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Editor’s Letter Welcome to the March issue of Cosmetic News. Last month saw the fourth annual Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference take place at the Business Design Centre in Islington. With record numbers of visitors through the door and with a packed scientific educational programme running alongside, the show has gone from strength to strength and we have had some phenomenal feedback from visitors and exhibitors alike. I would like to thank all of our exhibitors, in particular our Gold Sponsor Merz Aesthetics, our Silver Sponsor, Syneron Candela, our Bronze Sponsor Sinlair IS Pharma and our Hospitality Sponsor, ObveiLine, for helping to make it such a wonderful event. I would also like to thank all of our amazing speakers who gave inspiring, educational and thought-provoking lectures and demos across the two days, and for all of you who turned out to visit the show. To find out exactly what went on see our Show Report on pages 16-27. Now that the show is over for this year we will be turning our attention to our next big event – The Aesthetic Awards. We have just announced the date – November 30, 2013 – so keep an eye out on www.cosmeticnewsuk. com and in future issues of Cosmetic News for more details. On to this month’s issue… Peeling is one of the oldest rejuvenation tricks in the book and on pages 28-30 Dr Xavier Goodarzian shares his clinical experiences with different peeling techniques. Dr Sotirios Foutsizoglou talks about hair loss treatments on p34-35 and we chat to Elliot Isaacs about his ground breaking new vitamin C product, CE-Thione™ (p42). We also take a look at the latest in skin imaging technology - the Antera 3D™ Skin Analysis Camera. I hope you enjoy reading this month’s issue and, as always, welcome your feedback.


Vicky Eldridge on iovera˚ 6 INDUSTRY NEWS

Weroundupthelatestindustrynews 10 NEWS SPECIAL

WereportontheannualIMCAS conference in Paris

44 Q&A

Editor’s choice iovera˚

We speak to Dariel Sydney the Internationalmarketingdirectorfor AthenaCosmeticsaboutthenew RevitaLash® FineLine Primer

One of the most exciting things about working in the aesthetics industry is the development of new technologies that offer dynamic new treatment modalities. At the IMCAS meeting in Paris last month, one such development that had everyone talking was iovera˚.


TheAntera3D™SkinAnalysisCamera 48 PRODUCT NEWS


iovera˚ is the world’s first toxin free dynamic wrinkle treatment to be approved in Europe. Developed by myoscience, the treatment received CE mark approval on 24 January, 2013 and is being hailed as a breakthrough treatment for dynamic facial lines.




Findreportonwhathappenedatthisyear’sCosmeticNews Expo and Aesthetics Conference

One of the most appealing things for patients and practitioners alike is the fact that the treatment is not only toxin free but that results are immediately visible. The treatment is based upon myoscience’s platform technology, Focused Cold Therapy ™. It works by using the body’s natural response to cold to temporarily relax the facial muscles that cause wrinkles. Clint Carnell, CEO of myoscience, says, “CE approval marks a significant milestone for myoscience in paving the way to commercialise our product in Europe. iovera˚ is an exciting advance meeting the clear need for a toxin-free treatment whilst expanding treatment choice.”





DrXavierGoodarzianonchemicalpeels 34 HAIR LOSS

Inthefirstofatwopartarticle,Dr SotiriosFoutsizogloulooksathair loss treatments

WespeaktoMichaelDoddMDof EllipseandVenusSystemsabouthow thecompanyhasbecomeoneofthe mostsuccessfulequipmentsuppliers in the UK aesthetics market SameerPatelfromEllevenonwhy andhowinteriordesignaffects patientsatisfactionandcanhelpto increase revenue

Dr Yannis Alexandrides, plastic surgeon at 111 Harley Street, London, is collaborating with myoscience in clinical investigations and he will be the first to provide iovera˚ treatments in the UK when the product is launched commercially. He says, “iovera˚ represents a significant development in medical aesthetics treatments and a welcome addition to the physician’s tool box. I know from experience that there are many patients for whom toxin treatments are not an option; iovera˚ meets the needs of patients today. There is no waiting to see if the treatment has worked; the results are seen immediately which is very exciting.”


Watch this space!


We take a look at the Q-Med, a GaldermaDivision,portfolioandfind outabouttheirplanstore-brand



WespeaktoDrRajAcquillaandDr TapanPatelaboutwhytheydecided tostartrunningtheirowninjectables masterclasses


WefindoutaboutthenewGenuine Dermaroller™eDSSkinRejuvenation device


AntoniaMaricondafindsoutwhata typicalDayintheLifehasinstorefor Tracy Mountford


WechattoMedik8founderand pharmacologistElliotIsaacsabouthis latestinnovation,CE-Thione™

Focused Cold Therapy™ delivers precise cold to peripheral nerve tissue. Nerves treated with this technology undergo a predictable period of dormancy, followed by complete restoration of function. iovera˚ treats forehead lines immediately with results lasting up to four months. The procedure is designed for use in a minor treatments room and takes about 15 minutes. iovera˚ will be first available in select centres of excellence, including London, before becoming more widely available across Europe throughout 2013.


The latest dates for your diary


Charlotte Body Publisher

Kevin Hogg Publications Manager

Vicky Eldridge Editor M: 07940 083 677

Corinne Winkworth Operations Manager

Peter Johnson, Art Director

Sophie Belcher Events/Production

Sean Rice Senior Designer

Carly Mcfarlane Sales and Events Assistant DISCLAIMER

The editor and the publishers do not necessarily agree with the views expressed by contributors and advertisers nor do they accept responsibility for any errors in the transmission of the subject matter in this publication. In all matters the editor’s decision is final.

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Save the Date! Cosmetic News is delighted to announce that the third annual Aesthetic Awards will take place on Saturday November 30, 2013. The Aesthetic Awards is the premier awards event for the aesthetics industry and will once again be celebrating the achievements of the practitioners, clinics, products and treatments that represent the gold standard in cosmetic medicine. This year’s event will see a total of 30 awards categories including two new categories: Training Provider of the Year and Training Course of the Year. We will be announcing more details in next month’s issue. You can also check out all the categories and find out how to enter on


MDU won’t cover non-FDA approved fillers in indemnity policy The Medical Defence Union has announced that from April 1, 2013 its membership benefits for members performing treatments with dermal fillers will change and they won’t be covered for dermal filler brands which don’t have an American FDA approval, despite dermal fillers in the UK being regulated by European CE Mark regulation. The MDU underwriters stated in a letter to members; “While we carefully consider requests for help, it is unlikely that the MDU will provide support or representation for any claim arising in respect of a treatment or procedure carried out on or after April 1, 2013 which involves any dermal filler, unless the product is one which has been approved, prior to your use of it, by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States of America.” They went on to say; “Insured cover for claim notifications arising from non-FDA approved filler use after April 2013 will extend only up until the end of the current policy year. There will be an exclusion in respect of claims arising from the use of non FDA approved dermal fillers in subsequent membership periods.”

Mike Regan, chair of the BSI Committee CH/403 Aesthetic Surgery Services gives us an update on the new European Draft Standard: Aesthetic Surgery and Aesthetic Non-Surgical Medical Services The public consultation process held last year for the European standard for Aesthetic Surgery Services, EN 16372, received a large number of comments from European countries, including the UK. The comments have now been reviewed by the European committee and as a result the draft has undergone significant changes. The revised draft is now going out for a second public consultation before moving on to the final stage in its development process. As a result of feedback received during the first consultation, the title of the standard has been changed from ‘aesthetic surgery services’ to ‘aesthetic surgery and aesthetic non-surgical medical services’ to reflect its wide scope. EN 16372 is a proposed European standard and has to take in to account the nature and country variances across the European market place with regards to aesthetic surgery. To accommodate the UK’s country requirements with regards to cosmetic surgery, BSI has requested for a number of exceptions to be included in the draft for review. These exceptions can be found in Annex C of the draft. The British Standards Institution (BSI) is leading the consultation process in the UK and interested parties from the aesthetics sector can register their comments online at from March 16 2013. The final version of the standard is expected to be published in 2014.

FDA approved dermal fillers include Restylane®, Radiesse®, Sculptra® and Belotero® and Juvéderm®.

Mike Regan Chair, BSI Committee CH/403 Aesthetic Surgery Services



Royal College of Surgeons Publishes Professional Standards for Cosmetic Practice Guidelines

ThermaVein™ enters into exclusive distribution agreement with Tekno Surgical

Only surgeons should provide cosmetic surgery and only doctors, dentists and nurses who have undertaken appropriate training should provide non-surgical cosmetic treatments such as Botox, those are the recommendations from a new set of professional standards for cosmetic practice published by the Royal College of Surgeons of England (RCS). The RCS issued the 44 page document entitled ‘Professional Standards for Cosmetic Practice’ ahead of the much anticipated Department of Health cosmetic intervention review being undertaken by Sir Bruce Keogh, which is due to publish its findings this month. The comprehensive document focuses on the behaviour and competencies medical 6

professionals should be expected to demonstrate when providing cosmetic procedures. Professor Norman Williams, president of the Royal College of Surgeons, said, “While the colleges and professional organisations involved in cosmetic practice are neither regulators nor legislators, the profession has a responsibility to provide standards to which we would expect our members to work. We have serious concerns that not all those who offer cosmetic procedures are adequately qualified, or that patients are getting accurate information prior to treatment. We hope these standards will feed into the ongoing review of the industry led by the NHS medical director, Sir Bruce Keogh, and improve quality of care for patients going forward.”

ThermaVein™ has entered into an exclusive distribution contract for the UK and Ireland with Tekno Surgical. Tekno Surgical is part of SISK Healthcare and the 150 year old SISK Group. This means ThermaVein™ now has extensive sales cover from an experienced and reputable distributor. ThermaVein™ is now actively looking for international distributors to take on the rights worldwide.

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Professorship for Mr Mark Whiteley

Code of Cosmetic Practice Welcomed by Surgeons The British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons has welcomed the publication of the Professional Standards for Cosmetic Practice report by the Royal College of Surgeons. According to consultant plastic surgeon and BAAPS President Rajiv Grover, “At the BAAPS we welcome the Royal College of Surgeons’ appreciation of the urgent need for stricter controls in the cosmetic sector. This report is a step in the right direction and its content will have fed into the call for evidence of Sir Bruce Keogh’s review, which will conclude, determining recommendations for a regulation framework, in March. The entire aesthetics sector now awaits the delivery of the Keogh review, to establish future strategy for regulation and protection of the public – and we look forward to helping define the shape of things to come.”


Mr Mark Whiteley has been offered an appointment as a visiting professor at The University of Surrey. The honorary professorship in the Faculty of Health and Medical Science will start from next month. Mr Whiteley is a consultant vascular surgeon and director of The Whiteley Clinic and Absolute Aesthetics. He has won many prizes for his research as well as having more than 60 peer-reviewed publications. He was the first person in the UK to perform the Laser Sweat Ablation operation for axillary hyperhidrosis. He said, “This is a wonderful continuation of increasingly strong research links between The Whiteley Clinic and The University of Surrey.”


Dr Patrick Treacy invited on lecture tour of South America Dr Patrick Treacy from Ailesbury Clinic, Dublin has been invited on a lecture tour of Ecuador, Venezuela and Columbia.

Dr Treacy was also recently invited as key-note speaker at the World Congress of the American Academy of Aesthetics, Anti-Ageing in Mexico City to speak about his award winning facial rejuvenation technique - The DUBLiN Lift. The name of the novel rejuvenation technique is an acronym of the procedures involved: Dermaroller, UltraPulse laser, Blood growth factors, Light (near-red 633 nm), and Neurotoxin. 


Animal-Tested Cosmetics Ban Will Take Effect in March 2013

The European Commission has confirmed that a full ban on the sale of animal-tested cosmetics will take effect in the EU in March 2013.

The American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) has released its 2012 statistics. Minimally-invasive procedures increased 6%, with more than 13 million procedures in 2012. Cosmetic surgical procedures decreased 2%, with nearly 1.6 million procedures in 2012. Facial rejuvenation procedures, experienced the most growth. 2012 marked the highest number of botulinum toxin type A (Botox®, Dysport®) injections performed to date. Other facial rejuvenation procedures like soft tissue fillers, laser skin resurfacing and microdermabrasion also saw sizable increases.


“This is a great day for animals, consumers and science”, says PETA Associate Director Mimi Bekhechi. “The 2013 ban reflects the public’s conviction that cosmetics cannot come before animals’ lives, and PETA is pleased that the commission has responded to the campaigns to defend the ban and recognised the huge support that the ban has across Europe”.In 2003, the European Parliament voted to end the sale of all cosmetics and toiletries containing ingredients tested on animals by 2013. Although the testing of cosmetics on animals is already banned in the EU, companies that test elsewhere can still sell their products in the EU until the total ban comes into effect. The cosmetics-testing ban has driven the development of non-animal testing methods, which can replace the use of animals in cosmetics testing and other forms of product-safety testing. The replacement of existing animal tests has already saved hundreds of thousands of animals, and many more can be saved as new techniques are developed and validated. In China, officials are in the final stages of approving the use of the country’s very first non-animal testing methods for cosmetics ingredients, thanks to guidance from scientists funded by PETA US.

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References: 1. Raspaldo H. J Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 2008;10:134–142. 2. Fischer TC. Poster presented at EMAA, 1–3 October 2009, Paris. 3. Allergan Data on File (DoF), 2011. 4. Allergan Data on File (DoF) Marketing overview, 2011. Instructions and directions for use of JUvéDeRm® vOLUmA® with Lidocaine are available on request. Lidocaine does not affect the intrinsic performances of JuvéDERM® vOLuMA® and its safety profile, therefore, JuvéDERM® vOLuMA® data is representative of JuvéDERM® vOLuMA® with Lidocaine3

Date of Preparation: January 2013 UK/0008/2013a


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UNE BONNE CONFERENCE We report on the annual IMCAS meeting in Paris

Attending the IMCAS meeting in Paris has become somewhat of a tradition for UK aesthetic practitioners and companies alike. The first international meeting of the year, its extensive scientific conference programme and manufacturer led symposiums attract delegates from across the globe while the exhibition sees the European launch of new products and treatments, which were then showcased for the first time in the UK at our own event, the Cosmetic News Expo, on February 16-17 (see pages 16-27). With home-grown names also taking to the podium to speak, Cosmetic News publisher Charlotte Body and editor Vicky Eldridge travelled over to Paris along with Mandy Cameron, the coordinator of this year’s Aesthetic Conference, to catch up with some familiar faces and check out what’s new in the industry.

face case studies were showcased. This is definitely one to watch.

Although journalists are not allowed to sit in on the scientific sessions, the symposiums and networking gave us an insight into what we could expect in the industry in the coming year. One treatment that had everyone talking was iovera˚, a new toxin free wrinkle relaxing procedure, which uses Focused Cold Therapy™ to ‘freeze’ the muscles that cause frown lines. Looking promising as the first real alternative to botulinum toxin injections, as well as an adjunct to this gold standard treatment, the introductory symposium to the technology was packed with those eager to learn about this exciting development. Although the duration of treatment is much shorter than botulinum toxin (two-three months) the treatment offers immediate results and some impressive split 10

Another exciting launch came from Allergan with its new lip shaper JUVÉDERM® VOLBELLA® with Lidocaine. The product has been specifically designed for the lips and peri-oral area, not only to gently restore natural-looking lip volume, but also for defining lip contours, treating oral commissures, smoothing fine ‘barcode’ lines around the lips and supporting the ‘marionette’ lines down to the chin. While many leading dermal filler manufacturers have brought lip products to market, what

makes JUVÉDERM® VOLBELLA® with Lidocaine particularly exciting is the fact it is the only hyaluronic acid dermal filler proven to last up to 12 months in the lips with a single treatment. Developed using Allergan’s proprietary VYCROSS™ technology, it is formulated with an innovative combination of low and high molecular weight technology, which improves the cross-linking efficiency of HA chains. This more effective cross-linking allows for a lower concentration of HA to be used, which results in less swelling. The VYCROSS™ technology also delivers an ultra smooth gel, which results in a natural look and feel, as well as the improved duration and because of its unique viscosity it requires far less extrusion force, making injection easier for practitioners. Another filler, which had a strong presence at the show and has been making its mark in the UK recently is Stylage®, which has just launched its own lidocaine additions. Stylage® is the first product on the market which contains crosslinked HA (patented IPN-Like Technology), the anti-oxidant mannitol that provides less swelling and extended longevity and lidocaine for comfort and safety for both for patients and physicians. Stylage® is one of the most popular dermal fillers in France, so it is no surprise that the Paris event is an important one for manufacturers Vivacy and, for the second year in a row, the Cosmetic News team was delighted to be invited to attend the company’s plush gala dinner by UK distributor David Gower from Medical Aesthetic Group. We joined some

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BO NNE A NNIV ER S A IR E of the UK users of the product including Dr Martyn King and Sharon King, Dr Alan Jones as well as MAG’s Katrina Ellison, Lynne Thomas from Flipside PR and Ron Sullivan from Court House Clinics at the glamorous do, which was once again a night to remember. Following a decadent three-course meal we were treated to entertainment by the dancers from Paris’ famous Crazy Horse – an eye opening but enjoyable experience! (see p13 for pictures). Back to business and Sculptra® proved it was back on the map as Sinclair IS Pharma hosted a press conference on the treatment with leading dermatologist Danny Vleggaar, a worldwide expert with 12 years experience with the product and top French plastic surgeon Dr Frederique Olivier-

The Allergan stand

Masveyraud. The session focused on Sculptra® as an effective collagen stimulator and the ‘beauty and artistry of 3D facial sculpting for natural and gradual deep tissue regeneration’. Lutrionic were showcasing their latest product: CLARITY. CLARITY is one of the most versatile dual-wavelength platforms on the market, with multiple indications for top aesthetic laser physicians worldwide. With two workhorse wavelengths, the long-pulsed 755 nm Alexandrite and 1064 nm Nd:YAG, in one easy-to-use device, physicians may gently remove pigmented lesions, unwanted hair, tighten skin, and ameliorate the appearance of vascular lesions. With the Keogh review dominating thoughts in the UK market of late it was nice to be reminded of the positive and cutting edge treatments that Syneron Candela medical aesthetics is and should be known for. It was also good to socialize with the companies and doctors we work so closely with on a day to day basis and put us well and truly in the mood for the Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference which took place a couple of weeks later.

President of Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd, Global Aesthetics Consultancy and founder/ editor in chief of, Wendy Lewis, gives her views on the IMCAS meeting as it celebrates its 15th anniversary “If you still have doubts about how well the medical aesthetics industry is carrying on, a trip across the channel to IMCAS in Paris should have convinced you that there is indeed an uptick in investment, new launches, and sustainable clinic models. Despite the looming debt crisis across Europe, the medical aesthetics sector was deemed to have proven to be largely recession-proof based on consumer demand and continued growth. Top themes of this year’s congress included volumising, growth factors, skin tightening, body shaping, fat grafting, and variations on PRP. We also saw a new group of hyaluronic acid formulations for targeted areas. Along with Allergan’s launch of Juvederm® Volbella® with Lidocaine for the peri-oral area and lip contours to the EU market, Teoxane Laboratoires showcased PureSense Redensity II Eyes, a semi cross-linked hyaluronic acid with lidocaine for the treatment of under eye circles, tear troughs and malar bags. Among the injectable products to watch on the horizon, Bayer Healthcare had a symposium on the progress of ATX-101, the fat dissolving injectable drug developed by Kythera Biopharmaceuticals. Eternogen™ from the U.S. introduced some compelling early data on a collagen based soft tissue filler enhanced with nanogold particles. On the cosmeceutical side, there was also a lot of interest and excitement on the exhibit floor. The French brand Laboratoires Filorga announced its partnership with MOSTleds to develop LED photobiomodulation for stretchmarks, acne and other skin conditions. ZO® Skin Health’s workshop with Dermatologist Raj Acquilla presented Zein Obagi’s new thinking in skin treatment with topical agents and peels. S&V Technologies from Germany offered up Amalian® Lashes, a serum with a high concentration of the prostaglandin derivative in the formulation, currently undergoing a clinical study. NeoStrata® also introduced their new Enlighten skin brightening trio of products to reverse pigment, which has become an important category under the antiageing umbrella. Skinceuticals® and Solta® presented Permea®, a co-branded effort to combine C E Ferulic® Acid pos Clear + Brilliant treatment. Another new product that caught my eye is the RollerJet® from Israel, a multi-needle syringe for transdermal delivery of serums, peeling agents or hyaluronic acid. The medical device side also had its share of new breakthroughs. There was a lot of fanfare around the long awaited toxin-free iovera˚ technology from myoscience. Based on FCT, Focused Cold Therapy™ for cryoneurmodulation, it targets the nerve directly and is used for the temporary treatment of hyperdynamics of the forehead. Primcogent Solutions introduced the Lunula™ Laser manufactured by Erchonia, a low-level laser therapy for onychomycosis. Syneron Candela presented the new smaller Sublative iD™ Focal Tip introduced for the nasolabial fold and periorbital rim for their portfolio of Sublative™ compatible systems, which includes elos Plus™, eTwo™ and eMatrix™. On a positive note, the aftermath of the PIP crisis appears to be far less depressing than anticipated. According to Dr Bruno Alfandari, president of Le Syndicat National Des Chirurgiens Plasticiens in France, 30,000 patients in France have had PIP implants, with an estimated 500,000 patients worldwide. However 14,000 patients to date have been operated on and the majority of the implants removed were normal with no serious complications. There is less demand among nervous women to have their implants removed or exchanged, and a greater outcry for more factory inspections, better product testing and clinical trials, a strengthening of the CE Mark, plus better labelling, which can only be good for the industry as well as consumers.”

Wendy Lewis 12

Charlotte Body and Dave Wall (Q-Med, a Galderma Diision) Beddo Eghiayan (Wigmore Medical)

Kevin Eley and colleague

Dr Alfredo Hoyos and Dr Ravi Jain

Uzi Blumensohn, CEO and President of EndyMed Medical Ltd. with Roger Bloxham

Gary Conroy and Mandy Cameron

The Coolsculpting team

Charlotte Body and Dr Beatriz Molina

Katrina Ellison (MAG), Dr Martyn King, Dr Dinesh Mani, David Gower, Lynne Thomas, Vicky Eldridge, Charlotte Body, Dr Alan Jones, Sharon King

Katrina Ellison and Ron Sullivan

David Gower

Vicky Eldridge and Lynne Thomas 13


ON TH E S C E N E UK TEAM SWEEP THE BOARD AT SYNERON CANDELA EUROPEAN MEETING Syneron Candela’s UK team proved they were a force to be reckoned with at the recent Annual European sales meeting in Madrid by scooping a series of awards.

outstanding work with Syneron products in Europe. Both Jonathan Hunt and Martyn Roe were both welcomed to the One Million Club and received awards for their work in the UK in 2012.

Martyn Roe collected a trophy for his performance as Number One Sales Person at the European awards, out selling all the sales people in the rest of Europe. Adrian Myric collected a trophy for Top Product Manager for his

Michaela Barker was also awarded Country Manager of the Year for a second year running for the growth of business, its profitability and for her consistent strive to become one of the leaders in the field in terms of customer service.

SKINCEUTICALS REDNESS NEUTRALIZER LAUNCH, LONDON FILM MUSEUM SkinCeuticals recently hosted an exclusive event for some of the most prominent medical clinics practising in the cosmeceutical industry today to mark the launch of its latest product – Redness Neutralizer. More than 90 of the UK’s leading dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic doctors and aestheticians gathered at the London Film Museum for an evening of business inspiration.   Dr Steven Dayan, one of America’s most sought after plastic surgeons, presented his findings and personal insights into how skincare, integrated with clinical procedures, is the key to success within an aesthetic practice. This integrated approach has led Dr Dayan to see an increase in aesthetic procedure results, improving patient loyalty and increasing overall profitability within his practice by over 197%.   Dr Stefanie Williams, one of the UK’s most prevalent dermatologists, launched Redness Neutralizer to the audience, showing the key conditions and benefits of this product for a variety of redness issues. Dr Williams also presented the exceptional, pharmaceutical grade clinical trial results to highlight the products efficacy. Esteemed UK plastic surgeon, Mr Christopher Inglefield finished the evening’s presentations with the outstanding results from his in-clinic observational study, after using this product on severe rosacea patients.


SKINCEUTICALS BALANCING MICROPEEL TREATMENT LAUNCH, EF MEDISPA EF MEDISPA held an event to mark the launch of the new SkinCeuticals Balancing Micropeel Treatment - a unique treatment programme combining the EF MEDISPA philosophy of ‘inner wellbeing for outer beauty’ with SkinCeuticals advanced skincare products. Devised by EF MEDISPA’s head therapist Charlotte Johnson, the treatment unites the new SkinCeuticals Micropeel 20 and 30 facial peels with deep internal, body cleansing; in the form of colonic hydrotherapy and a personalised nutritional programme. It addresses skin concerns such as pigmentation and sun damage, acne and acne scarring and fine lines and wrinkles, as well as balancing the skin tone and brightening the skin. It serves to detox the body and kick-start a different lifestyle in order to subsequently manage the issues, which cause the skin concerns. EF MEDISPA practitioners strongly believe that a holistic way of approaching skin health will achieve the best results for the complexion. Each SkinCeuticals Balancing Micropeel Treatment is bespoke to the individual and includes consultations with an aesthetic therapist, nutritionist and colonic hydrotherapist, who devise tailored treatment plans which consider each person’s lifestyle and personal needs. Charlotte Johnson comments; “I’ve been using SkinCeuticals products for six years personally and professionally and I am a firm believer in the fantastic results achieved by using their advanced cosmeceuticals. My experience working at EF MEDISPA has also taught me that addressing the body as a whole – trying to resolve internal issues as well as external issues, is the best way to address skin concerns. What happens on the outside is often a reflection of what is happening on the inside. I see aesthetic treatments as corrective procedures and believe that good nutrition, colonics and facial skin treatments go hand-in-hand in order to achieve unsurpassed results.”


The only HA dermal lip filler using Allergan’s proprietary VYCROSS ™ technology. Designed for minimal swelling and a smooth, natural look that lasts.



Allergan’s newest innovation is designed for the lips and peri-oral area. It combines the soft and visibly smooth consistency of the JUVÉDERM® range with less swelling and up to 12 months’ duration in the lips with just a single treatment.1 Ask your local Allergan Representative for more information about JUVÉDERM® VOLBELLA® with Lidocaine today. Reference: 1. Eccleston D, Murphy D. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2012:5 1–6. Allergan, Marlow International, 1st Floor, The Parkway Marlow, Buckinghamshire SL7 1YL, UK | January 2013 UK/1296/2012

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Record numbers flocked to the Business Design Centre in Islington, London on February 16-17 for the fourth annual Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference. Here’s a round up of what happened... As the UK’s largest aesthetics trade meeting, the Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference has become a key event in the industry calendar. Offering aesthetic professionals the chance to find out about the latest technologies and products on the market and network with key manufacturers and suppliers, all under one roof, the event took place at the earlier dates of February 16-17, making it the first meeting of the year. The Expo was attended by more than 900 cosmetic doctors, aesthetic nurses, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic dentists, aestheticians and practice managers from the UK and abroad and was supported by the country’s leading manufacturers and suppliers including Merz Aesthetics (Gold Sponsor), Syneron Candela (Silver Sponsor), Sinclair IS Pharma (Bronze Sponsor) and ObvieLine (Hospitality Sponsor). Running alongside the exhibition, as always, was the Aesthetics Conference which gave delegates a chance to hear from UK and

international speakers at the same time as gaining valuable CPD points (see page 24). Cosmetic News publisher Charlotte Body said, “I was delighted at the success of this year’s event. The feedback from delegates on the quality of this year’s programme was fantastic and with record numbers attending. This success is also due to making the decision to be the first event of the year by moving the event to February. I would like to thank everyone that attended from delegates and speakers to the exhibitors and sponsors. I would also like to thank our team here for working so hard to organise the event. We will be launching our dates for next year’s Expo and we will also be running regional conferences in 2013. Watch this space.” For more pictures from the event visit or see our Facebook page Cosmetic New S. Here is a round up of who our exhibitors were and what they were showcasing at the event…



THE EXHIBITORS 3D-LIPO | The 3D stand attracted a lot of attention

4T MEDICAL | 4T medical is the exclusive UK and

during the Expo as it perfomred live demos of its two cutting

Ireland distributor for amalian natural beauty systems and

edge treatments: 3D-lipo and 3D-skintech. 3D-lipo offers

was displaying its monophasic and biphasic HA dermal filler

a powerful new dimension in non-surgical fat removal, the

ranges as well as amalian LASHES serum, its novel patent

treatment of cellulite and skin tightening for both face and

pending formulation designed for eyelash revitalisation and its

body. 3D-skintech combines rotational microdermabrasion,

newly launched amalian high potency skincare products. Julien

radio-frequency, electro-mesotherapy and LED and can be

Tordjmann was delighted with the response they had at the

combined with the new skintech skincare line for effectively

show. He said, “It is the best show we have ever done”.

targeting, anti-ageing, pigmentation and acne conditions. Managing director Roy Cowley said, “It has been a great

ABC LASERS | Award-winning ABC Lasers is a regular

opportunity for us to showcase the new skintech and it has

exhibitor at the show and as always the stand was busy

been received very well.”

throughout the two days. The UK distributor of Alma Lasers’


OUR SPONSORS such as Motif Painless laser hair removal, Velashape, sublime, sublative and Gentlelasers are now everyday terms used in the industry globally. One man who has created a media buzz with his use of Syneron Candela’s technology is Dr Ariel Haus who flew in to give a workshop on the second day of the event entitled ‘Velashape II - Brazilian Bottom and the Madonna Eye-Lift’ where he shared his secrets of creating new ‘in the media’ treatments.

SINCLAIR IS PHARMA (BRONZE SPONSORS) MERZ AESTHETICS (GOLD SPONSORS) As one of the major players in the field of aesthetics and the Gold Sponsors of the Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference 2013, Merz Aesthetics had a strong presence at the event and won the title of Best Exhibition Stand. The company was showcasing its wide range of marketleading products, including its portfolio of injectable facial aesthetic brands: Radiesse, with its unique formulation and volumising effects and the most studied dermal filler brand in the world and Belotero HA dermal filler, which offers superior tissue integration for significantly greater evenness of the treated areas. The company was also promoting its on-line ePharmacy service which means you can prescribe for your patients’ needs 24/7. Fiona Sibeijn said, “It has been a fantastic weekend we have been very very busy. We have had good discussions with lots of new customers. Some very interesting speaker sessions have been on and that has led to lots of delegates coming to visit us at the stand and ask some quite challenging questions, but questions that have really suited our products.”

SYNERON CANDELA (SILVER SPONSORS) Syneron Candela was proud to sponsor the Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference once again. Syneron Candela is a global brand leader in technology innovation. Its treatments, leading aesthetic, dermatological and surgical technologies ABC was showcasing the latest addition to the portfolio: The Soprano ICE. The ICE is the next generation in laser hair removal and utilises Alma’s patented SHR techology further raising the bar on fast, efficient and painless hair removal for all skin types (see Product News).

ACUMAG | Acumag drew a lot of interest from passing visitors by offering live demonstrations of its deep tissue and facial massagers. The deep tissue massager was designed to treat shoulder and back pain as well as cellulite.

ACADEMY OF ADVANCED BEAUTY | The Academy of Advanced Beauty was giving visitors to the show exclusive discounts on its internationally recognised training courses for next generation aesthetic treatments. The courses are accredited either by CIBTAC or the Guild of Beauty Therapists New courses include ‘Cryotherapy induced lipolysis: the new application for fat reduction’ and ‘Ultrasonic lipo-cavitation’.

ADVANCE CLINIC, TRAINING & CONSULTANCY | Visitors to the Expo could find out about Advance’s advanced skin workshops and high-quality laser technician courses throughout Northern Ireland, Ireland and the UK. Advance consists of highly qualified and experienced lecturers

Sinclair IS Pharma, were this year’s Bronze Sponsors and used the Expo as the platform to re-introduce Sculptra® to the UK market. The company hosted two workshops: an Artistry of 3D Facial Sculpting Masterclass with Dr Danny Vleggaar and a special Ask The Expert session also with Dr Vleggaar. The workshops were packed with delegates crowding into the room to hear this world renowned expert talk about his experience with Sculptra®. One of the key messages from the masterclass was not to treat areas of the face in isolation, but using a full face approach to create natural looking rejuvenation. The company was also showcasing its marketleading brand Kelocote®. The cutting edge in scar treatments, Kelocote®. forms a bond with the outer layer of the skin, protecting the scar and allowing it to mature through normal collagen synthesis cycles. This softens and flattens raised scars; reduces redness and discolouration and relieves itching and discomfort.

OBVIELINE (HOSPITALITY SPONSORS) A regular exhibitor at the Cosmetic News Expo, ObvieLine were the Hospitality Sponsors of this year’s event. ObvieLine is the manufacturer of the Perfectha® range of fillers. Perfectha® is the latest-generation of hyaluronic acid cross-linked with the E-brid technology to fill wrinkles, augment tissue volume and lip contour. The product line is composed of four products.

who provide the highest standard of training available. The company provides training in laser hair removal, IPL, tattoo removal, laser skin resurfacing, and laser vein reduction and said they got lots of “high quality leads” at the show.

AESTHETICARE | It was a very successful show for AesthetiCare. The company was launching its latest innovation – the Genuine Dermaroller™ e-Dermastamp™ and hosted a packed workshop demonstrating the efficacy and precision of the advanced electronic micro-needling system (see this month’s Product Focus p40). The product was so well received that the company sold out at the show and now has a waiting list. The company was also showcasing its other core brands and technologies, including Heliocare and Genuine Dermaroller as well as the EndyMed 3DEEP radio-frequency skin tightening and fractional resurfacing system and Prescribed Solutions™ Customized Skincare.

Hair Clinic and its franchising and training schemes. With over 16,000 happy clients, Ailesbury Hair Clinic’s reputation is second to none. All surgeons are members of the International Society of Hair Restoration (IHRSH), a non-profit organisation for hair restoration doctors throughout the world.

AESTHETIC SOURCE | Another company who

ALLERGAN | The Cosmetic News Expo saw

was swamped throughout the two day event was Aesthetic Source. The UK distributor of NeoStrata® has been propelling the trusted brand to new levels since it took over the distribution last year.

the UK launch of Allergan’s latest dermal filler: JUVÉDERM® VOLBELLA® with Lidocaine, a new treatment for the lips and peri-oral area. What makes it different from other lip products on the market is its composition and viscosity making it ideal for lip shaping and taking natural looking lip enhancement to the next level. Developed using Allergan’s proprietary VYCROSS™ technology, JUVÉDERM®

AILESBURY HAIR CLINIC | Although founder Dr Patrick Treacy was lecturing abroad in Mexico, his team was there to promote the Ailesbury


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VOLBELLA® with Lidocaine is also the only hyaluronic acid dermal filler proven to last up to 12 months in the lips with a single treatment.

AMBICARE HEALTH | Fresh from its win at the Aesthetic Awards for Best Product Innovation, Ambicare Health was showcasing its Lustre pure light treatment for acne. This clinic dispensed, home-use device uses blue light technology and can be worn by the patient without disrupting day-to-day life. Gary Conroy said, “We managed to take quite a number of new orders from new customers. It is a good return on investment and I would highly recommend it both from an educational point of view and from a business point of view for future exhibitors.”

AQTIS MEDICAL™ | AQTIS Medical™ was showcasing its full Ellansé™ product range including the latest launch, Ellansé™ Hands, a polycaprolactone-based biostimulatory filler designed specifically for injection into the hands. The company also hosted a workshop demonstrating advanced techniques for rejuvenation in facial aesthetics using the Ellansé™ range which combines the benefits of both immediate correction of wrinkles and folds as well as stimulating the generation of the body’s own collagen. One of the key advantages of Ellansé™ is its longevity which is proven for 12 months.

AZTEC SERVICES | Visitors wanting to purchase any of AZTEC Services’s state of the art technologies including VIORA and LUTRONIC could take advantage of some fantastic show offers. Systems include the Viora ‘Pristine’ diamondtip microdermabrasion and Viora ‘Infusion’ needle-free mesotherapy system as well as the Viora ‘Reaction’, multi-frequency RF, bi-polar device for skin tightening and body contouring and the new Lutronic INFINI microneedle and fractional RF. Anthony Zacharek said, “The effects are a bit like CO2 but you get really minimal downtime. It is a more medical led treatment and you can get great results on severe acne scarring.” BOSTON MEDICAL GROUP LTD | The Boston Medical Group invited visitors to the workshop area to learn about its Revanesse® range, including mesotherapy for face, body and hair and HA dermal fillers. Revanesse® employs Thixofix™ Technology – one of the most advanced methods of cross-linking available – thereby ensuring long lasting results. This patented process also ensures that the products remain easy to inject while not sacrificing viscosity.

BTL AESTHETICS | Since it was established in 1993, BTL has become one of the major world manufacturers of medical devices. The company has just announced that Dr Rita Rakus will now be the official UK trainer for the EXILIS - PROTEGE system. Lee Boulderstone said, “With many years experience in using non-invasive body shaping and skin tightening devices Dr Rakus’s knowledge and skills will be perfect for all new users to learn and perfect the techniques required to gain the best results”.

CAMBRIDGE AESTHETICS | As the UK based manufacturer of dermal filler, Uma Jeunesse, Cambridge Aesthetics hosted a workshop with Mr Peeyush P Sharma, to demonstrate the benefits of this home-grown brand. Uma Jeunesse is a new generation cross-linked hyaluronic acid based dermal filler implant, which has been manufactured using


advanced technology. Mr Sharma, who is a consultant plastic surgeon and medical director of Cambridge Medical Aesthetics Ltd, drew in the crowds as he gave a live demo on the use of Uma Jeunesse in various facial indications.

CARLETON MEDICAL | Carleton Medical Ltd’s products THE ALLERGAN on show at the Expo included the industry’s fastest hair removal laser, the Asclepion MedioStar NeXT, as well as its specialist systems for tattoo removal, ablation, pigmented lesions, and laser lipolysis. The company also has a new vascular laser due to be launched later this year - watch this space!


CARLTON BEAUTY & SPA GROUP | Carlton Beauty & Spa Ltd was showcasing its wide range of products including one of the most recent additions to the Carlton Professional range, the ThermaVisage RF8. The system includes radiofrequency, vacuum and Colour Therapy.

CHROMOGENEX | Two new products were on display at the Chromogenex stand – the Fusion SLR and the i-Lipo. With three steps for facial treatment, the Fusion SLR uses microdermabrasion to prepare the skin, low frequency sound to infuse a hyaluronic serum and finally the application of laser and infrared technology. The i-Lipo, meanwhile, is based on accelerating, rather than destroying, fat cells to reduce fat content. CHURCH PHARMACY | Church Pharmacy was offering visitors to its stand a chance to win an iPad. Galderma’s Frank Ward pulled ticket number 85 out of the bowl and the winner was Maxine Hassan. The company said of the Expo, “It has been absolutely fabulous. We have met lots of new people and lots of potential new accounts. It has been really good to raise our profile.”

CLARISONIC | Visitors to the Clarisonic stand could view its range of oscillating cleansing brushes which use sonic technology to remove up to six times more make-up than manual cleansing. They could also see the Clarisonic Opal, a palm-sized sonic infusion device for around the eyes, designed to enhance the application and absorption of skincare products.

CLINOGEN | Clinogen was promoting its signature brand: Oxypeel, the first technique using oxygen for treating various skin disorders. Sujata Jolly, medical director at Clinogen Laboratories, led a workshop where she talked about why she advocates the “Treat, Heal and Reeducate™”philosophy, and how a rounded approach to treat various skin conditions will produce superior long term results.

CONSULTING ROOM™ | The Consulting Room™ was on hand to give business advice to visitors to its stand as well as to promote its next Smart Ideas seminar which will take place on Saturday April 27 at the Radisson Blu Hotel in London. Entitled ‘Practical Business Strategies and Product Ideas to Increase Your Profits in 2013’ the event is supported by Syneron Candela, Merz Aesthetics and the BACN.


COSMEDICO MEDICAL TECHNOLOGIES | Cosmedico had a new system on display at the show: the SkinPULSE 900 3HS. The multi-application system has combined IPL and RF for enhanced pain free hair removal and cosmetic skin treatments as well as pure RF for fat and cellulite reduction, skin tightening and body contouring.

CYNOSURE | Cynosure had a new system on show at the Expo – the RevLite. The EO Q-Switched Nd:YAG laser features PhotoAcoustic Technology Pulse™ to provide maximum power and versatility for a broad range of indications on all skin types. Applications include epidermal and dermal pigmented lesions; tattoo removal; non-ablative skin rejuvenation; wrinkle reduction; acne scar reduction; vascular lesion removal and hair removal including fine vellus hair. Neil Wolfenden said, “We have had a very good show. We have seen a good mix of existing customers and very interesting new customers.” DERMAGENICA | Dermagenica generated interest on its stand as it showcased its biomimetic nanopeptide based product range, Dermaheal, for hair restoration, skin rejuvenation, lipolysis. The company also displayed its Revofil dermal fillers with nanopeptides and the new NANO AQUA+ range which incorporates NANTES NANOwater, which is characterised by its ability to penetrate the skin, ensuring nourishment and hydration of the deeper layers.

DERMALUX™ | The Cosmetic News Expo saw the UK launch of the Dermalux™ Tri-Wave LED Phototherapy system. Utilising clinically proven Light Emitting Diode technology the Dermalux™ Tri-Wave will, like its predecessor deliver excellent outcomes

A New Dimension in Non-Surgical Technology

A revolution in the non-surgical aesthetic skincare market... is set to create a revolution in the nonsurgical Aesthetic skincare market. Following the success of the award winning 3D-lipo which combines technologies for the effective treatment of fat, cellulite and skin-tightening we are set to launch a phenomenal new multi-functional device for the face. Here are just some of the reasons why 3D-skintech will become the brand of choice in 2013 • Complete treatment portfolio for anti-ageing, pigmentation and acne • 4 technologies ensure a prescriptive & total approach to your clients needs • Used in conjunction with medical peel and cosmeceutical skin care line • Unsurpassed results ensures maximum client loyalty • Highly profitable with a multitude of services to offer • Provides you with a competitive edge in your area • Affordable as package price is under £10,000 with a product starter pack worth £1,000 • Available on 3 Years interest FREE finance for the first 50 machines sold

Rotational Diamond Peel Microdermabrasion Utilising the latest technology available you can work in conjunction with topical skincare to ensure that hydration and comfort are not compromised whilst delivering excellent peeling results.

Radio Frequency Tri-polar Radio Frequency is the most advanced technology available for skin-tightening ensuring excellent results without the discomfort associated with mono or bi – polar devices.

Mesotherapy Non-invasive mesotherapy ensures that the active ingredients are delivered where they are needed most without the need for needles.

LED Full canopy LED ensures both rapid treatment time and excellent results are achieved. Available wavelengths Red (640nm - 700nm), Blue (425nm - 470nm), Yellow (590nm) and Green (520 - 564nm) ensures effective treatment for anti-ageing, pigmentation, acne and detoxification.

3D-skintech peels and clinical skincare A compact range of medical grade peels and cosmeceutical skincare products complete the Skintech’s unique offering and enables you to both use as a “stand-alone” service or combine with equipment protocols.


For more information or a demonstration please call 01788 550 440

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confidence issues due to hair loss, thinning hair and certain types of alopecia.



Fraser team was running a competition to guess the average claim value for popular cosmetic procedures. The values were taken from its claims department on claims paid between 2007 and 2011. All values included defence costs and compensation. Most people who guessed greatly underestimated the costs which included an average claim of £2054.51 for botulinum toxin, £11,900 for dermal fillers, £36,111 for body contouring and £8781.22 for laser hair removal.

will, like its predecessor deliver excellent outcomes for a wide range of common skin concerns including ageing, acne and pigmentation. It also provides a significant development in the treatment of specialist and problematic conditions such as rosacea, scarring and inflammatory disorders such as eczema and psoriasis.

HARLEY STREET BEAUTY | Harley Street Beauty’s Mike Mazza drew in the crowds when he gave his workshop exploring how to build your brand including aspects of marketing, PR, online media and market challenges from brands. The company was also promoting the benefits of becoming part of its growing franchise to visitors to the event.

E-CLINIC | For their clinic management software

HEALTHXCHANGE | Healthxchange Pharmacy was displaying its marketing leading brands including INTRAcel and Obagi as well as a new addition to its portfolio: Coolsense™. Coolsense™ is the latest way to eliminate the pain from injections. The small hand-held device offers a pain free and safe anaesthesia. It is kept in the freezer and simply applied to the skin for four seconds. The localised site is then numbed for up to 10 minutes allowing for pain-free injections.

needs visitors to the Expo needed to look no further than the e-clinic stand. The company offers a wide range of technologies for appointment booking, record keeping, billing and reporting which can also now be accessed via iPad and iPhone devices.

ENERGIST MEDICAL GROUP | Among the systems on display on the Energist stand were the Portrait® NeoGen™ Nitrogen Plasma Technology for skin regeneration. Energist is the only company to use plasma energy for this application with the Portrait system, representing a dramatic leap forward in the science of skin regeneration. Clinical trials have proven that Portrait stimulates a natural regenerative process of the skin; recovery time is minimal and there is little or no risk of complications.

IHAS | IHAS director Sally Taber was on hand to talk to visitors about www.treatmentsyoucantrust. and why the scheme is even more important now with the findings of the Keogh review due to be published. TYCT was established to provide a Quality Mark for the industry and to ensure safe practice in cosmetic injectables.

FACE LTD | Face Ltd was promoting the dates for this year’s FACE conference, which will take place on June 21-23 at the new venue of the QEII Conference Centre, London. As always the Aesthetic Industry Summer Ball will also take place during the same weekend and will this year be held at The Brewery in the heart of the City.

INJECT MEDIA | A new exhibitor to the

 A new exhibitor to

INSTANTEL BEAUTY ANTI AGEING PRODUCTS | Instantel Beauty was displaying

the Cosmetic News Expo, HairMaker was busy demonstrating its revolutionary hair fibre product on the stand across the two days. Made from 85% cotton, HairMaker is ideal for people who have self-


show Inject Media offers a wide variety of creative marketing strategies including web design, web development, branding, e-marketing, app development, mobile strategies, social media implementation, film production, brochure design, exhibition stand design and literature among others.

its range of anti-ageing products including: Faciallift, which provides an instant, non-surgical face lift in minutes and Eyevittal, an under eye enhancer with instant results.

INJEX SHIREEN UK |Injex generated a lot of interest as it introduced its SHIREEN natural, needle-free, hyaluronic acid based, skin treatment. Offering immediate results in the treatment of lines and wrinkles, the live demonstrations on the stand spoke for themselves.

INTRACEUTICALS UK | The girls on the INTRACEUTICALS stand did not stop when it came to doing demos of their popular


treatment. A favourite with A list celebrities all over the world, visitors were lining up to try it out for themselves. Sonia Norman said, “The show has been fantastic. We were really busy last year but we were even busier this year. With doing the live demos it has created so much buzz. Because our results are instant and dramatic people are just loving it. We are really pleased.”

JOURNAL OF AESTHETIC NURSING | Visitors were able to pick up a copy of The Journal of Aesthetic Nursing (JAN), the only peer-reviewed clinical and professional journal for aesthetic nurses. Published 10 times a year, JAN includes high-quality articles, clinical overviews and case studies, with a strong focus on non-surgical cosmetic medicine.

LASER SUPPORT SERVICES | Laser Support Services has been meeting the needs of laser users worldwide since 1990 so it is no surpirse that the company’s stand was a popular stopping point for visitors. The company has a wide range of laser equipment ranging from UV, through visible, and out to infrared, CW and pulsed as well as optical tables, mounts and positioners, safety equipment, optics and much more.

LIFESTYLE AESTHETICS | Lifestyle Aesthetics (LA) was founded in 2005 by healthcare professionals with many years experience in the medical aesthetic sector. They are the distributors for the Teosyal range of dermal fillers as well as LA Peel, LA Science and Teosyal Cosmeceuticals.

LYNTON | Lynton is not only known for its high quality UK manufacturered laser and intense pulsed light (IPL) systems but now also for its expert training courses, delivered in conjunction with the University of Manchester. Visitors to the show were able to get a free taster by sitting in on a Tattoo Removal workshop. The workshop focused on how to remove tattoos using the latest technology, with specific focus on the correct wavelengths to be used.

LUMINARY | New to the UK market and being showcased for the first time at the Cosmetic News Expo was the Antera 3D™ Skin Analysis Camera. Dr Ros Debenham gave a workshop on how the system has transformed her practice and its unique benefits over other skin imaging systems (see page 46). MEDICAL AESTHETIC GROUP | The Medical Aesthetic Group had a few new things to shout about at the Expo including Stylage® with Lidocaine and MD Lash Factor, a physician formulated eyelash conditioner with unique patented technology that improves the appearance of natural lash length, thickness and fullness. Managing director David Gower said, “We took many thousands of pounds of orders and found little time to leave the booth throughout.”

MESOESTETIC (WELLNESS TRADING) | Mesoestetic develops the highest quality products whose production and quality control are governed by extremely strict security protocols. Adam Birtwistle, managing director of Mesoestetic UK said, “As always, Cosmetic News Expo is the busiest show that we do, there is always a great atmosphere and good organisational assistance. We can highly recommend the attendance of this event in the future. We are already looking forward to Cosmetic News Expo 2014.”

Belotero® now approved by the FDA • One of only 3 HA approved by the FDA currently promoted in the US • Optimal integration1 for superior evenness2 • Minimal local for sustained patient satisfaction4

voted as The Best by our customers in 2011 and 2012

Call Merz Aesthetics Customer Services now to find out more or place your orders: Tel: +44(0) 333 200 4140 Fax: +44(0) 208 236 3526 Email: 1 Histological examination of human skin (eyelid dermis layer). Courtesy Dr. J. Reinmüller, Wiesbaden, Germany 2 Prager W, Steinkraus V. A prospective, rater-blind, randomized comparison of the effectiveness and tolerability of Belotero Basic versus Restylane for correction of nasolabial folds. Eur J Dermatol 2010;20 (6):748-52. 3 Taufig A, et al. A new strategy to detect intradermal reactions after injection of resorbable dermal fillers. J Ästhetische Chirurgie 2009; 2: 29-36 4 Reinmüller J et al. Poster presented at the 21 World Congress of Dermatology, Buenos Aires, Argentina, Sept 30 – Oct 5, 2007. Thereafter published as a supplement to Dermatology News: Kammerer S. Dermatology News 2007; 11: 2-3. Merz Pharma Uk Ltd 260 Centennial Park, Elstree Hill South Elstree, Hertfordshire, WD6 3SR Tel: +44(0) 333 200 4140


Gold Standard Customer Services


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PSR INSURANCE | PSR Insurance Brokers Limited apply strict principles of transparency, trust and endeavour to simply provide a superb service which protects the individual and corporate clients equally. The team was running a competition on its stand and Cosmetic News editor Vicky Eldridge was invited to pick the winner. PJS DIRECT LTD | Those looking for great deals on salon and clinic equipment visited the PJS Direct stand. From treatment couches to microdermabrasion machines, the company has a full range of professional quality equipment at affordable prices.

Q MED, A GALDERMA DIVISION | As one of the leaders in its field Q-Med, a Galderma division, once again had a strong presence at the Cosmetic News Expo. The division offers a complete worldwide portfolio in the aesthetic field including the brands Restylane, Emervel and Azzalure. Product manager Jen Pain said, “The Expo was a good meeting for Q-Med, a Galderma Division, with plenty of opportunities to meet with lots of customers, old and new. Our Skinboosters workshop was a great success, with a high level of practitioner attendance and generated new opportunities for us. We look forward to the 2014 Expo!” REJUVENATED | Rejuvenated launched Collagen Shots, the exciting new anti-ageing drink, at last year’s Expo, and was once again inviting passers by to try a sample on its stand. The company was thrilled with the response it received from visitors. “Last year’s Cosmetic News Expo was excellent but this year surpassed it, the quality of delegates was exceptional,” said director Kathryn Danzey. “We were delighted with the interest and business generated and the Cosmetic News team made it a delight to exhibit.” ROSMETICS | Last year it was a giant glittery sculpture of a big cat, this year a huge inflatable vampire that made Rosmetics stand out from the crowd. The vampire was of course there to represent the so-called ‘vampire face-lift’ or PRP. Rosmetics are the distributors of the Selphyl® System, an enabling technology for physicians to prepare platelet rich fibrin matrix (PRFM) in a reliable and reproducible manner. The company also distributes the Anteis Injection System as well as the Magic Needle blunt cannulae, Anteis dermal fillers, rehydration products, skincare, unique pain relief systems, lip enhancers and eye lash enhancers.

SASAKI BODYCARE | Sasaki Bodycare were not short of people to try out the equipment on their highly interactive stand. Many a visitor could be seen wobbling away on its FLABéLOS vibration plates, the first and only vibration machine registered as a Class 2A Medical Device CE.

SCHUCO | PRP is one of the most talked about treatments of the moment and following a Regen PRP workshop by Dr Terry Loong on tear trough rejuvenation using PRP and cannula, the Schuco stand recieved a lot of interested visitors keen to find out more about the system. They said, “Terry’s workshop yesterday was fantastic, we were inundated - we had to call in reinforcements!”

SIGMACON | Among the products on display on the Sigmacon stand were the Dermaceutic Peels range including the innovative melasma/ pigmentation Spot Peel and the Ellman RF Skin Tightening System, Pelleve. SILDERM | SilDerm was displaying its range of uniqely positioned products including the SilkPeel Dermalinfusion solution. With a diamond tip head designed to gently abrade the skin, the system brings a whole new approach to traditional dermabrasion, with custom solutions for the treatment of different problems.


SKINMED LTD | SkinMed was created to assist in the research development, sale and distribution of dermatological products which are beneficial to skin health. The company draws from the expertise from both the pharmaceutical and the cosmetics world where many decades of experience allow us to bring you options which work. We fundamentally seek products supported by clinical and medical evidence carried out by recognised experts in their field.

SURGICAL ACUITY | Surgical Acuity were exhibiting Orascoptic, a tool to assist clinicians in delivering better procedural outcomes through superior visualisation. They do this by providing magnification with the best resolution, across the widest and through the deepest field of view. THERMAVEIN | ThermaVein were doing treatment demonstrations on their stand which attracted a lot of onlookers. ThermaVein technology has existed within the medical industry for almost 15 years and has now been launched in the aesthetic market. The treatment offers the instant, safe and permanent removal of facial veins, medically referred to as telangiectasia. The company strongly believes that their exclusive technology is the safest and most effective available.


SILHOUETTE LIFT | Silhouette Soft™ is a new minimally invasive suture treatment based on proven Silhouette Lift absorbable cone sutures technology. Soft is designed to be minimally invasive with no incisions being required and to be fully absorbable while providing lift and counteracting the effects of volume loss. After Silhouette Soft™ treatment the cheeks will show more volume and appear slightly elevated
and the face will have an improved definition.

SKINBRANDS | SkinBrands was doing demonstrations of the HydraFacial on its stand as well as showcasing its market leading portfolio including: SkinCeuticals, SkinMedica, Medik8, Susan Posnick and RevitaLash. New launches included RevitaLash FineLine Primer (see page 44); SkinCeuticals Redness Neutralizer (see page 38) and Medik8’s CE-Thione™, Rechargeable Vitamin C™ (see page 42).

has been at the forefront of medical aesthetics for over 30 years and is a market leader in product distribution. From its comprehensive ranges of botulinum toxins and dermal fillers to chemical peels and skincare the company has also become known for its training, development and product awareness, attracting many conscientious visitors to its stand.

YORK MEDICAL TECHNOLOGIES | Founded in 2004, York Medical Technologies Ltd (YMT) has grown to become an established supplier of quality surgical instruments and consumables to both the NHS and the private sector. New is YMT’s entry into Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy with an easy-to-use, highly effective, patented system for producing cost effective, very high quality PRP.

SKIN-GEEKS LTD | The Skin Geeks



Ltd team was on hand to talk about their two cosmeceutical ranges: Image Skin Care and AQ Skin Solutions. The company was also debuting its new Digital Skin Imaging Device and promoting its 2013 training and events calendar including its Global New Product Launch Party on March 11 and 13.



Cosmetic News writer and Twitter queen Antonia Mariconda, aka The Cosmedic Coach, was busy tweeting the latest news from the Expo to her thousands of followers. Here she writes about her day at The Cosmetic News Expo 2013...


Thanks to a ‘not-so-well-timed’ bout of tonsillitis I sadly missed out on all the “oooh la la” at IMCAS in Paris this year. However the very well timed Cosmetic News Expo as the first UK event of the 2013 calendar meant that I was swiftly able to catch up on all the latest developments in the aesthetics arena. In its fourth year and growing annually, the Cosmetic News Expo is a great platform for manufacturers and distributors to showcase their products, brands and developments as well as cultivate new leads and engage with existing and new customers. For someone like me Expo is a fantastic opportunity to report back to the general public exactly what is ‘hot and happening’ through various editorial projects, but namely on social media where followers like to pinpoint information on what really ‘cuts it’ in the world of aesthetics. I tweeted my Saturday visit to Cosmetic News Expo throughout the whole day, consumers on Twitter love to engage with ‘live feed’ and often use the opportunity to ask a wide variety of questions about a particular product, brand, or expert that I am tweeting about. After a quick catch up with the fabulous editorial team at Cosmetic News, I kicked off my tour of the exhibition hall with an amusing mini test of ‘FLABeLOS’, vibration plates, whilst PYS’s ‘Gangnam Style’ played cheerily in the background.








The frantic shaking of my body parts caused by the pulsating machine triggered a few chortling laughs by the ‘oh so innocent’ bystanders who just casually stopped by to take a peek at all the commotion (mainly caused by my own embarrassed shrieks and giggles). The FLABeLOS guys have to get my special Expo ‘thumbs up’ for their creativity in engaging visitors to their stand.


I had lots of follow up responses and enquires as a result of my Expo tweets, interest seemed to gravitate around: Accent Ultra, Vivacy Laboratories Stylage®, MD Lash enhancing serum, Medik8 the British skincare company, Aestheticare Genuine Dermaroller, Alma Lasers Soprano Ice, Juvéderm Volbella, Hairmaker UK,Cynosure Cellulaze and Kelo-cote Advanced Formula Scar Gel from Sinclair Pharmaceuticals. It’s always interesting to see what catches the interest of the public, that’s why twitter feed is essential in engaging your potential clients and patients. Re-branded as the Aesthetics Conference, the educational programme at the Cosmetic News Expo is an excellent opportunity to see the very best UK and international speakers, discussing the latest topics and demonstrating the most up-to-date techniques, at the fraction of the cost of other industry events. My personal favourite of the day was ‘A topical approach to wrinkles’ by Dr Barbara Kubicka, with patients and consumers now more than ever seeking advice for an array of differing conditions, I found the information offered by Dr. Kubicka really useful when considering options for successful skin care. Credit to the organisers for it was a fantastic event indeed with a great vibrant atmosphere, some very welcome new faces as well as the great established favourites, I look forward to next years anniversary 5th Expo, It’s going be a good one! that’s for sure.


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Rebranded as The Aesthetics Conference, the educational programme at the Cosmetic News Expo was stronger than ever for 2013. Here’s a taster of what went on...

A sign of any successful conference is when you look around the room and it is full to capacity with delegates who are completely engaged by the speakers on stage, and that is what was achieved at this year’s Aesthetics Conference. With some of the biggest names in the industry making up the speaker line-up for 2013 and with more delegates than ever before, the Aesthetics Conference aimed to inspire, educate and enthuse participants in every aspect of aesthetic practice. One of the things that has always set the Cosmetic News Expo apart from any other event in the UK aesthetics industry is its value for money CPD accredited educational programme. Delegates were able to sit in on an extensive two-day scientific programme in the main auditorium as well as watch live demonstrations and gain knowledge about the products being showcased on the exhibition floor as part of the exhibitor workshops. This year the conference was organised by Mandy Cameron, managing director of Aesthetics UK Consultancy, who has worked in the aesthetics industry since its inception and who, as a former nurse, has a strong understanding of what makes a good scientific programme. She said, “It is very rewarding to see that the care and attention devoted to the compilation of a scientific programme paid off, with all the great feedback being received.” Saturday’s conference kicked off with a session on injectables chaired by plastic surgeon Mr Dalvi Humzah . Dr Kate Goldie was the first to take to the podium giving a lecture on Managing the Versatility of Dermal Fillers. Dynamic duo Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel then gave an engaging masterclass on New Trends in Fillers Including Facial Volumising and Lip Shaping, delving into anatomy, techniques and risk management, as well as giving a live demonstration. Dr Acquilla said, “It was an absolute pleasure to be part of this year’s programme, it was by far the best UK congress we’ve seen. A huge thanks and credit to the Cosmetic News team for a superb event. I am already looking forward to Expo 2014!” Dr Patel added, “The number of delegates that were in the hall far exceeded a number of similar

meetings I have spoken at which makes all the effort that you put in more worthwhile when you are speaking to so many interested delegates.” After the morning coffee break Dr Patrick Trevidic talked about one of the most controversial treatment indications for fillers: the tear trough examining injection techniques and how to manage complications as well as giving a live demonstration. The afternoon session, chaired by Dr Tracy Mountford focussed on the skin and started with Dr Stefanie Williams and Mr Chris Inglefield speaking about the ‘Treatment and Maintenance of Redness and Inflammation’. Dr Barbara Kubicka then gave an informative presentation on A Topical Approach To Wrinkles, unraveling some of the confusion behind cosmeceutical ingredients. Saturday’s meeting closed with the partnership of 2011’s Speaker of the Year Tracy Mountford and leading menopause expert Dr Nick Panay. Their session of the Impact of the Menopause on Ageing Skin lifted the lid on the changes the skin undergoes due to the hormonal imbalance and showed how the collaboration of gynaecologist and skin specialist is an exciting partnership to improve care for this group of women. Aesthetic devices were the main topic of Sunday’s morning programme chaired by Mr Chris Inglefield. Leading Brazilian doctor Ariel Haus opened the second day of the meeting with a lecture on the benefits of multiapplication lasers and how they can benefit your bottom line while offering your patients the best results with the least downtime. Aesthetic Practitioner of the Year Robin Stones was next to step up on stage to speak about New Innovations and Advancements in Platform Technology. He looked at the latest combination of light and laser based technologies that provide total anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation solutions for all skin types. Dr Tapan Patel then spoke about Using Fractional CO2 to Repair Damage in Skin. He touched on how CO2 Lasers have come a long way over the last 10 years and why fractional CO2 laser therapy is being hailed as ‘the anti-ageing breakthrough of the decade’. Advanced Body Shaping and Skin Tightening: Obtaining the Best Results Using RadioFrequency and Ultrasound Technology was the subject of the next talk given by top surgeon Mr Jan Stanek who presented the findings of his clinical practice.

“The Cosmetic News Expo and The Aesthetics Conference 2013 was an informative and well organised conference. The lectures and live demonstrations were fantastic. As always, I come away with new ideas and renewed enthusiasm!” Dr Eithne Brenner 24

The conference ended with a session on mesotherapy chaired by Dr Tapan Patel. The first speaker was Dr Galcerán Montal, an expert in the field, who gave a presentation on Medical

Devices for Intradermal Injections and the Use of Mesotherapy Techniques for Rejuvenation. He focused on the treatment of the hands and neck as well as other problem areas that have previously been very difficult to treat. The final speaker of the day was Dr Gabriela Mercik who spoke about the latest breakthrough in mesotherapy: Biomimetic Nano-Peptides: She shared with delegates how this latest cutting-edge technology can enable quick, non-invasive solutions for many different indications including skin brightening, hair restoration, rejuvenation, and lipolysis. Delegate Dr Linda Eve said, “This is my third year at the Cosmetic News Expo and it was absolutely fantastic this year. The quality of the lectures was amazing I have been to many conferences where the presentations are just too rushed but here you are given enough time. The lectures have been full and informative with good demonstrations as well. It reinforces good practice and encourages you to think slightly outside of the box and maybe introduce a new concept or a new treatment into your clinic.” Mr Mayank Gupta said, “I thoroughly enjoyed two days of conference. It was an excellent and very informative agenda put together. Congratulations to whole team. Well done!”

Exilis best in class... Reduce...Shape...Tighten


To book a demonstration 16th & 17th February contact us on Stand 60, Business Design Centre, London 01782 349 679 Professional Beauty/Aesthetic Medicine 24th & February Cosmetic News Expo

Stand Y18, Excel, London

”With excellent results, I have now included Exilis in my practice as an alternative to those who do not wish to undergo surgery for contouring and skin tightening.‘‘ Dr Jan Stanek, London, UK ”We have chosen to include Exilis to our portfolio of treatments and have been very impressed with the initial results on our patients.‘‘ Dr Rita Rakus, London, UK ”Introducing Exilis was an easy choice to make with its extremely fast pain free treatments that reduce fat, sculpt the body, treat cellulite and tighten skin. I can see the Exilis becoming the system on choice across the UK‘‘ Dr Tapan Patel, London, UK ”Exilis is unrivalled in its ability to treat both Body and Face, with a combination of technologies including Radio Frequency and Ultrasound.‘‘ Dr Clara Russell, Edinburgh, UK

BTL Industries Ltd, Unit 83, Greenway Business Centre Harlow Business Park Harlow, Essex CM19 5QE Tel: +44 1279 408 170 Fax: +44 1279 408 171 Phone: +44 7508 621607

cosmetic news the uk’s largest trade aesthetics exhibition and conference

ex po

exhibition and conference

1 6 th a n d 1 7 th f e b r u a r y

E X P O R E V I E W / A F T E R S H O W PA R T Y

GOING TO THE CHAPEL The bubbly was flowing as exhibitors, delegates and VIPs joined the Cosmetic News team to toast the success of a highly successful first day at the Cosmetic News Expo and Aesthetics Conference. The Chapel Bar in Islington played host to the after show party, which is always a highlight of the two-day event. Guests were greeted with a complementary ‘Expo-losion’ cocktail, bubbly and canapés while networking and letting their hair down after a busy first day. The party was sponsored by Hospitality Sponsors, ObvieLine.

Q-Med’s Jemma Cooke, Charlotte Body and Emma Miller (Q-Med)

Guy Goudsmit of ABC Lasers and guests

Louise Taylor from Dermalux and Cynosure’s Neil Wolfenden

26 Martyn Roe and Karen Sargeant

Heather Morton (Ambicare) with Rikz Parekh and Derek Howie

Nikki Eales (Cosmedic Skin Clinic) and Kevin Eley (Aqtris Medicla)

The Cosmetic News team Elliemae Hammond, Carly McFarlane and Peter Johnson

Vicky Eldridge, Charlotte Body, Corrine Winkworth and Tanya Barham

BTL’s Lee Boulderstone Karen Thorniley

Farrukh Seelm and Claire Williams from Sinclair with Andrew Morris and his wife

The Consulting Room’s Danny Large

Barbara from Academy of Advanced Beauty and her husband with Vicky Eldridge (centre)

Edward Bowler, Dr Sam Robson and Pauline Bowler

Dr Patrick Bowler and Ron Myers

Cliodhna Hegarty, Anne Hegarty and Jackie Taylor

Dr Beatriz Molina and her husband

The Wigmore Medical team and Luisa Scott (BACN London)

Mandy Cameron (right) and delegates

Face Ltd’s Simon Haroutunian with Consulting Room’s Dan Huxley

Mark Hawthorne and John Fisher from Thermavein

Georgina Farquhar and Elizabeth Hughes from Aestheticare


THE OLDEST TRICK IN THE BOOK Dr Xavier Goodarzian on skin resurfacing with chemical peels

My passion with skincare and cosmetics started when, as a teenager in the late eighties, I started using various skincare products. In 2002 I got involved in cosmetic medicine and it renewed my passion for different skincare products. It wasn’t long before I started browsing back through a cosmetic dermatology atlas that I had bought in 1995 as a third year medical student that examined various chemical peels. This fascination made me want to know more and allowed me to develop a special interest in chemical peels and skincare. I have been very lucky (and at times, obsessively determined) to train with the big names in this field namely; Dr Zein Obagi, Dr Jean Luc Vigneron and Dr Philippe Deprez. Chemical peels are one of the best and oldest methods of resurfacing the skin to reveal fresher, healthier, tighter and stronger skin. However, unfortunately there are many misconceptions about peels and they are very often used incorrectly. This is influenced by a number of factors such as; lack of or incomplete knowledge by the practitioner, a fear of scaremongering media images of ‘burnt faces in bandages’, unrealistic expectations from patients and often a feeling by some in our industry that more expensive machine-based treatments give superior results, which in my view is not always the case.

Dr Xavier Goodarzian MD (Hons), PG Dip Clin Derm (Lond), PG Cert (Cos Med), MRCGP, MBACD Over the last eight years, Dr Xavier Goodarzian (‘Dr Xavier’) has become a recognised name in the medical aesthetics industry, not only for his artistic approach to aesthetics but also as a respected lecturer and trainer. He also sits on the Board of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM), an unpaid position, but one he takes very seriously given all the changes and uncertainties in the industry at the moment. Dr Xavier runs the awardwinning ‘Dr Xavier G. Medi-Spa Clinic’ in Southampton city centre and he is also a director and lead trainer for Innomed Training Academy, a company dedicated to independent skills-based medical aesthetic training for doctors, medical nurses and dentists. Innomed Training is also the appointed training provider for Med-fx, the UK’s largest aesthetic supplier to clinics.

Any cosmetic procedure has down time and requires commitment from both the practitioner and the patient to stick to a protocol without which results may become questionable and side-effects may be more frequent. So before we even mention peels to patients we need to know about their lifestyle and assess whether they would be able to stick to a rigid routine of skin preparation and after care as well as being able to deal with the downtime associated with some peels. I am a strong believer that correct skin-preparation is needed before any type of peel and I won’t perform a peel if patients are not compliant because this will result in disappointment and side-effects. There are numerous ways of classifying or categorising peels but a simple way is to divide them into three types; namely superficial, medium and deep peels.


SUPERFICIAL PEELS: PEEL DEPTH: Mostly stratum corneum. Sometimes down to mid-epidermis but rarely as deep as the stratum basale. SKIN PREPARATION: This is needed to first reduce superficial skin oiliness and allow better and more homogenous acid penetration but also to thin out the stratum corneum which is the main barrier of the skin. It also allows the patient to get into a twice-daily skincare routine and understand the importance of sun protection. The most frequently used products for this, without mentioning any brands, are glycolic and or salicylic acid based cleansers, topical antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, glycolic and other AHAbased creams and sun protection. AGENTS: Most superficial peels are performed with an acid from the AHA family (glycolic acid, kojic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, etc) and very often mixtures of various AHAs are used. Salicylic acid, a BHA, is also sometimes used, either on its own or mixed with AHAs. All AHAs are hydrophilic and therefore penetrate the stratum corneum through the intercellular gaps. BHA is hydrophobic and therefore only penetrates through the hair follicle and reaches the sebaceous glands. Trichloracetic acid (TCA) can also be used for superficial peels usually not in stronger percentages than 15%. TCA will be explained more in detail in the medium peel section.

PROCEDURE: The process is not particularly complicated and usually doesn’t take more than 15 to 20 minutes to complete. It involves cleansing the skin, often with a pre-peel cleanser, applying the chosen acid followed by a neutraliser if needed. The end-point is erythema or a pseudo-frost in case of salicylic acid which is not to be confused with true frosting points with TCA. AFTER CARE: Moisturising and sun protection, nothing too complicated. DOWN TIME: Anything from virtually none up to five days of minimal to moderate shedding.

MEDIUM PEELS: PEEL DEPTH: Usually at least down to the papillary dermis and sometimes involving the immediate reticular dermis (IRD). Some peel classifications categorise peels as deep as mid-dermal in this medium category as well. However, usually these peels would be considered to be deep because they involve the reticular dermis. SKIN PREPARATION: Is absolutely crucial to both gain good results but also to ensure that sideeffects are minimised as much as possible. Good skin preparation will also ensure good skin-healing and also a dramatic reduction in the down time post-peel. Again the use of AHAs and BHAs are useful to reduce skin oiliness and to thin out the stratum corneum as much as possible. Antioxidants and sun protection should be used during daytime. I generally won’t perform a medium-depth peel on skin Fitzpatrick types five or six and won’t perform it on anyone who has not had at least one month of rigid skin preparation with the above-named ingredients combined with daily use of hydroquinone 4% and tretinoin 0.1% - for me this is a must. AGENTS: The main agent used to perform a medium-depth peel is TCA. Sometimes TCA is combined with AHAs and other agents to increase depth penetration, but I feel this generally causes too much variability in depth and may cause side-effects. The biggest misconception with TCA is that lower concentrations such as let’s say 12% to 15% can only cause superficial peeling and to perform a medium peel one needs to use concentrations of around 30% and above. Unlike AHAs and BHAs which are contact-time dependant, TCA is coatdependant. This means that even with the lower concentrations of TCA, a medium peel or even a deep peel can be achieved but with increased risk of side-effects. The more coats that are applied, the deeper the peel will get. The percentage of the TCA itself is only a measure of the speed of acid penetration and not the depth of the peel. TCA works by coagulating the skin proteins, which causes frosting. The first signs of frosting are frosting dots or points then frosting clouds, both signs of superficial peels. Once a uniform white frosting has been achieved on the skin the papillary dermis has usually been reached though this will vary from patient to patient depending on their skin type, skin thickness and the skin preparation. One can recognise a papillary dermis peel by the uniform white frosting with a pink background. This is because the superficial dermal blood vessels have not yet been coagulated and show through the skin. At this stage, the skin will also show “epidermal sliding” which means that the

SIDE EFFEC TS: Usually none, but occasional patches of persistent erythema and rarely hyperpigmentation. RESULTS: The main message is to assess your patient’s skin and expectations before you advise them to have a superficial peel. One can expect an improvement in general skin condition, increased skin-hydration, a reduction in sun damage and superficial pigmentation and possibly a reduction of very fine lines. These peels can also improve active acne. Usually a course of four to six peels is necessary. These peels do not really improve moderate to deep lines or acne scarring and will not really improve skin laxity to a great deal.

epidermis has detached itself from the papillary dermis. As soon as the IRD has been reached the frost will become uniform white and both the pink background and the epidermal sliding will disappear. This is due to further acid penetration and coagulation of the superficial dermal blood vessels and coagulation of the IRD. TCA will usually cause side-effects if performed at any deeper level than this. PROCEDURE: Involves cleansing the skin followed by disinfecting with alcohol and degreasing with acetone. The TCA is applied in layers and one has to wait between each coat to observe the achieved frosting. An electric fan is necessary to cool the skin for patient comfort because this peel is usually moderately painful. Analgesia and or local anaesthetic infiltration can help to reduce the pain if needed. TCA is usually selfneutralising, so once the required depth has been achieved a post-peel cream is usually applied and left in place for 12 hours. The procedure itself takes between 30 to 60 minutes. AFTER CARE: Moisturising and sun protection. The patient shouldn’t wash their hair for at least three days post peel. DOWN TIME: Anything from six to 14 days of moderate to severe shedding of large skin scales and scabs and facial-swelling involving the eyelids and the lips, sometimes up to four days. SIDE-EFFEC TS: Mainly a risk of hyperpigmentation, sometimes persistent erythema, hypersensitivity, acne flare-ups and rarely, scarring. RESULTS: Dramatic improvement in skin condition, skin hydration and sun damage with a reduction of pigmentation. Noticeable improvement in skin texture and skin laxity, including the eyelids. Reduction of acne scarring. Moderate lines may still not improve with this peel and deep wrinkles will not be affected. It generally may take up to four to six months to see the final result.

“Any cosmetic procedure has down time and requires commitment from both the practitioner and the patient to stick to a protocol without which results may become questionable and side-effects may be more frequent” 29

PEELS which will stay in place for 12 hours or immediate application of a post-peel mask followed by bismuth subgaleate (BSG) powder.



DEEP PEELS: PEEL DEPTH: Below the IRD, involving the reticular dermis. There are various formulations on the market with varying penetration depths. Occlusion is sometimes used for 12 hours post peel over parts of or the entire face to increase the penetration.


SKIN PREPARATION: Same as medium depth peels. AGENTS: The main agent used for deep peelings is phenol, usually in combination of various percentages of croton oil and sometimes other agents such as TCA. The traditional Baker-Gordon formula seems to be less and less used because it causes too much hypopigmentation. Phenol, just like TCA causes coagulation of the skin cell proteins and is selfneutralising.




PROCEDURE: After an in-depth consultation with careful and meticulous consenting, a blood test has to be performed to assess the kidney and liver function and to exclude diabetes and Hepatitis C. The peel itself takes up to four hours to perform and cardiac and oxygen saturation monitoring is necessary during the procedure. Analgesia and anxiolytics are used prior to the peel and local anaesthesia can be used to make the procedure more comfortable. General anaesthetic is nowadays not generally necessary for these peels and they are now clinicbased procedures.After the usual cleansing, disinfecting and degreasing of the skin the face is divided into various cosmetic units or sections. Each section is then slowly peeled until a uniform white frost appears (depending on the formula used). The frost may not appear uniform or may be grey-white in colour. Immediate swelling is usually noticed. Once a section has been treated and the required number of coats have been applied one should wait for 10 minutes before moving on to the next section to reduce the risk of cardiac arrhythmia. The peel is finished by the application of either an occlusive tape

AFTER CARE: Facial swelling will generally increase greatly over the following three days and the patient is very often unable to open the eyes for the first 24 hours post-peel. Also, the first 12 hours after the procedure may be extremely painful and therefore adequate analgesia, anxiolytics and sedatives are necessary. Over the following four to five days increasingly more BSG powder is applied to stop ‘oozing’ and to act as a protective barrier. This mask cannot be removed under any circumstances for at least six days. Prophylactic antibiotics and antivirals are generally necessary during this period.Washing hair or brushing teeth is not permitted until the mask has been removed and because the patient cannot open their mouth too far; liquid food (protein shakes, soups etc) through a straw is needed for at least the first five to six days after the peel. DOWN TIME: At least six days of isolation with a semi-solid mask covering the face. Relative rest for at least a week. No solid food for at least five days. Skin dryness and sensitivity for at least a few weeks and sometimes very marked erythema for up to six months after the peel. SIDE EFFEC TS: Mainly prolonged erythema, rarely pigmentation and rarely infection and scarring. RESULTS: This peel gives the most dramatic results when it comes to removal of moderate to deep wrinkles with a drastic reduction in skin laxity. It is especially useful to tighten the eyelids and to eradicate periorbital XAVIER AT DAY EIGHT POST THE PHENOL PEEL and perioral lines. The results will generally take up to six months to completely show but will last for many years.I have been performing superficial and medium peels for seven years and deep (phenol) for about a year now. Taking the step from superficial to medium or from medium to deep can be daunting and it was after four years of research and a number of trainings that I started performing phenol peels. I find peels enjoyable and rewarding to perform and the results can be amazing, with high patient satisfaction. To learn more about chemical peels, especially deeper peels, Dr Philippe Deprez, a respected and experienced doctor from Spain is holding a lecture at the British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM) Conference on September 28 at the Heythorp Park Hotel near Oxford. The conference is open to doctors, dentists and nurses and for more information keep an eye out on

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AT A LOSS? In the first of a two part article, Dr Sotirios Foutsizoglou looks at hair loss treatments

Dr Sotirios Foutsizoglou is a member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England and performs hair transplant surgery in Harley Street, London. He is also a member of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and the founder of SFMedica. He specialises in cosmetic surgery and aesthetic medicine with numerous publications in UK journals, magazines and newspapers. He is also one of the senior trainers in non-surgical procedures with KT-Training Medical Aesthetics.

Hair loss can be a devastating problem for both men and women. Although genetically programmed hair loss or androgenetic alopecia cannot be classified as ‘disease’ or ‘illness’, doctors of all specialties should be able to recognise the negative impact it has on people’s psychological well-being. People’s concerns regarding their thinning hair should never be disregarded or overlooked. Hair loss is not just a male problem. It is estimated that one in five women will experience some degree of hair thinning. The psychological toll of hair loss is often underestimated. Studies have shown that hair loss can significantly impair quality of life by causing increased anxiety, depression and low self-esteem. Poor self-image and confidence, not infrequently encountered in hair loss sufferers, can profoundly affect how a person relates to others in their social and professional environment. In advanced alopecia hair restoration surgery is the only effective and long lasting answer to the problem. In the past hair transplant had received bad press making people hold back from opting for a surgical solution to their balding appearance. Nowadays with advancements in technology and better understanding of the anatomy and pathophysiology of hair, hair restoration surgery has made huge strides and the results can be natural looking and permanent. There are mainly


two types of hair restoration techniques used for cosmetic improvement of the thinning scalp, the traditional follicular unit transplantation (FUT) or strip method and the follicle extraction technique or FUE.

Pathophysiology of hair loss Human hair grows in tiny bundles called follicular units. There are several definitions of the follicular unit (FU) but most hair specialists agree that any grouping of hairs consisting of more than one terminal follicles, usually between one and five, along with a couple of vellus hairs, as well as the associated sebaceous glands and arector pili muscle (Fig.1) can be termed a follicular unit. In terms of hair restoration surgery, it is generally accepted that a FU refers to a graft that has kept intact the natural cluster of hairs as seen on the surface of the scalp.

Fig.1. Hair Anatomy FU density on the scalp averages between 70 to 120 FU/cm2. Variations in density and hair life span are found at different locations on the scalp and in different ethnic groups. For instance, even in a man with severe hair loss, he will still have a horseshoe pattern of permanent hair at the back of the head (i.e. occipital fringe) which can potentially become a donor area for a surgical redistribution of the existing hair. Only a very small percentage of men ever develop hair loss that is more severe than Type VI MPB (Fig.2).

Fig.2. Classification of Male Pattern Baldness (MPB) Normal hair has a growing anagen phase of two to six years, an involutional catagen phase of two to three weeks, and a resting telogen phase of two to three months during which some hair is shed. In hair loss there is a progressively shortening anagen phase associated with hairs becoming shorter and finer until the affected follicles (or bulbs) produce no more hairs. This process is called hair miniaturisation whereby thick, pigmented terminal hairs are replaced by fine vellus hairs and eventually no hairs. In men, hair loss is more patterned, whereas in women it usually presents as diffuse thinning involving most of the scalp hairs. However unpatterned hair loss can be seen in both men and women in cicatricial alopecias whereby hair follicle damage is associated with atrophy and scarring of the scalp skin. Acne, fungal infections, herpes simplex, inflammatory diseases such as lichen planopilaris, folliculitis decalvans and pseudopelade of Brocq are the most common causes of scarring alopecia. The mainstay of therapy is early intervention with a combination of antibiotics and intralesional steroid injections to prevent disease progression and permanent hair loss.

Men The mode of inheritance of male pattern baldness is presently unclear, however, it is most likely polygenic with an androgen-dependent pathogenesis. The actions of androgens are regulated by the androgen receptor that modulates the transcription of androgen responsive genes thought to play a major role in the process of follicular miniaturisation and androgenetic alopecia. Recent work has suggested that frontal scalp of balding men has higher expression of androgen receptors compared to the occipital scalp. This is thought to be a major contributing factor to the site-specific miniaturisation seen in androgenetic alopecia. The role of androgens in hair loss has been considered since the ancient Greeks when Hippocrates and Aristotle observed the absence of baldness in eunuchs. Although the influence of androgens in female pattern hair loss (FPHL) is not as pronounced as in male pattern hair

loss (MPHL) it is worth mentioning that women with clinical hyperandrogenism often develop a pattern of hair loss similar to what is seen in men, with bitemporal recession and vertex thinning. Nowadays we know that a metabolite of testosterone, not the testosterone itself, 5 -dihydroxytestosterone (DHT) is the principal causative agent of hair loss in men. The tissue active androgen DHT shortens the anagen cycle from years of growth to months. The metabolism of testosterone to DHT is catalyzed by the enzyme 5 -reductase, which exists as two isoenzymes: Type I and Type II. Inhibitors of 5 -reductase such as Finasteride and Dutasteride, which are the most effective pharmacological treatments to date, target the type II and type I & II isoenzymes respectively.

Women In women, there appears to be two main peaks of onset of hair loss: 3rd and 5th decades. Similarly to men, those women with an earlier onset tend to develop more severe degrees of hair loss. Hair loss in women is often linked with ageing or menopause as falling levels of the female hormones oestrogen and progesterone allow testosterone – which is also produced by women to a lesser degree - to have a greater impact on the hair follicles. A review of a female patient’s medical background is of paramount importance, since comorbid medical conditions and a large number of medications can cause telogen effluvium and permanent hair loss. In some cases, not routinely, appropriate laboratory investigations, microscopic evaluation of the hair shaft, and scalp biopsy may be indicated in order to establish a diagnosis. Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), hypothyroidism, iron deficiency, metabolic disorders such as diabetes, nutritional deficiencies (e.g. protein, zinc, magnesium, biotin), dermatological conditions such as alopecia areata, severe stress, neoplasm, radiation, and autoimmune diseases (e.g. discoid lupus) can all potentially cause alopecia in women. Finally, non-medical causes of hair loss in women, include trichotillomania and direct trauma to the hair (e.g. perming, bleaching, straightening, etc).

Pharmacotherapy Most of the drug treatments for FPHL and MPHL are not prescribable on the NHS. Doctors who are involved in hair loss treatments must be fully aware of the indications and contraindications of drug treatments along with the mechanism

of action, side effects, limitations and expected results. Minoxidil (Regaine) 2% is the only licensed drug for FPHL in the UK. It has been shown to increase the ratio of anagen to telogen hairs. However its exact mechanism is not clearly understood. Minoxidil 5% foam is recommended for MPHL. Minoxidil is usually stopped 2 or 3 days before surgery to reduce intraoperative bleeding due to vasodilation. Finasteride (Propecia) 1mg daily, a type II isoenzyme inhibitor, is licensed for men only. However doctors with experience in the treatment of FPHL have used it in post-menopausal women with some degree of success. Dutasteride inhibits both type I & II 5 -reductase isoenzymes. Evidence suggests that dutasteride is three times more effective than finasteride. Dutasteride can decrease serum DHT by more than 90% whereas finasteride reduces it by about 70%. Dutasteride dose can vary between 0.5mg and 2.5mg daily or weekly but that needs to be discussed on an individual basis. Anti-androgens (e.g. spironolactone, cyproterone) and oral contraceptives are used to suppress the ovarian androgen output in PCOS. Ketoconazole, an imidazole antifungal, has antiinflammatory properties and is associated with reduction of Malassezia colonization of the skin found in seborrheic dermatitis. It has also been implicated in the disruption of DHT pathway. Therefore 2% ketoconazole shampoo can be used in both men and women in conjunction with Finasteride and/or Minoxidil. Finally I would also like to mention non-pharmacological treatments that I have used, with various degrees of success, in earlier stages of hair loss such mesotherapy and PRP. These treatments can also be combined with drug treatments and/or hair restoration surgery for better results. Hair Mesotherapy is the practice of using a combination of hair follicle targeting specific microinjections of compounded homeopathic agents and plant extracts such as vitamins (e.g. Biotin), sulphur amino acids, essential minerals (e.g. Zinc), dexpanthenol (the biologically active form of panthenol), ginkgo biloba and organic silicon in order to cause an increase in blood circulation to the scalp and stimulate the follicles to produce better quality and thicker hair.

PRP therapy causes activated platelets to release growth factors. These growth factors promote bio cellular regeneration which in the case of hair loss is translated as prolongation of the anagen phase and follicular stimulation to produce better quality hairs. Next month the article continues with hair transplant surgery.

References:Ref1–‘HarriesMJ,SunJ.Managementofalopeciaareata.BMJ2010;341:209-258.Ref2–PatelM.AndSinclairR.Epigeneticmodificationsmayexplaintherelativeprotectionof occipitalhairfolliclesfromandrogeneticalopeciainmen.HairTransplantForumInternational.Vol.4.July/August2011.Ref3–UngerWPetal.HairTransplantation.5thEdition.InformaHealthcare2011. 35


A POSITIVE T R A N S F O R M AT I O N As Galderma prepares to unveil its new vision and re-branding for its aesthetic portfolio later this month, we get a taster of what’s to come and examine the products that make the brand At its annual Q-Med Academy meeting on Friday March 15 at the Royal College of Physicians, Q-Med, a Galderma Division, will be having the ‘big reveal’ of the new vision for the Galderma aesthetic portfolio. The new vision has been created over the last year, with input from across all 70 countries within the Galderma network and further strengthens the company’s position as a market leader in the aesthetics field. Product manager Jen Pain explains, “The whole brand idea is around the power of positive transformation. This message will be across the whole Galderma aesthetic and corrective portfolio – with each brand within the portfolio being positively transformed – in different ways!  Our range of treatments, holistic approach to facial aesthetics and customised services for aesthetic clinics make positive transformation possible for our practitioners and patients, on both the outside and inside. Our portfolio is a range built on quality and innovation – and we aim to meet professional standards and meet clinicians’ needs.”   • THE GALDERMA AESTHETIC PORTFOLIO The Galderma aesthetic portfolio comprises a diverse range of products built on quality and innovation. The company’s ethos is to deliver quality through a breadth of innovation and services so that, together with practitioners, they can positively transform patients’ futures. The portfolio includes the Restylane® range of dermal




fillers, Skinboosters and skincare; Emervel® dermal fillers; Azzalure® Botulinum Toxin Type A and Pliaglis® topical anaesthetic cream. • RESTYLANE® FILLERS Based on patented NASHA technology, Restylane® is a range of non-animal stabilised hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. Restylane® is a global market leader and gold standard for smoothing out wrinkles and lines, for filling out and shaping lips, defining facial contours and improving the quality of the skin. The products have superior lifting capacity, for a more defined look.   • RESTYLANE® SKINBOOSTERS Restylane® Skinboosters offer deep skin hydration for lasting improvements to skin quality. Restylane® Skinboosters are groundbreaking deep skin hydration treatments that improve overall skin quality from within for a natural radiance that shows. They offer a new approach to nourishing your skin, especially designed to deliver deep skin hydration and lasting improvements to the overall quality of the skin. This means increasing hydration levels within the skin to deliver a healthy radiance and provide improvements to the skin’s surface.Restylane® Skinboosters are versatile treatments that can be used: for any patient wishing to improve the quality of their skin; for men and women of all skin typesl; for people with younger or more mature skin; for the face, lips, neck, hands and décolletage and for people who want to improve skin structure, e.g. in acnescarred or photo-damaged skin (photos attached – before and after).   • RESTYLANE® SKINCARE At home topical hyaluronic acid treatments that deliver anti-ageing effects and more satisfied patients every day. Additional products being launched into the range this year include an Eye Serum and Day Cream with SPF15. • EMERVEL® FILLERS The Emervel® range of fillers has been created using Optimal balance technologyTM. Three factors are altered to affect gel characteristics –

levels of cross-linking and calibration are varied but concentration is kept constant. This achieves an optimum filler range with perfect tissue integration. Consequently no free hyaluronic acid is needed in Emervel®. The five Emervel® variants are formulated using a unique optimal balance of gel parameters to tailor each product to its indication. The products include: Emervel® Touch Emervel® Classic Emervel® Lips Emervel® Deep and Emervel® Volume •

AZZALURE® BOTULINUM TOXIN TYPE A Azzalure® is Galderma’s cosmetically licensed botulinum toxin type A. In March 2009, Azzalure® was granted a licence in the UK from the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) for the “temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe glabellar lines (vertical “frown” lines between the eyebrows) in adult women and men aged 65 and younger, when the severity of these lines has a psychological impact for the patient”. The approval was based on several clinical trials involving more than 2,600 patients. The product has a fast onset and long duration, achieving high level of patient satisfaction, maintained over six months. • PLIAGLIS® Pliaglis® is the first self-occluding, non-drip topical anaesthetic cream, containing the highest approved concentration of lidocaine and tetracaine in a single product.   To register for the Q-Med Academy visit

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We find out about the latest product launch from skincare pioneers SkinCeuticals – Redness Neutralizer

The colour red has many different connotations from love to danger but when it comes to the skin, redness is generally seen as a bad thing. There are many causes of skin redness or inflammation from environmental factors to foods, stress and medications. As pioneers in the field of cosmeceuticals, SkinCeuticals is always striving to develop and bring to market new, innovative products to target common skin concerns. Redness Neutralizer is its latest. Launched in January 2013, Redness Neutralizer is proven to help prevent and correct the onset of skin redness and flushing by up to 30% from patients suffering from any specific redness inflammation. This includes severe clinical conditions such as rosacea through to advanced aesthetic skin treatments. Redness Neutralizer is a superior cosmeceutical product with high levels of active ingredients. It works effectively on the skin to combat the associated signs and symptoms of skin redness, whilst also being suitable for the most sensitive of skin types. Redness Neutralizer works by helping to protect the skin against environmental triggers, which stimulate the sensory nerve endings, causing the onset of flushing, burning and discomfort for redness sufferers. These environmental aggressors can also impair the skin’s barrier function, leaving the skin feeling rough, tight and irritated and more susceptible to redness. The most common environmental trigger for the onset of redness and flushing is the weather, in particular UV exposure. Other specific triggers include alcohol, spicy foods and stress. Redness can also be prevalent following specific anti-ageing aesthetic treatments including medical needling, non-ablative lasers, microdermabrasion and chemical peels. Prescription drugs for rosacea often address breakouts and pustules, but in doing so, can overly strip the skin’s barrier, without addressing the redness of the skin. SkinCeuticals

subsequently developed Redness Neutralizer to specifically tackle the appearance of skin redness, whilst providing a comforting and soothing product for twice-daily use. Formulated with patent-pending NeuroMed Complex, an innovative combination of biomimetic peptides and natural actives, SkinCeuticals Redness Neutralizer helps to protect against the appearance of redness whilst helping to protect the skin’s barrier. Christopher Inglefield BSc MBBS FRCS(Plast) who lectured on skin redness at the recent Cosmetic News Expo said, “Rosacea is a common problem and many women and men suffer from facial redness. Redness Neutralizer provides these individuals with a science based topical product which blocks the inflammatory pathways leading to redness, flushing, burning and itching.”

SUITABLE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Redness Neutralizer offers a high performance formulation, suitable for sensitive skin types. It contains no alcohol, dyes, parabens or silicones; is formulated in a light texture that’s hydrating but without leaving an oily finish and is dispended in a pump to be sanitary. It is ideal as part of a sensitive skin care regime from SkinCeuticals comprising of Gentle Cleanser, C E Ferulic and Sheer Mineral UV Defense SPF 50.

POST PROCEDURE Redness Neutralizer can also be used postprocedure to help soothe and calm the skin, making it an ideal after-care product for nonablative fractionated laser and chemical peels.

SUITABLE FOR OTHER INFLAMMATORY CONDITIONS Redness Neutralizer has proven to be effective

OBSERVATIONAL STUDIES BY MR CHRISTOPHER INGLEFIELD BSC, MBBS, FRCS (PLAST) Mr Christopher Inglefield undertook his own observational studies with 9 patients over a period of 6 months. Using The Visia Complexion Analysis Machine - an advanced skin analysis tool, he was able to qualitatively assess each client’s skin and compare the results to their peer group for numerous skin concerns including UV damage, skin evenness, wrinkle depth and redness. He was also able to scientifically quantify the impact Redness Neutralizer had had on his patients’ level of redness. Results include a redness level of 2% (severe) decreasing to a redness


Redness Neutralizer is available now. For more information call 05603 141 956 or email

at reducing the appearance of redness for inflammatory conditions such as acne lesions, scars, red stretch marks and superficial burns.

CLINICAL TRIALS In a 12-week clinical trial of 48 subjects, conducted by a board-certified dermatologist, Redness Neutralizer provided significant reduction in redness and flushing on mild to moderate sufferers of skin redness. In 12 weeks, the appearance of redness and flushing was reduced by 30% and skin radiance improved by 30% with skin smoothness improving by over 55%. In addition, 96% of users reported immediate overall satisfaction and recognised that skin immediately felt smoothed. 98% of users stated that skin felt smoother immediately after application and 87% of users reported a reduction in the appearance of their redness in just 12 weeks.

level of 21%, which is a 19% improvement and a UV damage level of 33% to 56%, which is an improvement of 23%. Mr Inglefield says: “When I was first introduced to Redness Neutralizer earlier this year, I had an immediate patient who I knew I wanted to trial this on. She has been a regular patient for more than 5 years and has tried many products to treat her redness, with very little success. Within 3 weeks, Redness Neutralizer had proven impactful on her condition, with her commenting, ‘my skin has never felt so calm’. This patient testimonial was the stimulator for me to conduct a small UK observational study to further evaluate the efficacy of the product.”

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We find out about the new Genuine Dermaroller™ eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation device Medical skin-needling is now an established clinical procedure with clinical results and skin improvements that are well known and undisputed. Peer review studies and clinical reviews have established this as an effective treatment with an excellent safety profile. Its suitability for all skin types has made it a key treatment for acne scarring, sun damaged and ageing skin, fine lines and wrinkles and stretch marks. The Genuine Dermaroller™ medical devices have won multiple gold awards, confirming them as the UK’s professional and consumer ‘gold’ standard in medical skin-needling. The training, clinical support and supply of these high quality German medical devices by AesthetiCare®, has established them as the recognised UK experts in medical aesthetic skin-needling. 2013 marks a new beginning in medical skinneedling with the introduction of eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation. Using the eDermastamp™, the latest, electronic addition to the Genuine Dermaroller™ family, AesthetiCare® is again leading the way in quality, efficacy and safety assurance.Manufactured in Germany, the eDermastamp™, is a high quality, CE marked medical device. The single-use eDS™ needle cartridges feature a micromedical skin-needle head, designed and manufactured by Dermaroller GmbH, using the Medizinish Nadel Technik™ medical-needle technology that so distinguishes the Genuine Dermaroller™ range. Dermaroller™ has achieved such a great safety profile and delivered such great results because it has developed and maintained the highest manufacturing and quality standards, through development, production and supply. The automation of the Genuine Dermaroller™ medical needles needed a German, medically engineered machine of a similar quality. Working with the leading experts in their


field, this has been achieved through a partnership with MT.DERM GmbH, Berlin, Germany. Recognised as the market leader in medical-tattooing equipment, MT.DERM GmbH are accustomed to producing high quality, CE marked devices. As the manufacturers of the eDermastamp™ motor, MT.DERM have developed a stylish, compact and easy to use unit. Operating with low noise and low vibration it has a needle speed of up to 150 hits per second and complements the precision and efficiency provided by the Medizinish Nadel Technik™ medical-needle technology. Similarly to the widely recognised GD™ Skin Rejuvenation procedure, using the Genuine Dermaroller™ medical devices, eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation will be performed by a trained practitioner from an authorised and approved clinic. The precision engineering of the eDermastamp™ medical device enables a high level of control and accuracy over the intensity of the procedure. Not only can the practitioner adjust the speed of the needle columns produced per second but, also the depth of the needle penetrations throughout the course of the treatment depending on the area being treated and the clinical condition of the skin. With a current maximum needle length of 1.5mm the primary indications for the eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation procedure are fine lines, wrinkles, photo-damaged and aged skin, acne

scarring and stretch marks. With an excellent comfort profile, further enhanced by the use of a topical anaesthetic and reported to have a better tolerance than traditional GD™ Skin Rejuvenation treatments, eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation provides the gold standard in electronic, medical skin-needling. To complement and further enhance the efficacy and comfort of the treatment, a ‘window’ in the body of the needle cartridge will allow the practitioner to incorporate the Dermaroller™ CIT mesotherapy solution into the eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation procedure. This CE marked, sterile combination of vitamins and peptides can then be introduced to the skin through the course of the treatment, providing enhanced hydration and rejuvenation to the patient. With the same dedicated customer service, account management support and structured training provision as with GD™ Skin Rejuvenation, AesthetiCare® are maintaining their position as the UK experts in medical aesthetic skin needling. With a newly designed, web based training portal, to be launched in March 2013, practitioners will be able to stay up to date with the latest developments and ensure all trained practitioners within their clinics are using the eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation System in such a way as to achieve optimum results for their patients. eDS™ Skin Rejuvenation will normally consist of a series of three eDS™ procedures with approximately six weeks between them. Depending on the particular skin complaint it may be necessary to increase the number of treatments required, alternatively a GD™ Skin Rejuvenation treatment using the traditional Genuine Dermaroller™ medical device, either on its own or in combination with the eDermastamp™ may be the most beneficial course of action to achieve maximum results.













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CE-IN G IS BE L IEVIN G We chat to Medik8 founder and pharmacologist Elliot Isaacs about the role of vitamin C in skincare and his latest innovation, CE-Thione™ pigmentation marks. Free radicals induced by UV light are responsible for 95% of premature skin ageing. Having an appropriate anti-oxidant protection such as vitamin C is therefore essential to minimise the visible signs of ageing. CN: What have the challenges been when using this ingredient in skincare? EI: L-ascorbic acid is the best form of vitamin C. It is highly unstable and degrades very quickly, losing its ability to perform when applied to the skin and in the worst cases it becomes a pro-oxidant! When a molecule becomes a pro-oxidant it starts generating free radicals rather than neutralizing them.

Cosmetic News: Why is vitamin C such an important anti-ageing ingredient? Elliot Isaacs: It is widely accepted that vitamin C is a key component for good biological functions and overall well being. In addition to its multiple benefits to the body, vitamin C is clinically proven to deliver anti-ageing benefits to the skin. Potent vitamin C is essential for the formation and transportation of collagen into the dermis, it displays great anti-oxidant properties, and plays an important role in the reduction of

When L-ascorbic acid goes off, it also changes colour giving the product a slightly brown colour. Moreover, when formulated in water, vitamin C often lead to a less pleasant products when applied on the skin. When developing CE-Thione™ we wanted to overcome all these challenges: CE-Thione™ combines a pleasant texture, high concentration of L-ascorbic acid and outstanding stability! CN: How have you addressed these problems with the new product? EI: CE-Thione™ is the result of two years of research and combination of eight

CE-Thione’s stabilising system is unique (vitamin E and L-Glutathione), we have reproduced a network anti-oxidant system that already exists and works in the skin! CE-Thione™ has a rechargeable vitamin C system that helps to keep vitamin C stable in the bottle but also on the skin! 42

technologies. We have identified ALL the factors that can affect the stability of L-ascorbic acid in an aqueous solution (i.e pH, solvents, oxygen level) and we have addressed each of them individually! CEThione™ delivers potent vitamin C to the skin. CN: What makes it so different from any other product on the market? EI: CE-Thione’s stabilising system is unique (vitamin E and L-Glutathione), we have reproduced a network anti-oxidant system that already exists and works in the skin! CEThione™ has a rechargeable vitamin C system that helps to keep vitamin C stable in the bottle but also on the skin! We offer the best form of vitamin C in a an elegant cosmetic formula that is pleasant to use and delivers incredible results, at a fair price. CN: How does CE-Thione work? EI: The rechargeable system allows for vitamin C to be recharged by vitamin E and L-glutathione as soon as it is used up by the skin, leading to a long lasting anti-oxidant protection throughout the day. CN: How does it sit alongside other products in the Medik8 range such as your best selling CE Tetra product? EI: We now have a complete range of vitamin C products to choose from. Thanks to different levels of anti-oxidant power, concentration and medium in which the product is delivered (oil or water); we now have a potent vitamin C product for every skin type, any age and any budget! CN: What’s next for Medik8? EI: Medik8 is working towards solution focused technologies. We aim at being number one in skin ageing, acne, dryness, pigmentation and redness. Our pigmentation solution is our next area of focus for 2013! But we’ll tell you more soon.


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“Epionce & The Canvas of the Skin” Seminar Meet and listen to leading US dermatologist and founder of Epionce, Dr Carl Thornfeldt on Wednesday 10th April 11am to 5pm at The Academy of Medical Sciences, London. Learn about: • Using and understanding an effective skincare with fourteen clinical studies • Why the MelanoLyte pigment systems leads the way for safe results • How to sell and earn more from your skincare • Practical help for effective Epionce skin peel treatments

Why Should I Attend? FREE of charge seminar plus BUY ONE GET ONE FREE on Epionce retail products for orders on the day, and 10% discount on orders for all delegates for next 6months.*

Register NOW: email Dr Carl Thornfeldt is joined by: Dr Kate Goldie

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Founder of Medics Direct

Owner of Cosmetech Maypole Clinic

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Q& A We speak to Dariel Sydney the nternational marketing director for Athena Cosmetics about the new RevitaLash® FineLine Primer As the international marketing director for Athena Cosmetics, the makers of RevitaLash®, Dariel Sydney has a more personal connection to the brand she markets than most. Her father is ophthalmologist Dr Michael Brinkenhoff who developed the eyelash-enhancing product after his wife, and Dariel’s mother, Gayle, lost most of her eyelashes during a battle with cancer. We caught up with her during a recent visit to the UK to mark the launch of the brand’s latest new product, RevitaLash® FineLine Primer, a new skin perfecting primer that instantly smoothes and erases dark shadows and imperfections. Cosmetic News: What is RevitaLash® FineLine Primer? Dariel Sydney: RevitaLash® FineLine Primer is a technologically superior emulsion that instantly transforms the surface of the skin, minimizing the appearance of shadows and imperfections. CN: What makes it different from other cosmetic primers on the market? DS: By utilising spherical light reflecting technology, FineLine primer allows the wearer to instantly look younger by visibly softening the appearance of wrinkles while leaving your skin feeling smooth and supple. Silicone Elastomers create a dry, powder-like feel while providing excellent glide and oil control for a silky-soft application.  Finally, Alaria Esculenta Extract (Brown Algae) is a uniquely  balanced and rich composition for skin protection and suppleness. We developed FineLine Primer as a direct result of our customers demand asking

us for a product that addressed imperfections around the eye area but their feedback showed us that it also works as a great primer for the entire face! CN: How is it used? DS: Before make-up, pat a small amount of FineLine Primer onto the skin and around the outer corner of the eye. Let dry one minute before regular makeup application. CN: Do you plan to add more products to the skincare line? DS: Yes, but on a very select basis. Our goal is to limit our range to formulas that are truly unique while offering exceptional care to the skin.  CN: How has the recent ruling by a Californian court affected the RevitaLash® brand? DS: While we are unable to comment on ongoing litigation, we are confident that the brand will continue to thrive as it has


since its very inception. Athena Cosmetics (as well as other manufacturers) is involved in a patent lawsuit in California against the maker of Latisse. The judge in that case said that RevitaLash® Advanced is a drug under California’s Sherman Law.  We disagree with the judge’s ruling, and are pursuing all legal options.  Out of an abundance of caution, we have voluntarily suspended sales of RevitaLash® Advanced in California until further notice. RevitaLash™ has an excellent safety profile and has extensive clinical testing and has been ophthalmologist  and dermatologist reviewed. Safety and quality are always the top priority for our company. CN: What’s next for RevitaLash®? DS: Our ongoing mission is to search for pioneering skincare technologies, and be true to our vision as a leader in the world of beauty. We are now available

in over 40 countries worldwide. We have proved ourselves scientifically and clinically and now it’s time to show people how fun our brand can be!! We plan to introduce products that enhance our existing RevitaLash range. We have been testing a brow highlighting pencil that has top of the line ingredients with light reflecting technology that create the illusion of amazing brows which we hope to launch in Spring of 2013. Giving back to breast cancer continues to be the first and foremost thing that we concentrate on including charity walks and ongoing events and October awareness month is a huge month for RevitaLash®. In 2012 a percentage of our proceeds went to several different charities including international charities for the first time. We continue to give back to the community from which RevitaLash® was created.

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UNDER ANALYSIS We find out about the Antera 3D™ Skin Analysis Camera Skin imaging is acknowledged as a very useful adjunct to aesthetic treatments, not only as a consultation tool but as a method of monitoring treatment progress and as part and parcel of good patient record keeping. One new system that was launched to the UK market by Luminary at the Cosmetic News Expo that is taking skin imaging to another level is the Antera 3D™ Skin Analysis Camera from Miravex. Antera 3D™is a novel imaging device for the analysis and evaluation of the skin’s health. Based on an advanced optical technology, Antera 3D™ allows the user to view the skin in both 2D and 3D along with providing a multispectral analysis of the dermis and epidermis. Dr Ros Debenham gave a workshop about her use of the system at the Expo. She said, “I decided I needed something that would make sure that I could prove what I was doing was right and worked. This is how I got involved with the Antera 3D™ Skin Analysis Camera. For me it just stood out. When you are trying to sell things to people you need to have something that is different from what everyone else out there is doing and that is where the 3D camera just comes into its own.”

roughness and texture and measure the length, width and depth of fine lines, wrinkles and folds. Antera 3D™ provides you with a powerful tool for the evaluation of skin damage and allows you to monitor and quantify the improvement over time of laser resurfacing procedures, dermal fillers, IPL, etc.


Before image showing extensive melanin deposition (sun damage).


After one treatment with the fractional CO2 laser with clearance of sun damage by 36%

melanin and even quantify how uniform its distribution is (see above).



Red vessels and bumpiness on the cheeks associated with rosacea.


Clearance by 13% after laser genesis treatments using the NdYAG laser

Acne, rosacea, facial redness and ‘broken veins’ are effectively treated using vascular lasers. You can identify the size, extent and distribution of vessels and quantify the amount of haemoglobin in your patient’s skin. You can also measure the width and length of capillaries or thread veins, the area of the lesions and their haemoglobin content. Identifying the size, extent and distribution of vessels is important and determines which laser and which settings to use to provide best results. Ideal for vascular lesions, sclerotherapy, rosacea, angiomas.

Texture The camera is small, portable and compact which makes it very user friendly and it can measure a number of key factors in the skin on the face and body including: melanin, haemoglobin, texture, wrinkle depth.

Melanin Antera 3D™ will easily reveal the extent of sun damage. You can measure the exact concentration of 46

Antera 3D™ uses an innovative optical method and complex mathematical algorithms to acquire images in three dimensions. This allows you to analyse the shape of the skin in 3D, to quantify the efficacy of your treatments and monitor changes over time. Antera 3D™ measures the overall texture of the skin, and the depth and severity of fine and deep lines.

Wrinkles You can perform real quantitative measurements of skin

Compare before and after images Another key benefit of the camera is the ability to compare before and after images, on the exact piece of skin you captured before. Antera 3DTM employs Spot-OnTM, a proprietary algorithm that automatically registers two or more images to one another, by correcting displacements due to different positions of the patient when capturing an image. You don’t need to worry about your patients’ exact position, Spot-OnTM will automatically compensate for relative shifts and rotations of successive images. This translates into quick image acquisition and accurate data analysis. Spot-OnTM ensures that areas in successive images are registered to one another. All you need to do is select the area you would like to analyse in the ‘before’ image and press the ‘anchor’ icon on the toolbar of the ‘after’ image. The software will automatically find the corresponding area and register the two images to one another. The whole process takes less than one second.

Create a report You can also improve the communication with your patients by providing them with a detailed analysis of treatment results. You can use the images and data in graphic form to plan new treatments and prove the efficacy of your work over time and increase the satisfaction level of your clients. It is also a good way of keeping a data archive of your treatments and results and for medico-legal purposes. Dr Debenham says, “This is something you can print off for your clients and they can take it home. It is very pictorial with graphs and pictures – it says it all. Clients have said to me ‘how do I know your products and treatments are going to work? I have used all these expensive things and I am not sure it has made any difference’. The way I see this camera is my marketing tool above anything else. It is going to do all the analysis, it is going to show clients that my treatments are actually working and it is going to keep people coming back.” I am really excited about this technology for me it is a no brainer!”

SeeING IN 3d IS BEliEvinG unveiled at cosmetic news the uk’s largest trade aesthetics exhibition and conference

exp o

exhibition and conference


antEra 3d

S K I N A N A Ly S I S S y S T e M








rEmovE spEculation - TeChNOLOGy NO TrUe PrOFeSSIONAL CAN be WIThOUT The antera 3d™ is a handheld 3D skin analysis camera that accurately measures levels of melanin and haemoglobin in the skin as well as precisely measuring, in microns, the depth of lines, wrinkles and skin texture. • Scientifically Demonstrate your Patient’s Need for Treatment • Notably Improves Consultation Conversion rates • Increase Sales & Increase Up Selling Opportunities • Compare revolving 3D Images before, During & After Treatment • Accurately Measure & Quantify Patient Improvement and results • Increase Patient Confidence & Motivation to Complete Treatment • Antera 3D™ Keeps you Ahead of the Competition

PICTUre yOUr PrOFIT WITh antEra 3d™ Halo ElitE™ lasEr Hair tHErapy • • • • •

The Fastest Growing New Treatment in the UK Available in Over 40 Clinics Nationwide Average Treatment Value £2000 1 New Patient Per Week = £100,000 pa Full Marketing Support including Nationally Optimised Lead Generation Website • Interest Free Finance Available until the end of April 2013 •

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ABC Lasers Unveils Soprano ICE


Among the new launches being showcased at the Cosmetic News Expo last month was the latest innovation from Alma Lasers, Soprano ICE. Distributed in the UK by ABC Lasers, the new laser is being hailed as ‘the most effective and most comfortable method of permanent hair reduction and removal’. Soprano is Alma Lasers’ flagship laser hair removal system based on the company’s patented SHR technology – a clinically proven method of effective and virtually pain free hair removal. In multiple clinical studies conducted by leading dermatologists, Soprano has been proven as safer, equally or more effective, and resulting in considerably less ABC Lasers’ Guy Goudsmit unveils the new Soprano ICE at the Cosmetic pain than other laser hair removal technologies. It can also News Expo be used all year round on all hair and skin types. Soprano ICE cools the skin with an encircled sapphire tip, preventing surface burns while maintaining heat within the dermis. This high fluency delivery system provides an even more comfortable and faster treatment with improved results for light coloured and thin hair. A lighter and improved ergonomic design also means Soprano ICE is now even easier to use and can be used to treat smaller and difficult to target areas like the eyebrows, nose and ears. Mr Lior Dayan, Alma Lasers VP of sales and marketing applauded the new system, “Since 2006 when Alma Lasers unveiled its clinically proven SHR hair removal technology, the Soprano has become the industry’s gold standard in laser hair removal. The new Soprano ICE further raises the bar in laser hair removal, and places Alma Lasers firmly in the position of industry leader.”


Medik8® launches Pore Refining range

British skincare brand Medik8®has introduced three new pore-refining products to its cleansing range. The new cleansing products are pH balanced, free from pore-blocking sulphates, soap and parabens with a fresh and uplifting fragrance. The range includes poreCleanse Gel, a new fragrance-free gel formula with L-Mandelic Acid, Salicylic Acid and L-Lactice Acid that removes oil, dirt and bacteria from the skin; dailyScrub which provides daily deep pore cleansing with a combination of L-Mandelic Acid and Salicylic acid and clayMask, a purifying clay mask designed to reduce the appearance of pore size and leave the skin purified, refreshed, soft and glowing. This mask is rich in natural clay to draw out impurities and absorb excess oil, helping to prevent clogged pores.

Nanogen’s Hair Growth Factor technology receives a patent

Nanogen has been granted a patent for the core technology in its Hair Growth Factor products. This patent ensures that no-one can replicate their growth factor products and, consequently, no-one can reproduce their clinical trial results. The clinical trial, carried out recently by an independent laboratory near Paris, compared the effects of Nanogen Hair Growth Factor to the effects of a positive control. Nanogen Hair Growth Factor was shown to produce a 237% higher growth rate than the positive control over the course of the study. The patent is Nanogen’s first for their Growth Factor technology. It represents a real breakthrough for the company to be recognised in this way by the UK patent office. Elliot Isaacs, medical director and founder of Nanogen, says, “It’s fantastic for us to go some way to emulating the achievements of great British biotechs by gaining recognition for developing this new biotechnology. We are thrilled to be able to deliver such excellent results to our customers.” Consultant dermatologist Vicky Jolliffe commented, “The science behind Nanogen’s hair Growth factors is very exciting. I usually take a multi-faceted approach when treating thinning hair and we may see this product playing an important role in this approach.”The launch of Nanogen’s professional-only treatment range, predicted to contain three times the regular concentration of the newly patented Growth Factor complex, is due in April this year. 48

Carlton Beauty & Spa Ltd is launcing a series of new treatments within the innovative Arosha Express Slimming Programme. The Arosha Slimming Express Program uses pre-packed treatments with disposables bandages. The bandages are impregnated with a variety of quality ingredients to aid cellulite reduction, water retention, toning and moisturising, enabling the salon or spa to create a bespoke solution for each client. The pre-prepared and disposable bandages used in the treatments are highly hygienic and offer a fast and effective twist on traditional body wraps. The Starter Kit contains two packets of Aqua Drain, two of Slim-Cel 3 and four of Cel-Term 4, corresponding to eight treatments. In addition, the Starter Kit includes two Dry Brushes. A course of 8 sessions is recommended, twice a week, with each session lasting between 45 minutes to one hour. In addition, these novel wraps can be successfully combined with electrotherapy treatments to further enhance client results.


MAG Launches MD Lash Factor

Medical Aesthetic Group has launched a new lash-enhancing product – MD Lash Factor. The physician formulated eyelash conditioner has unique patented technology that improves the appearance of natural lash length, thickness and fullness. Developed by Dr Susan F Lin, a practicing physician in women’s health, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine for over 21 years, the prostaglandin free formula combines the latest skin care science with safe, results oriented ingredients. In a one month study 95% of users reported an improvement in the overall appearance of lashes. Active ingredients include Cytokine Complex, which delivers nutrients necessary to develop fuller, thicker, longer looking lashes and Thiotaine, a powerful mushroom derived peptide, that condition and helps protect and nourish lashes and allows them to develop to their fullest potential. The product should be applied to a clean, dry lash line once a day. Maximum results will be achieved between two to four months. The product retails at £79.96 (3ml).

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We speak to Michael Dodd, MD of Ellipse and Venus Systems, about the business philosophies that have made the company one of the most successful equipment suppliers in the UK aesthetics market


ichael Dodd has undoubtedly got a good nose for business. The entrepreneur once ran the highly successful high street hairdressing chain, Super Cuts, and in recent years has become a formidable figure in the aesthetic and beauty arena as the managing director of Ellipse and Venus Systems. The UK distributors for the Ellipse laser and IPL systems as well as Venus Concept RF and magnetic pulse systems, the company was set up in 1998 after Dodd sold Super Cuts to Regis. He explains, “I had a girl who worked for me in Florida who was doing laser hair removal and that was my introduction into the aesthetic beauty business. “The laser she was using came from an American company called Thermo Electron and it was a Soft Light Nd:YAG Q-Switched laser. We brought it back to the UK that year and sold over 200 systems. We also had Spain and South Africa and between those two countries we sold another 150. “A few years later, the company who manufactured the Soft Light laser system 50

decided that they would exit that side of the business because technology had moved on and they were more into making specific things like scanners. We were a little concerned because that had been ‘our product’ but Ellipse came to see us from Denmark and they had an IPL system. They explained how it was different to any other system out there with the dual mode filtering and by 2000 we started distributing the Ellipse equipment.” The financial crisis has seen many equipment suppliers struggle because of the high capital outlay associated with lasers, IPL and other aesthetic machines, Ellipse however has continued to see a steady growth. With more than 700 systems now installed in leading salons, clinics and spas up and down the UK, from small individual practices to large chains including the NHS, Dr Neil Walker, Sanctuary Spa and Bliss Spa, Ellipse is a force to be reckoned with. You may think this means they have a large sales force out on the road but they don’t, Dodd has built the business another way – on word of mouth and recommendation. “We build our business on customer satisfaction”, he says. “When I was at Vidal Sassoon I was only allowed to do one hair cut when I first went on the floor but I had to make sure that that one hair cut was so perfect that the client would go out and tell 10 friends

and I would then build my business and own personal book based on that. It is the same in this business. We don’t have eight or nine reps out on the road. We don’t have laser salesmen in suits who go out to visit people. If someone wants to have an Ellipse or a Venus, 90% of the time they come to us. “With the Ellipse system we are very much like Apple, we don’t just create clients, we create fans of the product. If people have an iPhone and they know someone who has a Blackberry they will often say ‘why are you using a Blackberry why don’t you have an iPhone?’ and it is the same with Ellipse. People out there with our Ellipse systems love them so much that last year we sold 36 second hand systems because our existing clientele came back and upgraded to newer machines.” Another thing Dodd prides himself on is second to none customer service encompassing technical support and a strong focus on training. He says, “Our training and technical support and our market leading equipment are what sets us apart in the industry. The success for us has been how much energy we put behind the product. As a company we don’t sell beauty couches, we don’t sell products, we sell nothing else at this time but the Ellipse equipment and now the Venus, which we took on last year. So we are very niche. On top of that, what makes us successful

in my view is the training that we put behind it, because everyone must have a minimum of three days training. No training, then I don’t sell them the system – everyone has to have training and certification and must take an exam. If they don’t pass the exam we will fail them and they have to come back. “With the Venus we are building the brand based on very strong open days, teaching our end users how to sell the product as well as how to carry out the treatment. My trainers are going in to show them how to sell, how to get their clients in for an open evening and how to build their business. “With regard to our technical support, we used to out source that but we found that when we out sourced it we didn’t have control of it and people’s machines were not being serviced as we would have liked so now we operate our own technical support from here where we have three engineers on the road. So whether you are in Northern Ireland, Southern Ireland, Scotland or the North or South of England, our engineers will come out and service the equipment. Our equipment when we sell it is guaranteed for up to two years but that is bumper to bumper as they say so if a wheel fell off or the screen went everything is covered under the warranty.”

ELLIPSE I²PL PLUS which has Dual Mode Filtering and Square Pulse Technology, eliminating the need for active cooling and enhancing efficacy. Ellipse I²PL+ offers a wide range of aesthetic and dermatologic treatments which can be further enhanced for the individual clients via Expert Mode. ELLIPSE LIGHT SPT PLUS which is clinically proven by leading doctors to be safe and effective and is ideal for lasting hair removal in all skin types, treatment of sun-damaged skin and removal of facial thread veins. ELLIPSE MICROLIGHT HR the company’s most affordable system which features easy operation and is pre-programmed to ensure safe and effective hair removal treatments as well as new innovative PLUS applicators which offer low running cost as their life-time is considerably longer than what is known from traditional I²PL applicators.

Ellipse service As the first brand he took on, Dodd is very passionate about Ellipse and believes its safety and efficacy are second to none. He says, “The efficacy of the Ellipse systems is fantastic. Ellipse as a company are the only company I know in the world that have done a 10 year study and they can almost claim permanent hair removal now. We are not claiming it we just carry on saying we do permanent hair reduction but the system is proven beyond any doubts whatsoever.” While in the early days it was just about hair removal, today the Ellipse range caters for a broad spectrum of indications and customer needs.

Systems in the Ellipse range include: ELLIPSE MULTIFLEX PLUS which combines an ergonomic Nd:YAG laser and innovative Intense Pulsed Light applicators to allow a wider range of dermatologic treatments than ever before including leg veins, facial telangiectasias, reticular vessels, resistant port wine stains and venous lakes.

and neo-vascularity in the targeted areas. The Venus Freeze™ has had a lot of press and has acquired a number of celebrity fans such as Keira Knightly, Cara Delevingne and Lisa Snowdon. Recently, Sarah Vine, the beauty editor for the colour supplement in the Saturday

Times had the Freeze facial at Neville’s and said she had ‘never had such a fantastic treatment in her life’. Dodd says, “Radio-frequency came out five years ago and many companies played around with it. Venus has got the technology and the results. We wouldn’t take on pieces of equipment that didn’t have independent clinical studies. Venus are the only company in the world who have patented RF with magnetic pulse, so it is much more thorough for skin tightening. It has been a complete and utter success story so far. At the moment we can’t keep the systems in stock! “Why do they like it? Well if a client comes in and has it on her face it takes half an hour to do the treatment, she can fall asleep because the sensation is so pleasant. There is zero pain and after they have had that they decide they will have their arms or their cellulite done. If you do just two treatments in the morning and two treatments in the afternoon and they are charging £100 a treatment, that’s £400 a day, that’s £2000 a week with no consumables just a coupling gel. “As long as you have the required number of treatments (eight to 12) you get fantastic results. It is the best in the world. I am sure it will be just as successful as the Ellipse system in proving itself.”

Moving on The Venus Concept The most recent addition to the Ellipse Beauty Light Ltd. portfolio is the Venus Concept range of products including the much talked about Venus Freeze™ and the Venus Swan™. The Venus Swan™ is a multi-technology system, which uses an innovative synergy of magnetic pulse and radio-frequency (RF) to deliver fantastic body contouring treatments for arms, tummy, thighs, buttocks and skin tightening treatments for neck and face. The Venus Freeze™ has gained popularity and column inches with its impressive results in skin tightening for the face and body. This novel, all-in-one aesthetic device can effectively accomplish circumference reduction, cellulite improvement, skin tightening and anti-ageing without causing any pain to the patient. Powered by innovative (MP)2 technology (multi-polar radio-frequency and magnetic pulses), Venus Freeze takes aesthetic treatments to a new level by creating a unique synergy between a matrix of bi-polar radiofrequency (RF) and magnetic pulses (PMF), which results in proliferation of fibroblasts, neocollagenesis

This year marks the beginning of an exciting new chapter for Ellipse and Venus Systems. The company recently moved its operations to plush new offices on a site shared with Harper Collins and South African Airways in Hammersmith. Dodd explains, “In Knightsbridge we were five floors up, now we have moved to Hammersmith we have got two ground floor units. It is also right by the underground station, so it is convenient for people coming in to see us. They can also park here so it really is fantastically convenient. I took a five year lease so this is where we are going to be now.” Now the company is in its new home, Dodd plans to focus on continuing the success of the Ellipse name in the UK and growing the Venus brand to the same lofty heights. He says, “We want everyone who has got an Ellipse piece of equipment to get into skin tightening because for me that is the future. People want motivation, they want enthusiasm they want to talk abut new treatments, but most of all they want treatments that work. For this year we really just want to build the brands with both Venus and Ellipse and in the next 12 months have Venus in the same position as Ellipse is in the UK.” 51

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AESTHETICS M AT T E R Elleven recently received recognition for its combination of innovation and elegance when the practice won the coveted ‘Most Attractive Dental Practice in the UK’ award. Here, Sameer Patel shares with readers why and how interior design affects patient satisfaction and can help to increase revenue The centre of Elleven’s universe is the patient, who is entitled to the highest quality professional care at all times. At Elleven it is about the whole experience, from the moment the patient walks through the door to the smile they have once treatment in finished. To achieve this, we have revisited every aspect of our building and business.The practice has been up and running for eight years, and

during the early years we offered predominantly orthodontic services. Over the last two years, my partner, Anthony Lam, and I have expanded from one floor to two, transforming five surgeries within a Grade II listed building in the heart of London’s healthcare district. Creating a modern practice within Grade II listed building guidelines was quite the challenge!

To achieve the highest standards we are constantly reassessing what we do and how we do it 54

to the level of comfort of the seating in the waiting room, everything mattered to us. As for the equipment we have invested in and the materials we use for clinical treatment, only the very best will do for our patients. Our practice includes its own on-site lab for a quicker turnaround, as well as digital X-ray capability and treatment rooms at the cutting edge of healthcare.

Just as a good, healthy, straight smile can make a positive difference to someone’s appearance, thoughtful refurbishment and/ or remodelling can make all the difference to how a healthcare business is perceived

When patients are happy in their surroundings and feel well looked after, it helps them to enjoy the progression of their treatment and look forward to each appointment. Leading on from that, our patients frequently compliment us on our interior design and state-of-the-art technology, as well as quality results, doctor accessibility, friendly staff and convenient hours. Then they tell their friends, relatives and colleagues about their great experience at Elleven, meaning our values have helped us to build a great core of patients who do a lot of our marketing for us! SEEK EXCELLENCE AND THE REST WILL FOLLOW To achieve the highest standards we are constantly reassessing what we do and how we do it. There is always something more that can be done, and by keeping the lines of communication open between ourselves, our patients, peers, colleagues and external agencies we will continue to grow and develop the brand to present a new and refreshed Elleven. Just as a good, healthy, straight smile can make a positive difference to someone’s appearance, thoughtful refurbishment and/or remodelling can make all the difference to how a healthcare business is perceived. With this in mind, we have tried to ensure that we have all the systems in place to become a super-premium London practice providing outstanding care for our patients who deserve to have straight, beautiful smiles.

That said, we persisted and are now able to offer comprehensive multidisciplinary care in a family-friendly environment under one roof. PATIENT PERSPECTIVES Our combination of first class service delivered in the most attractive, luxurious surroundings ensures that patients feel special and at ease. Elleven’s style and interior design combine the historical needs of a beautiful building with the latest dental technology seamlessly.We considered the potential impact of every detail during the refurbishment. From the neutral palette of the walls and floors, and how best to set them off against the beautiful, ornate details of the original building, Sameer Patel BDS, MFDS, RCS(Eng), is clinical director at the award-winning Elleven dental practice. He qualified from Birmingham University, having been awarded the Centenary Prize and nominated for the Clinical Excellence Award. He then completed his postgraduate studies at Oxford University and Guy’s Hospital, London, while working in dental practice. After his training, Sameer was awarded, by examination, Membership of the Faculty of Dental Surgery at the Royal College of Surgeons in London.Fully trained to perform general dentistry and cosmetic work, including dental implants and providing invisible orthodontics for teenagers and adults, Sameer is committed to providing patients with high quality dental care using the latest clinical techniques. Shivani Patel is a Consultant Orthodontist and qualified as a dentist at the United Medical and Dental Schools in London (Guys Hospital) and then studied orthodontics at the Royal London Hospital. Since qualifying, she has worked in a variety of dental facilities including maxillofacial and oral surgery. As part of her Masters qualification, she was awarded the European Orthodontic Society’s prestigious William Houston Award for research in Sleep Apnoea. She was awarded a Fellowship in Orthodontics by the Royal College of Surgeons after her further clinical and academic training at Guys Hospital and the Queen Victoria Hospital, West Sussex. This is where she gained experience in treating patients requiring multidisciplinary care such as Orthognathic Surgery and children with Cleft Lip and Palate, as well as teaching postgraduate students. Her special interests include multidisciplinary clinics (hypodontia) and snoring/sleep apnoea. Shivani is a Clinical Lead in the UK for Suresmile which is exclusively available at Elleven Orthodontics. 55


IT TAKES TWO We speak to Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel about why they decided to start running their own injectables Masterclass Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel are undeniably two aesthetic doctors at the top of their game. Both run successful practices and both are acknowledged and respected as KOLs, lecturing extensively around the Globe. Over the past few years touring the lecture circuit they have also become firm friends and have discovered a natural chemistry that has seen them presenting together on various occasions. The two are now combining their skills to collaborate on a new project, which will no doubt excite anyone who has seen them lecture or watch them inject – they are launching their own injectables Masterclass. One of the things that makes the pair so well placed to offer this kind of training is the fact they have both had the opportunity to train with and be mentored by some of the best injectors in the world such as Mauricio de Maio, Herve Raspaldo, Koenraad de Boulle and Arthur Swift. The courses will be held at the Royal Society of Medicine in London with the first taking place on March 27-28. They will range from introductory to masterclass level. Raj explains, “We saw that in the UK, in particular if you compare it to the rest of the world, the standard of training tends to be very elementary so we wanted to create something that was going to be on a variety of levels according to the individuals learning needs, from introductory, intermediate, advanced to the bespoke Masterclass. I don’t think there is anything in the UK that is offering that elite advanced Masterclass level of education. The point of a Masterclass isn’t just to give someone the knowledge skill and technical strategy to be able to treat a tear trough or to do a rhino-modulation, it is about teaching candidates to look at a patient and within 30 seconds of them walking in the room get a feeling for developing a treatment plan which is going to be focused around the top three priorities which produce the highest facial aesthetic impact through correction and beautification. Furthermore, exploring the facial geometry and artistic rationale for treatment, technical strategy to deliver it and then to be able to share that management plan with the patient to build a 56

robust treatment programme. We will also be looking at integrating other elements such as business development, marketing and strategies for success. Tapan adds, “Our remit is really to take the candidate and give them a complete all round exposure to all the things that go into executing the perfect treatment. One of the key things on the course will be moving away from individualised treatments to creating global treatment plans. It is not just about treating one line here or one line here it is about looking at the face as a whole.” The timing of this new venture could not have been more poignant. With the Keogh review due to publish its findings this month and a recent Royal College of Surgeons report calling for professional accountability in cosmetic medicine, it has never been more important to ensure that expert training in injectables is delivered at the highest possible standards. Raj says, “I think the way the market will move in the next two years, depending of course on the outcome of the Keogh review, is that people will have to raise their game. Because of the lack of regulation in the UK it has become OK to be mediocre – some people will aspire to mediocrity whereas they should be aspiring to be the absolute best that they can.”

A balance of skills Both Tapan and Raj bring different skills to the table and it is this unique combination that is their winning formula. Raj says, “The process that we went through in becoming KOLs was a bit like a Masterchef situation! When you work like that you learn to know each other very well and you get to learn each others strengths and weaknesses – what he can’t do I can do and vice versa. The main difference between the two of us is that Tapan is more scientific and I am more creative.” Tapan says, “What I find refreshing about working with Raj is that we have often different vantage points – we look at the same thing and we come up with different ideas to how we might do things. Even today

during our lecture at The Aesthetics Conference we had an interaction about treating the peri-oral area and from that we have got two or three things that will might try and integrate into a course that would be useful from a delegates point of view. Everyone has different priorities and strengths what I find really clicks with Raj is we both really have the passion – you have got to love what you do. It is also having the ambition to have really high standards and to strive for perfection and the ability to know you are what you are today and tomorrow you can be that little bit better and constantly strive to improve.”

Share and share alike One of the main philosophies of the course will be to share the latest evidence based knowledge and technique from all over the world. Tapan comments, “Neither of us is adverse to sharing information. Often people in this industry get to a very elevated position in their field and they feel vulnerable in sharing out that information but we don’t have an issue with it. I would rather there were 100 good injectors out there shedding a positive spotlight on the industry than 10 bad injectors out there creating negative press that make it bad for all of us. The more people out there doing it properly benefits everyone. Openness is lacking in the industry generally there are a lot of people who claim never to have made a mistake I always say if you have never made a mistake you just haven’t done enough treatments. It doesn’t reflect on your ability it just reflects on your volume. You will come across problems that is how you learn. Since we have been doing KOL work we feel there is this culture of retaining IP because that’s ‘your secret’ and your secret is your strength and should be guarded so why would you share it but of course we are all about sharing. You share the best of what you have, other people benefit, they become better and the whole industry improves as a whole. If we take the standard of injectable treatments up then surely that’s better for everyone.”


Facial Aesthetics

Masterclass By Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel

27th -28th 2013 March

The Royal Society Of Medicine London

Day 1

Botulinum Toxin Masterclass Botulinum Toxin - Science & History Facial muscles - Anatomy & Physiology Treating dynamic lines using Botulinum Toxin Upper & Lower facelift using Botulinum Toxin Bruxism, Masseteric hypertrophy & facial reshaping Live demonstration & delegate workshop Cocktail reception & Faculty dinner

Day 2 Dr Tapan Patel MBBS MRCP MBCAM Dip Derm, UK Ambassador and Key Opinion Leader in Facial Aesthetics

Dr Raj Acquilla MBChB MRCGP MBACD, UK Ambassador in Facial Aesthetics and Speaker of the Year 2012 - 2013

Dermal Filler Masterclass Hyaluronic acid & Dermal Fillers - Science & History Anatomy of the Skin, Facial Fat Compartments & Cranium Treating common lines & wrinkles with HA dermal fillers 3D Facial Volumetry, Lifting & Tightening Tear trough, cheek & peri-orbital beautification Rhino-modulation and injection rhinoplasty Lip & Peri-oral enhancement Chin & Jawline augmentation Validation & Certification

Enquiries : Jodie +44 8456 528 999


Top of the docs Antonia Mariconda finds out what a typical Day in the Life has in store for Dr Tracy Mountford Dr Tracy Mountford is the founder and medical director of The Cosmetic Skin Clinic with clinics in both Buckinghamshire and Harley Street. Known for her light hands and natural looking results, she has been named as one of the ‘top five Botox® doctors in the UK’. Dr Mountford is frequently quoted in the national press and magazines including The Times, The Telegraph, The Daily Mail, The Evening Standard, Tatler, Grazia, Woman & Home. Antonia Mariconda spends a day in her life. “I live in Buckinghamshire and my day usually starts at 8.30am with a strong black coffee! It’s the only way. I have a personal trainer that I work out with three times a week, which keeps me motivated to attain a level

extra attention to detail to ensure a smooth flow of patients. The morning is normally a time I will try and speak to journalists before the start of clinic. I then start all my clinics at 9am

One of my favourite aspects of this job is injecting and seeing patients on a daily basis. I would be bored if I did anything else! I find patient contact challenging and rewarding – indeed a large proportion of patients have been coming to me for years and I really value their loyalty of exercise that suits my lifestyle and keeps my energy levels up.I drive my Mini Cooper to work for ease but on occasion I will drive the Porsche Targa, it all depends what I have on that day, and it’s such a short run to work the mini seems the best choice for what I need. I listen to a mixture of music, quite diverse, but I love Cold Play! My journey to work takes about 20 minutes but on a London day to Harley Street an hour and a half! A typical morning starts off with internal meeting with my team of managers. Breakfast usually happens around this time and normally consists of fresh fruit on the hoof between patients to maintain my five a day! During the morning meeting we decide how the day is going to pan out highlighting any tricky areas that will need 58

prompt and pretty much work throughout the day. I normally have a few Thermage treatments peppered throughout the day and some detailed consultations. My afternoons are pretty much the same structure as a busy morning, every day is busy and varied and there is always so much going on, never a dull moment, that’s what makes the day pass so quickly.

I qualified at Charing Cross & Westminster Medical School. As an experienced anaesthetist I was skilled at working with my hands with great attention to detail, therefore non-surgical cosmetic medicine came as a natural career choice. I could see that the non-surgical industry was very young in the UK but had a lot of exciting growth potential when I looked at the American model, the rest as they say is history. I was influenced by inspiring role models such as Arnie Klein in the early days! One of my favourite aspects of this job is injecting and seeing patients on a daily basis. I would be bored if I did anything else! I find patient contact challenging and rewarding – indeed a large proportion of patients have been coming to me for years and I really value their loyalty. The most important thing for me is to deliver a very personal service of the highest standard and introduce new technologies and cosmetic treatments that will deliver superlative natural looking results. One of the least favourable aspects of the job I do is managing staff, I find that tricky sometimes, but on the whole I have a great relationship with my loyal staff. I’d like to see tighter regulation in the industry in 2013, there are so many wonderful aspects of this industry and one of my proudest moments was when I opened my new clinic in 2008. Family are my priority in my free time and I try to spend as much time with them as possible when I am out of my clinic. My final thought of the day? Thank goodness we survived and the patients are all happy!”

Antonia Mariconda also known as ‘The Cosmedic Coach’ is a health and beauty writer, and author of four books. She is quoted in national and consumer press such as the BBC, Top Santé, The Evening Standard, Daily Mail, and Metro, for her knowledge on beauty and aesthetics, and cosmetic surgery. Antonia also independently advises clients both from the UK and around the world on where and where not to shop safely for cosmetic surgery, beauty, aesthetic medicine, and anti-ageing treatments. Her client list includes A-list celebrities, Royalty and VIPs. Follow Antonia on Twitter @CosmedicCoach or join Antonia on Face book where you will be updated about events and happenings in the world of health and beauty.


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TRAINING NEWS FEW SPACES LEFT FOR BACN BUSINESS SKILLS WORKSHOP There are still a few spaces left on the business skills workshop being hosted by the British Association of Cosmetic Nurses this month. The event will take place on Monday March 11 at The Royal College of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists, in Sussex Place, Regents Park, London and costs £60 for BACN members or £90 for non-members, including refreshments and lunch. The event will include top tips and golden nuggets to move your clinic up a level and to guide you in the aesthetics business. The speaker line up includes: Dr Jason Williams on a whole new concept in ethically improving profitability; Richard Crawford Small on the new iConsultAesthetic; Jack Cottle on climbing the Google ladder and blogging; Lorna Bowes on customer loyalty; Emma Davis on nurses that sell; Alison Telfer on how to intelligently select and stock products to improve your practice; Marcus Haycock on improving your practice with key reports and measurement indicators; Lorna Jackson on the dos and don’ts of advertising; Ron Myers on web marketing strategies and discounting decisions and Peter Roberts on business models that work and putting them into action. For more information e-mail

EDEN AESTHETIC HOSTS FREE EPIONCE SEMINAR WITH LEADING US DERMATOLOGIST DR CARL THORNFELDT Eden Aesthetics is hosting a free seminar entitoed ‘Epionce and The Canvas of the Skin’. The event on Wednesday April 10 from 11am to 5pm at The Academy of Medical Sciences, London, will be an opportunity to meet and hear from leading US dermatologist and founder of Epionce, Dr Carl Thornfeldt. Delegates will learn about using and understanding an effective skincare with fourteen clinical studies; why the MelanoLyte pigment systems leads the way for safe results; how to sell and earn more from your skincare and practical help for effective Epionce skin peel treatments. Joining Dr Thornfeldt on the day will be Dr Kate Goldie, founder of Medics Direct who will speak about injectables and skincare and Lena Gillespie, owner of Cosmetech Maypole Clinic who will talk about how Epionce helps her keep ‘happy, loyal and profitable clients’. To register e-mail

CHEMICAL SKIN PEELING COURSE IS FIRST TO OFFER HIGHER LEVEL QUALIFICATION INCORPORATNG ONLINE TRAINING A new chemical skin peeling course from Sally Durant Training and Consultancy (SDTC) is the first to offer a fully accredited Level 4 qualification which combines online delivery of knowledge with face to face delivery of practical skills. The Level 4 Award in the Physiology and Practice of Chemical Skin Peeling, unique to SDTC, is accredited by Industry Qualifications. A standalone qualification, it can also be taken as part of the wider Level 4 Diploma in the Management and Practice of Clinical Aesthetics. Delivered in two modules - online distance learning followed by a face to face one day practical for skill learning and assessment - the course goes into the underpinning science behind the treatments, the peeling agents being used, the action of the peel within the skin or the variants of client adaptation, most of which is not covered in the majority of manufacturer and distributor-led training. “We’re proud to have developed this unique course and to be able to offer flexible, cost-effective online training,” said course founder, Sally Durant. “Students will be able to demonstrate a clear understanding of underpinning scientific knowledge and treatment-specific knowledge and techniques, as well as gaining valuable practical skills to deliver the treatment safely and to the highest quality level. “The combination of online and practical learning means that therapists and medical practitioners can develop their business via flexible, convenient training, and the be confident that their skills and knowledge are recognised with a higher level qualification from a respected awarding body.” 60



• MARCH 1 Cosmetic Courses Chemical Peel and Microdermabrasion, 2 Aesthetox Foundation Botox and Fillers, Birmingham, 2 Botulinum Toxin in Facial Aesthetics: New Users - Includes All Major Brands, Edinburgh, 3 Dermal Fillers in Facial Aesthetics: New Users to Hyaluronic Acid fillers, Edinburgh, 2 Aesthetox Microsclerotherapy, Birmingham, 3-4 Dermal Fillers and Botulinum Toxin Foundation Course, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 4 Obagi Workshop, Manchester, 4-5 Ultrasonic Lipo-cavitation The non-invasive alternative to Liposuction, Cawood House, Sutton, Ely, Cambs, 01353 777 303/ 07747 696 815,, 5 Level 2 Advanced HA Dermal Filler: Lower Face Shaping, Medex House, Loughborough, Leicestershire, 01509 239696 6 Ultrasound for Skin Rejuvenation and Wrinkle Reduction, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 7 Diamond Microdermabrasion for Face and Body, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 7 Glyderm Skincare and Glycolic Acid Peels, Medex House, Loughborough, Leicestershire, 01509 239696, 8 Pressotherapy for Lymphatic Drainage and Cellulite Reduction, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815, barbara@academyofadvancedbeauty. com, 9 Cosmetic Courses Foundation Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Fillers, 10 Mesotherapy – Face, Body and Hair, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 12 Genuine Dermaroller Training, Medex House, Loughborough, Leicestershire, 01509 239 696, 16 Dental Block and Lips Masterclass, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 16 Aesthetox Foundation Botox and Fillers, Birmingham, 16 Aesthetox Masterclass Botox and Fillers, London, 16 Cosmetic Courses Advanced Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Fillers, 18 Obagi Workshop, London,
 18 Neostrata Training Day, Stratheven, 01234 313 130, 20 Neostrata Training Day, London W1, 01234 313 130, 23 Botulinum Toxin in Facial Aesthetics: New Users (Including All

DATES FOR THE DIARY Major Brands), Birmingham, 24 Dermal Fillers in Facial Aesthetics: New Users to Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, Birmingham, 27-28 The Facial Aesthetics Masterclass with Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel, The Royal Society Of Medicine, London, Jodie +44 8456 528 999, 30 Aesthetox Foundation Botox and Fillers, Birmingham, 30 Aesthetox Chemical Peels, Birmingham,

Low Cost Finance Industry leading rates

• APRIL 2-3 Ultrasonic Lipo-cavitation The non-invasive alternative to Liposuction, Cawood House, Sutton, Ely, Cambs, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 4 Advanced Facial Treatment (combined course), 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 5 Diamond Microdermabrasion for Face and Body, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 6 Infrared for Weight Loss, Detox and other Health Benefits, 01353 777 303/07747 696 815,, 10 Epionce and The Canvas of the Skin Seminar with Dr Carl Thornfeldt, The Academy of Medical Sciences, London, 11 Obagi Blue Peel Workshop, London, 13 Chemical Peel Systems & Medical Skincare: Comprehensive Course For New Users, Central London, 14 Mesotherapy for Localised Fat, Cellulite & Skin rejuvenation: New Users, Central London, 19 Obagi Workshop, London,
 21 Micro-needling, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 24 Harley Street, London, 01234 313 130, 27 Revanesse Dermal Fillers, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 28 Advanced Botulinum Toxin, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110,

• MAY 12 Tear Trough Masterclass, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 14 Obagi Workshop, Glasgow, 18 Revanesse Dermal Fillers, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 18 Advanced Botulinum Toxin: Lower Face, Neck, Under-arm Hyperhidrosis,Central London, 19 Mesotherapy – Face, Body and Hair, Boston International Training Academy Ltd, Bayswater, London, 0207 727 1110, 19 Advanced Dermal Fillers: Facial Contours, Lip Refinements, SkinHydration, Central London, The Dates for the Diary section is now a paid for section of the magazine and is a chance for you to advertise your training courses to our readers both in the magazine and online. Advertisers will get free listings of any training courses as part of their campaign. Anyone else wishing to publish training courses can do so for £300 a year. For more details contact Carly McFarlane on 01268 754 897 or e-mail

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Bocouture® 50 Abbreviated Prescribing Information Please refer to the Summary of Product Characteristics (SmPC). Presentation 50 LD50 units of Botulinum toxin type A (150 kD), free from complexing proteins as a powder for solution for injection. Indications Temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown (glabellar frown lines) in adults under 65 years of age when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient. Dosage and administration Unit doses recommended for Bocouture are not interchangeable with those for other preparations of Botulinum toxin. Reconstitute with 0.9% sodium chloride. Intramuscular injection (50 units/1.25 ml). Standard dosing is 20 units; 0.1 ml (4 units): 2 injections in each corrugator muscle and 1x procerus muscle. May be increased to up to 30 units. Not recommended for use in patients over 65 years or under 18 years. Injections near the levator palpebrae superioris and into the cranial portion of the orbicularis oculi should be avoided. Contraindications Hypersensitivity to Botulinum neurotoxin type A or to any of the excipients. Generalised disorders of muscle activity (e.g. myasthenia gravis, Lambert-Eaton syndrome). Presence of infection or inflammation at the proposed injection site. Special warnings and precautions Should not be injected into a blood vessel. Not recommended for patients with a history of dysphagia and aspiration. Adrenaline and other medical aids for treating anaphylaxis should be available. Caution in patients receiving anticoagulant therapy or taking other substances in anticoagulant doses. Caution in patients suffering from amyotrophic lateral sclerosis or other diseases which result in peripheral neuromuscular dysfunction. Too frequent or too high dosing of Botulinum toxin type A may increase the risk of antibodies forming. Should not be used during pregnancy unless clearly necessary. Interactions Concomitant use with aminoglycosides or spectinomycin requires special care. Peripheral muscle relaxants should be used with caution. 4-aminoquinolines may reduce the effect. Undesirable effects Usually observed within the first week after treatment. Localised muscle weakness, blepharoptosis, localised pain, tenderness, itching, swelling and/or haematoma can occur in conjunction with the injection. Temporary vasovagal reactions associated with pre-injection anxiety, such as syncope, circulatory problems, nausea or tinnitus, may occur. Frequency defined as follows: very common (≥ 1/10); common (≥ 1/100, < 1/10); uncommon (≥ 1/1000, < 1/100); rare

(≥ 1/10,000, < 1/1000); very rare (< 1/10,000). Infections and infestations; Uncommon: bronchitis, nasopharyngitis, influenza infection. Psychiatric disorders; Uncommon: depression, insomnia. Nervous system disorders; Common: headache; Uncommon: facial paresis (brow ptosis), vasovagal syncope, paraesthesia, dizziness. Eye disorders; Uncommon: eyelid oedema, eyelid ptosis, blurred vision, eye disorder, blepharitis, eye pain. Ear and Labyrinth disorders; Uncommon: tinnitus. Gastrointestinal disorders; Uncommon: nausea, dry mouth. Skin and subcutaneous tissue disorders; Uncommon: pruritus, skin nodule, photosensitivity, dry skin. Musculoskeletal and connective tissue disorders; Common: muscle disorders (elevation of eyebrow), sensation of heaviness; Uncommon: muscle twitching, muscle cramps. General disorders and administration site conditions; Uncommon: injection site reactions (bruising, pruritis), tenderness, Influenza like illness, fatigue (tiredness). General; In rare cases, localised allergic reactions; such as swelling, oedema, erythema, pruritus or rash, have been reported after treating vertical lines between the eyebrows (glabellar frown lines) and other indications. Overdose May result in pronounced neuromuscular paralysis distant from the injection site. Symptoms are not immediately apparent post-injection. Bocouture ® may only be used by physicians with suitable qualifications and proven experience in the application of Botulinum toxin. Legal Category POM. List Price 50 U/vial £72.00. Product Licence Number PL 29978/0002. Marketing Authorisation Holder Merz Pharmaceuticals GmbH, Eckenheimer Landstraße 100, 60318 Frankfurt/Main, Germany. Date of revision of text FEB 2012. Full prescribing information and further information is available from Merz Pharma UK Ltd., 260 Centennial Park, Elstree Hill South, Elstree, Hertfordshire WD6 3SR. Tel: +44 (0) 333 200 4143 Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information can be found at Adverse events should also be reported to Merz Pharma UK Ltd at the address above or by email to or on +44 (0) 333 200 4143.


Date of preparation July 2012

Bocouture® is a registered trademark of Merz Pharma GmbH & Co, KGaA.


onfidence is Reliable1,2 Rewarding 3 Performance 4,5 BOTOX® is licensed for the treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines Delivers long-lasting patient satisfaction, time after time 2,3 Has been used for over 20 years in over 26 million treatment sessions worldwide6 Is the world’s first and most studied botulinum toxin*7

Botox® (botulinum toxin type A) Abbreviated Prescribing Information Presentation: Botulinum toxin type A (from clostridium botulinum), 50 or 100 or 200 Allergan Units/vial. Indications: Temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown (glabellar lines), in adults <65 years, when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient. Dosage and Administration: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information. Do not inject into blood vessels. Doses of botulinum toxin are not interchangeable between products. Not recommended for patients <18 or >65 years. Use for one patient treatment only during a single session. Reconstitute vial with 1.25ml of 0.9% preservative free sodium chloride for injection (4U/0.1ml). The recommended injection volume per muscle site is 0.1ml (4U). Five injection sites: 2 in each corrugator muscle and 1 in the procerus muscle: total dose 20U. Contraindications: Known hypersensitivity to any constituent. Infection at proposed injection site(s). Warnings/Precautions: Relevant anatomy and changes due to prior surgical procedures must be understood prior to administration. Serious adverse events including fatal outcomes have been reported in patients who had received off-label injections directly into salivary glands, the oro-lingual-pharyngeal region, oesophagus and stomach. Do not exceed recommended dosages and frequency of administration. Adrenaline and other anti-anaphylactic measures should be available. Reports of side effects related to spread of toxin distant from injection site, sometimes resulting in death. Therapeutic doses may cause exaggerated muscle weakness. Caution in patients with underlying neurological disorder and history of dysphagia and aspiration. Patients should seek medical help if swallowing, speech or respiratory disorders arise. Clinical fluctuations may occur during repeated use. Too frequent or excessive dosing can lead to antibody formation and treatment resistance. The previously sedentary patient should resume activities gradually. Caution in the presence of inflammation at injection site(s) or when excessive weakness/atrophy is present in target muscle. Caution when used for treatment of patients with peripheral motor neuropathic disease. Use with extreme caution and close supervision in patients with defective neuromuscular transmission (myasthenia gravis, Eaton Lambert Syndrome). Contains human serum albumin. Procedure related injury could occur. Pneumothorax associated with injection procedure has been reported. Interactions: No interaction studies have been performed. No interactions of clinical significance have been reported. Theoretically, the effect may be potentiated by aminoglycoside antibiotics or other drugs that interfere with neuromuscular transmission. Effects of administering different botulinum toxin stereotypes simultaneously, or within several months of each other, is unknown and may cause exacerbation of excessive neuromuscular weakness. Pregnancy: BoTox® should not be used during pregnancy unless clearly necessary. Lactation: Use during lactation cannot be recommended. Adverse Effects: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information on side effects. Based on controlled clinical trial data, the proportion of patients that would be expected to experience an adverse reaction after treatment is 23.5% (placebo: 19.2%). In general, reactions occur within the first few days following injection and are transient. Pain/

burning/stinging, oedema and/or bruising may be associated with the injection. Frequency By Indication: Defined as follows: Very Common (> 1/10); Common (>1/100 to <1/10); Uncommon (>1/1,000 to <1/100); Rare (>1/10,000 to <1/1,000); Very Rare (<1/10,000). Infections and infestations. Uncommon: Infection. Psychiatric disorders. Uncommon: Anxiety. Nervous system disorders. Common: Headache. Uncommon: Paresthesia, dizziness. Eye disorders. Common: Eyelid ptosis. Uncommon: Blepharitis, eye pain, visual disturbance. Gastrointestinal disorders. Uncommon: Nausea, oral dryness. Skin and subcutaneous tissue disorders. Common: Erythema, Uncommon: Skin tightness, oedema (face, eyelid, periorbital), photosensitivity reaction, pruritus, dry skin. Musculoskeletal and connective tissue disorders. Common: Localised muscle weakness, Uncommon: Muscle twitching. General disorders and administration site conditions. Common: Face pain, Uncommon: Flu syndrome, asthenia, fever. Adverse reactions possibly related to spread of toxin distant from injection site have been reported very rarely (exaggerated muscle weakness, dysphagia, constipation or aspiration pneumonia which can be fatal). Rare reports of adverse events involving the cardiovascular system, including arrhythmia and myocardial infarction, some with fatal outcomes. Rare reports of serious and/or immediate hypersensitivity (including anaphylaxis, serum sickness, urticaria, soft tissue oedema and dyspnoea) associated with BoTox use alone or in conjunction with other agents known to cause similar reaction. Very rare reports of angle closure glaucoma following treatment for blepharospasm. New onset or recurrent seizure occurred rarely in predisposed patients, however relationship to botulinum toxin has not been established. Needle related pain and/or anxiety may result in vasovagal response. NHS Price: 50 Units: £77.50, 100 Units: £138.20, 200 Units £276.40. Marketing Authorization Number: PL 00426/0074 Marketing Authorization Holder: Allergan Pharmaceuticals (Ireland) Ltd., Westport, Co. Mayo, Ireland. Legal Category: PoM. Date of preparation: December 2012.

Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information can be found at Adverse events should also be reported to Allergan Ltd. or 01628 494026. References: 1. De Almeida A et al. Dermatologic Surgery 2007;33:S37–43. 2. Carruthers A et al. J Clin Res, 2004;7:1–20. 3. Stotland MA et al. Plast Reconstr Surg, 2007;120:1386–1393. 4. Beer KR et al. J Drugs Dermatol, 2011;10(1) :39–44. 5. Lowe et al. Am Acad Dermatol, 2006;55:975-980. 6. Allergan data on file. BoTGL/001/SEP 2011 7. Allergan Data on File VIS/006/JUL2011. *Allergan botulinum toxin type A. Global figures. Launched in 1989 in the US. UK/0008/2013 Date of Preparation: January 2013

Cosmetic news march 2013  
Cosmetic news march 2013