still is) in a book. The Mercantile hosts multiple book clubs as well as other programming like yoga and writing workshops. “Talking about books with other people and coming across a book that I or members wouldn’t have sought out builds community,” Hunter says. “Whether people like the same things I read or hate it, it’s still a really valuable conversation that happens in person.” THE CINCINNATI ART MUSEUM ALSO UNveiled a renovated ground level in December, with new rooms, resources, and amenities like a common area for schools, classrooms, study rooms, and other updates. Emily Agricola Holtrop, the museum’s director of learning and interpretation, says the renovations allow school groups to have lunch at the museum, more art-making programs for all ages, and additional ticketed programs. When not being used by schools during field trips, the classrooms and common areas can be the
perfect place for families to chill, groups to eat, or people to read and study. Holtrop says the museum’s free admission also helps break down perceived barriers for anyone who might feel like it isn’t for them. She says any time she can be in the gallery with visitors is a great day of work, seeing people make connections with art, staff, and each other as they go through CAM’s collection. “Allowing people just to connect and get out of the way of that connection, I think, is one of the most important things we do,” she says. The museum’s post-pandemic programs have been popular, says Holtrop, attracting everyone from empty-nesters wanting to meet others with similar interests to friend groups to anyone looking to make a connection. “We have people who tell us that the museum is their church, that they find a lot of solace and spiritual connection here,” she says. “It’s a place to be calm and content and put the world away, an escape very similar to what
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people experience at church, but then we also have families coming who just want to teach their kids about history and culture.” Knapp says people need places like Elliott Coffee where you can randomly connect with others; he met his wife when he took her order at a coffee shop. That kind of connection probably wouldn’t happen at, say, a Buffalo Wild Wings, Knapp suggests. “That’s not the priority of those restaurant spaces,” Knapp says. “The space has to be designed to be interactive so that people have a chance to know someone’s name, know a little more about them, and connect them with other people. I think if we’re just experiencing efficient places, then we really are more isolated.” In the time Elliott Coffee has been open, Knapp has regularly observed these could-be transient connections, like strangers meeting in line and returning another day as friends or neighbors exclaiming, Oh, you live over there? While opening a café is not the most revenue-
centric decision, Knapp says he and his business partners measure success by their people-building connections and friendships. “We want something that we want to see in a neighborhood,” Knapp says of Elliott Coffee. “It’s the concept of the old tavern or the general store. You know, it’s You live right there and run the store downstairs. Obviously, we’re in a different era of human existence, but I think there’s a really important renaissance happening.” On a walk through Dayton, Knapp says he’s likely to see someone he knows; the majority of small businesses in the area are run by people who live nearby. In the internet age, the power of even a short interaction—like someone taking your coffee order or running into an acquaintance— shouldn’t be underestimated. It’s a sentiment Knapp understands well. If people feel lonely and cynical, he says, their social media feeds will reflect that attitude. And most passing interac-
tions might feel like you’re inconveniencing the other person. “But here at Elliott, we really draw out the ordering experience,” he says. “To me, you’re not just coming to get a coffee. There’s some power in knowing that someone is looking you in the eyes, seeing you as a human being, and knowing you have something to offer just by being in the same space.” Mehta’s encyclopedia entry notes that virtual third spaces like chat rooms and group texts can offer connection or a sense of safety among people with shared interests. He also says the divide between home and work has grown even fuzzier postCOVID. “If you’re able to find an amenity within walking distance in your neighborhood, that’s very useful from an equity perspective and from a health perspective,” he says. “But if that place can also be a third place, that’s an added advantage for sense of community, social cohesion, and so on and so forth.”
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Peace negotiations had been off-and-on for a year. Blood was still being shed every day as each side tried to gain a mile here or a ridge there to enhance their positions at the negotiating table. Back home, the war was playing second fiddle to the presidential campaign, the Dodgers-Yankees World Series, and the impending birth of Little Ricky on I Love Lucy. Americans were tired of war. Murray, now 92, had just graduated from Purcell High School and was the proud owner of a 1940 Ford convertible he describes as “a hot rod which, of course, you had to
the air temperature rise, stand up and look at it.” Murray saw the fearsome mushroom cloud rise and then watched in shock as “the ground started coming at me.” Jeeps, mannequins, tanks, and discarded automobiles had been placed at different intervals, and Murray walked with his fellow Marine volunteers about a third of the way toward the blast zone, dressed only in civilian clothes, to examine the explosion’s effects. “They put a Geiger counter on all us afterwards and nothing clicked, so I was fine,” he says, laughing. In the month following, before boarding a troop carrier to Korea, he received a 30-day pass. “I swam at Coney Island’s Sunlite Pool every day, ate Big Boys, drank beer, and broke up with my girlfriend,” he says. Like Carlson, Murray was told he was to be a machine gunner. And like Carlson, he was assigned to First Marines/Third Battalion/Fifth Marine Regiment. But Carlson and Murray were ships passing in the night, never serving together. They finally met
“THEY SHOT AND KILLED AS MANY OF OUR GUYS AS THEY COULD AND TOOK PRISONERS WHO TODAY ARE STILL MISSING,” SAYS JOHN MURRAY. “MY BEST FRIEND WAS KILLED.” drive with your arm hung out and a pack of cigarettes rolled up in your T-shirt.” He had a good job, but the Marines offered him something he knew he lacked: discipline. He trained to be a mortarman and had every expectation, as the war heated up, that he would be bound for Korea. But first came the chance for an unexpected detour. The Marines put out the word asking for volunteers to, as Murray puts it, “learn the ropes about atomic warfare.” Hiroshima and Nagasaki were just a few years in the rearview mirror, and the military was steadily testing and improving the lethal efficiency of its atomic weapons.“Learning the ropes,” as it turned out, was being a witness to a nuclear blast and seeing how you fared. So Murray shipped out to Nevada as a human guinea pig to crouch in a bunker and wait. “It scared the hell out of me,” he recalls. “I was 4,500 yards from ground zero, and they told us to get down and, once we felt 6 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U N E 2 0 2 5
each other just two years ago. Murray was sent to the front right away and saw action. His platoon was on a reconnaissance patrol at the base of a hill the Marines occupied when they ran into a Chinese ambush. “They were hidden in a V-formation,” he says, “and we walked right into the V.” Murray picks up a fuzzy black and white photo of his fellow squad leader, A.C. Clark, a grinning, virtually toothless platoon sergeant who won a Silver Star that day for leading the men out of harm’s way. In late 1952, the war was focused on a series of hills around the 38th parallel, which the Marines had named after movie stars. The hills—actually behind enemy lines and known as outposts—were critical because of their elevation, providing the Marines with a 360-degree view of Chinese movements. Murray was on a hill named Esther, named for Olympic swimmer and
movie star Esther Williams. He and his comrades were on high alert, crouched in trenches and bunkers, listening for the crackle of a snapped twig or a muffled footfall. The Chinese always attacked at night, using the cover of darkness to keep American air power at bay. Out of their line of sight, the Chinese had bellied their way up the rocky terrain and cut the concertina wire that formed Esther’s outside defense. A bugle suddenly sounded, bells clanged, and a wave of Chinese soldiers called from beyond the darkness, Marines, tonight you die! “I took a bullet through my shoulder and one through my thumb, and they had to drag me back to the trench,” says Murray. “I ended up in a MASH unit for four weeks, and the boredom was the worst.” The subsequent Battle for Outpost Vegas triggers Murray’s deepest memories. In March 1953, peace talks seemed to be entering a critical phase when China launched an offensive focused on a series of hills named after Nevada cities. The sky lit up with an artillery barrage that was deafening. Murray was lucky—he was on the back side of the hill when the barrage ended and the Chinese sent waves of soldiers up the hillside. “We had 42 guys up there, and they were overrun,” he says. “They shot and killed as many of our guys as they could and took prisoners who today are still missing. My best friend was killed.” Murray transported ammunition and evacuated wounded soldiers from the combat trenches while avoiding mortars and bullets. He remembers a frantic Marine pleading with him to help rescue his twin brother who was stranded on the crest behind Chinese lines. “He kept saying, My brother, my brother, and we tried but they drove us back. I told him there was nothing we could do and we’d try again tomorrow.” Tomorrow never came, Murray says sadly, noting it was three days before the Marines reclaimed Vegas. He doesn’t know if the twin brothers were ever reunited. On another mission to rescue a fallen comrade, Murray faced a line of mortar rounds that landed sequentially closer and closer to him. He had just seconds to dive behind a rice paddy dike and place a stretcher over his head as shrapnel ripped into the canvas, but not him. “Corny as it
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IMPOSSIBLE TO FORGET sounds, that’s when I found Jesus and Jesus found me,” he says. He enlisted the help of a sergeant and placed the wounded Marine on the stretcher. The soldier looked not a day over 16, Murray recalls, saying he knew the man’s head wound would be fatal. “We walked him a mile or so back and we had to stop and put the stretcher down a couple of times because I was just beat,” he says. “We finally got back to the command post, and I saw him take his last breath.” BOTH MURRAY AND CARLSON HAVE Purple Heart medals, and each used the G.I. Bill to further their education when they returned from the war. Carlson still carries a piece of shrapnel in his back; Murray’s hearing was impacted by the artillery barrages. Neither thought much about the longterm effects of what they saw and did in Korea. Because of the extreme freezing temperatures, Carlson was diagnosed with peripheral neuropathy—nerve damage
causing weakness, numbness, and pain—in his upper and lower extremities. Decades later was Murray diagnosed with PTSD and became eligible for the appropriate VA benefits package. Jules Freedman almost seems embarrassed to be talking about his service in Korea. “I am in total awe of Russ and John because I know what they went through and what they did,” the Brooklyn native says quietly and reverently. “I don’t know if I could have done that.” When Freedman, now 92, arrived in Korea, the war was all but over. His troop transport landed in Pusan harbor just five days before the armistice was signed to end hostilities. He missed the war thanks in part to a records mix-up or, as the military would call it, a snafu. After basic training, Freedman—who was drafted for Army duty in January 1953—and his unit were transferred to Ft. Lewis near Tacoma, Washington. “And they lost us,” he says, chuckling. “Somehow our
papers got lost and the Army didn’t know where we were.” As the war wound down with a series of bloody battles, he adds, “We spent our days picking up cigarette butts.” When Freedman’s unit finally made it to Korea, they were held in reserve at the 38th parallel as the fighting ended, where he saw burned-out villages, gutted tanks, massive artillery craters, and refugees looking for some place to go. But no bodies. The war had moved north, and so had death. It was late summer, and the armistice, signed on July 27, 1953, was just a few weeks old. An uneasy quiet had fallen over the mountains that, at long last, looked more beautiful than menacing. The opposing armies had moved a mile back from their original positions, and both sides were digging in. “We had no idea if the armistice would hold, so for several weeks we dug bunkers, cleared land, and set up artillery positions,” says Freedman. At a morning muster, the lieutenant barked out, Are there any college boys in this
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group? Freedman, with one year of pharmacy school under his belt, raised his hand, which earned him assignment to the Army Counterfire Unit—a forward observation listening post close to the enemy lines. Armed with two 20-foot-tall microphones, a recorder/transmitter, and two 6-volt lead batteries, Freedman recalls that his M-1 rifle almost seemed superfluous. No one was firing at anyone, although he’d briefly experienced an artillery duel and small arms fire when he first arrived at the front. His job was to go forward, find the highest point on a peak, set up his microphones, and listen. If anything moved—tanks, artillery pieces, Jeeps, troops—he strained to hear it through the microphones aimed at the enemy on the next ridge. “I could see them sometimes, and they could see me,” says Freedman. It was lonely and uncomfortable duty. He was exposed even though the Army had issued camouflage for his position. Those mi-
crophones, though, had to be high and clear. He was sure the Chinese and North Koreans knew where he was, and it was especially unnerving when he had to haul the heavy lead batteries to the rear to be recharged. But there was one moment of levity Freedman is happy to share. He thumbs through a diary and locates a photograph he took of Marilyn Monroe. The movie starlet was taking a USO trip along the now-quiet front, and Freedman snapped the picture. He still smiles as if it just happened. “It was just about my 21st birthday, too,” he says. “What a present!” CARLSON THUMBS THROUGH A SERIES of letters he sent to his family from Korea. His sister saved them. Sixty years later, they’re preserved in protective plastic sleeves, and he treasures them. “I wrote this one on board the U.S.S. Randall,” he says of the troop carrier that evacuated him after his frozen Chosin ordeal. He tells his family he doesn’t know where he’s
headed but hopes it’s Japan. He reveals that he’s wounded but alright and that, if they get a telegram from the Marines saying he’s injured, pay no attention to it. Carlson discovers why he was covered with feathers that morning. “My sleeping bag was full of bullet holes,” he says, “because I hooked it up to the cartridge belt on my hip when I walked those 70 miles from Chosin. I guess I almost got killed several times and didn’t even know it.” Today, the 160-mile-long Korean Demilitarized Zone is one of the world’s most fortified borders. The listening posts that Freedman manned in the first weeks of the armistice are still manned. There are occasional skirmishes. The most recent happened in early April when a North Korean patrol crossed the Military Demarcation Line, which lies in the center of the twomile-wide DMZ. It’s a reminder that, technically, the Korean War goes on. After 71 years, the armistice is still just a temporary pause.
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BLACK WINE BREAKS OUT P. 70
RAMEN IN OAKLEY P. 73
JAMES BEARD FINALIST Q&A P. 73
SHAVED ICE SMOOTHIES P. 76
BANG BANG Drink to the legacy of celebrated sharpshooter Annie Oakley at the bar named in her honor.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS VON HOLLE
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OFF THE MENU
Sip Happens The Black Wine Fest founder builds community through wine-centric events.
—RODNEY WILSON
SEVERAL TRIPS ABROAD OPENED NATAsha Williams’s eyes to what makes Cincinnati special and her own potential to add to the city’s appeal. While using a travel service for digital nomads, the Forest Park native was able to visit several countries, including Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Croatia, and South Africa. “You want to bring some of the things that you’ve seen in other cities to your city,” she explains. For Williams, much of what she brought back home to Cincinnati revolves around wine. The self-described “hostess with the mostest” developed her interest in wine through repeated exposure during working lunches, where she was served bottles that, initially, held little appeal for her. “Working in HR, I would be at a lot of networking events,” she recalls. “We would drink during those times, but I just had no desire to drink wine.” Eventually, however, she found her palate developing, followed quickly by a growing passion for wine and sharing it with others, which led her to create the wine brokerage firm Lush Life Brands in 2018. “The direction I thought would be the best for me is showcasing certain brands and winemakers, and making wine approachable and fun,” she says. “Making it approachable is really important, especially to people of color, because a lot of us don’t grow up in an environment where it’s offered to us.” Lush Life started out as more of a mission than a plan, with Williams seeking to showcase brands from minority and women vintners. She initially hoped to stage in-
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PH OTO G R A PH BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S
home wine tastings and other wine-centric gatherings, even taking time off of work to get established, but the death of her father followed by the COVID-19 pandemic put the brakes on the party program. She began assembling carefully chosen cases of bottles to share her discoveries. “I did wine cases of different regions as a way to showcase things I was drinking to get through COVID,” says Williams, who has a WSET level 1 certification from Napa Valley Wine Academy. Those small cases eventually grew into Lush Life Distribution, a curated portfolio of “independent, underrepresented and game-changing wine brands” and presenter of Black Wine Fest and the Cincy Rosé Wine Festival. “Between watching my father’s transition and then living abroad and coming back, I realized, ‘Oh, I want to create experiences,’ ” she says. “I want to create moments with wine that are approachable, fun, educational, and just different.” Now three years strong, Black Wine Fest is the culmination of this desire to create experiences around wine. “It’s bringing together communities of people to celebrate together over wine and cocktails,” Williams says. “Initially, it was to showcase minority winemakers and wines by Black and brown producers. And it has been expanding.” The inaugural event took place in February 2023 in Liberty Township’s Sugar Lofts Event Center and was a sell-out. Shortly before a second sold-out year in 2024, it was heralded as the nation’s fourth best new festival in USA Today’s 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards. The timing was perfect for Williams, whose corporate career was growing, in her words, “very intense.” “When I lived abroad, I enjoyed a good work-life balance,” she recalls. “In mingling with locals and getting to know people, I saw that’s just what they did. When I came back home, though…I remember being at a happy hour and asked to do an [employment] offer. I’m in the CONTINUED ON P. 72
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS With Black Wine Fest and the Cincy Rosé Wine Festival, Natasha Williams (second row, far left) is well on her way to building a wine festival empire in the Queen City.
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bathroom of a lounge doing an offer because my leader was like, ‘We got to get this offer out tonight,’ and I’m like, ‘It’s 5:30 and I’m at happy hour!’ That was just one of several moments that made me realize I couldn’t keep doing [it].” Williams admits the transition away from corporate life into a fully self-employed position presented challenges, but she describes the move as an inevitable shift in her quest for a more balanced life. (She’s serious about mental health, too; last year, she established The Grapevine Foundation to support workers in the hospitality/service industry.) “I can truly say I’m happy,” she says. “I enjoy every day that I get to walk into my office, sit down, and let my brain create curated wine experiences and moments.” The 2025 Black Wine Fest took place in February at Music Hall and, in addition to serving plenty of curated libations to another sold-out crowd, featured panel discussions such as “Men in Wine,” “Entrepreneurship and Your Mental Health,” and “Before You Leave Your 9–5.” Plans for the 2026 event are already underway, even as Williams prepares for her second Cincy Rosé Wine Festival, which takes place at Ziegler Park’s Great Lawn in Over-the-Rhine this month. The festival features more than 30 rosé wines from around the world, a cigar garden, food trucks, mobile bars, and more. Last year’s inaugural event was the nearly impromptu result of a conversation with a 3CDC contact when they both realized National Rosé Day took place in June. Williams hopes to see it grow into one of the city’s key events for the start of summer. “I want us to celebrate each other and celebrate life,” she says. “I think this is just another way to really kick off the summer in Cincinnati and show the diversity of our beautiful city and some of these small businesses I get to showcase. This is another way I’m able to educate and curate and bring people together. . That is major for me.” Cincy Rosé Wine Festival, 1–6 p.m., June 14, Ziegler Park, 1322 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, blkwinefest.com/cincy-rose-festival
TABLESIDE WITH...
LUNCHBOX
MIKE STANKOVICH
THE LONGFELLOW OWNER discusses his James Beard Awards nomination. How did it feel when you received the news you were a finalist? It felt surprising. It’s the first year they’ve done anything front of house– related so it was really great to be nominated. What did you do when you heard the news? Chatted with my wife about the trip to the ceremony in Chicago. Had to find a pet-friendly hotel!
Slurpaway Camp WHETHER YOU’RE WINDING DOWN AFTER A BUSY AFTERNOON OF SHOPPING OR GRABbing an early dinner after a movie, Genki Ramen & Izakaya offers a simple fast-casual setting for a quick bowl of ramen for those venturing over to Oakley Station. The signature dishes are served in portions so generous that servers should just bring out a to-go box with each meal. For instance, the nagoya ramen comes with so many ingredients (grilled chicken, bamboo shoots, soft boiled egg, green onion, and kikurage mushrooms) you can barely see its rich, dark broth. Most of the bowls are filled with a base of either pork, miso, or chicken broth, but for a little more heat grab the tantan ramen, served in a sesame flavored chili broth topped with sugar peas, minced pork, green onions, bamboo shoots, and a soft-boiled egg. Ramen not your thing? Try the rice bowls. The curry chicken katsu don offers a deep flavor of Japanese curry sauce with fried chicken breast over rice. Curryless versions are available with salmon, shrimp, beef, or unagi (eel). If you have room for a starter, the pan-fried chicken dumplings (gyoza), shrimp tempura, or seafood okonomiyaki will hit the spot. However, it might be best to save the space for dessert. The Japanese mochi is made of sweet Genki Ramen & Izakaya, 3200 rice dough filled with your choice of strawberry, green tea, mango, Vandercar Way, Ste. 5, chocolate, or vanilla ice cream. It’s an excellent reminder to not make Oakley, (513) 818-9363, genkiramencincy.com this your only visit to Genki. — A I E S H A D . L I T T L E PH OTO G R A PH BY C ATHERINE VIOX / ILLU S TR ATI O N BY J O N N Y RU Z ZO
There were a couple of nominees in the new beverage-focused categories who were musicians in previous lives. Is there something about performing in bars as a musician that makes it easy to transition to a bar owner? I think a lot of people in the arts have to make a living while honing their skills as an artist. The flexibility of a restaurant schedule can work very well with a performing artist’s schedule. It’s part of why I’ve always been a big advocate of this business [restaurants/hospitality]. It allows people options to pursue other interests while making money. You’re the closest of the finalists in your category to Chicago. Do you have any strong opinions on Malört? I like Malört. I always like to drink it in Chicago, because that’s where you should drink it. It has become available here now and I think it’s a shame. It really was a fun thing to do in Chicago. I will definitely be buying some for whoever has never tried it before! – A I E S H A D . L I T T L E The annual Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony will take place on Monday, June 16, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.
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HIGH SPIRITS
SHARP SHOOTERS IT’S SHOCKING THAT despite Annie Oakley’s legacy, Oakley hasn’t cashed in more on Little Sure Shot’s name. Enter Annie Oakley’s, a new bar in the neighborhood seemingly plucked out of the Wild West. It has saloon doors, historical photography, and a player piano that, despite sounding old-timey, plonks out modern pop songs. Mosey on up to the bar (it’s engraved with a timeline of Annie Oakley’s exploits and riddled with real bullets) and order one of the many themed cocktails, mocktails, and shooters. In the Old West tradition, most of the mixed drinks have a whiskey or tequila base, but the more harddrinking cowpoke will appreciate the vast collection of straight whiskey and bourbon, including High West, Kentucky Owl, Suntory Toki, Weller, Colonel E.H. Taylor, and Blanton’s. If you’re looking for something refreshing after a hot summer’s day, the Western Sunset (blanco Tequila, Aperol, lemon juice, bitters, elderflower, and soda water) is the perfect tart cooldown. For fans of sweet drinks, the Double Shoot (vodka, passionfruit, vanilla, and prosecco back) is like a boozy swig of vanilla ice cream with a bubbly prosecco chaser. Just don’t try to split a playing card in half after enjoying one. — C L A I R E L E F T O N
WESTERN SUNSET
Annie Oakley’s, 4016 Allston Rd., Oakley, (513) 531-2643
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PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS VON HOLLE
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WHERE TO EAT NOW
AMERICAN 78 BARBECUE 80 CAJUN/CARIBBEAN 80 CHINESE 80 ECLECTIC 80 FRENCH 83 INDIAN 85 ITALIAN 85 JAPANESE 85 KOREAN 86 MEDITERRANEAN 86 MEXICAN 86 SEAFOOD 87 STEAKS 87 THAI 87 VIETNAMESE 87
DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S
dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all
Angus Tomahawk, four shrimp, four scallops and two lobster tails. Bluefin tuna steak is complemented by cilantro lime rice, a vegetable medley, chimichurri, and a soy ginger vinaigrette. Confit duck leg, an Ivory House specialty, is served with parsnip mash, confit beets, and berry gastrique. The cocktails are ones you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the Death Valley Farm Old Fashioned to the Best West Lemon Drop—has an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like the rosemary syrup.
AMERICAN BOOMTOWN BISCUITS & WHISKEY Boomtown leans hard into the Gold Rush theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. And the dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. The biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample its biscuits and gravy styles with a gravy flight. Or try The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, featuring fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel a little out of place without your own denim getup. 9039 U.S. Route 42, Suite H, Union, (859) 384-5910, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Wed–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun. MCC. $
MR. GENE’S DOGHOUSE Cumminsville is home to arguably the best hot chili cheese mett and chocolate malt in Greater Cincinnati. A family-owned business that began as a simple hot dog stand more than 50 years ago, Mr. Gene’s still attracts lines of loyal customers at its windows. Can’t stand the heat? Order the mild chili cheese mett—more flavor, fewer BTUs. And if you still haven’t embraced Cincinnati-style coneys, try the Chicago-style hot dog with pickles, onions, relish, mustard, tomato, sport peppers, and celery salt; a pork sandwich; or wings (a sign proclaims “So hot they make the devil sweat”). Although the chocolate malt is the biggest seller, we love the $4.75 pineapple shake, made with real pineapple.
MOVING DAY
Pendleton stalwart and Cincinnati Magazine Best Restaurants mainstay Nicola’s is moving to a new spot downtown next year. After nearly 30 years, the restaurant is moving to 127 W. Fourth St., the former home of Pigall’s, in 2026. The new space will include chef’s table seating and a wine cellar.
nicolasotr.com
3703 Beekman St., South Cumminsville, (513) 541-7636, mrgenesdoghouse.com. Open Feb– Oct for lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $ Top 10
of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit. To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com
IVORY HOUSE
The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. All steaks are premium and hand-selected, the star player being the Japanese A5 Wagyu. The Ultimate Surf & Turf is a date night favorite with a 34-ounce
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KEY: No checks unless specified. AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up Top 10
= Named a Best Restaurant March 2023.
petizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third-generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and an allegiance pork chop. The sprout & snout appetizer is also worth a trip to Loveland, combining balsamic-drizzled Brussels sprouts with sliced pork belly.
2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC. DC. $$$
204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 6838266; 150 Riverfront Plaza, Hamilton, (513) 795-8654, foodbytano.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, dinner Sun & Mon. MCC. $$$
RON’S ROOST
TRIO
Ron’s stakes its reputation on its fried chicken, serving roughly 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but the menu is five solid pages of other stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sauerbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whitefish on rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga.
Trio is nothing if not a crowd-pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with a baked potato and compound herb butter), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Margherita pizza with Roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and mozzarella delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, soft cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet.
3853 Race Rd., Bridgetown, (513) 574-0222, ronsroost.net. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$
SUGAR N’ SPICE This Paddock Hills diner, with other locations in Over-the-Rhine and Blue Ash, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line. 4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513) 2423521; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 762-0390; 10275 Summit Pkwy., Blue Ash, (513) 447-6453, eatsugarnspice.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $
TANO BISTRO This Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between ap-
7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$
THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM
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WHERE TO EAT NOW
might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm. 207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowermason.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$
BARBECUE BEE’S BARBEQUE
You’ll want to get to Bee’s early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long. 5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat; 1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $
ELI’S BBQ
Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short-order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide. 3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957; 133 West Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 533-1957, ext. 2, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $
WALT’S HITCHING POST
A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s homemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$
CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN BREWRIVER CREOLE
More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades.
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The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line. 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $
SWAMPWATER GRILL
At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped-up pubstyle items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator po’boys, as well as a selection of hardwoodsmoked meats. 3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$
KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU
The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun-style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
CHINESE AMERASIA
A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Potstickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodles, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121, kungfood. online. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $
GREAT TANG
Although the (24-page!) menu features classic dishes in every style, the specialty at Great Tang is the refined coastal cuisine of Zhejiang. If you like spice, you can get still the Sichuanese and Hunanese classics. One dish will hint at the surprises in store for people who are mainly used to Chinese takeout: the lovely Xian cold noodle. The dish is exquisitely layered: the creamy and nutty undertone of sesame paste, mixed with notes of tang and spice, topped with the bright pop of cilantro. The combination of textures is also delightful, with crunches of cucumber and sprouted mung and the softness of the flat noodles. And that tofu! It was wonderfully meaty, with dense layers, substantial and satisfying as a counterpart to the noodles. Be as brave as you are in the mood to be. Ask for some suggestions and prepare to be astonished. 7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester, (513) 847-6097, greattangohio.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon, dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$
ORIENTAL WOK
When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason. 317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$
THE PACIFIC KITCHEN
The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors. 8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$
SICHUAN BISTRO
Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered. 7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
UNCLE YIP’S
Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs. 10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$
ECLECTIC ABIGAIL STREET
Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the Top 10
menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. Offerings like the lamb belly skewer with tzatziki and pickled shallots, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential. 1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$
THE APERTURE
After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. And it was worth the wait. The restaurant’s seasonal menu draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean with subtle touches, such as its wood-fired pita, elevated with za’atar seasoning and olive oil. The sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like #lemon and I’m Her, and the catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over. 900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$
BOCA
With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like the maple tuile served with the maple mascarpone cheesecake. In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the beef tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair. Top 10
114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$ Top 10
BOUQUET RESTAURANT
Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. The restaurant is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality. 519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetbistro. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$
CHÉ
This spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, hard-boiled egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri.
1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine; 2038 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MCC, DC, AMEX. $$
FIVE ON VINE
The fifth venture from Anthony Sitek and wife Haley NutterSitek’s Crown Restaurant Group, Five on Vine achieves excitement through comfort food with meticulous attention to detail: the meat is butchered in-house, the bread and pasta are made from scratch, and the bacon is house-cured. House-butchered beef and house-made pasta come together beautifully in the pappardelle stroganoff, served with chunks of short rib that are as tender as the noodles themselves. Thick, cleanly acidic fried green tomatoes make an appearance, as does a bountiful cioppino, a tomatobased seafood stew created by Italian American fisherman in San Francisco. Some of the dishes are pulled straight from Sitek’s own childhood, in New Jersey. “Gracie’s Meatballs,” named in honor of his grandmother, use her unique blend of raisins and pine nuts. A love letter to the long-beloved dishes, the menu is an extended rebuttal against the tired argument that American food is bland and boring. 1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4301, fiveonvine.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$
THE GOVERNOR
This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the Madame Rangoon, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in crab whipped cream cheese and eggs. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy, gluten-free fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with apricot slaw and served on a toasted brioche bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of bowling alley fries and ask for the red dip. (You’ll thank us later.) 231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sun. Breakfast and lunch Sun. Brunch seven days. MCC. $
THE GREEN LINE KITCHEN & COCKTAILS
red onions, and arugula. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken flatbread: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try a half-sandwich with a half-salad or half-soup order—a popular selection with the lunch crowd. 4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues—Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $
METROPOLE
Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept popular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rusticity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The seared salmon is served with miso wild rice, asparagus, pickled bok choy, and sesame seeds. The blistered shishitos, served with burrata and preserved lemon, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors. 609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast Wed–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$
MITA’S
It’s fitting that Chef/Owner Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigre or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. The tacos de barriga de cerdo, which come in pairs, are made with fried pork belly, citrus gastrique, habanero slaw, huitalacoche mayo, and are served on house-made corn tortillas. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time. Top 10
501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$
Named after the historic trolley line that used to run between Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky, this restaurant combines quality American food with charm and history. Meals feel like homemade Sunday dinners, and with a menu bursting with steaks, seafood, and pasta, there’s something to make everyone’s weekend. The half-roasted chicken appears exactly as promised, with a breast, wing, thigh, and drumstick cooked as one large piece. Sweet, tender vegetables contrast perfectly with the rich, salty au jus, and cheesy grits elevate bites of chicken or carrot with savory spices and texture. On the cocktails side, even the designated driver has options beyond iced tea. Nonalcoholic choices range from beer and wine to original mocktails, like the Strawberry Ginger (strawberry puree, fresh strawberries, fresh basil, and ginger beer). 425 N. Ft. Thomas Ave., Ft. Thomas, (859)
NICHOLSON’S
757-4580, greenlinerestaurant.com. Dinner Tues-Sat, brunch Sun.
NOLIA
MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN
At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chilaquiles, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with the satisfying Maplewood hash with goetta and local mushrooms. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the shakshuka. 525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$
MELT REVIVAL
In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and The Gobbler, turkey burger served with curried aioli, red cabbage slaw, pickled
To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the Faroe Island salmon, a bowl of cock-aleekie soup, or check out the shepherd’s or BBQ bacon-style burgers or the turkey reuben with Russian dressing. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy the impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish ale. 625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$
Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with almost a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. The smoked chicken, for example, comes with peach Alabama barbecue sauce, greens, mirliton, and charred peach. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere. 1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC,DC. $$$
THE QUARTER BISTRO
Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdybut-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 1
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into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with pappardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy. 6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2715400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for an upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There is a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato. 1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$
SENATE Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palaterattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in
changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned truffle fries inspire countless return visits. 1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 7690099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $
TASTE OF BELGIUM Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts— served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town. 1135 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 3965800, and other locations, authenticwaffle. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sun, breakfast and lunch Mon, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$
flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or twoounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix. com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$
TERANGA West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Moroccan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders. 8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $
WILDWEED
20 BRIX This restaurant mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. The excellent wine list, arranged by
Before it opened as a restaurant, Wildweed developed a loyal fan base through the hundreds of pasta pop-ups that Chefs David and Lydia Jackman held around the city. Even today, it retains some of the freewheeling quality from its popup era with a palpable sense of restlessness in the food. Part of the menu changes from week to week, based on what’s available in the woods and from local farms. If you see things like ravioli and cappelletti on Wildweed’s menu and go expecting Italian-inspired flavors, you will be dis-
GAGA FOR WAWA
In April, Pennsylvania–based convenience store chain Wawa opened its first Ohio location at 7198 Cincinnati Dayton Rd. in Liberty Township. Known for its fresh food offerings, specialty beverages, hoagies, and more, the chain plans to open eight to 10 other locations in the state by the end of the year.
wawa.com
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appointed. Instead, you should be prepared for flavors that come from everywhere. A local vinegar is transformed into a sweet-and-sour Vietnamese nuoc cham. Tart preserved lemons, often associated with Middle Eastern cuisine, are paired with wild lobster mushrooms in ravioli. A Chineseinspired chili oil and mushroom XO share space with local quark cheese. What makes Wildweed a place to return is its sense of adventure. This place is always pushing itself to try something different.
233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch Fri & Sat, dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$
1301 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4274, wildweed-restaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$
COLETTE
YUCA
Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around. 700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
FRENCH CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT
Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients,
generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well-executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution.
At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, Chef Danny Combs has built a more laid-back home for his focused, pristine cooking. While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on the concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes, like Brandade de Morue (a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread) and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though we can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something. 1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$
FRENCH CRUST
Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (with a sunny side-up egg) is a great way to start the day. You’ll also find the much-loved French Lunch Tray, a throwback from the Jean-Robert’s Table days. Served on a cafeteria tray, the four-course meal of the bistro’s favorites
changes every week and is only available at the bar for the low-for-fine-dining price of $19. 1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC. $$
LE BAR A BOEUF
If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—the late Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them. Top 10
2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, lebarboeuf.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$
LUCA BISTRO
Luca Bistro opened in October 2022, but it feels like it has been around for decades. The unabashedly French restaurant, with its French posters, bright red outer paneling, and chalkboard menu proclaiming its specials to passersby, fits into its Mt. Adams environs so perfectly that it’s hard to imagine Hatch Street without it. That, combined with warm service, timeless French fare, and relaxed joie de vivre makes this a true neighborhood establishment. Chef Frederic Maniet grew up in the south of France and has done an excellent job transporting his native cuisine to a quiet corner of Cincinnati. These are the dishes that culinary Francophiles often crave, prepared in a straightforward, time-honored way. The Bouchées à la Reine, a buttery, flaky puff pastry filled with chicken, mushrooms, peas, Gruyèere cheese, and béchamel sauce, is so warm and comforting it makes chicken pot pie seem aloof by comparison. It’s a
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warm, gentle reminder that French food can be convivial and affordable.
this eatery seems poised to become the culinary focal point of the neighborhood.
934 Hatch St., Mt. Adams, (513) 621-5822, lucabistro. com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$
2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$
FORNO
INDIAN AMMA’S KITCHEN
Muthu Kumar Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthiah saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item—from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes. 7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, cincinnati. ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet Mon–Fri (all vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $
BRIJ MOHAN
Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues– Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $
I TA L I A N A TAVOLA
In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowd-pleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward a decade. The OTR outpost is closed but the second location is still going strong in the ’burbs: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty artichoke pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the zucchini mozzarella. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Rhinegeist. They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot.
Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the tagliatelle bolognese with traditional beef and veal sauce are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$
NICOLA’S
Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrated 25 years in business in 2021. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the aged balsamic and lavender honey on the Italian cheese board to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the non-traditional summer gazpacho, filled with crab, zucchini, peaches, and squash, or the balance of the tangy, salty, and citrusy Siciliana salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too. Top 10
1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
PADRINO
Billed as “Italian comfort food,” this sister restaurant to 20 Brix offers the classics (like lasagna and chicken carbonara) plus hoagies and meatball sliders, an impressive wine list, seasonal martinis, and a decadent signature appetizer—garlic knots, doughy buns smothered in olive oil and garlic. Best of all, Barraco’s pizza sauce, which is comprised of roasted tomatoes and basil, is so garden-fresh that one can’t help but wonder: If this is real pizza, what have we been eating all these years? 111 Main St., Milford, (513) 965-0100; 14 N. Grand Ave. Ft Thomas, (859) 957-4082, padrinoitalian.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$
PEPP & DOLORES
As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced, modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options.
7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. V, DC, MS, AMEX. $
1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$
AL-POSTO
PRIMAVISTA
Al-Posto is an upscale southern Italian spot that reflects the same commitment to quality ingredients and delicate preparation that made its predecessor Dear such a gem. Appetizers include classic sharables like marinated olives (prepared with orange zest, rosemary, and Calabrian chile), burrata with grilled focaccia, and coppa (a cured pork served with preserved peppers and almonds), but it’s the pasta (which can be ordered as an entrée or a first course) that’s not to be missed. We recommend the Cacio e Pepe, a seemingly simple dish comprised of bucatini (similar to spaghetti, but thicker), black pepper, and a sharp pecorino Toscano. Since you’re probably wondering, “Al-Posto” roughly translates to “at the spot.” Located in the middle of Hyde Park Square,
Besides offering the old-world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper-thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-
tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsalasoaked raisins, and cream. 810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$
SOTTO
There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. The wood-fired branzino with zucchini, matched with the warm, smoky taste of the Calabrian pepper, offers a flavor that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the citrusy lemon aioli on the tartare di fassone, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness. Top 10
118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 822-5154, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$
SUBITO
Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the lion’s mane lumache. This citrusy dish is served on lumache pasta and cooked with scallions, garlic, shallots, chili, brodo, and pecorino. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch. 311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 579-3860, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$
VIA VITE
Via Vite serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with roasted carrot puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$
J A PA N E S E ANDO
You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the creamy béchamel sauce cooked in the panko breaded and fried croquettes, or the buttery amberjack collar marinated in a Japanese citrus infused soy sauce and grilled over charcoal. Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it kamo negi maki (grilled duck breast stuffed with organic green onions) or a chocolate crepe and matcha parfait, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in anywhere else. 11255 Reed Hartman Hwy., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$
BARU
Baru, the sleek izakaya in the former MidiCi space, prioritizes bar dining, which is meant to be enjoyed alongside its eclectic drinks list. The menu is broken down into drinks, sushi, “small plates,” “plates,” sides, and ishiyaki. Start with clever cocktail offerings, like the Japanese Highball J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 5
WHERE TO EAT NOW
BACK IN BUSINESS
Kiki, which closed its College Hill location in late March, will reopen in Clifton this year. The Japanese gastropub—which will take over the former Habanero space at 358 Ludlow Ave.— will be open for lunch and dinner.
kikicincinnati.com
(which uses Japanese whiskey), the Sake-tini, or the sweetly spicy Wasabi Margarita. Baru’s sushi offerings are—like the rest of the menu—fun and funky. The sushi menu is varied, but concise, featuring a trio of ahi tuna, spicy tuna, and escolar, as well as a quail egg nigiri. If sushi got the party going, the theatrical ishiyaki kicked it into high gear. The term refers to dishes that diners grill tableside on a hot stone, such as the prime New York strip. For all its convivial buzz, Baru is also a spot where solo diners can enjoy a few peaceful bar-side bites. The Crispy Rice Spicy Tuna from the small plates section brought the same level of freshness and quality as the rest of the menu. Sometimes it pays to dine alone.
MEDITERRANEAN ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate.
595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$
906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
KYOTO
CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN
Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—combination of crab, fish, shrimp, scallop, and vegetable tempuras, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, crispy chicken katsu with a mayo sauce,, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake. 12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotousa.m988.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$
ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of flavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned flavor that makes barbecue so good. 220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 9750706, zundootr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues– Sun. MCC. $$
Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the final product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough and frying it lightly to brittle flakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East. 3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714, mediterranean-cafe.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT Come for the jham bong—a seafood soup with flour noodles in a spicy broth with pork, shrimp, squid, mussels, and vegetables. Revered for its medicinal properties, the dinner-sized soup will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. It’s a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues– Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
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3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 6628080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $
SEBASTIAN’S When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanakopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic, they never misses a beat, turning more covers in the tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend. 5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon– Sat. MCC. DS. $
MEXICAN
FILLO This modern Greek restaurant has a menu composed of mezedes, the small, shareable plates that serve as the binder to a great Greek meal. Take the saganaki, for example. True to Greek tradition, Fillo’s version is served without a tableside flambé. But what the dish lacks in spectacle, it makes up for in spectacular flavor. Other dishes, like the Ntakos Salad, are much less familiar, though no less authentic. The salad starts with a puck-shaped rusk of barley. which gets a good soaking to soften it, and then gets topped with olive oil, vinegar, onions, feta, capers, and kalamata olives. This layering of ingredients and flavors also defines Fillo’s most filling entrée: moussaka. The classic dish appears on several local Mediterranean menus, but for pure comfort, Fillo’s combination of eggplant, potato, tomatoy beef ragu sauce, and béchamel can’t be beat. 1505 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 873-1995, fillogreekbakeshop.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$ Top 10
KOREAN
cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in-house, like spanakopita and baklava.
PHOENICIAN TAVERNA
No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues– Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
SANTORINI Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot-
EL VALLE VERDE Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, Lunch and dinner seven days. $
MAZUNTE Mazunte runs a culinary full-court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata. 5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 7850000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $
NADA The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. The menu includes tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowd-pleasers. If you’re biased against Brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. The crispy sprouts, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are an intriguing starter. 600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$ ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM
TAQUERIA MERCADO
The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone. 6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairfield, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $
SEAFOOD MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S
The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: lobster tails from Australia and the North Atlantic, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herb-broth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$
ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD
Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu includes crowd favorites such as Pad Thai, made with rice noodles, egg, bean sprouts, and a choice of protein. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu—like the Black Tiger Roll, one of the chef’s special sushi rolls, made with shrimp tempura, eel, shiitake mushrooms, and topped with eel sauce—are among its most vibrant offerings. 3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, rosewoodoakley.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$
conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile. 1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$
THE PRECINCT
Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint. Top 10
311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$
TONY’S
He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto. 12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$
STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY
The stars of the menu at this steakhouse are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$
JEFF RUBY’S
Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers are there for the slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime). The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$ Top 10
LOSANTI
A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more
Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. With a two-sided, standalone sushi menu and a wide variety of main plates ranging from small bites to signature dishes, you have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience. 1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325; 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-8325, teakotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$
THAI NAMTIP
Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill. 5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $
WILD GINGER
The ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evident in Wild Ginger’s signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercornand-chili brown sauce. 3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$
VI ETNAM E S E PHO LANG THANG
THAI GREEN PAPAYA
Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the somethingfor-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap. 2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$
TEAK SUSHI & THAI
Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners.
Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete. 1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $
CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), June 2025, Volume 58, Number 9. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 221 E. Fourth St., Ste. 130, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2025 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. J U N E 2 0 2 5 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 7
CINCY OBSCURA
Spiraling in the Forest YOU DON’T HAVE TO VENTURE TOO DEEP INTO IMAGO’S 37-ACRE EAST PRICE HILL NATURE
preserve to find yourself in a peaceful oasis. The labyrinth, a circular winding path used for walking meditation, is situated between the education building and the Found Home Trail. The path was installed in 2013 by a team of volunteers and founding Imago members who wanted to provide more spiritual experiences for visitors. “That team had been leading different rituals and celebrations on the natural calendar like the solstice and equinoxes, and they had been looking to do an intentional walking type of meditation,” says Imago Executive Director Chris Clement. There is no wrong way to use the path made from woodchips, grass, and wintercreeper, but Clement has some suggestions. “As you go inward, you can focus on your steps and on your breath, and some people like focusing on the sounds of nature and what they see around them. The main thing is that you’re being present as you’re walking it.” — C L A I R E L E F T O N 8 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U N E 2 0 2 5
PHOTOGRAPH BY BEN WRIGHT
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See the world WHERE WILL MIAMI TAKE YOU? Faculty-led summer programs take RedHawks out of a traditional classroom and introduce them to hands-on learning experiences all over the globe. Get ready to experience education abroad!