HOW TIM MILLER RESURRECTED A CLASSIC MARYLAND BEER BRAND
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PASSING THE TORCH
You read in last month’s issue that our editor, Katie Willis, was leaving our team to begin the next chapter in her professional life. We appreciate Katie and her influence on the development and launch of Shore Monthly. Katie will always be attached to the soul of Shore Monthly, and we wish her the best in her future. While she will no longer be the magazine’s editor, keep an eye on the magazine for her byline as she may write a story for the magazine from time-to-time.
I’ve always felt change and adversity defines the character of a person, and the same holds true for a business. Our change in editors offers us the opportunity to take our next step as well and I am excited to introduce our new editor, Sarah Ensor. Sarah has a strong journalism background, which includes a stint at the Star Democrat as news editor. We look forward to integrating Sarah’s ideas and energy into Shore Monthly so we can take the next step in our journey. Welcome, Sarah!
David Fike, Publisher
Shore Monthly is a special publication, and I am thrilled to take on the role of editor. As a freelance writer, working with Katie Willis as editor was a rewarding professional experience. Her spirit, intelligence and kindness shine in her work. I am grateful for the opportunity to have worked with her when she was editor, and I am excited now to step into that role in an issue featuring so many fascinating Shore stories. This issue follows crabs from the water to the boat to the table. We pair those stories with the comeback tale of a traditional Maryland beer and the Easton man who resurrected it. I can’t imagine July without steamed crabs and Maryland beer. Cheers!
Sarah Ensor, Editor
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Greg Mueller
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Arden Haley
Caroline J. Phillips
Curtis Martin
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Amelia Blades Steward
Bethany Ziegler
Caroline J. Phillips
Reen Waterman
Sarah Ensor
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In search of Sea Glass
Story by Bethany Ziegler | Photos by Arden Haley
Jessica Paglia is a sea glass hunter. She not only values but collects discarded items and displays them proudly on the mantel of her home.
By the time Paglia picks it up, the glass looks more like treasure than garbage. Sea glass is broken pieces of glass that have been worn down by water, sand and rocks until the shards are smooth and polished—but it doesn’t start out that way. Most green pieces come from old Coca-Cola bottles, gray glass
generally comes from old television sets, and brown and clear (the two most commonly found colors according to Paglia) are usually pieces of beer and milk bottles.
“Some of the places that I hunt are … old farms on the water, and they were actually dumping sites,” Paglia says. “Back in the day, they would throw all their trash or bury it, and then as the water comes in and erodes the land, it’ll fall into the water.”
Hunting for sea glass isn’t a new hobby
for Paglia; it’s been a constant presence for most of her life. Paglia, 36, of Easton, says she first started picking up sea glass as a teenager and has continued the hobby periodically since then. What has changed, however, is the amount of sea glass she’s able to find.
“I started doing it when I started driving,” Paglia said. “I used to go to Claiborne Beach and I would just
pick it up and I loved it, and then I stopped doing it. And then, probably 10 years ago, I got back into it, and noticed how little I’m finding compared to when it was just everywhere.”
For that change, Paglia credits a few things. Events like St. Michaels’ annual Sea Glass Festival have helped grow an appreciation for the beauty of sea glass
Search unexpected places. It’s all about nooks and crannies, Paglia says. In addition to sea glass, she also collects sea-worn marbles, which are usually stuck hidden between larger rocks. She also recommends checking out places that have previously served as trash dumping sites and looking for what’s buried in land that’s eroding.
TIP #1
and widened the appeal of searching for it. The community of people who already hunt sea glass are always welcoming in new members and helping them find their way — Paglia credits a friend named Mary McCarthy for doing just that for her. The hobby is inexpensive and doesn’t take much to get started. And it’s impossible to overstate the impact social media has had on introducing sea glass hunting to wider and diverse audiences.
Paglia doesn’t mind the company, though. She says the combination of learning more about sea glass and pieces being harder to find actually makes it a little more fun.
“I like the excitement of finding something different. Now I throw a lot of stuff back. It used to be anything I found I would keep. But now, (I only keep it) if I find a
really cool shape or an intact bottle or I find a neat color that I don’t have a lot of,” Paglia says. “It’s just really fun to find something that you’ve been looking for, for a long time … it’s like the thrill of the hunt.”
Thrills aside—and there have been a few, including one instance when a large black snake decided to hitch a ride in her kayak while out hunting—looking for sea glass is really about relaxing and unwinding for Paglia. It’s a hobby that takes patience, a hobby she can share with her family, and a hobby that reminds her to appreciate the little things.
“The spirit of sea glass is that you’ve taken something that’s broken and worthless and you’ve made it into a beautiful treasure,” Paglia says. “And I think that’s … good for the human soul.”
S
TIP #2
Pay attention to the tides. Paglia says some of the best places to look are completely covered by water at high tide. She recommends hunting during low tide or a negative low tide, which can happen after storms or during the winter.
The spirit of sea glass is that you’ve taken something that’s broken and worthless and you’ve made it into a beautiful treasure.
TIP #3
Look for a rocky coastline. Paglia says most people assume sea glass is readily available on sandy beaches, but actually rocks and pebbles help shape and collect most pieces. She says to look for places where debris collects on the shore, because that’s where the best things wash up. Be careful though, and make sure it has a surface area you can walk on without slipping and losing your finds.
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TASTE BUDS
Crackin’ Get
It’s hot, it’s humid, it’s crab season. Break out your mallets, spread out your newspaper, and get cracking. We’re sharing tips from the Shore Monthly staff on how to best enjoy your steamed crabs.
Photos by Caroline J. Phillips
Tip #1
“I like to use a mixture of Old Bay and apple cider vinegar for my backfin meat, and melted butter for my claws. The mixture of sour and savory adds some variety so things don’t get stale when you’re on your 6th, 12, or 24th crab.”
— Greg Mueller
Crabs pictured from Blough’s Seafood in Denton
Tip #2
“Real
Eastern Shore natives don’t use a mallet.”
— David Fike
Crabs pictured from Chester River Seafood Company in Rock Hall.
Tip #3
“Pouring the right beer over the crabs makes a big difference. I heard my grandfather always used Schlitz back in the day, but I’m a Miller man — it’s the Champagne of beer.”
— Paul Hagood
Crabs pictured from The Crab Deck in Grasonville
Tip #4
“Baguette shared around the table and torn (not cut, not toasted) cleans hands and palates. Other table musts include Utz potato chips and cold Maryland beer — and slices of local, fresh watermelon for dessert.”
— Sarah Ensor
Crabs pictured from Ocean Odyssey Crab and Beer Garden in Cambridge
Tip #5
“One more thing. The superior seasoning for steamed crabs is J.O. Crab House Spice. It’s a sophisticated bouquet yet doesn’t overwhelm the subtle notes of the pale ale.”
— Paul Hagood
“J.O. seasoning is for the weak! I’m an Old Bay girl and always will be! Make it spicy, and you can never use too much.”
— Betsy Griffin
Crabs pictured from St. Michaels Crab and Steakhouse St. Michaels, MD
Story by Amelia Blades Steward | Photos by Caroline J Phillips
Catching up with musician Bird Dog Wheeler these days means finding him between music gigs and riding his bike or playing a round of golf.
In December 2017, the iconic Eastern Shore musician retired from his job as vice president of sales after 31 years with Kelly Distributors to spend more time doing what he loves most – writing and playing music with his band of over 40 years, Bird Dog and the Road Kings. However, the intertwining of his two professional lives, beer sales and music, have lead him to where he is today.
“I am having as much fun as I have ever had,” he said.
Henry Byrd “Bird Dog” Wheeler was born in Dorchester County and raised in Easton. He was named after his Uncle Henry and his grandfather, both nicknamed Bird Dog, because they raised bird dogs. As a young person, Bird Dog listened to Elvis Presley, playing broom guitar in front of the mirror, as well as truck driving music. His father was a truck driver. But his biggest musical influence, and his favorite band to this day, is the Rolling Stones.
“The Beatles, who were also very popular then, were not gritty enough for me,” Wheeler said. “When I was 15 years old, I hitchhiked to the Baltimore Civic Center to hear the Rolling Stones play.”
After he graduated from high school in 1969, Bird Dog went to umpire school, becoming a minor league baseball umpire. Baseball had been a major part of his life. But music remained important to him and in 1974, he formed “Bird Dog and the Road Kings,” naming the band after a truck driving magazine his dad got called “Road King Magazine.”
The original lineup for Bird Dog and the Road Kings included local musicians Mike Veeck (with whome he once owned a minor league baseball team, the Sioux Falls
Canaries), Allen Whiteley and Rick Hester. Through the years, the band’s members have changed, although the current group has been together since at least the 1980s. Bird Dog, who plays rhythm guitar and sings vocals, and Billy West, who plays lead guitar and sings vocals, have been performing together since 1975. In 1982 they were joined by singer-songwriter and bass guitar player Charlie Briddell. Roger Lewis became the band’s drummer in 1987.
In 1976, Bird Dog and the Road Kings performed on the road from New York City to Austin, Texas, in front of white-collar and blue-collar crowds in concert halls and honky-tonks, deck bars and outdoor arenas, as well as at private parties and weddings.
“Bird Dog” Wheeler strums his guitar in fromt of a memory wall featuring music and Budweiser memorabilia and photos of his family and friends.
With the encouragement of musician Hank Cochran, Bird Dog moved to Nash ville and lived there from 1984 to 1988, making many important connections in the music industry. During this time, he played with such greats as Willie Nelson, George Jones, Waylon Jennings, Charlie Pride, Loretta Lynn, Kris Kristofferson, Merle Hag gard, Tanya Tucker, Marshall Tucker, Hank Cochran, The Greaseman, Mel Tillis and the Seldom Scene.
“We have always played Americana music or Outlaw Country – music from our roots,” Wheeler said. “These are songs about the working man and are more of a mix of clas sic rock and country music.”
Wheeler returned to the Eastern Shore in 1988 when he and his wife were expecting
their third child because he wanted a steadier job.
“I did a music gig with Clyde Kelly of Kelly Distributors and Budweiser,” Wheeler said. “Clyde had bought J.C. Dodd Distributors, where I had worked for two-and-a-half years as a truck driver after high school. Clyde approached me in 1989 about a job and told me ‘The last thing I want you to do is not to play music.’”
Kelly Distributors hired Wheeler to work in the warehouse, and from there he worked his way to vice president of sales.
“It was a great marriage between the beer industry and my music,” Wheeler said. “I was able to use my music as a springboard to promote Kelly Distributors’ products. It also was awesome to have both Kelly Distributors and Budweiser as backers of my music. We were a great team.”
Wheeler also had a hand in keeping the 10-ounce beer in the marketplace in Maryland. This past fall before he retired, Bird Dog worked with Clyde Kelly to lobby Anheuser Busch to keep producing the 10-ounce can sold in Maryland.
The company agreed and the 10-ounce beer, sold as 12-pack Budweiser and Budweiser Light, continues to be a popular package beer among farmers and watermen on the Shore.
Today, Bird Dog and his band members are enjoying their music and camaraderie more than ever. The band plays about 70 gigs throughout the the Baltimore-Washington metropolitan region and from the William Preston Lane Jr. Memorial (Bay) Bridge to the Delaware and Maryland beaches.
“It has been nice to have the continuity of our band over all these years,” Wheeler said. “Not many bands have played together as long as we have.”
Bird Dog and the Road Kings have released seven original albums to date, and their eighth album—a compilation of their greatest hits—is scheduled for release this summer.
He is also enjoying spending time with his four children, Adria, Kevin, Logan and Tater, who range in age from 26 to 36.
“Despite what I have done in music or the beer industry, I want to be remembered most for being a great dad,” Wheeler said.
THE HISTORY OF THE 10-OUNCE BUDWEISER
According to Bird Dog Wheeler, in 1956, Budweiser decided to promote a 10-ounce can to St. Mary’s County through George Guy Distributors in Leonardtown. It was Budweiser’s attempt to build beer sales in Maryland, where they were lagging at the time behind Pabst Blue Ribbon and other Baltimore beers. To entice Marylanders to buy the 10-ounce beer, it was priced the same as the 12-ounce Baltimore beers. The marketing worked, and the 10-ounce beer became popular with farmers and watermen in St. Mary’s County. The beer then became popular on the Mid-Shore, as well as in Calvert and Charles counties on the western shore. Because it is brewed in Houston, Texas, it also became popular among fishermen on the Gulf Coast. S
Smith
I sland
SET SAIL FOR THE SOLITUDE AND SIMPLICITY OF THIS SOMERSET ISLE
Story
and Photos
by Caroline J. Phillips
Ever wondered what it would be like to escape to a remote island? Where everything is simple and there is plenty of peace and quiet?
There is such a place on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, rich in Chesapeake Bay history.
SMITH ISLAND
Just east of Crisfield and situated between the Chesapeake Bay and Tangier Sound, Smith Island is the last inhabited island in Maryland. It’s like stepping back in time – a place without chain stores and traffic lights. With a population of approximately 276 (according to the 2010 U.S. Census), Smith Island is the hub of the
country’s softshell crab industry, the season for which runs from May to September. Working on the water is the main commercial enterprise on Smith Island, where watermen stay busy in their crab boats or tending to their softshell crabs in the crabber shanties.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
At the docks at the end of Route 413 in Crisfield, passenger ferries pick up visitors for the 35-minute trip across the Tangier Sound. There are a few ferries to choose from, most leaving between noon and 12:30 p.m., but check with the captains ahead of time. The best place to find the information is the Visit Smith Island website (visitsmithisland.com/gettinghere), which lists the captains, arrival
and departure times, and ticket prices. For a one-day trip, Smith Island Cruises offers a package for a quick taste of island life. Keep in mind these are passenger ferries, so no cars (although bicycles are allowed on ferries and are also available for rent on the island).
Several housing options are available for multi-day adventures. AirBNB has become popular on the island but perhaps a more authentic experience is offered at Susan’s on Smith Island, a cozy bedand-breakfast with gorgeous views of the water. Susan Evans is an excellent cook, who treats guests to hearty breakfasts to start their day. Evans also will serve dinner. At an extra $25 per guest, this is a great deal.
ON THE ISLAND
Smith Island cake) at the Drum Point Market in Tylerton. It’s also the local grocery store, offering essentials as well small gifts. Also try Bayside Inn Restaurant, which is open May through October, and also offers carry-out.
Smith Island may be most famous for its Smith Island Cake. Named Maryland’s State Dessert in 2008, the Smith Island Cake is an 8- to 10-layer yellow cake with fudgy chocolate icing spread in-between the layers. It’s a tradition that’s tasty and also rich in history. Order a whole cake at Drum Point Market to take home.
This is not the place to go if you are looking for distraction.
It’s the perfect place to put your cell phone away and just enjoy the peace and quiet. { {
Smith Island is not just one big island, but a few little islands. There are three villages –Ewell, Rhodes Point, and Tylerton. Ewell and Rhodes Point sit on the same land, and travel between the two is easy. Tylerton, however, sits off by itself, only accessible by boat, but worth the trip. One thing to expect when touring the island is that it’s not very big and there are few places to frequent. That’s the point of this getaway – to experience a difference pace. There are only a few places to eat, and they are open seasonally. At any time of year, grab some great food (including
THE SIMPLE LIFE
Smith Island is the perfect place to put your cell phone away and enjoy peace and quiet. The wildlife is entertaining enough. Look for cranes, pelicans, and even a wild goat on the nearby, unoccupied island across from Ewell.
For guidance around the island, join a local tour group. Birding groups and kayaking tours are available, and Chesapeake Bay photographer Jay Fleming offers photography workshops that immerse visitors in local culture.
Smith Island is a destination with simplicity in mind. Ride a bike through the serene landscape, taking in all that nature has to offer and the community that embraces a more peaceful lifestyle than the mainland often allows.
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A Wye River masterpiece that through one man’s vision became a reality
Story by Reen Waterman | Photos by Curtis Martin
The owners of this 7,500-square-foot, four-bedroom home on the Wye River dreamed for years of a casually elegant home that drew the beauty of nature inside. Styled after Georgian center hall colonials, the waterfront home is a blend of colonial inspiration combined with modern innovations.
“Because this was our first custom home, we wanted to see
our dreams fulfilled and be fully engaged in the process,” the owners said in a statement.
Selecting an architect and builder
Annapolis architect Chip Bohl has been designing homes since 1976. The owners of this property were introduced to Bohl through friends and immediately knew he was someone they could trust.
“We found Chip to be versatile
and talented. When you give Chip an idea, he runs with it and it turns out spectacular,” according to the owners.
The owners met with Bohl several times in the two months during planning, and once visited their home to see how their surroundings suited them.
During their search for home sites, the owners found the site where their current home now
sits. They had challenges with the then-existing home, which was built in the 1970s. Bohl attended the home inspection and explained that the home was outdated and not properly oriented to take full advantage of the view. The owners agreed to demolish the existing home and build a new home that would achieve their vision.
Chip compiled a list of five top area custom home builders who could best bring his plans to life. Hiring a builder who connects with the client and also works seamlessly with the architect is essential. Chip sent his plans
to these builders and requested bids, which he reviewed with the homeowners. The clients then met with the top three contenders and selected Brad Lundberg of Lundberg Builders because they felt comfortable with Lundberg and his project supervisor, Keith Germershausen.
In his 40 years in business, Lundberg has developed a reputation for clean job sites, respectful workers and attention to detail, qualities that were essential to the owners. They were also impressed by Lundberg’s connection to many quality subcontractors, which set him
apart from some competitors who had lost a number of subcontractors after the economic recession in 2008.
“Choices in materials have grown exponentially,” according to the owners. “Your job is to integrate your personality into the process, make timely decisions, listen, and be direct about what you want.”
Owner involvement is an important part of the homebuilding process, and they relied on Lundberg’s clear communication from the very beginning of the project. To accommodate the owners’ busy work schedules,
Lundberg installed a camera on an 8-foot post to film construction so the owners could watch their home being built. Lundberg and Germershausen hosted weekly progress meetings with the owners, using video calls when the owners were unavailable to meet in person.
CONSIDERING THE ENVIRONMENT
The owners are concerned about being good stewards of the environment.
“Living on the water, every day is a lesson in conservation. You are naturally inspired to preserve,” they said.
The owners selected a geothermal heat pump with a natural gas heat backup, as well as some other technology, but did not fully outfit the home with everything available in anticipation of what will soon be on the market.
“Because we are on the cusp of a new technology platform, we didn’t want to get stuck using what could soon be obsolete,” according to the owners. “We are pre-wired for solar and sound advances and will be ready when the timing is right.”
Lundberg suggested donating materials from the existing home, and the home was dismantled board-by-board and donated to the Loading Dock. Started in 1984 in Baltimore, the Loading Dock is a nonprofit building materials recycling center that annually saves more than 12,000 truckloads of surplus building materials from landfills, and only accepts building materials in usable condition.
People who donate materials receive a tax deduction.
OTHER FEATURES
Some of the owners’ favorite features of the home are what make it unique.
A basement is an unusual feature for a waterfront home, but the poured concrete prevents major leaks. The home is insulated with foam, which offers additional support in the walls and also helps control the temperature indoors. The lift-and-slide glass doors open up the screen porches into expanded interior living space. This feature allows the owners to create an open flow for entertaining, but also allows for more intimate conversation nooks.
Guests can take advantage of the breezes and views from four screened porches. The entry courtyard provides both a historically styled entry as well as an outdoor entertaining space sheltered from the wind.
Lundberg Builders’ sister company, 314 Kitchen Design Studio, honored the owners’ vision for family gatherings and formal entertaining by designing a kitchen with custom-built cabinetry, a spacious butler’s pantry, a second dishwasher in the kitchen and a kitchenette adjoining the media room in the basement.
BUILDING A DREAM
The owners of this property offer tips for others who are hoping to build their own home.
“First, you want someone who cares as much for the product as you do,” they wrote. “Second, no process is perfect. You want
someone who will take responsibility when things go wrong and solve the problem. Third, the more of your personality you involve in the building of your home, the more satisfied you will be. (We know of someone who collected artwork for years in a barn, and had the home built around these pieces.)”
So, as you consider the possibilities your future holds, let your imagination take wing. Start a notebook or binder to capture your thoughts and desires for your dream home. Include articles and photographs from home and design magazines. And then begin assembling your own dream team to turn your aspirations into reality. S
We help youkeeptogether what you’ve workedso hardtoputtogether
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Local Brewer Tim Miller looks to revitalize the beers of Maryland’s past
Story by Sarah Ensor | Photos by Caroline J. Phillips
Tim Miller steps into an old building on the water at Easton Point and cautions care stepping over some old, soft floorboards at the entrance.
It’s an old building, and it is full of memorabilia related to the beer and oil industries. His grandfather, Dewey H. McMahan, bought it from J. McKenney Willis Jr., who had previously given McMahan seed money for his business and offered to share the building with him.
McMahan started an oil distribution business at Easton Point, where barges could pull right up to dock in the deep water. Miller grew up
in the oil business, working at his grandfather’s company after school, and developing an appreciation for vintage advertising, marketing and fuel pumps.
It’s sweltering inside the building at Easton Point, and Miller’s face is damp. He is tall, dark-haired, and affable. He is also a passionate collector of vintage oil and gas memorabilia, which he carefully stores in the building.
Miller was the third generation of his family to run the business, joining after college, and running it until 2001, when someone wanted
to buy it. Miller sold it and went into the real estate business. He is a Realtor with Benson & Mangold in Easton.
He was interested in antiques and old signs. One day in 2002, he saw some vintage beer signs in an antique store.
“I thought, ‘Oh, man, wouldn’t that be cool, to bring back an old beer brand,’” Miller said.
The thought stayed in the back of his mind until 2010, when an advertisement in the Wall Street Journal caught his attention. It said an old brand auction would be held at the Waldorf Astoria New York hotel in New York City. Miller researched what would be sold, and among several beer brands up for bid would be National
Premium, an old Maryland beer originally marketed as the fancy version of National Bohemian.
At the time, Miller knew little about trademarks, so he did not know he was buying only the words, “National Premium Beer.” He learned he had only purchased the incomplete application for the trademark, which he soon finished.
Soon, he was researching old National Premium Beer labels and looking for the original formula.
“I started googling around – I became a professional googler,” Miller said.
A friend of a friend put him in touch with Timothy Kelly of Arbutus, who had worked at multiple breweries, including
Tim Miller is an avid collector of vintage oil company and beer advertising.
Guinness. Kelly connected him with brewer Ray Klimovitz, who helped Miller find the original recipe and connected him to master brewer Jack Ehmann.
Meanwhile, a friend recommended Miller contact the History Channel show “American Pickers,” which is about two men who find treasures from old items and restore them, to check out the items he had left over from his family’s oil business. The show was interested, and the pickers selected some old tools.
“I sold my grandfather’s old pipe wrenches to start a beer business,” Miller said.
An old lacrosse buddy connected Miller to Fordham & Dominion Brewing Company in Dover, Del. After speaking with Jim Lutz, chief executive officer of Fordham & Dominion, he contracted with the company as the brewery and Ehmann as brew master. With seed money, a brewmaster, and a brewery, Miller relaunched National Premium Beer just before Memorial Day in 2012.
“It was the hardest I’ve ever worked in my life. Furious and fast – crazy,” Miller said.
National Premium Beer sold so well upon its release, Miller made back his seed money in a couple of weeks.
“A whole bunch of little angels came down and helped us out,” Miller said, and he started listing who they were: lacrosse buddies, colleagues, brewmasters and more.
As Miller tells the story of National Premium Beer’s resurrection, he is thoughtful, crediting every deed that helped him to the helper with a first and last name.
The building on the property of Miller’s family business now holds memorabilia, but the Town of Easton recently connected the property to water and sewer. Miller hopes that perhaps the property will one day be home to a tasting room or café on the water. S
PROFILES
The nexT GeneraTion of Watermen
Derek Wilson of Easton and Nick Hargrove of Wittman became lifelong friends as children, but fate brought the two together as business partners as adults, working together as watermen on the Chesapeake Bay.
The owners of Wild Divers Oyster Company of Wittman became friends while playing Little League baseball in the Bay Hundred area. Years later, the two became partners in diving for oysters in the winter and crabbing in area creeks and rivers in the summer–taking part in a traditional Eastern Shore career.
Story by Amelia Blades Steward | Photos by Caroline J. Phillips
Wilson, originally from Tilghman, is a fourth-generation waterman. His family has done everything from crabbing and oystering to pound-net fishing and conch fishing in the ocean. He started crab potting with his uncle at a young age. Eventually, he got his own skiff and began crabbing with a trotline in the local creeks in the summer months. For a time, Wilson worked on scallop boats in Ocean City with his cousins and uncle. But his father, who dove for oyster for 18 years, perhaps had the most influence on his life, and he decided to try diving for oysters. It stuck. At age 17, Wilson offered his friend Hargrove a job running his boat while Wilson dove for oysters.
Hargrove took a different path after graduating from high school. He went to a small college in Greenville, N.C., for a year, and decided it wasn’t for him. Wilson recalls
a phone call from Hargrove about how excited he was about his small engine class at college. Hargrove then came home and started diving with Wilson for a year before starting a business called Total Home Performance with his brother Matt. At the time, Wilson was working at a local restaurant in St. Michaels, taking a break from the water.
In 2014, Hargrove bought a boat and asked Wilson if he wanted to work with him again on the water. The two began with oyster diving in the winter, but separated in the summer and fall, with Hargrove crab-potting off Tilghman Island and Hargrove crab-scraping in the southern Chesapeake Bay and soft-crabbing and trot-lining off Tilghman Island and in the Choptank and Miles rivers.
Because Wilson was familiar with local restaurants, the two were able to sell their
Derek Wilson, above, works the water, and (right) displays a nice haul of Maryland blue crabs.
oysters to restauranteurs on the Eastern Shore. In 2016, they decided to get their shellfish shipper license to aid their business sales, washing and boxing the oysters themselves to sell from their boat. Wilson and Hargrove then had an opportunity to renovate Hargrove’s family’s property on Harris Creek in Wittman to process their oysters. The abandoned packing house – once Ray Jones Oyster Packing and Crab Picking House–on Howeth Road was bought by Hargrove’s family in the 1990s but had been left unoccupied. The packing house now serves as home base for Wild Divers Oyster Company where the two wash and shuck about 50 bushels of oysters a day, most of which go
into gallon containers and are sold to area restaurants.
“We also buy anywhere where from 100 to 300 bushels of oysters a day from area watermen,” Hargrove said. “Some we clean and box, but most we sell to a large shucking house in Virginia.”
In 2018, the two got their seafood processing license to increase sales for the company. They now buy oysters, which are trucked to the packing house from about 15 local oystermen. Although there is no oyster tonging on Harris Creek today because it is an oyster sanctuary, the two are looking at developing oyster aquaculture so their oyster business could run 12 months of the year there. They
also hope to get Wild Divers oysters into small local markets and grocery stores in the future.
Wilson, who dives for oysters from three to seven consecutive hours a day, said, “I get about 6,000 oysters a day while diving, but the key is being able to select the best.”
Hargrove, who was taught about oyster diving by Wilson’s father, a master diver, mans the boat while Wilson dives. Hargrove’s job is to watch Wilson carefully, paying attention to his motions and rhythms while he works the bottom to be sure he stays safe and comfortable, while also pulling up the cages and culling the oysters Wilson selects. According to
Wilson, there are more older guys diving for oysters than younger guys today.
“It requires a different skill set than dredging for oysters,” Wilson said. “You need to know what to look for, how to work the bottom, how to use the tide to your advantage, and you need to feel a comfort level under water.”
Equipped with a constant supply of air from the surface, along with hot water generated by the engine and pumped into his wetsuit, Wilson is able to endure the freezing winter waters on public oyster beds in Eastern Bay and in the Miles River. Visibility is important and helps determine where he can dive. Oyster divers dive anywhere from
six to 60 feet, but a depth of 12 to 20 feet is ideal.
The company name, Wild Divers Oysters, reflects the wild oysters the two men collect from the public bottoms. Using this nonintrusive method of oystering allows them to select only the best quality oysters, while not disturbing the surrounding ecosystem. The oysters are then sorted, cleaned and delivered daily for peak freshness.
“We are really getting brand recognition for our oysters,” Hargrove said.
Both men love what they do every day and are proud to be making a living and providing for their families as watermen.
“It’s good money, but it is all
what you put into it,” Wilson said. “We have seen watermen come and go.”
“I love that I am changing as a person,” he said. “I used to enjoy the competitive nature of diving. Now, I am trying to help other people out along the way. This is the only way to preserve this ‘dying industry’ –to help others coming up into it do well. I learned that from my dad.”
Wild Divers oysters are available at Bistro St. Michaels, Theo’s Steaks, Sides and Spirits, Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine, Carpenter Street Saloon, Awful Arthur’s, and Foxy’s Harbor Grille in St. Michaels; the High Spot and Rock Lobster in Cambridge; Mitchum’s Tavern in Trappe; and the Talbot Country Club. S
Becky Berberich, of Stevensville, was inspired by love of cooking and a passion for healthy, plant-based foods to start At the Veginning (https://attheveginning.com/), a blog dedicated to helping people find fun, colorful, vegan recipes, product reviews, and more. When she’s not taste-testing new food ideas and finding unusual produce, she enjoys hiking, reading, and crafting summer cocktails.
Instructions:
Step 1: Drain jackfruit from brine and rinse under water. Pat dry and put into food processor. Pulse for about a minute until fairly chopped. Will resemble flaked crab meat. Empty onto paper towels and sprinkle with kelp seasoning. Place additional paper towels on top and press as much liquid out of jackfruit as possible.
Step 2: Set panko, garbanzo flour and jackfruit aside. Thoroughly mix together remaining ingredients.
Step 3: Add panko, garbanzo flour, and jackfruit to wet ingredients and fold until fairly well incorporated. The panko will begin to absorb some of the liquid, and the mixture should start binding together.
Step 4: In a pan, heat one-half-inch of olive oil over medium heat. Form crab cake mixture into patties and cook for 3 minutes per side or until golden brown. Note: form patties to your liking before placing in oil. They hold together well but can break if pressed during frying.
Chef Beck Berberich
THROUGH THE LENS
Photo by Susan Hale
Photo by Lori Bramble
Photo by Anne Marie Carroll
Photo by Tracey F. Johns
Photo by Patsy Bridges
Photo by Patsy Bridges
Photo by Susan Hale
Photo by Susan Hale
Photo by Royce Ball
Photo by Cindy Steedman
315 High St # 101, Chestertown, MD 21620 (410) 778-9079 www.houstonsdockside.com
CRAB BRACELET Houston’s Dockside Emporium
Wild Divers Oyster Company, founded by Derek Wilson and Nick Hargrove in 2014, takes pride in catching and providing the best quality wild-caught oysters on the bay.
Besides oyster diving in the winter months, Wilson and Hargrove spend summer months trot-lining and using various methods of crabbing to keep their business going year-round.
Follow Wild Divers Oysters Company on Facebook or call 410-310-1821.
Cover photo by Caroline Phillips
Nick Hargrove and Jeff Turner wrangle crabs.
Fireworks, Oxford July3
Fireworks, Oxford July3
Fireworks, Easton July4
Fireworks, Easton July4
TuckahoeSteam &Gas Show,Easton July5-8
TuckahoeSteam &Gas Show,Easton July5-8
Plein AirEaston Competition and Ar ts Festival July15–22
Plein AirEaston Competition and Ar ts Festival July15–22