Page 1


2

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


EDITORIAL

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND

Summer 2018

ALEXANDER KUZNETSOV

Editor-in-Chief

E D I TO R- I N - C H I E F Alexander Kuznetsov +358 400 82 55 70 hello@allaboutlapland.fi

E D I TO R Julia Benzar

CHINESE CONTENT Yiyun Zha

P H OTO S BY Alexander Kuznetsov, Julia Benzar, Rayann Elzein, Harri Tarvainen, Anna Pakkanen, Virpi Mäkilä, advertisers.

C I RC U L AT I O N 50.000 copies ISSN 2343-3981

P R I N T E D BY Forssa Print, Finland, 2018

D I S C OV E R YO U R S U M M E R ! SUMMER IN LAPLAND is rather short. It might even feel like it’s only a little break between the winters! There’s not a minute to waste. I like to spend my summers wandering on top of the fells and in pristine forests. I admire the Midnight Sun and capture its magical passage over the horizon with my camera. In end-July, Lapland’s nature starts giving us its wonderful gifts: cloudberries and wild blueberries. I pick as much of them as my freezer can fit: they will be a great treat during the dark winter months! In end-August, the northern lights are visible again. I use every opportunity to capture their dance. September is the best time for hiking: the mosquito season is over, but the beauty of the golden autumn is just starting to kick in.

In summer, we also like to enjoy some water activities. Every real Finn wants to escape to the summer cottage on a lakeshore and go swimming, fishing or just to relax. By the way, you too can go out for canoeing excursions, guided fishing trips, or even rafting adventures. And what a pleasure it is to jump into the cool water after the warm Finnish Sauna! Lapland’s national parks with their amazing trails and the world’s cleanest air are waiting for you. Pack your backpack and go out for a hike! Summer in Lapland is full of discoveries. Here everyone will find something fun to do, from exploring the great outdoors, to meeting with Santa. This magazine offers many tips on how to enjoy summer on and above the Arctic Circle. I hope you will experience Lapland to the fullest!

D I G I TA L V E R S I O N issuu.com/allaboutlapland

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND www.allaboutlapland.fi Facebook: fb.com/allaboutlapland Twitter: @allaboutlapland Instagram: @allaboutlapland VK.com/allaboutlapland Use #allaboutlapland tag for repost!

Midnight Sun

River Activities

Golden Autumn

D I S T R I B U T I O N ROVANIEMI: Rovaniemi Tourist Office, Rovaniemi Airport, Arktikum, Science Centre Pilke, Korundi House of Culture, Shopping Centres Revontuli, Rinteenkulma & Sampokeskus, Cafe&Bar 21, Sokos Hotel Vaakuna, Cumulus Resort Pohjanhovi, Lapland Hotel Sky Ounasvaara, Hotel Aakenus, Prisma Rovaniemi, HopLop & Rollo Halli, Rova-Motelli. SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE: Santa Claus Office, Santa Claus Holiday Village, Santa Claus Post Office, Arctic Circle Information. RANUA: Wildlife Park. LEVI: S-Market Levi, Break Sokos Hotel Levi, Levi Tourist Office. KITTILÄ: Hotel Kittilä. YLLÄS: Jounin Kauppa, 7 Fells Hostel, Visitor Centre Kellokas, Lapland Hotels Saaga. PYHÄ: Ski-Inn Hotel Pyhätunturi, Visitor Centre Naava. LUOSTO: Santa’s Hotel Aurora, Lapland Hotel Luosto, Little Mine Shop. SAARISELKÄ: Holiday Club Saariselkä, Santa’s Hotel Tunturi. IVALO: Hotel Ivalo, Aurora Village, Rajajooseppi border crossing. KEMIJÄRVI: ABC! station. SALLA: S-Market Salla, Hotel Takka Valkea, Holiday Club Salla, Kelloselkä border crossing. RUKA: Ruka Tourist Info, Shopping Centre Kumpare, Scandic Rukahovi. KUUSAMO: Prisma Kuusamo, Holiday Club Kuusamo, Kuusamo Tourist Info. KEMI: Kemi Airport, Kemi Snow Castle. OULU: Oulu Tourist Office, Nallikari Camping. KAJAANI: Vartius border crossing.


FIRST BY NATURE.

Biking

PICK OF THE SEASON

Ylläs became Finland’s most versatile year-round biking destination in summer 2017, when the trails in PallasYllästunturi National Park were opened for bikers. The network of biking trails that starts from Ylläs offers terrain for bikers of all ages and skill levels.

Eight seasons. Seven fells. Two villages. One national park with the world’s cleanest air. Explore and discover throughout the year in Ylläs, Lapland, Finland.

www.yllas.fi


N E WS

Summer 2018

ARCTIC RAILWAY RUKA SKI RESORT EXPANDS RANUA BUILDS ARCTIC FOX IGLOOS THE ROYAL RACES 2018 IN ROVANIEMI

6 8 9 10

34

TIPS WILDEST HERBS COME FROM THE NORTH! FOREST GOODNESS FROM ARCTIC SUPERFOODS EDUCATION IN LAPLAND TAIGAKORU JEWELLERY MARTTIINI FACTORY TURNS 90 YEARS GIFTS FROM FINLAND ROVANIEMI MAP RAKAS RESTAURANT ROVANIEMI FOODIE TIPS 7 X FAMILY FUN KORUNDI HOUSE OF CULTURE ARKTIKUM & PILKE ENJOYING SUMMER SANTA’S WAY SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE THE ISLAND OF HAILUOTO THE AMETHYST MINE HOOKED ON TRAIL RUNNING

12 13 14 16 18 20 23 24 25 28 32 33 34 36 38 39 40

28

44

Л Е ТО 20 1 8 ПОЛЕЗНАЯ ИНФОРМАЦИЯ ХОСТЕЛ «НЕ КАК У ВСЕХ» ОБРАЗОВАНИЕ В ФИНЛЯНДИИ ИЗ КАЗАХСТАНА В ЛАПЛАНДИЮ ДЕТСКИЙ МИР АМЕТИСТОВЫЙ РУДНИК

EXPERIENCES

ОРАНЖЕВАЯ ГОРКА

SECRETS OF THE HORN KAFFE & HARRI: THE PERFECT DYNAMIC DUO ALONE WITH YOUR HEAD IN PYHÄ YLLÄS, THE OUTDOOR HEAVEN THE AURORA ESTATE IN YLLÄS ENCHANTED BY LEVI LAPLAND, PHOTOGRAPHER’S PARADISE

42 44 48 50 52 54 56

ЛАПЛАНДСКИЕ СУВЕНИРЫ КУЛЬТУРА РОВАНИЕМИ РЕСТОРАНЫ РОВАНИЕМИ МАГИЯ ШАМАНСКОГО БУБНА ДЕРЕВНЯ САНТА КЛАУСА

目录 中文,一往而情深 在北极圈学商 拉普兰有什么好玩的 灿烂的拉普兰夏天 芬兰旅行须知 罗瓦涅米文化之旅

42

56

59 61 62 63 64 65 66 68 69 70 72 73

欢迎来到冰雪之境 倏忽一夏 @ 罗瓦涅米 拉普兰纪念品 圣诞老人的家乡

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

74 77 78 80 83 84 85 86 89 90 5


NEWS IN LAPLAND | ARCTIC RAILWAY

R AYA N N E L Z E I N

The Sami reindeer herder Petri Mattus would be one of the reindeer herders affected by the Arctic Railway.

Finland plans to build the Arctic railway through Sami homelands In March 2018, the Finnish Ministry of Transport and Communications announced a plan to build an Arctic railway line through the Inari region to Kirkenes, Norway. Inari is the centre of Finnish Sami culture and the railway would bring significant changes to the livelihoods of the residents. Currently, the terminal station of the line is located at the city of Rovaniemi. The Arctic Railway would link Rovaniemi with the Norwegian port of Kirkenes and give Finland access to ice-free Arctic Ocean. With the Arctic Railway, Finland aims to improve its logistical position and establish a link to the Northeast Passage. The line could become an attractive and faster shipping route between Europe and Asia in the near future, as the Arctic ice pack keeps melting due to the climate change. The Ministry investigated several railway line options, and the route from Rovaniemi to Kirkenes was chosen for future development. Other alternatives were Kiruna–Narvik and Kolari–Narvik that would have passed through Sweden, the Kolari-Tromsø line that would have led to Norway, and the Kemijärvi–Salla– Murmansk line that would have led to Russia. 6

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

A report by Ramboll Finland Ltd, commissioned by the Ministry, states that all the Arctic Railway alternatives are equally unprofitable. The study estimates that the transport potential for the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes route would mainly consist of phosphate and iron ore from the Sokli mine in Savukoski, copper and nickel ore from the Kevitsa mine, raw timber, and some Norwegian transports. In regard to passenger traffic, the report concludes that the most significant potential would only concern the Rovaniemi-Sodankylä part of the line (130 km). Running passenger traffic between Rovaniemi and Kirkenes would not be commercially viable

due to the seasonal nature of tourism. However, the investment costs for the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line would be skyhigh. The report says that the estimated construction costs of the 465-km railway line are 2,063 million euros for Finland and 856 million euros for Norway. Despite the negative profitability estimates, there is great support for the Arctic Railway among the Finnish officials and politicians. In her press release, Anne Berner, the Minister of Transport and Communications, says that Finland must be part of the global logistical network. According to Minister Berner, the Arctic Railway is the most important project to achieve this. During the Arctic


NEWS IN LAPLAND | ARCTIC RAILWAY

The Arctic Railway would pass in the proximity of Lake Inarijärvi which is renowned for its beautiful views.

Forum 2018 event in Helsinki, the former Finnish Prime Minister Matti Vanhanen, currently the Chair of the Foreign Affairs Committee, mentioned that the construction of the Arctic Railway is a “question of credibility” for the country. The Ministry’s decision to pursue the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line came as a surprise for both the reindeer herders and the Sami community. In January 2018, the

area is the reason why many tourists come to Inari. Moreover, she thinks that the railway would endanger the existence of the entire Sami culture and reindeer herding. “The Arctic Railway is a great threat to the Sami culture, because it puts the traditional Sami livelihoods in jeopardy”, says Pirita. “The Sami culture is based on proximity with nature. If the traditional

The Arctic Railway is a great threat to the Sami culture, because it puts the traditional Sami livelihoods in jeopardy. Ministry did negotiate on the matter with the Sami Parliament, the representative self-government body of the Sami in Finland. Tiina Sanila-Aikio, President of the Sami Parliament, has publicly stated that the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line was not specifically discussed and that the Sami Parliament was led to believe that none of the railway line options were economically viable or realistic to build. Since the decision was announced, the Sami community has been rather vocal in their opposition of the Arctic Railway. According to Pirita Näkkäläjärvi, the Sami Person of the Year 2017 and spokesperson for the Sami people, the RovaniemiKirkenes decision was a bucket of cold water on the Sami community. “The Arctic Railway would contribute to climate change”, says Pirita. “There will be more pressure for drilling and searching for natural resources in the Arctic region. The Arctic Railway would cut right through the Sami homelands and introduce heavy infrastructure to the vulnerable area near Lake Inarijärvi.” Pirita Näkkäläjärvi was born near Lake Inarijärvi. She believes that the Arctic Railway would damage tourism, an important livelihood for the local people, because the quietness and nature of the

livelihoods of reindeer herding and fishing remain strong, it means that the Sami culture and language will also flourish”. Reindeer husbandry has been practised in Lapland for thousands of years. The reindeer population varies between 220,000 and 290,000, depending on the time of the year. Most of the reindeer can roam free through the grazing lands. Anne Ollila, Executive Director of Reindeer Herders’ Association, says that the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line would be most damaging to reindeer herding. “Statements were requested from us during the years when this matter was under investigation. However, they were not really taken into consideration”, says Anne Ollila. “The natural reindeer migration routes between summer and winter pastures would be cut off. We also fear that a large number of reindeer will end up being killed by the trains”, says Ollila. Annually, around 300 reindeer get run over by trains on the existing tracks in southern Lapland. The Arctic Railway would run through areas where the reindeer population is significant, and thousands of animals could be killed. One way to prevent this is to build fences around the track, but according to Anne

Ollila, this would cut off the reindeer migratory routes and the losses would still be significant. Compensation for killed reindeer is paid by the state, but, according to Anne, the sum is not big enough to compensate for the financial losses. In her opinion, reindeer should not end up getting killed this way at all. The Sami reindeer herder Petri Mattus would be one of the reindeer herders affected by the Arctic Railway in the Inari region. He herds his reindeer in the village of Menesjärvi, continuing the centuriesold family tradition. He also organises reindeer activities for tourists, giving them an insight into reindeer herding. Petri agrees with Anne Ollila in that the railway would contribute to reindeer deaths and fragment their grazing pastures. For him, it is difficult to understand the reasons behind the construction of the railway: “I understood that the railway was estimated to be unprofitable”, says Mattus. ”If the ships were able to sail through the Northeast Passage, why would they stop at Kirkenes to offload goods onto the railway when they could sail all the way from Asia to Europe?” Petri Mattus feels that the Arctic Railway project is being pushed ahead by force. He suspects that one of the reasons behind the railway is the desire to introduce mining industry to Northern Lapland.

“Mining would mean that there is less land that can be used for reindeer herding, or for tourism. Tourism has been growing fast lately, and we have just had a very good season”. The Ministry of Transport and Communications has announced that a new committee will be formed to investigate the schedule and future development stages of the Arctic Railway. Invitations to participate in the committee will be extended to the Sami Parliament, the Regional Council of Lapland, reindeer herders,   the representatives of the Skolt Sami Village Council, and the Finnish Association for Nature Conservation. The committee will assemble for the first time in May 2018 and its work will be finished on 14 December 2018. Anne Ollila and Pirita Näkkäläjärvi hope that this time the voices of the Sami people and reindeer herders will be heard. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

7


NEWS IN FINLAND | KUUSAMO

New scenic Gondola lift will bring visitors from RukaVillage to RukaValley in 6 minutes, all year round.

Ruka Ski Resort expands with new RukaValley village & scenic gondola

R

uka Ski Resort in Kuusamo, Finland is known for its amazing possibilities for winter sports. The skiing season lasts here over 200 days from October to May. Tourism is growing well in the region. International overnight stays in Kuusamo increased by 30 % in 2017 and similar growth is expected in 2018. Beautiful nature, fresh air, and nordic experiences are just some of the many reasons to visit Ruka. It is no wonder that World Ski Awards chose Ruka as the Finland’s best ski resort in 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016. Western side of Ruka is occupied by the predestrian RukaVillage with hotels and restaurants. It was constructed as a part of a master plan conceived 10 years ago. Construction of the second pedestrian village RukaValley will begin in May 2018. To link the two villages a new Village-2Valley scenic gondola will be constructed. The RukaValley village will be situated between the ski slopes and Valtavaara nature reserve. The slopes, hiking and skiing trails start literally by the door. RukaValley will create 1.700 new ski-in ski-out bed places. 400 of them will be placed to the new RukaValley hotel. 8

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Western side of Ruka is occupied by pedestrian RukaVillage with hotels and restaurants.

Transitioning from RukaVillage to RukaValley will be easy without a car when the new gondola is put to use in Fall 2018. The new scenic gondola traversing across the fell from RukaVillage to RukaValley will take skiers, pedestrians and bikers across the top in 6 minutes, all year round. In addition to the scenic gondola, Ruka ski resort is building a new 6-seater VillageExpress chairlift to the front slopes of RukaVillage. 4-seater chairlift SaaruaExpress and the renewed Family Park in the heart of RukaValley opened in 2017. These improvements will increase the resort’s ski lift capacity by over 20%.

Hotel RukaValley will be the most high-class Ski-Inn location in Ruka with 80 rooms and 40 apartments. The hotel will be constructed with high quality materials such as Northern wood. Corner apartments will have outdoor hot tubs giving a touch of luxury. Two restaurants with lobby bars, rental store, activity program services and a minimarket will be situated right next to the hotel reception. Location of Hotel RukaValley is the best in the village, right beside the gondola and Family Park. The new hotel will open for Christmas 2019. More info: www.ruka.fi/en/valley


NEWS IN LAPLAND | RANUA

Luxurious Arctic Fox igloos will be placed on the shore of Lake Ranuanjärvi facing the Northern horizon.

Ranua builds luxurious Arctic Fox Igloo Village for Aurora viewing

R

anua is a small municipality with under 4,000 inhabitants in Southern Lapland, 80 kilometres south from Rovaniemi. The town’s most famous attraction is the Wildlife Park, which is home to over 50 species of Arctic animals such as the polar bear and brown bear, the wolf, the wolverine, and owls. Every year, the Ranua Wildlife Park attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world. With the rapidly growing tourism, there is demand for high-quality accommodation in Lapland. Ranua has met this demand by opening Holiday Village Gulo Gulo with 20 comfortable timber cottages right beside the Wildlife Park. Next, the municipality will take a bold step and start the construction of a new luxurious Arctic Fox Igloo Village on the shore of Lake Ranuanjärvi. The igloos will have transparent glass walls and roofs that allow the guests to be completely immersed in nature. The inspiration for the name of the igloo village comes from an ancient Finnish folktale. According to the tale, the Northern Lights are

created when the Arctic fox swipes the side of a fell with its tail, leaving a trail of colourful sparks in the sky. Facing the northern horizon and away from the city lights, the igloos will indeed offer a great opportunity for admiring the magical dance of the Auroras. The Northern Lights can be seen in the Lapland sky over a period of 8 months, from late August until late April, on almost 50% of all clear nights. Autumn and spring are the best seasons for spotting the Auroras, as then their activity is at its highest. The igloos will be lavishly equipped, each featuring a bedroom with glass walls, a kitchenette, toilet, and shower. In addition, every igloo will include a private Finnish sauna. The sauna is a local tradition, a natural way for the local people to relax and get warm during the cold winter. With this new form of accommodation, Ranua will be able to guarantee an even more luxurious stay for people visiting the exotic land of the Lapps. The igloos will open on 1 December 2018, but they are already available for booking.

The igloos will be lavishly equipped, each featuring a bedroom with glass walls, a kitchenette, toilet, shower and sauna.

More info & Booking: info@arcticfoxigloos.fi www.arcticfoxigloos.com

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

9


NEWS IN LAPLAND | ROVANIEMI

Royal Races were previously held in Rovaniemi in 2004 at the Mäntyvaara trotting tracks.

Rovaniemi to host the biggest event in its history, The Royal Races 2018

IN SUMMER 2018, Rovaniemi will host the biggest outdoor event in its history, The Harness Race for Finnhorse stallions and mares. Held since 1924, “The Royal Races” (or Kuninkuusravit in Finnish) is the official Finnish National Championship contest for Finnhorses. Since 2004, this is the second time that the city of Rovaniemi has been selected to host this prestigious race. Harness racing is huge in Finland. There are over 600 meetings organised annually, attracting hundreds of thousands of spectators. Horse betting is also popular with over €200 million annual turnover. Finnhorse is the official national horse breed of Finland. Today, approximately 2,000 Finnhorses are in training, and 3,000 compete in harness racing in Finland. Owning a Finnhorse is considered prestigious but expensive. The training and travelling expenses might rise up to €15,000–20,000 per year. However, top horses have been known to earn thousands if not millions of euros during their careers. Only those Finnhorses that have shown good performance in the races of 2018 will be invited to compete for the titles of Ravikuningas (“Trotting King”) and Ravikuningatar (“Trotting Queen”). Stallions and mares compete in separate divisions. Each competition day will hold 13 races featuring over 350 horses in total. In order to win, the horse must achieve the best combined time in three races

10

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

that will be held over the course of two days. This presents a great challenge to the endurance of the horses, particularly the last race of 3100 metres. The total prize money paid out in the event is over €50,000, topping any prizes ever paid out in a Royal Race competition. In addition to the main event, there will be a competition for horses from all around Northern Scandinavia, Sweden and Norway. According to Event Manager Tommi Hinno, The Royal Race 2018 will be the biggest outdoor event ever experienced in Rovaniemi. “We are expecting 50,000–60,000 spectators for the event. I doubt that the city will ever see an event bigger than this.” The previous event record was set in Rovaniemi in 2004, when over 47,000 spectators gathered for the first ever Royal Races held in the capital of Lapland. Such large-scale events often attract VIPs, national celebrities, and spectators from all over the country and abroad. During an event of this magnitude, the hotels and Airbnbs of the city will certainly be booked solid, and the local shops will enjoy a busy business weekend. The Royal Races 2018 will take place on the weekend of 28-29 July at Mäntyvaara trotting track, situated 7 km from the city centre. The spectator stand, capable of hosting 30,000 spectators, is a large amphitheatre with a great view over the track. The guests will be catered by

Finnhorse is the official national breed of Finland.

several restaurants with a good selection of Lapland-inspired food. Non-stop shuttle buses will run between the city centre and Mäntyvaara trotting track. A single-trip ticket costs €5. Private vehicles are not allowed into the area, but taxis will take you to the destination. The races will start at noon on both days. The admittance for Saturday is €33 and for Sunday €38, and tickets can be purchased at the track. Advance tickets cost €5 less and can be purchased from ticketmaster.fi until Thursday 26 July.


LAPLAND NEWS

TOURIST INFORMATION | SAFARI BOOKINGS | SOUVENIRS | FREE INTERNET ACCESS Rovaniemi Tourist Information Lordi’s Square, Maakuntakatu 29–31 Tel. +358 16 346 270, +358 40 829 0676 info@visitrovaniemi.fi

SH AR E Y O UR EXPER I EN CE! /visitrovaniemi.fi

@visitrovaniemi #visitrovaniemi

WWW.VISITROVANIEMI.FI

@visitrovaniemi #rovaniemi

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

11


T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: TUIJA KAUPPINEN

Tuija’s company Arctic Warriors makes 100 % natural superfood products from the pure and powerful Arctic herbs. They are either handpicked from the forest or grown by the local farmers. Tuija’s mission is to make Lapland’s high quality ingredients known worldwide. www.arcticwarriors.fi

arcticwarriors

Wildest herbs come from the north! LOCAL OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST & SUPERFOOD ENTREPRENEUR TUIJA KAUPPINEN SHARES HER PASSION ABOUT WILD LAPPISH HERBS AND GIVES A FEW TIPS ON HOW TO USE THEM.

A

12

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

YO U

E AV

S

s much as I love winter, the increasing daylight of spring and the nightless nights of summer make me hyper. I just want to jump into my canoe and enjoy the newborn nature filled with all shades and scents of green. I fill my lungs with the purest air in the world and exhale the tensions out of my body. Summer in Lapland is short but very intense. The continuous daylight allows the plants to grow 24/7, which makes them exceptionally nutritious. The birch leaves are the very first spring treats. The new light green leaves, looking like mouse’s ears, take only a few days to unfold. I park my canoe on the shore, pick a couple of leaves and eat them raw. I can feel an immediate energy burst in my body. The daily dosage of vitamin C is easily filled. My green “smoothie” in the wild also includes spruce sprouts. Similar to birch leaves, spruce sprouts are the new growth of spruce, abundant with vitamin C and antioxidants. I pick a few and put them straight into my mouth. They would make for an excellent syrup, but to pick more of them I would need the landowner’s permission. When I move my nose from the trees down to the ground, I find ingredients for a lunch salad: fireweed sprouts! The 10-15 centimeter long sprouts have an intense green colour and a mild aroma which, in my opinion, wins asparagus 6-0. Another little green creature is pushing up from the ground. Nettle makes for a tasty afternoon tea. If there is one herb that you could bring with you to a deserted island, nettle would definitely be it! Nettle has more iron than spinach, more vitamin

NG

SP

B I RC H L E

RU C

E S P RO

UT

C than an orange and more calcium than milk. It makes your blood strong, and skin and hair shine. Just don’t eat this stinging herb without cooking. On the next canoeing excursion through one of the wilderness areas in northern Lapland I come across true Arctic herbs. Angelica Archangelica, native herb of Lapland and the holy herb for the Sami people, grows on the banks of rivers and streams. It is easy to spot from a canoe as the herb may grow as tall as a man. The whole herb is edible, but this time I only take a few seeds. They are efficient cough drops with antibacterial properties.

S

Roseroot is a great performance booster.

NETTLE

As a nice change to canoeing, I take a little hike to the fells. My eye sees a real treasure: Rhodiola rosea, also known as the roseroot. It has beautiful flowers and a rosy smell but it is not related to roses. I pick a few sprouts and enjoy them on my way down. There is no greater performance booster!

Explore the amazing herb products made by Tuija’s company: www.arcticwarriors.fi R O S E R O OT


ADVERTISEMENT Jari Kurtti, a.k.a. “The

Flavour Master”

r berry snack ba Every Wild Blue s. ie rr be ue bl ild contains 60 w

FO R E S T G O O D N E S S by Arctic Superfoods

CHEF JARI KURTTI started his Arctic Superfoods company in 2016 when he noticed a huge gap in the market for Nordic superfoods. Jari’s company aims at bringing the healthy benefits of Lappish berries and herbs to the consumers. Berries grow naturally in the pristine forests of Lapland. Some of them are considered superfoods as they are rich with vitamins and antioxidants.

Each Arctic Superfoods snack bar is produced in Finland and is packed to the brim with these local ingredients. “Every wild blueberry snack bar contains 60 blueberries”, says Jari, who is also known as “The Flavour Master”. The snack bars come in various flavours: Wild Blueberry & Birch Leaf; Lingonberry, Cranberry & Nettle; and Sea Buckthorn & Spruce Sprout. They are free of gluten, dairy or added sugar. The company’s latest product is the Wild Blueberry & Dark Chocolate snack

bar. Containing 38 blueberries, it is a true flavour bomb! Snack bars are a great companion during travelling and sports activities. They will give you that much needed energy boost in the middle of your hike in the fells, biking trip in the forest, or even a coffee break at the office. The snack bars are available at the numerous shops around Lapland, listed below. They are also delivered worldwide through the online Ninja Store. www.nordicninjastore.com

G E T YO U R S N AC K BA R S F R O M : ROVANIEMI: K-supermarket Rinteenkulma, Cafe & Bar 21, Arktikum, Korundi, Pilke, Sampo Pharmacy, Arctic Design Shop, Choco Deli, Mandragora. SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE: Santa Claus Office, Santa Claus Holiday Village, Cafe & Restaurant Sirmakko. LEVI: Levimarket, S-market Levi, Hotel Hullu Poro, Hotel Panorama, Lapland Hotels Sirkantähti. KITTILÄ: K-supermarket Kittilä, S-market, Herkkutupa, Hotel Kittilä, Kittilä Airport. YLLÄS: Jounin Kauppa, Eelin Kauppa, Visitor Centre Kellokas, Lapland Hotels Saaga. PYHÄ: K-market Pyhäntähti, Café Loimu, Restaurant Huttu-Uula. LUOSTO: Lapland Hotels Luostotunturi. SALLA: Salla Ski Resort. KUUSAMO: Oulanka Visitor Centre. SAARISELKÄ: Lapland Hotels Saariselkä. INARI: Siida Shop. SODANKYLÄ: K-market Sodankylä, K-supermarket Pohjantähti. MUONIO: Pallastunturi Visitor Centre, Hotel Harriniva, Lapland Hotels Olos. W W W. A R C T I C S U P E R F O O D S . C O M ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER SUMMER2018 2018

13


LAPLAND TIPS | EDUCATION

Marcelo Souza de Araujo studies Applied Visual Arts at the University of Lapland.

From the heat of Brazil to the coolness of Lapland MARCELO SOUZA DE ARAUJO first came to Lapland in 2012 to do exchange studies. Back home in Rio de Janeiro, while studying digital media, he had discovered an opportunity to experience something different. During his exchange year in Rovaniemi, he found freedom, peace, and his future wife. A few years later, he decided to come back to Lapland to complete his Master’s degree. In January 2017, Marcelo applied to the University of Lapland. He sent the required documentation online via the Studyinfo portal and submitted a portfolio with his best works. In March 2017, he was selected for a Skype interview with university teachers and in May 2017, he found out that he had been accepted.

When Marcelo arrived in Rovaniemi in September 2017, he was met by a tutor who helped the arriving students to get the keys to their student apartments. In Rovaniemi, students can apply for affordable student accommodation from Domus Arctica Foundation. Marcelo’s major is Applied Visual Arts in the Arctic Art and Design program. The program provides training for professionals in creative industries, such as graphic designers. According to Marcelo, studying in Finland is more efficient than in Brazil. “Studying in Brazil is very different. You have to be in school for the whole day and you don’t have much freedom or time to do anything else. Here, you are free to

choose your own courses and decide on your study schedule”, says Marcelo. The cool climate in Lapland is quite different from the heat of Brazil, but it offers some unique experiences. Marcelo remembers his visit to the Finnish sauna and a swim in a frozen lake afterwards. He finds dark Lappish winters challenging, but suggests a good way to overcome their effects: regular sports exercises. At the university, Marcelo has an opportunity to take part in interesting courses, workshops and projects. “We are helping a hotel in Pasmajärvi village with their marketing. We create promotional videos for them”, he says. There are some courses that are quite unique to Lapland. “I took a course in snow sculpture at Kemi Snow Castle. We also did cultural exchange with the Sami people, and learned about their cultural heritage and way of life. You don’t get to experience this in other universities”, says Marcelo. Rovaniemi has two universities with degrees taught in English. The University of Lapland offers Master’s degree studies in Arctic Art and Design; Media Education; Northern Tourism; and Tourism, Culture and International Management. Lapland University of Applied Sciences offers Bachelor’s degree studies in Business Information Technology; International Business; Nursin; and Tourism. If you are coming from outside the EU or EFTA, you will have to pay tuition fees, but you may also be eligible for a scholarship. The next application period for English programs starts in December 2018. If you want to ask Marcelo about studying in Rovaniemi, you can contact him at studentambassadors@ulapland.fi. More info about education in Finland: www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.

. y p p a H s ’ t I It’s one of the happiest places IN THE WORLD. University of Lapland is ranked 1ST IN HAPPINES in Finland (ISB 2017).

14

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

STU DY OPPORTU NITIES ABOVE OR DINARY. W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI


ROYAL RACES ROVANIEMI 28–29.7.2018 MÄNTYVAARA RACE TRACK

“The biggest event in Rovaniemi history” ADVANCE TICKETS FROM TICKETMASTER.FI: SAT 28.7 – 28€, SUN 29.7 – 33€, TWO DAYS – 53€. TICKETS FROM THE DOOR: SAT 28.7 – 33€, SUN 29.7 – 38€, TWO DAYS – 64€. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 WWW.KUNINKUUSRAVIT.FI

15


LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN

TA I G A KO R U J E W E L L E RY

Endlessly inspired by the Arctic wilderness SAMI VIITASAARI is one of the designers at Taigakoru jewellery workshop. Taigakoru is famous for its natureinspired jewellery. The company still manufactures 100% of its products in Rovaniemi. Sami was born in the city of Nokia in Southern Finland. He moved to Rovaniemi in the mid-90s and attended a design school for 4.5 years. As a part of his education, he had a course in jewellery design taught by Juha Janger, the founder of Taigakoru. After completing his studies, Sami moved to the city of Oulu and started to work for the famous Nokia mobile phone company. He was a lead designer in several mobile phone projects. Although it was years before the demise of the company, Sami knows the reasons behind it. “Nokia did not follow the trends of the time and got smashed by other tech giants”, says Sami. After 6 years of intensive work with mobile phones, Sami felt he was slipping into a burn-out and was striving for a change. In 2006, he moved back to Rovaniemi with his family. That’s when he again crossed paths with Juha Janger, the head of Taigakoru. “Juha saw potential in my 3D and digital skills and invited me to work for him”, says Sami. The transition from mobile phones to jewellery went surprisingly smooth. “The software for designing both jewellery and mobile phones is very similar. They are also of relatively same size, and possess similar texture”, says Sami. His work integrates seamlessly with the work of the four goldsmiths at Taigakoru. He often starts his design process by sketching something with a pen on a sheet of paper. The sketching phase may last for days or weeks, starting from the shape of an object and continuing by adding details into it over the course of several sessions. Then, Sami recreates his sketch

16

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

with the 3D software. The 3D drawing is sent to the wax milling machine, which produces a real-size wax model of a piece of jewellery. They use it to cast the frame of the piece from precious metals. Next, it is up to the goldsmiths to polish the frame, and attach gem stones to the piece. With this technique, imagination is the only limit for the design of the piece of jewellery. Sami, however, strives for certain minimalistic aesthetics in his work. “Simplicity is one of the visual features that sets Finnish design apart”, says Sami. According to Sami, the Lappish nature has a strong influence on Taigakoru’s products. Sami’s recent works for Taigakoru include the animal series with faces of the bear and wolf, the Snow Queen series depicting snowflakes, and a series based on Lappish berries with red agate and amethyst stones. To honour Finland’s 100th independence, he created a special SiniSielu (Bluesoul) pendant which depicts Finland’s national bird, the whooper swan. Some of Taigakoru’s most popular products are wedding rings with gold nuggets found in Lapland. Some rings are produced in a series, but there are many that are tailor-made. 3D technologies make the process faster and very precise. “Gold nugget rings are the combined result of Juha Janger’s and my expertise. I start the design process and send drafts of the rings to our clients. The designs are then finalized and polished by Juha”. In his spare time, Sami does other design work. Currently, he is working on a classic Finnish “puukko” knife. He also plays guitar in a death metal band called Lubricant who has recently been revived after 22 years of inactivity. Finland, after all, has the highest ratio of metal bands per capita in the world! You can follow Sami on Instagram @samiviitasaari.

TA I GA KO RU SHOPS Rinteenkulma shopping centre, Koskikatu 25, Rovaniemi. Swarovski shop at Santa Claus Village. Online shop:

www.taigakoru.eu


EASY SHOPPING Rinteenkulma is Lapland’s largest shopping centre. Situated right in Rovaniemi centre, it offers a wide range of stores from international fashion to the Finnish design brands. www.rinteenkulma.fi Ecc o

M

ari

• K-Supermarket – food & household goods • Clas Ohlson – multimedia, electrical and hardware • Alko State Liquor Store

ADDRESS: Koskikatu 25, Rovaniemi

FINNISH DESIGN

• Marimekko • Marttiini knives • Taigakoru factory shop • Pulkkinen watch shop • Timanttiset jewellery • Kultajousi jewellery

OPENING HOURS OF SHOPS: Mon-Fri 10–18, Sat 10–17, Sun 11–16

Kontti full of good Kontti is a second hand operated by the Finnish Red Cross.

Second Hand Kontti Teollisuustie 13, 96320 Rovaniemi Opening hours Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm kontti.redcross.fi

FA S H I O N

• InterSport • Ecco Shop • Koo Kenkä Shoe Store • Hairdresser’s Hairlekiini • Knitting store Vallaton Villa • Optician Fenno Optiikka K-SUPERMARKET Mon-Sat 8–21, Sun 11–21

ai

CAFES & R E S TA U R A N T S

T

D E PA R T M E N T & G R O C E RY S T O R E S

m e k ko

• Restaurant Comico • Restaurant Feenix • Café Spice Ice • Café Break • Halfmoon

M ALKO Mon-Fri 9–21, Sat 9–18

g a ko r u

arttiini


LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN

Marttiini factory turns 90 years JANNE MARTTIINI REVOLUTIONISED KNIFE MANUFACTURE IN FINLAND AND PUT FINNISH KNIVES ON THE WORLD MAP

J

ohan Henrik alias Janne Marttiini was born into a religious family in the Kierinki village in 1883. He was ambitious and hardworking, and at the age of 16 he became blacksmith’s apprentice. In 1923, he started his own modest smithy in Rovaniemi producing sickles, iron parts, and tools. He developed his own knife model, the Lynx knife, and his reputation reached as far as the Swedish and Norwegian Lapland. In 1928, Janne opened the J. Marttiini Knife Factory, producing not only knives but other products as well, such as coffee mills. Janne Marttiini went on preaching trips in the Rovaniemi area and sold his knives during his travels. At the Vyborg agricultural exhibition in 1932, he demonstrated the sharpness of his knife by shaving people’s neck hair. This awarded him the exhibition first prize. As the demand for his knives grew, a new factory building was built in Rovaniemi in 1940. The building was damaged in the war, but afterwards it was repaired and the production of knives continued. Janne Marttiini’s vision was truly ahead of his time. His approach revolutionised the way knives were manufactured in Finland. Essentially, he did to knives what Henry Ford did to the automotive industry. His factory produced knives at a higher volume for an affordable price, without sacrificing their quality.

THEESUN

SHAMAN

REINDEER

SHAMANNJEWELLERY..MADEEINNLAPLANDD--SINCEE1981.

18

VISIT OUR ALL ABOUT LAPLAND SHOP!| SUMMER 2018

- Rovaniemi, Shopping center Rinteenkulma - Arctic Circle, Santa Claus Village phone: +358 16 313070 e-mail: info@taigakoru.fi


LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN

In 1952, he embarked on his first preaching and sales trip to the United States. There he found new markets, which eventually led to an extensive filleting knife trade. In 1967, Janne Marttiini received a prestigious Exports Award from the President of Finland. By 1970, the one-millionth filleting knife was produced, and once again there was a need for a larger production facility. A new factory was built in the Rovaniemi industrial area in the 1970s. Janne Marttiini died in 1970 at the age of 77. “Truth, honour, and humility” were his main principles of life. In 2018, the Marttiini knife factory celebrates its 90th anniversary. Janne’s life principles are well maintained and knife production continues. Today, the factory manufactures a wide range of products from classic knives to new hunting and fishing models. The Lynx knife, designed by Janne Marttiini, is still manufactured in many different variations. It is an ultimate hiking and all-purpose knife model that serves its owner for decades. Janne Marttiini also popularised the traditional Lapp knife, originally invented by the Sami people. Its large machete-like blade with a rounded tip is suitable for hunting and skinning animals, and even for chopping wood. Nowadays, it is used by hikers, tourist guides, and conscripts in the Finnish army. The classic filleting knife manufactured since the 1950s has evolved. It is now available also with a non-slip rubber handle or with non-stick Martef

Marttiini Bronze Bird Damascus knife is a true collector’s item.

Marttiini Factory in the 1940’s. Today, it houses Marttiini factory shop.

coating. Hunters can choose between several classic and modern knife models for opening, skinning, and cutting of game. Traditional carbon steel is used for the classic Marttiini models, and chrome steel for the modern ones. Carbon steel is still the number-one choice for many, as it can be easily sharpened even in the field, whereas chrome steel is famous for its stainless properties and requires practically zero maintenance. Marttiini’s Carbinox T508 steel combines the best characteristics of carbon and chrome steel. The Marttiini knife factory also produces various collector’s knifes. Particularly famous of those are knives with Damascus steel with handles made from moose antler or heat-treated wood. There is also a large selection of knives with bronze ferrules depicting Finland’s animals, as well as hand-crafted reindeer horn knives. To celebrate the factory’s 90th anniversary, Marttiini has launched a special limited edition Anniversary Knife made from carbon steel. You can purchase Marttiini knives from their factory shops in Rovaniemi and Helsinki, and online. The Marttiini old factory in the Rovaniemi city centre is now used as a shop for the Marttiini knives. It also houses an exhibition of old knives that you can visit free of charge. The two other Marttiini factory shops in Rovaniemi are located at Rinteenkulma Shopping Centre and at Santa Claus Village. www.marttiini.com

Blacksmith Janne Marttiini founded a knife factory in Rovaniemi in 1928. In 2018, the factory celebrates its 90th anniversary. Marttiini makes traditional Finnish and Lapp knives, modern fishing and hunting knives and special collector’s knives with Damascus steel and reindeer horn. Visit Marttiini factory shops in Rovaniemi or Marttiini Webshop:

MARTTIINI 90 TH ANNIVERSARY KNIFE 2018

www.marttiini.com. MARTTIINI OLD FACTORY Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16

RINTEENKULMA SHOPPING CENTRE Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–17

SANTA CLAUSALL VILLAGE ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 Every day 10–17

19


Local Food with Love

You will find us at Arctic TreeHouse Hotel, next to SantaPark, 2 km from Santa Claus Village & 8 km from Rovaniemi City Centre - Open from 2nd July www.rakasrestaurant.com | rakas@rakasrestaurant.com | ☏ +358 505 176 909

Welcome to spend a fun day with the elves in Santa’s own Home Cavern Cool things to do & see in SantaPark * Elf

School * Magic Show * Elf Workshop * Magic Train * Post Office * Ice Princess’ Ice Gallery * Mrs. Gingerbread’s Kitchen

Opening hours during summer 2018 25 June to 11 August Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.

* Undercross the Arctic Circle ... and of course meet Santa Claus!

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Book your ticket: www.santapark.com | info@santapark.com | ☏ +358 600 301 203

21


SHOPPING  CENTRE

SAMPOKESKUS Sampokeskus Shopping Centre is an oasis of trends & fashion in Rovaniemi center. Here you will find inclusive fashion stores, a variety of cafés and restaurants, a cinema, souvenir shops, Fitness24Seven gym, a pharmacy and a tourist office. CAFÉS & FOOD Café Antell • Hesburger • Rock Café Grande • Subway • Classic American Diner • Mumin Kaffe BEAUTY & HEALTH Attirance • Fitness24Seven • Hairlekiini hair salon • Sagatar Beauty & Wellness • Sampo Pharmacy • The BodyShop FASHION Cubus • Gina Tricot • Jack & Jones • Laukkutalo bag store • Sensuelle underwear • MODA • Paapero children • Tredonne • Vero Moda SPECIALTY SERVICES Bio Rex Cinema • Cityvarasto • Confetti • Danske Bank • Filmtown & candyshop • Otto ATM • Pentik design shop • Rovaniemi Tourist Info • Tiinuska souvenir shop

FREE PARKING Our underground parking hall offers 1 hour free parking.

SAMPOKESKUS Maakuntakatu 29–31, Lordi Square, Rovaniemi centre Mon–Fri 10–19, Sat 10–17, Sun 12–16. sampokeskus.fi

/sampokeskus


km

Ai rp or t5

10

24 23

26

31

8 8

7

1

2

19 21 20

25

9

18

3

4

30

29 16

11 12 17

14

34

13

32

15

33

8

22

8 6 5

8

28

27

R O VA N I E M I C I T Y M A P SHOPPING & SERVICES

CAFES & RESTAURANTS

CULTURE & ATTRACTIONS

1. Rovaniemi Tourist Info 2. Shopping Centre Sampokeskus Sampo Pharmacy 3. Shooping centre Rinteenkulma 4. Shopping centre Revontuli

11. Coffee House 12. Rosso 13. Nili 14. Himo 15. Frans & Chérie 16. Amarillo 17. Uitto Pub 18. Choco Deli 19. Halfmoon Night Club 20. Yuca 21. Cafe-Bar 21 22. Arctic Ice Cream Factory Summer Parlour

23. Arktikum Museum & Science Centre 24. Pilke Science Centre 25. Korundi House of Culture 26. Marttiini Old Factory 27. Administrative and Cultural Centre 28. Angry Birds Children’s Playground

TRANSPORTATION

5. Rovaniemi Railway Station 6. Bus Station 7. Central Taxi Station 8. Bus Stops for Bus Number 8 to Santa Claus Village 9. Scandia Rent 10. Rovaniemi Airport

HOTELS

29. Original Sokos Hotel Vaakuna 30. Hotel Santa Claus 31. Hotel Aakenus 32. Scandic Pohjanhovi 33. Arctic Light Hotel 34. City Hotel ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

23


RAKAS R E S TAU R A N T A R C T I C F L AV O U R S B Y

Jonathan Guppy

O

pened in 2016, the Arctic TreeHouse Hotel has truly raised the bar for luxury travel in Rovaniemi. 37 beautiful design suites are sitting on top of the hill not far from the Arctic Circle. Underneath is hidden one of Rovaniemi’s top attractions, SantaPark, a Christmas-themed cave. Their design is inspired by the Nordic nature and ecological timber materials are used for both inside and outside walls. The hotel became an instant hit with the travellers and created a buzz in the media. The unique design of the nestlike suites was praised by The Telegraph, Bloomberg, Vogue and was named the Best Innovation in Hotel Concept at the World Hospitality Awards 2017 in Paris. Food is, of course, an important part of a good travel experience. The hotel features a Scandinavian restaurant called Rakas (“beloved one” in Finnish). The head chef is Jonathan Guppy, an Englishman who moved to Rovaniemi some 7 years ago.

24

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

We hope that the flavours will hit you in the head!

Jonathan Guppy, head chef of Rakas restaurant, relies on the Arctic Flavours.

Why do you like Lapland, Jonathan? “It’s an ease of being here,” says Jonathan. “In England, it’s a constant overload of the senses, even in the countryside. I work very long hours, and here there’s lots of nature that helps me relax. I like to run at least 2-3 times a week in the forest”. Since the early age Jonathan knew he wanted to be a chef and played cooking with his Grandma in the kitchen. He started to wash dishes at a restaurant at the age of 15. Having worked all his life as a chef in UK and Finland, he is now in charge of Rakas and 3 other restaurants of SantaPark Arctic World. According to Jonathan, in Rakas they try to use as much local ingredients as they can. Instead of olive oil, for example, they use juniper oil and spruce oil, instead of lemon — spruce shoots that have the same acidic flavour profile. “Seasonality and locality play a big part in our kitchen”, says Guppy. “We use Nordic style of cooking focusing on ingredients from our area. It makes sense!” “I love reindeer,” says Jonathan. “It’s an amazing ingredient, every part of it has to be cooked in a different way. Fillet is served as rare as possible, and the neck is cooked for two days straight until it falls apart and it’s the best pulled pork you’ve ever had, but it’s pulled reindeer!” Jonathan is also fond of pike perch (sander) which is, in his words, unique to this part of the world. He prefers it for its subtle and delicate flavour. “The skin, when you cook it right, it’s like tiger skin. Pike perch is an awesome fish to plate up presentation-wise as well.”

Grilled pike perch with shellfish sauce.

Summer is short and fast in Lapland, but according to Jonathan, you can still get good vegetables, especially root vegetables here. Throughout the winter, they use some 150 kilos of freeze-dried and frozen blueberries, lingonberries and cloudberries that the whole staff has picked right nearby in the forest. “I’ve got training in molecular gastronomy, but I shy away from it now. I like to focus more on ingredients and let them do the talking. We hope that the flavours will hit you in the head!” You can taste these amazing ingredients of the modern Lappish cuisine at Rakas restaurant throughout the year. However, in Spring 2018 the hotel will receive 17 more design suits in addition to the exiting 38 suites and 5 villas, and the restaurant will be closed until July 2nd 2018. Address: Tarvantie 3, Rovaniemi (next to SantaPark). Every day from July 2nd 2018. www.rakasrestaurant.com


FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI

FRANS & CHÉRIE AMARILLO FRANS & CHÉRIE is a cosy bistro in the centre of Rovaniemi, inspired by the French love of food. Jump into the flavours of the French Provence and taste classic cold cuts, brioches, snails, king prawns and steaks. French burger with Comté cheese is something that even the youngsters will appreciate! Friday is the Mussels Day at Frans & Chérie, so don’t be late, because the mussels are on offer for as long as the stock lasts! If you want to sample something local, Frans & Chérie has a special Lappish menu. Start with a hearty salmon soup, and continue with reindeer fillet with red wine sauce — it will definitely melt in your mouth! Another option is the classic sautéed reindeer with Lappish potatoes and lingonberry jam. Fish lovers will certainly appreciate fried Arctic char from the local waters. Frans & Chérie is also an excellent place for lunch. For 12€ you can enjoy a warm dish, and buffet with salads and coffee. In summer, the terrace of Frans & Chérie is a great place to grab a bite and sample local beers. On weekdays from 15 to 18 Frans & Chérie invites you for an AfterWork with great offers and drinks. Bon appétit!

Koskikatu 4, Rovaniemi. +358 444 050 216. Mon–Fri 11–23, Sat 12-23, Sun 12–22.

AMARILLO is an excellent restaurant that combines great food with partymaking. The heart of Amarillo’s is “Mad Mex” or rich tex-mex dishes that are designed to be shared. How about a plate of nachos, chicken wings or tacos? If you and your companion are really hungry, then go for “The Plate”, an Ox flank steak, with chorizzo and sides of your choice. Amarillo also knows a fair bit about good burgers, and makes them with love and care. Amarillo Big Burger with beef patties, BBQ sauce and french fries will certainly spice up your day! In summer, Amarillo’s sunny terrace becomes the city’s most popular hang-out place, all thanks to its atmosphere and the view towards the Kemijoki river. Restaurants usually close up early, but on Fridays and Saturdays Amarillo’s kitchen works extended hours until midnight! There is no rush anyway, as you can continue the evening at Amarillo’s bar over a couple of drinks.

Koskikatu 4, Rovaniemi. +358 444 050 213. Mon–Thu 11–23, Fri 11–02, Sat 12–02, Sun 12–23.

ROSSO COFFEE HOUSE COFFEE HOUSE in Rovaniemi centre is truly the whole city’s lounge. Laid back atmosphere, snacks and a good cup of coffee — they’ve got you covered! For its espressobased drinks Coffee House uses ecological UTZ-certified beans. For your cappuccino or latte, you can choose between the regular and vegan milk. There are also plenty of choices of delicious brewed tea, including sencha and rooibos. And if you are in the mood for celebrating, why not go for a glass of sparkling wine? On weekdays, Coffee House invites the early birds for a cup of coffee and breakfast from 8AM. Fresh croissants are baked every morning and there are plenty of other tasty treats such as foccaccias and cakes.

Maakuntakatu 30, Rovaniemi. +358 44 7885 888. Mon–Fri 08–21, Sat 10–21, Sun 11–20.

PIZZA IS DEAR to every Finn’s heart to the point of becoming Finnish “national food”! If you feel a sudden crave for pizza, Rosso will certainly take care of that! Here you can sample not only the classic Neapolitan pizzas, but also rustic and crunchy Roman-style artisan pizzas. They are really delicious! And the best thing is that you can have your pizza gluten-free, it will be baked in the dedicated oven. You can also swap regular cheese for a vegan option. Rosso brings you the joy of Italian cuisine: steakes, chicken and lamb from the grill and fresh salads. There is also a nice selection of risottos and pastas. Complementary salad buffet table comes with all of the main dishes. In summer, it is a great idea to enjoy your meal or a couple of drinks outside at the terrace. You will find Rosso near the Lordi square right in the middle of Rovaniemi. Enjoy!

Maakuntakatu 30, Rovaniemi. +358 44 7885 751. Mon– Sat 11–22, Sun 12–22.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

25


FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI

R E S TA U R A N T N I L I NILI is a truly legendary restaurant in the centre of Rovaniemi. Thanks to its amazing Lappish cuisine and hospitality Nili has become one of Rovaniemi’s attractions. Visiting Nili is always an experience, even if you are a local. Nili’s kitchen is based on the best local ingredients, such as the reindeer meat, fish, game, root vegetables, mushrooms and berries. For starters, go for Rovaniemi Market. It is a huge wooden platter filled with

wonderful appetizers: cooked and marinated reindeer meat, salmon, vendace, berries and Lappish cheese. Reindeer is the main ingredient of the Lappish cuisine. A classical way to enjoy it is sautéed reindeer, served with mashed potatoes, pickles and lingonberry jam. For a more modern approach, go for reindeer prepared in two ways. Equally great is Nili’s selection of fish dishes which respects seasonality.

Nili is one of the rare places in Lapland to sample bear meat. Granted, it is not a cheap treat, but the supply is limited and availability depends on the luck of the local hunters. Bear meat is gamey and very rich in flavour. For desserts, go for the classic Lappish baked cheese with cloudberry jam. It’s a real treat!

Valtakatu 20, Rovaniemi. +358 400 369 669, www.nili.fi. Tue–Sat 17–23. Mon & Sun: closed.

YUCA

CAFE&BAR21 CAFE&BAR21 is one of Rovaniemi’s best cafes. It’s a great place for lunch, quick snack or a few drinks! Their menu offers a great selection of salads with toppings of your choices, baked potatoes, pasta, and my favourite — the hearty salmon soup! Cafe&Bar 21 is especially famous for their waffles. You can have them as a main dish with sour fillings, for example, chicken or meatballs, or as a dessert with fruits and berries. If you would like to taste something local, go for the Finnish tapas plate with salmon, smoked reindeer and Lappish cheese. Cafe&Bar 21 is also renowned for its selection of quality wines, many of which are available by the glass, and refreshing cocktails, making it a great place to drop by in the evenings. In Summer, you might come across one of Cafe&Bar 21’s kiosks at Lordi square or near the Angry Birds park (Valtakatu 4) where you will find some bubble waffles and fresh gelato!

Rovakatu 21, Rovaniemi. www.cafebar21.fi. Mon-Tue 11–21, Wed-Thu 11-22, Fri 11-02, Sat 12-02, Sun 12-21. 26

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

YUCA is the latest addition to Rovaniemi’s growing food scene that offers you a fresh taste of the real Mexican cuisine. Yuca takes special pride in its tacos and tostadas that are hand-made in the house. Choose between pork, beef, chicken, mushroom, chorizo or fish fillings – they are all full of flavour! Tuesday is taco-day with a special taco recipe for a special price. Yuca’s main dishes are absolutely delicious. Try, for example, Lucioperca, fried pike perch with mango salsa and avocado cream, or El bife de Yuca, grilled steak with vegetables that will melt in your mouth. The dishes are prepared in a coal grill, staying true to the authentic Mexican style of cooking. Top it with classic churros, and you are in heaven! Yuca’s tequila and mezcal-based drink selection deserves a special mention. Yuca is very addictive, and has recently become my favourite place for lunch. Tip: go for the burrito bowl!

Rovakatu 21, Rovaniemi. +358 40 099 87 54, www.yuca.fi Mon-Thu 11–21, Fri–Sat 11-23, Sun: closed.


FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI ARCTIC ICE CREAM FACTORY is an artisan brand of ice creams from Rovaniemi. It was born in 2015 out of love and passion towards the pure nordic ingredients. The founder of the factory, Anna-Riikka Lavia, explains. “We try to use as much local ingredients as possible. Our blueberries, cloudberries and lingonberries come from the local berry-pickers and our dairy is produced at the local farm”. Anna-Riikka’s strive for quality has payed off. She makes ice cream by hand in small batches, that’s why it always tastes so fresh and creamy! In addition to berry-flavoured ice-creams there are liquorice, fudge and dairy-free berry options. For this summer, Anna-Riikka has something special to offer: spruce sprout ice sorbet (photo). Spruce sprouts are gathered by hand in the beginning of summer, and they are rich in vitamin C.

ARCTIC ICE CREAM FAC T O RY

You can find Arctic Ice Cream Factory parlour at Choco Deli cafe in Rovaniemi centre (Koskikatu 18). In summer, you can taste these ice creams at a kiosk near the Kemijoki river, or bump into one of the factory’s bicycle vending carts. Over 40 restaurants and markets around Lapland sell Arctic Ice Cream Factory’s products. You can find them in Rovaniemi at restaurant Rakas and SantaPark, Hostel Cafe Koti, K-Supermarket Rinteenkulma and at Kiisa restaurant in Break Sokos Hotel Levi.

www.arcticicecreamfactory.fi

HIMO

UITTO

HIMO is a true oasis of Asian flavours in the heart of Rovaniemi. Himo is passionate about Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisines. Its name translates from Finnish as “passion” or “lust”. Himo is known of its amazing sushi which are said to be some of the best in the whole country. There are many classic sushi options on the menu, however, you can taste something really local, such as reindeer nigiri and spicy reindeer uramaki. Himo offers some mouthwatering Asian dishes, such as ramen or red curry soup, spring rolls, woks and dim sums. These dishes are available with shrimp, pork, mushrooms and chicken. But there are some truly exotic choices such as reindeer and bear meat! Himo must be the only place in the world to taste ramen soup or wok with bear meat! Still, my favourite dish on the menu is ramen burger. Made with reindeer meat and wheat nooddles bun, it is an amazing treat!

UITTO PUB is a must place to visit if you wish to experience a night out like a local. Its name and interior play hommage to the times of the fearless lumberjacks. These daredevils floated log by local rivers and liked to offset their job with a little bit of fun! Uitto pub cherises local traditions and the spirit of their wild partymaking is still very much present here. Uitto pub is a great place to sample local beverages. My tip is to go for the local craft beers from the “Lapland Brewery”, based in Rovaniemi. Their artisan ales and lagers encapsulate the true Lappish spirit. Wine on tap is also available here. On weekdays from 17 to 21, Uitto pub invites you for some special drinks and offers. Watch sports on the big screens, play darts or board games with your friends, order something from the kitchen and you won’t notice how the time flies!

Valtakatu 23, Rovaniemi. +358 40 508 82 82. Tue–Fri 16–22, Sat 12–22. Mon & Sun: closed.

Korkalonkatu 25, Rovaniemi. +358 447 88 58 89. Open every day 17–02.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

27


1

7

RANUA ZOO RANUA WILDLIFE PARK is the home for the adorable Arctic animals. Situated 80 km from Rovaniemi, Ranua is a great destination for a family day trip. Alternatively, you can stay at the Gulo-Gulo Holiday Village near Ranua. At the Wildlife Park you can meet 200 animals, belonging to 50 different species: polar and brown bears, wolves, lynxes, wolverines, moose, foxes, arctic birds, and many others. In 2016, polar bear Sisu was born here. He has grown into a big bear now but still enjoys playing with his mom and toys. To see the animals, you will walk a 2,8 km park trail in the middle of the forest. In summer, there is also Domestic Park with many farm animals.

x FUN F A M I LY

S A N TA PA R K SANTAPARK is Santa’s underground cave where the happy

elves live! All year round, they prepare Christmas gifts for Santa, but they also have lots of time for games. Of course, both children and their parents are warmly welcome here. In SantaPark you can attend the Elf school and learn some secret elfish skills, practise traditional old-fashioned elf writing and experience the joy of creation in the Elf Workshop. Here, you can also enjoy Four Seasons sleigh ride, taste Mrs Gingerbread’s cookies, play at the Angry Birds Activity area and cross the Arctic Circle 50 meters below the ground! One of the special places in SantaPark is the Ice Kingdom where you can meet the Ice Queen!

Open daily. Summer opening hours 9–19. Rest of the year: 10–16. Adults 17€, children 14€ (4–14 years). Family ticket 51€. www.ranuazoo.com.

2

Tarvantie 1, Rovaniemi. Open 25.6–11.8.2018 Mon–Sat 10 to 17. Adults 17,5€, children 15€ (3–12 years).

2

X

AD VE NT UR E PA RK S! HOPLOP AND ROLLOHALLI are two awesome adventure parks under one roof! Kids of all ages can play and exercise here with their parents. Parks are situated just 3 km from Rovaniemi centre and are open every day. Unlimited play time!

ROLLOHALLI (AGE 7+)

HOPLOP (AGE 0–12)

Super & wall trampolines, foampits, airtracks, parkour, tricking/cheer/gymnastics e.g.

Labyrinths, obstacles, slides, bouncy castles, pipes, mini-cars and electronic games!

28

ENTRANCE. HopLop: Adults 0€, infants under 1 yr 0€, 1–2 yrs 10€, 3 yrs and over 15€. RolloHalli: 15€. Entrance to both parks 18€.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Napapiirintie 14, Rovaniemi.

Opening hours: every day 10–20

www.hoplop.fi | www.rollohalli.fi


3

REINDEER REINDEER HERDING is one of Lapland’s most ancient livelihoods. Most of the year, the reindeer roam free in the forest where they eat well and enjoy their summer days. You can dive deeper into reindeer herding by joining the local reindeer herders and visit their reindeer in the countryside. With a gentle whistle, the reindeer will come to greet you so you can touch them and take photos with them. This summer program lasts two hours and includes a snack on the open fire. Price for adult 80€, child 50€. For a truly unique experience, you can go hiking together with the reindeer. You will see some beautiful landscapes in Rovaniemi countryside. The reindeer will carry picnic supplies on their back. Once you reach the spot with a view, you will make a fire at a lean-to and enjoy some lunch. The program is available 1.5–16.6 and 1.9–1.11.2018. Price for adult 150€, child 80€, transportation included.

Book from Santa Claus Reindeer, +358 40 8339818. info@santaclausreindeer.fi, www.santaclausreindeer.fi.

ADVENTURE PA R K S HOP-LOP & ROLLO-HALLI are two huge adventure parks,

situated 3 km from Rovaniemi centre. Here, kids of all ages can play and exercise with their parents and have some fun! When it is rainy outside this is the place where you can play all day without limit. Vast labyrinths, trampolines, big foampits and bowls, parkour, mini-cars…here you can find everything! Hop-Lop is dedicated to younger kids aged 0–12 while Rollo-Halli welcomes kids older than 7 and teenagers. At Rollo–Halli, you can leave your kids under the supervision of the staff. There’s also a little cafe where adults can wait while their kids are having a blast!

4

Napapiirintie 14, Rovaniemi. Open daily 10–20. Adults & infants: 0€. Kids 1–2 yrs 10€, 3 yrs and higher 15€. Entrance to both parks 18€.

Toyota Rent a Car Explore Lapland on your own terms!

We offer passenger cars, SUV’s, and passenger vans up to 9 seats! BOOK YOUR CAR: rent.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi +358 40 590 19 42 Pick up your car 24/7 at Rovaniemi airport, railway station or at your hotel!

TOJO-AUTO ROVANIEMI Alakorkalontie 15 Mon–Fri 08–17

Authorized Toyota dealer since 1968.

MAINTENANCE & REPAIRS

SPARE PARTS & SUPPLIES

huolto.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi +358 400 196 533

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | WINTER 2017 29 varaosat.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi +358 400 160 244 www.tojoauto.fi


5

HUSKY TOURS HUSKY DOGS are absolutely adorable animals! A good place to meet them is the Bearhill Husky Kennel some 25 km north from Rovaniemi. The huskies love to be petted and they will be very happy to meet you and your family! You will receive a guided tour of their kennel facilities and have a thorough insight into the life of huskies. The mushers will be happy to give you a short ride with a cart, however, the temperature should be cooler than 15°C. Otherwise, it is too hot for the huskies to run. Bearhill Kennel Tour is available in summer and autumn. The program lasts 1,5 hours and is available from Tuesdays to Saturdays. When it gets cooler in autumn, you can actually do a thrilling 30–40 minute husky cart drive in the forest! Born To Run Autumn tour starts 14.08.2018.

Bearhill Kennel Tour: adults 69€, children 4–14 yrs 39€. Born to Run Tour: adults 119€, children 4–14 yrs 59€. www.bearhillhusky.com, +358 40 760 0020.

SCIENCE MUSEUMS SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE AND ARKTIKUM MUSEUM will provide your family with new discoveries! The northern forest is not only Finland’s most cherished treasure, but it is also the main theme at Pilke. At its interactive playground children and adults can get behind the wheel of a forestry machine, sing forest karaoke, climb into a bird house, and make a selfie on a giant screen. Arktikum is a great place to find out more about the history of Lapland and Arctic in general. The museum is a fun place for kids and adults, as there will be many interesting games and riddles on your path. One thing that all family must do here is to see the Northern Lights show in a special theatre.

6

Arktikum & Pilke: Pohjoisranta 4, Rovaniemi. Cultural pass: adults 20€, children 7–15 years 10€. www.arktikum.fi, www.tiedekeskus-pilke.fi.

7

A N G RY B I R D S THE ANGRY BIRDS is some of the most fun inventions that Finland gave to the world. In Rovaniemi, you will find the Angry Birds Activity Park where children of all ages can enjoy various activities on and around the Angry Birds figures. The playground is full of fun equipment such as the giant slingshot, ropewalk, slides and swings. The park is close to the city centre and the admittance is free. In summer, you will find a kiosk by Cafe&Bar 21 near the park with some great snacks. Rovaniemi’s second Angry Birds playground is situated inside SantaPark. You can go play there for the entrance fee to SantaPark that includes dozens of different games and Christmas-themed activities.

Angry Birds Park: Valtakatu 4, Rovaniemi, between the bridges in the city centre. Free entry. SantaPark: Tarvantie 1, Rovaniemi. Open 25.6–11.8.2018.

30

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


RANUA is situated 80 km south from Rovaniemi. About 50 species and 200 individuals of Arctic animals live here in the middle of the forest. At the Ranua Wildlife Park, you can meet brown bears, lynxes, red foxes, reindeer, wild birds etc. In Summer, you can also admire farm animals and their young ones at the Domestic Park. Luxuriously equipped Holiday Village Gulo-Gulo provides quality accommodation near the Wildlife Park. Ranua is waiting to welcome you!

EXPERIENCE

WILD ARCTIC

PO F CTIC OX AR

LYNX

BE

LAR BEAR

Y OWL OW SN

AVER

M

i sus martim

Ca stor canade

Bu bo s ndiac ca

Ranua Wildlife Park is open every day 10–16. Summer opening hours 9–19.

us

ns

is

us

Lynx lynx

NTAIN W OL F

Ur Al opex lagop

OU

us

THE

s Cuon alpinu

www.ranuazoo.com • www.gulo.fi

BIGGEST SELECTION OF

SUMMER

TOURS I N R O VA N I E M I

• • • • • •

Visits to Husky & Reindeer Farms Canoeing, Rafting & Fishing Tours Nature Hikes & Berry-picking Photography Tours Midnight Sun & Aurora Hunting Sauna & Wellness Experiences INFO & BOOKING: WWW.WILDNORDIC.FI | INFO@WILDNORDIC.FI | +358 500 599 99931 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


LAPLAND TIPS | CULTURE

KO RU N D I H O U S E O F C U LT U R E KORUNDI HOUSE OF CULTURE IS ONE OF ROVANIEMI’S TOP ATTRACTIONS. IT HOLDS THE CITY’S ART MUSEUM, A CONCERT HALL, AND THE SPIRIT OF THE CITY’S PAST.

K

orundi is one of the few buildings in Rovaniemi that survived WWII. In 1944, around 90% of the city’s buildings were destroyed by the retreating German soldiers. This two-storeyed brick building was designed by the architect Ture Hellström and built in 1933. For many decades, the building served as the post bus depot. The families of the mechanics lived upstairs. After WWII, the building was expanded using bricks from other ruined buildings in Rovaniemi.

In 1986, the depot was transformed into the city’s Art Museum. Over 500 works of modern Finnish art were donated to the museum by the Jenny and Antti Wihuri foundation. Today, there are over 3000 works of art in the museum’s collection and new ones are added constantly. 32

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

In 2011, the Art Museum was expanded and rebranded as Korundi. The name stands for Corundum, a very tough mineral. New concert hall was built in the museum’s yard with rough copper tiles as the outside walls. The concert hall hosts the performances of the Chamber Orchestra of Lapland and guest artists. The acoustics in the hall is one of the best in Finland. Rovaniemi art museum gives you a great insight into the modern Finnish art. It has one of the most significant collections of Finnish contemporary art of the past decades. In particular, it presents many of the most important works of the Finnish art of the 2000’s. The northern Finnish and Sami art are extensively represented in the collection. The highlight of Korundi’s summer is the “Land of Snow” exhibition. Finland’s long and snowy winters have long inspired artists. They were not afraid of cold and wanted to capture the beauty of the Finnish winter outdoors. Their works feature crystal snowy landscapes lit by the sunshine, as well as breathtaking beauty of the untouched forest. Land of Snow exhibition will be open at Korundi 15.6–21.10.2018. Korundi House of Culture also features a souvenirs shop where you can buy quality products by local artists made out of sustainable ecological materials.

KO RU N D I

Lapinkävijäntie 4, Rovaniemi Tue-Sun 11–18. Thu 11–20. www.korundi.fi


LAPLAND TIPS | CULTURE

ARKTIKUM

PILKE

ARKTIKUM MUSEUM IS A WINDOW INTO

SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE LEADS YOU ON

THE LOCAL HISTORY AND THE ARCTIC REGIONS

A JOURNEY INTO THE FINNISH FORESTS

ARKTIKUM is the leading cultural centre in Lapland. Inside its 172-metre glass corridor built on the shore of Ounasjoki river you will find the Arctic Centre and the Regional Museum of Lapland. Their exhibitions will make you familiar with the local history starting from 6000 BC. Lapland is the home region for the only indigenous people in Europe: the Sami. Arktikum will give you a great insight into the Sami culture, their livelihoods and languages. You will also find lots of info about other indigenous cultures popularing the Arctic such as the Inuit and the Nenets.

SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE is an architectural marvel that is made almost entirely out of wood. There is even birch skin wallpaper! Nature and forests play a major role in everyday life of Finns, and Pilke tells you all about that. The ground floor of the science centre is filled with games, engaging challenges and obstacles, by solving which the whole family can have a great deal of fun and learn some new facts about nature. Get behind the wheel of a forestry machine, climb into a bird house, sing karaoke on top of an anthill and explore the forest with all your senses!

Arktikum: Pohjoisranta 4. Pilke: Ounasjoentie 6. Culture pass to Arkikum, Pilke and Korundi: 20€ / adult, 10€ children.

C U LT U R E H I G H L I G H T S I N R O VA N I E M I

S O F T M OV E M E N T S & U N TA M E D S O U N D

8.6–26.8.2018 @ Arktikum Joint exhibition by nature photographer Olli Lamminsalo and sound artist Kirsi Ihalainen.

H OT ST U F F

L A N D O F S N OW

until 30.9.2018 @ Arktikum

15.6–21.10.2018 @ Korundi

This hot exhibition reveals the secrets of Arctic dating and mating with a dash of hay barn romance and summer meadow.

Collection of art inspired by long and cold winters in Finland. Works by Finland’s best painters. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

33


34

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


E N J OY I N G

SUMMER Santa’s way!

SUMMER IN LAPLAND IS SHORT BUT VERY BEAUTIFUL! LOOKING FOR SOME SUMMER TIPS FOR OUR READERS, WE TURNED TO LAPLAND’S MOST FAMOUS DWELLER, SANTA CLAUS HIMSELF! SANTA GLADLY AGREED, BUT INSTEAD OF JUST TELLING US ABOUT THEM, HE INVITED US FOR A LITTLE TRIP OUTDOORS WITH HIM AND HIS DEAR ELVES. WE COULD NOT RESIST THE OFFER! HERE’S WHAT WE’VE LEARNED.

1. Hiking in nature

Santa loves being out in nature. Maybe, it is one of the secrets to his long life? Even the science says that forest is a great relief for stress! In the middle of Summer, there is no night in Lapland, and your can be outdoors around the clock. Pack your backpack with some matches, tools and snacks and go out hiking! It’s so nice to have a picnic at a “laavu” (or lean-to) after a good walk. Fishing is also a good way to enjoy some fresh air, and maybe get something extra for lunch? Just watch out of mosquitoes!

2. Berry-picking

Berry-picking is one of Santa’s favourite hobbies. There are many wonderful berries that Lapland’s nature provieds us with, such as bilberries (wild blueberries), cloudberries, lingonberries and more. Finland’s Everyman’s right guarantees that you can pick them for free and without permission. Santa Claus’ favourite berry is, of course, blueberry. Santa says that tastes amazing in Mrs Claus’ blueberry pie!

3. Outdoor games

Evles like to engage in many wonderful activities, such as Hide the Elf, Fill the Sleigh or Find the Reindeer. If these sound a little bit odd to you, Rovaniemi’s central beach offers many opportunities to have fun: swimming in the river, beach volley and disk golf. One particular Finnish game that Santa likes to play is called “Mölkky”. It is a throwing game that does not require strength but skills. You can acquire your set of “Mölkky” in a local hypermarket.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

35


n atio

form ist in r u o T ll

She

8 km

mi 7

nie Rova

2

laus

7

ta C San

ce

dic Nor g Wild bookin ri safa

Offi

1

9

4 m

rk 1k

taPa San

e

llag

i ay V

olid us H

farm Elf’s

5 6

la

ta C San

3 aus a Cl

eer

d Rein

t San

SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE IS THE BIGGEST ATTRACTION IN LAPLAND! HERE, YOU CAN MEET SANTA CLAUS, SEND POSTCARDS TO YOUR FRIENDS FROM SANTA’S POST OFFICE, AND FINDS SOME NICE SOUVENIRS FOR YOUR FAMILY. SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE is open every day of the year! Here, Santa Claus is waiting for you in his office, together with his helpers, the elves. Entrance to the Santa Claus Village, and seeing Santa Claus is always free of charge. Once you’ve met the man himself, you can visit his Post Office and receive a special stamp on your postcards or letters. The elves will make sure that the letters are delivered right away (orange box) or wait until next Christmas (red box). Behind Santa’s office, you can see how his reindeer are training for the next winter season. You can enter Santa Claus Reindeer farm for a modest fee of 5€, pet the reindeer, and take photos with them. The farm’s Lapland Restaurant, modelled after the traditional Sami tent, is also a great place for lunch. At Santa Claus Village, you can cross the mysterious Arctic Circle. It passes right through the central square. Arctic Circle means that north of this line the sun does not set in summer. Santa Claus Village also has many Finnish design shops. You might have heard about such Finnish brands as Iittala and Marimekko. Their shops are situated in the wings of Santa’s Office building. Here, you will also find the outlet of local jewellery workshop Taigakoru, famous for its nature-inspired pieces.

36

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

OPEN EVERY DAY 10–17. SUMMER MONTHS: EVERY DAY 9–18. FREE ENTRANCE. BUS TO SANTA VILLAGE

Marttiini factory shop who sells traditional Finnish and Lappish knives is also worth checking out. In the Southern side of the village you will find Christmas house that tells about the traditions of celebrating Christmas in different countries of the world. Christmas house is also a great place to do some souvenir shopping. Right nearby, you will find the Three Elves restaurant, that you can visit both for lunch and for dinner. By the way, nowadays you can also spend the night in the village! Santa Claus Holiday Village with its cosy wooden cottages is a good choice for the whole family stay. www.santaclausvillage.info

Bus #8 is a cheaper way to reach Santa Claus Village. The bus departs from the railway station and passes by the city center. You can hop on the bus at Sokos Vaakuna Hotel (photo). Download timetable by scanning QR-code:

yard


1

2

3

SA N TA C L AU S O F F I C E

SA N TA C L AU S P O ST O F F I C E

SANTA CLAUS REINDEER FARM

Santa Claus Office is the most mysterious place on the Arctic Circle. Here, you can meet with the timeless old man, and whisper him a little Christmas wish on his ear. Santa’s little helpers will be happy to take a photo of this memorable meeting. Santa Claus is the most known Finn in the world, and he brings joy and goodwill to all the people on the planet. Free entrance. Open daily: 10–17. Summer opening hours: 9–18. www.santaclausoffice.com

Santa’s main post office is the place where all of the letters addressed to Santa go. Each year, there are over 500 thousand of them, so it’s only natural that elves give Santa a little help in reading and replying to them. At Santa’s post office, you can send your letters with a special stamp, and have them delivered right away or for the next Christmas. Free entrance. Open daily: 10–17. Summer opening hours: 9–18. www.santaclauspostoffice.com

Santa Claus Reindeer Farm will give you a sneak peak into reindeer herding. You can pet the reindeer, feed them and make lots of photos with them. Entrance fee is 5€. You can also join the Reindeer Herder’s Chores program and experience some of the daily work at the farm, make a small souvenir, cross the Arctic Circle on one of the reindeer, and enjoy some tasty glowfried salmon. 65€ per person, 1 hour. Opening hours: Mon–Sat: 10–16. www.santaclausreindeer.fi

4

5

6

C H R I ST M AS E X H I B I T I O N

T H R E E E LV E S R E STAU R A N T

L A P L A N D R E STAU R A N T

The Christmas Exhibition showcases the different traditions of how Christmas is celebrated in Finland and around the world, as well as the history of the Christmas tree. The exhibition also includes fascinating Christmas videos, including the Finnish Broadcasting Company’s historical television broadcasts about Finnish Christmas traditions. The Christmas exhibition is situated near the Santa Claus Holiday Village. Open daily: whenever Santa is around.

The Three Elves Restaurant is situated in the newly built reception building of the Santa Claus Holiday Village. It is a great place for lunch, and probably the best place for dinner in the village. At this atmospheric restaurant you will taste the pure, genuine flavours of Lappish cuisine. Have some “Laptapas”, or the selection of best Lappish appetisers, roast whitefish or reindeer! For dessert, go for the cheesecake with fresh berries. Open daily: 8–23. www.schv.fi

Lapland restaurant, situated at the Santa Claus Reindeer Farm, is one of the most authentic restaurans in Rovaniemi. It is run by the Körkkö family who are the local reindeer herders. If you want to dive into the world of Lappish gastronomy, this is a good place to start. Here you can try dishes made from famous Lappish ingredients, such as the reindeer, salmon, mushrooms and Arctic berries. The restaurant will start its summer season on July 1st 2017. Opening hours: Mon–Fri 12–16.

7

8

9

M A RT T I I N I S H O P

SA N TA’ S S H O P P I N G C E N T R E

E L F ’ S FA R M YA R D

Marttiini knife factory in Rovaniemi turns 90 years in 2018. At Marttiini factory shop you can buy traditional Finnish and Lappish knives, as well as rare models with reindeer horn and Damascus steel. Open daily: 10–17. www.marttiini.fi.

Santa’s shopping centre is the place to buy some presents and gifts for your loved ones. Here, you will find many locally produced souvenirs, such as kuksa cups, wooden jewellery, and textiles. Open daily: 10–17.

Elf’s farm yard is situated in the forest behind Santa’s Office. Here, you can meet some sheep and hens, and do some elf chores such as treehugging and coinmaking. Entrance 10€ adult/5€ child. Open daily: 10–15. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

37


FINLAND TIPS | HAILUOTO

H

ailuoto is situated in the Gulf of Bothnia, near Oulu. It is Finland’s third-largest sea island inhabited by around a thousand of inhabitants throughout the year. Hailuoto is a part of the province of Northern Ostrobothnia, and is a great place to stop by on your way to Lapland. The views will certainly be a great reward for the trip and the island will show you how beautiful and diverse the landscapes of the North are.

The island of

Hailuoto The island can be accessed with a ferry service that is free of charge for the motorists. Ferries depart from Ritunkari harbour in Oulunsalo which is only 10 min away from Oulu airport and E75 motorway. Trip takes around 30 minutes and is an experience on its own. Hailuoto is huge and its area covers over 200 km2. The island started to rise from the Baltic Sea some 1.700 years ago and one day it will merge with the mainland. Hailuoto’s most picturesque spot is the Marjaniemi lighthouse situated on its Western shore. The lighthouse was built in 1871 and served sailors for many decades. The place offers some truly magical sunsets over the Baltic Sea. There are many pristine sand beaches where you can swim on your own responsibility. Marjaniemi is a great place for a daytrip or even an overnight in the Arctic Lighthouse Hotel. A few cosy cafes and restaurants can be found nearby. Happy sightseeing!

The Marjaniemi lighthouse is the most picturesque spot on Hailuoto.

HAILUOTO

Getting there:

Municipality in Northern Ostrobothnia, near Oulu. Population: 981. Area: 200 km2. Population density: 5/km2. The island is constantly rising due to post-glacial rebound.

Free ferry service operates between the mainland and the island. Ferry departs from Ritunkari harbour in Oulunsalo. Go there by car, taxi or bus service. Ferry info & schedule:

www.finferries.fi

WELCOME TO HAILUOTO’S

A R CT I C L I G H T H O U S E H OT E L ! “See the best views on the island!” W W W. L U O T S I H O T E L L I . F I

38

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

05–28.05.2018 FRI–SUN | 01.06–12.08.2018 EVERY DAY | 17–26.08.2018 FRI–SUN | +358 40 192 34 64 | INFO@LUOTSIHOTELLI.FI


LAPLAND TIPS | LUOSTO Once you reach the top, you will be taken into the wooden cabin where your guide will tell you all about the origin of the amethyst stone and the geology of the region. Amethyst is a form of quartz, and it takes millions of years for it to be formed. The name comes from the Greek amethystos which refers to belief that the stone reliefs alcohol intoxication. When amethyst was discovered in Lampivaara, an important decision was made: not to extract amethyst with heavy machinery, but to make the mine a tourist attraction. It would only take 5–10 years to dig everything up with machines, which would result in a giant hole on the ground — not a very pleasant site! So the amethyst is dug here only by hand, with simple picks. With the present system, it will take hundreds of years to mine it all, and the natural beauty of the place will be intact! Next, you will head to the open mining area, where you will dig for amethyst. The amethyst stone is naturally found here in abundance, so

The

Amethyst mine

A M E T H YST M I N E Lampivaaara fell near Luosto, 110 km from Rovaniemi.

www.amethystmine.fi 28.05–15.08.2018: Every day 11–17 16.08–30.09.2018: Every day 11–16 1.10–31.10.2018: Tue–Sat 11–15 18,50€/adult & 10€/child 3-12 yo.

THE AMETHYST MINE is one of the most unique attractions in Lapland. It is situated near Luosto resort some 110 km away from Rovaniemi. The mine is an absolute must place to visit if you are making a road trip in northern Lapland. Luosto’s nature is at its best in the middle of summer and early autumn. The mine is situated amidst Pyhä-Luosto national park and private motoring is now allowed here. To get to the mine, you need to park your car at Ukkoluosto parking lot just South from the Luosto centre. From here, it takes about 30–45 minutes to walk towards the Lampivaara Fell on top of which the mine resides. Guided tours to the mine start every hour from the Lampivaara cafe. A long wooden stairway leads to the top of the hill and the climb offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the amazing landscapes of the national park.

there is no need to cheat and plant stones just for the sake of tourists. In addition to amethyst, there are more simple quartz stones to be found. For the price of the entrance ticket, each visitor can take one amethyst stone, large enough to fit into one’s palm, for free. More stones can be purchased on the spot. Once you have found your amethyst, you can enjoy a tasty lunch at the mine cafe. For around 10€, the lunch includes soup of the day and bread. There is also a barbeque with firewood nearby, where you can cook your own picnic lunch. Many experienced tourists come here by mountain bikes with their own picnic supplies. The walk downhill from Lampivaara feels much easier than the climb! Back in Luosto, you can find the Little Mine Shop where more amethyst stones and jewellery are also on offer.

NEED A CAR?

Discover the Arctic!

Scandia Rent is here to help! Scandia rent is Finland’s largest car rental network with 50 offices around the country. Our fleet includes economy class cars, family & mid-class vehicles, SUVs, space vans and minibuses. Our cars are clean, reliable and our prices are very reasonable. You can pick up your car at Rovaniemi airport, Rovaniemi railway station or at our office in the city centre. Call us 24/7!

Valtakatu 26, Rovaniemi. Mon–Fri 8–17, Sat–Sun 10–14.

Tel. (24h) +358 16 342 0506

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

rovaniemi@scandiarent.fi

39

www.scandiarent.fi


NUTS Karhunkierros trail running event takes place at the Oulanka national park.

Hooked on trail running

T

rail running is a new hobby which is rising in popularity, especially among younger people. Unlike marathon races that often take place on city streets, trail running is done in the midst of the nature. With its open terrain and rugged fells, Finnish Lapland provides a totally unique setting for events of this kind. Trail running is also physically more challenging than the normal marathon, because it involves steep climbs and being constantly on the lookout for rocks, tree roots, and other obstacles on the terrain. The trails range from 30 kilometres up to 160-km-long ultra marathon distances. Northern Ultra Trail Service (or NUTS) organises several trail running events in Finland, three of which take part in Lapland and Kuusamo. One of the men behind NUTS is Jouko Kaarteenaho, who developed his love for nature through scouting when he was a little boy. In 2008, taking part in his first trail running marathon in Koli, Finland, he got truly bitten by the trail-running bug.

40

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Later, the association called NUTS was founded, consisting of Jouko’s scouting friends. Their first event NUTS Karhunkierros took place in Kuusamo in May 2013. That year the summer took some time to arrive, and some hiking trails were still covered with a thick layer of snow. “We were afraid that our first event would be a disaster, as some parts of the trail had snow up to our knees”, says Jouko. “Instead, it became an unforgettable experience for the runners, and the reputation of NUTS grew fast by word-of-mouth”. The number of participants in trail running events has grown exponentially. Jouko does not know the exact reason behind it, but suspects that it has something to do with the friendliness of the trail running community and the beauty of nature. The NUTS events are held amidst the beautiful forests and fells of Lappish national parks, which also have their limitations. The Finnish Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry sets up quotas for the maximum number of runners in order to protect the nature.

Jouko Kaarteenaho is one o the men behind NUTS.

The limit, however, went up from the 100 participants in the first year to 2,500 for the upcoming event in 2018. Even with larger quotas, NUTS Karhunkierros 2018 was sold out in a matter of days in October 2017. The competition follows the legendary Karhunkierros hiking trail of Oulanka National Park near Ruka Holiday Resort in Kuusamo. Oulanka National Park is famous for its breathtaking sceneries, and every Finn knows the name of Karhunkierros hiking trail. Still, there is room for new participants in the two other NUTS events of summer


2018. The NUTS Ylläs-Pallas event will take place on 13–14 July 2018. According to Jouko, this event is truly unique, because it is held on the amazing open terrain and rugged fells of Pallas-Ylläs National Park. The area also offers plenty of naturerelated activities in summer, and taking part in the trail running event might be a great way to spice up your vacation. Pick a suitable distance for yourself from the options of 30 km (suitable for beginners), 55 km, and 134 km. The next event organised by the NUTS team is the Pyhä Tunturimaraton on 11 August 2018. It features some shorter distances of 10, 21 and 43 kilometres, and might be a great way of having the first go on trail running. Situated at a 90-minute drive away from Rovaniemi, Pyhä is a cosy place and easy to fall in love with. Pyhä is easily accessible with a shuttle bus connection from almost every flight arriving to Rovaniemi airport. Of course, it is a good idea to start training for the events early. For this, Jouko Kaarteenaho recommends all kinds of outdoor activities as they increase your fitness naturally. Another tip from Jouko is to get proper equipment and test it out thoroughly before the race. “Well-fitting trail running shoes are an absolute must. We also have some mandatory equipment that you must take with you, such as a backpack with a water supply and an emergency blanket. The competition is quite long and aid stations are situated at rather long distances apart”. Info about trail running in Lapland: nuts.fi & trailrunning.fi

NUTS Ylläs–Pallas takes you up to the rugged fells of Lapland.

Pyhä Tunturimaraton is organised in August at the cosy Pyhä Ski Resort.

NUTS KARHUNKIERROS 25–26.5.2018 – Sold out

N U T S Y L L ÄS – PA L L AS 13–14.7.2018

P Y H Ä T U N T U R I M A R AT O N 11.8.2018

Event takes place in the beautiful Oulanka national park near Ruka, Kuusamo. Distances 31, 53, 80, 160 km. Registration for the 2019 event begins in October 2018.

Trail running race amidst the rugged fells of Pallas-Ylläs national park. See what true Lapland looks like! Choose between distances of 30, 55 and 134 km.

Trail running event near the cosy Pyhä Ski Resort. The race will take you on top of the Pyhä fells and into pristine forests. Distances are 10, 21 and 43 km.

nutskarhunkierros.fi

nutsyllaspallas.com

tunturimaraton.fi

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

41


Secrets of the horn IRENE AND ARI KANGASNIEMI ARE A UNIQUE COUPLE WHO KNOW MORE ABOUT HANDICRAFTS THAN PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE IN LAPLAND. YOU CAN VISIT THEIR WORKSHOP IN ROVANIEMI AND FIND OUT ABOUT LOCAL TRADITIONS, THE LOCAL WAY OF LIFE, AND THE SECRETS OF WORKING WITH NATURAL MATERIALS SUCH AS WOOD AND HORN.

42

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


Irene and Ari Kangasniemi will show you how to make Lappish handicrafts.

T

oday, making traditional handicrafts is a vanishing skill. In the old days, each family knew how to make things by hand, because their everyday lives depended on it. Nowadays, when you can buy almost anything from the supermarket, the knowledge of handicrafts is slowly getting forgotten. Luckily, there are some exceptions! The secrets of Lappish handicrafts are well maintained at the Kangasniemi family workshop. The owners Irene and Ari Kangasniemi have been involved in handmade crafts for decades. In 1981, Irene started learning about handicrafts at a local workshop. In 1983, she went to work in the Inari region, where she met her future husband Ari. He originally worked as a car mechanic, but he did not shy away from handicrafts. These skills were running strong in his family. After spending a decade in southern Finland, they decided to return to Rovaniemi, where they started a workshop in 1995. By then, they had also realised that there were many people who were willing to actually see how handicrafts are made, and designed their workshop accordingly. Watching them work is truly fascinating. Ari works with reindeer horn and wood. He produces beautiful knife handles from reindeer horn. Every one of them is a piece of beauty and a collector’s item. He also makes traditional Lappish kuksa cups out of birch gnarl. Such cups are extremely durable and ecological. You can use them on hikes over and over for decades, without producing any waste. Irene’s main material is reindeer skin. Together with Ari, they own a herd of reindeer, and, in accordance with Lappish tradition, not a single part of the reindeer is wasted. Irene produces reindeer leather herself out of the thick reindeer pelt, and dyes it with natural materials to achieve different colours. She then uses the leather to produce souvenirs, clothes, and even shaman drums. Tourists are welcome to visit their workshop. Their “Secret of the Horn” program is available via local tour operators. A visit can be booked from the Rovaniemi Tourist Office. The program includes Irene’s fascinating presentation about the Lappish people and their reindeer herding traditions. She explains a lot about the traditional Lappish handicrafts and different materials that are used. You will also learn to assemble your own souvenir which you can then take home with you!

You can make a pouche for herbal footbath with local healing herbs.

Irene says that she has always been drawn to shaman drums, for no logical reason. She even became skilled at making them. Irene was always extremely interested in the history of the region and the local people, and she has hours of fascinating stories to tell about them. At some point, she felt an urge to discover more about her own heritage. Unveiling her ancestry beyond the generation of her grandfather proved to be challenging. Her grandfather had 26 children and was already around 70 when Irene’s mother, now 86, was born. Irene did not get a chance to ask her grandfather about her own grandparents. A few years ago, Irene bumped into a friend who, much to her surprise, mentioned that he was her distant cousin. It turned out that he had their family charts dating back 8 generations. Irene managed to track her ancestry back to Aikia Aikianpoika, a Sami shaman who had been born in 1591 and died in 1671 after having been sentenced to death for witchcraft. She now believes that she has found one reason for her obsession with shaman drums. To honour her ancestor, she even made him a coat out of reindeer leather, one that he would never have the chance to receive. Irene’s husband Ari is not much of a talker, and he is happy to let his wife do all the explaining. Apparently, Ari is not very fond of “supermarket food”, and that pretty much determines their diet. Most of the food that they consume comes from the forest, including reindeer meat and fish. Irene is passionate about berries and herbs. Every summer, she fills up a few freezers with selfharvested berries and wild herbs. This summer, she is launching a new program with a focus on the healing herbs of Lapland. During a visit, guests will make herbal footbath pouches that contain the following wonderful ingredients: birch leaf, camomile, meadowsweet, heather, juniper, and raspberry. The participants will take their pouches with them to be used at home. Dried herbs keep their healing aromas for up to 3 years. Nowadays, Ari and Irene are training a new generation of handcrafters to whom their skills will be passed on. Ari’s nephew Jukka is completing his artisan degree and regularly works at the workshop. A visit to the workshop will be an unforgettable experience on every level! At the workshop you can buy beautiful Lappish handicrafts, produced by Ari and Irene.

Kangasniemi Workshop:

www.hornwork.fi Book your visit at Rovaniemi Tourist Office:

www.visitrovaniemi.fi

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

43


KAFFE & HARRI:

THE PERFECT

DYNAMIC

DUO HARRI TARVAINEN IS ONE OF LAPLAND’S TOP

PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO SPENDS HIS TIME CAPTURING THE REGION’S NATURAL BEAUTY. HIS DOG KAFFE IS HIS LOYAL COMPANION, A MODEL AND A SOCIAL MEDIA STAR.

kaffegram

H

arri Tarvainen was born in 1983 in Oulunsalo, near the city of Oulu. As a child, he was more into arts than sports. When other boys were out playing ice hockey, he would rather spend his time at an art school. A turning point in his life came at the age of eleven, when he received his first snowboard as a birthday present. Finally, he had found a sport he liked! Later, at the age of 15, he got his first camera, a Canon EOS300. Photography would become a bridge between his strive for the visual arts and his love of the winter sports. According to Harri, taking photos of snowboarding was the best and most demanding photography training anyone could have. 44

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

harritarvainen

Later, he entered a senior high school of the arts. There he found an abandoned photo lab which he restored. Harri preferred spending more time in the lab than in classes, learning how to develop photos. “It’s a magical moment when you can finally see how an image emerges on a blank sheet of paper floating in the developer liquid”, says Harri. In 2003, Harri moved to Rovaniemi to study graphic design in the University of Lapland. He has fond memories of his time at university. The spirit of freedom that was present at the university as well as the support from other students were as important to Harri as the study curriculum. Living in Rovaniemi, he enjoyed the city’s proximity to nature.

Kaffe & Harri having fun on the ice of the Gulf of Bothnia.


“Rovaniemi has many great natural sites: the Ounasvaara fell, the Arctic Circle hiking area, the Santavaara fell… Even the cross-country ski tracks pass right by the door of the student dormitory”, says Harri. His commercial success in photography began when he started publishing some of his photos in snowboarding magazines. This opened doors for him and he found new assignments and clients. “I had always thought of photography as more of a hobby. There came a time, however, when I finally surrendered to the idea that this is my real job and don’t have to look any further”, says Harri. Since 2013, photography has been Harri’s full-time job. He is intensively involved in the travel marketing of Lapland and takes photos for the Ruka and Pyhä Ski Resorts via the Kota Collective company. He finds the Lapland travel industry fascinating. “Finnish Lapland is literally the coolest place on the planet right now, at least in my opinion!” says Harri. According to Harri, today’s world is struck with an outdoors boom. He says that people are looking for real and authentic experiences rather than those that are deliberately designed and produced. With its vast wilderness area, Lapland can provide everyone with unique experiences and unexpected discoveries. “Nowadays, people can make a living just by tapping away on a phone or computer all day without stepping out the door. Of course, that’s an amazing thing, but to balance that in their free time, people are striving for real, even primitive experiences. The feeling of being cold, hungry, muscles aching after a hike, clothes dirty with mud: all the things that can happen to you in nature”, says Harri.

View from fell Santavaara in Rovaniemi.

Finnish Lapland is literally the coolest place one the planet right now!

WHEN HARRI MET KAFFE Four years ago, a curly-coated retriever named Kaffe stepped into Harri’s life. His name stands for a dog’s dark fur, and for coffee, Harri’s favourite drink. Thanks to Kaffe, Harri has found new kind of joy in his photography. Taking photos for a living, he wasn’t keen on using the camera in his spare time. Kaffe, who by breed very much complements Harri’s love for the outdoors, changed all that. Harri & Kaffe are a perfect dynamic duo.

Kaffe is a curly coated retriever who shares Harri’s love for adventures.

Today, Harri is again living at his home region of Oulunsalo. According to Harri, the minds of the dog and the photographer are filled with similar curiosity. With Kaffe, he rediscovered his home area by doing what he calls “our weekday voyages of discovery”. He finds an interesting spot on the map and sets out to explore it with Kaffe. He often takes his camera with him, finding inspiration in documenting their journeys. “Taking photos with Kaffe doesn’t feel like a job. We are a perfect dynamic duo”, says Harri. Their numerous weekday journeys have resulted in a lot of photos. To share them, Harri registered a special Instagram profile under Kaffe’s name. At first, he felt a little bit embarrassed to have his dog on Instagram, but later he found that it was actually a pretty cool thing. “Doing Kaffe’s Instagram has taught me a lot about how the social media works!” Kaffe’s follower count has recently reached 21,000. According to Harri, on Instagram he has found ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

45


support, inspiration, and new friends. Harri is right about that. I’ve been following his @kaffegram profile for a few years now, and I finally decided to meet Harri and Kaffe in person. Before conducting the interview, we agreed to meet on the ice of the Gulf of Bothnia near Oulunsalo, where many of the dynamic duo’s adventures take place. Kaffe emerges from the back of the car, makes my acquaintance, and we start walking towards the ice. It’s the beginning of April and the ice is still quite thick. Harri has trained Kaffe well. Occasionally, he commands Kaffe to retain his spot for a photo. Still, most of the time Kaffe is running around like the Energizer Bunny, making the process of taking photos both challenging and fun. Harri is correct: this doesn’t feel like a job! After the photo shoot, we head to the local bar to discuss Harri’s work and hobbies. Entering the bar, it becomes evident to me that Harri is a frequent guest here: one of the bar’s walls is stacked full of Harri’s best photos. Kaffe is patiently waiting under the table while we discuss their adventures.

RUKA SKI RESORT Ruka Ski Resort in Kuusamo is a second home to Harri. He has been visiting this place since childhood, and his family even owns a holiday cottage there. In Harri’s view, Ruka provides the most amazing opportunities for snowboarding and alpine skiing in the region. Now, as a grown-up, he still regularly enjoys cruising around the park or half-pipe on his snowboard. According to the administrative division, Ruka and Kuusamo belong to the region of Northern Ostrobothnia with the capital in Oulu, and not to Lapland. Still, for Harri Ruka feels like Lapland. “With its Nordic nature and snowy popcorn trees, Ruka delivers well on the expectations that the Lapland brand evokes”, says Harri. Due to the diverse nature of the area, Kuusamo is one of Harri’s favourite places to take photos. One of Finland’s most popular national parks, Oulanka, is located in Kuusamo. Harri gives a warm recommendation for visiting this park. According to him, Oulanka has it all, from deep Siberia-like forests and marshes to serpentines of wild rivers and rugged fell-tops. “River Oulankajoki is a perfect place for canoeing and rafting. These activities can be booked from local tour operators and are accessible even for beginners and families”. The Konttainen fell near the Ruka Ski Resort is another place that Harri recommends for yearround visiting. The fell is part of the Oulanka National Nark, but you can get quite near it by car. The fell is rather steep, but there are ladders that lead to the top. According to Harri, winter is the most beautiful time to visit Konttainen, as then it is entirely covered with snow. He also recommends the fell for freeriding, but you must be an experienced freerider and have a local guide with you. 46

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Snowboarder Arto Saraniemi enjoying the Ruka Ski Resort.

Kaffe heading down the slope of fell Konttainen in Ruka.


PYHÄ In recent years, Harri has also discovered the Pyhä resort and adores its calm and relaxed ambience. According to Harri, Pyhä is a unique place for freeriding. Some of the off-piste areas are even accessible with regular lifts and are suitable for beginners. For more experienced freeriders, Harri recommends the Tajukangas area or, if you are adventurous, the Noitatunturi fell. You will need to walk on snowshoes for an hour to get there, but you will be rewarded with great experiences and freedom to choose your own lines. “In Pyhä, you can meet some of the most adventurous nature enthusiasts in Finland. You can always find a buddy to accompany you on your adventure to the top of the fell”, says Harri. Pyhä is also home to the Pyhä-Luosto National Park. It is best enjoyed in late summer and early autumn, when the mosquito season is over. “A hiking trip from Pyhä to the nearby Luosto resort is an amazing experience that will offer you magnificent landscapes!” says Harri.

Hiking trail between Pyhä and Luosto.

HARRI’S PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS 1 . PA C K YO U R B A G

Literally! Being out in nature, you never know what you might encounter, so you should not head outdoors empty-handed. In addition to a camera with spare batteries, one should have a set of matches, a Leatherman knife, first aid supplies, some energy bars, toilet paper, and in summer, a mosquito repellent. A light down jacket is also a great accessory, as well as a power bank to charge your smartphone.

2 . S TAT E O F M I N D

Curiosity is one of the virtues of a good photographer. Behind the camera, you might notice some little details that you otherwise wouldn’t. Spot the shadows on the snow, the shapes of the snowy trees, a bird’s feather lying on the ground, or your own hands tarnished with ash from setting up the fire. Live the moment and expect the unexpected!

3. FRAMING

Before you press the shutter button, think, is there any way to make the shot even more awesome? Usually, this kind of thinking yields results. Step aside, or towards the subject, kneel down and find an interesting foregrownd for your shot. Take lots of photos. Sometimes, making a truly great shot requires taking a few dozen of training ones!

4 . S T O RY

A hiking trip might culminate with a great sunset, but there are many things that should happen before a truly great shot gets captured. I always try to take several types of shots: a wide landscape shot, a tight detail shot, as well as a portrait. Different angles help to tell the story better!

5 . E N J OY T H E M O M E N T

Looking for that perfect shot is usually fun, but can become a tedious formality. Take it easy on yourself and remember: there are some days when it just doesn’t work out. If that happens, just pack your camera and enjoy the nature. Inspiration has its own ways to find you when it’s not being forced.

Harri & Kaffe enjoying a trip to the Oulanka national park.

Follow Harri and Kaffe:

@kaffegram @harritarvainen

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

47


A L O N E W I T H YO U R H E A D

T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: A N N A PA K K A N E N

M

y name is Anna Pakkanen and I live in central Lapland, in a small village called Pyhä next to the PyhäLuosto National Park. I am a graphic designer and currently I work for the National Park. I have a difficult addiction to nature. Even though my work is connected with nature, I’m still using almost all of my free time out and about, on trails, off trails, in the woods and open fell areas. Welcome to a small peek into my life! A young man was thinking about making a big change in his life. He asked me what it’s like to live where I live. He was planning to move away from the city and was not quite sure if he would like it here. I had told him in response to that question: ”here you are alone with your head”. There is not much to distract you, not that many activities to choose from and there are times when there’s almost no one around. If you don’t know how to be with yourself, you might find it difficult here. ”Here” is not the end of the world. Pyhä is a small village in central Lapland, actually a combination of a ski resort and an old village. There are approximately 48

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

200 people living in the village of Pyhä year round and about 265.000 people visit Pyhä-Luosto annually. This village lives on seasonal tourism, and during some seasons it can be very busy while dead quiet during the other ones. People and tourists come here because of the nature, and some stay for good. There are big fells, deep gorges and massive rocky formations shaped by the glaciers and everything is surrounded by the old growth forests and beautiful “aapa” mires. The area has a history as a sacred place: the name ”Pyhä” means sacred or holy in Finnish. The forest Sami people used to live here, giving sacrifices to their gods on the rocky ridges of the Pyhä fells. The magnificent natural wonders of this area were protected exactly 80 years ago, as the first National Park in Finland, Pyhätunturi, was founded. I am no different. I used to live in a city but found myself wanting out of it every weekend. I too came here for the nature. Plus, I got a job opportunity where I can combine my current skills and my love for nature. Now, I live in an old log house with a view towards the highest fell in the Pyhä-Luosto National Park. As I sip my morning tea, listen to the fire crackling in the fireplace, I can unhurriedly plan what

trail to take that day. I can start from my doorstep if I want. What about the business of being alone with your head? That is probably one of the most important reasons why I am here. My head needs time to be alone. I need silent trods trough the forests, sun in the middle of the night, the tiny honeysucle flowers that fill the air with their intoxicating scent, dark approaching storms, the smell after a rainfall and fell tops from where I can see far enough to have enough space for everything in my head. Pyhä is not for everyone, but right now, it is the place for me. And the best part is, even if you are just visiting here, you can still experience the same feelings. The nature is so grand, it will make you humble, even on a daytrip. You just need to remember to pay attention, notice that funny looking old log, wonder how that flower can take the winds on a fell top, admire how beautiful a rotting leaf can look like and imagine the forces that have sculpted the rocky shapes. If you pass through all of this with your mind somewhere else, or maybe you’d rather be somewhere else, then perhaps Pyhä is not for you. But I would recommend to try, because a little holiness in your life definitely won’t do you no harm!


A N N A PA K K A N E N BASED IN: Pyhä, Lapland. INTO: Hiking, fishing, drawing & painting, handicrafts, ski touring & freeriding. OCCUPATION: Working at Visitor Centre Naava and Pyhä-Luosto National Park. Also a freelance graphic designer.

pakkanen_anna

View from Noitatunturi fell just before the storm, Pyhä-Luosto National Park.

A N N A’ S T I P S F O R E A S T E R N L A P L A N D

KIVITUNTURI HIKING T R A I L , S AV U K O S K I Hiking, daytrip

L U O S T O N AT U R E H I K I N G T R A I L, S O DA N K Y L Ä Hiking, daytrip

NUORTTIJOKI RIVER, S AV U K O S K I Hiking & fishing, 2-5 days

Kivitunturi fell situated in Savukoski region is a true Lappish wilderness on a small scale. The trail offers various terrains and views from old forests to stony gorges and open fell-top sceneries. In addition to many nature highlights, there are often quite a few hikers. There are two trails to choose from: 5,8 km (easy to medium) and 9 km (medium to difficult).

A proper 18 km day hike in Pyhä-Luosto National Park will make your feet tired but your mind happy. The trail rises twice to the top of Ukko-Luosto fell but also gives calmness of old growth forests and wonderful views. The trail can be split into two days by booking the Yrjölä rental hut, where you can bathe in a sweet wilderness sauna with fell views. Difficulty: medium to difficult.

Nuorttijoki river meanders next to the Russian border, in Urho Kekkonen National Park. A 40km hiking trail circles the river, a popular place to fish for grayling, trout and whitefish. To reach Nuorttijoki, one must drive endless gravel roads but in return you get the peace only a true wilderness can give. The hiking trail is medium difficulty but the area is remote and wilderness skills are required. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

49


Y L L Ä S T H E O U T D O O R H E AV E N

T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: A L E X A N D E R K U Z N E T S O V

Admiring the Midnight sun from the top of Kellostapuli fell.

Y

lläs is situated 170 km north from the Arctic Circle. The area is famous for its winter activities, but the place is equally fascinating in summer. The landscape of Ylläs is dominated by seven beautiful fells with bold and rugged tops. The combined population of the two little villages in the area, Ylläsjärvi and Äkäslompolo, is just about 700 people. Still, Ylläs has all the necessary tourist services including hotels, restaurants, shops, and activities. The two villages are connected by a scenic route that indeed offers some very beautiful sceneries. The nearest airport is situated in Kittilä, a 30-minute drive from Ylläs. The airport bus will take you all to Ylläs. If you rent a car, you can get around more easily, but it is also easy to move around using a combination of walking, biking, and taking a taxi. This is the second summer since I discovered the beauty of Ylläs. Now, I am heading there with intention, and I will be bringing some friends! We will have 4 days and 3 nights to spend here. 50

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

D AY 1 – T H E N AT I O N A L PA R K On the first day, we arrive in Ylläs in the early evening. The Ylläs area is home to the beautiful Pallas-Ylläs National Park that stretches out to the wilderness for dozens of kilometres. We plan to do a short sightseeing hike and spend the night in a tent in the forest, because it will save us some money, and it is good fun as well! We leave our car near Visitor Centre Kellokas. It is already closed, but during the day tourists can go there and find lots of interesting information about the national park and get some maps and tips on where to go. We are headed towards Varkaankuru, a ravine that lies between the Yllästunturi and Kellostapuli fells. With a nature trail to guide the way, this is an easy destination for families. While we are walking through the beautiful forest, we see a herd of reindeer just a few dozen metres away. They sense us and run away into the forest. After a short walk, we reach the stream of Varkaanoja and find a lean-to with a campfire site. It’s dinner time! It doesn’t take much time to fry some sausages and make a pot of

coffee. Why does coffee always taste best if prepared on the campfire? By the time we have finished dinner, it is already past 10 pm. Not to worry about darkness! It is the beginning of July, still the season of the Midnight Sun in Lapland. We climb to the top of Kellostapuli fell to admire this beautiful natural phenomenon. There is just nothing better than this! It’s time for some sleep. We set up our tents and crawl into our sleeping bags. Luckily, the mosquitos can’t enter the tent. Sleep comes easily with all this fresh air around us.


Fatbiking through a field of hare’s-tail cottongrass.

D AY 2 – F A T B I K I N G Next day we have breakfast at the leanto. It’s such a magical feeling to start your day in the midst of the wilderness! After breakfast, we go back and drive to the Sport Resort Ylläs where our apartment is waiting. A quick shower, a change of clothes, and we are ready to go out again! For today, we have chosen an adventure with the local fatbiking guru Timo Veijalainen from Team Sportia. He is a real outdoors addict who knows even the smallest pebbles here. For us, however, it’s the first time riding fatbikes. I feel lucky to have chosen an electric fatbike, which is equipped with a battery. The fatbikes feel surprisingly smooth and easy to steer. Before we enter the woods, Timo leads us through a meadow filled with the soft whiteness of hare’s-tail cottongrass. The climb starts to steepen and I switch on the electric assist. We arrive to the top of Kukastunturi fell. From here you can see the landscape for miles around. Surprisingly, there is a little lake on top of the fell, and, apparently, it is the favourite hang-out place for a huge reindeer herd! Our cameras start

Trailrunning on top Kesänki fell.

Gondola lift at Sport Resort Ylläs.

singing! After a short break for hot tea and sandwiches, it’s time to go back.

we make it to the top of Kesänkitunturi fell. Boy, what a view! I will return here with the camera! The rest of the race is a struggle, but after about five hours we manage to cross the finish line! Tonight, we feel that we deserve some pampering. After a sauna bath and a little rest, we head out to the best restaurant in the area, the Aurora Estate. Its head chef Sirly Schinmann prepares us a wonderful three-course meal with reindeer meat, risotto, Arctic crab, and more.

D AY 3 – T R A I L RUNNING July is also the month when the NUTS Ylläs-Pallas trail running event is taking place. It gathers hundreds of sports enthusiasts who compete on trails ranging from 30 to 134 km. Thirty kilometres will do for us beginners! The competition departs right at the Sport Resort Ylläs where our apartment is situated. The runners are equipped with backpacks filled with water bottles and energy bars. Ready-steady-go! The race starts with a steep climb that takes us all the way round Yllästunturi fell. Next, we descend to the familiar Varkaankuru ravine where we just spent our first night in Ylläs. Good memories! The trail takes us towards the beautiful Lake Kesänkijärvi. Fishing programs are also available here, or you can just walk on the lakeshore and admire the landscape. Next, we encounter the steepest climb in the area, the Pirunkuru ravine. The path turns rocky and hard. Slowly but surely

D AY 4 – B Y E - B Y E , YLLÄS! Waking up on the last day is a challenge. Our legs can still feel yesterday’s rough climbs. Before leaving Ylläs, we decide to take a final excursion to the top of Yllästunturi fell. Luckily, we don’t have to walk as the Gondola lift takes us there. Yllästunturi is the highest of the seven fells of the area, and the view that opens from here is breath-taking. The little cafe on top of the fell cheers us up with tasty burgers and hot chocolate. Ylläs, we will definitely come back! Info about Ylläs: www.yllas.fi

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

51


52

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


The owners of the Aurora Estate Sirly Schinmann and Heidi Seikkula.

T

the Arora Estate was founded by Sirly Schinmann and Heidi Seikkula in a small village of Ylläsjärvi near the Ylläs Resort in 2015. The ladies had known each other for years and had worked together before. When a business opportunity presented itself, they could not let it slip away. Their skill sets complement each other perfectly. Heidi brought in her nearly 20 years of experience in the restaurant and hospitality industry. Sirly’s life journey had taken her around the globe, to places like New Zealand and Norway, where she had polished her chef ’s skills before making Ylläs her home. It took a while for the ladies to finalise their concept. When the Aurora Estate opened its doors in November 2015, it was unlike any other businesses operating in Ylläs. “We knew from the start that we needed to be special, look different, make unique food, and provide fine and friendly service”, says Heidi. Today, the Aurora Estate includes a boutique hotel with seven cosy rooms and 14 beds, a restaurant, catering and private chef service, and sauna programs. Several Finnish celebrities have already visited the hotel as guests, and events such as marriage proposals and romantic weddings have taken place under its roof. In peak season, Heidi keeps herself busy by organising private programs for the hotel guests. The programs comprise snowmobiling, husky rides, and, of course, festive dinners at the hotel tepee. Catering even for the most demanding taste, the Aurora Estate is one of the best places to dine in Lapland. The restaurant relies on pure Nordic ingredients such as the Arctic crab, wild reindeer, and cod. Most of the ingredients come from local producers in Finland and in Sweden whose border is just 40 km away. In summer, the hotel owners harvest mushrooms and wild herbs from local forests. According to Sirly, local, ethical, and ecological food is today’s trend. “I spent my childhood in the countryside in Estonia and Finland. We raised all the animals and grew all our food ourselves. I have known the things that are becoming popular today already for a long time. I feel that I am privileged”, says Sirly. Sirly, the oldest of four sisters, started cooking for her family at a young age, but she never really thought of a career as a chef. When she realised

Deluxe room at the Aurora estate.

that the famous MasterChef franchise was coming to Finland, she applied and finished third. That finally sealed her fate. The dishes prepared in the Aurora Estate kitchen are engaging in many ways. They are visually impressive and simple, and yet reveal layers of textures. The appetizers are light but packed full with flavour: delicate mushroom soup, crayfish, sugar-salted salmon, reindeer carpaccio… The main dishes make use of the best ingredients in season. Some of the most recent gems that I had the pleasure of sampling were reindeer filet, literally melting in my mouth, and fried arctic char. The Aurora Estate is also one of the rare places in Lapland where you can have risotto prepared the way it should be — crunchy al dente. And, speaking of desserts, I very rarely take any, but I would never miss one at the Aurora Estate! Of course, wine can be as important an element of the dining experience as the food itself. Many of the wines served at the Aurora Estate come from the ecological Fontanafredda estate in Barolo, Italy. “Nowadays, it’s very common that the house wine is the cheapest one in the selection. I believe that the house wine should represent the spirit of the house, and that’s why we have the prestigious Barolo as our house wine”, says Heidi. One of the amazing experiences that a person can have at the Aurora Estate is traditional smoke sauna. The preparation of the sauna for bathing takes 8 hours. While it is warming up, smoked reindeer is made by attaching the meat to the sauna ceiling. Smoke sauna has a unique ambience. Top the experience with a dip in the cold lake and you will uncover new sides to life! This year, the Aurora Estate has been nominated for Boutique Hotel Awards. I have no doubt that the ladies will do well there. I have one final thing to ask the ladies, “Why is this premium restaurant situated in the middle of Lapland, instead of, for example, in the busy Helsinki city centre?” “Well, we feel very happy here. We know this place and its people, and we are happy to invite you to join us here”, says Sirly.

AURORA ESTATE Tirroniementie 4C, Ylläsjärvi Open from 6.6.2018. Tuesday–Saturday 17–21.

Info and reservations: info@auroraestate.fi +358 20 734 0800 www.auroraestate.fi

Summer events: 22.6.2018 – Midsummer party 8.9.2018 – Octoberfest

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

53


E N C H A N T E D BY

L

E

V

I T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: VIRPI MÄKILÄ

THE WRITER IS A PHOTOGRAPHER AND OUTDOORS ENTHUSIAST BASED IN LEVI, LAPLAND.

virpula

I

spent my childhood in southwest Finland and already then the woods were my playground. The forest was a place where I could let my imagination fly high above the distant clouds. A place where I could recharge my batteries. A neverending love story with Mother Nature. We will stay together forever. My dearest hobby is to spend time in the wilds with my two dogs Räpsy and Seita, both genuine Finnish Lapponian herders by breed. I also love taking photos, and so always carry a camera with me. And yes, I take lots of photos! Every moment we spend outdoors is like a great adventure, all year round. The biggest secrets of Lapland are the magical light and our eight seasons. In summer, 54

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Lapland enjoys a period of the midnight sun, “nightless nights” in Finnish. It is a time when the sun does not set below the horizon — there is light all through the day and night. It is pretty cool. The midnight sun is really something you should experience at least once in your life! And there is no better place to witness this phenomenon than Levi. After the blooming summer (believe it or not, it is possible to have a proper garden also in Lapland) it is time for another season, the one we call “ruska”. The landscape is painted with the copper of the woods, the red of the leaves and the gold of the wetlands. The magical Lappish “ruska” is a vibrant masterpiece of the autumn colours. The bright shades of the autumn leaves act as messengers of the

upcoming change; it is like a melancholy farewell to the summer days, and it serves as a reminder of the dark and cold winter that is already looming around the corner. For me, Instagram is the place to share the photos I have taken, mostly nature photos that include my dogs. I have met many people who share my enthusiasm — most of my Instagram friends have totally fallen in love with Lappish landscapes, or with dogs. I have also met some of them face-to-face, and I can truly say Instagram is an opportunity to find new friends from all over the world. So if you are a member, look me up at @virpula and @breaklevi. I am happy to give you some good tips about places to visit and about a few secret photo locations!


VIRPI’S TOP 3 TIPS FOR LEVI

B E R RY- P I C K I N G Did you know that the wild berries of the north are real superfood? The long summer days and cool climate make forest berries more aromatic and increase their pigment content. Their unique aroma and vivid colours are the products of flavonoids and other polyphenols. You really should taste fresh cloudberries, bilberries, and lingonberries!

N I G H T L E S S N I G H T, ENDLESS LIGHT There is nothing better than going on a hike under the midnight sun with my two dogs. It is such an incredible feeling to sit by a calm lake in the middle of the night or on top of a fell surrounded by complete silence and feel the golden sun cherish your cheekbones. Nothing more, nothing less — enjoy the moment! My favourite hiking places in Levi are Kätkätunturi and the Ice Age Trail. For longer hikes we head on to the magnificent Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. The landscape changes enormously with the seasons: in summer, the midnight light is enchanting, while the autumn brings on the blazing colours — on foot, you have time to fully enjoy the beauty of nature! And if you are lucky, you may see the first Northern Lights already in September.

FISHING Fishing is a year-round activity in Finland; only the methods and the species included in the catch vary according to season. River Ounasjoki in Kittilä is the largest free-flowing river in Finland, and there are also several lakes where to catch fish in this region. Would you like to catch a grayling or whitefish or trout? You can fish from the shore or from a boat, whichever you prefer. You can also choose to go spin fishing or fly fishing. Angling with a hook and line is free of charge for people under 18 and over 65. Others need a fishing licence, which you can buy for a week or for a year. I can already taste the aroma of a freshly-caught grayling grilled on open fire!

BEST COFFEE IN TOWN À la Carte Open daily Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi Puh. +358 16 3215 500

Ravintola-Kiisa ravintola_kiisa

Coffee House & Bar Levi | Open daily

Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi Puh. +358 16 3215 500

BreakSokosHotelLevi ALL ABOUT breaklevi

Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Puh. +358 16 3215 500

CoffeeHouseLevi 55 coffeehouselevi


L A P L A N D P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S

PA R A D I S E

T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: R AYA N N E L Z E I N

M

y name is Rayann Elzein and I am a French photographer. I live in the Netherlands and I often travel throughout the world. The Inari area in Finnish Lapland is the place where I return every chance I have to rest, to enjoy the nature and, of course, to photograph it. The Inari municipality lies about 350 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle and is almost as far north as you can go in 56

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Finland, with only the Utsjoki municipality further north. It encompasses the town of Ivalo, where the northernmost airport of the European Union is located, as well as the ski resort of Saariselkä and, of course, the village of Inari itself. Interesting localities like Menesjärvi, Kaamanen or Nellim are also in the municipality. I first discovered Inari in the winter of 2012 when, like many other people, I initially just wanted to see the Northern Lights. I was lucky to be successful with this by seeing them on my very first

night, with a strength that years later I have only rarely seen again. A real Aurora Borealis addiction grew into me, so I kept returning to Inari several times every winter and staying for longer periods. This allowed me to get acquainted with the locals. There are some people in Inari that I can really call good friends now. And stronger of all, I was for the first time in my life really feeling connected with nature and all that it has to offer. After spending all this time in the Inari area in winter, my first trip in the


summer of 2016 was a true revelation. Lapland is the place of rivers and forests, of lakes and barren fell tops, of golden light and pastel colours, sometimes all at the same time. When in winter you can really feel that life of the locals is all about the snow and Aurora tourism, I realised that in the summer months they appear more relaxed, more like their true selves, feelings that I also share now. I can hike for kilometres, stay for hours at a fireplace, without meeting anyone. I never really manage to find this solitude in winter. I am not saying that there are no tourists in summer, but their numbers are by far outnumbered by the winter visitors. Summer in Lapland means that I also discovered the amazing light of the Midnight Sun. Due to the axial tilt of the Earth, the sun does not set for extended periods of time north to the Arctic Circle. This is what is called the Midnight Sun. In Inari, the Midnight Sun period extends from approximately 21 May to 22 July. Imagine yourself being immersed in 24 hours daylight, with the sun staying above the horizon even during the “night” time. There, the Golden Hour does not last for just half an hour around sunrise and sunset. No, it lasts non-stop between 10 PM and 4 AM. A true paradise for photographers! Further south, you always have to rush to get the shot at sunset or sunrise, because you know that the light will only last for a few minutes. In Inari, you can take as much time as you want, to not only compose your photos, but also just take it all in for yourself. I really

advise you to do so. Sometimes, it is good to forget that we carry a camera. If you are lucky, summer is also the time of year when you can see the recently born reindeer calves wandering in the wilderness with their mothers. The mothers will be protective of their young ones, so approaching them is not an option. Just slow down, relax and watch them from a distance. It is in Inari that I have really discovered who I want to be as a person and as a photographer. My time there has been a real eye-opener on how fragile the environment is and especially in the Arctic regions. I hope that you can experience the same kind of revelations on who you are and who you want to be when you visit this extraordinary nature in the far north of Finnish Lapland.

R AYA N N E L Z E I N Rayann Elzein is a French photographer who fell in love with Inari region of Lapland in 2012. Nowadays, he visits Inari several times per year to capture some amazing shots of northern lights and midnight sun. rezphotography www.rez-photography.com

R AYA N N ’ S T O P 3 I N A R I T I P S

K A U N I S PÄ Ä F E L L

Kaunispää fell is located above Saariselkä with an altitude of 438 m. You can either hike there from the village or take the easy way and drive all the way to the top by the asphalted road. Walk to the top of the observation tower. From there, you will have a 360 degree view on the Inari area, the Urho Kekkonen National Park, the Kiilopää fell, and even all the way to Russia in the East.

OTSAMO FELL

Otsamo fell is located just outside of the Inari village, and has an altitude of 418 m. There are several hiking trails leading to the top, with the shortest one requiring just under 2 hours to reach the summit. A shelter and fireplace are free to use at the top, so don’t forget to bring some sausages for your diner under the Midnight Sun. The view towards Lake Inari is exceptional, but feel free to look around and take it all in.

JUUTUANJOKI RIVER

Juutuanjoki river flows right through the village of Inari. A couple of kilometres upstream, one of the trails leading to the Otsamo fell starts, but you don’t need to go that far. Near the suspended bridge that crosses the river, I love to stop at the fireplace and listen to the roar of the river rapids just in front of me. You can even walk there on a very easy trail all the way from the village, but still feel a total immersion in nature. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

57


58

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


ФИНЛЯНДИЯ | ИНФОРМАЦИЯ

НА МАШИНЕ ПО ФИНЛЯНДИИ

П

еред поездкой в Финляндию стоит проверить исправность ближнего и дальнего света и сигналов поворота. Дети до трех лет должны путешествовать в специально закрепленном детском кресле. Ввоз антирадаров (точнее, радар-декторов) в Финляндию запрещен. Если его обнаружат, то устройство конфискуют, а вы получите штраф. В Финляндии даже днем пользуются ближним светом. В целях безопастности все пассажиры, включая пассажиров на заднем сидении, должны быть пристегнуты. Максимально допусти-

мая скорость за пределами населенного пункта — 100 км/ч летом, а зимой — 80 км/ч. В городе действует ограничение скорости 50 км/ч. В Финляндии штрафуют за превышение скорости в 6 км/ч и выше. Минимальный штраф, даже для иностранца, составит порядка 170€. Глубина протектора летних шин должна быть не менее 1,6 мм, а зимних шин не менее 3 мм. На зимнюю резину в Лапландии начинают переходит в первой половине октября. Весь север Финляндии, в том числе Лапландия и регионы Куусамо и

Кайнуу, являются зонами оленеводческого промысла. Это значит, что олени на дорогах не просто случайность, а закономерность. Водители предупреждают друг друга об оленях на дороге, моргая дальним светом. Кроме того, в местах пересечения оленьих пастбищ ставят специальные предупреждающие знаки. Лоси крупнее оленей и представляют еще большую опасность на дорогах. Если вы сбили животное, позвоните в полицию по телефону 112. Не бойтесь, государство возместит ущерб оленеводу. Желаем вам хорошей и безопасной дороги!

П А Р КО В К А В Р О ВА Н И Е М И Б Е С П Л АТ Н Ы Е П А Р КО В К И

Супермаркеты на окраине предоставляют клиентам бесплатную парковку без ограничения по времени. Торговые центры и магазины в центре города часто предлагают бесплатную парковку на 1–2 часа. Контроль за длительностью парковки осуществляется с помощью синих парковочных часов, которые можно приобрести в любом супермаркете. Часы нужно оставить под ветровым стеклом на видном месте, указав время прибытия на стоянку. Время следует отмечать без опережения, так как если контролер это заметит, вам грозит штраф 50€. Самая популярная бесплатная стоянка в центре Рованиеми — у торговых центров «Ринтеенкулма» и «Ревонтули». Парковаться можно бесплатно

2 часа, кроме небольшого пятачка у южного входа, где «быстрая» парковка на один час. Верхний ярус стоянки «Ринтеенкулма» предлагает платную парковку на весь день за 4€. В ТЦ «Сампо» первый час парковки бесплатный, после чего плата 1€ в час. При въезде в автогараж автомат выдаст вам парковочную карту. Ecли парковка длилась больше часа, ее нужно оплатить в паркомате рядом с лифтом торгового центра. П Л АТ Н Ы Е С ТОЯ Н К И В Ц Е Н Т Р Е

Все параллельные парковки в центре платные: по будням с 8 до 18 и по субботам с 8 до 16. Оплата производится в парковочных автоматах: цена — 1,40€ в час. Чек от паркомата нужно положить под ветровое стекло.

Т И П Ы П А Р КО В О К

Тип парковки можно определить по знаку. Например, пиктограмма парковочных часов и надпись 2h, означает, что бесплатная парковка разрешена на два часа с использованием парковочных часов. Если на знаке пиктограмма парковочного автомата, значит парковка платная. Часто можно встретить надпись VARATTU (занято), если парковка закреплена за кем-то. Ищите место с надписью ASIAKAS (клиент) или VIERAS (гость). ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

59


ФИНЛЯНДИЯ | ИНФОРМАЦИЯ

А Л КО ГОЛ Ь И С И ГА Р Е Т Ы

Пункт возврата такс-фри в Рованиеми находится в Деревне Санта Клауса.

В О З В РАТ ТА КС- Ф Р И ТАКС-ФРИ — это система возврата налога НДС с покупок в ЕС. Ставка налога на продукты питания составляет 14%, на остальные товары — 24%. Это — одежда, обувь, бытовая техника и т.д. Имейте в виду, что если у вас есть ПМЖ в Европе, тогда вы не можете получить возврат налога НДС. Минимальная сумма покупки — 40€. Товар должен быть опечатан специальной лентой и пользоваться им можно только за пределами ЕС. Для оформления чека вы должны предоставить загранпаспорт. Покидая Европу, вам необходимо подтвердить факт вывоза товара из ЕС печатью таможни. Особо исполнительные служащие таможни могут попросить предъявить товар.

Ч АС Ы РА Б ОТ Ы М А ГА З И Н О В В Финляндии супермаркеты обычно работают до 21–22 часов по будням и субботам, и до 18–19 по воскресеньям. Раньше магазины должны были закрываться на праздники, но теперь могут работать, если захотят. «Призма» Рованиеми, например, открыта теперь практически каждый день. Обычно же «Призма» Рованиеми работает с 8 до 22 по будням и по субботами и с 11 до 22 по воскресеньям. Ночью продукты в Рованиеми можно купить в круглосуточном магазине «Sale» в центре города (Koskikatu 11). Основные продукты питания можно купить крулосуточно на автозаправках «Шелл» в Рованиеми. 60

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

Вы сможете получить возврат в течении года с момента оформления чека. Сумма, которую возможно получить обратно с покупки составляет, в среднем, от 9% до 12%. Пункт возврата такс-фри в Рованиеми находится в Деревне Санта Клауса, в информационном бюро. Раньше здесь действовала система возврата Early Refund, то есть «Купи – получи такс-фри сразу», не доезжая до таможни. Однако, с начала 2018 года здесь действует и привычная нам система Late Refund, то есть прием чеков по системе после получения штампа таможни. Пункт работает каждый день с 10 до 17. Больше информации о такс-фри:

www.globalblue.com

Алкоголь крепостью до 5,5% можно купить на вынос в супермаркетах, киосках и заправках. Такими напитками являются пиво, сидр и любимый финнами джин-тоник «lonkero». Продажа этих напитков в магазинах запрещена после 21.00. Торговать алкоголем крепче 5,5% имеют право только магазины государственной монополии «Алко». В Рованиеми есть три таких магазина: в центре города (ТЦ «Ринтеенкулма»), в «Призме» и «Ситимаркете». В Ивало «Алко» находится в «C-Маркете», в Салле — в «К-Маркете». В Куусамо вы найдете «Алко» в «Ситимаркете». Магазины «Алко» работают в будние дни с 9 до 20–21, в субботу с 9 до 18, а воскресенье и в праздники они закрыты. В «Алко» можно купить весь спектр алкогольной продукции — вино, пиво, водку, виски, коньяк и т.д. В барах, ресторанах и ночных клубах алкоголь продают только для употребления на месте. Продажа алкоголя разрешена максимум до 03.30, но часто, особенно в будние дни, увесилительные заведения закрываются гораздо раньше. Сигареты в Финляндии можно купить в супермаркетах, мини-маркетах «R-Kioski», на заправках, в барах и ресторанах. По закону сигареты не могут быть показаны на витрине, поэтому сигареты покупают через специальный терминал на кассе, или тихонько спрашивают у продавца, как-будто делают что-то нелегальное. Что поделать — такие законы!


РОВАНИЕМИ | РАЗМЕЩЕНИЕ

Хостел «не как у всех»

МУРМАНЧАНКА АЛИСА БОГАТЫРЕВА ПРИЕХАЛА УЧИТЬСЯ В РОВАНИЕМИ В 2012 ГОДУ. ЗА ЭТИ ГОДЫ ОНА ИЗУЧИЛА РЕСТОРАННУЮ СФЕРУ ГОРОДА И ДАЖЕ ОТКРЫЛА СВОЙ ХОСТЕЛ.

А

лиса Богатырева приехала в Рованиеми из Мурманска в 2012 году. Она поступила в Лапландский университет прикладных наук на программу международного бизнеса. Через три года она открыла в Рованиеми семейный бизнес — ресторан русской кухни «Blin&Beer». Ресторан просуществовал всего полгода, но многому научил Алису про бизнес в Финляндии. Ее новый бизнес-проект — это хостел WherЕver, который открылся в Рованиеми в ноябре 2017 года. Ресторан «Blin&Beer» пользовался популярностью среди местных. Почему же он закрылcя так быстро? — Родителям не дали рабочие визы. Папа был директором ресторана, мама работала на кухне. В тот год в Финляндию приехало много беженцев, и ситуация с выдачей виз осложнилась, — рассказывает Алиса. Закрытие ресторана стало тяжелым испытанием для Алисы, так как она считала ресторанный бизнес своим призванием. Наконец, она осознала, что рынку надо предлагать такие услуги, в которых он действительно нуждается, а не “навязывать” ему то, что интересует лично предпринимателя. В последние годы туристический бизнес в Лапландии развивается быстрыми темпами, и ощущается острая нехватка в размещении. Так, на месте ресторана и возник хостел WhereEver. «Бутик-хостел», как его в шутку называет Алиса, небольшой, но уютный. В нем 2 об-

щие комнаты, которые могут вместить по 6 человек на двухъярусных кроватях. Есть большая кухня и общая гостиная. Цена на одно место варьируется от 25€ до 100€, в зависимости от сезона. Алиса старательно украсила хостел ретро-мебелью и коврами. На столе — живые цветы. В прихожей — позолоченные чемоданы, на которых лежат свежие выпуски журнала «Вог». Обстановка в хостеле не похожа ни на одно гостиничное заведение в городе. — Винтажную мебель я ищу в местных секонд-хендах. Здесь такие вещи обесцениваются, а в России это считается круто. Чемоданы достались от дедушки, я только покрасила их в золотой цвет, — говорит Алиса. В хостел приезжают гости со всего мира, особенно из Азии. Они едут в Лапландию, чтобы увидеть северное сияние. Клиентам нравится атмосфера отеля, но финнов такой интерьер приводит в недоумение. — Финны очень консервативны, и думают только в одном направлении. Они лепят везде в отелях свой скандинавский стиль, эти рога. Конечно, здесь это прокатывает, но я устала от этого. Я хочу сделать все максимально не скандинавское, — говорит Алиса. А что Алиса может порекомендовать туристам из России? — Во-первых, это природа, воздух, возможности для занятия спортом. Во-вторых, здесь более качественные продукты. В третьих, здесь очень хорошо организован туризм, например, фермы оленей и хаски.

WHEREVER HOSTEL

Kansankatu 10, Рованиеми. +358 40 725 05 51 whereverhostel@gmail.com @whereverhostel в соцсетях

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

61


ФИНСКАЯ СИСТЕМА ОБРАЗОВАНИЯ СЧИТАЕТСЯ ОДНОЙ ИЗ ЛУЧШИХ В МИРЕ. КАК ОНА УСТРОЕНА? МОГУТ ЛИ ИНОСТРАНЦЫ УЧИТЬСЯ В ФИНЛЯНДИИ? ПОПРОБУЕМ РАЗОБРАТЬСЯ!

Лапландский университет в Рованиеми.

Образование в Финляндии НАЧА ЛЬНАЯ И СРЕДНЯЯ ШКОЛА

Финляндия является единственной страной, где отец имеет право на месяц отпуска по уходу за ребенком. Для мамы — это 10 месяцев. В детский сад ребенка можно отдать в 9 месяцев, что будет являться первой ступенью дошкольного образования. В 6 лет дети идут в обязательный подготовительный класс, после которого переходят в среднюю школу, где получают 9 классов бесплатного образования. Учиться в средней школе могут только те иностранцы, которые имеют вид на жительство. Главная цель финской средней школы — развивать ребенка, в том числе и творчески. В школе стараются не перегружать детей домашними заданиями. Обучение имеет элементы игры и практики. Классы стараются делать веселыми и яркими, а перемены длинными. Среднюю школу дети заканчивают в 16-17 лет. После этого есть выбор: продолжить обучение в лицее (lukio), или поступить в профессиональный колледж. В лицее дети получают гораздо больше свободы выбора, и ребенок сам составляет себе расписание. Главное — за три года пройти 75 курсов, а как ты это сделаешь, зависит от тебя. Третий год обучения в лицее укороченный, таким образом, в распоряжении учеников два месяца подготовки к финскому ЕГЭ. Очень важно заработать высокие баллы, так как они имеют большую роль при поступлении в университет. Профессиональный колледж отличается тем, что кроме обычных предметов, там начинают изучать прикладные науки. 62

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

В Ы С Ш Е Е О Б РА З О ВА Н И Е

Следующая ступень после лицея — поступление в университет. Для получения диплома бакалавра необходимо учиться 3–4 года, а до магистра нужно попотеть еще минимум пару лет. Так как максимальный срок обучения не ограничен, многие студенты на практике получают диплом 7–8, а то и 10 лет. Часто это обусловлено еще и тем, что студентам приходится подрабатывать, и на учебу остается мало времени. Стипендия в Финляндии хорошая и составляет несколько сотен евро, но страна-то ведь дорогая! Высшее образование можно продолжить и в политехническом институте, или, как заведение называют в Финляндии, университете прикладных наук. Оба вида образования ценятся одинаково высоко. Университет делает бóльшую ставку на теорию и самообразование. В «политехе» меньше теории и больше профессиональной практики. ВУЗ Ы Р О ВА Н И Е М И

Лапландский университет — самый северный в Финляндии. Здесь четыре факультета: дизайн, педагогика, социальные науки и юриспруденция. Иностранные студенты, имея за пазухой диплом бакалавра, полученный в своей стране, могут поступать на обучение на английском языке в магистратуре или докторантуре. Кроме того, здесь можно учиться по обмену. В 2017 году финский парламент принял закон, обязывающий вузы взимать плату за обучение у нерезидентов EC. Теперь обучение в магистратуре на английском языке в Лапландском уни-

верситете будет стоить 8.000€ в год! Докторантура же остается бесплатной. Университет заинтересован в иностранных студентах, поэтому существует и система стипендий. По итогам вступительных экзаменов четверть студентов получает образование бесплатно, четверти предоставляют скидку 50%, а остальным — скидка 25%. Обучение длится 2 года. Предлагаемые специальности: Arctic Art and Design; Media Education; Tourism, Culture and International Management (TourCIM); и Northern Tourism. Еще один вуз Рованиеми — Лапландский университет прикладных наук (LapinAMK). В нем имеется четыре программы бакалавриата: Business Information Technology; International Business; Nursing; и Tourism. Стоимость обучения также 8.000€ в год. А есть ли скидка? Есть! Всем иностранцам-первокурсникам LapinAMK дается скидка 80%, то есть первый год обучения обойдется в 1600€ без затрат на еду и размещение. Дальше скида будет зависеть от успеваемости. Обучение рассчитано на 4 года. При выполнении необходимого количества кредитов, скидка на второй и третий учебный год составит 60% (3.200€ в год), а если студент выпустится в срок, то ему вернут плату за последний год. В итоге, диплом бакалавра можно получить за те самые 8.000€. Уже лучше! Поступление на англоязычные программы в Лапландском университете и LapinAMK начнется в декабре 2018. Информацию можно найти на сайтах: www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.


Из степей Казахстана в снежную Лапландию

АСЛАН МАКИШЕВ родом из Костаная на севере Казахстана. В Рованиеми он поступил на платное обучение в Университет прикладных наук в 2017 г. Уже заканчивая лицей в Казахстане, он понимал, что хочет учиться за рубежом. — В Казахстане ловить нечего. Даже если у тебя красный диплом или высокие баллы, это не гарантирует, что ты получишь грант в университете или устроишься на работу. Идею учиться в Финляндии ему подсказала школьная учительница. Аслан принял решение готовиться не к ЕНТ (ЕГЭ в Казахстане), а к поступлению в финский вуз. Подготовка заняла два месяца и включала в себя интенсивные курсы английского. Вступительный экзамен проходил дистанционно и состо-

ял из эссе о финской компании, математики и дискуссии с носителем языка. Аслан подал в несколько разных университетов Финляндии, включая Оулу, Тампере и Лаппеенранта. В итоге, его принял Университет прикладных наук Рованиеми (Lapin AMK). В Рованиеми он приехал в августе 2017 года, где получил комнату в студенческой квартире. Студенты в Рованиеми имеют право на недорогое размещение, которое предоставляет организация DAS (www.das.fi). Однако, на месте его ждали лишь голые стены. Обустроиться в столице Лапландии ему помог отец, который и привез Аслана в Рованиеми. Город Аслану понравился сразу. — Здесь чистый воздух и доброжелательные люди. Университет один из

лучших в Финляндии, и само обучение проходит интересно, говорит Аслан. Аслан учится на Международном бизнесе (International Business). Обучение для нерезидентов ЕС стало в Финляндии платным с 2017 года. Стоимость обучения в Рованиеми — 8.000€ в год, но учащиеся получили скидку 80% на первый год обучения, заплатив 1.600€. По словам Аслана, это сопоставимо с платой в лучших вузах Казахстана, но он видит здесь больше перспектив: — Учиться в Финляндии эффективнее, проще и интереснее, и ты точно будешь знать больше чем в Казахстане. В программу обучения входят курсы по бизнесу, информационные технологии, английский и финский язык, проблемное обучение (PBL). В группе есть студенты из Финляндии, Азии, Европы, Южной Америки и Чечни. Единственный “минус” — много домашних заданий, однако большой плюс — возможность общаться с носителями языка и совершенствовать свой английский. Обучение по программе магистратуры длится 4 года. По окончанию обучения Аслан планирует найти здесь работу, или поступить на магистратуру в другую европейскую страну: — В Казахстан я не вернусь, буду использовать любой шанс, чтобы остаться в Европе. Однако жену я бы хотел найти из Казахстана! В Рованиеми два вуза, где можно учиться на английском. Лапландский университет предлагает двухгодичное обучение на магистратуре, а Университет прикладных наук — обучение на бакалавриате, куда можно поступить сразу после школы. Подача документов на 2019 год начнется в декабре 2018 года.

www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.

. e v i t a e r C s ’ t I Самые северные вузы ЕС предлагают обучение по творческим и другим специальностям. ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

63

У З Н А Й Т Е О Б О Б У Ч Е Н И И В Л А П Л А Н Д И И. W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI


З О О П А Р К РА Н УА ЕСЛИ У ВАС ЕСТЬ свободный день, посетите деревушку Рануа, что в часе езды от Рованиеми. Здесь вы увидите полярных сов, росомах, рысей, лосей, оленей, красных и серых волков, и даже полярных медведей, у которых пополнение в семействе! Медвежонок Сису растет и играет здесь целыми днями с мамой и разными игрушками! Летом в зоопарке открыта ферма домашних животных. В главном здании зоопарка есть ресторан, где подают обед в формате шведский стол. Зоопарк работает каждый день с 10 до 16. Инфо: russia.ranuazoo.com.

ДЕТСКИ Й

С А Н ТА П А Р К

МИР

САНТАПАРК — это подземная развлекательная пещера, где живут эльфы. Они покажут вам свою мастерскую и научат делать новогодние украшения. Миссис Санта угостит вас имбирным печеньем, а Санта Клаус будет ждать вас в своем офисе. Даже летом вы сможете заглянуть в царство Снежной Королевы и посмотреть на ледяные скульптуры. Не забудьте посетить площадку Angry Birds и отправить открытку родственникам от настоящих эльфов.

Tarvantie 1, Рованиеми. Открыт с 25.6 по 11.8.2018. Часы работы: Пн-Сб с 10 до 17. Билеты 17,50€/15€.

МУЗЕИ СХОДИТЕ С ДЕТЬМИ в интерактивный научный центр «Пильке» и в краеведческий музей «Арктикум». Оба находятся как раз по-соседству! В центре «Пильке» все экспонаты интерактивные — можно все потрогать и понажимать разные кнопочки. Здесь есть головоломки, и игра в охоту, и лесное караоке. Таким образом, играя, вы познакомитесь с финским лесом! В музее «Арктикум» вы увидите северное сияние, услышите звуки финского леса, а также узнаете о жизни коренных народов Арктики — эскимосов, ненцев и, конечно же, саамов!

Ounasjoentie 6, Рованиеми. Часы работы: c 10 до 18. Единый билет: 20€ взрослый, 10€ детский (7–15 лет).

АКТИВИТИ-ПАРК САМОЕ ЛЮБИМОЕ МЕСТО для детей в Рованиеми — это активити-парк «Хоп-Лоп». Дети готовы ходить сюда хоть каждый день! Парк до отказа набит развлечениями: тут есть батуты, машинки, горки и лабиринты с препятствиями. Возраст посетителей от 0 до 12 лет. Если вашему чаду больше 7 лет — добро пожаловать в соседний павильон «Ролло-Халли»! Здесь уже батуты посерьезнее! Eсть бассейны с поролоном и площадка для паркура.

Napapiirintie 14, Рованиеми. Пн-Вс 10–20. Взрослые и младенцы: 0€. Дети 1–2 лет 10€, От 3-х лет и выше 15€. Вход в оба парка 18€. 64

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


А М Е Т И С ТО В Ы Й РУД Н И К АМЕТИСТОВЫЙ РУДНИК находится в 5 км от горнолыжного центра Луосто. Расстояние от Соданкюля до Луосто 40 км, а от Рованиеми — 120 км. Аметистовый карьер расположен на самой вершине живописной сопки «Лампиваара», откуда открывается замечательный вид на окрестности. Экскурсии на рудник вместе с гидом стартуют от подножья сопки каждый час. После восхождения на сопку вам расскажут об аметисте, деятельности рудника и геологии региона, а также угостят горячим соком. Затем вы отправитесь в карьер на поиски вашего счастливого камня! Добыча аметиста здесь ведется только вручную, обычными кирками. В этом смысле рудник уникален, так как

основное его назначение — туризм. Конечно, аметист могли бы добывать и промышленным способом, однако в таком случае камня хватило бы на 5–10 лет. Рудник располагается на территории национального парка Пюхя-Луосто — тут бережно относятся к природе, а движение автотранспорта ограничено. Желающим посетить рудник рекомендуют доехать до одной из парковок рядом с автотрассой, а потом продолжить путь пешком или на велосипеде. Ближайшая парковка «Укколуосто» находится в 2,5 км от рудника. Путь к руднику проходит по живописной местности и займет около получаса. В цену билета входит один камень, который

ЗООПАРК РАНУА

БЕ

ЛА

Я СОВА

ДЬ

ЫЙ ЕЛ

М Е Д ВЕ

ДЬ

ac candi

Р Е Ж И М РА Б ОТ Ы 28.05–15.08.2018: ежедневно 11–17 16.08–30.09.2018: ежедневно 11–16 1.10–31.10.2018: Вт–Сб 11–15 18,50€/взрослый, 10€/детский (3-12 лет).

www.amethystmine.fi

Зоопарк Рануа находится в 80 км к югу от Рованиеми. В зоопарке проживает около 200 особей более чем 50 видов северных животных. У нас есть медведи, волки, хищние птицы, серые и красные волки, рыси, росомахи и другие животные! В зоопарке подрастает очаровательный белый мишка по имени «Сису»! Целыми днями он весело играет на улице с мамой. Приезжайте в гости к нашим животным! Зоопарк работает каждый день в году. Часы работы с 10 до 16, летом с 9 до 19.

russia.ranuazoo.com www.gulo.fi

Lynx lynx U rs

os us arct

Ur

us

bo s

МЕДВЕ

Б

Bu

ЫЙ УР

us

Б

РЫСЬ

поместится в кулаке нашедшего его, но за дополнительную плату можно купить камни побольше или уже готовые украшения из аметиста. У подножья рудника есть кафе, где можно вкусно перекусить и отдохнуть. Рядом с кафе находится мангал, где вы можете устроить свой пикник. В центре Луосто есть сувенирный магазин рудника, где продаются изделия из аметиста.

i sus martim

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

65


О РА Н Ж Е В А Я Г О Р К А ,

или веселые приключения в Лапландии

П

рошлым летом наша семья впервые посетила Финляндию. Собирались мы долго, лет 20. Сначала не было машины, потом дороги, потом не давали визу. Родился ребенок, и поначалу далеко путешествовать не хотелось. В августе 2017 года все наконец-то срослось: ребенок подрос, виза сделана, машина застрахована. Правда, дороги по-прежнему нет. Путь из Архангельска до Рованиеми предстоял длинный, 1500 км. Хорошо, что у жены есть водительские права, вдвоем полегче. Изначально был план переночевать в Медвежьегорске, но потом мы увлеклись и решили ехать без ночевки, да и ребенок на удивление хорошо переносил дорогу. Видимо, заполярное солнце зарядило всех энергией. Приехали мы в Рованиеми ближе к ночи, остановились у родственников. Сын от длительного путешествия часа два бегал не останавливаясь. Пришлось даже сделать ночную вылазку на детскую площадку. Кстати, это хороший вариант экономного отдыха с детьми. Практически каждый день мы посещали такие площадки. В каждом жилом районе есть одна большая детская открытая площадка и несколько маленьких. Есть все необходимое: песочница, качели, горки, лабиринты а неподалеку — поле для мини-футбола. Стоит особо отметить бесплатную открытую площадку «Энгри Бёрдс» в центре города. Она понравилась не только сыну, но и родителям. Здесь есть разные качели, 66

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

горки, туннели, трехэтажный лабиринт, футбольное поле, уличные тренажеры и другогой реквизит Злых птичек. В-общем — приводите детей сюда! У нас была возможность оставить нашего ненаглядного под присмотром родственников на детской площадке, а самим насладиться пейзажами города. Жене мы взяли велосипед, а сам я надел роликовые коньки племянника. Мы преодолевали десятки километров в день, изучая город и окрестности. Ребята – это кайф! Ровненький асфальт под ногами, уютный летний город вокруг — душа отдыхает! В один из дней мы сделали вылазку в Деревню Санта Клауса, повидать Йоулупукки. Расходы здесь согласно бюджету и желанию. В офис Йоулупукки можно заходить и беседовать с ним бесплатно, но самим фотографировать нельзя. Каждого посетителя здесь фотографирует эльф. Покупать фотографии никто не заставляет, но очень хочется. Купили и мы, несмотря на кусачую цену. Однако, почти год спустя, смотрим на фото и думаем: правильно сделали! После Санта Клауса зашли на почту и кинули пару открыток в красный ящик — родные удивятся, когда получат сюрприз к Новому году. Затем племянник затащил нас в лапландский чум, где готовят семгу на костре. Цена обеда — 22€, очень вкусно! После обеда зашли в гости к хаски, правда, покататься не получилось — слишком жарко для собачек. Сходили мы и в местный краеведческий музей, точнее, музеи. Один из музеев сде-


лан в современном стиле, другой сам по себе архитектурная достопримечательность. Прошлись по выставкам — интересно! Затем зашли в соседний научный центр, где есть тематическая детская площадка, посвященная финскому лесу. Сыну понравилось играть в поезда, которые он норовил отнять у других детей. Взрослые в это время зашли в сувенирную лавку и купили поделки местных умельцев. Нам повезло, и за две недели нашего отпуска было всего два дождливых дня. Мы их провели в спортивном детском парке «Хоп-Лоп». Если сказать кратко — это детский рай. Родителям рекомендуем запастись терпением. Только под закрытие воодушевленных и вспотевших детей можно утащить домой. По соседсву был еще один парк с трамплинами и батутами, но мы до него еще не доросли — оставили его на следующий отпуск. За всю поездку мы посетили «Хоп-Лоп» раза четыре, но сын готов был ходить сюда хоть каждый день. Любое чадо найдет здесь себе развлечение, но нашим фаворитом стала оранжевая горка. Год прошел, а сын до сих пор спрашивает, когда пойдем кататься на оранжевой горке. Всего в часе езды от Рованиеми под открытым небом находится парк арктических животных Рануа, с белыми и бурыми мишками, волками и росомахами. Понра-

вилось, что у финнов все хорошо продумано. У входа бесплатно взяли детскую каляску и возили в ней сына (он внезапно заладил «я — маленький!»). Увидели не всех животных, но тех кого смогли увидеть, хватило сполна. Примерно посередине маршрута нашли киоск с мороженным и отоварились по полной. Несмотря на это, когда вернулись с прогулки, аппетит не пропал, и поэтому зашли на шведский стол в местный ресторан. Две недели пролетели совсем не заметно! Уезжать не хотелось, но пора возвращаться домой. Это был наш первый отпуск на Полярном круге, но надеемся, что не последний!

ГОСТИНИЦА «ААКЕНУС» «Аакенус» — это трехзвездочная семейная гостиница с демократичными ценами в 200 метрах от центра Рованиеми. Мы предлагаем уютное размещение в чистых гостиничных номерах или комфортных семейных апартаментах. Гостиничные номера будут полностью отремонтированы в течение 2018 года. Обслуживаем и отвечаем на ваши вопросы по-русски! Добро пожаловать! НОВЫЙ ГОСТИНИЧНЫЙ НОМЕР

ФАКТЫ ОБ ОТЕЛЕ:

АПАРТАМЕНТ

Ул. Koskikatu 47, Рованиеми

КУХНЯ В АПАРТАМЕНТЕ

+358 16 342 2051

• 45 одно-, двух- и трехместных номеров, 4 семейных номера • 15 отдельных апартаментов с кухней, спальней и ванной • завтрак-буфет, русское ТВ, вайфай в номерах, парковка • ресепшн открыт 24 часа • 50 м до бассейна ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

hotelli.aakenus@co.inet.fi

67

www.hotelliaakenus.net/ru


РОВАНИЕМИ | КУЛЬТУРА

«А Р К Т И К У М »

«ПИЛЬКЕ»

МУЗЕЙ «АРКТИКУМ» предлагает отправиться в увлекательное путешествие по Арктике. Здесь вы узнаете о быте и народных промыслах коренных народов Заполярья — ненцев, эскимосов, инуитов и саамов. Изменение климата и среды обитания губительно влияет на образ жизни и обычаи этих народностей. Научный центр «Арктикума» занимается исследованиями этих вопросов и делится своими находками на выставках музея. В «Арктикуме» вы окунетесь в историю Рованиеми и Лапландии, и даже летом сможете увидеть северное сияние в специальном амфитеатре!

НАУЧНЫЙ ЦЕНТР ПИЛЬКЕ — это большая интерактивная игровая площадка, которая рассказывает о финской любви к лесу. Финны с молоком матери узнают, что природу нужно беречь, не мусорят и любят ходить в лес по грибы да ягоды. В Пильке дети и взрослые могут вместе поиграть в разные тематические «лесные» игры: поуправлять машиной для лесозаготовок, поохотиться, услышать пение лесных птиц, а также увидеть все разнообразие материалов, получаемых из древесины. Научный центр «Пильке» находится по соседству с «Арктикумом».

Pohjoisranta 4. www.arktikum.fi До 31.8.2018: каждый день 9–18. C 1.9 по 30.11.2018: вторник-воскресенье 10–18.

Ounasjoentie 6. www.tiedekeskus-pilke.fi До 31.8.2018: Будни 9–18. Выходные 10–18. C 1.9 по 30.11.2018: Вт–Пт 9-18. Сб-Вс 10–18. Пн: закрыто.

« КО РУ Н Д И » МУЗЕЙ СОВРЕМЕННОГО ИСКУССТВА КОРУНДИ — это частичка истории города, ведь здание музея постройки 1933 года является одним из немногих, переживших войну. В музее собрано более 3000 произведений финского искусства последних десятилетий, которые приоткрывают завесу финской души. Летом 2018 года в музее будет представлена коллекция картин «Снежная страна». Она включает в себя работы лучших финских художников, которые черпали вдохновение в красоте финской зимней природы.

Lapinkävijäntie 4. www.korundi.fi Вторник-воскресенье: 11–18. По четвергам до 20. Е Д И Н Ы Й Б И Л Е Т В Т Р И М УЗ Е Я : В З Р О С Л Ы Й 2 0 € , Д Е ТС К И Й ( 7– 1 5 Л Е Т ) 1 0€ . Д Е Й С Т ВУ Е Т 7 Д Н Е Й . ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

69


РОВАНИЕМИ | КУХНЯ

«НИЛИ»

«Х И М О »

ЕСЛИ ВЫ ХОТИТЕ попробовать настоящей лапландской кухни, тогда вам в ресторан «Нили»! За годы своего существования ресторан стал настоящей достопримечательностью города. Это и не удивительно, ведь где еще вы можете попробовать лапландских деликатесов и дичи! Основу местной кухни составляет оленина. Ее можно приготовить разными способами, от стейка нежной прожарки и строганины до тушеной шейки, которая проводит в духовке всю ночь. Попробуйте, например, классическое блюдо из оленины — оленью поджарку с пюре и брусничным вареньем. Рыба из чистых лапландских озер — тоже отличный деликатес! А если хотите отведать экзотики, тогда берите медвежатину. Удовольствие не дешевое, но пикантный и насыщенный вкус медвежатины окупит себя сполна, да и будет о чем рассказать друзьям. На десерт стоит полакомиться традиционным лапландским сыром с морошковым вареньем.

HIMO переводится с финского как «страсть» или «желание». Здесь очень неравнодушно относятся к азиатской кухне, особенно японской, китайской и тайской. Конек ресторана — это, конечно же, суши. Кроме знакомых роллов «Калифорния» есть и настоящая экзотика — суши с олениной и соусом чили! Где еще можно попробовать такое, кроме как в Лапландии? Рекомендуем отведать японского супа рамэн, китайских закусок димсам, или же вкусного вока — их можно заказать со свининой, курицей, говядиной, грибами, но также и с олениной и даже медвежатиной! Отличный выбор — это гамбургер с олениной и лапшой. Пальчики оближешь!

Valtakatu 20, Рованиеми. +358 400 369 669. Вт-Сб с 17 до 23. Вс–Пн – закрыто, restaurant@nili.fi, www.nili.fi.

Valtakatu 23, Рованиеми. +358 40 508 82 82. Вт–Пт 16–22, Сб 12–22. Вс–Пн – закрыто.

« Ю К А»

К АФ Е- БА Р « 21 » CAFE-BAR 21 находится в шаге от центральной площади. Кафе знаменито своими жареными вафлями, которые можно заказать как с мясной начинкой, так и с ягодами и фруктами, получив в итоге отличный десерт! Также в меню очень вкусный лососевый супчик, свежие салаты, паста и запеченый картофель с начинкой по вашему выбору. По будням в стоимость обеда входит чашка кофе или чая. Вечерами «Кафе-бар «21» — это стильное место для посиделок. Здесь очень хороший выбор изысканных вин, которые можно заказать по бокалам. Отдельного упоминания заслуживают коктейли, которые, пожалуй, лучшие в городе. В качестве закуски к ним можно взять испанский тапас или ассорти лапландских деликатесов. Сладкоежек ждет мороженое домашнего приготовления, коктейли и выпечка. Тут вкусно и уютно!

Rovakatu 21, Рованиеми. www.cafebar21.fi Пн-Вт 11–21, Ср-Чт 11-22, Пт 11-02, Сб 12-02, Вс 12-21. 70

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

YUCA — это, по-видимому, самый яркий из новых ресторанов в Рованиеми. Он предлагает настоящую домашнюю мексиканскую кухню. Главная фишка ресторана — это такос и тостадас, лепешки из кукурзной муки, которые здесь делают вручную. Начинку для них, говядину, курицу, лосось, грибы, готовят в духовке на настоящих углях, что гарантирует вкус «с дымком». Цены демократичные. Кроме такос рекомендуем попробовать блюдо под названием El bife de Yuca — фермерский жареный стейк. Или же Lucioperca — судак от лапландских рыбаков с авокадо и соусом сальса. На десерт стоит взять традиционные жареные пончики чуррос, которые подают с шоколадным соусом и сгущенкой. Кайф! По будням с 11 до 14 в «Юка» можно вкусно и недорого пообедать. В меню бурритос, супы и тушеное мясо с рисом.

Rovakatu 21, Рованиеми. +358 40 099 87 54. Пн-Чт 11–21, Пт–Сб 11-23, Вс: закрыто. www.yuca.fi


РОВАНИЕМИ | КУХНЯ

« Ф РА Н С И Ш Е Р И » FRANS & CHÉRIE — это уютный французский ресторан в центре Рованиеми. В меню ресторана разнообразные французские закуски, сыры и колбасы, улитки, вкусные стейки, марсельская уха, цеплынок и даже жареный осьминог! По пятницам в ресторане подают мидии, а по будням — бизнес-ланч по цене 12€. «Франс и Шери» предлагает особое лапландское меню со всеми деликатесами местной кухни. Её главная изюминка — это оленина, которую можно попробовать в разных исполнениях. Возьмите жареное филе олененка в соусе из красного вина!

Koskikatu 4, Рованиеми. +358 444 050 216. Пн–Пт 11–23, Сб 12-23, Вс 12–22.

«А М А Р И Л Л О » AMARILLO — это ресторан техасско-мексиканской кухни. Хотите вкусно и сытно покушать? Тогда вам сюда! На закуску вам предложат фахитас, начос и такос. В качестве главных блюд — вкусные стейки, блюда из курицы и свиные ребрышки. В «Амарилло» знают толк в классных бургерах! Отборные мясные котлеты, сыр чеддар, майонез и картофель по-деревенски — вкуснятина! На десерт — шоколадный торт и мороженое. Для детей есть специальное меню.

Koskikatu 4, Рованиеми. +358 444 050 213 Пн–Чт 11–23, Пт 11–02, Сб 12–02, Вс 12–23.

«РОССО»

« КО Ф Е Х АУС » ЛЮБИТЕ ПИЦЦУ? Заходите в ресторан «Россо»! Здесь вы можете пропробовать как классическую пиццу, так и артизанскую «римскую» пиццу. Она имеет прямоугольную форму и хрустящую корочку! Стоит попробовать, например, пиццу с итальянской ветчиной и козьим сыром. В меню ресторана есть разные итальянские закуски, паста, ризотто и стейки. На десерт стоит взять панакотту с ягодами. В стоимость всех главных блюд «Россо» входит шведский стол с закусками. Летом вы можете перекусить и выпить пару напитков на террасе «Россо». Ресторан находится прямо в центре города, на площади «Лорди».

Maakuntakatu 30, Рованиеми. Пн–Сб 11–22, Вс 12–22.

ПАБ «УЙТТО» — это отличная пивная в центре Рованиеми! На ваш выбор много сортов европейского пива, но есть и пиво местного изготовления. Рекомендуем продукцию пивоваренного завода Рованиеми «Lapin Panimo», например, нежный эль и лагер! Еще вариант — это бархатный «арктический стаут» от другого лапландского производителя «Tornio Brewery». В «Уйтто» вы можете посмотреть спортивные состязания на большом экране, поиграть в дартс или в настольные игры — будет весело!

COFFEE HOUSE — это уютное и современное кафе в центре Рованиеми. Здесь вас ждет вкусный и ароматный капучино, латте, эспрессо, и много вариантов заварного чая, в том числе сенча и ройбуш! В меню также разная свежая выпечка, тортики, бутербоды, салаты и смузи. По будням кафе работает с восьми утра, чтобы порадовать жаворонков чашечкой ароматного кофе и вкусным завтраком! Днем сюда можно заскочить на быстрый обед, а вечером на бокал игристого вина. Maakuntakatu 30, Рованиеми.

Пн–Пт 8–21, Сб 10–21, Вс 12–20.

«У Й Т ТО »

Korkalonkatu 25. Каждый день c 17 до 02.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

71


РЕКЛАМА

МАГИЯ ШАМАНСКОГО БУБНА СААМЫ, коренные жители Фенноскандии, жили в тесной связи с природой и поклонялись духам стихий. Нойды, или саамские шаманы, являлись целителями и предсказателями, а шаманский бубен из оленьей кожи был неотъемлемым элементом их магических церемоний. Ударяя в бубен молотком из оленьей кости, они призывали на помощь духов, и впадали в состояние транса. На бубны наносили символы планет, саамских богов и разных животных, игравших важную роль в жизни саамов. Верхняя часть бубна представляла небо, средняя – Землю и мир живых, а нижняя – Царство мёртвых. С помощью этих символов саамы давали советы людям, а также просили удачи в охоте, оленеводстве и рыболовстве. Шаманский символизм оказал большое влияние на развитие рукоделия

и искусства региона. Так, шаманский бубен стал основой целой серии украшений мастерской «Тайгакору» из Рованиеми. Ксати, ее название означает «таежное украшение», ведь вдохновением для мастеров является еще и лапландская природа. Серия украшений «Шаманский бубен» олицетворяет богов плодородия, грома, ветра, охоты, луны и солнце. Также в ней есть символы животных и рыб: оленя, волка, медведя, бобра и форели. Эти украшения выполнены в оригинальной саамской стилистике и отлиты как из золота 585-й пробы, так и из серебра 925-й пробы. Мастерская изготовляет еше и традиционные саамские броши «Риску», которые являются одним из основных элементов национального наряда саа-

мов. Их круглая форма и позолоченные подвески символизируют ход солнца. Еще один пример влияния саамской культуры — это серебряные обереги «Комсио», которые подвешивали над детской люлькой. Саамы верили, что их легкое позвякивание защищает детей от злых духов. Мастерская «Тайгакору» также известна своими перстнями, которые делаются с использованием золотых самородков, найденных на саамской реке Лемменйоки в северной Лапландии. Изделия «Тайгакору» можно купить в фирменных магазинах в Рованиеми или заказать через интернет-магазин: ТЦ «Ринтеенкулма», Koskikatu 25. Магазин «Swarowski» в Деревне Санта Клауса (рядом с офисом Санты). www.taigakoru.eu

ку по производсту ножей в Рованиеми в 1928 году. В этом году фабрике исполняется 90 лет! «Марттиини» производит традиционные лапландские и финские ножи, современные рыболовные и охотничьи ножи, а также коллекционные модели с бронзовыми навершиями, оленьим рогом и дамасской сталью. Посетите фирменные магазины «Марттиини» в Рованиеми или онлайн-магазин: www.marttiini.com. «СТАРАЯ ФАБРИКА» ТЦ «РИНТЕЕНКУЛМА» ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 72 Пн–Пт 10–18, Сб 10–16 Пн–Пт 10–18, Сб 10–17

ДЕРЕВНЯ САНТА КЛАУСА Каждый день 10–17

НОЖ «МЕДВЕДЬ»

НОЖ ИЗ ДАМАССКОЙ СТАЛИ

Кузнец Янне Марттиини основал фабри-


и

р кс-ф о, та Инф

4 ка 2

ав Запр

ч.

8 кm ми 7

2

ие

н Рова

сС

7

рк аПа Сант

c

ordi ild N

ауса

а Кл ант

Офи

1

9

ние Лет

иW урси

экск

4

1кm

руг

ый к

ярн Пол

5 lage

la

C anta

иS едж Котт

Vil liday o H us

6 3

ский ланд

Лап

оран рест

кая дчес о в е н

льфа ма э

Фер

ма

фер

Оле

ДЕРЕВНЯ НАХОДИТСЯ В 7 КМ К СЕВЕРУ ОТ РОВАНИЕМИ. РАБОТАЕТ КАЖДЫЙ ДЕНЬ С 10 ДО 17. ЛЕТОМ 1.6–31.8 КАЖДЫЙ ДЕНЬ С 9 ДО 18.

1 О Ф И С С А Н ТА К Л АУС А

4 РОДЖЕСТВЕНСКАЯ ВЫСТАВКА

7 Н ОЖ И « М А Р Т Т И И Н И »

2 П О Ч ТА С А Н ТА К Л АУС А

5 Р Е С ТО РА Н « Т Р И ЭЛ Ь ФА»

8 П У Н К Т ТА КС- Ф Р И

3 ОЛЕНЕВОДЧЕСКАЯ ФЕРМА

6 ЛАПЛАНДСКИЙ РЕСТОРАН

9 У К РА Ш Е Н И Я « ТА Й ГА КО РУ»

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

73


中文, 一往而情深 ——传播中国文化的芬兰人

由于工作原因正式采访马迪·诺约宁教授(Matti Nojonen)之前,初见到的不是他这个人,而是他的 文字作品。2017 年春天,“永膺福庆——清代宫廷 的辉煌”大型展览在芬兰中南部城市坦佩雷拉开帷幕。 在以中国红为主色调的纪念品商店中,除了那些充满 中国元素的灯笼、龙纹、木雕等,最显眼的大概就是 那几本由马迪教授翻译的芬兰语著作了。他不仅把《孙 子兵法》翻译成芬兰文,还翻译了另一本中国古典兵 法上的奇书《诡道》。 74

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


“一个芬兰人怎么能将中国古代的文言文理解的如此 透彻?”着实让我惊奇不已。 走进马迪教授的办公室,并没有想象中的充斥着各种 中国符号。陈列着各类书籍的书柜占据一隅,其上间或摆 着一两本关于中国兵法的书,墙上的白板上写着一些中文 翻译的思考过程,一方工作台上各种阅读资料成摞堆放着 …… 当我敲响他的办公室门的时候,安然坐在办公室中 阅读资料的马迪教授似乎才刚刚意识到采访时间的来临。 看到这些,我又觉得一个芬兰学者的办公室如此干净朴素, 似乎又是一件情理之中的事。

漫长的中文学习之旅 为何对中国文化感兴趣?马迪教授在高中时期就接触 到了日本文化,诸如柔道等,这形成了他最初对于东亚文 化的认知。然而,真正让他对中国开始产生兴趣的是青少

摄于马迪教授办公室

年时期读过的一本英文版的《孙子兵法》。书中有关中国

进步的芬兰朋友。两个人互相学习、彼此纠错,终于马迪

兵法的论述深深吸引了他,尤其是那种充满哲学意味的语

翻译的芬兰语版《孙子兵法》在 2005 年由赫尔辛基大学

言令他印象深刻。为了更好地理解中国兵法,马迪便开始

出版社出版。2007 年,他又分析翻译了 56 部有关中国

了他漫长的中文学习之旅。上世纪 90 年代初,马迪去往

兵法战略的书籍。其中包括古代的《孙子兵法》、 《韩非子》、

《文子》、 《管子》、 《吕氏春秋》、 《战国策》等等, 中国留学,他抵达的第一个中国城市便是广州。一年后, 《孙膑兵法》、 他又先后在台湾地区和瑞典学习中文。

另外还有近现代的毛泽东、曾中生等大家的战术战略思想。

初初看到《孙子兵法》的时候,马迪就折服于中国兵

中国古代兵法是中国古代用兵作战的方法、策略的总

法的意蕴,这更加成为他急迫的学习中文、接触文言文原

称,也指中国古代兵家军事著作的统称,是中国古典军事

版的强大动力。在斯德哥尔摩大学的中文系,他第一次阅

文化的重要成果,也是中国优秀文化传统的重要组成部分。

读到文言文,便觉得它“太难了!”我很难想象仅仅凭借

对于普通的中国人来说,中国古代的兵法书或许只是兵法、

着对于中国兵法的热忱就能够让他坚持着学习文言文,以

兵略、训练、阵法、兵器等的集锦。然而马迪却说,他喜

致于现在能够理解数十本中国古代兵法著作,这对于身为

欢中国兵法是因为其中蕴含的哲学味道,这些“集锦”反

中国人的我来说都像是不可能完成的任务一般!

映出的是中国古人的智慧和世界观。譬如,文言文中的词 为了心中的兵法情缘,马迪从未中断过中文的学习。 类活用现象。在古汉语中,某些词在特定的语言环境中可 1995 年至 2000 年间,他先后到访过青岛、北京、上海、 以灵活运用,临时改变它的基本功能,在句中充当其他类 广州等地。2010 年至 2014 年间,每年他都在中国工作 词(名词作动词用)。这种在古汉语中出现的重要语法特 半年左右的时间。繁忙的工作和学习让他没有太多时间在 点之一,让这位芬兰学者惊叹不已。他说,这种“概念” 中国旅游,但是这些年却是他如饥似渴地吸收中文知识、 的差异不仅存在于古今汉语之间,更是存在于东西方文化 了解中国文化的宝贵阶段。 当中。

充满哲学思辨的中国兵法 在学习一门语言的过程中,学而不用必定会事倍功半。 2002 年开始,马迪开始学习翻译中国古文,第一本文言 文翻译作品自然是他最爱的《孙子兵法》。语言翻译工作 通常都是比较枯燥无趣的,所幸一路上马迪还有共同学习

很多文言文涉及中国传统文化和哲学思想,相关知识 不足也会影响对文章深意的理解。对于像马迪这样的汉学 家来说,学习文言文的阅读方法和语境固然重要,但是能 够深入了解文章的思想感情和文化内涵更显得技高一筹, 特别是古人往往喜欢将文章的深意隐藏,如果观者对作品 摄于拉普兰大学的中文课课堂

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

75


近年来访拉普兰的中国游客愈加增多,从事旅游和商业的当地人意识到学习中文的必要性 的背景缺乏足够的了解,便很难理解作品背后的深意。

这些外国学生学习中文的呢?原因主要集中在两点 :对中

中国古代战争的现实性启发了人们理性地去认识敌我双方 和自然之道,这其中当然不仅仅表现在语言表达上,还有 认识“己与彼”、“天与地”的辩证思维和天人观念。或许 正是因为孙子是第一个把认识自己与认识他人、认识人道 与认识天道放在重要地位的人,才让无数人对中国古代兵 法着迷不已吧。从这个意义上来讲,他对于战争的分析为 后人认识整个世界做了最初的准备,为中国哲学作出了重 要贡献。 现在的拉普兰大学有 5 门关于中国文化方面的课程, 包括中国政治、中国经济、中国社会与媒体、中国法律体 系、中文等。部分课程的报名学生达到 50 人之众,这个 数字对于一个体量不大的芬兰大学来说已经比较多了。然 而,马迪教授仍然认为芬兰学生对中国文化的了解太少了。 我走进了拉普兰大学中文课的课堂,采访了来自芬兰、 俄罗斯、美国、越南等国的在座学生。这些学生已经上了 四个阶段的中文课了,执教的中文老师说中文语境的欠缺 让他们的中文学习显得格外困难。那么又是什么原因促使

国文化的兴趣和(旅游或商务)工作的需要。随着拉普兰 省旅游业的发展,越来越多的中国游客来到罗瓦涅米。服 务于旅游业的芬兰小伙表示学习中文有利于工作交流 ;在 Alko 芬兰国营酒类专卖店打工的芬兰学生非常自豪地告 诉我说,他能够分辨出一对中国夫妇的中文口音,并判断 出他们是来自北京的 ;正在学习法律的芬兰学生则希望通 过学习中文了解中国文化,为未来的职业道路打下基础。 这些学生对于中国文化的认知基本上集中在中文和中国美 食之上。 未来,拉普兰大学将会有越来越多的学生对中国、中 国文化感兴趣。 在拉普兰建立孔子学院将有利于积极推 广中国文化,这一重要举措也将部分弥补中文语言环境的 缺失,受惠于学习中文的外国学生和芬兰当地人 。马迪 教授希望,未来拉普兰大学的孔子学院会是一个交流中国 文化的平台——这个没有“墙”、透明度大的孔子学院能 够为拉普兰的老百姓介绍更多的中国文化,让他们有机会 喜爱中国传统文化、了解中国当今社会。

. t h g i It’s L

这里的夏天,极昼之阳永不落。 墨镜是外出必不可少的哦!

76

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

在北极圈体验非同凡响的高等教育。入学申请请至 W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI


在拉普兰应用科技大学,学生有机会学习使用 3D 虚拟现实的科技

在北极圈学商的体验 拉普兰应用科技大学是欧盟地理

平台却在一定程度上解决了这种沟通

位置最北的大学,提供四个国际学位

障碍。和中国填鸭式的教学方式不同,

的本科课程,包括商业经济学、国际

芬兰的教学更注重实践性,团队合作

商务、旅游学和护理。除此之外,大

和创新思维是大学最专注培养的两项

学还提供商业管理的硕士学位课程。 能力。譬如,在拉普兰应用科技大学, 从 2017 年秋季开始,芬兰开始全面

学校会帮助有创新想法的学生搭建学

征收非欧盟国际学生的学费,这直接

生创业平台,联系对口的企业,使想

导致报考拉普兰应用科技大学的中国

法转化为生产力。这种做法不同于一

学生数量锐减。即使提供不菲的奖学

味地强调书本知识的理论,而是更多

金,地处北极圈的大学仍然面临如此

地“让梦想照进现实”,不少学生因

窘境。然而,却有人弃医从商,来到

此美梦成真。在师生关系中,芬兰的

拉普兰学习国际金融,冀望在这片土

老师更像是学生的朋友,而非身居高

地上开创出自己的一番事业。

位的老夫子。在中国读书的时候,狄

狄力来自于新疆的乌鲁木齐。曾

力时常觉得老师一下课就走人了 ;但

经在新疆医科大学学医的他,性格爽

是在拉普兰应用科技大学,课堂后的

朗、健谈,比起手术刀更喜爱的是语

老师经常和学生们聊天说笑,师生之

言的艺术。24 岁时抱着出门闯一番

间的沟通方便而轻松。正是学校这种

的想法,狄力来到了遥远的北国芬兰。 开放的态度和友好的氛围,让外国学

是,狄力在与各种各样不同行业的人

仅仅用了一年多的时间,他就克服了

打交道的过程中感受到了乐趣,并从

生能够更自在地在这里学习和生活。

芬兰语这一大难关,学习着融入芬兰

在芬兰的头两年,狄力尝试过不

社会。然而,即使是健谈的狄力,想

同的工作,这不仅锻炼了他的语言能

要完全融入芬兰生活、与芬兰人建立 起友谊也并不是件容易的事情。事实 上,他将之称为“破墙”。芬兰人的 社交方式与中国人完全不同,他们的

中发现了未来值得发掘的职业道路。

得益于拉普兰绚丽变幻的北极光和纯 力,也让他感受到了不一样的生活。 净的自然环境,狄力发现来罗瓦涅米 或许有人不懂他为何要弃医从商,但 的中国人越来越多、中芬间的文化沟 是狄力告诉我说, “年轻就要拼搏”。 通也愈加普遍。不管是旅游还是商业, 人 的 一 辈 子 需 要 有 不 同 的 体 验 和 经 拉普兰的发展潜力都无限大。在大学

工作方式也让外国人一时难以适应。 历,需要从不同的生活中感悟人生的

学习国际金融的同时,他也在寻找各

这对任何人来说都是一种文化上的冲

各种况味,不同职业中的“试错”也

种创业的机会,希望在未来、在北极

击。然而,学校为学生们提供的交流

让人生变得愈加丰富多彩。最重要的

圈上开拓出属于自己的商业版图。 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

77


拉普兰有什 么好玩的? 夏天的拉普兰有白夜现象,太阳终日盘桓于天穹。 拉普兰拥有质朴与天然的原始风光,形形色色的 纯正自然让人心旷神怡。因此,夏天的拉普兰也 是 生 机 勃 勃, 有 许 多 丰 富 有 趣 的 户 外 活 动。 譬 如,8 月在比哈滑雪度假村举办的 NUTS 越野赛、 2018 坦卡瓦拉黄金村淘金芬兰冠军赛、拉努阿的 云莓庆典等等。在 6 月 18 日至 24 日间的那个星 期六更是芬兰最重要的节庆之一——仲夏节,芬 兰全国都沉浸在多彩缤纷的节日氛围之中,从仲 夏节的篝火仪式到重金属摇滚,从烧烤聚餐到唱 歌跳舞,如此种种,令人难忘~

拉努阿野生动物园位于拉普兰省首府罗瓦涅米以南 80 公里处,约一小时车程。拉努阿是一个体验荒野北极的 好地方。在北方的原始森林中,游客不仅有机会看到北 极熊和去年夏天刚刚降生的小北极熊,还能近距离接触 50 多种典型的极地动物,包括棕熊、猞猁、雪狼、北极狐、 狼獾、驼鹿等等。野生动物园模拟了极地动物们各自独 特的生活环境,穿梭于动物们的生活辖区,游客们能够 深入探索极地原生态的风貌。除了展示各种北极动物之 外,拉努阿野生动物园还提供宾馆住宿、野营、餐饮和 各种户外活动的服务。另外,如果您前往野生动物园的

拉努阿野生动物园

话,千万不要错过近在咫尺的 Fazer 巧克力工厂店哦 ~。

拉努阿野生动物园距离罗瓦涅米以南 约80公里处,约一小时车程。动物 园饲养了50多种典型的极地动物, 包括棕熊、北极熊、猞猁、雪狼、狼 獾、驼鹿等。动物园模拟了动物们各

拉努阿野生动物园

雪鸮

麋鹿

猞猁

自独特的生活环境,游客参观路线长 约2.8公里,穿越了各种动物的生活 辖区。野生动物园全年开放,展现了

棕熊

一幅北极动物最真实、最自然的生活 状态缩略图。动物园全年开放,6月

us

1日至8月31日9:00-19:00,9月1

c Bu bo scandia

s

e ALL ABOUT AlLAPLAND c alc | SUMMER 2018 es

Lynx lynx

o Ursus arct

s

78

日至5月31日10:00-16:00。

www.ranuazoo.com


圣诞老人

比哈圣洛斯托 国家公园

地球人都知道,那个真正且唯一的圣诞老人就住在芬

冬天,距离罗瓦涅米 130 公里的比哈圣洛斯托国家公园是芬

兰。但是,你可能不知道,其实天天都可以去拜访他。

兰最酷炫的滑雪度假村之一。夏天,这个远离城市喧嚣和人

勤勉的圣诞老人和他的小精灵们一年 365 天都工作

群的国家森林公园却蕴含了一份出世的宁静,成为户外活动

着,恭候大家的光临!他的办公室就位于拉普兰省的

的理想去处。无论是寻找静谧的处所还是刺激的活动,来到

省会罗瓦涅米市。耳朵山那遥远的荒郊野外也许不是

这里都将不虚此行。游人们可以在这个森林公园找到适宜自

经营全球礼物递送服务的理想地点,但对于圣诞老人

己的活动,不管是远足、骑山地自行车、钓鱼、划独木舟、

来说,大自然的美景远比物流运输更为重要,更何况

险滩漂流,还是野外定向或采摘浆果蘑菇等活动都是极好的。

他还在北极圈上设立了邮局。圣诞老人邮局每年都会

比哈圣洛斯托是芬兰最大的国家公园,公园大面积的自然保

收到世界各地寄来的 50 多万封信件。圣诞老人虽然

护区确保了生物的多样性。不过即使如此,游人还是可以享

每年只能去孩子们的家里探访一次兼送礼物,但是他

受生长在森林中的、属于大自然的各种新鲜美味,因为这是

非常欢迎来自八方的游客去他家和他见面。来到罗瓦

每个人都有的权利。喜爱徒步和自然的你,也能够轻松找到

涅米的你可千万别错过这个面基的好机会哦!

国家公园中的瀑布,听说它还是个热门景点哦 ~

洛斯托紫水晶矿场

坦卡瓦拉黄金博物馆

洛斯托紫水晶矿场位于罗瓦涅米近郊,是全欧洲唯一

位于拉普兰省北部索丹屈莱的坦卡瓦拉黄金博物馆,是世界

开放给大众挖水晶原石的地方。紫水晶有安神、助眠

上唯一一家展示了黄金开采和勘探前世今生的博物馆。芬兰

以及增强精力的效用。达芬奇就总在他的书桌上放置

人的黄金勘探史将近 150 年,黄金博物馆不仅揭开当地黄金

一枚紫水晶,对此他在日记中解释说,“紫水晶能够

勘探者的小秘密,也同时展示了世界上超过 20 个国家的黄金

驱逐邪念并且加速思考”。洛斯托紫水晶矿位于洛斯

开采历史。你知道每到夏天这里就会举办国际淘金锦标赛吗?

托国家公园内,距罗瓦涅米约 120 公里。这里以前

你知道一旦发现了黄金或宝石的话就可以直接将它们带回家

是拉普兰原住民萨米族的地盘,他们在此驯养驯鹿,

吗? 1930 年,一块重达 390.9 克的最大的金块在伊瓦洛河

开采水晶——这是大山孕育了 2000 万年的精魂。山

中被发现;2008 年,一名淘金人发现了一块重 113 克的金块。

顶的宝石矿已经开设了数百年,给普通人可以亲手挖

而最令人兴奋的是拉普兰的黄金纯度高达 95%,因此它在全

出紫水晶原石的机会,挖到的紫水晶可以带走留作纪

球黄金市场上的价格始终略高于金价平均值。多一点点耐心,

念。拉普兰人热情待客,主人还会提供当地出产的新

多一点点幸运,再加上正确的引导,即使是门外汉也能找到

鲜蓝莓汁,为游客们讲述关于紫水晶的传说和知识。

一些金粉,甚至是一个小金块。 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

79


无比灿烂的 拉普兰 夏天 对芬兰人来说,冬天固然是有声有色的,然而夏天却是 实实在在的整天都洒满阳光的日子。经历了漫长的冬季,芬

日本电影《海鸥食堂》中展现的那种古典的城市景象、 和善的人群、湖泊与森林的自然风光,为我们描绘了一种

兰人极为享受夏季悠长、温暖、闲闲躺着无事可干的日子, 简单、乐活的生活元素,深深吸引着人们前往芬兰旅行。 不管是码头边、湖泊上还是海岸边都能看到人们享受阳光、 6 月至 8 月来到芬兰的拉普兰,永不落的太阳划破长空, 拥抱自然的身影。美妙的夏季好像邀请着每个人尽情享受这

总觉得一天超过二十四小时。芬兰人说,一到夏天,就要

无比美好的户外生活,到处举办的音乐节、舞蹈节在芬兰全

玩个通宵达旦,喝到不省人事为止。更何况拉普兰的自然

国各个角落生气勃勃地铺开。“白夜”的芬兰,每个人都舍

环境优越,为人们的“探险”活动提供了大型场地,不管

不得早早去睡觉,充分利用夏季享受自然才是芬兰人夏天的

是河流湖泊还是森林山岭都适合人们撒欢地玩耍。所以,

主旋律!

趁着夏意正浓,抓紧机会享受拉普兰的夏天吧!

80

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


白夜中的垂钓胜地 拉普兰四季分明,色彩各异。夏季,这里的太阳终日

兰的小木屋中度假。对于拉普兰人来说,夏天就是户外活 动、烧烤美食的代名词。 如果你住在拉普兰的林间小屋,

盘桓于天穹,白夜现象让人们恨不得 24 小时当成 48 小

或许从窗户望出去便时常能够看到松鼠在林间嬉戏,运气

时用。然而在仲冬时节,太阳却不轻易露面。秋季里,拉

好的话还能看到拉普兰的常住居民之一驯鹿呢!住在林间

普兰的森林处处呈现五彩斑斓的景象。深冬,漫天的飞雪

木屋的另一大好处是靠近森林,闲时便能够骑上自行车环

则营造出了一个明亮夺目的银色世界。这一切无不吸引着

山驰骋,沿着蜿蜒山路远足到湖畔,采摘遍地生长着的属

远足者和垂钓者纷至沓来。

于大自然的馈赠。鼻息中泥土的湿味和原野上自然的清香,

拉普兰有形形色色的纯天然水域,这里是钓鱼爱好者

诉说着拉普兰最原始而真实的味道。

的绝佳去处。只有在北部芬兰,你才可以找到芬兰最理想

在森林中尽情玩耍过后,自然是要用美食好生犒劳自 的鲑鱼和河鳟垂钓点。北极红点鲑是拉普兰的一大特色。 己一番。如果说冬天丰盛的炖锅让我们在寒冷的日子里倍 即使在拉普兰山中一些较小的水域垂钓,也能找到它们的 感温暖,那么夏天的拉普兰人则偏爱清爽、新鲜、易于烹 踪迹。拉普兰也有许多适合白鲑生长的优质水域,它们通

饪的食材。芬兰人夏天也喜欢吃小龙虾,每年七月中旬便

常出没在小湖泊以及河区水流缓慢的大池塘中。这些地方

开始了夏季的小龙虾季。每到这个时候,芬兰人就会三不

同时也是捕捉河鳟的绝佳去处。除此之外,拉普兰也有垂

五时地约上几个亲朋好友到家中共享饕餮。 此外,这场 钓梭子鱼和河鲈的好水域。很多野生湖泊中栖息着大河鲈, 美食盛宴上,拉普兰本地出产的新鲜蔬果是不可或缺的。 有些河鲈的重量达到一公斤多呢 ~ 在很长的历史时期里,芬兰都是游牧民族的家园,捕鱼、 拉普兰拥有质朴与天然的原始风光。这里地广人稀, 狩猎和采摘是当地人生活方式的自然组成部分。这种生活 水源充沛。这里有许多适宜的垂钓点,环境宁静而旷远 ; 方式至今仍然存在,构成了现代芬兰美食文化的真正根基。 在荒野中,可能几天都见不到一个人影。尽管如此,拉普

夏日住进木屋,过着简单的生活,大自然近在咫尺,新鲜、

兰仍然有无数交通便捷的垂钓水域,譬如罗瓦涅米。河边

简单、本地土产的美食唾手可得。届时,拉普兰的美食不

垂钓的夜晚,还可以像芬兰人一样点起一堆篝火,享受静

仅有驼鹿、麋鹿、柳松鸡、甚至是熊或驯鹿,还有沙棘、

静观赏大自然的安宁一刻。

越橘、云莓、蓝莓等野生浆果和牛肝菌、鸡油菌这样的可

顺便一说,外国旅人钓鱼需要申请许可证,不过拟饵

口菌类。至于水产海鲜,从狗鱼到白鱼、北极红点鲑、河鳟,

钓鱼是人人可以自由进行的。放一条长线,赌一把运气。

经过巧手新鲜烹制,配上香葱等野生草药,更是鲜美无比。 野生草药?你没看错,夏季去采集野生草药和可食花卉的

盛夏的聚会美食 很多芬兰人在夏季都喜欢去他们湖边、海边或是拉普

芬兰人是越来越多。如果你喜爱自然,想体验拉普兰这种 天然的生活方式的话,可以从简单的入门,做个荨麻叶汤,

Scandia Rent 租车服务 作为芬兰最大的汽车租赁公司,Scandia Rent在全芬兰有

发现北极之美!

超过50家办公室,为游客提供快捷周到的租车服务。其租 赁车辆包括经济型用车、家庭中等型车、SUV、旅行用车和 小巴。Scandia Rent的汽车干净,车况良好,价格公道。 罗瓦涅米提车点包括机场、火车站或是市中心的办公室。客 服电话24小时畅通!预订网址:www.scandiarent.fi。 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

81

地址:罗瓦涅米Valtakatu 26。营业时间:周一至周五8:00-17:00,周六周日10:00-14:00。 24小时电话:+358 16 342 0506。


或是用紫丁香、三色堇、矢车菊等花卉点缀沙拉、烘焙点心。 最后,说到芬兰人的主食,那肯定是土豆。尤其在初夏时 节更是如此。夏令的餐桌上若是没有奉上蒸腾着热气的新 鲜小土豆,那简直是不可想象的。春夏季的新土豆肉嫩皮 薄,维生素含量高,口味鲜美。小心地煮熟后,朝锅里撒 一把清香的莳萝,然后装盘端上,佐以黄油享用。 拉普兰的夏季因短暂而愈加美好,因此每年的这个时 候,人们都喜欢将烹饪工作和餐桌搬到户外。即使在森林 中,你也能看到临时的户外厨房和精巧的烧烤站点。后院 里、木屋后、露台上,人头攒动,亲自烧烤一同享用,乐 此不疲。一起做、一起吃,是享用夏令美食的重要元素。 亲朋好友齐来参与,你来采摘森林中的鲜蔬,我来划船垂 钓捕鱼。随着温暖的夏日黄昏渐渐变成午夜太阳甜蜜的浅 蓝色光晕,先一起烹饪,再一道享用,绝对是美事一桩。

桑拿和水上活动 说桑拿是芬兰文化的重要部分绝对不是夸大其词。人 们都说,如果你想了解芬兰和芬兰人的话,就先从熟悉桑 拿开始。中国人喜欢在饭桌上谈天说地,而芬兰人认为桑 拿是净化身体和心灵的场所。芬兰的桑拿非常之多,同时 容纳全国 540 万人口都没问题。因此,芬兰桑拿的数目 估计在两三百万之间。特别是夏季木屋,基本上都会建有 一个桑拿。美食过后,将桑拿加热,进入桑拿房中,待全 身烘的暖洋洋后在外面跑一圈,大汗淋漓地一猛子扎进湖 水中,那种爽快的感觉你可曾体验过? 除了游泳,桑拿的间隙你还可以围坐在营火边烧烤, 玩草地游戏或是聊天。在木屋的门厅里闲闲地坐着,静看 那不落的太阳,也别有一番悠闲。当然如果你对水上项目 感兴趣的话,还可以在午夜阳光中泛舟河上,享受夏季的 静谧和无所事事。在罗瓦涅米你还可以参加水上摩托的活 动,在河上享受追风的快感。这个适合所有年龄段人群的 活动安全又刺激,深受人们的喜爱。活动开始前教练会给 与必要的指导,所以即使没有驾驶水上摩托经验的人也完 全不用担心 ~

的传统工艺而闻名于世。这个成立于罗

收藏家的刀

瓦涅米的刀具品牌已经成为许多国家的 家庭必需之物。这种适用于北欧刀具包 括经典的芬兰和拉普兰式刻刀、猎刀和 钓鱼器具。锋利的刀锋采用最优质的钢 材,而刀具的手柄材质是铜和驯鹿角。 马拉蒂尼网店 www.marttiini.com. 马拉蒂尼老厂房店:周一至周五

Rinteenkulma购物中心店:

圣诞老人村店:

10-18、周六10-16

周一至周五10-18、周六10-17

每天10:00-17:00

82

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

三文鱼刀和带有铜制三文鱼领圈的刀品

大马士革钢

成立于1928年的马拉蒂尼刀具以其精湛


芬兰旅行你应该知道的 从数字看芬兰 芬 兰 总 人 口数约 540 万,赫尔

芬兰人的水 众所周知,芬兰是千湖之国,万

芬兰商店营业时间 在芬兰,周一至周五商店通常开

辛基大区人口总数约 140 万。芬兰

岛之国。据联合国儿童基金会的报告, 到晚上 6 点或 8 点,周六稍早打样,

国 土 总 面 积 338440 平 方 公 里, 每

芬兰的水是全世界最纯净的。纯净水

一般营业至下午 3 点或 6 点。大部分

平方公里 18.1 位居民。芬兰男性的

已进入到了芬兰人日常生活的方方面

商店周日休息,但部分商店会在周日

预期寿命年龄是 78 岁,女性的预期

面。其中最令其他国家艳羡不已的便

从中午营业至晚上 6 点。超市的营业

寿命年龄是 84 岁。芬兰官方语言分

是可饮用自来水,这是芬兰人每天都

时间久一些,大超市周一至周五营业

别是芬兰语和瑞典语,88.9% 的芬兰

能享受到的“特权”之一。

至晚上 9 点,周末至晚上 6 点 ;而小

人口使用芬兰语。芬兰采用议会民主, 一 院 制, 约 200 名 议 员。73.8% 的 芬兰人属于路德教会,约 1.1% 的芬 兰人属于东正教会。每年的 12 月 6 日是芬兰的独立日。

芬兰买酒限制多 超市贩卖的酒类酒精浓度不超过 4.7%,且购买酒类时必须年满 18 岁, 18 岁以上 20 岁以下的年轻人只可购 买酒精含量不超过 22% 的酒、啤酒 及饮料。收营员有权要求查看相关证 件(如护照等)。芬兰的国家酒品公司 ALKO 拥有葡萄酒和烈酒的零售专卖 权。因此,需要购买高度啤酒、葡萄 酒以及烈酒都只能在 ALKO 连锁店。 罗瓦涅米购物中心内的 ALKO 连锁店 营业时间 :周一至周五 9:00-20:00, 周六 9:00-18:00。

型超市则基本上每天营业到晚上 11

芬兰驾车TIPS 芬兰普遍的车速限制在城里为每 小时 50 公里,而城外则为每小时 80 公里。只要在没有其它标识的情况下, 这两个限速便是既定的限制。不过在 夏季,主要干道的车速限制可达每小 时 100 公里,高速公路上则为每小 时 120 公里。在冬季,所有车辆都 要配置冬季轮胎,最好是带有防滑钉 的。芬兰的冬季道路上很少会铺沙撒 盐,通常依靠扫雪机维持道路状况。 冬季的车速限制会改为每小时 80 公 里。芬兰法律规定,无论在夏天或冬 天,无论是烈日当空或是一片漆黑, 都要打开车头灯,即便在午夜阳光下 也是如此。路边停车时需要在自助停 车设备处购买停车票,然后放在车辆 的挡风玻璃后,方便执勤人员查看。

点。但是,在公共假日,商店和超市 的营业时间会有所调整。

赫尔辛基的微信小 程序 赫尔辛基与世界旅游城市联合 会、腾讯公司签订三方合作协议,共 同打造海外智慧旅游服务试点城市。 通过腾讯的网络直播、微信公众号、 小程序、AR 技术、全景地图、大数 据等功能,中国出境游客能够享受到 更便利且多样化的服务。赫尔辛基将 通过小程序为用户提供有关城市和服 务的重要信息、图片、视频和地图导 览,同时未来包括智能翻译、一键退 税、一键安全求助等服务功能也在开 发计划之中。除此之外,赫尔辛基也 将尽快启动微信公众号的建设。 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

83


北极博物馆 (Arktikum)

罗瓦涅米文化之旅 纵观芬兰的历史,这个国家也有着

又给这个国家带来怎样的后果,你都可以

上千年的文化了呢!你知道自石器时代开

在博物馆中找到答案。除了历史方面的知

始,拉普兰就已经有人类生活的痕迹了

识,游客也可以近距离地接触本地的特色,

吗?你知道公元前 700 年这里就已经有

譬如驯鹿等动植物和芬兰唯一的少数民

了周期性的农业劳作习惯了吗?你知道这

族——萨米人。驯鹿是鹿类中唯一被驯养

个四分之三面积地处北极圈以内的省份的

的动物,博物馆中的动植物标本区为游客

支柱产业是什么吗?这一系列的问题你都

展示了这种半野生的驯鹿的放养图片、以

能在罗瓦涅米的文化之旅中得到详尽的解

及古来萨米人驯养它们的各种工具和环境

答。其中不可错过的景点便是北极博物馆

状况。最后,在北极博物馆,你也可以学

(Arktikum)和比尔盖科学中心(Pilke)。 习关于北极圈环境的相关知识,譬如怎样 北极博物馆修建于 1992 年,适逢 芬兰 75 周年生日之际。伫立于奥那斯河 与凯米河的交汇处,博物馆独特的拱形玻

减缓温室效应、北极光是如何形成的、极 地动物有哪些等等。 紧邻北极博物馆的是比尔盖科学中心,

璃设计显得格外别致。这个长达 172 米

是芬兰人的森林博物馆。芬兰国土面积的

的玻璃长廊直指北极,做实了博物馆立足

70%以上被森林覆盖,是目前欧洲森林密

罗瓦涅米本地文化,同时关注北极生态人

度最高的国家 ;芬兰约 20%的能源产自木

文的宗旨和目标。因此,北极博物馆由两

材,而森林为芬兰可再生能源的生产作出

部分组成,它既是北极中心也是拉普兰地

了 70%的贡献。这些再再说明了森林在

区博物馆。这个处于地下的博物馆就像设

芬兰人的日常生活中起着怎样重要的作用。

计师当初的设想一样,如同北极的植物一

比尔盖科学中心的存在就是为了向人们普

般,常年处于地下被冰雪覆盖。

及关于森林的知识和大自然对我们日常生

在北极博物馆,你可以了解关于罗

比尔盖科学中心 (Pilke)

活的重要性。比尔盖尝试通过使用各种互

瓦涅米这个城市最详实的历史。罗瓦涅米

动展览品引发游客对于森林知识的兴趣 ;

的城市模型为游客展示的是二战前后的罗

通过各种小游戏,人们可以熟悉北方森林

瓦涅米。这个饱经风霜的城市在二战中将

的使用、产品和生产情况。在科学中心里, 地址 : 所有的展品都可以进行触摸和体验,全家 北极博物馆 Pohjoisranta 4 大小都能在科学中心得到有益的知识,是 科隆迪美术馆 Lapinkävijäntie 4

近 90% 的建筑被毁,如今我们看到的城 市几乎是从灰烬中重建的。至于芬兰是如 何被卷进二战之中,这场席卷世界的大战 84

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

一个适合全家总动员的好地方!

比尔盖科学中心 Ounasjoentie 6


从被白雪覆盖的田园牧歌到描绘一个现代冬季

欢迎来到冰雪之境 对北部芬兰艺术感兴趣的你一定不

是一切,它是芬兰人的根,是芬兰人的精

能错过科隆迪文化中心(Korundi)。这

神家园。也正因此,芬兰人对自身、对社

个文化中心由旧邮政车站改建而成。其主

会、对历史、对世界有着更为深刻的思考。

要部分是艺术博物馆,每年有各种美术作

从很久之前,冬天就被定义是芬兰

品在这里展出 ;夏季里,演奏厅会举行多

的自然和芬兰人的生活方式。在那些日子

场音乐会,其中最著名的是拉普兰管弦乐

里,冬天常常是可怕的。芬兰人的民族史

团。也因此,科隆迪成为罗瓦涅米艺术文

诗《卡勒瓦拉》(Kalevala)中便为观者

化的心脏。在文化中心的纪念品商店,你

描述了一个寒冷而沉闷的 Pohjola,它指

能够买到来自当地艺术家的手工艺作品, 的就是北方寒冷的国度(极地地区)。如

科隆迪文化中心 (Korundi)

既有限量版的首饰、拉普兰特色的创意手

果说北部拉普兰的夏天为我们展现的是短

作,还有各种充满童趣的商品。

暂、温暖、明亮,那么拉普兰的的冬季带

这个夏天,科隆迪文化中心将有 40

来的却是漫长、严寒、黑暗。直到 19 世

位艺术家展出他们的画作,欢迎游客们来

纪末,人们才开始看到冬天象征的生存和

到拉普兰这个冰雪之境。大自然对芬兰人

韧性的意义。 寒冷、黑暗、大雪纷飞的

来说意味着什么?冬天对芬兰人意味着什

冬天并不意味着生活就停滞了。对芬兰人

么?芬兰三分之二的国土面积被森林覆

来说,生活是值得被期待和享受的,而不

盖,即使在南部大区的城市生活,森林也

仅仅是生存。

近在咫尺。冬季白雪皑皑,一片寂静。夏

在巴黎学习的芬兰艺术家们利用他

日藤蔓枝茂,林间有浆果鲜蘑,有鸟雀鸣

们在巴黎学到的东西进行创作。他们不畏

叫。所以,芬兰人与自然的关系非常紧密。 严寒,在室外描绘芬兰的冬天。他们的作 这从芬兰的文学作品中便可见一斑。曾获

品有时是明媚阳光下闪闪发光的雪景,有

诺贝尔文学奖的西朗佩在《夏夜的人们》 时是人烟罕至的树林深处覆盖着积雪的树

展 览 开 幕 时 间 为 2018 年 6 月 14 日(周四)18 点,展出时间 为 6 月 15 日至 10 月 21 日。

中形容这样的芬兰 : “北方的夏天,夜幕

木。作品本身的时间跨度从 19 世纪延伸

迟迟不肯降临,黄昏久久徘徊不去,暮色

到 21 世纪。因此,这个关于冰雪之境的

在流连中渐渐苍老,即便天色渐暗,也给

艺术展挑战着参观者的认知 :冬天的重要

人难以言喻的明朗之感,仿佛黎明不久将

性是否发生了变化?人类对于冬天的观感

至。迟暮就像一曲舒缓的旋律,悠扬的音

是否依旧?游客如何体验寒冷的自然并享

符在紫罗兰色的晚霞中愈发轻柔,直至划

受芬兰冬季的异国情调?这个夏季欢迎来

上短暂的休止符。”大自然对芬兰人来说

到科隆迪探索冰雪之境的意义。 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

85


罗瓦涅米是芬兰北部拉普 兰省的省会,也是世界上唯一 设在北极圈上的省会,林木 青葱,秀丽宁静。对于芬兰人 来说,这里是冬天滑雪季的美 丽度假地 ;这里的夏天也是避 暑纳凉、远离城市喧嚣的绝好 目的地。这个世界著名的小镇 或许只是你芬兰之旅当中一个 小小的驻留地,你或许只有一 天的时间感受拉普兰的风土人 情,圣诞老人或许是唯一吸引 你而来的那个人。于是,不少 游客会问,罗瓦涅米除了最吸 引人的官方身份——被联合国 认可的圣诞老人的故乡,夏天 还有些什么好玩的呢?今天就 让我们跟随真正的芬兰人,来 一个地道的罗瓦涅米游,体验 这个北极小镇里的倏忽一夏。

倏忽一夏 @ 罗瓦涅米

8:00 am 沐浴在阳光中的早晨 拉开厚厚的遮光窗帘,拉普兰夏季的晨光立刻就满溢 了进来。夏天的时候住在拉普兰传统的红色小木屋中,才 是体验拉普兰风情的最佳选择。对于许多芬兰人来说,打 造一间属于自己的小木屋是一个从小到大的梦想。芬兰人 对于美好的生活、雅致的情调的期许从他们的湖边小木屋 就可以传达出来。有一句俗语道出了芬兰人对于生活的渴 望——红色小屋与马铃薯田。只要有一间自己的小屋,和 一片可以种马铃薯的田地,生活家园就有了轮廓。芬兰人 对于简单纯朴生活的念想可见一斑。或许这也就是我们在 夏季选择入住圣诞老人村旁的木屋酒店的原因。这里不仅 距离世界著名的圣诞老人咫尺之遥,住在这里还能够坐拥 屋后的一大片原始森林,可以说是出门即森林的最佳写照

芬兰人喜爱的燕麦粥也有源于拉普兰本地的各种莓果酱,

了。在夏天,拉普兰的太阳像是永远都不会落下一般。清

可以说是非常健康了。不过我印象比较深刻的还是自制的

晨起床的我们走过林间的小道,来到餐厅享受悠闲的早餐

蛋奶松饼,怪不得餐厅里的人都被它的香气吸引而来,排

时光。他家的自助早餐秉持了芬兰传统的美食文化,既有

起了队伍呢 ~

86

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018


10:00 am 遇见圣诞老人 早餐后,来到鼎鼎大名的圣诞老人村的我们怎 能不去看看这个芬兰最有名的人物呢?不要以为只 有在圣诞节期间才能见到圣诞老人,勤劳的圣诞老 人和他的小精灵们可是全年无休地工作的!他们在 每年的 12 月显得格外忙碌,只有在圣诞夜(12 月 24 日)才会少工作半天。在夏天(6 月到 8 月), 圣诞老人的作息是朝九晚六的,所以完全不用担心 见不到他哦 ~ 如果你不是跟我们一样住在老人村旁 边,可以在市中心乘坐 8 路公交车前往圣诞老人设 在北极圈之上的办公室。在这里,圣诞老人接收来 自全球孩子们的信件,为他们答疑解惑 ;同时,来 访的游客也能和圣诞老人亲切握手,拍照留念,难 得的是周游列国的圣诞老人还能讲上两句标准的普

这个邮局的特别之处在于,从他们邮局寄出的明信片都会被敲

通话,让人倍感亲切。在圣诞老人村,我们还有个

上一个圣诞老人专用的邮戳。除了拍照寄明信片之外,“打卡”

重要任务,那就是前往圣诞老人邮局,为国内的亲

也是必不可缺的。在圣诞老人村的旅客咨询中心,我们还领取

朋好友们邮寄明信片,送去一份来自北极圈的问候。 了跨越北极圈的证书,可谓是收获满满~

1:30 pm 博物馆里的秘密 旅游怎么能离得开博物馆呢?罗瓦涅米的北极 博物馆是了解这个城市、地区、人文和历史的好地方。 我们首先看到的是矗立在凯米河边的拱形玻璃长廊, 听说这个特别的建筑设计直指北极,非常好的契合 了这个博物馆的立身之本——立足罗瓦涅米本地文 化,同时关注北极生态人文的宗旨和目标。在北极 博物馆里,我们才第一次认认真真的了解了芬兰在 二战中的历史。这个看似平和安宁的国家也曾经饱 经风霜,度过好长一段由国家统一管理物资配给的 日子。除了历史方面的知识,我们也看到了许多拉 普兰地区的动植物标本,譬如一比一大小的驯鹿标 本和麋鹿标本。作为鹿类中唯一被驯养的动物,驯 鹿在拉普兰人的生活中占据了极大的比重。从放牧

4:00 pm 夏季的二哈们 今天早上起床时,我们本还不确定下午的哈士奇狗场之

工具、驯养环境到放养图片,游客们都能细细阅览。

旅能否成行,听说夏季的温度高于 15 摄氏度,二哈们就不

当然,来到了北极博物馆最不能错过的就是观看北

能愉快地奔跑了。什么?你以为只有冬天才能够乘坐哈士奇

极光的视频了。夏天虽然可以来拉普兰感受极昼的

雪橇?那你就孤陋寡闻咯 ~ 夏天的时候,游客也可以乘坐在

魅力,却少了追极光的刺激。好在在博物馆里,躺

雪橇或是二轮车上,让哈士奇犬们带着你一起奔跑。同行的

着也能看极光 ~

小伙伴们担心狗狗们拉雪橇会不会太累,哈士奇狗场的主人 却告诉我们说,二哈们其实是非常喜爱奔跑的,有时它们甚 至会因为太兴奋而显得格外腻人。不过室外温度太高的话的 确是不适宜它们进行高强度的运动,好在今天的温度比较舒 适(六月初 11℃左右),而我们则非常幸运咯 ~ 于是,在参 观了狗场设施之后,我们先是被带到了“小狗集中营”,和 这些萌萌哒的小狗们来了个亲密接触。狗场主人可以说是非 常了解中国人的喜好了,在我们摆了无数个姿势之后,还极 有耐心的指导我们和狗狗们来了个大合照。最后,我们每两 人坐进了一架二轮车中,由 6 只成年哈士奇牵引着跑过了一 小段森林。耳畔回荡的是二哈们的喘息声,鼻尖闻到的是拉 普兰青草的香气,而目之所及的是郁郁葱葱的森林。这种不 同于冬季的美同样让人沉醉 ~ ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

87


6:30 pm 拉普兰风味 晚餐我们选择了正宗的拉普兰风味——Nili 餐厅。这 家位于罗瓦涅米市中心的餐厅选取拉普兰当地新鲜食材, 从河中鲜鱼到森林驯鹿又或是本地的莓果菌菇,都被厨师 们用心烹调成美味、奉上餐桌。你以为这些都是我瞎编的 吗?才不是!当你拿着菜单不知所措的时候,Nili 的侍应 生就会询问你的国籍,然后殷勤的奉上中文的菜单!餐点 上桌的时候,服务生还会体贴地为我们详细介绍每道餐品, 将其中的调味和成分都一一详述,服务之周到让我们印象 深刻。不过最让我们耳目一新的还是 Nili 餐厅中纯拉普兰 风格的装饰 :原木的桌椅板凳、垂吊着的驯鹿角灯饰、挂 靠在墙头的完整棕熊皮、被布置成拉普兰式帐篷的隔间和 悬挂在空中的鸟类标本等等,再再让人流连忘返。

9:00 pm 极昼的热力 晚上九点的太阳依然明晃晃地挂在天边,丝毫不因 “夜晚”的降临而有任何逊色。晚饭后的我们打算去奥纳 斯山上散步消食。奥纳斯山是罗瓦涅米本地唯一的一座 小山头,不过当地人却是非常懂得物尽其用。不仅依山 而建了圣诞体育中心、高尔夫球场等,人们还能够在山 巅享用美食、徒步旅行。同时,奥纳斯山也是在这个季 节里眺望整座城市的最佳地点,沿着步道走到山顶的瞭 望台便能在午夜时分的日光中将脚下的美景全都纳入眼 帘 ~ 我拿起手机看了一眼,晚上十点十五分。 当我们下山的时候,这座城市似乎还完全没有进入 睡眠时分的迹象。兴奋的年轻人们架着摩托车飞驰在高 速上,志同道合的朋友们结伴去蹦迪、桑拿。夏天里, 拉普兰人都沉迷于极昼的热力之中,睡觉也变得不那么 重要了 ~ 对于很多人来说,出门旅行就是买买买,然而 拉普兰人却告诉我们,生活应该慢下来,享受大自然中

尊享拉普兰风味

品尝最正宗的拉普兰风味,NILI餐厅是您的不二选择。 位于罗瓦涅米市中心的NILI选取拉普兰当地新鲜食材,不 仅有河中鲜鱼、森林驯鹿、莓果菌菇,甚至还有最正宗的 熊肉!在这里,让您鱼和熊掌兼得~ 在拉普兰风格的餐厅 中,NILI必将让您爱上当地人用心烹调的每一味。

Valtakatu 20, Rovaniemi 电话: 地址:Nili,88 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 +358 40 036 9669 营业时间:周二至周六17:00-23:00

电邮:restaurant@nili.fi

的漫无目的和静谧安宁,让自己放空。


加油

三文

村的

圣诞 米 瓦涅

餐厅

洞穴

人的

老 圣诞

会面

展览

邮局

老人

圣诞

里 1公

s

u a Cla

illage ay V d li o H

圈 北极

品刀

尼名

蒂 马拉

Sant

No

与圣

主题

圣诞

Wild

动预

季活

夏 rdic

人 诞老

7公

息中

客信

旅 极圈

牧场

驯鹿

餐厅

普兰

vi 拉

ho Kota

圣诞老人邮局

圣诞主题展览

北极圈旅客信息中心

圣诞邮局中,小精灵们帮忙贩售明信片

你 知 道 芬 兰 的 圣 诞 老 人 叫

在北极圈的圣诞老人村,位于绿色方形

和邮票、分装来自全世界的圣诞老人信 “Joulupukki”吗?你知道几世纪前的

i 标志下的就是旅客信息中心。在这里,

徒们的信件。写完明信片后,你可以选

圣诞传统是什么吗?在圣诞邮局旁边的

你不仅能获颁原版北极圈跨越证书,能

择红色的圣诞邮筒或橘色的平日邮筒。 圣诞屋中圣诞主题展览展示了芬兰圣诞

私人定制拉普兰地区的旅游行程,甚至

所有的明信片都会被敲上圣诞老人村特

还可以现金退税。旅客信息中心全年无

传统和拉普兰圣诞老人,还有全世界各

殊的纪念邮戳,为亲朋好友们送去祝福。 国那些最有趣的圣诞文化。

休,恭候来自世界各地的游客。

驯鹿牧场

Kotahovi拉普兰餐厅 马拉蒂尼名品刀具

红鼻子鲁道夫是童话中为圣诞老人驱

位于圣诞老人村后的 Kotahovi 餐厅是

诞生于极地严冬和极昼午夜的马拉蒂

使、为好孩子们送去圣诞礼物和惊喜欢

一家传统的拉普兰餐厅。建筑形似传统

尼刀具极适合北欧严酷的环境,不过

乐的驯鹿。在圣诞老人村怎么能不拜访

拉普兰式帐篷,餐厅内饰由驯鹿角装饰

如今它也已经成为包括美国和加拿大

驯鹿牧场、看看鲁道夫的同胞们呢!夏

而成。你不仅能品尝到传统驯鹿肉,还

在内的家庭必需物件。不管是拥有全

季里,你也能够造访圣诞老人办公室后

有取自当地新鲜食材的正宗拉普兰特色

球限量编号的大马士革刀还是年度刀

的驯鹿牧场,说不定还有机会看到今年 刚刚诞生的小驯鹿呢 ~ 90

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

餐饮。餐厅于 2018 年 6 月 2 日开放, 具,马拉蒂尼的精良品质都让人惊艳。 营业时间为周一至周六 12 时至 16 时。 售于罗瓦涅米马拉蒂尼工厂店。


ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

91


92

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

All About Lapland – Summer 2018  
New
Advertisement