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BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com

NOVEMBER 2010


© 2010 Estée Lauder Inc.


INTRODUCING

SENSUOUS AFTER DARK The new fragrance for women. esteelauder.com/sensuousnoir


BALENCIAGA.COM

EXCLUSIVELY AT NEIMAN MARCUS & BERGDORF GOODMAN


INTRODUCING EAU DE PARFUM


NOVEMBER 2010 • VOLUME 94 • NUMBER 11

BEAUTY FASHION

®

On the cover: A showstopper, Love & Glamour reflects the elegantly extravagant, luxurious side of Jennifer Lopez. Surging with sparkling, juicy top notes, the fragrance lingers with a sexy bouquet of floral mid notes before wrapping you up in a smoldering musky dry down. Jennifer steps front and center once again. Lights. Camera. Passion. LOVE & GLAMOUR The next fragrance by Jennifer Lopez Available in fine department stores nationwide. www.jenniferlopezbeauty.com

ATCOUNTER 31

30

COUNTERINTELLIGENCE Dior Debuts New Installation At Lord & Taylor

THEBEAUTYBIZ 16

Industry Ear

24

Notes from Paris by Sarah Colton

25

Thia Breen Is A ‘Champion’

28

HBA Global Expo & Conference

31

Where Beauty Meets Business In New York City 30

Cosmetic Executive Women Honor 5 Achievers

32

Indursky Sets Course For bliss®

33

2010 Skin Sense Award Gala

35

CEW Retail Roundtable

62

People & Promotions

62

Boardroom Bulletins

33

© 2010 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.


© Clinique Laboratories, LLC

A second chance for every skin.

=dlAVhZg;dXjhhd[iZcha^cZh!lg^c`aZh!VcYhjcYVbV\Z. Sun, stress, pollution, late nights. Skin never forgets. Wrinkles arise. What if you could forgive the past and protect skin’s future? Use new Repairwear Laser Focus™ Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector and in 4 weeks see obvious reduction in lines, wrinkles, improved texture. The eye area will astound you. 6i&'lZZ`h!i]Zk^h^WaZlg^c`aZ"gZYjX^c\edlZg^hgZbVg`VWanXadhZ idVYZgbVidad\^XVaaVhZgegdXZYjgZ#+(!idWZZmVXi. Different commitment, different results and yet impressive results guaranteed. Proof beyond all doubt: See befores and afters at clinique.com


NOVEMBER 2010 • VOLUME 94 • NUMBER 11

BEAUTY FASHION

®

REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 37

San Francisco Beat by Raphaella Barkley

22

THEPARTYSCENE 22

On The Avenue

34

Girl’s Night Out

THELATESTLAUNCHES 23

Holiday Gift Sets Part III

26

Eaux Of Success Launches Promise New Spins On Scents

29

A Kit Of Beauty

36

In The Comfort Zone

24

EVERYMONTH 8

Editorial

63

CIBS Calendar

64

Beauty Fashion Calendar

25


EDiTORiAL

ONEONONE This month we feature interviews with two beauty industry leaders who share their visions for their companies as well as how they are navigating these challenging economic times. Givaudan’s CEO Gilles Andrier sat down with Beauty Fashion’s Paris’ Bureau Chief Sarah Colton to discuss his bold new 5-year strategy to position the company for expansion in both the fragrance and flavor business. Mr. Andrier explains how he is using the corporate size of Givaudan to their best advantage and pursuing growth opportunities. Mike Indursky, President of bliss® met with me to discuss his new role with the company and his plans for shaping the brand as a “lifestyle.” Mr. Indursky sees bliss® as “a unique, multi-level marketing model.” Beauty industry ‘heroes’ are celebrated in events that we cover in this issue. Thia Breen, President North America of The Estée Lauder Companies was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Circle of Champions. Cosmetic Executive Women honored five Achievers: Procter & Gamble’s Alex Keith, Clinique’s Janet Pardo, mark. and Avon Products’ Claudia Poccia, Carol’s Daughter’s Lisa Price and Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer. The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Skin Sense Award Gala helps promote awareness of this disease, and Beauty Fashion’s coverage highlights the leaders of this important effort. Our interest in what is happening at point-of-sale took us to the newly renovated beauty floor at New York City’s Lord & Taylor, where Dior Beauty opened its new, state-of-the-art installation. Dior Beauty’s installation “is an overwhelmingly light and beautiful space,” affirmed Brendan Hoffman, President & CEO of Lord & Taylor. Exploring the 18th annual HBA Global Expo and Conference at Manhattan’s Jacob K. Javits Center provided an insight into all facets of the beauty and personal care industries. We highlight the informative seminars and speakers at this meeting. Thanksgiving presents a time for us to express gratitude for family, friends and our American way of life. I give thanks for our readers and for the people who drive the sales every day at retail.

Adelaide P. Farah Group Editorial Director

NOVEMBER 2010 /

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DEDICATED TO BREAKING THE CYCLE OF DATING ABUSE AND VIOLENCE

1 IN 5 TEENS IN A SERIOUS RELATIONSHIP REPORT BEING PHYSICALLY ABUSED BY A PARTNER. YOU CAN HELP. 100% of the net proceeds from the sale of the linked to my heart bracelet ($21.63) are donated directly to m.powerment by mark., a philanthropic initiative dedicated to breaking the cycle of dating abuse and partner violence by awarding grants to organizations which share this mission. Through the sale of items, like the linked to my heart bracelet, more than $500,000 has been raised and awarded for education and prevention programs in communities all over the country! Bracelets are available through your Representative or at meetmark.com. * Managed by the Avon Foundation for Women.


CominGUP ER B M E DEC

• Lord & Taylor’s Beauty Floor Makeover • Laura Geller discusses new initiatives for Beauty Ingenuity • Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars

'()

BEAUTY www.beautyf

ashion.com

Let

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FASH ION

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OCTOBER 2010

FASHION®

be your guide to the business of beauty. y TY U A E B N FASH IO shion.com

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• The Fragrance Foundation’s Breakfast with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Carol Russo • Sniffapaloozas’ fall fragrance trail in Manhattan • Holiday Gift Sets Part IV • The Fragrance Foundation’s “State of the Industry” • CEW’s seminar on “The Art of Fragrance” • Glamour’s Women of the Year Awards • The Fragrance Foundation’s Autumn Harvest Every Month • Industry Ear

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what wh is happening in the cosmetic and fragrance industry. Every week, Cosmetic World sets the standard for news in the world of beauty.

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2010

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BEAUTY FASHION

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR

John G. Ledes

212-840-8800 ext. 241

jledes@beautyfashion.com

ext. 234

gledes@cosmeticworld.com

ext. 225

afarah@beautyfashion.com

ext. 245

ddavis@beautyfashion.com

ext. 224

ladams@beautyfashion.com

ext. 248

hbiegel@cosmeticworld.com

ext. 252

jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com

PRESIDENT AND CEO

George Ledes GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Adelaide P. Farah ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Debra Davis ASSISTANT EDITOR

Lindsey E. Adams DIRECTORY EDITOR

Howard Biegel

CREATIVE DIRECTOR & GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Jennifer Drucker PHOTOGRAPHER

Eric Michelson

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CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673

Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com

France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Australia Andrea Ferrari Fax: 011-331-45885386 andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au

UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com

Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065

Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es

REGIONAL COLUMNISTS

Los Angeles To La Jolla, CA Sharon Esche Irving tel.: (760) 414-3370 sharon@beauty-pr.com

Ontario, Canada Charmaine Gooden tel.: (416) 785-3068 gooden@rogers.com

St. Louis, MO Clare Adrian tel.: (573) 449-7009 clare@claritivity.com

Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com

Columbia, SC Shelley Hill Young tel.: (803) 312-1322 fax: (803) 771-8430 shelley.hill.young@gmail.com

South Florida Brigitte Grosjean tel.: (305) 695-8667 brigitteny@aol.com

Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com

Boston, MA Lena Watts tel.: (617) 504-9525 lenawatts@hotmail.com

Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (469) 569-1117 ethnictalent@hotmail.com

Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com

Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com

Washington, DC Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com

Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com

Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net

San Francisco Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 RaphaellaBrescia@msn.com


OU B EXC GR TR ST RIL EPTIOAND EM AN L N A I AR D A L NO KABILNG NT TE E

D IM AZZ PR LIN E G

SUP SSIV E E R WO B R THY

Congratulations to the 2010 CEW ACHIEVER AWARD WINNERS


THEBEAUTYBIZ

INDUSTRYear

The Fragrance Foundation will be Nicholas Munafo has With a commithosting its annual State of been named President of the newly ment to preserving the Industry Luncheon formed division, LVMH Fragrance Brands, the environment and on November 18 at consisting of Parfums Givenchy, Kenzo, Pucci and safeguarding biodiversity, The Harvard Club. The Fendi. Mr. Munafo takes over this position from JC Givaudan is launching economic review and Gandon, the General Manager of Parfums Givenchy, a book this month forecast will feature Kenzo, Pucci and Fendi US. He will begin his LVMH endorsed by the Convention keynote speaker, career on December 1, 2010, and will collaborate with on Biological Diversity and Peter Siris, Managing Mr. Gandon for a smooth transition. Mr. Munafo most written by the company’s Director of Guerilla recently was the President Scientist, Roman Capital Management of Beauté Prestige InterKaiser titled and Author & Columnist national, a division Scent of the for the New York WSL of Shiseido. Vanishing Daily News. Strategic Flora. Retail’s study How Singer-Songwriter America Shops® From Buzz to Carrie Underwood is the new Buy reported on how social ambassador for Olay. The 27-year-old, media was used for shopping. GRAMMY Award-winning artist amplifies The study showed that 75% of a positive message for a new generation of shoppers surveyed used a social women, to challenge their own skin’s possibilinetworking site (SNS) in the last ties with the latest advances in skincare from month, and that 45% used their Olay, as part of the brand’s “Challenge What’s SNS for a shopping related Possible” campaign. In her new role with Olay, activity. For buying advice, Ms. Underwood will also represent a line of 13% of shoppers turned to an skincare products for the brand. To date, SNS, but though that may she has sold more than 12 million Carrie Underwood seem like a small figure, albums and recently placed her 45% of those surveyed LVMH now 13th song at #1 on the were checking in with their friends on holds 17.1% of charts. Facebook or Myspace before the share capital for Shiseido Sephora they made a purchase. Hermès International. After will commence North America settling derivatives contracts, this percentage sales of cosmetics announces the launch has increased from the previous products, including holding of 14.2%. of Sephora to Go, a ground-breaking new global brand SHISEIDO app for the iPhone, iPad and iTouch, providing skincare and makeup lines, access to Sephora, wherever and whenever. in the Republic of Colombia via a local distributor, WISA Available free on iTunes, this app melds the Group Ltd. (located in Colon, Panama). With this endeavor, ease and functionality of unique features Shiseido overseas cosmetic sales will encompass including scanning options, videos 81 countries and regions throughout and “today’s obsession,” a the world. ICON Sephora showcase of product Beauty Americas favorites. Michael LLC is the Donald announced that it has signed a joint Edwards’ exclusive sales Loftus, President venture agreement with Grupo Axo to latest edition of his representation establish a retail presence in Mexico, one and CEO of P&G fragrance reference book, organization for of the most important and well-developed Prestige, U.S has Fragrances of the World 2011, the Histoires been named the fragrance and cosmetics markets in Latin will be available in January. de Parfums Chairman of America. Sephora will begin operations Included in this version, brand in the Fashion Group with two store openings in the second Mr. Edwards incorporates United International’s half of 2011 and additional store 850 new fragrances. States. Board of openings targeted each year Directors. thereafter. NOVEMBER 2010 /

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INDUSTRYear

MIN’S MONTHLY BOXSCORES

Shiseido aims to strengthen its luxury brand Clé Clarisonic has Jennifer de Peau, in the global high partnered with Look Good…Feel prestige cosmetics market, by Balbier has been Better, a national public service program fusing its domestic and overnamed Senior Vice that helps women with cancer feel empowered seas marketing. Beginning President, Global Product with Japan in January 2011, and beautiful. Clarisonic will donate a portion Development, Artistry Brands, 21 basic skincare products of its sales from several of their products, as The Estée Lauder Companies, will be consecutively well as $1.00 for every “like” they overseeing all product development launched and 11 receive on Facebook. for M.A.C Cosmetics, countries thereSELF published its Bobbi Brown and Smashbox after will 19th Women’s Cancer Handbrands. Ms. Balbier formerly follow. book in October, with Modern Family held the position of Senior Vice star and thyroid-cancer survivor Sofía President Global Product DevelVergara on the cover. October being “Breast opment, M.A.C Cosmetics and Cancer Awareness Month” and the symbolic will continue to report to John “pink ribbon” are legacies of SELF and its Demsey, Group President, The founding editor (1979) Phyllis Wilson, who Estée Lauder Companies and passed away from the disease in 1987. Harvey Gedeon, Executive Vice Steve Cohn President Global R&D and Editor In Chief Product Innovation. Jennifer Balbier Media Industry News Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2010 Title OCT 2010 OCT 2009

Allure Cosmopolitan Elle Glamour Harper’s Bazaar InStyle Lucky Marie Claire Vogue W

179.06 148.45 324.83 184.45 246.12 243.68 119.39 187.37 221.65 102.98

161.42 143.44 220.42 185.42 191.77 203.93 122.26 150.20 174.50 103.06

Just the numbers...

Parlux Fragrances, Inc. announced that the first six months ending September 30 were approximately $62 million, compared to approximately $80 million in the comparative prior year. Prior year figures include $28 million of GUESS sales, now an expired license. New fragrance launches, including Rihanna (Spring 2011) and Vince Camuto (Fall 2011), are anticipated to grow the company’s revenues and profitability, as they anticipate net sales of approximately $150 million in fiscal 2012. L’Oréal reports continuous strong growth in its third quarter earnings, confirming the clear upturn in sales recorded since the start of the year, with the group’s sales at September 30 amounting to €14.52 billion. In the first nine months of 2010, Givaudan recorded sales of CHF 3,283 million, a strong increase of 9.8% in local

% of Diff.

YTD 2010

YTD 2009

10.93 3.49 47.37 -0.52 28.34 19.49 -2.35 24.75 27.02 -0.08

978.08 1,244.26 1,874.16 1,311.59 1,403.13 2,040.08 946.79 1,088.79 947.06 848.17

948.10 1,145.65 1,650.34 1,195.76 1,216.52 1,834.25 957.88 917.55 1,652.26 873.49

3.16 8.61 13.56 9.69 15.34 11.22 -1.16 18.66 17.84 -2.90

currencies and 8.5% in Swiss francs with both fine fragrance and flavor divisions contributing to this good result. LVMH has achieved revenue of €14.2 billion in the first nine months of 2010, an increase of 19% compared to the same period in 2009. Limited Brands, Inc. reported comparable store sales of $735.8 million, an increase of 12% for the five weeks ended Oct. 2, 2010, compared to the five weeks ended Oct. 3, 2009, which brought in $654.8 million. Symrise AG has issued a bond with a volume of €300 million. The bond, offered to institutional and retail investors in Europe, has a duration of seven years and a coupon of 4.125%. It will be used for an early redemption of existing debt and to establish a longer term financing for the company.

Got any news for the Ear? Email us at afarah@beautyfashion.com NOVEMBER 2010 /

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THEPARTYSCENE

Kim Kardashian’s Scent Debuts Victorinox’s Snow Flower and Snow Power in a display at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street

Kim Kardashian presents her new fragrance at Macy’s/Herald Square.

Macy’s Linda Levy and Muriel Gonzalez at the Kim Kardashian fragrance event Bloomingdale’s 59th Street showcases several Victorinox products. One of Ms. Kardashian’s fans has his photo taken with her.

Hundreds of loyal fans lined up at New York City’s Macy’s/Herald Square on October 27 for the opportunity to purchase a bottle of the new Kim Kardashian fragrance and have a photo with the mega-celebrity.

Victorinox At Bloomies Victorinox’s Bloomingdale’s 59th Street Business Manager Sheresa Rohoman

Victorinox’s Pierre Salamon, Vice President, Global Training & Business Development, Victorinox Fragrance’s Ben Gillikin and Vera Strubi with Victorinox Swiss Army Fragrance Sales Manager Francisco Diaz

This fall, Victorinox launched Snow Flower for her and Snow Power for him, exclusively at Bloomingdale’s. These two limited-edition fragrances come to enrich the existing Victorinox Swiss Unlimited fragrance with an extra touch of “Swissness,” capturing the feeling of a NOVEMBER 2010 /

Victorinox’s Snow Flower and Snow Powder join Victorinox’s fashion and travel gear in a display.

crisp winter’s most wonderful moments in Switzerland. In an effort to incorporate all Victorinox product categories that are sold at Manhattan’s Bloomingdale’s 59 th Street location—Swiss Army Knife, Household Cutlery, Timepieces, Travel Gear, Fashion and of course, Fragrance—the Victorinox teams planned an event called Victorinox Passport to Switzerland. Consumers visited each Victorinox department within Bloomingdale’s to receive a brief overview on the product category and have their passport stamped with the famous Cross and Shield brand logo. Once completed, the consumer entered a prize drawing to win an all expenses-paid first-class trip to Switzerland for two, as well as other Victorinox prizes.

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THEPARTYSCENE

on the avenue


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on the avenue Hamptons Film Festival

Paper Magazine Salutes Womanity Photos by Nick Hung/PatrickMcMullan.com

Lampe Berger and the EasyScent Home Fragrance System’s van at the Hamptons International Film Festival Christophe de Lataillade, Mickey Boardman and Paper Magazine’s Kim Hastreiter (3rd r.) with Clarins Group USA’s Tanya Pushkine, Jonathan Zrihen and Lionel Uzan

Mr. Uzan and Mr. Zrihen (r.) with Joey Arias

Kim Hastreiter, Founder, Co-Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of Paper Magazine, hosted a Power Lunch at New York City’s Four Seasons Restaurant on September 28. An intimate group of style-setting New Yorkers joined Clarins

GSA winner Jill Andresevic

GSA winner Tom Hopper

Lampe Berger with its new EasyScent Home Fragrance System was the Signature Sponsor of the Hamptons International Film Festival in East Hampton, New York on October 7-11. Golden Starfish Awards (GSA) were presented to pioneering narrative, short and documentary filmmakers.

Natural Health Awards

Ms. Hastreiter (r.) shows Iris Apfel the new Womanity by Thierry Mugler

Natural Health’s Peg Moline and Kristen Elliot

Natural Health celebrated its 6th annual Beauty Awards on October 18 with a cocktail reception and ceremony at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Over 5,000 allnatural beauty and skincare products were narrowed down to a selection of 25 winners, chosen by both Editors and readers.

Turkish Delight

Mr. Zrihen (2nd r.) with Valerie Steele, Rosson Crow and Suzanne Geiss

Group USA’s President and CEO Jonathan Zrihen, Clarins Group USA’s Tanya Pushkine, Vice-President Public Relations and Clarins Fragrance Group’s Senior VicePresident Lionel Uzan in a celebration of the new fragrance Womanity by Thierry Mugler. NOVEMBER 2010 /

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour introduced his new fragrance, Traversée du Bosphore at Henri Bendel on October 7. BF

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L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour holds Traversée du Bosphore, inspired by his travels to Istanbul, Turkey. / B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


Part III

H liday Gift Sets

THELATESTLAUNCHES

Flirty, fashionable and fun, Coach brings to you the fruity, floral gourmand Poppy fragrance. Included in this set is a 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum, 5 oz. Body Lotion and a .34 oz. Limited Edition Rollerball for the price of $85.00. AROMATIQUE The Smell Of Christmas® Gift Box

All the fragrances that evoke the holidays; citrus and spice, evergreen sprigs and cinnamon sticks, red berries, nuts and pine cones, come together in The Smell of Christmas® Gift Box that contains a 4 oz. decorative potpourri fragrance, .5 oz. of refresher oil and a 5 oz. candle for the retail price of $26.00 and is available at shoparomatique.com. AVEDA Ritual Of Relief

Calm your mind and energize your senses with this popular set. Included are both full(125 ml) and travel(40 ml) size versions of Hand Relief and Foot Relief and a tagua nut hair band, packaged in a custom gift box for the price of $44.00.

also includes a tagua nut hair band for $26.00. Balancing Ritual

this set is a 3.4 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray, 3 oz. Shimmering Body Lotion, 3 oz. Bath & Shower Gel, .25 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray and an Original Ed Hardy Tattoo Design Luggage Tag for $75.00.

Sensory Treasures

Give the gift of an indulgent at-home spa this holiday season with this set including a 6 oz. Soothing Aqua Therapy, 250 ml Replenishing Moisturizer, 30 ml Lavender Fleurs Singular Note, 8 ml Chakra Balancing Body Mist #4: Anahata, a tagua nut hair band and a Chakra ritual card for the price of $62.00. Grounding Ritual

Stay grounded this holiday season with this 4.4 oz. soy wax aromatherapy candle with certified organic essential oils of cassia, vanilla and vetiver. Packaged in a 100% reclaimed amber glass container, the candle

An 8 ml “root” Chakra Balancing Body Mist, 30 ml Sandalwood Singular Note, 40 ml Foot Relief, Chakra ritual card and a tagua nut hair band combine to create a collection that enhances balance and keeps you centered. Packaged in a gift box for the price of $42.50. NEW WAVE FRAGRANCES True Religion Drifter for Men

Truly live the bohemian essence of True Religion with this gift set featuring their newest scent for men. Included in this collection is a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray, 3 oz. Hair and Body Wash, 2.74 oz. Deodorant Stick and .25 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray for the price of $79.00. Born Wild Women Special Value Gift Set Immerse yourself in this sexy and adventurous scent and see where it takes you. Included in

Born Wild Men Special Value Gift Set

For the rebel with a sophisticated edge, this cutting edge essence is the finishing touch to your everyday style. With this set, receive a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette, 3 oz. Hair & Body Wash, 2.75 oz. Deodorant Stick, .25 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray and Luggage Tag with Original Ed Hardy Tattoo Design for $75.00. Love and Luck Men Holiday Gift Set

Bring a little mystery into the holiday season with this daring and fresh scent! Receive a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette, 3 oz. Hair & Body Wash, 2.75 oz. Deodorant Stick, .25 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray and (Continued on page 38)

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THELATESTLAUNCHES

COACH Poppy Deluxe Holiday Set


FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

PARIS

by Sarah Colton

GILLES ANDRIER, CEO OF GIVAUDAN, PREVIEWS 5-YEAR STRATEGY Bold new 5-Year Strategy heralds a new era of creativity, innovation, and profitable growth as Givaudan continues to outperform the market and further expand its leading position in the fragrance and flavors industry. G i l l e s A n d r i e r, C E O o f Givaudan, met with Beauty Fashion to discuss Givaudan’s plans for the future impact of the entire industry, as the world market leader in fragrances and flavors. GILLES ANDRIER Before talking about Givaudan’s strategy for the new 5-year cycle, it’s important to summarize the substantive points of the most recent cycle which was notable for two reasons: the successful integration of Quest and the successful ‘weathering of the storm’ of the financial crisis which hit in 2009. SUCCESSFUL INTEGRATION OF QUEST Givaudan bought Quest three years ago, and the integration was successful in terms of combining the best of Quest and the best of Givaudan. The positive dynamics of this merger have been phenomenal, from a financial as well as a human point of view, with people from both companies working well together to establish a strong platform going forward. WEATHERING THE FINANCIAL CRISIS The financial crisis, which hit in 2009, both tested and substantiated Givaudan’s strength and resilience in the face of adverse market conditions. At the onset of the crisis, the general assumption was that the fragrances and flavors industry in general would be more resilient than other sectors, such as the automobile industry, because people have to eat, drink, wash, and carry out basic needs. This assumption, of course, had yet to be proven though, because the last huge financial crisis had been in 1929. A second unproven assumption was that within the fragrance and flavors industry, Givaudan, with the

addition of Quest, which made it 50% bigger—the total number of Givaudan employees grew from 6,500 to 8,300—would navigate the crisis in a better way and perhaps even come out stronger than before. In both counts the assumptions were proven to be correct. In 2009, despite the ravages of the crisis, the fragrances and flavors industry declined only 3% overall, [as compared, for example, to the automobile industry which declined 10%], while Givaudan grew 2% in this declining market, and actually gained market share. So, the successful integration of Quest and the successful weathering of the financial crisis storm has meant that the close of this previous cycle was very, very satisfactory. The new cycle is about leveraging the huge capabilities of Givaudan to continue to outgrow the market. CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF GIVAUDAN AS A PUBLICLY TRADED STOCK Ten years ago, in 2000, Givaudan was first listed on the Zurich Stock Exchange. At the time, we had 12% market share, compared to today, we have 25%. This strong financial performance can be attributed to a combination of acquisitions and organic growth during which Givaudan evolved from a small division of Hoffmann-La Roche in the 1990s to the clear leader of this industry. Our core aspiration over the past 10 years was to attain the Number One leadership position, and, having successfully done this, we will continue to strive daily to deserve it vis a vis our clients, the ultimate, and only true arbiters. USING SIZE TO OUR ADVANTAGE In maintaining this Number One position, size matters. We are the biggest overall, and we are also the biggest in every segment in every region. But size is not the only deciding factor of leadership, and from a client’s perspective, biggest does not necessarily mean best. We need to use our size to our best advantage, and there are numerous ways to do this. USING OUR BUSINESS MODEL—‘SMALL IN THE MIDDLE OF BIG’ Givaudan has 35 in-house fine fragrance Perfumers, each with associated support teams, and one way that our large size is advantageous is that we can access this large number of people to create numerous small teams, each dedicated exclusively to one client or one project. This extraordinary capacity is only possible if you have a (Continued on page 41)

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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

NOTES FROM


THI A B R

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he Fragrance Foundation honored Thia Breen, President North America of The Estée Lauder Companies as the eleventh honoree to be inducted into the Circle of Champions. Ms. Breen was celebrated and ‘roasted’ at a dinner held at New York City’s St. Regis Roof on October 5. Rochelle Bloom, President of The Fragrance Foundation, described Ms. Breen as a “poster child for integrity as well as a role model and teacher.” Ms. Breen follows past inductees including Leonard Lauder, Guy Peyrelongue, Annette Green, John Ledes and Donald Loftus. After dinner, Mr. Loftus, President and CEO of P&G Prestige US and last year’s ‘Champion,’ invited Ms. Breen to take a seat center stage for the ‘roast’ in the program “This Is Your Life.” Nancy McKay, Senior Vice President, Estée Lauder North America said it takes “a zero number of minutes for Thia to ‘get it.’” Laurie Dowley, Vice President of Elizabeth Arden, accompanied by a pianist, sang “That’s Why the Lady Is a Champ,” to paraphrase a Cole Porter song. Mr. Loftus wrapped up the evening with a hilarious toast to Ms. Breen’s early years growing up in central Minnesota. “She got her first sense of ‘space and location’ when she helped out in her father’s drugstore.” Ms. Breen graciously thanked all of the employees and Fragrance Sales Specialists of The Estée Lauder Companies. She credited Estée Lauder with awakening women to buy fragrances for themselves when she introduced the iconic Youth Dew in 1953. “Fragrance Sales Specialists love to sell fragrances, and we should thank them for closing the sale. They invite customers to experience fragrance every day.”

The Estée Lauder Companies’ William Lauder and Thia Breen with Scott Beattie and Laurie Dowley of Elizabeth Arden

Avon/mark.’s Claudia Poccia and Mike Gould of Bloomingdale’s

Teen Vogue’s Sabine Feldman, Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline and Caroline Pieper-Vogt (r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore

The Estée Lauder Companies’ John Demsey and Allen Burke of QVC

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THELATESTLAUNCHES LA AT A TESTL E LAU

Launches Promise New Spins On Scents According to The Fragrance Foundation’s Fragrance Trends Forecast 2010, fragrance will be purchased in surprising new ways. Their research revealed that Internet and home shopping networks will be good vehicles for fragrance sales. “Pop-ups” will continue to offer an exciting and new “hurry before it leaves” experience for scent shoppers. There will be perfume on-the-go. There will be even bigger emphasis on samples so customers can try before they buy as well as smaller sizes to purchase, which is not such a big commitment. Sephora’s “Top Ten” gathered from research of an active online community of shoppers is a trusted indicator of consumer preferences. It will be more important to engage the consumer with discoveries in scents and the presence of “eye candy” to engage her interest. The Fragrance Foundation also recommends that lifestyle brands with strong followings should launch a signature scent. Here are the fragrances that are now at-counter to generate pre-holiday excitement.

JOIE DE VIVRE The image for Love, Chloé exudes spontaneous femininity and contagious beauty. Chloé loves life, makes others smile with her natural charm and in her every move. Her fragrance is a tribute to her unique personality, her aura and her symbol. Love, Chloé, introduced by Coty Prestige, was developed by Givaudan’s Perfumers Louise Turner and Nathalie Cetto-Gracia. Following in the theme of Chloé’s fragrance history, Love, Chloé is inspired by the intimacy of the beauty ritual. Its airy cloud softens the skin and imparts a fine, powdery scent, which is iridescent and musky and is a concentrate of emotions. “To reproduce the cult powdery signature, we had to play with the abstract and resist the pitfall of a figurative bouquet,” Ms. Turner explained. The scent opens on a top note of orange blossom and pink pepper. Its heart of iris absolute, lilac, hyacinth, wisteria blossom and heliotropine Love, Chloé is blends to a base of musks, talc and rice powder. very distinct from the signature Love, Chloé’s flacon, created by Bormioli Luigi, is a slender golden Chloé fragrance. bottle with a subtle tone of pink set on a gold metallic base with the name engraved on the front. A delicate gold chain, a nod to the Chloé fashion house, fastens the cap. “The simplicity of Chloé fashion is translated to the flacon and outer package,” informed Ava Huang, Vice President of Coty Prestige. The scent launched at Saks Fifth Avenue and Chloé Boutiques in October and will roll out to specialty stores early next year. The fragrance comes in a 50 ml Eau de Parfum for $85.00 and 75 ml, $110.00. Ancillary products include 200 ml sizes of Shower Gel and Body Lotion for $50.00 and $45.00 respectively. Love, Chloé will be promoted by an advertising campaign directed by Roman Coppola and starring Raquel Zimmermann. It was photographed by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The creative agency is Petronio Associates headed by Ezra Petronio. NOVEMBER 2010 /

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DEEP, DARK AND MYSTERIOUS The advertising image for Estée Lauder

Estée Lauder has followed up its introduction of Sensuous Noir stars Supermodel Sensuous in 2008, which created the woody amber Carolyn Murphy and reinforces the Estée Lauder woman who is not only fragrance category, with new Sensuous Noir, a confident and strong but also seductively more intense expression of sensuality. It suggests and intriguingly feminine. the soft, seductive and mysterious curves of a feminine silhouette. “Sensuality as an experience and as an emotion has a very broad spectrum of expression,” declared Karyn Khoury, Senior Vice President of Corporate Fragrance Development Worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. “There are many moods, many facets, many shades of sensuality, which range from the more luminous expression of Sensuous to deeper, darker, more mysterious Estée Lauder’s expressions. This concept of further exploring a darker, more Sensuous Noir is mysterious olfactive territory and deeper shades of sensuality a deeper, more mysterious and inspired the creation of Sensuous Noir. even more captiSensuous Noir begins with a Feminine Accord of exotic purple vating expression rose, rose essence, jasmine and black pepper. Its Seductive Accord of of feminine sensuality. Melted Wood NaturePrint, Crème Noir Accord, patchouli and prisma is based on a Mysterious Accord of benzoin, vanilla, honey and amber. The fragrance is presented in a deep, intense version of the signature Sensuous flacon to reflect this new expression of sensuality. The bottle’s design maintains the luxurious, spherical shape, delicate fluting and sophisticated rose golden cap of the original fragrance, but has a deep purple hue to suggest intense sensuality and brings greater depth to the silhouette. The exterior packaging features a coordinating, rich, deeply intense purple shade. Available in a 1 oz. size for $48.00 and 1.7 oz., $60.00, Sensuous Noir is available now at all Estée Lauder counters nationwide and at esteelauder.com. It is supported by an advertising campaign created by Doug Lloyd of Lloyd and Co. in collaboration with Aerin Lauder, Senior Vice President and Creative Director of Estée Lauder. It was shot by Photographer Craig McDean and features Supermodel Carolyn Murphy in a sleekly feminine and luxurious black silk shirt. The campaign has the tagline “Estée Lauder Sensuous Noir. Sensuous After Dark.”

The Daisy Marc Jacobs Solid Perfume Ring is a new spin on the original.

FRESH AS DAISY There is a modern twist on the original Daisy Marc Jacobs Solid Perfume Dome Ring. This modern, playful accessory with a vintage feel, is the fashionista’s way to wear the Daisy fragrance. The over-sized ring captures the free-spirited nature of Daisy, with a scattering of daisies across the large, black lacquer dome. The ring is placed in a black velvet pouch. The Daisy Marc Jacobs Solid Perfume Dome Ring is priced at $42.00 and is available now for a limited time only. (Continued on page 45)

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

Where Beauty Meets Business In New York City

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t the 18th annual HBA Global Expo and Conference, held at the Jacob K. Javits Center from September 28-30, all facets of the beauty and personal care industries converged. Produced by United Business Media (UBM), HBA Global was packed with over 600 exhibitor showcases featuring new product developments, informational seminars and an opportune chance for industry professionals to connect, with attendance totaling 16,479. The event kicked off with a keynote speech from Pamela Baxter, President and CEO of LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics North America, regaling attendees with stories from her earliest days at the beauty counter to her present day position as a leading force in the cosmetics industry. In a field that inherently evokes emotion and passion, raises self-esteem and is one of the few affordable luxuries, Ms. Baxter implored the audience to work “with passion, take risks and be flexible.” After Ms. Baxter’s address, Brian Mullaney, Co-founder of SMILE TRAIN, an organization that wholly funds both cleft lip and palate correctional surgery for millions of children in developing countries and surgical training to local doctors, presented the second annual Positively Beautiful award to Model and Philanthropist Christie SMILE TRAIN’s Brian Mullaney, Christie Brinkley and Pamela Baxter of Brinkley, for her participation in raising awareness for LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics this charity. As she accepted her award, Ms. Brinkley acknowledged the tremendous importance that a smile possesses and recognized that children with clefts are not only born without the ability to smile, but also without the possibility of attending school and often forgo marriage (a fundamental partnership in poorer nations). This surgery transforms the lives of those afflicted with the deforming condition, and although it is a quick and relatively inexpensive procedure, cleft surgery has been widely unavailable. Ms. Brinkley shared that approximately 94% of all donations to SMILE TRAIN come from compassionate individuals. Over thirty seminars offered this year at HBA Global, including “The Anti-Aging Path: Where No One Has Gone Before” and “Social Media: Marketing For The 21st Century,” gave industry leaders an opportunity to speak openly and share their expertise. Lectures provided various learning opportunities within multiple components of the cosmetic and personal care industries. “The Changing Face of Beauty Distribution,” which featured Howard Kreitzman, Vice President, Cosmetics and Perfume of Bloomingdale’s, Marla Malcolm Beck, The exhibitor’s floor at HBA Global Expo (Continued on page 47) NOVEMBER 2010 /

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HBA GLOBAL EXPO & CONFERENCE


THELATESTLAUNCHES

THELATESTLAUNCHES

A KIT OF BEAUTY The Web site Net-A-Porter.com, launched in 2000 in the style of a fashion magazine, offers the style-savvy customer what she wants. It features the hottest looks of the season with international labels and high-fashion editorial updated weekly. Net-A-Porter recently collaborated with Estée Lauder to produce The Beauty Guide to looking your best. The content is a carefully edited presentation of products from high-tech skincare to high-gloss makeup. Showcasing fashion looks to accompany beauty products and tips, the guide also includes interviews with Estée Lauder’s Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux and Estée Lauder’s Senior Vice President and Creative Director Aerin Lauder. The great style and beauty of screen legends Jane Fonda, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe are recalled with looks inspired by all three for today. For those who travel, there is “Beauty On The Go” and for sheer pampering, the world’s The Beauty Guide to looking most glamorous spas are featured in “Heaven On Earth.” your best is a collaboration of The 40-page guide is included in all Net-A-Porter and esteelauder.com Net-A-Porter.com and Estée Lauder. customer orders while supplies last. The makeup and skincare products appearing in the guide are linked to the Estée Lauder Web site for customers to purchase.

ICING IT

The Flaunt beauty collection produced by The Maesa Group in collaboration with ICING, a retail concept of Claire’s Stores, Inc.

The Maesa Group worked with the ICING stores to design and conceive a line that would capture the retro spirit of the 1940’s and 1950’s but still relate to the modern girl with a definitive vixen attitude. The line, named Flaunt, is a flirty, fun beauty assortment with a vintage appeal. The collection uses signature pin-up girl characters to create a personality for every look. Some of the names in the branding are (Continued on page 48)

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COSMETIC EXECUTIVE WOMEN

HONORS 5 ACHIEVERS

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ollowing in the footsteps of remarkable women honored by Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) for the past 35 years, this year’s inspiring honorees were cheered by those attending the 2010 Achiever Awards at New York City’s Waldorf=Astoria on October 1. The women selected to receive this year’s awards were: Alex Keith, Vice President of Procter & Gamble; Janet Pardo, Senior Vice President, Global Product Development, Clinique; Claudia Poccia, Global President, mark., Avon Products, Inc.; Lisa Price, Founder, Carol’s Daughter and Lori Singer, Group Vice President, Global Marketing, Coty Prestige. The Corporate Empowerment for Women (C.E.W.) Award was given to Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc.

Clinique’s Janet Pardo, mark., Avon Products’ Claudia Poccia, Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer, Procter & Gamble’s Alex Keith and Carol’s Daughter’s Lisa Price

Procter & Gamble’s Gina Drosos and Esi Eggleston Bracey (r.) with Carlotta Jacobson of CEW

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Fabrizio Freda, Thia Breen, Evelyn Lauder and William Lauder

Neutrogena’s Susan Sweet and Stefano Curti of Johnson & Johnson

Procter & Gamble’s Bruce Katzman, Marc Pritchard, Ms. Bracey, Ms. Keith, Ms. Drosos, Ed Shirley, Brent Miller and Kelly Vanasse

(Continued on page 51) NOVEMBER 2010 /

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CEW


AT-COUNTER

DIOR BEAUTY Debuts New Installation At

LORD & TAYLOR On October 1, Lord & Taylor and Dior Beauty celebrated the opening of the brand’s state-ofthe-art installation showcasing color, skincare and fragrance. “This has been a long-overdue renovation [for the store],” declared Terry Darland, President, Parfums Christian Dior for North America. “Not since 1975 has Lord & Taylor’s cosmetics floor been under a complete overhaul. The old Dior bay was a 150 square-foot generic space that was falling apart. This new installation is double that in size and a million times more beautiful and glamorous. I like to think of it as going from a 1960’s VW bug to a 2010 Mercedes Benz.”

Dior Beauty’s Lorraine Mushio and Terry Darland (r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore and Brendan Hoffman at the ribboncutting for the new installation

Lord & Taylor’s Liz Rodbell joins Mr. Hoffman, Ms. Darland and Ms. Zinn-Moore in a celebratory moment.

“Thanks to Dior Beauty for an overwhelmingly light and beautiful space,” affirmed Brendan Hoffman, President & CEO of Lord & Taylor at the ribbon-cutting. “Our appreciation goes to Terry and [Lord & Taylor’s Senior Vice President/ GMM] Barbara Zinn-Moore’s teams for their support. “The bay’s location ties in to the overall renovation of the department,” explained Dior Beauty’s Bill Shaffer, Senior Vice President of Store Design and Visual Merchandising for North America. “We have traction down the main aisle.” According to Mr. Shaffer, the design of the installation was a collaboration between Dior Beauty’s market team in Paris and his team in New York. “With double the amount of space we formerly had, we can really show the Dior Beauty products in the best light. We can project the latest evolution of a state-of-the-art Dior Beauty installation.” “Dior Beauty’s bay has gone from a generic to a personalized space,” he explained. “We can fan out products and show them in their best light. They are not all jammed on top of each other. With the ability to spread out displays, there is more room to make clear presentations of both makeup and skincare products. If a customer wants to browse and shop on her own, this is a much better set-up for her.” (Continued on page 52)

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CounterIntelligence


THEBEAUTYBIZ

SETS COURSE FOR In his new role as President of bliss®, Mike Indursky is building on a brand that has a unique place in the spa/retail environment. Recently, Beauty Fashion sat down with Mr. Indursky to learn about his plans for the company and where he sees the growth of the brand. Beauty Fashion: How would you define Bliss World Holdings and the relationship between bliss® and Laboratoire Remède? Mike Indursky: Bliss World Holdings has two truly unique and much differentiated spas with bliss® and Laboratoire Remède. Bliss® is all about well-being and happiness, with effective treatments and serious results. Laboratoire Remède is really about 5-star skincare and 5-star service. BF: In your new role at bliss®, what is your overall vision for the company? MI: The vision is to go from a spa company to one that really encompasses total well-being. When people think about bliss®, they consider it more than a brand. It’s a lifestyle. People don’t necessarily want a lifestyle of certain beauty brands, but they do want a lifestyle of bliss®. That is what we want to be able to deliver. BF: What do you believe are the strengths of bliss®? MI: Bliss® is actually a very unique brand that has an overall fun positioning, Mike Indursky but there is also a very high-level of seriousness behind the fun. The brand is all about incredible spa serivces—not the pampering, luxurious spa services but truly efficacious spa services. The products used on clients in the spas are informed by, used by and tested by our spa technicians. They are also available to consumers. That spa-to-product link is very important and special to us. We are the only brand that can make this connection. Along with a fun personality, we also have a unique go-to-market approach. We have spas, products, a catalog and a Web site where we sell not only our brands but others as well. Because of our many different points of merchandising and distribution, bliss® has a truly a unique, multi-level marketing model. Unlike companies that develop a product and launch it, we have over 400 spa employees who get to use our products to give us feedback and input on the development and performance of the product. For example, we have the ‘pore’-fector gadget, a sonic-powered, deep-cleaning device that is great for removing sebum. But, our spa technicians discovered that when it is used correctly, it is also excellent for exfoliation. This is an important benefit, which we need to communicate to the customers. We’re getting better at doing this before rather than after the fact. BF: What have you determined needs tweaking at bliss®? MI: At bliss®, we are all about continuous improvement. Before we pursue our vision for the company moving forward, it is really important that we strengthen the core of the brand. First, we must better communicate our spa-to-product message. When you go to some retailers where our products are sold, they are differentiated and look great on shelves, but you don’t always get that spa-to-product relationship story. To change that, we’ve developed an entirely new merchandising system and a new way to communicate our (Continued on page 54) NOVEMBER 2010 /

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INDURSKY


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ducation and awareness of skin cancer set the theme of the annual Skin Sense Award Gala on October 12 at New York City’s Pierre Hotel. Almost 350 people attended the event to honor Gabriel Tanbourgi, President of BASF Care Chemicals and Al Robertson, General Manager and Chief Marketing Officer of Energizer Personal Care for their leadership roles in promoting skin health. Notable guests from the worlds of fashion, music, food, beauty and reality TV showed their support for this important cause. Sam Champion, Weather Anchor of ABC’s Good Morning America, hosted the night’s program. Mr. Champion has battled skin cancer and has done much to raise awareness about the disease. After guests tucked into a dinner of grilled asparagus Parmesan and filet mignon or Dover sole, they were treated

The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Dr. Perry Robins and Grey Group’s Annette Sally with Al Robertson of Energizer Personal Care and BASF’s Gabriel Tanbourgi

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Diane Ackley and Janet Pardo

Sephora USA’s Allison Slater and Star’s Tara Kraft with Linda Moran Evans of Family Circle and RPR Marketing’s Cora Rood Good Morning America’s Sam Champion and Erin Mulvey Stoeber of The Skin Cancer Foundation

The Estée Lauder Companies’ CeCe Coffin and Agnes Landau (r.) with Jean Godfrey June of Lucky

to a performance by Rockjazz Pianist ELEW. ELEW also entertained at the after party, which was a first for the Gala. “The Skin Sense Award Gala is always a very special night for the Skin Cancer Foundation, and we Avon’s Rob Kalafsky, Elizabeth Bergman and Anthony Gonzalez (r.) deeply appreciate everyone’s support with Katie Becker of Prevention in making the evening a success,” declared Perry Robins, MD, President of The Skin Cancer Foundation. “We know that people are well aware of the dangers of the sun. However, our research tells us that most people still resist making sun protection a part of their lifestyle. Clearly, there is much work to be done, which is why the Gala is so important.” BF NO OVV E M B E R 201 2010 /

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Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley and The Estée Lauder Companies’ Thia Breen greet their friends.

Thia Breen, The Estée Lauder Companies’ President, North America, and Laurie Dowley, Elizabeth Arden’s Senior Vice President, hosted a party for beauty industry executives at their home to support the Jane Scott Scholarship Fund at the Fashion Institute of Technology. They were continuing an annual tradition which began as a girl’s night out ten years ago, for friends who worked in the beauty industry and wanted to meet for a non-business occasion. Jane Scott, Vice President/DMM at Bloomingdale’s was killed in a bicycle accident ten years ago. Four years later, her friends at Girl’s Night Out decided to build their annual gathering into a benefit for the Jane Scott Scholarship Fund. According to Ms. Dowley, one of the founders of Girl’s Night Out, the first benefit raised about $2,500. “This year’s event will match what we’ve raised in the last four years, with a total of almost $12,000,” declared Estée Lauder’s Senior Vice President Nancy McKay, another founder of Girl’s Night Out. “The fact that we can all come together once a year [and support this cause] is wonderful,” added The Estée Lauder Companies’ Senior Vice President Karyn Khoury, the third member of the founding trio.

Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters, Sean John Fragrances’ Diana Espino and Macy’s Linda Levy

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Karyn Khoury and Nancy McKay and Ms. Dowley are the founders of Girl’s Night Out.

Elizabeth Arden’s Elizabeth Park and GSG’s Lidia Latrowski

Clinique’s Gail Komst, Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore, Ms. Dowley and Ms. McKay

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Girl’s Night Out


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anelists took an optimistic stance while discussing the cosmetic industry’s current and projected economic condition at CEW’s Retail Roundtable held on October 14 at The Harmonie Club. This forum featured Bluemercury Inc.’s Founder and CEO Marla Malcolm Beck, Sephora USA’s Senior Vice President of Marketing Sharon Rothstein, The NPD Group’s Vice President and Global Beauty Industry Analyst Karen Grant and Macy’s Group Vice President/DMM Cosmetics-trend and Prestige Nancy Schmidt conversing on their company’s experiences with the ever-shifting fiscal circumstances of recent times. The speakers were all in agreement that the market has been showing signs of recovery and moving into a healthier state than the previous year had left it. Recent sales figures show that across all categories, numbers are improving, with the skincare category leading the way, followed by makeup and then fragrance. The shift in consumer purchasing habits, due to the changing economy combined with the increasing role of the Internet and social media, was prominent in the Bluemercury Inc.’s Marla Malcolm Beck, Sharon Rothstein of Sephora evening’s discussion. Consumers are especially looking for USA, NPD Group’s Karen Grant and Nancy Schmidt of Macy’s

Firmenich’s Hervé Pierini and Westly Morris with Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer and Carlos Timiraos and Elizabeth Corrigan of Global Beauty Group

Avon/mark.’s Claudia Poccia and Jill Scalamandre of Chrysallis

Ms. Schmidt with Laurie Dowley of Elizabeth Arden and Michelle Williams Group’s Michelle Williams

Macy’s Linda Levy and Nancy McKay of Estée Lauder

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CEW Retail Roundtable


THELATESTLAUNCHES

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O E ONE

In the fourth quarter, the beautymakers present formulations l to soothe and smooth in time to brace for winter’s wind and cold weather.

CHANEL’s Ultra Correction Line Repair collection is expanded with Anti-Wrinkle Comfort Day Cream SPF 15.

Turn-Around Program CHANEL has added another SKU to its Ultra Correction Line Repair system. Ultra Correction Line Repair Anti-Wrinkle Comfort Day Cream SPF 15, like the other products in the collection, is driven by Bay Cedar PFA (Polyfractioned Active, an ultra-pure, ultra-powerful ingredient created through an exclusive purification technique developed by CHANEL). This natural ingredient, purified to its most potent essence, aids in the wrinkle correction process by enabling collagen fibers to regain their original flexibility and tone. The cream also contains shea butter, which brings comfort to dehydrated skin while naturally contributing to the prevention and correction of the appearance of lines and wrinkles at the source. Ultra Correction Line Repair Anti-Wrinkle Comfort Day Cream SPF 15 comes in a 1.7 oz. jar for $125.00. It is available now at department and specialty stores and at CHANEL.com.

Restoration Program Elysée Scientific Cosmetics has developed Telomere Technology to fight aging at the cellular level. Telomeres, part of the DNA structure, grow shorter as cells replicate, and as they shorten, cells begin to enter the state of being old. Telomere Technology drives Elysée Scientific Cosmetics’ new YouthSpan™ Telo-Genesis™ Day Cream, a complex formula, which enables the skin to better withstand everyday stresses and strains and helps to prolong youthful skin by visibly reducing the signs of aging. The key ingredients of YouthSpan™ Telo-Genesis™ Day Cream are Venuceane™, a strong anti-oxidant; Juvinity™, to maintain telomere length; Biolumen™ Firm, to reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve tone and texture; Inyline™, to reduce the appearance of expression lines; and Snap-8™, an octapeptide to help reduce the depth of wrinkles. Elysée Scientific Cosmetics YouthSpan™ Telo-Genesis™ Day Cream comes in a 1 oz. jar for $84.50. It is available on the Home Shopping Network, at hsn.com, through salons and doctors’ offices nationwide, at Elysée Rejuvenation Centers, by calling 608-845-3664 and at elyseecosmetics.com.

(Continued on page 58)

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Elysée Scientific Cosmetics’ YouthSpan™ Telo-Genesis™ Day Cream helps reduce the appearance of expression lines and optimizes the skin’s elasticity.


REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

SAN FRANCISCO BEAT

Bloomingdale’s San Francisco held the second annual beauty-award event, The Glammies, for its customers. Hosted by San Francisco Film Critic, Jan Wahl, various vendors were called to the stage to receive their “Glammies” for their outstanding products. As an Emmy-winning Producer, entertainment Reporter and Film Critic, Ms. Wahl is the most sought-after speaker in her field. San Francisco movie fans turn to Ms. Wahl for the scoop on Hollywood, celebrities, film lore and history. Customers were able to learn about the hottest Hollywood trends from their favorite labels and were invited to visit each beauty counter to try the products and enter a raffle for a chance to win a fabulous cosmetics gift basket.

Lauder - Re-Nutriv skincare; Guerlain - Orchidée series; La Prairie - Illuminating products; Laura Mercier - Tinted moisturizer; Juicy Couture - Couture Couture fragrance; M·A·C - Most Philanthropic Line (100% of their proceeds from Viva Glam go to the M·A·C AIDS Fund, with over $160 million raised so far); NARS - Orgasm Collection; Shiseido - Innovative color; SK-II - The Essence and Viktor & Rolf - Flowerbomb. Marsha Sanders, Sales Manager of Cosmetics at Bloomingdale’s and Assistant Sales Manager Bailey Locke made sure that everything ran smoothly and that all attendees at The Glammies received an oversized goody bag filled to the brim with popular cosmetic and fragrance samples.

Beauty Advisors Kristen Huffman and Maria Moran greeted The Glammies’ audience

The Glammies award statues at Bloomingdale’s

This year, sixteen beauty products were singled out for their stellar achievement in skincare and cosmetic performance. Ms. Wahl presented each Beauty Representative with a gold “Glammie,” and in faux Oscar style, they gave a speech about the San Francisco Film Critic Jan Wahl product and what made it special. Awards were presented to (in alphabetical order): BeneFit - Beauty in a Box (8 Color Collections); Bobbi Brown - Gel eyeliner; CHANEL - Sublimage; Clinique - Allergy-tested and fragrance free; Creme De La Mer - the famous cream; Dior - DiorShow mascara; Estée NOVEMBER 2010 /

While The Glammies were taking place, hundreds of customers also took advantage of the Beauty Event Weekend, as most of the vendors were offering special gifts-with-purchase.

Mike Russell and his new purchase of fragrance with Tom Ford Beauty Specialist Kori Ayliffe at Saks Fifth Avenue San Francisco

Saks Fifth Avenue in San Francisco also celebrated the month with cosmetics top seller, Tom Ford Private Blend Lip Color Collection. Tom Ford Beauty Specialist Kori Ayliffe revealed that the Tom Ford Lip Color Collection is

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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

by Raphaella Barkley


H liday Gift Sets

Part III (continued from page 23)

Luggage Tag with Original Ed Hardy Tattoo Design for the price of $75.00.

8 oz. Styling Lotion and a comb—packaged for gifting and priced at $52.00.

BOBBI BROWN Eye Palette

The Live Fully Travel Bag

For the price of $45.00, choose from one of the three new eye shadow palettes from Bobbi Brown: Smoky, Sultry or Smoldering. Each palette contains four colors that are perfect for adding a bit of sparkle to the holiday season!

Three favorites for fullness are perfectly packaged in this go-anywhere travel bag. Receive a 2 oz. Thickening Shampoo, 2 oz. Thickening Conditioner and 2 oz. Thickening Hairspray for $24.00.

Glitter Liquid Eye Liner CLINIQUE Click and Be Happy Glitter Liquid Eye Liner contains a blend of sparkling pearls to create a brilliant shine, great for transforming your daytime into a party-perfect look! Bobbi Brown’s superfine applicator tip makes it easy to line your eyes like a pro, available in Gold or Silver and priced at $20.00. BUMBLE AND bumble The Live Richly Box

This multi-purpose, customizable rollerball fragrance and gloss set comes with three .14 oz. variations on Clinique’s Happy fragrance which can be paired with corresponding shades of Long Last Glosswear SPF 15. The dual-ended applicator is perfectly purse-portable, making it a must-have holiday accessory for $28.00. Connect the Gloss

for the price of $25.00. Strawberry Fudge Holiday Compact

This beautifully decadent compact features a stunning combination of chocolate browns and strawberry pinks for the eyes and cheeks for $36.00.

Be inspired to mix, match and blend with this beautiful collection. Choose two 100 ml colognes from the complete Jo Malone portfolio and then mix with the six 9 ml colognes included in the set: Grapefruit, Lime Basil & Mandarin, Orange Blossom, Pomegranate Noir, Red Roses and Vanilla & Anise. Priced at $325.00.

Just connect and go! The customizable dual-ended applicator can be tailored to hold any two of the six Long Last Glosswear SPF 15 shades included in this set NOVEMBER 2010 /

Tea Box Deluxe Candle Collection

JO MALONE Customized Fragrance Combining Collection™

Coloured Travel Candle Collection with Farrow & Ball

Give richly (with moisture and movement!) for the holidays with this set including: 8 oz. Gentle Shampoo, 8 oz. Super Rich Conditioner,

Jo Malone continues its partnership with Farrow & Ball, supplier of elegant paints. This limited-edition collection combines three scented and colored travel candles: Pomegranate Noir in Eating Room Red (No. 43), Wild Fig & Cassis in Pelt (No. 254) and Pine & Eucalyptus in Green Smoke (No. 47) for $95.00.

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A suite of three deluxe candles (Eau De Cologne, Parma Violets and Sweet Almond & Macaroon) are nestled in a beautifully textured cream-colored box accompanied with a silver plated wick trimmer and candle snuffer for $425.00. mark. Multi-Wear Scent Boosters

These .4 oz. Multi-Wear Scent Boosters, in Great Energy and Feeling Calm, can be worn on the body’s pulse points or a few droplets can be added to the fragrance-free Fair Trade Body Collection. Used to jump-start the senses or to soothe and calm, they are priced at $8.00.


H liday Gift Sets Comfy Cozy Home Fragrance Diffuser Oil

Part III

with the festive scent of mulling spices accented with fresh evergreens, cranberry and orange— the unmistakable scent of Christmas. Priced at $28.00.

4 oz. Ginger Souffle™ Whipped body cream. Available only in retail stores for the price of $52.50. Origins Greats

contains everything needed to achieve gorgeous eyes and lips including: .5 oz. GinZing™ Refreshing eye cream, Full Story™ Lush-lash mascara and a dual-ended lip gloss that contains Liquid Lip Color in Beaming Berry and Liquid Lip Color in You’re Golden. Priced at $29.50.

Help your loved ones look and feel great this holiday season with this collection including: .5 oz. GinZing™ Refreshing eye cream, 1.7 oz. Starting Over™ Age-erasing moisturizer with mimosa, 1.7 oz. Modern Friction™ Nature’s gentle dermabrasion, 5 oz. Checks and Balances™ Frothy face wash, 5 oz. Ginger Burst™ Savory body wash and 5 oz. Ginger Souffle™ Whipped body cream. Priced at $52.50.

MICHAEL KORS Very Hollywood Limited-Edition Deluxe Holiday Gift Set

ORIGINS Just Ginger Perfect for the holidays and beyond, this home fragrance diffuser will make any room feel warm and cozy with the aromas of brown sugar, roasted chestnuts, vanilla and winter woods. Included are two fragrance bottles and two flower wicks for the price of $15.00. CRABTREE & EVELYN Windsor Forest® Three Fragranced Candles

Inspired by the magnificent evergreens at Royal Windsor Great Park, bordering Windsor Castle, this distinctive fragrance captures the scent of crushed pine needles accented with birch, hemlock fir and cedar wood. Presented in artfully illustrated packaging, perfect for gift giving, receive three candles for the price of $32.00. Noël® Large Poured Candle in Glass

Dramatically packaged, this candle infuses the air

Just what everyone needs for a clean, fresh and fragrant body! This set includes 3.4 oz. Incredible Spreadable Scrub™ Ginger body smoother to help slough off dead cells, 7 oz. Ginger Souffle™ Whipped body cream and 15 ml Ginger Essence™ Sensuous Skin Scent, to provide the perfect finishing scent. This set also includes a bath puff and gift card for a complimentary Origins Mini Facial for the price of $42.50. Famous Favorites

Full of Origins most popular products, this set will elicit smiles from even the most impossible-to-shop-for individuals on your holiday list! Receive a 1.7 oz. Modern Friction™ Nature’s gentle dermabrasion, 1 oz. A Perfect World™ White tea skin guardian, 1 oz. A Perfect World™ Antioxidant moisturizer with White Tea, 3.4 oz. Ginger Burst™ Savory body wash and NOVEMBER 2010 /

Drink Up Duo Help Origins green the planet, one tree at a time! For every purchase of Drink Up Duo, Origins will plant a tree through Global ReLeaf™, a nonprofit program that helps restore damaged forest ecosystems around the world. 1 oz. Drink Up™ Intensive Overnight Mask leaves skin instantly replenished and is packaged in a 12 oz. translucent, reusable Origins water bottle for the price of $15.00.

Give her the deluxe redcarpet treatment this holiday season with this set that includes a 3.4 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray, 3.4 oz. Hollywood Fabulotion and a 3.4 oz. Hollywood Premiere Shower Wash for the price of $85.00.

Good to Glow Perfect for the girl on the go, this stocking stuffer

An exclusive collaboration between Saks Fifth Avenue and Bond No. 9, Saks-en-Rose

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BOND NO. 9 Saks-en-Rose Pocket Spray


H liday Gift Sets begins with a top note of dry dates, lantana leaves and spicy mace segueing into its floral heart of pink roses, supported by hints of musk, sandalwood and amber. The refillable .25 oz. pocket spray is priced at $85.00 and includes a white leatherette pouch. THIERRY MUGLER PARFUMS ANGEL Sensual Sophistication Holiday Gift-Set

The stage is set for an award-winning performance with three amazing renditions of enchanting delight, including: a luxurious 1 oz. Perfuming Shower Gel, 3.5 oz. Perfuming Body Lotion and an 8 oz. ANGEL Eau de Parfum for the price of $85.00.

Part III

diva will want to indulge in these wonderful textures for the body and the senses for the price of $130.00.

Premiere Future Solution LX Collection

ALIEN Extraordinary Goddess Holiday Gift-Set

Release the inner goddess in you: reveal all that is distinctive in three exceptional interpretations of the ALIEN scent. Renew your sensual energy with the 1 oz. Radiant Shower Gel, luxuriate in softness with 3.4 oz. Radiant Body Lotion and step into an aura of mystery with a touch of 1 oz. Eau de Parfum spray. Completely captivating for the price of $85.00.

Give the gift of energized skin with this collection of restorative products that includes a 2.5 oz. BioPerformance Advanced Super Revitalizer Cream, 1 oz. Benefiance Creamy Cleansing Foam Deluxe Sample, 1 oz. Benefiance Enriched Balancing Softener Travel Size, .32 oz. BioPerformance Super Refining Essence Deluxe Sample, 8 sheets of Facial Cotton and a Facial Service Gift Certificate for the price of $94.00. Intensive Bio-Eye Contour Set

The Aramis man is a true gentleman who celebrates style and sophistication. This holiday season embrace his refined taste with the ultimate collection including: a 3.7 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray, 4.1 oz. After Shave, 3.4 oz. Advanced Moisturizing After Shave Balm, 3.4 oz. Invigorating Body Shampoo and a 5.7 oz. Body Shampoo on a Rope for the price of $68.00. NOVEMBER 2010 /

Discover a difference with this Future Solution LX set that includes: a 1.7 oz. Future Solution LX Total Regenerating Cream, .57 oz. Future Solution LX Extra Rich Cleansing Foam Deluxe Sample, .84 oz. Future Solution LX Concentrated Balancing Softener Deluxe Sample, .21 oz. Future Solution LX Protective Day Cream SPF 15 Deluxe Sample, .1 oz. Future Solution LX Eye and Lip Contour Regenerating Cream Deluxe Sample and Facial Service Gift Certificate for the price of $260.00. Shiseido Men Deep Cleanse Set

ARAMIS Classic Holiday Blockbuster Set

Celestial Diva Holiday Gift-Set

This incomparable combination releases its celestial spirit with the rich 1 oz. Perfuming Hand Cream, 3.5 oz. Perfuming Body Lotion, 3.5 oz. Perfuming Shower Gel and a 1.7 oz. shooting star Eau De Parfum Refillable Spray. Any

SHISEIDO Intense Bio-Revitalizing Set

Recharge and restore your eye-area this holiday season with this all-inclusive collection! For the price of $55.00, receive a .53 oz. Bio-Performance Super Eye Contour Cream, 1 oz. Benefiance Creamy Cleansing Foam Travel Size, 1 oz. Benefiance Enriched Balancing Softener Travel Size, .24 oz. Bio-Performance Advanced Super Revitalizer Deluxe Sample, Benefiance Pure Retinol Eye Mask (1 Application) and a Facial Service Gift Certificate.

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Treat the man on your list to the ultimate collection! Receive a 4.6 oz. Cleansing Foam, 3.3 oz. Moisturizing Emulsion, 1.7 oz. Deep Cleansing Scrub Deluxe Sample, 1.8 oz. Shaving Cream Deluxe Sample, .18 oz. Total Revitalizer Sample, .16 oz. Zen Homme Fragrance Replica Sample and Facial Service Gift Certificate in a Travel Bag for the price of $62.00. BF


NOTES FROM PARIS (continued from page 24)

certain size, because if you do not, and still want to go after a large number of clients, you must continuously arbitrate your resources as you share them among clients. ‘Small in the middle of big,’ which essentially amounts to a bespoke service, is something we have established as a successful business model for our clients. Our clients have an exclusive and dedicated flavor team, driving creation within a focused understanding of their brands, identities and targeted consumer groups. From a historical perspective, this was the spirit and signature of Roure and Quest, and it continues to live on and thrive in the larger Givaudan structure. DEDICATING AND INVESTING SIZEABLE RESOURCES IN GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES Another way that size works to our advantage is that it allows us to dedicate and invest sizeable resources in important growth opportunities. Although we are large, we must still continue to grow, and in the next five years, investing in growth opportunities will be an important priority for us. We will be dedicating enormous resources as we invest in growth opportunities in the form of new clients and new segments, such as the health and wellness sector and the developing market sector, where we are currently enjoying double digit growth rates, and which is going to be the engine for our growth going forward. INVESTING SIZEABLE RESOURCES IN R&D Because of our size, we are able to invest vast resources into Research & Development (R&D), and that’s what our clients expect. Today, R&D is more important than ever before, as many of our clients are innovation driven with specific innovation strategies in relation to developing markets. In the area of health and wellness, for example, most governments currently force food and beverage companies to remove or reduce salt from products and applications, sometimes as much as 40%, with similar requirements for sugar and fat. As we all know, sugar and salt are absolutely wonderful products from a taste standpoint: sugar, because you have the sweetness and mouthful sensory attributes, and salt because it enhances the tastes of everything else. These flavors are also extremely difficult to replace, and the minute you take them out of food applications it can become very frustrating. Essentially, health and wellness issues today are about sweet, salt and fat, and the difficult task of finding substitutes for them has become something of the search for ‘The Holy Grail.’ At Givaudan, we are creating some unique taste ingredients which help replace all of these products. Regarding sugar, for example, the challenge is dealing with the frustrating bitter after-note that artificial sweeteners give. We are coming in with ‘bitter-blockers’ and NOVEMBER 2010 /

‘sweet enhancers.’ The beauty of the ingredients we are developing is that they are all derived or extracted from naturals. ‘CONSUMER-CENTERED’ INNOVATION AND GIVAUDAN’S FIFI AWARD-WINNING MIRIAD 2.0 In innovation, everything leads to the consumer. It takes bold and brave moves to launch fragrances that will withstand the test of time, and as we all know, too much market testing can kill creativity. If you look at fine fragrances, it’s true that this industry suffers from lack of creativity resulting in too much more of “the same old thing.” The challenge is finding the right balance between sheer creativity and responding to consumer expectations through market tests. To help navigate this balance, Givaudan is continuously developing and refining consumer understanding tools. One of the recent outcomes of this is Givaudan’s Miriad 2.0, for which we received the FiFi Award for Best Technology in 2010. Miriad 2.0 brings consumer perception right into the heart of the creative process. As Michael Carlos, head of fragrances at Givaudan has so rightly observed, “Consumer understanding is fundamental to successful fragrance design, as it nourishes and enriches the creative process and ultimately, the potential of our clients’ brands.” Another driving force in successful fragrance development is connecting to mood and emotion. Givaudan is constantly developing tools which help to correlate fragrances with the moods and emotions that they can trigger at consumer end point. Finding and crossing these bridges is another ‘Holy Grail’ that Givaudan is pursuing, and yet another part of the whole magic and mystery of fragrances. There are also numerous connections between flavors and fragrances, and interestingly, much of the strength we inherited with Quest was success in this area of research. Consumers are very sensitive about what they immediately like, and they love fragrance ingredients that remind them of edible flavors. That’s, of course, what the success of Thierry Mugler’s ANGEL was all about and has much to do with our survival instinct. Olfaction (smell) is ultimately about memory, and a consumer may or may not like a fine or household fragrance because of a good or bad experience it may trigger in the memory, which perhaps can be associated with a food. Breaking down barriers and crossing bridges between formerly discreet and separately defined entities, as well as transforming vertical hierarchies into a horizontal structure of mutual respect and inspiration is something Givaudan is keen upon doing. There are so many connections to make all across the ingredients palette, and we are constantly looking to find them. There is only ONE consumer, and he or she interacts with a lot of 41

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NOTES FROM PARIS smells and tastes without necessarily being entrenched into thought patterns, which dictates that ‘soap should smell like a rose,’ or ‘detergent should smell like lemons.’ Today, many of the walls which have been built over time have crumbled, opening the way for fundamental changes. Remember, for example, how a number of years ago, dishwashing detergents were primarily lemon flavored, whereas now we can enjoy more contemporary fragrances like basil, lavender, and others. Similarly, many of the smells traditionally associated with fine fragrances are finding their way into other applications, such as air-care or deodorants. As another example of our work in this area, Givaudan has set up a room in our New York headquarters, filled with a vast range of different products, such as hair care and shampoo, edible products, household products, detergent, etc., where a client consumer group can go around and build their own bridges, as they navigate between tastes and the world of smell. INVESTING SIZEABLE RESOURCES IN NEW MOLECULES Fragrance creation requires talent and raw materials. These two elements are key in this business. Finding new molecules is essential for new creations, and going forward, Givaudan will continue to invest sizeable resources in the development of new molecules. Every year, we develop between three and five new molecules, more than all of the other industry players combined. Deciding which molecules to develop is a complicated question because if you only go by the figures, you might kill some potentially great molecules. For this reason we are constantly sponsoring a number of very creative molecules, which might not stand out at first but have great potential in the long run. This is how some of the most important molecules we use today have evolved. Examples of these are Isou E super, Hedione, Peonile, and Undecavertol which were developed a number of years ago by the industry players. Perfumers are constantly observing each other within our industry, and the minute a molecule is seen to be enjoying a certain success, perfumers will want to use it themselves, and that’s when a new molecule starts to become popular. This is especially the case in fine fragrance, but it applies to commercial perfumery as well. Any molecule that Givaudan has developed on its own is a ‘captive’ molecule, meaning that it is under patent with the company for an initial period of several years and can only be used by our Perfumers. This gives Givaudan a competitive advantage in terms of cost, enhanced creativity and performance, especially when one of our ‘captives’ becomes extremely popular.

NOVEMBER 2010 /

DEVELOPING MARKETS Today our sales in developing markets represent more than 41% of total sales. In five years time, we want this figure to be close to 50%. It’s important to understand that the developing market is not just about China and India. Latin America, Indonesia and particularly Brazil, are also experiencing a huge growth explosion. The beauty of the Brazilian market is that Brazilians are exceptional ‘scent lovers.’ The percent of capital expenditure on anything related to fragrances is close to that of the US or other western countries in absolute value. And considering the fact that per capita income is much lower, the percentage of what Brazilians spend is much bigger than in many other countries. It may surprise you, but today, the fine fragrance market in Brazil is bigger than that of the US. And this has been the case for the past two years. This presents an enormous opportunity for international fine fragrance groups, because today the market is dominated by regional champions such as Natura and O Boticario. In addition to this, you also have the whole of CentralEastern Europe, The Middle East, and now, Africa which are starting to grow. We calculate that out of two billion people, roughly 300 million have access to high-end westernized type standards of products while the remaining 800 million only have basic, basic things and no access to flavored products. This means that the growth opportunity for us, and for all of our clients, is found in a combination of demographics and ‘trading up.’ Demographically, there are going to be increasing numbers of people using soaps and manufactured products. For personal hygiene, populations start trading up from scented soaps to shower gels. For laundry needs, they move up from unscented to scented bar soap to wash their clothes, and then to powder detergents, liquid detergents and ultimately to softeners. These populations are by no means monolithic in terms of disposable income, and there is much greater polarity than in the US or Western Europe. You have the super-rich and the super-poor. The super-rich can afford Dior and Prada, and we access them through fine fragrance channels such as duty-free and high-end stores, where all the major brands sell their products. The super poor don’t use any of our products, while the poor start with soap. The primary target for developing countries is the growing middle class, and we are going after them with the same products you and I are using every day, but at much lower price points. The flavors, the detergents, shower gels, the hair care, all of these things are at lower price points than what you would find at Monoprix [supermarket] here in France or other western European countries or the US, because that’s what the consumer can afford.

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NOTES FROM PARIS Developing markets are entering the fragrance world from a starting point of basic needs and mal-odor coverage. Interestingly, one of the issues in developing markets is fabric care, because air can be extremely hot and smelly with odors coming from outdoor cooking and automobile pollution. An upwardly-mobile person does not want to go to his or her office in clothing that smells like boiled rice and gasoline. GAINING MARKET SHARE IN MATURE MARKETS An important goal for Givaudan is to outgrow the market by twice as much, amounting to a 5% growth, every year. In addition to leveraging our strength in the areas mentioned previously, this also means that we need to go after markets and clients in mature market sectors where we are slightly under-represented. We see great opportunities with clients in food and beverage sectors, and we are going after pockets of growth in these sectors. Examples of this in the US are in food services and small regional clients. GETTING ELECTED TO MORE CORE LISTS In order to compete in these mature markets, we need to get elected to more core lists. We plan to do this by increased marketing of Givaudan’s strength in products and services compared to our competitors and showing what we can bring to the table that competitors can’t. Once this is accomplished, it’s then a question of mobilizing our vast resources to deliver what we have promised. Air-care, as in air wicks and aerosols, is one example of an area where we are currently slightly under represented. There are also some segments in food and beverage categories in which we are under represented—usually for historic reasons. INCREASING GIVAUDAN’S SHARE OF WOMEN’S FINE FRAGRANCES Givaudan has historically been known for its large number of men’s fine fragrances. Going forward, Givaudan intends to increase its share of women’s fine fragrances. Quest brought a number of women’s fragrances to the group, and we have already made a lot of progress towards increasing our numbers over the last two or three years since the merger. In fact, fine fragrances is one of the two or three areas where the combination of Quest and Givaudan has been most spectacular in terms of what Quest brought to Givaudan and to our clients. We currently have four women’s, and five men’s prestige fine fragrances in the US and European top 20. In fine fragrances, diversity is extremely important for creativity. Before the Quest acquisition, we had 20 fine fragrance Perfumers. Now we have 35 dedicated fine fragrance Perfumers around the world, each with diverse

and individual styles, and each with established clientbased relationships. This is unmatched in the industry. What this means from a client’s point of view is that in choosing to work with Givaudan, he or she is not limited to working with a small handful of star Perfumers who continue to be recycled among clients. It’s important to remember that a Perfumer can only create so many fragrances in a 40-year career, and an even smaller number of classics. With 35 Perfumers, we have as many styles as we have Perfumers, and Givaudan offers clients an enormous amount of diversity and freshness. And as I mentioned earlier, because of our size, we can offer clients the ‘small group within the large,’ which essentially means that when working with a Givaudan perfume team, a client has the equivalent of bespoke service and dedicated resources (including use of our captive molecules). Because of this, Givaudan is unrivalled in servicing clients with the best and most diverse palette. We are continuously fueling and feeding our Perfumers’ talents through our unique perfumery school. Again, because of our size we can afford to enroll three to four new Perfumers every year. During the first and second years at our school, perfumery students follow a general program, and then specialize in the third year. By the time they graduate, they know exactly where they are going within the worldwide team of Givaudan Perfumers. DEVELOPING SUSTAINABLE NATURALS Just as it is important to develop new molecules, it’s also important to develop new naturals which can expand the diversity of the Perfumer’s palette. In using the term ‘naturals,’ I refer to ‘taken from nature.’ This is an activity which can take many forms. It can, for example, mean finding a new and sustainable source for a raw material whose current source has become, or is becoming, unsustainable. Givaudan is committed to developing equitable sources of raw materials, which are non-exploitive of land or populations. This often means becoming involved in the creative and positive development of local economies, through the building of schools or other infrastructures. In our ongoing ethical sourcing program, Givaudan helped build schools in Laos, where local populations are involved in our benzoin harvests. It can also mean finding new sustainable sources to replace non-sustainable sources of raw materials. For instance, Givaudan has been active in the development of sandalwood plantations in Australia to replace non-sustainable sources in India. In all these areas, whether it is tonka bean in Venezuela, sandalwood in Australia, vanilla beans in Madagascar or benzoin in Laos, Givaudan has worked hand-in-hand with local populations and governments to maintain sustainable and equitable sources of raw materials, and this work has been extremely (Continued on page 61)

NOVEMBER 2010 /

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THIA BREEN IS A ‘CHAMPION’ (continued from page 25)

Ann Gottlieb Associates’ Ann Gottlieb with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Daniel Annese and Carol Russo and Jayne Jamison of Seventeen

Macy’s Muriel Gonzalez with Maureen Case of The Estée Lauder Companies and Howard Kreitzman of Bloomingdale’s

Firmenich’s Frank Voelkl with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Trudi Loren, Veronique Gabai-Pinsky and Karyn Khoury and Bertrand Lemont of IFF

Givaudan’s Cos Policastro with Jill Belasco of Maesa Group and Daniel Rachmanis of The Estée Lauder Companies

Elizabeth Arden’s Bonnie Beer, Elizabeth Park, Kathy Widmer and Joel Ronkin

Coty’s Lindsey Kopald, Denise McEvoy and Ruth Sutcliffe

Firmenich’s Debra Butler and Jerry Vittoria with Elana Drell Szyfer

MANE’s Michel Mane and George Ledes of Beauty Fashion

NOVEMBER 2010 /

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BF


EAUX OF SUCCESS

(continued from page 27)

GREEN SPACE Washington Square is a green oasis at the base of Fifth Avenue in Greenwich Village, surrounded by Greek Revival townhouses and New York University mega-buildings. For the centennial of President George Washington’s inauguration, an arch designed by Architect Stanford White was erected at the north end of the square. This public space frequented by students, professors, drifters, chess and bocce players as well as moms with kids in strollers, is the inspiration for Bond No. 9’s new fragrance, Washington Square. The juice for Washington Square opens on a top note of Italian bergamot, geranium and tarragon. Its middle note of purple rose and honey is based on a drydown of amber, leather accord, vetiver and musk. It is presented in a bottle that marks a first for Bond No. 9. The flacon displays a contemporary vision of Washington Square viewed through its arch past casually dressed park-goers in the foreground. This photonegative image even reveals the coffered square panels of the arch’s interior. Bond No. 9 Washington Square comes in a 1.7 oz. size for $150.00 and 3.4 oz., Bond No. 9 Washington Square is $230.00. There is also a gold pocket spray for $95.00. The fragrance is now named for the small park at the end available at Bond No. 9’s four New York City stores, at Saks Fifth Avenue, Harrods in of Fifth Avenue where the iconic Washington Square arch was erected. London and online at bondno9.com.

SCENT FOR THE CURE TPR Holdings, led by its President Brian Robinson, has joined with Susan G. Komen for the Cure® to launch Promise Me, the first and only proprietary fragrance developed for the breast cancer organization. “With fifteen years in the beauty industry, I wanted to lend my expertise to a profound cause,” stated Mr. Robinson. “We worked closely with top Perfumers to infuse the essence of the Susan G. Komen message into a fragrance that really gives back and brings hope to those suffering from breast cancer.” The name of the fragrance was taken from the recent book Promise Me written by Nancy Brinker, Founder and CEO of TPR Holdings has partnered with Susan G. Komen Susan G. Komen for the Cure®. “We’re always grateful for the for the Cure® to offer Promise Me, a new fragrance support of so many who want to join the Komen family and to benefit the fight against breast cancer. help support this life-saving work,” declared Ms. Brinker. “We are especially pleased that TPR Holdings is helping to spread breast cancer education and awareness through this partnership—the need is still very great for women to be informed about this disease.” Promise Me is a sophisticated floriental developed by drom Perfumer Jean Claude Delville. It features citrus, green, musk and wood notes. The fragrance is presented in an elegant flacon with an interior floral motif designed by Chad Lavigne. The fragrance comes in a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette for $29.99 at mass retailers and 3.4 oz. Eau de Parfum for $59.00 to be sold at prestige channels of distribution. Smaller sizes will be available for alternative distribution channels. Each Promise Me fragrance will include a Susan G. Komen for the Cure® informational insert to raise breast cancer awareness, detailing the organization and the contribution each purchase makes to Komen, as well as a limitededition scented bracelet with a charm. The fragrance will launch in April 2011 and remain on the market for six months with new editions launching each year. Retailers already confirmed for distribution include Sephora in JCPenney, ULTA and Home Shopping Network.

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EAUX OF SUCCESS HARD CANDY Superstar Mariah Carey and Elizabeth Arden have partnered to bring a portfolio of fragrances to consumers. Their latest scent collection is Lollipop Bling, which is an innovative, candy-inspired trio of fragrances. “The inspiration for Lollipop Bling was Nick’s marriage proposal to me,” confided Ms. Carey. “He first surprised me with a Ring Pop®—romantic, fun and young-at-heart—like me! The three scents of Lollipop Bling make me smile, and I can’t wait to share them with my fans.” The Lollipop Bling fragrance collection is a breakthrough concept in the fragrance category. Elizabeth Arden has joined with Topps Candy Company to incorporate the Ring Pop ® inspiration into the fragrance launch with an integrated media campaign and point-of-sale plan featuring the iconic Ring Pop®. Mariah Carey Lollipop Bling captures the flavors that are loved and wraps them in sophisticated fragrance notes for a new sensorial experience. Lollipop Bling was developed by International Flavors & Fragrances’ Perfumers Laurent Le Guernec and Yves Cassar. They affirmed “Mariah’s fun-loving Mariah Carey fronts Lollipop Bling, personality and engagement were the inspiration for the fragrance developher newest fragrance ment. When we first sat down with her and heard about her enchanting engagement, we knew we had to create a feminine collection of candy-inspired fragrances that captured this moment for her.” The trio of fragrances is Mine Again, Ribbon and Honey. Mine Again is a combination of chocolate raspberry with a touch of magnolia. Ribbon was inspired by the blue raspberry Ring Pop®, which is combined with a floral bouquet. Honey is a blend of honey and pineapple in a bright and sunny scent. Each fragrance is presented in a jewel-toned bottle in shades of red, yellow and rainbow. Atop each bottle is Ms. Carey’s signature butterfly. The carton designs also feature Ms. Carey’s butterflies and candy elements that personify the brand. Mariah Carey’s Lollipop Bling fragrances each come in a 1 oz. size for $35.00. They are available at select department stores nationwide, including Mariah Carey Lollipop Bling is an innovative, Macy’s. To promote the fragrances, Elizabeth Arden has partnered with candy-inspired trio of fragrances. ClickFire Media to launch an interactive Web site presenting augmented reality. The heart of the Web site, which includes Away 3D Flash components, is a rotating 3D New York City skyline— Ms. Carey’s hometown—evocative of a set design for one of Ms. Carey’s iconic videos. There is a constantly updated video billboard, which acts as a clickable menu leading to more information on the three fragrances, a news ticker, a “what’s new” blog, interactive games and links to request updated information. Among the features is a CandyGram component, which includes personalized digital messages users can send to friends via Facebook or email, the 3D Augmented Reality Experience and the Bling It On interactive game. ClickFire also developed interactive digital engagements with social media integration to increase awareness, buzz, site traffic and site stickiness. The main site is lollipopbling.com.

TEEN TOPIC Garage is a casual teen clothing and accessory retailer based in Montreal. This 150-store operation has also shared its fashion message and store experience with teenagers in the US and has recently expanded in distribution to the United Arab Emirates. Their newest launch is a fragrance and cosmetic line, and the brand turned to Maesa to create the collection for the retailer. The playful Alexia fragrance begins on a top note of peach, bergamot, orange and apple. Its middle note of green leaves, rose and heliotrope is based on a drydown of musk, vanilla and amber. It is presented in a heavy, weighted glass bottle with a signature hangtag, which is enclosed in a recycled folding carton. (Continued on page 61) NOVEMBER 2010 /

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Maesa has created the Alexia fragrance and cosmetics collection for the Canadian retailer Garage.


HBA GLOBAL EXPO & CONFERENCE (continued from page 28)

Founder & CEO of Bluemercury, Inc. and Donna Tarantino-Loyle, Director of Health and Beauty of ShopNBC, discussed the unique ways in which they were able to find their niches and their abilities to create solid store-fronts (either actual and on television) by finding a unique connection with the consumer. Creating loyalty and building consumer relationships were of the most crucial importance between the panelists, also including Ada Polla, Founder and CEO of Alchimie Forever. During the “Creating A Successful Beauty Brand” seminar, Jamie Kern Lima, CEO of IT Cosmetics, gave first-hand recommendations of beginning a business, including the importance of creating products that were different from anything else offered to consumers and accepting the possibility of multiple failures before any eventual success. “What Women Want: The Consumer at Every Age” highlighted the magnitude of finding the specific and multi-faceted traits of targeted consumer groups. Maybelline’s Peggy Lee, AVP – Creative, discussed how age as well as location, influenced purchasing patterns and emphasized that “recognizing where she [the consumer] is physically, mentally and emotionally” was most important when addressing her needs. This year’s convention featured Trend Spot, a designated area that provided makeup application demonstrations, hosted over 150 new ABA Packaging’s Charles Marchese and exhibitors, international pavilions and held the annual HBA International Mike Warford Package Design Awards. L’Oréal Paris was recognized for its True Match Roller Perfection Roll On Makeup, as the overall winner. Other winners included Bath & Body Works for its Signature Collection for Men in the personal Care Mass division and Jane Iredale’s Eye Steppes as the winner for Cosmetics Prestige. UBM’s Jill Birkett, Brand Director, Beauty & Wellness, noted that, “As the event for trendspotting, this year’s HBA Global didn’t disappoint. From one hall of the Javits Center to the next, beauty and personal care innovations were being displayed, discussed and demonstrated to the leading manufacturers

Bloomingdale’s Howard Kreitzman speaks on “The Changing Face of Beauty Distribution” panel

C+N Packaging’s Kristen Tomich and Brooks Markert

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of cosmetics, personal care, skincare and fragrant products, including specific trends presentations and new hands-on sampling and makeup application techniques. These show floor activities made HBA not just a great business networking opportunity, but also a place to have some fun and learn something new.” Plans for HBA Global Expo and Conference 2011 are already underway. Scheduled for June 28-30 at the Javits Center, additional events will be hosted throughout the year, including a virtual trade show, “webinars” and other activities for the beauty and personal care industries. BF

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AKITOFBEAUTY(continued from page 29) “C’est Chic,” “Girl Next Door,” “Smoke Screen” and “Belle de Jour.” The Maesa Group designed and turnkey-manufactured the 4-SKU collection, which includes a range of makeup with vintage-inspired colors and three signature scents in custom-designed Eau de Toilette bottles, solid fragrance tins, purse sprays, scented body lotions and body butters. The color collection comes in a variety of eye palettes, bronzer sets, lip glosses and lip balms in signature tins. There are also branded makeup tutorial kits and gift sets for the holiday season. Flaunt Beauty ranges in price from $4.00 to $30.00. The collection is in all doors of ICINGs’ 424 locations across North America. The ICING brand has taken the introduction of the Flaunt line to the next level by creating an interactive micro-site dedicated to the Flaunt brand, branched off of the national ICING.com Web site. The micro-site will house information about the Flaunt line and include an interactive quiz that allows the user to discover which one of the Flaunt pin-up girl personalities she embodies. The quiz and other information about the line are at flaunt-beauty.com.

BEAUTY BOOSTS Avon has developed Healthy Makeup, a color collection committed to skin’s health. It is designed to address hydration, texture and radiance. “Healthy Makeup is an innovative way to look at color,” declared Avon’s Global Creative Color Director, Jillian Dempsey. “The whole collection is developed to go beyond helping the skin’s appearance on the surface to improving skin’s moisture, texture and luminosity. It lets your natural radiance shine through.” Every Healthy Makeup product is formulated with Avon’s Triple Vitamin & Anti-oxidant Complex, a blend of nutrients including vitamins A, C and E as well as botanical extracts such as pomegranate, olive leaf and apple root. The line includes 12 shades of Healthy Makeup Mousse Foundation and twelve shades of Healthy Makeup Liquid Foundation, ten shades of Healthy Makeup Lipstick, Healthy Makeup Lip Conditioner and eight shades of Healthy Makeup Eyeshadow. They range in price from Avon $8.00 to $12.00. Healthy Makeup The volume is turned up with Sonic Boost Vibrating Mascara from Avon. Mousse Foundation A special micro-vibrating brush is designed to simulate the “wiggling” action improves the skin’s hydration, texture Makeup Artists use to get ultimate coverage and definition. and radiance. The Sonic Boost Vibrating Mascara has a brush with 8,000 micropulse vibrations per minute. The mascara formulation is easy to remove, non-spiking, smudge-proof and flake-proof and is safe for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers. It comes in two shades for $16.00. Both Avon Healthy Makeup and Sonic Boost Vibrating Mascara are available from Avon Representatives, by calling 1-800-FOR-AVON or at avon.com. L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Million Lashes Mascara delivers thickened, separated and amplified lashes.

Avon’s Sonic Boost Vibrating Mascara achieves the delivery of a professional Makeup Artist.

MILLIONIZED LASHES

L’Oréal Paris has taken Voluminous Mascara to the next level with Voluminous Million Lashes. It is equipped with the Clean-Sweep Wiper System, a patented brush and wand design. The brush is engineered using stretch technology for a two-step passing system that allows the flexible mascara wand to slide through two web-like structures within the mascara tube as it is removed for application. Both the short and long pliable brush bristles are fully coated, and any excess formula is removed to prevent clumping during application. The formulation contains jojoba, palm oil, panthenol and glycerin to soften and condition lashes for optimal texture. L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Million Lashes Mascara comes in three shades and is priced at $8.95. It is available now at drug, mass and food retailers nationwide as well as at lorealparisusa.com. NOVEMBER 2010 /

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GLAM IT UP

Bobbi Brown presents the Choose Your Glam Smoky, Sultry, Smoldering Collection.

Limited Edition Mini Brush Set

Bobbi Brown maintains, “Women think they’re either eye girls or lip girls—but why limit yourself?” Ms. Brown has developed the Choose Your Glam Smoky, Sultry, Smoldering Collection which is “all about what mood you’re in,” she affirms. “Whether you want a pale eye with a strong, sexy lip or feel like a dramatic smoky eye with a nearly-naked lip, these shades let you switch it up.” The Choose Your Glam Smoky, Sultry, Smoldering Collection has new Long-Wear Eye Paints, highpigment, metallic eyeshadows that can be worn wet or dry. There are three new Limited Edition Eye Palettes featuring a base, an eyeliner color plus a metallic accompanying

Bullets of Lip Color showcase the new shades of Lip Color and Metallic Lip Color.

Long-lasting, waterproof Limited Edition Glitter Eyeliner contains a blend of sparkling pearls to create brilliant shine.

Limited Edition Smoldering Eye Palette features a base, an eyeliner color plus metallic and dramatic shades.

a dramatic shade. Limited Edition Glitter Liquid Eyeliner, Pretty Powerful Lips in four new shades, Lip Color in three new shades, Metallic Lip Color in Jewel Red, two new shades of Lip Gloss, Red Lip Liner and a Limited Edition Mini Brush Set complete the collection. They range in price from $20.00 to $55.00 and are available now at Bobbi Brown counters.

ROUND THE CLOCK

Hissyfit® offers Clockpots by Reggie Wells as a convenient, portable makeup “kit.”

Hissyfit® has come up with glamorous, portable, easy-to-use compacts in color combinations for every skin tone. The Hissyfit® Clockpots by Reggie Wells contain all the products needed to create a professional makeup look. Face Clockpot contains Hissyfit® Saving Face Foundation/Highlight plus four powders to highlight, contour and get the glow. The Eye Clockpot contains a primer and four eyeshadow trios. The Cheek Clockpot includes a soft sponge and four color duos for a subtle blush, rosy flush, bronzed hue or bold effect. There are six Face Clockpots priced at $75.00, four Eye Clockpots for $60.00 and Four Cheek Clockpots for $60.00. NOVEMBER 2010 /

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AKITOFBEAUTY

Mally Beauty’s Ultimate Performance Lip System is a liner and lacquer to create the perfect pout.

HOLIDAY PARTY LOOK

Mally Roncal has created new products to create glamorous holiday looks. Ms. Roncal builds on her preparation routine of moisturizing, massaging and priming with three new products. To get a naturally radiant complexion, Perfect Prep Poreless Primer in Glow prevents makeup from sliding into fine lines. An Eye Amplifying Shadow Trio in two palettes for blue/brown eyes and green/hazel eyes complements the eye color. Ultimate Performance Lip System in five shades offers a two-step process featuring a liner and lacquer. The new Mally Beauty makeup products range in price from $25.00 to $35.00 and are available now at mallybeauty.com, QVC, QVC.com, Henri Bendel and 1-800-H-Bendel.

FINGERTIP STARS OPI was inspired by the new film, Sony Pictures’ Burlesque, to create twelve limited-edition Nail Lacquers for Holiday 2010. “OPI is thrilled to partner with Sony Pictures’ Screen gems on this exciting movie release,” declared Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI Executive Vice President & Artistic Director. “The colors were modeled off the majestic glamour, over-the-top costumes and mesmerizing cabaret that are typically seen in Burlesque performances. The resulting bright, dazzling shades are perfect for the holiday season.” The Burlesque Collection features Bring on the Bling, Glow Up Already!, Extra-va-vaganza, Simmer & Shimmer, Show It & Glow It!, Sparkle-icious, Rising Star, Take the Stage, The Show Must Go On!, Let Me Entertain You, Ali’s Big Break and Tease-y Does It. They are each priced at $8.50. The OPI Holiday 2010 Burlesque Collection is available at professional salons, Chatters, Dillard’s, JCPenney, Pure Beauty, Regis, Trade Secret and ULTA. OPI also offers options to fit a range of merchandising needs. BF

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OPI has several merchandising display options including Ali’s Big Break. It is priced at $12.50.

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CEW HONORS 5 ACHIEVERS (continued from page 30)

Ms. Singer and Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates

Clinique’s Lynne Greene and Ms. Pardo Coty Prestige’s Carlos Timiraos, Catherine Walsh, Susan Kelly and Jon Dinapoli

Speaking as a runner, Ms. Keith believes that “competition makes you better. Next to finishing my first marathon, my proudest moment is today.” Ms. Pardo’s first job was selling behind a counter at Macy’s, which sparked her interest in cosmetics. She advised, “For those starting out in their careers, find what you love to do.” Ms. Poccia thanked those who have helped and mentored her. She maintains “Avon and mark. share the vision of making others business leaders. Your greatest [achievement] is to give your knowledge to someone else and watch them flourish.”

“Working with my team every day makes it all worthwhile,” declared Ms. Price. “I am here today because of them.” Ms. Singer acknowledged the Designers Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang and Kenneth Cole and Perfumers she works with in developing fragrances for Coty Prestige. Crediting her husband, Mark, with teaching her that “life is full of curve balls,” she affirmed that “change is constant. I believe that the key to success is about adapting.”

Robertet’s Jérome Epinet, Lorene Broc and Joe Lattarulo

Maesa Group’s Glen Tatem, Jill Belasco and Scott Kestenbaum

Sephora’s Bernadette Fitzpatrick, Sharon Rothstein, Allison Slater and Jessica Stacey

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Trudi Loren, Cos Policastro of Givaudan and Avon’s Isabel Lopes

IFF’s Maria Virginia Beltrao, Amy Bourne, Mara Dumski and Sue McEwen (r.) with Bond No. 9’s Laurice Rahmé

Arcade’s Eric Dalbo and Diane Crecca (2nd r.) with Michael Alpeir and Giovanni Boiano of Coty BF

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CounterIntelligence (continued from page 31)

Dior Beauty’s Bill Shaffer shows off the Backstage Makeup area.

Dior Beauty’s Elizabeth Sadkowski, Bela Gausman, Ms. Mushio and Jeana Maduina

Lord & Taylor’s Tina Occhino, May Lau and Sally Shaw with Ms. Darland and Ms. Zinn-Moore

Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins, Bertrand Tefra and Janis Vaile

The descriptive text at the displays gives customers a sense of the products. Mr. Shaffer informs, “Text can be placed adjacent to the products. Previously, we weren’t able to do that. The Copywriters and marketing work to produce language that is consumer-friendly. That text is changed with new ranges and launches, and we also have the ability to tweak current text as needed.” There is also more room for the Beauty Stylists to maneuver,” he continued. “Customers have designated areas where they can sit down for consultations and makeovers as opposed to the former chair on the aisle. The new Color Bar is lower and delineates each product group for eyes, lips and face. They provide an explanation of products for the customer.” “Our Backstage Makeup table is our area to do makeovers and consultations,” Mr. Shaffer said. Ms. Darland points out that the “long Backstage runway makeup consultation table has room for four clients at one time. They can sit and

Dior Beauty’s Angela Hill, Jamie Seidner, Janis Vaile and Joanna Grillo at the state-of-the-art fragrance display

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Ms. Hawkins (2nd l.) joins Dior Beauty’s Jim Anderson (2nd r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Rich Weiner and David Clements.

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play by themselves or have a full-on consultation and makeover by one of our five trained Beauty Stylists.” “The use of videos brings to life all of the Dior runway shows that so inspire the creation of such beautiful beauty products,” she added. “This sets the stage for makeovers.” The videos change seasonally with new fashion collections. Mr. Shaffer said the visual presentations change every two months with beauty trends and new products. “The visuals are generated in Paris, and production work is done in the US. The images are developed for global use as a one-world, one-Dior approach. We do our part to carry out and support that concept.” Customers can sit comfortably and Each mascara in the Dior Beauty play with makeup at the Backstage line can be viewed by customers. Makeup space or have a makeover.

Dior Beauty’s fragrance display shows the depth of the collection.

Customers can use these tools to play with color cosmetics at The Backstage Makeup table.

He is proud of the fragrance presentation, which shows the depth of the entire collection. “It is a whole new way for Dior Beauty to showcase the bottles. It puts fragrance front and center. A separate platform for testers allows the customer to touch and play with the scents. A pull-out tray highlights the ancillary fragrance products.” Angela Hill, Christian Dior Parfums Account Executive, explained how the new space is affecting the sales team and in turn, the customers. “It sparkles! We’re so proud of our team and we’re proud of our surroundings. The customers can feel it. We have so many regulars who come to us for their special occasions or for just a pick-me-up.” The new Dior Beauty look extends beyond the beautiful new installation at Lord & Taylor. “Speaking of glamour,” Ms. Darland declared, “Our Beauty Stylists are wearing Dior uniforms designed by the [Christian Dior] fashion house exclusively for Dior Beauty.” Mr. Shaffer maintains that there was a “really good collaborative effort” between Dior Beauty and Lord & Taylor in executing the plan for the new instillation. “Lord & Taylor was quite clear about its intention for the overall presentation and lighting for the department. They wanted to preserve the heritage of the building while bringing it up to 2010. We were able to easily come to what would work for us. With minor tweaks between the two groups, we got to the finished design pretty quickly. Lord & Taylor did a superb job with overhead ambient lighting.”

The skincare display for Dior Beauty has been All Dior Beauty’s eyeshadow palettes are enhanced by back lighting. available for testing.

Dior Beauty’s options for the face

“Each client at the Dior Beauty installation can now be greeted and given the excellent D.I.O.R. service that has become the standard in our company,” Ms. Darland enthused “We train our team to make sure they perform [at a high level] every day. It’s all about the people.” BF

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INDURSKY SETS COURSE FOR (continued from page 32)

story at retail, on our Web site and in our catalog. If we don’t make that spa-to-product connection clear, then we’re just another brand—and bliss® is not just another brand. Secondly, we are always improving our customer service, which most manufacturers don’t have to deal with. They ship the products to retailers and that’s it. We have 21 spas around the world and hundreds of thousands of consumers who come to our spas. Every person needs to feel special when they come to our spas. It’s really about making sure that anything short of leaving our spa saying, “That was the best service I’ve ever had” is a failure to us. We are always trying to improve our game by working with our talent—from our Guest Service Associates (GSA) all the way to our Managers. We have a program called the Best Tech on the Planet, which is an international training program for new and existing spa technicians. We want to make sure they are the best Technicians and are consistently learning and improving their skills. We do believe we have the best, and most requested technicians in the world. BF: What is the process for training Spa Technicians at bliss®? MI: We begin by hiring highly experienced people. Our techs are already the most knowledgeable in their field; we strive to make sure they are learning every single day—not only the bliss® way, but in overall spa. Each tech goes through an extensive, multi-week training in treatment protocol, hands-on testing and product education. Then we take them through the Guide To Greatness program. It’s our internal program, which covers everything about our brand from the exceptional customer service to the unique brand standards, even the brownies that we provide as a treat for customers. Currently, we are reevaluating and updating the Guide To Greatness program. As you learn more about customer service, you notice little things that you were not previously aware of that offer an opportunity for improvement. The Guide To Greatness and the Best Tech on the Planet programs are critical components of our brand. BF: Will you expand your research and development to bring more unique bliss® products to customers? MI: Our product development is done internally in our New York City headquarters, and we also have a lot of external partners. We are going to be expanding our R&D driven by innovation. BF: You now have a bliss® fragrance. Are there any plans to expand that portfolio? MI: The bliss® fragrance was developed by MANE USA prior to my arrival at the company, and I came on board just as it was launched. I have had a long relationship with MANE USA, and they are terrific. [In the formulation], they were able to hint at the scent and sentiment of the spa but also capture that amazing bliss® feeling of happiness, contentment and wonder you have after having the best service at the spa. MANE USA was so good at doing that, and we couldn’t be happier with their work. We are getting a lot of great comments and press about the bliss® fragrance, which is a beautiful juice. For people who have had a stressful day and can’t get a massage, they can have a spritz. We are very proud of bliss® eau de toilette. It is not our goal to be a major fragrance player, although we are not ruling out the possibility of doing another one down the road. BF: How are you driving sales of bliss® products and do you have any plans for expanding the channels of distribution? MI: When a guest finishes their treatment at a bliss® spa, she is given a blisscription by a spa technician with the recommended skincare regimen and suggested products (bliss® and other brands). We ensure recommendations that are best for that client’s skin. The customized blisscription informs what products have been used on the client or ones that she should be using. When she goes to the GSA, they will help her find those products and answer any questions. We try not to be too aggressive. When you have a bliss® spa experience, the last thing you want is to fend off a sales pitch. We really try to have a very low-key approach, and there is no pressure to purchase. Here is a basket with the recommended products that could help you. It’s your choice whether you want to purchase at check-out or not. To improve this process, we are looking at a whole new level of merchandising to better explain the products. We will be testing this concept shortly, and it is slated to roll out in the first quarter. This merchandising program is about better communicating how that spa service translates into products with an explanation of each one. We will

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be initiating it in our bliss® spas and then rolling it out to retail. Our retail partners really want to work with us on implementing this new merchandising concept in their stores. After the customer’s service at a bliss® spa, the spa technician sends a personalized note [as a follow-up]. It’s a wonderful way to keep the relationship going. However, we don’t have any continuity program on products. BF: How well do you believe the bliss® message is perceived by consumers at this point? Will you use any new ways to get out the bliss® message? MI: The understanding people have of bliss® is probably mixed. Everyone gets the bliss® happy spirit, and some have a better understanding of that spa link than others. Our goal is to have people see bliss® as a spa-inspired brand. We intend to improve the communication about bliss® products. Even if there is not a bliss® spa in a city or town, consumers will know about the bliss® spa. They will know why these products are unique and different from every other manufacturer’s products. We will achieve this through in-store communication. It’s part of that go-to-market merchandising concept I referred to. Consumers will know about the bliss® story and what role our products play in the bliss® spa experience. BF: How will social media fit in to your plans to grow the company? MI: Social media, especially for a small brand like ours, is very important. We have incredibly loyal consumers, and we are looking to continue and build on that relationship. We have made a lot of changes internally to accommodate our expansion of social media. In the last four months, we’ve grown our Facebook fan base by 40% and grown our Twitter followers over 20%. The key point to remember is that people must believe it is worth their time to go on our Facebook page and look at our Tweets, or they will fall off. The fact that we have gotten such quick growth shows that our content is relevant. We are now using Facebook and Twitter in a more meaningful way, and we are seeing a big difference as well as getting a lot of followers. In order to harness the power of social media, you have to engage. Engaging the client is what we do best at the bliss® spa. By using social media, we are able to interact with our customers, even if there is not a bliss® spa in their market. If a person sees someone talking on Twitter to another, they will ask, “What are they talking about?” So, it grows a social circle. If we say something relevant and give insightful information on the bliss® spa, then they are Tweeting it to all of their followers. Social media is a good fit for bliss®. It’s a delicate balance of communicating our opinion and our voice and speaking the consumer’s language as well. If we’re too branded, someone may not want to engage with us because it might feel insincere or too aggressive. But, if it’s welcome and engaging, it is just like talking to someone in the spa. BF: Have you set any goals for bliss® at this point? MI: I was so excited to join this company because the bliss® brand has got such potential in every part of the business—telling our story through better communication, quality of distribution and also going for aggressive growth internationally. At this point, our international business is relatively small. We have been contacted by countries all around the world, and now, as part of Steiner Leisure Limited, a global company, we have the resources in place to start going after that expansion of international business. We currently have bliss® Spas in Hong Kong, Singapore, London, Barcelona and Doha. We also have distribution in all of those places. There is a big difference between being in the market and of the market. You can be in any market, but to be of the market means subscribing to consumers’ needs, their language and everything else about them. From a social media standpoint, it’s about making sure they get the bliss® experience, but in a way that suits their needs, their understanding and their curiosity. From a product innovation standpoint, we must make sure we target the beauty regimens and needs for each country. We must have knowledge of the market and make sure we are able to meet its needs before we enter a market. There is a tremendous upside [to the bliss® brand]. It is seen for its uniqueness. So many of the American brands, especially in the prestige category, look alike. Nothing looks like bliss®, and we’re happy about that. We have a lot of opportunity in innovation. The biggest challenge is not what to do, but what to do first. BF

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Girl’s Night Out (continued from page 34)

Macy’s Nancy Schmidt and Regina Vespaziani

Ms. Breen and Dior Beauty’s Terry Darland

TAAZ’s Maggie Ciafardini with Dior Beauty’s Janis Vaile and Lisa Hawkins

LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics’ Pamela Baxter with Ms. Dowley

Ms. Baxter and Ms. Walter with The Fashion Group’s Margaret Hayes

Macy’s Muriel Gonzalez with Ms. Park Ms. Breen with Laura Mercier’s Ellen Greenwald

Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kaladjian Lagani (2nd r.) with Ms. McKay, Ms. Hayes and Ms. Levy

BF NOVEMBER 2010 /

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CEW Retail Roundtable (continued from page 35)

products with advanced technology, which was proven by the results of skincare as the fastest growing category throughout the recession, most notably for the development in anti-aging innovation. Customers are most significantly looking for innovation, newness and the assurance of significant results. With the immediate accessibility of the Internet, consumers are savvier than ever before. With instantaneous product knowledge, from customer reviews and ingredient information, consumers have become more confident and, in turn, more willing to spend money on proven results. The consumer wants to be sure that she is getting the highest quality and most effective product available, so each purchase is cautiously considered. Ms. Rothstein spoke of the Sephora customer as more

Arcade’s Diane Crecca with Joe Bierman of Aaron Consulting and Skyn Iceland’s Nikki Koch

Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity’s Laura Geller with Linda Marshall of Elysée Scientific Cosmetics

NPD Group’s Caroline Pisaniello, Diane Nicholson and Judy Sone

Elana Drell Szyfer and Nancy Levitan

discriminating when choosing a new product, adding that Sephora’s Web site has approximately 1 million product reviews to assist in the selection process. The increased ICON Beauty’s Louise Caldwell and Jennifer Hannum with Minkie Lee use of social media Web sites is also largely affecting the of Grace Beauty shift in the way people are purchasing new products, allowing consumers to be interconnected to peers as well as to brands. Social media Web sites have allowed companies to build relationships with their customers. Ms. Grant emphasized that it is no longer about “talking ‘to’ a customer, but talking ‘with’ them.” The recession has, in various ways, molded consumers into becoming wiser shoppers, and companies alike are adapting to this new, discerning customer. BF

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Z

IN N THE

COMFORT CO MFORT O

O ONE

(continued from page 36)

Keep Calm

Night Work

Dior Capture Totale Intensive Night Restorative Rich Crème and Capture Totale 21 Night Renewal Treatment help the skin to withstand stresses during the day and repair itself.

Skin benefits from the overnight application of Dior Beauty’s new Capture Totale 21 Night Renewal Treatment. Its 3-phase program helps to transform the skin with the complementary action of three different serums with a progressive concentration of ingredients. After one week of use, the skin is smoother and more even, and radiance is enhanced. During week two, the skin appears more firm and refined. At the completion of the treatment in the third week, the skin regains its tone and elasticity. The Dior Capture Totale 21 Night Renewal Treatment is priced at $225.00. To recharge the skin with energy during the night and stimulate the skin’s own anti-oxidant production, Dior Beauty has developed Capture Totale Intensive Night Restorative Rich Crème. It optimizes the skin’s defense capabilities during the day and contains aminolumine, alpha-longoza complex, centuline and calamansi to work overnight to correct all signs of aging. It is priced at $140.00. Both new products are available now at Dior Beauty counters nationwide.

Kate Solomon, the Founder of Babo Botanicals, has expanded the line with the Lavender Meadowsweet Collection. The formulations are based on lavender which Ms. Solomon believes is “the ideal calming fragrance for mom, babies and children.” Babo Botanicals’ Lavender Meadowsweet 3 in 1: Bubble Bath & Shampoo & Wash gently cleanses the hair, scalp and skin. Its Meadowsweet oil gently moisturizes delicate skin. It comes in a 12 oz. size for $16.95. Lavender Meadowsweet Calming Moisturizing Lotion is for all skin types. The formulation nourishes, soothes and softens skin. It comes in an 8 oz. size The Babo Botanicals Lavender for $16.50. Meadowsweet Collection of 3 in 1: Bubble Bath & Shampoo & Wash Both new Babo Botanand Calming Moisturizing Lotion icals products in the are not tested on animals. Meadowsweet Comfort & Calm Collection are produced on an organic farm in upstate New York. They are available now at babobotanicals.com.

Head To Toe

Super by Dr. Nicholas Perricone is green, packaged in recycled glass and 80% PCR cartons.

Dr. Nicholas Perricone has developed a superfood-based skincare line for the face and body with an infusion of potent anti-oxidants. Super by Dr. Nicholas Perricone is a collection of 12 new products inspired by superfoods. Each product contains a superfood celebrated for its anti-oxidant potency. The Super line includes Face & Eye Cleanser with Acai Berry, Detox Elixir with Watercress, Hyper Hydrator with Coconut Water, O-Mega Moisture with Chia, Night Recharge with Red Algae, Acne Treatment with Green Apple, 3-Minute Facial with Ginger, Lush Lips with Coconut Oil, Bright Eyed NOVEMBER 2010 /

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with Melon, Hand & Cuticle Cream with Yogurt, Supermodel Legs with Chili Pepper and Body Toning Serum with Olive Oil. Super by Dr. Nicholas Perricone ranges in price from $25.00 to $50.00 and is available now at the Super boutique in Berkeley, California, at all Sephora stores and at sephora.com as well as at getsuper.com with iPhone and iPad applications.

French Skincare In 1978, Annick Goutal created the Bonpoint Perfume. Now the Bonpoint brand has added a complementary, completely natural and hypoallergenic skincare and bath line. The line is formulated with orange blossom, cotton flower and cherry blossom. The Bonpoint skincare and bath line includes Milk Bath, Foam Bath, Gentle Oil, Face Cream and Body Cream. They range in price from $40.00 to $65.00. The line is available at Bonpoint boutiques and at bonpoint.com.

The Bonpoint fragrance now has a complementary skincare and bath line.

Hair Repair Sam Brocato, an authority in hair care formulations and styling, has introduced new products to his collection. Based in both New Orleans and at New York City’s Sam Brocato Salon located in SoHo, Mr. Brocato develops solutions for challenging hair care issues. They are all sulfate- and paraben-free. The new Curlinterrupted Smoothing System is a professional alternative to formaldehyde-based formulations. This Curlinterrupted line includes Smoothing and Hydrating Shampoo, Smoothing and Hydrating Treatment, Actives Restorative Hair Infusion, Curl Calming Balm, Smoothing Gel, Keratin Protein Spray and Smoothing System. The Curlinterrupted System ranges The Cloud 9™ Miracle Repair Collection in price from $18.75 to $35.00. Mr. Brocato developed Cloud 9™ Miracle Repair Collection to help make hair stronger and change from lifeless to lustrous. This Cloud 9™ Miracle Repair regimen consists of Shampoo, Treatment, Mousse, Blow Dry Serum, Flat Iron & Curling Spray, Style Crème and Body Butter. The collection ranges in price from $15.95 to $20.95. Big Easy Volumizing Dry Shampoo is Mr. Brocato’s quick and convenient way to revive and rejuvenate hair in seconds. No water is required for this spray, which contains oil-absorbing ingredients to eliminate impurities and increase volume, leaving hair cleansed and texturized. The Big Easy It is priced at $17.95. Volumizing Dry Shampoo revives All of the Sam Brocato products are available at the Sam Brocato Salon, at salons nationwide hair in seconds. and at store.sambrocatosalon.com. BF NOVEMBER 2010 /

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SAN FRANCISCO BEAT (continued from page 37)

a best seller and that it “was difficult to keep the lipsticks in stock.” In twelve gorgeous colors, the Private Blend Lip Color Collection contains moisturizers like murumuru butter and soja seed and are beautifully packaged in an ivory and gold case.

Mauro Solorio, Sak’s Beauty Advisor for Dolce & Gabbana

The San Francisco Saks is also home to the new prestigious Dolce & Gabbana Makeup Boutique and is one of only four Saks stores in the country to carry the line, quite the cosmetics coup. According to Mauro Solorio, Saks’ Dolce & Gabbana Beauty Advisor, the biggest seller is the new Evocative Beauty Collection. The collection was inspired by a woman’s “fierce sensuality anchored by her innermost femininity,” according to Domenico Dolce. The ad campaign, which features Scarlett Johansson, showcases a key makeup trend for fall—dark lipstick. Each lip product is infused with a trademark rose scent, reminiscent of old-Hollywood glamour. “The rose has always been an icon to us, representing deep womanly sensuality in full bloom, so it seemed natural that it served equally as inspiration in our quest for the perfect collection of lipsticks, and each lipstick shares an intoxicating velvety smooth fragrance redolent of the wild rose gardens of Sicily,” Mr. Dolce said recently. The look is seriously seductive, inspired by the rogue spirit of today’s Sicily and saluting the sartorial spirit of its proud past. Also new at Saks was Cartier’s collection of fragrances, Les Heures de Parfums. The house of Cartier celebrates their 100-year anniversary with this unisex collection. These luxurious fragrances are all references to Cartier’s history, inspired by moments in time. Created by inhouse Perfumer Mathilde Laurent, the lineup took two years to develop and exhibits Cartier at its bespoke best. Golden details on the flacons and cartons insinuate that highest quality of ingredients were used in these perfume compositions. The fragrances are as follows: I L’Heure Promise (The Promising Hour) “represents a moment of possibility,” VI L’Heure Brilliante (The Shining Hour) “was inspired by high-energy nightlife and neon effervescence,” X L’Heure Folle (The Crazy Hour) “was inspired by Cartier’s Tutti Frutti jewelry collection,” XII L’Heure Mystérieuse (The Mysterious Hour) and XIII La Treizième Heure, the 13th hour, described by Ms. Laurent as “olfactive trickery.” NOVEMBER 2010 /

Bond No. 9, the perennial favorite at Saks Fifth Avenue—the city’s only official Bond No. 9 boutique, continues to soar with outstanding sales. While I was visiting, six bottles were sold as Cosmetic and Frag ra n c e s S p e c i a l i s t Camille Flaherty stood out as one of the harde s t wo r k i n g S a l e s Claudia Cantu with her Bond No. 9 Associates I have seen purchase with Saks Cosmetics and in a long time. Her Fragrances Specialist Camille Flaherty knowledge was impressive as she sold bottle after bottle of the latest Bond No. 9 scents, as well as the popular classics. Neiman Marcus San Francisco was proud to host RéVive Founder Dr. Gregory Brown and RéVive Senior Vice President Hylton Lea in a private seminar. RéVive was launched after Dr. Brown successfully employed a multi-million dollar study on the cosmetic application of Nobel Prizewinning Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), a molecule Dr. Gregory Brown, RéVive Founder originally famed for its healing effects on burn victims and one that rejuvenates otherwise healthy skin. He began using RéVive on patients in 1991 and obtained the cosmetic patent for EGF in 1994. “We were able to show real results objectively with biopsies to prove we increased cell turnover,” Dr. Brown states. “There is nothing surgically that can do what RéVive does to give one the dewy glow and beautiful skin of youth. If used as a daily regimen, RéVive can delay plastic surgery and will ultimately decrease the magnitude of any surgical procedure ever desired or needed.” Mr. Lea’s passion for RéVive skincare is very meaningful both professionally and personally. Having lived and breathed beauty for the majority of his professional career, Mr. Lea’s experience includes in-house sales development and strategic sales growth initiatives for brands including Bliss and Boucheron. Mr. Lea works closely with RéVive founder Dr. Brown on every step of the product development process and serves as a senior brand representative and spokesperson for the brand. Dr. Brown and Mr. Lea evaluated skincare needs and discussed concerns on a one-on-one basis with clients. This event truly represents the best of RéVive and Neiman Marcus. BF

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NOTES FROM PARIS (continued from page 43)

encouraging. A second way of developing new naturals is to add value to already existing naturals through innovation. Thus innovation in new naturals can come from specific and unique qualities of existing naturals (featured in our Orpur collection), new extraction or treatment techniques of naturals, but also in investigating the global biodiversity in order to find new botanical species never used before in perfumery (like our exclusive red ginger from Laos). Givaudan is also investing in biosciences and enzymatic treatments of naturals, which will broaden the scope for new naturals in the coming years. The possibilities are immense, and they all expand opportunities of diversity of Perfumers’ palettes for the benefit of the consumer. A third way of developing new naturals is to go hunting for them. This is exactly what we do with our ScentTrek™ program. Teams of Givaudan scientists travel the world looking for new, and often totally unknown, naturals. They might find them growing in the canopy of a tropical rain forest or in an isolated desert region. In most cases, the discoveries are more inspirational [than actual usage] because it would be impossible to cultivate some of the flowers that grow at the top of canopy of the Rainforest or in a remote desert region, and it would not be feasible or advisable to cut them down and bring them back to the lab. Instead, our teams take what we call ‘head-space’ readings [identifying and measuring the molecules in the fragrant air immediately surrounding the plant or flower], and then synthetically replicating this unique formula in a lab. Two words that go hand in hand in Givaudan’s strategy for growth are innovation and sustainability. It’s important to realize that as the world’s population continues to grow, land use planning will become increasingly important, and when facing the challenge of feeding six billion people, ylang-ylang and roses will certainly not be top priorities when competing with wheat or rice. For this reason, the search for sustainable naturals becomes even more apparently crucial. Givaudan’s updated 5-Year Strategy is a solid commitment to our belief that by husbanding the benefits of our size and strength, we can continue to find innovative ways of enhancing creativity in our products and services, while at the same time, maintain long-term profitability and sustainability. BF

NOVEMBER 2010 /

EAUX OF SUCCESS (continued from page 46)

The Alexia fragrance is available in a 50 ml size Eau de Toilette for $26.90 and also is presented in a 7.5 ml Rollerball for $12.90. The fragrances are accompanied by six fall nail colors and two flirty lip gloss options. The Alexia collection is sold exclusively in Garage stores and online at garage.ca.

NEW CLOTHES

The Harajuku Lovers fragrance collection is dressed in “Wicked Style.”

Coty Prestige has dressed its iconic dolls in the Harajuku Lovers Fragrance collection in “Wicked Style.” The Harajuku Girls and G have made their way back to the streets of Harajuku, and one of their favorite places to see and be seen in Harajuku is Takeshita-Dori—a narrow pedestrian-only street packed with young fashionable people. The Harajuku Girls and G are dressed in “wicked style” that is expressed in their brightly colored, “flocked” hair down to their super cute shoes. The fruity, floral Love fragrance is presented in a Sweet Lolita bottle, and this Harajuku girl is wearing a bodice princess jumper dress decorated with lace, heart buttons and a large bow clip. The sparkling floral juice for Lil Angel has a bottle decorated as Gothic Lolita wearing a baby doll, lace-trimmed jumper dress with a scooped neckline and ruffled hem. The flacon for Music’s woody, floral juice is attired as Visual Kei wearing a school uniform blazer with pins of her favorite musicians. Kawaii/Decora is Baby’s fashion, and her vanilla floral fragrance is presented in a bottle decorated with a bright yellow and hot pink sweater layered over a bright green t-shirt. The fruity floral juice for G is presented in a bottle decorated with an emerald green, short vintage free-flowing cape dress with six pearl buttons. Each carton of the Harajuku Lovers displays that girl’s color combination on a checkerboard pattern wrapped with a coordinated colored ribbon. The Harajuku Lovers collection comes in a 10 ml for $30.00 and 30 ml, $45.00. They are now at Sephora locations nationwide. Customers can immerse themselves in all things Harajuku Lovers by going online at HLfragrance.com. BF 61

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

FIRMENICH’S ATKINSON NAMED VP, BODY & HOME CARE, NA

MARKWINS INTERNATIONAL APPOINTS COLE AS WALMART TEAM LEADER

Joy Atkinson has been promoted to Vice President, Body & Home Care, North America, adding creation, marketing and development to her responsibilities. Joy Atkinson

CANTANESE PROMOTED WITHIN SELF BEAUTY DEPARTMENT

NEW HIRE AT SCENTISPHERE Scentisphere LLC announced the hiring of Jeanine Rivera to the position of Director of Fragrance Evaluation. Ms. Rivera will be supervising scent development and evaluation, primarily for the prestige fragrance market. Ms. Rivera most recently held the title of Jeanine Rivera Senior Sales Coordinator at International Flavors and Fragrances, overseeing many of the day-to-day development and planning functions for the Procter & Gamble account.

LAURA GELLER BEAUTY INGENUITY EXPANDS SENIOR MANAGEMENT TEAM Alyce Cucurullo has been named Vice President & General Manager of Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity, spearheading organizational management and growth opportunities and serving as the direct liaison to founder and CEO Laura Geller. Prior to this role, Ms. Cucurullo founded Practical Profit Optimizers Inc. Lori Mariano has joined Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity as Vice President of Marketing, responsible for leading all marketing programs, branding and communications. Previously, Ms. Mariano has held senior management positions at L’Oréal, Coty and MANE USA.

NOVEMBER 2010 /

Markwins International announced the hiring of Michael Cole as their Walmart Team Leader. Mr. Cole will be responsible for both divisions at Walmart; Markwins Beauty Products, featuring wet n wild and Black Radiance brands; and Markwins International, featuring The Color Workshop, ACT, and Barbie. Mr. Cole joins Markwins directly from Johnson & Johnson.

Nicole Cantanese has been named Senior Beauty Features Editor of SELF. Joining the magazine in 2008, Ms. Cantanese has won several American Academy of Dermatology awards from stories she has either composed or edited.

NAFTOLIN JOINS NARS COSMETICS Lisa Naftolin has joined NARS Cosmetics as Executive Director, Creative Brand Development. Ms. Naftolin will lead NARS’ Creative Department and Creative Agencies as well as partner with NARS Founder and Creative Director, François Nars, to ensure his vision is flawlessly executed across all Creative Brand Elements & Visual Merchandising. She spent the past 7 years as Creative Director at Art + Commerce.

HOARE JOINS TOWN&COUNTRY AS GUEST FASHION DIRECTOR Town&Country’s Sarajane Hoare has come aboard as Guest Fashion Director. In this role, Ms. Hoare will cover all collections and will direct the fashion editorial for the March 2011 Spring Fashion issue, reporting to Editor-In-Chief Stephen Drucker.

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

PEOPLE & PROMOTIONS

BOARDROOM BULLETINS


CIBS 2010 CALENDAR

Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers www.cibsonline.com

NOVEMBER 10th_________ Members Only Luncheon--------12:00 Noon Wednesday Harvard Club, NYC

NOVEMBER 17th_________ Networking Series: Wednesday Taking Control of Your Career-----------5:30 PM Epoca, NYC

DECEMBER 4th_________ Holiday Dinner/Dance-----------7:00 PM Saturday New York Hilton, NYC

DECEMBER 8th _________ Monthly Luncheon-----------12:00 Noon Wednesday The Manhattan Club, NYC

NOVEMBER 2010 /

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BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR

NOVEMBER 18th

Fragrance Foundation State of the Industry Luncheon Harvard Club • NYC 11:30 AM (TA) (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org

SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro (M) Meeting (P) Press Trip (R) Reception (S) Seminar (T) Trade Show

DECEMBER 10th

ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available

Skin Cancer Foundation Sunscreen Symposium NYC 9:00 AM www.skincancer.org

* Phone numbers provided are for further information.

JANUARY 30th - FEBRUARY 3rd

2010

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty of Giving Luncheon Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

2011 JANUARY 27th

Cosmetic Executive Women Women in Beauty Series with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer Fairmont Miramar • Santa Monica CA 6:00 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

NOVEMBER 8th

Glamour Women of the Year Awards Carnegie Hall • NYC 7:00 PM (A) (IO)

NOVEMBER 10th

Extracts Jacob K. Javits Center • NYC (T) (800) 272-7469 www.extractsny.com

APRIL 23rd

Fragrance Foundation FiFi Finalists Breakfast Members Only Mandarin Oriental Hotel • NYC 8:30 AM (A) (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org

APRIL 30 - MAY 3rd

NACDS Annual Meeting The Phoenician • Scottsdale AZ (M) (703) 549-3001 www.nacds.org

Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference Ritz Carlton • San Francisco CA (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org

MAY 18 – 19th

FEBRUARY 8th

James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro and Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664

Luxe Pack New York Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (212) 274-8508 www.luxepack.com

MAY 19th

Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting The Breakers • Palm Beach FL (M) (202) 331-1770

Fashion Institute of Technology Master’s Program Capstone Presentations & Reception FIT • NYC 5:30 PM (A) (IO) (212) 217-4306 www.fitnyc.edu/cfmm

MARCH 9th

MAY 25th

FEBRUARY 28 - MARCH 2nd

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

Cosmetic Executive Women Women in Beauty Series with Givaudan’s Calice Becker and The Estée Lauder Companies’ Trudi Loren Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

MARCH 18 - 20th

NOVEMBER 11th

MARCH 29 - 30th

NJPEC Package of the Year Awards Dinner The Manor • West Orange NJ 6:00 PM (A) (908) 233-1234 www.njpec.com

Global Art of Perfumes Trends in Fragrance, Skincare and Colors Maritim Hotel • Dusseldorf Germany (T)

MAY 16 - 20th

NOVEMBER 3rd

Fragrance Foundation Insider’s Breakfast Hosted by The Estée Lauder Companies’ Carol Russo Estée Lauder HQ • NYC 8:30 AM Members Only (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org

APRIL 9 - 10th

Beauty International Trade Fair for Cosmetic, Nail, Foot & Wellness Professionals Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5180 www.beauty-international.com

Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards The Downtown Armory • NYC 6:00 PM (A) (TA) (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org

SEPTEMBER 11 - 14th

Beyond Beauty Paris Porte de Versailles • France (T) www.beyondbeautyparis.com

SEPTEMBER 21st

Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center Shanghai China (T) (212) 274-8508 www.luxepack.com

Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum with Avon’s Andrea Jung Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.

NOVEMBER 2010 /

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