BOUNMA CHANTHAVONGSA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES
Sabaidee
Dear Passengers,
Welcome aboard, and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.
On the occasion of my appointment as the new president of Lao Airlines, I hold the development of Lao Airlines at the highest importance. I hope passengers will be proud of our national carrier, that we can increase cooperation with other airlines, and remain competitive based on the quality of our services.
November and December sees the end of Buddhist Lent, followed by the year’s end, and I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our passengers happiness and health in the year ahead.
On behalf of the board and all employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank you for choosing to fly with us, and for instilling the airline with confidence in its international standards, ensuring our continued expansion into the future.
Lao Airlines remains at your service, no matter if you are travelling near or far. We hope to serve you again soon, and wish you a pleasant flight.
Mr Bounma Chanthavongsa President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Hello readers,
Welcome to the November-December issue of Champa Meuanglao. As the year comes to an end, we bring you an extra large edition full of exotic places and exciting travel ideas.
In this issue we visit the wilds of Xe Champhone where native crocodiles and cheeky monkeys can be found.
We offer some quick tips for a Hanoi stopover, while intrepid adventurer Mick Shippen takes a deeper look at the fields and foods of Luang Namtha.
Delving deeper into the world of Lao cuisine, we explore the taste of tradition with Manda de Laos, sample some of Kualao’s mok pa, and then try Lao food with a modern twist at Once Upon a Time.
Also this edition, we take a look at the uniquely Lao designs of Sakoun Lao, and listen to the intriguing sounds of traditional wind instruments.
Happy Reading,
The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team
ADVISORY BOARD
Bounma Chanthavongsa President
Somsamay Visounnarath
Vice President …– Technical, Operation & Training
Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh
Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation
Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay
Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting
Rada Sunthorn
Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering
Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.
Cover image: Silk Spools at Sakoun Lao Photo by P Air Photography
As part of the Visit Laos Year 2018 campaign, Champa Meuanglao magazine held the My Favorite Place Photo Competition in April and May, which drew hundreds of entries by both Lao citizens and foreign residents. Nine lucky entrants won free flights with Lao Airlines, and their photographs are to be displayed in our magazine. The images may be viewed online at: www.champameuanglao.com/myfavoriteplace
WINNER
Spencer Wakat 27, from Savannakhet
Savan Park at Night
(Savannakhet)
The Ferris wheel and the carousel are enjoyed by locals and expats as one of the activities offered by the charming park of Savannakhet.
WINNER
Jade Triandafyllo 27, from Vientiane
(Kuang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang)
When visiting Luang Prabang for work, I always find time to come to Kuang Si Waterfall. Lost in a lush jungle, these waterfalls are majestic. Each time I visit, I get up at dawn and see the monks of Luang Prabang who receive alms and take the road to Kuang Si. I'm always the first arrival and find myself alone to bathe in this soft and refreshing water. This place is definitely my favorite place in Laos.
Heaven of Peace
Bouavonh Biachampah 33, Vientiane WINNER
The Rice Basket
(Phieng, Xayaboury)
This field has been a center of the community in Phieng District for ages because it is a place to meet and share with each other. As it is the most important place to produce food, it has been called the rice basket of Xayaboury Province and is a place I like to call “My Laos”.
IN HANOI
Retaining many features of its French colonial era, Hanoi maintains much of its original character and charm.
Day 1
09:00
THE OLD QUARTER
The hectic and vibrant heart of the city is an absolute must see. The main 36 streets of the district were each home to a specific guild of tradesmen, some of these trades are still carried on today and entire streets still practice the same craft. Wander down the lanes, explore, and get lost among the hustle and bustle of this ancient commercial center. By the end of your exploration, grab a local lunch of delicious street food, available on every street!
13:00
VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY
Located a little outside of the downtown area, this center is one of the best museums in Vietnam and interesting for all ages. Inside the modern structure are very wellexplained exhibits (in Vietnamese, English, and French) detailing the traditions and characteristics of Vietnam’s many minority peoples. It is well worth walking through the back garden where life-size replicas of traditional houses have been created, such as an Ede longhouse, and a soaring Bahnar communal house. (Closed on Mondays)
THE OLD QUARTER
VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY
17:00
HOÀN KIÊM LAKE
In the evenings, Hanoians swarm to relax, exercise, and sit in the park surrounding this lake. There are many cafes and ice cream kiosks, so a great place to people watch, enjoy the sunset, and ponder over the mystery of the giant turtles rumored to inhabit the lake.
18:30
THĂNG LONG WATER PUPPETS
Dating back from an old tradition developed during floods in the Red River Delta, performances of these graceful and whimsical wood and lacquer puppets can be seen here every evening. Operated by puppeteers standing in a pool of water behind a bamboo screen, puppets are controlled by long poles concealed underwater.
Day 2
07:30
HO CHI MINH’S MAUSOLEUM
Arrive early to avoid queues, especially on weekends. Soldiers enforce strict behavioral and dress codes as you enter this grey granite structure to view the embalmed body of Uncle Ho. (Closed Mondays and Fridays.)
08:30
ONE PILLAR PAGODA
AND THE HO CHI MINH MUSEUM
In the same complex as the mausoleum, the One Pillar Pagoda was originally built nearly 1000 years ago to give thanks for the birth of a royal son. The original structure was destroyed by departing French in 1954, but was quickly rebuilt. The nearby Ho Chi Minh Museum gives a very stylized and artistic look at his life and the great revolutionary struggle to remove the yoke of colonialism.
HO CHI MINH’S MAUSOLEUM
THĂNG LONG WATER PUPPETS
HOÀN KIÊM LAKE
ONE PILLAR PAGODA
10:30
TEMPLE OF LITERATURE
Constructed nearly 1000 years ago, this Confucian temple housed the Imperial Academy – Vietnam’s first national university. The complex’s five courtyards are amazingly wellpreserved and are a peaceful respite from the flurry of Hanoi traffic.
12:00 KOTO
Enjoy lunch and contribute to the futures of underprivileged youth. Founded nearly two decades ago, this stylish and delicious cafe is staffed by young trainees who are studying a rigorous skills-training program. Graduates are highly regarded in the hospitality industry in Vietnam, so you may encounter quite a few more during your visit!
13:30
TRÂN QUÔC PAGODA
Hanoi’s oldest Buddhist temple is located on a small island on the city’s largest body of water, West Lake. Built nearly 1500 years ago in another location and moved here, it is famous for its strikingly tall 15 meter pagoda.
14:30
ĐÔNG XUÂN MARKET
The largest covered market in Hanoi sits very close to the Old Quarter. Even so, the clientele are almost all locals. Spend some time browsing the wholesale goods and housewares available here, as well as some souvenirs.
16:00
ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL
The center of the Catholic faith in Hanoi, this neo-gothic church resembles Paris’ Notre Dame. Visitors are welcome inside to pray and take photos respectfully. There is also a busy plaza outside where students like to gather, take photos, and drink lemon tea together.
TEMPLE OF LITERATURE
TRÂN QUÔC PAGODA
17:30
LONG BIÊN BRIDGE
This rail bridge was designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened in 1903. It spans the Red River and connects Hanoi with the deep sea port at Hải Phòng. It was the target of many bombing raids during the Indochina War. Visitors are allowed to walk onto the bridge, as long as no trains are coming!
19:00
HIGHWAY 4
Begin the evening with a drink and a meal at Highway 4. This restaurant focuses on food from Vietnam’s northern highlands and reinvents them for new audiences. The catfish spring rolls are highly recommended, and for the more adventurous: locusts, crickets, or ant eggs – perfect bar snacks to be washed down with a craft beer or flavored local spirits.
Text by Jason Rolan Photographs by Phoonsab Thevongsa
LONG BIÊN BRIDGE
WHAT'S ON?
Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time. Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!
27.10.–04.11.
LAO HANDICRAFT FESTIVAL VIENTIANE
A collection of the nation’s best handicrafts will be on display at ITECC exhibition center. Entrance is free. facebook.com/LaoHandicraftFestival
05.11.–08.11.
BOUN KHAO KAI NOY
XIENG KHOUANG
Celebrating one of the province’s most popular products, a small grain variety of rice known as “small chicken rice”. Renowned by connoisseurs for its rarity and used in producing Beerlao Gold.
27.11.–02.12.
VANG VIENG INTERNATIONAL SKYDIVE AND MUSIC FESTIVAL
VANG VIENG
Skydivers from all around the world will gather in Vang Vieng to jump over the spectacular landscape. A music festival will be held as well, and sure to entertain. skydive.la
07.12.–12.12.
LUANG PRABANG FILM FESTIVAL
LUANG PRABANG
This popular annual film festival brings together the top films and filmmakers of Southeast Asia. Entrance is free for all! lpfilmfest.org
17.12.–23.12.
HMONG NEW YEAR XIENG KHOUANG
Traditional festivities include ball tossing, singing contests, and sporting activities, and visitors can view Hmong people in their traditional colorful outfits.
17.12.–22.12.
PHA THAT ING HANG FESTIVAL SAVANNAKHET
THAT LUANG FESTIVAL VIENTIANE
This three-day festival is held in and around That Luang Stupa, the national symbol of Laos, and ends with a fireworks display.
14.12.–15.12.
VANG VIENG MUSIC FESTIVAL VANG VIENG
A great lineup of Lao and regional reggae, hip hop, and rock bands will perform on several stages. This is one of Laos’ largest music festivals! facebook.com/vangviengfest
This festival draws large crowds who pay their respects to Buddhism and the holy relics inside this stupa, one of the most sacred in Southern Laos.
24.12.–27.12.
ETHNIC MINORITY FESTIVAL OUDOMXAY
Oudomxay province is home to a great diversity of ethnic peoples. This festival brings them all together to share and celebrate their unique customs and traditions.
CAPITAL
Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.
STREET FOOD
MIMELUEM
One of the new food businesses that attracted me is MIMELUEM, which opened recently in Vientiane. With a simple concept and menu, this pop-up stall makes tasty Lao baguettes at affordable prices, such as baguette with pate, and the carbonara baguette which, is popular among its customers. Get in quick as long queues form during lunch hour and MIMELEUM closes when stocks run out.
Corner of Pangkham Street (facing BCEL HQ ATM)
Monday to Friday 7am–5pm and Saturday 7am–1pm
NAKED ESPRESSO MISAY
This ultra-cosy new café located in what was once a bookstore serves two special blends of espresso coffee. Food includes the smoked salmon wrap, aussie burger, and BLT wrap, alongside a selection of desserts.
Rue Nokeokoummane (next to Mixay Inn Hotel)
Monday to Sunday 7am–9pm
don't miss
The famous torched carbonara baguette
don't miss
Try their signature sticky rice with ice cream and espresso
Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane. Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle
SAMBA XAYOH
For those wary of new flavors, there’s little to adapt to at a churrascaria (Portuguese barbeque) buffet with familiar seasonings and spices used on chicken wings, sirloin steak, pork sausage, dory fish, seafood, and the famous char siu pork. Servers bring unlimited meats on skewers to your table and deftly slice the meat in lean rashers. Pair your protein with grilled pineapple or choose from an array of salads and side dishes at buffet table. Go when you’re feeling especially hungry!
Hengboun Road (next to Lao National Cultural Hall) open daily 11 am–11 pm
don't miss
The famous char siu pork as it passes your table
CAFÉ
BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE
MADE IN LAOS
Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos? Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.
HERBAL SOAP
Made from Coconut Oil and skin-conditioning Thanaka powder. Handmade by Les Artisans Lao.
38 000 KIP
Les Artisans Lao Wat Inpeng Street, Vientiane facebook.com/lesartisanslao
LANTEN GEOMETRIC POUCH
Lanten women in Luang Namtha Province embroider these with graphic designs on organic, naturally dyed cotton.
260 000 KIP
Traditional Arts & Technology Centre Ban Khamyong, Luang Prabang taeclaos.org
LUE SHOES
Hand spinning, hand woven cotton, Natural color dyed, super comfy shoes.
178 000 KIP
Her Works Rue Nokeokoummane, Vientiane herworks.la
MATSUTAKE
Rare Matsutake mushrooms are steeped in local spirits and believed to have medicinal properties.
120 000 KIP
Kualao Restaurant Rue Samsenthai, Vientiane kualaorestaurant.com
COTTON POUCHES
These multipurpose pouches are made from woven cotton and dyed with natural indigo color. This 3 size set is a great and useful gift for everyone!
88 000 KIP
The Lao Textile Museum 151 Ban Nongthatai, Vientiane facebook.com/laotextilemuseum
“The intriguing culture of the Yao ethnic group in northern Laos is not known to many. Their story inspired me to create 'MANGMEE', meaning prosperity – a masterpiece I am most proud of ! “
Ms Tookta, founder of Her Works
The Yao ethnic group has resided in northern Laos since the 15th century. They are known for their dazzling silver embellishment, especially during the Yao New Year festival, reflecting their diligence and determination.
www.herworks.la
Her Works – Lao Multi Ethnic her.works @herworks
+856-21-854 289, +856-20-58883388
Nokeokoummane Rd., Mixay, Vientiane
The Yao also craft exquisite embroidery –showing their fine attention to detail.
This Yao 'Silver Flower' pattern on the Mangmee bag is a symbol of prosperity and will bring good fortune.
PRODUCT OF EXCELLENCE 2017 from the Ministry of Industry & Commerce
LIFE IN LUANG NAMTHA NATURE &
With the cool season upon us, it’s time to head north. Lao Airlines' daily flights to Luang Namtha make it easy to discover this diminutive town with lots to offer.
TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN
The fertile Luang Namtha valley is carpeted with rice fields
Mountainous northern Laos has long been a haven for eco-tourists, trekkers and cultural travelers who come to enjoy the natural beauty and discover hilltribes. It’s also home to incredible agrobiodiversity, colorful markets and distinctive cuisine. To start your trip off on the right foot, check into your hotel or guesthouse and ask for the excellent free guide called Luang Namtha – Life and Nature in Laos. Produced with the support of New Zealand and the Lao Ministry of Information, Culture, and Tourism, it includes a map of the Luang Namtha Valley Route, a 35 km soft adventure excursion that can be tackled by cyclists or on a scooter, both of which available for rent in the town centre. The route includes sections of tarmac with rust-colored tracks that
GETTING THERE
Luang Namtha has daily flights from Vientiane, or is connected to regional cities by bus
stumble through vibrant rice paddies and ramshackle villages. There’s plenty of opportunity to stop along the way, not just to take in the beautiful landscape but to connect with local minorities such as the Lanten. Closely related to the Mien, the Lanten came to Laos from southern China and Vietnam more than one hundred years ago. In northern Laos, there are 21 Lanten villages spread across Luang Namtha and Oudomxay provinces. One such village on the Luang Namtha Valley Route is Nam Dee. Lanten women can be recognized by their dark indigo clothing decorated with white or pink tassels, and white leggings wrapped from knee to ankle. They pluck their eyebrows and wear their hair up in a distinctive fashion. Lanten are one of the most skilled and productive of the hilltribes in Laos. In Nam Dee you may see them spinning cotton they grew, weaving and dyeing using indigo, and making their own clothing. They also produce paper from mulberry bark and bamboo and are skilled silversmiths.
1. Luang Namtha province is home to some of Laos’ most beautiful scenery
2. Lanten women are known for their weaving and embroidery skills
3. Ladies selling chickens at Luang Namtha market
4. A village cockerel making his presence known
5. A selection of dishes from The Boat Landing menu
6. Rice almost ready for harvest
EAT LOCAL
The trail also winds its way through Tai Dam and Hmong villages where you can see rice whisky distillers and weavers at work, and on passed historic temples and stupas before eventually pulling back into the town center. For adventurous eaters, it’s worth timing your ride so that you are arrive at The Boat Landing Guesthouse and Restaurant at lunchtime. This renowned riverside resort was instrumental in putting the distinctive cuisine of the region on the culinary map with the publication of Food from Northern Laos – The Boat Landing Cookbook. Written by Dorothy Culloty and photographed by Kees Sprengers, it was produced in close collaboration with the resort owners and the talented kitchen team. It stands as an important record of ingredients, cooking techniques and recipes from the many ethnic groups in the north. The restaurant serves an array of dishes you are unlikely to find on menus elsewhere such as Akha pork balls with sawtooth herb, mint and guava leaves, and nahm prik ong, a punchy tomato and pork dip seasoned with fermented soy beans, along with a local favorite pickled bamboo soup with chicken, and classic northern fare such as aw lam, a delicious vegetable and pork stew thickened with sticky rice and flavored with pepperwood.
. It doesn’t get much fresher: The morning’s catch on display in the market MORE INFO Luang Namtha’s daily fresh market is open daily from 6 am – 6 pm and is an essential part of any itinerary for travelers hungry for insight into local food culture.
To discover more about Laos’ incredible agrobiodiversity visit phakhaolao.la
Luang Namtha’s daily market sells an abundance of fresh produce
Hibiscus flowers for sale in the market
Bamboo shoots are a popular ingredient in Lao food
DISCOVER LAOS’ MEGA-BIODIVERSITY
In the heart of Luang Namtha there is a bustling fresh market. You only have to spend a few moments here to realize that Laos is home to an astonishing biodiversity of foraged and cultivated foods, and medicinal plants. Each day, vendors set out beautiful displays of vegetables, fruits, and herbs, many of which are indigenous to Laos. For visitors, it is a fascinating experience but much of it will be unfamiliar. Fortunately, an invaluable online resource called Pha Khao Lao was recently launched. The aims of the initiative are to document and preserve knowledge of Laos’ bountiful harvest from field and forest, so it is available for use by researchers, students, local communities, chefs, or those simply curious about the array of ingredients they see in the markets.
According to Pha Khao Lao the country is home to 10,000 native varieties of rice, more than 2,500 edible plants, more than 200 species of fish, over 500 non-timber forest products, 1,500 known medicinal plants, all of which are crucial to Laos’ economy and food security.
Rural areas such as Luang Namtha are particularly rich in unusual yet delicious and nutritious ingredients. One example that visitors may see in the town’s market during the cool season is nor boun, a type of rattan gathered by hill tribes in the forest. In order to eat it, ferocious spines have to removed and the outer bark cut away to reveal an edible inner core. It is often used in soups and curries, or pounded with chilis and herbs to make jaew, a Lao dip to accompany rice and steamed vegetables.
Binh Tailor has 4 branches in Vientiane
Sakoun Lao in the business of form and fashion
TEXT BY CAMERON DARKE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY P AIR PHOTOGRAPHY
MODEL PHOUNSAP PHONNYOTHA
DREAMS
WOVEN SILK IN
Lost in the glittery world of her mother’s old magazines, Malathip Phenglamphan took a keen interest in embroidery and design from an early age. And coming from a dressmaking family, it’s no surprise that she followed in her mother’s footsteps, albeit on a grander scale.
Setting foot in Sakoun Lao is like a glimpse into another world, or perhaps even another time. An eclectic mixture of the extravagant and the traditional, this exclusive silkwear boutique offers designs that are meticulously handcrafted from the first stitch to the final product.
Malathip dreams up all her designs by herself, and diligently maps them out in pencil on rolls of graph paper. Next, the designs are carefully embroidered by hand until the pattern in her mind’s eye gradually becomes a reality, and the intricate designs begin to take form.
“ALL OUR DESIGNS ARE ONE OF A KIND. IF YOU PURCHASE A PIECE FROM SAKOUN LAO, YOU WON’T SEE THIS ANYWHERE ELSE”
And second only to the uniqueness of the embroidery, comes the quality of the fabric.
“Our embroidery designs are made with silk imported from France, because the quality is higher than that produced in Laos. But the material is handwoven here in our workshop by Lao artisans.”
And the difference is clear; the silk produced in the Lyon region of France has been going strong for over 500 years, so its long history yields a quality almost unmatched in other parts of the world.
The smooth, lustrous and waxy feel of the silk is prized by her customers, and in the skilled hands of Lao weavers, the fabric produced at Sakoun Lao outmatches its counterparts.
Understandably, many of the customers at Sakoun Lao include young and budding brides, ready to be outfitted in an unforget-
MORE INFO
Phonthan Road, Savang Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane
Tel.: 02023239924, 02056561566, 0309227992
table Lao wedding gown. It is the exclusive designs and the overall experience that brings brides to the boutique, often commissioning a particular design for the bridal party, and a matching but matchless piece for the bride herself.
Adding value to the experience, Malathip has begun offering various extra services, such as wedding invitation publishing and even a handbag spa!
And so the young girl with big dreams, poring over magazines, has grown into an elite artist, offering exclusive pieces that are truly a cut above the rest.
“Because if you stay where you are, you’ll never get anywhere,” says Malathip.
Distinguished aviation veteran Mr Bounma Chanthavongsa has been officially appointed as the new president of Lao Airlines. Champa Meuanglao caught up with him at his office to ask a few questions about his plans for the future of the airline.
Tell us a bit about your background prior to becoming the president of Lao Airlines?
I’ve been involved with the aviation industry since I completed military training with the Lao Air Force in 1972. I was sent to the Soviet Union for further study in aircraft mechanics, where I was tasked with repair of Mig-21 fighter jets. I completed my studies there in 1976, and returned to the Lao Air Force for a number of years. Then, in 2001, I was given the responsibility of managing a very small company that had nearly gone bankrupt, called Air Lao. I was assigned the task of turning the business around, developing it until it became Lao Skyways as it is known today.
So you have been involved in the aviation industry for a long time?
Yes, I’ve spent my entire adult life working in aviation. A good 40 years.
Is it true that the Prime Minister himself appointed you as president of Lao Airlines?
Yes, that’s true. The Prime Minister issued a decision on a Friday, and I signed on the dotted line the next Monday! Of course I wasn’t completely prepared initially, however as I mentioned in the press conference after my appointment, as the national carrier, we will continue our mission to grow and expand, to serve both domestic and foreign passengers, and to remain competitive among other international airlines. That’s still our goal.
You’ve now been tasked with revitalizing Lao Airlines. In which direction to you hope to take the airline?
My appointment as president (of Lao Airlines) was quite sudden, although they’d been talking to me about it for over a year. I haven’t made firm plans yet as to how to turn the airline around, and it will take time to make the right decisions. This is a big responsibility and Lao Airlines is a big airline. It’s the national carrier.
What are your plans for implementing this strategy?
The mission right now is to study the problems faced by the airline, which are numerous. One major problem is a financial issue, and to resolve this problem, we need to cut costs and increase revenue. As part of studying cost-cutting, I’ll need to review the efficiency of personnel, internal organization, and expense management systems. We must improve our services and ensure that Lao Airlines, the national carrier, remains in the hearts of our passengers. That’s our responsibility.
What do you think is the biggest strength of Lao Airlines?
I believe that Lao Airlines has great potential. We are unique, we are friendly and welcoming, and we can rely on the great potential of Lao people. I would like to ask society to help by giving us their suggestions, and we’ll take those ideas on board and improve our airline.
"I BELIEVE THAT LAO AIRLINES HAS GREAT POTENTIAL. WE ARE UNIQUE, WE ARE FRIENDLY AND WELCOMING, AND THEREFORE WE CAN RELY ON THE POTENTIAL OF LAO PEOPLE."
"WE MUST IMPROVE OUR SERVICES AND ENSURE THAT LAO AIRLINES REMAINS IN THE HEARTS OF OUR PASSENGERS."
Which is your favorite Lao Airlines destination?
My favorite will always be Xieng Khouang (laughs) because that’s where I’m from. Xieng Khouang is a province with a lot of tourism potential. In my opinion, there’s more to see in Xieng Khouang than in Luang Prabang! It’s just that some of these tourism sites haven’t been promoted well. The climate is cool, there’s a lot of natural beauty, and there are unique ethnic minority cultures in Xieng Khouang. It is also a place rich in history, and with its own special cuisine.
Which countries would you like to see Lao Airlines flying to in the future?
We hope to see a flight to Japan in the near future, probably starting with a Vientiane-Fukuoka route, and then if possible Vientiane-Narita, as both governments have already agreed to the idea. I think that Lao Airlines should definitely include direct flights between Laos and Japan. We also hope to increase regional flights to places such as Taiwan and Hong Kong, and of course we’ll expand our routes within China.
Since you came from a career in Lao Skyways, do you think there is room for cooperation between the two airlines?
That’s a very good question! Both airlines are state enterprises, meaning they are both operated by government. Lao Skyways has a separate strategy, and I think the two airlines could cooperate well. I actually plan to hold a meeting between the two airlines to open discussions on this very topic.
THE XE CHAMPHONE OF WILDS
Savannakhet Province plays its own siren song with ancient Buddhist libraries, remnants of French Colonial times, and a significant stupa holding relics of the Buddha. Sitting just to the east of Savannakhet town, Xe Champhone District has monkeys with attitude and skulking crocs.
TEXT BY MELODY KEMP PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELODY KEMP AND JASON ROLAN
CROCODILE LAKE
Siamese crocodiles are critically endangered. Hunted for food and for their skins, their numbers dwindled. They are small and would disappoint Crocodile Dundee, being shy and solitary. He would have nothing to fight.
Laos has some of the largest remaining communities of Siamese crocodiles. Your visit will help locals know that they are valuable and make sure the species survives. Some villagers in Savannakhet particularly around the Nong Boua (Crocodile Lake) believe in crocodile spirits and ghosts.
A community conservation program has created crocodile conservation zones, trained villagers and officials to monitor crocodile populations using their phones with a GPS, and patrol the conservation area and nests regularly. The result? More crocodiles.
A breeding house is found in Ban Tansoum in the temple grounds near the Lake. But it is more interesting to head to the open Beung Saiyan, Boua Thong, and Xe Champhone Wetlands, one of two Ramsar sites in the country. Please show respect and allow elders to accompany you.
left: The grand Ho Taypidok
1. A Siamese crocodile 2. Siamese crocodiles basking in the sun
From the Monkey Forest it’s a short trip to Wat Nong Lam Chan and its famous Ho Taypidok, a beautiful 17th century Buddhist library and document repository. The collection of old wooden temples are classically peaceful and simply beautiful. The day we arrived, a monk was busy with a hydraulic jack repairing the tail lights of a Toyota pickup. The ancient meets the modern.
It was, so the story goes, built over water to keep the termites from the ancient books, written in a variety of scripts on palm leaves and stored in silk bags inside the multi-tiered pagoda. The custodian, who was obviously proud of the collection, said that while around 2,900 of the 4000 or so scripts were kept in the library for the public to see, the abbot kept others in a private library elsewhere on the temple grounds.
Note that the temple is a very sacred space so you are expected to leave your shoes at the gate, and if possible wear Lao dress which means a sinh (traditional skirt) for women. To enter the library one buys a ticket which comes with an offering platter and a pha bieng (scarf worn across the body by both men and women for ceremonies). It is customary to bow three times in respect of the books and their significance, even if you haven’t read one in years.
GETTING THERE
Lao Airlines flies four times weekly to Savannakhet.
Xe Champhone district lies 50 km east of Savannakhet city on Rte 9W. Private transport and a good map is advised.
Hang onto your hat, literally. The Monkey Forest and temple known as Dong Ling is the place to get up close and chatty with monkeys. The temple is set in a sacred forest located in Ban Dong Meuang. Most of the monkeys (macaques) are used to people stalking with insouciance along the temple walls. In fact some are downright cheeky. I watched as one stole a packet of crisps from one family and happily sat on a tree branch munching them while the children cried below. Another took possession of a parked car. Others stay in the confines of the temple and are fed by the monks.
Our law firm is made up of highly experienced Lao and foreign lawyers with extensive experience working on complex projects and transactions in Lao PDR. We have represented multinational corporations, financial institutions, investors, and development banks in numerous projects and transactions to deliver international quality legal services in a timely, efficient, and effective manner. We invite you to contact us.
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CONTACT INFORMATION
LS Horizon (Lao) Sole Co., Ltd. Ms. Xaynari Chanthala, Partner Unit 4/1.1, 4th Floor
Simuong Commercial Center Fa Ngum Road, Phiavat Village Sisatanak District, Vientiane, Lao PDR
Tel: (+856-21) 217762, 217768
Fax: (+856-21) 217590 www.lshorizon.com
THE BOLAVEN PLATEAU
A COFFEE LOVER’S PARADISE
TEXT BY BENJAMIN BARUTZKI
PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / MYSTIC MOUNTAIN COFFEE
Pakse is often the starting point for journeys south, because there is easy access to rental cars and organized tours. Pakse is a melting pot of tourists with several cafes and restaurants, while local tour operators in Pakse can arrange trips to the Bolaven Plateau or other attractions in the South.
We decided to stay one night near Paksong, before being picked up by our tour guide the next day to drive into the unknown reaches of the Plateau. In the morning, we were picked up by our guide, Mr. Khamsone Souvannakhily of Mystic Mountain Coffee.
Khamsone arrived in a 1945-era army Jeep, a vehicle which adds a sense of adventure to the experience of the tour. Khamsone’s enthusiasm is infectious, fuelled by his passion for his advocacy and knowledge about the region, and coffee (of course), and the uniqueness of the Bolaven Plateau; his tour gave us great insights on the history of the Plateau and the start of coffee production 100 years ago.
Born and raised in the Bolaven Plateau, Khamsone’s family has been working with coffee for more than forty years. His plantation is located at the heart of the Plateau, a two-hour and a half drive away, due to the poor road condition. It was an exciting ride while being greeted by smiles from children playing by the riverside. From a distance, the beautiful traditional Lao house stands in the middle of rows and rows of coffee plants and recently planted avocado trees all situated on a small hill. There is a large garden outside, with a coop for chickens and a pond for catfish. His house is immaculately kept, and the guest room provides much-needed comfort after the journey.
Meals are included in the tour and guests are treated to huge servings of scrumptious Lao food prepared by Khamsone’s wife. During dinner Khamsone regaled us with stories about the secret American base on the Plateau during the Vietnam War, and that farmers are still in danger from unexploded ordnance (UXO) that has yet to be cleared.
Khamsone started his career doing odd jobs and aided his education by learning and practicing English as a bellboy at a hotel. Little by little he was able to
Off the beaten path in Laos’ coffee country
purchase land and fulfil his dream of having a coffee plantation. His plantation is now 16 hectares in size due to hard work and perseverance; but like any success story, it started with a failure. He is a farmer by heart; and after purchasing his farm, he started making profit for himself and his community by growing and selling coffee. Then, in January 2014, half of his coffee field was destroyed by frost. Afraid of telling his wife what happened, he was urgently thinking of other ways to earn money. This was the starting point of Mystic Mountain Coffee Tours. 4 years later, supported by his good grasp of the English language, he’s at the top of his game.
After a contented sleep, we woke to the sound of roosters, while a hearty breakfast awaited. We toured the nearby village, and Khamsone made his rounds to his workers’ houses. The women of the village do the
GETTING THERE
Mystic Mountain Homestay is located several hours outside of Pakse. Lao Airlines flies there daily from Luang Prabang and Vientiane, and four times per week from Bangkok.
mysticmountain.coffee
sorting of the coffee beans. While the job might seem monotonous, it gives women the opportunity of working while taking care of the household. Through Khamsone, women are provided with a steady flow of additional income for their families. Additionally, if there are more guests joining the tour, then he will hire additional guides and jeeps.
It was quite overwhelming to witness how much work goes into a cup of coffee, with most families in the villages of the Bolaven Plateau supporting themselves through the coffee industry. Seeing how the people of Khamsone’s village wake up before sunrise to plough the fields and pick the fruit, and how the women dry and sort the beans, it is a good reminder of the importance of knowing how ethically sourced your coffee is.
Mystic Mountain Coffee Tours offers a deep understanding of the coffee process; from cherry to cup. The tours have expanded over the years to include trekking, jeep tours, coffee production lessons, and cooking classes for guests.
1. A tourist learns about coffee beans
2. Old army jeeps carry tourists to the coffee plantation
3. Sunrise on the Bolaven Plateau
4. Tad Hung waterfall
THE
RIVER RESORT
Riparian luxury meets Lao hospitality down south.
TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE RIVER RESORT
GETTING THERE
The River Resort is just outside of Champasak town, 30 km south of Pakse city. Lao Airlines flies from Vientiane to Pakse daily, and flies from Bangkok four times per week.
On the right bank of the Mekong, just north of Champasak town, sits a hidden treasure in Laos: The River Resort. Formerly a royal orchard, the 30,000 square meter area is teeming with green space for travellers looking to get away into nature and affordable luxury.
I had heard of The River Resort for quite some time and that it was a not only beautiful, but had a holistic attention to detail. People often remarked that it was
a highlight of Southern Laos. I needed to find out for myself.
Cheerful Mr Ton, the General Manager, greeted me at reception and walked me through the property to my room. I learned that the resort itself is comprised of 28 Deluxe Guestrooms, 20 two-storied villas; and 8 adjoining rooms in two-storied structures. Each room has a splendid Mekong River view or Pond/Garden view, which can be enjoyed through large panorama windows.
1.
2.
3. Evening calm along the garden path
4. Liphi falls at the 4000 Islands
building this unique hotel project in keeping with the history of the area, and with a focus on the wellbeing of both guests and the community. The River Resort is dedicated to sustainable practices by composting organic waste to grow the magnificent flower, fruit, and vegetable gardens; using solar power in the kitchens, using ecologically grown bamboo in most of the furnishings; as well as maintaining a working rice paddy on the property! Hotel staff are almost all from the local area and have learned that hospitality brings skills they can use to improve their lives and share their region with the world.
I decided to see more of the area before dinner and boarded one of their comfortable local-style boats. In this area, it is very common to construct a large platform spanning two local pirogues as pontoons. Sitting in comfortable rattan chairs under a grass roof, I was feted with local snacks and a few soothing bottles of Beerlao to help quench the late afternoon heat.
Admiring the mountains towering over scenes of local life along the riverbank, it truly felt like a special piece of paradise.
The property also has two infinity pools with Mekong views, as well as a stunning riverside restaurant serving sumptuous Lao, Thai, and Western cuisine. There is even a rooftop area that is perfect for small private events or corporate meetings, complete with its own bar. Mr Ton also mentioned that the hotel has their own boats available for journeys up and down the Mekong, and even sunset cruises!
The American and Japanese owners fell in love with the location and invested in
One of the resort's infinity pools
A modern and comfortable bedroom
江河度假村（THE RIVER RESORT）
在占巴塞城镇的北边，湄公河畔处坐落着一个老挝的藏 世珍宝：江河度假村（The River Resort），这个占地30,000 平方米的区域曾经是一个皇家园林，里面绿意盎然，特别 适合想要贴近大自然并且寻求高品质奢华之旅的旅行 者们。
Open for visitors: Mon–Sat 9:00–17:00 Ban Nongdouang Tai, Sikhottabong District,
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An authentic, traditional Lao dish that is comprised of steamed Mekong river fish infused with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, fish sauce and other herbs wrapped in a luscious green banana leaf. The cooking process renders the marinated fish magnificently succulent and buttery, which makes this fish dish truly mouthwatering.
Mok pa
Experience a taste of Laos by enjoying the delicious mok pa, spicy or non-spicy, with either steamed or sticky rice.
A comfortable stay awaits in the heart of a heritage neighborhood.
TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MAISON DALABUA
MORE INFO
Maison Dalabua is easily accessible from downtown Luang Prabang.
Check their website for more information and to book: maisondalabua.com
U
nbeknownst to most travelers to Luang Prabang; UNESCO also preserves the natural wetlands of the city. Built around one of these tranquil spots, sits Maison Dalabuaan oasis of calm in this world heritage city. Just a short walk from the languid padowntown of Luang Prabang, the entrance to the hotel feels like stepping into a complete surprise. The humble facade of the lobby opens up into a large space of natural splendor that feels miles away from urban life.
Founded on her family’s land, local entrepreneur Toune Sisouphanthavong felt that this would be the perfect spot for a boutique hotel. Her dream came true. Maison Dalabua has 40 rooms decorated in a style both heritage in design and modern in execution. Several free standing
buildings contain rooms flanking both the well-preserved natural ponds, as well as a swimming pool. The hotel’s spa, located in a UNESCO protected heritage house, is also a great way to unwind after long day of sightseeing.
The decor of the rooms takes inspiration from Lao culture and handicrafts; from woven fabrics used on beds and pillowcases, to the ingenious concept of using colorful spools of silk thread as art adorning walls throughout the hotel.
Attentive and friendly staff can be found all throughout the property, from front office, to housekeepers, to bellmen and gardeners; all giving warm smiles and greeting guests with sabaidee. Maison Dalabua is a great family hotel. Even if you travel alone, you will feel like home here.
Homemade flavors combine with world heritage natural charm.
TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MANDA DE LAOS
MORE INFO
Manda de Laos is located in Ban
That Luang, Luang Prabang.
For reservations call: 071 253923
mandadelaos.com
Opening with a splash on Luang Prabang’s culinary scene in 2015, Maison Dalabua’s sister restaurant Manda de Laos cooks up traditional Lao family dishes served with a very creative presentation. Set on the banks of a large natural lotus pond, meals here are immersed with intensely delicious flavors, as well as a measure of tranquility. The origin of this restaurant begins with the owner’s mother, Mama Phiew, born in 1930 to a prominent local family. As a child, she learned to cook traditional Lao dishes from her mother. Later, when she had a family of her own, she passed this love of cooking on to them, using the time-honored family recipes handed down for generations.
Some of these dishes have become signature menu items at the restaurant. Highly recommended is the ped makkham, which is slow-cooked duck in a tangy tamarind sauce served over local greens. Also worth mention is the Luang Prabang Salad which comes with a local-style Scotch egg. And to round out a meal on a sweet note, dive into the sangkhaya makphao: steamed coconut cream served like a crème brûlée.
While daily life has changed in Laos and around the world, Manda de Laos is able to carry on the traditions and spirit of Mama Phiew, dedicated to sharing how one cooked and ate in the past.
left: The charming ambience of the restaurant and traditional ingredients for Larb
“WE TAKE BAMBOO AND WE TAKE TREES AND WE TURN THEM INTO TRADITIONAL MUSIC.”
Neng Chue Vang, Hmong instrument maker and musician
Wind instruments form the most varied musical family in Laos. They include the emblematic mouth organ khaen, but also the dadoula (a flute), the tchudu (a trumpet), and even simple leaves. Wind instruments can mimic language, as is the case of the Hmong raj nplaim, or communicate across long distances, like the buffalo horn of the Akha. But the deceptively simple-looking instruments have generally been overlooked as an important part of Laos’ cultural heritage, until now.
“Voices of the Wind: Traditional Instruments in Laos,” a new exhibition at the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang, is the result of over two years of research and curation by Belgian ethnomusicologist, Dr. Marie-Pierre Lissoir, and TAEC. Dr. Lissoir performed her PhD research in remote Houaphan Province on Tai Dam khap singing, and returned to Laos to work for TAEC and further their research into music.
1. Yao Kuay Saetun, an Iu Mien musician, playing the dzat using the circular breathing technique
2. Tub Thoj, from Xieng Khouang, playing the raj nplaim at Luang Prabang Hmong New Year celebrations
3. Tai Lue pii ku players and singer in Luang Prabang Province
4. Crafting the Tai Dam pii luang, played for healing ceremonies
Dr. Lissoir says, “while many of the wind instruments look like a simple bamboo stick with holes, they can create an incredible variety of sounds and timbres, used for rituals, entertainment or courting. Many instruments are even used to communicate, whether to pass a message through the mountains with the powerful sound of a leaf, or to express one’s love with the discreet buzz of the jaw harp. Speaking about music is speaking about life in Laos, its changes and challenges.”
On their mission to document music across northern Laos, the TAEC research team participated in new year celebrations of several ethnic groups, including the Iu Mien, Lahu, and Oma, the latter of which includes the construction of a temporary wooden Ferris wheel! The new year begins in December or January for several ethnic minority groups of Laos, and is an important time of feasting, family, and games. Music is used for entertainment and dancing, though nowadays, DVD players hooked up to speakers are often more common than pipes and flutes.
Fewer young people are learning to play traditional instruments, and in many communities,
left: Neng Chue Vang, Hmong qeej musician and instrument maker, working on a reed
there is no one left who knows how to make or repair the instruments themselves. For example, in Ban Phoudonthan in Luang Namtha Province, the last resident who knew how to make the hao dong nou, a Mien flute, passed away a few months ago.
“Voices of the Wind” features a musician playing a haunting melody on the village’s last hao dong nou. Music is the voice of a community, the voice of a country.
MORE INFO
To learn more, visit “Voices of the Wind: Traditional Instruments in Laos” at the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang. Interactive and intimate, the special exhibit features wind instruments and their role in communication, ritual, and courtship. Through recreations of a Hmong instrument-maker’s workshop, a Tai Dam healing ceremony, and interactive video kiosks, visitors can enter a world rarely seen by the general public.
taeclaos.org
2.
a Kui Luang
and healer. For New Year, he is wearing a Kui Luang traditional costume and playing the mouth organ naw. He is one of the last people that remembers the dance performed around the ritual pillar during New Year.
1. Neng Chue Vang playing a large qeej he crafted
Pho-Fa,
ritualist
3. Oma new year Ferris wheel in Phongsaly Province
TEXT BY MICK SHIPPEN
AND THE WINNER IS…
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN & HOUMPHANH PHAHONGCHANH
Ahighlight of the recent Sustainable Tourism Solutions Expo 2018 in Luang Prabang was the ‘Chefs’ Competition’.
Held at the beautiful Luang Prabang View Hotel, the event saw five talented Lao and Western chefs go head-to-head in front of an audience of exhibitors and the town’s community and business leaders.
Each chef was given advance notice of a selection of locally sourced ingredients, plus three optional mystery items revealed when the competition started, namely honey, bee larvae and ricotta cheese from the Luang Prabang Buffalo Dairy. At the end of the 45-minute cook-off, judges marked dishes on presentation, creativity, and taste. Bonus points were given for use of the mystery ingredients.
The winner, who scored high in every category, was Chef Peter Van de Velde, owner and chef at Café del Mundo in Luang Prabang. The experienced chef wowed judges with two delicious dishes: grilled tofu Parmigiana with ricotta, tomato-ginger salsa and grilled vegetables, and Mekong fish steak with lemongrass, vegetables julienne, orange sauce and cilantro oil.
Originally from Belgium, where he had his own restaurant for more than a decade, Peter has been in Lao PDR for 15 years. Prior to setting out his chef’s knives in Luang Prabang, he worked for three years as a private chef on a yacht cruising the Mediterranean. It’s a period of his life that he looks back on with fond memories, and one that afforded him the freedom to hone his creative skills and personal style.
In Luang Prabang, Peter opened the popular Café del Mundo. Influenced by casual bistro-style dining, he offers an enticing and eclectic menu of international dishes, along with weekly changing special menus, and a handful of Lao favourites. Peter is passionate about fresh, locally sourced
MORE INFO
Café del Mundo 27 Ounheuan Road, Luang Prabang
open daily from 7.15 am – 9.30 pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Tel: 071 212 148 facebook.com/ CafeDM
ingredients, and makes his own stocks, sauces, dressings, bread, jams, and yoghurt. He also offers vegetarian and vegan options, and doesn’t use MSG. His dedication and attention to detail is reflected in vibrant dishes such as avocado salad with cucumber, tomato, and feta cheese served with homemade wholewheat panini, flavourful chicken Parmigiana with grilled vegetables, and Tex Mex meets Luang Prabang burritos with Mekong riverweed, fried tofu, tomato salsa, crispy vegetables and cheese! Peter also serves up comfort food classics guaranteed to keep the cool season chill at bay, such as coq au vin and beef Bourguignon with rosemary and king oyster mushrooms served with fries
Peter’s winning recipe
Mekong fish steak with lemongrass, vegetables julienne, orange sauce and cilantro oil
Ingredients (serves 4)
- 500 g Mekong fish
- 100 g thick coconut milk
- 2 stalks of lemongrass, finely chopped
- Olive oil
- 1 cucumber
- 1 carrot
- 100 g beansprouts
- 1 red bell pepper, chopped in regular ½ cm cubes
- 300 ml fresh orange juice
- 1/2 tablespoon of fish sauce
- honey to taste
- 1 large shallot, sliced
- 1 chili cut in half, seeds removed
- 40 g cold butter
- 2 bundles of coriander
- 1 or 2 garlic cloves
- Salt (Lao salt from Ban Keun, Vientiane) and black pepper
- 1 red bell pepper, chopped in regular 5mm cubes
Finely chop or mince the fish. Place in a bowl, add the thick coconut milk and season with salt and black pepper. Shape into four burger size patties and coat with the finely chopped lemongrass. Preheat a non-stick pan with olive oil and gently fry the fish, turning after about four minutes until golden brown on both sides and well done.
While the steaks are frying, reduce the orange juice and the fish sauce in a pan with the shallot and chili, until a few tablespoons are left. Remove the chili according to preferred spiciness. Add butter and honey to taste. Set aside warm, but do not boil.
Cut the carrot and cucumber into juliennes. Mix with the beansprouts and steam for two minutes.
For the coriander oil, blend the leaves with virgin olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper to a thick paste.
Presentation
Place the vegetables in the centre of the plate, pour the sauce over the vegetables, and place the fish on top. Decorate with cilantro oil, chopped bell pepper, one slice of orange and cilantro. Serve with steamed or mashed Lao potatoes.
ONCE UPON
Cafe Once Upon a Time sees sister duo offer locally and globallyinspired caffeine and cuisine with a twist in the tale.
TEXT BY STEVEN A CLEARY PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
A TIME
The world is rich in folk culture and curious tales, and people have long given a knowing nod to the shadows among their hopes, fears and fantasies. Nowhere better represents a modern take on folklore than Once Upon a Time.
The latest branch of the popular cafe is located in the very heart of Vientiane’s visitor-friendly downtown on Francois Nginn Street, and represents a second foray following the original outlet in suburban Phonthan.
At first, the storybook moniker might mistakenly be taken by some as forewarning of a super-cutesy turn off, but get ready to check your assumptions at the door.
A glance around within the space reveals Once Upon A Time as no temple to kawaii style cuteness. It is rather a nod to a deeper, stronger and steelier side of femininity, illuminated in clean lines, simple shades and impeccable lighting.
In many ways the epitome of Laos’ upwardly mobile younger generation, the two twenty-something sisters who started Once Upon A Time certainly wouldn’t be the first to dream of opening a trendy café or two in the capital’s old town, and the rapidly expanding city beyond.
A sit-down with the siblings, Anita and Niny, reveals more of the steely resolve that has driven them this far.
“We believe that Lao coffee, if done properly, can be your favorite,” Niny shares.
“WE WANT TO OFFER GOOD LAO COFFEE, AND PRESENT LAO PRODUCTS IN A STYLISH ATMOSPHERE.”
MORE INFO
Once Upon A Time (Khamkong) is located on Rue Francois Ngin, Mixay Village, Vientiane and is open from 7am to 6pm daily.
The sisters like their business as they like their coffee; deep Lao roots in rich, dark soil, perfectly roasted to a perfectly complex blend of bitter and sweet, and then served with style in a fresh, clean, creative environment.
From siblings to business partners, the pair’s two similarly inspired yet uniquely presented outlets (downtown and suburban Phonthan) capture their personality, approach and expression, inspired by old and familiar fairy tales with a very 21st century appeal.
“We are trying to show off both Laos and our values via Once Upon a Time,” the gregarious Anita offers. “We have always wanted to promote Lao coffee at international standards and in international ways, so that’s why we have created what you can see here.”
“Our beans are ethically sourced here in Laos, from Paksong in Champasak and Dakcheung, Sekong. And when it comes to what you can see around us, the architect is Lao; everyone involved in the decorating is from Laos.”
“We want to offer good Lao coffee, and present Lao products in a stylish atmosphere.”
The sisters’ time spent abroad in the UK and Australia has inspired them to take the cafe plastic free.
“It’s not just a family business, but a family passion”, says Niny. And it’s certainly a family affair, with the sisters’ aunt scouring the organic market for the produce required to prepare delicious meals daily.
“So if you want to experience Laos in a different way, start here!”
Parkson Retail Group Ltd, is a subsidiary of Lion Group Malaysia, which became a publicly listed company on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange in 2005. Parkson operates 115 retail outlets across Asia, including shopping malls, department stores, and supermarkets. Its annual income reaches over 3.77 billion dollars.
2. What is Parkson preparing to do in Laos?
Parkson is preparing to open a shopping center in Laos located in Section A of the World Trade Center, next to Vientiane Center. In the future Parkson may invest in other activities such as property development, financial investment, duty free shopping, natural resources, and other areas.
3. How does Parkson position itself? Parkson is a quality shopping center for the community and for families within Laos.
4. What brands will Parkson be bringing to Laos?
The brands Parkson will be bringing to Laos will include international brands of cosmetics and international apparel. Parkson will also feature its own boutique supermarket, as well as food and beverage outlets from Thailand, China, and Malaysia. At the same time, Parkson will strive to attract even more international brands such as H&M, UNIQLO, KFC, McDonald’s and Starbucks to fill the gap in the Lao market.
5. What strategy will you use to attract customers to Parkson?
Parkson has a sound and proven business model which includes the Parkson Supermarket, Parkson Food Court, international cosmetics area, cinema, sports area, all types of Southeast Asian restaurants, gaming area, international clothing brands, children’s play area, training center, beauty and dental clinics.
Parkson guarantees that all products purchased in our shopping malls are genuine products authorized by their individual brand.
We will make every effort to ensure that our pricing is in line with that of products for sale in other countries to ensure an internationally accommodating consumer experience.
6. What kind of special activities or promotions will Parkson have?
Parkson will customize our promotion plan according to traditional festivals in Laos. We will also hold fashion shows, make-up shows, music festivals, food festivals, and occasionally invite Lao celebrities to the shopping mall.
7. What is the capacity for parking? The parking facilities at the shopping center include over 2,000 parking spaces. Parking will be free.
8. Do you have a plan to offer online shopping?
At the moment only the Parkson stores in China and Malaysia offer online shopping, because these countries have high populations and good conditions for online shopping. If the conditions in Laos were right, we would also offer online shopping here too.
9. How can we stay in the loop about Parkson’s promotions and activities? You can get all kinds of info about Parkson by following the PARKSON LAOS Facebook page. After opening, we will send promotional and event information to our members through our special membership system.
Wonders await as Pakbeng transforms itself from a stopover to a destination in its own right.
TEXT BY BERNIE ROSENBLOOM
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA & BERNIE ROSENBLOOM
A MEKONG OASIS
Forested mountains in wilderness proved highlights of my eight-hour ride aboard a Shompoo Cruise to “Destination Pakbeng”.
Some describe Pakbeng as little more than an overnight stop on the Thailand-Luang Prabang Mekong cruise. But I was getting a treasure map from Jai at the newly opened Le Grand Pakbeng Resort. It revealed tourism gems and real gold.
“We just introduced The Khmu Trail to tourists,” he said. “Mr Pheng, a local Khmu, will guide us.”
GETTING THERE
Pakbeng is an 8 hour slow boat cruise from Luang Prabang or from Houay Xay. Lao Airlines offers daily flights to Oudomxay, and then it is only a 3–4 hour drive to Pakbeng.
THE KHMU TRAIL
Morning began with coffee in silence on the villa’s terrace. The Mekong flowed below. Mountaintops peaked above a rim of fog. Passengers hurried to catch cruises. I relaxed until 10:00.
Our truck turned onto the Khmu Trail just outside town. The rough mountain road followed the Sengkham River past wandering livestock: goats, cows, chickens, ducks, and an albino buffalo.
We arrived at Houay Sengkham Village to find a stuck truck blocking the road. Never mind. The
steep riverbanks presented green swaths of mountain rice awaiting harvest.
We joined a woman stripping rice from stems that Pheng modified into flutes. He then challenged me to husk rice with a foot-powered wooden contraption.
Pheng explained “These folks grow enough rice for the village, and harvest in September. In November, when the river is low, they pan for gold.”
He said that lorry had come from a jungle mine. We walked past it to Souksay Village, and ate noodle soup. One man fished in the river. Soon, they’d all be here with pans.
MEKONG ELEPHANT PARK
We put the Khmu Trail on hold. I moved to the Sanctuary Pakbeng Lodge, and watched a Mekong sunset from my terrace.
After dinner, I joined Ben, the general manager, at the Moonlight restaurant’s lounge. The boat to Sanctuary’s Mekong Elephant Park would leave at 10:00 a.m.
A distant trumpeting elephant interrupted my morning coffee by the Mekong. Attention turned to the pachyderms bathing across the river.
The boat brought me to Wendy, the park manager, waiting at the sandy bank. She led the way to Meiping and adopted mother, Meikhram. Meiping nudged us with her trunk for attention. We locked eyes; I melted. She was a giant cuddly dog.
We trekked with Meiping to a village blacksmith and textile shop, and up a mountain path. She was a pet, who constantly stopped to eat flora. Walking with elephants easily beats riding. We were starting to bond.
left: Scenic views of the Mekong from Pakbeng
1. A sandy beach near Pakbeng
2. Trekking the Khmu Trail
3. Mekong Elephant Park
4. The Mekong from the top of Le Grand Pakbeng
BACK TO THE KHMU
Pheng telephoned during lunch. “Can you ride on my motorcycle?” Sure! We went straight to Ban Kham to complete the trail. “This is how people in Luang Prabang lived 20 years ago.”
We walked over to chat to an old topless woman smoking a cigar. A gang of 17 children followed us. One rolled a tyre with a stick. We watched girls pounding massive pestles into mortars of rice, before continuing to a burial site marking the trail’s end.
A night at the 20-year-old Luang Say Lodge maintained the yesteryear atmosphere. A giant wooden veranda served as reception, restaurant, bar, and lounge. The comfortable bungalows sat on the riverside.
I relaxed with my final morning coffee at Destination Pakbeng. Just an overnight on a cruise? You could call it an oasis on the Mekong.
Human resource development is a priority for Lao Tobacco.
TEXT BY LATSAMY PHONVILAY
PHOTOGRAPHS
BY PHOONSAB
THEVONGSA & LAO TOBACCO
Lao Tobacco was founded in 1957 and became a state enterprise in 1980. In 2001, it became a joint-venture company between the Government of the Lao PDR, S3T Singapore, and the Imperial Tobacco Group. The company contributes to society through its tax payments to the government, which place it in the top five Lao contributors to the national treasury, as well as assisting society through both cash and in-kind donations.
Lao Tobacco focuses on protecting the environment and the quality of its labor force, which have been certified as meeting ISO standards. The company has capacity development policies that include online training curricula and overseas study trips for employees. In addition to its in-house employees, the company supports its tobacco farmers with various plants, bio-fertilizers, and periodic training in order to provide them with employment and to improve the livelihoods of Lao farmers.
PROUD TO
CONTRIBUTE
Mr. Khamsouk Sinthone, Leaf Processing Manager, has worked with the company for 34 years: “the company is a team. Everyone contributes and can offer comments. The company looks after us like we are their family.”
Mr. Bounthavy Thongphan, Electrical Department Supervisor, has worked at Lao Tobacco for 19 years: “The things I like most about working at Lao Tobacco are the policies that focus on the livelihoods of its workers, such as: a nursery for children, a cafeteria, a gym, good wages, skills and knowledge development programs, and employee work reviews that are systematic and fair.”
Ms. Phetphaivanh Inthasane, Human Resources Manager, has worked at Lao Tobacco for 4 years: “I feel proud to be a part of Lao Tobacco, as it contributes to society. It doesn’t just give back to its employees, but also creates income for the farmers throughout the country.”
LAO AIRLINES NEWS | TIMETABLES | AIRLINE PARTNERS
FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES
FLIGHT CREW PROMOTIONS
Lao Airlines held a promotion ceremony for a number of pilots to become First Officers for ATR aircraft, and to promote First Officers of ATRs and Airbuses to become Captains on October 8, 2018. Joining President of Lao Airlines, Mr Bounma Chanthavongsa, at the event were company directors, department heads, and Lao Airlines employees.
The class of newly commissioned and promoted pilots was composed of:
(1) 11 new ATR pilots who studied at Nakhon Phanom University in Thailand and who were commissioned as First Officers; (2) two A320 First Officers who were promoted to Captain. Mr Sisavath Manivong, Human Resources Manager, said that the Department of Civil Aviation has approved the certification of A320 First Officers to fly long distances with a trainer, and that the ATR pilots are now full First Officers.
LAO AIRLINES AND THE WORLD FOOD ORGANIZATION COMBAT POVERTY
On August 5th, Lao Airlines held a signing ceremony with the World Food Organization on an agreement to assist with public awareness and nutrition in the Lao PDR, with a focus on activities in underprivileged and remote communities in order to improve food security, promote hygienic consumption, and nutritional planning.
The country is promoting development and improving livelihoods of its people in many areas, from socio-economic, to industrial-commercial, to education, and public health and more. Lao Airlines is prepared to facilitate and assist in public awareness and other tasks which are helpful to this project, so that it fulfills its objectives, which are beneficial to the Lao people.
LAO AIRLINES WELCOMES
NEW PRESIDENT
Lao Airlines officially welcomed a new president on September 24th. A handover ceremony was held at the headquarters of the state enterprise. Outgoing president Dr. Somphone Douangdara, who was assigned a new position in the Ministry of Public Works and Transport, handed over the reigns to newcomer Mr. Bounma Chanthavongsa. Minister of Public Works and Transport Bounchanh
Sinthavong spoke at the event, congratulating Mr Bounma Chanthavongsa on his official appointment, and reminded Lao Airlines employees to ensure that the airline remains efficient and successful. The ceremony was attended by government officials, employees of Lao Airlines, and guests.
