Army & Navy + Harfield & Associates
Why Army & Navy? Three reasons. One—Because “Every-
to the dustbins of Vancouver retail
one wants bargains” said owner Jacqui
history. But Army & Navy marches on,
Cohen and and it’s a philosophy on
continuing to sell great bargains to the
which the store has stood steadfast
customers it knows best.
since it opened its doors to customers in 1918.
And Three—Because at Harfield & Associates, we love bargains too and
Two—The Army & Navy carries with
helping an icon like Army & Navy grow
it legendary iconic status in city of
even more is what we do best. We call
Vancouver. Former Vancouver re-
it Brand Action and since 1986 we’ve
tail luminaries such as Woodward’s
been doing just that. And a brand like
Department Stores and James Inglis
Army & Navy is what gets our blood
Reid Butcher have been relegated
pumping.
Why Harfield & Associates? At Harfield & Associates, it’s all about
Why Harfield? Just like the famous
stimulating store momentum towards
Shoe Sale every year at Army & Navy,
that transaction. We have always taken
we feel it’s a good fit. Keith Harfield’s
an aggressive ‘break away from the
dynamic presence in Vancouver’s
crowd’ attack, designed to augment
advertising community and ‘no holds
your bottom line. Our biggest reward
barred’ personal approach is in
is in hearing your cash register ring.
keeping with Army & Navy. In addition,
How do we do it? Through smart,
Harfield gives back to the Downtown
relevant marketing communications
Eastside community record fundraising
solutions. Plus, Harfield has a
for the Vancouver Food Bank and staff
relentless commitment to results and
volunteering at Union Gospel Mission,
budget efficiency. We’re driven by our
both good neighbours to the people at
clients needs, goals and aspirations.
Army and Navy.
Why Now? First and foremost, the middleclass are
The bottom line is people will need
virtually disappearing within Canadian
bargain destinations such as Army &
cities such as Vancouver and being
Navy more than ever. It’s pedicted in
replaced by wealthy and lower income
most developed countries, mid-price
citizens. In a recent study authored by
retailers will slowly dissappear. Plus,
David Hulchanski, director of research
the Americans are coming. While the
at the University of Toronto’s Cities
bloom is off the Wal-Mart rose, Target
Centre, low income communities
Stores and other US discount retail-
increased from 9 percent to 53
ers are setting their sights with market
percent over a 35 year period!
expansion into Canada.
The opportunity for Army & Navy is ‘Brand Action’ of the Harfield kind.
Feb. 14, 2011
Clothing Prices To Rise 10% Starting In Spring
Analyst Says Soaring Cotton and Labor Costs will Push Clothing Prices 10 Percent Higher this Year (AP) The era of falling clothing prices is ending. Clothing prices have dropped for a decade as tame inflation and cheap overseas labor helped hold down costs. Retailers and clothing makers cut frills and experimented with fabric blends to cut prices during the recession. But as the world economy recovers and demand for goods rises, a surge in labor and raw materials costs is squeezing retailers and manufacturers who have run out of ways to pare costs. Cotton has more than doubled in price over the past year, hitting all-time highs. The price of other synthetic fabrics has jumped roughly 50 percent as demand for alternatives and blends has risen. Clothing prices are expected to rise about 10 percent in coming months, with the biggest increases coming in the second half of the year, said Burt Flickinger III president of Strategic Resource Group. Brooks Brothers’ wrinkle-free men’s dress shirts now cost $88, up from $79.50. Levi Strauss & Co., Wrangler jeans maker VF Corp., J.C. Penney Co., Nike and designer shoe seller Steve Madden also plan increases. More specifics on price increases are expected when clothing retailers such as J.C. Penney Co. and Abercrombie & Fitch Co. report financial results this month.
“All of our brands, every single brand, will take some price increases,” said Eric Wiseman, chairman and CEO of VF Corp., whose brands include The North Face, Nautica, Wrangler and Lee. Cotton accounts for half the production cost of jeans, which make up about one-third of VF’s sales, he told investors in November. Higher costs also will affect how clothes are made. Clothing makers are blending more synthetic fabrics like rayon and designing jeans with fewer beads and other embellishments. Shoppers also will have fewer color choices. Retailers are trying to figure out whether consumer demand that gave them strong holiday sales will last. The fear is higher prices will nip that budding demand. Stores that cater to low- and middleincome shoppers will have the hardest time passing along price increases. “We have been so used to deflation for years and years,” said David Bassuk, managing director in the retail practice of AlixPartners. “Customers are going to be surprised.” Janice Mignanelli of Washington Township, N.J., doesn’t want any surprises. “’I’m not going to spend any more than $50 for a pair of jeans,” said Mignanelli, a stay-at-home mom shopping at The Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J., last week. “I’ll just have to cut back on the extras.” Even affluent shoppers, whose spending has rebounded, may bristle. “It does give me some pause,” said Jimmy Franco, a 47-year-old publicity executive and fan of Brooks Brothers’ shirts. “Instead of buying two, I may just get one and a pair of socks. There’s a certain amount of money that I’m prepared to spend.” Cotton prices have jumped to a 150-yearhigh, rising to $1.90 per pound on Friday, more than double what it was a year ago and just ahead of the $1.89 record hit during the Civil War, according to the International Cotton Advisory Committee. Cotton prices began soaring in August of 2010 after bad weather cut harvests in major producing countries including China, the U.S., Pakistan and Australia.
Restrictions on exports from India, the world’s second-largest cotton exporter behind China, have also produced cotton shortages. On top of that, worldwide demand for cotton has risen as the global economy improves. Raw materials account for 25 percent to 50 percent of the cost of producing a garment. Labor ranges from 20 percent to 40 percent, depending on how complicated it is to make, Bassuk said. On the production side, many Chinese factories that shut down temporarily in the depths of the recession still haven’t returned to capacity. As they ramp up, they’re finding they have to pay workers more because of labor shortages, said John Long, retail strategist at consulting firm Kurt Salmon. Up until now, retailers have resisted passing along price increases to shoppers by shifting production to lower-cost regions like Vietnam, turning to other materials and absorbing cost increases. But they’re reaching the limit, according to Kevin Burke, president and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. Mom-and-pop stores are most vulnerable because they have less power to negotiate better prices with suppliers than, say, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. But even the world’s largest retailer is feeling the pressure. “There’s no doubt there may be some price increases that come up, but we don’t want to ever let that be the first answer ... that just because cotton prices are up, that we’re automatically going to pass that on to consumers,” said Mike Duke, Wal-Mart’s CEO and president in a recent interview. Mary Hutchens, owner of Full of Beans, a 25-year-old children’s clothing store in Chevy Chase, Md., worries that price increases could be a death blow. She said she has to discount heavily to stay in business and isn’t sure she’ll be able to pass along the costs. “Everybody has changed their habits since the recession,” she said. “I’m just trying to hold on.”
Feb. 14, 2011
Your Clothes Are About To Get More Expensive Margaret Hartmann
Clothing prices have been dropping for the past decade, but it looks like the days of $9 Forever 21 tank tops and $6 bags of tube socks are coming to an end. According to the Associated Press, the cost of labor and raw materials is on the rise, and retailers and manufacturers are out of cost-cutting ideas. In the next few months clothing prices are expected to rise about 10%, and things will only get worse by the end of the year. Other anticipated changes include fewer color choices, more synthetic blends, and jeans with fewer beads and embellishments (okay, that one actually doesn’t sound so bad). Part of the problem is that cotton has more than doubled in price in the last year, surpassing the $1.89 per pound record set during the Civil War. Bad weather in major cotton-producing countries like China, the U.S., Pakistan, and Australia hurt harvests, and the subsequent demand for cotton alternatives and blends has caused the price of other fabrics to skyrocket as well. There is a silver lining for some workers. Many Chinese factories are being forced to pay employees higher wages due to labor shortages, but most Americans probably won’t be thinking about the plight of our friends overseas when the cost of Levis shoots up $10. (Jezebel.com)
Feb. 24, 2011
Why Aren’t Americans Shopping at Wal-Mart Any More? Hamilton Nolan Box-shaped trinket warehouse WalMart announced its fourth quarter sales figures yesterday, and the news was dark: although profit was up, sales at its U.S. stores fell for the seventh straight quarter. Why don’t we love our Wal-Marts, any more? Remember: Wal-Mart is as all-motherfucking-American as it gets, next to NASCAR and Sizzler. There is no retail outlet—or, indeed, corporation of any sort—that embodies the “dominate the world with too much of everything” American ethos better than Wal-Mart. Everything, as cheap as possible, under one roof. Put every store on Main Street America out of business, in favor of one huge box surrounded by an endless parking lot. Squeeze suppliers, squeeze manufacturers, squeeze wages, kill unions. Squeeze every last penny out of the price, at all costs, and leave your customers with no choice but to shop at Wal-Mart. (And work at Wal-Mart.) The standard explanations for Wal-Mart’s recent American decline: competition from grocery stores, competition from dollar stores, competition from convenience stores, competition from online retailers. Some of the company’s strategic moves designed to attract wealthier, more fashionable shoppers turned out to be failures. Not to mention the fact that WalMart has so saturated the country with its stores that new locations now routinely run the risk of cannibalizing another WalMart’s sales. Which is why the company is determined to carpet the few remaining Wal-Mart-free urban areas of America with—that’s right—Wal-Marts.
But that’s just pennies in a big jar. WalMart’s stock is lackluster. The company’s besieged by business competitors, due to its default position on top, and by political enemies, due to its well-known fuckedupedness. Remember K-Mart? Sears Roebuck? Montgomery Ward? They were powerhouses once, too. Time passed them by. America forgot them. None had the same resources that Wal-Mart does today. But they all suffered the fate that WalMart now fears: they lost their mojo. If Wal-Mart continues a slow decline until it just shrivels and shrinks and turns into just another ugly store on the edge of the town, a kind of seedy one, the one you go to alone, when you need something utilitarian and cheap that doesn’t have to impress anyone... well, that would just about restore my faith in America. Until the next Wal-Mart comes along.
Published Saturday, Jan. 29, 2011
On Target, the style maven’s Wal-Mart
Large corporations don’t usually inspire love. Target – or Tar-zhay, as its fans like to call it in fake French – is different. When the American big-box retailer announced that it would be taking over Zellers locations across Canada by 2013, cheers went up across the country. Target is that rare retailer that has a rabid fan following. Numerous blogs – Target Addict, Slave to Target – enthuse over its cheap-chic wares. Several Facebook fan pages, including the official Target page, which has more than 3.7 million fans, fuel the love. The number of Zellers fan sites on Facebook? Zero. Wal-Mart’s presence on Facebook is also negligible, which is surprising given its bricks-and-mortar sprawl, with more than 320 locations across Canada. Part of Target’s appeal is its advertising, which doesn’t emphasize price as Wal-Mart does, but instead leans heavily on style and feel-good tunes (including everything from General Public to Janelle Monae to music from the seventies children’s classic Free to Be ... You and Me, used in a much-discussed back-toschool campaign). Target may also be the only thrifty retailer that regularly gets name-checked in fashion blogs such as New York magazine’s The Cut and The New York Times’ fashion and design magazine T. The chain has upped its fashion cred over the years by working with runway designers such as Proenza Schouler, Alexander McQueen, Thakoon Panichgul, Zac Posen and Rodarte. It has also won over decor buffs by enlisting such design-world stars as Michael Graves, John Derian and Liberty. Target also gets involved in key events such as New York Fashion Week: Last fall, the retailer unveiled its autumn collection by lighting up the Standard
hotel in neon colours and filling it with models and dancers for its “Target Kaleidoscopic Fashion Spectacular.” Set stylist Sarah Dawn Hamlin, who works in TV and film in Canada and the U.S., is often called on to create a lived-in look in homes and hotel rooms for film shoots. She regularly purchases household items for the purpose at Target, preferring it to similarly priced competitors. The main reason? Style. “The last time I did a big shop there was in L.A.,” Hamlin says. “I was dressing a mansion and I couldn’t spend a lot of money. Target was great because it had low prices but everything looked really good on set.” She also appreciates the retailer’s efficiency, noting that a quick in and out of stores is “critical” during her 14-hour workdays and admiring how she can always get through Target’s checkout line quickly. That’s not to say that Tarzhay is uniformly loved. Googling “I hate Target” yields 80,000 hits worth of gripes (“I love Target” yields 1.66 million hits). The company also courted controversy last year when it was revealed that it gave a financial donation to a Republican candidate with anti-gay views (Target apologized within days, but not before an anti-Target group sprung to life on Facebook). The Internet, of course, is fertile ground for those seeking to air consumer grievances. It is rarer, however, for giant retailers to inspire ecstatic consumer-driven blogs and fan clubs, especially when there are no official affiliations or kickbacks. Will Canadians embrace Target with the same fervour as their frugal but fashionable neighbours to the south? So far, there is a “Boycott Target Canada” page on Facebook – with a membership of 30. Positive fan pages for Target Canada on Facebook have similarly low numbers. Where will the numbers go when Target opens its doors north of the border? The blog-watch for Canada’s reaction to Target is on.
Published Friday, Jan. 14, 2011
Target threatens sales of other Canadian retailers Grocer Loblaw Cos. Ltd. borrowed partly from the fashion playbook of U.S. cheap-chic discounter Target Corp. (TGTN53.780.150.28%) in developing its Joe Fresh Style line. Now, almost five years later, Loblaw feels the pressure of Target preparing to set down roots in Canada, trumpeting its own low-cost styles.
Loblaw isn’t alone among domestic players to face a potential Target squeeze. The Minneapolis-based discounter stands to take a big bite out of retailers’ business when it arrives in Canada in 2013. Merchants ranging from discounters to apparel and home-goods specialists are among those at risk of losing sales to Target. The U.S. chain has built a reputation of carrying stylish clothing and home decor items at affordable prices, including hot designer labels such as Stella McCartney. Retailers in Canada whose products overlap with those of Target will have to lower their costs and sharpen their style sense to take on the new competitor. The advent of shifting retail dynamics follows Thursday’s announcement of Target’s $1.8-billion deal to buy leasehold rights of up to 220 Zellers discounter stores from Hudson’s Bay Co. Target will spend more than $1-billion to convert 100 to 150 of them to its own banner within the next two to three years; it envisions 200-plus outlets within a decade. The stakes are high because Target will generate at least $300 of sales per square foot within a few years of operating here, at least 50 per cent more than those at Zellers currently, according to estimates in a National Bank Financial report. Target’s annual sales in Canada could eventually reach $7.5-billion, compared with an estimated $4-billion now at
Zellers, said James Durran, retail analyst at National. Among retailers most in jeopardy in the apparel category are Sears Canada Inc., Wal-Mart Canada Corp., Loblaw, Reitmans (Canada) Ltd. and Gap Inc.’s Old Navy chain, he said. Target’s rapid rollout could deny Loblaw’s near-term goal of hitting $1-billion of annual Joe Fresh sales, he said. “Joe Fresh has been our Target. [Loblaw is] going to have to use the next two years to really make it hard for Target,” said Jim Danahy, managing principal at retail consultancy CustomerLAB. Loblaw is dashing to bolster its Joe Fresh business. It opened its first standalone Joe Fresh store last fall, and plans 20 in the next couple of years. Last week, Twitter feeds were abuzz about plans to launch a Joe Fresh Style fashion store on Fifth Avenue in New York, which would be the brand’s first U.S. foray. A Loblaw spokesman wouldn’t comment. Wal-Mart could also feel the pinch of Target’s entry. Last year, Wal-Mart dropped most of its clothing lines to focus on its own George apparel. “Target has always been better at fashion than Wal-Mart,” Mr. Danahy said. Target’s research suggests it will have a following when its launches in Canada. It found that 10 per cent of Canadians shop at Target and 70 per cent are familiar with its brand. Vishal Shreedhar, retail analyst at UBS Investment Research, predicted that Target could capture $1.6-billion in incremental sales beyond Zellers’ current revenue. He noted that 83 per cent of Canadians are within a 10-minute drive of a Zellers site.
Published Thursday, Jan. 13, 2011
With Target, Canada’s retail landscape set for massive makeover Less than three years after Richard Baker bought a struggling Hudson’s Bay Co. from the widow of its former owner, the New York investor is set to pocket close to $2-billion in a deal that accelerates Target Corp.’s entry into Canada. HBC sold the bulk of its weakest chain, Zellers Inc., to the U.S. retail giant. Target will assume control of up to 220 Zellers stores and said it will spend more than $1-billion to convert 100 to 150 of them to its own banner within the next two to three years. The move, which comes after years of rumours and discussion about Target’s desire to acquire space in Canada, will dramatically reshape the domestic retail landscape. It underscores the growing demand by foreign retailers for Canadian locations to take advantage of the country’s relatively healthy economy. It also opens the door to other U.S. chains, such as Kohl’s Corp., which are believed to be interested in Canadian expansion and are now expected to examine some of the Zellers locations that Target doesn’t want. Mr. Baker owes much of his windfall to a vibrant Canadian retail sector and brisk consumer spending activity. According to sources, the interest from popular U.S. chains is so great that when word leaked out last fall that Mr. Baker’s private equity fund NRDC Equity Partners might consider a sale of Zellers, a number of U.S. players expressed interest. The most ardent suitor was Target Corp., which had quietly been eyeing a Canadian perch for a decade. The popular retail chain has never operated outside the United States, but
sources familiar with the discussions said Target pushed its search into high gear in November by entering talks with Mr. Baker when it learned that competitors were also stalking Zellers. “They didn’t want to get beat out by other parties,” Mr. Baker said in an interview Thursday. Zellers, which has struggled since the mid-1990s, entered what could be its last chapter in its 70-year history last week in Target’s headquarters in Minneapolis, Minn., where Mr. Baker travelled to negotiate an agreement. The deal relieves Hudson’s Bay of the burden of a tired retail chain that was losing ground to bigger U.S. competitors, particularly discount giant Wal-Mart Stores Inc. The deal ultimately was done in about 30 days, Mr. Baker said, opening the way for the cheap-chic U.S. discounter, often referred to as Tar-zhay by the style-savvy, to launch its first outlets in Canada by 2013. And it will undoubtedly change retail dynamics, providing solid competition to Wal-Mart, which was also at the table with Mr. Baker, looking to pick up Zellers stores. “Wal-Mart Canada should be concerned about the Target entry,” said Rick Pennycooke, president of the retail real estate consultancy Lakeshore Group. “There will definitely be an impact on their stores, at least in the short term,” The sale is a financial coup for Mr. Baker. He acquired HBC in 2008 for roughly $1.1-billion; now he’s set to collect more than $1.8-billion in the agreement, plus “hundreds of millions of dollars” for an estimated $800-million worth of Zellers inventory that will be divested, sources said. In addition, Mr. Baker is sitting on more than $1-billion worth of real estate that HBC owns, including its downtown Toronto flagship Bay store and the connecting office tower. The deal provides Target with 240 days to select the Zellers stores it wants to occupy. The company expects to eventually have more than 200 outlets in Canada over the next decade, said Gregg Steinhafel, chairman and chief executive
officer of Target. Nevertheless, Target still faces some hurdles in its Zellers deal. It has to negotiate terms of each lease with an array of Canadian mall owners. “We have a lot of work ahead of us, property by property,” Mr. Steinhafel acknowledged. However, landlords generally are keen about getting Target – or another new retailer – into its sites. RioCan Real Estate Investment Trust, the largest Zellers landlord, hasn’t ruled out allowing current leases to stand – at $6 a square foot they are all below the market average of $14, said CEO Edward Sonshine. But he said he’s not willing to rubber stamp the deal without more research. “I think it’s going to be a question of the individual properties,” said Mr. Sonshine. “We’re not helpless here – and at the same time they have a lot of power too. It’s a pretty level playing field. In some places we’ll say if they leave, we’re screwed so let’s give them what they want. But at another location, we may say they can like it or lump it.” Meanwhile, Target may have a fight on its hands. Toronto fashion merchant Isaac Benitah has owned the rights to the Target name in Canada for almost a decade but now the U.S. discounter has challenged his right to use the name before federal trademark authorities. Mr. Benitah is pressing on with plans to expand his Target Apparel chain by adding at least a dozen of the superstores in the next couple of years, a source has said. Mr. Baker said he’ll use the proceeds of the Zellers sale to reduce debt and invest $500-million over the next three to four years in his other chains, including the Bay and U.S. department store retailer Lord & Taylor. Later this year, he plans to take the company public. “I really wanted to fix Zellers and turn it into its own version of Target,” he said. “We were just offered too much money to pass this opportunity up.” With files from reporter Steve Ladurantaye
Published Wednesday, Jan. 26, 2011
Wal-Mart bulking up in Canada
Large corporations don’t usually inspire Wal-Mart Canada, a unit of U.S.-based WalMart Stores Inc. (WMT-N54.910.110.20%), said it plans to open 40 supercentres in the country this year by spending more than $500-million that will generate about 9,200 jobs. The supercentre format, which was launched in Canada in 2006, offers groceries and general merchandise under one roof. The company, which already has centres in Ontario, Alberta, British Columbia and Saskatchewan, is bringing the supercentres to two more provinces, Manitoba and Quebec. The current project includes building new stores and expanding, remodelling or relocating existing stores, Wal-Mart Canada said in a statement. By January, 2012, the unit’s store count is expected to be 333 – 164 supercentres and 169 discount stores.
Published Thursday, Jan. 13, 2011
‘Target knows what they are’
The secret to Target Corp.’s success is getting consumers to see beyond the bulls eye. “Tarzhay,” as devout fans affectionately call the retailer, has succeeded where Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has fallen short. It has persuaded middle-class America that discount shopping need not be a guilty pleasure. Essentially, Target is discount shopping without the bargain-basement feel. Target stores are clean and bright, and the shelves are stocked with trendy items along with everyday basics at good prices. The Target logo is synonymous with cheap-chic. And experts say there is pent-up demand for its hip cachet here. Canadians will embrace Target because it evades the stigma of thrift, said Howard Davidowitz, chairman of Davidowitz & Associates, Inc., a New York-based retail consulting firm. “You’ve had so many lousy retailers like Zellers and all these crappy guys. You’ve had all these dumps who acted like retailers but really were cadavers,” Mr. Davidowitz said. “Everything is all messed up, they never got it right, they never knew what they were. Target knows what they are and they execute beautifully.” Over the past 10 years, Target has roughly doubled both its sales and profits. Revenue for the 12 months ended Jan. 30, 2010, totalled $65.36-billion (U.S.), while net income was $2.49-billion, according to S&P/Capital IQ. Target is now set to invest $1-billion in converting the Zellers stores into Target outlets, said Gregg Steinhafel, Target’s chairman and chief executive officer. Target already generates 50- to 200-percent more sales in each of its stores, compared with a Zellers outlet, Mr. Steinhafel said.
He is betting that he can run better stores than Zellers by putting more staff into them. Each Target store has between 50and 100-per-cent more employees than a Zellers, he said. More staff help, for example, keep the store tidier and easier to shop, he said. Over the next decade, he envisions more than 200 Target stores in Canada. Some analysts say there is room for as many as 250. “We want to be the preferred shopping destination for the Canadian consumers,” he said. Target stores – on average about 125,000 square feet – are larger than Zellers stores, which are closer to 100,000 square feet or less. Still, while many Canadians have heard about the success of Target, they may never have never visited one, Lakeshore Group retail consultant Rick Pennycooke said. “Target must make certain that they do not disappoint the Canadian consumer when they do arrive,” he said. “They will have to be different and better than Zellers.” Target and Wal-Mart have followed very different business strategies. Target was founded in Minneapolis in 1902 as the Dayton Dry Goods Co. In 1911, it was renamed the Dayton Co. but was commonly called Dayton’s department store. Its modern-day fashion finesse is rooted in its early history as a department store, Mr. Davidowitz said. From the beginning, Target established itself as “the king of apparel.” Matching tops, bottoms and accessories are displayed together on the floor, meaning customers do not need to worry about making an outfit work. The retailer has also invested heavily in promoting its private labels across a range of merchandise. Their stable of designers has included Isaac Mizrahi, Mossimo Giannulli and Michael Graves. Additionally, Target employees travel the world, scouring for the latest trends in fashion, accessories and housewares. With a lower price point in mind, the
company then “Targetizes” a potential product for mass consumption. The quality may be less, but the cool factor is conserved. In contrast, Wal-Mart founder Sam Walton’s origins are in the convenience store business in America’s deep south. With price a key priority, Wal-Mart’s early focus was on basics like food and other consumables, rather than apparel. “Here’s the key to Target: the fashion is right. And it is presented in an environment for fashion,” Mr. Davidowitz said. “With Wal-Mart, do you think you want to buy fashion surrounded by a giant pile of cookies? I mean, it is ridiculous.” It is unlikely that Target will have to radically alter its business strategy in Canada, said John Williams, a retailer consultant with Toronto-based J.C. Williams Group Ltd. That’s because Target already enjoys a groundswell of goodwill here – much more so than other U.S. retailers like Kohl’s or Marshalls. Most Canadians have already seen Target’s slick ads that hold out the promise of simplifying middle-class life with a dash of glam. “When they go to the States, the first store they go to is Target. That’s the baseline for cheap chic,” Mr. Williams said. Beyond business, Target is also wooing Canadians by promising to extend its popular community outreach programs on this side of the border. Since 1962, it has earmarked 5 per cent of its income to support local communities. “It is important to people to know these so called impersonal companies care about the community,” Mr. Williams added.
Two Concepts For the purpose of discussion, two
The second concept is cemented
Both concepts promote a Push strategy
directions have been conceptualized.
in an historic and bargain-centric
through extensive store merchandis-
The first is a fashion-friendly approach
mindset. Capitalizing on the long-
ing… and a Pull strategy by delivering
which positions Army & Navy as a fun
standing history of Army & Navy,
a means by which consumers can save
and inviting place where the smart
it presents a nostalgic look back to
money. It should not be presumed that
shopper can find terrific deals for
simpler times and lower prices. It does
it is suggested these concepts are ‘THE’
home and family. A destination that
so with a retro-chic visual vocabulary
solution. The sole purpose is to com-
beckons to consumers who might not
to communicate “Orange is Gold” to
municate a love for the Army & Navy
ordinarily consider Army & Navy as a
those savvy consumers who conscious-
brand and demonstrate a knowledge
regular place to shop for their consum-
ly look for hard-hitting bargains on ne-
of retail-centric design.
er needs. And, a place where all the
cessities, so that they can have money
elements of a ‘look’ are available
available to ‘splurge’ on those optional
at outstanding prices every day.
items that make life worth living.
concept i
“Saving Fashionably” The message is always about low
This concept draws upon the
prices. Our intent is to energize the
cheap-chic mentality that US
look and feel of the stores, the ads
retailer, Target, embodies: saving
and the merchandising compo-
money and feeling good about it.
nents; “cheap & cheerful” is a good
Bright colours, eye-catching dis-
way to describe the ambiance of
plays and attractive prices placed
this concept. Our hope is to attract
prominently communicate a warm,
a wider customer base, specifically
feel-good vibe that has customers
those “high-low” consumers who
enjoying their shopping experience
consciously shop discount in
like the company of a good friend—
tandem with high-end retailers by
the sort of experience that they
providing them with an attractive
look forward to again and again.
and friendly atmosphere.
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wednesday april 27th
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
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The Legendary Shoe Sale
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sweetheart savings
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HOT SUMMER SAVINGS
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#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
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Look again, it’s
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3/9.99 rib tank 9.99 check cabby 3.99 animal print thong 7.99 cross over tee 7.99 animal print bra 24.99 belted stretch jean 3.99 heart hipster 29.99 sherpa lined jacket
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
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Vancouver: 36 West Cordova Street. New West: 502 Columbia Street Langley Mall: 5501 204th Street
Look again, it’s Calgary: 1107 33rd Street N.E. Edmonton: Whyte Avenue 10411 82 Avenue Edmonton: Londonberry Mall 137th Avenue & 66th Street
Print Ads
3.99 plaid shirt 5.99 flannel shirt 14.99 plaid sweater
9.99 denim jeans 12.99 GWG jeans 19.99 lined plaid shirt
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
19.99 2pc Hood & Vest 29.99 sherpa lined jacket 28.99 Dickies dbl. knee pant
Vancouver: 36 West Cordova Street. New West: 502 Columbia Street Langley Mall: 5501 204th Street
Look again, it’s Calgary: 1107 33rd Street N.E. Edmonton: Whyte Avenue 10411 82 Avenue Edmonton: Londonberry Mall 137th Avenue & 66th Street
9.99 denim jeans
$
3.99 plaid shirt 5.99 flannel shirt 14.99 plaid sweater
9.99 denim jeans 12.99 GWG jeans 19.99 lined plaid shirt
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
19.99 2pc Hood & Vest 29.99 sherpa lined jacket 28.99 Dickies dbl. knee pant
Vancouver: 36 West Cordova Street. New West: 502 Columbia Street Langley Mall: 5501 204th Street
Look again, it’s Calgary: 1107 33rd Street N.E. Edmonton: Whyte Avenue 10411 82 Avenue Edmonton: Londonberry Mall 137th Avenue & 66th Street
Print Ads 3/9.99 basic t-shirt 18.99 button vest 19.99 skate shoe 12.99 GWG jeans
3/9.99 tank top 5.99 starter fleece shorts 14.99 sherpa lined full zip 18.99 canvas tote
9.99 print buckle top 3.99 lace thong 14.99 stretch straight leg 14.99 pink lo tops 29.99 metallic tote
3/9.99 basic t-shirt
3/9.99 tank top
11.99 twill brim hat
9.99 print buckle top
18.99 button vest
5.99 fleece shorts
3/9.99 basic t-shirt
3.99 lace thong
19.99 skate shoe
14.99 sherpa lined zip
18.99 button vest
14.99 stretch straight leg
12.99 GWG jeans
18.99 canvas tote
19.99 skate shoe
14.99 pink lo tops
4.99 cottom scarf
8.99 open toe pumps
12.99 GWG jeans
29.99 metallic tote
Look again, it’s
Look again, it’s
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
Vancouver: 36 West Cordova Street. New West: 502 Columbia Street Langley Mall: 5501 204th Street
Calgary: 1107 33rd Street N.E. Edmonton: Whyte Avenue 10411 82 Avenue Edmonton: Londonberry Mall 137th Avenue & 66th Street
#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
Vancouver: 36 West Cordova Street. New West: 502 Columbia Street Langley Mall: 5501 204th Street
Calgary: 1107 33rd Street N.E. Edmonton: Whyte Avenue 10411 82 Avenue Edmonton: Londonberry Mall 137th Avenue & 66th Street
Out-of-Home Media
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#TO [ 0CX[ a canadian original since 1919
Social Media
canada’s original department store!
.GIGPFCT[ 6JG
5JQG SALE wednesday april 27th
concept ii
“Orange is Gold” This concept establishes a solid
It speaks of the history Army & Navy
foundation of credibility by strongly
has forged as Canada¹s original
reminding people that Army & Navy
discount department store since
has been serving Western Canada
1919. It also provides a comforting
for many decades as a trusted
backward glance to simpler times
source of bargain-priced values.
and lower prices—a strategy that
This is their budget¹s bugle call to
was enormously successful to many
action. This is “Major Savings!”
retailers during the uncertain times
Graphically, this concept establishes
of the late 1950s. The enemies are
both a historic and savings perspec-
higher prices and lower budgets—
tive. It leverages the equity inherent
and Army & Navy will provide the
in the Army & Navy name brand
ammunition to help consumers to
and shouts it from the roof tops.
win their budgetary battles.
The use of a retro aesthetic is both strategic and currently “on trend¹.
Psychology of Colour at Retail The one major psychological influence that all retailers can — and do — make use of is color. Color can be everything to a successful store, if the palettes work well across the whole shop and complement other elements such as product displays and lighting. The point, according to retail designers, isn’t about creating the most beautiful shop, but one that has coherence. Color is central to coherence because we react instinctively to it. Red means “stop” and green means “go.” Our brains are hot-wired to respond to color and, for modern retailers, the trick to using color is to understand both its physiological and psychological influences. We react fundamentally to colors because they help us make sense of our surroundings; indeed, some 80 percent of information reaches our brains via our eyes. It means that we are instinctively more comfortable when colors remind us of something familiar — for example, a soft shade of blue triggers associations with the sky and a psychological sense of calm. Prisons and hospitals now use color to influence the behavior of inmates and patients.
green room and why weightlifters perform better in blue gyms. It’s certainly the reason why some paint manufacturers now have color cards setting out the therapeutic aspects of each color, and why some cosmetic companies have introduced “color therapy” ranges. We all share similar responses to color, although some cultural variations exist. For example, white is the color of marriage in western societies but is the color of death in China. In Brazil, purple is the color of death. Yellow is sacred to the Chinese, but signifies sadness in Greece and jealousy in France. People from tropical countries respond most favorably to warm colors; people from northern climates prefer cooler colors. Our heart rate and blood pressure rise when we look at intense reds; conversely, we can become tired or anxious by looking at large areas of bright whites or grays. In a retail environment, understanding those responses can be crucial to enticing a customer inside, and then enticing her to open her wallet or purse.
In children, by contrast, those color associations are still being formed, which is why youngsters respond best to bright primary colors. Those bold colors are the color of most toys, clothes and children’s books — and the color schemes of the most successful kids’ retailers.
To make things more complicated, the success of a retail store isn’t so much influenced by the chosen color scheme but by how their target customers react to it. Is the store aimed at teenagers? Thirtysomethings? Senior citizens? The success of the store depends on how the customer reacts to both the products on display and the sales environment. Younger people like the energy of bold colors; older people prefer more subtle palettes. Get those colors wrong, and a retailer will find that their customers simply won’t relate to the brand.
Color psychology perhaps explains why people are allegedly more relaxed in a
Color association also extends into food retailing. For example, most fast-food
restaurants are decorated in vivid reds and oranges. These are colors that encourage us to eat quickly and leave — exactly what the fast-food operator wants us to do. Luxurious brands, on the other hand, favor softer colors that appear more sophisticated. In classier restaurants, those are the colors that encourage us to linger — and to order another drink, another coffee. Some retailers are now using carpeting to influence patterns of travel around a store — particularly from the crucial zone just inside the shop entrance, often referred to as the compression or transition zone — the place where customers first orientate themselves with what’s inside. Here, carpeting is being used to subtly direct shoppers deeper into the store or, by using different colors and patterns, create subconscious walkways that shoppers will tend to follow.
Psychology of Colour: Orange The most flamboyant color on the planet! It’s the color tied most this fun times, happy and energetic days, warmth and organic products. It is also associated with ambition. There is nothing even remotely calm associated with this color. Orange is associated with a new dawn in attitude. Orange combines the best qualities of both red and yellow - energy, passion, and happiness - while toning down their more aggressive qualities. Orange, therefore, is stimulating, yet warm and comfortable.
By recognizing how color influences us, retailers are better able to induce feelings of warmth, intimacy or serenity — or, by using more vibrant palettes, to excite or stimulate. It’s about understanding target markets, the product lines to appeal to them and the kind of brand the retailer wants to convey. Lastly, it’s about conveying that brand though color and design. Patricia Beks is a marketing and communications specialist with carpet designer and manufacturer Desso.
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Branding: The Psychology of Colour Branding Strategy Insider has an interesting post titled Color Psychology in Marketing. It includes some interesting insights into how colors influence people’s perceptions. According to the post, here are colors and their corresponding associations as perceived in the North American mainstream culture: Red --excitement, strength, sex, passion, speed, danger. Blue --(listed as the most popular color) trust, reliability, belonging, coolness. Yellow --warmth, sunshine, cheer, happiness Orange -- playfulness, warmth, vibrant Green -- nature, fresh, cool, growth, abundance Purple --royal, spirituality, dignity Pink -- soft, sweet, nurture, security White --pure, virginal, clean, youthful, mild. Black --sophistication, elegant, seductive, mystery Gold -- prestige, expensive Silver -- prestige, cold, scientific
tary t emen ompl ant aspec c f o se ort art The u n imp pleasing a is s y ign. color theticall s ic des of ae raph and g other ds to g exten ntrastin o s l o This a such as c nd retail a s s ogo Field s in l play. color dis , other each t to ther x o e h n c d a ake e place When ements m ighter. l r comp appear b
Identity
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A CANADIAN ORIGINAL SINCE 1919
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A CANADIAN ORIGINAL SINCE 1919
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u w yo o h s n’t ut we ca pitch : ( b t is abou in th s u o t n talk rove p r u o a medi l a i c . so tegies s! a r t s esult r t e We g
Social Media
In Conclusion Army & Navy is a fighter. A survivor.
constantly evolving new channels of
Its history and success as one of
communication, including online and
Vancouver’s icon retail outlets is
social media applications.
unquestioned. But the retail environment of today is changing
In the spirit of the Army & Navy brand,
rapidly. Today, Army & Navy faces
we believe the retail sector is a war for
challenges unheard of—perhaps
every dollar. We are confident that Har-
unimagined—in past decades.
field + Associates has the retail experi-
The onus is on entrepreneurs to be
ence, drive, dedication and creativity to
smarter, savvier marketers and
be a key ally in the ongoing battle to
advertisers than ever. And, to be able
both solidify and broaden the Army &
to reach customers not only through
Navy customer base.
traditional means, but through the