Inside Sustainable, romantic fashion ............................... p3 It’s not sewing any more it’s Fashion Design Technology .................................p4-5 Conﬁdence after the ‘Big C’.................................... p6 Your diamond and bespoke jewellery design specialists.....................................p7 Style gallery.............................................................. p8 Feet are like ﬁngerprints, they’re all different.....p10 Step out in style this summer............................... p11 From technology to lacemaking ......................p12-13 Made in Aotearoa....................................................p14 Cover image:
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Sustainable, Romantic Fashion By Chrys Ayley
t was a love of renaissance art, fabricand photography that inspired Holly Norman to create a range of garments all made with second-hand materials. Holly, just 19, recently returned from New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW) as she was lucky enough to be selected as one of four young designers to participate in the New Generation show. This was a signiﬁcant achievement for the Havelock North designer as she only left Havelock North High School last year and is very new to the fashion design world. She did, however, study fabrics during her last year at school. Since leaving school she has been working on her designs and taking seasonal work such as picking fruit and working in kitchens. Holly ﬁnds that she enjoys working with people so this work is a good counterbalance to her rather solitary work as a designer. Olli is a bold combination of renaissance trends and modern street style. The result is completely over the top and beautiful, she says. “I like to focus on overexaggeration, sleeves too wide, necks too high and rufﬂes too plentiful.” Showing at NZFW was an experience that was quite terrifying and it was all over very quickly. “There were four of us
Olli debuts at New Zealand Fashion Week-the new generation.
running around like headless chickens!” It was a great learning experience with lots of little details popping up not considered previously, and Holly saw the need to be very organised. There was a screen backstage so the designers could watch the models on stage but it “was all over in a ﬂash,” she says. Most designers walk on stage and take a bow at the end but Holly didn’t feel up to that in spite of having plenty of family support in the audience. What especially sets Holly apart from other emerging designers is that all her garments are made using second-hand materials. Initially she started off resurrecting secondhand clothing then went on to buy sheets and blankets and started creating designs from scratch. Holly is not willing to make a compromise on her choice of materials,
Showing at NZFW was an amazing experience for Holly.
being aware of the need for fashion to be sustainable. Most of her designs are one of a kind which she quite likes. She starts with a basic pattern and builds on it. The ideas come as she works on each piece so each garment grows as she works. The world is full of opportunity and Holly has many options including having her own show at NZFW. She has a good following on Instagram (2300+) and her new web site is taking shape. She’s already in discussion with several fashion outlets regarding supplying Olli and has a retailer in Napier.
What especially sets Holly apart from other emerging designers is that all her garments are made using secondhand materials.
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It’s not sewing any more it’s Fashion Design Technology By Chrys Ayley
ften when Fiona Fox, the Fashion Design Technology teacher at Sacred Heart College in Napier, takes on new students she ﬁnds they must start at the very beginning as many of them don’t know how to sew.
Learning basic life skills such as sewing were part and parcel of most children’s lives both at home and school albeit several generations ago now. Mending, sewing on buttons, and embroidery are all skills that have largely been lost. However, teaching basic skills right up to advanced pattern making skills is all part of the teaching process for Fiona who is passionate about her role and just as passionate about her creative life outside of college. She’s a painter, a sculptural artist and writes poetry. “I studied fashion and design at Massey University in Wellington, I have been a pattern drafter, freelance designer, business owner with my own fashion label, Fiona Fox Design: I supplied six stores throughout New Zealand.” In addition to working in a variety of jobs, including kindergartens, she also studied overseas at the London College of Fashion and later trained under David Jones Marketing, buying and merchandising. In 2011 she studied at EIT Bachelor of Visual Arts and Design – a stepping stone
towards her goal of becoming a teacher - and was top Studio Visual Arts Student in her degree class. She then trained for a Diploma in Teaching and became a fully qualiﬁed teacher in 2015. The mother of two has come to realise that she is here to create and be of service to others. “Teaching is so overwhelming I need to keep my art practice current for balance, my art tells a story of who we are. It’s important for students to know who they are. The life skills I’m teaching are more about students ﬁnding their own voice. I guess it’s about being authentic.” While sewing at college has now evolved into technology, there is so much more that’s embraced within the study which pushes students to be creative and innovative, she says. “They’re doing project work, using creativity and balancing it with critical thinking, research and the desire to ﬁnd out more. I want them to ask why, why should we produce it, what impact will it have if we make it? Technology is very literacy based now - you really do have to be analytical and ask questions.” “Technology involves making a product that is ﬁt for purpose. When you leave here you could be using any material, wood, metal or making jewellery… our current tools are our sewing machines, but the process is the same.” The students chat about life when they are working and Fiona joins in
Fiona Fox, teacher, painter, sculptural artist and poet.
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the conversation with them, so they’re all working on projects collaboratively but at the same time, are learning about themselves and the wider world. They might consider how to develop a product for society that’s wearable and sustainable, or contemplate the damage that some fashion industries cause through pollution. Researching current social issues can inspire them to make their own products sustainably. “Technology is about teaching the students how fashion can be misleading, that fast fashion has an ethical issue. How do we make it better, how do we improve the world? Technology is also giving the students the knowledge about how society works. Students can still be fashionable but are encouraged to consider what can be recycled with materials available in New Zealand. Their task could be to re-make a fashionable garment and add value to it. Fiona ﬁrmly believes that creativity should be part and parcel of work and life. When young a teacher said not to take Art as she’d never be an artist, “It took me 40 years to go back and do what I wanted to do.” It’s this philosophy that inﬂuences her teaching. The aim is to have each student ﬁnd something they love, to make a connection with something. “Connection is the key to solving problems,” she says. In Technology classes, students not only gain specialised knowledge and skills, but also generic ones essential to all kinds of work, university study and a successful life. They are encouraged to show initiative, be innovative and creative, and learn independently and to take responsibility. They learn teamwork, communication skills and the importance of contributing to the community both socially and economically.
❝ The aim is to have each student ﬁnd
Project diagram by Tia Sabmeethavorn who is currently attending Fashion and Design school at AUT in Auckland.
something they love, to make a connection with something. “Connection is the key to solving problems.
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Coralie White is Hawke’s Bay’s only independent specialist in the ﬁtting of breastforms.
Confidence after the
‘Big C’ By Chrys Ayley
eceiving a diagnosis of breast cancer is a traumatic time for all women and their loved ones. It turns your life upside-down in an instant and sets you on a stressful and not to mention exhausting emotional rollercoaster. Fortunately there is help available to let you get back to looking like a woman again after surgery and feeling more conﬁdent in yourself. Owner of Suzelle Lingerie, Coralie White, is Hawke’s Bay’s only independent specialist in the ﬁtting of breastforms, or breast prosthesis. She knows only too well the stress associated with partial or complete breast surgery experience and the desire to look normal in clothes again. She has been in the lingerie trade for 50 years and has 35 years’ experience making women feel comfortable, and at ease, when discussing and ﬁtting breastforms. Back then women who had surgery for the ‘Big C’ were asking for pretty bras like their friends wore, not ‘nana’ bras. So Coralie set about offering more choice for clients and today she has an excellent range of modern bras, breastforms and swimwear to cater for every style and body shape. The consultation and ﬁtting can be embarrassing: in fact several clients have said the ﬁrst visit is as scary as a trip to the dentist! However, Coralie and her associate Faith Evans are very
empathetic and soon make their clients feel comfortable and relaxed. The best time for a ﬁtting is 4-6 weeks after the operation with 6 weeks being perfect, Coralie says. Although, some women who want to get back to work often start the process earlier. Consultations are by appointment and are held in a specially ﬁtted out private room where there is a good range of bras, breastforms and a sewing machine where Coralie adjusts bras if needed. A consultation can be very stressful and emotional and more often than not there are tears-happy tears that is! A good ﬁtting bra is the ﬁrst step to breastform comfort. It has to ﬁt ﬁrmly and
provide support for the breastform so it doesn’t feel heavy; although in reality the prosthetics aren’t as heavy as real breasts. Breastforms come with a 2 year warranty and will generally need
This step in the recovery process may seem daunting but Coralie and Faith know what you’re going through and guarantee that you will leave full of conﬁdence and smiling from ear to ear!
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he selection of engagement and wedding band is a deeply personal experience for a couple and now there is a jeweller in Hastings offering a boutique experience with personal service and private consultations.
Richard Funnell, an experienced jeweller and designer, formerly of Heards Jewellers, along with Jan the master jeweller between them have over 40 years-experience in the trade. They know only too well that your family milestones and heirlooms are precious and deserve time and attention to detail. The boutique, Richard James Jeweller, is a new venture that moves away from traditional jewellery stores to a collaborative approach where jeweller and clients work together. The main focus is on the creation of bespoke engagement rings, wedding bands and restoration work, Richard says. Clients may book a personal consultation with Richard to discuss their ideas and thoughts. You’ll discuss gem stones and metals, timeframes and budget before moving onto concept design. Richard uses highly sophisticated software to show you in 3D what the ring, or other bespoke piece, will look like. Virtually everything can be changed from the material such as gold or silver to width, embellishments, stones and ﬁttings. Often clients think they know what they want but once they see the design in 3D on a large monitor they often change their attitudes. There is no obligation to
Jan crafts new pieces and remodels older jewellery.
Introducing the team (from left) Jan Roelofse Master Jeweller, Stevie Stratmore Jewellery Consultant, Richard Funnell Director and Jewellery Designer.
purchase at this point and from here we can then go and put together the necessary information to ﬁnalise a quote. Recently the launch of Melt and Create has attracted the attention of couples seeking to have a hands on approach to crafting of their rings. This involves making a ring from the start-melting, rolling, forging and polishing. Another speciality is remaking old jewellery into brand new family heirlooms. Loved ones may have left precious jewellery that looks dated but the team at Richard James are able to create something special that’s contemporary yet personal. As a diamond expert Richard sources high quality diamonds from Antwerp, Belgium - the diamond capital of the world where the majority of the world’s diamonds are traded. Clients may place an order for a diamond to be hand-picked when Richard next travels over there. The team look forward to seeing you soon.
Richard uses highly sophisticated software to show clients a preview in 3D.
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Feet are like
they’re all different By Chrys Ayley
harles Grifﬁths opened a boot store on March 14, 1914, on Heretaunga Street West on a site a short distance away from the current Grifﬁths Footwear. Martin and Kaye Pipe bought the business in 2004 from Charlie Davis who retired at age 71 after 53 years at Grifﬁths Footwear. Sales assistant Lorraine Withington, who has decades of experience, joined the new owners. Martin was an engineer by trade but he had to change jobs due to health reasons so when the opportunity to purchase the historic footwear store came up in August 2004 he and Kaye jumped at the chance. People suggested that they change the name but staying with Grifﬁths seemed the appropriate thing to do. While the focus is on ladies and gents footwear the focus on service hasn’t changed at all. Unusually there’s a piano in the store that Martin often plays which brings curious people into the store. As a tribute to the original founder there are historic black and white photos of the Grifﬁths team proudly displayed on the piano. The female assistants are neatly attired in uniforms with embroidered G’s on their pockets. Martin says it used to be very much a family footwear store with
children’s shoes, galoshes, gum boots and even dancing shoes. “We took the shop through the centenary and had some of the Grifﬁths family here. We like to hang onto a bit of history, Martin says. In addition to stocking a wide range of womens’ footwear Grifﬁths stocks a great variety of mens’ shoes from dressy to casual. Martin says it’s probably “the biggest selection anywhere.” If there’s an item not in stock they’ll do their best to source it. “Feet are like ﬁngertips, they’re all different. You’ve got to get the ﬁt right, quite often the shoe you like is not right for your ﬁt,” he says.
The team at Grifﬁths, from left, Martin, Kaye and Lorraine with Bella who enjoys the attention she receives from clients.
Martin is able to stretch shoes to ﬁt on the spot.
Going the extra mile is second nature for Martin who has a shoe stretching machine so if your leather shoes are a little tight Martin can ﬁx them on the spot and also take into account individual factors such as bunions. Quality shoes deserve special treatment and there’s a range of accessories to help maintain the life of shoes such as shoe trees, shoe polishes in an excellent range of colours, shoe trees, suede brushes, heel grips and shoe laces. “I love working with people, there’s a lot of satisfaction when you get it right,” Martin says.
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here’s no doubt about it that the men of Hawke’s Bay are beginning to be more adventurous when it comes to fashion and many are aware of the beneﬁts of wearing nicely ﬁtted clothes according to Darren Olsen. Darren is the owner of Alexander’s on the corner of Heretaunga and King Streets who selects styles, many of them from Europe, that are distinct and well designed. “There’s a wonderful clothing and footwear range from casual street wear through to outﬁts for special occasions and these are all made to the high quality expected by our customers,” Darren says. David Smith shirts offer a colourful selection including spots, paisley designs and a calypso design, which come in both short and long sleeves and slim and regular ﬁt. John Lennon designs certainly make a bold statement. No Excess by the Dutch Clothing Company is slightly younger style of street wear including distinctive pastel and patterned t-shirts and polo shirts along with cotton and denim shorts. For the more conservative there’s an excellent range of exclusive brands in more muted tones including check shirts that are still very popular in the Bay. For those needing business shirts there’s a good selection including Geoffrey Beene, Lichﬁeld, Pierre Cardin, Summit and Rembrandt.
A big hit last summer is a shirt made in a crease resistant fabric called the Portobello Ironcheater which, as the name implies, doesn’t need ironing. For cooler days there are cotton knits for spring and Italian made Fratelli pullovers made in either lightweight merino or cotton/cashmere fabrics.
Just recently Alexander’s has extended its suit hire business and offers alterations completed by Stitch ‘N Time in nearby King Street. Add accessories, boots and shoes, shorts and jeans and you have a recipe for a stylish and comfortable summer. Alexanders’ fashion range can also be viewed or purchased online at www.alexandersmenswear.co.nz
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From technology to
lacemaking By Chrys Ayley
arol Rimmer knew she wanted to be a teacher when she was four. It was an exceptional clothing and textile teacher in Cheshire, England, who inspired Carol to train as a teacher. “In those days you trained to be a teacher and then specialized in a subject, she says. Having taught in the UK Carol, and her husband Joe, moved to New Zealand where she started teaching at Havelock North High School in 1979. After a long and successful career as a technology teacher and Head of Department, Carol retired at the end of 2015. She enjoys the knowledge that many of her students have gone onto successful careers in design, and more recently a range of careers prepared by studying the broader based technology as a subject. Some go onto be nurses, lawyers, a couple work in the ﬁlm industry… they’re not all fashion designers.” “Fashion is a tough industry and students have gone onto study at Massey or Toi Whakaari in Wellington, and at Otago for the Bachelor of Consumer and Applied Science. Several have gone onto be teachers.” Carol feels that those who also study business in conjunction with fashion design have an advantage in the competitive industry.
Gradually sewing classes evolved and became design technology. Students were given much more independence with their work. They were encouraged to be more creative and were given topics like designing an outﬁt for the School Ball, Carol says.
community for whom they can solve a problem.” This involved identifying an issue, researching it, coming up with possible solutions, designing and making a solution and presenting it to the ‘client’. The analysis continued with a summary of successes and areas for improvement.
Teaching methods and curricula changed greatly over the decades and initially Carol would assign a whole class the same project, such as making a shirt or skirt which they’d complete together.
Technology was introduced to give academic recognition to working with a range of materials such as wood, metal clothing, textiles and food. “Technology requires pupils to select a ‘client’ in the
It was a challenging time for teachers as they moved away from teaching just one subject but Havelock North High School excelled and was selected as a Beacon school to share with other teachers. Carol
also gained a Woolf Fisher Fellowship to travel and research technology being taught in the UK and was the recipient of the IPENZ/TENZ Outstanding Teacher of Technology Award in 2003. Over the years many pupils praised Carol for her dedication and being available to help them after hours but she claims that “If you are expecting children to extend themselves they need the time.” In fact Carol gave up three hours every Wednesday, in addition to working full
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time, to help the students with their fashion projects. “Basically I love teaching. I was there at a good time when there were changes happening and I like interacting with teenagers.” Although Carol was initially reluctant to retire she absolutely loves it and is certainly not bored. Her love of fabric continues and while she once enjoyed tailoring, fashion is much more casual these days so there is very little call her expertise in that area. However, since retiring she’s busier than ever and is learning the intricate art of lace making and embroidery. Carol inherited lacemaking bobbins and a cushion from her mother and belongs to the Hawke’s Bay Lacemakers who regularly meet at Havelock North High School. Otane Arts and Crafts offer a wide range of courses in patchwork, crochet, spinning and embroidery, to name but a few interest groups. Carol has taken up embroidery and is experimenting with interesting techniques such as casalguidi which involves raised embroidery stiches. There’s plenty of knowledge and experience and members are always happy to help, she says. There are various courses run for school children during the holidays too. She also has a voluntary position at MTG dressing mannequins for new displays, although most of the time she sews covers to protect the furniture in storage. This involves measuring, taking photos, taking the calico home and washing it in a special solution before making the covers. When she’s not embroidering, making lace and constructing covers for furniture she belongs to Probus and two book clubs. Carol also likes to be able to help out with her ﬁve grandchildren who live in Hawke’s Bay.
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Aotearoa By Chrys Ayley
s we head towards summer and the end of the academic year students of fashion at EIT in Taradale are busily preparing for their ﬁnal fashion show. They are nearing the end of their NZ Diploma in Fashion course which prepares them to enter the industry or go on to study for a Bachelor of Creative Practice.
The EIT Ideas School fashion show will be held on Thursday 29 November and the graduates will show their three piece coordinated collections and the garments they made during a sustainability project. They will also be joined by a number of former students. The collections are modelled on the cat walk and the students are responsible for the total look that includes hair, makeup and accessories. While the collections are under wraps the garments made in the sustainability and ethical practices module are ﬁnished and here we see the Street Style work of Denise Lahood under her brand of 33 ReThreads. The task was to design an outﬁt that was 80% created from pre-worn fabric or garments. It was a tough challenge with only four weeks to complete the project. The tasks included unpicking the garments before re-styling them. The students had to complete research on sustainability, design and illustrate prototypes, prepare technical drawings with measurements and then complete their garments.
Holly Daley models a garment by Designer Coleen Isaako at last year’s show.
Denise started with an interesting assortment of red kilts, a bowling jacket, a pair of red pants, a black and white skirt, a jacket, a t-shirt and various other pieces. The result which can be seen at the show, along with other creative designs, is a stunning ensemble and an excellent example of sustainability in action. Contact Cheryl Downie, the Programme Coordinator and Lecturer in Fashion, regarding tickets. email@example.com
Create the future “I don’t design clothes, I design dreams” - Ralph Lauren The NZ Diploma in Fashion at IDEAschool is a one-year, project-based programme that will give you the skills and knowledge to work in the fashion design industry. You will experience the excitement and dynamic energy of the catwalk, design and create stylish and unique garments and costumes, develop your own products and build a global career in fashion. Study in the creative heart of Hawke’s Bay – IDEAschool.
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Designer Denise Lahood, right, with model Nasheka Thomson.
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